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meee Ee PICUREAN 


A COMPLETE TREATISE OF 


ANALYTICAL AND PRACTICAL STUDIES 


ON THE 


PeeENARY ART 


INCLUDING 


Table and Wine Service, How to Prepare and Cook Dishes, an Index for Marketing, 
a Great Variety of Bills of Fare for Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners. 
Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, etc,, and a Selection of 
Interesting Bills of Fare of Delmonico’s, 

from 1862 to 1894, | 


MAKING A 


FRANCO-AMERICAN CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA 


By CHARLES RANHOFER, 


FORMER CHEF OF DELMONICO’S, 
AMonorary President of the ‘Société Culinaire Philanthropique” of New York. 


ILLUSTRATED WITH 800 PLATES, 


NEW YORK: 
R. RANHOFER, PUBLISHER, 
304 WEST ONE HUNDRED AND THIRD ST., 
1916. 





+ 


ot 


Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1803, 
By CHARLES RANHOFER, | 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.Q 

















* eas 


ESTABLISIIED 1827. 
BEAVER & SouTH Wé STS: i “4 
22 BROAD STREET Se 
MADISON SQUARE. 
Office Beaver & South W® Sts 
ltl’ j MER? 





PREFAOR. 


N PUBLISHING ne work I have endeavored to fill a much needed want. 


viz:—the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and 





+(e 
Pls 


This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and explained 


nutritious food. 


in a comprehensive manner so as to meet the wants of all. It suggests, also, many 
useful and important hints to those about entering the profession. 

The book is illustrated and contains instructions how to prepare, garnish and 
serve according to the traditional rules of our most able predecessors, and now 
followed by the principal chefs of France and the United States. 

In some instances, where it was deemed necessary to differ from the standard 
rules and methods in order to cater to the various tastes, changes have been made. 

The book is divided into twenty-four chapters: Table Service, Bills of Fare, 
Supplies, Elementary Methods, Soups, Stocks, Hot and Cold Sauces, Garnishings, 
Hot and Cold Side Dishes, Shell Fish, Crustaceans, Fish, Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, 
Pork, Poultry, Game, Miscellaneous Entrées, Cold Dishes, Vegetables, Cereals, Ho* 
and Cold Desserts, Pastry, Bakery, Confectionery, Ices, Fruit, Wines and Preserves. 

Not relying solely on my experience and knowledge, I have quoted from the 
most illustrious modern author, my much beloved friend and colleague, Urbain 
Dubois, ex-chef at the Court of Germany, and it gives me sincere pleasure to thank 
him for his generous assistance. 

The profession will acknowledge its indebtedness to the Messrs. Delmonico fo 
the interest shown by them in developing the gastronomic art in this country. 

Many will recall the business receptions given to distinguished guests under the 
supervision and direction of Delmonico. 

Mention may be made of the following dinners: to President U. 8. Grant, to 
President A. Johnson, to the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, to Gen. Prim, to Charles 
Dickens, to Sir Morton Peto, to Aug. Belmont, to Giraud Foster, to Gen. Cutting, 
to Luckmeyer, the so-called “Black Swan Dinner,” to Admiral Renaud, to Prof. 
Morse, to Bartholdi, to De Lesseps, to the Comte de Paris, also the ball given to 


the Russian Admiral and Fleet, and the Greek dinner. 


Vili PREFACE. 


I have entitled this work Tur Epicurean, and have justly dedicated it to the 
memory of Messrs. Delmonico, as a token of my gratitude and sincere esteem. 

Their world-wide reputation continues to be maintained by Mr. C. C. Delmonico. 

In conclusion I feel that my experience will be useful to those seeking infor- 

mation in the gastronomic art. 7 

Hoping the public will appreciate my efforts, ‘ } pat 4 


I remain respectfully, 


tain ghaleitce’ i 


CHARLES RANHOFER. 


ale Se i ee VEC, 


PAGE. 
B RE AKFASTS, ° e e e e ° e e e e ° 


° 
s 
e 
e 
° 
ear 
[o\) 


——- Bills of Fare, : : - ; . : . ° ° ° ° 13 
DiNNERS, American Service (Plate), : ; : ° ° ° ° ° ° ° . 1 
—— American Service, Bills of Fare, ; ‘ : . : ° ° ° ° 1 
—— American Service, Reception, ; . . ° ° ° ° ° ° . 6 
—— American Service, Tabie Service, : ry - F ° ° ° ° ° 5 
-—— American Service, Wines and Cordials (Plate), . : A ° . é 3 
— French Service (Plate), : : : - ‘ . ° ° ° ° ° 8 
— French Service, Necessary Material, F es . ° . ° ° ° 9 
—— French Service, To Set the Table, . : . . . ° ° ° ° 9 
—— Russian Service (Plate), ; A : ° ‘ ° ° ° ° ° ° 10 
LUNCHEONS, ~ |'e : ; : - ; ° 5 ° ° ° ° ° ° 13 
MopEL MARKET LIsT, . : ‘ : $ ° ° ° ° ° . : ° ° 21 
SupPers, Ambigu, : : . 5 : : ° . . ° ° ° A : 12 
—— Buffet, . ‘ : Ps “ 2 4 ° : ° ° ° ‘ 11 
SUPPLIES, . . . . ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° 14 


BILLS OF FARE, . : . . ey Fe : . ° ° ° . ° . ° 25 
Ambigu, ; ° : 4 ‘: S : ° ° ‘ - 2 ‘ 147 
Ambigu Picnic, . - : ; ° : ° ° ° ° : Ai aa) 
Breakfasts (Plate), . : ° ° . ° ° ° . . . 25 
Buffet— Large, . ° : ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° Paap 199) 
Buffet Suppers, . : ‘ ° ° ° . ° ° ° ° ° 149 
Dancing Party, { ; ° ° ° ° ° ° ° e ° waetow 
Delmonico’s, from 1862 to 1894, . 4 ° ° ° ° ° “ 4 1078 


Dinners, : : a ‘ : ° ° ° ° ° ° . 58 
Garden party, ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° e ° ° Se ae 
Invalids, . ; 5 ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° 42 
Lunches, re : “ ; ° ° e e e ° ° ° 5 43 
Restaurant Breakfast, : ; ° ° “os ° ° ° ° 164 
Restaurant Dinner, . ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° - 166 
Restaurant Lunch, . ° ° ° ° e e ° ° ° ° 165 
Restaurant Supper, : ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ek Gd, 
Suppers,  . , . ° ° ° ° ws ° ° ° ° 140 


Suppers, Sideboard, : ; : a ; ‘ ; : > : 442 
Suppers, Sideboard, English, i : ° ° . ° ° ° 148 
Suppers, Sideboard, Large, . ‘ ns : : ; : - : en bs 


eel esi aia. 


_ Suppers, Small, : : : : - : : 2 ; ‘é ; 151 


by 
DESIGNS FOR TABLES IN THE LAST CENTURY, ° ° ° ° ° ° 5 ° - 1070 





CONTENTS. 


TABLE SERVICE AND BILLS OF FARE, 


ELEMENTARY METHODS AND UTENSILS, . 


Soups, 


SAUCES, 


GARNISHINGS, 

CoLp SIDE DISHES, 

Hor SIDE DIsHEs, 

MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS, 


FIsH, 
BEEF, 
VEAL, 
MUTTON, 
LAMB, 


PoRK, 


POULTRY, . 


GAME, 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES, 
CoLD SERVICE, 


VEGETABLES, 


Eags, 


FARINACEOUS, 
Hor SWEET ENTREMETS, 


COLD SWEET ENTREMETS, 


PASTRY, 
BAKERY, 


ICES, 


CONFECTIONERY, 


WINES, 


Last CENTURY TABLES, 


DELMONICO’s MENUS FROM 1861 To 1894, . , . 


INDEX, 


NUMBERS. 


1- 182 
183- 384 
885- 635 
636- 770 
T71- 835 
836- 993 
994-1093 

1094-1312 
1313-1478 
1479-1584 
1585-1660 
1661-1770 
1771-1820 
1821-2045 
2046-2209 
2210-2408 
2409-2676 
2677-2849 
2850-2951 
2952-2989 
2990-3124 
3125-3294 
3225-3404 
3405-3424 
3424-3613 
3614-3704 
8705-8715 


969 

977 
1029 
1061 
1068 
1073 
1139 








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ab EPICUREAN. 





TABLE SERVICH, 


AMERICAN, FRENCH, RUSSIAN—FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER, 
SUPPER, COLLATION OR AMBIGU, 





DINNER SERVICE—AMERIOCAN STYLE—AND BILL OF FARE (Dinner Service 4& l’Américaine 
et le Menu), 


The success of a dinner depends upon good cooking, the manner in which it is served, and 
especially on entertaining congenial guests. The American service is copied more or less from the 
French and Russian, and remodeled to the tastes and customs of this country; as it varies some- 
what from all others, a few instructions may be found useful to those desirous of learning the 
difference existing between them. 


THE BILL OF FARE (MENU). 


Menus are made for breakfasts, luncheons and ‘suppers, but the most important one is for the 
dinner ; these menus are generally composed a few days in advance to enable the necessary pro- 
visions to be purchased, so that on the day of the dinner, there has been ample time to prepare 
everything necessary, consequently much confusion is avoided and the work better done. 

In carrying out the order the menu should be strictly followed, in fact, it must be an obliga- 
tory rule to do so. 

Making out the bills of fare is the duty of the head cook, who composes and writes them 
according to the latitude he enjoys and the resources he has at hand. 


BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNER. 


Should the menu be intended for a dinner including ladies, it must be composed of light, 
fancy dishes with a pretty dessert; if, on the contrary, it is intended for gentlemen alone, then it 
must be shorter and more substantial. If the dinner be given in honor of any distinguishec 
foreign guest, then a place must be allowed on the menu toinclude a dish or several dishes of his 
own nationality; avoid repeating the same names inthe same menu. Let the sauces be oi 
different colors, one following the other. 

Also vary the color of the meats as faras possible, from one course to the other. Offer on the 
menus all foods in their respective seasons, and let the early products be of the finest quality 
(consult a general market list to find the seasonable produce), and only use preserved articles 
when no others can be obtained. 

If the menus are hand written they must be very legible. 

Menus are indispensable for service 4 l’Américaine; there should be one for each guest, for as 


ae | THE EPICUREAN. 


no dish served from the kitchen appears on the table, every one must be informed beforehand of 
what the dinner is composed, and those dishes that are to follow each other. 

Menus must be both simple and elegant, and of a size to allow them to be easily placed in the 
pocket without folding, as it is the general desire to keep the bill of fare of a dinner at which one 
has assisted. 

A few important observations necessary to bills of fare and their classification are here given: 

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. 

Oysters appear on the menu the same as in the Russian service; on French bills of fare they 
do not mention them. Suppress oysters in every month not containing the letter R, such as: 
May, June, July and August, and serve Little Néck clams instead. 


SOUPS. 


Soups are served after the oysters. One clear and one , thick soup should be selected but if 

only one is needed, give the preference to the clear soup. 
HORS-D’(EUVRE, SIDE OR LIGHT DISHES. 

Hot hors-d’couvre are, generally, timbales, croustades, cromesquis, palmettes, mousselines, 
bouchées, cannelons, cassolettes, rissoles, etc. With the same course serve cold side dishes, such 
as olives, radishes, canapés, caviare, pickled tunny, anchovies, etc. 

In the French service, the fish and the solid joints come under the head of relevés or removes. 
In the American and English service, first comes the fish, then the removes. 


FISH. 


If the fish be boiled or braized, add potatoes to the menu; if broiled or sautéd, some cucumber 
salad; and, if fried, serve plain or with a light sauce. 


REMOVES OR RELEVES. 

The relevés or solid joints are composed of saddles, either of veal, mutton, lamb, venison and 
antelope, or else beef tenderloins or middle short loins. _ Turkey, goose, capon, pullets, ducks, etc., 
may be served, accompanied by one or two vegetables. 

ENTREES. 

Place on the bill of fare first the heaviest entrée, and conclude with the lightest; they must 
be previously cut up so as to avoid carving. No fish figures in the American service as an entrée, 
but terrapin or crabs may be allowed; also lobsters, shrimps, frogs, croquettes, etc. 

Each entrée should be accompanied by a vegetable, served separately, except when it is one of 
those described above, such as terrapin, ete. 

PUNCH OR SHERBETS. 

A punch or sherbet is always served after the entrées and before the roast; do not make an 

extra heading on the menu for these, only placing them ona line by themselves, for instance: 


Roman punch or American sherbet. 
ROASTS. 


Roasts are served after the sherbet; a game roast is usually preferred, but poultry, either 
truffied or not, may be substituted: such as turkey, capon, pullet, duck, guinea-fowl, squabs, etc. ; 
also roasted butcher’s meat; but game is usually considered to be more choice. 

COLD DISHES. 

Cold dishes come after the roast, and before the hot dessert; they are served with green salads; 
terrines of foies-gras and boned turkey are also served as a second roast. (In the French service 
these cold dishes are classified as the last entrée.) 


HOT SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. 
These appear after the roast; they are composed of puddings, crusts, fried creams, fritters, 
pancakes, borders, omelets, and soufflées, and form a separate course by themselves. 
COLD SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. 
The cold sweet entremets come after the hot and are composed of jellies, bavarois, creams, 
blane-manges, macédoines, charlottes and large cakes, and form another course. 
DESSERT. 
After the cold entremets come the dessert, composed of cheese, fresh fruits, preserved fruits, 
cakes, Jams, dried fruits, candied fruits, bonbons, mottoes, papillotes, victorias, pyramids, frozen 
puddings, plombiéres, ices, ice cream and small fancy cakes, then the coffee and cordials. 


TABLE SERVICE. 3 


¢) ay 
i 


Mii 


(| 















SERVICE OF WINES AND CORDIALS (Service des Vins et Liqueurs), 


The steward must inform and specify to the butler the wine to be served at each separate 
course. However important the dinner may be, still decanters of ordinary red and white wine 
must be placed on the table. The selection of the finer wines is the host’s duty, he making his 
choice when ordering the bill of fare. 

The steward’s duty is to see that the wines are served at a proper temperature. 

All white wines must be served cold. 

Sherry and Xeres cool. 

Bordeaux between 55 and 60 degrees, Fahrenheit, according to its ae 

- Burgundy between 50 and 55 degrees. 

Champagnes, cold or iced, or in sherbets. 

Dessert wines cool. 

For choosing wines consult the table on wines of Delmonico’s cellar. (No. 3709.) 

Russian Sideboards.—Absinthe, Vermuth Bitters, Kiimmel, Mineral Waters, including Apol- 
linaris, Clysmic, St. Galmier and Vichy. 

FIRST SERVICE. 

With Oysters.—Sauterne, Barsac, Graves, Mont Rachet, Chablis. 

After the Soup.—Madeira, Sherry or Xeres. 

With Fish.—(Rhine wines) Johannisberger, Marcobrunner, Hochheimer, Laubenheimer, Lieb- 
fraumilch, Steinberger. (Moselle) Brauneberger, Zeltinger, Berncasteler. 

With Removes.—Cote St. Jacques, Moulin-a-vent, Macon, Clos de Vougedt, Beaune. 

With Entrées.—St. Emilion, Médoc du Bordelais, St. Julien. Dry champagnes for certain 
countries. 

Iced Punches and Sherbets, Rum, Madeira. 

SECOND SERVICE. 

With Roasts.—(Burgundies) Pommard, Nuits, Corton, Chambertin, Romanée Conti. 

Cold Roasts.—Vin de Paille, Steinberger. 

With Hot Desserts.—(Bordeaux) Chateau Margaux, Léoville, Laffitte, Chateau Larose, Pontet- 
Canet, St. Pierre, Cotes de Rhone, Hermitage and Céte-Rotie. (Red Champagne) Bouzy, Verzenay, 
Porto Premiére. 

THIRD SERVICE. 

With Dessert.—(Burgundy) Volnay, Mousseux. (Champagnes) Delmonico, Roederer, Rosé 
Mousseux, Pommery, Cliquot, Perrier-Jouét, Moét, Mumm. 

Wine Liquors.—Muscatel, Malaga, Alicante, Malvoisie of Madeira, Lacryma Christi, red and 
white Cape, Tokay, Constance, Schiraz. 

Cordials.—Curacgoa, Kirsch, Cognac, Chartreuse, he tracchino, Prunelle, Anisette, Bénédic- 
tine. 

Beers. —Bass’ Ales, Porter, Tivoli, Milwaukee. 


the 


hours and twenty minutes and if at eight minute intervals, in one hour and fifty-two 1 
same as an eight course dinner of ten minute intervals will take one hour aed twee 
at eight minute intervals it will take one hour and four minutes. 


OMe CBW 


THE EPICUREAN. 










WINES AND LIQUORS USUALLY CALLED FOR (Vins et Liqueurs Giénéralement Servish — 
A DINNER OF AMERICANS. . 
RECEPTION-ROOM. 


Sherry, Bitters, | Cocktails. 
DINNER WINES. 
Haut Sauterne, Amontillado, Sherry, - Barsac, | Ponte. Cane 
Perrier-Jouet Brut, Liquors. 


A DINNER OF FRENCHMEN. 
RECEPTION-ROOM. 
Sherry and Bitters, Vermuth, Pete os 
; DINNER WINES. 
Graves, Xeres,  Lafaurie, St. Pierre, - Yellow cag 
3 Beaujolais, Liquors. 
A DINNER OF GERMANS. ce 
No wines or mineral-waters in the reception-room. 
_ DINNER WINES. (ae RE Fate 
Niersteiner, Shere, Hochheimer, St. Estéphe, © 
Pommery Sec. Beaune, Liquors. 


anes service, like the Russian, must be served quickly and hot. As easily and 
following card, a dinner of ten minute intervals can be served with fourteen course 


Figure 1—36 covers. Figure 2—24 covers, Figure 3—16 covers. Figure 4—1 
2hours 10. 10 minutes. 2hours. — 10 minutes. — 
3 stain gee eae my e oe i Roue! 44, 8 minutes. ihour 36, 8 minutes. — 
| een Oysters. Oysters. 
2 Soup: 2 Soups. 2 Soups. 2 Soups. 
S. D. i and cold. S. D. hot and cold. S. D. hot and cold. S. D. hot and. 
2 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. — 1 Fish, potatoe 
1 Remove, vegetables. | 1 Remove, vegetables. | 1 Remove, vegetables. | 1 Remove, veget 
1 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. | 1 Entrée, ve, 
1 Entrée, vegetables. | 1 Entrée, vegetables. 4 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, ves 
1 Entrée, WORELADIOBAG he ec annonce © PETRY ee eee a ov ve ees ee ees) (olen ey een 
1 Punch. 1 Punch. 1 Punch. 1 Punch. 
1 or 2 Roasts. 1 Roast. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Roast, salad, ; 
1 or 2 Colds, salad. 1 Cold salad.2 4.0 Se eee ae ove ee tl Co . 
1 Hot sweet dessert. 1 Hot sweet dessert. 1 Hot ouee dessert. 1 Hot dessert. , 
1 or 2 Cold sweet des’rts| 2 Cold sweet desserts. | 2 Cold sweet desserts. Spee 
fi or 2 Ices. f Ices. 2 Ices. | (1 Tee. 
Dessert. Dessert. , eee nee ? 


Figure 5—10 covers. Figure 6—8 covers. Figure 7—6 covers. Figure 8—4 covers. 
10 minutes. 1 hour 42. |16 minutes. 1 hour 30./16 minutes. 1 hour 20.|10 minutes. 1 hour 10. 
8 minutes. i hour 20. | 8 minutes. 1 hour 12. | 8 minutes. 1 hour 10. | 8minutes. — 56. 








~" Oysters. fe Oysters. ee Oysters. Oysters. 
oups. oups, oup. 1 : 
S$. D. hot and cold. ase Ses 5 UN Cee wpe 


1 Fish, potatoes. | 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. i 
1 Remove, veg’bles. Tr 


1 Entrée, veg’bles. | 1 Entrée, veg’bles. | 1 Entrée, veg bles. | 1 Entrée, veg’bles. 


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1 Panel eseeeeeeee 1 Ranch. e@eeeeeevee t Ponds. eeeoceeee i Punch.) 
1 Roast, salad, i Roast, salad. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Roast, ‘salad, 


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Se eesseeseseccece «66S a olan Naan 
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{Dessert ( Dessert. ‘Dosis ioe aaah 


TABLE SERVICE. 5 


THE DINNER TABLE, RECEPTION TABLE SERVICE AND WINES. (Le Couvert, Réception, 
Service de Table et les Vins.) 


TABLE SERVICE FOR TWENTY-FOUR PERSONS. 


An oblong shaped table is preferable for a large dinner party, the feet being less incommo- 
dious; it must at least be six or seven feet wide and twenty-two feet long, with rounded ends. This 
shaped table is most generally used, although some prefer round, or horse-shoe ones, or an oblong 
with square ends, and many other fanciful shapes, depending entirely on the size of the room and 
the taste of the host.. 

Tables can be lengthened according to the number of seats desired; the space allowed for 
each guest is, for a square table with square ends, two feet apart between each plate; when the 
ends are curved, the space for the corners must be twenty-two inches apart, and if entirely round, 
twenty inches. - 

Cover a table twenty-two by seven with a felt cover made for the purpose, then over this lay a 
tablecloth twenty-four feet long and eight or nine feet wide, being careful that it is exceedingly 
white and smooth, having no creases whatever. 

Fold a well starched, large napkin, pinch it triangularly, and place it in the center of the 
table; have twenty-four smaller napkins also well starched, folded and pinched, and place these at 
the edge of the table and on each one set a plate with another napkin on top, folded either shaped 
as a boat, a tulip, or any other pretty design, or else the napkin may be simply folded square. 

The bread is placed either under the folds or in the center of the napkin, according to the 
manner in which it is displayed, or on a small plate to the left of the cover. Another way is to 
place the bread in front of the napkin. 

On the left of each plate, lay a table fork and also a fish fork. 

On the right set a table knife, a silver fish knife, a soup spoon, also a small fork for oysters or 
Little Neck clams 

In front, but slightly toward the right of each plate, set a small individual salt-cellar. The 
double silver pepper castors containing black and red pepper are distributed two on each side, and 
two at each end of the table, with eight single ones between the double ones. 

Glasses are placed in a semi-circle either in front of the plate or else on the right; arrange 
these according to the courses to be served. First, water glass; second, white wine; third, sherry; 
fourth, Rhine wine; fifth, champagne; and sixth, Bordeaux. 

Before serving the entrées remove the white wine, Sherry and Rhine wine glasses and 
replace them by fine Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses. Glasses intended for dessert wines and 
liquors, are only put on the table with the dessert. 


THE CENTER LINE OF THE TABLE, 


In the center of the table have a large piece of silverware decorated with plants, ferns and 
natural flowers, or else a high vase or simply a basket of flowers. These baskets or other decora- 
tions may be filled with one, or several kinds of variegated flowers, mingling red and white, scarlet 
and lilac, or Parma violets, or tulips and orchids, these produce a brilliant effect. (The entire 
house, staircases, halls, etc., may also be decorated with plants, palms, lemon and orange trees, 
or rubber plants. Mantels and mirrors to be also wreathed with flowers, or else scattered about in 
clusters, and have hanging baskets tastefully arranged in prominent corners, so as to add to the 
general beautiful effect.) 

On each side of the center piece and on the center line have two prettily arranged baskets con- 
taining seasonable or hot-house fruits; on each side of these, set an ornamental piece, either made 
of nougat, gum-paste or sugar-candy, or should these high pieces not be desirable, others may be 
substituted either of bronze, or else stands covered with flowers, etc. 

On each end of these pieces set either candelabras or lamps, and beyond these high stands of 
graduated tiers filled with bonbons, cornucopias, Victorias, bonbon boxes, etc., all of them form- 
ing the center line of the table. Around this line, and at about twenty to twenty-four inches from 
the edge, draw a line the same shape as the table, and on this place decanter stands for decan- 
tered wine; two for sherry, four for white wine, and four for red Bordeaux, making ten in all, and 
the same quantity of decanter stands for decanters containing water, or instead of ten, twenty- 
four smaller ones may be substituted, one for each person. 

Place at intervening spaces, two compote dishes with stewed fruits, four stands for small 
fancy cakes, two compote dishes for candied or dried fruits, nuts, etc., or else fresh strawberries, 
raspberries or mulberries, if in season, a saucerful for each person, and finish by interlacing 
through these dishes as well as the decanters, strings of smilax or any other pretty creeping vine, 

































6 THE EPICUREAN. 


following around about twenty-four inches from the edge of, the table; set into this: verdure at 
various parts, clusters of natural flowers. A table arranged accor ding to this description ae 
found to have a most charming and pleasing effect. permet: <a 
The diagram of the table should be obtained, and have the names of each guest tasteful 
written on fancy cards; lay one of these on the right hand glass of each person, in a promi 
nent manner so that it can be read from a distance which will greatly facilitate the seating of 
guests. Procure bouquets of flowers for the ladies, set in fancy vases, tying them beste mn 
and having a pin attached to enable them to fasten them on to their dresses; gentlemen's bu to 
hole bouquets should also be placed in vases. All these flowers must be in front, but sli 
h person. +. a 
altar yi ene ae should be placed on the left side, either in silver stands (Fig. 1 
or set beside the plate. ee aa fet 
The host should always be seated so as to face the door leading into the dining-room. T 
hostess on the other end of the table directly opposite, their respective seats being at the top au 
bottom of the table. The seat of honor for a lady is on the right hand of the host, and nat ra. 
on the right hand of the hostess for a gentleman. The left hand may also be utilized as seats” 
honor but of minor importance. A dining-room: should be kept at a comfortable temperatu 
The sideboard should be placed at one side of the table, and on this or in the drawers and co 
partments everything must be arranged in thorough order so as to have them handy, thus avol 
all confusion during dinner. j a 
The entire dessert service including wines to be arranged tastefully on the sideboard 
ing a very pretty effect to the room. A service table must either be in the dining-room > 
a screen or in a pantry close by; it must contain one or several carving boards, sundry kni 
forks, ladles, chafing dishes, etc. The service must be rapid and the dishes served hoi 
haying anything cooked in advance except the large pieces. Entrées and all smaller dishes 
be prepared according to their successive order, as the dinner progresses, at an interval of 
or three courses, which means about ten or twenty minutes apart. A good steward can al 
manage to protract the dinner in case the cook is behind time, but it is his duty to inform tho: 
the kitchen at least ten minutes beforehand so as to prevent any possible delay; he must also 1 
a duplicate bill of fare from the kitchen identical with the one on the table, and classified ace 
ing to the service, so as to be able to consult it in order to know exactly which dish follows the 
When the dinner is ready, the steward must place his help in their respective 
tions, and give them final instructions regarding their duties; they should be attired in c¢ 
suits, white ties and gloves, and wear no jewelry whatever. ‘In order to serve a ceremonial di 
for twenty-four persons, it will require: a steward, a butler, a carver and six waiters; care 
intrusting the care of the wines to the most intelligent, and the carving to the most expert; 
remaining six being for the special table service, they must remain in their respective places to 
at the call of the guests should their services be required. _ | 


RECEPTION. 


The gentlemen are to be received by a waiter, who before introducing them into the recep 
room, takes their overeoats, canes, hats, umbrellas, etc., leaving these articles in a place § 
aside for this purpose, near the reception room, then hands each gentleman an envelope add 
to himself in which there will be found a card bearing the name of the lady he is to escort. to 
dining-room, and who is to be seated on his right hand during dinner. : ‘| aa 

Two other waiters attired in full dress, introduce the gentlemen into the reception room a 
joining the dining-room, the doors to the latter being closed; in the reception room there shou 
be a small Russian buffet, or simply serve some'sherry, Xeres, bitters, vermuth and absinthe, 
be handed round on trays to each guest as he arrives. - ; ; ar. Ce a 

{t is absolutely necessary to have a lady’s maid-to receive the ladies, lay aside.their outer 
ments, or any article they may desire to confide to her care; these must be arranged in such 
manner as to be easily returned to their respective owners. . tf 


The maid must remain and wait, in order to be continually at the disposal of the lady guests. ei 


When all the invited guests have arrived and been duly introduced, the dinner hour having 


struck, the steward opens the dining-room doors, bows to the host, this being the signal to an- ‘ 
nounce that dinner is served. a 
The hostess enters the dining-room first, on the arm of the gentleman in whose honor the din- a % 
ner is given, followed by the other guests, the host being last. Each one sits down at the seats = 
tnaAtiantas Fi ina) ‘ 
acicated on the cards, and when all are comfortably seated the dinner begins. | - 


,. 
1m, 


oe 
Sa 


TABLE SERVICE. <3 


The service must be performed silently, a look alone from the steward sufficing for each: man 
to do his duty. Every article handed round must be on a silver salver. 


THE SERVICE. 


Oysters.—Little Neck clams are passed around, beginning on one side by the lady on the right 
and the other side by the gentleman on the Bone these being the most distinguished guests ; 
change this method at each course, those being served last before, being the first now. 

The butler will pour out the Chablis, stating the name of each wine he serves. 

Soup.—There are usually two soups to select from. While serving green turtle offer at the 
same time lemon cut in quarters. 

Sherry should be served with this course. 

Side Dishes.—Pass hot hors-d’ceuvre ; these are served on warm plates. Serve the cold 
hors d’ceuvre at the same time, and should the ees prefer the latter, remove the hot plate at 
once and substitute a cold one far it. 

Sherry or Xeres should accompany this course. 

Fish.—If there be two kinds of fish, offer the selection, and pass round the one preferred; should 
it be boiled or braized fish, have potatoes served at the same time; if broiled or sautéd thinly sliced 
seasoned fresh cucumbers must accompany it, and if fried fish such as whitebait, serve with thin 
slices of buttered brown bread and quarters of lemon. 

Serve Rhine wine or white Bordeaux. 

Removes or Solid Joints.—The removes may be placed on the table before being taken off for 
carving; if it be a saddle of venison, it should be cooked rare, passing currant jelly at the same 
time. A saddle of mutton must also be rare and very hot; it can be cut lengthwise at an angle in 
thin slices or across, although the first way is preferable; serve both these on very hot plates, and 
have one or two vegetables accompanying them. 

Serve champagne. 

Entrées.—The entrées must be served one after the other without placing them on the table 
beforehand; they must be served on hot plates with one vegetable for each entrée, to be either 
passed round separately or else carefully laid on the same plate, unless it is desired that they be 
dressed; in this case dress and present to each guest. Serve Bordeaux at the first entrée, and an 
extra quality of wine at the last; continue serving champagne to those who prefer to drink it until 
the roast. . : 
-INTERVAL, —gECOND ‘SERVICE. 


Iced Punch or Sherbet. Sonoala: there. be no ladies present; cigarettes can be handed round at 
the same time. Remove the two white wine and ‘sherry glasses, and replacé them by those used for 
Burgundy, also remove the cold side dishes. Ten to fifteen minutes must now be allowed between 
the courses. 

Roasts.—The roast may be displayed on the table before carving, this being frequently 
requested by epicures; should there be several roasts, carve them all at the same time and pass 
them round according to desire, adding a little watercress for poultry, and should there be can- 
vas-back duck, let currant jelly and fried hominy be served with also a mayonnaise of celery. 

Serve the Burgundy from bottles laid flat in baskets (Fig. 767) holding the basket in the right 
hand and a white napkin in the left. 

Cold.—Serve the cold dishes afterthe roast, these to be either goose livers (foies-gras) with 
truffles or boned turkey. The foies-gras must have a spoon to remove it with, and the boned 
turkey be cut into thin slices, and offer both to the guest at the same time, accompanied by green 
salads. 

Serve Johannisberg or Vin de Paille. 

Now remove everything from the table with the exception of the Sessoxts and to avoid using a 
brush lift up the extra napkins in front of each person, folding them in two so that the table is 
neat and clean without being obliged to use a brush or scraper. Lay the dessert plates on the 
table, and continue the service for the hot dessert. 

Hot Sweet Entremets.—Make a distinct service for the hot entremets, then serve the cheese. 

Serve a fine Laffitte Bordeaux. 

Cold Sweet Entremets.—Make another service for the cold entremets and ices. 

Dessert.—Instead of serving the cheese after the hot entremets it may be done now, which is 
in fact its proper place; pass around the fresh fruits, stewed, candied and dried fruits, bonbon 
cases, bonbons, mottoes, ices, strawberries and raspberries with cream when in season, passing 


_ eakes around at the same time. 


8 THE EPICUREAN. 


Serve Madeira wine, Muscatel and Frontignan, also plates of salted almonds. 


CONCLUSION OF THE DINNER. 


It is now time for the hostess to bow, push back her chair and prepare to rise, this being a 
signal for the ladies to retire; after they have returned to the drawing-room, coffee is passed 
round on a salver containing spoons, hot water, sugar and cream. A few moments later another 
waiter comes forward with an empty tray to remove the cups the ladies hand him. 

The gentlemen partake of their coffee in the dining-room; at the same time serve them Kirsch, 
brandy, chartreuse, cigars and cigarettes. The doors are closed and the ladies and waiters have re- 
tired so as to allow the gentlemen more freedom to talk among themselves, still it will be necessary 
to enter the drawing-room and dining-room occasionally in order to see whether anything be 
needed so as to avoid being called as mnch as possible. | 

After half an hour or so, the gentlemen will rejoin the ladies in the drawing-room and then 
tea is served. The tea service is accomplished by passing around on trays, tea, sugar, hot water, 
cream, cups, spoons and slices of lemon. A few moments later another waiter removes the empty 
cups on a tray. 

After the tea the service is considered to be ended. 






































ope AS Sage aera, : es eee a Va i SS 


is 





FRENCH SERVICE (Service & la Frangaise), 


There are two different services in use: The French and the Russian. 

Although recognizing the priority of both of these services, it will be well to mention the dif- 
ference existing between them and the English and the American service; first, they differ in the 
classification of the bills of fare and certain changes in the table service, these alone are sufficient 
to be interesting. 

The old style of French service threatens to disappear entirely and is rarely used, except on 
very rare occasions. 

The three services placed on the table, one after the other, had certainly the advantage of 
displaying the culinary labor as well as the most variegated and rare products by exhibiting them 
in all their profuseness. But the great inconvenience is the preparation of dishes beforehand in 
the kitchen in order to have each service ready at once and to keep them hot in heaters before 
beginning to serve the dinner. 

The dishes for the first course are placed on the table in chafing dishes provided with covers, 
to be lifted off when the guests are seated, and left on the table till ready to be carved. 

Of course this inconvenience is somewhat remedied by keeping the heaters and chafing dishes 
at a given heat, and there must be placed near the table, either behind a screen in the dining- 
room or else in an adjoining pantry, a bain-marie with all the necessary sauces required for the 


TABLE SERVICE. 9 


dinner, and as soon as the meats are carved, each one is to be covered with its respective sauce 
before being handed around. 

But notwithstanding all possible care and attention the entrées are apt to lose much of their 
finer qualities by the very act of being cooked and dressed beforehand, then kept hot in these 
heaters or chafing dishes. 

Still this could scarcely have been the sole cause for abandoning the old system, for it con- 
tinued in usage for several centuries. We are, however, obliged to recognize that first-class 
families have ceased to make a display of the great luxuriousness indulged in, in the past; to-day 
they are more restrained, the help less numerous and the chief cook frequently alone with one 
kitchen assistant, having no longer an extra man for pastry, confectionery and ices. The chef 
himself must see to the preparation of the pastry, ices and desserts. There is now scarcely to be 
found any house where for twelve persons they employ a chef, an assistant and a pastry cook and 
the remainder of the help corresponding to this great amount of luxury. 

The bills of fare are simpler; instead of dressing and arranging the service on the table itself, 
many houses have a mixed service; this is made by presenting the dishes on the table, then 
removing them to be carved. 

The general desire of the day is to dine quicker; taste changes with the fashion. The old 
French service is fast disappearing, and as it becomes more simple it gradually evolves intoa 
mixed Russian and French service. 


FRENCH SERVICE FOR 24 PERSONS (Service & la Francaise pour 24 Couverts), 


The first service is composed of hors-d’ceuvre (side dishes), two soups, two removes, four hot 
entrées, or two cold and two hot entrées. 

Remove the cold hors-d’ceuvre; serve the punch or sherbet. 

The second service is composed of two roasts to take the place of the removes; four entremets, 
two being of vegetables, one hot sweet entremets and one cold; these to replace the entrées; two 
entremets cakes to take the place of the cold entrées. 

Prepare the table for the dessert. 

The third service, or dessert, is composed of two shelved stands filled with bonbons, victorias, 
bonbon boxes, cossacks, two low stands or drums containing small fancy cakes, two basketfuls of 
fresh fruits, two assorted compotes, one orange jelly, one Bar-le-Duc jelly and two cheeses; two 
fancy pieces of nougat or candied sugar to replace the entremets cakes. 

The wines should be selected and served as indicated in another chapter, according to the taste 
and desire of the host. 


FRENOH SERVICE, DINNER FOR 24 PERSONS—TO SET THE TABLE (Service & la Frangaise, 
Diner de 24 Couverts—Le Couvert), 


The table must be sixteen to eighteen feet long and six to seven feet wide, with rounded cor- 
ners, covered with a table-cloth and having exactly in the center a high stand or epergne, or piece 
of silverware or bronze, filled with flowers. Continue the middle line with candelabras or 
lamps; leave a place for the chafing dishes and between these arrange the cold hors-d’uvre. 
Set the plates, the glasses to form a semicircle in front; the spoons and knives on the right and the 
forks on the left. 

Commence serving the most honored guest on each right side, and begin each separate service 
at the person served the last. 

All the dishes intended for the table should be dressed tastefully and the edges decorated with 
open-worked noodle borders; the meats laid symmetrically, the borders to be neither too high nor 
too much spread so that the dish covers can fit on easily; light bread borders can also be used. 

Decorate the meats with trimmed hatelets just before placing them on the table. 


NECESSARY MATERIAL FOR 24 PERSONS (Matériel Nécessaire pour 24 Couverts), 


Let the china, glassware, silver, cutlery and linen be as much alike as possible, have the 
glasses all plain or cut of the same pattern and shape; the china either all white, colored or gilt; 
the linen plain or damasked with large or small designs. 

The plates must be changed at each service as well as the knives and forks, they must be 


10 THE EPICUREAN. 


washed immediately and used again for the following services, otherwise there will be as many 
knives and forks needed as plates, ponsed ueny far more material. 


24 soup plates. 24 dessert knives and. forks. 
24 side-dish plates. 72 large forks. 
72 dinner plates. 72 steel knives. 
48 dessert plates. 24 silver or gilt knives. 
24 soupspoons. 24 side-dish knives and forks. 
24 coffee after-dinner cups. 24 coffeespoons 
Small salt cellars and pepper casters, one for each person. 
12 radish dishes for 24 persons. 2 shelved stands. 
A glass or silver knife rester for each person. 2 silver baskets for fruits. 
8 silver toothpick holders. 2 drums for fancy cakes. 
24 wine decanters and water bottles. 2 dishes for jellies. 
2 soup tureens. | 2 dishes for cheese. 
2 chafing dishes and covers for removes. | 4 compote stands. 
- 4 chafing dishes and covers for entrées. - . 4 dishes and covers for vegetables. 
2 chafing dishes and covers for roasts. 2 dishes for cold entrées. 
24 water glasses. 24 sherry glasses. 
24 Chablis glasses. 24 Burgundy glasses. 
24 Bordeaux glasses. 24 liquor glasses. 
24 Frontignan glasses. 24 Champagne flutes or goblets. 
24 fine Bordeaux glasses. 24 punch or sherbet glasses. 


Fine Baccarat glass is the handsomest; keep in reserve glasses of all kinds in case of an 


accident. 
The oil and vinegar caster, as well as the mustard pot, are to be passed around according to 


necessity. 









































RUSSIAN SERVICE (Service & la Russe), 


TAB DAN we have of eating everything very hot and very fast comes to us from the “‘ Russian 
service;’ it differs from the French service in the very fact that nothing hot appears on the table 
everything is cut up as needed, either in the kitchen or-pantry. The carving should be performed 


TABLE SERVICE. Lt 


very neatly, having all the pieces of even size and placed.at once symmetrically either in a circle or 
straight row on dishes for ten or less persons, then. passed round to the guests, who help them- 
selves or are helped, according to their wish. 

As for the solid joints, removes or roasts, they can be served precisely the same, or else laid on 
very hot plates and handed directly to each guest. There must be a sufficiency of every kind of 
entrée to serve for every person present. Should there be several and a variety of roasts and only 
one service required, then carve a third part of each one, or more of one than the other if certain 
dishes seem to be preferred. If there be several removes the same course can be pursued. As 
soon as one course is being passed around, the following one should be brought from the kitchen 
so that the dinner can be served uninterruptedly and eaten while hot and palatable. 

The cold meat pieces may be dressed and arranged on the table the same as the candelabras, 
silverware, bronze vases and flower baskets, all of these to be in the center line of the table, leay- 
ing eighteen inches of space uncovered between the end of the line and the edge of the table; 
between this center line and the edge draw a round or oval or any other desirable shape at eigh- 
teen inches above the edge. If there be two cold meat pieces lay them:on the sides of the table 
and in the center of the line, and if four, then two at the sides and two at the ends in the center, 
if eight then have four at the corners between the sides and ends on the eighteen-inch line above 
the edge; finish to decorate this line with cold sweet dishes, baskets of fresh fruits, shelved stands 
filled with bonbons, cossacks, Victorias, drums containing small fancy cakes,-compoted dried 
fruits, etc., all these ornaments give the table a charming effect and should be arranged 
before the guests enter the dining-room. 

The straight line alone and the cold meat pieces can be also arranged, finishing at eighteen 
inches from the edge with garlands of leaves and flowers instead of the dessert, and when ready to 
serve the cold pieces, take them off and replace them by the taller desserts, shelved stands and 
drums, ranging the others here and there, half on either side of the table between the middle line 
and the flowers. 

Hot sweet entremets are always served as extras or “flying dishes,” after the vegetables. 

The service is far less sumptuous and elegant than the French one, yet it pleases many and 
is very fashionable at the present time. The remainder of the service is exactly like the French. 

The old-fashioned bills of fare for the Russian service were classed differently to those of 
to-day; further on they will be found in great variety, appertaining to different epochs and a 
selection can be made of those most suitable; the service remains SS aes the same, the only 
change being in the bill of fare. 

It is the custom in Russia to serve the iced punches or sherbets ae the fish, but it is cer- 
tainly preferable to wait until the entrées are removed. 


SUPPER. (Le Souper.) 
‘*To sleep easily one must sup lightly.” 


SUPPER BUFFET. 


Supper buffets are dressed on tables twelve to twenty feet long by four to five feet wide ; larger 
or smaller according to the number of guests and the richness of the bill of fare. Be careful that 
every article on the table shows to the best advantage, arranging each dish in a tasteful manner, 
yet observing certain indispensable rules so to facilitate the service that the buffet can be replen 
ished and the dishes removed without the slightest confusion. The warm dishes should be served 
continuously without any delay and only a few at the time. Place a large piece of silverware in the 
center of the table to contain fruits, following the middle line on the length, then two large bas- 
kets of flowers and two pieces either of nougat or sugar, both ornamented with candied fruits, 
then two large cold-meat pieces and two stands filled with bonbon boxes, mottoes, victorias and 
bonbons, afterward two candelabras, and two entremets cakesto finish. In the front place a 
decorated salmon, behind on the other side of the center line stand the tenderloin of beef, and on 
each side of the fish and tenderloin, two medium-sized meat pieces, then the drums or high stands 
filled with small cakes. After this the small cold entrées, such as sandwiches and small rolls filled 
with rillettes; at each end of the table arrange the chicken and lobster salads. On one end of the 
table have. plenty of material handy (according to the importance of the bill of fare), for hot 
service; have plates, soup tureens and chafing-dishes; behind, near the tenderloin of beef, put the 
ices, jellies and charlottes. 

These suppers are usually served after the first part of the dancing order is finished betweem 


12 THE EPICUREAN. 


eleven o’clook and one in the morning. Frequently small tables are used when there is sufficient 
room; these are generally reserved for the ladies. 


HOT DISHES. 


First part.—The soup is either consommé in cups, or barley cream, or rice and almond milk. 
These must be perfectly clear in order to serve them in cups the same as the consommé. 

Oysters prepared in different styles: Fricasseed, Hollandaise, Béchamel, poulette, Viennese, 
crawfish sauce, etc.; oysters fried or stuffed, small bouchées filled with salpicon, chicken or 
game croquettes, sweetbreads, lobster, etc., Timbales and mousselines; terrapin, Maryland or 
Newburg for white, Baltimore and Maryland Club for brown; red-head ducks and canvas-back, also 
quails and squabs and sometimes deviled crabs, stuffed lobsters, scallops 4 la Brestoise or frog 
croquettes. 

COLD DISHES. 


Second part.—Decorate the table with hors-d’cuvre composed of radishes, olives, celery, 
anchovy toasts etc. . 

Large pieces such as a richly decorated salmon, a tenderloin of beef garnished with vege- 
tables, boned turkey and capon, ham stuffed with pistachio nuts and truffles, a suckling pig, a 
boar’s head, large dishes of turkey and capon, truffled or otherwise. Voliéres of peacock, young 
swans, pheasants and guinea fowls ornamented with their natural feathers, large terrines of Stras- 
burg foies-gras, woodcock, snipe, reedbirds, quails, leverets, veal kernels and game ‘‘ pains,” en 
damier; bastions of roast game on crofitons and garnished with fresh water-cress, pyramids of 
lobsters and crawfish and truffles. 

There are a great variety of elegant entrées, and among others the following ones may he 
selected: 

Aspics of all kinds, red beef tongue, foies-gras, fillets of chickens, oysters, ete.; white and 
brown chaufroids of partridge and chicken, also ravigote ducks, galantines of chicken, cream of 
pigeons, squabs and quails covered with chaufroid and decorated with black truffles and very green 
pistachio nuts; smoked and unsmoked tongue well glazed and dressed pyramid form; lamb chops 
au vert pré, ballotines of quails and squabs, ducklings pear shaped and thrushes 4 la Périgord; 
terrines of Nérac and ducks’ livers a la Toulouse and young rabbit 4 la mode de Rouen; pains of 
chicken or game. Entrées of larks and reedbirds, chicken mayonnaise; lobster, shrimp, crab and 
salmon salads, also salad 4 la Russe, and at equal distances have plates of small breads garnished - 
with rillettes and fine sandwiches. 

Select from all this gastronomical wealth those dishes liable to satisfy the appetite and at the 
same time make a beautiful display on the table. 


SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERTS. 


Third part.—Intersperse among the cold dishes, liquor and fruit jellies, bavarois, ‘‘ pains” of 
rice puddings, blanc-manges and charlotte russes, assorted creams and crowns, waffles filled with 
whipped cream, macédoines, assorted large dessert cakes, and timbales of waffles, brisselets and 
wheelbarrows of small meringues with flowers or fruits, horn of plenty and Sultan vases, cherry 
baskets, high mounted pieces of gum paste, royal icing, nougat, sugar candy, marchpane and 
almond paste. Fancy variegated ices, such as virgin cream and biscuit glacé, tutti-frutti, Monte- 
limar, Neapolitan, harlequin, bombs and delicious creams with nuts; parfait with coffee and 
burnt almond cream, chestnut mousse and soufflés sabayon; sponge and plombiére with fruits, 
Nesselrode puddings and fiori di latte; pineapple water ices and Favart souffiés; fresh, seasonable 
and hot-house fruits; compotes of fruits, small fancy cakes, Genoese cakes and others iced; bon- 
bons, Victorias, cornucopias, Cossacks, mottoes and bonbon boxes. 

This third part of the menu is certainly the prettiest and most coquettish, and with these lux- 
uries ends the selection of dishes from which an elegant table may be set. 


Drinks.—Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, wine punches, lemonades, grenadine and syrups 
of raspberry, currant or orgeat, coffee or tea. 


AMBIGU. 


A meal usually offered cold without any soup, and set on a table where removes are served at 
the same time, also entrées, side dishes and sweet desserts, and in which the service is blended 
into one, for no dishes are to be removed. Certain breakfasts, hunting luncheons, and suppers 
served in the midst of a ball, are also all called ambigu. 


TABLE SERVICE. 13 


SERVICE FOR LUNCHEONS. 


Lunch is a small repast indulged in between breakfast and dinner. This meal is called lunch 
in English, in French gotter or taste, because it is less heavy than the others, and, as generally very 
little is eaten, itis onlytasted. In France this old custom only exists in country towns where. 
breakfast is very matinal; the English and Americans also lunch, for they breakfast early and 
only dine toward six or seven o’clock, therefore lunch is an indispensable meal with them. Larger 
and more ceremonious luncheons are frequently served; these are called ‘‘ dinner luncheons,” and 
many bills of fare for their preparation will be found later on. For family luncheons there are 
generally served cold meats, light entrées, sandwiches, pastries, ices, preserves, etc., 


LUNCHEON FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, OR FOR LADIES ONLY, OR 
GENTLEMEN ONLY. 


FOR LADIES ONLY. 


Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; 
in the center of the table place a flower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two. 
dossers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc., according to the reason the lunch was offered 
to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a 
high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc. 

At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a. 
line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water 
auecanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and 
two of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the 
right hand lay a card bearing the name of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bou- 
quet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert 
service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let 
the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as every- 
thing is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the 
guests may assemble in the dining-room to take their places at the seats designated on their cards. 
The service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when 
the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw 
unceremoniously. 

If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the 
flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, 
serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette. 


MEAT BREAKFAST (Déjeuner & la Fourchette). 


A meat breakfast is composed of broiled meats, cold meat, fish, eggs, croustades, fried dishes,. 
sweets and dessert. 
‘BILL OF FARE. 


COLD SIDE DISHES.—MELON. 

Radishes, celery, olives, anchovies, caviare, sardines, fresh butter, artichokes poivrade, smoked 
breasts of goose, canapés of ham, gherkins, shrimps, mortadella, cucumbers, Lyons sausage, 
mackerel in oil, tomatoes and pickles. 

Oysters or Little Neck clams. 

FISH. 

Broiled—mackerel, shad, smelts, perch, trout, herrings. 

Fried—codfish, fillets of flounders, whitebait, frost fish. 

Baked—sheepshead, bass, English soles, redsnapper, kingfish. 

Boiled—salmon, grouper, halibut, skate, cod’s tongues. 

Sautéd—weakfish, lobsters, mussels, bluefish, whitefish. 


EGGS. 
Omelets, scrambled, fried, poached, boiled soft and hard, soft, moulded or on a dish. 
ENTREES, 


Broiled—pig’s feet, sausages, blood sausages, sliced venison. 
Fried—chicken, tendons of lamb, crawfish cutlets. 
Sautéd—tripe, chicken, kidneys, tournedos, calf’s liver. 


14 THE EPICUREAN. 


Baked—sweetbreads, lamb chops in papers, quails, pigeons in cases. 
Braized—calf’s head, sheep’s trotters, grenadins of veal. 
Broiled—porterhouse steak, sirloin steak, tenderloin of beef, veal, mutton and lamb chops. 


COLD. 
Game pie, terrine of goose-livers (foies-gras. ) 
Boned duck, chicken mayonnaise. 


ROAST. 
Game or broiled or Scag poultry, with green salad. 


SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. 


If. So fat no eggs Biv been mentioned in the bill of fare, then fruit or va roan omelets of all 
kinds may be served, or else Celestine omelet, snow souffié, ete., but in case eggs have already 
been used, then diversify the bill of fare by giving fritters, crusts, pancanes pears, apples, peaches, 
etc. Have also pies, tarts and cakes as well as cheese and fresh fruit. 

Coffee and Liquors. 


THE BREAKFAST TABLE. 


The breakfast table must be laid simpler, although with as much care and taste as for all 
other meals; naturally there is less ceremony to be observed for a breakfast, the simplicity of the 
bill of fare and wines rendering it far easier to serve. The hors-d’ceuvre and fruit may be placed 
on the table, and when a dressy appearance is desired, flowers or high cold pieces, such as meat 
pies, chaufroids, aspics, trout or salmon, may also be added. 

The service for the wines and cooking is exactly the same as for a dinner. 


SUPPLIES (Approvisionnements). 


Good cooking is only obtained by having all the ingredients healthy, appetizing and nutri- 
tious; the stomach must not be fatigued, and yet the eye and the palate have to be somewhat flat- 
tered. A dish may be more or less simple, more or less difficult, but it must satisfy the taste and 
to obtain this result a cook should only use the best materials and those of the very freshest. 

All the supplies should be of the very first choice; the best cook in the world ean fail to work 
properly unless the provisions are of the best. A cook anxious to perform his duty must pay the 
strictest attention to the selection of the food; this alone constitutes a science based on a deep 
knowledge and long practice. 

Beef must have light red, marbled meat, the fat being firm to the touch. 

Veal meat to be white and firm, also its fat. 

Mutton has red meat firm and marbled, the fat to be white. 

Pork must be carefully selected from pigs raised on acorns or corn, having firm, white meat, 
and firm, white, brittle fat. 

Chickens to be plump, the breast bone flexible, the ribs easily cracked. Pinch the pinion 
bones to see whether they are tender; the same of turkeys, other poultry and game. Old fowls 
can never replace young chickens, therefore use them as little as possible. A fish is to havea 
clear, fresh eye and must be firm to the touch; mistrust it as soon as the belly flesh becomes soft; 
the smell will indicate whether it be fresh or stale; the same of crustaceans. 

Vegetables to be selected of the very freshest. 

Fruits by their appearance and taste. 


TABLE OF SUPPLIES. 
FISH AND SHELL FISH. 


Index for American Fish and when they are in Season. S$ indicates when in season. 














ee te 
prahay 3 z|3 
FIsH. POISSONS. i it ete ee a a | 
StS & | Bet besk faloies) ea leer co tee 
A ae = 
Sl/eElSlia/ein tia lalalé6liglia 

ADZSLOT MOON, « ale ccw che pinky oss Mad bec Chek REoR aes Weeh: kel ne Melee Toe cl = fed eae fre ag ee - 

Baas, lake or biack, 15. [Dane ae Lae.s 7, .cuvel oranin oot ele eel eee. SAS. 6 Be Ss 
RSs pie eo. ow oases OS MO MOR. facae ood eee Pee ee le Gets Cr ak a a ON gs te eee Cpe 
SRT DOID sy 6 $5 | © Bar.....eseeeee. BS. 84 SoS) So Ses so Bae fee oe 

Blackfish or tutor, .... ..pTRUIOR 7 ate oo cae aCe en ean S| 8 | 8-8 ae Sa-5 

Bluefish, 2s 3. cscs paiy.-|\ vob eda eee een sree et ee et BY SREB irises eee 











i oe Le So Le PETES. 



































15 
FISH AND SHELL FISH.—OContrINUED. 
Index for American fish, and when they are in season. SS indicates when in season. 
i a 
cat 2 © 3) 
> es e a ae 2 
FIsH. POISSONS, =e ee || 3] 8 e 
= = > a © o 0} 
ie lees = 5 <a Lk leg Wad le a Md a > © 
@ o oun ue s 3 5 ® © ° ® 
apm ta tte tay St | mI OL a 1A 
PEs b rn os, esac six s » x EMHUING orm gis crea ie a es Sree le eral eye eyo Sane lhe sakes << 
Oe aa Cee SRE te ek eke) ah ue BUGS ae aR ES eee oe aed ee Soe Ss 
Carp,common & Buffaloj/Carpe ordinaire......|..../....J...0[.2..[e00. Asc occ leak Gea ey Met ae eee Rae a 
BSS SC rer DP WET BOLE SS 564 caret O88 REP ae Meee ory Lad aac Wiel Oe celeb ove «3 Ss;8S {Ss 
(aS ree MOlGrne? ns bia es are Den os te haste ems. |. SS. . Sep s 
a eer Rene a MUN eS 8S Fe 5 ce os SSL eer seeies t 8. | e.1. 8b Sor 8 1's 
Flounders or flukes...|Plie, Limande., ..... SPs Meme sel Sate pS. ist .8. 7 Sees 
SS DE ena Tacad, 6c un. caren Seas eee el ee teem eee lee asl os «a 15; 8 |S 
SA a ion a |e a rein oP pd uae DEL ahs! Rs Ra 2 Ragime al be 0s af Reread (am Shen ee Live | 
CO 2 na ALE LGI crag’, 2% 3 ose pie © Sain eee tS tie sp st S18: 18 78 
MID Gre seve a se. PAGIBL oor. we + ks 8 SS ee 7 ORS a VS a RS Re es a a a eB 
PMG oe OW vy ch ss BORON Sos ox aia es es ei Paes Lt a ge as ih ene | are ay eee See tte tS iS 
ya OVA c Cee 7 Ea: Sr Rar ceae Paes Bae Lees tek ae es eA Ns ei Sw i Pe ted Seam 
Lafayette ...... err ete sealants te ne en's Se aA e Sa ts wis | oxo sels 8% fy ws Lees Se Sido 
MMR D TOTS rt cig a ss PADD Yeti ces Coal sials 4 bos ds Wes beers tae eee Same Pay oa bey Soa Ns 
PIBCRORE LS oc ss = oa e's DIATEODNE iceetiac Sirsitsieecaha-2laiv| 5 eet ad image vial aie So Ite en a bd Dated 
- Spanish.... Fapagnol.} eco 1..4+|.. «. LOG Rae et as fess eS eperd ed (5,54 cles sig 
WOR Eh rose a. Sess TPES ode, soe. pen et 9 en ay bd RS eerie Ss | Sieve ery Mee dled wane we 
Muscalonge .......... DERSOHORALIONPE esto. alae fae cute alee e's ou et =e a ke eS 
MOOR ein Gena ces LT ge 1 lee ie ea a ea Sr oS ee re Po Nae We ake, ERS ar cece Gees eal = Sid a 
Rameepereli. cs EI Ce ete ae ae SUNLESS U Lahe iia ate Sal ea aie Irie bas a Sei ESwinsates 
oor -Pickerel...... Hrochet ou, brocheton<:|. 00)... te. + «sis ss eed ets ab eds: | SA ls ba bebe 9 OM dag lees: 
i ST sie’ ar a ea eden sca yo gems sta anea ie 8» Sai i see ere ae are 15 | 8 
oT Se rn SNCS Te Gt See MRO CRANES panel Fae anes Drea 115] 8 | S Libel atone 
SE ROE GR a eae eli onden it jade Hk lite: ERE pemcs RIAeaAL Seas Fie aug teats Bg a 
Salmon, Kennebec 1 SaumonduKennebec 
and Got et de ’Orégon...... S/S |S |S | S |Ken|Ken|Ken|Ken) S | S| 8 
a Truite saumonée..... aie ale ks Se pe a ihc, 2 ohne ehad @ & 2 5 oa Oats Te ays: 
muad and roé......... Alose et ceufs.... ... eC eRe eS ae peat Ae Taree Sclann sta ebb de eae Lace ere 
To Ao cic hy ochs oig.sle x0 e [ica ds’ «Poa e'e fo ws's bes a's PO Ameo ee fs Gk fees 
ke si G.0 wales s Ue Ee a. alee ea eae ee re ce oh oath occ 1H6e aon es See 
SEA Seah ala ods os Re en | SSS 1b ho calles. ES) Sf hoi hers ad eas Sod as, 
Sole, English......... Sole Anglaise........ 8s | S58 oP clea pd ae cat ens Ra ae Seis 
RN een ark Syl fe Onis Gye as be Se ee ee AG at ats ho Reis hg Oi ia eens are Semele oc SS 
oe PERT OOOIE spe Saat sels ws | aes [aoe oi] od Sa bie ce ro je teat poses hore gg | ot i ie Pe ara 
‘Trout, brook ......... Truite de ruisseau....|....]....|.... ir HORS SET SS AG a a ei toad fc cere (eat earrae 
Turbot, American..... Tareasnmoricnine 22/7 | O41. ts SoS bP 1B el... eee b ae feces 
Bere EO eish 6 6... fa Anglais. 7... . Sem Se ee ron ior oe |uwts ciel yee tl ak ale cool ee ee 
che a he ay wg Noah of es nie ese |e 0s ee i inte Chie es RED Loam Grea « 
ud CL are Blanchaille.......... Sha hoe Salo ee ies Sis. ioe oh Sk 8 
ay HCAS iw... Se. ae es NVATOU 24.2 os ee eter eee oe thy ok. fosce ttc ss beanie <= |p Scie 
SHELL FIsH: CRUSTACES ET COQUILLAGES: 
ARGS Mer: oe. es Lucines orangées..... Sess hal SSeS Os es bso eed Ss | 8 
PORE fi. x 3-425 ie PreOne ye eS eS eS ely foveetscs.|-.e | S [8 [8 
RoPmie: MOTTA.) eke wie os Crabes durs.......... Se SACS MLS ioe jee eee EST Sy. ) S.+ 8 
ne PGGiGes o's ee OE a oe via’ s ec fis ow [sce ovis EOE OS) gi ha ts Say es 1 a a ae 
SePAWOSE eae oy veces ss Ecrevisses .........-- i): are lee ays bon feats Sa aed dere ary ite ns Se sa 
PMPURIONS vias ick ue s.ens > Hamards:. cig se os.0 0's Sees Seles s | 8) SiS 1.8 18 
OE CO eae TEE ie Noa Gy nas PRA Bemis (eee pee ES ESOL PASS Dich < ea un aera eee 
SPRRUPI Sse Ss cick en wk Ses EAI POS ets on, sd aie oe ss re ee oo alread etee a [sas § Seo Seii Sa, 8 
LIU ok aie '> ase «ales PStOnoles . 2.5.65 0's ses PUM Tae tS or VES hee card ar os 1. ew |dvw Ble |S se Loss eS 
Shrimps, small ....... Crevettes petites......)..../.... LESS ie) ot Bol woes era oe ea DOO LO aeraie a a) e< 
MISCELLANEOUS: DIVERS ° 
Se a a re as as 
Codfish tongues....... Raneues de morde...-f)5 | 8 |S | 8.| § |:...]....]..-s|- aa ba | s | S 
Crabs, oyster........6. Crabes d’huitres...... SSE SUS ss Hie ae, Diaoarid Pena gar | 8 | s 
Perea ts a ks aes os 80s Grenouilles.......... S S s Ss S_ |Best/ Best|Best| Best} Best 5 S 
UM a bk par oe oe xs TiDIPRTICOS neccicos om 3 3) waive S facts | sop se, St 8S 8 / S 
PBPPSDiDe.s sis <s ae TSETAPODG.cs35 oot a 59>’ oa ok ES ES RY rs <a a vetoes S | 8 
Turtle, green........ Tortue verte......... S S S S Ss Ss Ss S s > Ss S 
Prawns, large ........ CU POULCH eta aires cel is cfs vs ul sixes |eow sts + 0s Saf Se tos. feet Se len etes 

















16 THE EPICUREAN. 


FISH AND SHELL FISH.—COoNTINUED. 


Index for American Fish, and when they are in season. §S indicates when in season. 





o o| 
eden) slalslalé 
Sat FisuH. Poissons Satfés. | & | 3s | 4] _ 2.453 eae ee 
ele lel el ala] el elelei2 
Sie iaial/sls/Slaqlalol/aiyea 
Anch@vied its cles <<< ANCHOR erties ees S18 1818) 84-8-1-8:) 84 $48 28 ee 
Codfish, dried........ Morue séche......... 8.1.8 |-8:/°S°-S 18-8 18-8 7 8 -saee 
EIGUPIND Te beawalescnss | Harengs 22. .c. 2 ches S18) 8 |-8))-8 }.8))-8 1-8 148.) 8. Sale 
“ pickled...... = marings.....85/8S/8S/S/]S;S;S/S;/8S/]8|]8S]{]S8 
Mackerel s..05 vs. 5 dae Maquereau ........-. 8/8/8118 1-8] 8.178 -1-8.|-8 18-7 Sige 
PYOWHSS SG va ys cesses Crevettes.....scseee Shee fee chev oltsaiglt resistive cae S18 7-84-48 
PAMNON Wes o<'bce was xe BRUNO: ca ck ies B88 1848 ) SCS 81-8 set Sa 
SMOKED FIsH: POISSONS FUMES: 
Haddock, smoked or 
Finnan haddie,...... Aigtelin 2 lied «nm ss Si Di hows he oe dlaeeis bet ea ie anh [sane S.) 8. as 
PISO Lah ae ee oe ee RELOGAMs oie 6 bn oho 8 ets > Fy eee Od ak ee UN OP as ag S| Sie 
HON g es ae os se ch oe EEAPOMS pace sims 6493.9 SS.) Sb 82) S82 Rs. bs: 8 oe 
‘is DIGRUGRS UT oC witde scant hicalesels katie ak Shr Sy Stila steeds wae teh. Se leis 5°] SS 
ee Appered lz wr bats syste tev bee aS OP ets Pea dott tak een eae es es se (ert soe ee gee eI Ss > Se 
Mgekerels 5 cis see «oo Maquereau .......... re ey il Ba sor eer es Poe Ae aby PP eR ee 8.) -8 
SEMNOOD . o4 Wik as Herh so PATER OM ice sa acre ui ose Sii-8i1 8-8-6 B.4-8") Sots - 8 yi ee 
BHA Crt Wirkiens oes ts AOR ater oe gtk ae ots Sib Sih Si Be ace be cetatoan eames Si 8 ics 
BLEEP ECON gaits 0% 34> 2 HMStoreeon. 5. ena's «1. O64 Wat) = oy EO BR Ps OE parmcrnl Fy. ey So Eis 38 
Whitefigh 5 secs om aes Ga VArelzaeiees se yeu Pi eae PROPS oF pe” balg atails hava tier a eacaee Renate 8.) Sos 


SS SE SP SU EE SIR ETRE SET SE SDS SE ESS OE EE SE SSE ES SIE SRS RES SPER SES SOT SESSA) SORE EREA NE SRO STS SETS SY 


POULTRY. 


Index for Poultry and when it isin season. S indicates when in season. 
B indicates when the pouitry is at its best. 





al fH f4 

Pe 4 » s Ps 2 rs 

POULTRY. VOLAILLE. ee ee teeth L m|8& |} oo) 8 |‘ 

gif i el Ele] 815] Pel Slee 

® ov 3 > ° 

Sije|2laja/s/S)/4/81s lala 

CODON vanw ces dean tae Ga notsne oe wees a Sees eis | S| 889 eee s 

Chicken, to broil 1} ]bs|/PouletaGriller,1} liv’s} S |S |S |S|S|S|8S]S}8S/]S8S1{]S81]8 

ey Sauter 24 lbs} “*  -Sauter,.24 ‘*-) 8S 1 8.1°:8 | S°1°S 1°8.1)84.-84 83) 8-2 

Mi. Roast «3 bal i . Rétir, 8 “ol 8 1-8 18-1. 8418 )-8.) 8 18:18 ieee 

Fs Braize 4 lbs} ‘“‘ Braiser,4 “(|S |S |S18 18; 8i8 |S ]/ 878) 8s 

Duck, Mongrel........|Canards Métis........ Sie olin ts ea ee are tae pen tne S | 8 tS oes 

ah eR OG hos be ae ‘““  Domestiques.| B|B|B/B/S|S{|S{|S/]8S]/]S8S{]S1B8 
DOCKUNS yu cn pinnae CAaneton 2. teins sash oh Selo is bina po ica a S\i 8S (8S) 1-8 | 8.) Sateeeee 

Row ie ce oe eral aca ee eG Seen! fod eye 5 | S.4° 8) 1-8.) 8.4.8 + 851.858 So eo eee 

(FGGH0 Fee sen oe Sand anu VG. iawn os a8 So) S&S pao 8) 8 Bae 8 see eee 

ory SMongrel és baat. "OTM CHEBE oo. v.03 59 = My a. al 2 = Bes eg = a es ce Perey S| BS tore 
Li0S NE so aes ees sae DISD 5 eke eaves les ase el cual ents ots ee 15 |.84 8 | 3.) 6.3 ae 

Guinea fowl.......... Pintale-c,csoe oc: tea S*) 8 1-8 ‘8-8 ) Bee SaS- 18 +8 eee 

Peane® 52 fe ex Paci 4 tated ae oe St 8..+ 8: | Sc) 8) Beles ls.)) 8) See 

Pigeon otviers favan ek PL QGCON oy Gaeta S88 8) 88. Es. iS) Sark PS eee 

a stall-fed......)0 °° -enprains60../ 8) 8-28 | 8.) 8) SaaS 98 8 ho eee 

PUIIOL, 25 cn Waar ele Poularaga .. veaes ji3 | 8. 1-8-8 8 8 2S eS iS eee 

Bauaby; ficccsedta tans Pigeonneau he kes Dyn Ss SS.) 8-43 -.-8 = a Ee SS sis 

DUPEOY sas eae aes Dae Dindon >. ga. el S| 8) 8 1 S48 t.BeiS a Sar oe eee 

pee a as Ca ‘*. ex.Rh'dels’nd| B}) B.| S | 8 |S} 818 38 1B i Bl Bre 

fe De PenE Oy oa oe Dindonneau.......... BiS | SItSISISITR181 Bi BYR 

Suckling pig........ Cochon de lait’....... So BS 1 8 SAP a es) 8 ees ia oe 





In case no fresh ones are procurable, frozen poultry can be found every day of the year. 























a TABLE OF SUPPLIES. 17 
FRUITS. 
Index for Fruits and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season. 
> o se 
bp | & 2 o 
FRUITS. FRUITS. a | s | 4 ele/8)e/% 
3 By Oo. | os © s o | 2 ® 
= o S fo) 8 | 3 =) fa Ss ° S 
Sle l/salia lia lA lA lal} alol]aisa 
APE BOIS ao. A VOCRS oy eevee ccccfess tle cs oleae slecasfoesclecies RLM ES Sr Lal sce ets cee 
BOE aveceeey...<j2 OINMOS...... Pe Corea ae ease ee Ses | 8.1 S-p 8 
MRE ae siga c= fA DEICOLG Was gos as onsen cede vnie]s vole awisloevsls o's gg URE Rae nar halen Caras 
PORHOBGE: 5 6 6500s o. wrac es DADRNES hee occ) <5 oes SW CS RS Sas OS SO OS a | Sash 8 
PIBPEITIOBs oo cc esc ess Epines Vinettes...... Pes eee erie teense tar ars ba, vide Leese «|e ete o Lee ace Sea | mene 
Blackberries.......... VE ee at cite Pare alls ieods cas te Oe sha sia0| <'s's ofan ee S | 15 CONT ore ; 
OS ee Cerises....... rs RE? cherries ces home oP eee SNE IMA ih cv sLomictel s sea] cers |s + aie 
Chestnuts........ ... PUB UPOUS io eiscelecas sors > « Pei i Bs thet eis pe ned GE ole al fae eee aera are s {8 
ae Noix de Coco......... See Sasi Soe Spree tas) SabeSoal S pesos 
Currants, black & red. .|Groseilles, cassis.....]....J....feccefeeee|e ee eleees See Ls boven Al'ss oh be ek eae ete 
Ss haere DNs te en eles Oe ole ob oat as wis| ieee seco eft wise [ere abe ses 15 eos eees 
RPUNOT Soe eats acs awd PARES Ob Toa Oe Oe | Ree ay Caer ea irae ae DiS [eset Sones 
Gooseberries.......... Groseilles vertes 
dites a a maquereau t eeoeele sor fesse eleeovoieoscfesos NS) Cit it KOCH KIC eal Poraiec e 
Grapes, Brighton...... Raisins, POCIE UGE se Ie Oe sto s(t sides yfose rte ss ite ds all Oot Ba ats aa ; 
Concord 3)... ... CRIWEOR UM eRe ch ha eine trait. ta cic tt sue eae © Osa Scie eeste eee lo G 
ae Delaware. 3... POPIAWAEO 5 ie vals «cates iste 6 elie Sehr nd MPAs Tse Ps eee elec as 
‘« Hautfonds..... PIREULONCG Ayah, eke bole bans Set A ote ess pe ttay es oy gts g te tea = Aa aed 
* Hot house... .. ae de serre.....1.... SS Ses ee ese Set Sey Sars 7-16 
oe a ae cs DM Eaeer tee Petes te BAe coicd aa a fees Space Se POs ee TOS less 
Sd ONL e 5 os a a os zs POT er aru es ole es A ey ee Cee Cee Com eae See ote. face 
MAlae ds . sa « i Malaga..... Shee ae subi lc one tes cles cc [ ans s al cans te Oe a Oa 
=> Wrascatel —..... eS UTERO TES PS) ES) a UGA ae Se? aang Pareriey inacrad Maer See See SS Sens: 
a NIAPATA... De NTS EN cee fais Goss sed |'s.0 a =| ome ofr wos fs oe ie oa Pe Og Pe OG tte 8 ek Sg 
of Pokington.. seated. 2 A Pokington . Peis Wgskg ated acd hs os be ace d ees Se ese Sen roe faust tres. 
SEMRLOWCCOR «ia. ss © eS MC MEGUAU A tao) atest stovdoas of? ka eles he] es 1 Sate Sols S610 4. 2 
eee GRAY ci. wees ef BGO Sed aee ehh sg ste sis fe cals steers s Se Stel ele SSeS) beets 
Gieapeiruit Orshaddock|........0 ce sineees os ld Sas Cans Soh eM DAS ed wes py ots x ReUSKTS PS 
Serecu Cares. 3.0.6.5... Reine Claude, dns. <|- +s Oe ic eee canes ree) eae Sent LBS oe Glee ers fates 
Huckleberries.. ..... PTOLIAGUT Ait atin soem © ee b's thal at ol ape oe ADaiee Ht Sarton Teele oo pe oles 
PS sce CCT op ae) eae ae Sei eS Se Sal Benes Se SR Se pes 
cies 05) s'u,5 ws RCP Eas, rs hrc wi 8b | hve | abe CDE EN MEN ER 5 be OS n/a Po ae a 
PROCS 5 2'5 oe. oa sews PIs POUE ear a arciovste st Lae Seles supe eels os S | neal pas i ipa Capea lean 
Melon, Cantaloup..... Nit MheOMCALOUP on. Gio heae a] as bol de siete sic'sle sce fes es cas ORs ag Pas Ils oa Cg ares er 
eT AVUGIE yoo. + 6.0 EBB PICU OTs ct). termes cis als sd-o4 50's SPM s sols «a's LOPES ate Sele lO. teas aleve? 
Se eB DAMISH Ti. 6 5 a Mspagnol 2.05.43: Papa sures 5 eh bere oc S 
BOM ANCES che iss aco Ser CVORMMASLOQUE, Wiliaitthe sabes «| aes ates ste > s/s i) d= te ee 0 ee ee ee 
WNectarines............ PMO Se eis ee sat eters tavs dy osels <>, [es » SES ece iat eleace ta ee 
Oranges, Florida ..... Oranges de Floride...) S | S | S J....fece [eee efeee dee e feces ‘Vicks paSeg ets. 
<--Mandarins..... CTE IS AN ERTIES 8 ag) OG SR RS Te) pea es (eae 9 a ae ed Reed eke eae ke ea =) 
Per mPANISl 2. «+ of (tepsene..'.o 1-8 1-S.4°897 Si) S |S | 85) 8) 8) 8 8 
UL. 1 in a Pee Ved e ras ore cline lgutictodclataes law ds}ete ss eet Lin 2) Reet et Li sie egrae 
«* hot house OSE ECBRETOM ge. Ga l<isittcd eons [e  beale os SaPasware tere casita bes ee lea e ofa iP 
(OSS pie Oe a See POLPOS Fr ietn snc os 6s SMe re te ata, eeloe Sree « % i Se sSocser ss 
PwMeapPles Foca... PARAS sobs okie es en Sighs Ses) Sel See Se Say SS pss 
RAPER Susrn sh wails 0 MGs ee onli ee whe ca, shared <facd bal ele'e e|e'oe « SMe yo este. las ».< 
Ry did sccel ne nsec [urs clsceufearoluccelocceleses[aseri(eces|(oese a tO ass,> 
Pomegranates ........ PRONAICS? 5 e's cas ass PU ee ee eee alscecetclous wie se els «-s'|> 6A ead ie 
PPO Ses ke www 8 boy al Wie eInne) RSSE mbites Ried PRPS mea caneae ocr Coan Sie) aap Wits el arse 
Rasnpelries,........+- PrAMOISOs bal aseicee cole seats sos Powe eee Re EE Se Stacy per sates» ats = 6 
Strawberries.......... MrpisOSs cttw wore daly heels ae SE ele Se eee etch aus oe sfee ss hah aes 
35 hot house 19] FG SELLE 2 «a> Peele emlittees, Lever rer eeereea POA bane aie ficl'scie'ls ss Mat ithe bars. & 
PAB TINGS yo se seine « «.- PACABTIN Suite sree hs ps oS ole cee] a eco eh ee] ewes S|} S| 8 |...-|-..-].-- 
PPANSZOLIDEB <<. vec ce cee lo cece renee ee eeteewees py re ORES Ore aes ee cy OF bere Bae ...| 57) 8 
Wintergreen 6......5.1 caeeeeees See Nem NG Mo eee e]e ss ofelss adere © s Ses) Sxl is 


——————————————————————————————————eeeeeoommmm:_——0€€_€—€(0€(—e—e—e—e—ewr—e—e—ovv 


i bel THE EPICUREAN. 


GAME. 


Index for Game and when it is in Season. S indicates when in season. 















© o | 5 
p| e 21818 Wed 
GAME. GIBIER. cs es = = © S 2 2 o 5 
(S| el ES] Slot 2) eS eae 
fle lelalslsiési[sajalolala 
Antelope and Venison.|Antilope....... ed oe Aoeeude cd cleo’ s]oaesfaeme) kb (ea ate nn 
Bear, Gee he. wea Cuts & Fires 3 Pree J fovecfececfeeeefeeeefecsefecseleces re) 
Birds, Doe.2 2.52... co. CORTTS FSi aiccc ss cucbesoclowsclecdslecact Bot SB p0N At Tse oe : 
Bee LMT Ree ce ela oe Mauviettes.....ccccccleceslececfecesleerelesecfeccefercctecscloces s 
** Rail-chopper, or 
DORs ror eae cle BAR. Cena ate hss oso} coal ce claocele’ cols ccfs de-afotubohea otto ime an 
soln Reade ts, veeee-(Mésange Moustache. .|....|....Jeceeleccefeeselecec[eces[eeee| 8 S | 8 18 
Rice. ...........|Olseanx de Riziare..,.[J 8 [8 | 8, |.<.<|.0ssfescclees-f-eenl 4) nn 
* Small...........,/Petits Oiseaux........ 8s] 8 vis abe Stree ..| 8 | 83)Saiae 
Ba lala, ccaste sve PTS e i. 2 $5 5m cleles «0% Sr bass tos vileseslees cheveslsces}sa ou tomaa i=in 
Ducks, all kinds ..... Canards de toutes- 
Sortes cians. oo 8 | BES 8 |.8 Pp Saas 
«© Blackhead......| ‘“* aTétenoire....}JS |S} S |S S| 8 | Sos 
hl ae ich ger Tel co aA im Pipe aie 2 Os, Ne are = ies ey Meet Bas. s 18 S Ss 
oto SMaliard: oo bh e's eR UVEY Soy nS Ge en Oe i 8S.) 8 1 S32 
SeP BERGA TROLS Fintere gt «« Téte rouge..... s{/S{8S]S8 § | SP Behee 
«* Teal, bluewing..|Sarcelle ailes bleues..} S | S| Sj] 8 S°|8 | -Sshse 
‘* Teal, green..... «« ailes vertes...J 5 | S| S {8 8 | 8) S3ae 
Sea WV AE CONG slo a 50> Canards siffleurs......{S |S {8S [8 8 i:8 1-82 
BOE VO OULD ped 3 0 ake Uae Fe Wns a Sissi StS S [8S 458aia5 
Geese, Brant........+: Oies Barnacles....... Set - 148.18 S [> S 48a 
re Waild aintu ventas $f GAUL VAGES oo. vse k Bub S jhe] 8 S | 8.13 
4trouse or prairie hen../Tétras ou poule t Sg s |S) egeume 
de prairie ee hens . 
APE RT PCO. Seca fart | OULRGe ys oir as a SES BAS ANG Be Ge S_[-8 See 
Hare, American.......|Liévre, Américain... |....]...eJe-oefeoes re et 
St HOURNGH wi 6 dns ant et ee cee ase S [ S joe Jeoeele S | 8 | S4iee 
Partridge...... hn easeten Perdreatt 00 << svar pap hl seni new cis «es »iS |S 1S 
Pheasants............|Maisans ...... saticare ol too toe cle wince ls a's ads oleae she am x tcteeene me S|} 87s 
Pigeons........ Se aeG EI MON iy telat sesiiesesicecst eet -| S&S (8 (Sai 
Plovers, Grass........ Pluviers...... SE CONE POE Pees See S | S\isseie 
<— .Corn, golden) )\*t om darées 3 2.03. A RASA her Dee S| 8 ) See 
«« ‘Yellow legs..| ‘‘ 4 pattesjaunes|,...!....]....].... S | 8S 3832 
Ptarmigans.5 2. fis ees Poules de Neige......].... Sy} Sa)58 ove stein eat amiete aaa 
Daas eke. tee Cailles. . b7orn satan. 0 BEA cas Ee amis meee ROR ee Pe Ss | 8 
Habbrig7. itss5 es Sehr o LLM alice Case rdcuass feats a7 Pred ae ees Pee ea s | S8 
Hobins \osjio.ives «eee se OURS SUIS wn eeainss Lawjagaiinst {selling |....)....|.* |seestee oe) seen 
Snipe, Curlew...... ..|Bécassines, Courlis...]....]...-|.... S | 8 |-3 
«s,s Mnghish #5 eee: s Anglaises.]}... Pr) ae : S | Sea 
Rok pe GIRGY «ach cures + du Jersey.|... shite as S.} &48ece 
BAD 5. aa deans ae de Sable..]... a RS AR S | & pss 
Squabs, wild. ........|Pigeonneaux sauvages]....|....[.eee|eoe S| 8 pease 
Squirrel...... oes duns MOCUTOULLG shea ec oee etm BS fee: 8.} Soi Sate 
Turkey, wild... ..+0.|Dindon sanvage......] 8 | S [8 } So hic csleacelecusless lees sionam s |S 
Woodcock. ii. osas.e0c BGcasseGs, fsicos cskes Ss eoelsee ee Ss NS) NS) 





Almost everything, not fresh killed, may be found in good condition frozen, nearly every day in the year. 








MEATS. 


eeereeeoene 


Lamb, Spring. 


Lamb, Yearling....... 


MUILON, «isos 














eestor Se PIES. 19 
_ MEATS. 
Index for Meats and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. 
B indicates when the meat is at its best. 
5 % 

pe | B : eS 

VIANDES. a/5i/cia © sine lacie. | a 

BI SElEI eI SiS] 8/ 2/3/51 8 

SliS@laidgiais iS /4/e2t6el/2a)a 

DOM eee ee eo Beebe See tse | SSS tS | 8 | BB 
NORVON TOR Wert oh ¥ s3'e = |ccate: > | obs eS 1s SP HS. [sae sto ee ofa cs dete 
Agneau de lait....... ey jy sak. Savalas eas 2h De ea ary gn ee Meek Rar Fare | 

Agneau Tardif... Soe eet ets) BB} BY 8 18 

MGOLORS..acc hide ee Reese teres Ss) Se 8) SY S81 BB 

ROCHON: suis ces $5.00 ces Dose bene is) 6) 8 eScs-+ Ba B |B 

Veats <5 S05 Pik ahe oF Beeb BiB Bs CS |S 18 +B |B 

VEGETABLES. 


Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. 


M Indicates the month when in season. 


E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H when cultivated in hot-house or hot-beds. 






































ont tH 
pa Capeerre ts.) s 
VEGETABLES. LEGUMES. a Gee ea ee Bo aes | a1 a 
BIS /E/E/EL EIS) Pl BISi E13 
Silm@lseizaiazisisAlalalédlaia 
Wrtichokes:....°.....- APUG AdTE cae 3S Ey E; Ej E} E| E| E| E| E!| E| E/E 
= Jerusalem./Topinambours....... DES DAae ea Nee letidn ts. sales Seles <cleees M/;|M 
Asparagus, hot-house. .| Asperges de serre.. A Miors OR Ae cle aia ve ieee vl eistes | ov ae ia ssl oe ste ose 
Out-door| ‘en Pleineterre|.....15|M |M|M|M|....|....| ...|....]...-[..-. 
B: Green ‘‘ Sls oe N-OTLOR Noisci, acs «fea ocd Plime ae Niet aM DL take ol, «seco wa tecs ss [ose ¢] oe s.0 
mipar. *f SETAE OUNCES, 5-5 00.4: |0'8'0'3 Des rk INE oe PERE arans | a e's Peace ebeis wel one. g alae 's% 
a White * ey DIGNCHES.. 2.4. «|. = « Tee Wee Were hac nicle wa cieae 8] ccs [acc 
Beans, Broad......... Re erm ie ee set a tad WY Lota ol v os w laces s | wosne REMMI STS ahs 
of EG ae er PID TUS a I Poe scat tia tee Se ee wisle wists wee leas obese es Di reier Poh ah oy 
(stg Ul ee tee OTEBI she a <8 MiM:|M;|;M{M/iM/|M/|M{M/{M/{M{M 
*< Wax and butter. |Mange tout........../.... Moai Mol Moy MM Moy M18 1... 
Ne Baa a Betteraves........... M;}Mj{|M |newi M{|M|M/M{M{|M/]M{M 
Brussels sprouts...... nm wer xeuecs ates Mer IO scl oi stariecfa peel ae slasce|nees M/i|M 
Cabbage, Green Kale..| ‘‘  Verts Kale.....M|M|M|M ba Re id iat Ue ek ed Od ne 
eon Coke Raabe a PERU CRS 45. 5'..5 Mir i Ene MA ee lags on 15|MiM|M{M 
fe BAVOV iss ss *« de Savoie. .... Wig evita Nan et one 5 | cle cot ate ons 155|M|M{M{M 
Pees White... 3. . aE CTs ime ae Minewij} M|M;iM;/;M/iM|M/M|IM|{|M]M 
oi ae ra WRRGOUS ic ened Fe 8a ieee rate te hae gos eae ales <a kcns sles «she es 
nk ee none Carottes. ....0.5s000 M;M{|M |Inewi M|M{|M;/;M/|M;|M;{]M{M 
Cauliflower.......... Choux fleurs..... ... E/E! E;/;H;|A/]}H{|M;/i|M{IMIM{|M{M 
Celery knobs, Celeriac. |Céleri rave........... MSE Ma Mi NEA os, bo. as 15|}|M|M;M{M{M 
BRUM TY eis ose ss s.06 NOLO Sed o-0 be hres MI|IM|{|M{IiM|M[MI[|M|{M|M{[M|M[M 
Corn, green.......... LR Tg Gr MIE. SUSI Go Rielly Tare Fate 79 eo tered ae Cana Pee 1's ONES” Bll Ee aS he a ee an 
‘Cranberries........... Caneberges .......... Wier OM PRET loca loaeuts sector ctos «| | M | M 
‘Cucumbers........... Concombres.......... H|H!|H{|H|H|H|M/|MI/IM|H/|H/ 4H 
«« Small pickles|Cornichons..... Eee OES Ban Bh Red ORC) Cee) Cee ROU STALG 1s occten ss 
Egg-plant............ Aubergines............M |M/{M/{M/}M/;M/|M;M/{M/]M/M(/{M 
Lp CAR ts ne ee (ADDS BOG. aie eons » .-|Mi!M{M!i!M{|M!M |jnew|}M}|M/|M{|M{M 
Herbs, Basil.......... Herbes Basilic...... Serer ea rs ae case el Som os aren | ee 9 0 (SON tT i ee aor 
«‘ Bay leaves, dry.| “ Laurier, sec.....M |M|M/|M|M/|M|M/;M{|M|M{M/M 
Sees eect) -  FIMpPronplle.. oslo. clos ccles cslasssfooes et P Ms ssf asa] os's 
Paee mervil,...,2..1.°°* Cerfeuil........ Hi|H|H/|H|H|H!|IM{|M/{M/H/|H/|H 
(ee Chives.;......-) “  Ciboulettes..... H|H|H/|H/|H/|H!|M/|M{|M/H/H/|H 
pO Fos oa « SE cio AG Gad Ae Parad ieee eae Circe ree PPE: br NE Weie's 0G 0's 
“« Marjoram...... OOO SSS UE UT 20 ge el eng a a Pees Eee Dire MM fos he ess 
eID tareds ly co's 3 pee Mienthescy: ic, ss H|H/|H/|/H|H|M;|M/M/|M/H/|H/|H 
peSePRERIOY «o's 52k: ath’ barat he Rk as ane MIM|iM{|MIM/M|M;{;M;/;M|{M/{M | M 
‘¢ Rosemary...... EMLAMILCELA A Ue cada eroie|s see's av a's visnl se eats ceeds ces Ga 8 a A GS a 
EE a OT 6 ee RSME TIO Gi. uteri, |. oss]. 2 eo fs cee |era slo es clones Mey MM yee. a hes 
Ress Varragin oo). + « Estragon..... §H/HIH|H/|H|M|M|M{M/|H/|H/H 
AR 2 ee ONE Ce a ee eg ea Peri eee eee a Motori: Mii els ae 
ee Aah ae Ee BeOS erie ney ibaieln cis ds ola ss eft. e pCO Ree ere Wie ae AAEM bear Coed ae ee 
Kohl-rabi eee oaeeee Choux Taves eCaeeeea ieee vile ee vise ev ojeevevi xe eerito eee M M M M M * 


RO fig THE EPICUREAN. 


VEGETABLES.—CONTINUED. 
Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. M Indicates the Month they are in season. 
E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H Indicates when the vegetable is culti- 
vated in hot-houses or hot-beds; § Indicates when the vegetable comes from the South; L Indicates 
when the vegetable comes from Long Island. 












































we ——————————— 
@ S| & 
Regn ay PPE Go be bees PU! Po 3 
He 3 wa = 2 g 
VEGETABLES. ; LEGUMES. = 5 a = a Oe g g ie i) = 
S/S 1S |B Pla lol 2) ee ee 
Sing |/S ial lea lela | 4] e@ ove 
DOCES. oc sastces erties POIPOGUS C65 cies coe 3s MIMiIMIMIM/IM|M|M|M|M{M{[M 
Mushrooms, cultivated|Champignons cultivés}) M|M|M/}M{|M|M/|M{|M MiM|M{M 
A Field .... ss de Prairie). 4... .}. 5... MAM MAS aes M | M | Moe 
$s Girolles .. ae Girolles. 1h. sclie cele ascls a0 lane alee ee ae ceweee M | M |-16 (2335 
cle Morils. .. a Morilies..)- 2. 315 ote lil. FAG Peal, peel ee eee M iM | 16 (sees 
Okra or Gumbo...... Gombaut ..........+. sis|i|S!|!S|SIM|{|MIM|M{M]/S 
Onions iis ose aalewe oes OIPNUUE cs sick ap tssas MiIMIM|MIM|M|M|M|M|M/{|M|M 
oe BOPMUGa 23's a's «¢ de Bermude..j 15|M|M |M [M | M {... 10. o.) 255) Se ee 
Pee PSPTERE Vad gieignt ate $00 POETS So c's 9 2 oe MIMI|IMIM|[Ml.....M|/M/|M;}M|M/{M 
Oyster-plant........../Salsifis.............. MPM} Mere PMO NS oie Mi|M|M!/iM/|M 
PSYSnips eos ..cnsss ve PAA ae eine ts we sas Mo) MEM ae eae MiM'!tM;{iM{|M 
Peas (South).......... PIS PTE Lis 2 cee sil acaos SiS|S{|S |S [LiL Lae 
PURPORTS oe) ve ween ee Pony yr OUS stan. c \aa SiS|S|S|SI|MIM|I|M{|MiIM{M]/S 
PURBlORR a en aati ie ees Pommes de terre...... MiIMIM|S{|M/iM/{L{15|M|M/M/M 
‘* S.Bermuas, :. « <<  Bermude..... 15 |MiM{|M {iM i M ti...) .. 2 5 le ee 
eee HAVANA. kx ok oS TER UANG pec. ss 0 < 15M) M foc. be oe chee indie Sig soe ene or 
SP SWC ws es Patan ee see NE MNES a i ee vowel M | M 1M) ae 
PUMP EING... Ghee + so ke PUMTOne sh cre tas 2s 1 Ws Bt 0a Sel pee Para Peers Pace oA M{|M:iIM{M 
Radishes, black...... Perils tate ee eh ete vse ...(MIMIMIM{|M{MIM{IMIM 
“ Horse. :20 RAMOS bse as cn oes ss MiIiMiIM{IM:I|MIM{iM{Mi{|M{M/{IM{M 
es ThGthte aatctae Badisrougeis ta. c+ MiM{|M|M:IM|M{|M/{M{M{Mj{iM{M 
<4 Whiteor pray) 2°) blanc On Tis... 2), 0.6.1. sais. 151M|M\|MiIM{|M MM i6s 
PELE IAT Ie wen his bine PTIND GEE DG rw tates! oa) aes Mi M |M |) MOT Mo .04..07) 233 
Salad, Monk’s beard. .|Salade barbedeCapucin} M | M | M |....J....). 0.0]... e fees cle ne claw selec. M 
SS OID V sss eee be BF G6 COl@P insist 4 2 A Rs I a aera RP pp) Mi|\M|M|M{M 
FEU MICOPY \f.02 calcu Ted OAD CUACORCR ecole foie Nk. | ANE hc Wha ey teas. oe M;|;M|M{|M/;iM{M 
ae hE AR Roe ‘¢ de Maches..... Mat MES Besse aie clos oe ene MiM{|M 
: andelion...... ‘« de Pissenlit.. 
Tete use MiM|M/M/M [ea 
«¢ Escarolle. ...... ‘«¢ Escarolle ...... NDE SM bo Vee Set woe Oe ee Mi|M{|MiM{IM 
id get Resi ai tae Pee ‘y delmilnews: S'¢ M{|jMIMIM/iMIMIM{M{MIM{|MIM 
s¢  ROMIAING 44 < oe ic wa Pele OOTIAING ae he ce tate toe clere es MiMiM iM? M ) Maar 
“* Watercress...... ¢ | \Cressotisi.. sss MiIiMi{iM/iM/iMIMIM|{Mi{M{|M{IM{M 
ANALOGS pica tua ciacees BiChalOtes iva au eure gee MijM{M!iM,;M!1M InewiM|M/{|Mi{iMIM 
Rorrelie fe. fs pak ee Oseillen inc «> scita > * HiH|H|H|H{iMiIMIMI{MIM|H/IH 
SOMOS sic haus oe sere Poplar... 2. sericea anis MIiIMiMiIM|MiIMiM{|MiM | My ota 
Squash, summer, white|Courge blanche tte 
6 ce yellow aé Jaune e. eee C8 2 ON Om Se ae ele Sew hee Se. M M M it: eereeleeee 
** Winter, Hubbard ‘c -HubbardHiver|. Mot Mo] Mof-t6.e iis sles MiIiMIMIM 
Ss ‘< Marrow. ‘¢ Moelle =f Mo MO] Molo the aes meee M |}.Mo Mew at 
OWMBLOOS hor bs Yeh otis TT UMARIR Gs cates ars 9% H;|;H;|S;!S/;8S;}|8S/|S{|M{|M{|MiH/H 
Turnips, Rutabaga...|Navets Rutabaga..... M|M|M{|M M})}M|M | M | Mei 
La TeltOws .i- .« 66; ST GLGO Wag o's a’s ohc c eo ohd cos tedtosa tae te veer Lee rene Serene MiM|™M 
se WAGGA. oie vias ‘« Blanes. weeeee M!Mi!M!M 31M iInew'new!newlnew! M!M !M 


























TABLE OF SUPPLIES. aL 
MODEL MARKET LIST. 
On On 
Recd|pand|Need Recd|hand|Need 
BEEF, PORK AND PROVISIONS. 
RPO eG A Semen ee 6 By os cs Pre NSOMECHU ET Pa Ge PREIS e cies 600 0.96 DCB cules vse ee 
BOP NANO) ss ys .0.0ce 0.00.0 rhea Ie POST, crdeccccmts aie BGOUN Awe kw ees neve es IDB ele ¢ <. 
y ETIGUTIGS oh css mrsls oot aie POC baer aay bose PCCUN ETS aan A aoe ce ees oles s j ie RAY 1 ee ee 
se UNOS Cr, See eigen al i ae aS PBI CEI tai. g ab a ole ies ae » JON oe Ses pe 
TS ES ate rece ae Vice 3) Comptes xeon) evs SOCAN a ee ae aCe RS opm Ot eas 
Ee eecrals era's o's ase etic ears Byer ere pee BOR COs rid eginssiss 5 s0cs.s/s ld ia | pees | nares 
BRERA, Lies ott scree eee cnee Pen Pal eG alates t BUPPENY CSLD UAE ce Se, cee os 2 if al iaae A ease @ Iti is 2 
BRO Ue cay coisa Soo Oak Ws 6 = 60,8 Sa sire BO ae Lamb Tongues.... .... welaie nae. 6 PA tO A te 
ME onc 'arycit ¥ sg de ss 0 one ea Cat Bh ee, Bee ROB Eat Ss ees adage ties. 2 needs wets Oe Rie reed rin 
Pe OL DONG). os ease nce cus ad Nae eed are an MEAS OCR eg he dione se cle oo eG Rite ges "ge & 
MARISA Ris ce cess v6 0s eae meee tes WN Olih, eras ck occ ecacee ads DGS ese de ee cee 
SMe TIOTGis wine bee ve EES head ace) RENIN EES tae EOP eel OUOUGS A. 15 ae e640 ness mace ete alee ete cs 
Marrow Bones..... eee tee eee eT Alb OTR, DECASb i. <<. s 6s cc's. ea 6 Ar Re Lee 2 aa 
Palates ....... 2 Soe Ee ne ice ey ares PAUIBAR ONDE 22% 100 sik coms os ss 25 ANS belie 4 ie ed (aA : 
ee cc ae er caecs cs dese slaventese a - Frankfort........ BR Bal eae Baas vee 
5 See bk rad LS Berg rey eee Dr OAL css cot eres oy ne fee Fi cae baie Wining H 
ROE) Gc kane use Gee ale nh clr i s 3's SS eA” er eae UCR IME PID to. sete ee ue we 6 pes a OA 
SME Ie saa sel 40 6s eee DCMI a nas fancies <6 Smoked Beef........... woke sits lbs BP epee 
Tongues, Fresh......... yee ee og PS ahaa OE Smoked Beef Tongues......... DOS. 1N es sl ele ee 
Ne ras eu sicchss scedeensess|[seee|ss AP oer Tenderloin .......... Fld hehe Ibsaee as ler cctes es 
EL DBsrrtrat)ciscstet a APB Ae WOU SPE are Sellmtaes foes : 
LAMB (SPRING). 
OO ae Matic sie 3 «ios aS O28 aR oes eee 
ers. Ort CULS. . sce cass ae uit Dilek eee tear Map aah 
feo twelve Rils......<.00% i Lig did Bi hGe HOO ra Apes Be CUOK OS area ia. fica tcsitiy os DOSaa tect | ay vn 
Saddles, Fore..... | ere RA a ea Soa laniee l= « soto aw rs Jerusalem......... DOCK ocd sere ye ace 
as CT) Sag ae a ae Pete esate st oH ASPATOCUS Vr. ve aa emcee eens bunch.|.. 2 ee 
POMC TAI gis c ales cease owe Ce crates ared'e 5 3 . LADS US oni 5 oleae somes a ah AGA ean I 
ES Te cig as Saka ye ecb tele eafaceefe ses DORMANT ect axis c « OUSMOL | So wiles bars oe 
aoe MOLI cen ese we se A Sr eae 
LAMB (YEARLING). PICO tS cee hs ee ae acne Se SESE eed age inne 
le a cal a DGS coats vats os" Brussels Sprouts............ hoe hl ghd hae aie bees 
ie a eS a er otel Lema tia RUT ED Gorey ila ale cine pres 6 Nata sia.ai's! 0% bbl: eS: 
Re aie koe Finis bce les e's Secs usta lg tite o ¢ | WALEOU ONOWS cece chic seins sae 2 SMA ete. hs 
Meas fies ccnp es seces Stee Matas at eaten tist ciate UB DEO Neat Mies 00 oon ess TOE ert Ss aA 6 oct 
Ree MNOL Cll... cs cecewcsss Tied Wepre peers Etre CAMLLOWELS Galle Oe Cass os core ~ ae esas Ala ees 
Sumer welvO Ribs... cae ce eas as canker ee ae | Celery Knobs or Celeriac.... bunch.]....}....].... 
paddles, Fore.......... teins oe er oo sipl o.8 es eA TMP DCU Doky aonrs ae es} 2 ey) od CA ArT 
3 Gat. 2. 5 + Pees ties ote LEA bs 2 poet range eae Corn, Green.......... rence Mane of DES. fae ba bae ws tee ae 
Shoulders........ Se eR PMG ole sce bess Cranberries. oc 7k ccs ces os 3 ustiels tec <\ estes Versace 
Sweetbread........... Sk ee ge ees 2 ea ipa 4) ee MILCMINIUGER 6 7s cial aetce tes oe ns DOZibeatt ts cleat 
CO AT ea BURG ae eee RRL ES eee late ipl eietee Unis SIE Oper ae ine aioe hier SEP dc el aitte a aati 
Das knee en eee ee tes eet ates) GARTUC {ca weweaclececseeccccevee . loescleceslensss 
TOT DE hie Sek esac ce hese DUNCH. 1. sees cleats 
MUTTON. See COHOTV IL wot, scars eae s SOR S Lewes lsc sta as 
MEEMMR Erg. 5 s/s. s/s <6 3s iiss cint, PCS ; PoE HATV ORI 9 oc sierers a ee 5 oy a oh Pati ad Pa Meme “ 
os 1h Ra ANS GE 8 i 2k BAe SSM ELIE Bre cl nin ce niu 2 5. wisi i oo Pe ne ; 
Ue eee Sgela mien BSS Pha eA 2 ie one EA ISIEY cats 'e's'a a sisi 8 OPS | aes Sees 
ES ene eyes bos e's SE Vhs ak] stetaual seas Bas LEITAPON S ciere cies veh 6 ST EN Ca re : 
Legs...... Rete Seats siecle Rapa ee OSE Hearne « avocall ipeede PROUISTAD earn cas stisiaicce:s <'e EP ME Sieidie| as 6 x1o.< 9 « 
Rem UO LEU CG. . « a0.0 es» '>.d0'9.0 SIR od Lal eve'l cis; oo PROCES Ose aee eae we ee ou Soreayt [ctanuhs| her atx fnis $0 
Pee LE WOILVE HiDS...s\caccee eee Pia ctl o's in 6 Sass IOION e NLUBI ok ona «sens ame | elec fattng MRS OSS 
ee ete OFS lia sus os aes oe pcos’ ST ee od Bees Panne Mushrooms, Cultivated......... oF i yay ree ae 
ff UND. 2 Re ae ae habe | Rete Pert Maa cs PuGIO Perens ress Pa og Re nee 
PR ELOT Sirs « sieeve 6600.8 00 SOU eatesels 4. Sls aa COPA Mee aR ee Wis Ces bee «awe BO eet Scone ths! aya s 
RN TEATIGGON. whe < ace acess ass EY POS a.4 Bares aera ADAa TG peta oh gies este 8 e's 58 85 0.8 LT TREO eee eS Iaegg 
eg INR ILe Rater ivels Savin ss 6 * DOOR lec Poutacediresars 
VEAL. Oveter Plants weitere. «s+ sess ROA tera hii cets tafinh ace 
aE > SAAS a eae ae DORI oats, obese 0 «rs POPC Dac Ate ca tiad sc oiels t's 6 38 RICCR aeashae a e< 4s 
PAV OOEEA Sie i vig yc eis be a'0 0's 3 0 00s TWSsla cies alc ese MOSS eh aso pietsts aitelt aes win 8 PUSGO Pees] ses. eines 
POOR GS ese nee ane xc eS Opiate ay sels «0s POPPIN ics Gents cw ace a wp euees fa We SS are 
POPE UALLOLS 5 0. c)s ss in ce oe Bry A eeme sce hee | Ceerate' ls: sic.a MPOtHTOCSE cj oheias es wastes 1 oe DG tsieeaiels eects ss 0 
PECAS Scr pitt ews a ss es Auiavelse EOP Ree DT 1 Ses ey eae fe By OWL eee tettccs race ise ie wo SA | NR ea TR a NE 
PET MOU ALLEL 5 ¢ nstsicrolee sinei0c es ada th ks ons betas 4 Mweelsrmeccacs.vs os WUSHEOIT oes tajac Shas 
PGT OVSe igh on no ea gan- a isrecesie. eee Seeet dezarail ste io-a flare 6 PUTNDRU occa kaise See's cess. DCS near las ile cee 
ty a Soeceiajohiiel wens tscagers CDRs ae ok hee « PR tebe eek vic ce ec whiees =< Ota het t ns cals ses 
ROR Ps sks Kia eee hs 6, 5b %4i0 lee Eat ueitek buekicrs + Rslesa ahs acise ML OFSO si-rickecscscce ces oie ES al oe et : 
shoulders ........- Tia ikistei ge win vine SSebae a lida © als is. 9.8 ES BEL oe peat tis is oe os 4 sy bis as SO ie L'a ik Unset . 
EAPIMIALAEAITOWs «1. sc 6 aslec's s sens « MDS. tarts... Parade ante oh Balad BATUCA. ci <i esse see's ee 2 ares es eee 
Sweetbread ......cscscecsccees TICS. ase fo stot no ie « SP COLCE VE «) sis nik va ee ne ee +s Siaba a's. sito s\e a4 sialon 
RMU aie. scr 35's Sa Ol a a ee ee a eae [aestehee = « SE NICOL: islaislas «> aie 6 4 0 \0 es PINS ipergs ey 
Tongues..... Oa hears eis mhcits © © MR PSCOEN 5 2 iuialas, 060300 se DOCK tastes lowai ts oo 


a2 THE EPICUREAN. 


MODEL MARKET LIST.—CONTINUED. 


Deen ————— eee EE 


























t n 
Recd some Need Reed Pete Need 
VEGETABLES—continued. 

Salad, Dandelion............. DOCH oyaet eas fore' es Shad Roes .......-eesceccscees PCS.) +i. ae) eee 
i Wilernenila ei sce. cla, YA Ag MG CRE Sheepshead .........eeceeeeees Vos. | 3 co) tsteteeeee 
trad Lb or ee oe sgh bath eit a eats eam SHIM. 25 ea ko Ree eee quarts, |... 2.) <s50)- sae 
“e PR CHTELEL EIT Osos tore, oR ot ace ack OF ae em hicks Wee ee MIEAbCk cay ce clataikete celal ete tebenetstetee | os iy ere ey eet al FS -: 
St SNY ater CYess, oan. »'s POTTS & Rp ee eae Smelte: s..lieas eco ack aen See ee Pees eee 

MSU fete ee ate oe cae a UAE Te) Bebaiae Rare eageaes Sole, English. ............00e0. eee Pry Pe ae 

MOrrGh As hing caintunis oc bis bone APTS cas ot Ma Pete Spot Fish: 3.) 'occ aw cinke sintosn ce eet oO). = «lee ee 

Sanh Stee sees ak ao? late Feat ater eae arr Terrapin + «sc avi oie ola os doz. or Ibs:} ...1.9.9)neeme 

Squash, Summer (white)....... DUS Ase le eh oe ts Trout, Brook.........++++++++- eae oo Ooo Goo 

es (yellow)...... Ese A these Turbot, American............6- i ey Cir = 

“¢ Winter, Hubbard ..... SOM ee es bce 6 i European ceucccccsceacee en err 

66 66 Marrow ...... as Loko ie date Turtle, Groeniien ¢.45Kenweseee bles Sar Fe 

Tomatoes....... Peat cc eh aes t case Ee aes cae Weakfish <5... 504 «oes eseees SPR Sy Cy Oc 

ERTIES hes Series ee eae 20 ORR ated Gale W hitebalt - o.. 66. ystleas esis ee os Os Ge - 

Whitefish: >... 3is..0.;.0 eae gaeee 8° US eae] earee RS 

BGGR ee Pep LD Hee ees woe cn he Sire 52h ino 
fresh.........+.++6- os cccecees PCS.}. 0. -Jeeeefeeee GAME. 

Ordinary. cic cis see seis eee ae ee METS Baik hs. << 8 finials Antelope, 8. or L. ......ssee00e Ibs 

eeseceereseeeeeerereereeese eee woeeeetioeteoloeeeiosee Bearers oe gon Ma te eee 6eé 

G. Birds, Doers; has ootitees pes. 
, CO ) Lark Sion ae eee a 

Bass, Black or Lake............ ier or ny Pa Bee (tS Hail, Boras. Catan zs 
PROCES iy Ee ae vie eo a OCS eed aaa EE *“* — Reed, Rice.............. ys 
Bee a yn ks oe By Baee Matrne’ AA ak Seay Berton Seka a Buffalo suc 0... sate een Ibs. 

‘« Striped..... pee SAE) Lo ee eae ....{| Ducks, Black-head ............ pes. 

Di AGW iss Wis area Vas <olaalecrcn ten 6 Ate, BA 2 eet BS Sn Brant... pep dee rate es 

Biuefishe. ys Ge we: sat edieste at ate TOME | dae 2) hate os” -Canvas-back.25..3.0 nets vie 

BPD ALO ats «wale bina Sino Nemvetas Loan chet. tc~ (Mallard... cccee a tenes * 

Clams, Hard..... tp amtna amet « pes, ae aE Penden re'>, (RON - DER Aon Oca ee eee rte 
STEN OLE sae eihs «as faa cies wees of EES ee ARS, FP ECMO Y ics cea oR m 

JO ee ge ae oe ARS es Ls 1 OP Seal, Baa fo Peal BWV Ano ine eke = 

fee SUEY osha en o5's Rotana ile OR ibe Wl Barns eter RATOUSC. #7e gure piens 20 vaiaraclonaniaes o 
Pe LONBUOR ys cdcan sa ctac cas Mone Rete otets } Hare, American ...... <0 s.wcese 4 

Crabs, Hard... ....% ee eee The dy PORT Ce eet ce ake | Hare, Europeans... 65. iewse a 
Le SEY See amie eo dee Sia [1k aly bebe y Bae Paritid ROR: ooo. 5 coo ciwkerd a elttatee a 
it) s Sots phell.7 Vs. 6234200 win ee POR res paetal se Pheasants, English........... Pies 

Crawisheecicas srcc RANA SS A sa ans Rein ee Plovers,* Bay 2.3 (25 6. nteeeeees as 

eda kis oy Gave bas sso bucre tO eleets caret ee Sd RATER 5: ou ¢ Minha el cect eae ¢ 

Fioundérs. cocks cow & SR Ah AIS EE, Wipes eg Gs ‘* _- Yellow legs, large..... ag 

PTOR Gc ne con cin ETT rik il Pea cea ee iia ss sma. ve. 3 

Frost Tiki. ii. secsss 0 SAAS Sn BR ales Se She hee Plarmigans leis <2 vices ceaeee dy 

GTORUDOL 5 a's4 sss cues cede WieplenalEs bates te anaes UA os oss sb 4 os ce oe Uae % 

PiaddGeke ts as sas an pa knele cna Meus. ase taal RADUUS ris ows ae +s bane eae a 

tts © ABORT aise Gale area ae te Ree hee tk ean ona a SHIDO Saw as tlie dace tebe eee sh 
Hatibut, 6 tole Lbs cis ined ses Batt ae rere arele Sy SCD TIGIS 50 e's eu wa he ee e 
EGrving | oso 3N se vse ebere ones DOS ee clnie SS SRS Gila ong faa a aren ate eae me 
ct ) IOREOPR.L o's capita ee ate rbih 283) 3 eg) Pee a Dans he oo W doc oe was 2 Wattialeee “ 
tS EPMA fone ga ge ia Saale ots FO ree! oe bide ak 1k QOLEROA 1 04 2 imped eek ae ee eee a: 
a A tee POR cscs oe cae a are G Wee SES erg Turkey; Wtldvwni sees ek asees Ibs-|.:.\0 «fs ve ewes 

PRAM QUSE pia'e sien s see Seetoes us are ADS ew Liccmeles oe Venison, L. Saddle....... Me mee 

LANPTESEs Vo tataee dak sa sss cane ve chan Cay eh Faber ot AN and. Loge... fins san > se 

LG DSGTA Sian alan ah te ve ateere es sed FPS pd COMIN Bite oe a Whole. ston desk et ast eee ei er 

PAGCOR GION eC cts tg ane ae ae Oe DOS Aebicsid eis W O0dG0ek # iy? tou. Sone ee cee Pes. |. 5,1 ccn as eee 

- ELD ae wed aleln awa ce welts Lt) Baie) Sry Bicone RY ea yeh or? 7 lpn wks k Ce ae Welbii ae oat eee teen 
# POGNIEL “ics eh alors kets 4 Rae 

Muamelss io). 3s's0cnss 5 ae , DUSHOL oo bas cheers POULTRY, 

CPVSUOT EPRI. Tn cnn wine wens 2 CURES CTL cae iets CA DON ni. nels Seen eee a ne pes. 

POMPGRO 255 0c es Suiaiea vig ee aera SDE deine hi eaten Chickens, B., ts WR avicus Suen ie 

POren: és ues CiNisleee Saeed eben saad: ee leat eee ks ied IDS. secre ote ees, 3 

Pike or Pickerel, su vves «oss hae Peet eee a x Ro Bi Wieesares ne 
“fs Wall ’Biyed. s;.sr eRe yao oS BES, pasties ea Pha Pye + Winter......:. -eeewet a 

POSPIOSS ce ntecsieie Bp kos oa ee as Ducks, Mongrel...... einen s 

PEAWOS. ove Sacre APE hides PSS i Be eel Rae vk TaMme...s ss sean eae 3 

Red) SOs pVyertyaccun San avastetee ee elcCue ee Ducklings, 7..445<<9e0en ap oS i 

PMO J Oe ain a pasion onUseedb awn leh ost Peer Fowl cic aime te eee 1b8.} vis s}es os poe 

1 ny, EOE Vile vate eo Cus bee wk line eel arerenee Geese: 0555 nsec ene ee bea te Pes... Sie cheb 
Ce ASOBDODEG.35 cobs wane ta 0 les acters ft sMonprets 2”. adnate eater a 
in AR RORDO ioc avg dota’ ne eve elena )}s's «atone eens Goslings .sccuks.: Sey yee ee ae ie 
OTT ROOb:.) xe due ca eueee reels SehocEle see Guinea Fowl...... + spe eee * 
Scallops...... a nina sie Shek oe's a C41 MRIs we hc ad rare Peacock <0". Sa-i aa a civ ene ‘ 
Shad .5.....0es seh dp ebaaea ne Med DOM ICe rilees Onna Pulleta’=35. Re ye 





ABD a8 A i oS St al Oe OT 23. 


MODEL MARKET LIST. —ConrtinvueEp. 





Recd Vee Need Recd oe a| Need 




















POULTRY—continued. PPatOn PR UAIDOOTN Pr accicse scree s IDSs. cc elss vcleece 
Pigeons, Stall Fed. seeeseeeeees DOS: eesleceeteees peat LIOIRWATOssac-, c'eeloe vee se RE ee Met 
Oa rae yas kaa w see valor’ lee ealecesefes ois MP ORIQUBG? owen cae |e estes baht eo 
PECTS Oo ses ys re ECE USS Be Bn Pe SSS EG SRS SO a gare ae Pert Oa Pari 

$f PE en er onlatiagie| les sales cote o os EMMONS see ook eel lace bles aclewe © 

ae BOG ae cioete rae vee viet clea alivee ives RET OOIE Meats lc cs o's clein ob DOR clea s1oes sho diee 
eer. wee suds pevsck (sss <tove<|uaie ofs + esi Buckleberries....... 5 BACOCE! a8 Bee ad pee Pee 
TG te aw ine cg talc an one 640 sen 04 +1e es shied sles cis TPOTUONE once 9 4 « maistareiets sao e's DOR eka la oon bate Oe 
Melon, Water....... erein a eats easel sv es [idee at erate = 
FRUITS. = NEUSE. Gc 5 yoo ee 6's 6% a “ee thal, Bt ES ae = 
RS on tah a 6b som ccs, DCS-bs cule o's sae + s|| Woctarines’,...... Rmiriatstetaiie aiatemtcon Rie'y Vit ac hace es 
HO DIOR. o4 ix «o's Ae ete ed siete Gian te os «lore oft OPANRES. Coa. coe bach as o'eis'e fsx 2a ee Mock Be 
MRO ear cai say puses lec calewss|oes si} POaCheS, ...... Wem aeatstees cr te cia! tela | ee ete oc 
STEN ete Fs gain viece of LUSih Sac ic ante ie el} POQTS. cs cv ecees eeiethive ss elpretalatec tec) od SAC oun baie eet 
Dine perries.....<..00..+-+..Quarts|....|....|...-|| Pineapples...... SOA CR LS ene Con Ps ee? 
ee cia cceese.s 64 LUS-1.6 soln as sles os Pe CUR Caers siacse e's o's seis eee: (esos toes sloo es 
Chestnuts...... Ay ee Len Fee! CASA Aeon Pomegranates........ Ahoy 2 Per. 9 oak) Papi Wen re panice a 
IC MOOR II og fy stk fs ctslee leo et) QUINCES.. 2... ce cece ccecnseiens Ell ete Fe Fee = 
OT or te ere squarts|..+.J.+es/..-- Raspberries...... seeeeee sees quarts Ath VE Bo = 
GOOSEDEITIES ...scccccccccece Pee are ae HOLE WDOLTION c's dcc.cece Ceeuss athens (Stee ad ere o's 











MISCELLANEOUS. 

















Recd ae Need Recd|,O" , Need: 
Ne CS . S”SCd YY OOO e 8 © eee eeeeeeooe eee twee ot TE 
POS SSS ees SHES SOHHHSECHHHSSCHHSHHSOHSHH|, pc ele eeeiscnc eeereeseseoescon Cece eeereeeeseseee|s ees sees Leste 
*COSSCHHOHSSHOHOHS Coe eeSFH el OF: 2ESHLOS leevneleenersisee0c Oe . 
CCHSHHSHHTHHEHHHSEHHHHHHH - SHOHSHHHEHMl, ee vioeeeieeees saeeeeeeeesorseoooe eer eeeeeeeeeeeseve{sees(seeejoreae 
CHT FOSHOHEEHSHOHHEHSSHHEHHHHOHHHHHSEHHHMleeeolocesiereon COC CHHCHC SEES SHO LESSEE OHS SESH EH OCHOH eA Oo s/s aoe oe 
Rislelgiclele eae cecnoseetscoccsesesevcece eeeeleceeieave eceoeveeeoeenes ee OS 288 ©FCVSSHEHSSHAOSHE SHELF je eer ir eeeloe & 
CoC S SHHHCHSHHHHHSHSHHHEHSHSHHHSHHOAHEHHE EE], ge ojoeeeoei{ere+|/| cove Cocos eeeseeeeeeesees Seesetsoeserleser see siseee 
POHSSSHOHHEHSSHHOHSHSHHSHHHHSHEHHSHOHSE EH seo eeloeosoio oo eeoeeereves CCHS SOS OCHOHS CESS SE HOHO2H8 GS ele ee re /seeeJ/oe%0 
Coeeeee OSG SHHLEHSCEHHEHHHES SCHSEHE Hse eeleeoevicoes COSC Corer gee eeeeeeF eZee seseereee/seaes/sezeeieeese 
COSCO HCHSHSHEHOSHEHSHSHHOHHHOHOHHSOHHSGOS/s. ee cloeesleoee COCSCHSOHEOSEHHOHSSOHRECOSHSOHHOHSP OH EF OHe se eelseoeei(s aoe 
*+@O@SeceeceeeSeSGeoeeseSSeeSeSeeeeseeteiseeviceeeticeoes e@eoeeeereeseeoeeeoeeveeed @aeeeeovevee esis eerei/seoeevi/eoee 
POS SOSHSSHSHSOHHHSSHHOHSECHESHSHSHHSHOHSHHOHEESE*/eneelenesrsooore eoeoeeaneeeceeeoeeSOeseeeeeeseere @oeerlecevlseon eee 
POHSSHSHSHS SESS SHEHHSSHHSHHHSHSEHSHHHSEHHOS/s. ee eleeeveleoee CCHOHCHOHCHCHLCCEEEOTS CELL A2EHF FH FHF OO|- ce js eeosseoes 
COSSHCHESOHSSHOHHHSESHES CHHHCHHHHEHEEEleeseelesersisers CCOCHSCE CEES CHOHOHHFOLESEHSEHHEEED Flee eeireerienee 
CHOHSSSOSSEOHCHHSHOOCHOHEOHHOS LCeeFEeSeloeHe|! aer*ienne CROSS HHHSHOHOEHSHOHHESS OSE SHE SOSH HHHEHMH| see siereesioes &- 
COSHH SHSSHEHSEFSOHHSHOSHSHEHHSOCHHS* SHS seeiseesoisaeer|] oe CORDS SHSHOHEHEHSTOHOSSHFSOHOHOHEHHOHEOH EEE -}eeee/seeesis00 e 
CHOSSHCHECHHEH-~-SHOHTEHHSHSHSHHSHHHRHSSHHESEE/cee eI icees/e00 CHOOCHCHOHCHOEESHSEOSESHEOSHS HSH SEAOHOHEHESE|F oes ce esire0e 
SCOSSHSHSSHSSHEHSHSSHEHEHHSHHOHHSHHOSOSHHHSOESSE!/-geojeeeelece CHOSSOHHOHSSHHSHSEHHEOHHSEHHHESHSHHOHOHSSO/F ee e/s oe rH)e80@ 


@eeeeeee ee eeeoeeeeee Se SOG GSO GG efleeeeieseevieeee eeeeeeeeseoeeeeoeeeeeeeseSeeeseeeeteeeesiseeae e@ervfesee 


EE I SL PP TI YE EE ET NET POET OP EI EO EE TE TIA FID IE TEI 9 NS IEE A a TOR FEE AR EBEEE ENED DL ES POTEET EERO ag |b ER 





wire 


=i 





BILLS OF FARE. 


The bills of fare are classed as follows: Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Buffet or standing 
suppers, Collations, Hunting parties, Garden parties served Ambigu, sit down suppers and dancing 
parties including the refreshments and supper. 

These bills of fare are numbered according to articles and not to pages and every recipe in 
the book will be found in the Bills of Fare, thus forming a double index, as the table of contents 
at the end of the book is more conveniently classed by pages. 

The breakfast bills of fare include more than one hundred different ways of preparing eggs, 
fish, minces, chopped meats, broils and sweet dishes. 


The luncheons are composed of crustaceans, small entrées, poultry, game, hot entremets 
and desserts. 

The dinners are composed of American, English, Russian and French service: Buffets of the 
greatest variety and manifold ways of serving them. 

At the end of the book is placed a collection of choice bills of fare served by the house of 
Delmonico, between the years 1862 to 1893. 


















































LIGHT BREAKFAST OF COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, TEA. 


Crescents (3414) Muffins (3421) 

Biscuit, plain or with cinnamon } 15307) ere ae (3282) 

Brioches (3269) Small flutes, finger-rolls (8419) 
Couques (3277) Flutes or French rolls (3420) 

Corn bread (3422) Small rolls, with butter (3420) 

Buns, English and Hot Cross (8270) Toast dry, buttered (8283) 

Flutes of brioches (3268) Toast dipped in milk or cream (3283) 


Grissini with sugar and with butter } ae 


GRIDDLE CAKES. 


Buckwheat cakes (with compressed yeast) (3272) Flannel cakes (3273) 
Indian cakes (8274) Rice cakes (3275) 
Wheat cakes (8276) Polish Blinis (8281) 
COOKED CEREALS. 
Hominy (8280) | Oatmeal (8280) Polenta wheaten grits (8280) 
| BREADS. 
Jocko (8416) ~ Crown (8415) Graham (8428) Rye (3423) 


American bread (3417) 
Pulled bread, bread crumbs pulled out and browned in the oven. 
Assorted fruits (3699) Oranges (3699) Grape fruit (8699) 
Boiled eggs (2856) Fresh butter (775) 


26 THE EPICUREAN. 
1 JANVIER. 2 FEVRIER. 
DEJEUNER, 12 COUVERTS. DEJEUNER, 10 COUVERTS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Chablis Huitres (803) Graves Huitres (803) 


Madére Sec _— Poitrine d’oie fumée (822) 
Radis (808) Olives (800) 
Redsnapper mariné (832) 


Perches a la Polonaise (1208) 


Vin de Moselle Croquettes de pommes de 
terre en surprise (2782) 


Sherry Fruits en ravier (798) 
Saucisson a l’ail (818). 
Homard a la Boulognaise (794) 


CEufs des gourmets. (2950) 


: Hochheimer lose a4 la Evers garnie de 
Noisettes de filet de mouton ; : ; 
glacées (1610) coquilles d’cufs d’alose 


pablo (1252) 
Fedelini Cardinal (2958) ’ Goujons frits au beurre (1163) 


Sage eas Montesquieu Mignons de. filet de bouf 


Chéron (1401) 


Beaune Tomates grillées sauce mayon- 
naise chaude (2838) Musigny Poulet sauté Chasseur (1908) 
(ufs moulés en caisses au foie pa ent : pee: 
gras (2877) Salade Italienne (26385) 
Pontet Canet Perdreaux rotis piqués au jus St. Emilion Canvasback grillés (Canards. 
garnis de cresson (2102) sauvages) (2054) 
Salade de mache (2669) Salade de céleri (2660) 
Fruits (8699) Fromage (8697) Gateau d’amandes (8225) 
Alicante Compotes (3686) Malaga Fromage (3697) 
Salade d’oranges (3690) Fruits (8699) 
Café (3701) Liqueurs Café (3701) 


=—$ cro 


3 MARS. A. AVRIL. 
DEJEUNER, 24 COUVERTS. DEJEUNER, 18 COUVERTS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Crabes @’huitres marinés (805) Huitres (803) 
Canapés de langues (777) Chablis Harengs marinés (787) 
Sauterne Saucisson de Lyon (818) (Eufs de vanneau (784) 
Maquereaux fumés (798) Caviar (778). 
Pompano Macédoine (1223) Omelette aux foies de volaille 
Pommes Dauphine (2783) : : (2884) 
Niersteiner _—_‘Truites a l’Hoteliére (1292) 
Céote-Rétie Tournedos de filet de boeuf La- Concombres (2661) 


guipierre (1434) 1 Yon des eee 

oe i ournedos de filet de boeuf 
Petits pois & l Anglaise (2742) Flavignan (1432) 
Poulet sauté Diva (1886) Lazagnettes 4 la Philadelphie 
Pointes d’asperges & la Main- (2957) 


tenon (2695). 
eS) Pontet-Canet Cotelettes de pigeonneau Sig- 


Cufs pochés & la Bourguig- nora (2269) 
nonne (2926) Pointes d’asperges au fromage 
Léoville Faisan truffé réti (2110) fe 
Salade de laitue (2672) Chambertin Sarcelles grillées (2067). 
St. Honoré @ la Sultane (8261) CS en 
Porto Compotes (3686) Gateaux aux fraises (3262), 
Fromage (3697) Fruits (3699) Dessert 


Liqueurs Café (8701) Liqueurs Café (3701) 


BILLS OF FARE. Re 


5 f MAIL 
DEJEUNER, 16 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
Sherry Olives Croissants (800) 


Mortadelle (818) 

Sardines (817) 

Canapés de harengs a la Russe 
(777) 


Consommé tapioca (316) 


Haut Maquereau Espagnol farci garni 
Sauterne de groseilles vertes (1199) 


Cotelettes d’agneau Gavardi 
(1675) 
Pommes Gastronome (2789) 
Filets de poulet a la Mexicaine 
. (1859) 
Petits pois a l’Anglaise (2742) 


Asperges chaudes & la vinai- 
grette (2692) 


Cufs brouillés en bordure de 
risot aux foies de canards 
(2938) 


Nuits Canetons grillés mayonnaise 
vertes aux fines herbes (1938) 
Salade de laitue (2672) 


Tartelettes aux fruits variés 
(3387) 


Fromage (3697) Fruits (8699) 
Café (3701) 


Champagne 


Tiqueurs 


a a 


f JUILLET. 
DEJEUNER, 12 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
- Lucines (808) 
Concombres en filets (783) 
Harengs saurs (788) 


Graves 


Haricots verts marinés (824) 
Oranges a la Russe (3613) 


Yarcobrunner Kingfish 4 la Sultane (1185) 
Pommes Viennoise (2812) 


Ris d’agneau Joinville (1761) 
Mais sauté au beurre (2731) 


Homard 4 la Bordelaise (1025) 
(ufs durs 4 la Bennett (2858) 


Chateau 
Larose 


Alouettes grillées (2082) 
Salade de romaine (2675) 


Bordure de riz aux bananes 
(3005) 

Fruits (3699) 

Fromage (3697) 


Liqueurs Café glacé (8609) 


6 JUIN. 
DEJEUNER, 10 COUVERTS. 


MENU. 


Lucines (803) 
Radis (808) 
Beurre (775) 
Olives (800) 


Tranches de saumon grillées 
sauce Béarnaise (1244) 


Grenadins de filet de boeuf 
Beaumarchais (1385) 


Pommes de terre Long Branch 
(2793) 


Cotelettes de pigeonneaux Lau- 
riston (2265) 

Champignons a la _ Rivera 
(2758) 


Cufs frits 4 la Eugéne André 
(2866) 


Poulet grillé au jus (1831) 
Salade de romaine (2675) 


Beignets de cerises fraiches 
(3042) 


Niersteiner 


Champagne 


Chateau 
Lagrange 


Liqueurs 


Fruits (3699) 
Fromage (3697) 
Café (8701) 





8 AOUT. 
DEJEUNER, 18 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
Xérds Piments verts (806) 


Avocats (771) 
Olives Espagnoles (800) 
Acharts aux fines herbes (792) 


Omelette aux truffes (2908) 


Liebfraumilch Weakfish 4la Pontigny (1309) 
Concombres a |’ Anglaise (2661). 


Filets de poulet ala Valengay 
(1855) 


Macaroni 4 la mode de Naples 
(2960) 


Grenadins de filet de veau aux 
tomates a l’ Argentine (1507). 


Pommes de terre aux truffes 
émincées (2813) 
Canetons grillés (1938) 


Salade de cresson aux pommes 
d’arbres (2676) 


Flan d’abricots (8170) 
Poncire 4 la Madison (3612) 


Fromage (3697) 
Fruits (3699) 
Café a la Turque (3702) 


Champagne 


Chateau 
Léoville 


Liqueurs 


Lafaurie 


St. Pierre 


Haut Brion 


Liqueurs 


Reltinger 


St. Hstéphe 


Champagne 


Liqueurs 


THE EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBRE. 
DEJEUNER, 22 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Absinthe, Vermouth, Kiimmel. 


Concombres marinés (785) 
Canapés d’esturgeon (777) 
Choux fleurs marinés (776) 
Paupiettes de harengs 4 la 


Polonaise (789) 


Stanley (1406) 


Purée de pois verts (2742) 
Cételettes de pigeonneaux Pro- 


vengale (2268) 


Cufs au miroir 4 la Tivolier 


(2855) 


de cresson (2102) 
Salade d’escarole (2671) 


Petites meringues Italiennes au - 


café (8394) 


Fruits (8699) 
Fromage (3697) 


Café (8701) 





NOVEMBRE. 
DEJEUNER, 8 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 


Hermitage 


(blanc) Huitres et citrons (803) 


Cerneaux confits (833) 
Saumon fumé (822) 


et olives (1289) 


Pommes de terre grillées 4 la 


chapelure (2776) 


creme (1724) 


Nouilles sautées au beurre 


(2972) 


Pain d’écrevisses Chartreuse 


(2305) 


(Zufs sur le plat Condé (2912) 


Salade de céleri (2660) 


Pouding souffié Saxonne (8107) 


Fruits (3699) 
Fromage (3697) 


Café (3701) 


Kingfish Montgolfier (1183) 
Salade de concombres (2661) 


Mignons de filet de boouf a la 


Perdreaux rétis au jus garnis 


Petit Esturgeon aux quenelles 


Filets mignons d’agneau sauce 


Outarde en daube (1944) 


10 


OCTOBRE. 


DEJEUNER, 14 COUVERTS. 


Graves 


Moselle 


Beaune 


Champagne 


Liqueurs 


12 


MENU. 
Huitres (803) 


Cerneaux frais (884) 
Choux rouges (776) 
Maquereaux &@ l’huile (797) 


Omelette physiologique (2904) 


Pompano a la Toulouse (1227) 

Pommes de terre Gastronome 
(2789) 

Cotelettes de chevreuil Buri- 
dan (2170) 

Petits pois 4 la Francaise (2743) 


Poulets sautés 4a la Dodds 
(1887) 


Escargots au beurre de Pro- 
vence (1016) 

Rales a la Mareille (2150) 

Salade de laitue (2672) 


Glace parfait au nougat (8478) 


Confitures de groseilles de Bar 
(8678) 


Fromage (3697) 
Café (8701) 


——— nn SEG 


DECEMBRE. 


DEJEUNER, 8 COUVERTS. 


Montrachet 


Piesporter 


Rauzan 


Tiqueurs 


MENU. 
Huitres (808) 


Saumon fumé (822) 
Alose marinée (787) 


Tranches de saumon grillées 
sauce Béarnaise (1244) 
Pommes Marquise (2797) 


Tournedos de filet de boeuf aux 
raisins (1489) 


Petits pois Ménagére (2744) 
Lapereau a la Thieblin (2188) 


Chaudfroid de jeunes pintades 
(2458) 


Cufs brouillés aux truffes du 
Périgord (2947) 


Ruddy ducks grillés (2066) 
Salade de laitue (2672) 


Amandes salées (3696) 
Fruits sees (8699) 
Compotes (3686) 


Café (3701) 





BILLS OF FARE. 29 


JANUARY—BREAKFAST. 


13 

Oysters with lemon (803) 

Eggs on a dish with cépes (2922) 
Broiled fresh codfish with bacon (1138) 
Calf’s head vinaigrette (1519) 

Hashed pheasant (2299) 

Porterhouse steak 4 la Sanford (1363) 
Saratoga potatoes (2803) 

Pélerine tartlets (3335) 

Dessert 


14 


Marinated tunny fish (831) 

Omelet, German style (2891) 

Grouper 4 la Franklyn (1162) 

Corned beef hash, American style (2291) 
Chicken leg cutlets with olives (1875) 
Mutton chops plain (1590) 

Dauphine potatoes (2783) 

Fruits (3699) 


15 
Eggs on a dish ala Bercy (2910) 


Chicken halibut with carrots (1178) 
Spinal marrow of veal, Villeroi (1549) 
Stewed mutton kidneys a la Burtel (1616) 
Chateaubriand Colbert sauce (1381) 
Anna potatoes (2770) 

Mars cake (3318) 

Fruits (8699) 


Anchovy salad (772) 

Eggs Russian style (2865) 

Fresh herring paupiettes with milts (1176) 
Duck giblets, housekeeper’s style (1927) 
Edible snails, Bourguignonne (1015) 

Veal cutlets 4 la Seymour (1497) 
Demi-glace potatoes (2784) 

Triumvirat fritters (8050) 


a eer nr OO 


17 
Bouillabaisse a la Marengo (1123) 


Scrambled eggs with mushrooms (2942) 
Oxtail chipolata (1321) 

Fried artichoke bottoms (2683) 

Broiled chicken a la Delisle (1828) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 

Light pancakes with preserves (8079) 


Dessert 


19 

Palmettes Perrier (922) , 
Poached eggs with spinach (2933) 
Lobster, Dugléré (1031) 


Shoulder of mutton marinated with cream 


sauce (1651) 
Fried asparagus tips 4 la Miranda (2696) 
Aspic of foies gras (small) (2412) 
Broiled partridge, English style (2085) 
Cheese (3697) 


Soft eggs chipolata (2949) 

Fried frostfish (1160) 

Slices of mutton purée of beans (1635) 
Pork cutlets with fine herbs (1780) 
Potato and beetroot salad (2652) 
Broiled squab, Colbert sauce (20138) 
Compote (8686) 

Coffee (3701) 


a LG 


Marinated smelts (821) 

Poached eggs Villeroi (2928) 

Lamb’s trotters 4 la Bordelaise (1766) 

Turtle stew a la Foster (10938) 

Lentils with bacon (2750) 

Roasted tenderioin of pork with gravy 
(1817) 

Apples, Portuguese style (2998) 

Stewed fruits (8686) 


30 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANUARY—BREAKFAST. 


21 22 

Anchovy salad (7'72)- a. Radishes (808) 

Olives (800) 

Crabs, Carolina style (1003) | 
Gosling stewed with turnips (1954) _ 


Neck of lamb with cabbage (1729) 


Ham omelet with green peas (2893) 
Small green turtle baked (1092) 
Sheep’s trotters a la poulette (1659) 


Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) . Oyster plant poulette (2817) 

Squabs in earthenware saucepan (2018) Pork tenderloins, Printanidre (1813) 
Water-cress salad with apples (2676) | " Oélestine omelet with whipped cream 
Dessert | (3057) 


1 SSS ae Re eae ENR OUTER ITSTNNTRTIREGESINESS SN 


23 24 
Boiled eggs (2856) | Canapés of anchovies (777) 


sauce (1195) 


Saar braih ee heen) Tenderloin of beef pudding with oysters 


Hashed young rabbit (2303) (2322) 
Celery stalks with velouté sauce (2721) Smothered red beans (2700) 
Truffied pigs’ feet, Périgord sauce (1786) Tripe, Lyonnese style (1475) 


Broiled quail (21381) 
Rum omelet (8059) 
Rouen mirlitons (83238) 


——— Onn rr 


Bavarois with meringues (3133) 


Dessert 


25 26 

Marinated tunny fish (831) Oysters (808) 

‘Soft clams on skewers (999) Omelet a la Andrews (2898) 

Cucumber salad (2661) err ee of pork 4 la minute 
Stewed lamb, Parisian style (1756) Lambs’ tails, Conti (1763) 

Trévise tomatoes (2836) String beans a la Pettit (2827) 

Pork cutlets, Aurora (1'776) Edible snails 4 la Saintonge (1014) 
‘Omelet with russet apples (3071) Parisian cakes (8821) 

Dessert Dessert 





i— 
Py 
Shad, Irish style, garnished with croquettes Olives (800) 

(1254) Westphalian ham (786) 

Rissoles of mushrooms with marrow (958) Spotted fish with court bouillon, Calcutta 
Neck of veal au blane (1588) (1287) | 
Potatoes & la Bignon (2773) Fried oxtails (1828) 
Lambs’ tongues with olives (1765) ; Stuffed mushrooms in cases (2762) 
Baked stuffed eggplants (2738) Green turtle, Havana style (1091) 

tum omelet (3059) Eggs with cream, meringued (8032) 


Dessert Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 31 


FEBRUARY—BREAKFAST. 
29 30 
Caviare canapés (777) 
Bonvalet omelet (2882) 
Codfish tongues with chopped sauce (1141) 
Truffled pigs’ feet (1785) 
Kernel of veal with thickened gravy (1521) 
German salad with crofitons (2664) 
Broiled ptarmigan (2071) 
Dessert 


Bouillabaisse Parisian (1124) 

Eggs on a dish, Bienvenue (2911) 

Pork cutlets with mashed potatoes (1782) 
Poulpetonniére pigeons (2221) 

Broiled bear steak (2046) 

Pont-Neuf potatoes (2800) 

Stewed or compoted fruits (3686) 

Coffee (3701) 























31 


Oysters and lemons (803) Westphalian ham (786) 


Eggs miroir a la Provencal (2854) Bertini omelet (2881) 
Chicken halibut baked with Parmesan (1172) 
Blanquette of breast of veal 4 la Jacquart (1490) 
Sauerkraut garnished (2819)! 

Beefsteak with fine herbs (1374) 

Celery salad (2661). 


Preserved large white currants (3678) 


Salt herring with mashed potatoes (1177) 
Lamb carbonade a la Rambuteau (1667) 
Broiled pullet, tartar sauce (1991) 

Cream of biscuits with kirsch (3011) 
Cheese (3697) 


Dessert 


k 
33 
Matelote 4 la mariniére, St. Mandé (1201) 
Scrambled eggs with fine herbs (2939) 
Lambs’ trotters, Chantilly (1767) 
Hashed chicken, Ancient style (2292) 
Sarah potatoes (2802) 
Broiled teal duck (2067) 
Corn salad (2669) 
Souffiéd fritters with lemon peel (8048) 


34 
Chiffonade potatoes (807) 


Hard-boiled eggs, New York style (2864) 
Frostfish or whiting baked (1161) 

Lamb hash with bananas (2296) 
Potatoes a la Parmentier (2811) 

Rump steak a la Villageoise (1367) 
Apple tartlets (3327) 

Coffee (8701) 


35 | 

Quenelles of fish, Montglas (2330) 
Turkey giblets, salamander (2033) 
Beef hash, Sam Ward (2288) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Veal kidneys & l’Anderson (1524) 
Broiled ptarmigan (2071) 

Rum omelet (3059) 

Fruits (3699) 


36 
Scrambled eggs with tomatoes (2946) 


Minced leg of mutton a la Lyonnaise (163?) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 

Veal kidneys & la Roederer (1525) 

Pigs’ feet & la St. Menehould (1783) 
Mushrooms 4a la Raynal (2756) 

Apples with butter (2999) 


Dessert 


32 TYE EPICUREAN.. 


MARCH—BREAKFAST. 


37 2 38 

Oysters on the half shell (803) Eggs on a dish (2909) 

Eggs in cases & la Colbert (2874) Salt codfish, Spanish style (1142) 

Cisco fish, Castillane sauce (1184) Calf’s brains, Aurora (1479) 

Kernel of ham, Biarritz (1794) Frogs’ legs deviled (1020) 

Veal cutlets maitre-d’hétel (1501) Tournedos of beef, Victorin (1438) 

Dandelion salad (2670} Marshall potatoes (2796) 

Compote (8686) Apple fritters, Montagnard (8037) 

Coffee (3701) Dessert 
$$ rr 

39 40 

Fried anchovies (1249) Smoked beef (822) 

Eggs 4 la Gibson (2861) Plain omelet with cream (2886) 

Kingfish, Princelay (1184) Weakfish @ la Brighton (1308) 

Minced tenderloin of beef with potato cro- Jugged neck of mutton (1689) 


quettes (1398) 
Broiled chicken with tarragon gravy (1831) 


Endive salad (2671) 
Apple pie (3199) Pullet legs with new carrots (2005) 


Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) 


Lobster mayonnaise (2534) 
Dessert Quartered apple fritters (3041) 


en 5 


cat 42 

Spanish olives with anchovies (800) Shad marinated (787) 

Eggs on a dish a la Monaco (2916) Poached eggs a la Mirabeau (2927) 
Smoked herring with cream (1178) Matelote a la Talabasse (1202) 

Stewed lamb, Dugléré (1754) Sliced kernel of pork a& la Cavour (1795) 
Mussels mariniére (1046) Potato fritters (2788) 

Beefsteak Bordelaise with marrow (1871) Rib steak a la Bercy (1364) 

Duchess dariole cakes (3299) ; Omelet stuffed with strawberries (3068) 
Dessert Dessert 


43 4. 

Eggs miroir, Jockey Club (2851) , Anchovy salad (772) 

Lambs’ kidneys glazed (1702) Hard-boiled egg croquettes (2863) 
Baked beef palate, Chevreuse (1827) ) Breast of veal stew with roux (1491) 
Potatoes persillade (2774) | Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) 

Chicken leg» as cutlets with olives (1875) Sheep’s tongue, Neapolitan style (1658) 
Trévise tomatoes (2836) Potato shavings (2807) 

Lambs’ brains with mayonnaise (2446) Baked chicken in shells (2345) 


Dessert Fruits (3699) 


~ 


BILLS OF FARE. 3d 


APRIL—BREAKFAST, 


45 46 

Broiled sardines (1249) Anchovy salad (772) 

Omelet Desjardins (2887) Eggs on a dish, English style (2914) 
Fried gudgeons (1163) Lamprey 4 la Rabelais (1189) 

Rump of beef miroton (1344) Baked mashed potatoes (2798) 

Guinea fowl with sauerkraut (1958) Calf’s brains tomatoed, Béarnaise (1485) 
Mutton chops, Tavern style (1592) Sirloin steak, Ancient style (1878) 
Souffléd potatoes (2808) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2018) 
Strawberries and cream (3699) Rum omelet (3059) 


Or 


A7 48 
Arles sausage (818) Oysters and lemons (808) 


Scrambled eggs with tomato purée (2945) 
Smelts fried on skewers, tartar sauce (1269) 
Kernel of leg of mutton in papers (1631) 


Hard-boiled eggs 4 la Benoist (2859) 
Matelote of canotiers (1203) 


Calf’s brains 4 la poulette (1481) Broiled pig’s feet (1784) 

Broiled chicken with bacon, maitre-d’hétel Cabbage, peasant style (2706) 
(1830) Roasted wild squabs (2018) 

Apples with butter (2999) Provengal potatoes (2801) 


en 


4-9 50 

Marinated sardines (817) Oysters on the half shell (803) 

Eggs on a dish with tomatoes (2924) Omelet, Duxelle with fine herbs (2888) 
Salmon (salt) & la Bedlow (1247) Carp broiled and breaded maitre-d’hotel. 


(1130) 
Baked potatoes with cream (2780) 
Mutton kidneys on skewers (1618). 


Boiled: potatoes (2774) 
Flat sausages with tomato Soubise (1805) 


Broiled tenderloin, anchovy butter (1424) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831)}* 
Endive salad (2671) Lettuce salad (2672) 
Nougat of apricots, cake (3319) Apple charlotte (3008) 





ol 52 

Eggs molded in cocottes & la Bedford (2878) Spee aoe ee and marinated with: 

Lobsters 4 la Delmonico (1037) Ham and green pea omelet (2893) 

Veal cutlets a la Zingara (1498) Stuffed lambs’ trotters with tarragon 
gravy (1769) 


String beans 4 la Pettit (2827) ; 
Terrine of duck’s liver & l’Aquitaine (2596 Squabs a la Crapaudine (2007) 
sale es a A maa puieinesehT9) Sausages with truffles (1806) 


Roast squabs (2018) Cream with lemon peel in pots (8165) 
Cheese (3697) Croustades 4 la Castillane (895) 
Strawberry short cake (3262) Dessert 


34 THE EPICUREAN. 


MAY—BREAKFAST. 


53 — 6A 

Clams (803) Eggs a Aurora (2857) 

Spanish omelet (2907) Pompano a la Carondelet (1221) 
Salt codfish 4 la Villageoise (1144) Lamb stew, Irish style (1758) 
Turnips with Béchamel (2848) Macaroni, Parisian style (2961) 
Calf's brains with black butter (1484) Mussels baked with fine herbs (1050) 
Chicken pie a la Rigolo (2371) Minions of tenderloin of beef (1899) 
Terrine of larks (2601) Viennese potatoes (2812) 

Lettuce salad (2672) Hérisson tartlets (3333) 





55 56 

Stuffed clams (997) Canapés Brownson (853) 

Fried carp with parsley (1131) Porgies a la Manhattan (1229) 
Scrambled eggs with tomatoes and chives (2946) Boiled eggs (2856) 

Baked breast of lamb (1662) Smoked beef with cream (1358) 
Chicken pie (2554) | Lamb kidneys on skewers (1708) 
Veal kidneys with marrow (1526) Mashed potatoes in snow (2798) 
Potato and herring salad (2653) Roast squabs with water-cress (2018) 
Frangipane omelet (3058) Bermuda onion salad (2665) 


or o8 

Fried soft shell crabs (1006) Hot potato salad (2654) 

Scrambled eggs with Piedmont truffles (2948) Havanese omelet (2894) 

Matelote of carp, Miroir (1204) Stuffed carp a la Champenoise (1183) 
Hashed mutton a la Omer Pacha (2297) Paupiettes of tripe (1477) 

Potatoes in surprise (2809) Lamb’s head, vinaigrette sauce (1698) 
Broiled partridge, English style (2085) Small sirloin steak 4 la Bordelaise (1370) 
Cos lettuce salad (2675) Potato cakes with ham (2779) 

Francillon cake (3305) Pélerine tartlets (3335) 





59 60 

Cassolettes 4 la Montholon (861) Anchovy salad (772) 

Poached eggs & la Boéldieu (2925) ; Ham omelet with green peas (2893) - 
Shoulder of lamb with purée of celery (1753) Small green turtle baked (1092) 
Baked cauliflower a la Béchamel (2715) Sheep’s trotters 4 la poulette (1659) 
Calf’s brains, peasant style (1483) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) 
Cold asparagus, vinaigrette sauce (2692) } Roasted squabs (2018) 

Small Célestine omelet (3056) : Water-cress salad with apples (2676) 


Dessert . Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 35 


J UNE—BREAKFAST. 


61 62 
Omelet 4 la Andrews (2898) Shrimps with mushrooms and tomatoes, 
Bluefish, Havanese style (1118) Beamnatse (1081) 


Fried eggs with chopped parsley (2871) 
Angel fish 4 la Bahama, (1094) 
Calf’s lights 4 la Mariniére (1529) 


Calf’s brains in matelote (1482) 
Baked potatoes (2771) 


a cluladelphia'style (994) Minced lamb & la Rivera (1719) 

Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Cauliflower with fried breadcrumbs (2718) 
Watercress and apple salad (2676) Hamburg steak a la tartare (1361) 
Baskets filled with oranges (3570) Bordelaise potatoes, new (2775) 





63 64 
‘Shrimps in side dishes (819) Sweetbread canapés (857) 
[ae eggs or noodles 4 la Carolli Scrambled eggs with gravy (2940) 
Bluefish with mayonnaise and tarragon (1121) odtish cakes (1145) 
Paupiettes of fillet of mutton A la Delussan Oxtail, Alsatian style (1322) 
(1613) - ~~ Lamb cutlets, Maintenon (1678) 


Slices of round of veal with gravy (1547) 
Green peas a la Fleurette (2741) 

Broiled duckling with green mayonnaise (1988) 
Crescents of noodles with cherries (8015) 


Mussels stuffed, Toulousian (1049) 
Roast pullet with water cress (1996) 
Dampfnoodles with cream (3030) 


65 66 

Cucumber fillets salted, Russian style (783) Crusts a la Morton (904) 

Eggs on a dish, Creole style (2913) Omelet with caviare a la Stoeckel (2902) 

Blackfish a la Orly (1114) Sea bass with almond butter (1100) 

Tendon of veal a la Bayeux (1581) cep Be sadaye menierens ea 

Kidneys of lamb, stewed with Madeira and Kohl-rabies, housekeeper’s style (2708) 
pehroowis (1704) Broiled chicken with bacon maitre-d’hotel 

Broiled squabs a la Crapaudine (2007) (1830) 

Potatoes sautéd with artichoke bottoms and Slices of fillet of veal, Pélerine potatoes 
truffles (2805) 3 ss (1514) 


Cream pie (3201) 


Border of rice with bananas (8005) -- . 





67 | | 68 : 
Anchovy salad (772) | | Tunny marinated (831) _ vo 
Perch. Polish style (1208) © ae Onion and ham omelet (2900) 

Mashed potatoes in snow (2798) Aus | Turkey wings with turnips (2043) 

‘Squab cutlets in papers (2270) : Green peas, French style (2743) 

Stuffed tomatoes, Provengal (2835) a . Baked tripe with parmesan cheese (1474) 
Asparagus tips ala Miranda (2696) Artichoke bottoms a la Mornay (2680) 


a ee 


Fresh cherry fritters (3042). Crusts with Madeira (8026) 
Dessert . ie - Dessert Cr. | 


36 THE EPICUREAN. 


69 

Marinated sardines (817) 

Cheese omelet (2883) 

Pompano a la Duclair (1222) 
Anna potatoes (2770) 

Sausages with white wine (1807) 
Mussels a la poulette (1047) 


Duckling, green mayonnaise with fine herbs 


(1938) 
Columbia tartlets (8330) 


JULY. -BREAKFAST. 
FA; 


Hard-boiled eggs & la Washburn (2862) 
Porgy paupiettes, Hindostan (1280) 
Lamb hash, Creole style (2295) 
Chicken legs 4 la Saulniére (1878) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 

Sirloin steak, ancient style (1878) 
Genoese cake merigued (3308) 


Dessert 





ral 

Radishes (808) 

Molded fresh butter ('7'75) 

Fried eggs with brown butter (2870) 
Blackfish 4 la Sanford (1115) 


Rump of beef, mirotons 4 la ménagére (1844) 


Purée of Jerusalem artichokes (704) 
Lamb salad 4 la Somer (2637) 
Chicken legs in papers (1876) 
Casino cakes (3298) 


73 

Fried shrimps (1080) 

Eggs on a dish, Fermiére (2915) 
Brandade of salt codfish (1146) 
Lambs’ crows, ravigote sauce (1668) 


Ribs of beef, old style (1882) 
Tomatoes & la Boquillon (28388) 
Fruits a la Creole (8051) 
Dessert 


75 

Varenskis polonaise (993) 

Shad with sorrel purée (1256) 
Eggs au miroir a la Lully (2852) 
Lamb stew, Navarin (1755) 
Beef and tomato salad (2628) 


Baked hash of chicken (2298) 
Barigoule artichokes (2689) 
Printanier boats (cakes) (8291) 


Scrambled eggs with lobster garnished 
with Villeroi mussels (2941) 


Baked kingfish (1186) 
Noisettes of mutton with cooked fine herbs 
(1612) 


Veal kidneys with white wine (1527) 
Beef, Chateaubriand maitre d’hotel (1382) 
Sarah potatoes (2802) 

Mirabeau rice (8218) 

Dessert 


Caviare canapés (777) 

Green omelet with fine herbs (2892) 
Deviled bluefish (1119) 

Clam pancakes or fritters (996) 

Calf’s brains & la Chassaigne (1480) 
Mutton tendons with mushrooms (1656) 
Roasted squab with watercress (2018) 
Small babas with rum (8288) 


Poached eggs with spinach (2933) 

Pike perch a la Financiére (1214) 

Breast of lamb with velouté tomato sauce 
(1665) 

White bean salad (2658) 

Sausages Gastronome (1802) 

Spare ribs, Parisian style (1808) 

Risot 4 la Ristori (2980) 

Fruits (3699) 


BILLS OF FARE. 37 


AUGUST—BREAKFAST. 


“e 78 
Parsley omelet (2908) - Canapés of herring, Russian style (777) 
Butterfish marinated and fried (1127) Eggs au miroir ala Meyerbeer (2853) 


Kingfish on the dish (1187) 
Calf’s liver 4 la Claremont (1580) 
Plain boiled potatoes (2774) 
Broiled squabs (20138) 


Madeira crusts (8026) 
Dessert Dessert 


Sausages with tomato Soubise sauce (1805) 
Potted pigeons (1965) 

Sliced leg of lamb & la Dordogne (1710) 
Cream potatoes baked (2781) 





79 80 

Fried eggs a la sole (2869) Celery vinaigrette (779) 

Fresh mackerel in papers, Mephisto (1192) Eggs on a dish, Venetian style (2920) 

Stewed lamb with turnips (1759) Bonito & la Godivier (1122) 

Calf’s liver and bacon (1531) Tournedos of beef, Talabasse (1437) 

Provengal potatoes (2801) Potatoes, omelet shape (2806) 

Venison fillets 4 la Lorenzo (2177) Broiled reedbirds (2151) 

D’Artois cake with apricot marmalade (8302) _ Condé cakes (8297) 

Dessert Dessert 

+ «es 

81 g2 

Lobster canapés (777) Omelet with clams (2885) 

Scrambled eggs 4 la Duxelle with anchovy Porgy with Chablis wine (1231) 
croustade (2935) Tripe with cooked fine herbs (1478) 

Salt codfish, Faraday crowns (1147) Lamb fries, tomato sauce (1696) 


Minions of veal purée of artichokes (1509) 
Lamb hash 4a la Célestine, baked (2294) 
Broiled chicken with tarragon gravy (1831) Bote aa ieiycto 0) 

Eggplant salad, Provencal (2663) : Valentine cake with rum (3265) - 
Gooseberry tart (8309) Dessert . 


Baked cream potatoes (2780) 





83 st 
Salmon quenelles stuffed (2335) Anchovy butter canapés (777) 
Tenderloin of beef with Madeira half glaze Shrimp omelet (2906) 
(1425) Pike perch a la Géraldin (1215) 
Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Noisettes of tenderloin 4 la Berthier (1411) 


Frog’s legs & la d’Antin (1017) 

Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) 
Omelet stuffed with preserves (glazed) (8067) 
Cheese (3697) 

Fruits (8699) Dessert 


Chicken quenelles 4 la Drew (2826) 
Broiled duckling (1938) 
Gooseberry tart (8309) 


38 PIK EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBER—BREAKFAST. 


85 


Broiled eels, tartar sauce (1150) 

Omelet with mushrooms (2899) 

Hashed tenderloin of beef, Sheppler (2289) 
Chipolata sausages (1801) 

Partridge a la Baudrimont (2093) 

Italian salad (2635) 


Hollandaise potatoes with melted butter (2790) 


Gooseberry flawn (3173) 


86 


Blackfish 4 la Villaret (1116) 

Scrambled eggs 4 la Columbus (2934) 
Yearling lamb cutlets in crépinette (1691) 
Veal, minced Sicilian style (1544) 

Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) 
Beefsteak @ la Périgueux (1376) 

Baked Biarritz potatoes (2772) 


Pancakes with orange-flower water (8078) 





S87 


Sardine canapés (777) . 
Fried eggs with ham or bacon (2872) 
Buffalo fish, cream sauce (1126) 
Marshal potatoes (2796) 

Partridge with olives (2103) 


Slices of fillet of mutton maitre-d’hétel (1614) 


Peeled tomato salad (2666) 
Pumpkin pie (8203) 


a 
89 
Oysters on half shell (803) 
Small trout marinated in wine (829) 
Eggs on a dish, Omer Pacha (2917) 
Lafayette fish breaded, English style (1188) 
Turkey giblets, peasant style (2034) 
Calf’s brains crépinettes (2244) 
Julienne potatoes (2792) 
Peach with rice tartlets (3334) 


Shrimps in side dishes (819) 

Omelet. with sausages (2905) » 
Picked-up codfish with cream (1148) — 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 

Venison cutlets deviled (2173) 

Cépes, Provengal style (2723) 

Broiled plovers (2118) 

Vanilia Chantilly éclairs (3304) 





Shrimp canapés (777) 

Argentine omelet (2878) 

Bluefish in papers (1120) 

Stewed lamb, Peruvian style (1757) 


Partridge with sauerkraut (2104) 


Spare ribs, Parisian style (1808) 
Potato salad (2654) 
Semolina croquettes, pistachio sauce (3019) 





Eggs cocottes (2873) 
Shoulder of mutton with turnips (1654) 
Black blood pudding (1772) 


Gosling sautéd with tomatoes, Robert sauce 


(1953) 
Baked noodles (2971) 
Minced venison (2184) 
Broiled grouse (2071) 
Dessert 


Poached eggs, matelote (2930) 


Mackerel, with white piquante sauce (1194) 
Tripe, Parisian style (1476) 

Venison hash, American style (2301) 
White beans, maitre-d’hétel (2701) 
Broiled reedbirds (2151) 

Fresh fruits (3699) 


Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 39 


~OCTOBER—BREAKFAST, 


2b ie | 94 

Spinal marrow 4 la Barnave (1548) Alligator pears (771). 

Omelet with fine herbs (2889) | Scrambled eggs a la Jérdme (2936) 

Redsnapper a la Chérot (1232) Pork chops, Castillane sauce (1778) 

Gastronome potatoes (2789) Lyonnese potatoes (2794) 

Pork cutlets half glaze and with apples (1777) Calf’s liver with fine herbs (1533) 

Scallops a la Mariniére (1076) Red cabbage salad (2659) 

Round steak with water-cress (1366) Cheese (3697) 

Cream cakes with whipped cream (8296) Coffee (8701) 
ET" 

95 96 


Fried shrimps (1080) 

Omelet with ham and green peas (2898) 
Kingfish 4 la Bordelaise (1181) 

Veal hash cakes, Brittany style (2300) 
Beetroot fritters with cream (2702) 
Yearling lamb cutlets (1669) 

Potatoes fried and channeled (2787) 
Coffee (3701) 


Windsor canapés (777) 

Omelet with kidneys, (2897) 

Buffalo fish, cream sauce (1126) 
Breast of pork with cabbage (1773) 
Calf’s liver, Italian style (1532) 
Roasted plovers (2119) 

Potatoes, housekeeper’s style (2791) 
Cannelons a la Célestine (8292) 





97 | 98 

Tongue canapés (777) Canapés with sliced salmon (777). 

Eggs on a dish with chopped ham (2923) . Fried eggs, Neapolitan style (2868) 
Fisherman’s Matelote (1205) i Mullet, D’Antin sauce (1206) 

Mutton kidneys a la Soubise (1617) Calf’s brains with Venetian sauce (1486) 
Broiled tripe, tartar sauce (1473) Pullet legs & la Bayonnaise (2003) 
Ruddy duck roasted (2066) Matton chops Soyer (1591) 

Creamed potatoes (2781) Proveneal potatoes (2801) 

Apricot cakes with cream of almonds (3287) | Biscuits in cases with cream (3289) 


an ee cee 


99 100 | 

Poached eggs with gravy (2981) Soft eggs for epicures (2950) 

Cupola of salt codfish, Biscaienne (2254) | Oyster patties (939) 

Lamb stewed with turnips (1759) Lamb minion fillet pudding a la Gladstone 


(2328) 


Broiled plovers (2118) 
String beans with butter (2829) 
Corned beef hash (2290) Salisbury steak (1359) 


Omelet souffié with preserves (3065) Mundane fritters (3044) 
Coffee (3701) Fruits (3699) 
Dessert Dessert 


40 THE EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBER—BREAKFAST. 


101 
Crawfish canapés (777) 


Omelet with frogs (2890) 
Fresh herring 4 la Calaisienne (1174) 


Pork cutlets, gherkin sauce (1781) 


Chicken legs, purée of Jerusalem artichokes 
(1877) 


Porterhouse steak (1362) 
Potato cakes (2778) 
Crescents with preserves (3298) 


102 


Oysters tartare (804) 

Eggs on a dish, Plumerey (2918) 

Red snapper a la Princess (1236) 

Hashed partridge Clémenceau style (2298) 
Kulash 4 la Finnoise (1318) 


Broiled chicken with bacon maitre-d’hotel 
(1830) 


Baked Biarritz potatoes (2772) 


D’Artois cake with apricot marmalade 
(3302) 





103 

Beets marinated (774) 

Soft eggs with purée of sorrel (2951) 
Maskinonge a la Providence (1207) 
Potato croquettes maisienne (2782) 
Beef palate 4 la Béchamel (1326) 
Minced partridge with rice (2091) 
Redhead duck roasted (2068) 
‘Goronfiot (8310) 


105 

Fried eels, tartar sauce (1150) 

Scrambled eggs with Swiss cheese (2944) 
Calf’s tails with cabbage (1580) 

Zampino, Modena style with string beans (1820) 
Mutton cutlets & la Bouchére (1598) 

Potatoes half glaze (2784) 

Broiled teal duck (2067) 

German pancake (8074) 


107 

Molded eggs in cases A l’Echiquier (2875) 
Pike perch a la Royale (1216) 

Breast of mutton (haricot) with turnips (1588) 
Jugged rabbit with blood (2141) 

Marinated pork tenderloin (1815) 

Celery salad (2660) 

Puff paste galette (3306) 

Stewed fruits (8686) 


104 


Anchovy canapés (777) | 

Omelet of beef palate (2880) 

Fresh mackerel, Bonnefoy (1191) 

Jugged venison (2180) 

Flat sausage broiled with tomato Soubise 
sauce (1805) 

Delmonico sirloin steak, plain (1375) 

Potato tartlets (2810) 

Marrow frangipane pie (3088) 


106 


Boiled perch, Valois sauce (1209) 
Omelet with smoked herring (2895) 
Calf’s head a la poulette (1516) 
Troyes Chitterlings (1775) 

Rib steak of beef & la Royer (1365) 
Potatoes, housekeeper’s style (2791) 
Woodcock roasted (2206) 

Wells of love (8338) 


108 
Whitefish 4 la Gherardi (1811) 
Eggs molded a la Parisian (2876) 


Mutton kidneys on skewers, Bordelaise 
sauce (1619) 


Tripe 4 la mode de Caen (1471) 


Stuffed tomatoes with fresh mushrooms 
(2842) 


Roast squabs with water-cress (2018) 
Cheese (3697) 


BILLS OF FARE. 41 


DECEMBER—BREAKFAST. 


109 
Bartholomew canapés (852) 


Fried eggs & la Montebello (2867) 
Wall eyed pike a la Durance (12138) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 

Young rabbit, Valencia style (2139) 
Roast Guinea fowl (1958) 

Corn salad (2669) 

Darioles with vanilla (8301) 


111 

Oysters on the half shell (803) 

Eels fried with butter and fine herbs (1151) 
Scrambled eggs 4 la Martinez (2937) 
Oxtail A la Castellane (1320) 

Bussy potatoes (2777) 

Broiled canvasback duck (2054) 

Oyster plant salad (2656) 

Lafayette cakes with rum (33138) 


113 

Canapés of herring (777) 

Oyster omelet (2901) 

Whitefish, pimentade sauce (1312) 
Round buttock top of beef baked (1335) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 

Roasted pullet with water cress (1996) 
Apple fritters, Montagnard (38037) 
Mince pie (8089) 


Oh $$$ rr 


115 

Rissoles of crawfish 4 la Béatrice (949) 
Hunter’s omelet (2896) 

Chicken sautéd 4 la Sherman (2468) 


Minced tenderloin of beef, Creole style (139%) 


Roast duck (1921) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 
Cheese (3697) 


110 


Sardine canapés (777) 

Omelet with onions and ham (2900) 
Fresh herrings mustard sauce (1175) 
Woodcock pudding (2825) 

Bag sausage fried (1803) 

Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) 
Galettes, haif puffed (3306) 


112 


Onion soup with Parmesan cheese (381) 

German carp with sauerkraut (1132) 

Omelet with bacon (2879) 

Blanquette of tenderloin of pork with 
mushrooms (1814) 

Minion fillets of lamb, shallot sauce with 
marrow (1727) 

Potatoes, housekeeper’s style (2791) 

Blackhead duck roasted (2052) 

Celery salad (2660) 

Demonet tartlets (8331) 


114. 


Frostfish, Cherbourg style (1159) 

Eggs on a dish with bacon (2921) 

Tripe a la poulette with mushrooms (1472) 

Paupiettes of fillets of veal a la Whittier 
(1511) 

Dauphine potatoes (2783) 

Roast squabs (2118) 

Monk’s beard salad (2674) 

Madelenes with rum (3316) 


116 


Scrambled eggs with sweetbreads (2948) 
Lamb fries, cream horseradish sauce (1696) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 

Braised duck with olives (1924) 

Cépes baked with cream (2724) 

Cheese (8697) 


Dessert 


42 THE EPICUREAN. 


BILL OF FARE FOR INVALIDS. 


Arrow root, Indian (361) 
Bavaroise (362) 
Chicken broth, plain (863) 
Chicken and mutton broth with barley (864) 
Chicken and veal broth (365) 
Clam broth and purée (366) 
_ Custard cream of chicken or game (867) 
Extract of beef, clarified (369) 
Extract of beef, plain (368) 
Fish broth with clams (370) 
Frog broth and purée (871) 
| Herb broth (372) 
“Jelly of chicken aid bald feet (373) 
Jelly of meat and calf’s feet (374) 
J elly of calf’s feet with Madeira wine (374) : 
Mulled egg and almond milk thickened with rice flour (376) 
Mutton broth (875) 
Pressed beef juice (377) 
Purée of barley with chicken broth (378) 
Purée of chicken, partridge, grouse or roebuck (379) 
Purée of oatmeal or wheaten grits (380). 
Sabayon of chicken or game (381) 
Tea of beef, mutton, chicken or veal (882) 
Veal broth, refreshing (388) 


Wheat, oat or barley broth (384) 


117 


BILLS OF FARE. 


JANVIER. 


LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. 


Barsac 


Champagne 
Perrier Jouét 


Chateau 
Lagrange 


Champagne 





~~ Cailles 


MENU. 


Ecrevisses vinaigrette (782) 

Caviar garni de citrons (778) 

Huitres sur coquilles creuses 
(803) 


Bouillon en tasses (187) 
Homard a la creme (1044) 


Tournedos filet de boeuf 4 la 
Roqueplan (1436) 

Petits pois a PAnglaise (2742) 

Ris de veau a la Parisienne 
(1576) 

Macédoine a la Montigny (2755) 

Terrapeéne a la Maryland (1085) 


grillées garnies de 

cresson (2128) . 

Mousseline de foies gras a la 
Dana (2535) 


Salade de laitue (2672) 


Glace soufflée Favart (8534) 
Macarons d’angélique (8380) 
Fruits (8699) 

Bonbons (3642) 

Café (3701) 


MARS. 


LUNCH, 10 COUVERTS. 


Haut 


Sauterne 


Champagne 
Perrier 
Jouet Brut 


Pontet Canet 


MENU. 


Thon mariné (831) 
Céleri rave (779) 


Consommeé (189) 
Canapés Lorenzo (855) 


Queues de petites langoustes 
a la Monte Carlo (1036) 


Cotelettes d’agneau Robinson 
(1685) 
Petits pois aux laitues (2746) 


Terrapéne Baltimore (1083) 


Pigeonneaux grillés, sauce Col- 
bert (2013) 

Galantine de faisan découpée 
(2495) 

Salade de laitue (2672) 

Omelette souffiée 4 la Vanille 
(3066) 

Glace pouding, Diplomate 
(3491) 

Fruits (3699) 

Petits fours (3364) 

Café (3701) 


118 


43 


FEVRIER. 


LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. 


Aéres 


Chateau 
Yquem 


Champagne 
Dry Monopole 


Chateau 
Larose 


MENU. 


Canapés de saumon (777) 
Mortadella (818) 


Consommé de volaille (190) 


Cotelettes de filet de boouf a la 
Babanine (2255) 
Tomates ala Trévise (2836) 


Poulet sauté ala Marcel (1892) 
Petits Pois a la Parisienne 
(2745) 


Champignons sous cloche (2761) 
Punch, Favorite (3508) 


Bécassines roéties (2159) 
Salade de cresson (2676) 


Omelette soufflée aux pommes 


120 


(3063) 
Gelée a la Rose (3181) 
Charlotte Russe (8145) 


Glace pommes de terre farcies 
sauce marasquin (3575) 


Petits fours (3364) 
Café (3701) 


AVRIL. 


LUNCH, 14 COUVERTS. 


Graves 


St. Estéphe 


Champagne 
Mumm Extra 


Dry 


Tiqueurs ~ 


MENU. 
Punch orange a la Russe (3613) 
Canapés d’anchois (777) 
Consommé en tasses (189) 


Crabes d'huitre Salamandre 
(1005) 

Coételettes d’agneau a la Clém- 
entine (1673) 

Pommes de terre fondantes 
(2799) 


Asperges a la sauce Hollandaise 
(2692) 


Poulet roti 
(1881) 


Paté de jambon (2558) 
Salade de romaine (2675) 


Mazarine 4 l’ananas et au kirsch 
(8053) 


Gateau St. 
(3261) 


Plombiére Richemont (8481) 
Fruits (3699) 


Petits fours (8364) 
Café (3701) 


a la_ casserole 


Honoré Sultane 


ia THE EPICUREAN. 


12h MAI. 122 : JUIN. 
LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Lafaurie Consommé en tasses (189) ee ee printaniers 
Canapés de caviar (777) 
Coquilles de homard (2348) Chablis Bouillon (187) 
Champagne Ailes de poulet A la Génin Vieux Moules a la Villeroi (1048) 
oe ee - St. Pierre Noisettes de filet de boouf a la 
Rederer Petits pois 4 la Parisienne (2745) Maire (1415) 
Ris de veau a la St. Cloud Aubergines 4 la Duperret (2735) 
1566 : 
ee Uo aux champig- Champagne Ailes de poulet a la Harrison 
nons (2842) Pommery Sec 
; ws Concombres farcis (2734) 
Batailly Poulet grillé au petit salé (1830) 
Asperges sauce Hollandaise 
Galantine de caneton en forme (2692) 
de poire (2487) 
Salade de laitue (2672) Sorbet Tosca (3519) 
Omelette fourrée aux fraises Nuits Pigeonneaux rotis 4 la casserole 
Gelée macédoine au champagne Salade de laitue (2672) 
C28 Omelette souffiée aux amandes 
Glace mousse Sémiramis (3471) (3062) 
Liqueurs - ‘Fruits (8699) Tiqueurs Fruits (699) 
Petits fours (3364) Gateaux japonais (3347) 
Café (3701) Café (3701) 





123 JUILLET. 124 AovT. 
LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Aérés et Accola (831) Xéres et Salade d’anchois (772) 
Bitter Betteraves (774) Bitter — Cornichons (785) 
Lucines orangées (808) Timbales Chevaliére (968) 
Chablis Homards rotis 4 la broche (1040) Niesteiner Crabes moux grillés au beurre 
Concombres a l’Anglaise (2661) ravigote (1006) 
Champagne Escalopes de ris de veau Conea pee eae 
Cliquot Sec Caréme (2284) Pontet Canet Mignons de filet de boeuf 
Mais bouilli en tige (2780) Baillard (1400) 


Oréme de pommes de terre au 


Chaudfroid de poularde (2458) gratin (2781) 


Salade de laitue (2672) 
Champagne Ailes de poulet Valerri (1856) 


Omelette souffiée légére (3061) Irroy Brut _ Petits pois a la frangaise (2748) 


Gateau Fleury (3237) Beaune Canetons rotis (1938) 
Framboises & la créme (8699) Paté de foies gras découpé 
(2568) 


Glace pouding Diplomate (3491) Salade de laitue (2672) 


Petits fours (8364) Beignets de cerises (3042) 
Fromage (3697) 

Glace Spongade Parépa (3537) 
Café Granit au cognac glacé Tiqueurs Café (3701) 


(3609) Claret cup Villars (8712) 


125 


BILLS 


SEPTEMBRE, 


LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. 


Haut 
Sauterne 


Chateau 
Couffran 


Champagne 
Perrier Jouet 
Spécial 





127 


MENU. 


Eperlans marinés (821) 
Olives (800) 


Consommé de volaille (190) 
Homard & la Camille (1028) 


Noisettes de filet de bouf 
Triumvir (1419) 
Riz a VOrientale (2978) 


Filets de poulet a la Gallier 
(2466) 
Haricots verts sautés (2829) 


Paté de cailles 4 la gelée (2565) 
Salade de romaine (2675) 


Omelette souffiée aux macarons 
(3064) 


Gelée  tunisienne rubanée 


(8184) 
Fruits (3699) 
Compote (8686) 
Café (8701) 


NOVEMBRE. 


_ LUNCH, 18 COUVERTS. 


Aérés et 
Bitter 


Chateau 
Lagrange 


Champagne 
Delmonico 


Nuits 


Liqueurs 


MENU. 
Piments doux d’Espagne (806) 


Jambon de Westphalie (786) 
Consommé en tasses (189) 
Canapés Martha (856) 


Huitres 4 la Béarnaise tomatée 
(1052) 


Mignons de filet de boeuf Dumas 
(1402) 

Pommes de terre fondantes 
(2799) 


Bécassines farcies Bordelaise 
(2160) 
Tomates Boquillon (2833) 


Coquilles de ris de veau & la 
Harper (2357) 


Sorbet Jeune Amérique (3530) 
Cailles grillées (2128) 


Terrine entiére de foies gras en 
aspic (2413) 
Salade de laitue (2672) 


Glace souffiée 41’ Alcazar (3533) 


Fruits (8699) 
Petits fours (3364) 
Café (8701) 


OF FARE. 45 
126 OCTOBRE. 
LUNCH, 14 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
aérés et 


Roties Waddington (826) 
Truffes 4 V’huile (830) 


Consommé (189) 


Bitter 


Liebfraumilch Coquilles de queues d’écrevis- 
ses (2341) 


Cotelettes de chevreuil Buridan 
(2170) 


Petits pois 4 la ménagére (2744) 


Champagne  Pigeonneaux frits sauce Figaro 
Riunart (2017) 
Brut Cépes & la Provengale (2723) 
Pluviers grillés, sauce Colbert 
(2118) 
Madére Chaudfroid de dinde a la Péri- 
gord (2462) 
Salade d’Escarole (2671) 
Impérial Gateau Vacherin a4 la créme 
(38264) 
Glace délicieux aux noisettes 
(3592) 
Liqueurs Petits fours (3364) 


Café (3701) ’ 


ev 


128 DECEMBRE. 
LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
Saumon fumé (822 
Tartelettes de gibier (825) 
Sauterne Huitres crues (803) 
Premiére Consommé en tasses (189) 
Homards Provengale (1039) 
St. Julien Noisettes de filet de boeuf Ber- 
Supérieur thier (1411) 
Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise (2742) 
Terrapéne au madeére (1090) 
Clicquot Sec Perdreaux grillés 4 l’Anglaise 
(2085) 
Terrine de mauviettes (2599) 
Salade d’escarole (2671) 
Omelette souffiée a l’Ancienne 
(3060) 
Flan de pommes Manhattan 
(3034) 
Riz Mirabeau (3213) 
Glace plombiére d’Alencon 
(3483) 
Liqueurs Fruits (3699) 


Petits fours (3364) 
Café (3701) 


46 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANUARY—LUNCH. 


129 BESS 0 
Oysters 4 la Béarnaise tomatoed (1052) Scallops Brestoise (1074) 
Escalops of fat livers with risot, Périgueux Behe chicken livers with mushrooms 
eee Ie Green peas, French style (2748) 
Eggs cocottes (2873) | Broiled woodcock (2204) 
Broiled quails (2128) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) 
Endive salad (2671) Mocha cake (8249) 
Meringue flawn (3174) Apples 
Dessert 


Dessert 


Sia 


131 1382 

Baked scallops on toast (1078) Baked oysters & la Crane (1057) 
Loin pork pie, English style (2378) Small patties with gravy (2318) 
Broiled ruddy duck (2067) Minced partridge (2090) 

Celery salad (2660) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) 
Glazed apple marmalade (3125) Broiled grouse (2071) 

Roasted chestnuts Babas with rum (8288) 

Dessert | Malaga grapes 


133 r | 434 

Oysters a la Boucicault (1058) : Scallops Mariniére (1076) 

Veal palates, Epicurean style (1540) Crépinettes of chicken, Turenne (2845) 
Roasted stuffed squabs (2018) | Broiled canvasback (2054) 

Lettuce salad (2672) Cos lettuce salad (2675) 

Banana crusts 4 la Panama (3028) Fruit flawn (3172) 


Grape fruit Florida oranges 


Dessert Dessert 


Kc i 


135 @ bes bescies L< 

Scallops Havraise (1075) | Curried oysters, Thdian style (1071) 
Skewers of chicken livers, Colbert sauce (2222) | ~~ Shells of chicken (2345) | 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) Shipgel alisnne potatoes (2792) 

Broiled partridges, English style (2085) | ‘Broiled et duck (2067) 

Lettuce salad (2672) “2 | Endive. salad, (2671) 

Chateau framboisé (3141) | | Pineapple 


Fas anes Py : 3 
Pears eh Dessert 





| 





BILLS OF FARE. 4% 


FEBRUARY—LUNCH. 


137 
Oyster rissolettes, Pompadour (956) 


Beefsteak, Bordelaise with marrow and 


truffles (1372) 
Roast reedbirds with cresses (2152) 
Cauliflower salad mayonnaise (2649) 
Venetian lemon custard pie (3202) 
Chestnut Plombiére (3486) 
Grape fruit 
Dessert 


138 


Border of risot of lobsters (2213) 


Minion fillets of spring lamb a la Benoist 
(1720) 


Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) 
Broiled ptarmigans (2071) 
Cucumber salad (2661) 

Rice souffié with maraschino (3121) 
Roasted chestnuts 

Dessert 





139 

Lobster ala Bonnefoy (1026) 
Minced beef 4 la Beekman (1396) 
Baked cauliflower with cheese (2717) 
Roast squabs (2018) 

Lettuce salad (2672) 

Printanier boats (cakes) (3291) 
Apples 


Dessert 


141 ; 

Anchovy canapés (777) 

Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) 

Pork chops with apple croquettes (1779) 
Potato and beetroot salad (2652) _ 
Broiled teal ducks (2067) 

Jealousy cakes (3311) 

Malaga grapes 


Dessert 


143 


Oysters (803) 
Cromesquis of striped bass (870) 


Broiled breaded lamb cutlets with gravy (1690) 


Green peas, French style (2748) 
Broiled redhead ducks (2063) 
Tomato salad (2666) — _ 
Custard in a dish (3159) 
Pineapple ™ are) 

Dessert 


Sr eee Pane a Wes fe See eee eee 


140 
Fried soft clams (998) 


Lamb cutlets with string beans (1693) 


Marrow squash with Parmesan (2824) 


Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) 
Endive salad (2671) 

Small savarin cakes (8324) 

Roman bomb (3442) 


Bananas 


142 


Crusts of fat livers (905) 
Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) 
Baked noodles (2971) 

Broiled ptarmigan (2071) 

Chicory salad (2668) 

Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) 
Florida oranges 


Dessert 


144 


Oysters (803) 

Scallops breaded with milk and fried (1077, 
Veal cutlets with fine herbs (1504) 
Roast tame duck (1921) 

Water-cress salad (2676) 

Floating Islands (eggs) (8163) 

Syruped baba (3227) 

Pomegranates 

Dessert 


48 THE EPICUREAN. 


MARCH—LUNCH. 


145 146 

Scallops breaded with eggs and fried (1077) Small lobster, Bordelaise (1025) 

Veal pie a la Dickens (2380) Fricassee of turkey wings baked (2088) 
Artichoke bottoms, Villars (2682) Tomatoes A la Boquillon (2888) 
Broiled duckling (1938) Broiled reedbirds (2151) 

Chicory salad (2668) Endive salad (2668) 

Rice souffié with maraschino (8121) Meringued apples, Nubian (2996) 
Pineapple Malaga grapes 


a TTS 
147 148 
Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) Lobster with cream (1044) 








Squabs roasted in the saucepan (2018) 
Eggplant & la Robertson (2787) 


Terrapin, ancient style (1087) 
Artichokes, Rachel (2690) 
Small aspics of foies gras (2412) 
Apple flawn, latticed (8169) 


Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) 
Small orange soufflés in cases (8120) 
Milk punch iced (3511) Strawberries 


Bananas Dessert 












149 


Consommé in cups (189) 


150 
Oysters with Parmesan (1078) 


Pork cutlets with apples (1777) 
Mushrooms sautéd with butter (2760) 


Roast English pheasants adorned with 
their own plumage (2107) 


Stuffed small lobster tails (1048) 

Terrapin, Newberg (1086) 

Small “‘ pains” of chicken 4 I’Ecarlate (2548) 
Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) Eggs with coffee cream meringued (8088) 
Grape fruit Florida oranges 


Dessert Dessert 





i. 


151 152 

Lobster & la Hervey (1034) 

Terrapin a la Crisfield (1084) 

Italian salad (2635) 

Asparagus, vinaigrette (2692) Crépinettes of pigeons, poivrade sauce 

Roast thrushes (2166) with truffle essence (No. 2246) 
Madeira crusts (8026) 


Bavarois with meringues (31338) 
Custard in a dish (8159) Pears 


Oysters 4 1a Rubino (1055) 


Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (87) 


Lettuce salad (2672) 


BILLS OF FARE ee 49 


APRIL—LUNCH. 


153 

Caviare (778) 

Scallops a la Brestoise (1074) 

Grenadins of beef with sweet peppers (1394) 
Noodles with fried bread-crumbs (2973) 
Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) 
Stuffed eggs (sweet) (8031) 

Grape fruit 

Dessert 


154 
Oysters on the deep shell (808) 


Lobster & la Rougemont (1041) 

Vienna Schnitzel, German style (1512) 
Green peas with braised lettuces (2746) 
Timbales of chicken, Parisian style (2382) 
Souffiés in cases with vanilla (3120) 
Oranges 

Dessert 





155 
Crusts & la Génoise (904) 


Deviled lobster (1048) 

Lamb steak, maitre-d’hdtel (1718) 
Baked tomatoes (2837) 
Chaudfroid of larks (2454) 
lontine island (3163) 


Hot-house grapes 


157 

Oysters on crusts (1062) 

Escalops of beef palates, chestnut purée (2277) 

Croustades of chicken livers with Madeira 
(2250) 

Tomatoes & la Trévise (2886) 

Squabs Crapaudine (2007) 

Cream pie (3201) 

Apples 


159 

Pickled oysters (802) 

Lobster tails & la Stanley (1042) 
King’s pilau of lamb (1709) 
Fried frog’s legs, cream sauce (1022) 
Hot pie, Bontoux style (2314) 
Genoese cake (8307) 


Strawberries 


156 
Radishes (808) 
Fresh butter (775) 
Croustades of lamb’s sweetbreads (2251) 
Broiled teal duck (2067) 
Potatoes in surprise (2809) 
Cake stuffed with apricots (3325) 
Cream cakes iced with vanilla (8294) 
Bananas 


158 


Julienne soup, Faubonne (818) 
Quenelles of turkey, Providence (2336) 
Minion fillets of lamb, Landgrave (1721) 
Artichoke bottoms, Florence (2677) 
Larks & la Maréchale (2081) 

Meringued pancakes, Rossini (3073) 
Pineapple 


Te a eeeniiians 


160 
Oysters and lemons (808) 
Cream of peas 4 la St. Germain (260) 
Breast of lamb, chopped sauce (1663) 
Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) 
Boudins of chicken, Soubise (2215) 
Baked apples (2992) 


Grape fruit 


50 THE EPICUREAN. 


MAY—LUNCH. 
161 162 
Clam pancakes or fritters (996) Colombines of chicken liver with ham (865) 
Deviled frog’s legs (1020) 
Patties 4 l’Andalouse (934) 
Slices of lamb, Prévillot (1711) _ 
Broiled ptarmigans (2071) © 
Chicory salad (2668). ©. 


Small patties, Mazarin (944) 
Fipigrammes of lamb & la Toulouse (1694) 
Broiled squabs (2013) 

Lettuce salad (2672) iia garon c 


Surprise of fruits, frothy sauce (8219) - ~ Almondine tartlets (3326) 

Apples Pees Hot-house grapes 

163 xu 164 

Quenelles of fish, Montglas (2830) Boudins of pickerel & 1a Walton (844) 
Sweetbread croquettes (893) es _ Benofton shells (2339) _ 


Roast tame duck (1921) Sweetbreads in papers (1573) : 
3 Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) 
Cos lettuce salad (2675) ae aa Cee 

: Water-cress and apple salad (2676) 


Cream macaroons in cases (3388) Apricots with cream of almonds (3287) 


Spanish oranges oe | Bananas 

SS 

165 166 

Lobster, Monte Carlo (10386) | Brissotins of chicken, supreme sauce (849) 
Palmettes of ham 4 l’Aquitaine (927) Sweetbreads on skewers (2226) 
Chaudfroid of chicken, Clara Morris (2451) Parisian green peas (2745) 

Ptarmigans (2071) ~ : Roast duck (1921) 

Lettuce salad (2672) Maes Endive salad (2671) 3 
Crescents with preserves (8298) Apple croquettes, Trimalcion (8016) - 


Hot-house peaches 


Pineapple 





167 168 
Crusts a la d’Hénin (904) Lobster & la Fresne (1082) 
Célestines with foies-gras and purée of chest- 


Junot palmettes (921) 
nuts (862) 


) Minion fillets of lamb in surprise (172 
Squab cutlets, Périgueux (2267) rprise (1726) 


Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) String Deals 1st 


Minions of tenderloin of beef, Stanley (1406) Strawberry short cake (3262) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) Biscuits in cases with cream (8289) 


Lady bouchées with strawberries (8376) Pears 


BILLS OF FARE. d1 


J UNE—LUNCH. 


169 170 
Lobster 4 la Delmonico (1037) | Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) 
‘Timbales Mentana (974) - . } Varsovian palmettes (924) 


2 - 
Mutton cutlets with chicory (1602) Breast of beef a la Florence (1314) 


Artichoke bottoms, Montglas (2679) . Stuffed tomatoes baked (2837) 
Croquettes of capon a la Royal (876). - ! (. Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce (2692). 
Coffee cream éclairs (3303) : Bordelaise tartlets (3328) 


Cherries ee Hot-house grapes 
« Ht 

















172 


171 es — 
Soft shell crabs, sautéd in butter (1006) 


Clam chowder (300) oe ; 
Shells of calf’s brains (2355) 


: Lamb cutlets a la Durand (1674) 
Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, Berthier (1411) 


Tomatoes & la Boquillon (2833) 
Broiled duckling (1988). =< ~ ) \ 
- Macédoine salad (2650) © 


Italian salad (2635) 
Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) 
Strawberries and cream | Rice border with bananas (3005) 


Peaches Grape fruit 


173 
Frog’s legs fried with cream sauce (1022) _ 


174 


Cromesquis of mussels (873) 
Soft crabs, sautéd (1006) 
Tournedos of beef 4 la Hutching (1433) 


Small puff paste salmon patties (945) 
Minion fillets of lamb, Lefort (1722) 

Roast qanabs (2018) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) 
Cos lettuce salad (2675) 


Goronflot cakes (3310) . 


Lettuce salad (2672) 


Strawberry ice cream (3451) 


Bananas Pineapple 


175 

Bressoles of fat livers (848) 

Shells of squabs, baked (2356) 

Broiled partridges, English style (2085) 


176 
Clams, Philadelphia style (994) 


Cassolettes, Lusigny (860) 
Small‘ pains” of chicken a VEcarlate(2543) 


Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842). Ducklings, Rouennaise (1937) 


Aspies of foies gras (2411) Cos lettuce salad (2675) 


Strawberry short cake (3262) Meringued croustades of Venice (3020) 


Raspberries Strawberries 


52 THE EPICUREAN. 


JULY—LUNCH. 
aby Are BG fe 
Shells of lobster (2348) Pickled alligator pears (771) 


Ne Soft clams on skewers (999) 
Squab cutlets, Périgueux (2267) 
Noisettes of plain tenderloin of beef (1410) 


Potato cakes (2778) String beans, & la Pettit (2827) 


Lamb minion fillet pie a la Manning (2373) Roasted reedbirds (2152) 
Small vanilla soufflés in cases (3130) Cream cakes iced with chocolate (3294) 
Apricots 


Cream cheese (3698) 





179 iy 180 
Little Neck clams 4 la poulette (995) Frog’s legs a la Osborn (1018) 
Sweetbread patties, French style (940) Soft shell crabs sautéd in butter (1006) 


Chicken cutlets 4 la Clarence (2258) 
Corn cut up (2731) 
Potted tenderloin of beef 4 la Nelson © 


Grenadins of beef as venison (1388) 


Frog’s legs fried 4 la Horly (1021) 


Savarin with apricots (3117) : (2320) 
Marly cake (8246) Turkish coffee (8702) 
Blackberries Cherries 


181 | 182 
Lobster tart 4 la Hérault (2374) Croustades of gnocquis, Rivoli (899) 
Cases of squabs, Umberto (2234) Border of risot of lobster (2218) 


Boiled corn on the cob (2780) Pigeon tart 4 la Britannia (2377) 


Small roasted spring chickens as an entrée 


(1908) Broiled duckling (1938) 
Lettuce salad (2672) Celery salad (2660) 
Surprise of fruits (8219) 7 Iced banana pudding (3487) 
Gooseberries Currants 





183 (| 184 

Stuffed clams (997) | Olives stuffed with anchovies (801) 

Frog’s legs & la d’Antin (1017) | | Lobster brochettes (2224) 

Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy | Cases of sweetbreads, Grammont (2235) 
(1579) : Broiled chickens with tarragon sauce 

Surtout of wild pigeons (2368) (1831) 

Timbale & la Nantaise (2381) Small Quillet cakes (8397) 

Molded snow eggs (8164) Muskmelon 


Bananas Cheese 


BILLS OF FARE. 53 


AUGUST—LUNCH. 


185 186 
Lobster, American style (1024) Kulibiac, Russian style (908) 





















Pigeons braised with green peas (1969) Lobster a la Lawrence (10385) 


Tiimbales of sweetbreads, modern (2388) Beef pie a la Perez (2369) 


Cream cakes iced with coffee (3294) Shells of mussels (2349) 


Raspberry water-ice (3607) Raspberry soufflé (3122) 


Peaches. Cheese 


187 
Frog’s legs & la poulette with mushrooms 
(1019) 


Pilau of chicken (1878) 

Lobster a la Gambetta (1038) 

Tournedos of fillet of beef, Brétigny (1481) 
Savarin 4 la Valence (8259) 


Lobster & la Camille (1028) 
Escalops of veal & la Arnold (2285) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 
Timbale for epicures (2388) 


Peach marmalade pancakes macédoine 
(3075) ae 


Cheese Pears _ 


189 
‘*Pain ” of pike (2307) 


190 


Cromesquis of beef palate (867) 
Lobster, mayonnaise (2584) Fried sweatbreads, Neapolitan style (1562) 


Squabs, Stanislas (2011) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Shells of frog’s legs (2347) 


Japanese salad (2636) 


Noisettes of shoulder of lamb, Epicurean (1780) 
Cannelons a la Célestine (8292) 
Parfait with nougat and with almonds (8478) 


Cheese 
Plums 


191 
Oysters with fine herbs (1072) 


192 
Shells filled with crawfish tails (2341) 


Lobster 4 la Britannia (1027) Beef palate tourte, Parisian style (2390) 


: : Squabs sautéd a Impromptu (2010) 
Fried chicken, Médicis (1870) : P 
Sarah potatoes (2802) 


ral a 5 2 
Small vol-au-vent, Delmontés (2403) Sweetbread fritters, cream sauce (1572) 
Cream cakes with St. Honoré cream (8296) Water melon on ice 


Apricots 3 *k Raspberries. 


54 THE EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBER—LUNCH. 


193 
Alligator pears (771) 


Boudins of game, Berchoux (2218) 

Oysters 4 la Rubino (1055) 

Epigrammes of mutton 4 la Jardiniére (1607) 
Timbale of pullet (2386) 


Iced souffiés, Favart (3534) 


195 
Shrimp patties (935) 


Tournedos of tenderloin of beef 4 la Roque- 
plan (1436) 


Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 
Broiled partridges, Colbert sauce (2099) 
Francillon cakes (8305) 


Cheese 


197 
Cromesquis of game, Stanislas (871) 


Shells of shrimps with oyster crabs (2842) 
Chateaubriand, with souffiéd potatoes (1888) 
Iced pudding, Constance (3490) 


Cocoanut 


199 
Consommé (189) 


Lobster & la Dugléré (1081) 

Timbale of squabs & la Berchoux (2887) 
Lamb cutlets, Murillo (1681) 

Cream with apples (8014) 


Cheese. 


194 
Oysters in cases 4 Ja Hilton (2231) 


Patties with Régence salpicon (943) 
Sirloin steak for gourmets (1378) 


Squabs roasted in earthenware saucepan 
(2018) 


Fiori di latte 4 la Bellini (3467) 
Apples 


196 
-.. Oysters with fine herbs (1072) ~ : 


Cromesquis of sweetbreads, Babanine. 
(872) 


Broiled eggplant, Duperret (2735) 
Breasts of grouse 4 la Ozarina (2072) 
Marillan cakes (8317) 


Bananas 


198 
Fried soft clams with parsley (998) 


Blanquette of pullet with mushrooms: 
(1997) | 


Slices of kernel of venison a la Hussaré 
(2181) coi 


~~ Small aspics of foies-gras (2412) — 
- -Démonet tartlets (8831) 


Cheese 


200 
Strained okra soup (299) 


Baked oysters & la Crane (1057) — 
OCromesquis of beef tongue (872) 
Chickens Ecarlate 4la Derenne (2463) 
Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) 


Concord grapes 


BILLS OF FARE. ; 5B 


OCTOBER—LUNCH. 


moO 
Crawfish tails in shells (2341) 


Chicken fricassee (1861) 

Venison cutlets, tomato Parisian sauce (2174) 
Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842) 
Condé peaches (3081) | 


Watermelon 


203 . Se 
Shells of oysters in their natural shells (2851 


Mutton cutlets with marinade (1604) 
String bean salad (2657) 
Chicken pie, Australian style (2372) 
Alliance fritters (8036) 
Barberries 

rere 


205 
Brissotins of game, Lyonnese (850) 


Lobster a4 la Ravigote (2531) 

Green peas, English style (2742) 

Noisettes of tenderloin of beef with purée of 
"mushrooms (1420) 

Peach ice cream & la Herbster (8453) 


Huckleberries 


ola. ” pe 
207 
Fried soft clams (998) 


Patties with purée of game (936) 

Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) 
Broiled snipe (2157) 

Frothy purée of apples (8127) 


Spanish oranges 


202 
Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) 


Crusts of woodcock (906) 

Artichoke bottoms 4 la Florence (2677) 
Cream of lobster (2470) 

Jelly cake meringued (3248) 

Cheese cS ee 


204 


Oysters in cases a la Lorenzo (2232) 
Venison cutlets with chestnut purée (2175) 
Soufflé of chicken a la Delsart (2360) 
Broiled teal duck (2067) 

Frascati biscuits (3004) 


Muskmelon 


206 
Shells of oysters with fried bread (2353) 


Salmis of partridge cold (2574) 
Croustade a la Périgueux (897) 
Italian salad (2635) 

Roasted woodcocks (2206) . 
Souffiéd omelet with vanilla (3066) 
Cheese 


208 
Shells of oysters baked in their shells 
(2350) 


Epigrammes of lamb, ancient style (16953 
Timbales of pullet (2386) 

Plain Delmonico sirloin steak (13875) 
Lamb’s lettuce salad (2669) 


Preserved quinces (3685) 


56 THE EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBER—LUNCH. 


209 
Steamed oysters (1064) 


Lobster a la Creole (1029) 

Rib steak a la Bercy (1364) 

Galantine of pheasant, sliced (2495) 

Roast chicken garnished with water-cresses 
(1881). 

Rice border with bananas (8005) 


Dessert 


1 0ee ee . 
Venison cutlets a la Cauchoise (2171) 
Croustades of reedbirds (2252) 

Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) 

Redhead duck roasted (2068) 

Lettuce salad. (2672) 

Nesselrode pudding with candied chest- 
nuts (8495) 


Dessert 





211 
Oysters in shells roasted (2352) 


Croustades a la Périgueux (897) 
Rabbit pie with fine herbs (2379) 
Roasted teal ducks (2068) 
Peaches a la Stevens (8084) 


Dessert 


213 
Scallops, Horly (1077) 


Croustades ala Morgan (902) 
Veal cutlets, half glaze (1499) 
Celery knob salad (2660) 
Roasted ruddy ducks (2066) 
Genoese Madeleines (3814) 


Roast chestnuts 


215 

White cabbage, English style (776) 

Cromesquis a la Rumford (869) 

Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) 

Small vol-au-vent of reedbirds, Diplomate 
(2407) 

Broiled young wild rabbit backs (2149) 

Tutti-frutti ice cream (8586) 


Stewed quinces 


212 
Oyster brochettes (2225) 


Cromesquis of capon (868) 

Breast of veal 4 la Mondoux (1488) 
Young rabbit fillets, currant sauce (2145) 
Terrapin a la Philadelphia (1085) 

Cream of almond rissoles (8116) 


Bananas 


214 
Shells of scallops, Parisian style (2354) 


Crépine of young rabbit (2249) 
Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy 
(1575) 


Quenelles of turkey a la Providenee (2336) 
Roasted wookcock (2206) 
Cream cakes with burnt almonds (8295) 


Pomegranates 


216 
Marinated Gurnet (831) 
Patties 4 la Reine (988) 
Small sirloin a la Béarnaise (1869) 
Frog’s legs 4 la Royer (1028) 
Broiled teal duck (2067) 
Guanabana water-ice (8608) 


Cheese 





Z 
. 
e. 
“4 
: q 
. 
: 
; 









_ Minion fillets of lamb as venison (1723) 


Veal cutlets 4 la Georgina (1496) 


- Terrapin stew with Madeira wine (1090) 


a Oe . 


Bins OF FARE. 57 


DECEMBER—LU NCH. 


oy , 218 


Curried oysters, Indian style (1071) 
Lobster cutlets 4 la Shelley (2261) 
Baked macaroni (2959) 


*€ Pain ” of crawfish, Chartreuse (2305) 
Terrapin a la Crisfield (1084) 


Timbale of young hare (2389) 


Cold quail pie (2565) 

Asparagus salad (2621) - Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) 
Croquettes 4 la Trimalcion (3016) Chestnut and vanilla soufflé (3118) 
Cocoanut 





219 220 
Oyster crab patties (935) Stuffed hard shell crabs (1004) 


Terrapin cutlets with cream sauce (1089) 


Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) Turkey legs with Milanese noodles (2036) 
Loin of pork pie, English style (2378) Broiled quails (2128 
Jelly rolled biscuit (3312) | Cakes filled with apricot marmalade (3325) 


Cheese Bananas 


ee 
221 222 
Small vol-au-vent 4 la Lucini (2404) Turban of lobsters garnished with shells 
of lobster (2394) 
Marinated pork tenderloin (1815) 
Vol-au-vent, Parisian style (2406) 


Apple Charlotte (8008) Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) 
Crumbled paste cakes (3345) Lady’s bouchées with strawberries (3376) 


0 EE 


223 224 

Fresh mushroom patties (937) Kulibiac Smolenska (909) 

Cases of lobster, Ravigote (2447) Lobster cutlets 4 la Lowery (2476) 
Baked stuffed egg-plant (2738) Chicken pie 4 la Manhattan (2370) 
Gibelotte of rabbits (2147) Sweetbreads 4 la Montebello (1560) 
Cannelons 4 la Célestine (3292) Africans fancy cakes (3364) 


Grape fruit Pomegranates 


PS 
58 THE EPICUREAN. 
225 JANUARY. BIG tis JANUARY. . 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. — MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Meissonier (824) 


Remove 
Sheepshead a la Béchamel (1257) 
Dauphine potatoes (2788) 
Entrées 


Rack of pork, crown shape, with small onions 
(1798) 


Stuffed mushrooms in cases with Madeira (2762) 


~ Pullet & la Dame Blanche (1972) 


Green peas with braised lettuces (2746). ~ 


poate s Sime say 
Woodcock (2206) 
Chicory salad (2668) - 
Hot Entremets 
Brioche and cream fritters with sabayon (3040) 


Bananas in surprise (3541) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Nuts and raisins (8699) 
Dessert — 


Mutton a la Cowley (829) 


Remove 


Fresh codfish & la Duxelle—baked (1136). 
Mellow ibe Se ou 


Was 


Corned breast of beef, English style (1815) 
_ Sweet potato croquettes (2831) 


ae ite ne RR ee See 





Chicken fricassee 4 la Waleski (1866). 
Tomatoes, Queen Sey oy 


Roast 
- Mallard duck (2059) 
Cos-lettuce salad (2675) 
Hot Entremets 
Flawn au lion d’or (8035) 


Plombiére 4 la Rochambeau ice cream (3482) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 





pee 4 JANUARY. 
DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
e MENU. | 
Soup 
Consommé Ciara (224) 


- Side Dish - 
Rissoles of partridges 4 la Waddington (955) 


Fish 
Chicken halibut baked with parmesan (1172) 
ee potatoes (2812) _ 


Remove 
Braised middle short loin a la Messinoise (1847) 
Cardoons with half-glaze (2710) 


Entrées 
Fillets of chicken a la Bodisco (1835) 
Green peas Parisian (2745) 
Salmis of canvasback ducks (2056) 
Fried eggplant (2739) 


Beatrice Punch (8502) 


Roast 
Quail (2131) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Countess pudding (3097) 


Palmyra soufflé ice cream (8535) 
Bonbons (8642) 
Mottoes (3653) 
Black coffee (3701) 


998 JANUARY, 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. . 


Sou 
Consommé Célestine (223) =: — 


Side Dish — 
Palmettes of pheasant a la Torrens (929) 


Fish | 
Red snapper ala Mobile (1235). aa 
Broiled potatoes with fried bread Rest 


- Remove 
Aitch bone boiled, cream homeaniem sauce 
(1317) 
Villeroi celeriac (2722) 


Entrées 
Chicken 4 |’ Hoteliére (1880) 
Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) 
Breasts of woodcock & la Diane (2208) 
Tomatoes a la Boquillon (28338) 


American sherbet (3521) 
Roast 


Pheasant (2107) 
Endive salad (2671) 


Hot Entremets — 
Stuffed pears 4 la Lombarde (3086) 


Plombiére 4 la Richmond ice cream (3481) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Dessert 


Raw oysters or clams (803) may be added to these bills of fare. 





BILLS OF FARE. 59 


229 JANUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bennett (287) 


Remove 


Smelts, Diplomatic (1268) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Entrées . 
Braised. chicken with rice (914) 
Noisettes of beef ala Berthier (1411) 
Brussels sprouts, ala Baroness (2703) 
Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 

Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Pineapple crusts, apricot sauce (8022) 
Iced biscuits 4 la d’Orléans (3437) 


Small cakes (3364) 
Stewed fruits (3686) 
Dessert 


230 JANUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Chicken okra (299) 


Remove 
Fresh codfish slices with Hollandaise sauce 
(1140) 
Boiled potatoes, English sty) le fibioe 
“a Entrées 
Sheep's tongue écarlate with spinach (1657 


Sautéd chicken a la Tunisienne (1901) 
“Fried oyster plant~(2817) 


Roast 
Ruddy duck (2066) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) 


Orange water-ice (3605) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Coffee (3701) Cognac 
Dessert 





231 JANUARY 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup ae 
Consommé & la Rémusat (240) - 


Side Dish 
Chicken croquettes, Hungarian (878) 


Fish ~~ 
Soles 4 la Lutéce (1272) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


— Remove 
Ham braised with stuffed tomatoes (1790) 


Entrées 
Slices of mutton fillet 4 la Alexandre (1608) 
Cauliflower 4 la Villeroi (2716) 
Quails with mushrooms (2134) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Californian sherbet (3528) 


Roast 
Capon (1826) Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Alliance fritters (8036) 


Favart souffié ice cream (3584) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Nuts and raisins (8699) 
Stewed bananas (3687) 

Dessert 


232 JANUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of crabs a ie Stevens (199) 


Side Dish 
Timbales Chevaliére (968) 


Fish 
English t turbot with caper sauce (1307) 
erent croquettes in pur beiee (2782) 


Remove 
‘Saddle ety mutton roasted on the spit (1648) 


Entrées 
Chicken, Vienna style sautéd (1905) 
String beans with butter (2829) 
Partridges 4 la Chartreuse (2094) 
Gnocquis (2955) 


Kirsch punch (3510) 
Roast 


Mallard duck (2059) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Creamy souffié with cheese (2982) 


Spongade a la Médicis (8536) 
Small cakes (3364) 
Coffee (3701) Liquors 


Raw oysters or clams (803) may be added to these bills of fare. 


60 | THE EPICUREAN. 


233 JANUARY. | 234 JANUARY. | : 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup ; 


Fermiére style (807) 
Remove 
Hot eel pie (2315) 
Green peas, English style (2742) _ 


) Entrées | 
Breasts of chicken a la Lucullus (1846) 
Artichoke (bottoms) with marrow (2687) 


Pilau of mutton, French style (1641) 
Chicory with cream (2729) 


Roast 


Grouse with apple sauce (2072) 
Escarole salad (2671) 


Hot Entremets 
Singapore pineapple fritters (8046) 


Ice cream with walnuts (3464) 
Fancy cakes (8364) 
Salted almonds (8696) 
Dessert 


os Sees ee Be ae fe a” ot ee . 
eo? of ar ut) os 
a: ree y a by WM a 
. d = : = 4 ay 
a a * 
. 









he J os : 
tthe Soe . Rt & % 


oi Soe 
yy "oe 
2 aa 
‘4 


oi 


Jéréme with sweet potato quenelles (317) 


Remove 
Baked stuffed perch (1210) 
- Mellow potatoes (2799) 
| Entrées 


Sweetbreads & l’Eugénie (1556) 
String beans & l’Albani (2825) 


Woodcock pudding (2825) 
-Ballotines of stuffed cabbage (2705) 


Roast 


Chicken (1881) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples in surprise (2995) 


Maraschino ice cream (8462) 
Small cakes (3364) 
Fruits (3699) 
Dessert 





235 JANUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Consommé a la Dubarry (229) 


Side Dish 
Pheasant croquettes (891) 


Fish 
Sheepshead 4 la Buena Vista (1259) 
Potato cakes (2778) 


Remove 
Goose stuffed with sausages and chestnuts 
(1950) 


Entrées 
Veal cutlets, Milanese (1502) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Woodeocks a la Cavour (2198) 
Artichoke (bottoms) Jusienne (2678) 
Pargny punch (3514) 

Roast 


Redhead ducks (2068) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Creole fruits (3051) 


Coffee mousse ice cream (3473) 
Stewed fruits (3686) 
Dessert 


236 JANUARY. _ 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of carrots -& la Crécy (268) 


Side Dish 
Neapolitan timbales (977) 


Fresh codfish a la Norwegian (1137) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Remove ; 
Tenderloin of beef a la d’Aurelles (1449) 

_ Entrées i en 
Breasts of chicken a la Mirabeau (1849) 
Stuffed cauliflower a la Béchamel (2715) - 


Sweetbreads A Ia Conti (1554) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Californian sherbet (3528) 


Roast 
Canvasback ducks with samp (2055) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Franklyn pudding (3098) 


Ice cream mousse with maraschino (3476) 
Nuts and raisins (3699) 
Dessert 


Raw oysters or clams may be added to these bills of fare. 






BILLS 


JANUARY. 
DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


237 


Soup 
Garbure with lettuce (310) 


Remove 


Spotted fish, Queen sauce (1285) 
Potato fritters (2788) 


Entrées 


Tenderloin steak with Madeira (1425) 
Stuffed tomatoes, Provengal (2835) 


California quails 4 la Monterey (2136) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Roast 
Wild turkey, American style (2028) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples with butter (2999) 


Chocolate ice cream (3449) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Stewed fruits (8686) 
Dessert 


OF PAR EB. 61 
238 JANUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Consommé a la Grammont (234) 


Remove 


Whitefish, Gherardi (1311) 
Potato tartlets (2810) 


Entrées 


Minions of beef tenderloin 4 la Salvini (1405) 
Spinach 4 la Rougemont (2822) 


Sweetbread cutlets, modern style (2271) 
Macédoine & la Montigny (2755) 


Roast 
Pullet with water-cress (1996) 


Hot Entremets 
Pineapple Carolina (3090) 


Lemon water-ice (8604) 
Small cakes (3364) 
Fruits (3699) 
Coffee (8701) 





239 


JANUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS 


MENU. 


- Soup 
Chamberlain (295) 


Side Dish 
Godiveau and chives, puff paste patties (944) 


Fish 
Sole, Venetian style (1278) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef 4 la Dauphiness (1350) 


. Entrées 
Breasts of partridges 4la Jules Verne (2087) 
Artichoke (bottoms) with cream béchamel 
(2686) 
Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy 
(1575) 
French green peas (2748) 


Brandy punch (8510) 
Roast 
Capon (1826) 
Hot Entremets 
Pudding a la de Freese (8099) 


Excelsior biscuit ice cream (3436) 
Fruits (3699) 
Dessert 


JANUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé a la Daumont (228) 


Side Dish 
Cannelons of purée of game (859) 
Fish 
Haddock, Holland style (1165) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 
Remove 
Mongrel goose a la Royer (1946) 


24.0 


Entrées 
Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) 
Stuffed tomatoes with mushrooms (2842) 
Woodcock salmis a la Sandford (2208) 
String beans a l’Albani (2825) 
Punch Dolgorouski (3506) 
Roast 
Teal ducks (2068) 


Hot Entremets 
Peach fritters with maraschino (3039) 
Spongade ice cream a la Parepa (38537) 
Stewed fruits (8686) 
Dessert 


Raw oysters or clams may be added to these bills of fare. 


-_F ee eed ae 7 ens 3 a ay _ e 
oat Gt See i 







62 | | EH EPICURBAN., 





SJANVIER. . 
DINER, 14 COUVERTS—A VAMERICAINE, 
ME NU. : 
Haut Sauterne — Huitres (803) 
cleat fe cm POTAGES. S 
> Gonsomms a la Laguipierre (236) © Créme de Céleri la Livingstone ay 
HORS- -D'GUVRE CHAUDS. . Mla | 
i a eigen _ nouchees de salpicgn de te (943) 
Marcobrunner POIBSONS. be 
Sheepshead a fas sauce eaeiian (126%) Blanchaille frité 3 a la diable (1310) 
uniner y- Sec | ie : nELeve. Boe a 
Gay) alk claret | ‘Filet. ge & la Bernprdt: co ce: 
Pontet-Canet ora ye eee ENTREES, see mt 
P eae ea rm bee ws cl 2 Di Mornay (2080) 
sie;  Souffié de bécasses aux truffes (2366) 
| _ Sorbet Andalouse (3322) 
Laxton) BAS ee SEGAL epre. CE) 2 
“Canard a ‘tote rouge (2063). Salade escarole (2671) 
; ae ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. = Saas ze 
++ Munich aux péches (chaud) (3055) 
Gelée aux ananas Californienne (31 78) Créme bain-marie au café (109 
mt _. Glace Parfait’ nougat ae): ee ate 
Old Port ~~ eA aay Dessert mei Pie 
JANVIER, Me 
DINER, 60 COUVERTS—SERV ICE X \ VANGLAISE. 
- ~ MENU. 
Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Consommé 4a l’Impératrice (281) Tortue verte au a clair (358 
HORS-D’EUVRE FROIDS. . 
Salade d’anchois (772) _—Ollives Espagnoles farcies Got) - Sardines & Vhuile(831) 
ar / Thon mariné (831) — a4 tint a: 2S eo 
POISSONS. ee 
Darne de saumon 4 la Duperré (1240) Pompano a la Soya, (1226) aes 
RELEVES, v3 
Chapon & la Régence (1825) _ Selle d’agneau braisée a la purée de navets (1745) _ 
ENTREES. 
Cételettes de veau Pogarski (2273) Paupiettes de dindonneau au souvenir (2045) - 
Canards Mallart au Madére (2061) Vol-au-vent de poulet aux champignons (2399) 
ROTS. 3 
Faisans rotis aux truffes (2110) Buisson d’écrevisses (2572) 
RELEVES. 
Rissolettes & la Solférino (958) 
ENTREMETS. 
Asperges sauce mousseline (2692) Petits pois 4 la Francaise (2743) 
Gelée aux fruits (8187) Créme tutti frutti (3153) 
Petites caisses de homards a la ravigote (2447) Grosses truffes en serviettes (2843) 
RELEVES. 
Hure de sanglier en surprise garnie d’Africains (3255) Fondue aux truffes du Piémont (2954) 


Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 63 


JANVIER. 2423 
DINER, 60 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE. 
: . MENU. 
Servi par six, dix sur chaque plat. 


BUFFET SEPARE. 


Vermuth, Absinthe, Canapés de crevettes (777) Salade d’anchois (772) 
Kiimmel, Sherry Gelée de canneberges (598) . . Rhubarbe a la créme (8204) 
Thon mariné (831) ©. Radis. (808) -- 
Olives (800) Caviar (778) 
Chablis cc: 60-plats Whuitres sur coquiles (808) - 


POTAGES, @ SOUPIERES), ; 
Amontillado §Consommé Colbert aux ceufs pochés(225) Bisque de homard (205) 


ace eB PLATS DE aunty 
Timbales 4 la Talleyrand (988) Palmettes 4 la Perrier (922) 


POISSONS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). 


Haut Sauterne ——‘ Filétan A la Coligny (1168) Filets de soles, Rochelaise @ 11876) 
RELEVES (3 PLATS DE chigur). 
Batailly ’ Dinde a la Francaise (2029) — Selle @agneau a la Chanceliére (1789) 
ENTREES (8 PLATS DE CHAQUE). | 
Champagne Filets de volaille 4 la Certosa (1836) Cdotelettes de tétras 4 la Ségard (2259) 
- Pommery Sec 


Homard a la Rougemont (1041) Chaudfroid de cailles a la Baudy (2459) 


ROTS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). 


Perdreaux truffés (2100) Poularde au cresson (1996) 
. LEGUMES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). 5 
Chateau Céleri 4 la moelle (2721) Petits pois fins 4 la Parisienne (2745) 
La Rose 


ENTREMETS SUCRES (CHAUDS) (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). 


Brioches St. Mare (3006) Pouding a la Benvenuto (8092) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES (FROIDS) (3 PLATS DE eae 


Vin de Paille Gelée aux fruits (3 plats) (3187) 
Gaufres brisselets 4 la creme framboisée (3223) 
60 Glaces variées (3538) 


FLANCS. 
2 Chariots garnis de pommes d’api (3632) 
Une brouette garnie de fleurs sur sucle (3638) 
CONTRE FLANCS. 


Deux étagéres garnies de bonbons, marrons glacés et Victorias (3379) 
8 Tambours garnis de petits fours (8364) Macarons (3379) 
Africains (3364) Bouchées de dames (3376) 


SEIZE BOUTS DE TABLE. 


4 Corbeilles de fruits frais (3699) | 4 Compotiers de fruits secs (3699) 
4 Fromages (3697) 4 Compotes de pommes (3686) 
Café (3701) 


rs 
64 | THE EPICUREAN. | — 


JANVIER. : 
DINER, 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE ALA FRANQAISE. 
_ ‘MENU. 
Premier Service. 


On place les hors-d’euvre sur la table. 
Olives (800 Salade d’anchois (772) Céleri rave (779) Beurre (775) ; 
rails 2508) Melon cantaloup (799) Mortadelle (818) Caviar (778) 
Huitres sur coquilles avec citron (808) A 
Les hors-d’ceuvre d’office se servent aprés le potage 
POTAGES. : 
Consommé souveraine (248) _ Purée de volaille 4 la Dufferin (269) 
Marsala 
Timbales a la Lagardére (970) 


RELEVE. 
Bass rayé & la Masséna (1106) 
Marcobrunner ay 
Selle de mouton a la Duchesse (1644) 
Médoc Pomard r 


ENTREES. 


Ailes de poulet &.la Toulouse (1854) COtelettes de filet de boeuf a la Babanine (2255) 
Ris de veau a la St. Cloud (1566) Salmis de bécasses & la Beaumont (2207) 


Pichon Longueville 


PIECES FROIDES SUR SOCLE. ' 
Galantine de dinde 4 la Berger (2499) Paté de foies-gras de Strasbourg (2564) 
Chateau Yquem 


Deuxiéme Service. 


Retirer les hors-@auvre et les pitces froides et placer le second service, nombre égal de plats du 
premier service. Salade en méme temps que le roti. 


INTERMEDE. 
Punch & Vv Impérial (8509) 
. ROYS. : 
Poulardes au cresson (1996) | Canvasbacks rétis (canards sauvages) (2055) 
Chambertin Chateau Laffitte 


ENTREMETS. — 


Quartiers d’artichauts (2688) Petits pois 4 la Frangaise (2748) Poires & la Ferriére (80855 
Gelée macédoine au champagne (8179) 


Aéres 
GROS GATEAUX (sur socle) 
Napolitaine (8250) Mille-feuilles Pompadour (3247) 
Constance 


Troisiéme Service. 
Enlever le tout excepté le milieu de table (dormant) qui est garni de fleurs ow de groupes, &e. 


DESSERT. bi 
Fromages variés (3697) Fruits frais en corbeilles (3699) 
Tokai 
Guéridons garnis de biscuits aux amandes glacées (3369) de fondants au chocolat (3650) 
et de fondants a la vanille (3651) 
Alicante 
Muscat 
Glaces Alaska Florida (3538) Sabayon a la Denari (3532) Gelée d’oranges en tasses (3180) 
Compote de poires (3692) La hotte a la Denivelle (3636) 
Casque en nougat garni de sucre filé (3598) 
Pale ale 


Le café et les liqueurs sont servis au salon. 





BILLS OF FARE. 


24.5 


FEBRUARY. | 
DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Manestrone Milanese (822) 


Remove 


Fried soles & la Colbert (1271) 
Cucumbers, English style (2661) 


Entrées 


Boiled leg of mutton with mashed turnips (1629) 
Chicken sautéd a la Stanley (1900) 
Chicory with cream (2729) 

Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Roast 
Pullet (1996) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Fruit crusts 4 la Mirabeau (8025) 
Ice cream with white coffee (8460) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Coffee (3701) 





FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


RAT 


Soup 
Cream of Brussels sprouts (250) 


Side Dish 
Rissoles of brains, Princeton (947) 


Fish ; 
Shad, Irish style (1254) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Goose & la Chipolata (1945) 


Entrées 
Carbonnade of mutton 4 la Juvigny (1589) 
Salmis of teal duck a la Harrison (2070) 
Spinach with cream (2820) 
Lima beans (2699) 


Tosca punch (8519) 


Roast ; 
Truffied turkey garnished with black olives 

(2031) 

Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Rice border with bananas (3005) 


Caramel ice cream (3447) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Dessert 


65 


FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Oyster soup with ravioles (337) 


246 


Remove 


Smelts 4 l’ Alexandria (1265) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 
Roast stuffed chicken with tomato Condé sauce 
(1883) 
Mutton cutlets, Russian style (1600) 
Celery stalks half-glaze (2721) 
Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) 


Roast 
Redhead duck (2064) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Cream fritters, Pamela (3013) 


Almond ice cream (3461) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 


Dessert 


i eee OE Oe ee ee 
248 


FEBRUARY, 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
é Adelina (215) 
Side Dish 
Mousseline Waleski (916) 


Fish 
Redsnapper a la Mobile (1235) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Consomm 


Remove 
Quarter of boar, garnished with cutlets and 
breasts marinade sauce (2049) 
Entrées 
Stuffed sweetbreads, Spanish style (1577) 
Chicken fricassee, Bouchard (1862) 
Cauliflower, white sauce (2719) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Rum punch (8510) 


Roast 
Blackhead ducks (2052) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Compiégne with sabayon (3009) 


Jardiniére cutlets ice cream (8555) 
Small fancy cakes (3364) 


Fruits (3699) 
Coffee (3701) 


66 THE EPICUREAN. 


249 FEBRUARY. 250 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
MENU. 
ve Soup 
tee Marshall (328) 
Purée of potatoes, Benton (278) 
Remove 
sie deta Soles & la Normande (1274) 
Redsnapper, Demidoff (1234) Duchess potatoes (2785) 
Entrées Entrées 
Leg of mutton, Bourdaloue (1623) Pullet, English style (1985) 
Baked potatoes (2771) Glazed endive (2740) 
Mutton cutlets, macédoine (1594) 
Braised pullet, modern style (1989) Noodl "1 : 
Boiled cauliflower with white sauce (2719) ootles Talat ee 
Roast 
relents Squabs (2018) 
Larded English partridges (2102) Salad 
Salad , 
Hot Entremets 
Hot Entremets Apple, Nelson (2991) 
Flawn Golden Lion (8035) Cola Hntréneta | 
Cold Entremets Rice a la Mirabeau (32138) 
Strawberry charlotte (3146) Small cakes (3364) 
Fruits (8699) Fruits (3699) 
Dessert . : _- Dessert — 





Py FEBRUARY. 7 252 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. DINNER, 16 to 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Sou ; 
Julienne faubonne (318) 3 onan (296) 
Side Dishes : ; : 
Side Dish 
Attéreaux of sweetbreads a la moderne (841) 
Bried oyster erate’ (1008) | Beef palate crn (875) 
Fish ; _ eigh 
Soles, Venetian style (12°78) Whitefish, pimentade sauce. (1812) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) : Potato cakes (2778) 
Remove Remove 
Rack of lamb larded and roasted with purée | Loin of veal 4 l Ambassade (1534) 
of split peas (1735) £ 
Entrées | Chicken allen ae Cae (1858) 
Escalops of pheasant with olives (2288) PLT 
Stuffed tomatoes, Provengal (2835) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) 
Sweetbreads, Piedmontese style (1563) Terrapin a la Newberg (1086) 
Green peas, English style (2742) American sherbet (352%) 
Loman punch (3515) Torigth 
Roast Ptarmigans (2072) 
Canvasback duck (2055) Escarole salad (2671) 


Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets Hot Entremets 


Spanish pudding (3110) | , Chestnut croquettes (3017) 
Pineapple water-ice (3606) Andalusian ice cream (3446) 
Small cakes (8364) ; Small cakes (3364) 
Dessert 4 _ Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 67 


253 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of beans a la Condé (280) 


Remove 
Fried soles (1280) 


Entrées 


Leg of mutton, Parisian style (1634) 
Celery with béchamel and crotitons (2720) 


Reedbirds vol-au-vent, Diplomate (2407) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Roast 
Redhead ducks (2063) 

Lettuce salad (2672) 

Hot Entremets 
Golden crusts (38021) 


Cold Entremets 
Ministerial pudding (3209) 


Fresh fruits (3699) 
Cheese (3697) 
Coffee (3701) 


O54. FRBRUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Genoa paste soup (339) 


Remove 
Porgies with Chablis wine (1231) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 
Entrées 
Oxtails with glazed vegetables (1325) 


Chickens sautéd a la Nantaise (1896) 
String beans 4 1’ Albani (2825) 


Roast 


Leg of mutton (1633) 
Water-cress salad (2676) 


Hot Entremets 


Glazed apple fritters (3037) 
Rye bread ice cream (3450) 
Fancy cakes (3364) 
Coffee (8701) 





255 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé Bariatenski (219) 


Side Dish 
Attéreaux of turkey (842) 


| Fish 
Pompano a |’ Anthelme (1220) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 


Remove 
~ Chine-of pork 4 la Parmentier (1774) 


, OF Entrées. 
Chicken épigrammes & la Volnay (1833) 
Tomatoes Trévise (2836) 


Tournedos of beef 41a Marietta (1435) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Venetian. sherbet 
Roast ; 
Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2053) 
gee 
Hot Entremets 
Orescents of noodles with cherries (3015) 
Coffee mousse ice cream (3473) 


Small cakes (3364) 
Dessert 


256 FEBRUARY. 


DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Sou 
Hunter’s style (315) 


Side Dish 
Cassolettes Lusigny (860) 


Fish 
Sheepshead a la Meissonier (1260) 


Remove 
Rump of beef, Flemish style (1341) 


Entrées 
Breast of pullet, Macédoine (2002) 
Ravioles 4 la Bellini (2976) 


Mutton cutlets, breaded with purée of truffles 
7 (1599) 
Artichoke (bottoms) 4 la Soubise (2681) 


Prunelle punch (8510) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2063) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Madeira crusts (3026) 


Cold Entremets 
Harrison pudding (3207) 
Small fancy cakes (8364) 

Dessert 


68 THE EPICUREHAN. 
257 FEBRUARY, 958 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Noodles with Parmesan (8380) 


Remove 


Perch with parsley water (1211) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 
Suckling pig with sauerkraut (1811) 
' Spinach 4 la Rougemont (2822) 


Lamb cutlets with mushrooms (1680) 
Small bunches of asparagus (2694) 


Roast 


Squabs (2018) 
Water-cress salad (2676) 


Hot Entremets 
Mundane fritters (8044) 
Stewed fruits (3686) 


Cheese (3697) 
Coffee (3701) 


Small individual soup pots (346) 


Remove 


Baked frostfish (1161) 
Potato croquettes, surprise (2782) 


Entrées 


Leg of mutton a la Bordelaise (1622) 
Spaghetti, Queen style (2968) 


Breasts of pullets 4 la Montmorency (1998) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Roast 


Ptarmigans (2072) 
Celery knob salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Condé peaches (8081) 
Bavarois with Meringues (8188) 
Fruits (8699) 
Dessert 





259 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Shrimps, mignon (345) 


Side Dish 
Colombines of chicken livers with ham (865) 


Fish 
Fried oyster crabs (1005) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef, Neapolitan style (1455) 


Entrées 
Grenades of turkey a la Jules Verne (2035) 
String beans a la Pettit (2827) 


Salmis of pheasants & la Lorenzo (2106) 
Tomatoes & la Boquillon (2838) 


Paquerette sherbet (3527) 


Roast 
Capon (1826) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Pear crusts (3027) 


Ice cream, Ribambelle (3576) 
Small cakes (3364) 
Dessert 


260 FEBRUARY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of Jerusalem artichokes (257) 


Side Dish 
Attéreaux of game (842) 


Fish 
Fillets of soles 4 la Marguery (1278) 
Sarah Potatoes (2802) | 
Remove 
Quarter of veal, Scotch styie (1541) 


Entrées 
Grenadins of beef with round potatoes, Valois 
sauce (1393) 
Chicken quenelles, Bretonne (2328) 


Brussels sprouts, Baroness style (2708) 
Artichokes & la Rachel (2690) 


Mephisto sherbet (8524) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2068) 
Chicory salad (2668) 


Hot Entremets 
Mellow pudding, apricot sauce (8094) 
Frozen Entremets 
Plombiére Montesquieu (3480) 
Small cakes (3364) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 69 


FEVRIER 261 
DINER 14 COUVERTS—A L’ANGLAISE. 
“MENU. 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Comus (226) Chartreuse (297) 
POISSONS. 
Black bass & la Narragansett (1095) Pétoncles 4 la Brestoise (1074) 


‘GROSSE PIECE. 
Jambon roti a la broche sauce madére (1789) 


ENTREES. 
Ailes de poulet 4 l’Epicurienne (1842) Cételettes de mouten a la Nelson (1596) 
Filets de faisan aux truffes (2105) Soufflé de volaille (2359) 
ROTS. 
Canvasback duck (canard sauvage) (2055) Paté de foies gras découpé (2568) 
RELEVES. 
Charlotte de pommes a la Destrey (3007) Pouding Lafayette (3208) 
ENTREMETS, 
Crofites aux champignons (2759) Artichauts 4 la Rachel (2690) 
Tartelettes d’abricots (3402) Gelée au marasquin (3186) 
| Glace Comtesse Leda (8548) 
BUFFET. 

Cotes de bosuf réties 4 l’Américaine (1331) Selle de mouton rétie (1605) | Potage semoule (316) 
Os 4 la moelle sur crofites de pain grillées (1319) Tarte de noix de coco (8200) 
FEVRIER 262 
DINER 20 COUVERTS—A LA RUSSE. 

MENU. 
20 plats d’huitres et citrons (808) 
2 POTAGES. 
1 Brunoise aux quenelles (291) 1 Bisque de homard a la Cambridge (207) 


2 HORS-D’EUVRE CHAUDS. 
2 Palmettes de dinde a la Béarnaise (933) 
2 ENTREES FROIDES. 
1 Aspic de crétes et de rognons de coq ala Mazarin (2410) 1 Salade de poisson (2631) 
2 GROSSES PIECES. 
2 Filets de boeuf A la Godard (1451) 
6 ENTREES (PAR DEUX). 


2 Filets de poularde 4 la Montmorency (1998) 1 Saumon 4 la Victoria (1248) 
2 Ris de veau a la Montpensier (1561) 1 Faisan & la Montebello (2108) 
Sorbet a la prunelle (3510) 


2 PLATS DE ROTI. 
1 de canards 4 téte rouge (2063) 1 de dinde a l’Américaine (2028) Salade laitue (2672) 
4 ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 
2 Tomates frites Ala Gibbons (2841) 2 Haricots verts étuvés (2828) 
6 ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


2 Beignets d’abricots au Marasquin (8039) 
1 Gelée a la Russe (8182) 1 Blane manger Smolenska (8138) 
2 Glaces Plombiére d’Alencon (3483) 


20. THE EPICUREAN. 


FEVRIER 263 


CAREME—DINER 16 COUVERTS—A L’AMERICAINE. 
Sur le milieu de la table une corbeille de fleurs. 
MENU (en maigre). 
BUFFET RUSSE. 
Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Tortue verte au clair (353) | Créme d’asperges St. Vallier (247) 
HORS-D (EUVRE CHAUDS. 
Cromesquis de filet de Bass (870) 
RELEVES. 
Sheepshead au court-bouillon (1262) | Anguille 4 la maréchale (1149) 
Pommes de terre, boules de neige (2798) 
4 ENTREES. 
Yerrapéne ala Maryland Club (1088) Redsnapper & la Chérot (1282) 
Choux fleurs gratinés (2717) Bass rayé a la Maintenon (1105) 
Vol-au-vent de morue (2400) : 
Punch ala Tremiére (3520) 
2 ROTS. 
Sarcelles 4 la gelée de groseilles (2068) Grenouilles a la Orly (1021) Salade de laitue (2672) 
Soufflé au fromage de gruyére (2984) 
ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Crofites aux ananas, sauce abricots (3022) Pouding Boissy (3205) Gelée d’orange en tasses (3180) 
Glaces, Bombe 4 la Trobriand (3440) 
Dessert 
Café (8701) 


os 
Fi RIER 3 264. 
DINER 14 COUVERTS—A L’AMERICAINE. , 
MENU. 
Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Franklyn (233) Tortue verte aux quenelles 4 la moelle (858) 


HORS-D’CQUVRE 
Timbales 4 la Palermitaine (978) 


POISSONS. 
Bass rayé & la Mornay (1107) Crabes d’huttres frits (1005) 
RELEVE. 
Selle d’agneau & la purée de navets (1745) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2704) 
ENTREES. 
Poularde & Divoire aux quenelles décorées (1988) Champignons a la Reynal (2756) 
Ris de veau 4 la Piémontaise (1563) : Tomates a la Reine (2840) 
Punch Elisabeth (3507) 
ROT. 
Ruddy ducks (2066) Salade de chicorée (2668) 


Soufflé au parmesan (2983) 
ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Compiégne au sabayon (3009) 


Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Pouding Valois (8211) 
Glaces, Fiori A la vanille (3469) 
Fruits (3699) Fromages (3697) .  Compotes (8686) 


Café (8701) 


; . 
a SS! mre ee ee | 








_ 


BILLS OF ' FARE. : "1 


265 MARCH. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of larks with chestnuts (281) 


Remove 


Pompano a la Duclair (1222) 
Potatoes boiled with fried bread raspings (2776) 


Entrées 
Breast of veal stuffed and garnished with 
tomatoes (1492) 

Grenadins of tenderloin of beef (1384) 
Timbale of noodles a la Pearsall (2989) 
Asparagus in small bunches (2694) 

S30. Roast - os 

Blackhead ducks (2052) 

Salad . 


Hot Entremets 
Light pancakes with jams (3079) 


Alaska Florida ice cream (3538) 
Dessert 


266 MARCH. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Paillettes (339) 


Remove 
Turbot, caper sauce (1307) 
Mashed potatoes (2798) 
Entrées 
Leg of mutton a la Reglain (1626) 
Braised onions (2765) 


Chicken cromesquis (868) 
Green peas, French style (27438) 
Roast 
Ptarmigans (2072) 
Dandelion salad (2670) 
Hot Entremets 
Apples 4 la Giudici (2990) 


Parisian ice cream (3578) 
Dessert 





267 MARCH. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. - 


MENU.’ 


Soup 
Cream of string beans 4 la Véfour (264) 
Side Dish 
Colombines of fat liver (866) 
Fish 
Halibut with fine herbs 4 la Reynal (1171) 
Snow potatoes (2798) 


Remove 
Rumps of beef a la Chatellier (1339) 
Macaroni a la Brignoli (2958) 
Entrées 
Chieken Championne (1879) 
Carrots with cream (2714) 


Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Fine Champagne sherbet (3510) 


Roast 
Reedbirds (2152) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Italian pudding (3101) 


Cold Entremets. 
(Ice) Nesselrode pudding with candied chest- 
nuts (3495) 
Dessert 


568 3 MARCH. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Green turtle with marrow quenelles (358) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes 4 la Junot (921) 


Fish 
Salmon, Argentine style (1237) 
Potato tartlets (2810) 


Remove 
Loin of beef 4 la Norwood (1348) 
Fedelini Cardinal (2953) 


Entrées 
Lamb minions, cream sauce (1724) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Escalops of liver a la Rulli (2280) 
Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 


Imperial punch (8509) 
Roast 
Capon (1826) 
Corn salad (2669) 


Hot Entremets. 
Rice with apples (8115) 


Parfait coffee ice cream (3479) 
Dessert 


72 THE EPICUREAN. 


569 MARCH. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Tapioca (316) 


Remove 


Fisherman’s Matelote (1205) 
Dauphine potatoes (2788) 


Entrées 


Cases of squabs 4 la Umberto (2234) 

Sweetbreads a la Montpensier (1561) 

Stuffed cauliflower béchamel (2715) 
Francatelli risot (2979) 


Roast 
Loin of mutton on the spit (163%) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 
Hot Entremets 
Chocolate souffié (3119) 


Pineapple water ice (3606) 
Dessert 


270 MARCH 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. - 


MENU. 
Soup 
Cream of carrots with Compiégne croftoxs 
(268) 
Remove 


Paupiettes of herring with milts (1176) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 


Entrées 
Leg of mutton, Roederer style (1627) 
Mushrooms 4 la Dumas (2757) 
Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (205%) 
Roast 
Capon with water-cress (1826) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Zephyr of rice with pineapple (8124) 


Lemon water ice (8604) 
Dessert 





271 MARCH 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Calf’s feet, English style (298) 


Side Dish 
Chicken rissoles (948) 
Fish 
Broiled salmon, Bearnaise sauce (1244) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef & la Melinet (1452) 
Cepes with cream (2724) 


Entrées 
Chicken fillets 4 ’Impératrice (1841) 
String beans a la Bourguignonne (2826) 


Sweetbread cutlets, modern style (2271) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Prumelle punch (3510) 


Roast 
Blackhead ducks (2052) 


Escarole salad (2671) 


Hot Entremets 
Apple charlotte (8008) 


Parfait with nougat (3478) 
Dessert 


272 MARCH. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Hungarian Consommé (2385) 


Side Dish 
Castillane croustades, purée of chestnuts (895) 
Fish 
Flounders a la Dieppoise (1158) 
Potato cakes (2778) 


Remove 


- Hind quarter of lamb With mint sauce (1782) 


Entrées 
Sweetbreads, Monarch style (1570) 
Trévise tomatoes (2836) 


Pigeons, printaniére style (1966) 
Gnocquis timbale a la Choiseul (2987) 


Rebecca sherbet (3528) 


Roast 
Canvasback ducks (2055) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot EHntremets 
Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) 


Italian mousse (8475) 
Dessert 





BILLS 
273 MARCH. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Bisque of oysters 4 la Wilson (210) 


Remove 


Perch with Valois sauce (1209) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Entrées 


Shoulder of lamb with purée of celery (1753) 


Chicken fricassee 4 la Bouchard (1862) 
ffarrots, Colbert style (2711) 


Roast 


Mongrel ducks (1921) 
Monk’s beard salad (2674) 


Entremets 


Strawberry fritters with macaroons (8049) 


Fromage glacé ice cream (3558) 
Dessert 





275 MARCH. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Velvet (356) 


Side Dish 
Attéreaux of beef palates (836) 
Fish 
Canadian turbot a la Houston (1805) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Remove 
Ham a la Benedict (1787) 
Stuffed green peppers (2768) 
Entrées 


Breast of pullet ala Visconti (2001) 
Jerusalem artichokes, Salamander (2749) 


Small vol-au-vent, Parisian style (2406) 
Asparagus, vinaigrette sauce (2692) 
Champagne punch (8504) 


Roast 
Roast saddle of mutton on the spit (1648) 
Chicory salad (2668) 


Hot Entremets 
Meringued apples, Nubian (2996) 


Mignon ice cream (3564) 
Dessert 


OF FARE. 





%3 


274 MARCH. 


DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Cream of rice a la Crémieux (249) 


Remove 
_ Salmon, French style (1241) 
Cucumber salad (2661) 
Entrées 
Capon a la Bressoise (1822) 
Rack of veal 41’ Albani (1542) 


String beans 4 la Pettit (2827) 
Mushrooms a la Raynal (2756) 
Roast 


Teal ducks (2068) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Brioches, St. Mark (38006) 


Strawberry ice cream (3607) 
Dessert 









276 MARCH. 


DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Rice a la Rudini (348) 


Side Dish 
Robertson ham mousseline (915) 


Fish 
Sheepshead, Cardinal sauce (1261) 
Potato fritters (2788) 
Remove 
Oxtails hochepot (1324) 
‘ Stuffed tomatoes, Provencal (2835) 


Entrées 
Squabs, Carolina (2021)) 
Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) 
Veal cutlets. Pogarski (2273) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Scotch Haggis (1640) 
Paquerette sherbet (3527) 
Roast 


Canvasback ducks (2055) 
Celery salad (2660) 
Hot Entremets 
Schiller pudding (8109) 


Mousse Siraudin ice cream (3472) 
Dessert 


4 - tee Se 
Le ce aly: oe t — 
inn’ 4 “ie 
24 | THE EPICUREAN. 
277 ‘MARCH. 278 MARCH. | 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. | MENU. — 
Soup Soup 


Cream of leeks with quenelles (253) 


Remove 


Flounders a la Jules Janin (1156) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Entrées 
Loin of lamb with sautéd tomatoes (1718) 
Baked stuffed eggplant (2738) 


Boar saddle with gravy (2050) 


artichoke (bottoms) with cauliflower (2685) 


Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 


Rice croquettes with orange raspberry sauce 


(8018) 


Fiori di latte, Bellini ice cream (3467) 
Dessert 





279 MARCH. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 


Cream of green peas a la’St. Germain (260) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes of fat liver, Delmontés (925) 
Fish 
Canadian turbot & la Mercier (1306) 
Boiled potatoes, English style (2774) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef with vegetables (1466) 
Timbales of chicory with cream (2728) 


Entrées 
Lamb cutlets 4 la Victor Hugo (1689) 
String beans 4 l’Albani (2825) 


Paté a la Richelieu (2310) 
Maraschino punch (3510) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2068) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Coupole Madison (3029) 


(Iced) Fleury pudding (3498) 
Dessert 





Purée of chicken 4 la Reine (270) 


Remove 
Pike perch a la Geraldin (1215) 
Potato cakes with ham (2779) 
Entrées 


Capon a la Pondichery (1824) 
Kernel of mutton, Milanese (1630) 


Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) 
Mushrooms a la Rivera (2758) 


Roast 


Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2058) 


Celery, Mayonnaise (2660) 
Hot Entremets 


Mirlitons of pears, bienvenue (3054) 


Sicilian pudding ice cream (3499) 
Dessert 


2QRO MARCH, _ 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. - 
MENU. 


Soup 
D‘Osmont (306) 
Side Dish 
Turbigo patties (941) 


Fish 
Pompano a la Carondelet (1221) 
Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) 


_ Remove 
Saddle of veal with lettuce (1545) 


Ravioles a la Bellini (2976) 


Entrées 
Chicken poéled a la Stuyvesant (1911) 


Sweet potatoes with lobster coral (2830) 
Thrush pudding (2324) 
American sherbet (3521) 

Roast 
English pheasants (2107) 
Lettuce salad with anchovies (2673) 


Hot Entremets 
Franklyn pudding (3098) 


(Iced) Plombiére, Havanese style (3484) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 763 


MARS. 281 
DINER, 12 COUVERTS—A L’AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 
Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Florentine (232) Créme d’asperges & la St. Vallier (24%) 


HORS-D’UVRE. 
Timbales a l’Arlequin (967) 
POISSON. 
Filets de bass 4 la Conti (1102) Pommes de terre Dauphine (2783) 


RELEVE. 
Selle d’agneau Chanceliére (1739) Fonds d’artichauts a la Villars (2682) 


ENTREES. 
Faisan piqué aux truffes (2111) Ris de veau a la Théodora (1568) 


Macédoine de légumes 4 la Montigny (2755) ~ Tomates farcies aux champignons (2842) 
Vol-au-vent aux huitres (2402) 
Punch & la Bouquetiére (3503) 


ROT. 
Poularde truffée (1992) 


FROID. 
Terrine de foies de canards a l’Aquitaine (2596) Salade de laitue (2672) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 
Gelée aux Reines-Claude (3187) Bavarois & la vanille (3135) 
Gateau Compiégne (3236) Cornets a la Creme a l’orange (3148) 
Glaces Plombiére a la Havanaise (3484) 
Fruits (8699) Petits fours (3364) Café (8701) 


ay 


MARS. 282 
DINER, 12 COUVERTS—A L’AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 
Huitres (803) 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Andalouse (216) Bisque d’écrevisses 4 la Persigny (204) 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Bouchées aux crabes d’huitres (935). 


POISSONS. 
Pompano a la Mazarin (1224) _—_ Blanchaille frite 4 la Diable (1310) 


RELEVE. 
Selle d’agneau 4 la Frangaise (1744) Choux fleurs au fromage gratinés (2717) 


ENTREES. 
Mignons de filet de boeuf Baillard (1400) __ Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) 
Timbale de volaille Parisienne (2382) 
Asperges a la vinaigrette (2692) 


Sorbet, jeune Amérique (3530) 
ROTS. 
Poules de neige (2072) Mésanges moustache (2152) 


FROID. 
Bordure de foies-gras (2483) —_ Salade de laitue (2672) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Beignets alliance (8036) 


Gelée d’orange en tasses (3180) Brisselets & la creme framboisée (8223) 
Glaces, plum pouding (3496) 
Dessert Café (3701) 


%6 THIE EPICUREAN. 


MARS. 233 
DINER DE 40 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE. 
MENU. 
Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 


Consommé & la Noailles (237)  Chiffonade aux crofites (258) 
HORS-D’UVRE. 
Timbales & la Lombarde (972) __ Bressoles de gibier (847) 
POISSONS. 
Redsnapper a la Oréquy (1233)  Aiguillettes de maquereaux 4 la Bonnefoy (1191) 
RELEVE. 
Selle d’agneau 4 la Brighton (1738) 

ENTREES. 


Ris de veau & la St. Laurent (1567) —_‘ Filets de poulet: 4 la Maréchale (1848) 
Terrapéne a la Maryland Club (1088) — Soufflé de faisans 4 la Andrews (2365) 


ROTS. 
Poulets rétis 4 la casserole (1881) Mésanges moustache (2152) 
LEGUMES. 
Macédoine a la Montigny (2755) Céleri frit 4 la Villeroi (2722) 
| ENTREMETS. 
Biscuits Frascati (8004) Charlotte de pommes Calville (3148) 
Gelée aux ananas Californienne (3178) Couronne a la Choiseuil (8154) 


Glaces et Dessert 


$$ $5 <<< —____— 
MARS. 284 
DINER DE 20 COUVERTS—(A LA FRANCAISE). 
MENU. | 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Adélina (215) Purée de lucines 4 la Hendrick (197) 


GROSSES PIECES, 
Bass rayé @ la Rouennaise (1108) Filet de boeuf & la Baréda (1442) 


ENTREES. 


Cotelettes d’agneau a la Leverrier (1677) ae 
Ailes de poulet la Villeroi (1857) Ris de veau a la Binda (1551) 
Terrapéne a la Orisfield (1084) 
Petits vol-au-vent d’huitres, Maintenon (2405) 
Aspic de homards (2414) 


ROTS. 
Pigeonneaux rotis & la casserole (2018) Canards sauvages (tétes rouges) (2068) 
ENTREMETS. 
Tomates farcies aux champignons frais (2842) Epinards & la Rougemont (2822) 


Beignets soufflés Médicis (8047) 
Gelée & orange en tasses (3180) Bavarois au chocolat (8181) Flan aux poires (3175) 
Dessert 





BILLS 


285 APRIL, 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Fish chowder a la Stebens (801) 


Remove 


Cutlets of kingfish, Mayonnaise mousseline 
(2260) 


Entrées 
Shoulder of lamb a la Benton (1748) 
Spaghetti macaronia la Salvini (2969) 


Thrushes in the saucepan (2165) 
Okra garnished with barley béchamel crous- 
tades (2763) 


Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Fried cream 4 la Maintenon (8010) 


Vanilla ice cream, Italian meringue (3458) 
Stewed fruits (3686) 
Nuts and raisins (3699) 
Dessert 


OF: FARE. we 
286 APRIL. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Pilaff, Turkish style (341) 


Removes 
Smelts in dauphins 4 la Hamlin (1270) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Top round of beef, Parisian style (1336) 
Cabbage, Peasant style (2706) 


Entrée 
Pigeons poéled, Lombardy style (1960) 
Quartered artichokes with marrow (2688) 


Roast 


Ducks (1921) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Pancakes of peach marmalade macédoine (8075) 


Small cream biscuits (3137) 
Cheese (3697) 
Fruits (3699) 

Dessert 





287 APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Noques (858) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes, Varsovian style (924) 


Fish 
Pompano, tomato sauce (1228) 
Potato fritters (2788) 


Remove 
Boiled ham a la Leonard (1788) 
Spinach a la Noailles (2821) 


Entrées 
Noisettes of tenderloin of beef 41a Bonnefoy 
(1412) 
Artichoke bottoms, Soubise (2681) 


English pheasants 4 la Périgueux (2109) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Siberian punch (3516) 
Roast 


Ruddy ducks (2066) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Cabinet pudding with sabayon (3096) 


(Iced) Mousse with cordials (3476) 
Dessert 


288 APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Sou 
Rémusat consommé (240) 


Side Dish 
Renaissance timbales (981) 


Fish 
Striped bass, Hollandaise sauce (1110) 
Boiled potatoes persillade (2774) 


Remove 
Capons a l’Amphitryon (1821) 
Mushrooms with thickened butter (2760) 


a 


Entrées 
Minions of tenderloin of beef 4 la Meyerbeer 
(1404) 


Green peas, English style (2742) 
Shells of chicken 41a Shaw (2344) 
Californian sherbet (3528) 
Roast 


Pullets (1996) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Humboldt pudding (3100) 


(Iced) Alengon plombiére (3483) 
Dessert 


ae “ow 4 
Nea ie exo ome 
—%8 . JPA E EPICURBAN. es ies i ae 
289 APRIL, 290 APRIL. : : 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. _ DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. a, | MENU. 
Soup | Soup . 
Pot au feu (342) : Champétre (296) 
Remove : Remove - 
Spotted fish with green ravigote sauce (1286) Fillets of soles A la Richelieu (1275) 
Mashed potatoes (2798) Mellow potatoes (2799) 
. Entrées Entrées 
Braised leg of mutton with rice (1636) Chicken fricassee with crustacean sauce (1867) 
Artichoke bottoms a la Villars (2682) String beans a |’Albani (2825) i: 
Baked thrushes (2164) | Larded veal cutlets with chicory (1500) 
String beans a la Bourguignonne (2826) Fried-oyster-plant (2817) 
Roast : Roast 
Chickens (1881) | Teal ducks (2068) 
Tomato salad (2666) Salad 
Hot Entremets | ' Hot Entremets 
Roman Triumvirate fritters (3050) | Apple fritters with kirsch (8038) 
Strawberry water ice (3607) Ice cream with orange-flower water (3459) | 
Fruits (38699) Fruits (3699) 
Small fancy cakes (8364) _ Cheese (3697) 
Coffee (3701) — Coffee (8791) 





291 APRIL. 992 APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. | MENU. 
Soup Oysters (803) 
Clear mock turtle (354) Soup 
Ponsardin fish (808) 
a Side Dish Side Dish 
ontage a la Flavignan (907 tae 18 
: ee La Valliare timbales (971) 
Fish ; 
Trout, Joan of Are (1294) ‘ Fish 
Snow potatoes (2798) Shad with sorrel purée (1256) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 
Remove Se : 
Turkey grenades a la Jules Verne (2035) ; Remove 
Turnips with Allemande sauce (2848) Saddle of mutton, German style (1645) _ 
} Beets with cream (2702) 
Entrées ; 
’ Round bottom fricandeau of veal with gravy co Entrées — 
(1548) Duck a la Matignon (1918) 
Spinach with cream (2820) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) 
Artichoke bottoms with eauli _ Sweetbreads ala St. Cloud (1566) — 
i a SR PRU Omen) String beans with: butter (2829) 
Béatrice Punch (3502) Prunelle punch (3510) 
Roast 
¥ Roast 
aang eos (2063) Pullets with water-cress (1996) 
. Salad 
Hot Entremets ; 
SL ATG LT : . Hot Enitremets 
Zephyr of rice with pineapple (3124) Bananas fried with cherries (3008) 
(Iced) Cavour pudding (3489) ~ (Iced) Rice & la Ristori (3577) 


Dessert Dessert, 





BILLS OF FARE. 79 


293 APRIL 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 


Purée of oatmeal, Toulousaine (275) 


Remove 


Fillet of salmon trout a l’Antoinette (1302) 
- Potatoes, Vienna style (2812) 


Entrées 


Calf’s head in tortue (1517) 
Chicken sautéd a la Madeleine (1891) 
Jerusalem artichokes 4 la Salamander (2749) 
Asparagus a la Maintenon (2695) 


Roast 


Pheasants (2107) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 


Mirabeau crusts with fruits (3025) 
Custard cream with caramel (3161) 
Dessert. 





9395 APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS 
MENU. 
Oysters (803) 


Soup 
Vermicelli (339) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes of Guinea fowl a la Paladio (926) 


_. Fish 
Soles 4 la Trouville (1277) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 


_ Remove 
Breast of ‘veal 4 la Mondoux (1488): 
Sorrel with gravy (2818) 


Entrées 
Satins of teal duck a la Harrison (2070) 
Oyster-plant, fine herbs (2817) 
Coquilles a la Benoiton (2839) 


Rum punch (351 0) 


Roast 
Spring turkey with: water-cress (2044) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entr emets 
Savarin with apricots (3117) 


Valence coe with peaches, ice cream (3587) 
toe Small faney cakes (8364). 
- Dessert 


294. APRIL. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Giblet 4 la Réglain (811) 
Remove 


- Chicken halibut, carrot sauce (1173) 
- Potato tartlets (2810) 


Entrées 
Leg of mutton, Granville (1628) 
Ducklings with oronges (1948) 


Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 
String beans, with butter (2829) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2068) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Flawn a la Manhattan (8034) 
Stewed fruits (3686) _ 


- Cheese (3697) 
Dessert | 


296 APRIL 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Lobster, Duke pecs (321) 
Side Dish 
Lombardy Timbales (972) 


Fish 
Shad a la Evers with shad roe croquettes (1252) 
Broiled potatoes with fried bread (2776) 


, Remove 
Virginia ham with stringed eggs (1792) 
Artichoke bottoms @ la Villars (2682) 


Entrées 


Noisettes of tenderloin of beef 4 la Magny 


_ (1414) 
Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) 
Chicken boudins a l’Ecarlate (2214) 


Paradise sherbet (3525) 
Roast 


- Capon (1826) 
Salads. 


Hot Entremets 
Pineapple Carolina (3090) - 


Alaska Florida ice cream (3538) 
Dessert 


80 THE EPICUREAN. 


APRIL. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Sago (316) 


297 


Remove 


Weakfish a la Brighton (1308) 
Potatoes with melted butter (2790) 


Entrées 
Rack of lamb with sautéd artichokes (1734) 
Cutlets of chicken a la Clarence (2258) 


Baked stuffed eggplant (2738) 
Boquillon tomatoes (2833) 


Roast 


Turkey (2028) 
Chicory salad (2668) 


Hot Entremets 
Fried bananas, cherry sauce (8008) 


Parisian ice cream (8578) 
Fruits (8699) 
Small fancy cakes (8364) 
Coffee (8701) 


APRIL. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of crabs, Stevens (199) 


298 


Remove 


Sturgeon with quenelles and olives (1289) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Entrées 
Grenadins of tenderloin of beef 4 la Beau- 
marchais (13885) 
Red cabbage a la Montargis (2707) 


Border of risot of lobster (2218) 
Artichokes & la Rachel (2690) 
Roast 
Mallard ducks (2059) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Orange fritters 4 la Talleyrand (8045) 
(Iced) Pudding Duchess (3492) 
Fruits (8699) 


Cheese (8697) 
Coffee (3701) 





399 APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Sowp 
Consommé 4 la Grammont (234) 


Side Dish 
Cromesquis of scallops (878) 
Fish 


Small trout au bleu (1297) 
Potato cakes (2778) 


Remove 
Ham with spinach (1791) 
Onions, Hollandaise sauce (2764) 


Entrées 
Breast of chicken, Mexican style, in papers 
(1859) 
Carrots, Colbert style (2711) 


Tourte of chicken (2391) 
Sorbet Young America (8580) 


Roast 
Ruddy ducks (2066) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Pancake sticks Royeaux (8076) 


(Iced) Constantine bomb (3489) 
Dessert 


' APRIL. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


300 


: Soup. 
Cream of cauliflower, Brisson (251) 
Side Dish 
Rissoles & la Demidoff€ (950) 
Fish 
Stuffed trout (1301) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Remove 
Turkey with white oyster sauce (2082) 
Artichoke bottoms 4 la Florence (2677) 


Entrées 
Fillet of lamb, Printaniére (1726) 
Spaghetti 4 la Laurence (2966) 


Pigeons with crawfish (1968) 
Stuffed lettuce with half-glaze sauce (2758) 


Punch Elizabeth (3507) 
Roast 
Canvasback ducks (2055) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Madison Cupola (3029) 


(Iced) Vermeil globules 4 la Damseaux (8588) 
Dessert 


BinUs OF FARE: | | 81 


AVRIL. 301 
DINER, 14 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE. 
MENU. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Royale (241) Créme de laitues a la Evers (258) 


POISSON. 
Bass rayé sauce crevettes aux petoncles frits (1111) Croquettes de pommes de terre (2782) 
GROSSE PIECE. 
Selle d’agneau a la Frangaise (1744) Carottes aux fines herbes (2712) 
ENTREES, 
Ailes de poulet 4 la Harrison (1844) Ris de veau a la Conti (1554) 
Vol-au-vent Delmontés (2403) Terrapéne 4 la Maryland Club (1088) 


ROTS. | 
Dinde a l’Américaine (2028) Salade de cresson et pommes (2676) F 


RELEVES. 
Dampfnouilles 4 la créme (3030) Souffié au chocolat (chaud) (3119) 


ENTREMETS. 
Tomates farcies 4 la Provengale (2835) Macaroni au gratin (2959) 
Bordure Caroline au champagne (froid) (3140) Gelée de kirsch aux fruits (3187) 
Gaufres roulées, creme au curagoa (3224) Tartelettes de Valence (3336) 
; (BUFFET). 
Aloyau a la Norwood (1348) Selle de mouton rétie (1648) | Yorkshire pudding (770) 
Pommes tartelettes (2810) Tarte Condé (3220) Potage d’orge au céleri (285) 


> -_--___ -___--__. 
AVRIL : 302 
DINER 14 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 
Petit Buffet Russe. 


Haut Sauterne Huitres (803) 


POTAGES. 
Sherry Consommé printanier aux qnenelles (239) 
Créme d’oseille aux ceufs farcis (262) 


HORS-D’UVRE CHAUD. 
Timbales des Gourmets (966) 


Niersteiner POISSON. 

Truites 4 l’Hoteliére (1292) 
Champagne Pommery RELEVE. 

Poularde farcie a la Parisienne (1990) Céleri 4 la Villeroi (2722) 
St. Julien Supérieur ENTREES. 


Grenadins de filet de veau, sauce tomate Argentine (1507) 
Haricots verts au beurre (2829) 


Vol-au-vent 4 la Financiére (2396) 
Petits pois 4 la Frangaise (2748) 


Sorbet a la prunelle (3510) 


Romanée ROTS. 
Canards a téte rouge (2063) 
Petits aspics de foies gras (2412) 
Salade de laitue (2672) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Pouding de Cabinet a la Royale (chaud) (8095) 


Suédoise de pommes (8218) Timbale de gaufres (3222) 
Charlotte Russe (8145) Gelée Macédoine au champagne (3179) 
Champagne PIECES MONTEES. 
Cliquot dowsx Bateau Bon Voyage (3631) 
Panier de Perrette (8629) 
Apollinaris Glaces Cygne aux roseaux (3597) 


Fruits (3699) Café (8701) Petits fours (3364) 





$2 THE KPICUREAN. 


AVRIL 830838 
| DINER 200 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE. 
Société St. George. 
MENU. 
Haut Sauterne Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Souveraine (248) Créme d’asperges aux pointes d’asperges (248) 
Amontillado HORS-D'EUVRE. , 3 
Timbales 4 la Sartiges (984) 


Johannisberger POISSONS. 


Gold seal Bass rayé a la Laguipierre (1108) 
: Blanchaille frite 4 la mode de Greenwich (1310) 


Cliquot sec RELEVE. 
Baron de boeuf a la St. George (1318) Pommes roties (2771) 
Chateau Laffitte ENTREES. 
Chapon & la Régence (1825) Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) 
Sorbet Rébecca (3528) 
Clos Vougeot ROT. 
Pigeonneaux rotis a la casserole (2018) Salade d’escarole (2671) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Plum pudding au rhum (chaud) (3103) 
Apollinaris Charlotte Russe (3145) 
Glaces (3538) —- Fruits (3699) Petits fours (8364) Café (8701) 


ole x : 
AVRIL 304 
DINER 10 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA FRANCAISE. 


‘MENU. 


DEUX POTAGES. 
Le Consommé Balzac (218) La créme de haricots flageolets (259) 


DEUX RELEVES DE POISSON. : 
Les filets de saumon 4 la d’Artois (1238) La Matelote des Canotiers (1203) 


DEUX GROSSES PIECES. | 
La noix de veau & la Duchesse (1520) Les filets de poularde a la Varsovienne (2000) 
QUATRE ENTREES. 
Les ris de veau a la Bussy (1552) La fricassée de poulet au kari (1868) 
Les petits patés au jus (2318) Les boudins de kingfish 4 la Poniatowski (2220) 


DEUX PLATS DE ROTS. 
Les faisans Anglais (2107) Les sarcelles (2068) 


DEUX RELEVES DU ROTS. 
La Charlotte de pommes a la Destrey (chaud) (3007) Les Gufs ala creme au café meringués (3033) 


QUATRE ENTREMETS. 
Les épinards a l'Anglaise (2823) Les concombres panés et frits (2732) 
Les Buissons de meringues (3212) Les péches & la Louvoisienne (8198) 
Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 


DINER, 100 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LAMERICAINE, 


MENU. 
Lucines orangées (808) 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Sévigné (242) 
Bisque de crabes orientale (200) 


HORS-D’CUVRE. 


Timbales 4 la Vénitienne (989) 


POISSONS. 


Saumon, sauce Marinade (1245) 
~ Soles & la Normande (1274) 
Pommes de terre Dauphine (2783) 


RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf a la Mélinet (1452) 
Risot a la Ristori (2980) 


ENTREES. 


Poulet sauté 4 la Nantaise (1896) 
Petits pois 4 la Francaise (2743) 
Ris de veau a la Piémontaise (1563) 
Tomates en caisses gratinées (2839) 


Asperges bouillies, sauce créme (2692) 


Punch & la Tosca (3519) 


ROTS. 
Bécassines (2159) 
Paté de foies-gras découpé (2562) 
Salade de laitue (2632) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Pouding léger aux amandes (3112) 
Gelée aux framboises (3183) 
Piéces Montées (3628) 
Glace Plombiére aux cerises (3485) 
Fruits (38699) Fromages (3697) Cormpote (3686) 
Petits fours (8364) Café (8701) 


"93 
305 















} as 


Premier Service. 8 


Potage Westmoreland (357) | | | Ae K i 
-Consommé a la Daumont 28) 
ts madannrner 4 la Princesse (1236) ee Bae: ia ee 
Selle d’agneau de aR tieshies Ala Ohaneelitre ara) 
Faisan anglais 4 la Montebello (2108) 
Vol-au-vent le grenouilles (2401) 


Pigeonneau & la Crispi ens) 


Timbales des Gourmets (900) ; 
Paté chaud de ris de veau a la McAllister (2818) 


Deuxiéme Service. 


Mauviettes rdties (2152) 


Chapon roti (1826) 
Oardons & la demi-glace (2710) — 


Petits pois 4 Anglaise (2742) 
Pouding a la Franklyn (8098) 
Gateau Mandarin (8245) ~ oat 
Charlotte a la Russe ee 


By e @A ° 
“)" Troisiéme Service. 


Corbeilles de fruits frais (3699) 
Compotes de pommes 4 la gelée (3686) Bonbons (8640) 
Glace créme pralinée & Vangélique (8455) . 
Glace orange 4 l’eau (3605) 


BILLS OF FARE. 85 


MAL 307 
DINER, DE 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA BUSSE. 


MENU. 


HORS-D’CUVRE. 
Radis (808) Olives (800) Caviar (778) Beurre frais moulé (775 
Huitres marinées (802) 


Lucines .(803) 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Berry (220) Créme de concombres, Sheppard (254) 


HORS-D’EUVRE. 
Palmettes de jambon a l’Aquitaine (927) 
Timbales 4 la Dumas (965) 


POISSONS. 
Alose Bruxelloise (1253) Saumon & la Daumont (1239) 


RELEVES. 
Selle d’agneau a la Chanceliére (1739) 
Canetons & l’Andalouse (1980) 


ENTREES. 
Ris de vean 4 l’Ecarlate (1555) Filets de poulet a la Primatice (1851) 
Foie gras de Strasbourg (2562) Turban de homard (2394) 


Punch @ la Favorite (3508) 


ROTS. 
Pigeonneaux (2018) Poulardes truffées (1992) 


LEGUMES. 
Asperges Comtesse (2693) Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Charlotte de pommes (3008) Beignets d’ananas, Singapour (3046) 
Gelée aux mirabelles (3187) Bavarois 4 la Vanille (3135) 
a 
FLANCS. 
Gateau 4 la Reine (8256) «Vacherin Sultane (8264) 
DESSERT. 
Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (3653) Fruit confits (3679) 


Fruits frais (8699) Compotes de pommes a la gelée (3686) 


ee 
| Tee eae) a 


a | THE nee 





DINER, DE 80 COUVERTS—SERVICE A VANGLAISE. 
MENU. 


POTAGES. 


Tortue verte au clair (353) . 
-Créme de mais 4 la Hermann (255) 


POISSONS. 





Tranches de saumon 4 la aides (1242) 
Fricandeau d’esturgeon aux petits on (2298) a 


RELEVES. 


Selle d’agneau 4 la Paganini (1741) ue 
Pointe de culotte de boeuf 4 la mode bonny se 190) 


ENTREES. 


Epigrammes d’agneau & la Toulouse (1694) Quenelles de volaille a la Richelieu 
Rissolettes 4 la Pompadour (956) 7 
Noix de veau au jus lié (1521) Hi 
Cotelettes de mouton a la Taverne (1592) Rissolettes 4 la Pompadour (956) % Ae 
Quenelles de volaille 4 la Richelieu (2327) Epigrammes d’agneau la Toulouse ¢| 


Pigeonneaux rotis & la casserole (2018) Salmis de canetons (1940) c im 


ENTREMETS. 


Asperges sauce Hollandaise (2692) Créme de homard (2470) ; 
Mazarines 4 l’ananas et au kirsch (8058) Gelée macédoine au champagne (31 
Crémes frites Paméla (3018) ; Crémes frites Paméla (3013) a . 
Gelée macédoine au champagne (8179) Mazarines a Vananas (3653) : 2 
Oréme de homard (2470) Asperges sauce Hollandaise (2692) 


PIECES MONTEES, 


Le moulin & vent (8639) Vases en sucre filé (8 


RELEVES, ye 
Gateau Chamounix (3285) _ Jambon au supréme (3255) — 


BILLS 


309 


MAY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé Célestine (223) 


Remove 


Porgy a4 la Manhattan (1229) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 


Duckling 4 la Grainville, larded (1933) 
Grenadins of beef, Prévillot (1391) 


Sweet peppers sautéd (2769) 
Oyster plant a la poulette (2817 
Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
Water-cress and apple salad (2676) 
Hot Entremets 
Countess pudding (3097) 


Stewed fruits (8686) 
Nuts and raisins 
Dessert 


OF FARE. 87 
310 MAY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Lazagnette (339) 


Remove 
Fried brook trout (1299) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 
Entrées 


Shoulder of lamb a la Dessaix (1749) 
Salpicon of chicken, baked (2338) 


Artichoke bottoms with marrow (2687) 
Turnips with béchamel (2848) 
Roast 
Duckling (1938) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 


Rice with apples (8115) 
Burnt almond ice cream with Angelica (3455) 
Dessert 





MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


311 


Soup 
Bisque of crawfish (201) 
Side Dish 
Turbigo patties (941) 
Fish 
Brook trout, Miller style (1295) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Remove 
Pullet, ancient style (1984) 
Carrots, Colbert (2711) 
Entrées 
Blanquette of breast of veal a la Jacquart 
(1490) 
Stuffed cos-lettuce a la Rudini (2816) 


Escalops of tenderloin of beef with truffies 
(2276) 

Tomatoes 4 la Boquillon (2833) 
Pargny punch (3514) 
Roast 
Turkey (2028) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Figaro timbale (3123) 

Cold Entremets 
Strawberry, Charlotte (3146) 
(Iced) Parfait with coffee (8479) 
Dessert 


MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


312 


Soup 
Montorgueil (326) 
Side Dish 
Isabella mousseline (912) 
Fish 
Flounders a la Joinville (1155) 
Potato cakes (2778) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef a la Travers (1460) 
Stuffed cabbage ballotine (2705) 
Entrées 
Lamb cutlets a la Giralda (1676) 
Mushrooms a la Reynal (2756) 


Vol-au-vent of frogs and soubise eggs (2401) 
Andalouse sherbet (3522) 


Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Apple pain with vanilla (2997) 


Cold Entremets 
(Iced) Mousse with chestnuts (3477) 
Dessert 


gO i be =a, ee 
oo | a 
88 | THE EPICUREAN. 
313 MAY. 314 MAY. ; 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. _ DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. - MENU. 
ee Soup 


Barch, Polish style (286) 


Remove 


Mackerel, arrowroot mayonnaise sauce (1303) 
Cucumbers (2661) 


Entrées 


Duckling 4 la Lyonnaise (1934) 
Minions of fillets of veal with mushrooms 
(1510) 


Green peas with lettuce (2746) 
Artichoke bottoms a la Montglas (2679) 


Roast 
Ptarmigan (2072) 
Macédoine salad (2650) 
Hot Entremets 
Pudding soufflé with hazelnuts (3114) 


(Iced) Rice with citron garnished with truffles 
(3457) 
Dessert 


Cream of asparagus, crotitons souffiés (248) 


Remove 


Angel fish 4 la Bahama (1094) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Entrées 
Broiled rack of lamb, Castillane sauce (1788) 
Chicken fricassee 4 la favorite (1864) 


Carrots stewed with cream (2714) 
Head of asparagus, Countess style (2698) 
Roast 
Squabs (2018) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Brioches St. Mark (8006) 


Vanilla ice cream (8458) 
Dessert 





. 3815 MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Monteille (325) 


Side Dish 
Timbales 4 la Duchesse (964) 


Fish 
Brook trout 4 la Hussarde (1298) 
Potato tartlets (2810) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef & la Bienvenue (1445) 
Glazed turnips (2847) 


Entrées 
Breast of chicken with cucumbers (1860) 


Lamb sweetbreads & la financiére (1760) 


Carrots, Viennese (2718) 
Punch Elizabeth (3507) 


Roast 
Pheasant (2107) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Plumerey pudding (3104) 
Cold Entremets. 
Bain-marie cream molded (3149) 
(Iced) Spongade a la Médicis (3536) 
Dessert 


316 > Maasai 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


— Soup 
Consommé, Dubarry (229) 


Side Dish 
Bressoles of fat liver (848) 
Fish | 
Pompano & la Toulouse (1227) 
Mashed potatoes (2798) 


Remove 
Squabs & la Crispi (2008) 
Fried hops (2748) 
Entrées 


Timbale of sweetbreads, modern style (2388) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Breast of chicken 4 la Cussy (1888) 
Mushrooms in cases with Madeira (2762) 


Venetian sherbet (3529) 


Roast 
Turkey (2028) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Rice pudding a la Bagration (8105) 
Cold Entremets 
Cream Flamri (3167) 


(Iced) Souffié & lAleazar (3538) 
Dessert 





SPeTeSIOn TARE: . . 89 


S17 MAY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of crabs (198) 


Remove 
Porgy 4 la Manhattan (1229) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 


Entrées 
Tenderloin steak with mushrooms (1427) 
Asparagus tips 4 la Maintenon (2695) 


Lobster 4 la Dugléré (10381) 
Risot Francatelli (2979) 


Roast 
Ptarmigan (2072) 
Cabbage salad (2659) 


Hot Entremets 
Grenades with cherries (8052) 


(Iced) Biscuit pudding (8488) 
Fresh fruits (3699) 
Cheese (8697) 

Small fancy cakes (3364) 
Bonbons (38640) 
Dessert 


318 MAY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bragance (290) 


Remove 


Halibut 4 la Kadgiori (1170) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 


Entrées 


Leg of lamb a la Bercy (1705) 
Lettuce braised with gravy (2754) 


Breast of pigeons, Hunter’s style (1968) 
String beans a |’ Albani (2825) 


Roast 
Pullet with water-cress (1996) 


Hot Entremets 


Apple ‘‘ pain’ with vanilla (2997) 
Chocolate ice cream (8449) 
Dessert 


a a 


319 MAY. 
DINNER, 16 to 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Fresh butter (775) 


Soup. 
Consommé Duchess (230) 


Side Dish 
Chicken quenelles a la Richelieu (2327) 
Fish 
Striped bass a la Berey (1101) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Radishes (808) 


Remove 
Rump of beef 4 la Caréme (1338) 
Beets with butter (2702) 


Entrées 
Cutlets of chicken a la Adolph Hardy (2257) 
Green peas, French style (2748) 


Vol-au-vent a la Financiére (2396) 
Méphisto sherbet (3524) 
Roast 


Chicken in the saucepan (1881) 
Italian salad (2635) 


Hot Entremets 
Rice pudding with strawberry sauce (3106) 


Ice cream corn on cob (3547) 
Dessert 


320 MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Olives (800) Gherkins (785) 
Soup 
Gumbo with soft shell crabs (314) 
Side Dish 
Croustades, Perretti (900) 
Fish 


Bluefish & la Barnave (1117) 
Potatoes with melted butter (2790) 


Remove 
Tenderloin steak with truffles (1429) 
Eggplant a la Duperret (2735) 


Entrées 
Chicken fricassee 4 la Chevaliére (1863) 
Cauliflower fried with bread-crumbs (2718) 


Lamb cutlets a la Giralda (1676) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Tremiere punch (8520) 


Roast 
Duckling (1938) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Ferriére pears (3085) 
Pistachio ice cream (8454) 
Dessert 


90 THE EPICUREAN. 


321 MAY. 
DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Gluten (816) 


Remove 


Brook trout, Court-bouillon (1298) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 
Breast of veal, housekeeper’s style (1493) 
String beans 4 la Pettit (2827) 


Young pigeons, English style (2014) 
Onions with soubise sauce (2764) 


Roast 


Ptarmigan (2072) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Mirabeau crusts with fruits (3025) 


(Iced) Plombiére, Havanese (8484) 
Small fancy cakes (8364) 
Bonbons (8642) 





323 MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Sowp 
Crawfish 4 la Renommée (304) 


Side Dish 
Timbales a la Montgomery (975) 


Fish 
Fillets of weakfish 4 la Pontigny (1809) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef with chicory and souffiéd sweet 
potatoes (1356) 
Stuffed peppers (2768) 


Entrées 
Breasts of chicken a la Lorenzo (1845) 
Oyster plant with fine herbs (2817) 


Vol-au-vent, ancient style (2398) 
Punch Bouquetiére (3508) 


Roast 
English pheasant (2107) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Baba marsala (3002) 


(Ices) Fiori di latte Bellini (3467) 
Dessert 


399 MAY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé Balzac (218) 


Remove 


Trout a la Beaufort (1290) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 


Entrées 


Duckling fillets 4 la macédoine (1935): 
Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) 


Lamb cutlets 4 la Victor Hugo (1689) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Manhattan flawn (8034) 
Bain-marie cream with virgin coffee (8162) 


Dessert 
Assorted salted almonds (8696) 


———— _____—____> 


324 MAY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Quenéfes (358) 
Side Dish 
Patties with mushrooms (987) 
Fish 


Baked paupiettes of soles 4 l’Italienne (1279) 


Broiled potatoes with fried bread (2776) 


Remove 
Pullet ala Arco Valley (1971) 


Cucumbers breaded and fried, English style: 


(2782) 


Entrées 


Minions of tenderloin of beef with cépes. 


Bordelaise (1408) 
Stuffed green peppers (2768) 


Squabs a la Vestale (2022) 
Fried asparagus tips, Miranda (2696) 
Montmorency punch (3512) 


Roast 
Turkey (2028) 
Salad * 


Hot Entremets 
Frascati biscuit (3004) 


(Iced) Diplomate pudding (8491) 
Dessert 








BILLS OF FARE. 


DINER DE 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE. 
MENU. 


Lucines orangées (808) 


POTAGES. 


Moselle Berncastle Consommé Caréme (222) 
Bisque de homard Portland (208) 


HORS-D’CEUVRE, 


Amontillado Attéreaux de foies gras (838) 


POISSON. 


Clicquot Bluefish Barnave (1117) 


RELEVE. 


Tranches de selle d’agneau purée de haricots (1749) 


Pontet-Canet ENTREES. 


Timbales de pigeonneaux, Berchoux (2387) 
Homard Rougemont (1041) 


Punch glacé & la prunelle (3510) 


ROTS. 


St. Pierre Canards farcis 4 l’Américaine (1920) 
Souffiés de fromage de gruyére (2985) 


LEGUMES. 
Asperges sauce hollandaise (2692) 
Petits pois 4 Anglaise (2742) 
ENTREMETS. 


Old Port Bananes frites sauce cerises (3003) 
Riz aux fraises (3216) 
Dessert 


91 


325 








Haut Sauterne 
Amontillado 


Piesporter Auslese 


Pontet-Canet 


Clicquot dows 


Pommery 


Nuits 


Oporto 


Liqueurs 


. Lucines orangées (808) g 


‘POTAGES. 


FA 


Consommé Antonelli (217) he ee a 
Bisque de moules a la 8 Ontting 20 s . 
HORS-D’@UVRE. oy 


Brissotins de homard a Mndienne (851) 


“POISSON. ere 


Kingfish & a la Sultane Gian oS 
Maquereaux espagnols aux petits oe ( 200). 
Salade de concombres (2661) | 


RELEVE. 


Selle d’agneau A la Chancelidre (1739) 
Aubergines frites (2739) 


ENTREES. 


Poulets aux légumes nouveaux (1916) 
Petits pois 4 lAnglaise (2742) . i 
Casseroles de ris d’agneau a la de Luynes 
Tomates farcies (2842) . 

_ Tétes d’asperges en petites bott 


Sorbet parfait amour (3526) 


ROTS. 


Bécassines (2159) 
Barn au cresson ois) 


FROID. 
Petits aspics de foies-gras (2412). 
-Salade de laitue (2672) — 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Beignets de cerises (3042) 
Gelée aux fruits Se 


Pe Le Gees 


PIECES MONTES. 


Glace Esmeralda (3551) 
Fruits (3699) weet sh 
Petits fours (8844)" 05) 3) 20s 

Café (3701) hahial | 


BILLS OF FARE. 


JUIN. 
DINER DE 14 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE. 


MENU, 


POTAGES, 


Consommé Caréme (222) 
Créme de patates a la Girard (265) 


POISSONS. 


Kingfish 4 la Montgolfier (1188) 
} Saumon 4 l’Argentine (1237) 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Cassolettes Montholon (861) 


RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf a la d’Orléans (1450) 
Chapon a la Pondichéry (1824) 


ENTREES. 
Bécassines sautées a ]’Africaine (2158) Ailes de poulet 4 1a Bodisco (1835) 
Ris de veau a la Napolitaine (1562) Vol-au-vent a la Financiére (2396) 
Filets de volaille 4 la Lucullus (1846) Cotelettes d’agneau a la Clémence (1673) 
Timbales de macaroni (2988) Pain de volaille a la Villars (2304) 
Pigeonneaux & la Crispi (2008) Homard @ la créole (1029) 
BUFFET. 
Cotes de boeuf réties au jus (1831) Selle de mouton rétie (1648) 
Haricots maitre-d’hétel (2829) Choux a la Paysanne (2706) 
ROTS. 
Canetons au cresson (1938) Mésanges moustache (2152) 
RELEVES. 
Pouding a l’Italienne (3101) Crémes frites Paméla (8018) 
FLANCS. 


Le char des Cygnes (3634)) 
La Corbeille garnie de fruits en sucre tiré (38628) 


327 


‘ef CONTRE FLANCS. 
Gateau ananas (3252) Nougatine (3251) 
ENTREMETS. 
Petits pois 4 la Ménagére (2744) Artichauts 4 la Rachel (2690) 
Gelée a la rose (3181) Charlotte 4 la Metternich (8144) 
Pain de fraises 4 la creme (3197) Tarte a la Rhubarbe (3204) 
Fruits (8699) Petits fours (8364) 


Fromage (3697) Café (8701) 







Jae 


94 THE EPICUREAN, 


DINER DE 12 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA FRANQAISE, oa 
MENU. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Comus (226) 
Benoiton (288) 


HORS-D’UVRE. — 


Bouchées & la Reine (938) 


RELEVES. 


Saumon de Kennebec 4 la d’Artois (1238) i 
| ; Filet de boeuf au Chasseur (1462) 


ENTREES. — : : aa <a 


Oaneton aux cépes (1922) 

Paté chaud de foies gras 4 FAlsacienne (2316) , 
ace Chaudfroid de poulet a la Clara Morris (2451) 
| Aspic de homard (2414) 


Sorbet Trémidre (3520) 


ae OTS. 7 i vGs 


Bécassines (2159) 
Selle d’agneau de lait (1748) 


ENTREMETS, 


Asperges sauce créme (2692) 
Petits pois a la Frangaise (2748) 
Crofites de bananes 4 la Panama (8028) 
Blanc manger & la Smolenska (3188) — 


DESSERT. 


Piéces montées (3628) 
Glaces, Cartes surprise (3549) 
Fruits frais (3699) 
Petits fours biscuits aux noisettes (3368) , 
Fromages variés (8697) | 
Café (8701) 


BILLS 
S29 JUNE, 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Purée of carrots A la Crécy (268) 


Remove 
‘trout 41a Beaufort (1290) 
Potato fritters (2788) 
Entrées 
Calves’ tongues, Périgueux (1584) 
Stuffed artichoke bottoms (2684) 
Timbales of fillets of soles 4 la Gauloise (2384) 


Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 
Hot Entremets 
Portuguese apples (2998) 


Cold Entremets 


Spanish custard cream (3152) 
Dessert 


ORF RARE, 95 
SoU JUNE. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Sowp 


Bisque of lobster 4 la Cambridge (207) 


Remove 


Fresh mackerel fillets, Bonnefoy (1191) 
Broiled potatoes (2776) 


Entrées 


Beef tongue, macédoine (1470) 
Rice, Manhattan style (2977) 


Squab cutlets a la Périgueux (2267) 
Tomatoes Trévise (2836) 


Roast 


Pheasants adorned with their own plumage 
(2107) 
Cabbage salad (2659) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples with burnt almonds (3000) 


Mossaganem (3192) 
Dessert 





Sol JUNE. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé a la Plumerey (238) 


Side Dish 
Célestines with foies-gras (862) 
. Fish 
Striped bass a la Conti (1102) 
Potato cakes (2778) 


Remove 


Pullet, Egyptian style, broiled (1986) 
Turnips, Spanish sauce (2848) 


Entrées 
Lamb cutlets 4 la Signora (1686) 
String beans with butter (2829) 


Larks with rice (2084) 
Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce (2692) 


Bouquetiére punch (3503) 


Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Meringued pancakes, Rossini (8073) 


Plombiére a la Richmond (8481) 
Dessert 


332 JUNE. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of lobsters (205) 


Side Dish 
Timbales with red beef tongue (990) 
- Fish 
Salmon a la Béarnaise (1244) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef braised with roots (1461) 


Entrées . 
Breasts of chicken a la Patti (1850) 


Sweet peppers sautéd (2769) 
Mutton cutlets a la Savary (1597) 
Beet fritters a la Dickens (2702) 

Californian sherbet (8523) 
Roast 

Ducklings a l’Andalouse (1930) 
Water cress and apple salad (2676) 
Hot Entremets 
Tyrolian pudding (3111) 

Strawberry ice cream (3488) 

Dessert 


96 THE EPICUREAN. 


Soo JUNE. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Tagliarelli (839) 
Remove 


Pompano a la Anthelme (1220) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Entrées 


Chicken sautéd, Portuguese style (1898) 
Fried eggplants (2739) 


Artichoke bottoms and cauliflower baked 
(2685) 


Roast 


Turkey (2028) 
Salad 


Hot EHntremets 


Rice croquettes with oranges, raspberry sauce 
(3018) 


Surprise bananas (3541) 
Dessert 


334 JUNE. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Mullagatawny, Indian style (327) 


Remove 


Kingfish & la Princelay (1184) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 


Shoulder of lamb with cucumbers (1751) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Border of risot, Valenciennes (2212) 


Roast 


Duckling (1938) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Alliance fritters (3036) 


Ice cream, Malakoff (3150) 
Dessert 





335 JUNE. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé a la Sévigné (242) 


Side Dish 
Croustades Perretti (900) 


Fish 
Trout cooked in court bouillon (1298) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef 4 la Montebello (1454) 
Mushrooms a la Rivera (2758) 
Entrées 
Sweetbreads, Piedmontese style (1568) 


Potato and truffle salad in border (2655) 
Kirsch punch (8510) 
Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Crescents of noodles with cherries (8015) 


(Ices) Caramel bouchées (3543) 
Dessert 


336 JUNE. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of crawfish 4 la bateliére (202) 


Side Dish 
Timbales, Mentana (974) 


Fish 
Bluefish, Havanese style (1118) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Remove 
Lamb minion fillets, cream sauce (1724) 
Eggplant in cases & la Morton (2786) 


Entrées 
Tournedos of tenderloin of beef 4 la Marietta 
(1435) 
Carrots glazed with fine herbs (2712) 


- Vol-au-vent ala Nesle (2397) 
Maraschino punch (3510) 


Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Fried cream Pamela (3018) 


(Ices) Tortoni cups (3584) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. | ov 


so? JUNE. 338 JUNE 


DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. ic MENU. 
Soup Soup. 
Manioca (816) Chartreuse (297) 
Remove Remove 
Brook trout & la Cambacérés (1291) Kingfish a la Bordelaise (1181) 
Baked potatoes (2798) Cucumbers (2661) 
Entrées Entrées 


Shoulder of mutton with potatoes (1652) | 


ke one? (1986) Macaroni a la Cavalotti (2964) 


Okra with barley croustades (2768) 


Chicken sautéd & la Marengo (1898) Squabs a la Vestal (2022) 
Rice croquettes with salpicon (2952) Braised onions (2765) 
Roast . Roast 
Squabs (2018) Chicken (1881) 
Salad Salad 
Hot Entremets Hot Entremets 
Apple fritters, Montagnard (3087) Frangipane pie with marrow (3088) 
Ice cream & la Cialdini (8445) (Iced) Fiori di latte almond milk (3469) 
Dessert Dessert 
Ym i 
3389 JUNE. 340 JUNE 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. | MENU. 
oe Sowp 
Soup. “ ‘ 
Bisque of mussels 4 la Cutting (209) Benoiton (288) 
: : Side Dish 
Side Dish 
Rissolettes A la Renan (957) Canelons of palate of beef (858) 
P Fish 
Lish Ai petty S 
Flounders, Genlis style (1154) Sheepshead béchamel (1257) 
Cucumbers, English style (2661) Dauphine potatoes (2783) 
Remove : Remove 
Rump of beef, Greek style (1342) Loin of veal with gravy (1537) 
Potatoes with artichokes and truffles (2805) Eggplant in cases a la Morton (2736) 
Entrées Entrées 
Breasts of chicken a la Chevreuse (1827) Grenades of chicken a la Ritti (1871) 
Boquillon tomatoes (2833) Fried cucumbers (2732) 
Sweetbreads 4 la Princess (1565) : Lobster 4 la Paul Bert (1038) 


Asparagus tips 4 la Maintenon (2695) 


Siberian punch (3516) Californian sherbet (8523) 


Roast Roast 
Duckling (1938) Pheasant (2107) 
Salad Salad 
Hot Entremets Hot Entremets 


Crust with cherries (8024) 


Rice ice cream, paradise (3456) Ceylon with coffee ice cream (3545) 
Dessert Dessert 


Savarin with apricots (3117) 


98 THE EPICUREAN. 
841 «JUNE, 342 JUNE 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Purée of potatoes Ala Benton (278) 


Remove 
Sea bass 4 la Villeroi (1099) 


Entrées 


Grenadins of beef. with round potatoes, Valois 
sauce (1393) 
Artichoke bottoms a la Jussienne (2678) 


Vol-au-vent of salmon trout a 
(2408) 


la Régence 


Roast 
Duckling (1938) 
Macédoine salad (2650) 
Hot Entremets 
Rice border with bananas (3005) » 


Cream with cherries (3154) 
Dessert 





343 JUNE. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Consommé a la Laguipierre (236) 


Side Dish 
Timbales a la Beaumarchais (960) 


Fish 
Brook trout, Montagnarde (1296) 


Remove 
Chateaubriand, Colbert sauce (1881) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 
Entrées 
Sweetbreads a la Montebello (1560) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Chicken sautéd & la Sandford (1899) 
Fried asparagus & la Miranda (2696) 
Elizabeth punch (3507) 


Roast 
Pheasant (2107) 
Italian salad (2635) 

Hot Entremets 
Strawberry soufflé (3122) 
(Ice) Lemons in surprise (3557) 
Dessert 


Bennett (287) 


Remove 


Spanish mackerel a la Viennet (1197) | 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 


Entrées 
Leg of lamb, onion purée (1716) 
Tomatoes 4 la Gibbons (2841) 


Breasts of squab a la Duxelle, stuffed (2019) 
Spinach a la Noailles (2821) 


Roast 


Turkey (2028) 
Tomato salad (2666) 


Hot Entremets 
Strawberry fritters (8049) 


- Rhubarb pie (8204) 
Dessert 


S44 JUNE 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Cream of artichokes, Morlaisienne Gt 
Side Dish 
Capon croquettes a la Royale (876) 
Fish 


Bass a la Conti (1102) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef, Indian style (1468) 
Beets with cream (2702) 


Entrées 
Pigeons, monarch style (1964) 
Asparagus tips with cheese (2697) 


Small croustades of sweetbreads (2251) 
Cauliflower a la Villeroi (2716) 


Mephisto sherbet (3524) 


Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Munich with peaches (3055) 


(Ice) Italian mousse (3475) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 


JUILLET. 
DINER DE 24 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L'ANGLAISE, 


MENU. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Britannia (221) 
Bisque de crevettes 4 la Veragua (211) 
POISSON. 


Saumon sauce marinade (1245) 


GROSSES PIECES. 


Selle d’agneau roétie au jus (1746) 
Jambon roti 4 la broche sauce madeére (1789) 


ENTREES. 


Cételettes de poulet a la Clarence (2258) 
Noisettes de filet de boeuf a la Rossini (1417) 
Ris de veau a la Princesse (1565) 


345 


Caisses de pigeonneaux Umberto (2234) 


ROTS. 


Canetons au cresson (1938) 
Perdreaux anglais grillés (2085) 


RELEVES. 


Compiegne au sabayon (3009) 
Creme frite Paméla (3013) . 


ENTREMETS. 


Mats bouilli en tiges (2730) 
Fonds d’artichauts béchamel a la créme gratinés (2686) 
Moscovite aux fraises (3191) 
Pouding glacé a la Fleury (8493) 


Punch &@ la Sibérienne (3516) 
BUFFET. 


Consommé semoule (316) Longe de veau au jus (1537) 
Noix de beuf salée Ecarlate 4 l’Anglaise (1316) 


Chouxfleurs au fromage gratinés (2717) Haricots verts étuvés (2828) 


Cantaloup (799) 








MENU. 


POTAGES. — 


“= — Consommé Andalouse (216) are ele 
Créme de mais Mendocino 256) 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Timbales 4 la Ristori (982) 


POISSON. 


Kingfish a la Bella (1180) 
Pommes de terre fondantes (2799) . 
: Salade de concombres B00 


RELEVE. | r met ‘ 


Double d’agneau garni de croquettes de pommes (1736). Ae 
Tomates a la Boquillon 2808) 


ENTREES. is 5 xf ety ¥ 


Ailes de poulet 4 la Valerri (1856) 

Petits pois & la ‘Frangaise (2743) 
Ris de veau & la St. Cloud (15 
oe! ee SEO Ges verts a la 


Punch a la Béatrice (8502) 


ROT, 


Pigeonneaux (2018) } 
=i : Salade de romaine (2675) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. — 


Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) 
Bavarois aux framboises Ot. 


Fruits (8699) bors (8640) ‘Petits fours (e364) 
Café (8701) 


BILLS OF FARE. 101 
SP Be JULY. 348 JULY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU 
Soup Soup 


Macaroni (8389). 


Remove 


Pompano 4 la Potentini (1225) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Entrées 
Roast duck with cherries (1928) 
Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 


Sweetbreads 4 la Columbus (1558) 
Glazed turnips (2847) 


Roast - 


Leg of lamb with gravy (1715) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Savarin with apricots (3117) 


Renaissance pudding (3210) 
Dessert 


a 


8349 JULY. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé printanier with quenelles (289) 
Side Dish 
Mousseline a la Waleski (916) 
Fish 
Pike perch, Continental style (1218) 
Persillade potatoes (2790) i 
i 
Remove 
Beef tongue a la Soligny (1468) 
~ Stuffed onions (2766) j 
} 
Entrées : 
Duckling 4 la Bordelaise (1931) 
Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) 


Mayonnaise of chicken (2625) 
Champagne punch (3504) 


Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Soufflés with raspberries (3122) 


(Iced) Romanoff pudding (8497) 
Dessert 





Mussels & la Vigo (828) 


Remove 


Baked kingfish (1186) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


- 


Entrées 


Calf ears, tomato sauce (1505) 
Stuffed green peppers (2768) 


Stewed pigeons (1967) 
Sautéd mushrooms a la Dumas (2757) 


Roast 


Ptarmigan (2072) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 


Pancakes with orange-flower water (8078) 


White coffee ice cream (3460) 
Dessert 


350 JULY. 


DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Cream of peas, St. Germain (260) 


Side Dish 
Cromesquis of. bass 870) 
Fish. 
Small lobster, Bordelaise (1026) 
Remove 7 
Glazed pullet a la printaniére (1980) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 
Entrées ae 
Sweetbreads,. English style (1571) 
Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) 
Beef palate tourte, Parisian style (2390) 
Parfait amour sherbet (3526) 
Roast | 
Ducklings (1938) 
Water-cress salad (2676) 
Hot Entremets 
Cream with apples (8014) 
(Iced) Plombiére, Havanese style (8484) 
Dessert 


102 THE EPICUREAN. 


351 JULY. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Clear mock turtle (354) 


Remove 
Spanish mackerel with crawfish (1198) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 
Entrées 


Loin of lamb with sautéd tomatoes (1718) 
Artichoke bottoms 4 la Mornay (2680) 


Timbale of sweetbreads, modern (2388) 


Roast 
Tame ducks a la Siebrecht (1919) 
Cos-lettuce salad (2675) 
Hot Entremets 
Brioche fritters with sabayon (3040) 


(Iced) Bomb, Fifth avenue (3440) 
Small fancy cakes (8364) 
Dessert 


252 JULY. 


DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Cold, Russian style (802) 


Remove 
Bluefish in papers (1120) 


Entrées 
Leg of lamb, green sauce (1706) 
Breaded fried cucumbers (2732) 


Chickens sautéd a la Madeleine (1891) 
Beet fritters a la Dickens (2702) 
Italian salad (2635) 

Roast 
Stuffed squabs, American style (2012) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Déjazet pancakes (3172) 


Melon water-ice (3603) 
Dessert 





3583 JULY. 
DINNER, 12 TO 16 PERSONS 
MENU. 


Soup 
Lamb sweetbreads, German style (820) 


Side Dish 
Mousselines Isabella (912) 
Fish 
Codfish, Norwegian style (1187) 
Nellow potatoes (2799) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef & la de Lesseps (1852) 
Eggplant a la Robertson (2787) 


Entrées 
Squabs with Colbert sauce (2018) 


Sautéd string beans (2829) 
Timbale of Gnocquis & la Choiseul (2987) 
Paradise sherbet (3525) 


Roast 
Pheasant (2107) 
Tomato salad (2666) 


Hot Entremets 
Orusts with bananas a la Panama (8028) 


Rice with apricots (3214) 
Dessert 


354 JULY. 


DINNER, 12 TO 16 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of peas with crofitons (282) 
Side Dish 
Timbales, Périgordine (979) 
Fish 
Porgies 4 la Manhattan (1229) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef a la Dégrange (1351) 
Cauliflower with fried bread crumbs (2718) 


Entrées 
Duck with cépes (1922) 
Succotash (2731) 


Lamb cutlets 4 la Périgueux (1688) 
Glazed cucumbers (2733) 


Imperial punch (3509) 


Roast 
Chicken (1881) 
White cabbage salad (2659) 


Hot Entremets 
Croustade of Venice meringued (3020) 


(Ice) Cherry Plombiére (3485) 
Dessert 








BILLS OF FARE. | 103 


AOUT ; 355 


DINER DE 30 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE, 
MENU. 


Lucines orangées (803) 


POTAGE,. 


Consommé Antonelli (21%) 


HORS-D’GUVRE. 


Palmettes Primatice (923) 


POISSON. 


Bass rayé & la Long Branch (1104) 
Pommes de terre duchesse (2785) 


RELEVE. 


Filet de boeuf 4 la Godard (1451) 
Concombres 4 la Villeroi (2732) 


ENTREES, 


Poulet sauté 4 la Finnoise (1889) 
Petits pois Fleurette (2741) 
Ris de veau Zurich (1579) 
Haricots de Lima maitre-@’hétel (2699) 


Punch & la Romaine (3515) 


a 


ROT. 


Selle de Chevreuil (2194) 
Salade de céleri mayonnaise (2660) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Pouding souffié aux amandes pralinées (3113) 
Gateau Chamounix (8235) 
Gelée aux fruits (3187) 
Glaces Variées 
Dessert 







DINER DE 10 OOUVERTS—SERVICE a LA RI 


MENU. © 

Lucines (803) 
POTAGE. 

Consommé Bariatenski (219) 

-HORS-D’GUVRE, | 

Coulibiac & la Russe (908) 
‘POISSON, =. 

Grouper dla Franklyn(1162) 


0 8 ae 


"Selle d’agnean A la Chancelidre (1789) 


‘ ENTREES. _ 


Ailes de oalet B. & la Béranger (1834) poke 
Ris de veau & la La Vall 


re | alune a F 5 ha 
ig ie 


- Pigeonneaux (2018) 


a el 
a> p 


ENTREMETS. pie 
(2°) etpeeh ae aa 
Petits pois & la Francaise (2748) 
Beignets de Cerises (3042) 
* Cornets & la créme & Vorange 
" DESSERT. 


: Pidees montées ou corbeilles de. foun (02 
Oompotes (8686) : Fruits frais (3699) 


PETIT BUFFET, 


Caviar (778) sl ete sie er 
Tartelettes nonpareil (825) yer 


Canapés de homard (777) Crevettes en raviers ou. : 





BILLS 


AUGUST 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


357 


Soup 
Chamberlain (295) 


Remove 


Pike perch a la Financiére (1214) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 


Lamb cutlets & la Catalane (1671) 
Green peas, French style (2748) 


Chicken sautéd with fine herbs (1907) 
Lima beans maitre-d’hétel (2699) 


Roast 


Woodcock (2206) 
Salad 


Hot EHntremets 


Semolina croquettes, pistachio sauce (8019) 
(Iced) Semiramis mousse (3471) 


OF FARE. 105 
358 AUGUST 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Sorrel, Flemish style (347) 


Remove 


Black bass with sweet peppers (1097) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 


Entrées 
Stuffed shoulder of lamb with glazed vegeta- 
bles (1752) 


Squab fritters, Oporto sauce (2020) 
Trévise tomatoes (2836) 
Roast 


Pheasant (2107) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 


Venetian meringued croustade (3020) 


Cialdini ice cream (8445) 





359 


AUGUST. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of Guinea fowl a la Washburn (279) 


Side Dish 
Attéreaux of chicken a la d’Antin (837) 


Fish 
_ Pompano Mazarin (1224) 
- Potato croquettes (2782) 


Remove 
Pullet minion fillets & la Montpensier (1999) 
- Stafted tomatoes, Trévise (2836) 


Ent *E€S 
Fe Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) 
‘ * Artichoke bottoms, soubise (2681) 


Woodcock hash in a croustade with soft eggs 
(2302) 


Rebecca sherbet (8528) 


CB 


Roast 
Saddle of venison (2194) 
Salad 


Hot HEntremets 
Spanish pudding (8110) 


Mushrooms, ice cream (8568) 
Dessert 


AUGUST. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bares (290) 


Side Dish 
Bondons of pickerel, Walton (844) 


Fish 
Striped bass a la Rouennaise (1108) 
Broiled potatoes with fried- bread raspings 
(2776) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef with -calf’s brain patties (1355) 
Stuffed green peppers (2768) 


360 


Entr ées 
Fillet of Guinea fowl a la Gaillardet (1957) 
Carrots with cream (2714) 


Frog legs a la Royer. (1023) 
Nenuphar punch (8518) 


Roast 
_Squabs (2018) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Pudding, Scotch style (8108) 


(Iced) Parfait with nougat (8478) 
Dessert 


106 THE EPICUREAN. 


S61 AUGUST. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Cabbage (292) 


Remove 
Salmon, Daumont (1239) 
Gastronome potatoes (2789) 
Entrées 
Noisettes of mutton a la Provencal (1611) 
Carrots, Colbert (2711) 


Chicken vol-au-vent with mushrooms (2399) 


Roast 


Partridges (2102) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Golden crusts (8021) 


Cherries with cream (3154) 
Dessert 


862 AUGUST. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Spaghetti (339) 


Remove 
Pike perch a la Royale (1216) 
Potato cakes with ham (2779) 
Entrées . 


Grenadins of beef, Mare Aureie (1389) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Broiled pullet, tartar sauce (1991) 
Breaded and fried cucumbers (2782) 


Russian salad (2645) 


Roast 
Reedbirds (2152) - 


Hot Entremets 
Mirlitons of pears 4 la Bienvenue (8054) 


Ice cream with black coffee (3463) 
Dessert 





863 AUGUST. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of crawfish 4 la Humboldt (208) 


Side Dish 
Scotch Timbales (985) 


Fish 
Sheepshead, Buena Vista, (1259) 
Potato fritters (2788) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef with truffles (1429) 
Eggplant, Duperret (2735) 


Entrées 
Duckling, peasant style (1989) 


Glazed and larded sweetbreads with cépes, 
Bordelaise (1574) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Stanley punch (8518) 
Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Salad 
Linge _ Hot Entremets 
Crusts with pineapple and apricot sauce (8022) 


Sicilian ice cream (8579) 
Dessert 


364 AUGUST. 


DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS, 
MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé a la Florentine (282) 


Side Dish 
Patties, Queen style (938) 
Fish 
Salmon a la Victoria (1248) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Remove 


Young turkey with turnips (2043) 
Baked artichoke bottoms béchamel (2686) 


Entrées 
Sweetbreads studded, Spanish style (1577) 
Stuffed peppers (2768) 


Fillet of sole tourte 4 la Financiére (2392) 


Péaquerette sherbet (3527) 
Roast 


Woodcock (2206) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Fried cream, Maintenon (3010) 


(Iced) Soufflé Alcazar (35338) 
Dessert 





ay he Seer ee 





BILLS OF FARE. : 107 


SEPTEMBRE. | 865 
DINER DE 18 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE 


MENU. 


Lucines orangées (808) 


POTAGES. 


Consommé & la créme de faisan (227) 
Tortue verte liée (853) 


HORS-D’UVRE, 


Bressoles de foies gras (848) 


RELEVES, 


Bass ray6é gratiné au vin blanc (1113) 
Pommes marquise (2797) 
Cuissot de chevreuil & la Francatelli (2183) 
Laitues braisées au jus (2754) 


ENTREES, 


Ailes de poulet au supréme (1858) 
Petits pois 4 la Parisienne (2745) 
Timbale de homard 4 la d’Aumale (2385) 
Haricots verts Bourguignonne (2826) 


: Punch & la Favorite (3508) 


ROT. 


Perdreaux sauce au pain (2102) 


FROID. 


Aspics de foies gras (2411) 
Salade de laitues (2672) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Pommes 4 la Nelson (2991) 
Gaufres brisselets 4 la créme framboisée (3223) 
Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (3187) Piéces montées (3628) 
Glace Bacchus (3590) Le puits (3591) 
Dessert (3701) 







Pee ee = : 


“THE: EPICUREAN cae 


MENU. 


HORS-D’EUVRE FROIDS. eee 
Estomaes d’oie fumés (822) _ Hareng diablé (777) _— Jambon de Westph 
Melon cantaloup (799) pte on a 
Huitres (803) 3 eee 
POTAGES. 


Consommé Franklyn (233) Bisque aidcravlanes Porseny 20) 


HORS-D’UVRE CHAUDS. ar 


Timbales 4 la Benton (961) — , Croquettes de brochet’® & la Romaine @& 
POISSONS a 
Halibut & ’Amiral (1167) Eperlans Gondolire ache 
: ; RELEVES. $a i 
Baron d’agneau tardif 4 la de Rivas (1661) “Venton Dinde a ik 
ENTREES. 


. 


Grerailes de tétras 4 la Londonderry (2382) 
Casseroles de ris d’agneau 4 la de Luynes (2288) 
Chaudfroid de bécassines en buisson (2461) 
Salade de homard a l’Améri 


ROTS. ete 
Pintades piquées garnies de leur plumages (1956) , Selle de Chevreuil. @ 
LEGUMES. ies 
Chicorée & la creme (2729) - ) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Ananas Caroline (3090) 
Gelée d’oranges en tasses (3180) 7 
Bavarois en surprise 1s) 


FLANCS. aa be a 


’ 


G&teau Ohamounix (8285) Baba au Marsala (3002) 


DESSERT. 


Piéces montées (8628) Compotes (8686) 
Petits fours (3364) Fromages (3697) 
Devises (3658) Glaces variées (3538) 
Fruits frais (8699) _ _ Bonbons a 
Amandes salées (3696) _ 
Café et liqueurs (3701) 





BILLS OF FARE. 109 


SEPTEMBRE. ; 367 
DINER DE 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE. 


MENU. 


2 POTAGES, 


Consommé Britannia (221) 
Bisque de homard (205) 


2 POISSONS. 


Maquereau Espagnol a la Périgord (1196) 
Sheepshead au court bouillon (1262) 


2 RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf Rothschild (1457) 
Selle de mouton a l’Allemande (1645) 


4 ENTREES. 


Ailes de poulet a la Génin (1848) 


Cépes farcis (2726) 
Palais de yeau & la Séviené (1539) 


Haricots verts sautés (2829) 
Noisettes de chevreuil 4 la Thierry (2196) 
Crotites aux champignons (2759) 
Soufflés de homard (2368) 


2 ROTS. 


Oie 4 la Royer (1946) 
Vanneaux a la Dumanoir (2122) 


2 RELEVES. 


Omelette fourrée aux fraises (3068) 
St. Honoré Sultane (8261) 


4 ENTREMETS. 


Petits pois A la Frangaise (2743) Timbale Nantaise (2381) 
Crofites dorées (8021) Rhubarbe 4 la créme (8204) 


BUFFET. 


Paillettes au fromage (823) 
Marcassin sauce marinade garni de cdtelettes et poitrine (2049) 
Jambon roti sauce Madére (1789) 
Langues de boeuf a la Romaine (1467) 
Epinards bouillis (2828) 








110 : 
SEPTEMBRE, OE 
DINER DE 18 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA FRANCAISE. 
MENU. is 
Huitres (803) 
HORS-D’EUVRE FROIDS. Bers : a 
Artichauts poivrade (778) Olives farcies aux anchois (801) Boouf fumé (822) oY 
te 


Canapés d’écrevisses (777) Cornichons (785) | Thon mariné (é NY, a 


POTAGES, - | 
Consommé Colbert aux cufs pochés (225) Créme de riz Crémieux (249) — 


HORS-D’EUVRE CHAUD. 
Timbales Lagardére (970) 


RELEVES. 


pn!) Be 


Bass rayée Maintenon (1105) Filet de boeuf a la Richelieu Moderne (1456) S 


ENTREES. 
Ailes de poulet & la Lorenzo (1845) 
Cotelettes d’agneau a la Talma (1687) 
Ris de veau a la Marsilly (1559) | ae 
Filet de tétras & la Tzarine (2073) 


ye 2 
> 





ENTREES FROIDES SUR SOCLES. 


Aspic de poularde a la Cussy (2418) | 
Paté de foies gras de Strasbourg (2564) 


INTERMEDE. 


Sorbet Californienne (8528) 


A 


ROTS. | if 
Dinde truffée garnie d’olives noires (2031) ; 
Bécassines anglaises au cresson (2159) 


ENTREMETS. 
Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2704) | a 
Gelée a la rose (3181) Charlotte de pommes A la Destrey (3007) 
GROS GATEAUX. | 


Vacherin (3264)  Nougatine (3251) 


DESSERT. 


Fruits (8699) Compotes (8686) . Petits fours (3364) 
ite Café (8701) | 


BILLS 


369 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Monteille (325) 


Remove 


Blackfish a la Orly (1114) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 
Squabs, English style (2014) 
Tomatoes, Provencal (2835) 


Veal tongue, Flemish style (1588) 
Fried oyster plant (2817) 


Roast 
Snipe (2159) 
Water-cress and apple salad (2676) 
Hot Entremets 


Golden Lion flawn (3085) 
Iced biscuit, Diplomate (3485) 


Stewed fruits (3686) 
Coffee (8701) 


OF FARE. 11i 
370 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Cream of chicory, Evers (258) 


Remove 
Kingfish, Bateliére (1179) 
Mashed potatoes (2798) 

Entrées 


Pullet 4 la Arco Valley (1971) 
Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) 


Paupiettes of beef with fine herbs (1421) 
Lima beans, maitre-d’hdtel (2699) 
Roast 
Larded partridges with gravy and water-cress 
(2102) 
Hot Entremets 
Light pancakes with jams (3079) 


(Iced) Bomb Fifth avenue (3440) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Mottoes (8653) 
Dessert 





371 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of squash (268) 


Side Dish 
Small patties, Victoria (942) 
Fish 
Halibut a la Coligny (1168) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 
Remove 
Beef tenderloin a la printaniére (1464) 
Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 
Entrées 
Partridge fillets 4 la Véron (2089) 
Artichoke bottoms with cauliflower (2685) 
Reedbird patty (2312) 
Elizabeth punch (8507) 


Roast 
Saddle of venison (2194) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Apricots with rice a la Jefferson (8001) 


Pineapple water ice (3606) 
Dessert 


S73 SEPTEMBER 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup 
Paterson (340) 


Side Dish 
Rissoles of crawfish, Béatrice (949) 
Fish 
Striped bass, Bercy (1101) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Haunch of roebuck a la Bouchard (2178) 
Fried artichokes (26838) 


Entrées 


Guinea fowl] with sauerkraut (1958) 
Broiled potatoes (2776) 


Braised and stuffed woodcock (2209) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Paradise sherbet (3525) 


Roast 
Blackhead ducks (2052) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Apples ala Nelson (2991) 


Bavarian cream with chocolate (3131) 
(Iced) Cavour pudding (3489) 
Dessert 


120 THE EPICUREAN. 


373 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Crofite au pot (805) 


Remove 


Fresh mackerel maitre-d’hétel (1198) 
Tomato salad (2666) 


Entrées 


Grenadins of beef with potatoes, Valois sauce 
(1393) 
Sautéd string beans (2829) 


Timbale of noodles, Milanese (2988) 


Roast 
Teal ducks (2068) 
Macédoine (2650) 
Hot Eniremets 
Soufilé fritters, Médicis (3047) 


Biscuit glacé, Diplomate (8485) 
Dessert 


oi) SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 10 TO 14 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Macaronicelli (839) 


Side Dish 
Kulibiac Smolenska (909) 


Fish 
Fiounders, Dieppoise (1453) 
Cucumber salad (2661) 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef & la Thieblin (1354) 
Straw potatoes (2792) 
Entrées 
Fillets of partridges‘& la Véron' (2089) 
Marrow squash with parmesan (2824) 


Breasts of woodcock a la Houston (2201) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Golgorouski punch (8506) 


Roast 
Canvasback ducks (2055) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Peach fritters, Maraschino (3039) 


(Iced) Timbales, Algerian style (3580) 
Dessert 





374 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of wild duck, Van Buren (283) 


Remove 
Fresh codfish, egg sauce (1139) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 
Entrées 


Leg of lamb with carrots (1714) 
Stuffed artichoke bottoms (2684) 


Woodcock stewed 4 la Dumas (2199) 
Beets sautéd in butter (2702) 
Roast 
Chicken in the pan (1881) 
Tomato salad (2666) 

Hot Entremets 
Custard cream with apples (8014) 


Caramel ice cream (8447) 
Dessert 


376 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 10 TO 14 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Sowp 
Bisque of lobster a la Benoist (206) 


Side Dish 
Andalusian patties (934) 


Fish 
Salmon trout, Antoinette (1302) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 


Remove 
Hind saddle of lamb, Chanceliére (1739) 
Lima bean succotash (2731) 


Entrées 
Fillets of canvasback with orange juice (2058) 
Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) 


Breasts of chicken, Princiére (1852) 
Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) 


American sherbet (8521) 


Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Peaches 4 la Condé (8081) 


(Iced) Plombiere Rochambeau (3482) 
Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. | 113 


377 SEPTEMBER. 378 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup ot 


Purée of plovers a la Théo (271) 


Remove 


Blackfish 4 la Villaret (1116) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Entrées 
Gosling stewed with turnips (1954) 
String beans Bourguignonne (2826) 
Beef palates 4 la Béchamel (1326) 
Fried eggplants (2739) 
Roast 


Reedbirds (2152) 
Water-cress and apple-salad (2676) 


Hot Entremets 
Chestnut croquettes (3017) 


Cold Entremets 


Wafile buckets with cream (3128) 
Fresh fruits (8699) 








3879 SEPTEMBER. = 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Florence snow (839) 
. Side Dish 
Richmond mousseline (914) 
Fish | 
Aiguillettes of bass with oyster crabs (1096) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


7 Remove 
Haunch of venison a la Lytton (2179) 
Stuffed tomatoes, Trévise (2836) 


: Entrées . 
Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) 
Lima beans, maitre-d’hdtel (2699) _ 


Baked snipe (2156) 
Rebecca sherbet (3528) 


Roast 
Grouse, bread sauce (2072) 
Chicory salad (2668) 


Hot Entremets 
Rice with apples (3115) 


(Iced) Serano pudding (3498) 
Dessert 


Mock turtle (855) 


Remove 
Pike perch, Russian style (1217) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 
Entrées 
Quarter of lamb with stuffed tomatoes (1731) 


Carrots, cream sauce (2714) 


Venison erenadins a la royale (2195) 
Spinach, Rougemont (2822) 
Roast 
Young pigeons stuffed (2018) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 

Hot Entremets 
Madeira crusts (3026) 


Peach ice cream 4 la Herbster (3458) 
Dessert 





SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 to 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


380 


Soup. 
Purée of chicken a la Reine (270) 


Side Dish 
Bateaux of fat liver, Russian style (848) 


Fish 
Salmon, Genevoise (1246) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


_._  -Remove 
Ribs of beef, Hindostan (1330) 
Cabbage, peasant style (2706) 
Entrées 


Chicken sautéd, Maryland (1894) 
Peas with minced lettuce (2747) 


Border of risot, Valenciennes (2212) 
. Champagne punch (3504) 


Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 
Romaine salad (2675) 


Hot Entremets 
Mazarine with pineapples (3053) 


Plombiére d’Alencon (3483) 
Dessert 


114 THE 
8381 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Partridge 4 la Royale (8388) 
Muskmelon (799) 


Remove 
Sea bass A la Villeroi (1099) 
Cucumber salad (2662) 
Entrées 


Veal cutlets a la Zingara (1498) 
Celeriac knobs, Mirabeau (2722) 


Lobster 4 la Gambetta (10383) 


Roast 


Chicken in the saucepan (1881) 
Escarole salad (2671) 


Hot Entremets 
Benvenuto pudding (38092) 


Brazil nuts ice cream (3464) 
Dessert 


EPICUREAN. 


882 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Oysters with powdered okra (336) 


Remove 


Salmon a l’Argentine (1237) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Entrées 


Chicken sautéd, Parisian style (1904) 
Carrots with cream (2714) 


Mushrooms mousserons a la Reynal (2756) 


Roast 


Mallard ducks (2059) 
Dandelion salad (2670) 


Hot Entremets 
Mellow pudding, apricot sauce (3094) 


St. Jacques cups (3560) 





383 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of grouse a la Manhattan (272) 


Side Dish 
Cocks’ kidneys, Villeroi (864) 


Fish 
Kingfish fillets, Valencay (2528) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Remove 
Beef tenderloin, Solohub (1459) 
Eggplant, Duperret (2735) 
Entrées 
Pullet with oysters (1994) 
Cauliflower, white sauce (2719) 
Vol-au-vent Financiére (2396) 
Pargny punch (3514) 
Roast 
Redhead ducks (2068) 
Celery salad (2660) 
Hot Entremets 
Peaches A la Colbert (8080) 


Bomb with printanier fruits (3441) 
Dessert 


884 SEPTEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of cauliflower a la Brisson (251) 


Side Dish 
Small patties with shrimps (935) 
Fish 
Turbot rémoulade sauce (2613) _ 
Potato cakes (2778) — as 


Remove 
Braised breast of veal 4 la Bourdaloue (1487) 
_ Glazed turnips (2847) 
Entrées 
Venison cutlets, Parisian tomato sauce (2174) 
Stuffed cucumbers (2734) 


Fillets of partridge 4 la Véron (2089) 
Artichoke bottoms, fried (2683) 


Venetian sherbet (3529) 
Roast 

English snipe (2159) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Cream of rice fritters (3043) 


(Iced) Italian mousse (8475) 
Dessert 





as OP PATE, 


OCTOBRE. | 
DINER DE 24 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE. 


MENU. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Franklyn (2338) 
Tortue verte (853) 


POISSONS. 


Carpe 4 la Chambord (1129) 
Filets de soles 4 la Marguery (1273) 


RELEVES. 


Selle de venaison panée aux cerises noires (2192) 
| Dindonneau piqué roti purée d’artichauts (2042) 


ENTREES. 
Boudins de volaille 4 la Soubise (2215) 
Mauviettes 4 la maréchale (2081) 
Attéreaux de palais de boeuf (836) 
Petits vol-au-vent a la Lucini (2404) 


FROID. 
Mousselines de foies gras 4 la Dana (2535) 
Chaudfroid de perdreaux a la Béatrice (2455) 


ROTS. 


Canetons a la Rouennaise (1937) 
Courlis (2051) 


RELEVES. 


Petites omelettes 4 la Célestine (3056) 
Pommes en surprise (2995) 


ENTREMETS. 
Laitues farcies demi-glace (2753) Haricots verts au beurre (2829) 
Fonds d’artichauts, Montglas (2679) Salade Italienne (2635) 
Gelée Tunisienne rubanée (3184) Pouding Saxonne (3107) 
Flan A la Manhattan (3034) Gaufres Brisselets creme a la framboise (3223) 
BUFFET. 
Aloyau boeuf roti (1346) Quartier de mouton aux pommes Gastronome (1642) 
Moelle sur crotites grillées (1319) Salade a la Parisienne (2644) 
Compotes (3686) Tarte a la créme (3201) 


Consommé semoule (316) 


385 











MENU. 


HORS-D’@UVRE. 


Caviar (778) Radis (808) Anchois (772) Olives 09 a 
Huitres et citrons (803) 


2 POTAGES. 


Consommé a la Royale (241) _ Purée de levraut St. James 74 


2 HORS-D’HUVRE CHAUDS. 


Timbales 4 Ja Talleyrand (988) 
Rissoles de ais de boout (052) 


2 RELEVES. 


} 


Bass rayé aux fines herbes (1112) | ee 
Filet de boeuf & la Bayonnaise (144: 


4 ENTREES CHAUDES. 


Ailes de poulet 4 l’Impératrice (1841) 
Ris de veau a la parisienne (1576) 
Paté chaud de bécasses (2319) 
Cotelettes de faisan 


2 FLANCS. e : 
Paté de foies gras découpé (2568) — Ballotines de cailles 4 la Tivollier 
Punch & la Montmorency (3512) 7 
2 ROTS. 3 ae 
Selle Pantone sauce piercer (2190) ane i 
-Poularde au cresson nee 


2 PLATS VOLANTS. 
Soufilé au parmesan (2983) Tartelettes de créme au fromage ( 


4 ENTREMETS, 


Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise (2742) Tomateaten caisses : 
Crofites aux poires & la Douglas (3028) be ~ Pouding C 


“ 2 FLANCS. 
Gateau Breton (8232) Maréchal Ney (3189) 


Glace bombe aux fruits printaniére (3441) Ananas en surprise ( 
Assiettes montées de bonbons (3642) Compotes (3686) : 


4 Tambours garnis de petits fours et macarons (830. 
al 


BILLS OF FARE. 11? 


OCTOBRE. 387 
DINER DE 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE 


(Service par 10) 
MENU. 
20 Plats @huitres et citrons (808) 


2 POTAGES. 


1 Soupiére de Brunoise aux quenelles (291) 
1 Soupiére de purée de canards sauvages, Van Buren (288) 


2 HORS-D’UVRE CHAUDS. 
2 Timbales Montgomery (975) 


2 POISSONS. 


1 Pompano 4 la Mazarin (1224) 
1 Cabillaud 4 la Duxelle au gratin (11386) 


2 RELEVES. 


2 Dindes cloutées a la Sartiges (2027) 


4 ENTREES. 


1 Epigrammes de chevreuil sauce marinade aux truffes (2176) 
1 Ris de veau a la Maltaise (1558) 
1 Aspic de foies gras (2411) 
1 Coételettes de homard Lowery (2476) 


Punch Trémiére (3520) 


2. ROTS. 


1 Bécasses sur canapés a la Périgord (2205) 
1 Cochon de lait farci et roti 4 la broche (1810) 


2 LEGUMES. 


1 Céleri sauce Mirabeau (2722) 
1 Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) 


4 ENTREMETS. 


1 Pommes 4 la Portugaise (2998) 
1 Munich aux péches (8055) 
1 Buisson de meringues (3212) 
1 Gelée aux Violettes (3185) 


2 FLANCS. 


1 Gateau Mille feuilles Pompadour (3247) 
1 Gateau Napolitain’ (8250) 
Dessert. 


118 


DINER DE 50 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE, - 


MENU. 


Huitres (808) | ) ? Ki 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Duchesse (230) 
Bisque d’écrevisses (201) 
HORS-D'EUVRE. 


Timbales a la Rothschild (983) 


POISSONS. 


Sheepshead Bourguignonne (1258) 
Plie 4 la Jules Janin (1156) 


RELEVES. 


Selle de chevreuil 4 la sauce au vin d’Oporto et gelée de groseille (2193) : cae 
Fonds d’artichauts a la J ussienne e078). ee 





ENTREES. 


Tournedos de filet de boeuf aux haricots verts (1440) 
Ailes de poulet 4 la Marceau (1847) 
Petits pois Parisienne (2745) 
Caisses de ris de veau 4 la Grammont (2235) — 
Tomates Trévise (2836) 
Coquilles de truffes béchamel au eran | 


Sorbet Californienne (3528) 


ROT. 
Perdreaux (2102) 


FROID. 


Terrine de pluviers et mauviettes (2601) 
Salade de laitues (2672) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Mazarine & l’ananas au kirsch (3053) os. 
Gelée a l’orange en tasses (3180) 
Nid garni d’ceufs (8594) 


Charlotte Russe (8145) 
Pouding 4 la Waddington (3300) 
Fruits (3699) | Petits fours (3364) aa 2 


Café (3701) 


~*~ 


BILLS OF FARE. 119 


389 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Pickled oysters (802) 
Soup 
Gumbo with hard crabs, creole style (818) 


Remove 


Sheepshead a la Bourguignonne (1258) 
Potato cakes (2779) 


Entrées 


Beef tongue @ la Romaine (1467) 
Boiled onions, Hollandaise sauce (2764) 


Paupiettes of hare with stuffed olives (2080) 


Carrots, cream sauce (2714) 


Roast 


Reedbirds (2152) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Compiégne cake with sabayon (3009) 


(Iced) Caramel bouchées (3543) 
Dessert 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


390 


MENU. 


Soup 
Calf’s tail, Rundell (294) 


Remove 
Smelts 4 la Norfolk (1267): 
Broiled potatoes (2776) 
Entrées 


Roebuck fillets 4 la Lorenzo (2177y 
Noodles a la Lauer (2970) 


Chicken sautéd 4 la d’Antin (1885). 
String beans a l’Albani (2825) 


Roast 


Squabs (2018) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 


Hot Entremets 
Custard cream of chestnut caramel (3012) 


Peach ice cream a la Herbster (3453) 





391 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Barley with celery (285) 


Side Dish 
Fat liver croquettes, Dauphine (885) 
Fish 
Sole 4 la Normande (1274) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Turkey a la Chipolata, stuffed (2024) 
Sautéd Brussels sprouts (2704) 


Entrées 
Palate of beef in tortue (1328) 
Fried eggplant (2739) 


Plover a la Stoughton (2115) 
Oriental rice (2978) 


Andalusian sherbet (3522) 


Roast 
Saddle of venison (2194) 
Escarole salad (2671) 


Hot Entremets 
Peaches 4 la Stevens (8084) 


(Iced) Rabbit in surprise (3596) 
Dessert 


392 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Montorgueil (326) 


Side Dish 
Timbales a la Marly (973) 


Fish 
Redsnapper a la Demidoff (1234) 
Mellow potatoes (2799) 


Remove 
Saddle of venison 4 la Morton (2188¥ 
Baked tomatoes (2837) 


Entrées 
Pullet 4 la Mornay (1977) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Salmis of woodcock a la Sanford (2208). 
Fried celery (2064) 


Nenuphar punch (3513) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2063) 
Cos lettuce salad (2675) 


Hot Entremets 
Peaches, Richelieu (3083) 


(Iced) Sicilian pudding (3499y 
. Dessert 


TO 0 THE EPIOUREAN. ~— () 3am 
"BOS ae OCTOBER. 394  .__ ocTOBER. Gj 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. » ie 
MENU. MERM 
Soup. 
Soup : . 
Purée of woodcock a& la Théo (271) 
Oysters, French style (835) | 
Remove 
ae Mounders hiner (1157) 
ounders a la Madeleine (1 
Frostfish, Cherbourg style (1159) - Duchess potatoes (2785) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 
Entrées ee _ Entrées 
eg of mutton a la Chipolata (1625) 
BO ae te hae Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) 


Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 
Pigeons garnished with Montglas cases (1962) 


Chicken sautéd a la Dumas (1888) : 
Baked stuffed tomatoes (2887) Green peas with shedded latino (2747) 





Nearer Roast 
Leg of mutton on the spit (1638) j Mallard ducks (2059) 
Romaine salad (2675) | Water-cress salad (2676) 
Hot Entremets Hot Entremets’ 
Baba Marsala (8002) Orange fritters a la Talleyrand (8045) 
La Grandina ice cream (3556) (Cold) Printaniére crown (8158) 
. Dessert Dessert 
395 OCTOBER. 396 “OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup. Soup 
Cream of rice & la Crémieux (249) Purée of partridge a la d’Henin (276) 
. Side Dish Side Dish 
Rissoles of partridge 4 la Waddington (955) Imperial timbales (968).- 
ea ee Fish 
triped bass, Rouen style (1108) Fresh codfish, Norwegian style (1138 
Potato tartlets (2810) Snow polatien (2798) ee 
Remove | 
Saddle of en rae aigrelette sauce Sirloin of Bey anit ee 
Artichoke bottoms ala Florence (2677) Oyster’ plant with Sie 
: Entrées \ 
Entrées % : 
. 3 ibe rtae Shp Pullet 4 la Villars (1982) - 
Chicken sautéd, point du jour (1902 i 
Fedelini Cardinal (2953) : Mushrooms swith creamaaais) 
Vol-au-vent a la Nesle (2397) eReicdpnatee ee aa 
Young America sherbet (3580) Tosca punch (3519) 
mi ope | Roast 
Partridges (2102) 
PLC English snipe (2159) 
iapony Ralas (2668) Cos lettuce salad (2675) 
Hot Entremets 
Pudding & la de Freese (3099) apolgen meine eee 
(Ices) Hen and chicks (3594) Charlotte Corday ice cream (3546) 


Dessert Wiceuct 





BILLS 


397 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


OCTOBER. 


Sowp 
Purée of wild squabs, Waleski (277) 


Remove 
Carp a la Chambord (1129) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Entrées 
Snipe a l’Africaine (2153) 
Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) 


Chicken sautéd a la Bourguignonne (1884) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Roast 
Teal ducks (2068) 
Cos lettuce salad (2675) 
Hot Entremets 
Knob celeriac fritters (8041) 


(Iced) Diplomate biscuits (3435) 
Dessert 


ORT PATGEE: 121 
398 OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 


Chicken and leeks (298) 


Remove 
Buffalo fish 4 la Bavaroise (1125) 
Potato fritters (2788) 
Entrées 
Roast goose a la Thieblin (1947) 
Macaroni with cream and truffles (2962) 


Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) 
Fried eggplant (2739) 


Roast 


Plovers (2119) 
Cucumber salad (2661) 


Hot Entremets 
Crusts of pears, Douglas (3028) 


Mousse of fruits with pineapple (3474) 
Dessert 





399 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of wild turkey, Sartiges (284) 


Side Dish 
Mousseline of woodcock (918) 
Fish 
Blackfish 4 la Sanford (1115) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Suckling pig 4 la Piedmontese (1809) 

Noodles a la Lauer (2970) 
Entrées 

Pullet a la Seymour (1981) 

Glazed endives (2740) 
English snipe in papers (2158) 
Andalouse sherbet (3522) 


Roast 
Canvasback ducks (2055) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 
Hot Entremets 
Apples with praslin (3000) 


Leona ice cream (3558) 
Dessert: 


4.00 


OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Green turtle (353) 
Side Dish 
Palmettes of pullet 4 la Clinton (9380) 
Fish 
pores fish, green ravigote sauce (1286) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 


Remove 
Roast goose, German style (1948) 
Braised onions (2765) 


Entrées 
Grenadins of beef with celery béchamel (1392) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Gases of thrushes a la Diana (2237) 
Tomatoes Trévise (2836) 


Montmorency punch (8512) 


Roast 
Partridges (2102) 
Water-cress and apple salad (2676) 


Hot Entremets 
Peach pudding, Cleveland (8102) 


Burnt almond Angelica ice cream (3455) 
Dessert 


122 THE EPICUREAN. 
401 OCTOBER. 402 OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Oxtail 4 la Soyer (832) 


Remove 
Baked finnan haddies (1166) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Entrées 
Turkey wings with celery and chestnuts (2089) 
Fried oyster plant (2817) 


Slices of kernel of venison in papers (2182) 
Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 
Roast 
Partridges with gravy (2102) 
Lettuce salad (2672) 
Hot Entremets 


Pancakes a la Déjazet (3072) 
(Ice) Fiori di latte with violettes (3470 
Dessert 


Spanish Oilla (349) 


Remove 
Salmon 4 la moderne (1242) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 
Entrées 
Boiled chicken, English style (1912) 
Lima beans, maitre-d’hétel (2699) 


Grenadins of mutton, poivrade sauce (1609) 
Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) 
Remove | 
English snipe (2159) 
Romaine salad (2675) 
Hot Entremets 
Timbale Figaro (8123) 


Andalusian ice cream (3446) 
Dessert 





4038 OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20-PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of artichokes, Morlaisienne (246) 


Side Dish 
Rissoles of fat liver Ala Ude (951) 


Fish 
Spanish mackerel 4 la Viennet (1197) 
Hollandaise potatoes (2790) 


Remove 
Saddle of venison 4 la MacMahon (2187) 
Macaroni, Parisian style (2961) 


Entrées 
Plovers 4 la Montauban (2114) 
Tomatoes, Provengal style (2835) 


Boudins of chicken au Cardinal (2216) 
Mushrooms, under bells (2761) 


Californian sherbet (3523) 
Roast 
Squabs (2018) 
Celery salad (2660) 


Hot Entremets 
Tyrolian pudding (3111) 


(Iced) Montesquieu plombiére (3480) 
Dessert © 


A404 OCTOBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of lobster 4 la Portland (208) 


Side Dish 
Timbales 4 la Marly (973) 
Fish 
Soles a la Lutéce (1272) 
Potatoes with melted butter (2790) 


Remove 
Pullet 4 la Mornay (1977) 
Fried artichoke bottoms (2683} 


Entrées 
Lamb cutlets 4 la Clémentine (1673) 
String beans a la Bourguignonne (2826) 
Breasts of woodcock & la Vatel (2208) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Trémiere punch (3520) 
Roast 


Blackhead ducks (2052) 
Dandelion salad (2670) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples a4 la Nelson (2991) 
Poupelins (8091) 


(Iced) Romanoff pudding (3497) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 123: 


NOVEMBRE. 405 
DINER DE 24 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA FRANQAISE, 


MENU. 


2 POTAGES. 


Consommé aux nids d’hirondelles (244) 
Tortue verte liée (353) 


2 RELEVES DE POISSON. 


Bass rayéala Rouennaise (1108) 
Crabes @huitres frits (1005) 


2 GROSSES PIECES. 


Baron de mouton au four 4 la purée de pommes (1650) 
Filet de boeuf a la Montebello (1454) 


8 ENTREES. 
Ailes de poulet 4 la Chiselhurst (1837) 
Terrapéne a la Baltimore (1083) 
Ris de veau au chancelier (1569) 
Paté chaud de foies gras a l’Alsacienne (2316) 
Poularde braisée Demidoff (1973) 
Pain de lapereau a la Maintenon (2308) 
Filets de bécasses 4 la Diane (2200) 
Salade de homard a l’Américaine (2638) 


2 PLATS DE ROTS. 


Canards ruddy (2066) 
Chapon au cresson (1826) 


8 ENTREMETS. 


Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Céleri 4 la moelle (2721) 
Fonds d’artichauts Florence (2677) Choux de Bruxelles Baronne (2703) 
Pouding soufflé Saxonne (3107) Glace asperges sauce au marasquin (8540) 
Gelée au kirsch (3187) Bavarois au chocolat (3131) 


2 GROSSES PIECES D’ENTREMETS. 


La hotte 4 la Denivelle (3636) 
Le Char des Cygnes (3634) 


Dessert. 


















1 rR — 7 ye e a ae =" 
~~ ma ny 
me ate a 


Premier Service. 


_ 2 POTAGES. ; 
Consommé Charme! (224) Créme d’orge Viennoise (249) 


* 


Dean 


2 POISSONS. | 


Sheepshead sauce Cardinal (1261). Sandre & la Durance (1218) 2 


2 RELEVES. 


Selle de mouton rétie (1648) Filet de buf A la Cauchoise (1446) 


o> 
= 


6 ENTREES. | ante 
Ailes de poulet A la Cussy (1838) : Pilets de pluvier 4 la Victor Hugo (21 
Ris de veau & la Maltaise (1558) Timbales de levraut (2389) 
Mignons de chevreuil 4 la Lorenzo (2177) Cotelettes de tétras a la Sé 
2 FLANCS. 


Deuxiéme Service. 


2 ROTS. | ae He 
Canards a téte rouge (2063) Poulet a la casserole (1881) 
6 ENTREMETS. | gs 
Céleri 4 la moelle (2721) Haricots verts a la Pettit (2827) eh ; a 
Beignets d’ananas Singapour (3046) Oréme de marrons au caramel 
Bordure Caroline au champagne (3140) Gelée aux fruits (8187) — 
2 RELEVES. : vs A = Grr 4 pre i : 24 E 
Glaces Cantaloup en surprise (3591) _—Biscuit 4 l’Hernani (8228) i 
Dessert. ee tie ss. 
| BUFFET. 
Rosbif d’Aloyau a l’Anglaise (1846) _ - Pommes de terre grillées (2776 
Salade de laitues (2672) Noix de boeuf salée a V’écarlat = 


Potage au riz A la Rudini (348) 


BILLS OF FARE. 125 


NOVEMBRE. AO7 
DINER DE 40 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE. 


MENU. 


BUFFET SEPARE. 


Sherry, Bitters, Canapés d’anchois (777) Radis (808) Olives (800) 
Ktimmel, Vermouth, Céleri en branches (779) 
Absinthe Saumon fumé (822) Caviar (778) Concombres (2661) 
Haut Sauterne Huitres (803) 
POTAGES. 
Aérés Consommé Britannia (221) 


Bisque de crabes (198) 


HORS-D’@UVRE. 


Attéreaux 4 la Piémontaise (840) 
Timbale mosaique (976) 


Johannisberg : POISSONS. 


Flétan 4 la Richmond (1169) 
Redsnapper 4 la Créquy (1233) 


Nuits RELEVES. 


Chapon 4 la Financiére (1823) 
Selle de mouton a la Duchesse (1644) 


Léoville ENTREES. 


Cailles farcies aux champignons (2134) 
Cételettes de chevreuil 4 la Buridan (2170) 
Quenelles de volaille 4 la Drew (2326) 
Filets de tétras 4 la Tzarine (20738) 


Champagne ROTS. 


Ruinart 
Dinde truffée (2031) 
Bécasses sur canapés (2206) 


LEGUMES 


Fonds d’artichauts 4 la Montglas (2679) j 
Choux de Bruxelles 4 la Baronne (2703) 


Chateau Margaus ENTREMETS. 


Beignets de brioche A la creme Sabayon (3040) 
Mirlitons de poires Bienvenue (3054) 


Lunel Gelée a la Russe (8182) 
Tiqueurs | Bombe Romaine (3442) 
Dessert 


. 
> re 


126 THE EPIOUREAN. 


NOVEMBRE : : ‘ | 
DINER DE 16 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L'AMERICAINE, — 


MENU. 


Sherry, Bitters, Huitres (803) , } od 
Vermouth Nhat 


POTAGES. 


Amontillado Consommé 4 la Noailles (237) 
Purée de chapon Jussienne (267) | 


HORS-D’(UVRE. 


Timbales 4 la Irving (969) 


POISSON. 


Zeltinger Soles 4 la Rochelaise (1276) a nnn 
Pommes de terre, persillade (2774) A 


RELEVE. 


Filet de boeuf 4 la Montebello (1454) 3 Bes 
Quartiers d’artichauts a la Villeroi (2688) 


ENTREES. | Bee 


St. Julien Cételettes de mouton aux laitues braisées (1601) 
Macaroni Brignoli (2958) © aa 
Bécassines la Waleski (2155) 
Petits pois a la Parisienne (2745) 
Gunes de foies gras fourrées 4 la financiére (2381) 


Punch & la Stanley (3518) 


ROTS. 
Bataitly Sarcelles (2068) 


Cailles (2131) 
Salade d’escarole (2671) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Orofites de poires 4 la Douglas (3028) 
Pouding de riz & l’Impérial (8494) 
Royal Charter Petits fours (3364) Fromages (3697) Fruits (3699) 
Liqueurs Café (8701) 





BILLS OF FARE. 127 


4.09 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, 


MENU. 


Soup » 
Oxtail 4 la Soyer (832) 


Remove 
Pompano a la Potentini (1225) 
Cucumbers (2661) 
Entrées 


Round buttock top of beef, smothered (1884) 
Potatoes 4 la Parmentier (2811) 


Pullet ala Zingara (1983) 
Brussels sprouts, baroness (2703) 
Roast 


Hare backs with cream (2076) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Celeriac fritters (3041) 


Parfait with almonds (3478) 
Dessert 


4.10 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Oysters, American style (833) 


Remove 
Striped bass with fine herbs (1112) 
Potato fritters (2788) 
Entrées 
Rump of beef a Ja Jardiniére (1348) 
Noodles a la Lauer (2970) 


Duck paupiettes with risot (1928) 
Tomatoes & la Boquillon (2888) 


Roast 


Plovers (2119) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 


Rice croquettes with orange raspberry sauce 
(3018) 

(Ice) Mousse of fruits with pineapple (8474) 
Dessert 





411 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé with Lasagnettes (839) 


Side Dish 
Mousseline of woodcock (918) 


Fish 
Halibut 4 la Richmond (1169) 
Potato tartlets (2810) 


Remove 
Saddle of venison a la gastronome (2191) 
Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) 


Entrées 
ene. ala Reaeatensano. fried (1982) 
Glazed endives (2740) 


Sweetbreads a la Marsilly (1559) 
String beans 4 la Pettit (2827) 


Stanley punch (3518) 


Roast 
Plovers (2119) 
Fondu with Piedmontese truffles (2954) 


Hot Entremets 
Apples with burnt almonds (3000) 


(Ice) Mokabelle (8565) 
Dessert 


412 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of lettuce 4 la Evers (258) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes a la Périer (922) 
Fish 


Striped bass a la Whitney (1109) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Kernel of veal with half glaze (1522) 
Stuffed cucumbers (2734) 


_ Entrées 
Fillets of partridge 4 la Lucullus (2088) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


Chicken sautéd 4 la Maryland (1894) 
Eggplants in cases 4 la Morton (2736) 


Venetian sherbet (8529) 


Roast 
Saddle of venison (2194) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Peach pudding a la Cleveland (3102) 


(Ice) Montesquien plombiére (38180) 
Dessert 


% ‘ ire = wy 
. ng 7 Wes 
128 THE EHPICUREAN. ae 
413 _ NOVEMBER. 414. NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup : Soup 


Purée of young rabbit, St. James (274) . 


Remove 
Baked sole, Italian style (1279) 


Entrées 
Chicken fricassee (1861) 
Creamed macaroni with truffles (2962) 


Rack of venison roasted, Colbert sauce (2169) 
String beans & la Pettit (2827) 


Roast 


Teal ducks (2068) 
Hot potato salad (2654) 


Hot Entremets 
Soufflé fritters, Médicis (3047) 


(Iced) Biscuit Diplomate (84385) 
Dessert 


Giblets A la Réglain (311) 


Remove 
Flounders a la Genlis (1154) 
Mashed potatoes (2798) 
Entrées | 
Pullet 4 la Léondise (1974) 
Pumpkin fried in small sticks (2814) 


Noisettes of fillet of beef a la fleurette (1418) 
Lima beans, maitre-d’hotel (2699) 
Roast 
Plovers (2119) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Cream with apples (3014) 


Macaroon mousse (3477) 
Dessert 





4.15 


NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Consommé, Plumerey (238) 


Side Dish 
Mousseline, Waleski (916) 


Fish 
Canadian turbot 4 la d’Orléans (1804) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 


Remove 
Loin of deer, cherry sauce (2168) 
Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) 


Entrées 
Pullet a la Mornay (1977) 
Marrow squash with parmesan (2824) 


Cases of English snipe A la Caréme (2228) 
Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) 
Paquerette sherbet (3527) 


Roast 
Mallard ducks (2059) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Condé peaches (3081) 


(Iced) Timbale, Algerian style (3580) 
Dessert 


NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup : 
Bisque of crawfish 4 la Humboldt (203) 


Side Dish — 
Palmettes of quails, African style (931) 
Fish 
Soles a la Trouville (1277) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


4.16 


Remove 
Sirloin of beef 4 la Bradford (1349) 
; Eggplant, Duperret (2735) 
weed Entrées 
Paupiettes of young turkey, souvenir (2045) 
Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) 


Tournedos of venison, St. Hubert :(2197) 
Smothered string beans (2828) 


' Pargny punch (3514) 


Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 
Salad . 


Hot Entremets 
Timbale Figaro (38123) 


(iced) Plombiére 4 la Rochambeau (3482) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 129 


A117 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Mock turtle thickened (355) 


Remove 
Haddock, Ancient style (1164) 
Persillade potatoes (2774) 
Entrées 
Quarter of pork, Valenciennes(1797) 
Chopped lettuce (2751) 


Chicken fricassee 4 la Lucius (1865) 
Macaroni spaghetti, Laurence (2966) 
Roast 
Plovers (2119) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Soufflé of chestnuts with vanilla (8118) 


Caramel ice cream (3447) 
Dessert 





419 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Oysters (803) 


Soup 
Clear terrapin (350) 


Side Dish 
Timbales a la Marly (978) 


Fish 
Turban of smelts (2393) 
Potato croquettes (2782) 


pene Remove 
Baron of yearling lamb a la de Rivas (1661) 
Okra with barley croustades (2763) — 
Entrées 
Slices of kernel of venison 4 Ja Hussarde (2181) 
Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


Squab breasts A la Duxelle, stuffed (2019) 
String beans & |’Albani (2825) 
Montmorency punch (3512) 


Roast 
Partridge a la Soyer (2097) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Crust of pears, Douglas (3028) 


Madrilian ice cream (8562) 
Dessert 


418 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. 
Soup 
Spaghetti with cream (848) 


Remove 


Striped bass, Hollandaise sauce (1110) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 


Entrées 


Braised chicken with noodles (1918) 
Carrots, Viennese style (2713) 


‘* Pains” of young rabbit (2549) 
Chestnuts with gravy (2727) 
Roast 


Brant ducks (2053) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Light pudding with almonds (3112) 


Plombiére d’Alengon (3483) 
Dessert 


San EERE 


420 NOVEMBER, 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of shrimps, Bretonne (218) 


Side Dish 
Brissotines of game, Lyonnese (850) 
Fish 
Sole fillets, Venetian style (1278) ° 
Broiled potatoes (2776) 


Remove 
Turkey with cépes (2030) 
_ Tagliarelli in croustade (2986) 


Entrées 
Young rabbit a la Celtoise (2137) 
Sautéd string beans (2829) 


Sweetbreads, St. Cloud (1566) 
Macédoine a la Montigny (2755) 
Mephisto sherbet (3524) 


Roast 
Ptarmigan (2072) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Biscuits Frascati (8004) 


(Ice) Pudding Fleury (8493) 
Dessert 


136 THE EPICUREAN. a 


421 NOVEMBER. 4.22 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Purée of English snipes a la Théo (271) 


Remove 
Spotted fish, Queen sauce (1285) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 
Entrées 
Leg of lamb a la Guyane (1708) 
Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 


Duck with sauerkraut (1925) 
Beetroot fritters (2702) 
Roast 
Young rabbits larded and roasted (2142) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Noodle crescents with cherries (8015) 


(Ices) Mushrooms (8568) 
Dessert 





423 NOVEMBER. 
DINNER, 12 TO 16 PERSONS 


MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque of shrimps a la Veragua (211) 


Side Dish 
Cromesquis of beef palate (867) 


Fish 
Canadian turbot 4 la Houston (1805) 
Broiled potatoes (2776) 


Remove 
Saddle of venison, Tyrolese style (2189) 
Stuffed green peppers (2768) 
Entrées 
Duck with cépes (1922) 
Tomatoes Trévise (2836) 


Sweetbreads au Chancelier (1569) 
String beans sautéd (2829) 


Soufflé of partridges a la Huggins (2364) 
Roman punch (8515) 
Roast 
Capon (1826) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Chestnut croquettes (8017) 


(Ices) The marvelous (3563) 
Dessert 


Cream of peas with mint (261) 


Remove 
Stuffed fillets of sole (1281) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 
Entrées 
Cutlets of lamb 4 la Clémence (1678) 
Artichoke bottoms, Soubise (2681) 


Jugged hare (2075) 
Macaroni purée of game (2968) 
Roast 
Mongrel ducks, stuffed (1929) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) 


(Ices) Tortoni cups (8584) 
Dessert 


SaMEeeonen 
a4 : NOVEMBER. 


DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Cream of cardoons, Livingston (252) 


Side Dish 
Cassolettes 4 la Lusigny “360) 
Fish 
Redsnapper, Mobile (1235) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 


Remove 
Tenderloin of beef & la Chanzy (1447) 
Squash with parmesan (2824) 


Entrées 
Fricasseed turkey (2038) 
Sautéd Brussels sprouts (2704) 


Quails a la Mirepoix (2125) 
Celery béchamel with crotitons (2720) 


Paradise sherbet (3525) 


Roast 
Canvasback ducks garnished with hominy 


(2055) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Apples, Baron de Brisse (2993) 


(Ices) Nest with eggs (3594) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. | 13] 


DECEMBRE. | 425 
DINER DE 16 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA FRANQAISE. 


MENU. 


Premier Service. 
POTAGES. 


Consommé aux nids d’hirondelles (244) 
Jarrets de veau & la Briand (819) 


HORS-D’CUVRE. 


Croquettes de crabes Parmentier (879) 
Timbales Princesse (980) 


RELEVES. 


Flétan a la Reynal (1171) 
Filet de boeuf & la Mélinet (1452) 


ENTREES. 


Epigrammes de levrauts A la Polignac (2078) 
Ailes de poulet 4 la Béranger (1834) | 
Paté chaud de ris de veau a la McAllister (2313) 
Filets de pigeons aux olives (1970) 
Quenelles de volaille 4 la Drew (2326) 
Soufflé de gibier 4 la Lucie (2362) 


Deuxiéme Service. 
Punch Elisabeth (3507) 


ROTS. 


Canvasback (Canards sauvages) (2055) Perdreaux (2102) 


ENTREMETS. 


Fonds d’artichauts a la Villars (2682) 
Pointes d’asperges Miranda (2696) 
Pouding Tyrolienne (3111) 
Gelée aux ananas Californienne (3178) 
Brouette garnie de fleurs sur socles (8638) Panier de cerises (3630) 
Géteau Reine (3256) Baba siropé (3227) 


Dessert 


A es Ao Ne ae Se i 
eck, i ee ae Te oh ; eae 
132 “THE EPICURBAN. j i : 
DECEMBRE, | LVN OME ae 


DINER DE 20 COUVERTS—SERVICE A LA RUSSE, 
MENU. 


Huitres (803) _ 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Impératrice (231) © 
Bisque de lucines a la Hendrick con 


HORS-D’(EUVRE 


Orétes de coq farcies Duxelle (863) 
Bouchées a la purée de gibier (936) 


RELEVES. 
Aiguillettes de bass noir aux crabes d’huitres (1096) 
Selle d’antilope 4 la chasseresse (2185) 


ENTREES. 
Bordure de poulet & la Toulouse (2210) 
Vol-au-vent 4 l’Ancienne (2398) 
Ris de veau au chancelier (1569) a 
Timbale de truffes & la Pega 2846) 





ROTS. 


Ruddy duck (2066) 
Cailles au cresson (2181) 


LEGUMES. 


Tomates farcies aux champignons frais (2842) | 
Petits pois Parisienne (2745) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Péches Richelieu (3088) 
Paniers d’oranges a la gelée (3130) 
Flamri de semoule (8168) 
Bavarois aux marrons (3136) 
GLACES. 


Poules avec Poussins (3594) 
Compotes (3686) Bonbons (3642) 
Fruits frais (3699) Devises (8653) 
Petits fours (3364) Amandes Salées (3696) 


Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 133 


DECEMBRE. 4.27 
DINER DE 24 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE, 


MENU. 


POTAGES, — 


Potage de bécasses (360) 
Créme de légumes 4 la Banville (266) 


POISSON. 


Turbot Anglais sauce aux capres (1307) 
Pommes de terre Viennoise (2812) 


GROSSE PIECE. 


Filet de boeuf 4 la d’Orléans (1450) 
Haricots verts étuvés (2828) 


ENTREES. 


Ailes de poulet 4 la Primatice (1851) 
Ris de veau Maltaise (1558) 
Quenelles de poulet 4 la Bretonne (2328) 
Casserole de ris garnie de poulet Palestine (2239) 


ROT, 


Dindon farci aux marrons (2041) 


FROID. 


Terrine de foies de canards a l’Aquitaine (2596) 
Salade d’escarole (2671) 


RELEVES. 


Beignets soufflés Médicis (8047) 
Compiégne au Sabayon (3009) 


ENTREMETS. 
Petits pois & Anglaise (2742) 
Asperges & la Hollandaise (2692) 


Pain de bananes Havanaise (8195) 
Couronne & la Oamper (8154) 


Gelée aux violettes (3185) Eclairs au chocolat (8308) 
BUFFET. 
Aloyau & la Norwood (1848) Selle de mouton rotie 4 la broche (1648) 
Pouding Yorkshire (770) Pommes roties (2771) 


Tarte aux pommes (3199) Consommé aux ravioles et aux perles (359) 


De cia ae Cheesy ee ee ee 


134 


DECEMBRE, 


MENU. 


- Hnftres (808) 


POTAGES. | 


Consommé a la Berry (220) 3 
Bisque d’écrevisses a la Bateliére (202) 


- HORS-D’UVRE. 


Bouchées Andalouse (934) 


POISSONS. 


Bass rayé ala Whitney (1109) 
Blanchaille 4 la Greenwich 510) 


RELEVE. 


Filets de boeuf 4 la Condé (1448) 
Céleri a PEspagnole (2721) _ 


ENTREES. 


Filets de poulet 4 la Sadi-Carnot (1853) 
Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise (2742) 
Cételettes de chevreuil Cauchoise (2171) 
Epinards Béchamel (2820) 2 
Soufilés de foies gras aux tutes k 





Punch Tournesol (3517) 


ROT. 
Bécasses (2206) 
Salade de laitues (2672) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES 


Baquet de gaufres 4 la créme (3128) 
Gateau moka (3249) Macaronade (8188) 
Palais de dames & la Vanille (8358) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Café (3701) . 


BILLS OF FARE. pee. 135 


429 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Westmoreland (357) 


Remove 
Flounders, Joinville (1155) 
Boiled potatoes (2774) 
Entrées 
Shoulder of lamb a la Garnier (1750) 
Cucumbers breaded, English style (2732) 
Fillets of Guinea fowl with sauerkraut (1958) 


Roast 
English snipe (2159) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Meringued pancakes, Rossini (3078) 


(Ice) Montélimar with hazel-nut cream (3566) 
Dessert 


4380 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Lentils, Chantilly (278) 


Remove 
Soles 4 la Colbert (1271) 
Cucumbers (2661) 
Entrées 


Rack of pork on the spit (1799) 
Stuffed turnip cabbage (2709) 


Chicken fricassee 4 la Waleski (1866) 
Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) 
Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Fritters souffiéd, Médicis (3047) 


Caramel ice cream (3447) 
Dessert 





437 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Purée of young rabbit, St. James (274) 


Side Dish 
Rissoles of sweetbreads (954) 
Fish 
Spotted fish, Calcutta (1287) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Remove 
Rack of mutton with small roots (1648) 
Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) 
Entrées 
Chicken with oyster sauce (1882) 
Green peas, French style (2743) 


Salmis of woodcock a la Beaumont (2207) 
Minced cépes in croustades (2725) 


Venetian sherbet (3529) 


Roast 
Turkey stuffed, American style (2028) 
Hot Entremets 
Apples with burnt almonds (3000) 


(Ices) Léona (3558) 
Dessert. 


482 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 
Soup 
Chicken gumbo (299) 
Side Dish 
Attéreaux of oysters (839) 
Fish 
Streaked turban of flukes (2393) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 
Remove 
Braised turkey 4 la financiére (2026) 
Stuffed tomatoes with fresh mushrooms (2842) 
Entrées 
Sweetbreads a la Marsilly (1559) 
Celeriac, Mirabeau (2722) 
Salmis of quails 4 la Morisini (2132) 
Mushrooms stuffed in cases (2762) 
Siberian punch (38516) 
Roast 
Canvasback ducks garnished with hominy 
(2055) 
Hot Entremets 
Peach pudding a la Cleveland (3102) 


Burnt almond angelica ice cream (3455) 




















AC ae AEs CAEL EPICURBAN. 7 
4.33 DECEMBER. | A384 Sab DECEMBER. | I ote 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. — DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS, 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup Soup 


Bouillabaisse (289) Gnocquis a la stoke oD) 


Remove Ronee 


Flounders a la Dieppoise (1153) 


Boudins of salmon with shrimps (2221) ; 
Duchess poe (2785) 


Dauphine potatoes (2788) 





Entrées 


“Stuffed chicken with tomato Condé sauce (98) 
Ravioles, Bellini (2976) 


Entrées 


Stuffed hare 4 la chatelaine (2074) 
Tomatoes, Frossart (2834) 


Mutton cutlets & la Maréchale (1595) 


Chicken sautéd a la Diva (1886). 
String ee sautéd with butter 2820) 


Green peas, Parisian style (2745) 


‘Roast Foast 
Squabs (2018) Pheasants (2107) 
Salad Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Crusts with fruit, Mirabeau (8025) 


(Ice) Pudding Constance (3490) 
Dessert 


Hot Entremets 
Fritters, Montagnard (8037). 


- (ee) Mousse a la Siraudin e472) 
Dessert 


Ape =: DECEMBER. 436 DECEMBER. — 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. % 
Soup | Soup — | ; 
Bisque of shrimps, Melville (212) Consommé, Bariatenski (219) 
Side Dish Side Dish _ 2 an 
Croquettes of grouse, Soubise (886) Bondons of woodcock A la Diane (845) 
Fish Fish aa 


Weakfish ala Brighton (1808) 


Hollandaise pot gee (2790) Striped bass with white wine (1118) 


Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Remove 
Ribs of beef a la Bristed (1829) : ag Cee <a 
Fried eggplant (2739) igi Pullet with ravioles (1995) 
String beans sautéd (2829) — 
Entrées 
Chicken breasts 4 la Bodisco (1885) Entrées 
Carrots, Viennese style (2718) " Noisettes of tenderloin of beef Ala Maire cu) 
Young rabbit, hunter’s style (2140) Clad CU CHORE aaa 
Tomatoes, Trévise (2836) Vol-au-vent of frogs’ legs, Soubise (2401) | 
Sunflower punch (8517) Parfait amour sherbet (3526) 
- Metis Roast 
eedbirds (2152) ‘ 
Salat Ruddy Mee (2066) 
Hot Entremets 
: Hot Entremets 
Meri d h 
echt eta ca hee Pudding a la Bradley (3093) 
(Ice) Parfait with coffee (3479) (Ice) Italian mousse (3475) 


Dessert Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. | 137 


437 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 

Oysters a la Cruyst (334) 
Remove 

Turbot a la Mercier (1306) 

Boiled potatoes (2774) 
Entrées 
‘Pullet with croustades 4 la Financiére (1993) 
Artichoke bottoms with marrow (2687) 


Noisettes of tenderloin of beef 41a Fleurette 
(1418) 
Green peas, French style (27438) 
Roast 
Teal ducks (2068) 
Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Rice border with bananas (38005) 


(Ices) Fiori di latte 4 la Orlandini (3468) 
Dessert 


A838 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Frogs, garnished with timbales (309) 


Remove 
Flounders, Madeleine (1157) 
Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Entrées 


Leg of mutton 4 la Bourgeoise (1624) 
Mushrooms a la Reynal (2756) 


Chicken broiled a la Delisle (1828) 
String beans a la Pettit (2827) 
Roast 
Woodcock (2206) 

Salad 
Hot Entremets 
Brioche fritters with cream sabayon (3040) 


(Ice) Serano pudding (8498) 
Dessert 


a 


439 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 to 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup. 
Calf’s tail & la Rundell (294) 


Side Dish 
Palmettes 4la Périer (922) 


Fish 
Sole a la Lutéce (1272) 
Duchess potatoes (2785) 


Remove 
Saddle of mutton with glazed roots (1649) 
Macaroni Brignoli (2958) 


Entrées 
. Breaded tenderloin of pork, celery purée (1818) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 


Quails stuffed with mushrooms (2134) 
Parisian salad (2644) 


Rebecca sherbet (3528) 


Roast 
Plovers (2119) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Humboldt pudding (3100) 


(Ices) Potatoes (3575) 
Dessert 





440 DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. 


MENU. 


Soup 
Hungarian consommé (235) 


Side Dish 
Ham mousselines, Robertson (915) 
Fish 
Striped bass, shrimp sauce (1111) 
Marchioness potatoes (2797) 


Remove 
Saddle of venison, hunter’s style (2185) 
Jerusalem artichokes 4 la Salamander (2749) 


Entrées 
Stuffed tame duck a la Britannia (1917) 
Trévise tomatoes (2836) 


Noisettes of beef, mushroom purée (1420) 
Russian salad (2645) 


Champagne punch (3504) 


Roast 
Capon (1826) 
Salad 


Hot Entremets 
Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) 


(ice) Cherry plombieére (8485) 
Dessert 


138 THE EPICUREAN. 
AAl1 - DECEMBER. 442 _ DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. MENU. 
Soup 
Soup 
Crabs a la Loubat (808) 
Ravioles with Nizam pearls (359) 
Remove 


Remove 


Black bass with sweet peppers (109 
Haddock, Holland style (1165) peppers (1097) 


Viennese potatoes (2812) 
Entrées 


Loin of pork a la Réglain (1796) 
Cucumbers breaded, English style (2782) 


Entrées 


Mutton cutlets 4 la Macédoine (1594) 
Baked eggplant (2738) 





Fillets of young rabbit a la Bienvenue, gar- Mallard duck with celery, half-glaze (2060) 
nished with croquettes (2148) he 
String beans a la Pettit (2827) Braised pullet with jelly (2570) 
Roast | Roast 
Squabs in earthenware saucepan (2018) Partridges with water-cresses (2102) 
Salad Salad 
Hot Entremets Hot Entremets 
Peaches a la Condé (8081) Custard cream with apples (3014) 
(Ice) Biscuit glacé, Diplomate (34385) (Ice) Plombiére d’Alencgon (8483) 
Dessert Dessert 
$F. 
443 DECEMBER. 444. DECEMBER. 
DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. 
MENU. ; MENU. 
_ Soup Soup 
Consommé a la Dubarry (229) Consommé, Andalouse (216) 
Side Dish P , 
, Side Dish 
Attéreaux of turkey (842) Timbales, Soubise (986) 
hares Fish oh 
anadian turbot a la d’Orléans (1304 : oe 
Potatoes persillade re ) Striped bass with fine herbs (1112) 
Potato tartlets (2810) 
Remove 
Mutton with Gastronome potatoes (1642) Remove 
Asparagus, Countess (2698) Redhead duck, Baréda (2062) 
: Artichoke bottoms, Mornay (2686) 
Entrées 
__ Turkey with cépes (2030) Entrées 
Risot with Piedmontese truffles (2981) Veal cutlets, Pogarski (2273) 


Green peas, housekeeper’s style (2744) 
Young hare, Castiglione (2077) 


Teltow turnips with chestnuts (2849) Fillets of young rabbit 4 la Lavoisier (2144) 
Brussels sprouts a la Baroness (2703) 


Paradise sherbet (8525) 


Champagne punch (3504) 


Roast 
Redhead ducks (2068) Roast 
Salad Pullets (1996) 
Hot Entremets cae 
Peaches a la Colbert (3080) Hot Entremets 


(Ice) Bomb with prunelle (3443) Chestnut ree eae 
Dessert (Ice) Fiori di latte, Orlandini (3468) 





BILLS OF FARE. 139 


JANUARY. 4.45 
DANCING PARTY OF 100 PERSONS—SERVED FRENCH STYLE, 


REFRESHMENTS AND SUPPER. 
BILL OF FARE. 


First Service, 11 o’clock. 


Genoeses with cream meringued (3308) Condé cakes (3297) Varied fruit tartlets (3337) 
Africans (8364) Macaroons (3379) 
Refreshments 
Lemonade, Orgeat and Grenadine syrup. 


Second Service, 12 o’clock. 


Assorted ice creams (3538) Rolled wafers with Ouragoa cream (3224) 
Iced biscuits with vanilla (3488) Fancy cakes (3364) 
Tutti frutti biscuit (8586) Small cream biscuits (3137) 
Hot wine (3715) Champagne punch (3714) 


Third Service, 1 o’clock. 


SUPPER (HOT). 


Consommé (189) Chicken croquettes exquisite (877) 
Victoria patties (942) Coffee and milk (8701) 
Venetian timbales (989) Escalops of fat livers 4 la Villeneuve (2279) 
COLD. 


Roast capon and water cress (1826) 
Galantine of pigeons (2496) 
Terrine of snipe (2603) 
Tenderloin of beef with macédoine croustades (2440) 
Small ‘‘ pain” of capon with tarragon (2542) 
Shrimp salad (2647) 
Sandwiches of different meats (815) 
Small rolls with lobster (809) 


SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. 


Thin chocolate wafers (3362) _ Fruit jellies (3187) 
Fresh fruits (8699) Varied ice cream (3538) 


Assorted fancy cakes (3364) 


Champagne. 











140 ae 


i - SOUPER DE 80 COUVERIS—SERVICE A LAMERICAINE, 


ay 
ae 
a 


‘a % 
iT > 7 
bs 
: iF iC ise fe ' 
a — 
ea oy a ey \ 
2 > 
ee Be ea 
a ee ‘ 
} 
f 


\ MENU. ‘eo . 
Huitres (803) | 
Consommé en tasses (189) 
Radis (808) Olives (800) Céleri en branches (779) 


Homard ala Hervey (1034) 


Croquettes de chapon royale (876) 
Filet de boouf 41a Milanaise (1453) _ Pes 
Petits pois A’Anglaise (2742) 


Ailes de poulet & la Lucullus (1846) 3 | 
Fonds d’artichauts a la Soubise (2681) ee 
- ‘Terrapone & la 


Mousseline de foies gras 4 la Dana (2535) 


a Ji ares! 


Célestine de poularde a la Talleyrand (2450) 


Salade d’écrevisses 4 la Maintenon (2629) : 


\ cee 
Pigeonneaux rotis 4 la casserole (2018) 
Truffes en serviette (2848) _ 1: ear 


Flamri a la créme (8167) 
Gelée Tunisienne rubanée (3184) 
Gelée au marasquin (3186) 


Pouding glacé a la Duchesse (8492) | | 
Ceylan au café (8545) 


Fruits (8699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises 


Oafé (3701) toe | Ree = 


BILLS OF FARE. 14] 


MARS, ~ 4.47 
SOUPER DE 30 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE, 


MENU. 
Graves Huitres (803) 
Lafaurie Canapés d’écrevisses (777) Salade d’anchois (772) 
Beurre (775) Radis (808) Olives (800) 


Consommé en tasses (189) 


Purée de volaille 4 la Reine (270) 


Niersteiner -Croquettes de poulet & la Hongroise (878) 
Si Canapés 4 la Lorenzo (855) 


Cételettes d’agneau a4 la Maison d’Or (1679) 


Pigeonneaux & la Flourens (2009) 


Galantine de faisan découpée (2495) 
Paté de foies gras découpé (2563) 


Chambertin Poularde rétie trufiée (1992) 
Salade Impériale (2634) 


Gelée au marasquin (3186) 
Pommery Charlotte Bengalienne (3142) 


Glace mousse aux marrons (3477) 


Malaga Petites glaces moulées variées (8431) 
Café glacé (3609) 


Fruits (3699) Petits fours (8364) 
Bonbons (8642) Devises (8658) 


Violettes pralinées (3659) 


Dessert 


Champagne glacé (8710) 


Seen bee re tern Pp ee anne oe bey ee 
RS iE 2 
>a y UJ y 


142 THE EPIOUREAN. ~~ 99) | 


SIDEBOARD SUPPER FOR 300 PERSONS—RUSSIAN SERVIOE. 


BILL OF FARE. 


Consommeé (189) Cream of rice Crémieux (249) 
Truffled ham 4 la Florian (2523) Chaudfroid of fillets of redhead duck (2460) 
Decorated galantines of eels (2488) Foies gras in border (2483) 
Cold chicken fricassee (2467) | Shrimp salad (2647) 
Caviare (778) Lemonsand oranges (793) Small fancy rolls with lobster (809) _ 
7 Assorted canapés (777) Assorted sandwiches (811) 


ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. 


2 Vases of drawn sugar with flowers (3637) 


Savoy biscuit (8231) Baba syruped (3227) 
Cream with cherries (8154) Macédoine champagne jelly (8179) 
Bavarois with meringues (8138) High stands of assorted fancy cakes (3364) 
Plates filled with bonbons (3642) | Basket of fresh fruits (3699) 


' Preserves (3684) 


. 


SUPPER, HOT AND COLD FOR 200 PERSONS. 


On twenty tables, ten persons to each. 


Consommé (189) Purée of chicken Dufferin (269) 
Darne of salmon & la Duperré (1240) Crab salad (2628) 
Chicken fillets au supréme (1858) Squabs a la Flourens (2009) | 
Artichoke bottoms a la Villars (2682) Green peas, French style (2743) 
Roast pheasant (2107) Roast turkey with water-cress (2028) ‘ 
Fruit jelly with kirsch (3187) . Bengalian Charlotte (8142) 


Peaches & la Louvoisienne (3198) 


SIDEBOARD FOR TEA, REFRESHMENTS AND ICES. 


Tea (3704) Coffee (8701) Punch (8501) Chocolate (3700) 
Strawberry mousse (3474) Small ices (3431) 


American sherbet (3521) Lemonade (3718) Tea cakes (3339) 





BILLS OF FARE. 143 


SOUPER ASSIS DE 35 COUVERTS—SERVICE A L’AMERICAINE, 


MENU. 


Canapés de sardines (777) Anchois (772) Céleri en branches (779) Radis (808) 


Lucines orarngées (803) 


Consommé de volaille en tasses (190) 


Homard 4 la Hervey (1034) 
Croquettes de palais de boeuf (875) 
Petits pois 4 Anglaise (2742) 
Cotelettes d’agneau a la Talma (1687) 


Haricots verts a la Pettit (2827) 


Ailes de poulet 4 la Lorenzo (1845) 


Tomates farcies Provencale (2835) 


Chapon roti (1826) 


Salade de pommes de terre en bordure aux truffes (2655) 


Gelée au marasquin (3186) 
Charlotte Russe (8145) 


Glace bombe 4 la Trobriand (3440) 


Glaces moulées variées (3431) 


Fruits (8699) Petits fours (3364) 
Café (3701) 


1a 


- Haut Sauterne 


Champagne 
Perrier-Jouét 


Chambertin 





SOUPER ASSIS 40 COUVERTS. 
MENU. 
_ Lucines orangées (808) | | | 
Caviar (778)  Salade d’anchois (772) Olives (800) 
Consommé (189) 


Truites de ruisseau a la Caréme ( 2611) 
Salade de concombres 2601) 


Attéreaux de ris de veau 4 la moderne (841) 


Filets de volaille 4 la Cussy (1838) 
Petits pois 4 Anglaise (2742) 






Petits pains de volaille 4 l’écarlate (2548) 
Dome de homard garni de petites cais: 


Canetons rotis (1921) ; 
Salade de truffes a la Gambetta ne 


Gelée macédoine au ee oi (81 79) 


 Glaces Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) > es 
Le apt orné de sucre filé (3598) 


Lge 


Fruits cristallisés (8659) Petits fours (3364) 
Bonbons (8642) Devises Gere 
Fruits frais (8699) 
Café (3701) 


BILLS OF FARK. 


JULY. a. 


AMBIGU PICNIOC—60 PERSONS. 


BILL OF FARE. 


_/ HORS-D’@UVRE. 


Herring salad with potatoes (2633) 
| Beef sandwiches a la Barlow (812) 
. Chicken sandwiches (813) 
Okra and sweet pepper salad (2651) 


Small sturgeon Livonienne style (2594) 
Tenderloin of beef with vegetables, mayonnaise (2441) 
Smoked red beef tongue (2608) 
Pigeon galantines (2496) ~ 


Veal and ham pie (2568) 
Duckling with Spanish olives (2482) 
Leg of mutton a la Garrison (25380) 


Broiled chicken (1881) 
Frog salad (2632) 


Lobster salad, American style (2638) Bagration salad (2622) 
Apricot flawn (3170) | 
Punch cake with rum (8255) 
‘Charlotte Russe (3145) 
Bavarois with meringues (8133) 


Raspberries and cream (38699) 


Ice Cream. 
Vanilla (3458) Strawberry water ice (3607) Chocolate (3449) 
White coffee (8460) Iced biscuit with vanilla (3438) 
Fruits (8699) Fancy cakes (8364) 


Coffee (8701) 


Dessert 


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Cheese, crackers, salted 








Caviar, olives, butter, radishes 





Lobster rémoulade Sheepshead with jelly 







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Toasted bread covered with chicken and bacon 






Meringue bavaroise cream Macédoine jelly 
Pain of calf liver, Salpicon 


Ribs of beef en bellevue Turkey in daube, Verneuil 
















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Canapés of anch 


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BILLS OF FARE. 147 


SEPTEMBER. ; 4:52 


AMBIGU—200 PERSONS. 


Radishes (808) Celery (779) 
Butter (775) Gherkins (785) 
Olives (800) Red cabbage, marinated, English style (776) 
Caviar (778) Chow-chow (791) 
Salted almonds (3696) Hard-boiled eggs on canapés (777) 
Marinated cauliflower (776) Anchovy salad (772) 


Potato salad with herring (2658) 


Slices of salmon with jelly (2578) 
Roasted peacock adorned with its plumage (2552) = Galantine of suckling pig (2498) 
Kernel of veal with mayonnaise tomatoed sauce (2527) Beef ala mode (2433) 
Capon ine with truffles (1826) Cold snipe pie (2567) 


Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) 


Small ‘‘ pain” of chicken a la Freycinet (2544) Galantine of gosling, melon shaped (2489) 


Pork liver terrine (2551) Japanese salad (2636) 
Barlow sandwiches (812) Rillettes (809) 
Slices of bread and butter (820) Sandwiches with anchovies (816) 


French roll sandwiches, American style (816) 
Assorted ice cream (3538) 
Fancy cakes (3364) Fruits (8699) 


Claret punch (3714) Lemonade (3713) 


Iced coffee (3609) Iced chocolate (3608) 





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OCTOBER. | ere 


BILL OF FARE. 


LARGE PIECES. 
Chicken pie (2554) eu Ribs of beef & la bourgeois es 
Ham glazed with sugar (2522) | 


ENTREES. 









Ballotines of quails la Tivolier (2426) - | Decorated darne of salmon 

Cutlets of pheasant in chaudfroid (2477) Smoked red beef bonnes I 
Lamb cutlets, Imperial (2471) 

Lobster salad, American style (2638) 


RESERVE. 


Chickens (2469) and tongues (2608) 
Terrine of es Wee (2602) 


PASTRY PIECES. 3 
Fleury cake (3237) : te Nougatine cake 
Savoy biscuit (8231) ene if 


SWEET DISHES OF SMALL PASTRIES AND 108s. Uietiees 

Pear tartlets (8837) Agron (3349) ‘a | | 
Espagnolettes (8346) . Apricot nougat (8819) ae. : 

Nantes cakes (3852) . Small fetes. icon 

Japanese cakes (3347) : 

Biscuits glacés (8438) sé Pain” of bananas, Havan 8¢ 
Malakoff cream (3150) 7. Surprise Bayarois 

Jelly with fruit and kine (8187) . 


HOT SERVICE ON SIDEBOARD. 


Bisque of clams 4 la Hendrick (197) Create of barley, Vienna beyle (249) 
Roast pullets (1996) 


BILLS OF FARE. 149 


NOVEMBRE. 454. 


SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS DE 400 PERSONNES. 


MENU BUFFET. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé de gibier (192) 
Mousseline Isabelle (912) 
Huitres 4 la Hollandaise (1066) 
Huitres frites 4 la Orly (1060) 
Bouchées a la Victoria (942) 
Quenelles de tétras 4 la Londonderry (2332) 

Pétoncles & la Brestoise (1074) 
Queues de homard 4a la Stanley (1042) 
Terrapéne & la Baltimore (1083) 

Café (3701) Thé (8704) 


FROID. 


Saumon de l’Orégon a la Vénitienne (2587) 
Filet de boeuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) 
Galantine de dinde & la Berger (2499) 
Langue de boeuf écarlate en arcade (2607) 


Bécasses 4 la Valére (2619) Aspie de foies gras (2411) 
Mousseline de kingfish 4 la Briére (2536) Poulet roti garni de gelée (2469) 
Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) Salade de homard a l’Américaine (2638) 
Sandwichs de gibier (814) Rillettes (809) Canapés (777) 


ENTREMETS SUCRES ET DESSERT. 


Pouding Valois (8211) Gelée aux framboises (3183) 
Gateau Vacherin a la créme (8264) Savarin 4 la Valence (3259) 


GLACES VARIEES. 


Fruits (8699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642): Devises (8653) 
Champagne glacé (3710) 


Le souper est dressé en buffet, ensuite servi sur des petites tables de cinq a dix couverts, on 
découpe le froid que V’on dresse sur des petits plats que l’on place sur chacune des tables ainsi 
que le hors d’ceuvre froid. Avant de servir l’entremet sucré et le dessert on remplace le froid et le 
hors d’euvre par les gelées poudings, gateaux, fruits, etc. Le chaud est au choix des convives- 


150 THE EPICUREAN. 


DECEMBRE. 4.55 
SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS POUR 100 COUVERTS. 


MENU BUFFET. 





CHAUD. 
Consommé de volaille (190) Créme d’orge a la Viennoise (249) 
Huitres fricassées 4 la poulette (1067) Timbales 4 la Soubise (986) 
Coquilles de saumon (2346) Bouchées Turbigo (941) 
Terrapéne a la Maryland (1085) Canvasbacks (canards sauvages) (2055) 
Café (3701) Thé (8704) 
FROID. 
Chaudfroid de Courlis (2452) Terrine de liévre (2598) ) 
Langue de boeuf écarlate 4 la gelée (2609) Aspics de filets mignons de perdreaux (2416) 7 
Cotelettes de noix d’agneau mayonnaise (2474) _ Filets de poulet 4 la Gallier (2466) 
Salade de céleri mayonnaise (2660) Salade de homard a l’Américaine (2638) 
Sandwichs variées (815) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS ET DESSERT. 


Gelée au rhum (3186) Gaufres brisselets 4 la creme framboisée (8223) 
Gateau noisettes (3241) Charlotte Bengalienne (3142) 
Bombe panachée au café blanc et noir (8444) Soufflé glacé a la Favart (8534) ! 
Tutti frutti (3586) Biscuit glacé (3438) Toronchino Procope (3583) 
Fruits (3699) Petits fours (8364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) 
i Methenie  SOnE pare see eo 


Le froid est découpé et servi sur table avant de servir le Souper. 


Le Souper assis est servi sur des tables de 5 & 10 Couverts dans 1!’ordre suivant. 


Oonsommeé de volaille Créme d’orge a la Viennoise 
Timbales 4 1a Soubise Bouchées Turbigo 
Huitres fricassées 4 la poulette Coquilles de saumon 
Cotelettes de noix d’agneau mayonnaise Filets de poulet 4 la Gallier 
Terrapéne & la Maryland 
Chaudfroid de Courlis Terrine de liévre 
Langue de beuf écarlate a la gelée Aspies de filets mignons de perdreaux. 
Salade de homard 4 ]’Américaine Sandwichs variées 
Oanvasbacks (canards sauvages) Salade de céleri mayonnaise 
Gelée au rhum Gaufres brisselets 4 la creme framboisée 
Gateau noisettes Charlotte Bengalienne 
Bombe panachée au café blanc et noir Soufflé glacé a la Favart 
Tutti frutti Biscuit glacé Toronchino Procope , 


Fruits Petits fours Bonbons Devises. 





BILLS OF FARE. 151 


SUPPER. 
JANUARY. 456 JANUARY. A257. 
Oysters on the half shell (803) Oysters on the half shell (803) 
Crawfish mariniére (1009) Lobster on skewers, Colbert (2222) 
Breasts of woodcock a la Houston (2201) Game croquettes a la Dauphine (885) 
Deviled ribs of beef (1331) Green peas, English style (2742) 
Aspic of breast of quail (2419) Roast redhead ducks (2063) 
(Ice) Croquettes macédoine (3559) Celery mayonnaise salad (2660) 
7 Small fancy cakes (8364) Ice cream (3458) 
Dessert Dessert 





JANUARY. 458 | JANUARY. 459 


Oysters on the half shell (803) Oysters (803) 
Crusts with Chester cheese (946) 
Crawfish with butter (1011) 
Mutton kidneys on skewers, deviled (1620) Lamb sweetbreads, Sévigné (1762) 
Roast squabs (2018) 
(Ice) Nesselrode pudding with candied chest- 
(Ice) Soufflés Palmyra (85385) nuts (3495) 
Dessert 


Woodcock croquettes with truffles (892) 


Lobster tails in their shells (2533) 


Dessert 


FEBRUARY. 460 FEBRUARY. 461 
Oysters (803) Oysters in cases & la Lorenzo (2232) 
Consommé (189) Fresh mushroom patties (937) 
Maréchale mousseline (913) Striped bass 4 la Manhattan (2428) 
Escalops of fat livers 4 la Villeneuve (2279) Chicken soufflé & la Delsart (2360) 
Green peas, English style (2742) Roast plover (2119) 
Doe birds (2051) Salad 
(Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Charlotte Russe (3145) 
Dessert 





FEBRUARY. 462 FEBRUARY. 463 
Oysters in their natural shells with fried Oysters on crusts (1062) 
bread (2353) Turkey croquettes (894) 
Lobster, American style (1024) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, plain (1410) 
Chicken salad (2626) Sarah potatoes (2802) 
Roasted English snipe (2159) Aspic of foies-gras (2411) 
(Ice) Plombiére 4 la Havanaise (3484) Asparagus salad (2621) 


Dessert Montélimar with hazel-nut ice cream (3566) 





152 THE EPIOCURBAN. || 05 
SUPPER. 
MARCH. | ; AG4 MARCH. 
Cream of barley, Vienna style (249) 
Fried stuffed oysters (1070) 
Crépine of reedbirds (2247) 
Lobster mayonnaise, Printaniére (796) 


eeoe 









: Welsh rarebit (946) <n 

Lamb kidneys on skewers (1708) ‘a 4 
"Dauphine potatoes (2783) 

Roast squabs (2018) = 

Strawberry water ice (3607) ; 

Sponge cake (3260) : 
Dessert | 


Roast ptarmigan with gravy (2072) 
(Ice) Bomb with kirsch (8448) 


Dessert 















MARCH. 466 MARCH. 


Clear bouillon (187) 

Squab cutlets ala de Luynes (2266) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Broiled chicken (1831) 
Norwegian salad (2641) 

(Ice) Andalusian cream (8446) 


Dessert 


Consommé (189) Ao 
Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (877) _ 
Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) 
Lobster & la Newberg (1087) | 
Pheasant adorned with its own plumage (2107) = 
(Ice) Fiori di latte Ala Bellini (9467) 
Dessert “ete 


APRIL. A468 APRIL. 





- 


Oysters and lemons (803) 

Trout marinated in wine (829) 
Minions of tenderloin of beef 4 la Baillard 
(1400) 

English partridges (2102) 

Celery salad (2660) 

(Ice) Diplomate biscuit (3435) 

Dessert 


Toast with oil and cheese (992) "4 | 
Croquettes of frogs (884) 

Pullet crepine (2243) _ 

Oyster salad (2642) 

Roast squabs (2018) eS 

(Ice) Plombiére 4 la Rochambeau (3482) | a 
Dessert ae. 


APRIL. A'70 APRIL, | Fi avd ; 
Oysters (803) | Bouillon (187) 3 
Crawfish, Maison d’Or (1010) Toast & la Waddington (862) 
Sweetbread in cases 4 la Grammont (22385) Shells of oysters & la Villa (2340) 
Quartered artichokes (2688) Breasts of chicken A la Béranger (1834) 
Roast chicken with jelly and beef tongue Potato shavings (2807) 
(2469) ‘ English snipe (2159) 
Strawberry mousse ice cream (3474) Mignon salad (2620) 


Dessert (Ice) Turban with strawberries (8100) | 


BILLS OF FARE. 153 
SUPPER. 
MAY. 4:72 MAY, 473 


Clams (803) 
Yorkshire rarebit (946) 
Lobster 4 la Bonnefoy (1026) 
Dauphine potatoes (2783) 
Broiled chicken (18381) 
(Ice) Romanoff pudding (8497) 


Dessert 


MAY, A474. 


Clams (803) 
Toast with sardines (992) 
Venetian timbales (989) 
Lamb cutlets with mayonnaise (2474) 
Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2018) 
(Ice) Bomb with maraschino (8448) 


Dessert 


i hee 


JUNE. 476 
Clams (803) 
Brissotins of chicken supreme (849) 
Lobsters 4 la Newberg (1037) 
Border of forcemeat 4 la Duchess (2211) 
Roast squabs (2018) 
Ice cream parfait nougat (8478) 

Salad 

Dessert 


—_- —— 


JULY. | ATS 


Clams (808) 

Lobster mayonnaise Printaniére (795) 
Brissotins of chicken au supréme (849) 
Green peas, French style (2748) 
Roast squabs (2018) 

Salad 


(Ice) Bomb streaked with white and black 
coffee (3444) 


Dessert 


Consommé (189) 

Crusts of clams a la Schenk (903) 
Ham mousseline 4 la Belmont (911) 
Ptarmigans, currant jelly (2072) 
Romaine salad (2675) 

(Ice) Tutti frutti (3586) 


Dessert 


MAY. A75 


Consommé (189) 

Soft clams a la poulette (995) 
Lamb cutlets, Signora (1686) 
Chicken salad with vegetables (2627) 
Broiled duckling (19388) 

Salad 
(Ice) Parfait with coffee (3479) 
Dessert 


JUNE. 


Clams (803) 
Rissoles of lamb (952) 

Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) 
Duckling a la Rouennaise (1937) 
Broiled chicken (1831) 

Lettuce salad (2672) 

(Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) 

Dessert 


JULY. A79 
Clams (803) 


Timbales Calaisienne (962) 
Sweetbread cutlets Ala Talleyrand (2272) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 
Roast sand-snipe with water-cress (2161) 
(Ice) Vanilla mousse (3408) 


Dessert 


154 THE EPICUREAN. : a 


SUPPERS > Ae a 


AUGUST. 480 AUGUST. 48) 3m 


Clams (803) Clams (808) ber 
Croustades Parmentier (896) Quenelles of spring turkey (2336) 


Chicken quenelles with consommé (2329) — Green peas, English style (2742) 
Sautéd mushrooms (2760) 


Chaudfroid of lamb cutlets (2475) Cases. of thrush SHES ea cone 
Broiled reedbirds (2151) Broiled wild squabs (2112) 
Salad : Tomato salad (2666) 
Virgin ice cream phe acne water (Ice) Roman bomb (8442) 
3459) 
Dessert Dessert 






















SEPTEMBER. 483 
Oysters (803) 
Anchovy fritters (835) 
Partridge fillets, Giralda (2086) 


Roast duckling with green mayonnaise and 
. fine herbs (1938) 


Aspics of foies gras (2412) 


SEPTEMBER. 482 


Oysters (803) — 

Fish quenelles, Montglas (2380) 
Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) 
Artichoke bottoms 4 la Soubise (2681) 
Roast woodcock (2206) 

Celery salad (2660) 


Salad 

Ice) M with peaches (3474 <a 

ce) ues Pie ae (Ice) Fiori di latte & la Bellini (3467) 
Dessert 


OCTOBER. 484. 


Consommé (189) 
Scallops on toast, baked (1078) 
Chicken fillets 4 la Genin (1848) 
Green peas, English style (2742) 

Broiled plover (2118) 
Salad 
(Ice) Biscuit glacés (8438) 


OCTOBER. A85. 
Oysters (803) 
 Bressoles of fat liver (848) 
Minions of tenderloin of beef 41a Dumas (1402) — 
Salad of crawfish with jelly (2630) 
Roasted woodcock (2206) 
(Ice) Duchess pudding (3492) 
Small fancy cakes (38364) 
Dessert 





OCTOBER. 486 OCTOBER. 487 


Oysters (803) Consommé (189) 


Deviled stuffed lobster a la Carlu (10438) Ham mousseline Virginienne (911) 
Toasted bread with bacon (827) 


Small aspics of foies gras (2412) 
Chicken breasts, Empress style (1841) : : 


Broiled snipe (2157) Roasted ruddy duck (2066) 
Cucumber salad (2661) Lettuce salad (2672) 


(Ice) Marvelous (3568) (Ice) Mokabelle (3565) 
Dessert Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 155 


‘ SUPPER. 
NOVEMBER. 488 NOVEMBER. A893 
Oysters (803) Oysters (803) 
Partridge quenelles a la Stuart (2333) Small cases with fat livers (2229) 
Artichoke bottoms 4 la Mornay (2680) Lamb cutlets a la Turenne (1688) 
Terrapin a la Trenton (1090a) Shells of capon with jelly (2590) 
Roast grouse (2072) Broiled woodcock (2204) 
Cos-lettuce salad (2675) Salad 
(Ice) Mousse with macaroons (3477) Parfait with coffee (3479) 
Dessert Dessert 
NOVEMBER. 490 NOVEMBER. 491 


Oysters (803) 

Toast, Florentine (991) 
Cromesquis of crabs, Rumpford (869) 
Terrapin, Epicurean style (1090b) 
Small aspics of foies gras (2412) 
Roast plover (2119) 

Celery salad (2660) 

(Ice) Toronchino Procope (8583) 


DECEMBER. 492 
Oysters (803) 
Consommé (189) 
Capon croquettes a la Royale (876) 
Peas English style (2742) 
Terrapin a la Maryland (1085) 
Roast reedbirds with water-cress (2252) 
Ice cream with chestnuts (38465) 


Dessert 


Oysters (803) 
Consommé (189) 

Palmettes of snipe 4 la Osborn (932) 
St. Jacques shells, Parisian style (1079) 
Toasted bread with chicken (827) 
Roast quails (2131) 

Escarole salad (2671) 

(Ice) Basket of oranges (8570) 


DECEMBER. 4.93 
Consommé (189) 
Brochettes of oysters with truffles (1058) 
Sweetbreads a la Mirabeau (2595) 
Fat livers, Toulousaine (2287) 
Fried egg-plant (2739) 
Roasted grouse (2072) 
Salad 
(Ice) Biscuit with vanilla, melon shape (3438) 
Dessert 





DECEMBER. A94. 


Welsh rarebit 4 la Cutting (946) 
Lobster 4 la Bordelaise (1026) 
Noisettes of tenderloin of beef Berthier (1411) 
Terrapin ala Newberg (1086) 

Roast squabs (2018) 
Water-cress salad (2676) 

(Ice) Harlequin (3554) 

Dessert 


DECEMBER. 495 


Consommé (189) 
Oysters on toast (1062) 

Ham mousseline & la Costa (911) 
Terrapin A la Crisfield (1084) 
Roast woodcock (2206) 

Okra and sweet pepper salad (2651) 
(Ice) Potatoes (3575) 
Dessert 


os ‘ ae : _ mae vs a ae . 
156 a THE EPIOURBAN-:  —= 9 
JANVIER. 496 » FEVRIER. a at ar ee 497 
BUFFET POUR 300 PERSONNES. | BUFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. 
: : ae 
MENU. MENU. ~ a 
CHAUD.  OHAUD. a i | 
Consommé de gibier (192) Consommé (189) e Se | 


Huitres 4 la Villeroi (1056) 
Rissolettes a la Renan (957) 
Bouchées de ris de veau & la Frangaise (940) 
Terrapéne, Maryland Club (1088) 
Perdreaux piqués rotis au jus et cresson (2102) 
Crabes durs farcis a la diable (1004) 


FROID. 


Saumon a la Moderne (2582) 
Filet de boeuf & la Lucullus (2436) 
Voliére de faisan & la Waddington (2424) 
_ Jambon décoré a la Gatti (2521) 
Ballotines de pigeonneaux a la Madison (2427) 
Galantine de faisan a la Lorenzo (2494) 
Langues de boeuf, Rochefort (2606) 
Salmis froid de perdreaux (2574) 
Salade de homard a l’Américaine (2688) 
Mayonnaise de volaille (2625) 
Tétras rétis au jus (2072) 
Sandwichs (811) 
Tartines de pain blanc beurrées (820) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Paniers d’oranges A la gelée (3130) 
Bavarois aux marrons (3186) | 
Gateau aux amandes (3225) 
Gaufres brisselets & la creme framboisée (8228) 


GLACES, 


Bacchus (3590) 

Le Puits (3599) 
Toronchino Procope (8588) 
Tutti frutti (3586) 
Napolitaine (3569) 
Mokabelle (3565) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Corne d’Abondance (3635) 
Chariot garni de pommes d’api (3632) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (3653) 
Dessert 





Huitres frites au beurre (1061) 
Rissoles de palais de veau (952) 
Bouchées a la Victoria (942) 
_ Terrapdne a la Baltimore (1083) _ 
Crabes durs farcis 4 la Caroline (1008) 
Ruddy duck roti (2066) 
Café (8701) ,°- ae 


FROID. 


Galantine d’anguilles (2488) 
Canetons aux olives Espagnole (2482) 
Faisan farci 4 la Prince Orloff (2553) 

Chaudfroid de filets de canards & téte rouge © 
(2460) a eae 
Filets de poulet Mirebel (2464) 
ousseline de homard (2537) _ 

_ Aspic de foies gras (2411) 
Coquilles de chapon a la gelée (2590) 

Tartines de pain de seigle beurrées (820) — 
Petits pains garnis de rillettes de Tours (809) am 





ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. a 
Gateau Mille feuilles Pompadour (8247) 
Gateau Favart (8268) si 
Gelée au Madére (3186) 
Charlotte Russe (8145) 


GLACES. 


Ananas en surprise (8595) 
Turban a la vanille et aux fraises (3600) 
Madrilian (3562) eee: 2) ; 

Pommes de terre (3575) aa Me 
Pastéque (3589) ie a 

Biscuit glacé a la Diplomate (8485) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Vase en sucre filé (3637) 
Moulin a vent (8639) 
Fruits (3699) 
Bonbons (8642) 
Devises (8653) 
Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. tay 


MARS. | 498 


BUFFET POUR 250 PERSONNES. 
MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Bouillon clair (187) 
Brochettes @huitres aux truffes (1058) 
Rissoles de volaille (948) 
Terrapéne a la Maryland (1085) 
Homard a lAméricaine (1024) 
Timbales a la La Valliére (2357) 
Café (3701) 


FROID. 


Saumon a la Farragut (2581) 

Filet de boeuf aux légumes mayonnaise (2441) 
Buisson de crustacés a la Rochelaise (2572) 
Timbale de faisan aux truffes (2605) 
Galantine a la Berger (2499) 

Langue de beeuf Ecarlate en Arcade (2607) 
Chaudfroid de mauviettes (2454) 

Paté de longe d’agneau 4 la gelée (2561) 
Cuisses de poulet en forme de caneton ravi- 
gote (2529) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gateau Favart (8263) 
Biscuit aux amandes (8229) 
Gelée prunelle (3186) 
Bavarois aux meringues (3133) 


GLACES. 


Comtesse Léda (3548) 
Timbale Chateaubriand (3581) 
Panier de Perrette (3629) 
Gufs a la Trémontaine (8550) 
Mignonne (3564) 
Biscuit tutti frutti (3585) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Corbeille garnie de fruits (3628) 
Panier garni d’oranges (8570) 
Fruits (8699) 

Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (8653) 

Dessert 





AVRIL. 499 
BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé (189) — 
Huitres a la poulette (1067) 
Palmettes & la Varsovienne (924) 
Rissoles de palais de boeuf (952) 
Bouchées Turbigo (941) 
Terrapene a la Crisfield (1084) 
Café (8701) 


FROID. 


Saumon a la Russe (2586) 

Filet de boeuf a la Noailles (2437) 
Galantine de pigeon (2496) 
Jambon truffé & Ja Florian (2528) 
Dinde en daube a la Verneuil (2615) 
Cotelettes d’agneau a l’aspic (2473) 
Petites caisses de grives a la gelée (2449) 
Aspic de faisan (2417) 

Salade de homard a l’Américaine (2638) 
Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) 
Sandwichs de viandes variées (815) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gateau Génoise (8239) 
Gelée a la Russe (3182) 
Gaufres brisselets 4la créme framboisée (8223) 
Gateau Jamaique (3242) 


GLACES. 


Bacchus (3590) 
Le Puits (3599) 
Bombe A la Romaine (3442) 

Fiori di latte fleurs de violettes (8470) 
Plombiére Montesquieu aux pralines et aux 
pistaches (8480) 

Parfait au café (3479) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Le Char des Cygnes (3634) 
Bateau bon voyage (8631) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (86438) 
Devises (8653) 
Dessert. 


158 THE EPICUREAN. | “ 


501 


MAL 500 . JUIN. 
BUFFET POUR 400 PERSONNES. BUFFET POUR 60 PERSONNES. 
7 
MENU. MENU. 
athlon CHAUD. 


Bouillon clair (187) 
Lucines orangées 4 la Philadelphie (994) 
Moules aux fines herbes gratinées (1050) 
Croquettes de canetons a la Muser (881) 
Bouchées aux crevettes (9385) 
Crabes durs farcis aux champignons (1004) 
Café (8701) 


FROID. 


Saumon 4 la Seymour (2584) 
Grenadins filet de boeuf, Rochambeau (2489) 
Paon roti et paré de son plumage (2552) 
Paté de filets d’oie Adolphe Hardy (2557) 
Cételettes d’agneau a l’Impériale (2471) 
Terrine de noix de Jambon (2597) 
Poulet Ecarlate & la Derenne (2463) 
Aspie de veau aux artichauts macédoine (2421) 
Sandwichs (811) 

Rillettes de Tours (809) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gateau a la gelée meringué (3248) 
Gelée aux fraises (3183) 
Baquets de gaufres a la créme (8128) 
Biscuit a ?PHernani (8228) 


GLACES. 


Melon Cantaloup en surprise (8591) 
Nid garni d’ceufs (8594) 
Pouding a la Constance (3490) 
Mousse a l’ananas (8474) 
Biscuit glacé a la d’Orléans (3487) 
Alexandria (3539) 

Petites glaces fantaisie (8481) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Le chariot des Colombes (3638) 
Le panier de Perrette (3629) 


Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 


Devises (3653) 
Café (3701) 


Bouillon (187) 
Lucines orangées a la poulette (995) 
Palmettes a la Périer (922) 
_ Rissoles de poisson (952) 
Petits patés feuilletés de saumon (945) 
Homard roti a la diable (1030) 


FROID. 


Truites de ruisseau 4 la Caréme (2611) 
Filet de boeuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) 
Cotelettes d’agneau au chaudfroid tomaté 

(2475) 

Ris de veau a la Mirabeau (2595) 
Célestine de poularde, Talleyrand (2450) 
Fricassée de poulet chaudfroid (2467) 
‘‘Pain” de foies au salpicon (2547) 
Galantine de caneton en forme de poire (2487) 
Sandwichs assorties (811) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gateau Moka (8249) 
Gelée ala Violette (3185) 
Corbeille en Nougat a la Créme (3129) 
Pouding Renaissance (3210) 


GLACES. 


Poule avec poussins (3594) 
Lapin en Surprise (8596) 
| Arlequin (38554) 
Mousse aux fraises (8474) 
Soufflé glacé a P Alcazar (3533) 
Asperges (8540) 
Petites glaces fantaisie (3431) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Vase en sucre filé garni de fleurs (3637) 
Moulin a vent (3639) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (3653) 
Dessert 





BILLS OF FARE. 159 


JUILLET. 502 


BUFFET POUR 80 PERSONNES. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Bouillon clair (187) 

Moules a la Mariniére (1046) 
Lucines orangées farcies (997) 
Brissotins de volaille au supréme (849) 
Bouchées a l’Andalouse (934) 


Crabes moux grillés beurre ravigote (1006) 


FROID. 


Truites ala gelée sauce Tartare (2612) 


Filet de boeuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) 
Ballotine d’agneau en forme de coupole (2425) 


Cételettes de veau a l’Anacréon (2478) 
Paté de foies gras de Strasbourg (2564) 
Poularde piquée a la gelée (2571) 


_ Galantine d’oison en forme de melon (2489) 


Jambon glacé au sucre (2522) 
Sandwichs (811) 


Petits pains garnis de rillettes de Tours (809) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Biscuits 4 la creme (3137) 
Bavarois aux framboises (3134) 
Gateau Napolitain (8250) 
Gateau Reine (3256) 


GLACES. 


Ananas en Surprise (3595) 
Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) 
Soufflé glacé Palmyre (8535) 
Champignons (3568) 
Mousse aux péches (3474) 
Pouding a la Romanoff (3497) 
Petites glaces fantaisie (8431) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


2 Vases en sucre filé garnis de fleurs (3637) 


Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (8653) 

Dessert 


AOGT. 503 


BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES.. 
MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé (189) 

Moules a la poulette (1047) 
Lucines papillons frites (998) 
Croquettes de dinde (894) 
Bouchées a la Reine (988) 
Crabes moux sautés au beurre (1006) 
Café (3701) Thé (8704) 


FROID. 


Darne de saumon historiée (2576) 
Buisson d’écrevisses (2572) 
Petits aspics aux crevettes (2422) 
Galantine de pintade a la Lytton (2490) 
Paté de caneton a la Rouennaise (2555) 
Poulet sauté a la Sherman (2468) 
Sandwichs de viandes (811) 
Canapés d’anchois (777) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (3187) 
Chateau framboisé (3141) 
Pound cake (8254) 
Pouding Harrison (3207) 


GLACKS. 


Cantaloup moulé (3591) 
Nid garni d’ceufs (3594) 
Pouding a la Serano (3498) 
Mousse A l'Italienne (3475) 
Spongade Médicis (8536) 
Petites glaces fantaisie (3481) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Le char des Cygnes (8634) 
Bateau bon voyage (36381) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (3653) 
Dessert 


160 THE EPICURBAN. ae 


SEPTEMBRE. , 504 


BUFFET POUR 3800 PERSONNES. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé de volaille (190) 
Bouchées a la Victoria (942) 
- Croquettes de ris de veau (893) 
Homard a la Newberg (1037) 
Crabes moux frits (1006) 
Café (3701) 
Thé (8704) 


FROID. 


Turbot a la Rémoulade (2613) 
Chaudfroid de tétras (2457) 
Galantine de cochon de lait (2498) 

Pain de perdreau & la Montgomery (2548) 
Petites caisses de bécassines A la gelée (2448) 
Créme de homard (2470) 

Paté froid de cailles (2565) 
Perdreaux piqués rotis (2550) 

Salade de chapon (2624) 
Sandwichs (811) Rillettes de Tours (809) 

Canapés de caviar (777) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gelée au marsala (3186) 
Purée de pommes mousseuse (8127) 
Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (8187) 

Riz Mirabeau (8213) 


GLACES. 


Corbeille jardiniére aux Colombes (8598) 
Cygne aux roseaux (3597) 

Crame spongade A la Parépa (8537) 
“Mousse aux liqueurs (3476) 
Bombe aux fruits printaniére (3441) 
Granges Posilipo (3571) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Arbre prodigieux (3639a) 
Moulin a vent (3689) 
Fruits (3699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (3658) 
Dessert 





OCTOBRE. a: ee e. 


CHAUD. 


Bouillon (187) ae 
Huitres 4 la Philadelphie (1068) 
Croquettes de crabes 4 la Parmentier coe | 
Selle de chevreuil rétie (2194) zsh 
Bouchées de ris de veau a la Frangaise 
| - Café (3701) - . 
Thé (3704) 










_ FROID. 


‘Sranehes de sheepshead a la. ae (2389) 
Filet de mouton a la Henry Clay (2541) | 
Jambon de poulet garni de zampino (2525) 
Chaudfroid de perdreau Béatrice (2455) 
Hure de pore (2570) | 
Aspic de homard (2414) 
Cdtelettes de faisan chaudfroid (477) 
_ Paté froid de bécasses (2569) — 
 Terrine de mauviettes (2599) >. 
Sandwichs (811) ; | e 

~~ Pains de rillettes de Tours (809) - 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Biscuits de Savoie (8281) 
Gelée au champagne (3186) _ 
Creme bain-marie (8160) 
Gateau mandarin (8245) : 3 


GLACES. 


~ Ananas en surprise “aoaay’ 
Délicieux aux noisettes ain 
Pouding aux biscuits (3488) 
_ Mousse Sémiramis (3471) 
‘Soufflé glacé a PAleazar- (3538) 
Asperges sauce marasquin (3540) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


2 Vases en sucre filé (3637) 
Fruits (3699) 
Bonbons (8642) 
Devises (8653) 
Dessert 


BILLS OF FARE. 161 


NOVEMBRE. 
BUFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé (189) 

Huitres 4 la Hollandaise (1066) 
Rissoles de ris de veau (954) 
Bécassines roties (2159) 
Croquettes de brochet 4 la Romaine (890) 
Café (3701) 

Thé (8704) 


FROID. 


Saumon Vénitienne (2587) 

Filet de boeuf a la Evers (2435) 
Galantine de perdreau, Elisabeth (2493) 
Paté de liévre dans un plat (2559) 
Cotelettes de homard & la Lowery (2476) 
Aspic de filets de caille (2419) 
Fiiets de poulet Renaissance (2465) 
Chaudfroid de courlis au fumet (2452) 


Estomacs de dinde a la Gustave Doré (2617) © 


Sandwichs (811) 


-ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. 


Gelée au sherry (3186) 
Pouding Castillane (8206) 
Bordure Caroline au champagne (3140) 
Gateau de noisettes (3241) 
Créme dé riz a Vangélique (3151) 
Marrons a la creme (8147) 


GLACES. 


Corbeille jardiniére aux colombes (85938) 
Le cygne aux roseaux (3597) 
Pouding de ris 4 l’Impérial (8494) 
La Grandina (8556) 

Fiori di latte 4 la fleur d’orange (3469) 
Sabayon a la Cannetti (8531) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Brouette de fleurs (3638) 
Chariot de pommes (3632) 
2 Corbeilles de fruits (8699) 
Glaces (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Devises (8653) 
Dessert 


506 ,, DECEMBRE. 5OT 


BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES. 
MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Bouillon (187) 

Huitres frites au beurre (1061) 
Timbales 4 la Dumas (965) 
Bouchées & la Reine (938) 

Terrapeéne Epicurienne (1090) 

-Poules de neige réties (2072) 

Café (8701) 


FROID. 


Saumon 4 la Avelane (2579) 

Filet de boeuf a la Violetta (24388) 
Galantine de perdreau Clémentine (2491) 
Petites caisses de foies gras (2229) 
Chaudfroid de cailles Baudy (2459) 
Cotelettes de bécasses Sarah Bernhardt (2480) 
Terrine de liévre (2598) 

Aspic de crétes et rognons de coq a la Mazarin 
(2410) 

Sandwichs assorties (811) 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT, 


Gateau Roederer (8257) 

Gelée aux péches (8187) 

Timbales Massillon (3221) 
Pouding a la Boissy (8205) 


GLACES. 


Ananas en surprise (8595) 
Délicieux aux noisettes (8592) 
Manchon Déjazet 4 la creme Vénus (8567) 
Biscuits glacés (3488) 

Glaces assorties (38538) 
Punch granit au café (3505) 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Bateau ‘‘ Bon Voyage” (3631) 
Panier de Cerises (3630) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (8642) 
Devises (3653) 
Dessert 


162 THE EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBER. 508 


SIDEBOARD FOR 150 PERSONS. 
BILL OF FARE. 


HOT. 


Consommé (189) 

Oysters & la poulette (1067) 
Sweetbread cutlets a la Talleyrand (2272) 
Roast woodcock (2206) 

Pullet croquettes 4 la Wright Sanford (882) 
Tenderloin of beef, royale (1458) 


COLD. 


Salmon with Montpellier butter (2588) 
English ham with jelly (2524) 
Galantine of partridge, sliced (2492) 
Decorated wild boar’s head (2618) 
Dressed game pie a la Lesage (2556) 
Chaudfroid of young Guinea fowl (2453) 
Terrine of plover and larks (2601) 
Small ‘‘ pain” of chicken a la Freycinet (2544) 
Mousseline of woodcock (2540) | 
Sandwiches (811) 
Small ‘‘ pains” of Rillettes de Tours (809) 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Mousseline biscuit (8230) 
Greengage jelly 3187) 
Chestnuts with cream (3147) 
Gugelhopfen cake (8240) 


ICES. 


Hen and chicks (38594) 
Rabbit in surprise (3596) 
Excelsior Biscuit (3436) 
Printaniére fruit Bomb (3441) 
Waddington pudding (3500) 
Chartreuse mousse (3476) 


CENTER PIECES. 


Gu2r'd. Med with lady apples (3632) 
Horn of plenty (3635) 
Fruits (3699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Mottoes (3653) 
Dessert 


Lady cake (3244) 


OCTOBER. 509 


SIDEBOARD FOR 350 PERSONS. 
BILL OF FARE. 


HOT. 


Cream of peas, St. Germain (260) 
Béchamel oysters with truffles (1065) 
Rissoles a la Demidoff (950) 
Roast plover (2119) 

Patties with mushrooms (937) 
Frog croquettes (884) 


~ COLD. 


Salmon a la Régence (2588) 


Tenderloin of beef on a socle Bouquetiére 


(2434) 


Voliére galantine of pheasants, Casimir Périer 


(2423) 

Galantine of chicken a la d’Orléans (2486) 
Woodcock a la Valeére (2619) 
Terrine of duck’s liver a Aquitaine (2596) 
Aspic of minion fillets of partridge (2416) 
Fillets of sole a la Mazagran (2598) 

Assorted sandwiches (815) - 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Plum cake (8258) 
Peach jelly (3187) 
Cream cornets with orange (3148) 
Camper crowns (3156) 


ICES. 


Bacchus (3590) 

The Well (3599) 
Banana pudding (3487). 
Bomb with maraschino (8448) 
Mousse with macaroons (8477) 
Apples in surprise (3574) 
Waffles with vanilla (3285) 


CENTER PIECES. 


Basket filled with candied fruits (8628) 
Perrette’s basket (3629) 
Fruits (8699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Mottoes (3653) 
Dessert 


Fruit cake (32388) 








BILLS OF FARE. 163 


NOVEMBER. 
SIDEBOARD FOR 200 PERSONS. 


BILL OF FARE: 


HOT. 


Cream of rice, Crémieux (249) 
Oysters Viennaise (1068) 
Palmettes of turkey a la Béarnaise (933) 
Turbigo patties (941) 
Terrapin a la Trenton (1090) 
Roast partridges with gravy and water cress 
(2102) 
Coffee (3701) 


COLD. 


Decorated slices of salmon (2577) 
Saddle of venison a la Harder (2578) 
Aspic of oysters (2415) 
Chaudfroid of woodcock with fumet (2452) 
Red beef tongue with jelly (2609) 
Ballotines of quail a la Tivolier (2426) 
Terrine of wild rabbit (2604) 

Snipe pie (2567) 

Sandwiches (811) 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Breton cake (8232) 
Noyau jelly (3186) 
Apple Flamri (3166) 
Large brioche (3234) 


ICES. 


Hen with chicks (8594) 
Rabbit in surprise (3596) 
Plum pudding (3496) 

- Grandina (8556) 
Parisian (3573) 
Gramolates with oranges (3610) 


CENTER PIECES. 


Basket of cherries (3630) 
Wheelbarrow filled with flowers (3638) 
Fruits (8699) 

Bonbons (3642) 
Mottoes (3653) 
Dessert. 


Pound cake (3254) 


510 4 DECEMBER. 511 


SIDEBOARD FOR 400 PERSONS. 
BILL OF FARE. 


HOT. 


Chicken consommé (190) 

Oyster rissolettes 4 la Pompadour (1054) 
Lamb croquettes a la De Rivas (888) 
Roast quails (2131) 

Crab patties (935) 

Timbale ala Renaissance (981) 
Coffee (3701) 


COLD. 


Slices of salmon with jelly (2578) 
Ribs of beef in Bellevue (2482) 
Galantine of partridge (2492) 
‘¢ Pain” of partridge a la Montgomery (2548) 
Chaudfroid of snipe in pyramid (2461) 
Woodcock cutlets, Poniatowski (2479) 
Mousseline of pheasant, Princess (2538) 
Paté de foies gras in border (2488) 
Chicken legs in the shape of ducklings (2529) 
Sandwiches (811) 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Compiéegne cake (8236) 
Prunelle jelly (8186) 
Apricot rice (8214) 
‘¢Pain” of chestnut a la Béotie (3196) 


ICES. 


Algerian timbale (3580) 
Cauliflower with marchioness rice (8544) 
Léona (3558) 

St. Jacques Cup (3560) 

Corn (3547) 

Pears in surprise (8574) 


CENTER PIECES. 


Chariot filled with lady apples (8632) 
Horn of plenty (3635) 
Fruits (3699) 
Bonbons (3642) 
Mottoes (8653) 
Dessert 


Pound cake (3254) 


164 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANUARY. 512 


-SIDEBOARD FOR 300 PERSONS. 


BILL OF FARE. 


HOT. 


Clear bouillon (187) 
‘Fried oysters a la Horly (1060) 
Oyster patties (939) 
Scallops ala Mariniere (1076) 
Turkey croquettes (894) 
Roast canvasback (2055) 
Stuffed lobster tails (1048) 


COLD. 


Salmon @ la Courbet (2585) 
Tenderloin of beef ala Noailles (2487) 

‘* Pain” of game Diana (2546) 
Bastion, American style (2429) 
Chaudfroid of chicken a la Clara Morris (2451) 
Cold salmis of quails a la Balzac (2575) 
Terrine of partridge de Nérac (2600) 
Galantine of pheasant (2495) 

Rolls filled with rillettes (809) 
Buttered slices of rye bread (820) 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Macédoine champagne jelly (3179) 
‘*Pain” of apricots (8194) 
Pineapple cake (8252) 
Ministerial pudding (8209) 


ICES. 


The helmet (8598) 
Delicious with hazelnuts (8592) 
Montélimar with hazelnuts (3566) 
Ribambelle (3576) 
Madeleine (3561) 
Rice with maraschino (3578) 


CENTER PIECES. 


Basket filled with candied fruit (3628) 
Basket filled with tortillons (3628) 
Fruits (3699) 

Bonbons (3642) 

Mottoes (3653) 

Dessert 





Wedding cake (3238) 








FEBRUARY. 513 
SIDEBOARD FOR 200 PERSONS. 


BILL OF FARE. 


HOT. 


Chicken consommé (190) 
Broiled oysters, maitre-d’hétel (1059) 
Scallops a la Havraise (1075) 
Palmettes a la Périer (922) 
Roast redhead ducks (2068) 
Coffee (8701) 


COLD. 


Salmon a la d’Estaing (2580) 
Tenderloin of beef 4 la Violetta (2488) 
‘*Pain” of game a la Bartholdi (2545) 
Aspic of tongue a la Picquart (2420) 

-Chaudfroid of fillets of pheasant (2456) 


- Cutlets of kernel of lamb in Bellevue (2472) 


Galantine of pullet Ala Mozart (2497) 
- Boar's head (2570) 
Chicken mayonnaise (2625) 
Sandwiches (811) 
Small fancy rolls filled with rillettes de Tours. 
(809) 


SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. 


Syruped baba (8227) 

Sponge cake (8260) 
Californian pineapple jelly (3178) 
Blanc mange a la Smolenska (8138) 


‘ 


ICES. 


Cantaloup in surprise (8591) 
Nest with eggs (8594) 
Stuffed tomatoes (8582) 

Sicilian (8579) 
Ristori rice (8577) 
Marvelous (8563) 
Granite with currants (8611). 


CENTER PIECES. 


Cornucopia garnished with fruit (8635) 
Wheelbarrow filled with flowers (3638) 
Fruits (3699) ; 
Bonbons (8642) 
Mottoes (3653) 
Dessert 





Angel cake (8226) 








BILLS OF FARE. 165 


RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. 


BREAKFAST. 
JUNE. 


Coffee (3701) Chocolate (3700) Arabian racahout (8703) 
English breakfast tea (8704) 


SIDE DISHES. 
Clams (803) Gherkins (785) Sandwiches (811) Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) 
Anchovies (772) Sardines (817) Lyons sausage (818) Stuffed olives (801) Marinated tunny fish (831) 
Mackerel in oil (797) Mortadella (818) Arles sausage (818) 


EGGS. 


Boiled (2856) Fried a la Eugene André (2866) Scrambled a la Columbus (2934) 
On a dish (2909) Fried turned over & la sole (2869) Hard boiled, Russian style (2865) 


OMELETS: Argentine (2878) With clams (2885) With bacon (2879) 
Cocottes (2873) Soft eggs with purée of sorrel (2951) Poached eggs with gravy (2931) 


FISH. 
Red bass water fish (1098) Pike perch 4 la Durance (1213) Whitebait (1310) 
Black bass 4 la Narragansett (1095) Mussels a@ la poulette (1047) 
Kingfish 4 la bateliére (1179) Porgy with Chablis wine (1231) Bluefish a la Barnave (1117) 


HOT. 

Pig’s feet 4 la St. Ménéhould (1783) Veal cutlets (1501) Mutton cutlets (1590) Beefsteak (1368) 
Pork chops (1778) Spring lamb cutlets (1669) Roast squabs (2018) 
Beef palate a la Béchamel (1326) Chateaubriand (1380) 
Escalops of veal 4 la Habirshaw (2282) 

Mutton breast broiled (1585) Stuffed breast of lamb, Velouté tomato sauce (1665) 
Frogs’ legs 4 la poulette with mushrooms (1019) Chicken sautéd, half glaze (1906) 
Squabs a la Carolina (2021) Delmonico sirloin steak, Spanish style (1377) 
Porterhouse steak (1362) 


COLD. 


Corned beef, pressed (24380) English ham with jelly (2524) 
Red beef tongue with jelly (2609) Ribs of beef Bellevue (2482) 
Boned turkey (2499) Calf tongue ala Macédoine (2610) 
Lamb pie (2561) Beef a la mode (2483) 
Aspie de foies gras (2411) Roast chicken with jelly and beef tongue (2469) 


SALADS. 
Tomato (2666) Water-cress (2676) Celery (2660) Macédoine (2650) 
Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Russian (2645) 
VEGETABLES. 

Porators: Fried (2787) Mashed in snow (2798) Broiled sweet potatoes (2832) Saratoga (2803) 
Beets with butter and fine herbs (2702) ‘Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (2692) 
Succotash (2781) 

BREAKFAST CAKES. 
Brioches (3269) | Wheaten grits (3280) Hominy (3280) Oat meal (3280) Muffins (8414) 


Corn bread (3422) Indian cake (3274) - Flannel cake (3278) Waffles (3284) 
DESSERT. 
Darioles with orange-flower water (3300) 
FresH Fruits: (3699) Apples Oranges Bananas Pears 
Watermelon Peaches 
CHEESE: (2697) American Brie Stilton Roquefort Chester 


Glass of cream or milk. 


106 THE EPICUREAN. 


RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. 


LUNCH. 


eUiY 
Clams (803) 
SOUPS. 
Consommé in cup (189) Pea purée with crofitons (282) Julienne faubonne (318) 


Fish broth with clams (370) Clam chowder (800) Chicken okra (299) © 
Mock turtle thickened (355) Cream of corn ala Hermann (255) 


FISH. 
Fresh mackerel maitre-d’hétel (1198) Fried soft shell crabs (1006) 
Striped bass a la Bercy (1101) Baked codfish Duxelle (1136) 
- Kingfish ala Bateliére (1179) Fillets of spotted fish English style (1283) 
Porgies 4 la Manhattan (1229) Eels a la Maréchale (1149) 


READY. 
Leg of mutton a la Bordelaise (1622) Sirloin of beef a la Dauphiness (1350) 
Sausages with cream potatoes (1804) Loin of veal with gravy (1537) 
Bacon with spinach (1771) Chicken fricassée & la Bouchard (1862) 
Poached eggs with purée of chicken supréme (2932) 


TO ORDER. 
Veal cutlet maitre-d’hoétel (1501) Small steak plain (1368) 
Mutton cutlets with purée of chestnut (1599) Chicken croquettes exquisite (877) 
Lamb cutlets (1669) Minions of fillet of veal with mushrooms (1510) 
Squabs a la Briand (2006) Chicken cocotte (1832) 
Noisettes fillet of beef ala Berthier (1411) Frog’s legs a la d’Antin (1017) 
Mutton breast with tomato Andalouse sauce (1586) Squabs sautéd 4 l’ Impromptu (2010) 


COLD. 

Pickles (785) Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) Celery (779) 
English ham with jelly (2524) | Anchovies (772) Sardines in oil (772) Lyons sausage (818) 
Mortadella (818) Sandwiches (811) Mackerel in oil (797) 
Stuffed olives with anchovy butter (801) Marinated tunny (831) Spring lamb (2561) 

Red beef tongue (2609) Lobster with mayonnaise (26388) Boned turkey (2499) 

Goose liver pie (2562) 


SALADS. 


Russian (2645) Tomato (2666) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Potato (2654) | Macédoine (2650) 
Water-cress (2676) 


VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES: Fried (2787) Saratoga (2808) Hashed, with cream (2780) Lyonnese (2794) 
String beans a l’Albani (2825) Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (2692) 
Lima beans maitre-d’hotel (2699) Green peas, French style (27438) 

Green corn on the cob (2730) Stuffed truffles (2845) 
Tomatoes broiled with mayonnaise sauce (2838) 
DESSERT. 

ICE OREAM: Toronchino, Procope (3583) Pistachio (8454) Asparagus (8540) 

Nesselrode pudding with chestnuts (3495) Vanilla (8458) Chocolate (3449) 
Tutti frutti (8586) Tortoni cups (3584) Neapolitan (8569) 
Banana cream (3451) White coffee (8460) 

WATER IcE: Raspberry (8607) Orange (3605) Lemon (3604): 
PuncH: Roman (3515) Kirsch (3510) Lalla Rookh (3516) Maraschino (3510): 
Bucket made of Chantilly waffles (3128) Charlotte russe (8145) 

FRUITS: (3699) Watermelon Muskmelon Peaches Bananas Apples Grapes. 
CHEESE: (3697) American Roquefort Edam Camembert Pont VEvéque: 


French coffee (8701) Turkish coffee (3702) 





BILLS OF FARE. 167 


RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. 


DINNER. 


MAY. 
Clams (803) 
SOUPS. 
Consommé Caréme (222) Rice a la Rudini (343) Sherman (344) 
Bisque of crawfish 4 la Bateliére (202) Cream of sorrel with stuffed eggs (262) 
Julienne Mogul (318) Pea purée with crofitons (282) Crofite au pot (305) 
Chicken okra (299) Chicken okra strained (299) Small individual soup pots (346) 


SIDE DISHES—COLD. 
Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) Sardines in oil (772) Lyons sausages (818) 
Marinated tunny (831) Gherkins (785) Mortadella (818) 
Stuffed olives with anchovy butter (801) Mackerel in oil (797) 


SIDE DISH—HOT. 
Cromesquis of sweetbread, Babanine (872) 


FISH. 
Mussels with shallot (1051) Eels broiled tartar sauce (1150) Planked shad ravigote butter (1255) 
Spotted fish Livournaise (1282) Weakfish a la Brighton (1808) Fried soft shell crabs (1006) 
Blackfish & la Sandford (1115) Lobster a la Camille (1028) Sheepshead, Buena Vista (1259) 


REMOVES. 
Roast sirloin of beef with brain patties (1355) 

Rump of beef Boucicault (1337) Pullet in surprise (1987) 

ENTREES. 
Mutton pie Canadian style (2375) Sautéd chicken florentine style (1890) 
Mushrooms crust with truffles (2759) Minions of tenderloin of beef 4 la Stanley (1406) 
Hot plover pie (2317) Breasts of turkey Donovan (2037) Squabs a la Crispi (2008) 

Frog shells (2347) Sweetbread a la St. Cloud (1566) 

SorBeETs: Lalla Rookh (3516) Kirsch (3510) Maraschino (3510) Rum (3510) 


ROAST. 
Leg of mutton a la Roederer (1627) Leg of yearling lamb with gravy (1715) 
Beef ribs, American style (1331) Squabs (2018) 
Duckling (1921) Partridge broiled, English style (2085) Chicken in the saucepan (1881) 


COLD. 


Galantine of chicken (2485a) Trout, tartar sauce (2612) Terrine of duck livers 4 l’Aquitaine (2596) 

SALADS: Lettuce (2672) Water-cress (2676) Macédoine (2650) Chicory (2668) 

VEGETABLES. : 

Purslain @ la Brabancon (2815) Lima beans thickened maitre-d’hdtel (2699) 
Potatoes Parisienne (2786) Potatoes, Anna (2770) Potatoes half glaze (2784) 

Green peas, English style (2742) String beans with butter (2829) 
Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (2692) 

Succotash (2731) Cépes baked with cream (2724) Stuffed cauliflower a la béchamel, baked (2715) 

Risot A la Francatelli (2979) Tomatoes 4 la Boquillon (2833) Cardoons with half glaze (2710) 


Fried eggplant (2739) Spaghetti macaroni a la Lawrence (2966) 
Asparagus tops 4 la Maintenon (2695) Corn on the cob (2730) Spinach with cream (2820) 
Macaroni a la Brignoli (2958) Whole artichoke boiled with white sauce (2691) 
Macédoine a la Montigny (2755) Sweet potatoes roasted (2832) 

SWEET ENTREMETS. | 
Hot: Pancakes with brown sugar (3077) Glazed apple marmalade (3126) 
CoLp: Blane mange with strawberries (3139) Bain marie cream molded (3149) 
Charlotte Russe (3145) Cream Malakoff (3150) 
DESSERT. 
Fancy OReEAMs: Biscuit, Excelsior (3436) Basket filled with oranges (8570) 
Nesselrode pudding with candied chestnuts (3495) Biscuit glacé (8435) 
Neapolitan (3569) Plombiére with chestnuts (3486) 
CREAMS: Vanilla (3458) White coffee (3460) Pistachio (3454) 
WaTER Ice: Lemon (3604) Raspberry (8607) Pineapple (8606) 


Assorted cakes (3364) 
Preserved fruits (3679) greengages, peaches, pineapple, quinces (3679) 
Marmalade (3674) jelly, Dundee, peaches, ginger, Guava, Bar-le-duc (8678) 
Stewed fruits (8686) pineapple, peaches, pears, prunes, apples, with jelly, bananas, 
cherries, chestnuts, oranges, orange salad, strawberries, raspberries. 
Brandy fruits (8660) greengages, pears, oranges, strawberries with cream. 
CHEESE (3697) Stilton, Brie, Strachino, Gorgonzola, Gruyere, Chester, Gervais, Port Salut, Holland 
French coffee (8701) Turkish coffee (3702) 














nn ee ar er 
: , mi aly. 2 eee o cia nie ie arte 
168 | THE HPIOURLAN, | | 
RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. 
AUGUST. 
\ Clams (803) ; 
; HOT. oe 
Welsh rarebit (946) Consommé in cups (189) Golden buck 
Stuffed lobster tails, deviled (1048) Bamequins (2975) 
Deviled mutton kidneys on skewers (1620) Stuffed hard shell crabs Carolina style ( 
Sweetbread croquettes (893) i 
Chicken legs in papers (1876) 7 Croustades a la Castillane (895) 
Bondons of woodcock a la Diane (845) Chicken breast 4 la Chevreuse (1827) 
Squab a la Briand (2006) Minions of tenderloin of beef a la Baillard ( a 
‘COLD. 


_ Sandwiches (811) Caviare (778)  Radishes (808) Mortadella (818) mmo 
Marinated sardines (831) Celery (779) Tunny (831) Lyons sausage Cs 
Boned turkey (2499) Caviare canapés (777) Goose liver pie (2562) : 


SALADS. 


Lettuce (2672) Cucumber (2661) Water-cress (2676) Celery ( 
Macédoine (2650) Cos lettuce (2675) Lobster American eg (2638) 
Chicken mayonnaise (2625) 
Russian (2645) Tomato (2666) 


DESSERT. 
Ice Cream ean 
SHERBET: Kirsch (8510) Lalla Rookh (8516) Prunelle (8510) Maraschino Bi 
WATER IcE: Raspberry (3607) Pine apple (3606) Lemon (8604) Orange 36 


Fancy: Pudding Cavour (3489) Banana in surprise (8541) | Plombiére 4 la Rochambeau ( 
Vanilla (3458) Chocolate (3449) Coffee (8460) _ Pistachio (8454) 
Biscuit glacé (3485) Neapolitan Cages 
Charlotte russe (8145) Madeira jelly (3186) Apricot flawn (317 


FRESH Fruits (8699): Bananas, pineapples, apples, oranges, Niagara grapes, huckle 
currants, muskmelon, watermelon 


CHEESE (3697): Stilton, Gruyére, Cream, Strachino peers “e ae 
French coffee (3701) - Turkish coffee (8702) 


; : mh es ’ 2 
J “wt 
. f 5. att a) ‘ 
} at / = ad ’ 


All the Epicurean recipes are included in the menus. The heading of each recipe being 
English and in French permits any person not thoroughly versed in both these languages to 
pose his bill of fare in either the one or the other. He has simply to make his selection of 
necessary recipe and by referring to the number of the article, write his bill of fare in Englis| 
in French as he so chooses. In wording a dinner bill of fare be very careful to denote the fish 
shell fisb, the butcher’s meat, the poultry and game in season, alternating white or brown 
each course, also the white or brown sauces. I have as far as practicable replaced the term fille 
by breasts for poultry or game and aiguillettes for fish, so that the word fillet need no 
be too frequently repeated in the same bill of fare. Oysters can be omitted from the bills of fare 
also cold side dishes, salads and coffee, besides the details of the dessert following the entreme 
need only be mentioned by the single word of dessert. J 


» ease 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 


(1), BURNT ALMONDS AND FILBERTS (Amandes et Avelines Pralinées), 


Split some shelled almonds or filberts in two; if almonds are used mince well and roast lightly 
in the oven, on a baking sheet without letting them color, then mix in with them half their weight 
of sugar and enough egg-white, so they be entirely covered by the sugar. When the burnt 
almonds are spread on cakes, they must be covered over with sugar and glazed in a brisk oven. 


(2), CONDE ALMOND OR FILBERT PREPARATION (Appareil & Condé aux Amandes ou Aux 
Avelines), 


Put into a vessel three ounces of powdered sugar, one ounce of vanilla sugar, four ounces of 
icing sugar. Dilute this compound gradually with egg-whites, in such a manner that a smooth 
running paste is obtained, and beat it well for several minutes, so that it becomes a consistent 
body. To this add six ounces of dry almonds or filberts, shelled, ground or chopped up very fine. 


(3). TO CHOP AND SHRED ALMONDS (Pour Hacher et Effiler les Amandes), 


Chopped.—When the almonds are partly dry, chop them up and sift them through a sieve . 
(Fig. 94), chop again all that remains on the sieve and continue until there be no more to 
pass through. | 

Shredded Almonds.—Are freshly peeled almonds dried well in a cloth, then cut into thin 
fillets on their length, or else put them into a special machine that shreds them also, but they 
never look so well, as the machine cuts them into all sorts of shapes, while with the knife, they 
are cut into uniform lengths. 


(4), ALMOND MILK (Lait d’Amandes), 


Pound half a pound of almonds with a few spoonfuls of cold water and two spoonfuls of 
orange-flower water; prepare a very fine paste with this and dilute with a pint of water; strain the 
liquid forcibly through a napkin. 


(5), TO PEEL ALMONDS, PISTACHIOS OR FILBERTS (Pour Monder les Amandes, Pistaches ou 
Avelines), 


In order to remove the peels from almonds, filberts or pistachio nuts, they must first be 
plunged into boiling water and left on the fire until the skin detaches easily under the pressure of 
the finger, then drain and refresh in cold water; now drain and peel them by removing the skins 
wash in cold water, drain, wipe and dry in the heater or in a well aired place. 

For Filberts or Nuts.--To be peeled dry, crack the shells with a nut-cracking machine, being 
careful not to break the kernel, then peel them dry by putting the nuts on a baking sheet and 
pushing it into a medium oven, removing them immediately the outer skin detaches when the nut 
is rubbed between the thumb and first finger; keep them either whole or in halves and use for 
ice cream and desserts. Those peeled in water are for chopping, or splitting in two for nougats, 
also for cooked sugar pastes. 


(6). TO POUND, CRUSH, AND COLOR ALMONDS (Pour Piler Broyer et Colorer les Amandes), 


To Pound.—Almonds are pounded in a mortar or crushed in a machine; in the mortar by 
wetting a few at the time with either eggs or liquids, then stirring in some sugar. In a machine, 
by mixing the almonds and sugar together and pouring it into the funnel of the machine; the first 
time they should be barely crushed, pass through four times, tightening the cylinders slightly for 
each turn, and the last time the almonds should be reduced to a paste. 

To Color Almonds.—Use chopped or shredded almonds for coloring. For pink, dilute a little 
carmine in some thirty degree syrup with a little kirsch; rub the almonds in this and dry them. 
For violet, use red, blue and maraschino; for orange, yellow, red and curagao; for lemon color, 
yellow and noyau; and for green, spinach and orange flower water. 

(169) 


170 THE EPICUREAN. 


(7). TO BLANCH RICE (Pour Blanchir le Riz), 


Before blanching rice it should be picked, washed, then put into a saucepan and moistened 
with cold water; bring the liquid to boiling point, stirring it frequently with a spoon so it does not 
adhere to the bottom of the saucepan, and let it boil for seven or eight minutes, pour the rice into 
a sieve to drain, refresh in cold water and strain. 


(8), TO BLANCH VEGETABLES (Pour Blanchir les Légumes), 


Vegetables are blanched in more or less time according to their nature, and not only to correct 
their bitterness, but to soften them as well; the blanching is the prologue of the cooking and is 
accomplished in boiling, salted water, either in a saucepan, a tinned copper pan, a copper untinned 
pan, or an untinned saucepan. In the copper and untinned pans, only the green vegetables 
should be cooked, such as spinach, green peas, string beans, fresh asparagus, in fact all vegetables 
that must retain a pretty, pale green color. Artichokes should be cooked in a very clean well- 
tinned saucepan. To blanch parsley, chervil, tarragon, onions, shallots, etc., plunge them in 
boiling water several times. 


(9) TO BONE POULTRY OR GAME (Pour Désosser la Volaille et le Gibier), 


Poultry or game are generally boned in order to stuff them properly; they must first be singed 
lightly, the legs cut off as well as the pinions and neck, keeping the skin of the latter as long as 
possible ; split the skin right along the back so as to free the carcass on both sides, using a small 
knife for this purpose, afterward separate the stump from each wing, so as to reach the fillets. 
When the fore-part of the belly is detached, separate also the thighs by dislocating them at the first 
joint adhering to the carcass, then bone the fleshy part of the thighs and the drum-sticks. Cut 
the carcass down as far as the rump, so as to detach it entirely, and if these instructions are 
strictly followed, the piece of poultry or game will be found to be entirely boned, and the only 
parts now to be removed are the stumps of the wings and the large nerve found in the flesh of the 
thighs, and detach from the carcass the two minion fillets from which you remove the nerves. 


(10), DISH BORDERS OF NOODLE PASTE, COOKED PASTE, METAL, ENGLISH PASTE OR 
GUM PASTE, DISH BOTTOMS, FOUNDATIONS, SUPPORTS, TRIANGLE FOR DRESS8- 
ING TONGUES, HATELETS FOR HOT REMOVES AND ENTREES, FANCY FRILLS, 
AND FAVOR FRILLS (Bordures de Plat en Nouilles Pate Cuite, et en Métal, Pate 
Anglaise et Pastillage, Fonds de Plats et Supports, Crofton Triangle pour Dresser les 
Langues, Hatelets pour Relevés et Entrées Chauds, Bouftettes et Manchettes), 

Several kinds of borders are used in the kitchen for the purpose of decorating dishes; those 
most employed are cut out with a pastry cutter from a band of noodle paste (No. 142.) To make “i 
noodle paste borders requires ingenuity, although it is not difficult. First it needs a 
good noodle paste of a fine color and very smooth; divide itin several parts and roll 
these into sausage shapes, then flatten down with a rolling pin drawing them out to a 
sufficient length so the band 
can reach all around the basin 
of the dish; then cut these 
bands into the desired width 
keeping them exceedingly 
straight ; roll them over on 
themselves without pressing, 
then unroll slowly on to a paper 
band to design them with a Fig. 2. 
cutter (Fig. 1), rolling up the cut out end as soon as finished to prevent the paste from 
drying; they may also be molded in molds shown in Fig. 2. 7 

To fasten the border onto the dish, push a string of repere (No. 142) through a cornet around 7 
the basin of the dish exactly where the border is to stand upright; place the dish on top of a cool i 
part of the range and unroll the cut-out band speedily onto the repere to fasten it on in an upright | 
position, attach the two ends together, then bend the band outward with the fingers to give it 
sufficient splay, turning it around all the time until it is dry enough to stand by itself, then cover | 
over to prevent the border from drying. | 

Another style of border (Fig. 3) greatly admired is made of cooked white paste (No. 131) also 
carved out with the pastry cutter, but under more simple conditions and is more resisting. These 
are very appropriate for entrées having an abundance of garnishing or a plentiful supply of gravy, 
thereby requiring a more resisting substance than noodle paste. This kind can be seen in the 














; i = 4 % 
oe ee ae m 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 171 


different entrées illustrated in this work, but more specially in the figure representing a chicken 
a la Montesquieu (Fig. 372). But a style even more used and certainly far more practical is a 
border made of metal (Figs. 4-5-6); they are fit to be served at a family dinner as well as at 
the most luxurious banquet in which the dishes are invariably handed round to the guests, for 
































instance those viands dressed in the kitchen. These borders are movable and should be made 
the same size as the basin of the dish for which it is intended. These borders are of sterling 
silver, but they can be imitated in plated ware; let it be well understood that these borders 
can only be placed on metal, silver or plated dishes. 


For Borders of English Paste or Gum Paste.—Roll out the paste to the 
desired thickness and with a fancy cutter (Fig. 6A) cut out some pieces and dry 
them on an even surface covered with paper ; when finished place them in closed 
boxes in a dry place and when ready to use push a string of royal icing on 
the edge of the basin of the dish or platform and dress the border very evenly 
around. 





Fic. 6 A. 


Dish Bottoms, Foundations and Supports.—These foundations or dish bottoms serve for 
dressing pieces, removes or entrées, so to raise them and 
give them a more elegant appearance. They are to be 
made either of bread, rice, hominy, wood or tin. Round 







A 






























































Fria. 7. 


ig or entrées 1s ¢ and a 
ones for entrées and ovals for removes or large roasts. The height for entrees 1s about one 


>of w r tin are > covered 
half inches, while for removes they are to be two inches ; those of w ood or tin are to be cove 
Os =a. ae a es = -f 7 
with noodle paste, those of rice or hominy are sculptured or carved with a knife 


172 THE EPICUREAN. ; an 


_Molded supports are to be prepared for boned turkeys, capon, pullet, etc.; these are of an 
oblong shape, rounded at the ends (See Fig. 9 A.); the longest ones intended foe turkey’s are nine 
and a quarter inches long by four and three ee wide and two and a see high; for capons 










































































Fie. 9. Fie 9.A. 


they are to be nine inches long, four and a half wide and two inches high; for tenderloins of 
beef, ten inches long by four wide and two and a half high; for hams, they are oval shaped, twelve 
by nine and three high. 


Triangle for Dressing se etc.—For the largest ones have the three sides of the 
triangle each twelve inches long; the thickness at the 
base is three inches and two inches at the top; they can 
be made either of rice or hominy in molds having the 

required dimensions (Fig. 10), or else lower ones with 
the following proportions: length at the base, twelve 
inches by eight high; cut off an inch and a half from 
the top of the smallest and three inches from the 
largest; this will form a platform for placing the 
subjects on. They can also be made of bread spread 
over with green butter and then | 
heavily strewn with very finely 
chopped green parsley. Let it 
be well understood that the socles -ealled dish bottoms are not intended to 

be eaten. The socle has nothing whatever to do with the dish itself; it 
represents an accessory made for the purpose of raising the meats, etc., 
dressed over it, showing off advantageously the surrounding garnishing. 





Fic. 10. 


Hatelets (Skewers) for Hot Removes and Entrées,—Hatelets are em- 
ployed either as an ornament or else a garnishing; they are applied to 
removes and entrée dishes. Hatelets should only be used on ceremonious 
occasions, for a too prodigal use of them is apt to decrease their value. 
They are ornamented with unpeeled truffles, mushrooms, or cock’s combs, 
either plain or double hatelets are also composed of Villeroi quenelles, 
sweetbread croquettes, or glazed crawfish ; they are also made of vegetables, 
carrots, turnips and artichoke bottoms slightly blanched. Hatelets in 
tended for garnishing cold pieces are to be found in the chapter on cold 
dishes (No. 2526). 





Fancy Frills for Large Pieces, such as Leg of Mutton, Ham, etc.—Cut a band 
of paper twelve inches long by three and a half wide; fold it in two on its length 
and again in two, this making aseven-eighths of an inch wide band, cut it finely 
on the folded edge, or else pass it through a cutting machine; unfold the band, 
turn it over so that the cutting detaches better, then twist this band in a spiral 
around a tin tube; fasten the end with a little mucilage, take it off 
the tube and place inside either a straight or turned up sconce. To 
make these sconces, fold a thin sheet of paper six inches square in two, 
then in four, then again fold in a triangle, beginning at the pointed 
ends, fold it once more. Cut the paper pointed shaped beginning from 
the center and rounding toward the bottom; unfold, and with the blade 
of a small knife, press down each fold so as to have them all come on Bie. 
one side and thus form a kind of pointed funnel. Unite the points one on to the other, closing 
and pressing them together; they should now be the same shape as when cut; place one in the 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 7 173 


corner of a fine towel, fold it over, press down heavily with the palm of the left hand, then pull 
the napkin quickly away with the right hand; by this operation, and the pressure, the paper is 
both folded and goffered at once; the sconce is now 
made and it only requires to have the bottom cut off 
to fit it into the frill. (See Fig. 18 and 14.) 

Fancy Frills for Cutlets, Chicken Legs or Wings. 
—Cut some sheets of paper five inches long by three 
inches wide, fold in two across the length; fold once 
more in two; cut them by clipping in slits one thirty- 
second of an inch apart, or else use the machine. 
Fold this band, twining it in such a manner that the 
slits are rounded, then fasten with a little mucilage; 
roll the frill spiralwise on a column-tube or a piece of 
round wood three-eighths of an inch in diameter. 
Attach the end of the paper with a little mucilage 
and when the frill is properly fastened, cut the ends 
off straight so that they are all of one length (Fig. 12). 






































Favor Frilis—Have a smail piece of rounded 
wood an eighth of an inch in diameter and an inch 
and three-quarters long, tapered on one end; roll on this spiralwise, some prepared paper a 
third smaller than for the other frills; fasten the two ends together on the stick and trim the 
paper adhering to the stick with a small ribbon fastened on in the shape of a little rosette. These 
favors are for chicken-breasts, lobster cutlets, ete. 


Fig. 15. 


(11). TO PREPARE BOUCHEES (Pour Préparer les Bouchées), 


Roll out on a floured table some six turned puff paste (No. 146), keeping it one quarter of an inch 
in thickness; let this paste rest, and then cut from it a dozen round pieces, using a channeled pastry 
cutter, from two, to two and a quarter inches in diameter (Fig. 16). Turn these over on to a wet 
baking sheet, leaving them a short distance apart, and egg over the surfaces with 
abrush. Trace on them quickly a ring using a smooth, well heated pastry 





Sitters rgeeias 


= Sa 


Fie. 18. 





eutter (Fig. 17), so that the incision is clear, and with a small knife trace three lines in the 
inside of this ring (Fig. 18); put the baking sheet into an oven, not excessively hot, and cook the 
bouchées for eighteen to twenty minutes; detaeh them from the baking-sheet, slipping a knife 
underneath each one, open at once to empt¥ them, save the covers, and keep warm until needed. 


(12), TO BRAIZE OR POELER, SMOTHER OR SAUTER (Pour Braiser, Poéler, Etuver ou Sauter), 

Braizing meat is to cook a piece of meat in a saucepan, lining the bottom with bardes or slices 
of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots and onions cut in slices, a bunch of parsiey garnished with 
bay leaves, a little thyme, chives and one onion with cloves in it. Arrange the meat, fowl or 
game on top of these and moisten with some broth, then re-cover the meat with more bardes of 
fat pork ; these meats must be cooked slowly in a slack oven, or by placing hot coals on the cover. 

Poéler.—Cut up one pound of breast of pork and half a pound of raw ham, into half inch 
squares; six ounces of carrot, four ounces of onion in half inch squares, two bay leaves, the same 
quantity of thyme, a bit of mace, two cloves and some basil, the whole of these aromatics tied 
inside a bunch of parsley. Melt the pork with the vegetables and bouquet, not letting it color, 
then place on top a fat pullet prepared and trussed as for an entrée, covering the breasts with slices 
of peeled lemon, and bardes of fat pork tied on with a string; pour over some fat broth from the 
stock-pot and also some white broth to moisten to half the height, being careful to renew the 
moistening at times so that the same quantity always remains. 


Smothering meat is to cook it slowly in a good stock without evaporation taking place, so that 
it cooks entirely and retains its natural flavor. Smothered meats must always be thoroughly cooked, 


174 THE EPICUREAN. 


Sauter.—Either in a sauteuse or in a pan; let the article cook rapidly on a quick fire 
tossing backward, forward, and frequently. We sauté potatoes, etc. Chickens or tenderloin are 
sautéd either in fat or oil on a moderate, but well regulated fire, turning the meats over when 
they are a fine color. 


(13), TO BREAD WITH BREAD ORUMBS, ENGLISH, FLOUR, MILANESE ORACKERS AND 
DEVILED (Pour Paner & la Panure, a ]’Anglaise, & la Farine, & la Milanaise, 4 la Poudre de Cracker 
et a la Diable), 

Bread Crumbs.—We generally bread crumb all substances that are to be broiled or fried; if 


for broiling, they must first be coated with oil or melted butter, then laid in bread crumbs, or 


white breading, or else in bread raspings, or brown crumbs as explained below. 

For substances to be fried, such as croquettes, roll them first in white bread crumbs, then dip 
them in beaten eggs strained through a Chinese strainer, or else put four eggs in a bow! with salt, 
pepper, a tablespoonful of oil, the same quantity of water, and strain all through a strainer. 

Drain quickly and roll them again in white bread crumbs, and smooth the surfaces either by 
rolling them on a table or else use the blade of a knife. 


To Bread Crumb, English Style.—Use only the yolk of the eggs instead of whole ones, mix- 
ing for each ten yolks, ten ounces of melted butter. 


White Bread Crumbd.—Is used for breading meats, fish and all substances to be fried: this 
breading is prepared with slightly stale bread, cutting off the crusts, and grating or rubbing the 
crumbs in a cloth, then passing it through a sieve (Fig. 95.), it must be kept in a cool, dry place, 
spreading it out and stirring at times. : 


Brown Bread Crumbs.—Is prepared with white bread dried in a heater and slightly browned 
in a very slack oven and afterward pounded and sifted through a sieve (Fig. 95). 


To Bread with Flowr.—Dip the articles such as fish, ete., in seasoned milk, then roll them 
in flour. For egg-plant, roll them merely in flour, omitting the milk. 


To Bread Crumb &@ la Milanaise.—Mix bread- crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, half 
and half; dip the substances to be breaded, in melted butter, then lay them in the cheese and 
bread-crumb mixture, equalizing well the crumbs with the blade of a knife. 


To Bread with Powdered Crackers.—Dip the substance in beaten egg and its equal quantity 
of milk and then roll them in powdered crackers. 


To Bread & la Diable (deviled).—Season first the substances, then coat them over with mus- 
tard and dip them in beaten eggs and roll them lastly in bread-crumbs. 


(14), BREASTS OF PORK SALTED AND SMOKED, ENGLISH BAOON (Lard de Poitrine Salé et 
Fumé. Petit salé a l’ Anglaise), 


If needed for summer use, begin toward the end of March to dry-salt some breasts of pork for 
four days, then pack them tight in a salting tub and cover over with a thin layer of salt. Pour 
over them a freshly made, and highly salted brine, place on top a perforated cover, and lay over 
some heavy stones, so that the breasts are entirely submerged, and leave them in this state until 
needed, setting the tub in a cool well-aired place. 

This salt pork will keep well until the fall, although it will be much saltier than if prepared in 


the usual way. The usual way is to wash the breasts and put them in brine in a special salting 


tub without any other meat; use a fork to remove them from the brine, as the hands cause fermen- 
tation, and when the salt pork is needed for use, it can be unsalted in cold water for several hours 


or till sufficiently done. Bacon or smoked salt pork is prepared the same, putting it in a brine - 


half as strong and keeping it in a 50 degree Fahrenheit temperature, but no more. Drain and dry 
in an aired place, then smoke for three days in the cold. 


(15). BRINE (Saumure), 


Brine is used for the preservation of meats and at the same time to give them the taste of any 
preferred aroma; for this reason we select among the many ways that are employed in different 
countries, one that we are sure will answer for our present needs. 

Boil in a large kettle twenty-five quarts of water, twenty-four pounds of salt, two pounds of 
saltpetre, three pounds of brown sugar and two ounces of carbonate of soda. Into a bag put a 
mixture weighing ten ounces, including thyme, bayleaf, sage, rosemary, juniper berries, savory, 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 175 


having more of each as desired, or less, if a certain taste displeases. After the salt is dissolved, 
Jeave the liquid to cool and then weigh it with a salt weight; with this it should be twelve degrees. 

To salt the meats, be careful to accomplish this when dry, by rubbing the meat with salt and 
a little saltpetre, and then let rest for twenty-four hours before putting it in brine. Strain the 
brine and cover all the salted parts and leave it in a cool place during the operation. The time 
needed for salting is according to the size of the pieces. 

A ham weighing seventeen pounds requires twenty-five days; a breast weighing twelve pounds 
requires fifteen days; a shoulder weighing fifteen pounds requires twenty days. 

These indications are for meats to be eaten unsmoked. In case they should be smoked leave 
them ten days longer. Soak for twelve hours in cold water and then hang them in a smoking 
room or else in a big chimney, having them smoke slowly with oak shavings mixed with thyme, 
bayleaf, sage, ete. 


To Salt Hams.—Put into a large kettle one pound of salt, four ounces of saltpetre, six ounces 
of brown sugar, thyme, bayleaf, basil, two ounces of juniper berries, a quarter of an ounce of 
botanic calament, all tied up in a bag, and when the salt has dissolved by boiling, remove from 
the fire, let cool to settle the brine and then pour off the clear part. Burn some aromatic herbs 
in a barrel, put in the hams, pour the brine, already strained through a sieve, over, close the 
barrel and leave it for eighteen days; drain out the hams, hang them up for twelve days in a 
well-aired cool place, then hang them in the chimney for twenty days. Wrap them in sheets of 
paper and hang in a dry place. 


For Winter Hams.—-These hams can only be kept during the winter. Have two hundred 
pounds of small corn-fed hams; rub over well with salt, then put them into a barrel and leave them 
for three days in a very cool place. Three days later put them into another barrel, cover over with 
salt brine, having sufficient salt to allow a potato to float on the surface; the hams must be en 
tirely immersed in the brine, cover with a board and a weight atop. Twelve days after change 
them into another barrel and pour the brine again over, this is so that they change positions and 
salt easier. 

After another lapse of twelve days, drain and put them to soak in cold water for twelve 
hours; drain once more, leave to dry in the open air for eight days, then smoke them in a smoke 
house for two days with hickory wood. 


(16), CLARIFIED AND PURIFIED BUTTER (Beurre Clarifié et Epuré), 


Clarified.—To clarify butter it should first be melted so as to extract all the buttermilk, 
letting it cook slowly; skim and when well despumated from all its impurities and it begins to 
smoke then it is ready; strain it through a fine piece of linen and keep to use when needed. 


Purified.—Melt some butter in a deep saucepan, boil it for two or three minutes, remove, let 
stand to settle, then skim and pass it through a fine sieve pouring off the top only so to leave the 
sediment on the bottom. 


(17), BUTTER FOR BUTTERING MOLDS (Beurre Pour Beurrer les Moules), 


Melt one pound of veal kidney suet by chopping it up finely, then putting it into a saucepan 
with hatf a pint of water on a slow fire, stir occasionally to prevent its fastening on to the bottom 
of the saucepan and when the fat is limpid, add the same weight of fresh, saltless butter; stir 
until the butter and fat are perfectly clear. 


Cold Butter for Buttering Molds.—It suffices only to knead some unsalted butter on the table 
to extract all its moisture and give it body, then put it into a cloth, sponge it off, put it in a pan 
in a warm temperature and work it until it becomes soft as cream. 


(18), TO PREPARE LIQUID CARAMEL (Caramel Liquide), 


Liquid caramel is most necessary; it is used for coloring broths, gravies and even 
sauces, when their tints are found to be too light, still caramel should be used with discre- 
tion, for it is apt to give a bitter taste to the colored liquids into which it is added. Put a few 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar into a copper pan, stir it overa slow fire, then remove it on to a 
slower one to let cook until it becomes quite brown, and the smoke arising from it is whitish, this 
is a sign that it is thoroughly done. Take the pan from off the fire, moisten the sugar proportion- 


176 THE EPICUREAN.. 


ately with hot water, and allow the liquid to boil while stirring, and cook till the consistence of a 


light syrup is obtained. Caramel should be kept in a small, well-closed bottle, having a cork per- - 


forated lengthwise, so that when the bottle is turned over, the liquid can drop out slowly without 
it being necessary to uncork it. 


(19), TO CARVE ON THE TABLE (Pour Découper a Table), 


Carving should be done with ease and dexterity. It is a simple operation, yet to be 
a perfect carver one must have a few ideas of the natural construction of the various pieces to be 
cut up. The meat to be carved must be laid on a dish without any sauce or garnishing, so as to 
be able to turn it around to the most convenient position. The tools indispensable for carving 
consist of a solid two or three-pronged fork, a good, keen, sharp-bladed knife and a pair of carving 


Buty), ml 

































































Fia. 21. Fig. 22, 


scissors. It is essential to begin on the most practical side, and also to be able to distinguish all 
of the best parts so as to carve without deteriorating from their appearance or without injuring 
their gastronomical qualities. 


It is an easy study, but one that ought not to be neglected, for what embarrasses and confuses 


a carver is when he is unable to find the different joints, or else when he begins cutting a piece of 
meat against the grain. It is to facilitate this operation. that we deem it necessary to give a few 
hints and suggestions, and as almost each piece is accompanied by a design, it will be easy to learn 
how to carve those meats usually served whole on the table. 


(20). FISH; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper le Poisson), 
A general rule almost always observed for cutting up fish at table, is to use only silver imple- 
ments; this to be specially followed for boiled and braised fish. Fried fish is the only kind where 
knives are allowable. To carve boiled fish, use either a silver fish slice, spoon or fork. The lines 



























































traced on the back of the fish (Fig. 23) denote in what direction it must be cut, observing, as the figure 
indicates, that it should be on the opposite side to the belly, for on this part the fleshiest meat 
is found. To. cut up a bass, salmon, ete., or any fish of a long shape, first trace a line following 
the course of the bone, beginning at the head and finishing at the tail, then divide this back 
piece into slices and lay each one on a separate plate. All meats taken from the back and 
sides ofa fish are fleshier and preferable to those found on the belly. 





j 
| 
; 


7 s . « 
Pee ee 


( 
; 
‘ 
4 









ELEMENTARY METHODS. wee 


Fish slice.—A name given to a certain utensil with which fish is cut at the table to serve 
it on plates. These slices are made of silver or silver-plate; the blade is broad and sharpened 





Fig. 24. 


on one side, fastened to a handle. Smaller slicers are also placed on the table to facilitate 
serving flat cakes, flawns and tarts that are difficult to lift with a spoon or a knife. 


(21), PARTRIDGES; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper les Perdreaux), 


: There are various ways of carving partridges; when young, simply divide them in two length- 

wise; when large, either detach the hind part from the breast or divide each one in three on their 
length, that is, cut a part of the breast with the leg on, so to leave the upper breast adhere to 
a part of the carcass; then detach with a pair of carving scissors; this is demonstrated in the 





Fie. 25. Fic. 26. “Fig, 27. Fig. 28. 
drawing. If the hind part is detached with the breast, then this should be divided into three 
parts and returned to their original position; in this manner it is difficult to perceive that the 
partridge has been cut, for it is given its natural form. Large partridges need simply cutting 
in four. j 


(22), PHEASANT AND GROUSE OR PRAIRIE CHICKEN; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un 
Faigan une Grouse ou un Tétras). 

A pheasant can be carved the same way as a large chicken (Fig. 35), which means to cut it 
in five pieces, but should it be extra large two fillets can be taken from each side of the breast, 
leaving an upper or central part of the breast. The legs are generally dry and tough, yet should 
they have to be served, cut each one in two. 

Grouse or prairie chicken can be carved exactly the same. 


(23), ROAST BEEF; HOW TO CARVE RIBS (Pour Découper une Pidce de Cotes de Buf Roti), 








American roast beef is taken from the ribs; sometimes seven ribs are served, but the piece 
containing only six is far more advantageous, while the four rib piece, cut from the short loin is 


178 THE. EPICGUREAD, 


better still. Roast beef must be carved on the table, or else on the dining-room sideboard, for — 


when cut beforehand it becomes dry and loses the best part of its juices. Roast beef is to be cut in 
thin slices, leaving a small piece of fat adhering to each one; at once place them on hot plates and 
be careful to baste with a little of the gravy flowing from the meat on to the dish. 


(24). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Filet de Bouf), 


Whether the tenderloin be roasted or braized, when cutting off slices for the guests, do not let — 


them be too thick or too thin; remove half an inch of the sole from the tenderloin (Fig. 30) and 





































































































cut the meat into even thin slices, crosswise if the tenderloin be large; if thin, have the slices cut 
on the bias, but do not penetrate through the sole piece; pare the bottom free of fat. Serve these 
slices on very hot plates with a little of its gravy, independent of the accompanying sauce or gar- 
nishing, which must be served separately. 


(25). HOT HAM; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Jambon Chaud), 
Ham served hot is better when carved at the table, for it retains its essential juices. The 
most delicate part of a ham is the kernel, it being the fleshiest: this is to be cut in not 
too thick slices, leaving the fat adhering to the meat, then placed on hot plates; serve a good 


o 
-« 
en 





moo 






ZX 






































sauce separately in a sauceboat. When the ham is accompanied by a garnishing, it must also be 
served separately and offered to the guests. In order to have a ham prepared for handing round, 
it should first be cut up, then reconstructed the same as should a leg of mutton. 


(26). LEG OF MUTTON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Gigot de Mouton), 


. If the leg be roasted, carve it at the table or in the dining-room. It must be served on a dish 
without gravy, sauce or garnishing. Seize the end bone of the leg, having the kernel uppermost, 
for this is to be cut first, it being the fleshiest and the best part of the leg. The slices must be 





Fig. 32. 


broad and thin, to be served on very hot plates, each one accompanied by-a little of the good gravy 
flowing from the meat. Should the leg have a garnishing this must be served apart. 
Lamb is carved the same way. The bone end of the leg to be trimmed with a specially made 


handle, or else a fancy favor frill. When the leg is to be presented at the table, it should be pre- 


viously carved and reconstructed to its original shape. 





oS 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 179 


(27), SADDLE OF MUTTON, SADDLE OF LAMB, AND SADDLE OF VENISON, ROASTED; HOW 
TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Selle de Mouton, d’Agneau, et de Chevreuil Roti), 


The dish containing these roasts must be placed on the table before the person who is to carve; 
the loin end to be turned to the left, for from this end is the saddle begun. There are two 
ways of carving the roasted saddle; the first way is to cut the slices on the length of the 
meat, slightly bias; see braized saddle, Fig. 38. They to be neither too long nor too thin. 
For the second way, the slices are cut the entire length of the meat, but in every case serve on 
very hot plates, adding a little of the good gravy from the meat and serving another gravy sepa- 
rately in a sauceboat. 


(28). BRAIZED SADDLE OF MUTTON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Selle de Mouton 
Braisée), 

To have a braized saddle of mutton carved on the table, it should be placed on a hot dish with- 

out any gravy or garnishing; first make two incisions, 
one on each side, just between the fat of the flank or the 
kernel, then cut the large fillets across in rather thick 
slices; avoid having too much fat on any of them. A 
saddle of mutton can be carved in the kitchen without 
deteriorating from its good qualities; in this case, remove 
the fillets entirely, pare free of all fat and cut them 
across in half inch thick slices; return them to their original position, and when serving, hand 
around at the same time, both garnishing and a sauceboatful of gravy or sauce. 


(29), LOIN AND KERNEL OF VEAL; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Longe ou une Noix 
de Veau), 

Before carving a loin of veal, first detach the tenderloin and kidney; cut the loin into cross- 
wise slices, not too thin, and place each one on a hot plate, adding a slice of the kidney or minion 
fillet, also a little good gravy or any sauce accompanying this remove, only serving it separately. 

On Fig. 327 will be found a larded kernel of veal, served as an entrée on a round dish. In 
order to cut the kernel, it requires to be held firmly by the fork on the udder side, enabling the 
larded meat to be cut in not too thick slices. Serve on hot plates with a little gravy, independent 
of the sauce or garnishing that accompanies it. 





(30). GOOSE OR DUCK; HOW TO OARVE (Pour Découper une Oie ou un Canard), 


Geese and ducks are carved the same as other poultry; when young, 
their legs can be served, but if large and older it were better to leave them 
undetached on the carcass. To carve a goose with ease, the breast must 
be turned toward the carver, as shown in Fig. 34. The meats of each side 
of the breast are to be cut in not too thin fillets and immediately placed 
on hot plates, then basted over with a little good gravy. When the geese 
are stuffed, add to each plateful a small piece of the dressing. If serving 
the legs of a young goose or,duck it is obligatory, first to detach them from 
the carcass and divide in medium-sized pieces with the carving scissors. 
Large tame ducks are carved the same as geese, and young ducklings can 
be separated in four parts. The breast alone of wild ducks is used, 
lifting one fillet from off each side or both fillets may be divided tength- 
wise in two; serve these ona little good gravy taken from the carcasses, 
after breaking them up and pressing out all the juice; heat this gravy 
slightly with lemon juice, salt, mignonette and finely chopped blanched shallot. 





Fia, 34, 


(31), PIGEONS; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper des Pigeons). 


Young pigeons are served whole or simply cut lengthwise in two; when very large, separate 
the hind part from the breast part and make two pieces of each of these. 


(39), PULLET OR CAPON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Poularde ou un Chapon), 


A large piece of poultry that requires to be carved at table, calls for the greatest care in order 
to have all the pieces neat, even and of a proper size, neither too large nor too small. A pair of 
carving scissors will be found indispensable. To proceed with ease have the pieces laid on a dish 


















180. THE EPICUREAN. 


in front of the carver; should the pinions be left on the wings, cut them off with the scissors, ‘thee 
cut from the breast one small slice, taking the minion fillet along; from the remainder of the breast ‘ta 
cut another pretty slice through the entire length. If the breast of the chicken be very large cut — 
from it another slice without encroaching on the top part of the breast; after one side is finished — 
cut the other without changing its position and as soon as the fillets are all removed, detach the a 
thighs from the carcass by disjointing them, but first cut away the skin from the carcass just 
where the thigh begins; in this way it can be lifted off with a fork assisting with the blade of a 
knife. As soon as one riveas is detached, separate the leg at the knee bone with the scissors and | 
divide the thigh in two, either across or on the length. 3 





‘can’ 
Fae liga 
itl i 


-—-. 
--. 


= — me 





Fie. 35. Fig. 36. Fic. 37 


The carcass can also be divided transversely in two or three pieces. The whole operation must 
be dexterous and speedy as all eyes are apt to be watching the carver, therefore he must not hesi- 
tate, but proceed bravely to the end. When a medium-sized fowl is to be carved, it can first be 
divided into four parts, detaching the legs from the carcass, then the breasts without making any 
upper breast. With these four parts eight pieces can be secured, two from each leg and two i 
each breast, cutting these on their length according to the lines marked in the figures. 


(33), ROAST TURKEY ; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Dinde Rotie), 


To be able to carve a turkey at table it requires a certain amount of self-possession, for they are 
frequently very fat, and, therefore, more difficult to manipulate than a pullet. Unless it cannot be 
avoided, the legs of a roast turkey should not be detached, serving only the breast part; this is done 
in two distinct ways: the first consists of cutting the breast pieces in crosswise slices slightly on 
the bias as shown in the figure; the second by cutting the fillets lengthwise from the breasts with- — 





. Fie. 38. 
out having any upper breast part; in either case it is proper before beginning to detach the wings 
from both sides with a part of the breast adhering. When the thighs are wanted, detach them one 
after the other; clip off the drum sticks at the knee joint and then divide the second joint meats 
in pieces, leaving the drum stick whole. The gravy that is to be served with a roast turkey 
should always be in a separate sauceboat. 


(34), CHOPPED PARSLEY, TRUFFLES, ONIONS, SHALLOTS, MUSHROOMS; TONGUE AND a 
CORAL (Pour Hacher le Persil, les Truffes, les Oignons, les Echalotes, les Champignons, la Langue | 
et le Corail), 

For Chopped Parsley see No. 123. 


For Truffies.—Slice them and wipe off all the adhering moisture, then chop them up fine, 


spread them on a tin sheet covered with a sheet of paper, dry in the air and keep them in a cool 
place till needed. 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 181 


For Onions.—Out them in two, suppress the end stalk, and slice them perpendicularly, then 
cut them horizontally into squares more or less large; they may afterward be chopped up so as to 
loosen them, and have them finer; wash them in cold water, drain on a cloth to extract all the 
ek proceed the same for shallots, without cutting them in two and put them on a plate in a 
cool place. 


for Mushrooms.—If they are already cooked, drain them well, slice, then chop them up; if 
raw, peel off the skin, wash them nicely, cut in squares, then chop; use them immediately. 


For Red Beef Tongue.—Use only the thin end of the tongue, slice, chop and lay it on a tin 
sheet covered with a sheet of paper, expose them to a draught to dry, chop once more until very 
fine, then pass them through a sieve, and Keep in a cool place till needed. 


or Lobster Coral.—Take out the red part found inside of a boiled lobster, wash it nicely, 
changing the water frequently, dry it in the air, then chop it up very fine to pass through a sieve 
(Fig. 96); spread it on a tin sheet over a sheet of paper, dry it in the air, and keep it for use in a 
cool place. , 


(35), TO OOAT JELLY MOLDS AND MOLD JELLIES (Pour Ohemiser les Moules 3 Gelée et Mouler 


les Gelées), 


If the mold need be only lightly coated, it is sufficient just to cool it on ice, then pour into it 
the cold liquid jelly and move it around so that it reaches all the sides; put the mold back on to 
the ice, and begin the operation again a quarter of an hour later, but should the coating of jelly 
be required thick, then glue over the top of the mold a 
heavy paper, and when the gum is dry, cut a ring in the 
surface of the paper with the tip of a small knife, 
leaving all around a margin a quarter of an inch, then 
pour some jelly into the mold, and turn it round on the 
ice inclining it in such a way that the coat acquires the 
necessary thickness on all its sides. 











To Mold Jellies.—Put some ice into a small vessel, 
add its equal quantity of water, and set it in a cylin- 
drical fancy mold; fill this up with some cold liquid 
jelly, lay on top and half an inch bigher than the mold a tin sheet or plate, cover this with broken 
ice without any salt and after the jelly is thoroughly cold and firm, unmold it. In order to 
accomplish this, dip the mold quickly into hot water at one hundred and fifteen to one hundred 
and twenty degrees. Fahrenheit; wipe it briskly and overturn it on to a cold dish as soon as the 
jelly detaches, and then remove the mold. 





(36). TO PREPARE COCOANUT (Préparation de la Noix de Coco). 


Break a cocoanut across in two, exactly in the center; slip the blade of a thin round-tipped 
knife between the nut and the shell, push it in with the right hand and turn the cocoa with the 
left; detach and take out the entire half nut; remove the outer skin covering the nut with a vege- 
table knife (Fig. 156), and when it is all peeled, throw the nut into cold water; drain and scrape it 
on a coarse grater. Use a part of it for roasting by putting the grated nut on a sheet of paper 
into a moderate oven and keep the remainder into a stone jar in the ice-box mixing it with an equal 
weight of sugar. 


(37), VEGETABLE COLORS (Couleurs Végétales), 


Spinach green is frequently used for coloring purées, soups, butters, sauces and sugar. It is 
the healthiest coloring matter, and if possible use no other. Spinach green is prepared with very 
green, fresh spinach, well washed, pounded in a mortar and when well reduced to a paste, extract 
all the juice through a coarse cloth, and place this in an untinned copper sugar pan, and heat it 
till it decomposes, then pour it over a fine sieve so the pulp or coloring matter remains on top; the 
strained liquid is colorless and useless. For yellow, use a decoction of saffron or dandelion 
flowers; for red, employed for coloring bisques, orchanet dissolved in butter is used. The roucou 
annotto also gives a yellowish red and is much used. Vegetable colors, and clarified carmine, 
Breton Landrin, are those mostly employed. Breton Landrin green is beautiful for coloring 
sugar cooked to crack, as it is not detrimental to its transparency. 


182 THE HPIOUREBAN=?- 


Colorings : Carmine and Cochineal Red.—Take two ounces of ‘No. 42 carmine, broken in 
pieces; wet with a little cold water; crush in a small mortar and dilute with a little twenty-five 
degree syrup. Besides this, boil two quarts of syrup also to twenty-five degrees, mix in the 
carmine, boil up once, strain through a napkin and leave to cool, then add a few coffeespoonfuls of 
liquid ammonia and pour into bottles. 


For Red Cochineal.—Finely pound five ounces of fine cochineal; place it in a copper pan and 
moisten with a quart of water, adding three ounces of cream of tartar, three ounces of alum and 
six ounces of sugar; set the pan on the fire and let the liquid reduce to half; now put in two gills 
of spirit of wine; boil up once, strain throngh a napkin and pour into bottles. 


(38), COURT-BOUILLON, PLAIN. (Court-Bouillon Simple), zs 


Plain court-bouillon is used for cooking large fishes, such as salmon, halibut, bass and lobsters. 

_ This court-bouillon is prepared with vinegar, roots and sliced onions, a large bunch of parsley, 

galt-and water. If the fish has to be plunged into boiling water, cook the court-bouillon for seven 

or eight minutes previous to putting it in, and if on the contrary, then pour the liquid over the 
fish, and bring it to.a boil.  giy he eee eee 


(39), COURT BOUILLON WITH WINE (Court Bouillon au Vin), 


The court bouillon is a most necessary auxiliary in all kitchens, where it plays an important 
part; it is prepared fresh every day, and special care is taken to have it good, for in it the principal 
fishes are cooked, and with it the sauce Normande is made, so useful for hurried work. 

First prepare a broth with the heads of large, fresh fish, some roots, onions, a bunch of parsley 
and a little salt; let it boil very slowly for half an hour, then strain and skim off the fat, and 
leave it to settle until clear. From the bones and heads of bass, sheepshead, blackfish, etc., the 
- best fish stock is obtained. 

Cook a mirepoix composed of sliced roots, shallots and onions, add to it the fragments of fish 
as explained above and cook these together for a few moments on a good fire; moisten with two or 
three gills of white wine and let it fall to a glaze over a brisk fire; moisten it again at once with 
two gills of fish broth and also let this fall to a glaze, then remoisten to their height with good fish 
broth and a little white wine, add a bunch of aromatic herbs, a bunch of parsley, and some fresh 
mushroom peelings, boil the liquid while skimming and set it on one side of the range to despumate 
for a quarter of an hour, skimming it carefully. Strain the stock through a sieve, let it settle, and 
pour off the top into a glazed vessel, and if it be not succulent enough, then reduce it again; keep 
it in a cool place. 

This stock may be easily kept from one day to another, if care be taken to keep the 
vessel and its contents inerusted on ice. This court bouillon may also be moistened with red wine; 
in either case, it must be prepared with the greatest care possible. 


(40) ALMOND CREAM (Créme d’Amandes), 


Pound one pound of almonds with one pound of loaf sugar, slowly adding four small eggs and 
some orange flower water. When the almonds have become a fine paste, take them from the 
mortar and transfer to a vessel, incorporating in six eggs, one at the time and one pound of fresh 
butter softened and divided in small pats. 


(41), ENGLISH CREAM WITH COFFEE (Orme Anglaise au Café), 


Boil a quart of milk, add to it four ounces of freshly roasted coffee beans, cover the 
saucepan and leave to infuse for half an hour. Beat eight egg-yolks with half a pound of 
sugar, dilute with the boiling coffee milk strained through a fine colander; stand the saucepan on a 
slow fire, stir the cream until it becomes quite thick, without allowing it to boil, then take it off, 
strain through a sieve and pour it into a vessel, stir frequently till cold. 


(42), ENGLISH GREAM WITH VANILLA, LEMON OR ORANGE ZEST (Orme Anglaise & la 
Vanille ou aux Zestes de Citron ou d’Orange), 


Beat in a saucepan half a pound of sugar with ten raw egg-yolks; mingle both 
well together and dilute with a quart of boiling milk, having had half a vanilla stick 
broken in pieces infused therein. Cook the cream on a moderate fire, stirring with a spoon 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 183 


or whisk and thicken without boiling; strain this through a fine sieve into a vessel and let cool, 
stirring it occasionally until this occurs. This cream can be flavored with lemon or orange peel 
instead of vanilla. ; 


(43), FRANGIPANE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE, OR WITH MARROW (Créme Frangipane au Cho- 


colat ou & la Moelle), 


Chocolate.—Add to some vanilla frangipane cream as described below, four ounces of chocolate 
melted in a slack oven and diluted a little at the time with cream. . 

Marrow.—Soak in fresh water four ounces of marrow cut in quarter inch pieces, then melt in 
a bain-marie. Into a saucepan put three ounces of sugar, six ounces of flour, four whole eggs and 
six volks; stir well with a spoon and dilute with a quart of boiling milk. Pass. this through a 
sieve into another saucepan, add an ounce of butter and cook, being careful that the cream con- 
tains .no lumps;. when well thickened remove from the fire; mix in a few Bop Eas of ages 
almonds and the melted marrow. 


(44), FRANGIPANE OREAM WITH VANILLA OR ‘ALMONDS (Orme Prangipaue a ; Vanille 0 ou 
aux Amandes. ‘© 

“Place i in a vessel six ounces of flour, six egg-yolks, two whole. eggs, three ounces at garanda 
little salt; dilute with six gills of milk. _ Whip well the preparation, pass it through oth strainer 
into a saucepan and add to it three ounces of butter and half a vanilla bean; sth placing the 
saucepan on the fire until the cream becomes consistent, then remove and beat it. firmly off the 
range; put it back on the fire to cook for a few moments, suppress the vanilla if for ‘almond 
frangipane, and mix in four ounces of pounded almonds and four ounces of nut butter. \ _ 


(45), MOCHA CREAM (Créme Moka), 


Put into a tinned basin sixteen egg-yolks and one pound of sugar; beat and dilute with a pint 
of very strong coffee and a pint of boiling milk. Set the basin on the fire, stir with a small whip, 
pressing it against the bottom, bring the liquid to a boil, without allowing it actually to boil, then 
remove from off the fire, let stand till cold. Put sixteen ounces of butter in a vessel, heat it 
lightly and work it well to a cream, then pour it into the preparation and stir the whole vigorously 
with a whip. 


(46), PASTRY CREAM WITH VANILLA (Créme Patissiére 4 la Vanille), 


Place ten egg-yolks in a tinned basin, adding half a pound of sugar and an ounce of fecula or 
corn starch; mix the ingredients well together and dilute with a quart of boiling milk, having had 
half a vanilla stick infused therein. Stand it on the fire and stir continually until it thickens and 
is ready to boil, then pour into a vessel to use when needed. 


(47), PISTACHIO OR HAZEL-NUT CREAM (Oréme aux Pistaches ou aux Noisettes), 
Place eight egg-yolks in a bowl with one pound of sugar, beat well together and dilute with a 
pint of boiling milk; thicken this cream on the fire without allowing it to boil and as soon as it is 
cooked, take it off and add half a pound of pistachios pounded with orange flower water, vegetal 
green and kirsch, or else half a pound of roasted hazel-nuts pounded with a little water and mara- 
schino. Incorporate some cream into either of these when nearly cold; also a pound of very good, 


fresh, unsalted butter; allow to cool. 


(48), QUILLET CREAM (Créme & la Quillet), 


Pour one pint of thirty-two degrees hot syrup into a small tin basin, adding sixteen egg-yolks, 
one vanilla bean and two gills of orgeat syrup; set the basin on the fire and stir continuously until 
the preparation almost comes to a boil, then take it off and when it has lost its greatest heat, 
incorporate in with a whip one pound of unsalted butter of the very finest quality procurable, 


dividing it into small pats. 


(49), ST. HONORE OREAM (Oréme St. Honoré). 


Into a saucepan put ten egg-yolks and half a pound of sugar, one ounce of common flour and 
one ounce of rice flour; dilute with a pint of boiling milk into which half a vanilla stick has been 
infused. Put the saucepan on the fire and stir incessantly till the ingredients become consistent 
and are about to boil, then suppress the vanilla. Have twelve egg-whites already beaten to a stiff 
froth, incorporate them into the cream, beating it briskly with a spoon. 


184 THE EPICUREAN.. 































(50). WHIPPED OREAM OR CHANTILLY CREAM (Créme Fouettée ou Créme la Chantilly, : . 


To obtain the very best result the cream must be the finest procurable and exceedingly thick, 3 
Pour it into a tinned basin, beat it with a tinned wire whip and if the cream be good it will rise in 
a few moments to a thick froth; should it be needed for meringue, after whipping it thoroughly 
add half a pound of powdered sugar for each quart of the unwhipped cream. For mousselines, 
after the cream is firmly whipped and not sweetened lay it on a hair sieve and leave it drain for 
one hour before using. After the cream is whipped it can be flavored by adding a tablespoonful _ 
of essence of coffee or one ounce of grated and sifted chocolate for every quart of cream. To 
flavor with vanilla add to the sugar oue tablespoonful of vanilla sugar. 


(51), T0 PREPARE OROUTONS FOR SOUPS, ROASTS, VEGETABLES, EGGS, ETO, (Pour _ 
les Orotitons Pour les Soupes, Rotis, Légumes, Gufs, etc,), ie 


Cut the erofitons from the crumb of a stale loaf of bread; for entrées cut them half hears 7 
shaped, three inches long by two and a half wide, and a quarter of an inch thick (see Fig. 40.); 
fry them in butter, and as soon as one side is browned, turn them over, __ 
and repeat until they have attained a fine color on both sides. ; ES 

For Vegetables, Scrambled Eggs, Spinach, Chiccory, ete.—Cut them __ 
triangle shaped, one and a quarter inches on the sides, by one quarter of 
an inch thick; fry them in butter, browning them nicely on both sides. 

For Soups.—Serve crofitons three-sixteenths to four- 
sixteenths square or round shaped, three quarters of an inch 
in diameter, by one-eighth in thickness; either of these 
must be fried a fine color in butter, but do not allow them 
to get too dry. In order to obtain fine crottons, they must 
be fried in clarified butter, lard or oil, and in a sautoir, | 


but not in the frying fat. 


. Fig. 41. 
For Roast Game, Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse and : 


Quail, have oblong shaped crotitons; trim the edges and then cut off a 
quarter of an inch of the four corners; pass the knife all around the crotitons 
a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry and cut away the centers, scoop - | 
Fic. 40. out the crumb from this space, and lay them under the game; reed-birds 
or larks must be laid on oblong crofitons sufficiently long to hold twoor 
more birds, but do not scoop these out. a 





For Snipe, Woodcock or Plovers, have wider, oblong aii (Fig. 41); dig out the crumb in 
the center to hold the bird and scoop out smaller hollows on eaeh side, which should be garnished 
with a forcemeat, made of chopped up chicken livers and shallots, fried in scraped lard; mix some 
fine herbs with the livers. Epicures sometimes have the chopped intestines added to the force- 
meat. 


(52), TO PREPARE HOLLOW CRUSTS (Pour Préparer les Crotites Creuses), 


Hollowed out crusts are used for serving small garnishings composed of purées, game fillets, 
and also boned small birds, such as larks and reed-birds; they are also employed to serve with 
poached eggs, after filling the hollow space with some eae Hollow crusts are made of 
bread crumb, timbale paste or puff paste. 





Fia. 44. Fic. 44a. 


Bread Crumb Crusts are cut oval and half heart shaped (Figs. 42 and 48); they are two inches 
long and three quarters of an inch thick; make incisions on one side near the edge, using for this 


asmall knife; brown both sides in a sautoir with clarified butter, then drain them to open and 
scoop out the crumb. 


Crusts made of Timbale Paste are formed from an oval layer of paste, three-sixteenths of an 
inch thick; they are shaped in unbuttered tin rings, half an inch high, either oval or round, plain 
or channelled (Figs. 44 and 44a); the paste is cut flush with the top of the ring, the ring is now 
removed and the outside edge of the paste is pinched prettily, the top also to form the crest; let 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 185 


dry for a few minutes; they are now to be placed in larger buttered rings, or surrounded with 
bands of buttered paper to support the paste while cooking; line the inside with buttered paper 
and fill with raw rice; cook in a moderate oven; when done remove from the 
rings, empty out the rice, brush the crusts with an egg-wash and put in the 





oven to color nicely. } i : 
- To Make Puff Paste Crusts Plain or with Fluted Cutter.—Cut the paste si 
round or oval shaped in any desired size, arrange them on a moist baking Fia. 45. 


sheet, a short distance apart, and prick them; moisten the edges with a brush 

and apply around this a band of the same paste three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness by five- 
sixteenths of an inch in width; fasten the ends of the band together, egg the surface and bake 
these crusts in a moderate oven the same as small bouchées. 


(53). EGGING AND MOISTENING (Dorer et Mouiller), 


Egging With Whole Eggs.—Beat the eggs with half as much water and run them through 
a sieve. 


Fgg-yolks Alone.—Stir the yolks with the same volume of water and strain. 
With Milk.—Mix as much milk as yolks, beat well together and strain. 


Moistening.—Moisten lightly with water, baking sheets or else flats of paste on which another 
is to be laid in order to fasten the two together. 
For both egging and moistening use a feather or a very soft hair brush (Fig. 184). 


(54), TO BEAT UP THE WHITE OF EGGS (Pour Fouetter les Blancs d’Gufs), 


Although the eggs intended for beating up the white 
should be perfectly fresh, still they must not be newly 
laid, for when these are used they are liable to become a 
greenish color, while baking. Procure an egg-beater or 
a whip made for this purpose, and a small untinned basin, 
separate most carefully the yolks from the whites, and 
put these into the basin with a very little salt, then begin 
to whip, slowly at the beginning but proceed gradually to 
increase the velocity of the motion as the volume increases 
so as to allow them to absorb all the air possible, which 
gives them their consistency. Should the whites threaten 
to turn, they must be whipped again until smooth, adding to them a handful of powdered sugar 
or a few drops of citric acid. 





Fic. 46. 


(55). FAT PREPARED FOR FRYING (Graisse Préparée Pour la Friture). 


The preference is generally given to beef kidney suet; cut it in half inch pieces and place 
these in an untinned iron pan with one gill of water for every pound. of fat; cook on a slow fire 
stirring carefully from time to time so that it cannot adhere to the bottom. When very clear and 
it ceases to froth it is a sign that it is done, then strain through a sieve or cloth. 


(56), FAT FOR SOCLES AND FLOWERS (Graisse Pour Socles et pour Fleurs), 


Fat for Socles.—Remove the skin and all the membranes from twenty pounds of mutton 
kidney suet, cut it up in half inch squares, and put this grease into twenty-five quarts of cold 
water with one pound of carbonate of soda, wash well the fat, change the water frequently, 
drain, then melt it on a slow fire, being careful to stir it so that it does not adhere to the bottom 
of the pan, nor brown in the slightest, add to it eight ounces of Siam benzoin and as soon as it is 
thoroughly rendered out, mix in the same quantity of lard, strain through a fine towel, and put it 
aside to cool slightly; then add a little ultra-marine blue. Stir with a whisk until cool, and 
having body enough to be worked; fasten a mandrel on a round or oval board, begin workirg at 
the bottom of the foundation with a profile, previously soaked in cold water and kept wet, and 
when the base is very firm, continue coating the mandrel with the fat, and profiling it until the 
whole socle is finished. Decorate with natural or grease flowers as below forming a wreath 
around the top of the mandrel, or if preferred festoon it, leaving a few inches of the decoration 


fall in scallops gracefully around. 


186 oi PRE ERPLICOUREAN? 


To Make Grease Flowers.—Have half as much fat prepared for socles as virgin wax, melting Be ‘ 
both together; color them in various colors while the fat is still hot and place in vessels keeping __ 
each color separate; have for instance: white, pink, red, green, brown, etc., let cool. Twelve ha 


hours later unmold the fat on toa wet napkin and scrape into fine shavings with a strong 


knife, then gather all of these in a damp cloth so as to soften and have it get smooth by 1 ; 


kneading it till it becomes ductile as clay; roll into small balls and place these between two wet 
cloths; rub the top of each ball with a piece of smooth ice until it is very thin so that it resembles — 
the petal of a real flower for example, to make a rose arrange some pink fat around a small stick 
to imitate the center of the flower, fasten on the petals all around as quickly as they are 
prepared and when there are sufficient, pull out the stick and begin another until enough flowers — 
are obtained. Fasten them on to the upper border of a socle. This same grease can be used. 
for modeling. 


(57), TO SCALE AND OLEAN’ FISH; TO SKIN EELS (Pour Ecailler le Poisson, le Nettoyer et 
a ee ase - Dépouiller les Anguilles), — Ve <8 


For English Soles.—Remove the black skin, starting at the tail with a knife, then pulling it 
off. If trout be required: for boiling, they must: be cooked: with the scales on. German’ carp 
should not-be scaled./°.- 7°) tee Mate Ten | } 3 aan 

For Salmon, Turbot, Bass or Mullets.—Scrape the outside with a strong knife in order to 
remove the scales. All fish must be emptied either by the gills or by an opening made in the 
belly; cut away the fins with a pair of strong scissors. iat 3 

To Skin Eels.—They must be hung up by the head on a hook, remove a little piece of the 
skin all around below the fins so as to be able to catch hold of it, then grasp it with a cloth, and 
pull it down the whole length of the body, turning it inside out. Shave the spinal bone with a 
sharp knife, and in a contrary direction from the bone, or else the entire bone may be removed by 
detaching it from the flesh, beginning at the extreme thin end of the tail, and pulling it out 
entirely, the same for the ventral. 


(58). FONDANT (Fondant), 

Put into a small untinned copper basin two pounds of loaf sugar, moisten it with sufficient 
water to melt it, about one pint, and put the basin on a good fire to bring the sugar to a boil; skim 
it carefully and so long as the impurities rise to the surface and continue boiling till the sugar is 
cooked to the degree of ball; then pour it on to a marble table or slab and keep it in position by 
four bars of iron, an inch square, and the length needed; when it is thoroughly cold work it with a 
spatula until it becomes a white and creamy paste; set it in an earthen vessel, and keep it in a 
cool place to use when needed. This fondant can be flavored and colored according to taste. 


(59), FORCEMEATS; REMARKS ON (Observations sur les Farces), 


Forcemeats are indispensable for performing fine work and are liked by good livers; 
they are principally used for hors-d’@uvre, garnishings, removes and entrées; for stuffing breasts 
or shoulders of veal, poultry, game and fish. They are also necessary to form borders, for holding 
the garnishing and for large timbales; they must always be prepared in advance with the very — 
freshest meats, otherwise they are likely to be of little good and liable to spoil, this being of the 
greatest importance to observe, and be sure to keep them on ice until needed. Always be careful 
when composing a menu, not to have too many dishes containing forcemeats, for they will detract 
from the simplicity and natural plainness of a dinner. 


(60), TO PREPARE AND MAKE FORCEMEATS AND TO REOTIFY THEM (Pour Préparer et Faire 
les Farces et les Rectifier), 





Fic. 47. Fig. 48. 


7 Chicken.—Use only the lean and well pared meats of poultry or game, some panada, fresh 
butter, or cooked and cold veal udder, raw egg-yolks or else the whites, or sometimes whole eggs, 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 187 


salt and spices, also cold sauces or else raw cream. Pass the meat once or twice through a 
machine to remove the nerves (Fig. 47); afterward pound it to a pulp so it can readily pass through 
a metal sieve fitting on to the mortar (Fig. 48); pound the meat once more, then add the panada, 
the butter or udder, continuing to pound all the time, and then add the eggs singly without ceasing 
to pound and the seasonings; pass through a 
strong hair sieve. Put this into a thin tin 
vessel, set it on ice and stir for a few moments. 
with a spoon in order to have it perfectly 
smooth, keep in a cool place until needed. 


_ Game.—To make game quenelle forcemeat,, 
proceed the same as for the chicken; to have it 
delicate, use brown sauce or melted meat glaze, 
and pass the meat once more after all the 
_- Ingredients are. mixed in. For this it requires. 
a strong hair sieve, or one of fine- tinned 
wire; stand this sieve.on a round dish, slightly. 
larger than itself, so it-can receive. the. force; 
meat as it falls through; put only a small 
quantity on the sieve at the time;. press it 
forcibly with a large wooden spoon to have. 
it pass through rapidly, and when all is finished, 
place it in a tin vessel and stir it for a few 
moments with a spoon to render it smooth and 
keep it in a cool place until needed. 

































































SS 


hr 














\| 























To Rectify Forcemeats.—Try a little piece, 
formed into a half inch ball, in boiling water or 
in the oven, and if too consistent add some: 
cream or velouté, for white forcemeats, and 
espagnole or melted glaze for brown game. If 
too weak, a little pounded panada is to be added, mixing it in gradually with some egg-yolks, 
whites or whole eggs. 





(61), TO PREPARE BREAD STUFFING, AMERICAN AND ENGLISH STYLE (Pour Préparer la 
Farce au Pain a l'Américaine et a l’Anglaise), 


Bread stuffing is used to stuff poultry and game and sometimes fish. Soak in water or milk a 
quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, squeeze out all the liquid and put the bread into a saucepan; 
beat it up with a spoon and add to it a little boiled milk or broth, so as to form a paste the same. 
as for a panada, remove it from the fire and set it aside to cool, season and mix in five or six table- 
spoonfuls of chopped-up onions, either raw or cooked in butter, some chopped parsley and three or- 
four raw egg-yolks. Bread stuffing may also be prepared without cooking, only mixing white. 
bread-crumbs with butter or chopped suet, raw egg-yolks, parsley and chopped onions. 


American Style.—Steep half a pound of bread-crumbs in milk and when well soaked extract 
all the liquid; put it over a slow fire in a saucepan and stir up with a spoon, to have it dry; add 
two ounces of onions, cut in dice, and fried colorless in butter, and when the stuffing is cold, add 
four ounces either of butter or beef marrow chopped fine, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, parsley, 
minced green celery leaves and four raw egg-yolks. 


English.—Have half a pound of bread-crumbs steeped in white broth and all the liquid ex- 
tracted; put it on the fire to dry, then add four ounces of beef suet well skinned and chopped up- 
fine; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and add three ounces of chopped onions fried and_ lightly 
colored, one whole egg and four raw egg-yolks. ; 


(62). OHIOKEN OR GAME FORCEMEAT WITHOUT PANADA (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier 
Sans Panade), 

Ingredients. —One pound of breast of chicken or game, rawand free of sinews; eight egg-yolks, 
half a pound of butter, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and two gills of well reduced velouté (No. 415). Pass. 
twice through the machine (Fig. 47). One pound of raw and nerveless chicken or game fillets, or 
else chop the pieces very fine and pound them to reduce to a fine paste; rub this through a round 


188 THE EPICUREAN. 


quenelle sieve (Fig. 142). Incorporate into it eight egg-yolks one by one, also half a 
pound of butter divided into small pieces; season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and add two 
gills of well reduced velouté (No. 415). Work the forcemeat well in a mortar, so that it acquires a 


good consistence; test it and if necessary to rectify (see No. 60). This forcemeat is used to make — 


either red, white or green quenelles. . 


(63), FORCEMEAT OF CHICKEN, FISH OR GAME WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND BUTTER 
(Farce de Volaille, Poisson ou Gibier avec Oréme Fouettée et Beurre), 


Pound half a pound of chicken fillets after passing them twice through the machine (Fig. 47), 
then press this pulp through a sieve and return it to the mortar to pound once more, mixing in 
with it little by little, five ounces of butter, one whole egg and four yolks, or instead of the egg 
and yolks substitute four egg-whites. Season with salt, nutmeg and red pepper, then take out 
the forcemeat and set it into a thin metal vessel; lay this on the ice, beat up the forcemeat well 
for a few minutes, incorporating slowly into it the volume of one pint of very firm, well drained 
whipped cream, one pint of cream before being whipped will produce about three pints after being 
whipped; use the same preparation for forcemeats of game and fish, increasing or decreasing the 
panada and eggs according to the consistency of the viands employed. 


(64), CHIOKEN LIVER, FINE BAKING FORCEMEAT (Farce Fine de Foies de Volaille & Gratin), 


Heat four ounces of grated lard, add to it one pound of sautéd cold chicken livers; pound well 
half a pound of bread-crumb panada (No. 121), add the livers a little at the time, pounding con- 
tinually, fry in butter one tablespoonful of shallots, adding to them two tablespoonfuls of mush- 
rooms, half a tablespoonful of truffles, both chopped, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; when 
all these ingredients have fried lightly add to them two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414); let get 
slightly cold, then stir in one whole egg and three yolks; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add 
the chicken livers, rub all forcibly through a sieve and mix this preparation with one pottd of 
quenelle forcemeat. 


(65), CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR CHICKEN GALANTINES (Farce Hachis pour Galantines de 
Volaille), 


To prepare chopped farces or sausage-meat only lean meats without any skin or nerves are to 
be used, and fresh fat pork. Chop up both meat and pork and in some special cases they require 
to be pounded after being chopped. 

Farce or chopped meats for galantines of poultry is prepared with one pound of chicken or 
other poultry meat, and one pound of fat pork. The chicken may be replaced by lean veal, or 
half pork and half veal; chop all up very fine, and season with three quarters to one ounce of 
spiced salt (No. 168); pound well for a few minutes, then add two whole eggs, and one gill of water 
or cream; chopped truffles or cooked fine herbs may also be added if desired. 


(66) CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR GAME GALANTINES (Farce Hachis pour Galantines de 
Gibier), 
This is prepared with half game meat, either from the shoulder or thighs of hare or young 
rabbits, or the thighs of partridges or pheasants, and half fat pork, having a pound of each. Sea- 
son with an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168). When it is well chopped mix in with it half a pound of 


foies gras. Strain galantine farces, but when the galantine farces of game or poultry are well 
chopped this is rarely required. 


(67), CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR GAME PIE (Farce Hachis pour Paté de Gibier). 


Prepare a pound of lean veal or pork forcemeat without nerves or skin, a pound of fat pork, 
and season with salt, white pepper and red pepper; mince finely one ounce of onions and two 
ounces of carrots; fry them both in butter with thyme and bayleaf, adding the parings and 
carcasses of some game; moisten with a pint of white wine, and reduce till dry, then moisten once 
more with a pint of broth and reduce again till dry; now take out the bones, thyme and bayleaf, 


and pound up all the meat as well as the vegetables; rub this through a sieve and mix it in 
with the faree 








ELEMENTARY METHODS. 189 


(68). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR ORDINARY SAUSAGES (Farce Hachis pour Saucisses 


Ordinaires), 


Prepare a pound of lean, nerveless pork-meat and a pound of fat from the pig’s throat; chop 
them up very fine, and season with three-quarters of an ounce of salt, black pepper and red pepper; 
when thoroughly chopped and a compact paste is formed, then mix in half a gill of water. 

Another Way.—Remove the sinews from four pounds of lean fresh pork, taken from the 
shoulder or neck; add the same weight of not too mellow fat, from under the chine; chop together, 
season with a third of an ounce of salt for each pound, black pepper and red pepper to taste. 


(69), CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR COUNTRY SAUSAGES WITH SAGE (Farce Hachis pour 
Saucisses de Campagne & la Sauge), 


Have three pounds of corn-fed lean pork, free of all its sinews, and one pound of fat pork; cut 
them both into inch squares, then chop them up finely together, and season with an ounce of salt 
and a teaspoonful of ground black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of powdered sage, the sixth part 
of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a bit of powdered saltpetre and a gill of water. Work well 
together so as to mix thoroughly. 


(70). COOKED CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WITH CHESTNUTS AND WITH CHESTNUTS AND 
TRUFFLES (Farce Hachis Cuite aux Marrons et aux Marrons et Truffes), 


For each pound of forcemeat, chop up one medium shallot; fry it colorless in butter, then add 
to it one pound of chopped ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68); let it cook for a few minutes, and add 
four ounces of chopped chicken liver for every pound of the sausage-meat; season with pepper, salt 
and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes longer, then add some chopped parsley and two pounds 
of cooked whole chestnuts. 

With Chestnuts and Truffles. —Mix one-half truffles and one-half chestnuts with this forcemeat. 


(71), CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WITH TRUFFLES (Farce Hachis aux Truffes), 


Add to the chopped forcemeat for ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68), one-half pound of raw or 
preserved black truffles cut in slices, and mix in also half a gill of Madeira wine for every pound 
of sausage-meat. In winter the truffles may be added two or three days in advance, not in summer, 
as they are liable to mold. 


(72), CODFISH FOROEMEAT FOR STUFFING FISH (Farce de Morue Fraiche Pour Farcir les 
Poissons), 


Chop up finely one pound of codfish free of bone and skin. Break three eggs in a saucepan, 
season with salt and pepper and add one gill of cream and a teaspoonful of butter, cook on the 
fire stirring the same as for scrambled eggs, let this cool, have also two ounces of bread crumbs 
soaked in milk and well squeezed. Put four ounces of butter in a sautoire with two finely chopped 
shallots, fry without coloring, then add the fish, four ounces of mushrooms and an ounce of truffles 
both to be finely chopped; season with half an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168), and into ic stir the 
scrambled eggs and the bread crumbs. Cover the saucepan and cook in the oven for an hour, 
after removing beat in a spoonful of chopped parsley and four raw egg-yolks. This preparation can 
also be used for rissoles and coulibiacs. 


(73). COOKED AND RAW GAME OR CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR LINING CASES FOR 
SWEETBREADS, CHICKEN, ETO. (Farce Cuite et Crue de Gibier ou de Volaille pour 
Garnir les Caisses de Ris de Veau, de Volaille, etc,), 


Have one pound of raw chicken or game fillets cut in dice, fry them in four ounces of butter, 
seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes, then set away to cool. 
Begin by pounding the meat, then add gradually to it eight ounces of butter, or calf’s udder in 
small bits, and remove the whole from the mortar. Pound ten ounces of flour and milk panada, 
(No. 121), add to it eight egg-yolks one by one, and then the cooked meat, and continue ogee, 
for ten minutes longer; rub all through a fine sieve, and mix to this forcemeat one pound of : ce 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); either of chicken or game. Poach one of the quenelles and a yi 
necessary as explained (No. 60); four spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs may be added to this force- 


meat. 


190 THE EPICUREAN. 


(74), (REAM CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH BECHAMEL AND MUSHROOM PUREE (Farce de 3 
Volaille & la Créme & la Béchamel et Purée de Champignons), a 


For this forcemeat obtain one pound of chicken or game meat without any nerves or skin, pass 
this twice through the machine (Fig. 47), or else chop it up and pound to pulp; season with salt, 
red pepper and nutmeg, and mix in with one egg-white and two gills of cream béchamel (No. 411), 
and two gills of mushroom purée. For the purée of mushrooms, chop up one pound of peeled 
fresh mushrooms, cook them in butter till they have rendered all their moisture, then season and 
pound them with a third of their quantity of good béchamel reduced and thickened. When cold 
mix the mushrooms in gradually with the forcemeat in the mortar, rub all through a fine sieve, 
and try it to see whether it be too solid, if so, add some sweet cream by working it in with a whip, 
so as to have it consistent and smooth. 


(75), CHICKEN OR GAME CREAM FORCEMEAT (Farce 4 la Créme de Volaille ou de Gibier), 
Have one pound of chicken or game meat (the breast), free of nerves or skin, pass them twice 
through the machine (Fig. 47); or else chop and pound to a pulp, then press through a sieve, 
return to the mortar and mix in one egg-white, half an ounce of salt, red pepper and nutmeg, the 
equal quantity of six or eight gills of cream, before whipping; mixing it in gradually with a whip 
and working it well. Should the forcemeat be too thick add cream, and if it lacks consistency, 
more egg-white. 


(76). CREAM FORCEMEAT OF FISH (Farce de Poisson 4 la Oréme), 


Take one pound of boned and skinned bass or any other firm fish; pound and rub it through a 
fine sieve; return it to the mortar, season with an ounce of salt, some nutmeg and red pepper and 
mix in while still stirring with a whip, two egg-whites and from six to eight gills of cream, meas- 
ured before whipping; pass the whole through a very fine sieve. Try a small piece in order to 
rectify if not correct, and if found to be too firm add more cream, and if too soft some more egg- 
whites. 


(77), BAKED FISH FORCEMEAT (Farce 4 Gratin pour Poisson), 


Put six ounces of butter into a sautoire and when hot add half a pound of finely chopped 
mushrooms and two ounces of chopped truffle parings. After the mushrooms have rendered their 
moisture, add one pound of cooked firm fish broken into fragments; as the whole becomes hot, re- 
move it from the fire, cool partly, then add five egg-yolks and five whole eggs, seasoning with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; pass it through a medium sized sieve (Fig. 98), return to the vessel and beat 
it well with a spoon, incorporating in two spoonfuls of tomato purée, strained through a fine sieve 
(Fig. 100) and half a pound of raw fish quenelle forcemeat. 


(78). FOIES GRAS FORCEMEAT (Farce de Foies Gras), 


Pound half a pound of frangipane panada (No. 120) with six ounces of butter and half a pound 
of raw and very white fat livers; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and when the whole is well 
pounded, strain through a sieve, then add six raw egg-yolks and two well beaten whites while con- 
tinuing to work the forcemeat. 


(79). CHICKEN OR GAME FORCEMEAT WITH RICE FOR BORDERS, BOTTOMS OF DISHES 
AND SURTOUTS (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier au Riz pour Bordures, Fonds de Plats et 
Surtouts), | 

Prepare and unnerve one pound either of chicken or game; pass it twice through the machine 

(Fig. 47) to suppress all the nerves and pound it to a pulp, take it from the mortar. Put eight 

ounces of pate 4 choux, cream panada (No. 121) into the mortar, pound it thoroughly with the same 

weight of cooked veal udder, add the game or chicken meat, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 

two gills of well reduced cold velouté (No. 415), six egg-whites and a little cream, then add half a 

pound of well picked, washed and blanched rice, cooked in white broth and cooled. Mix to- 

gether and keep it in a cool place. This forcemeat is used for borders, surtouts and dish bottoms. 


(80), FOIES-GRAS AND CHIOKEN FORCEMEAT FOR BORDERS, BOTTOMS OF DISHES AND 
SURTOUTS (Farce de Foies-Gras et de Volaille pour Bordures, Fonds de Plat et Surtouts), 


Pound well one pound of raw fat livers; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then add eight 
egg-yolks, one at a time, continuing to pound the forcemeat; put in three pounds of chicken 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 191 


quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and when all is well blended stand it on ice to use as needed. Forcemeat 
borders are made in special molds of a crown form, lightly hollowed on top, an inch and a half to 
two inches high. The bottoms of dishes and the surtouts are not as high, being only one inch gen- 
erally and two inches in diameter narrower than the basin of the dish. 


(81), BAKING FORCEMEAT FOR ORDINARY USE (Farce a Gratin Ordinaire), 


Fry in four ounces of melted lard, one bayleaf, two ounces of carrots and two ounces of celery, 
both cut in dice, one shallot and two ounces of onions, both finely chopped, also one ounce of 
truffles, the same of mushrooms and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley; add its equal quantity 
of calf’s liver and two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414). When the’ meats are cooked, let the prep- 
aration first get cold, then pound and rub it through a sieve; lay this forcemeat into a bowl, cover 
it with buttered paper and keep it in a cool place; mix with this three tablespoonfuls of raw 
quenelle forcemeat, either of veal, chicken or game, in order to thicken it, but only just when 
ready touse. The liver may be replaced by the same quantity of cooked or raw meat, either | 
lamk, veal, chicken or game chopped up very fine and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 


(82). CHICKEN GODIVEAU (Godiveau de Volaille), 


One pound of the white meat from a tender young chicken; three quarters of a pound of dry, 
brittie beef kidney suet, without skin or fibres; three quarters of an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168) 
two whole eggs; three quarters of a pound of cream panada, (No. 120); moisten and finish exactly 
the same as the veal godiveau (No. 85). 


(83), GODIVEAU OF PIKE (Godiveau de Brochet). 


A pound of skinless and boneless pike meat, chopped and pounded fine; two pounds of dry and 
brittle beef kidney suet free of fat and nerves, also chopped up fine; mix the two together, 
chop once more and season with an ounce of spiced salt; pound to a pulp to obtain a fine paste, 
and incorporate into it gradually, one pound and a half of cream panada (No. 120), and after- 
ward twelve beaten up egg-whites. Try the forcemeat to see whether it be too hard, if so add 
some cream, and if too soft, more egg-whites. 


(84), GODIVEAU OF RABBIT OR OTHER GAME (Godiveau de Lapereau ou Autres Gibiers), 


Take one pound of rabbit meat or any other game, one pound of dry, brittle beef kidney suet 
without skin or fibres, one ounce of spiced salt (general spices, No. 168), six eggs and four ounces 
of pate a choux panada (No. 121). Moisten and finish the same as the veal godiveau (No. 85). 


(85). VEAL GODIVEAU (Godiveau de Veau), 


Veal godiveau frequently takes the place of forcemeat and is excellent if well prepared. 

Have a pound of fresh veal meat cut off from the kernel without any fat or nerves what- 
ever; cut it up into inch pieces, and pass them twice through the machine (Fig. 47), or in 
case there be no machine, chop them up very finely. Have also a pound and a quarter of beef 
kidney suet, perfectly dry and brittle, remove all its skin and fibres, and chop it up very finely, 
Seasoning with one ounce of general spices (No. 168). Pound well the veal, add to it the suet, 
and pound all together to a pulp, so as to form a smooth paste, then stir in four whole eggs singly, 
as well as four ounces of frangipane panada (No. 120), in small quantities at the time. After the 
godiveau is well pounded, put it away for two hours in a cool place, then pound it over again, 
moistening it gradually with ice-water or else small pieces of very clear and clean ice. When 
the godiveau becomes sufficiently soft, try its consistency, by poaching a quenelle of it in boiling 
water, and if found to be too firm, add a little more ice-water, but if not sufficiently consistent, 
pound one ounce more panada with one egg, and incorporate the farce slowly to the panada, 


or even the egg alone will answer. 


(86), CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Volaille pour Mousselines), 


Ingredients.—One pound of chicken breast-meat, one egg-white, two gills of béchamel, four 
tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat, and the value of one quart of whipped cream. 

Have one pound of chicken breast-meat free of nerves; pass it twice through the machine 
(Fig. 47), pound it to a pulp and rub through a sieve, season with half an ounce of salt, red pepper 
and nutmeg, and incorporate gradually into it one egg-white and two gills of béchamel (No. 409). 





192 | THE EPICUREAN. 





Strain all this through a sieve, and put it in a metal vessel on the ice for fifteen minutes, then work — 
it well with a whip, incorporating gradually into it four tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat (No. 74) 
and the value of a quart of whipped cream thoroughly drained. Try a little of itin a mold and 
if too consistent add a little more of the whipped cream. 


(87), GAME FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Gibier pour Mousselines), 


Take one pound of the breast-meat of some raw game suppressing the skin and nerves, pound 
and pass it through a sieve. Place this purée in a tin vessel and mix in one egg-white 
slowly working it gradually so that it attains body, then incorporate, always slowly, two or three 
gills of raw cream without once ceasing to mix the preparation. When mellow add four or five 
tablespoonfuls of purée of cooked foies gras, pounded and pressed through a sieve, season, and 
when very smooth poach a small piece in a small timbale in a bain-marie so to judge of its con- 
sistency; it must be firm, although mellow; if found necessary add a few egg-yolks. 


(88), SALMON FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Saumon pour Mousselines), 


One pound of pared fish pounded and seasoned with half an ounce of salt, cayenne pepper 
and nutmeg, then rub through the sieve the same as the cream chicken forcemeat. Return it to 
the mortar and work into it one raw egg-white, half a pint of béchamel (No. 409) and two table- 
spoonfuls of cream forcemeat (No. 76). Put it on to the ice, work vigorously and when very cold 
incorporate gradually into it equal quantity of well drained whipped cream. Serve this in tim- 
bales as hors-d’ceuvre or garnishing. 


(89), CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT, WITH SOUBISE OR TOMATO (Farce & ge de 


-Volaille, Soubisée ou Tomatée), 


Ingredients for these Quenelles.—One pound of chicken, half a pound of pate a chou panada 
(No. 121); a quarter of a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt and nutmeg, six egg-yolks, one 
whole egg, one pint of chicken cream forcemeat. In order to make chicken or game forcemeats 
only the breasts are used, having them well pared, cut in pieces and pass through the machine 
(Fig. 47). Put this into a mortar, and pound it to a pulp, rub it through a sieve, pound it once 
more, and add to it the panada, putting it in gradually, then the butter or udder, without 
stopping the pounding process, and afterward the egg-yolks one by one, seasou with salt and 
nutmeg, rub the forcemeat again through the sieve, and then lay it in a thin metal vessel on the 
ice, and beat it up again for a few minutes so as to render it smooth. Poach a small piece of it, 
and if found to be too consistent, then thin it with a little cold sauce or raw cream, and keep 
it in a cool place until needed. Instead of using velouté or cream, one pint of chicken cream 
forcemeat (No. 75), may be added, made of chicken, egg-whites and cream. Quenelle forcemeats 
made of chicken can be used with soubise or tomatoes by mixing in either some soubise (No. vee). 
or fine consistent tomato purée (No. 730), instead of the cream or velouté. 


(90) FISH QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce & Quenelle de Poisson), 


Fish forcemeats are prepared with the raw meats of either pike, bass or sheepshead, increasing 
the weight with panada for those fishes requiring more consistence, such as cod, ete. Any fish 
lacking body, such as whiting, etc., can be mixed with sheepshead, bass or others. Pike meat is 
renowned as having plenty of consistence and is easy to procure. Prepare one pound of pike 
meat free of bones and skin, pound it well and when reduced to a paste take it out of the mortar. 
Pound one pound of cream panada (No. 120), with eight ounces of lobster butter, add the pike 
meat, pound again all together, then mix in slowly six raw egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg, sweet peppers 
and Hungarian paprika pepper; press the forcemeat through a sieve and put it in a thin metal 
vessel on ice, beat it well to have it smooth. Poach a small piece to try its consistencé and rectify 
if needed, either by adding cream or panada, mixing the farce to the latter, a little at the time. 
To this forcemeat is frequently added some tomatoed soubise or mushroom purée and if Ee to 
be very light beat in two well whipped egg-whites. 


(91), GAME QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce & Quenelle de Gibier). 


Ingredients.—One pound of game, half a pound of calf’s udder, half a pound of bread-crumbs 
soaked in hot milk, salt, red pepper, nutmeg, four egg-yolks and one whole egg. 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 193. 


Pass one pound of the breast of game twice through the machine (Fig. 47), pound it to a. 
pulp and rub it through a sieve, then set it in a cool place or on the ice. Soak some bread-crumbs. 
in milk, extract from them all the liquid, let them dry and get cool; pound the bread-crumbs with 
ealf’s udder in four different parts and continue the process until all is done, then season with salt, 
red pepper and nutmeg, half an ounce in all; add to this the game pulp, and continue pounding 
for ten minutes, then mix in four egg-yolks, singly, and one whole egg. Poach one of the que- 
nelles in boiling water to discover its consistency, and if found necessary to rectify refer to No. 60. 


(92), LAMB OR VEAL QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce & Quenelle d’Agneau ou de Veau). 


Procure one pound of either lean fillet, or kernel of lamb or veal; ten ounces of cooked calf’s 
udder; four egg-yolks, two whole eggs, ten ounces of panada with flour (No. 121), three quarters 
of an ounce of salt, nutmeg and red pepper: suppress the fat and skin from the meat, cut it into 
half inch squares, put this twice through the machine (Fig. 47), then pound the meat, and when 
converted into a paste rub it forcibly through a round sieve (Fig. 142), or any other one not too 
fine; take it out of the mortar, lay in the panada, pound it fine, add to it the calf’s udder, a little 
at the time, then the seasonings and strained meat, also the egg-yolks singly, and the whole eggs; 
pound again and after the preparation is thoroughly blended, rub it through ‘a fine sieve. Set 
this forcemeat into a bowl, and stir it up a few moments with a spoon; poach one quenelle in boil- 
ing water to judge of its consistency, and if too hard, mix into it a few spoonfuls of cold velouté 
(No. 415), or raw cream; if, on the contrary, it is too thin, pound a little panada to smooth it 
down, and mix it in gradually with the forcemeat, by so doing it assumes a greater consistency. 


(93), DIFFERENT FORCEMEATS FOR RAVIOLES OF BEEF, CHICKEN AND VEAL (Différentes 
Farces pour Ravioles de Beuf, Volaille et Veau), 


For Beef.—Half a pound of cooked chopped tenderloin of beef, quarter of a pound of brains 
in small one-eighth squares, two ounces of cooked and chopped ham, two ounces of chopped 
spinach. Two ounces of grated parmesan; salt, pepper, nutmeg, three egg-yolks and two table- 
spoonfuls of cream. All these ingredients well mixed and to be used for square ravivles. 


Chicken.—Half a pound of chopped white or black poultry meat, and half a pound of chopped 
veal udder; pound well together with four egg-yolks and a gill of velouté; season with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; mix into this preparation four ounces of parmesan cheese; this is for round 
ravioles. 

Veal.—Fry two ounces of onions in four ounces of butter without allowing it to take color j. 
moisten with broth, reduce to a glaze and put in the veal, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg;, 
add four egg-yolks and chopped parsley. Make triangular shaped ravioles with this. 


(94), TO PREPARE GELATINE FROM CALF’S FEET (Pour Préparer la Colle de Pieds de Veau).. 


Calf’s feet gelatine is more especially used for preparing jelly and gelatineous sweet dishes.. 
Soak seven or eight very fresh calve’s feet, split in two, having the bones all extracted, put them 
into a small soup-pot with water and let the liquid boil for ten minutes; then drain it off, also the 
feet; cool these off and return them to the clean soup-pot with two spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of 
four lemons, and half a bottleful of white wine. Cover with water, then heat the liquid while skim- 
ming, and at the first boil set it on the stove to obtain a regular and continuous ebullition for four to 
five hours, strain the liquid into a bowl and let it get very cold. When the gelatine is firm, remove 
all the fat from the top, then wash the surface with warm water so that not a vestige of grease re- 
mains. Lift out the jelly without disturbing the sediment at the bottom of the bowl, and put it 
back, either all or part into a saucepan to melt. 

For one quart of gelatine, mix in three quarters of a pound of broken sugar and the juice of 
four lemons; when the sugar is dissolved, test the consistency so as to rectify it if necessary, by 
adding either more water or more gelatine, according to its strength or weakness. Beat four egg- 
whites without getting them frothy, put these into one gill of cold water and pour it over the dis- 
solved gelatine, place the saucepan on a moderate fire, beat the liquid slowly till it is about reaching 
boiling point, then remove the saucepan to a slower fire, so that the liquid quivers, but does not 
boil: now add the juice of four lemons, cover the saucepan and keep it near the boiling point for 
thirty minutes, the gelatine should now be limpid. Filter it through a bag or strain it through @ 
napkin fastened to the four feet of a filtering stool (Fig. 51) and pour it back into the filter 
until it becomes perfectly clear; this operation must be performed in a very warm place. 





194 | . THE, EPICUREAN. 


(95), TO PREPARE PIG’S SKIN GELATINE (Pour Préparer la Colle de Couenne), 


Soak in cold water for five or six hours, six pounds of fresh pork skin; put it into a saucepan 
with cold water to double its height, and blanch it in this water until it boils, then drain and re- 
fresh it; scrape off the pieces one by one, wash them well, and return them to the saucepan with 
more clean, cold water and boil the liquid while skimming it; set it on one side of the range or on 
the gas stove, and add half a bottleful of white wine, then continue boiling for seven hours, skim- 
ming it frequently. Pass the liquid through a sieve into a basin, let it get cold and firm on ice, 
then remove all the fat from the top and wash the surface off with very hot water; melt it once 
more to mix it in with the necessary broth and clarify it with meat and eggs or white of eggs, pro- 
ceeding the same as for aspic-jelly (No. 103). 


(96), GHERKINS (Cornichons), 


Cut off the stalks and ends from small gherkin cucumbers; put a few handfals in a coarse 
towel or bag, with a heavy handful of kitchen salt, shake them in this bag to cleanse well and re- 
move all the outer roughness and then toss them on a large sieve to free them of the salt; 
range in a barrel, pour over a brine made with sufficient salt to float an egg or a potato on its sur- 
face, cover, and on top lay a heavy weight to keep them under water; leave them so for 
six days. Now drain off the brine and return to the barrel more fresh brine, it containing as 
much salt as the first one; put back both cover and weight to keep them submerged under the 
liquid and leave stand in a cool place. After a short time a scum will form on the surface; this 
must in no ways be disturbed until the gherkins are needed, for it acts as a protector, preventing 
any air from penetrating into the liquid. When the gherkins are wanted for use, take them from 
the brine; unsalt by putting them in fresh water for twelve hours. Pour half water and half vine- 
gar in an untinned copper basin, throw into it a small bagful of spices, such as cloves, peppers, 
mustard seeds and mace. Place on the fire and at the first boil, plunge in the well drained gher- 
kins and leave to bubble for a few moments, then remove the basin from the fire and put both 
gherkins and vinegar into a large jar or barrel to cool off; put in with them a handful of tarragon, 
some small blanched onions and shallots and a few red peppers; stand this in a well aired place for 
a few days and the gherkins will be then ready for use. 


(97), GRATED PARMESAN AND SWISS CHEESE (Fromage Parmesan et Fromage de Gruyére rapé). 


Cut off all the rind from the cheese, leaving no black part on whatever; grate by rubbing the 
cheese against a sufficiently coarse grater (Fig. 177) until it is all consumed; keep in a cool but not 
too damp place. 


(98). GRATED HORSERADISH AND HORSERADISH RIBBONS (Raifort Rapé et en Rubans), — 


Grated horseradish should be made of clean, fresh horseradish root, peeled or scraped, washed 
and dried, then rubbed against a large grater; it can either be served fresh or put into a stone jar 
with salt and vinegar, corking it well to preserve till needed. For horseradish ribbons, peel 
the root the same as for grating, and scrape it with the sharp blade of a knife, held at an angle 
from the top to the bottom; by this method fine ribbons of the root are obtained; let them be as 
long as it is possible to have them. Long horseradish should be used for this purpose. 


(99), COOKED CHOCOLATE IOING (Glace Cuite au Chocolat), 


Put into a sugar-pan a quarter of a pound of unsweetened chocolate; let it soften at the oven 
door, and dilute it with two gills of warm syrup at sixteen degrees, or simply with water, then add 
to the liquid some icing sugar, so as to obtain a smooth preparation neither too soft nor too thin. 


(100), COOKED COCOA ICING (Glace Cuite au Cacao), 


Dissolve a quarter of a pound of cocoa or unsweetened chocolate ina sugar-pan; cook three 
quarters of a pound of sugar in another pan with one pint of water till it reaches the degree of 
small thread, mash the cocoa with a spoon, dilute it gradually with the cooked sugar, then cook 
all together until it reaches small thread again; remove it from the fire, rub it against the sides of — 
the pan with a spoon in order to mass it well; this icing is used to ice Genoese, éclairs and a variety 
of small cakes. 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 195. 


(101), ROYAL ICING, AND ROYAL ICING FLAVORED WITH ZESTS (Glace Royale et Glace Royale 
Parfumée aux Zestes,) 


Royal Icing.—Put into a vessel the whites of one or several eggs (those not too fresh are pref- 
erable), and add to them some icing sugar, sifted through a very fine sieve, sufficient to have 
the eggs and sugar combined; form into a running paste, add several drops, either of 
lemon juice or acetic acid, according to the quantity of icing. With a wooden spatula 
beat up slowly to begin, then continue the action more briskly, always turning it in such a way that 
the air may enter, which helps to make the icing lighter and firmer. Beat it until the spoon, being 
lifted from the icing, it stands on it upright, without falling off. This royal icing is excellent for 
decorating pieces, cakes, etc., but for flowers or decorations to be made entirely of royal icing, then 
after beating, add more icing sugar, but do not get it too hard. Royal icing can be made any color 
by using vegetable colors. 


Royal Icing flavored with Zests.—Put into a basin, half a pound of sugar, add a few spoonfuls 
of sugar flavored either with orange or lemon zest, adding gradually sufficient white of egg to 
allow it to flow; this icing is used for covering cakes. 


(102), ICING WITH SYRUP FOR OAKES FLAVORED WITH VANILLA, ORANGE, LEMON OR 
FRUIT JUICES (Glace au Sirop pour Gateaux Parfumée soit 4 la Vanille, & Orange, au 
Citron ou au Jus de Fruits), 


Put one pint of water and a pound of sugar in a saucepan, adding half a vanilla bean or else 
some orange or lemon peel; stand it on the fire, let boil up a few times to obtain a syrup, then 
remove the saucepan from the range immediately, suppress the vanilla or peels and incorporate 
sufficient sugar to form a very smooth flowing paste. 

For Uncooked Fruit Juice Icing.—Prepare it with strawberry, raspberry, currant or pine- 
apple juice. Simply crush the ripe, fresh fruits, pour them on a sieve to collect all the liquid. 
Put some icing sugar in a vessel, dissolve it with a little thirty-degree syrup, and the fruit juice, 
incorporating the liquid slowly; just before using this icing warm it in an untinned copper vessel, 
stirring it during the operation. The icing sugars are colored according to taste and are used for 
icing Genoeses, pouring it over or else dipping in all kinds of small cakes, such as éclairs, ete. 


(103). TO PREPARE, CLARIFY AND FILTER ASPIC JELLY (Pour Préparer la Gelée d’Aspic, la 
Clarifier et la Filtreyr), 


Aspic or meat jelly is prepared with chicken or game broth, obtaining it as clear as possible, 
and mixing it with a certain quantity of gelatine made either with calf’s feet or pig skin, or even 
| with isinglass. Aspics are also prepared with special stocks made under the 

(i) | following conditions: brown in a saucepan half a pound of breast of veal, one 
le colored moisten them amply with some light broth, free of all fat, and add 
fee. to it four or five boned and blanched calf’s feet, also 
= | some roots and onions, a garnished bouquet, but no 
salt, boil the liquid while skimming, remove it to 
the side of the range, and finish cooking the meats, 
lifting them out as soon as they are done. Strain 
the liquid through a sieve, skim off all the fat, try 
a little of it on ice to judge of its consistency, and 
should it not be sufficiently firm, then heat it up 
once more, and stir into it a few gelatine leaves 
sie softened in cold water and dissolved in a small 
s separate saucepan. The aspic should never be 
reduced with the idea of rendering it firmer, 
because the boiling only wastes it without thick- 
ening it; chop one pound of lean beef, one pound for two quarts of liquid, add to it four 
egg-whites or two whole eggs and one pint of white wine, dilute it gradually with the aspic 
jelly, put it into a saucepan on the fire, stir the liquid with a whisk until the instant boiling 
side, and let it simmer very slowly, till it becomes perfectly 


point is reached, then remove it to one 
clear, then strain it through a flannel bag (Fig. 50); or moisten a clean napkin and arrange it 
elly not be sufficiently limpid, pour it 


on a kitchen filtering stool as shown in Fig. 51; should the j 
through again until perfectly clear. 


knuckle, and two fowls, suppressing the breasts; when the meats are lightly 






f | 

4 

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Be \\\ 





2 . 





—~ 





196 THE EPICUREAN. 


(104), CALF’S FOOT JELLY WITH MADEIRA WINE (Gelée de Pieds de Veau au vin de Madére). 


Take the value of one quart of calf’s foot gelatine and mix into it three quarters of a pound of 
sugar and the juice of four lemons. After the sugar is dissolved try its consistency to rectify it if 
necessary, adding more water or more gelatine according to whether it be too soft or too hard. 
Beat up four egg-whites without letting them come to a froth, mix in a gill of cold water and pour 
this over the dissolved gelatine; set the untinned basin on a moderate fire, whip the liquid slowly 
until on the verge of boiling, then withdraw it to a slower heat and keep the liquid simmering with- 
out boiling; now add the juice of four lemons; cover and leave stand for thirty minutes. The jelly 
should now be limpid; filter it through a flannel bag or a napkin fastened to the four feet of a 
filtering stool (Fig. 51), return the jelly to the bag and continue the operation until it passes 
through clearly; this should be done ina warm place, As soon as the jelly is properly filtered let 
it stand until cold and then add one gill of good Madeira, pour it into a mold previously 
imbedded in ice and leave it for one hour and a half to set. 


(105), MEAT JELLY WITH GELATINE (Gelée de Viande & la Gélatine), 


Put four quarts of good broth with one pound of gelatine into a saucepan, adding a quarter of 
an ovinéé of pepper-corns; two cloves, a few branches of celery and a little mace, put it on to the* 
fire and stir continuously with a whip until the liquid boils; season to taste. “Break six eggs, 
put them with their shells into a bowl and beat them up a little mixing in with them, half a bottle 
of white wine or a quarter of a bottle of Madeira, one gill of tarragon vinegar, and a quart of 
small pieces of clean ice, dilute this with a quart of the liquid jelly, and pour the clarification into. 
the remainder of the jelly, stirring it constantly, then return the saucepan to the fire and continue 
the beating. When the jelly has reached the boiling degree, remove it from the fire, and keep. 
it very warm for half an hour, but it must not boil again; filter as indicated (No. 103). 


(106), SWEET JELLY WITH GELATINE, OR FISH ISINGLASS (Gelée Douce 4 la Gélatine ou a& 
la Colle de Poisson), 


Put into a basin four quarts of water, three pounds of sugar, half a pound of gelatine or ten 
ounces of fish isinglass and the peel of eight lemons, stir the whole well together until the sugar is. 
melted, then set the basin on a slow fire and beat well with a whip; as soon as it begins to boil put 
in twelve partly beaten egg-whites into which has been added the juice of twelve lemons; mix the 
whole well together stirring unceasingly and allowing it to boil slowly from fifteen to twenty min- 
utes, then withdraw the basin from the fire and let the jelly rest for a few moments; now pour it 
through a flannel bag upheld by a ring (Fig. 50); return it several times until it acquires a perfect 
limpidity. The lemon-peel can be suppressed, flavoring it with any kind of liquor or clarified 
fruit juice. 


(107), LARD. (Saindoux), 


Lard is the produce of leaf lard melted with fat pork; this operation should be performed 
rapidly, especially insummer time. Remove the membranes and sanguineous parts from all thatis 
required for making the lard—say about twenty pounds; cut the leaf lard and fat pork into half 
inch squares and steep them separately for two hours in an abundance of cold water using twelve 
quarts for each and two ounces of crystal soda also for each; wash both in several waters, keeping: 
them separated; drain and lay first the fat pork in a saucepan with four quarts of water, melt it on 
a slow fire being careful to stir the bottom frequently; as it melts it becomes white and milky, then 
transparent, when in this state, strain it through a colander and return it to a clean saucepan add- 
ing the leaf lard; set it on a good fire and stir incessantly until the squares become dry aud brown, 
then strain the fat, press well the squares, leave to cool slightly, afterward adding a gill of water 
for every two pounds of the fat. Beat the whole vigorously, let cool and draw off the clear part. 


before the fat has had time to congeal, just when it begins to set, beat thoroughly to have it. 
smooth. 


(108), AXUNGE (Axonge), 


Axunge is exclusively obtained by melting leaf lard without using any other material; axunge 
is finer than lard and is also employed for kitchen and pastry purposes. The leaf lard is melted 
in a bain-marie or by steam, this latter method being preferable. Remove the skin and fibers 
from ten pounds of leaf lard, cut it up in squares about half an inch each and bathe them in 
eighteen quarts of water with half a pound of crystal soda; wash in several waters, drain and 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 197 


pound in a mortar, then put it into a well tinned copper basin in a bain-marie and steam by keep- 
ing the water boiling all the time until the lard is all melted, now strain it through a fine colander 
and leave to cool slightly, adding one pint of cold water, stir well, let it rest, then pour off the clear 
part when it begins to set, beat well to have it smooth. : 


(109), VEAL UDDER (Tétine de Veau). 


Veal Udder is the fatty part covering a kernel of veal; remove it entirely, tie it up and cook 
in plenty of white broth; when done take it out, pull off the string and press it lightly under a 
weight. Pare and cut it either into strips, squares or bands, etc. It is used in forcemeats instead 
of butter, pass it twice through the machine, pound well and then pass through a sieve. The way 
to keep it is to leave it covered in a cool place or else cover over entirely with salt. 


(110). TO PREPARE LARDING PORK (Pour Préparer le Lard & Piquer). 


Lift the bands of pork leaving as little meat on as possible, from the first rib to the end of the 
loin; lay them in brine for three months, then drain off, and put them on a table to rub one by one 
and cover with salt. Set them one on top of the other in a cool, dry place and range a board over 
with a weight on top; turn them over, and throw on some salt, and at the end of a month change 
those from the bottom to the top, and three months after, fasten a strong twine to each piece, and 
hang them up separately in a cold, dark room to dry. 

Another Way.—The piece of pork taken from the back is the only one to use for larding pur- 
poses, as it is firm and not liable to crack. Remove all the meat from it, and cut it into an oblong 
piece, this being called a band; salt it dry with fine salt for three or four weeks, and if it be neces- 
sary to use it shortly after its salting, then rub it with very fine salt, and hang it up ina dry and 
cool place. This pork must be salted toward the end of the winter; fat pork never receives more 
salt than it needs, whichever way it may be employed, or however long the operation may last. 


(111), TO CUT FAT PORK FOR LARDING (Maniére de Tailler le Lard Pour Piquer). 


The larding pork must be white and firm, perfectly dry and cooled on ice, specially in summer 
so to make it harder and to be enabled to cut it more evenly. Divide the pork into the required 
length leaving on the rind; remove a slice from the top of the necessary thickness to have the pork 
of the same thickness throughout, paring the two ends square, then divide it into lardons at equal 
distances cutting them perpendicularly as far down as the rind, for this use a thin knife, called a 
lard slicer, and cut the lard the size designated by Fig. 52, then cut them horizontally to 
obtain very square lardons of the desired size. 
























































46 sing 
Fig, 52. Fic. 53.—Larding Needle for Beef & la Mode. 


Fie. 54.—Trussing Needle. 
Fig. 55.—Large Larding Needle. 


No. 1, lardons as represented in the figure are from three to four-eighths of an inch square, 
by three and one-quarter to four inches long. This size is for larding beef a la mode, braised 
tongue, kernel of veal, leg of mutton, etc. 

No. 2, are three-sixteenths of an inch square by two and one quarter inches long; this size is 
convenient for saddles of venison, fricandeaux, tenderloins of beef, ete. 

No. 3, these are five-thirty-seconds of an inch square, by two inches in length; this size is for 
poultry, large game, fish, sweetbreads, veal cutlets, ete. 

No. 4, lardors of one-eighth of an inch square, by one and three-quarter inches long; this 


size is for small game, pigeons, chickens, etc. . ; 
The lardons as shown in the figures are represented one quarter their actual size. 


(112), TO LARD MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME (Pour Piquer les Viandes la Volaille et le Gibier), 
If it be butcher’s meat, pare it properly by removing in strips the skin covering the meat, then 
all the superfluous fat. 



















198 fee shat EPICUREAN. , 


The way to lard a tenderloin is to pare a fine tenderloin of beef, weighing six < pounds 
is trimmed; remove the fat, slide the blade of a thin knife between the skin and the mea 
press it on the skin so as to avoid injuring the flesh; remove also the superfluous fat on the si lk 
then cut the two ends round shaped. Choose a larding needle of suitable size to hold. the la in, 
pork that should be cut into pieces of three-sixteenths by two and a quarter inches long; lay tk 
tenderloin lengthwise on a heavy towel, place this over the left arm, then proceed to lard the 
with the larding needle threaded with a piece of the pork, boring the meat from right to 
The needle containing the pork must be stuck in the flesh to a depth depending upon its len 
but the needle must be withdrawn with one stroke, so that me pork remains in the meat visibl > of 


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eas taba Cele all) 


an equal length on both sides. After the first row is larded, the next one should be slipped exactly a 
between those of the first row; then instead of larding between the two lards of the last row, bene , 
the operation from the start, which means lard two more rows the same as the first, observing that — 
the second ones are arranged contrarywise to the first two, then continue until the whole tender- a 
loin is filled. Proceed exactly the same for fricandeau, racks of veal, grenadins or sweetbreads. a 
When a piece of poultry or game is required to be larded, it must first be drawn, singed and — 
trussed, then singe the breast once more, or else dip this part into boiling water to harden the 
meat; after this is cold, lard with lardons adapted to their size. This in fact is the whole theory — 


. 


of larding, and by examining various larded pieces, one can easily become an adept in the art. nh ‘ 


(113), LEMONS; TO CUT THEM IN VARIOUS MANNERS (Citrons Taillés de Différentes Maniéres). 


First wash and wipe the lemons, then cut them length- 
wise in four, to serve either with oysters or fried fish. 

Channeled ‘slices of lemon are made by cutting smal! 
notches on the lemon lengthways of the peel, then cutting. 
the lemon in crosswise slices an eighth of an inch thick. 
These are used for garnishing broiled fish. Slices of lemon 
cut the same way without being channeled, are frequently 
served with tea. : 

Halved lemons are prepared by paring off the two 
ends and then make sixteen notches in the center, the 
third of the length of the lemon with the tip of a small 
knife; these gashes should be yery regular; run the knife through as far as the center, 
having eight cuts to the right and eight to the left, this makes eight long triangles; 





Fie. 60. 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 199 


detach the lemon in two parts (Fig. 60). These are used also for cold fish and hatelets or 
skewers (Fig. 61). 

Shells of lemon can also be made, making two shells from one lemon. Cut from the center of 
the lemon, beginning at the stalk, as far as the middle of one side and from the other end of the 
lemon as far as the middle of the other side, about one half inch of the peel, without detaching it; 
cut across the lemon, keeping the ribbon of the peel intact, thus producing two identical pieces; 
these halved shells are used for garnishing fried fishes such as sole & la Colbert, ete. 


(114), COOKED MARINADE (Marinade Cuite), 


Mince one pound of carrots, as much onions and half a pound of celery root; fry all these 
vegetables in a quarter of a pound of lard without letting them attain color, and moisten with 
two quarts of vinegar and one quart of water or more according to the strength of the vinegar. 
Add an ounce of parsley leaves, three bayleaves and as much thyme, half an ounce of basil, 
garlic, cloves, a bit of mace, a tablespoonful of crushed whole peppers and the same quantity of 
allspice, and some salt. Boil the whole for half an hour, put it aside to get cold and use this 
marinade for marinating venison, mutton, hare, ete. 


(115), RAW MARINADE (Marinade Crue). 


There are two kinds of raw marinade; the first one is made of oil, minced onions, branches of 
parsley, thyme, bayleaf, slices of lemon, salt, mignonette, garlic and basil. The second one is 
made of two quarts of vinegar, four quarts of water, minced carrots and onions, bayleaf, a clove of 
garlic, thyme, basil, mace, whole peppers and sprigs of parsley. 


(116). HOW TO DRESS MERINGUES (Pour Dresser les Meringues), 


Prepare a meringue paste as in No. 140. Pour the preparation 
into a pocket furnished with a socket and push it into rounds on to 
white paper bands; dust them over with fine sugar and press down 
the middle lightly, so as to efface the tip, formed by the socket, then 
range these paper bands on top of some wet boards. Cook the 
meringues on these boards in a very slack oven, leaving them 
in for fifty minutes; they must be of a fine golden color and 
well-dried; after taking them from the oven, detach them carefully 
from the paper, and remove all the soft parts from the insides, using a teaspoon for this purpose, 
then lay them immed.ately on a raised edged tin sheet, one beside the other, the hollow part up- 
permost, and keep them in a warm heater for twelve hours. 








(117) MINCE MEAT (Mince Meat), 


-Suppress all fibers and skin from half a pound of beef kidney suet, chop it up very finely; 
have also chopped half a pound of cooked ox heart; seed and pick half a pound of Malaga raisins, 
half a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of currants, chop up three ounces of citron, cut three 
ounces of candied orange peel into three-sixteenth of an inch squares, peel and chop finely two 
pounds of apples. Have two ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ground cinnamon, a quarter 
of an ounce of grated nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of allspice and ground ginger, and a quarter of 
an ounce of powdered coriander seeds, one pint of cider, one gill of rum, quarter of a gill of brandy 
and the peels and juice of two lemons. Mix all the ingredients together and put them into a 
stone crock leaving it in a cool place for at least fifteen days before using. 


(118), TO TURN, CHANNEL AND FLUTE MUSHROOMS (Pour Tourner et Canneler les 
Champignons). 

Choose the freshest mushrooms and those of equal size, cut off the stems, wipe well the heads, 
and take them one by one in the left hand, the hollow side underneath, then with the tip of a 
small pointed knife cut away the peel in regular rings without destroying the mushroom, and turn 
from right to left pressing all the time against the tip of the small knife; this must be done quickly 
and let us observe that it is not on the first trial that a mushroom can be properly turned, it takes 
practice to accomplish this properly. As quickly as each one is done, throw it into a saucepan 
containing cold, acidulated water, just sufficient to cover, then drain off the water, and cook the 
mushrooms for seven or eight minutes with the lid on, adding salt, butter and lemon juice, to 
keep them as white as possible. As for fluting mushrooms, this art is only learned after long 





200 | THE EPICUREAN. a a 


experience. Mushroom fluting has become almost a profession, and the difficulties to be overcome a 
ean be better understood on examining those pretty mushroom heads so delicately carved, we — = 


see displayed by all preserve manufacturers. 


(119), TO STONE OLIVES (Pour Enucléer les Olives), 


If the olives are plump, large and contain small stones, these can be 
removed -with a machine made for the purpose (Fig. 63) or with a tube 
from a column box, but generally the meat is cut off in spirals around 
the stone by means of a small knife. After the stone is removed, the olives 
resume their former shape, then plunge them into boiling water, and 
take them out again at once; they must be blanched without boiling. 


(120), PANADA OREAM FRANGIPANE (Panade Oréme Frangipane), 


Boil four gills of cream; put into another saucepan, four eggs, an 
ounce and a half of flour and some salt; mix and dilute with the cream, 
set it on the fire, and stir it with a spoon, bearing on the bottom of the 
saucepan, and when thickened and well worked remove it from the fire 
at the first boil and then set it away to cool with a buttered paper over it. 





~ (121), PANADA OF FLOUR AND MILK, BREAD-CRUMBS, AND PATE A ee a 
GHOUX (Panade de Farine et de Lait, Mie de Pain et Pate a Choux), . : 
a 


Flour and Milk.—Put in a saucepan half pornd of flour, also four eggs and work well 
together adding some salt, and dilute with six to eight gills of milk; stir it over the fire and remove 
at the first boil, pour it into a bowl, cover with a buttered paper and let get cold. 


Bread-crumbs.—Soak four ounces of bread-crumbs in a pint of water, squeeze out all the 
liquid and put it into a saucepan with a little salt and three gills of milk; thicken it on the fire 
without ceasing to beat, and stir it up with a spoon until it detaches itself from the pan, then set 
it in a bowl, cover with buttered paper and put away to cool. 


Péte & Choux.—Put one pint of water or broth in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, set it 
on the fire, remove it aside at the first boil, and incorporate into it three quarters of a pound of 
sifted flour, mix well and dry on a slow fire till the paste detaches itself from the saucepan and let 
cool slightly, then stir into it gradually two whole eggs and four yolks, set it away in a cool place 
with a buttered paper over, for further use. 


(122) WHEAT AND RICE FLOUR PANADA (Panade de Farine de Gruau et de Riz), 


Wheat Flour.—Boil half a pint of broth with half an ounce of butter, remove it to the side of 
the fire, and add to it four or five ounces of flour, or as much as it can absorb, stir the paste © 
quickly, return it to a slow fire to dry, do not cease stirring until it detaches from the saucepan. 
Pour it into a bowl, cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set it away to cool. 

Rice Flowr,—Have one pint of white broth or milk and half an ounce of butter; boil together 


and add sufficient rice flour to form a paste, let it dry, then set it away with a buttered paper 
cover to get cool. 


(123), PARSLEY BOUQUET, IN BRANCHES, FRIED OR CHOPPED (Persil en Bouquet, en Branches, 7 
Frit ou Haché), 


Plain Bouquet or Bunch of Parsley.—Take about one ounce of parsley branches, including 


the leaves, wash them nicely and fold them in such a manner that they form a small bundle or 
fagot, to be tied with a piece of string. 


_ Lhe Garnished Bouquet of Parsley.—Make it exactly the same as the plain bouquet the only 
difference being that it envelopes various aromatics, such as thyme, bayleaf, clove of garlic, basil, 
marjoram, chives, green celery, ete. When we speak of a garnished bunch of parsley without any 
specification, we mean garnished with a bayleaf and a small twig of thyme. 


Parsley in Branches for garnishing should be taken from well washed, very green parsley, 


rom which the coarser stalks have been removed; keep it in fresh water and use when needed, 
crating it first: for garnishing fish, boiled beef, ete. 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 201 


Fried Parsley is used as an accessory to fried dishes; it is not a garnishing, but simply a dec: 
oration; detach some leaves from some very green parsley, wash them in cold water, drain, 
press them in the hand or in a cloth to extract all the water, and when dry, lay them in a wire 
basket to plunge into boiling fat; drain as soon as they stiffen. 


Chopped Parsley.—Choose very green parsley, wash, drain and press it so as to extract all 
the water, then cut it up as finely as possible, afterward chopping it well; wash it again, drain and 
‘Squeeze it thoroughly to remove all the water; lay it on a cloth sieve and leave it in a cool place 
till needed. 


(124), ALMOND PASTE FOR FANCY OAKES (Pate d’Amandes 3 Petits Fours), 


Take one pound of peeled and well dried almonds; one pound of powdered sugar, and five whites 
of eggs. Pound the almonds and the sugar, either in a machine or mortar, and when well reduced 
to a powder, pass it forcibly through a twelve mesh sieve (Fig. 96); return it to the mortar, and 
mix in with the almonds the five egg-whites little by little, so as to make a paste, which can be now 
beaten and worked until a good body is obtained, having it as fine as possible. 


(125), ALMOND PASTE WITH COOKED SUGAR AND FILBERT PASTE (Pate d’Amandes et Pate 
d’Avelines au Sucre Ouit), 


Almond Paste.—Shell and skin one pound of almonds; pound them with half a pound of 
powdered sugar and a little water to make into a very fine paste, the same consistency aS a maca- 
roon paste. Cook three pounds of sugar to small crack, and as soon as ready pour it in small 
Strings on to the paste, stirring constantly with a spatula and leave stand till cold. When this 
paste is thoroughly cooled off, return it to the mortar and pound it once more with liquors or 
vanilla syrup, to have it obtain a body and make it into a fine paste, then put it in a stone jar and 
leave it in a cool place. 


Filbert Paste with Cooked Sugar.—Have one pound of shelled filberts pounded to a pulp 
with a pound of powdered sugar and a gill of water; lay this paste ina basin. Cook in a copper 
pan two pounds and a half of sugar to small crack, pour it slowly over the paste mixing it so that 
it mingles in well, then leave to cool and pound again, stirring in half a gill of liquor, either 
Kirsch, maraschino or any other. Color the paste green or pink according to taste. 


(126), ALMOND PASTE WITH EGG-YOLKS (Pate d’amandes aux jaunes d’cufs), 


Haye one pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, and eight egg-yolks; pound or mash the 
almonds in a machine with the sugar so as to reduce them to a fine powder, then strain through a 
twelve mesh sieve (Fig. 96), put them into the mortar, and mixin well the yolks adding them little 
by little; pound all up together so as to obtain a very fine paste, having it quite thick. 


(127), ALMOND PASTE WITH GUM TRAGACANTH (Pate d’Amandes & la Gomme Adragante), 


Put three ounces of gum tragacanth to steep in two gills of water for twenty-four hours, then 
strain forcibly through a piece of linen. Pour this gum on a marble slab and work with the hand 
to have it acquire a body, incorporating in slowly two pounds of icing sugar, then add one pound 
of pounded almonds and the juice of a lemon strained through a sieve; beat the paste well and 
pour it into a vessel or stone pot; closing hermetically; keep in a very cool place to use when 
needed. This paste may be colored red, green, orange or any other color. 


(128), ALMOND PASTE WITH PISTAOHIOS (Pate d'Amandes aux Pistaches), 

Have three quarters of a pound of almonds, half a pound of pistachio nuts, a pound and a 
half of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of orange flower-water and five egg-whites. Peel the almonds 
and pistachio nuts; dry and pound them with the sugar, egg-whites and orange flower-water till 
they become a fine paste, then add to it a little vegetable green, so as to give it a soft, green 
color. 


(129), BABA PASTE (Pate & Baba), 
Sift a pound of flour on the table, divide it in four even parts and use one of these to make the 
.leaven by forming it in a circle and placing three quarters of an ounce of yeast in the center, dilut- 
ing with a little warm milk to obtain a soft paste; roll this into a ball, cut it crosswise on the top 






























with two cuts of the knife and lay it ina floured vessel; cover with a “doth ane ie to 
mild temperature to double its size. Pile the remainder of the flour into a hillock, make 
the center to form a hollow and in it lay an ounce of sugar, a spare half ounce of salt (a 
- to the saltness of the butter), six ounces of butter and six eggs. Mix all the ingredient 
together and work the flour in slowly, then begin to knead the paste so that it becomes smoo’ 
acquires a body slowly adding three more eggs and four ounces of butter; continue to knead 
again quite smooth with plenty of body, then mix in the leaven, wrapping it lightly i in the 
and cutting the whole in every direction until thoroughly mingled and the paste is finished 
add to it two ounces of seeded Malaga raisins, two ounces of Sultana or Smyrna currants soft 
in water, two ounces of cherries cut in four and two ounces of finely cut up citron. Lay the p 
in a vessel, cover with a cloth and let rise to a third more than its size, then break it up ¥ 

spoon; the paste is now ready to be used. 


4 


(130). BRIOCHE PASTE (Pate & Brioche), 


Take one pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, seven to eight eggs, 
ounce of yeast, two pinches of salt, four pinches of sugar, two spoonfuls of brandy and 
water. Dissolve the yeast in half a. pint. of tepid water, and with this liquid and a qu 
a pound of the flour, make a rather thick paste, put it into a small saucepan with a little h 
warm water at the bottom, and let it rise in a slack heater. Sift the remainder of the flour on 
table, form a hollow and put in the center, the salt, sugar, brandy, two spoonfuls of water, 
of the eggs and the butter; mix together thoroughly with the hand, and incorporate gradually 
flour so as to obtain a smooth paste, then beat sharply with the hands for a quarter of an 
adding the rest of the eggs one at the time. Beat it well against the table to let it acquire 
then lay out the paste and spread the yeast over, fold it up to enclose the yeast and break it 
small pieces with the hands; pile up the broken pieces, cut the paste once more, and pu 
pieces as quickly as they are cut into a floured vessel, cover it and set it to rise in a m 
temperature, until it will be raised to twice its original size; this will take at least six hours 
the paste again on the floured table, break it up and refold it several times with the hands, reti 
it to the vessel, cover and put it back once more in the same place to rise. Break the paste. 
again three hours later, put it back into the vessel, and this time set it either in a cool Plas 
the ice to become firm. It should now be left at least three hours before using. a 


(3D, COOKED PASTE FOR FANCIFUL BORDERS (Pate Cuite pour Bordures de Fantai 


Boil one pint of water with a quarter of a pound of butter and a grain of salt; as soon” 
liquid boils remove it from the fire, and incorporate in one pound of flour so as to obtain | 
paste, then replace it on to a moderate fire and stir vigorously until it detaches from the botto 
the saucepan, then remove it entirely and pour it on to a floured table; as soon as it co 
slightly, knead it with the hands, adding to it slowly one pound more flour; by this ti 
paste should be perfectly smooth; after it has obtained a consistency, turn it the same as 


paste (No. 146), giving it seven or eight turns, having the paste remarkably smooth; it must be 
at once. 


” 
= iJ 
ar) 


(132), OREAM CAKE PASTE (Pate & Chou). 


Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, a grain of salt, one ounce of sugar and two ow 
butter; set the saucepan on the fire and when the butter floats, remove the pan from off the 
and incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fine flour, stir vigorously not to have it the | 
lumpy, and put it back on to a slow fire to dry until it detaches easily from the bottom, then 
it off once more, and mix in a tablespoonful of orange flower-water; four or five minutes later 
'n four or five eggs, adding them one at the time; it must now be more consistent than othe 


and if a little of it should be dropped from the spoon, it must retain its shape and not spread. — 


(133), DRESSING PASTE (Pate & Dresser), 


Sift a pound of flour on the table, arrange it in a circle and in the center lay half an ounce 
salt, four ounces of butter and a gill of water; mix thoroughly, working the flour in as fast as 


sible, When the paste begins to attain a body, knead it thoroughly twice! mold it round, | fi 
and leave in a cool place. 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 203 


(134), ENGLISH PASTE FOR BORDERS (Pate Anglaise Pour Bordures), 


One pound of fecula, one pound of sugar, six egg-whites. Lay the fecula on the table, forming 
a hollow in the center, into this put the sugar, a little tepid water and six egg-whites, lightly 
- whisked; make a very hard paste, set it in a cool place hermetically closed in a bag for about two 
hours. 


(135), FINE FOUNDATION, ORDINARY FOUNDATION OR SHORT AND FLAWN PASTES 
(Pate & Foncer, Fine, Ordinaire ou Brisée et & Flans), 


Fine Foundation Paste.—Have one pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, half 
a pint of cold water and half an ounce of salt. Sift the flour on a table, bring it all together and 
make a hollow in the center, spreading it with the hand, and in this space lay the butter, divided 
into small bits, half of the water and the salt; make a dough by mixing first the butter with the 
water, then drawing the flour into this wet part, a very little at the time, so as to obtain a paste 
neither lumpy nor too firm; if necessary, add the rest of the water, a very little at the time, mass 
it together, and knead it briskly two or three times. To knead dough is te put it in front of one, 
and push it little by little with the palms of both hands and pressing it hard against the table so 
as to get it smooth; after this is finished, bring it together again, detach carefully all the bits 
adhering to the table, and roll it into a ball with the hands, turning it in the left hand. Let 
the paste rest in the ice-box a quarter of an hour before using it. 


Ordinary Foundation or Short Paste is made with one pound of flour, half a pound of butter, 
half a pint of water and a third of an ounce of salt. Make a hollow in the center of the flour, 
put into this the butter, salt and half of the water; work well the paste, adding more water, knead 
it properly, then roll it into a ball on a floured table; cover and let rest for one hour. 


Flawn Paste.—One and one-quarter pounds of flour, three-quarters pound of butter, a little 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three or four egg-yolks; make the paste on the table, adding 
enough water so the paste will not be too firm; knead, bring together and leave to rest, being 
careful to cover it. 


_ (136), FROLLE PASTE OR SWEET (Pate a Frolle ou pate Sucrée), 


_ Arrange one pound of sifted flour in a circle on the table; in the center lay half a pound of 
butter, half a pound of sugar, the peel of a lemon, chopped very fine, a pinch of salt, one whole egg 
and four to five yolks. Work the whole well together to obtain a smooth paste, kneading it twice; 
form into a ball and put aside in the icebox to rest. 


(1387). FRYING BATTERS (Pates & Frire), 


No. 1.—Put into a vessel, half a pound of flour, a little salt, four tablespoonfuls of oil and 
three egg-yolks; dilute these with sufficient water at once, so as not to have to add any more, and 
the size of half an inch ball of compressed yeast dissolved in a little tepid water; mix till it becomes 
smooth and flows without being stringy; it should well cover the spoon. Lay a cloth over the vessel. 
and keep it in a moderate temperature. At the last moment add to it three beaten egg-whites. 


No. 2.—Place in a vessel half a pound of flour, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of oil, diluted 
in tepid water, and then add a piece of compressed yeast the size of a half an inch ball, dissolved in 
a little water. Set the batter in a moderate temperature, and when it begins to ferment, add a 
handful of flour, salt, oil and water. The batter should be renewed every day without adding 
yeast; the fermentation produced by the batter will be sufficient to keep it light, and avoid the use 
of any more yeast. 


No. 3.—This is a finer preparation, intended for sweet dishes, etc. Take half a pound of flour, 
dilute it with tepid water, into which an ounce of butter has been melted, also salt; make a soft, 
yery smooth batter and when it has cooled off, add to it half a gill of brandy, two egg-yolks and 
two whites, beaten to a stiff froth. 

No. 4.—This is frying batter with baking powder. Put five ounces of flour into a vessel, dilut- 
ing it with two gills of tepid water, one tablespoonful of brandy, two of oil, a pinch of salt and one 
egg-yolk. When ready to use, adda small coffeespoonful of baking-powder and one egg-white, 


beaten to a stiff froth. 

























204 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(138), MACAROON PASTE (Pate a Macarons). 


<s 

Made with one pound of peeled and well dried almonds, three quarters of a noun of powdere q 
sugar, a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar and eight egg-whites. Pound the almonds. with 
sugar and part of the whites, so as to obtain a not too fine paste, then gradually add the re ir 
of the whites; work tie paste well to have it obtain plenty of consistence. 


(139). MAROHPANE PASTE WITH ORANGE-FLOWER WATER (Pate Mesa & Peau de 
d’Oranger), | 


One pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, one gill of orange flower-water and the jui 
one lemon. Peel the almonds, wash them in cold water, drain on a cloth and pound them 
the orange flower-water, adding the sugar and the lemon-juice; obtain a very fine paste and — 
it into a small saucepan to dry on a slow fire, turning it steadily until all the moisture evapor: 
and it detaches from the sides and bottom of the pan. A round bottomed saucepan or basin is far 
preferable to the flat ones, which are in general use. aaa 


(140), PLAIN MERINGUE PREPARATION AND ITALIAN MERINGUE WITH COOKED SUG AR 
(Pate & Meringue Ordinaire et Pate & Meringue Italienne Avec Sucre Cuit), 


The preparation for meringues is composed of twelve or fifteen egg-whites for each pound 
powdered sugar; set these whites in a basin with a grain of salt and beat up with a whip, v 
slowly at first, but increasing the velocity of the movement as the quantity becomes greater. “ e 
beaten whites should be stiff and remarkably smooth; then mix in the sugar a little at a time, " 
using a wooden spoon for the purpose. 


Italian Meringue with Cooked Sugar.—Cook one pound of sugar +8 call "UNO in); 
incorporate a very little of it at a time into six beaten whites, without ceasing to stir; when 


au 


all the sugar is absorbed work it for two minutes longer on a slow fire to have it very smooth.  — 
(141), MILAN PASTE (Pate & Milan), — ad 


a 

Form a hollow in the center of a pound of fiour on the table, lay in it half a pound of butteel art 
half a pound of sugar, a little salt and three eggs; mix well and knead the dough twice, then pane ay 
it aside to rest in a cool place. *% 


(142). NOODLE PASTE, NOODLE PASTE FOR BORDERS AND REPERE PASTE FOR FASTENING 
(Pate & Nouilles, Pate & Nouilles pour Bordures et & Repére pour Ooller). 


Noodle Paste.—Make a ring on the table with a pound of sifted flour, in the center lay a pine. c 
of salt, a tablespoonful of tepid water and five beaten eggs; mix the eggs in slowly with the flour — 
and then wrap the paste in a cloth, leave it to rest for fifteen minutes and afterward knead it well >. 
to have it smooth; this requires some time to do. a E “ 

Noodle Paste for Borders.—The same preparation as for the above, the only difference being 
an the five whole eggs are replaced by ten yolks. This paste can also be used for covering dish — 

ottoms. 2 . 

Paste for Fastening on Borders (Repére).—This is simply sifted flour diluted with beaten — 
egg and passed through a fine wire sieve to obtain a sufficiently paste paste that can be pushed 
through acornet. It should be consistent enough not to run. | 


(143), OFFICE PASTE (Pate d’office), 


Sift one pound of flour on the table, make a hollow in the center, and in this lay half a pound — 


of sugar, two whole eggs and four yolks. Mix all together to form a smooth paste, knead it twice, — 
and let it rest in a cool place before using it. 


‘ (144), PIE PASTE (COLD) (Pate & Paté) (froid), ’ 
his is prepared with melted butter as follows: Sift a pound of flour, form a hollow in the 

Me nter and in it tay four egg-yolks and the third of an ounce of salt dissolved in a little water. 
elt eight ounces of butter, pour the clear part slowly into the hollow, then work the flour gradu- 
into it, adding the necessary water and knead the paste at once, roll it into a ball and leave 

0 cool. This paste is far mellower than when made with cold butter. 


Another proportion for cold pie paste is to have one pound of mee pon ounces of butter, . ¥ 
‘ur eggs, tepid water and salt; prepare and finish as above. ae 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 205 


(145). PASTES FOR HOT PIES (Pates & Patés Chands), 


Lay in a circle on the table one pound of sifted fiour; make a hollow in the center and into 
this put a third of an ounce of salt dissolved in a little water, eight ounces of butter, two egg- 
and two gills of water. Mix first the butter with the eggs and water, add the flour working itina 
little at the time, also pour in a little water as it becomes necessary, being careful not to get the 
paste too thin, and still avoid being too dry, otherwise it will not hold together well; knead the 
dough twice, detach it from the table and form it into a ball on the floured table, and when smooth 
cover and let it rest. 

Another recipe is: one pound of fiour, eight ounces of butter, half a pint of water, four egg- 
yolks, and a third of an ounce of salt dissolved in water; to be prepared the same as the above. 


yolks 


(146). PUFF PASTE AND HALF PUFF PASTE (Pate Feuilletée et demi Feuilletée), 


This paste is actually not so very difficult to make, only it requires particular attention. 
Weigh one pound of the very best quality, not too fresh. but well dried flour; one pound - 
of butter, well drained and cooled on 
the ice, then kneaded in a cloth to make 
it become-fiexible. Sift the flour on to 
the table, arrange it in a circle, and 
put into this one teaspoonful of salt and a 
glassful of water. With the right hand 
mix gradually the liquid with the flour, 

























































ra 
" 8 8 iP 
Bit eta 





Fic 64. 








adding more water when necessary, so as to obtain 
a smooth, even paste, soft in preference to hard, 
and of a consistency neither stringy nor ropy: as 
soon as the dough is made, knead it well for two 
minutes, detaching all the small particles from the 
table, but if the paste be well made it should adhere 
neither to the table nor to the hand: cover it with a 
cloth and let it rest for twelve minutes. Dredge 
the table lightly with flour, lay the paste on top, and roll it out square shaped, roll out the butter 
likewise, lay it in the center of the paste, on top, then bring the four outer edges back on to the 
butter so as to inclose it well (Fig. 64); take a pastry rolling pin, apply it on the paste, and using 
the two hands push the paste and butter forward, rolling it out to the thickness of three-sixteenths 
of an inch or thereabout, keeping it straight on both sides as represented in the following design 
(Fig. 65). Fold this band into three, press it down with the rolling pin to compress it, the accom- 
panying design will show how to fold it (Fig. 66). The paste has now only received one turn; to 
fold it once more, give it a half turn so as to lengthen it to the same thickuess, but in a contrary 
direction, as thin as before; then fold the paste in three, cover it and let it rest for ten or twelve 
minutes; the paste will now have received two turns; then give it two turns more, exactly the 

















Fic. 66. 



























206 o. 66 PH EPICUREAN, ~ ay 


same as the others, and let it rest each time for ten minutes. Raters giving ‘the last tw: 
turns to fine puff paste, it must have areey had six, if more are piven it will be found bl 
to its delicacy. 

One special obstacle to te shies avoided during the operation i is not to let any butte e 
ever escape from the folds of the paste, which might easily occur if the paste happens to be 
soft, if rolled out too thin, if not rolled out regularly in smooth layers, and if it is thicker o1 ¢ 
side than the other. In summer it is very difficult to obtain good puff paste without the 
ice or at least without a cold cellar; in any way this inconvenience can be obviated 
stituting good beef kidney suet for butter. This fat must first be skinned, then soaked - 
water, well drained, and pounded in a mortar, so as to convert it to a smooth paste, and 
made supple by working it with the hands for a few minutes while wrapped in a cloth. 1 
paste should be made in moist, summer weather it must be laid on a cold aa ee 
with flour, and put aside in the ice box. | 

For Half Puff Paste.—The parings from puff paste make an py half nasi 
paste should have to be made, prepare a dough of three-quarters of a pound of butter f 
pound of flour, operating exactly the same as for the puff paste, but giving it seven or eight 
instead of six. 3 


(147), RAVIOLE PASTE (Pate & Raviole), 


Lay a pound of sifted flour on the table, form a hollow in the center and in it place ; 
of salt, four eggs, two ounces of butter and a little tepid water. é 
Another proportion is one pound of flour, one ounce of salt, two eggs, one ounce of 
two heaping tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan and a little tepid water. The paste should 1] 
yet not too firm, knead it well to have it smooth, lay it on a board, cover with a cloth a 
rest in a cool Hians for one hour, then roll out and finish making the ravioles. | 


(148), SAVARIN PASTE (Pate & Savarin), 


One pound of flour, half a pound of melted butter, four ounces of sugar, i eggs 
yolks, half an ounce of yeast, half a gill of raw cream, and a pinch of salt. 
Sift some of the flour into a warm vessel, and ake a soft leaven with a quarter of th 


rise in a warm temperature. When fie leaven has risen to half its original size, break 
dough with the hands, and work into it gradually, and one by one the eggs and the remaind 
the flour, then knead the dough vigorously for ten minutes to give it a body, add to it sl 
melted butter, afterward the sugar and salt, and lastly the raw cream; the zest of lemon 

or grated may be added if desired. . , 


(149), TART. PASTE Pate a ase rg eee ES 
Hake a paste on the table with three- ee Wile of a pound of flour, a quarter of a be 


ipa of sugar, Anne a little eat When the as i smooth, wrap it up in a “le 
leave it to rest for twenty-five minutes. : i 


(150), TIMBALE PASTE (Pate & Timbale), 


Mix one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter, four or five egg- yolks 
of salt, and one gill of water. Form a paste, reserving a little of the water. Knead it well, 
slowly the rest of the water, roll it out, and set it aside to rest under a cover. 


(151), SMALL PUFF PATTIES (Petits Patés Feuilletés), — 


Make a puff paste the same as for puff paste (No. 146), giving it six turns, roll out thepa 
three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, let it rest awhile, then from it cut about fifteen 





Fia. 69. 


pieces, using a smooth pastry cutter one and three-quarters to two inches in diameter; col 
o° parings together at once, roll them out with the rolling pin to one-eighth of an inch thi 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 207 


and cut the same quantity of round pieces with the same cutter, turn them over on to a wet bak- 
ing sheet in straight rows, a small distance apart, and lay on each one, a one to one and a quarter 
inch ball of veal Godiveau forcemeat, or one of fish, chicken, game, with or without chives. 
Moisten the paste around the garnishing, cover each one with the pieces that were cut first, pressing 
them down to make the two layers of paste adhere together all around the garnishing; flatten the 
paste with the back of a small one and a half inch pastry cutter, egg the tops using a soft brash, 
and cook these small patties in a well heated oven. 


(152), TO POACH QUENELLES, SMALL TIMBALES AND MOUSSELINES (Pour Pocher les 
re Quenelles les Petites Timbales et les Mousselines), 


Quenelles.—Quenelles are poached by pouring hot (nearly boiling) water into a sautoire by 
the side of the quenelles, set the sautoire on the fire to bring the liquid to a boiling point, and at 
the first boil, cover the sautoire, remove it to the side of the range so that the water only quivers, 

and take out the quenelles with a skimmer as soon as they are firm. The length of time to poach 
quenelles depends upon their size; either ten or fifteen minutes. Dry them on a cloth before 
dressing. 

Small Timbales.—Range the timbales in a sautoire; fifteen minutes before serving, fill it to 
half the height of the molds with boiling water, and set the sautoire on the fire;-when the water 
is ready to boit, remove and place it in a slack oven for ten or fifteen minutes; after a lapse of ten 
minutes touch the forcemeat in the center, and if firm, take them out, let stand for a little 
and invert the molds into a cloth to drain off all the liquid. Unmold. 


Mousselines.—Put these into a flat sautoire furnished with a perforated grater having the holes 
at regular spaces apart so that each one can receive a mold. The molds being rounded at the 
bottom, these holes are to keep them standing upright. Pour boiling water into the saucepan 
nearly sufficient to cover the height of the molds and stand it on the fire; when the water 
boils, remove and push it gently into a slack oven for ten or fifteen minutes, sufficient time 
to poach them slowly; they will be found done when touched in the center, they resist to the 
pressure of the finger, then take them from the water, stand them on one side to drain and un- 
mold. If the oven be too hot the timbales rise, which must be avoided otherwise they lose 
their quality. 


(153), TO PRESS MEATS, GALANTINES, BREASTS, SWEETBREADS, ETC. (Pour Presser les 
Viandes, Galantines, Poitrines, Ris de veau, etc.). 


For Meat Jwices.—Have a press as shown in Fig. 70. The meats intended for pressing 
should be done rare, but cooked through, so that all the juice can be extracted. There 
is also a press for pressing galantines, sweetbreads, etc. This one 
is made as represented in Fig. 71; besides, there should be a double 
series of strips of wood, five inches across; the thinnest being a quarter 
of an inch thick, and the thickest are five inches; these are for the 
purpose of receiving the movable shelf belonging to the press so that 
all the pressed articles will be even throughout. For galantines it is also 
necessary to have a dozen tinned, sheet-iron 
sheets, a sixteenth of an inch thick, twelve 
inches long and six inches wide. These sheets 
are to be used when there are several galantines 
to equalize their thickness so that they are all 
pressed uniformly. The size of the press is 
thirty-eight inches high, twenty-eight inches 
wide and sixteen inches deep; the screw to be 
twenty-six inches long, and the wheel one foot Fie. 71. 
in diameter. Press to the required thickness by 
arranging the strips either higher or lower; 
for galantines they are put an inch lower than the galantine itself; turn the screw slowly until the 
movable shelf rests on the two strips which are the thickness required. 

Sweetbreads are pressed either in round or oval molds, proportionate to the size of the 
sweetbreads; place these molds, one beside the other, on a shelf of the same dimension as the 
movable one and fill each one with a piece of unlarded, braised sweetbread just sufficiently large 
enough to fill up the mold when pressed. 





208 THE EPICUREAN. fe es oe a 























For Breast of Mutton or Lamb, Br aised and Cooked. eae them ona nas a pre 
a half inch thick strip on both sides to receive the movable shelf the same as the sweetbreads. et 


Beef Tongues are placed in a mold the shape of the tongue, it being two inches thick, ei 
and a half inches long and three and a half inches on its widest Pe Molds containing t 
four, or six tongues can be had. 

Boned Hams are pressed i in oval timbale molds. 

Corned Beef in square molds, two and a half inches deep. 


(154), TO PREPARE DECORATED QUENELLES, MOLDED QUENELLES AND POC KE r - 

QUENELLES (Pour Préparer les Quenelles Décorées, Moulées et & la Poche), E 

Large decorated quenelles are used as a garnishing or to complete relevé garnishings: the se 

can be prepared with chicken, game or fish forcemeat. These quenelles are made on pieces of i. 

buttered white paper, shaping them to any desired form with a small knife while smoothing the — z 
surtaces ate ae quenelles are ce paplince! with truffles or Cig beef tongue, se 





Fic. 73. Fig. 74, 


former being preferable. The truffle decoration can be applied on to the quenelles either before ye 

after poaching; in the first case the decorations are slightly incrasted into the forcemeat after 
wetting them with egg-white; the quenelles are then plunged into boiling water with the paper | 
they have been molded on. If the quenelles are to be decorated after poaching then the pieces 
must be simply applied on, but first cover, or, better still, dampen one side with soft forcemeat so 
that they can adhere. Quenelles are sorebert in salted water without allowing it to boil. : 


ee | 
Molded.—Butter some plain, oval-shaped, quenelle molds, using slightly melted butter; ‘ t 
~ decorate the bottom of the mold the same as shown in the design. If required to be stuffed, then 





Fig. 75. Fia. 76. Fic. 76 A. 


place a layer of forcemeat on the decoration and over this any salpicon whatever (see salpicons, o. “' 
No. 165), and finish to fill the mold; smooth the tops, stand the molds ona baking pan, pour __ 
enough boiling water in to fill the pan to half the height of the molds and then poach in a slack — a 
oven. These molds are simply buttered, filled with forcemeat, smoothed on top and poached. E 


Pocket Quenelles.—Mix together half as much quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), as cream force- _ 
meat (No. 75), incorporating the latter gradually into the former, pass it all once more through a a } 
fine sieve, and fill a strong paper cornet with a third part of this forcemeat, push small quarter aan 4 
inch quenelles the shape of beads on toa buttered sheet, and then poach them in boiling, salted _ 





Fig. 78, Fia. 79. 


water. Color half of the remaining forcemeat with a little vegetal carmine, of a fine, light 
red He and put this also into a paper cornet, and force them through on to another but- 
ed sheet, letting these quenelles be channeled shaped, poach in salted, boiling water. Color the 
main de ¢ of the forcemeat with spinach green or vegetal green to obtain a light pistachio color, 
ma set them into a paper cornet also, and with it form oval shaped quenelles on to a buttered 
sueet, pour over some boiling, salted water, and let them poach for a few minutes. These quenelles — 
used as garnishings for soups, and for a variety of entrées. 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 209 


(155). TO MOLD QUENELLES WITH A SPOON, EITHER PLAIN, FILLED OR ROLLED IN 
FLOUR (Pour Mouler les Quenelles & la Cuillére, Simples,Fourrées ou Roulées & la Farine), 


Select two common, large and very thin iron soup spoons, put one of these into a small panful 

of hot water, and taking the other in the left hand fill the hollow center with the forcemeat, 

smooth the top with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, arranging it in such a man- 
ner that there is as much forcemeat above as below the level of the spoon, then remove the quenelles 

with the hot spoon sliding it beneath the forcemeat, then slip it at once on to the bottom of a 

_ buttered sautéing pan, without turning it over, so that the same side is on top. If the quenelles 
__are wanted filled, prepare a montglas composed of mushrooms, tongue, truffles or foies-gras; thicken 
it with some very compact reduced, good brown sauce, so that when cold the preparation can be 
divided into small parts, and rolled into olive shaped pieces in the hand; in this case, when the 


8 y )\\ i I. Se 





s f 
os ° 

spoon is filled with forcemeat, make a small hole with the finger on the surface so as to insert the 
montglas, salpicon or purée, cover over with more forcemeat, being careful that it is the same 
thickness all over the filling, smooth-it down nicely, and remove the quenelle with the hot spoon 
to slip it on to the bottom of a buttered sautéing pan without turning it over. Generally 
for one pound it will take eight large soup-spoonfuls, or sixteen dessert-spoons, or thirty-two 
tea-spoons, or sixty-four coffee-spoons. Poach these quenelles by pouring hot water into the 
sautéing pan beside the quenelles, and set the pan on the fire to bring it to boiling point; at the 
first boil, move it on one side, so that the water only simmers for six to fourteen minutes, accord- 
ing to their size. Lift the quenelles with a skimmer, and drain them on a cloth before using 
them. 






PSTN Natt ecatsteen eden? 


ge 





Fig, 81. Fia. 82. Fic. 83, Fig. $4. 


To Prepare Quenelles Rolled in Flowr.—Divide some game, chicken or fish forcemeat into 
pieces; roll each one on a flour dredged table into strings three-quarters of an inch in diameter; cut 
tliese into pieces three-quarters of an inch long; roll them on the table to give each one the shape 
of an olive or small egg half an inch in thickness and one inch in length. Larger ones can be 
made of Godiveau an inch and three-quarters long by five-eighths in thickness. Poach the quenelles 
in boiling water with salt added to.it. The Godiveau quenelles are poached by ranging ca 2 
equal distances on a baking tin covered with a sheet of paper, then placing itin a very slac 
oven. 


(156). TO RAISE, PARE AND POACH BREASTS OF POULTRY AND GAME (Pour Lever, Parer 
et Pocher les Filets de Volaille et de Gibier). 


Cut off the pinions from a clean, singed chicken, split the breast skin from one eed oe . oe 
other in the center, open it so as to disclose the flesh, then detach the breasts pth : or : es ; 
following the breast-bone, and leaving the minion fillets adhering to them, removing : 1em la as 
not needed. Take these breasts one by one, lay them the smoothest side uppermost on a A a ; 
press them down with the left hand and slip the blade of a knife between the flesh and the skin, 
so as to remove the latter at one pull without breaking it. Beat the breasts lightly ae a ests 
knife handle, trim them in round half hearts on one end, and pointed on the other ; remove 
inside nerve, and the fine skin from the minion fillet, beat these lightly and lay them on the 


210 | THE EPICUREAN. 


inside surface of the breasts, if found necessary to enlarge them, but unless the breasts are very 
small, they are not added. They can be interlarded either with slices of truffle or tongue, 
by cutting five or six incisions across the minion-fillet and garnishing them with either of these. 
Proceed exactly in the same manner for breasts of game. 

To Poach.—Place the breasts of poultry or game in a buttered sauteing pan; turn all the point 
toward the center and on them, place a sheet of buttered paper, put on the cover and set the pan 
in a slack oven leaving it in long enough to poach according to their size and quality. 


(157), TO CLEAN CURRANTS, MALAGA AND SMYRNA RAISINS (Pour Nettoyer les Raisins 
de Corinthe, les Raisins de Malaga et de Smyrne). 


Lay the currants on a table mixing in with them some flour, rub well together, then shake 
them through a coarse sieve, (No. 95) having eight meshes so that the small currant stalks 
pass through; wash well and dry them, then pick them over to free them of all the gravel stones 
which are generally to be found in these fruits, as well as the large stalks adhering to them. 

Smyrna (Sultana) raisins are cleaned the same as currants; abstain from washing them. Seed 
Malaga raisins and pick off the stalks. 


(158), RAVIOLES (Ravioles), 


Roll out some raviole paste (No. 147), very thin and in a perfect square; lay on top half an 
inch from the edge and one inch apart some chicken raviole forcemeat balls (No. 93), three-quarters 
of an inch in diameter, after the entire flat is covered, moisten it lightly by passing a brush around 
the forcemeat balls and then place another flat of paste on top, it to be the same thickness as the 






















































































=e ff ' ia 
LLU | conn ae 


ct i | 









































Fia. 85. Fic. 86. 


under one and about four inches wider. Press on to this upper paste between the balls of forcemeat 
with a ruler and the whole length of the flat and then across so that every one of the balls is en- 
closed in a small square; cut each of these out with a channeled wheel or jagger (Fig. 87). The 
jaggers are used for cutting lattice work bands for pies, or else replace it by a round channeled 
pastry cutter. Lay the cut pieces on a flour dredged saucepan lid and then drop them into boiling 
water to poach for about twelve minutes. 


(159). TO REDUCE AND STRAIN SAUCES THROUGH A TAMMY (Pour Réduire les Sauces et les 
Passer & Etamine), 























Mm ull Fia. 88. 

Nd 

The reason sauces are reduced is to give them the delicacy and succulence necessary to their 
finish, by incorporating into them fumets, stocks and the required condiments. The stocks that 











ELEMENTARY METHODS. 211 


are to be added to the sauces in order to reduce them should be as concentrated as possible 
so as to avoid any superfluous labor. In order to reduce a strained, despumated sauce, 
pour it into a flat saucepan having a thick bottom, set it on a brisk fire and let the sauce boil 
while stirring it well with a spatula, and pressing it down in a way that the sauce will fail to 
adhere to the bottom, and therefore burn. Mix in gradually the stock needed for its improvement, 
and continue to boil until it has acquired the necessary consistency and succulence, then take it 
off, and strain it through a tammy. | | 


(160), RICE FOR CROUSTADES AND RICE WITH OREAM (Riz Pour Croustades et riz & la Créme), 


Pick well four pounds of Carolina rice, put it into a newly tinned saucepan without washing 
it, adding a half pound piece of fresh pork, moisten it to three times its height with some water: 
heat the liquid on a moderate fire, and at the first boil, remove it to a slower one; twenty minutes 
after when the liquid is nearly all absorbed, cover the rice with a heavy buttered paper, close the 
saucepan, and set it at the opening of a slack oven, finish cooking the rice, drying it thoroughly, 
then remove the saucepan from the oven, take out the piece of pork, and work the rice while still 
in the saucepan, using a spatula for the purpose, then pound it again in a mortar so as to reduce it 
to a smooth paste. Lay this rice on a dampened marble slab, or a thick baking sheet, knead it 
with the hands so that it becomes smooth, mold it round shaped, and set it in a saucepan, buttered 
over with a brush, or else a mold proportionate to the size needed for the croustade. Press the 
rice down well, cover the top with a round sheet of buttered paper, and set it in the ice box for 
seven or eight hours, but not allowing the saucepan or mold to touch the ice. Unmold the rice 
after dipping the saucepan in hot water, cutting it out with a knife. 


Rice with Cream.—Blanch for a few moments half a pound of fine, picked and washed rice; 
drain and refresh, then put it back into the saucepan and moisten it with one quart of boiled 
milk in which a stick of vanilla has been infused. Let the liquid come again to a boil, cover the 
saucepan, and finish cooking the whole very slowly for forty minutes. When the rice is tender and 
has absorbed all the liquid, add toit a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, two ounces of fresh 
butter and a few spoonfuls of whipped cream. Sometimes a few egg-yolks are added to this rice, 
if so, they must be put in before any other of the ingredients, while the rice has all its heat, so 
that the eggs can cook while in the act of stirring them. 


(161), TO PREPARE RISSOLES (Pour Préparer les Rissoles), 

Rissoles are prepared in two different ways, the first, by rolling out some fine paste or 
clippings of puff paste, into a long, thin piece from ten to fourteen inches wide; wet the bottom 
edges of this paste, then lay on it four balls of an inch and a quarter in diameter for the two 
and three-quarter inch rissoles made of rissole preparation, and from two and three-eighths inches 
distance apart from each other, and two inches from the edges; refold the paste forward, so as to 
cover up the prepared balls, and fasten the paste down to six-eighths of an inch around the balls; 
press on the two layers of paste to adhere them together, then 
cut out the rissoles half circular with a channeled pastry-cutter 
either two and one-quarter, two and one-half or two and three- 
quarters inches in diameter. As soon as the rissoles of the first 
i id row are cut, lay them aside; pare the edges of the paste and 
begin the operation again; reduce the height of the cut out rissoles by pressing them down with 
the finger without misshaping them. These rissoles may now be breaded and dipped in egg, or left 
white; in the first case, lay them simply on a tin sheet covered with a white paper till ready to 
fry. In the second, place them at some distance apart on a floured cloth so that the paste cannot 
adhere to it. To prepare rissoles differently, roll out a thin flat, cut it into small round pieces with 
a channeled pastry-cutter either two and one-quarter, two and one-half or two and three-quarters 
inches in diameter, and on each one of these, lay a prepared rissole ball; wet the paste all round, 
and fold the piece of paste over the ball fastening the two edges together. Press the tops lightly 
with the fingers, keeping them a good shape, and lay the unbreaded ones on a floured cloth, and 
the breaded ones on white paper. 





Fia. 90. 


«162), TO OUT ROOTS WITH A SPOON AND A VEGETABLE CUTTER (Maniére de Couper les 
Racines & la Ouillare et & la Machine), 


Peel or scrape carrots, peel turnips, celery roots, turnip-cabbage or kohl-rabi, sweet potatoes 
or common potatoes; wash and keep them in- cold water until needed; all of these vegetables 


212 | .. THE EPICUREAN, 7) 755mm 



















including peeled truffles can be cut olive shaped or in rounds large or small according to requir oS 
ments (Fig. 91). The rounds should be from a quarter of an inch to one inch in diameter; the 
long ovals from half an inch to one and a quarter inches. The oval spoons for this purpose | 
may be either plain or channeled. When cutting vegetables with a spoon into either balls 
or olives dip the sharp end of the spoon into the thickest part of the root all through the depth 

and endeavor to remove the pieces as whole and perfect as possible. a 


= thi mf 
(Ae iM 







































































| ge a eas 6 oie 
Fig. 91. NN o> (t aN Fie. 9. B) 
ye ees 3 | 
ce < oe 


Vegetable Cutter.—(Fig. 92). This utensil is simple, practicaland useful. It is usedfor cutting 
vegetables and roots into various shapes for soups or garnishing; having them pass by pressure 
through the deep cutters made of steel and movable so they can be easily changed when so | 
desired. To proceed, first cut the roots into thin slices, all of equal thickness; place one of these 
on any one of the selected cutters; put this under the press an‘ bear heavily on it. The pee 4 
will fall through; pick out the imperfect ones; the others are ~*3d° ‘D uL2. 


(163), BLONDE AND BROWN ROUX (Roux wlond et brun), 


Roux is flour fried in butter and allowed to attain more or less color; it is used for thickening 
gravies, soup stocks and sauces; there are two kinds of roux, the blondeand the brown; the blonde 
is made as follows: Put into a saucepan to melt, one pound and two ounces of butter, add toib 
one pound of sifted flour and place the saucepan on a moderate fire to let it cook slowly while svir- 
ring until it becomes of a light blonde; this is used for velouté. For the brown, leave it on the fire 
or in a slack oven until it assumes a darker color; should it not be necessary to use it at once, 
pour it into a vessel, and employ it as needed, but when required for immediate use, take it from 
the fire, leave it in the pan and let it lose a few degrees of its heat before moistening it. For 
a velouté, dilute it with a white velouté stock, and a brown espagnole stock if needed for brown; 
the proportions for both velouté and espagnole being: one pound and two ounces of butter, one 
pound of flour and four quarts of either white or brown stock. 


(164), RUM FLAVORED WITH VANILLA; SPIRIT OF STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES AND 
APRICOTS (Rhum Vanillé; Esprit de Fraises, Framboises et Abricots), 


Rum flavored with Vanilla.—Put twelve vanilla beans cut in pieces in a quart bottle with a 
quarter of a pint of boiling water, twelve hours later fill up the bottle with good rum and leave it 
for ten days; it ~ill then be ready for use. 


Spirit of Strawberries, etc.—Crush thirty pounds of strawberries or raspberries; to this pulp 
add three qu.~“s of spirits of wine, put into an earthen crock, cover and leave to infuse for fif- 
teen days. Dist\l the fruits in an alembic in a bain-marie and continue the distillation until the 
liquor reaches twenty degrees. Spirit of apricots is made the same way only taking twenty pounds 
of fruit instead of thirty for each three quarts of spirit. The fruits are pressed through a sieve 
and the kernels broken and crushed in a mortar, then mixed in with the apricots. 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 213 


(165), SALPICON; HOW TO PREPARE (Salpicon; Maniére de le Préparer), 


Salpicons are prepared with cooked and cold meats and fish, red beef tongue, sweetbreads or 
beef palates; they are also made of chicken or game fillets, foies-gras, also with truffles, mushrooms. 
cépes, and besides these, oysters, lobsters, crawfish, ete. 


The characteristic of salpicon is that it is cut into small squares; they may be prepared with 
one kind of substance alone, but are generally mixed, for example: chickens, with red beef tongue, 
truffles or mushrooms; game, with foies-gras or truffles, and fish, with mushrooms and truffles. 
Salpicons are always thickened with a sauce corresponding to the nature of the meat, and in all 
eases it must be succulent and condensed. 


(166), TO SCALD (Echauder), 


In an analogous sense, scalding means to dip, to plunge in boiling water. A pig, a suckling 
pig, calf’s head and feet of either the calf or sheep, chicken’s legs and even whole poultry is scalded. 

To scald a pig is to detach the bristles adhering to its back by means of hot water, done by dip- 
ping it once or twice in hot water to facilitate pulling them out more readily, then scrape the 
surface with a knife; this operation must be performed as quickly as possible. The same to be 
done for calf’s feet and head, also for sheep and lamb’s trotters. Poultry is sometimes scalded, 
but this system of treatment should be completely abandoned and the feathers picked off dry, 
this being far superior to the scalding process; for by scalding poultry, especially young chickens 
they become partiaily cooked and the skin is apt to tear when being trussed; they also contract a 
bad taste and decompose quicker than those that are dry picked. 


(167). SIEVE-CLOTH OF DIFFERENT SIZE MESHES (Toile & Tamis de Différentes Grosseurs). 


Fig. $3 (four mesh) is used for broken and coarsely chopped almonds; Fig. 94 (six mesh) is used 
for Mocha sugar, finely chopped almonds and raisins; Fig. 95 (eight mesh) is used for bread 























aan 


| r 


HH 














EEHEH 


Weugwewes 
3 

prem 
RoW ow we) 






scans 


1 || 








Rast Pry 
Reber teeth 


on lwe lees 
Fia. 97. Fie. 98. 





erumbs; Fig. 96 (twelve mesh) is used for powdered macaroons, purées and marmalades; Fig. 97 
(sixteen mesh) is used for sugar, flour and purées; Fig. 98 (twenty-eight mesh) is used for icing 
sugar. A mesh indicates the number of holes to each linear inch. 


(168), SPICES, AROMATICS, AND SEASONINGS FOR COOKING PURPOSES (Epices, 
Aromates et Assaisonnements pour la Cuisine). 


The different articles employed as seasonings in kitchen work are comprised of salt, spices, 
aromatics, butter, fat, vinegar, oil and mustard. Salt is without exception the most indispensable 
seasoning; it removes the insipid taste from meats, vegetables and all other eatables. It excites 
the appetite and helps digestion, but of course must be used with judgment, for too much is apt 
to make it unhealthy. Coarse salt is the one to be used for cooking boiled meats and vegetables. 
Finely pulverized white salt is for table use and the one used in kitchens for seasoning is merely 
erushed and sifted purified salt. Spices are of different kinds; they are void of nutritious 


a 
cr 











































Q14 THE EPICURHAN = a4 i .. 


properties and are only for the purpose of improving the taste of various foods, They are composed 
of common black and white pepper, cayenne pepper; then come the weaker spices such as nutmeg, — 
cinnamon, cloves and coriander. For seasoning, common raw pepper, ground only when ready to. us 
use is both agreeable and a tonic, but as much cannot be said for pepper cooked in stews, sauces or 
soups, for it loses its aroma while cooking and therefore only the acridity remains. Peppers that do 4 
not deteroriate while cooking are paprika (a Hungarian product), and red pepper; these both give a i 
most agreeable flavor to stews and sauces, increasing as the cooking proceeds, and either of them 

are agreeable to the taste and a tonic without producing any irritating results. Bet, 


Aromatics.—Among the most aromatic plants used in the kitchen must be mentioned bay 
leaf, marjoram, chives, sage, thyme, wild thyme, savory, tarragon, pimpernel, chervil, pepper-cress, — " 
parsley, onion, shallot, garlic and horseradish root. Some of these are used in a dry state, others 
in a fresh, and both are employed in numerous preparations. They can be used in sautés, braizés, — 
in sauces and even in soups. The action of these aromatics on the general health is only i injurious — 4 
when indulged in injudiciously or in too large quantities, but when employed Bee a certain 

reserve, they are both healthy, stimulating and agreeable. 


Curry, the Best, comes from India.—An imitation curry i is aN of one ounce of coriander — 
seeds, two ounces of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce of cardamon seeds, one ounce salt, two — 
ounces of tumeric, one ounce ginger, half an ounce of mace anda third of an ounce of aattrctl 


Prepared Red Pepper is made with paprika (Hungarian red pepper), and Spanish sweet — a 
pimentos mixed in equal quantities. In case paprika cannot be had use quarter cayenne pepper 
and three-quarters Spanish pimentos. ae 
Spices.—Before grinding spices be careful that they are the freshest; grind each kind separate ae 3 
and sift them through a silk sieve, then mix thoroughly and put them into hermetically closed 


bottles, and set these in a cool place (they are only to be mixed when ready to use). — 


vf 
7 aaa 


Spices for Bread Stuffing.—Two ounces of sage, one ounce of marjoram, half an ounce on 
cayenne pepper, half an ounce of allspice, one ounce of thyme, two ounces of white peppers # 
quarter of an ounce of nutmeg, and half an ounce of finely minced green celery leaf. . 


Spices for Game Pies and Galantines.—One pound of cinnamon, one pound of nutmeg, one 
pound of cloves, one pound of whole peppers, three ounces of cayenne pepper, three ounces of — ha 
sweet Spanish pepper, three ounces of thyme and three ounces of bay leaf. These spices should be _ 
mixed in the proportion of one ounce to a pound of salt. 


Spices for General Use.—Two ounces of cinnamon, two ounces of nutmeg, two ounces of 
cloves, two ounces of white pepper, twelve ounces of prepared red pepper, four ounces of mace, 
two ounces of thyme, two ounces of sage, two ounces of marjoram, two ounces of [Osea One 
ounce of spices to two pounds of salt. 


Spices for Turtle Soup.—Two ounces of curry, half an ounce of thyme, two ounces dry 
mushrooms, half an ounce of sage, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce garden citron, 
half an ounce of basil, half an ounce marjoram, half of the peel of a chopped lemon, two ounces of — 
white pepper. These aromatics and spices are used when there is no time to prepare a stock, or 
when preserved turtle has to be used. Two ounces of spices to one pound of salt. 


Spices for Goose Liver Patties (Paté de foies gras).—Four ounces of nutmeg, four ounces of — 
cloves,four ounces of basil, four of marjoram, four of thyme, two and a half ounces of black pepper, 
three ounces of white pepper, two and one-third ounces of bay leaf, two and a half ounces of mace, 
two and a half ounces of ginger, two and a third of coriander seeds, one and two-thirds ounce One 
sweet pepper. One ounce of these mixed spices to every two pounds of salt. 


(169), STEARINE; HOW TO COAST AND COLOR IT (Stéarine; Maniére de la Couler et de la Colorer). 


Casting stearine in plaster molds is most simple and only requires a little attention. Tinned 
copper molds should be smooth in the inside and even polished. Put all the plaster molds in a vessel 
after separating each piece and leave them in tepid water for half an hour or longer according to 
their size. For tinned copper molds coat them first with a thin layer of stearine, then place another 
layer on this first one and continue until the stearine be sufficiently thick. The stearine must be melted 
in a bain-marie or on a slow fire, being careful to keep it stirred and also not to heat it too violently 
0 that it remains white, for if too greatly heated it turns yellow and thereby looses its beautiful white 
appearance; if this should happen it should only be used to coat the inside of large pieces or else 





oes t%.,, 
he 
:; 


‘ 


ELEMENTARY METHODS. 215 


for pads for filling the inside of borders. To cast stearine in plaster molds, take the molds from 
the water, drain them out for u moment and then fit each piece into its respective place; tie 
around firmly, fill up with the melted stearine and when a light crust has formed on the surface, 
break it and empty out the mold; let rest for one minute, put it back into the water, remove and 
unmold with the greatest care. Should the unmolded pieces fail to be smooth or else be creased, 
this is caused by the stearine not being sufficiently warm and the molds too cold, and that the 
stearine was cast too slowly. This is of great importance to observe and is most essential when 
perfection is required. When the objects intended for casting are frail, such as rings, arms, 
figures or other thin pieces, it will be advisable to insert thin wires into these parts before casting 
the stearine in the mold. After unmolding the subjects, wash the mold well, being careful that no 
particles of stearine remain in the joints. so that it can be thoroughly closed and the stearine 
cannot escape through these joints. Scrape the seams or moldings carefully. Stearine subjects 
ean be colored with one or more colors; for this purpose use water paints (tubes in preference). 
This kind is mostly employed for this work and to it add a little beef gall to enable the paint to 
adhere on to the greasy surface. Use a soft badger brush and proceed with care; always 
wait until the first coat be dry before applying another. With a little taste and skill subjects 
can be painted so that a great effect is produced, especially for the larger ones. When required to 
be bronzed, mix a few drops of gum arab with a little of the gall,add bronze powder and a little 
water ; stir well, keeping it the consistency of honey. Paint over the subject with a camel’s hair 
brush and if one coat be not sufficient then give another, adding a little more water. 











































































































Vegetable, chicken, 
crustacean, and game 
purées are strained 
through a tammy (Fig. 
99) in order to obtain 
them as fine as possible. 
To accomplish this it 
will require the service 
of two persons: take 
hold of the tammy on 
both sides, pour the 
purée into its hollow 
center, then have two 
wooden spoons one lay- 
ing in the other, and 
press them vigorously 
: 2 against the tammy, 
Fic. 99a. allowing the purée 















































216 THE EPICUREAN. 


to fall into a deep dish set underneath; this is easily accomplished and depends entirely upon the 


regular motion of the two spoons, as they must advance backward and forward without getting 
separated, or use-either one of the machines shown in Figs. 99a and 99b. 


(171), TO COOK SUGAR (Pour cuire le sucre). 

In former days sugars were less refined than in our time, therefore it was most important that 
they should undergo the operation of clarification, or, as the very word implies rid them of their 
impurities and make them perfectly clear. To-day this operation is almost useless, however, in 
case of necessity we will give the exact manner of proceeding, for it may sometimes be found 
useful. Put twenty pounds of sugar into a copper basin, melt it with two-thirds of its quantity of 
water, or one-half pint of water to each pound of sugar, set it on the fire, and when the scum 
begins to rise, throw in some egg-whites beaten up with water, the proportions being one white for 
each quart of water; do not stir it again, but let it rise to the surface twice, then pour in half a 
pint of clear water without eggs; let it rise a third time, and as it does so, remove from off the fire 
and skim it. Return it to one side of the fize to let it boil and drive the scum on one side of the 
basin, skim this off as quickly as it gathers. Soon the sugar will become very fine, clear and trans- 
parent, but if otherwise, then let it boil till it clarifies thoroughly and pass it through the flannel 
bag. Sugar clarified by this process is ready to be submitted to all kinds of cooking which we 
explain further on. The cooking of sugar is easily measured by a thermometer, but a clever work- 
man will quickly find it out by the mere touch. These various cookings take different names which 
we will now endeavor to explain. 


First—Lissé ou Petit Filet or Small Thread.—Cook the sugar, and in order to be sure that 
it has reached the first cooking, take out a little of the sugar with a spoon, dip the index finger 
in it and apply the finger to the thumb; separate the two fingers immediately, the sugar should 
then form a small thread, the thermometer marking two hundred and fifteen degrees Fahrenheit, 
(one hundred and one degrees Centigrade). 


Second—Grand Lissé or Large Thread.—At two hundred and seventeen degrees, the 
sugar stretches a little more between the fingers, it is now cooked to ates thread (one hundred 
and two degrees Centigrade). 


Third —Petit Perlé or Litile Pearl.—The sugar reaches this cooking - when ‘between the 
two fingers it stretches and forms a thread that breaks. The thermometer is then two hundred 
and twenty degrees (one hundred and five degrees Centigrade). 


Fourth—Grand Perlé or Large Pearl.—As soon as the sugar extends from one finger 
to the other without breaking it has reached large pearl, two hundred and twenty-two degrees 
Fahrenheit (one hundred and six Centigrade). 


Fifth—Au soufflé ou Glue, or the Blow.—Dip a skimmer into the sugar, knock it at 
once against the edges of the basin, blow through the skimmer so as to make the small bubbles fly 
out, and when they do so properly, the sugar has reached its degree of cooking. The thermometer 
now marks two hundred and thirty degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and ten degrees Centigrade). 


Siath—Petit Boulé or Small Ball.—Dip the finger first into cold water, then in the sugar, and 
immediately into water; if the sugar has reached to proper cooking or small ball, it can be rolled 
into a soft ball between the fingers, two hundred and thirty-six to two hundred and thirty-eight 
degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and fourteen to one hundred and fifteen degrees Centigrade). 


Seventh—Grand Boulé or Large Ball.—When the thermometer reaches two hundred and 
forty-six to two hundred and forty-eight degrees Fahrenheit or one hundred and nineteen to 
one hundred and twenty degrees Centigrade, then the ball instead of remaining soft when rolled 
between the fingers, becomes solid and hard, the sugar has now reached large ball. 


Highth—Petit Cassé or Small Crack.—Dip the tip of the finger into cold water, then 
into the sugar and rapidly into cold water again, so as to detach it from the finger; if it has 
reached its proper cooking it should break. The thermometer is now two hundred and ninety 
degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and forty-three degrees Centigrade). 


Ninth—Cassé or Crack.—Letting the sugar boil a few minutes longer, it will reach the 
crack; now dip the finger into cold water, then into the sugar, and again into the water, the 
sugar must break between the teeth without adhering to them. It reaches this degree when the 


thermometer is at three hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit (or one hundred and fifty-four degrees 
Centigrade). 









ELEMENTARY METHODS. 217 


Tenth. Grand Cassé or Large Crack or Caramel.—This last cooking is exceedingly delicate 
and requires the most particular care, so as to avoid having the sugar turn black which it is apt to 
do very easily. When reaching this last cooking, the sugar slightly loses its whiteness and 
assumes a shade scarcely perceptible to the eye; this is when the thermometer reaches three hundred 
degrees Farenheit, and it is now time to add to each twenty pounds of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice. Continue the cooking and when the thermometer reaches three hundred and forty- 
five to three hundred and fifty degrees Fahrenheit, then remove the basin quickly from the fire, 
and instantly pour its contents on a marble to get cold. 

These are the various degrees the cooking of sugar undergoes, practice alone makes perfect in 
this particular work, which can only be acquired after much study and attention. 


(172), SUGARS OF DIFFERENT COLORS, AND ICING SUGAR (Sucres de Différentes Couleurs et 
Sucre & glace Impalpable), 


For Pink, have powdered sugar from which icing sugar has been sifted, spread it on a baking- 
sheet covered with white paper, lay the tin on top of a very moderate fire, and pour into it sufficient 
carmine to give it the necessary color; mix and rub it slowly between the hands until the moisture 
contained in the carmine be entirely evaporated, then sift it through a sixteen mesh sieve 
(Fig. 97). . 

_ For Yellow.—Prepare the sugar the same as for the pink, using Breton vegetal yellow. 

For Orange.—The same as the pink, coloring with Breton vegetal orange, or yellow and red 
mixed to imitate orange. 

Lilac and Violet.—The same as the pink, coloring it with red and ultramarine blue, or else 
with Breton vegetal lilac or violet. 

Blue —Breton vegetal blue and ultramarine blue. 

Green.—Breton vegetal green, or else spinach green or watercress green. 

Icing Sugar.—There are very few cities where powdered sugar is unobtainable, also icing 
sugar (confectionery sugar), but in case it has to be prepared at home the following remarks will 
be found useful. Pound some lump sugar to the finest powder, pass it through an ordinary sieve. 
then through an icing sieve called a drum; this latter includes two sieves, one for passing ordinary 
sugar and another much finer for passing the icing sugar, meaning exceedingly fine powdered 
sugar almost impalpable. 


(173), BAND TART (Tourte a bande), 


Roll out on a floured table, a layer of foundation paste (No. 135), cut in this a round, eight 
inches in diameter, lay this round on a small baking-sheet, moisten the border with a brush, and 
apply on* this wet part, a puff-paste border having received six turns, five-eighths of an inch in 
thickness, one and one-half inches wide and twenty-six inches long; cut the two ends bias, fasten 





them together after slightly dampening them and set the tart aside ina cool place for fifteen 
minutes. Prepare an egg wash of well beaten whole eggs, or the yolks alone diluted in a little 
cold water, apply it to the border, prick the inside or else put in a small mold, to prevent it 
inflating, then set the tart in a hot oven the same as for a vol-au-vent for thirty or forty minutes. 
After removing it from the fire, detach it from the sheet, and lay it on a dish to keep warm. 


(174), EMPTY TARTS, ANCIENT STYLE (Tourtes a l’Ancienne). 
on paste eight inches in diameter; wet the 


Spread on a baking-sheet a layer of foundati 
and three- 


edges of this crust using a brush, and lay on the center a spherical shaped pad, four 
quarters in diameter and two and one-half high, made of paper and wrapped in slices of fat pork. 
Cover this pad with an upper layer of paste made with puff-paste clippings, fasten the upper and 


218 THE EPICUREAN. 


lower crusts together by pressing them down with the thumb, and cut away the surplus paste with 
the tip ofa small knife, following the outlines of the lower crust. Moisten the edges of the crust and. 
piace it on a band of six-turn puff paste (No. 147), an inch and a half wide by twenty-six inches 
long, and three-eighths of an inch thick; cut off the ends on the bias, wet them slightly and fasten 





Fia. 101. 


them together with the finger; channel the band lightly, decorate the dome with leaves cut from the 
paste, egg the surface, also the band, and bake the tart for thirty to forty minutes ina well heated, 


but not too hot oven. After removing the tart from the fire, cut the dome at the base so as to 


remove the pad; it is now ready to fill. 


(175), THICKENINGS FOR SOUPS, SAUCES AND STEWS (Liaisons pour Potages, Sauces et 
Ragotits), 7 


Thickening for Soups.—Put some egg-yolks into a bowl, beat them up with a wooden spoon 
and dilute with a few spoonfuls of good raw cream; some broth, or cold sauce; pass this through a 
sieve or tammy, add a dash of grated nutmeg and a few bits of fine butter. Boil well the soup, 
remove it to one side of the range and mix in the strained thickening; return it to the hot fire, to 
let cook without ceasing to stir and especially without letting it boil. 


For Sauces.—This thickening is composed of egg-yolks beaten and diluted with some cold 
broth or raw cream. In order to thicken the sauce, it should necessarily be boiling, then remove 
it from the hot fire and stir a spoonful or more of it into the thickening, then pour the rest of the 
thickening into the sauce and cook it while stirring over a slow fire, without permitting it to boil. 
All sauces thickened with eggs must afterward be strained through a tammy. 


Thickening or Liaison Prepared Ready to Use.—Twenty-five egg-yolks for one ,quart of 
cream; mix well together, pass it through a fine strainer and keep it in a pot (Fig. 171) in order 
to thicken sauces and stews as they are needed. 


Butter and Cream Thickening.—Incorporate some butter and cream, and just when ready 
to serve, stir it vigorously (do not heat it again), and serve it at once. 


Blood Thickening.—Reserve the blood of poultry or game, adding to it a little vinegar to 


prevent it from coagulating, then strain it through a sieve and stir it in gradually when needed to 
thicken a sauce. 


Arrowroot, Fecula and Cornstarch Thickening.—Dilute one or the other of these with some 


water, broth or cold milk; strain through a sieve, and pour it into the liquid, stirring it 
continuously. 


Thickening of Kneaded Butter.—Incorporate as much flour into butter as it will absorb to form. 
a soft paste; mix it in small parts in the sauce, stirring constantly until all the butter is melted. 


(176). TO LINE AND BAKE TIMBALE ORUSTS (Pour Foncer et Guire les Orotites & Timbales), 


Butter a plain timbale mold, five inches in diameter at the bottom, five and a quarter across 
the top and five and a half inches deep. If the timbale is to be decorated, apply some bits of 
sweetened noodle paste against the sides and bottom of the mold, dampen them with a brush 
dipped in water and then line the timbale with a paste not rolled out too thin. With a pastry 
cutter, two inches in diameter narrower than the mold, cut the paste from the bottom, but do not 
remove it; cover the whole surface of the paste with buttered white paper and fill in the empty 
space with common flour; dampen the edges, and cover the top first with a round piece of buttered. 
paper, and then with a layer of the same paste, fastening it down to the dampened sides. Ege 
over the surface, and let it rest for fifteen minutes in a cool place, then set the timbale on a round 
baking sheet and cook it for fifty minutes ina hot oven. After removing it, unmold, open the 
top (the end which before was the bottom), and lift up the round piece previously cut with the 









ELEMENTARY METHODS. 219 


pastry cutter, and which can easily be removed, then take out all the flour through this opening 
also the paper, and brush the inside twice over with egg-yolks, then lay the timbale for a very fow 
moments in a very hot oven so that it browns nicely, and range it on a dish to be garnished. 


as fast as they are done into clean water, drain; take them out again one by one, and remove with a 
small knife all those parts the brush failed to touch, then refresh them leaving them as little 
as possible in the water. Wipe the truffles on a cloth, and with the tip of a knife detach all the 
skin covering them, cutting it away as thinly as possible, put the truffles as fast as they are done 


into a saucepan with a well-fitting lid; put also the peelings into a saucepan, and keep them in a 
cool place while waiting to be used. 


(178), TO DRESS, SINGE AND TRUSS POULTRY AND GAME FOR ENTREES (Pour Habiller,. 
Flamber et Brider la Volaille et le Gibier & Plumes pour Entrées), 


After having dressed (drawn) and singed the pieces of poultry or game, remove the fork and 
breastbone, lifting it out through the neck without injuring the breasts; cut the legs below the 
joint, suppress the drumstick bones, and slip the leg into its place, 
having previously burned the top of the leg with alcohol so as to remove. 
the outer skin. To truss either capon, young turkey, pullet, chicken 
or guinea-fowl: first, have a trussing needle threaded with some strong 
string, pass it through one thigh to the other and in the joint of the 
thick part of the leg, then cross through the wing directing the needle 
toward the neck, and take up the skin of the neck while passing through 
it, fastening it down to the back; pass through the other wing, tighten 
the string so that the wings and thigh are well attached to the body of 
the fowl, and the breasts are quite prominent. Secondly, with the: 
needle cross through the back 
near the rump, direct the 
needle so that it passes the thickest part of the two legs, 
fasten the string strongly so that the thigh is well 
attached to the side, thrust the posterior inside, and tie 
it down with a few turns of a string. To prepare geese 
and tame ducks for entrées, suppress the wings and 
neck, singe and pick them, cut off the claws, truss 
the legs inside, and fasten them down by crossing 
through with the needle at the joints of the thighs and Fic. 104, 
the stumps of the wings; give them a rounded appear- 
ance, and push the posterior into the inside, and tie it firmly in place. For squabs, partridges and 
quails: pluck the feathers, singe and lightly pick them and draw them through the pouch; then 
truss them by making an incision in the rump, and tie them the same as the chickens. 








(179), TO DRESS, SINGE AND TRUSS POULTRY AND GAME FOR ROASTING. (Pour Habiller, 
Flamber et Brider la Volaille et le Gibier 4 Plumes pour Rétir), 


Dressing poultry and feathered game consists of first bleeding, then plucking out the feathers, 
drawing, singing and trussing them. To dress achicken it must first be singed lightly all over with 
Spirits of wine set afire, or over a gas-jet, in order to remove every vestige of feathers. When the 
poultry or game is singed, then pick out all the feather-stumps remaining in the skin. Burn off 
the skin from the legs to enable it to be taken off with a cloth. To singe small birds stick them 
simply on small skewers four or six at a time and pass them over a flame. For drawing a 
chicken cut on the back of the neck making a long aperture through which the pouch and wind 
pipe can be removed; put the index finger into the interior following the neck to detach the lungs: 
adhering to the inside; make a small opening next to the rump to empty the chicken entirely and 
then wipe out the insides, cut the skin below the head, chop the neck off on a level withthe breast 
chop off the feet and the end of the pinions and cross the wings over the back of the chicken. 
Thread a long piece of string into a large trussing needle, lay the chicken on the tabie, pressing it 


~ os . a Mrs: 


220 THE EPICUREAN. 9) 





down on its back, then with the open left hand take hold of the two thighs, so as to keep them 
held up at an equal height, pass through the flesh with the needle just below the drum-sticks, turn 
the chicken over on its side to thread it through the wings, running the needle through the breast _ 


skin; pull the string tight tie it on the side with a knot, and lay the chicken once more on its i ae 
back, press the thighs down again with the left hand and run the needle through above the drum-— a 





Fic. 105. Fia. 106, 


sticks, then turn the chicken over on its side, and introduce the needle across the carcass, and at 
a quarter of the length of the bird near the rump to the other side, to meet the other end of the 
string and then tie it into a knot (Fig. 106). In this manner the chicken is properly trussed, 
and both knots being on the same side, they are easily cut and the string pulled out when the 
chicken is cooked. Pheasants, partridges and pigeons are to be trussed the same way when in-- 
tended for roasting. After the poultry or game is trussed, lard it with thin slices of fresh pork, 





Fia. 107. 


Fie. 109. 





sufficiently large to cover the whole breast, pare them square shaped, score them lightly on one 
side, and lay them over the breast, fastening them on with a string as shown in Fig. 109. 


Wild Ducks (Canvas Backs, Red Heads, Black Heads, Mallard, Ruddy, Teal, etc.).—Select 
two fine red head ducks, pick them as far up as one inch from the head, being very careful 
not to tear the skin; singe and draw. In order to accomplish this, the skin must be cut the whole 
length of the neck from its beginning until the back of the head is reached, remove the pouch and 
windpipe, stick the finger in the neck far down in the inside to detach the lights from the bones 





Fia. 110. Fie. 111. 


and all adhering to the breast, make an incision above the rump and take out the gizzard drawing 
ae the whole of the insides; cut the neck where it begins at the carcass, cutting the skin 
S lar up a8 It 1s picked. Wipe the duck carefully, thrust the feet inside and season it 
‘nteriorly with salt and mignonette. Should the duck be gamy it must have the inside 
vashed out. Pick the feathers from the head and separate it where the neck finishes ; 

« out the eyes and place the head in the opening that was used for drawing the bird; truss the 


ick bringing the fee vard tt , : : ? ; 
iging the feet toward the front and passing the trussing needle threaded with string near 





ELEMENTARY METHODS. 221 


the first joint of the thigh next to the feet. Run the needle through the duck under the breast 
and then across the other thigh, pressing the duck down well so as to round well the breast bring 
the neck skin down on the back and run the needle on the bias through the pinion-bone at the 
same time through the neck skin to pass it through the other pinion and return from whence it 
started, pull the string tight and push the rump inward, running the needle through to keep it in 
place, and bringing it back to one inch from its starting point, passing it through the skin and 
through the head by the eyes, fasten the two ends of string together tying them firmly. 


(180). VOL-AU-VENT ORUST (Crotite de vol-au-vent), 

Prepare a puff paste with one pound of fine, dry flour and one pound of good butter, proceed- 
ing as for No. 146; give it six and a half turns, and when the paste is made, lay it on a floured 
baking tin, and set on top of it a model of tin or heavy cardboard having the exact dimensions 
desired for the vol-au-vent, cut the paste all around this with a small, heated knife, following the 
outlines of the model, but keeping the knife slightly inclined outward. As soon as the vol-au-vent 
is cut, turn it with one stroke upside down on to another dampened round baking sheet, being 






















































































































































































Fie. 112, 


careful not to injure its shape; groove the edges lightly with the back of a knife as represented in 
in the plate (Fig. 112); egg the surfaces over, and trace a ring, using the tip of a small knife an 
inch and a half from the edge, then in the center of this ring trace four or five. light incisions to 
form lozenges. Bake the vol-au-vent in a hot oven for thirty minutes or more according to its 
size, opening the oven as little as possible. When the paste is dry and a fine color, take it out, open 
- it by lifting up the center cover, and empty it of all the uncooked paste within, lay the vol-au-vent 
on to a dish, and keep it warm in the heater, not allowing the crust to get cold before using it. 
Small vol-au-vent crusts may be prepared the same way, using a three and a half inch pastry 
cutter to cut them with. 


(181). SMALL VOL-AU-VENT CRUST IN TWO PIECES (Petites crofites de vol-au-vent en deux pidces), 


Roll out with the rolling pin on a floured table, one pound of six-turn puff paste (No. 146), 
one quarter of an inch to three-eighths in thickness, let it rest for fifteen minutes, then 
cut from its surface six channeled or plain round pieces three and a half inches in diameter; as 
soon as this is done, remove the centers with a smooth pastry cutter two and a half inches in 
diameter; dipping it each time into hot water so as to make a clean cut, but it must be wiped dry 
before using. Cut up the clippings of paste, roll them to an 
eighth of an inch thick, and from this piece cut six round 
channeled or plain round under crusts three and a half inches 
in diameter, range these at regular distances on a wet baking Steeaennt 
sheet, moisten the edges of the paste with a brush, and lay on Fig, 114, 
top of each one, one of the prepared rings, taking them up 
delicately so as not to break them, and press lightly on them to fasten the edges together; egg the 
surfaces of the rings, and let them rest for ten minutes, then push the baking sheet into a well 
heated, but moderate oven to bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes; after removing, detach 
them from the tin, press the center of the paste down with the finger, and keep them warm for 
garnishing. Small vol-au-vents may be prepared the same way making them of one piece only. 





Fie. 113. 


(182), WHITE STOCK FOR MEATS AND VEGETABLES (Blanc pour cuisson de Viandes et Légumes). 


Have half a pound of chopped beef suet or marrow, and as much fresh fat pork, melt the 
whole in a saucepan, adding to it two minced carrots, two onions and one onion with six cloves in 
it, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bayleaf and as much thyme and a bit of mace. Add to it 
a teaspoonful of whole peppers, and put this on the fire to fry without coloring. Mix in well one 
ounce of flour, and dilute with three quarts of water, and four quarts of broth, salt, and the pulp 
of two lemons. This stock is used for cooking calf’s heads, lamb trotters and also for artichoke 
bottoms, cardoons and oyster plants. 


vA 





ie OEE IN  ULENSILLS. 


ROASTER AND SPITS (Rotisscire et broches), 
In large kitchens the only roaster possible is the one shown in Fig. 115 with its broad hearth, long 


a 
en 1 OWA |* bespee 
A 


i : 


aM 


HOTT 















































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TTT TAT 




































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Fie. 115. 


steam, electricity or hydraulic pressure can to be used advantageously to attain the same end. Fig.117, 
represents a roasting spit for small game, quails, woodcocks, thrush, ete. It is provided with six 
skewers; run the game on to one of 
these through the two leg bones; use 
as much as possible the different 
sides for different games, for instance 
one side for quails, partridges or 
thrush and the other three skewers 
for snipe, woodcock, plovers, bus- ; 
tards, etc. These spits are very Fig. 117. 
useful for large dinners, for eight 
quails can be put on each skewer or os 
forty-eight quails can be roasted Tre. 118. 


at once without having them too ; 
crowded. The length of the spit is sixty-eight inches and the length of each one of the six skewers 


is twenty inches. For cradle spit No. 116, the cut of meat to be roasted such as loin, the saddle 
“ (223) 
















224 THE EPICUREAN. 


is placed exactly in the center to regulate the weight evenly. The simple spit for poultry 
turkey, etc. is shown in Fig. 118. A spit being at times an impossibility, one is frequ 
obliged to have resource to the more simple roasters. The greatest objection to the 
fashioned shell roaster is that the spit did not turn alone, it had to be everlastin 


- 
. 





























































































































turned for if left the meat would certainly spoil; a great improvement on this is the turning 
spring spit to be wound up likea clock and strikes an alarm when slackening by the movable } 
balls of the fan striking on a gong (Fig. 119). There are other roasters having two spoons turning — 
at the same time as the spit feeding a small reservoir found on the top of the spit and through 
a shallow furrow perforated by small holes, the meat is 
continuously basted. The three pieces composing this 
oven are movable and can therefore be transported 
to any desirable place; the shell can easily be fastened 
on to the wall. There are also English spits adapted 
for all hearths (Fig. 120); it is easy to fasten it toa 
movable hearth fitting with the spit. These are run 
by clock work placed on top; the roasts are suspended 
perpendicularly and always turn in the same direction. 

Fig. 121 represents a wrought or sheet iron pan; 
the interior has a basket which is used for frying small 
fish, potatoes, croquettes, etc. Place inside the objects 
intended for frying and plunge the basket into the 
frying fat after it has attained the required heat; the 
articles being cooked and of a fine color, withdraw the 
basket to drain them properly. | 

Fig. 122 represents a copper case containing four high saucepans called bain-maries. * 
A bain-marie consists of a vessel filled with boiling water into which is placed another vessel con- _ 
taining the substances that are required to be heated. The materials placed in the second vessel _ 


we 
at ; 
ee 
AS 




















— 


Fig. 121. 




































git 
Hil] i F 
wt 
































7 ‘(a 


Fig. 122. Fig. 123. 


mest acquire the temperature of the boiling water and heat gradually and progressively and 
Biers. can be stopped at any time. Each saucepan should be ticketed with the name of the 
sauce 1t contains so that any sauce or soup can be selected without wasting time in searching for it. a 


é 





KITCHEN UTENSILS. 2257 


Fig. 123. The salamander and oven hithertofore used in kitchens to glaze or browm 
dishes presented difficulties on account of the attention and watchful care it necessarily” 
required. By means of the new gas salamander, fish can be almost instantaneously glazed whem 
covered with a well thickened or buttered sauce without any danger whatever of having the: 
sauce curdle. This salamander is lighted by gas and can be fastened to the wall at the back. 
of the range. It consists of two platforms, the upper one fixed and the lower one movable: 
and sufficiently big to place the largest dishes on it. Naturally the gas comes from the top 




















MAMMA 
Hf 








l 


Surety 





co 


sail Wet TT 


TANTRA ATTRA | ||| 
Tea AAT i 
: 


ZG, (a 
i | 



























































——$——————— 





Fig. 124. 


and itis easy to regulate its intensity by astop cock. Two minutes suffice to obtain a perfect glaz-- 
ing without having the bottom of the dish attain the slightest heat, thus the sauce cannot deteri-- 


orate whatever. It is an indispensable utensil and assists the cook greatly both as regards its use- 


fulness and speed. 
Fig. 124 is the reproduction of a very useful broiler, offering numerous 


facilities for various purposes. The broiling takes place in a metal case, it 
being provided with five gas tubes, having the sides bored with small holes, 
the gas projects into small bells to have it purified and then can be used for 
broiling without the annoyance of smell nor smoke. It is principally used for 
broiling toasts, canapés, or toasts for sandwiches; meats can also be broiled 
thereon such as cutlets, chops and beefsteaks. When the bottom is closed 
with a movable door, it can be used for roasting chickens, legs of mutton, 
beef, etc. The top part is useful for keeping things hot. All gas stoves can 
be regulated and moderated, according to the work, by modifying or in- 
creasing the volume of gas. 

Fig. 125 shows a singeing apparatus shaped like a horn; the largest part, from whence issues: 
the flame is covered with a very fine metallic cloth which causes the flame to become enlarged.. 
There is an opening on the other or thin end about an inch in diameter for thé purpose of: 
combining the air with the gas, forming a Bunsen burner. Poultry and game can be singed! 
without blackening the skin whatever. 






ST 


Fia, 125. 





Fie. 126. 


Fig. 126 isasteam table with covered dishes, cases and bain-maries. The square boxes 
are used for soups, stews, etc.; the covered dishes for large pieces of meat to be carved andi 
for entrées; the small steamers are for keeping the sauces and gravies. Instead of a dish on the: 
right, place a carving-board with a knife and fork. The inside is used for keeping the dishes hot 
before and after they are dressed. These steam tables are heated by steam or gas, and are: 
advantageously used either as a hot closet or as a substitute for a chafing dish. 


226 THH BHPICUREAN. 
BROILER AND RANGE (Grillade et Fourneau). 


The broiler shown below is most useful, for on it can be cooked all meats, either using charcoal, 
er embers, or gas. In olden times meats were broiled on the embers of a chimney hearth, fanning 
S, 


SX SQ WWW REE ES SSS... SS. Se 
= “As 
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SS 


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ul ul nN 


CY LY EYL 
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y 


my 
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bee 


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urease, 


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Fig. 127. 


continuously to keep the fire alive. For many years sliding broilers have been used and charcoal. 
With gas the broiling is done in a metal case, by a gas tube having the sides pierced with small 
holes. Although gas is 
very little used in kitchens 
still it deserves to be en- 
couraged; for not only 
does this style of broiling 
interest amateurs by its in- 
genuity, but it also has 
its particular advantages 
which are manifold, as the 
operation takes place with- 
out the slightest trouble 
and without having the 
meats give forth any 
smoke or  disagreable 
smell, for the heat attains 
the meat from the top and all the escaping fat. falls 
into a receptacle. Fig. 127 shows an improved range 
an explanation of which is unnecessary. 
















































































PORTABLE HEATER (Etuve Portative), 


This heater is used for transporting meats out- 











outside or keeping hot dishes to be served. It is ‘a “ eRe: 

heated with small cakes of prepared coal, made red- —_—SS 

hot in the hearth of the range, then put into a small wight 

sheet-iron box placed at the bottom of the heater. It can also be heated with an aleohol lamp. 


The heaters are made of tin and provided wich two gratings inside; they can be of any size (Fig.128). 





KITCHEN UTENSILS. 227 


STEAM KETTLE WITH DOUBLE JACKET (Marmite & Vapeur avec Double Fond. 

Fig. 129. A steam double bottom kettle either having a ball in the center or else a winding 
pipe. In this same shaped pot. all systems can be employed. The one shown on the figure has a 
double jacket; on top place a ring and in this a tinned basin; fill it half full of boiling water and 
use it for cooking ices; stocks, broths and consommés are cooked in those having a ball in the 
center, or else a winding pipe, but the ball is preferable. For cooking potatoes, lobsters, terrapin, 
ete., iron pots with rounded corners are used; on the bottom is an iron winding pipe furnished 
with holes; at the bottom is a hole for letting the water from the condensed stream run out, on 
top a hinged cover sufficiently heavy to close it hermetically, specially required for these kinds of 
pots. 


SAUTOIR, SAUCEPAN, SOUP POT, BRAZIERE (Sautoir, Casserole, Marmite, Braisiére), 


Fig. 130 represents a flat, thick copper saucepan, generally called a sautoir; they are also 
made of a thinner copper and are intended for sautéing fillets of chickens, escalops, cutlets, ete. 
It is necessary to have these of all sizes, large as well as small. 

Fig. 131 represents a copper saucepan 
tinned in the interior and furnished with a 
cover fitting inwardly. These also must be of 
all sizes according to the importance of the 
work to be executed. 


WL 
HH} 

































































Fig. 130. 

Fig. 182 represents a glazing saucepan; the edges of this one are only half as high as the 

ordinary saucepan; it is covered with a hollow cover fitting outside the pan; this is for the purpose 
of holding red hot coals or ember so to glaze and color the meats. 

















































































































Fic. 132. Fig. 133. : Fic. 134. 


Fig. 133 represents a soup pot for broths with side handles, with or without a faucet, serving 
to draw off the liquid. Copper pots are preferable to iron or earthen ones, the first give the 
broth or soup a dark color and the latter in time acquire a bad taste. 

Fig. 134 represents a braiziére or long stew pan having rounded ends and handles.. Its deep 
cover is made to hold hot embers, but this is not necessary if the braizing is done in the oven, then 
a well fitting cover will be found sufficient. 


FISH KETTLE (Poissonniére). 

Fig. 135 represents a fish kettle, these are either of copper or tin. The fish is placed on a 
metal sheet perforated with half inch holes, this has handles on both sides, it is put down into the 
bottom of the fish kettle and lifted again when the fish is cooked, thus avoiding the breaking of it. 

Fig. 1386 represents oblong shaped, deep baking pans having handles on each end. These 
pans are furnished with a perforated metal grate. Their raised edge cover (Fig. 136), can when 
turned upside down, also serve for a deep pan suitable for cooking flat fishes, fricandeaux, sweet- 


breads, ete. 





228 THE EPICUREAN. 


Fig. 137 represents a series of six small timbales with flat bottoms ranging from No. 1 to No. 
6. These timbales as shown in the figures are just half their actual size. 

Fig. 188 shows a series of convex molds for mousselines, No. 1 to No. 6. These molds like 
the flat bottomed ones are drawn half their proper size. They are to be placed on metal sheets 
perforated according to the size of the molds, supported by half inch high feet. 






























































































































































































































































BA | AG A 


B Aa 
=. A 
THN 1d |) a ; i 


= 
t 


] 


| 
Wee 
































Fia@. 139. 


Fig. 139 are various border molds, the first has a concave bottom and is specially used for 
dressing entrées of chicken and game fillets, quenelles, etc. The second is an oval mold with a 
flat bottom useful for large relevé borders. The third is a round bomb shaped mold with flaring 
sides, used for molding rice or forcemeat borders. The fourth is a plain bottom mold and the 
fifth is of an octagon shape with a flat bottom. 





KITCHEN UTENSILS. 229 


BASIN (Bassine), 


Basins are made of copper; as a general rule they are not tinned. In large kitchens there are 
some that are tinned and others that are not. If untinned they can also be used not only for 


























beating up egg whites, cooking fruits, and jellies, but also for blanching and cooking green vege- 
tables, such as spinach, green peas, string beans, etc., thereby retaining their natural color, giving 
them a more appetizing appearance. 


KITCHEN SIEVES (Tamis de Cuisine), 








Fig. 141. Fie. 143. 
It is impossible to perform any kitchen work without the use of large and small sieves. Sieves 
and eolanders are indispensable either for straining purées, forcemeats, gravies and broths, for 


draining purposes or when required to be laid aside for further use. 


f MOLDS (Les Moules), 


. The Figs. 144 and 145 represent two fancy jelly molds; they are cylindrical shaped, having 
a cover of the same size, hollow on top so that it can hold chopped ice. Many dessert molds are 
to be found in the market unprovided with covers, thereby making 
them useless and inconvenient. The Fig. 146 shows the cover of 
the mold seen upside down having a small piece adjusted to the 
center which fits into the cylinder of the mold. 


















































Mei. Fie. 145. Fic. 146, Fia. 147. 

Fig. 147 is a copper macédoine mold with a tinned double copper bottom. This double bottom 

is moyable and is kept at aneven distance from the sides and bottom of the mold by three catches 

attached to it. If the double bottom be removed it then can be used for asplcs of foies gras, 
unmolding it on toa jelly border having a support placed in the center. 


230 THE EPICUREAN. 





JUICE PRESS (Presse Sucs), 


These presses are for extracting all the liquid parts of fruits needed for preparing syrups and 
fruit jellies, such as currants, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and barberries, in fact all — 
fruits. This utensil should be made of wood for all red fruits lose their natural color when 
brought in contact with any metal. 


CREAM MOLDS (Moules & Créme). 


Made of tin or copper; they are fancy and cylindrical. Used for molding cold creams, pains 
of fruits, blanc manges, etc. (Fig. 148). . 













































































Fie. 149. 


JELLY AND BABA MOLDS (Moules & Gelée et Moules 4 Baba), ; 


Jelly molds are made both of copper, tinned in the inside, fancy and cylindrical, and are 
used for thick creams, blanc: manges, flamris, etc. Three or four are not too many to have 
in a kitchen. Baba molds are of copper, tin and earthen-ware ; they are cylindrical shaped and 
generally have deep furrows in them, but can be of any shape (Fig. 149). 


“PAIN” AND PUDDING CYLINDRICAL MOLDS (Moules Oylindriques & Pain et & Pouding). 


These are cylindrical shaped, tinned on the inside. Generally puddings are cooked in these 
molds, but they can also be used for rice or fruit pains, besides they-are very useful in a kitchen 
either for hot entrées or else molding hot or cold sweet dishes. Dome shaped molds can also be 
used to poach pains and puddings (Fig. 150). 
































Fie. 151. Fie. 152. 


Fig. 151 is a copper mold, tinned inside and outside, the double bottom is removable and is. 
kept at an even distance from the edges and bottom by three catches fastened to it. It can be 
used for cold dessert creams; the same mold without the double bottom, but having a cover fitted 
on the outside can be utilized for hot or cold puddings. : 


Fig. 152 represents a tin mold for making paste croustades and can also be used for. mola 
fice or hominy. 





Fie. 153. 
PIE MOLDS (Moules & Paté). : 
Hot pie molds are shallow and round; for cold pies they are round, oval or oblong; made of b 


tin or copper, but the tin ones answer the purpose. The round or oval ones are hinged (Fig. 153). 








KITCHEN UTENSILS. 231 


= WHIPS OR WHISKS USED FOR KITCHEN AND PASTRY (Fouets de Ouisine et de 


patisserie), 


Whips or whisks are made of wicker or tinned wire, several of them should be kept on hand 
as they are frequently used. The wicker ones are the best, 
especially for beating creams, but for whipping hot liquids, 
such as consommé, sweet or meat jellies, the wire ones 
are preferable. When beating the white of eggs be careful 
to observe that the tin on the whisks is partly worn off, stl F 
for the contact of egg-white with new tin causes it to curdle (Fig. 154). Some use whisks 
made of untinned brass wire, the wire not being as heavy as the other. 






area 
















KITOHEN KNIVES, CLEAVER, CAN-OPENER (Couteaux de Cuisine, Couperet, Ouvre-hoite), 


Have one large, strong. knife for chops, one large carving knife for cooked meats, one 
smaller one for the same purpose and one kitchen knife. It is always advisable to keep a few 







































































































































































Fria. 155. Fie. 156. Fie. 157. Fie@.. 158. Fie. 159. Fie. 160. Fie. 161. Fie. 162. 


well sharpened ones in reserve, either for carving or any other unforeseen occasion. Besides 
these there must be a channeled knife for turning vegetables and fruits. A knife for peeling 
and also a can-opener; it is most necessary to have a large and strong cleaver for 
Splitting bones, also to be used instead of a mallet for beating meats to flatten 
them according to one’s wants (Figs. 155 to 162). 


SUGAR DREDGER (Poudriére), 


Fig. 163 represents a sugar dredger containing about a pint. Tt is to be 
filled three-quarters full with powdered sugar and is used for sweetening pastry, 
fritters, omelets, etc. 














iisas | 8 
ee 


Fie. 163. 


LEG OF MUTTON HANDLE (Manche a Gigot), 


These handles are made of metal fitting on to the bone 
of a leg of mutton, lamb or ham; they assist the carver to turm 
a around and cut the meat according to necessity. The old style 

gee ones are silver plated and screwed on to the bone, but the new 
style are made of steel and are fitted on by means of a rubber ring placed inside which grasps the 
bone tightly without breaking it (Fig. 164). 





232 THE EPICUREAN. 





THERMOMETER (Thermométre). 
Fig. 165, a thermometer used for cooking sugar. These can be used for all kitchen pa 


cold chambers, refrigerators, etc. 


FAHRENHEIT. CENTIGRADES. 
Caramel Grand cassé 
FAHRENHEIT. 
TOO.is ge scuodeuesesseeee oe UORTCOs 
Burgundy Wine. ececove 45 ae The crack Cassé 
Ice Refrigerator........ 50 “ 
Small crack Petit cassé 
Bordeaux Wine........ 55 
Water for unmolding 
ICE CYCEAM........000e - 
3 Large ball _ _ Grand boulé 
_Dining Room.......00.. 62 “ ae ball The blow Petit bonlé Souffle ou glue 
Senegal Heat...........182 peer ee ce, Grand ios Perle 
Small thread pe SO faa Lisse Grand Lissé 


Boiling Water..........212 
Sugar Small Thread....215 “ 
: Long LE se Seal Gee 
“Pearl. cer meee 
< ‘Laree Pearl...... Oo: Stee 
*¢ =6The Blow..... owed eae 
“ THe Balls. .cesaeood 2) 
“ti Large Ball, .i5...246-", -** 
Ey Small Crack ..<..c00: 
+. The Crack.s'3 veasdl0 4 


M6’ >) COPA], ss0ccncdtoo 





COPPER eon FOR COOKING SUGAR WITH THERMOMETER ( (Bassine pour Cuire 
le Sucre au Thermométre), 

Fig. 166 x a small copper basin with a tin cover having a hole in its top suffi- 
ciently large to allow the thermometer to be inserted. 
The steam that condenses on the side of the cover is 
continually cleansing the sides of the basin, so that 
when the sugar is well stirred there is no necessity to 
eu it, only see that it continues to cook to the desired 

eat. 


a 
. 
c 


SYRUP GAUGE (Pése Sirop). 

After a person has the habit of cooking sugar he 
rarely requires a syrup gauge; the degree of cooking can 
be judged by simply touching it with the fingers, but 
; those who have not yet attained this proficiency need 
always use the syrup gauge. Place in a bottle and then plunge into the syrup this Fie. 167. 
glass instrument which rises or falls according to the thickness or thinness of the liquid thereby 
giving the exact degree of its cooking by the numbers marked on it (Fig. 167). 











KITCHEN UTENSILS. 233 


COLUMN BOX (Boite & Colonnes), 
Fig. 168 represents a column box. These tubes are for removing fanciful cuts of truffles, 
tongues, egg white, etc. The medium sized ones can be utilized for stoning Spanish 
olives; they are also used for coring apples and for rolling 
paper frills, for cutting vegetables, jardiniere, macédoine 
or Chartreuse, for bread crofitons, ete. 


LEMON SQUEEZER (Presse Citron), 


Fig. 169 represents a lemon-squeezer. This kind is 
MN == in common use and is used for squeezing lemons for ices, 
Fia, 168, jellies, ete. Fia. 169. 









STRAINER (CHINESE), AND MIXING POT FOR THICKENING (Passoire Chinois et Mélangeur 


pour Liaisons), 


Fig. 170 represents a sauce strainer commonly called Chinese; they are made of tin or 
metallictammy. It is necessary to have several sizes more or less fine ; 
they are either pointed or flat as shown in the design and are in constant 
use for sauces and gravies. 

Fig. 171 is a kind of pot containing a mixer. 
This is to stir egg-yolks and cream together for 
pouring it into sauces and ragouts for thickening; 
this is found especially handy for Hollandaise 
sauce. 


Pmmenered 
Fic. 170. Fic. 171. GRIDIRON (Gril), 


Fig. 172 represents a thin wire double gridiron; it is useful for toasting 
bread, crackers, broiling oysters, tomatoes, and sliced potatoes. Stronger 
and thicker gridirons are used for meats and fish, having just sufficient room 
to hold the articles. 








MEAT CHOPPER (Pour Hacher les Viandes), 
Fig. 173 is a perpendicular machine used for chopping meats; these are excellent, and are 






























































Fig. 173. 


well adapted for making Salisbury steaks or Hamburg steaks. They have this advantage that they 
‘cut the meats without cutting the nerves, so that the meat comes to the top lightly chopped and 
nerveless, 


FONTAGE OROUSTADE MOLD (Moule 4 Croustade Fontage), 








Fic. 174. 
Fig. 174 represents an iron in imitation of a small channeled timbale mold; it has a handle 
fourteen inches long, bent at the end and is furnished with a wooden handle. This mold is for 
the purpose of making fontage croustades (see Fontage, No. 907). 






















234 THE EPICU BREAN, 


KITCHEN FORK (Fonrshatys de Cuisine) 


Fig. 175 represents a kitchen fork, used for ines 
turning over ary broiled articles, sautés or else for fos 
tossing rice, ete. 


SKEWERS AND HATELETS (Brochettes et Hatelets). 


Kitchen skewers are of iron, used for supporti 7 
—————————— large pieces of meat when laid on the spit. Small gai 
Fic. 176. ae ; 
are run on to skewers; the blade — 
is flat, rounded on one end and 
pointed on the other. Table 
skewers are of white metal, 
silver or plated ware; they are . 
used when broiling kidneys or other meats which are fires on ‘them (Fig. 176). Hg. 17 
represents a hatelet and should not be confounded with a skewer. 


KITCHEN GRATER (Rape de Cuisine), 


An utensil made of tin having a semi-circular surface bored vite 
projecting holes on which is to be grated either bread, cheese or various — 
kinds of roots. There should always be two small graters in every — 
owt, spice box, one for grating nutmeg, the other for orange, lemon or Seville | 
Fic. 177, orange peel. The two latter ought to be enclosed in small separate 
boxes (Fig. 177). 


Fic. 176a. 





PASTE PINCHER (Pince & Pate). 


With this small pincher the crest of pies are pinched; it will be better to 
have two; one large and one small (Fig. 178). 


vas 


PASTRY BAG OR POCKET AND SOCKETS (Poche et Poche avec Douilles), | 


These pockets are made of unbleached duck; they are used for laying out meringues, choux, or oe 
else quenelle forcemeat; they are of the .greatest utility in kitchen and pastry work and itis 
advisable to have them of graduated sizes. The sockets are movable and are fitted in the 
bottom of the pocket before filling them. 


(ne EE) ae PR OT ee 6, 
WWaéaag o>. Sir se ee aden 
NEN eerrvecaerssestnececssnsessarseeeerere” 


‘Se, 
te 
Revo erusrtererecsseoreeveneeee CEnnereneeltt 


oe 
. 
SSA yeaa geeesersersecsraronnaseceter™ 






THE TENTH + 9€ THE NATURAL «SIZE. 





Fic. 179. Fie. 180. Fia. 181. 


Fig. 180 shows us the graduated different sizes reduced to the tenth of their proper dimensions; 
these are the ones most generally used for kitchen work and pastry. 


Fig. 181 is half the natural size and represents a section of a series of sockets the most 
used for all work. 





KITCHEN. UTENSILS. 235 


SOUFFLE PAN, AND PIE DISH (Casserole & Soufflé, et Plat & Tarte), 


These vessels are of plated ware or sterling silver, made in different shapes and different 
sizes; they are indispensable in a kitchen and are used principally for cooking soufflés, but they 
can also be used for baking purposes, for poaching creams by bain marie and in fact for serving 
vegetables or garnishings on the table (Fig. 182). 





Fig. 183. 


Pie Dish.—Made of English china that can be placed in the oven without any danger of 
cracking; they are most useful. In these dishes one can cook meat, chicken, game or fish pies, 
fruit pies, or puddings, or creams, they can also be used for soufflés. Thereis no end to their utility 
in a kitchen and there should always be plenty of different sizes. What makes them more 
useful and convenient is that they can very well be placed on the table with their contents as they 
were taken from the oven; for instance, anything baked, creams, puddings, etc. (Fig. 1838). 


KITCHEN BRUSHES (Pinceaux de Ouisine), 


Brushes will be found very useful in a kitchen; it is better to have several; they can be 
made by any one; merely tying turkeys’ tail feathers firmly together. Take the feathers, one by 
one, remove the feathers on each side, leaving only the end, then put about fifteen of these 





Fie. 184. Fie. 184a. 


together, tie with rows of strings, beginning on the feathered end and girding tightly; fasten at 
the other or upper end, tying the string firmly; now cut the lower end to equalize the quills; 
they do not last very long. Brushes can be purchased made of hair with a tin handle, much 
neater, stronger and easier to keep clean; these are shown in the Figs. 184 and 184a. 


OMELET, AND OYSTER STEW PAN (Poéle 4 Omelette, et Casserole pour les Huitres), 


Omelet Pan.—A black, iron pan, polished on the inside. These pans are used principally for 
omelets; they should never be washed; when coated or burned on the inside, scrape with a flexible 
knife all that sticks to the bottom, heat well and then rub 
with a cloth and some salt until perfectly clean. The 
French omelet pans are the best, both for shape and 
strength (Fig. 185). 





Fie. 185. Fia. 186. 


Oyster Stew Pan.—This saucepan is made of various sizes in tin with a copper bottom. It is 
furnished with a rounded cover perforated in the center with several small holes. The handle is 
very long. This saucepan is used for oysters and their liquor placed on the hot fire and when the 
steam escapes through the holes then remove it at once (Fig. 186). 


236 THE EPICUREAN. 


SPOONS (Cuilléres), 


Fig. 187, represents four spoons, soup or table, dessert, tea and coffee. . 

The approximative liquid capacity is: six soup or tablespoonfuls of liquid make a gill or 
forty-eight a quart. S 

Twelve dessertspoonfuls of liquid for a gill; eighteen teaspoonfuls and thirty-six coffecsieaae 
fuls. For sugar it requires eight tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar for a pound, sixteen dessert- 
spoonfuls, twenty-four teaspoonfuls and forty-eight coffee- 
spoonfuls. For flour it takes ten tablepoonfuls for a pound, 
twenty dessertspoonfuls, thirty teaspoonfuls and sixty coffee- 
spoonfuls. 


WEIGHTS AND MEASURES (Poids et Mesures), 


Various ways of obtaining weights and measures. 

Weight by Quarts.—One quart of water weighs two 
pounds and four ounces; one quart of milk two pounds and 
an ounce and a half; cream two pounds and one ounce; oil 
one pound and fourteen ounces; melted butter the same 
weight as oil; powdered sugar one pound nine ounces; rice 
one pound three ounces; flour one pound two ounces; bread- 
erumbs eleven ounces; horseradish or cocoanut twelve ounces; 
wheaten grits or Indian meal fifteen ounces; oatmeal thirteen 
ounces; semolina one pound seven ounces. 

Weight by Handfuls.—A handful of sugar weighs six 
ounces; flour four ounces; bread-crumbs two ounces; rice three 
ounces; herbs, parsley, etc., one ounce. . 

Weight by Coffeecups.—Six cupfuls of sugar weigh one ) ae 187. 
pound; nine of flour one pound; eight of Indian meal, one 
pound; six of rice one pound. Ten black coffeecupfuls of water make one quart. Six teacupfuls of 
water make one quart. Four breakfast cupfuls of water make one quart. 





REFRIGERATOR, ICE-BOX AND COLD ROOM (Réfrigérateur, Glaciére Timbre et Chambre froide). 


These refrigerators are to be kept full of ice so to reduce the temperature inwardly and to 
avoid inconvenience arising from the excessive heat of the atmosphere. A refrigerator as shown 























—<— 
SS 


f i) if = ZZ 
ae lle 
\ i ti | | | IN | | WY 
ee : AMA ) DO 


==> 
























































in the accompanying design is all that is necessary for a restaurant, etc. At a third of its 
height are placed wooden gratings to uphold the ice, underneath is to be found a sheet of 
ziic or galvanized sheet iron with a small gutter, at the end, between this and the sheet of iron is 
& space of six inches, The bottom parts of these ice-boxes are used for keeping either beef palates, 





" 


KITCHEN UTENSILS. 237 


eaif’s heads, sheep’s trotters, croquette preparations of all kinds, ete.; each compartment should 
be entirely separate from one another, having a special one for fish, one for poultry, one for game, 
one for cold meats, one for garnishings, ete. 


The Ice box is simply a box of an oblong shape sufficiently thick to be filled with a non- 
conducting material such as charcoal, sawdust, tow, or simply an hermetically empty space not 
to allow the air to pass through the box; they are lined inside with galvanized sheet iron or zine. 


T he cold room is of a more modern invention, the meats being hung up in the inside. Cooked 
meats, also different provisions requiring a cold temperature of forty-five to fifty degrees Fahren- 
heit, such as butter, milk or cream, rest on shelves or in drawers, without being in direct contact 
with the ice, for it is evident that the cold air surrounding these provisions does not contain the 
slightest moisture that might destroy their properties. Another advantage the cold room has is. 
that a quantity of cold entrées or sweet dishes already decorated with the jellies that are to be 
served will keep in perfect condition for a few days, while those placed directly on the ice do not 
afford the same security; however, each one has its own peculiar advantages and one must not 
be sacrificed for the other, on the coutrary in all large kitchens each one has its own place and 
both have become indispensable. 


MEAT-SAFE (Garde- Manger). 


This is a kind of round or square cage composed of metallic cloth ona framework of 
iron or wood, provided inside with several shelves; also hanging hooks to which can be hung 
meats, poultry and game. On the shelves are placed all the provisions that should be 
exposed to the air without incurring any danger of contact with flies. These meat-safes are 


- either suspended from the ceiling of the pantry by a pulley or else fastened to the wall outside a 


window; in both cases in order to have them accomplish their purpose they must be exposed to a 
thorough draught of air in as cool a placeas possible. If the meat safe is hung in a room it can be 
entirely open on top, if on the contrary it is fastened outside then the upper part must certainly 
have a slightly inclining roof so that no rain can penetrate the inside. These meat-safes are only 
useful where ice is scarce for ice-boxes, are far preferable under all circumstances. 


CENTIMETERS AND INCHES (Centimétres et Pouces). 


Centimetres. 





Fic. 191.—Rounds. 


HQQOO@OOOc 


Fie. 192.—Circles. 


Figs. 190 to 196 indicate the difference between the centimeter and the inch; the dimensions 
of circles, triangles, lozenges, ovals, rounds or squares all measured by the sixteenth of an inch 










aoe THE EPICUREAN. 


across the diameter, or on the length for ovals and lozenges. These figures bh . once 
exact idea of the proportions as they are explained in the different recipes, either for garni 
or salpicons or else for the diameter of sockets, column tubes, ete. 





Fic. 194.—Lozenges. 


Fic. 195.—Ovals. 


_aae 


Fig. 196.—Squares. 





BILL OF FARE HOLDER (Porte-Menn), 


The bill of fare is the programme of the dinner on 
which is found inscribed the dishes composing the meal. 
For ceremonious dinners the bills of fare are printed or 
else written on rich paper. They are laid on the table or 
fastened in a holder such as shown in Fig. 197; they are 
to be made either of silver or silver plate; if the bills of 
fare are printed, they are then usually laid between two 


cuests. 


COVERS FOR ROUND AND LONG DISHES (Cloches pour | 
Plats Ronds et Longs), 


Those for the kitchen are made of tin and are used to 
cover the dishes after they are dressed, either to keep them 
’n the hot closet or to carry to the dining-room; have always 
round and long ones for both large and small dishes. These 
require to be kept very clean and bright. 





SOUPS (Potages). 





=~ 


Aly 

















































































































- 
= 
= 
= 
_ 








Soup is the prelude of the dinner; it is a healthy, light and stimulating food, agreeing with 
every one, especially children and old people. The basis of soup is broth, and therefore it is on this 
article that one’s whole attention must be borne. There are two kinds of soup, fat and lean: they 
are divided into clear and thick; the garnishings for these soups are either composed of crusts, 
vegetables, creams of game or poultry, eggs, fish, quenelles, timbales, chiffonades, finely minced 
herbs, crustacean, farinaceous, etc. These two kinds of soups are divided into six chapters: First, 
Bisques; second, Consommés and Garnishings; third, Creams; fourth, Cosmopolitan or Mixed; fifth, 
Fish; sixth, Purées. Purées may be made into creams by using less butter and adding instead 
eream and egg-yolks, while creams can be turned into purées by suppressing the cream and 
egg-yolks, and stirring in, when ready to serve, a piece of fresh, fine butter. 


(184), FAT (La Graisse), 


Fat is insoluble in water, but melts by heat and floats on the surface of a liquid. As it is 


enveloped in the cells of a very fine indissoluble membrane, one part of the fat adheres always t 
the fibers, unless the cooking be too long and the cells are broken by the force of the boiling. Fat 


exists either separately in certain parts of animals, and in other parts it is interposed between the 
fibers; these last parts are always the most digestible and the most nourishing. 
Albumen (I Albumine).—Is of the same nature as the white of egg which contains scarcely 


2 


anything else than albumen; it is soluble in cold or tepid water and coagulates between one hundre 


and fifty to two hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit. Albumen abounds in the blood and itis found 
in every part of the flesh; it coagulates after being dissolved, and in broth forms what Is called 
scum, rising to the surface of liquids in which meats are cooked. The less blood the animal has 
lost, the more albumen there is, and as the blood contains much osmazome, the result will be that 
meat haying the most blood will produce a more savory soup than that which has lost a larger 
quantity. 
When 4 piece of either beef or mutton is needed rare, 1t must be plunged into boiling liquid, 
and being at once seized by the action of the heat, the albumen coagulates and encloses the osma- 


~ 


zome inside. Allow fifteen minutes for each pound of meat for a leg of mutton weighing six fo 


eight pounds; if boiled according to this time the meat will be found rare, unless the boiling has been 
(239) 


240 THE EPICUREAN. 



































too long. If on the contrary, this same piece of meat be put into cold water and is allowed to 
cook slowly, the albumen not coagulating at once, will let the osmazome escape into the liquid and 
the meats will be white and less juicy, but as nothing is lost, the broth will have gained by it in 
quality. “fae co 

Bones (Les os).—Are inorganic parts having much solidity besides being of a gelatineous = a 
nature; they contain considerable fat substance analogous to marrow, but this is but a part of 3 : 
their matter. Bones contain eight times more gelatin than meat. They are generally splitinto 


smaller pieces. 


(185), FIBRINE (La Fibrine). 


Fibrine is insoluble; it forms the base of the muscles or flesh. After meat has been very much — 
cooked, after it has boiled a long time, the remainder of it is almost pure fibrine. Fibrine is not — 
very nutritious, and when it has thoroughly exhausted its soluble: qualities, it becomes difficult to 
digest. Pure fibrine has no savor, it is insipid or flavorless and becomes yellow and brittle after _ 
drying. off ae | aa 
Gelatin (La Gélatine).—Gelatin is soluble in very hot or boiling water, in tepid water it swells — a . 
and dissolves only partially, and in cold water it softens without dissolving. It is colorless, insipid, BF 7 
inodorous and is susceptible to pass rapidly into a state of acetic fermentation. There is very met 
little nutrition in gelatin; when in sufficient quantity it gives the broth the peculiar quality of 
forming into ajelly when cold. Gelatin exists in all parts of the meat, but more profusely in 
gristle and bone. Ina pure state it is insipid. 


Osmazome (L'Osmazéme).—Soluble even when cold, this is a part of the flesh of the beef, of the Bris 
brain and of certain mushrooms. It is osmazome which gives to the broth itssavor, its aromaand _ 
its sapidity. It issupplied with an exceedingly stimulating property, exciting the appetite and help- 
ing considerably to facilitate digestion; it seems to exist only in the flesh and blood, and more abun- ion 
dantly in old cattle and in dark meats, than in young animals and white meat The properties of — eon 
osmazome are more perceptible when the meats are broiled or roasted; then the sapidity is stronger _ 
and the aroma more exhilarating. Poultry gives very little sapidity to broths unless they be old and 
very fat, for their grease has a more pronounced flavor than that found in quadrupeds. Gristle, fat 
and bones are entirely free of osmazome; in broths there is one part osmazome to seven parts — 
gelatin. . 


(186). CARE TO BE TAKEN WHILE PREPARING BROTH (Des Soins & Prendre pour Préparer le 
Bouillon), 


First.—Select the freshest meats procurable; do not wash, but remove all that is not of the 
very freshest; bone and tie up each piece separately leaving them as large as possible; split the 
bones and put them into a soup-pot with cold water and the meat. 


Second.—Heat and boil it up slowly to give the albumen time to dissolve in the liquid; 
it coagulates as soon as the liquid reaches one hundred and fifty degrees Fahrenheit, and rising 
to the surface brings with it all the impurities contained therein, which is called scum. 


Third.—Carefully remove this scum as quickly as it rises to the surface, and before 
the liquid boils, for after that the scum partly dissolves and the rest of it precipitates and destroys 
the transparency of the broth. When the broth is well skimmed, add salt, allspice, and vegetables; 
then keep it boiling as continuously and slowly as possible to prevent too much evaporation. 


(187), CLEAR BOUILLON (Bouillon Clair), 


There is nothing that resembles consommé more than clarified bouillon, and if it does not 
entirely take its place as regards quality, still it is often used instead. Clarified bouillon 
is in reality only an imitation of consommé, it is equally true that with care it can easily be 
prepared in excellent conditions, the principal one being to operate with good bouillon, either of 
chicken, beef or game, ete. To obtain clear bouillon, only lean meats must be used for clarification; 
in order to obtain four quarts of bouillon, have one pound of lean beef free of all fat and nerves, 
chop it finely, and mix in with it, two raw eggs and one pint of cold bouillon; place the strained 
bouillon on the fire, skimmed free of all its fat, and when it reaches boiling point, pour into it the 
ciarification, beating it well with a whip. As soon as the bouillon boils, keep it to the same degree 
of heat without allowing 1t to boil, for one hour; skim the fat off, season with salt and a little — 


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Soest 241 


sugar, and color it with caramel (No. 18), then remove and strain through a wet napkin stretched 
and fastened to the four legs of a kitchen stool (Fig. 99), or else a silk sieve. These bouillons are 
to be served with garnishings of Italian pastes and farinas, also garnishings of vegetables, etc., for 
various soups. 


(188), WHITE CHICKEN BOUILLON OR BROTH (Bouillon Blanc de Volaille), 


Have ten quarts of water in a soup pot; add to it three pounds of knuckle of veal, and 
trimmings, seven pounds of very fresh poultry. Boil, skim, and put in three quarters of a pound 
of carrots, half a pound of turnips, twelve ounces of leeks, two onions, one stuck with two cloves, 
two ounces of celery, one ounce of parsley roots, two bay leaves, salt, sixty grains of whole peppers; 
boil slowly and continuously for four hours, then strain through a silk sieve. If needed in a 
great hurry, boil six quarts of ordinary stock, have two fowls of three pounds each, after 
removing the breasts, chop the remainder of the fowls coarsely, put them in the stock, add four 

ounces of minced carrots and six ounces of leeks also minced, boil slowly for one hour; skim off 
the fat, season with salt, strain through a fine sieve or moistened napkin, and serve. The breasts 
are used for forcemeat or to clarify broth. 


(189). CLARIFIED CONSOMME (Consommé Olarifié). 

Proportions.—When the stock (No. 194a) is ready put five quarts of it into a soup pot, 
adding two pounds of lean meat and three pounds of cleansed and washed fowls. Boil it up 
slowly, and just when ready to come to a boil, carefully remove the scum arising on the 
surface and then add half a pound of roasted veal. Simmer slowly until the fowl is cooked, which 
will take from two and a half to three hours, lifting it out as soon as it is done so as to save the 
breasts which will be found useful for garnishings, purées, salads, sandwiches, ete.; return what 
remains of the fowls to the broth once again and continue boiling for half an hour longer, skim the 
fat off very carefully and mix in the clarification. 


Clarification.—-Trim off the fat, remove the nerves from apiece of beef sufficient to obtain 
two pounds after it is chopped up, and mix in with this chopped meat half a quart of cold stock 
(or water); pour this clarification into the broth, add two ounces of minced carrots, and two 
ounces of minced leeks; season with salt and color the soup with caramel (No. 18); keep the liquid 
in a boiling state for one hour. The consommé should be perfectly clear, sapid and tasty; strain it 
through a silk sieve or a fine napkin and use when needed, serve in cups, or in a soup tureen 


with any garnishing desired. 


Remoistening.—After the stock or consommé has been taken out of the pot, pour in sufficient 
water to have the meats entirely re-covered and boil again for three hours; remove all the fat 
and strain it through a napkin; do not salt this. This remoistening is used for diluting certain 
soups, and to moisten veal or chicken stock with which meat extract is made (see meat 
extract, No. 368). 


(190), CLARIFIED CHICKEN CONSOMME, (Consommé de Volaille Olarifié), 


Put into a soup-pot eight quarts of white chicken broth (No. 188), add two pounds of knuckle 

_of veal, one pound of chicken legs and pinions, then boil, skim, and put in four pounds of roasted, 

unbrowned chicken, two minced leeks, one medium sized minced carrot, one onion stuck with one 

clove, a little parsley and celery roots. Boil continually for four hours. Chop up very fine two 

pounds of veal, mix in with it two whole eggs, dilute with one quart of cold broth and stir this 

into the consommé, using a whip, adding two broken up chicken carcasses. Boil on a slow fire for 
one hour, salt it according to taste, and strain it through a silk sieve. 


(191), CLARIFIED FISH CONSOMME (Consommé de Poisson Olarifié), 


Butter the bottom of a saucepan, garnishing it with sliced onions, and place on top six pounds 
of fish bones, such as bass, perch or any other gelatinous fish, a bunch of celery, parsley, bay leaf, 
thyme, one pound of minced carrots, a pound and a half of leeks, and dilute with one quart of 
water. Cover the saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and let fall to a colorless glaze, then moisten 
with four quarts of hot water, boil, skim and let simmer for one hour, then strain through a sieve, 
and clarify the broth with the whites of four eggs and half a bottleful of white wine. 


ates 

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* 


242 THE EPICUREAN. 


(192), OLARIFIED GAME CONSOMME (Consommé de Gibier Clarifié). 


Butter the inside of a very thick saucepan, cover the bottom with sliced onions, and lay on top 
three pounds of broken knuckle of veal and eight pounds of game, such as partridges, quails, 
pheasants and young rabbit, also half a pound of legs and pinions or bits of poultry, moisten with 
a pint of stock, place it on a moderate fire, and cover the saucepan; let steam and fall to 
a glaze, then dilute with half bottle of white wine, and ten quarts of stock or water. Boil, then 
skim and season with salt and two pepper corns for each quart of liquid, two cloves, also half a 
pound of carrots, one ounce of parsley roots, half a pound of leeks, two ounces of celery, the whole 
minced. Remove all the bones from two very fresh young rabbits; put these in with the stock and 
boil all for four hours; strain through a sieve and put it back into the saucepan; chop up fine the 
flesh from the rabbits with as much lean beef meat, mix in with it two whole eggs and dilute with 
half a bottleful of white wine. Skim off all the fat from the broth and stir in the chopped rabbits, 
continuing stirring for one minute, then let come to a boil, move it from the hot fire, and boil 
slowly and unceasingly for one half hour more; after the consommé is very clear, strain it through 

a silk sieve or through a napkin. 


(193), OLARIFIED LENT VEGETABLE OONSOMME (Consommé maigre de Légumes Clarifié). 


Mince about three pounds of carrots and three pounds of turnips, one pound of the white of 
celery, one pound of onions, half a pound of parsley roots, a quarter of a pound of parsnips and a 
pound and a half of leeks. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, warm it and fry the vege- 
tables, then moisten with two quarts of water and reduce slowly until they fall into a glaze. Dilute 
it with ten quarts of water, season with salt, pepper, half an ounce of sugar and cloves, adding one 
pound of musbroom stalks, then boil slowly until the vegetables are well done without mashing, - 
and strain through a sieve. Return it to the fire and clarify the broth with the whites of four eggs 
and half a bottle of white wine. After it is very clear, strain it through a silk sieve or @ 
napkin. 


(194a), BEEF STOCK OR BROTH (Bouillon de Bouf), 


Proportion of Ingredients.—Ten quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of chicken legs, one 
and one quarter ounces of salt, six ounces of leeks, half ounce of soup celery, eight pounds 
of meat with bone, twenty grains or cloves of black pepper, six ounces of carrots, one half ounce 
of parsnip, one half clove of garlic (if desired), two whole cloves, three ounces turnips, four ounces 
of onions, one of which stuck with two cloves. . 

Put ten quarts of water into a stockpot, add eight pounds of beef meat (trimmings and bone), 
let there be at least two-thirds meat, being careful to have both meat and trimmings well freed 
of fat; and a quarter of a pound of scalded chicken legs, after removing the outer skin. Heat 
this up slowly so that it comes gradually to a boil, then skim carefully and add twenty grains of 
whole black peppers and one and one quarter ounces of salt. Put into a net six ounces of 
carrots, three ounces of turnips, six ounces of leeks, half an ounce of parsnips, one half an 
ounce of soup celery, and two ounces of onions in which two cloves should be stuck. Close the 
net and set it in the pot; after the vegetables have cooked for two hours, remove the net containing 
the vegetables and continue boiling the soup for two hours longer, making four hours in all. 
Take off all the fat from the surface and strain the soup either through a silk tammy or a napkin; 
pour it into another pot to make consommé; and in case it should be needed the following day 
only, pour it into vessels and set it to cool; the following is an economical way of doing so: set 
the vessels in a water reservoir supplied continually with cold water from melting ice in the 
refrigerators and brought through a pipe in the bottom of the tank, have a larger overflow pipe 
placed near the top so as to allow the water as it heats to flow off. 


(194b), PARTS OF BEEF USED FOR PREPARING BOUILLONS AND STOCKS, SEE FIG, 302 
(Parties du Bouf Servant & Faire les Bouillons et les Fonds, Voir Fig, 302), 


These various pieces are No. 2, the cheek jowl; No. 8, the neck: No. 4, the brisket; No. 5, the 
cross-ribs; No. 6, the shin; No. 8, the plate; No. 9, the navel; No. 10, the inside flank; No. 11, 
the thick flank; No. 17, the round bottom; No. 18, the leg. The shin is the bottom part of the 


hind quarter the nearest to the ankle bone. The gelatinous flesh of the shin renders it suitable 
for the preparation of stock, broths and jellies. 








SOUPS. ae 243 


(195), GAME, VEGETABLE, FISH AND CHICKEN STOCK, FOR THICK SOUPS (Fonds de Gibier, 
Légumes, Poisson et Volaille pour Potages Liés), 


In order to make thick stock use consommé of game, vegetables, fish or chicken before they 
are Clarified. Place half a pound of butter in a saucepan with half a pound of sifted flour of the 
best quality, let cook well ona slow fire without coloring when needed for vegetables, fish or 
chicken, but for game make a brown roux; for either one or the other dilute this roux with boiling 
broth (if the soup should bea chicken soup, chicken broth should be used to dilute the roux, if 
game soup then game broth should be used, fish with fish broth, for vegetable, vegetable broth). 
Use a whisk turning it rapidly, so as to avoid having lumps; stocks for soups should be kept rather 
thin, that is to say but little thickened and should be well despumated, the fat removed before 
passing through the tammy; return the saucepan to the fire, and stir continuously with a spatula 
from the bottom until the broth boils. Remove the saucepan and place it so that only one side of 
the contents cook slowly for one hour; skim and take off all the matter that swims on the sur- 
face until the stock be entirely free from fat, and other impurities floating on top arising from 
the clarification, then stram through a tammy or fine sieve, and use this stock for thick soups 
either of game, vegetables, fish or poultry. | 


(196), BISQUES (Bisques), 


An exquisite and delicious bisque. The ancient bisques made between the years 1700 and 1750, 
differed greatly from our modern bisques. They were more like stews than soups or potages and 
were prepared with squabs, quails, pullets and fish, the crawfish only serving asa garnish, and 
were basted over with acrawfish gravy. Bisques as they are made to-day, are simply a purée, 
thickened with rice, or thick stock, or wet crusts and accompanied by various garnishings. Bisques 
are divided into five classes: First, those made of clams, oysters or mussels; Second, crabs; 
Third, shrimps, Fourth, crawfish; Fifth, lobsters. They must be highly seasoned, although not 
containing much red pepper, rather clear than thick, slightly colored, and accompanied. by small, 
‘simple garnishings. 


(197), BISQUE OR PUREE OF CLAMS A LA HENDRIOK (Bisque ou Purée de Lucines a la 
Hendrick), 


Put sixty medium-sized opened clams into a pan, with their own juice; set it on the fire, 
‘and when they are very firm to the touch drain and pound the clams with their equal weight of 
cooked hominy; after all is well pounded and reduced to a paste, wet it with the clam juice 
poured off gently from the top, and some water in case the bisque be too thick, then pass it 
through a sieve or tammy and season with red pepper and very little salt if necessary, warm the 
Disque without boiling it, and just when ready to serve incorporate therein some fine butter and a 
little cream, garnish with sippets of bread fried in butter andsome small pike quenelles (No. 90). 


(198), BISQUE OF CRABS (Bisque de Crahes), 


Put twenty-four live crabs in cold water with a little salt, and leave them to soak for one hour, 
mince four ounces of carrot and the same quantity of onion, fry them in butter in a saucepan 
sufficiently large to contain all the crabs, add some parsley sprigs, thyme and bay leaf, season with 
salt, half a bottle of white wine and some white stock, then cover and cook for fifteen minutes, 
lift out the crabs, strain the broth, and set it aside to rest, pouring off the top twenty-five minutes 
later. Remove the shells from the crabs; pick out the lungs from both sides, wash each one 
separately in tepid water and suppress the small legs, then drain well and pound them to a paste 
with half their quantity of cooked rice, dilute this purée with some of the juice they were cooked in, 
‘drain through a sieve and then a tammy and mix in one pint of bechamel (No. 409). Season with 
salt and red pepper, heat up without boiling and just when ready to serve, incorporate therein a 
quarter of a pound of fine butter, stirring it well with a spoon until it be completely melted. 
Pour the very hot bisque into a soup tureen and serve separately a garnishing of pieces of bread 
eut into one quarter of an inch squares and fried in butter; divide them by putting six or eight 


in each separate soup-plate when serving. 


(199), BISQUE OF CRABS A LA STEVENS (Bisque de Orabes & la Stevens), 


Wash twenty-four live crabs in several waters; then drain them, fry half a pound minced 
onions in butter, adding a quarter of a pound of rice flour and then the crabs; moisten with half a 







244 THE HPICURBAN a " Bigs. : 

- 
bottleful of white wine and two quarts of broth; cook slowly in a covered saucepan for fifteen 
minutes, then lift out the crabs only, and strain the broth into another vessel, and leave it to. ; 
deposit its sediment. Remove the large shells from the crabs, also the small legs and lungs, then | a 
wash the crabs well in warm water, moving them around in the pan so as to free them of all — 
adhering sand; after draining them well, pound them in a mortar with the addition of a little butter; 
moisten them with the decanted stock and some other broth, should it be too thick; strain through | = 
a sieve or tammy, and return them to the saucepan. Heat to a boiling degree without actually 
‘letting it boil, warm it, then add some egg-yolks, cream and fine butter; strain again througha : 
tammy and serve the soup very hot with crusts of bread cut dice shaped, a quarter of an inch 
in size. 


(200), BISQUE OF CRABS, ORIENTAL (Bisque de Orabes & l’Orientale), 


Prepare and cook the crabs the same as for bisque of crabs (No. 198), have one pound of eis 
onions, cut them in halves through the center of the root and stalk, remove from each side of the 
halved onion, and on the bias, one quarter of an inch of the root and stalk; mince this up very __ 
fine, blanch, then drain and fry the pieces in butter, moistening them with one part of cream. — 
Pound well the crabs to reduce them to a paste and add six quarts of oatmeal previously cooked 

for thirty minutes in one quart of water. Add the onions, and when all is well mingled together, 

increase the quantity of bisque with the decanted crab juice and more broth, if the purée be too thick; 
strain through a sieve or tammy, return it to the fire, and heat it without boiling, and just when 
ready to serve, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Pour the soup into a very hot soup 
tureen and add a garnishing of crescent shaped quenelles, made of sweet potatoes (No. 317). 


(201), BISQUE OF CRAWFISH (Bisque d'Ecrevisses). 


Wash in several waters four dozen crawfish after removing the fins, the same as for bisque — 
Persigny (No. 204); put the crawfish into a saucepan, pouring over half a bottleful of white wine, 
four ounces of minced onions, the same quantity of finely minced carrots, a few sprigs of parsley, one _ 
bay leaf, as much thyme, salt, mignonette, a little red pepper and half a pint of. broth: cook all 
together for ten minutes with the cover on, tossing them several times in the meanwhile, then take 
them from off the fire and leave them standing for ten minutes longer in their broth; pour them 
into acolander to drain, and afterward select half of the finest, medium and equal sized ones; remove 
the tail ends from these, and the shells, and keep the meats aside for the garnishing, also half of the 
finest, but smallest shells from the head; stuff these with a red pike forcemeat finished with crawfish 
butter (for this see crawfish butter, No. 578), and with the remainder of the crawfish and the frag- 
ments make a bisque, pounding them with their equal quantity of rice; when all is well pounded, 
moisten with the broth they were cooked in and more plain broth, then strain through asieve and a 
tammy. Warm it well without boiling, and incorporate into it when ready to serve, a piece of 
crawfish butter; pour the soup into the tureen and garnish with the tails and bodies both cut 
lengthwise in two. Crawfish bisque should be colored slightly more than the shrimp bisque. Use for 
coloring bisques some orchanet warmed in clarified butter or any other greasy substance, or clear 
vegetal carmine. Breton makes an excellent coloring for bisques. 


(202). BISQUE OF CRAWFISH A LA BATELIERE (Bisque dEcrevisses & la Batelidre), 


After removing the fins from the middle of the tails as for A la Persigny (No. 204), wash 
forty-eight crawfish in several waters, drain them, mince some carrots, leeks, onions and celery 
root, fry them in butter and just on the eve of browning, mix in a quarter of a pound of flour; 
cook the flour for a few minutes, and then add the crawfish, some sprigs of parsley, two bay leaves, 
salt and mignonette, cover the saucepan and cook for fifteen minutes, tossing them several times, 
then drain. Pick out the meat from the tails, cut them in two and reserve them for the garnish- 
ing: pound the shells as well as the claws with twelve hard boiled egg-yolks, and when a good paste 
is obtained, moisten it with the thick stock, strained first through a sieve not too fine, and after- 
ward through a tammy; moisten again with fat or lean broth. Should the bisque be required for 
a lean dinner; warm it up without boiling and incorporate in half a pound of crawfish butter with 
cayenne and half a gill of Madeira wine. Set the crawfish tails into a soup tureen and pour the 
bisque over, and when serving the soup put into each plate six pieces of bread a quarter of an 
inch square, fried in butter. 





wo 8 OH Sy ee 245 


(203), BISQUE OF ORAWFISH A LA HUMBOLDT (Bisque d’forevisses & la Humboldt), 


Wash thoroughly in several waters, four dozen crawfish, after removing the fins from the 
middle of the tail (see bisque Persigny, No. 204), drain them, then fry in butter, some carrots, 
onions, leeks, celery and parsley roots all cut into small squares; moisten with half a bottleful of 
Rhine wine, the same quantity of broth, and season with salt, mignonette and cayenne, and a gill 
of tomato purée (No. 730), put this with the crawfish on the fire in a well covered saucepan and 
cook for fifteen minutes, tossing them frequently while cooking; then drain them, and pick out the 
meat from the tails. Pound the shells with double their quantity of rice and when all forms a 
paste, moisten with the broth strained through a fine sieve; season and warm up without boiling, 
and when ready to serve, mix in a quarter of a pound of crawfish butter. Place the crawfish tails 
with small pancakes, cut round, five-eighths of an inch in diameter, in the soup tureen and pour 
the bisque over. 


(204), BISQUE OF CRAWFISH A LA PERSIGNY (Bisque dEcrevisses dla Persigny), 


Remove the small black vein found in the center of the tail from forty-eight crawfish, using 
for this purpose either the tip of a knife, or else by twisting it round to the right, and pulling the 
fin away from the middle of the tail, and the vein attached to this will come off at the same time; 
it is most necessary to abstract this as it is always filled with sand. Wash the crawfish well; put 
them into a saucepan with a pint of broth, and the same quantity of white wine, salt, black pepper, 
two ounces of butter, two minced shallots, parsley and bay-leaf; boil for fifteen minutes, then drain 
and empty the bodies of twelve of the finest among them; pound the others to a fine paste, adding 
one quart of velouté sauce (No. 415), and one quart of broth; let boil again for fifteen minutes, 

_then add to the bisque, half a pound of sliced bread, buttered and browned in the oven; simmer 
for fifteen minutes longer; then strain first through a sieve, and then through a tammy. Heat it 
up once more, and just when ready to serve, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fine butter, 
with a little red pepper added; fill the empty bodies with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) and lobster or 
crawfish butter mixed; poach them in boiling water, and when done cut them lengthwise in two; 
have also a garnishing of crusts made with savarin, a quarter of an inch square, dried in the oven, 
and served separate. 


(205), BISQUE OF LOBSTER (Bisque de Homard), 


Plunge into boiling, salted water, twelve pounds of small, live, well washed lobsters; cook 
them for twenty-five minutes, then drain; break their shells, and extract allthemeat. Pound the 
lobster meat with its equal quantity of boiled rice; season with salt and red pepper, then dilute it 
with fat broth or lean, should the bisque be desired lean, strain through a sieve, and again through 
a tammy. Heat it up without allowing it to boil, add a pint of béchamel (No. 409), and half a 
pound of lobster butter (No. 580); stir well the bisque until the butter is thoroughly melted. Color 
a lobster bisque a deeper red than the crawfish. Crusts of brioche, a quarter of an inch square, 
and dried in the oven may be served at the same time. 


(206). BISQUE OF LOBSTER A LA BENOIST (Bisque de Homard & la Benoist). 


Mince yery fine one medium carrots, one leek and two onions, fry them in butter and moisten 
with fat broth, or lean, some parsley sprigs, thyme, bay leaf, garlic, salt and black pepper. At 
the first boil, put in with this, twelve pounds of raw, live, and washed lobsters, continue to boil 
for thirty minutes, then drain them, break the shells, remove all the meat, reserve that from the 
claws, and pound the remainder with its equal quantity of wheaten grits. Make a light roux 
with four ounces of butter and five ounces of flour, moisten it with some of the broth the lobsters 
were cooked in, boil, skim, add this to the lobster preparation. Heat it up all together, then strain 
through a sieve and afterward through a tammy, warm it up again and just when ready to serve 
and very hot, stir into the bisque a piece of lobster butter (No. 580), and a quart of double cream. 
Put a garnishing into the soup tureen and pour the soup over; serve as a garnishing the lobster 
meat from the claws cut into small Julienne (No. 318), and small cream forcemeat quenelles, 
laid through a cornet on a buttered tin, and poached in a little boiling water. 


(207), BISQUE OF LOBSTER A LA CAMBRIDGE (Bisque de Homard & la Cambridge). 


Select twelve pounds of small, live lobsters, eight of them in all} remove the claws and cook 
them apart in boiling, salted water for twenty-five minutes. Cut in slices crosswise the remainder 
of the lobsters, fry these pieces in butter on a hot fire, adding four tablespoonfuls of flour; when 


246 THE EPICUREAN. 


slightly colored, moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and two and a half quarts of broth, 
half a gill of brandy, salt and pepper. Cook all for fifteen minutes, then remove the meat from — 
the shells, pound it to a paste, and dilute it with its own broth; strain through a sieve, and after- 
ward through a tammy; mix in one quart of béchamel (No. 409) ; warm up without boiling, and 
just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with twelve raw egg-yolks diluted in a quart of cream, 
and when the soup thickens, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of lobster butter (No. 580). 
Put the following garnishing into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. Remove the meat from 
the boiled lobster claws, cut the red part of it in slices an eighth of an inch thick, and from these 
punch out rounds three-quarters of an inch in diameter, using a column tube for the purpose; also 
have small, round quenelles, half an inch in diameter, made from the fillets of a pike or whiting 
in the shape of round beads. : 


(208), BISQUE OF LOBSTER A LA PORTLAND (Bisque de Homard 4 la Portland), 


Cut twelve pounds of lobster lengthwise in two, break the claws, sprinkle over some butter, 
and cook them on a baking-sheet in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove them, and sup- 
press the largest shells, pound the meat with its equal quantity of plain boiled rice, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, and curry, and when all is well reduced to a paste, dilute it with broth; strain 
through a sieve and then a tammy, and warm up the soup without boiling; thicken it with twelve 
hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with four ounces of butter, and mix in also a pint of double cream, 
and serve as garnishing some mushrooms cut into fine Julienne and lobster quenelles. Put the 
soup into a tureen. 

Lobster Quenelles.—Cut one pound of cooked lobster meat in thin slices, add the coral and 
two ounces of butter; pound well and when reduced to a paste, take it from the mortar. Pound 
three quarters of a pound of panada, add gradually to it half a pound of butter, then the lobster ~ 
paste, three eggs, one after the other, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two tablespoons of Allemande 
sauce, test and rectify if necessary (No. 60). Roll this foreemeat to use for lobster quenelles, or 
else fill some sheeps’ casings with it to make lobster boudins. 


(209), BISQUE OR PUREE OF MUSSELS A LA OUTTING (Bisque ou Purée de Moules @ la 
Cutting. 

Clean well three gallons of raw mussels, scraping them with a knife; wash them several 
times in clean waters, and take them out with the hand soas not to disturb the sand settling at the 
bottom. Put them into a saucepan with minced onions, sprigs of parsley, pepper (no salt), and 
one pint of water; set the saucepan on the fire, and when they begin to get warm, toss them and 
return them to the fire; cover the pot, and toss them again frequently, until the mussels open and 
are well cooked, then take them off, and pick them from the shells, reserving about thirty of the 
smallest for the garnishing. Strain the juice, and let it rest so as to be able to pour off the top 
and avoid the sediment at the bottom, pound the mussels with as much pearl barley (half a pound) 
cooked in water, salt and butter, for three hours; moisten with the mussel gravy and water in case 
the soup be too thick; season with salt and red pepper, then strain all through a fine sieve or 
tammy; warm it without letting it boil, and just when ready to serve put in a piece of fresh butter, 
stirring it well into the soup with a spoon until it be melted. Garnish the soup with the thirty 
small mussels laid aside, and savarin crofitons, a quarter of an inch square and dried in 
the oven. All lean bisques are made exactly the same as the fat ones, only substituting fish broth 
for meat, and garnishing with milts, scallops of sauted eel fillets, pike, quenelles with crawfish 
butter, crawfish tails, and the hearts of oysters. The sieve used for the bisque or purée is a round 
strainer made so as to fit in the mortar having a flange on the edge to fit the outside of it, the 
pestle is used to force the substance to be passed through it. 


(210), BISQUE OR PUREE OF OYSTERS A LA WILSON (Bisque ou Purée d’Huitres & la Wilson) 


Put sixty medium sized oysters in a saucepan with their own juice, set it on a hot fire to poach 
them; then drain. Fry colorless in some butter, two medium shallots and the same quantity of 
onions; dredge some curry over, and moisten with some of the oyster juice, season with salt and 
red pepper. Pound the oysters, and when they are a firm paste, wet them with some of their 
juice, and strain them through a fine sieve or tammy, warm them without boiling, adding a thick- 
ening of potato flour diluted in cold water, one tablespoonful for each quart, and when ready to 
serve, mix in some cream and fine butter; make a garnishing of chopped oysters and mushrooms, 





SOUPS. 247 


mixing some bread-crumbs and fine herbs with these, and seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; 
add some raw egg-yolks and roll*this mixture into balls; lay them on a buttered baking sheet, and 
poach them in a slack oven. 


(211), BISQUE OF SHRIMPS A LA VERAGUA (Bisque de Orevettes a la Veragua), 


Cut into small three-sixteenth of an inch squares, two ounces of carrots, four ounces of onions and 
two ounces of celery root; put intoa saucepan six ounces of butter, fry therein the vegetables without 
browning and add three pounds of fresh, well washed shrimps, one bay leaf and several sprigs of 
parsley, also a bottleful of white wine and half a pound of chopped mushrooms. Boil for ten minutes, 
drain, remove the parsley and bay leaf, then shell a quarter of the shrimps, suppressing the tails, 
which must be laid aside for the garnishing, pound the rest of the shrimps with the shells of those 
the tails were taken from, add one-fourth of the same quantity of rice and moisten with the stock 
and broth; strain this purée through a sieve or tammy, add one pint of béchamel, season with salt 
and cayenne pepper; warm without boiling, and just when ready to serve, add to it a piece of fine 
butter and some cream. Serve the soup very hot, with Savarin crusts, five-eighths by one-eighth 
of an inch thick, and dried in the oven, also the shrimp tails cut into small squares. 


(212), BISQUE OF SHRIMPS A LA MELVILLE (Bisque de Crevettes a la Melville), 


Throw one pound of shrimps into boiling, unsalted water and cook them for five minutes, 
drain, then dredge them over with salt and toss in a colander to mix the salt in well; when cold, 
shell the tails and keep them for garnishing. Mince one carrot, one onion, a celery stalk and two 
leeks, fry these in butter with one bay leaf and moisten with three quarts of either fish or vege- 
table stock and half a botileful of wine; boil for twenty-five minutes, then put into this broth two 
pounds of raw shrimps and the shells of the tails reserved for the garnishing; boil for five minutes 
longer, then drain. Put into a stewpan two pounds of sliced bread. cover it with broth and let 
simmer for twenty minutes, then drain it on a sieve, pound the shrimps, add the moistened bread, 
and continue pounding until all is reduced to a paste, then dilute with the shrimp broth, and 
press all through a fine sieve, season and strain through a tammy. Heat it up till near the boiling 
point, but do not allow it to boil, then thicken with eight egg-yolks diluted with two gills of cream 
and a quarter of a pound of good butter, incorporating it vigorously into the bisque with a spoon, 
then pour it into a very hot tureen, with the shrimp tails cut into three or four pieces as a garn- 
ishing. 


(213), BISQUE OF SHRIMPS, BRETONNE (Bisque de Crevettes, Bretonne). 


Have three pounds of very fresh shrimps, throw them into boiling salted water and boil them 
for a few minutes, then drain and remove the shells from the largest ones, allowing three for each 
person; stuff these with pike forcemeat (No. 90), mixed with fine herbs; then poach them in boiling 
salted water, drain and keep them aside for garnishing the soup. Pound the remainder of the shrimps 
with a quarter of their quantity of crushed wheaten grits, previously cooked in water for thirty 
minutes, also twelve ounces of minced onion blanched and fried colorless in butter, adding to it 
six spoonfuls of flour diluted with milk, and cook all very slowly. Moisten the purée with broth, 
pass it through a sieve or tammy, put the purée into a saucepan, heat it to near the boiling point, 
then season with salt and cayenne pepper; when ready to serve add a piece of butter. Place the 
stuffed shrimp shells in the soup tureen, pour the soup over the purée and serve. 


(214), OONSOMME, GARNISHINGS OF (Consommé, garnitures pour). 


Garnishings of Consommés.—Consommé garnishings are served separately, by placing them 
in a tureen and pouring over sufficient of the soup to cover them; having only a little consommé in 
the tureen it is easier to serve the garnishing without breaking; divide equally into each plate and 
pour over some clear consommé; in case the garnishing is to be served in the same tureen as the 
soup (to be avoided as much as possible) first put the consommé into the tureen, and then the 
garnishing that all may be very hot. The garnishings we are about to describe may be served with 
either beef, chicken, game or fish consommé, for the fish using the lean garnishings. Consommés 
can also be thickened with potato fecula or arrowroot, by diluting these substances in a little cold 
water or broth, pour it into the consommé, stirring it all the time with a whip, boil, skim and then 
add a little Madeira or Xeres wine. These soups are called clear thick soups when they are 
thickened either with fecula or arrowroot. 


248 THE EPICUREAN. a 
































(215), CONSOMME A L'ADELINA (Consommé & I’Adélina), 


The admitted rule for all soups is one quart of soup for four persons. The garnishing con- 
sists of round chicken quenelles, three-sixteenths of an inch, poached in boiling water; green pea aS 
cooked in boiling, salted water, and carrots cut into balls the same size and shape, and cooked. in : 
white broth with a little sugar. Also timbales, twelve pieces in all. Dilute one-quarter of a po of E 
purée of chestnuts with a quarter of a pint of cream and four egg-yolks, salt, and nutmeg; butt 
some dome-shaped tartlet molds, put a round piece of truffle at the bottom, and then fill the molds ‘ 
with the above preparation; set one beside the other in a stewpan with boiling water reaching to ha ; 
their height, and poach them in a slack oven; when firm to the touch, unmold and place them i ina 
vegetable dish with the quenelles, carrots and green peas; pour over a little consommé, just sufficien: 
to cover, and serve separately a tureen of consommé, haying all very hot. Into each plate put some. ‘ 
of the contents of the vegetabie dish and tureen; this rule stands for all consommé garnishings, — 
that is, one timbale,-and a dozen and a half carrots, peas, and quenelles, inclusive. 


(216), CONSOMME A L’ANDALOUSE (Consommé & l’Andalouse), 


For this consommé prepare a garnishing composed of timbales, cucumber crescents, and small | 
quenelles. The timbales are made with a pint of tomato purée strained through a very fine sieve; 
mix into this ten raw egg-yolks and a gill of cream; season with salt and nutmeg. With thisprep- — 
aration fill some No. 2 timbale molds (Fig. 187), stand them in a sautoire containing boiling waterto 
reach to half their height and push into a slack oven; remove as soon as they are firm tothe ~ 
touch and let them rest for fifteen minutes, then divide each timbale into three parts. Place 
them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé. Pare some cucumbers to resemble crescent 
olives, blanch, drain, and cook in consommé. Have small quenelles made with chicken quenelle sale 
forcemeat (No. 89), and cream forcemeat (No. 75), half of each; push them through a pocket into — 
rounds in a buttered sautoire and poach in a little boiling salted water; add the cucumbers and 
quenelles to the timbales, and serve at the same time with a tureen full of consommé. 


(217). CONSOMME ANTONELLI, LEAN OR FAT (onsommé Antonelli, en Maigre ou en Gras) 


Use consommé of either chicken or fish, the following quantity being for twelve persons. 
Keep on the side of the range, three quarts of chicken consommé for fat, or fish broth for lean; 
thicken one or the other with three spoonfuls of tapioca, and cook for twenty-five minutes, skim-— ‘* ; 
ming it nicely. Choose sixteen raw truffles, having all of them, if possible, one inch in diameter; _ 
peel them and mark with a column tube of five-eighths of an inch, a place for a cover; cut off the — 
round cover using the tip of a small knife, and keep the piece aside; scoop out the insides with a __ 
vegetable spoon, leaving the surface as thin as possible, then salt them, and fill the empty space > 
with a purée of goose livers (foies-gras) mixed with cream and egg-yolks, or if intended for lean, — ; 
with a purée of salmon, béchamel, cream and egg-yolks. Close the opening with the piece laid _ 
aside, and arrange one beside the other in the bottom of a stewpan, just large enough to contain Bay: 
them; moisten them to half their height with consommé and Madeira, cover with buttered paper, _ 
and let the water boil, then place it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, so as to poach the pre- __ 
paration inside the truffies. Serve these truffles in a vegetable dish with sixteen fine cocks’ kid- 4 44 
neys if for fat, or if for lean, sixteen pike quenelles the same shape as the kidneys; serve also a — 
garnishing of small stars cut from noodle paste, blanched and cooked in consommé. 


end 4 
ae 
- San 


(218), CONSOMME BALZAC (Consommé Balzac), ‘ 


The garnishing for this consommé is composed of three kinds of timbales, chicken, shrimps, 
and green peas, and turnip balls. 


For the Chicken Timbales have half a pint of chicken purée, two spoonfuls of béchamel, six 
egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Jed 


for the Shrimp Timbales, half a pint of shrimp purée, two spoonfuls of béchamel, six egg: 
yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 


For the Green Pea Timbales, half a pint of purée of green peas (No. 261), two spoonfuls of F 
bechamel, six yolks, salt, pepper, andnutmeg. Butter twenty-four timbale molds (Fig. 137, No. 2) 
fill each eight with a different one of the compositions; stand them on a baking tin with boiling 
water, reaching to half their height and poach in a slack oven. When partly cooled off, unmold, 
pare and divide in three parts, cutting them across. Put them into a vegetable dish with a gar- 
nishing of turnip balls, blanched, and cooked in consommé till they have fallen toa glaze; send 
this garnishing to the table with a soup tureen full of consommé. oe 


i ty 


- 


— a 
ees 


SST Ee. 249 


(219), OONSOMME A LA BARIATENSKI (Consommé la Bariatenski), 


Make a pancake preparation (No. 3072), without sugar, and with it cook some very thin pan- 
cakes; when done cut from them pieces one and five-eighth inches long, by one and a half wide; 


_ spread over each piece a layer of chicken forcemeat, mixed with chopped mushrooms and parsley 


and a little anchovy paste; roll them up and lay them on a buttered baking pan; then poach them 
in a slack oven; prepare some marrow quenelles (No. 252), roll them into balls, five-eighths of an 


' inch in diameter, and poach them in boiling water; have also a pluche of chervil (No. 448). Serve 


the same as for a l’Adelina (No. 215), using chicken consommé. 


(220). CONSOMME A LA BERRY (Consommé a la Berry), 


Prepare for this consommé a garnishing composed of small soft eggs (No. 2949), and lozenges 
prepared as follows: Take a pint of purée of asparagus, beat in twelve egg-yolks, a little raw cream 
and seasoning; pour the preparation into buttered baking tins, the bottoms to be covered with a 
sheet of paper; poach in a slack oven and when cold turn them over on a napkin; remove the 
paper and cut up into small lozenges, one inch long, by half an inch wide; have also the same sized 
lozenges cut from both carrots and turnips, keeping them an eighth of an inch thick; blanch and 
cook separately in consommé and when done the liquid should be reduced to a glaze. Serve the 
garnishings in a separate tureen, accompanied by a tureen full of consommé. 


(221), CONSOMME A LA BRITANNIA (Consommé & 1a Britannia), 


Put on to boil three quarts of fish consommé, or chicken if needed for fat; thicken it with 
three spoonfuls of arrowroot diluted with cold broth, and remove it to one side. Pound the meat 
from a cooked lobster by breaking the shells and removing about three-quarters of a pound of its 
meat, and add to it half a pint of velouté (No. 415). Season and strain through a fine sieve, mix 
this with some chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), divide it into two parts, and color one of them 
delicate red; butter some long eight inch molds, by one and one-eighth square; fill half of each 
so as to form a triangle with the white forcemeat and the other half with the red, place the molds 
in a sautoire with water to half their height and poach them in a slack oven, then cut them in 
slices, a quarter of aninch wide. Have some asparagus tops, and serve the garnishing in a vege- 
table dish with a little consommé added, and a soup tureen of consommé separate. 


(222), CONSOMME CAREME, LEAN OR FAT (Consommé Caréme en. Maigre ou en Gras). 

For Fat.—Have chicken consommé, thickened with arrowroot, allowing one spoonful for 
each quart, and diluted in half a gill of Madeira wine. Spread over a sheet of buttered 
paper, a layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75), one-eighth of an inch thick, poach it in a slack 
oven, then let get cold, and cut it in lozenge-shaped pieces; prepare crusts half an inch square, or 
else round shaped six by one-eighth high, and fried in butter. A printanier composed of small 
vegetables, trimmed either with a column, or else a vegetable spoon, using carrots, turnips, and 
string-beans, blanch and cook them in white broth. 

For Lean.—Serve a fish consommé thickened with arrowroot and a garnishing composed 
of frog quenelles; a small printanier trimmed into squares, and each vegetable blanched 
separately and then cooked in fish consommé; crusts of bread cut round shaped, three-quarters 
of an inch in diameter, by an eighth of an inch in thickness, laid over with butter and browned 
in the oven. 

Frog Quenelles.—Pound one pound of frog’s meat and rub it through a sieve; lay it aside; 
pound also five ounces of rice flour panada (No. 122) with five ounces butter, adding it in three 
different parts. While still continuing to pound, season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg; add 
the frog meat, pound again, then rub it all forcibly through asieve. Mix in with itone whole egg, 
and two yolks, working them in well, then try the forcemeat and rectify it if necessary (see 
No. 60). With this forcemeat make some olive shaped quenelles, poach and add them to the rest 
of the garnishing. 


(223), CONSOMME COELESTINE (Consommé & la Oélestine), 


A garnishing of thin pancakes without sugar; spread over each pancake a layer of chicken force- 
meat and fine herbs; set on top and press down another pancake, add another layer of foreemeat and 
one more pancake, and press the whole lightly, then with a column tube cut out round pieces one 
and three-quarters inches in diameter; lay these on a buttered baking tin, one beside the other, and 


250 THE EPICUREAN. 


leave them inaslack oven for about ten minutes, just allowing them time enough to poach. 
Place the garnishing in a tureen with some iettuce cut in very fine thread-like fillets, blanched and 
cooked in consommé and a pluche of parsley (a few leaves of young, blanched parsley); serve at. 
the same time a soup tureen of consommé, 


(224), CONSOMME CHARMEL (Consommé Charmel), 


A garnishing of small timbales the shape of half an egg, and one inch in diameter, have some 
molds of this shape and size; butter the insides and set them on a tin sheet having inch high feet 
attached to it, place this on to a larger pan, the smaller one having holes bored in seven-eighths of 
an inch in diameter, and a space of a quarter of an inch between each. Prepare one pint of pigeon 
purée, adding to it half a pint of éspagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with Madeira, season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, and mingle all well together. Fill the molds with this preparation, pour 
water into the lower pan, a sufficient quantity to half the height of the molds, when set in the 
holes, and then poach them in a slow oven, unmold, and serve at the same time some braised 
sweetbreads pressed under a weight, cooled off and cut into three-eighth squares, then rewarmed in 
a little consommé; have also a few Julienne cut mushrooms. Serve this garnishing in a vegetable 
dish with a little consommé. Serve a soup tureen of consommé separate. 


(225). CONSOMME COLBERT, WITH POACHED EGGS (Consommé Colbert, aux coufs pochés), 


A garnishing of carrots and turnips cut into quarter of an inch balls, then blanched and 
cooked separately in white consommé. Green peas, lozenge-shaped string beans, and small sprigs. 
of cauliflower, and some very small eggs poached in water, salted and acidulated with vinegar, — 
crusts of bread-crumbs, six-eighths of an inch in diameter by one-eighth in thickness, masked with. 
butter and browned in the oven. 


(226). CONSOMME COMUS (Consommé Comus), 


A garnishing of small round rolls one and a quarter inches in diameter, made of ordinary 
bread dough; in these make an incision around the flat side and empty out the insides completely. 
Blanch some white cabbage leaves, suppressing the cores, drain them and cut them up very fine, 
then frythem in butter with quarter of its quantity of cooked ham cut in one eighth inch 
squares; moisten with a little white wine, add half its quantity of cooked, skinned and chopped up- 
sausages; set this into the rolls, cover the tops with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 
and poach them in a slack oven. Lay them on a vegetable dish round side up; and moisten 
with a little good consommé, then let simmer for a few minutes in the oven; add some cooked foies- 
gras (goose livers) cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, and some round five-eighth inch slices. 
of lettuce, blanched and cooked in consommé. Serve this with a soup tureen of consommé at the: 
same time. 


(227), CONSOMME OREAM OF PHEASANTS OR GAME (Consommé Oréme de Faisans ou Gibier), 


Choose small, fresh pullet eggs; boil them for four minutes in boiling water, then lay them in 
water to cool off and remove the shells; open them on one end with a tube half an inch in diameter 
from a column-box (Fig. 168), take out the yolks with a root-spoon, and empty them very carefully, 
slightly decreasing the thickness of the white; then fill each egg separately; using a cornet for the 
purpose, with cream pheasant forcemeat (No. 75), or other game forcemeat, as soon as each one 
is done, close the opening with the piece taken off, and set each one in anegg cup. Arrange these 
on the bottom of a deep stewpan containing a little boiling water, close the vessel, and poach the 
forcemeat, by putting the pan for fifteen minutes in a slack oven; dress the egg in a vegetable 


dish with a little consommé added, and serve at the same time a souptureen of game 
consommeé, 


(228), OONSOMME A LA DAUMONT (Consommé & la Daumont), 


A garnishing of dome-shaped timbales decorated with truffles and filled with a maréchale- 
mousseline (No. 912); then poach in a slow oven and serve separately, some blanched turnips and. 
cut into balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and cooked in white consommé; small pate 4 chou 
(No. 182) balls, with parmesan cheese, the size of green peas, and fried a fine color; some blanched 
chervil (pluche), and rice cooked in white broth. Serve all the garnishing in a vegetable dish, 
and a tureen of chicken consommé at the same time. 








SOUPS. | 251 


(229), CONSOMME A LA DUBARRY (Consommé & la Dubarry), 


A garnishing of timbales of mushrooms prepared as follows: half a pint of mushroom purée, 
half a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), eight egg-yolks and one whole egg; season with salt and 
nutmeg and fill with this some low and plain, buttered tartlet molds, poach them in a slow oven, 
unmold, and set them in a vegetable dish with some semolina quenelles, serve the garnishing 
separately with a soup tureen full of game consommé and crusts of bread, five-eighths by one-eighth 
of an inch, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. 

Semolina Quenelles.—Take a quarter of a pound of butter, beaten to a cream with eight raw 
egg-yolks, mixing them in gradually, add to it seven ounces of semolina, salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
and with this preparation make some small quenelles with coffeespoons; poach them slowly for 
thirty minutes. They should swell up to twice their original size. 


(230), CONSOMME A LA DUCHESS (Consommé & la Duchesse), 


The garnishing for this consommé is composed as foHows: prepare some bread-crumb crotitons. 
half an inch thick by five-eighths in length, slit them with the tip of a small knife at one-eighth of 
an inch from the edge all around; stand them on a baking sheet, pour over some melted butter 
and brown in a hot oven, remove, lift off the covers, scoop out the inside crumbs. Fry a little finely 
chopped onion in butter, dilute with some béchamel and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; 
add the same amount of finely chopped lobster meat, thicken with egg-yolks, cream, and a little. 
nutmeg; with this preparation fill the crusts, cover the tops with quenelle forcemeat finished with 
lobster butter and poacn in a slack oven, then dress. Serve some consommé in a separate soup 
tureen containing rice, blanched and cooked in consommé, and small green peas, cooked English. 
style (No. 2742). The croustades to be served separately at the same time as the consommé. 


(231). CONSOMME A L'IMPERATRICE (Consommé & 'Impératrice). 


For garnishing, have quenelles half-spherical shape, decorated with truffles and filled with a 
cream forcemeat, then poached in a slow oven; as soon as they are firm to the touch, unmold and 
set them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé and some rice cooked in white broth, some very 
small fresh green peas and rounds of red carrots, blanched and cooked in broth; serve separately 
a soup tureen of chicken consommeé. 


(232), CONSOMME. A LA FLORENTINE (Consommé & la Florentine), 


Make a garnishing of small stars cut from carrots each one an inch and a quarter in diameter 
by one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness; blanch them in boiling, salted water, then finish to cook 
in consommé; have also inch diameter rings made of chicken forcemeat (No. 62), colored with 
spinach green laid through a pocket on buttered tins, then poached in boiling, salted water; some- 
rounds cut from turnips three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness by three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter, blanched, cooked in consommé and reduced to a glaze; when the liquid has all evap- 
orated the turnips should be done. Serve these garnishings with a little consommé and at the 
same time a soup tureen of hot consommé. x 


(233), CONSOMME A LA FRANKLYN (onsommé & la Franklyn). 


The Garnishing.—Cut out some rounds with a three-sixteenth inch tube from some slices of 
carrots a quarter of an inch thick, and from the reddest part. Trim some slices of turnip the same, 
and punch out the same quantity of pieces as of carrot, using the same tube, and cook them in. 
consommé with a little sugar; also cook some string beans cut lozenge-shape in salted water and 
afterward drain all well. Butter some timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137); garnish them to three- 
quarters of their height with the vegetables, blending well the colors, and fill up the molds with a 
preparation made from a pint of cream, eight egg-yolks, two whole eggs, salt and nutmeg, strained 
through a sieve. Set these molds in a stewpan, with boiling water to cover half their height, and 
push them into a slack oven; when the preparation is poached remove them from the oven and set 
them away to cool. Unmold them and trim off the tops; then cut them through the center crosswise, 
and place them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé; also have pearl barley blanched and 
cooked in consommé; make some stars with bits of rolled-out puffed paste, a sixteenth of an 
inch in thickness, and baked in an almost cold oven, so that they remain white, these to be served. 
on a plate apart. Serve a soup tureen of consommé at the same time as the garnishing, and allow 


three stars to each plate of soup. 


952 Ret: THE EPICUREAN. a 


(934) CONSOMME A LA GRAMMONT (Consommé & la Grammont), an 


For the Garnishing.—A quarter of a pound of filbert nuts, pounded with half a pint of cream, — - 
when reduced to a paste, place this purée into a bowl with half a pint of supréme sauce (No.547), — 
and ten whites of eggs; season, press through a sieve and then set the preparation into buttered ; 
timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), lay them in a stewpan, one beside the other, with sufficient 
boiling water to cover half the height of the mold, then poach them in a slack oven, unmold, and 
cut them in two across the center; arrange them ina deep dish or vegetable dish; besprinkle 
them with a little consommé and have also game quenelles molded in molds, the size and shape 
of half a bird’s egg cut lengthwise; in order to make these quenelles, mix an equal quantity of 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with game and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and turnips cut into three- 


eighths of an inch balls, using either a vegetable or root spoon, then blanch and cook them iy 


white consommé. 


(235). CONSOMME A LA HONGROISE (Consommé & la Hongroise), 


For this consommé make some of the following biscuits: beat twelve egg-yolks in a vessel, 
whip the whites toa stiff froth and mix them lightly with the yolks; also four ounces of sifted 
flour and two ounces of grated parmesan; season with pepper, nutmeg and powdered parmesan; 
spread this evenly on a sheet of paper, keeping it three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and cook 
in aslack oven. Detach the paper, and cut the biscuit up into lozenges an inch and a half long 
by three-quarters of an inch in width. Besides this, prepare another garnishing with half a pint 
of onion purée and the same quantity of cream, six egg-whites, salt, paprika and nutmeg; with 
this fill some timbale molds (No. 4, Fig. 137), stand them in a sautoire, with boiling water, to half 
their height and poach in a slack oven; unmold, and divide in two, longitudinally. Make some 
small potato quenelles in the shape of a three-eighth of an inch ball; poach them in boiling 
salted water. Place the timbales and the quenelles in a vegetable dish, cover with consommé and 
serve the biscuits separately the same time as the soup. : 


Potato Quenelles.—Put ten ounces of purée of potatoes in a saucepan and dry thoroughly, 
working continuously to avoid burning. When it detaches from the pan, add to it two ounces of 
butter; season with salt and nutmeg, add four raw egg-yolks and mix in gradually two ounces of 
pate a chou (No. 182). 


(236), CONSOMME A LA LAGUIPIERRE (Consommé & la Laguipierre), 


For Garnishing.— Butter some small molds, shaped like small half pigeon’s eggs; fill these 
with a game mousse, made of any seasonable game; set them on tin sheets; poach in a slack oven, 
unmold, and serve them in a separate vegetable dish, adding some oval shaped chicken quenelles, 
laid on a buttered tin through a bag, and poached in a little boiling water in a slow oven. Serve 
separately small one-quarter inch square crusts made of twelve turns of puff paste or trimmings 
and baked white in a very slow oven. 


(237), CONSOMME A LA NOAILLES (onsommé & la Noailles). 


A garnishing made of artichoke bottoms, two inches in diameter; remove the centers, using 
a half inch tube for the purpose, then divide the rest into sixteen equal sized pieces, and pare 
them nicely; put them into a vegetable dish with a little consommé, also some consisteut Royal 
garnishing (No. 241), cut into quarter of an inch squares. Have also round timbales made of 
game, hare, or leveret, or any other seasonable game; half a pint of game purée, half a pint of 
éspagnole sauce with tomatoes (No. 414); salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five whole or twelve yolks; 
butter the insides of the molds, fill them with the preparation, and poach them in a slow oven; 
when firm to the touch, unmold and set them in a vegetable dish with the royal cream cut in 
Squares, and the artichoke bottoms. Serve very hot, and at the same time send a soup tureen of 


game consommé slightly thickened with arrowroot; adding just when ready to serve a little good 
Xeres or Madeira wine. 


(238), CONSOMME A LA PLUMEREY (onsommé & la Plumerey). 

For the Garnishing.—Have some lettuce soaked in cold water, then washed in several waters 
to remove all the adhering sand, blanch in plenty of water, cool off, and press out all the 
liquid, bend the leaves over, one third of their length at the top, trim the stalks nicely, braize 
them for one hour and serve them ina vegetable dish after dividing them in two, lengthwise. 
Have half a pint of purée of duck; the same quantity of supréme sauce (No. 547), half a pint of 





SOUPS. 253 


bouillon, twelve raw egg-yolks, and two whole eggs, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then 
press it through a tammy, and fill some buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137,), with this 
preparation; poach them in a slack oven, unmold, cut in two crosswise, and add them to the 
lettuce. Orusts of bread five-eighths of an inch square by one-eighth of an inch thick, sprinkled over 
with butter, and browned in the oven; serve these separately; send to the table at the same time a 
tureen of chicken consommé; serve in each plate, half a lettuce, and one slice or half a timbale, 
pour over some consommé and add three crofitons for each person. 


(239), CONSOMME PRINTANIER WITH QUENELLES (Consommé Printanier aux Quenelles), 


Put two quarts of clarified consommé on to boil. Prepare a garnishing composed of tender 
carrots, turnips, celery roots, cucumbers, asparagus tops, string beans cut lozenge-shape, also 
small flowerets of cauliflower; cut the roots either olive or ball-shape, using a vegetable-spoon, 
blanch them in salted water, then let fall toa glaze several times in a little broth until they 
are cooked, then put them as soon as done into the soup tureen, adding the cauliflower, asparagus 
and some green peas previously boiled in salted water. Besprinkle this garnishing with a pinch of 
sugar, pour the broth over, and finish with small quenelles, three-eighths of an inch in diameter, 
having a quarter of the quantity of the other garnishing. Serve the soup with slices of toasted 
bread instead of the quenelles; when needed for a plain printaniér, and for a consommé printaniér 
royale, employ the same garnishings, adding slices of timbales royale (No. 241). 


(240), CONSOMME A LA REMUSAT (Consommé ala Rémusat), 


Mince up fine one small white onion, one carrot and one turnip, half a celery-knob, and the 
white part of a leek; fry these very slowly with some butter, season, and moisten with a little 
broth, then cook them covered, letting the liquid fall several times toa glaze, and until the 
vegetables are well done; press them through a tammy, and put this purée into a bowl. For one 
pint, add ten raw egg-yolks and one whole one, half a pint of cream, a pinch of sugar, salt and 
nutmeg; pour this preparation into buttered timbale molds (No. 4, Fig. 187) and poach by 
putting them into a stewpan with boiling water to half their height. When done cut each timbale 
in_two through the center crossways and place them in a vegetable dish with some small chicken 
forcemeat quenelles, colored white, red and green, and pushed through a cornet on a baking 
sheet into the shape of beads, a quarter of an inch in diameter, having the same quantity of each 
color, and poach them in boiling salted water; drain them, and add them to the slices of timbale; 
serve separately and at the same time a soup tureen of chicken consommé. 


(241), CONSOMME A LA ROYAL (onsommé & la Royale), 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), then fill them with the following preparation, 
mix well one pint of cream, eight egg-yolks, two whole eggs, salt and nutmeg; strain it through a 
sieve, and fill up the timbales, put them into a stewpan with boiling water reaching to half their 
height, and poach them in a slack oven, until firm to the touch. Remove them from the oven, 
let get partially cold, then unmold, and cut them crosswise through the center; put them into a 
separate vegetable dish with some white of chicken, mushrooms and truffles cut into small pieces 
an eighth of an inch square by five-eighths long. Serve at the same time a soup tureen of 
chicken consommé. 


(242) CONSOMME A LA SEVIGNE (Consommé & la Sévigné). 

For the garnishing, butter some timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 187), and fill them with the following 
preparation: one pint of the purée of the white of chicken made with equal parts of chicken and rice, 
cooked in consommé, the whole passed through a sieve, and moistened with one gill of supreme 
sauce (No. 547), eight egg-yolks, and one gill of cream, seasoning with salt and nutmeg. Set the 
timbales in a sautoire with boiling water reaching to half their height, and poach them in a slack 
oven; then let get partially cold, and unmold; and cut them crosswise through the center. Lay 
them in a vegetable dish with a little good consommé and some boiled green peas, serve separately, 
but at the same time, a soup tureen of chicken consommé. 


(248), CONSOMME A LA SOUVERAINE (Consommé & la Souveraine), 


A garnishing of timbales. Make a preparation with one pint of mushroom purée, two gills of 
éspagnole sauce with essence of game (No. 414), ten egg-yolks, salt, red pepper, and nutmeg; fill 
some dome-shaped molds with this, and poach them in a slack oven, placing the molds in a stew- 


vere . 


254 | THE EPICUREAN. — 





pan with boiling water cane to half their height; when done, which means firm to the tu, 
unmold them, and put them into a vegetable dish with some consommé, also some turnips cut | | 
into triangles, half an inch by an eighth of an inch thick, blanched and cooked in consommé, a 
squares of the red part of carrot cut the same thickness, blanched and cooked with consommé; some rs 
artichoke bottoms cut into quarter of an inch squares, and half inch round pieces of blanched qe: 


lettuce leaves. 


(944), CONSOMME WITH SWALLOWS’ NESTS AND OHINESE BIRDS’ NEST SOUP (Consommé 3 : 
aux nids d’Hirondelles de Chine, et Potage aux nids d’Hirondelles), 5 


A Garnishing.—Salanga from the Philippine Islands; these swallows build their nests in the = 
rocks on the seashore. The nests greatly resemble shells and are formed of a transparent, yellow- 
ish material; certain naturalists affirm that they are the spawn of fish picked up from the ocean. 
For twelve persons, put six swallows’ nests to soak in cold water for twelve hours; drain them and 
clean'them carefully, removing with a coarse needle all the bits of feathers, and small, almost 
imperceptible black spots found adhering to the nest. Wash them well in several waters, then lay 
them in a saucepan and cover them with white broth; let it come to a boil, then set it on one side, 


and leave it in the same degree of heat, only it should not boil; drain the nests, put them in a ® “A 


soup tureen, and pour over an excellent chicken consommé. Swallows’ nests can be obtained all 
the year round, the price varying according to their rarity. 


Chinese Bird’s Nest Souwp.—The Chinese in New York prepare this soup in the following 
way: For each person soak about half an ounce of swallows’ nests for four hours in cold water, then 
drain. Place a young fowl in a soup pot, cover with water and let boil, add a few sprigs of parsley 
and salt, boil slowly and when the fowl is done, take it out and strain the broth, skimming off all 
the fat. Cook the birds’ nests in some of this.broth, take it from the fire at the first boil, cover 
well and keep it in a bain-marie, to it add some lean ham cut in thin strips. Remove all the fat 

from the broth, strain it over the nests and put it back on the fire until it almost attains boiling 
point, now add the cooked chicken meat, free of fat, nerves or skin and cut up into quarter inch 
dice; season to taste and serve. 


(245), CREAM SOUPS (Potages Créme,), 


I pee it to be more advisable to select fresh vegetables for making cream soups, and to thicken 
them with raw egg yolks, butter and cream. The flavor of the fresh vegetables combined with 
the velvety liaison, helps to make these thick soups highly estimated, even were the cream and eggs 
to be suppressed. Purées can be made of these creams, by finishing them as indicated in the purée 
soups. For Lenten cream soups, moisten them with a vegetable stock instead of broth, and use 
lean béchamel, in the place of veloute. Cream soups will be improved by passing them through a 
tammy. : 


(246), CREAM OF ARTICHOKES, MORLAISIAN (Oréme d’ Artichauts Morlaisienne,) 


Trim well some artichoke bottoms so that all the green part of the leaves be removed; mince 
up two pounds of this, blanch and drain them. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and 
when very hot, set in the artichokes and fry them without browning; moisten with two quarts of 
broth; cover the saucepan, and let boil slowly until the artichokes are done, then drain and mash 
them in a mortar; and pass the purée through a fine sieve; put it back into a saucepan, and dilute 
it with its own broth, adding one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415). Set it on the fire and stir con- 
constantly, bearing on the bottom of the saucepan with a spatula; let boil up once, then remove 
all the fat; season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, cream 
and butter. The quantity of liaison for each quart of this soup, is two egg-yolks, one gill of 
cream, and two ounces of butter. Serve separately some Savarin crofitons, a quarter of an inch 
square, and dried in the oven. 


(247), OREAM OF ASPARAGUS A LA ST, VALLIER (Crime dAsperges & la St, Vallier). 


Mince up fine, five medium-sized onions, throw them into boiling salted water, and let them 
boil for five minutes, then drain, and fry them ina quarter of a pound of butter without 
coloring; add four heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and let fry slowly for several minutes, 
en put in with them two pounds of green and tender asparagus, cut in one-inch length pieces, 
washed several times, and blanched for ten minutes in boiling, salted water. Moisten with two 





iG be Bl eg i 255 


quarts of broth, and when the asparagus is done, drain it off, and mash it in a mortar 
diluting it with its own broth; pass all through a fine sieve, and put the purée into a saucepan, 
to heat; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and after it begins to boil, remove all. the fat 
arising to the surface; just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, diluted in 
cream, and incorporate therein some fine butter. Serve in a soup tureen with a garnishing of 
green peas and small quenelles, three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, laid through a cornet on a 
buttered pan, and poached in some boiling salted water, poured into the pan; when done, drain 
them, and add them to the soup. 


(248), CREAM OF ASPARAGUS WITH CROUTONS SOUFFLES OR ASPARAGUS TOPS (Créme 
d’Asperges aux Orofitons Soufflés ou aux pointes d’Asperges). 

Bend some small green asparagus, beginning at the root end, so as to break it off, keeping 
only the tender parts (two pounds); cut into one inch length pieces, wash well, changing 
the water several times, then drain and throw into boiling, salted water, continue the boiling 
for ten minutes, then drain. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan; when very hot 
add the asparagus, and fry colorless on a quick fire; moisten with two quarts of broth, and 
when done, drain and mash; then pass througha fine sieve. Add one pint of velouté (No. 415) 
to the broth, color it with some spinach green or Breton vegetable coloring, season with salt, 
sugar and nutmeg, and just when serving thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks diluted in 
cream, and work in two ounces of butter (No. 175). Serve separately some crofitons soufflés 
made with pate a chou (No. 132) rolled in strings and cut in three-sixteenth of an inch lengths; 
these pieces to be rolled in flour, then rolled around in a sieve to make them round. Fry in hot 
fat; or asparagus tops may be served as a garnishing instead of the crotitons. 


(249), CREAM OF BARLEY, VIENNA STYLE, OR OF RICE A LA GREMIEUX (Créme d’Orge a 
la Viennoise, ou de Riz & la Orémieux), 

Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, and when very hot, add four ounces of well cleaned 
pearl barley; heat it, then moisten with four quarts of broth; cover the saucepan, and cook the 
barley slowly for three hours, or more, until it yields easily to the pressure of the finger, then 
drain and pound ina mortar, diluting it with its own stock, afterward straining through a sieve 
ortammy. Return it to the fire, and in case it should be too thick add more of the broth; stir con- 
tinually with a spatula, bearing on to the bottom of the saucepan, until the soup is ready to boil; 
season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and add the thickening to the soup, stirring it in well until 
all the butter is melted (No. 175). 


For Cream of Rice & la Crémiewx.—Pound or mash well in a mortar, half a pound of fresh 
bread-crumbs, mixing in gradually two whole eggs, and the third of its quantity of fine butter; 
form this into small, round cakes, seven-eighths of an inch in diameter and one-eighth of an 
inch thick; bake them ina hot oven, and serve the same time as the soup. The cream of rice 
is prepared exactly the same way as the barley, the only difference being that this requires less 
cooking than the barley. 


7 (250), CREAM OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Oréme de Choux de Bruxelles), 

Blanch in boiling, salted water for ten minutes, two pounds of well cleaned Brussels sprouts, 
drain and fry them in butter, then moisten with two quarts of white broth, and when cooked, 
drain them into a mortar, and mash them to a paste; dilute this purée with its own broth, and 
should it be too thick, add some more white broth, then strain through a sieve or tammy, and add 
one pint of velouté (No. 415); heat all up without boiling. and thicken with two egg-yolks, one gill of 
¢eream and two ounces of butter, this being the quantity to use for every quart of soup. Serve separ- 
ately a garnishing of brioche crofitons (No. 51), one quarter of an inch square, and dried in the oven. 


(251), OREAM OF CAULIFLOWER, BRISSON (Créme de Choux fleurs & la Brisson), 

Divide the cauliflower into several parts, clean them well, pare nicely, and remove the hearts; 
it will require two pounds for the soup. Cook them until half done in boiling, salted water, then 
drain and fry in four ounces of butter, moistening with two quarts of white broth; season 
with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and when the cauliflowers are done, drain off the broth, and 
mash in a mortar to reduce to a paste; dilute this with its own broth, add one pint of velouteé 
(No. 415), and if the purée be too thick, then add more white broth. Set it on the fire to heat 
without boiling, and just when ready to serve, thicken it with cream, raw egg-yolks and butter 
(No. 175). Serve a garnishing of crofitons soufflés, with parmesan cheese made as explained (No. 
248), having added grated parmesan cheese to the paste. 





956 THE EPICUREAN. “fe a ay: 


(252), OREAM OF CELERY OR CARDOONS ALA LIVINGSTONE (Créme de Celeri ou Cardons a4 4 
la Livingstone), | : 


For the Celery, remove the threads covering the stalks; have two pounds of very white, cut-up 
celery, blanch it in plenty of water, and cook in two quarts of white broth; when done, drain and 
mash it well to reduce it to a paste, diluting it with its own broth; press it through a fine sieve or 
tammy, add one pint of velouté (No. 415), and some more broth should the purée be too thick; 
then heat the soup without letting it boil, seasoning with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Thicken it with 
egg-yolks, cream and butter (No. 175). Serve in a separate tureen a marrow quenelle garnishing. 


Marrow Quenelles.—Melt half a pound of well cleansed marrow; strain into a cool bowl 
through a fine muslin; beat it till it becomes a cream, then add eight egg-yolks one by one, 
and beat again until thoroughly incorporated, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, add half a pound 
of white and very fresh bread-crumbs; divide this into four parts and form these into strings half 
an inch thick, then cut them across to have each one-half an inch long; roll in flour and poach in 
boiling water; serve with the soup. The cream of cardoons is made in exactly the same way as — 
the cream of celery. 


(253). CREAM OHIFFONNADE WITH ORUSTS OR OF LEEKS WITH QUENELLES (Créme 
Chiffonnade aux Crotites ou de Poireaux aux Quenelles), 


Prepare one pound and a quarter of lettuce leaves, eight ounces of sorrel leaves, three ounces of 
water-cress, and one ounce of chervil leaves, all well washed in several waters, and cut up very 
fine. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, and when very hot, add the herbs, and allow 
them to fry without attaining a color, then moisten with two quarts of veal stock or white broth, 
and boil for one-half hour, adding a quart of velouté (No. 415), and a thickening of four egg- 
yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter for each quart of soup; strain through a 
sieve, and season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. Serve a garnishing of round shaped bread 
crusts seven-eighths by one-eighth of an inch, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. 

_ For the Cream of Leeks, have two pounds of the white part of leeks, prepared and finished 
as for the chiffonnade, but instead of round bread crofitons, replace these by a garnishing of 
chicken quenelles (No. 89). 


(254), CREAM OF CUCUMBERS A LA SHEPPARD (Orame de Ooncombres & la Sheppard). 


Peel or remove the green skin from the cucumbers, mince up two pounds of them, blanch 
them in boiling, salted water for ten minutes, then drain. Heat four ounces of butter in asaucepan; 
when very hot, add the cucumbers, and fry them colorless, moistening with two quarts of white 
broth; boil all slowly until the cucumbers are thoroughly done, and then drain and mash them ina 
mortar; thin out this purée with its own broth, and if still too thick, add some more white broth, 
and strain the whole through a tammy. Add one quart of velouté (No. 415), season with salt, 
sugar and nutmeg, and heat it up without boiling; remove all the white particles arising to the 
surface, and thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175). Pour the soup very 
hot into a tureen with a good white of chicken garnishing allowing one ounce for each 
quart, and cut up into three-sixteenths of an inch squares. : 


(255), CREAM OF GREEN CORN A LA HERMANN (Ordme de Mais Vertes & la Hermann). 

Boil some corn on the cob in water having salt and butter added to it; drain, then cut off the 
tender part of the corn; about two pounds in all. Pound this in a mortar with thick béchamel 
sauce and Cilute this purée with white broth. Place a pound of chicken forcemeat (No. 60) in a 
deep buttered dish; stand it in a sautoire with water reaching to half the height of the dish, let 
boil and then put it in a slack oven to poach the foreemeat; leave it to cool, then pound in a mor- 
tar adding the corn purée, and enough broth to obtain a not too thick purée; strain through a 
tammy, heat up without boiling, and just when ready to serve add, to thicken the soup, egg- 
yolk and cream; work in a piece of fresh butter. Serve separately some Compiégne crottons 
browned in the oven. 


(256), CREAM OF GREEN CORN A LA MENDOCINO (Crame de Mais Vertes & la Mendocino), 
Cook the corn on the cob in salted water, adding a piece of butter; when done, remove the 
grains, mash them in a mortar, and dilute the purée with a quart and a half of broth; strain 
through a sieve or tammy, and set it into a saucepan; heat it up without allowing it to boil, and 


SOUS. 25% 


season with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with egg-yolks;. 
cream and fine crawfish butter (No. 573), with lemon juice added. Serve with a garnishing: 
composed of shrimp tails, cut in small pieces. 


(257), CREAM OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Créme de Topinambours), 


Peel the artichokes, and afterward weigh two pounds of them, and mince them well. (Jeru- 
salem artichokes can be imitated by using half artichoke bottoms, and half sweet potatoes. ) Mince 
up one-quarter of a pound or two medium onions; fry them in butter, and then add the artichokes; 
fry also. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and moisten with 
two quarts of white broth. Boil and cook slowly until the artichokes are easily crushed; then 
drain and mash them; increase the volume of the purée with the broth the artichokes have been 
cooked in, strain through a sieve or tammy, and heat up without boiling; just when ready to serve 
thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter (No. 175). A garnishing is made of 
artichoke bottoms, cut into one-quarter of inch squares. | 


(258), OREAM OF LETTUCE, ROMAINE OR OHICCORY A LA EVERS (Crame de Laitue, Romaine 


ou Chicorée a la Evers), 


Procure two pounds of lettuce, romaine or chiccory, and proceed exactly the same for either. 
Wash them in several waters after removing the greenish leaves, then cook them in boiling, salted 
water, until the hardest parts yield under the pressure of the finger, then drain and cool them off; 
squeeze out all the water, and chop them up coarsely. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter, 
and when very hot, add the lettuce and let fry for a few minutes; moisten with two quarts of 
broth, then boil and simmer for fifteen minutes, adding one quart of velouté (No. 415), strain 
through a sieve or tammy, heat it up again, and when the soup is near boiling point; thicken with 
egg-yolks, cream and butter (No. 175). seasoning with salt, sugar, and nutmeg. 

Garnishing.—Pound in a mortar, one-half pound of bread-crumbs with two whole eggs, add- 
ing them in gradually, and half of the same quantity of pate-a-choux (No. 182), roll it out to three- 
sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and cut in squares, then fry in clarified butter. 


(259), CREAM OF LIMA, KIDNEY OR HORSE BEANS (Oréme de Haricots de Lima, Flageolets ou. 
Féves de Marais), 


The manner for preparing either of these creams is exactly the same; cook till half done im 
salted water, two pounds of lima beans. Drain them and fry them colorless in two ounces of butter;. 
moisten with two quarts of white broth, season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, then cook slowly 
untii thoroughly done; drain them and mash them in a mortar, moistening with two and a half: 
quarts of white broth, then strain this purée either through a fine sieve or tammy, adding to it one: 
pint of velouté (No. 415), return it to the fire, let heat to near boiling, then despumate well all the 
scum and grease arising to the surface, and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream, and fresh butter 
(No. 175). A garnishing of bread crofitons of five-eighths of an inch square by one-eighth of an. 
inch in thickness, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. 


(260), CREAM OF PEAS A LA ST. GERMAIN (Crame de pois & la St, Germain). 


Throw into boiling, salted water, two pounds of medium-sized peas, and boil them for ten 
minutes with a little piece of mint; drain them, then put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, 
and when warm, throw in the peas, and let them fry for a few minutes; moisten with white broth, 
adding a few lettuce leaves, about four ounces, and two ounces of onions; the lettuce to be cut up» 
fine, and the onions minced; season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and boil until the peas are 
thoroughly cooked, then drain, suppress the mint, and mash them in a mortar, moistening them 
with two and a half quarts of white broth. Press through a sieve or tammy, and return them to- 
the saucepan with a pint of velouté (No. 415); should the purée be too thick, then add more broth; 
warm it well without boiling, and thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and butter, (No. 175). 
Pour the soup into a soup tureen with some chopped up chervil, and a garnishing of extra fine 


peas. 
(261), DREAM OF PEAS WITH MINT (Créme de pois a la Menthe), 


Parboil two pounds of shelled green peas until partly cooked; then drain and put them on to 
fry with half a pound of fresh butter; moisten with white broth and add half a pound of minced 
white onions. When the peas are entirely cooked drain and pound them, diluting with velouté 


258 THE EPICUREAN. 


and the same broth they were cooked in; rub the whole through a tammy and return to the sauce. 
pan; put it on the fire and heat without boiling. Just when prepared to serve, thicken with egg- _ 
yolks, butter, and cream, adding a few mint leaves finely chopped and as garnishing some small 
chicken quenelles made with half chicken quenelle forcemeat, and half cream forcemeat laid 
through a pocket on a buttered baking tin. 


(262). CREAM OF SORREL WITH STUFFED EGGS (Oréme d’oseille aux Gufs Farcis), 


Pick the hard stalks from the sorrel, wash it in several waters ‘to free it from all the adhering 
sand, then drain and press it. Weigh two pounds of this, and chop it up fine; put four ounces of 
butter into a saucepan, and when hot, add the chopped sorrel and fry it colorless; moisten with a 
quart and a half of white broth, and one quart of velouté (No. 415); season with salt, sugar, and 
nutmeg; then put it on the fire to boil slowly, removing the butter floating on the top. Strain it 
through a sieve or tammy, and put it back to come to a boiling point without letting it boil, and 
thicken with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175), adding to it at the last moment some 
lettuce chopped up and cooked in consommé. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve separately a 
garnishing of hard boiled, stuffed half eggs. 

A Garnishing of Stuffed Half Eggs.—Cut lengthwise in two, some small hard boiled eggs; 
remove the yolks, and fill the whites with chicken forcemeat and cream, mixing in with it chopped 
mushrooms, hard boiled egg-yolks and fine herbs; let the stuffing be dome-shaped, then dust over 
with grated parmesan; lay these eggs on a dish, and brown them nicely in the oven. Place them 
in a vegetable dish, and pass it around the same time as the soup. 


(263), OREAM OF SQUASH, TURNIPS OR CARROTS WITH COMPIEGNE CROUTONS (Orame 
de Courges, de Navets ou de Carottes aux Crotitons de Compiégne), 


Peel the squash and mince two pounds of the inside, with four ounces of onions, or else select 
young, tender turnips, peel and mince two pounds of these, or, cut some carrots so as to have two 
pounds of the reddest part; the turnips and carrots should be parboiled. Put six ounces of butter 
into a saucepan, and when hot, add one of the above vegetables chopped very fine, and after it — 
is lightly fried without coloring, then moisten with two quarts of white broth, skim and continue 
to boil until thoroughly cooked, then drain, mash the vegetable to reduce it to a paste, and dilute 
with the stock it was boiled in; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and if too thick use more 
broth; thicken with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter. Compiégne crotitons (No. 51), cut in 
quarter of inch squares, and dried in the oven, should be served as a garnishing. 


Garnishing for Turnips.—Three ounces of butter worked with a small whip until perfectly 
white, then incorporate slowly into it two egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of sifted flour, salt, sugar and 
nutmeg; mix in with this three whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and poach in a slow oven, 
in some buttered dome-shaped molds; unmold and serve separately the same time as the soup. 


Garnishing for Carrots.—Small chicken forcemeat and cream quenelles, laid through a cornet 
on a buttered pan and poached in boiling water, then drained and served with the soup. 


(264), OREAM OF STRING BEANS A LA VEFOUR (Oréme de Haricots Verts & la Véfour), 


Clean and blanch some beans in boiling, salted water, then drain them; put four ounces of 
butter into a saucepan on the fire, and after the butter is warm, throw in the beans, and fry them 
for afew moments. Moisten with two quarts of broth, and let the beans cook, then drain, and 
pound them in a mortar, dilute them with some of their own broth, and should the purée be too 
thick, then add more broth, put the purée back into a saucepan adding one quart of velouté (No. 
415); season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and stir well while bearing the spoon on to the bottom 
till it reaches boiling point, but be careful that it does not boil. Thicken with egg-yolks, butter 
and cream. Serve separately a royal cream prepared as follows: 

A royal cream (No. 241), garnishing poached in a buttered baking pan, let stand till cold, 
then cut it into small three-eighths of an inch squares and serve with the soup. 


(265), OREAM OF SWEET POTATOES A LA GERARD (Oréme de Patates & la Gérard), 

Have two pounds of sweet potatoes previously steamed; peel, mince and fry them in four 
ounces of butter, moistening with two and a half quarts of white broth; cook until done, then 
strain and pound them in a mortar, diluting the purée with its own broth, and in case it be too 





SOUPS. | 259 


thick, add some more white broth and a pint of velouté (No. 415); strain the soup through a sieve 
or tammy, then return it to the saucepan, and heat it to boiling point without allowing it to boil. 
Thicken with egg-yolks, cream and butter, using two egg-yolks, two gills of cream and two ounces 
of butter for each quart. 

The Garnishing to be of one-quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs pounded in a mortar, and 
mingling with it gradually two eggs and a third of its volume of pate-a-choux (No. 132); roll it into 
small balls, three-sixteenths of a inch in size, and fry them in clarified butter, serving them the 
same time as the soup. 


- (266). CREAM OF VEGETABLES A LA BANVILLE (Créme de Légumes & la Banville), 


Mince four ounces of leeks, six ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnip-cabbage, two ounces 
of celery, four ounces of turnips, and four ounces of onions. Place four ounces of butter into a 
saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add to it the finely minced vegetables and moisten with 
two quarts of white broth; boil, skim and cook slowly. As soon as the vegetables are well done, ° 
drain them, and pound them in a mortar, diluting the purée with some of its broth; strain through 
a sieve or tammy, heat it to a boiling point without letting it boil, then thicken with egg-yolks, 
cream and fine butter (No. 175.) 


Garnishing, Small Buttered Timbales (No. 6, Fig. 137) filled with one layer of finely cooked 
chestnuts and one layer of cooked rice, filling them up with royal cream (No. 241), and poach in 
a slack oven; unmold and serve these in a separate tureen with a little consommé poured over. 


(267), PUREE OF CAPON A LA JUSSIENNE (Purée de chapona la Jussienne). 


Prepare a delicate quenelle forcemeat as for No. 89; put a pound of this into a buttered mold 
furnished with a socket, and let poach by placing the mold in a saucepan containing boiling water, 
to half its height, and placing it on the fire; at the first boil take it off, and set it in a very slack 
oven until poached; then unmold, and let get cold. Pound this preparation in a mortar, diluting 
it with two quarts of broth and one quart of velouté (No. 415); strain through a sieve or tammy, 
and heat up without boiling; just when ready to serve, stir the broth well, and season it with salt 
and nutmeg, adding three ounces of butter, working it in until it is all melted. Pour the soup 
into a soup tureen. For garnishing have some rice blanched and cooked in white consommé, 
also some crofitons made of fragments of puff paste (No. 146), cut a quarter of an inch square; 
they should be cooked in a very slack oven, and when done, served separately. 


(268). PUREE OF CARROTS A LA ORECY (Purée de Carottes & la Crécy). 


Only use the red part of the carrot for this soup; mince up two pounds of red carrots, cutting 
them with a knife into thin lengthwise slices. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, 
and when it begins to heat, add to it two ounces of onions, and fry for one instant; then add the 
red carrots. and continue to fry slowly without letting it attain a color; moisten with three quarts 
of broth, salt; add a bunch of parsley, celery, and bay leaf, and boil until the carrots are entirely 
done; then put in half a pound of rice previously blanched, and cooked in consommé; drain, and 
mash the carrots and rice. Moisten this purée with the broth, and if it be too thick add some 
white broth to it; strain through a sieve or tammy, and return it to a clean saucepan; heat it to a 
boiling point, stirring continually, and bearing on the bottom of the saucepan with the spoon, 
to prevent the purée from adhering; let to boil slowly on one side of the saucepan only, 
for twenty minutes, removing all the scum and fat from the surface as quickly as it appears; 
season with salt, and sugar and when ready to serve incorporate gradually into it two ounces of fine 
butter, stirring the soup with a spoon until all the butter melts, and serve at the same time small 
quarter inch squares of bread-crumbs fried in butter. Rice, noodles, and Japanese pearls can 
also be served as garnishings for Crécy soup. 


(269), PUREE OF CHICKEN A LA DUFFERIN (Purée de poulet & la Dufferin), 


Take a good three pound chicken; raise the fillets, break up the bones and put them into a 
saucepan, with three quarts of broth; leave to boil for an hour, then strain the liquid through a 
fine sieve. Sauté the removed fillets, then pound them with four hard boiled egg-yolks, and mix 
in slowly a pint of velouté; also two quarts of stock. Strain the purée through a tammy, heat up 
without letting it boil, and just when ready to serve incorporate in two ounces of fresh butter, 
working it well into the soup. Serve separately a garnishing of pearl barley, and puff paste 
croatons cooked white, meaning cooked in a very slack oven. 


260 THE EPICUREAN. - 


(270), PUREE OF CHICKEN A LA REINE (Purée de Poulet & la Reine), 


For Twelve Persons.—Garnish the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, minced carrots 
and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a little thyme and bay leaf; place on top one 


chicken, moisten with a pint of broth, and let it reduce slowly but entirely; moisten again —_ 


with two quarts of broth, let the liquid come to a boil, then skim it off and continue boiling until 
the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Remove all the meat from the chicken without any skin or fat, 
and pound this with half a pound of very fresh bread-crumbs, season it with salt and nutmeg, 
then moisten with the stock, rub this through a tammy, and heat it up without boiling, adding to 
it an almond-milk prepared as follows: Pound one ounce of freshly peeled almonds, add gradually 
to it one pint of milk and press this forcibly through a napkin. Just when ready to serve,*put — 
into the soup three ounces of fine butter, stirring it continually until thoroughly melted. Serve 
the soup with a garnishing of small quenelles, bead-shaped, of three-sixteenths of an inch in size, 
made of quenelle and cream forcemeats (Nos. 75, 89), half and half of each, and laid through a 
cornet on a buttered baking sheet, then poached in boiling water. ae 


(271), PUREE OF ENGLISH SNIPE, PLOVER OR WOODCOCK ALA THEO (Purée de ete 
Pluviers ou bécasses & la Théo), 


Remove the fillets from eight English snipe; with half of them make a quenelle forcemeat 
the same as explained for game forcemeat (No. 62), let the quenelles be made either with a tea- 
spoon or else pushed through a pocket on a buttered sheet, in shapes of oval olives, and then 
poach them in boiling salted water; these quenelles are to be used for the garnishing. Put two 
ounces of butter into a saucepan with two ounces of chopped onions; fry them colorless, add the 
remaining fillets and carcasses, and when all is well browned, moisten with three quarts of broth 
and a quart of espagnole sauce (No. 414), let cook for thirty minutes, and despumate, which 
means to boil only on one side of the saucepan, and remove with a spoon all the fat and 
scum arising to the surface; then drain and remove most of the bones. Pound the carcasses and 
meats, dilute them with the broth, season and strain through a colander and afterward through a 
tammy; thicken when ready to serve with four ounces of butter divided into small pats, incor- 
porating them in with a whip, until they are entirely melted; lay the quenelles in a soup tureen, 
and pour the very hot purée over. 


(272), PUREE OF GROUSE A LA MANHATTAN (Purée de Tétras & la Manhattan), 


Roast three grouse for twenty minutes; cut of the fillets and break up the bones, putting them 
into a saucepan with four quarts of broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, half 
a pound of carrots, quarter of a pound of onions, and let simmer for one hour. Pound the fillets, 
add to it the same quantity of purée of sweet potatoes, and dilute all with the broth strained 
through a fine tammy, then return it to the fire in a saucepan to heat without boiling; season and 
stir into it just when ready to serve four ounces of fine butter. Make a garnishing with one pint 
of the soup; mix into a half a pint of cream, eight yolks and two whole eggs, and poach this in 
small buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 187), and cut crosswise before being put into the purée.. 


(273). PUREE OF LENTILS, CHANTILLY (Purée de Lentilles Chantilly), 


Unsalt a pig’s head for twelve hours, partially cook it; put into asaucepan one and a half 
quarts of picked and washed lentils, add the half pig’s head, and moisten with four quarts of cold 
water to cover all well, then add two carrots cut in four lengthwise, four onions, one with two cloves. 
in it, half a pound of well pared raw ham, and boil slowly until all be thoroughly cooked, then take 
out the half head, bone it, remove all the fat, and put it under a weight to reduce it to three-eighths 
of an inch thick; drain the lentils, suppress the vegetables and ham, and pound the lentils, 
diluting them with their own broth. Strain all through a sieve, add two quarts of béchamel (No. 
409), and heat it up without boiling; skim and when ready to serve, incorporate into it a good 
piece of fine butter. Cut the gelatinous parts of the head into dice, and serve them with the soup 
as a garnishing, also some crofitons of bread fried in butter. 


(274), PUREE OF LEVERET OR YOUNG RABBIT, ST, JAMES (Purée de Levraut ou Lapereau 
St. James), 


Remove all the bones from the leverets or young rabbits, break up the carcasses, and fry them 
in butter with minced onions, carrots and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and 





SOUPS. 261 


celery, moisten with four quarts of broth, let the liquid boil up, then skim, and season with salt, 

pepper and cloves, continue to boil for one hour, then strain through a sieve. Cut up the meat in 
three quarter inch squares; fry these in butter with two ounces of lean ham, adding four table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and mix all well together, then moisten with the above stock, let boil and finish 

cooking. When the meats are well done, drain them off, and pound them in a mortar, diluting 
this purée with the stock, then press it through a sieve or tammy, the latter being preferable, for all 
purées are improved by being pressed through a tammy, as it removes any grains that may bein them. 

Heat the soup without boiling, season to taste, and incorporate into it a piece of good butter weighing - 
a quarter of a pound, stirring it sharply with a spoon till thoroughly melted. Add a garnishing 
composed of small game and cream forcemeat (No. 75) timbales, the size and shape of half a 
pigeon’s egg, poached in a slack oven and served in the soup. 


(275). PUREE OF OATMEAL TOULOUSAINE (Purée d’Avenas Toulousaine), 


Put three pints of water into a saucepan; when it boils, drop into it like rain, six ounces of 
oatmeal coarsely ground, salt and one ounce of butter, let cook for three hours, dilute it with three 
pints of white broth, and pass it through a tammy, return it to the fire stirring it continually, and 
at the first boil remove it to the side of the fire, and let boil and despumate for twenty-five 
minutes; skim all the fat, season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, and just when ready to serve, incor- 
porate into it a piece of fine butter; pour the soup into a soup tureen with a garnishing of bread 
crotitons an inch in diameter sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven, also crofiitons 
made of firm Royal cream (No. 241), using whites of eggs instead of yolks, poached in a slack oven, 
and cut into squares. 


(276), PUREE OF PARTRIDGES OR QUAILS A LA D'HENIN (Purée de Perdreaux ou de Oailles 
& la d’Hénin). 


Roast some partridges; suppress the skin and bones, and pound the meat with one ounce of 
butter and two gills of velouté (No. 415) for each partridge; press this through a sieve and put it 
into a bowl with one raw egg-yolk and a litttle nutmeg. Put on the fire to boil, two quarts of 
thickened game stock; add to it the fragments of birds and a garnished bouquet, some minced 
carrots and onions, salt and nutmeg; boil on one side of the saucepan only in order to despumate 
for one hour, then remove all the fat, strain, and return it to the saucepan; at the first boil add 
the prepared purée, season to taste, then pour the soup intoa soup tureen, after straining it through 
a fine colander, adding a garnishing of hulled barley and some small game quenelles. 


(277), PUREE OF PIGEONS OR WILD SQUABS A LA WALESKI (Purée de Pigeons ou de Pigeons 
Ramiers & la Waleski), 

Infuse in half a pint of boiling Madeira wine, some thyme, marjoram, basil, cloves, mace, and 
pepper corns. Roast four pigeons, remove all their meat, and break up the carcasses, putting 
them into a saucepan with two quarts of broth, adding a quarter of a pound of onions, quarter of 
a pound of carrots, and two ounces of celery, all finely minced; salt properly, and let boil for one 
hour, then strain through a napkin, and return it to a clean saucepan to boil and thicken with two 
tablespoonfuls of fecula diluted in a little cold water. Pound the meat from the birds with eight 
hard boiled egg-yolks and one ounce of butter, add some of the broth to this purée to dissoive it, 
then strain it through a tammy, heat it up without boiling, and add to it the Madeira wine infusion 
- after straining it through a napkin; stir in when ready to serve, two ounces of good butter, then 
pour it into the soup tureen and serve as garnishing, small cream forcemeat (No. 75) timbales 
No. 5, cut in two crosswise. . 


(278), PUREE OF POTATOES A LA BENTON (Purée de Pommes de Terre & la Benton), 


Mince up three pounds of peeled potatoes; put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, and 
when warm, add one pound of the white part of leeks minced, and fry them colorless; then add 
the potatoes, and moisten with six quarts of white broth, and continue to boil until the potatoes 
are done, and break easily under the pressure of the finger; drain and rub through a sieve 
with the broth, and some white broth added; season with salt and nutmeg, and put in one pint of 
velouté (No. 415); return this to the fire, and stir continually till boiling point is reached, then 
skim and just when ready to serve work into it four ounces of fine butter, stirring well the soup 
until all the butter is melted. Serve separately round crofitons three quarters of an inch, and an 
eighth of an inch thick, buttered and browned in the oven. 


262 THE WEeIGUa ra. 


(279), PUREE OF PULLET OR GUINEA FOWL A LA WASHBURN (Purée de Poularde ov 
Pintade & la Washburn), 3 


Roast some small pullets or guinea fowls, remove all the meat, and suppress from this the fat 
and skin; break up the carcasses and put them into a saucepan with some minced carrots, leeks, a 
bunch of parsley and bayleaf. Cut half a pound of breast of pork; put two ounces of butter 
into a saucepan with the pork and fry together for a few minutes, then add the leeks, carrots. 
and bunch of parsley, also the carcasses; moisten with six quarts of beef stock, season with salt, 
pepper-corns and two cloves, and boil up the liquid, skim off the fat and continue boiling for one 
hour, then strain through a sieve. Pound the meat taken from the pullets or guinea fowl with 
twelve hard boiled egg-yolks and two ounces of butter, diluting it with the stock, heat it up and 
have it boil for a few minutes, season, and stir in four ounces of butter, working it in the soup 
with a spoon until it is entirely melted, then pour it into the soup tureen and serve the following 
garnishing separate: 

Garnishing.—Sauté four ounces of chicken livers; pound and press them forcibly through a 
sieve, adding four egg-yolks and some cooked fine herbs. With this preparation make small half 
inch diameter balls, roll them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in clarified butter. 


(280), PUREE OF RED BEANS A LA CONDE (Purée de Haricots rouges & la Condé), 


Soak fortwelve hours in tepid water, one quart of red beans; drain them, then put them into a 
saucepan with six quarts of water, one carrot cut in pieces, one onion and a bunch of ungarnished 
parsley, and let cook slowly for three hours, seasoning with salt, pepper and cloves. When the 
beans are sufficiently done, drain them and mash them in a mortar; dilute this purée with its own 
broth, giving it a proper consistency, then incorporate into it, when ready to serve, a quarter of a 
pound of good butter. Serve separately small crofitons of bread a quarter of an inch square, fried 
in butter. 


(281), PUREE OF REEDBIRDS OR LARKS WITH CHESTNUTS (Purée d’Ortolans ou d’Alouettes: 
aux Marrons), 


Procure three dozen larks, pick them, remove the pouches and gizzards, and take off the 
fillets, laying them aside. Fry the carcasses in a quarter of a pound of fine butter, with half a 
pound of smoked, lean, raw ham, cut in quarter inch squares, and moisten with three quarts of game 
consommé (No. 192), and one quart of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Boil slowly and despumate for 
one hour, then drain and pound the carcasses and ham with one quarter of a pound of blanched 
rice cooked in consommé, and one pound of chestnuts; moisten this with the broth and strain all 
through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy, add some Madeira wine, a pinch of cayenne 
pepper, and when ready to serve, work into it a three ounce piece of fine butter, stirring it in 
vigorously till thoroughly melted. Sauté the fillets when ready, and serve them with the 
soup. 


(282), PUREE OF PEAS WITH OROUTONS OR RICE (Purée de Pois aux Oroftons ou au Riz). 


Have one pound of dry peas (green split peas), wash them well changing the water until it is 
perfectly clear, then put them into a saucepan with three quarts of beef stock or water, one carrot 
cut lengthwise in four, two large onions with four cloves, salt and pepper. Boil and let cook slowly | 
on the range or in a slack oven, then remove the carrots and cloves, and pass the peas through a 
fine sieve with the onions. Season properly and moisten as required, then let the soup boil up 
again, skim it and work in about four ounces of butter. Serve a garnishing of bread crofitons cut 
in quarter inch dice and fried in butter, or else some rice boiled in consommé. 


(283), PUREE OF WILD DUCKS, [CANVASBAOK, REDHEAD OR MALLARD] A LA VAN BUREN. 
(Purée de Canards Sauvages [Canvasback Téte Rouge ou Mallard] 4 la Van Buren), 


Roast two ducks for eighteen or twenty minutes, remove the fillets, and break up the bones,. 
putting them into a saucepan with a split knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of ham, 
also two cut up tomatoes, and one onion with four cloves in it. Moisten with four quarts of broth, 
cook for two hours and strain the broth; pound the fillets after removing all the skin, with the 
same quantity of cooked hominy, and two ounces of butter, dilute this with the broth, season with 
salt and nutmeg, and heat it up without boiling. Just when ready to serve incorporate into it, 





i 


SOUPS. ee 263 


four ounces of good butter. and beat the broth up well with a spoon, until all the butter is melted; 
then pour it into a soup tureen with a garnishing of celery cut in dice, and blanched and cooked 
in some consommé, also quarter inch squares of brioche dried in the oven. 


(284), PUREE OF WILD TURKEY A LA SARTIGES (Purée de Dinde Sauvage & la Sartiges), 


Twenty-four Persons.—Braise a wild turkey in a braising pan, garnishing the bottom of it with 
slices of fat pork, and slices of onions and carrots, and on top lay the turkey; moisten with a quart 
of broth, let fall to a glaze, then moisten again to its height with more broth, adding a bunch of 
parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf, one clove of garlic and a split knuckle of veal, also two celery 
stalks, and let cook slowly; when the turkey is done, remove it, and strain the broth through a 
fine sieve. As soon as the turkey is nearly cold, cut away all its skin, and detach the meat acher- 
ing to the bones, about four pounds in all; pound this with four ounces of freshly peeled almonds, 
and dilute with four quarts of broth and two quarts of velouté (No. 415), strain it through a sieve, 
and then incorporate into it half a pound of fresh butter. A garnishing of green peas cooked in 
salted water and some pearl barley boiled three hours in white broth to be added to the soup 
tureen. 


(285) BARLEY SOUP WITH OELERY (Potage d’Orge au Céleri). 


Put half a pound of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when it begins to heat, dredge in 
ten ounces of small pearl barley, well freed of all dust and impurities; let cook for a few minutes, 
then moisten with three quarts of white broth, and stir continually until it comes to a boil; salt, 
and cook for two hours and a half, till the barley be thoroughly done; adding three-quarters of 
a pound of celery roots cut in quarter inch squares, and blanched in boiling salted water for ten 
minutes. After the celery is well cooked; and just when serving the soup, taste it to see whether 
the seasoning be correct, then add a thickening of egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175). 


(286), BARSCH POLISH STYLE (Barsch & la Polonaise), 


Wash and peel ten red and sweet beet roots, cut them iu slices of one eighth of an inch in 
thickness; put them into an earthen pot, or a wooden bucket; wet them plentifully with luke warm 
water, mix a handful of bread-crumbs (the addition of bread-crumbs is to hasten fermentation), 
cover with a linen and leave it thus stand fora few days. When the barsch is well acidulated, 
take off the crust of fermentation which lies at the surface; strain the liquid, put it into an 
earthen pan or into an enameled iron saucepan; garnish it with a piece of fresh pork, knuckles 
of veal, breast of beef, a chicken or a duck; put it on the fire, and as soon as it commences to boil, 
skim it, and garnish with a few celery roots, parsley, onions, leeks, salt and whole pepper, dry 
mushrooms (Gribouis). Cover and boil slowly as for a pot-au-feu; take out the meat when cooked. 
Cut the beet roots which have been used to make the sour juice, in the shape of Julienne, and 
an equal quantity of onions, leeks and carrots; fry them in butter and wet with the broth of the barsch. 
Then add finely shredded cabbage and the mushrooms, and let all cook slowly.. When all is 
cooked cut the breast of beef in squares of three-quarters of an inch, put some Frankfort sausages in 
boiling water for ten minutes, take off the skin, cut them in squares of three-eighths of an inch 
add them to the soup, as well as some small round raviolles. These raviolles are made with 
chopped cooked meat, well seasonec!, and to which has been added a little brown sauce, When 
ready to serve this soup, put a littl: broth into a saucepan, add to it some well colored and grated 
beet roots, and let boil, remove it then from the fire as soon as it boils, pass it through a linen into 
the soup; add to this soup some iennel or chopped parsley, salt and black pepper. This soup must 
be a little acid; should it not be acid enough, add a little vinegar. If this soup is to be served at 
fine dinners, you may add garnishing of marrow quenelles (No. 252), of the size of an olive, some 
hard boiled eggs, cut lengthwise in two, and stuffed with the yolks which have been removed, 
crushed fine and seasoned with salt, pepper, grated horseradish and chopped parsley, and after 
being stuffed sprinkle them with melted butter, bestrew on them some bread-crumbs and put into 
an oven to color. This soup can be thickened with sour cream (the Russian smitane), to suit the 
taste. . The barsch can also be served in cups at receptions and evening parties, in preparing it in 
the following manner: Take off the grease of the barsch and strain it, and then clarify it by add- 
ing to each gallon one pound of lean meat of beef chopped and mix with a bottle of good Bordeaux 
wine, and leave it at the corner of the stove, without letting it boil; strain it through a napkin and 


serve very hot in cups. 


264 THE EPICURHAN. 



































(287). BENNETT SOUP (Soupe a la Bennett), 


This soup as made renowned by an article that appeared in the New York Herald, March, 1874, 
Put into a soup pot six gallons of water, take a piece of the shoulder of beef (the chuck), 
weighing ten pounds; cut off all the fat and remove the bones; divide the meat into inch squares; 
set the bones and trimmings into a net, and place all into a pot with the water. Set the pot on the 
fire, and let boil; at the first boil remove all the scum arising to the surface, then add salt, a spoonful 
of whole peppers tied in a small bag with three cloves, one pound of carrots, and three-quaarters of — 
a pound of turnips, cut in half inch squares; half a pound of celery cut in quarter of an inch 
pieces, four ounces of onion, three-sixteenth inc squares, four pounds of cabbage, suppressing all. 
the hard parts, and one pint of well washed barley. Cook for three hours, taste to see whether 
the seasoning be correct, stir in a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve hot. a 
If this soup should be made with dry beans, they need to be soaked in cold water twelve hotness os 
previous, and added to the soup, after it has boiled one hour. a 
With dried whole peas.—Soak them the previous evening, and add them to the soup, after it 4 
has boiled one hour. aa 
With lentils.— Add them after one hour. — 
With rice.—Add it after two hours and a half. aa 
With split peas.—Add them after one hour. 
With potatoes.—Add them after two hours. J 
Three hours cooking will be sufficiently long to boil this soup, no Titi which garnishing is _ 
used. Put in the vegetables according to the time designated for their cooking, so that the soup 
be always ready after three hours boiling, and see that the vegetables are not too well done. 
Remove the net containing the bones and trimmings, take out the meat and the gelatinous parts _ 
adhering to the bones, cut them up into small pieces, and serve them with the soup. Ne 


= 


(288). BENOITON SOUP (Potage a la Benoiton), 


Have half a pound of carrots, a quarter of a pound of turnips, a quarter of a pound of celery, 
half a pound of leeks, half an ounce of parsnips, and a quarter of a pound of onions; blanch — 
‘separately the carrots, turnips, celery, and parsnips cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, uid mince “s 
the leeks and onions, Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when the butteris  — 
‘warm, throw in the onions, afterward the leeks, letting them fry for two minutes, and thenthe 
remainder of the vegetables; fry all together without attaining a color, and moisten with four 
‘quarts of broth, adding bouquet of parsley garnished with thyme, garlic, and bay leaf, and boil 
all slowly for one hour; remove the bouquet, and add to the soup half a pound of peeled tomatoes 
cut in two, squeezed out, and divided into small half inch squares. Season and continue cooking 
for another half hour, then add a quart of purée of fresh peas, one ounce of rice, blanched and 


cooked in consommé, string beans cut lozenge-shaped, some ene ee a and a pluche of 
‘chervil, 


ee 
Se 


(289), BOUILLABAISSE (Bouillabaisse), 


Prepare one-half pound of red snapper, one-half pound of lobster, one-half pound of perch, | 
one-half pound of sea bass, one-half pound of blackfish, one-half pound ‘of sheepshead, one-half 
pound of cod, one-half pound of mackerel. Cut all of these fish into two and a quarter inch 
squares. Mince a fine Julienne of a quarter of a pound of carrots, two ounces of chopped onions, 
and two ounces of leeks; have also two cloves of garlic. Heat in a saucepan, one gill of sweet oil, 
add to it the vegetables and garlic, fry them without allowing to color, then add one tablespoonful 
of flour, mix all together, and put in the fish; moisten to its height with half white wine and half 
water, adding two medium sized peeled tomatoes, cut in two, pressed out, and chopped up coarsely; 
let boil for fifteen minutes on aquick fire to reduce the moistening, then add one clove of crushed 
and chopped garlic, some saffron, salt, pepper, the pulp of a lemon pared to the quick, and 
chopped parsley; remove the two whole cloves of garlic. Serve the broth or stock in a soup tureen, 
the fish separately as well as thin slices of toasted bread; should the moistening not be sufficient 
for the soup, then add some fish broth to it. 


Another Way.—Have one pound of codfish, one of sea bass, and one of chicken halibut; cut 
these In twoand a quarter inch diameter pieces. Put into a saucepan three pounds of fish bones 
a parings with some carrots and onions finely minced, white wine, parsley, garlic, thyme, bay 
eal, salt, and pepper. Moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and sufficient water to cover the . 
at entirely, then boii for twenty minutes and strain. Mince up a quarter of a pound of leeks, a 





Swe: 265 


quarter of a pound of onions, add three whole cloves of garlic, and fry these in a gill of oil without 
fetting the mattain a color; then put in the fish, and two pounds of live lobster cut in half inch 
slices from the tail. Moisten with a fish stock and white wine, a pinch of saffron, and lemon juice. 
Boil on a brisk fire for fifteen minutes, then remove the garlic; put some pieces of toasted bread 
into the soup tureen, pour the broth over, and serve the fish in a separate tureen. 


(290), BRAGANCE SOUP (Potage 4 la Bragance), 


Blanch half a pound of rice, drain, and put it into two quarts and half of boiling white broth, 
then set the saucepan on the side of the range. Roast a chicken, cut it up, break the carcass, and 
put the pieces into the soup, with the severed thighs, a few slices of raw celery root and some 
mushroom parings; cook the soup for one hour; skim off the fat, strain it without pressing, then 
return it to the saucepan to let boil on the side of the fire, and season with salt. Pound the 
white chicken meat with the addition of a piece of butter, press it through a tammy, and add to 
this preparation: one whole egg, eight yolks, two tablespoonfuls of velouté (No. 415), and as much 
raw cream, season and poach these in timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 187), buttered; at the last minute, 
pour the soup into the tureen, adding to it a few spoonfuls of green peas, and serving the timbales 
cut crosswise in a separate vegetable dish. 


(291), BRUNOISE SOUP WITH QUENELLES (Potage 41a Brunoise aux Quenelles). 


Brunoise is made with half a pound of the red part of carrots, a quarter of a pound of turnips, 
quarter of a pound of celery, quarter of a pound of leeks, quarter of a pound of onions, and a quarter 
of a pound of cabbage. Trim or cut the vegetables into quarter inch squares, the leeks to be pre- 
pared Julienne shape; mince the onions and blanch each of the vegetables in separate waters, 
except the onions and leeks. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when it 
is very hot, throw in the onions, and the leeks a few moments later; cook a little longer, then add 

all the vegetables, and fry colorless. Dilute with one pint of broth, adding a good pinch of sugar, 
and reduce slowly till the moistening is entirely evaporated, and the vegetables adhere to the bottom 
of the saucepan; moisten again with four quarts of broth, then boil, skim and continue the cooking 
for one hour and a half more. Season with salt and pepper, pour the very hot soup into a tureen 
over a garnishing of small chicken quenelles three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter laid with a 
cornet on to a buttered sheet and poached in boiling salted water, and then well drained. 


(292), CABBAGE SOUP (Potage aux Choux), 


Remove the outer leaves from a medium three pound cabbage, and divide it into four 
parts; wash well in plenty of water, then blanch in boiling water for ten minutes, with the 
addition of half a pound of salt pork, cut lengthwise in two; drain the cabbage and pork, refresh 
them thoroughly in cold water for half an hour, then drain and squeeze out all the water from the 
cabbage. Put the cabbage into a saucepan, season with a little salt and pepper and lay on top one 
pound of brisket of beef, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, two medium carrots cut in 
four, two large onions with two cloves in them, and the lard that was blanched with the cabbage. 
Moisten with three quarts of boiling water, skim, close the lid hermetically and boil slowly for 
three hours. Drain and cut the cabbage into small pieces, set them into a soup tureen, with some 
sliced bread dried in the oven, pour the soup over and serve. 


(293) CALF'S FEET SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE (Potage Pieds de veau & 1’Anglaise), 


Cut in two lengthwise, and remove the bones from four calf’s feet; blanch them, then braise 
them so that they are entirely cooked, taking about four or five hours. Strain the feet, and set 
them under a weight to reduce them toa quarter of an inch in thickness, and, when thoroughly cold, 
cut them up into inch squares. Prepare a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, half a pound 
of celery cut quarter inch squares, quarter of a pound of onions in three-sixteenth inch squares. 
Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add the onions and let fry for a 
few minutes, then the carrots, turnips and celery; fry all colorless, and moisten with the broth 
from the calf’s feet, increasing its quantity with broth so as to obtain four quarts. Boil, remove 
the fat, season with salt and pepper and thicken the soup with two heaping tablespoonfuls of fecula 
diluted in a quarter of a bottle of white wine, one gill of Madeira and a pint of tomato purée; 
then boil again, and despumate the broth. Blanch and cook for three hours in white broth, two 
ounces of pearl barley, add it to the soup, also the prepared calf’s feet. Lay on a buttered pan 





266 | THE EPICUREAN. a 


through a cornet some chicken quenelles three-eighths of an inch in diameter, colored with spinach — 
green, pour boiling salted water over, and when poached, drain and add to the soup; when : 


the whole is very hot, pour it into a soup tureen and serve. F 


(294), CALF’S TAIL A LA RUNDELL (Queue de Veau & la Rundell), = : 
Parboil twelve calves’ tails, cut them into pieces about one inch long, and fry them in butter 2 3 
with a quarter of a pound of onions, and adding one pound of carrots cut in quarter inch squares, ; 
a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Moisten with four 
quarts of broth, and allow the liquid to boil and to continue boiling slowly till the tails and vege- ‘os 

tables are thoroughly cooked, then remove the bunch of parsley. Cut two medium cabbages in 
four, plunge them into boiling, salted water, let boil for ten minutes, then drain and cut out the 
cores and other hard parts; divide each quarter into eight pieces, put them in a saucepan, pour 
the broth the tails were cooked in over it, let the cabbages boil up once, then finish the cooking in a 
slack oven for two hours. When ready to serve, lay the cabbages in a soup tureen, add the tails 
and vegetables, and pour some consommé over; season to taste and serve the soup with thin slices 2 a 
of buttered bread, browned in the oven. 


(295) CHAMBERLAIN SOUP (Potage a la Chamberlain,), 


Keep boiling on the side of the range, two quarts of thickened soup (No. 195); boil and skim 
it well. Have four ounces of minced onions, Bermuda ones in preference, blanch them in plenty 
of water, then drain and fry them in butter; moisten them with one quart of broth, adding a 
pinch of sugar. When done, press them forcibly through a fine sieve, and mix this purée to the 
thick stock; boil, then skim, and when ready to serve, thicken the soup with a thickening of four 
-egg-yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of fine butter. Serve separately a garnishing of smalt 
cream chicken forcemeat timbales molded in timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), poached and cut 
in two crosswise, putting them into a vegetable dish with a little consommé added, and serve. 


(296). CHAMPETRE SOUP (Potage Champétre). 


Despumate for twenty-five minutes on the side of the range, two quarts of thick white soup stock 
(No. 195), with a handful of mushroom parings added. Take some long French rolls called ‘‘flutes,” 
each one being one inch and a half in diameter; scrape off the superficial upper crust, and cut them 
transversely into a quarter of an inch thick slices; brown these on one side with clarified butter, 
then drain them off, leaving the butter in the pan. Cover the toasted sides of these slices with a 
paste made of fresh Swiss, Chestershire, and Parmesan cheeses, pounded and moistened with a 
little beer and Marsala wine, finishing with a pinch of cayenne pepper; dust this paste over with 
grated parmesan, return the bread to the pan, and put it into a hot oven to glaze the cheese, then 
range them on plates. Skim all the fat from the soup, strain and put it back into the saucepan, 
add half a gill of soubise purée (No. 723), mingled with four egg-yolks, butter and grated nutmeg; 
pour it into a soup tureen and serve at the same time as the cheese crusts. | 


(297), CHARTREUSE SOUP (Potage & la Chartreuse), 


Boil up two quarts of clarified veal broth; put into it four or five spoonfuls of French 
tapioca, and let cook together for twenty-five or thirty minutes; strain, and return it to the sauce- 
pan on the side of the range. Prepare with some thinly rolled out raviole paste (No. 147), four or 
five dozen small ravioles, filling them with three different preparations; one-third of them with a 
good purée of spinach, one-third with a purée or cooked foies-gras combined with a little melted 
beef extract, and the other third with finely chopped up fresh oronge-agaric, thickened with a 
little reduced sauce, or should there be no oronge-agaric then use cépes or peeled mushrooms. 
Plunge into boiling water four or five not over ripe tomatoes; drain them as soon as the skin peels 
off, and press them through a tammy, and if the purée be too thin, then let it drain on a fine sieve, 
reserving the liquid, and putting it into a saucepan with some good veal stock and reduce it to a 
half glaze. Cook the ravioles slowly in salted water for twelve to fifteen minutes with the cover 
on, then drain, and lay them in the soup tureen. Remove the soup from off the fire, mix it in 
with the purée of raw tomatoes, season, and pour it over the ravioles. 


(298), CHICKEN AND LEEK SOUP (Potage & la Volaille et aux Poireaux), 


Put into a saucepan one chicken, weighing three pounds. Let it be very fresh, drawn and 
singed; add a small split knuckle of veal, moisten with four quarts of good broth, and boil up the 


SOUPS. 267 


licuid: skim and let simmer uninterruptedly for three hours. After the chicken is three-quarters 
done, remove it and lift off the skin; mince up the flesh, and put this into a saucepan, with the 
white part of twelve leeks, cut in two inch lengths, then lengthwise in four, and blanched in boil- 
ing salted water, drain them and put them on to cook with the minced chicken. After all is well 
done, pour it into the soup tureen; season the broth properly, and strain it through a fine, damp 
napkin; add this to the tureen and serve. Have a separate garnishing of small timbales, made 
with eight egg-yolks, one pint of cream, salt, sugar, and nutmeg, strained through a sieve; fill 
some buttered timbale molds (No. 4, Fig. 137), with this preparation, poach them (No. 152), then 
unmold, cut them in two crosswise, and lay them in a vegetable dish with a little broth added. 
Serve the garnishing separately at the same time as the soup. 


(299), CHICKEN OKRA SOUP (Gombo de Volaille), 


Prepare two pounds of the breast of chicken cut into half inch squares, half a pound of salted 
raw ham cut in quarter inch squares, half a pound of onions cut in eighth inch squares and two 
pounds or eight fine tomatoes plunged into boiling water to remove their skins; then cut in four, 
and sligntly pressed to extract the seeds; four ounces of rice, picked, washed and cooked in salted 
water with half an ounce of butter, one pound of okras cut crosswise in pieces a quarter or three- 
eighths of an inch, according to their size, four ounces of finely cut up green peppers, four quarts 
of broth and four ounces of butter. Put the butter into the saucepan on the fire, and when it is 
very hot, throw in the onions to fry colorless, add the ham and let all fry together; then add the 
chicken meat; fry again slowly while stirring, till the butter is entirely clarified; then moisten with 
chicken broth made from the bones of the chicken, and four pounds of leg of veal, adding 
some beef stock. Remove ail the fat from the soup, and boil for twenty minutes; put in the okras 
and green peppers, then continue cooking until the gumbo or okras are entirely done; add the 
tomatoes, boil a few minutes longer and season with salt, Worcestershire sauce and mushroom 
catsup. Place the rice in a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. This soup is frequently 
strained and served in consommé cups. 


(800), CLAM CHOWDER (Chowder de Lucines), 


Prepare a quarter of a pound of well chopped fat pork, a small bunch of parsley chopped 
not too fine, four ounces of chopped onions, one and a half quarts of potatoes cut in seven-sixteenth 
of an inch squares; two quarts of clams retaining all the juice possible; one quart of tomatoes 
peeled, pressed and cut in half inch squares. Put the fat pork into a saucepan, and when fried, 
add the onions to fry for one minute, then the potatoes, the clams and the tomatoes; should there not 
be sufficient moistening, pour in a little water and boil the whole until the potatoes are well done. 
Add five pilot crackers broken up into very small bits; one soup spoonful of thyme leaves, two 
ounces of butter, a very little pepper and salt to taste. This quantity will make four gallons, 
sufficient for sixty persons. 


Another way.— Chop up a quarter of a pound of fat pork, melt it down, adding four ounces of 
onions cut in quarter inch dice, and fry them with the pork, without coloring, then add one and a 
half pounds of potatoes cut in half inch squares, a pound of peeled and halved tomatoes, pressed 
out and cut in five-eighth inch squares, one ounce of coarsely chopped parsley, seventy-five medium 
sized clams, removing the hard parts and chopping them up very fine, the clam juice, a littie 
salt if found necessary, pepper and thyme leaves. Boil the whole till the potatoes are cooked (the 
green part of celery chopped fine) and should the clam juice not be sufficient, then add a little 
water. 


(301), CHOWDER OF FRESH AND SALT WATER FISH A LA STEBENS (Chowder de Poisson 
d’Eau Douce et d’Eau de Mer & la Stebens), 


Fresh Water Fish.—Prepare a pound and a half of fresh water fish, such as eels, pike perch 
or wall-eyed perch (sandre), and cut in one and a half inch squares; also one pound of potatoes 
cut in half inch dice, three-quarters of a pound of minced onions, half a pound of chopped fat pork, 
and three green peppers chopped fine. Melt the pork, add to it the onions fry without coloring, 
then the add squares of potatoes and the fish, moisten to the height of the fish with water, season 
with salt and black pepper and let boil until the potatoes are cooked. This chowder must be 
thick and appear more like a stew, still, some broth can be added to it, to thin it out according 
to taste. 

Salt Water Fish.—Prepare two pounds of sea bass, sheepshead, blackfish and kingfish, cut 
them in one and a half to two inch squares, have also three-quarters of a pound of minced potatoes, 


~ 


268 THE EPICUREAN. ee 


three ounces of salt pork, and three ounces of onions. Put the salt pork into a saucepan with one F . 
ounce of butter, fry lightly with the onions, then add the potatoes and the fish, also a bunch of 


parsley garnished with thyme and summer savory; season with salt, black and red pepper, and — i 


moisten to the height of the fish with some water. Cook on a quick fire for twenty minutes, or 
until the potatoes are done, then remove the parsley, add two broken and soaked pilot crackers 


and serve. 


(302), COLD SOUP, RUSSIAN STYLE (Potage Froid 4 la Russe), 


Cut into quarter inch squares, one salted cucumber and two fresh ones, free of their 
peel and seeds, (one pound in all), put these into a soup tureen on the ice; add the meat from 
sixty crawfish, or one pound of the meat from a lobster’s claws, cut in quarter inch squares of the 


same dimension as the cucumbers; and half a pound of braized sturgeon or salmon cut in quarter. — 


inch squares; put all these on ice until ready to serve. Have one quart of sour cream, strain it 
through a tammy, also two quarts of kwass, and stir into it a few pieces of very clean ice, also the 
cucumbers and lobster laid aside; season with salt and a pinch of powdered sugar, and serve 
separately on a plate some hard boiled eggs, cut in four and sprinkled over with chervil and fennel. — 


Kwass.—In order to make twelve bottles of kwass, procure two pounds of rye, two pounds of 
wheat, and one pound of hulled barley; pour tepid water over all, and when these grains are 
swollen, add four pounds of rye flour, and mix well together with tepid water, so as to form a 
paste neither too thin nor too thick. Put this into a large earthen pot, into a hot oven, and let it — 
brown. After this has cooked five hours, pour it into a pail or barrel and mix in with it twelve 
bottlefuls of cold water; let rest for twenty-four hours, then decant the liquid and clarify it with a 
quarter of a pound of yeast mixed with a third of a bottleful of Madeira wine; rest again for five 
hours, and remove the clear part, and with this liquid fill up the bottles, setting one dry Malaga 
Taisin into each one, then cork, tie, and keep the bottles in a cool place. 


(303), CRAB AND SHRIMP SOUP A LA LOUBAT (Potage aux Crabes et aux Crevettes & 
la Loubat), | 
Wash well twenty-four hard crabs; boil them, and remove all the shells as well as the lungs; — 
cleanse them in water changing it frequently, then remove all the meat contained therein, and 
pound it while diluting with three pints of thickened fish souw stock (No. 195). Allow to 
despumate for half an hour, then skim off the fat and strain xt through a sieve, returning it to a 
clean saucepan; place this on the fire, and stir continually, and at the frst boil, skim it carefully; 
adding some red pepper; thicken the soup with six egg-yolks, half a pint of cream and three 
ounces of butter; make a garnishing of quenelles as follows: Have a pike quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 90), pushed through a cornet to form three-sixteenths of an inch beads, on a buttered tin sheet, 
and poach them in boiling, salted water; have also three-eighths inch ball of potatoes cooked in a 
very little white broth, and some shrimp tails cut into two or three pieces. 


(304), CRAWFISH SOUP A LA RENOMMEE (Potage @Ecrevisses & la Renommée), 


Boil a few dozen crawfish in a court bouillon with white wine; dra them, and detach the 
tails from the bodies, suppressing the. tail shells. Keep boiling on the side of the fire, one and a 
half quarts of thickened white soup stock; put into it the crawfish shells after pounding them, and 
let the soup despumate for thirty-five minutes, remove all the fat, strain and return it to the 
saucepan; boil it up again, and stir in cayenne pepper to taste. Take all the meat from the tails 
and claws of the crawfish, chop up the claws with the parings of the tails and claws, mixing in a 
little bread panada, red butter, a few raw egg-volks and red pepper; prepare a small forcemeat with 
this, and shape it into tiny quenelles, rolling them on a floured table; poach them, then drain and 
put them in the soup tureen with the crawfish tails cut in two lengthwise. Skim the fat from the 
soup, thicken it with four egg-yolks and two spoonfuls of purée of white asparagus tops, and also a 
little raw cream} let the thickening cook without boiling, and finish the soup with a piece of good 
butter working it vigorously with a whip. 


(305), CROUTE AU POT (Crofte au Pot). 


Put into an earthen pot (a pipkin) twelve quarts of stock, adding a piece of the rump of beef, 
which must weigh eight pounds when trimmed and free from part of its fat, and a fowl weighing 
four pounds, drawn, singed and well washed; then add one pound of carrots, half a pound of 
onions with four cloves in them, two ounces of celery, and twenty-four whole peppers. Let boil 
up, salt it, and continue boiling very slowly for three hours and a half te four hours. Remove the 








SOUPS. 269 


vegetables as soon as each one is done, pare the carrots cork shaped one inch in diameter, and cut 
them into three-sixteenth inch thick pieces; the turnips Shaped like a clove of garlic. Cut length- 
wise in two some small French rolls, make them into pieces two inches long, scoop out the. 
crumbs, and on this side besprinkle them with some good chicken fat, brown them in a hot oven. 
Lay them on a dish, the rounded side uppermost, and one beside the other; sprinkle them over 
again with chicken fat, and brown them in the oven. Cut a cabbage into four parts, wash these 
in plenty of water, and blanch in salted water for ten minutes, then drain, and refresh for half 
an hour; press well, and put it in a saucepan with a carrot cut in four, and one onion with 
cloves in it; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with stock and half a pint of chicken fat ; 
the cabbage must be covered two inches above its height, then cook for two hours. When the 
cabbage is done, drain, and serve it ina vegetable dish with the rolls around, and lay the carrots. 
and turnips on top ; send the soup to the table in a separate soup tureen. 


- (306), DOSMONT SOUP (Potage & la D’Osmont). 


Mince up four ounces of carrot, two ounces of onions, and one ounce of celery, fry these in 
four ounces of butter, adding four pounds of fresh tomatoes cut in two and pressed. Moisten 
with two quarts of broth, and let cook for half an hour, then press the whole through a fine sieve; 
put this into asaucepan, adding one quart of thick soup stock (No. 195), boil, skim, and when ready: 
to serve, taste the soup to see whether it be seasoned properly, if it should be too thick add some 
bouillon to it, and then pour it into a soup tureen with a garnishing of rice blanched and cooked in 
white consommé, also some small chicken forcemeat quenelles (No. 89) colored with spinach green. 


(307), FERMIERE STYLE SOUP (Potage & la Fermitre), 


Have four medium sized onions, four ounces of leeks, half a cabbage, suppressing the core, threes 
quarters of a pound of potatoes, four ounces of turnips, half a pound of carrots and four ounces ot 
celery, all minced up very fine, also some minced lettuce. Put one pound of scraped fat pork into a 
saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add the minced onions and leeks; fry for two minutes, and throw 
in the other vegetables and cook them without letting them get brown. Sprinkle over four spoon- 
fuls of flour, let cook and a few minutes after, dilute with four quarts of stock; stir the whole until 
it boils, then add a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, four ounces of string beans cut lozenge 
shape, and two ounces of raw ham cut in one-eighth inch squares; boil again for three-quarters of 
an hour, and then add a handful of chopped up sorrel, and a little minced chervil; season. with salt 
and pepper, remove the parsley, season to taste, and pour the soup into a soup tureen over slices of 
toasted bread or else slices of buttered bread browned in the oven. 


(308). FISH SOUP A LA PONSARDIN (Potage de Poisson & la Ponsardin), 


Out one pound of fillet of bass into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and one inch anda 
quarter in diameter; fry these in some butter, and set them under a weight; when cold pare them. 
Take the tails from one pound of shrimps, peel them, and keep the meat aside. Put into a sauce- 
pan, one very fresh bass head, also the parings cut from the fillets and the shrimps, add half a 
pound of stalks or parings of mushrooms, a quarter of a bottleful of white wine, and three quarts of 
water, also a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, carrots and minced onions; boil for thirty minutes, 
then strain. Make a blond roux with quarter of a pound of butter, and quarter ofa pound of flour; 
moisten it with the fish broth, boil, despumate, and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and lobster 
butter, with Kari; serve as a garnishing the shrimp tails and the small prepared fillets of bass. 


(309), FROG SOUP AND FROG SOUP WITH TIMBALES (Potage aux Grenouilles et aux Timbales de 


Grenouilles), 


Mince well a quarter of a pound of the white part of leeks, wet them with two quarts of fish 
broth, let boil slowly for half an hour, then press them forcibly through a sieve, returning this 
to the saucepan. Have one pound and a half of frogs, suppress half a pound from the thighs (the 
thick part of the thigh); put the balance in with the broth, and four ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; 
boil for ten minutes, then drain and pound all well. Dilute with the broth, strain it through a 
sieve, heat it up without boiling, and thicken with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the pro- 
portions being four yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of butter. Cook separate in some 
proth, the half pound of frogs kept aside; remove all the bones, and put them into the soup with a 
pluche of chervil (No. 448). 

Frog Timbales.-—Use the same soup, but instead of the garnishing of boned frog thighs, sub- 


270 THE EPICUREAN. 


stitute small timbales the shape of half a pigeon egg; butter and fill them with frog forcemeat 
(No. 222), and cream; then poach them (No. 152) in aslack oven. Unmold, and serve separately 
in a vegetable dish with a little consommé; put a timbale into each plate when serving the soup. 


(310), GARBURE WITH LETTUCE (Garbure aux Laitues). 

First wash sixteen small lettuce heads several times, changing the water each time; blanch them 
for ten minutes, then refresh and press out all the liquid from them; lay them ona cloth, season 
them with a little salt and pepper, and place on each a chicken forcemeat ball of an inch 
and a quarter in diameter, mixing in with it a little chopped chervil. Wrap up the forcemeat in 
the lettuce, fold them over, giving them a long appearance; then tie three times round with a fine 
string (lettuce for soup must not be wrapped in lard), and put them in a stewpan lined with 
carrots, onions, and a garnished bouquet. Cover with some veal stock, protect with a sheet of 
buttered paper, boil, and let the lettuce simmer for two hours, then drain, untie, and trim them 
slightly; put them into a vegetable dish, moistening them with consommé, and keep them in a 
warm place until needed. Trim off some small rye rolls, the same as for crofite-au-pot (No. 305); 
range them in a deep dish, baste them over with chicken fat, and brown them in the oven; drain 
off the fat, and when colored, moisten them with good broth, season with a little mignonette, 
and send to the table at the same time a soup tureen of consommé. Serve grated parmesan 
cheese separately. Put into each plate one of the crusts, also one lettuce and cover with 
consommé. 


(311), GIBLET SOUP A LA REGLAIN (Abatis & la Reglain), 


Prepare the giblets taken from three ducks or two geese, the necks, pinions and gizzards; 
remove the skin from the necks, cutting them off near the head, pluck the pinions and 
singe them; make a cut on the side of the gizzards to remove the inside without breaking the 
pouch, suppress the interior white skin, also the outside tough part, retaining only the soft meat, 
cut this into quarter inch squares, then divide the neck and pinions into small pieces; as well as the 
unblanched hearts. Fry slowly in four ounces of butter, the white part of six leeks cut into inch 
long pieces, then blanch, add the giblets and fry all together for fifteen minutes, then dilute 
with half a gill of Madeira wine, and one gill of broth, and let fall slowly to a glaze. Moisten 
again with three quarts of broth and boil, then simmer slowly until thoroughly cooked; strain the 
liquid through a sieve, and thicken it by working into it two heaping spoonfuls of arrowroot or 
potato fecula, diluted in a little cold water. Add to the soup, the livers braized and cooled 
off, cut into quarter of inch squares, and some blanched chervil leaves; season with salt and cayenne 
pepper and serve with a garnishing of carrots, turnips and celery cut in squares of a quarter of an 
inch, blanched and cooked separately in white broth. 


(312). GNOCQUIS SOUP A LA PAGIOLI (Potage aux Gnocquis 4 la Pagioli), 

To Make the Gnocquis.—Put a pint of milk into a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of 
butter, salt, nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne pepper. At the first boil remove the saucepan and 
add to its contents sufficient flour to make a thin paste; dry this paste on a slow fire, stirring con- 
stantly until it no longer adheres to the pan, then remove it from the fire to allow the paste to 
cool off a little, and then incorporate into it seven or eight eggs. Pour this paste into a linen bag 
furnished with a socket having an opening of an eighth of an inch, boil some water in a saucepan, 
add to it a little salt, and force the paste through the socket in the form of strings into it in 
order to poach it, and when firm, drain them and range them in a vegetable dish, alternating layers 


of gnocquis with grated parmesan cheese, then brown the whole intheoven. Serve with a separate 
tureen full of consommé. 


(313) GUMBO OR OKRA WITH HARD ORABS, CREOLE STYLE (Gombo aux Orabes durs & la 
Créole), 


Chop up a quarter of a pound of fat pork, put it intoa saucepan on the fire, adding half a 
pound of onions cut in dice, and a pound of lean beef in squares; fry all together, then add six 
peeled tomatoes cut in two, two pounds of minced young okras, twelve small cooked crabs, sup- 
pressing the shells and lungs, wash them thoroughly and split them in four, one clove of garlic, 
three green peppers minced up fine, six quarts of broth, salt, pepper and a little curry; boil all up 
till well cooked, then thicken with six tablespoonfuls of arrowroot dissolved in cold water. Serve 
separately some rice cooked in twice its quantity of water, with salt; fill some buttered molds (No, 
5, Fig. 137), with this, set it in a slow oven, unmold and serve at the same time as the soup. 





SOUPS. 271 


(314), GUMBO OR OKRA WITH SOFT SHELL CRABS (Gombo aux Crabes Moux), 


Set into a saucepan four ounces of butter to heat, add to it two ounces of shallots, four ounces 
of lean raw ham, and fry without letting attain a color; pour in four quarts of thickened fish stock, 
a quarter of a pound of finely cut up green peppers and let the whole simmer for twenty minutes, 
then add sixteen soft shell crabs cut in two or four, according to their size, and well cleansed; boii 
again for fifteen minutes and drain off the crabs; pare them nicely and return them to the sauce- 
pan with the liquid, and thicken this with eight spoonfuls of ground gumbo or okra, and some 
- good butter. Prepare a separate garnishing of rice cooked with twice its quantity of water, salt 
and lard, boiling all together for ten minutes ; fill a buttered one quart charlotte mold with this, 
‘and set it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes; unmold, and serve the same time as the soup. 


(315), HUNTERS’ STYLE SOUP (Potage 4 la Chasseur), 


Roast three partridges and one young wild rabbit, all barded with slices of fat pork; when 
done, remove the fillets from the partridges as well as from the rabbit, doing this very carefully. 
Put the rest, meat and bones, into a saucepan or stock pot, with a fowl split into pieces, and two 
pounds of small, half inch squares of beef. Moisten with four quarts of beef stock (No. 194a),let it 
boil, then skim and add some carrots, turnips, onions and two cloves; cook slowly for two hours, 
salt properly, then cut into squares the fillets taken from the partridges and rabbit. Have some 
small, round rolls, an inch and a quarter in diameter; after completely emptying them with a 
knife, fill the insides with a delicate young rabbit godiveau (No. 84), mixing in with it some 
chopped up mushrooms and truffles. Lay the rolls on a buttered pan, one beside the other, 
besprinkle them over with butter or broth, and dredge some grated parmesan cheese on top; set 
them in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, then lay them in a vegetable dish; strain the rest of 
the broth through a napkin, clarify it and boil it up again, thickening with a spoonful of tapioca 
for each quart and adding half a gill of Madeira wine. 


(816), JAPANESE OR NIZAM PEARLS. TAPIOCA, MANIOO, SAGO OR SALEP, SEMOLINO, 
CASSAVA, GLUTEN (Perles de Japon ou de Nizam, Tapioca Manioc, Sagou Salep, Semoule, 
Cassave et Gluten), 


It takes from twenty to forty minutes to cook these farinaceous foods. Let drop like rain into 
the boiling consommé, the proportion of one spoonful for each pint of liquid; boil slowly, and 
skim the surface carefully. The length of time to cook Japanese or nizam pearls, is to boil them 
for ten minutes, and finish cooking in a bain-marie, for thirty minutes longer. 

For sago and salep, boil for ten minutes, and finish cooking in a bain-marie for twenty minutes 
longer. 

French tapioca needs boiling five to ten minutes. 

Manioc tapioca which is generally used in this country requires longer cooking; it will take 
twenty minutes; it may be kept in a bain-marie for ten minutes longer. 

Gluten takes twenty minutes to cook. 

Semolino and farina, ten minutes. 

Cassava, twenty-five minutes. 


(317), JEROME SOUP WITH SWEET POTATO QUENELLES (Potage & la Jérdme aux Quenelles de 
Patates), 

Pour some game broth (No. 195), into a soup tureen; serve separately sweet potato quenelles 
as a garnishing, also some blanched tarragon leaves. Have crofitons of bread one and a quarter 
inches in diameter, covered with butter and browned in the oven; serve them at the same time as 
the soup and garnishings. 


Sweet Potato Quenelles.—Bake some sweet potatoes in the oven, remove their insides when 
they are done so as to obtain a half pound of potato; and add while mashing them one ounce of 
butter, one ounce of grated parmesan, one whole egg, one yolk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, also 
one tablespoonful of potato fecula. Make some flattened oval shaped quenelles, poach and serve 
when done with the soup. 


(318), JULIENNE SOUP FAUBONNE AND MOGUL (Potage 4 la Julienne Faubonne et Mogol) 


To Cut the Vegetables.—Cutting vegetables Julienne, is the act of dividing them into slices 
either long or short, thick or thin. There is fine, medium and large Julienne. 


272 THE EPICUREAN. 





In order to accomplish this, cut first the Hoste or meats hth thin slices, then divide theta i. 
into bands of an equal width, so as to cut them transversely into fillets as wide as they are > 
thick, or in other words square; the fine Julienne is five-eighths of an inch long by little over one- — 
sixteenth of an inch square; the medium is seven eighths of an inch long by one-eighth of an inch te “s 
square, and the large Julienne is cut one and three- quarters to two inches long by three-sixteenth 
of an inch square. The vegetables cut in Julienne are usually intended for soups, while chicken, — 
game, foies-gras, truffles, tongue and mushrooms are used for garnishings. 


For Julienne.—Put into a saucepan containing six quarts, four ounces of butter, add a 
vegetable Julienne cut one and three-quarter inches by three-sixteenths of an inch square, six ounces: 
of the red part of carrots, four ounces of turnips, two ounces of leeks, two ounces of celery root and 
two qunees of minced onion. Blanch the carrots, turnips and celery separately, should they be 
hard; place the saucepan on a slow fire to simmer the roots without browning them, then moisten 
with two gills of broth, let fall slowly to a glaze and begin again, until the vegetables are nearly 
cooked, being careful to stir them occasionally. _Moisten with three quarts more of boiling broth, 
let boil, skim, remove the fat, and add four ounces of cabbage leaves, suppressing the hard part 
and cutting them up fine and blanching them, boil all together till the vegetables are cooked, then — 
add a chiffonnade composed of a handful of sorrel, the leaves of a lettuce head and _a little cheryil, 
all well cleaned, washed, pressed and cut up fine. Boil again for fifteen minutes, then skim and 
season with salt and sugar. Serve the Julienne with green peas cooked in salted. water; slices of 
bread crofitons may also be served separately, with the Julienne or else poached -eggs or quenelles. 


For Julienne Faubonne.—Have two quarts of Julienne and one quart of purée of peas 
mixed. 

For Julienne Mogul.—One quart of Julienne, one quart of purée of peas and one quart of 
purée of tomatoes. 


(819), KNUCKLE OF VEAL A LA BRIAND (Jarrets de Veau 2 la Briand), 


Put into a stockpot eight quarts of broth with eight pounds of knuckle of veal; boil the liquid, 
skim, and then add to it six leeks, two celery roots, a bunch of parsley, and a freshly roasted young 
pullet weighing three pounds, continue to boil till the meat is all cooked. After the knuckles 
are done, bone them and set the meat undera weight to flatten it down to one quarter of an 
inch in thickness, and when cold cut it up into quarter of an inch squares. Take the chicken out 
of the soup as soon as it is cooked, and set it away to cool, then cut off all the meat, omitting the 
skin and bones, and cut this meat into quarter of inch squares. Skim the fat from the stock, 
strain it through a sieve, and return it to the saucepan, having previously washed it, add the 
squares of chicken and veal to this, and let the whole simmer for half an hour, with the addition 
of four ounces of rice, blanched and cooked in consommé, half a pound of lean, cooked ham, cut 
into quarter of inch squares, and eight tomatoes, plunged into boiling water; peel off the skin 
then cut into four, and squeezed lightly so as to remove the seeds; boil again for twenty 
minutes, skim and season the soup to taste and serve very hot. Braised lettuce as explained 
for Garbure soup (No. 310) to be served in a separate vegetable dish. 


(320), LAMB OR VEAL SWEETBREAD SOUP, GERMAN STYLE (Potage de ris d’Agneau ou de 
Veau & ]’Allemande) | 


Blanch some lamb or veal sweetbreads, by placing them in a saucepan with sufficient water to 
cover them; let the liquid boil, then remove from the hot fire, until they are firm to the touch; set 
them under a weight to reduce them to one half of an inch thick, when cold cut them up in 
squares, two pounds in all. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when very hot, lay in 
the sweetbreads and fry them slowly without coloring, moisten with three pints of broth, and three 
pints of velouté (No. 415), let come to a boil while stirring continually, and then cook slowly 
until the sweetbreads are thoroughly done; thicken the soup just when about serving, with two 
egg-yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of fine butter; these proportions being for one 
quart of soup. For garnishing fry in butter all the fragments, drain off the butter, set thent aside 
to cool, and chop them up very fine, with as much cooked mushrooms, and mix with this half its 
quantity of veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) and chopped parsley; Season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg, then divide this preparation into equal parts, so as to make small balls five-eighths of an 
inch in diameter, lay them ona tin sheet, and poach them in a slow oven. Have some noodles 
(No. 142) acoked 3 in salted water; pour the soup into a soup-tureen, and add to it the quenelles, 
the sweetbreads, the noodles and some finely chopped parsley. 


SOUPS. 203 


(321), LOBSTER AND ORAWFISH SOUP, DUKE ALEXIS (Potage de Homard et d’Ecrevisses au 
: Duc Alexis), 


Mince finely some carrots, onions and celery; fry them in butter, and moisten with one 
quart of white wine and two quarts of broth, adding four peeled tomatoes cut in two and pressed. 
Vut into this stock, eighteen crawfish, let them boil for five minutes, then lift them out, and put 
in four pounds of live lobsters, selecting the smallest ones procurable, and cook them for half am 
hour, then drain them, and pick out all their meats, keeping aside only the meat from the claws, 
and pounding the rest; dilute this with the above stock, adding one quart of thickened fish soup: 
stock (No. 195); strain through a sieve and heat up to boiling point, but do not allow it to boil; 
thicken it with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportion being two raw egg-yolks, one 
gill of cream and two ounces of fine butter for each quart of soup. Detach the tails from the 
bodies of the crawfish; suppress the belly side so as to keep only the thin shells of the bodies, and 
stuff these with the crawfish meat, chopped up fine and mixed in with an equal quantity of fish. 
foreemeat made with crawfish, butter (No. 573), season well, and poach them in boiling, salted! 
water. Put these stuffed bodies into the soup as garnishing, and if too large cut them in two 
lengthwise. 


(322), MENESTRONE MILANESE SOUP (Potage Menestrone & la Milanaise), 


Chop up half a pound of fat fresh pork, put it into a saucepan with a clove of garlic, half a 
pound of raw ham cut in dice, three-sixteenths of an inch square, half a pound of string beans, cut 
lozenge shape, half a pound of small flageolet beans and half a pound of Kohl sprouts cut in quarter 
inch squares. Fry all these vegetables with the ham in the chopped up fat pork, moisten with six 
quarts of*broth, boil, skim, then add one pint of green peas, one pound of asparagus tops, andi 
half a pound of broad or lima beans, after removing their outer skins, and also eight medium 
peeled and quartered tomatoes. Boil the whole, and when these vegetables are nearly done, 
twenty minutes before serving, add a quarter of a pound of blanched rice. Cook some smoked 
sausages, by soaking them for ten minutes in boiling water, then lift them out and peel them, 
eut into slices, and put them into the soup; suppress the clove of garlic, and serve with grated 
parmesan separate. / 


(323). MARSHALL SOUP (Potage & la Marshall), 


Make a garnishing of stuffed cucumbers, by peeling three small cucumbers, divide them cross- 
ways into parts each a quarter of an inch high, and blanch the pieces for fifteen minutes in salted 
water, then drain, cut out the center with a three-quarter inch column tube, so as to remove 
the seeds; fill the insides with a raw fine herb quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and range them in a 
saucepan garnished with salt pork; moisten them with broth, add some salt, cover with buttered 
paper, and leave them to cook slowly. Despumate on the side of the fire two quarts of consommé, 
thickening it with two dessertspoonfuls of fecula diluted in two gills of Madeira wine; pour the 
soup into a soup tureen and serve the cucumbers at the same time, but in a separate vegetable dish. 


(324), MEISSONIER SOUP (Potage & la Meissonier), 


Despumate on the side of the range, about three quarts of thickened soup, prepared with 
mutton broth. Remove the fat and hard parts from a cold, braised saddle of mutton; then take 
one pound of lean meat and pound it, mixing with it when cold, three minced white onions fried 
in butter and cooked in consommé. Pound all well together, and rub it forcibly through a fine 
sieve, and put this purée into a bowl with a little cayenne pepper and from four to eight raw egg- 
yolks, diluting with two gills of cream. At the last moment skim the fat from the soup, strain, 
and return it to the saucepan to let boil up, then set it aside and thicken it at once with the above 
preparation; heat it once more without boiling, and finish the soup with a piece of butter; pour 


it into a soup tureen and serve with a plateful of hot, small, round pieces of toasted bread. 


(325), MONTEILLE SOUP (Potage a la Monteille), 
cken consommé (No. 190), garnished with stuffed lettuces (No. 2752), and cucumbers 
Cut off the ends of the cucumbers, peel them nicely, and divide them length- 
remove the seeds, pare them to resemble cloves of garlic, then fry them in 
butter in a saucepan, season, and finish cooking them in a little white broth, in such a way that 
they are thoroughly done when the liquid is entirely reduced. Serve separately the lettuce and 
cucumbers in a vegetable dish, and at the same time a tureen of chicken consommé. 


Serve a chi 
prepared as follows: 
wise into inch pieces; 


24 THE EPICUREAN. 


(326), MONTORGUEIL SOUP (Potage & la Montorgueil). 


Keep boiling on the side of the fire, one and a half quarts of thickened chicken soup stock 
(No. 195), despumating it for forty minutes. Prepare a garnishing of tender vegetables, composed 
of green peas, string beans, green or white asparagus tops, small Brussels sprouts, small new 
carrots whole or cut up, some of the tender leaves picked from a cabbage, and some well minced 
lettuce and sorrel leaves. These vegetables must be blanched separately according to their nature, 
only the sorrel leaves remaining raw. One hour before serving, skim off the fat from the soup, 
strain the broth, and return it to the saucepan ; boil the liquid on the side of the range, add the 
vegetables according to their tenderness, the hardest ones first, and finally the cut up leaves. 
Now put into an earthern bowl, five or six egg-yolks, dilute them with a little cream, add some 
grated nutmeg and a few small pats of butter; thicken the soup with this, and finish with a small 
piece more butter, mixed with some spinach green. Pour it into a soup tureen and serve. 


(827), MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, INDIAN STYLE (Potage Mullagatawny 4 I’Indienne), 


Put eight quarts of broth into a saucepan with two knuckles of veal, sawed crosswise into 
four pieces, and some fragments of chicken; boil, skim and add a bunch of parsley garnished with 
bay leaf anda clove of garlic; season with salt, pepper, mace and cloves; boil slowly for three 
hours, then remove the veal knuckles and cut off all the meat adhering to the bones, and set it 
under a weight to press it to a quarter of an inch thick and let get cool and cut up into quarter of 
inch squares. Strain the broth through a sieve, and skim off the fat. Have half a pound of carrots, 
half a pound of turnips, half a pound of onions, two ounces of knob celery, six apples and four 
ounces of ham, all well minced, adding one pound of boneless chicken meat, after removing the 
skin and fat, and cutting it in five-eighths inch squares. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan, 
heat it well, then begin first by frying the onions, afterward the carrots, turnips, ham, knob celery, 
apples and chicken. When all are fried and slightly colored, add to them six tablespoonfuls of 
flour, mixing it in well, then dilute with the broth, let boil and continue to boil until every article 
is well cooked; season and add three teaspoonfuls of curry, and a little sugar, drain, remove the 
pieces of chicken and press the vegetables through a sieve. Put this purée back into the saucepan, 


return it to the fire with the veal and chicken, and stir from the bottom of the saucepan until 


boiling point. Let simmer for twenty-five minutes, taste and see if the seasoning be correct, then 
serve. Send to the table at the same time, some rice boiled in salted water, mixing in some lard 
or butter. 


(328), MUSSEL SOUP A LA VIGO (Potage de. Moules & la Vigo), 


For Ten Persons.—Take two ounces or one medium sized onion, cut it in one-eighth of an 
inch squares, and fry brownless in some butter, add to this sixty medium mussels previously 
cooked in very little water and white wine (no salt), parsley, thyme and bay leaf; when the shells 
open they are done, remove them from the shells ; from each one remove the black and nervous 
part, being careful not to break them while doing so. Strain the broth, let it settle so as to be 
able to pour off the clear top, put a little of the broth with the mussels and keep them warm. Put 
the rest of the broth in a saucepan with two quarts of thickened lean fish stock (No. 195). Boil 
and despumate for ten minutes, then thicken with six egg-yolks, diluted in half a pint of cream 
and four ounces of fine butter. Put into the soup tureen four ounces of mushrooms cut in small 
Julienne, also the mussels; pour the boiling soup over and serve. 


(329), MUTTON A LA OOWLEY AND MUTTON HOCHEPOT (Mouton & la Cowley et Mouton & 
la Hochepot). 


Bone and remove carefully the skin, nerves, and fat from three necks of mutton, cutting the 
meat into three-eighth inch squares. Putintoa saucepan the fragments, bones and parings taken 
from the necks, also a split knuckle of veal; moisten with eight quarts of broth, and put it on the 
fire in order to boil the liquid; skim, and add some carrots, turnips, bunch of celery, leeks, and 
onions, all minced up fine, seasoning with pepper, salt, and cloves. Boil slowly and uninterrupt- 
edly for two hours; then skim off the fat, and strain the broth through a sieve. Put six ounces of 
butter into a saucepan, with four ounces of one-eighth inch squares of onions; add four ounces of 
leeks cut Julienne shape, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, two ounces of celery, 
all being cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and the meat from the necks previously prepared; 





SQUERS, 25 


moistening the whole with the broth, and cook for two hours. Then free it from fat, season and 
add a garnishing of small chicken quenelles (No. 154), shaped as large peas and a pluche of chervil. 
A supplementary garnishing may be added of rice, or of pearl barley. 


For Mutton Hochepot, use the mutton the came as explained for the above, adding for each 
quart of broth, one pint of the purée of dried peas, and half a pint of purée of spinach. For all 
mixed clear soups, the consistency should be approximately after the soup is drained, two-thirds of 
liquid to one-third of solid matter, while for thick soups, three-quarters liquid to one-quarter 
solid. 


(330), NOODLE SOUP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Potage aux Nouilles au Parmesan). 


For the Paste.—Sift through a fine sieve, half a pound of flour, moisten it with four egg- 
yolks and one whole egg, adding a little salt and water; work well together and knead it till the 
paste is thoroughly well mixed, roll it down to one-sixteenth inch in thickness; let it dry in the open 
air; then fold it up, one inch and a half wide, and cut this into fine strips, dredging them over 
with flour, to prevent them sticking together; blanch them in boiling, salted water for one minute, 
then drain and put them into a saucepan with some consommé to simmer for five minutes; remove 
all the fat from the top, and serve in a soup tureen with some good consommé. Serve separately 
some grated parmesan cheese. 


(331), ONION SOUP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE BROWNED, AND THICKENED ONION SOUP 


Xx 


(Soupe a ]’Oignon et au Parmesan Gratiné et Soupe a l’Oignon liée), 


Cut into small eighth of an inch squares, two medium or four ounces of onions, fry them 
in butter and moisten with two quarts of broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil, 
bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with a little salt, pepper and some meat extract; boil for 
twenty minutes, then remove the bouquet, and pour the soup over very thin slices of bread placed 
in a metal soup tureen, in intervening layers of bread and cheese, parmesan, finishing with the 
parmesan, and sprinkle a little over the top of the soup. Bake in a hot oven. 


Onion Sowp Thickened.—To prepare onion soup cut up two medium onions, mince them 
finely, and fry them colorless in butter, adding two dessertspoonfuls of flour, and cooking it a few 
moments with the onions, then dilute with two quarts of broth. Season with pepper and a little 
salt, boil for ten minutes, and just when ready to serve thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks 
diluted in cream, and a little fine butter. Pour the soup over round, thin slices of bread, about 
one inch and a quarter in diameter, dried in the oven. 


(332). OXTAIL SOUP A LA SOYER (Potage de Queue de Bouf & la Soyer), 


Cut three oxtails into small pieces from the thin end, stopping at the third joint from the thick 
end, and keep this large piece aside for braising (No. 1324). Put four ounces of butter into 
a saucepan; cut four ounces of the red part of a carrot, and the same quantity of turnip 
into quarter inch squares, add these to the butter after it is hot, also a bunch of parsley, garnished 
with one bay leaf, and fry without letting attain a color, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour and 
the tails; cook all together to a light brown, afterward moistening with four quarts of broth, 
and adding a quarter of a pound of blanched onions, cut in squares. Season with salt and Worces- 
tershire sauce, boil slowly and continuously until the meat is done. Have cooked separately for 
three hours in some white broth, two ounces of pearl barley, add this to the soup, also one gill of 
sherry when serving. If clear oxtail be needed, suppress the flour and barley, and thicken with three 
spoonfuls of arrowroot diluted in a little cold water. 


(333), OYSTER SOUP, AMERICAN STYLE (Soupe aux Huitres @ l’Américaine), 


For Ten Persons.—Put sixty medium oysters including their juice, and as much water, into 
a tin saucepan with a perforated cover (Fig. 186), specially made for this soup; season with salt 
and pepper, and set them on a quick fire; as soon as the steam escapes through the holes on the 
cover, remove the saucepan from the fire, and pour into it two and a half gills of milk, and twe and 
a half ounces of butter, then serve. In those establishments whose specialty is oysters, before 
serving oyster soup, they place before each person a plateful of finely minced raw cabbage (cold 
slaw); this cabbage is to be seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and tomato catsup. 


276 THE EPICUREAN. 


(334), OYSTER SOUP A LA ORUYST (Soupe aux Huitres a la Oruyst), 


For Ten Persons.—Mince up the white part of a small leek, and cut one small onion into one- — 
eighth inch squares; fry these colorless in two ounces of butter, add two ounces of bread-crumbs, 
frying it in with the onion, and also sixty oysters with their own juice and a quart and a half of — 
fish broth. Set the saucepan over a quick fire, and stir vigorously to prevent the oysters from 
sticking to the bottom, then skim, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when ready to serve 
thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportions for each quart being, 
two egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter. Stir in also, when serving, a little 
chopped parsley. 


(335), OYSTER SOUP, FRENCH STYLE (Soupe aux Huitres 4 la Francaise), 


Cut two ounces of onions into eighth of an inch squares; fry them without coloring in some 
butter, and add sixty medium oysters with as much water as there is oyster juice; then season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place the saucepan on the fire, and remove again at the first boil, lay the 
oysters into a soup tureen and strain the broth through a fine sieve, returning it to the fire to add 
to it half a pint of béchamel (No. 409), and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and butter, the pro- 
portions for each quart being, three raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of good. 
butter. Make a garnishing of pike quenelles (No. 90), adding to it some cooked fine herbs; another 
garnishing may also be used, composed of round bread crotitons, each one inch in diameter, 
sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven; serve these separately, but at the same time as. 
the soup. 


(336), OYSTER SOUP WITH POWDERED OKRA OR GUMBO (oupe aux Huitres au Gombo en . 
poudre), 


Mince a two ounce onion finely, fry it in two ounces of butter without letting it attain a color, 
then add sixty medium oysters with their juice, and the same quantity of water, season with salt 
and red pepper, then place the saucepan on a quick fire and remove at the first boil; skim and 
thicken with two spoonfuls of powdered gumbo for each quart of soup. Have some rice boiled in. 
salted water; when done, mix in with it a little butter and set it in a buttered mold, place it ina 


hot oven for ten minutes and serve this separately, but at the same time as the soup, after 
unmolding it. . tte 


(337), SOUP WITH OYSTER RAVIOLES (Soupe aux Ravioles d’Huitres). 


Poach in white wine three or four dozen large oysters, drain them, and keep the broth; cut the 
oysters into small dice, and thicken this salpicon with three spoonfuls of pike forcemeat (No. 90), 
and as much reduced béchamel (No. 409). With this salpicon and some raviole paste (No. 147), rolled 
out very thin, prepare some small round ravioles, cutting them out with a pastry cutter one inch 
and a quarter in diameter. Put to boil on the side of the fire, three quarts of thickened fish stock 
{No. 195); add to this the oyster broth, and despumate the whole for twenty-five minutes; at the 
last moment remove all the fat, and thicken the soup with a thickening of four or five egg-yolks, 
eream, butter, season to taste with salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the soup into a tureen, add 
to it the ravioles, previously cooked for twelve minutes in salted water. 


(338), PARTRIDGE SOUP A LA ROYALE (Potage de Perdreau a la Royale), 


Put to boil on the side of the fire, two quarts of thickened game stock (No. 195). Pound the 
meat taken from the breasts of two cooked and cold partridges; press them forcibly through a 
sieve, and put this purée into a bowl to dilute with seven or eight egg-yolks, and a few spoonfuls 
of raw cream; season it to taste. Fill small buttered timbale molds (No. 2. Fig. 137) with this prep- 
aration, poach them (No. 152). Break up the partridge bones, add them to thesoup, alsoa bunch 
of aromatic herbs, and some mushroom parings. Twenty minutes later skim off the fat, season 
and strain the soup through a tammy, and return it again to the saucepan; boil it up twice, and 
then stir in four spoonfuls of Madeira wine, meanwhile keeping it very hot. At the last moment 
unmold the small poached timbales; put in the soup tureen, and gently pour the soup over them. 





SOUPS. ae Q77 


(339),‘ITALIAN OR GENOA PASTES; LASAGNE, LASAGNETTE, TAGLIARELLI, MACCARONT, 
VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI, PAILLETTES, MACCARONCELLI, FLORENCE SNOW 
(Pate d'Italie ou de Génes; Lasagne, Lasagnette, Tagliarelli, Maccaroni, Vermicelli, Spaghetti, 
Paillettes, Maccaroncelli et Neige de Florence), ; 


All these various pastes are to be previously blanched by throwing them into boiling water for 
five or ten minutes according to their respective thickness. When blanched, drain them, and 
finish cooking in broth or consommé, the proportion being half a pound of paste to three or four 
quarts of liquid. Put the paste intoa soup tureen and pour the soup over, serving at the same 
time on a separate plate, some grated parmesan cheese. — 


Lasagne, Lasagnette and Tagliarelli.—Blanch of these one half pound for five minutes, 
cook them in a quart of broth, and serve in a tureen with consommé, 


Maccaront, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Paillettes, Maccaroncelli.—For the large macaroni, blanch 
half a pound for twelve minutes or less in proportion to their thickness, when done, drain, and 
cook them in a quart of broth. Serve in asoup tureen with consommé. 


Italian or Genoa Pastes and Vermicelli.—Blanch half a pound of these for five minutes, drain 
and cook them in a quart of broth, serve in a soup tureen with consommé. 


Florence Snow.—Florence snow is made of fine gluten paste, extremely white and distributed 
into very fine shavings. This paste does not require any cooking; range it on plates and pass it 
round to the guests, after serving the soup, when each one takes some if so desired. This paste 
dissolves as soon as it comes in contact with a hot liquid. 


(840), PATERSON SOUP (Potage & la Paterson), 


Put into a saucepan on the fire three quarts of broth, and when boiling, dredge into it 
five spoonfuls of tapioca; let it cook for twenty-five minutes, being careful to remove all the scum 
arising on the surface, then strain and keep it warm. Have a garnishing of timbales of purée of 
green peas made as follows: One pint of purée of green peas, into which mix one whole egg and 
four yolks, salt, sugar and nutmeg; pour this into buttered timbale molds (No. 8, Fig. 137), place 
the molds in a pan with water to half their height, and poach them ina slack oven, unmold and cut 
them in two crosswise; have also small three-eighths of an inch pearl quenelles (No. 154), also 
‘some mushrooms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. 


(341), PILAU, TURKISH STYLE (Pilau a la Turque). 


Pat two knuckles of veal into a saucepan with eight quarts of broth, a few slices of raw ham, 
one chicken, and a roasted shoulder of lamb; boil up the liquid, skim, and add to it three carrots, 
two turnips, one celery stalk, six leeks, two onions, and two cloves; continue to boil slowly, till 
each one of the meats is done, then take them out as fast as cooked; strain the broth, remove all 
the fat, and clarify it, then reduce it one-quarter. Out the chicken into small pieces, and put 
them into the soup; mince the shoulder of lamb, cut the ham into small dice, and after placing the 
knuckle of veal under a weight to get cool, cut it up into squares, and add all these to the soup, 
with some salt, red pepper, a slight infusion of saffron, and half a pound of blanched Sultana 
raisins. Parboil a quarter of a pound of rice for ten minutes in boiling, salted water, drain, and 
put it into three pints of boiling white broth; at the first boil, remove it from the fire, cover, 
and finish cooking in a cool oven for twenty-five minutes; when done, put it into the soup and 
serve, 


(342), POT-AU-FEU (Pot-au-feu). | 

For Sixteen Persons.—Have a soup-pot of enameled or lined cast-iron containing sixteen quarts 
of liquid; put into it a piece of boned, rolled and tied up, rump of beef weighing eight pounds and 
eight quarts of water or beef stock. Put the pot on the fire; heat it so as to bring the liquid toa 
boil, then skim it off carefully at the first boil, and set the pot back from the hot fire. Roast the 
bones taken from the meat, also one pound of knuckle of veal and some chicken giblets, add them 
to the soup, and leave it on one side or on a gas stove, watching it well to see that it boils slowly 
and continuously, on one side only, so as to obtain a very clear broth; let the meats cook for four 
or five hours, more or less according to their thickness and tenderness, and when the beef is lLalf 
done, strain slowly the liquid through a sieve without disturbing it. Remove the piece of rum >, 
empty the pot, clean it well, and return to it the meat and the broth, after having partially remoyea 


avs THE EPICUREAN. 


the fat, then put the saucepan back on the fire, and at the first boil mix to ita pound and a half of 
the white part of leeks tied together, a pound and a half of large carrots, three-quarters of a poune 
of turnips, half a pound of celery-knob or root, onc medium onion with two cloves and one 
ounce of parsnips, then add one or two young chickens weighing three pounds each, trussed 
and browned in the oven. Continue to boil all very slowly, being careful to remove the- 
chicken and meat as fast as they are done; also the vegetables, keeping them warm. Saw 
sixteen pieces from a marrow-bone each one inch long, wrap them up in separate pieces. 
of linen, tie them, and poach them for eight minutes in the boiling broth. At the. 
last moment salt and color the broth properly, and strain it through a silk sieve or a 
damp napkin, keeping it warm. Have two vegetable dishes of braised cabbage, the leeks, carrots, 
turnips, and celery arranged in clusters, and neatly trimmed so that every person may be able 
to help himself to one or the other as desired. Toast, or butter, and then color in the oven, 
thirty-two crofitons of bread three-sixteenths of an inch thick, by one and a half inches in: 
diameter, also have the sixteen pieces of prepared marrow. Pour the soup into the soup tureen, 
and send the vegetables to the table, separately, also the crotitons and marrow. When serving 
the soup, put into each plate a piece of marrow bone, two croitons and some soup, and pass the- 
dishes containing the vegetables around separate. The boiled beef can be served at the same time, 
dressing it on to a dish, and surrounding it with the chicken cut in pieces, and branches of: 
parsley; serve at the same time a sauceboat of tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(343), RICE SOUP A LA RUDINI (Potage au rizala Rudini), 


Put a quarter of a pound of picked and washed rice into a saucepan, with two quarts of cold 
water, set it on the fire, and stir occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom; let it 
boil up once, then refresh it, finish cooking itin consommé with a piece of fine butter, and a pinch of 
black pepper; mingle in with it when done, three ounces of grated parmesan cheese, four raw egg- 
yolks, and set it away to get cold. Divide this preparation into small five-eighth inch diameter- 
balls ; a few moments before serving roll them on to a dish containing two beaten eggs, drain them. 
and put them one by one into new frying fat not too hot, and let them assume a nice golden color;,. 
then drain them again, and dry them in a napkin. Have two quarts of thickened chicken broth. 
(No. 195), bring it to a boil, and remove it from the fire. Place four egg-yolks in a bowl, dilute them. 


with one gill of cold broth, add four ounces of fine butter divided in small pieces, pour slowly into. 


this thickening a quarter of the stock while stirring continually; return it to the rest of the stock, 
working it in briskly with a whisk, season to taste; pass it through a fine sieve or tammy. Pour this 
into a soup tureen, and serve separate a garnishing of the rice balls, and a plateful of grated: 
Parmesan cheese, 


(344), SHERMAN SOUP (Potage 4 la Sherman), 


Have a garnishing of stuffed cabbage leaves, prepared as follows: Blanch some cabbage- 
leaves, drain and trim them nicely, then fill the insides with a quenelle and cooked fine herb force- 
meat (No. 89), roll them up and lay them one beside the other, cover them with bouillon and a sheet 
of buttered paper, cook in a slack oven for two hours, being careful to add some moistening when. 
they become too reduced. Out some carrots into three-eighth inch balls, blanch and cook them in 
broth ; prepare a pluche of chervil; chervil leaves free of stalks, thrown into boiling water for one 
minute, then drained. Cut the cooked cabbage in slices of a quarter of an inch leayes, lay them 
on a deep dish, and dust over some grated parmesan cheese, over this place some thin slices of 
buttered bread browned in the oven, then another layer of cabbage, cheese and bread; pour over- 
some very fat broth, besprinkle grated parmesan on top, and bake in the oven. Pour some con- 
sommé into a soup tureen, add the carrots and chervil, and serve the baked cabbage apart. 


(345), SHRIMP SOUP, MIGNON (Potage aux Orevettes Mignon), 


Keep boiling on the side of the fire one quart and a half of thickened fish stock (No. 195). 
Break off the tails from a hundred cooked red shrimps, pick the meat from the shells, trim them. 
and pound the parings with one-third of the picked tails, selecting the smallest ones for this; also- 
a piece of butter and four egg-yolks, then press all through a sieve; keep the purée in a cool place, 
also the remainder of the picked tails cut in small dice. Put into the boiling soup half of the- 
pounded shells; with a smallest size root spoon, five-sixteenth of an inch, cut out some very small 
cooked truffle balls, and set these into another small saucepan; divide into two equal parts the 
value of four or five spoonfuls of raw fish quenelle forcemeat WNo. 90); into one mix some Breton 





=) Usb: 279 


carmine, leaving the other half white; place these two forcemeats separately into a paper cornet, 
and push them through on to a buttered baking sheet to form beads; poach them separately in 
salted water, drain and lay them in the soup tureen. From one quart of shelled green peas select 
one to two gills of the smallest and tenderest, and boil them in water; when drained, add them to 
the quenelles in the soup tureen. After the soup is well despumated, remove all its grease and 
strain it through a tammy; return it to a clean saucepan, let it boil, adding to it three spoonfuls 
of Madeira wine; two minutes later, thicken it with the shrimp purée and cook this thickening 
without letting it boil. Remove, and finish with a dash of cayenne pepper and a piece of red 
butter. Pour the soup into the tureen, add to it the shrimp tails, butter and truffles, and serve at once. 


(346), SMALL INDIVIDUAL SOUP-POTS (Petites Marmites Individuelles), 


There are two different waysof serving these. The first by making the soup in small soup-pots 
each one containing one-half a quart or more. diminishing the proportions of meat, vegetables and 
liquid, either of water or broth, after the proportions indicated in the pot-au-feu (No. 342). The 
second is to serve the pot-au-feu when it is ready, with the 
contents, dividing it into small individual pots, making an 
equal division of the meats, vegetables and liquid, into as many 
parts as there are half quarts of soup; and divide as well the 
meats, vegetables, and liquid into small two quart pots, having 
the meats and vegetables the same size as for the pint ones; for 
the one or the other use only half the beef meat well pared; the 
carrots, turnips, and celery cut into cylindricals, and divided 
into small parts, and each chicken into sixteen pieces; (Before 
using the small stone pots, they should be lined with the frag- 
i =. ments of the chickens and vegetables, aromatics and spices, and 

a a cooked in the oven for twelve hours, pouring at intervals boiling 

cee water into them, so that they remain always full, then washed 

well out before using.) After the pots are filled, pour over the very hot broth, adding a table- 

spoonful of braised cabbage and the leeks divided, then boil the contents for a few minutes, and 

just when ready to serve, add for each pint four marrow bones sawed into inch thick pieces. 

Dress them over napkins on a plate. Each guest should have his individual soup-pot containing a 

little over a pint, and serve at the same time slices of toasted bread or bread buttered and browned 
in the oven, the size being three-sixteenths by one and one-half inches in diameter. 





(847), SORREL, SORREL WITH HERBS, AND SORREL FLEMISH STYLE (Oseille, Oseille aux 
Herbes et Oseille & la Flamande), 


Remove the stalks from a good handful of sorrel, mince it up fine, then fry it in two ounces 
of good butter, and moisten with two quarts of broth or water; season with salt and a dash of sugar, 
and let boil for fifteen minutes. Cut thin slices from some French rolls, butter them, and put them 
in the hot oven to brown; set them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over. 

Sorrel with Herbs.—Sorrel soup may also be made by mincing fine a small handful of sorrel, 
half as much lettuce, and quarter as much chervil as lettuce. Melt and heat two ounces of 
butter in a saucepan, put in the herbs, fry them, and then moisten with two quarts and a half of 
broth or water, boil slowly for half an hour, and just before serving pour in gradually a thickening 
of four egg-yolks, a gill of cream, and one ounce of fine butter. A garnishing may be served of 
crotitons dried in the oven, or some vermicelli. 

Flemish Style.—For sorrel, Flemish style, prepare the soup as in the first article above, 
the only difference to observe is, that before putting in the sorrel, fry some leeks, onions, potatoes 
and artichoke bottoms, all minced up very fine; add the sorrel, and finish as for the above. 
Serve with a garnishing of rice cooked in white broth, and some green peas. 


(348), SPAGHETTI WITH CREAM (Spaghetti & la Oréme). 


Melt four ounces of butter in a saucepan, adding two dessert spoonfuls of flour; cook the flour 
slowly, so as to make a blond roux, then dilute with two quarts of consommé, stir the liquid until 
it boils, moye it aside at once, and continue to boil slowly and uninterruptedly for twenty-five 
minutes, strain through a fine strainer, and put it back into a clean saucepan. Cook in salted 
water, some spaghetti macaroni, drain it and cut it up in one inch length pieces, having about one 


280 THE EPICUREAN. 


pound, and put this in with the consommé. Place in a bowl four raw egg- -yolks, with two ounces 
of grated parmesan, dilute it with two gills of raw cream, and one ounce of butter; pour this 
thickening into the soup, and let heat without boiling; season, and serve it in a soup tureen. The 
spaghetti can be replaced by any of the Italian pastes. 


(349). SPANISH OILLA (Oilla @ l’'Espagnole), 


Put to soak in tepid water for twelve hours, half a pound of chick peas (Garbanzos). Set in 
an earthen pot, or any other kind, six pounds of lean breast of beef, three pounds of leg of mut- 
ton cut near the knee bone, half a pound of unsmoked salt pork, cut in one piece and then blanched, 
and half a pound of smoked ham, well pared and blanched. Cover with water, add the garbonzos 
boil and skim, maintaining a slow ebullition. Two hours after, put in the broth, one fowl, two 
partridges, a piece of squash weighing one pound, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, 
a bunch of parsley with a bay leaf, and clove of garlic, and one pound of chorissos sausages (garlic 
sausage). Blanch twelve lettuce heads, also two cabbages cut in four. After removing the cores 
(the hard part), take out the meats as soon as they are severally done, cool them partially, and then 
cut them into half inch squares. Strain the broth through a napkin, pour it in a soup tureen with 
rice cooked in fat broth, and if the meats should not be added to the soup, serve them separately 
asa garnishing, by cutting them up in slices, and arranging them in a circle on adish. The chicken 
in the center, a partridge on each side, the lettuces on one side, the chick peas on -the other, the 

cabbages on the ends, and the sausages cut into slices and laid on top’ of the cabbage. A 
tomato sauce served separately, also a green sauce a l’éspagnole (No. 473). 


(350). TERRAPIN, CLEAR, THICK OR WHITE (Terrapéne au Clair, Liée ou & Blanc), 


Prepare and cook the terrapin as told in No. 1082, observing all the instructions given for 


the preparation of these turtles. 


For Clear Terrapin.—When the terrapins are cooked, select the largest ones, bone them entirely, 
and cut up the pieces found to be too large, and being more than one inch; it will require one 
pound and a half. Prepare a stock the same as for clear turtle (No. 353), thicken with arrowroot 
or else fecula, when the stock is ready and nicely seasoned, add the terrapin to it, boil it up for a 
few minutes and finish the soup with some brandy and Madeira wine. Serve separately the pulp 
of two lemons, two hard boiled, chopped up eggs, and some chopped parsley, the whole on one or 
several plates, together or each article separate. Cat 


For Thick Terrapin Sowp.—Make it exactly the same as the clear terrapin, with the mee 


tion of using the same stock as for thick green turtle soup (No. 353). 
For. Terrapin Soup, White.—Prepare it as for the above, only thickening it with velouté (No. 


415); diluting it with chicken broth (for lean use lean velouté and fish broth). Boil, skim, season 


properly, then add when ready to serve, some raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the propor 
tions being two raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of fine butter for each quart. 


(351), DRIED TURTLE, THIOK AND CLEAR (Tortue Séche Liée et Olaire), 


Dry.—This green turtle comes from South America; it is raw and dried in pieces; the only 
parts being used for dryjng are the cutaneous ones. When the dried turtle is needed put it first to 
soak in cold water for two or three days, changing the water frequently. Half-a pound of dry 
turtle suffices to make soup for eight persons; when the pieces have softened, put them into a small 
stock-pot with six quarts of water, adding to ita piece of shin of beef, weighing two pounds; a 
two pound piece of neck of veal, a three pound chicken, two or three chicken giblets, a bone of 
cooked ham, carrots, celery, a bunch of marjoram, savory, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook 
the meats the same as for a pot-a-feu (No. 342), either on the gas, or on the back of the range, and 
as soon as the pieces of turtle are done, remove them and plunge them into cold water; then cut 
them into one inch and a quarter squares, and lay them in a saucepan with alittle consommé; skim 
off the fat from the soup, strain, and set about two quarts of it into a saucepan; thicken it with 
blond roux (No. 163), despumate the soup while allowing it to boil slowly, remove all the fat, 
and season with salt and cayenne pepper, also two gills of good Madeira wine. Put the pieces of 
turtle into a souptureen, and pour the soup over. Should the turtle be needed clear, then sup- 


press the roux, clarify the broth, and thicken it with arrowroot or potato fecula. Serve slices of 
lemon at the same time. 


¥ 








PES Pee ne ee ed 





. 


SOUPS. 281 


(352,) PREPARATION OF A GREEN TURTLE WEIGHING ONE HUNDRED POUNDS (Prépara- 


tion d’une Tortue pesant cent livres), 


Lay the turtle on its back, and when it stretches out his head, seize it with one hand, and 
holding a knife in the other, cut its neck, leave it to bleed, then lay it again on its back, pass the 
knife along the flat shell, about one inch from the edge. Detach the flat shell and remove all the 
meat from the inside, doing exactly the same for the back, then saw them into six or eight pieces, 
plunge them into boiling water to remove the scales, doing the same for the four fins. Put the 
turtle meat into a soup pot with two knuckles of veal, moisten it with broth, let boil, then skim 
and add sprigs of parsley, celery, sage, marjoram, basil, thyme, bay leaf, mace, cloves, whole 
peppers and salt, cook for one hour, add the pieces of shell and fins and let boil again until all are 
cooked, then take them out and put them into cold water. Remove the gelatinous parts of the 
turtle, cut them into one and a half inch squares, strain the broth through a fine sieve and reduce 
it to ahalf glaze, add the green parts and let boil very slowly until the turtle be thoroughly cooked 
and the stock well reduced. If wanted for further use pour it into tin boxes, surround them with 
ice, and when perfectly cold cover the tops with hot fat and lay them aside in the ice box. 


(353). GREEN TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR A LA ROYAL OR THICK WITH MARROW QUENELLES 
(Soupe Tortue Verte, Claire 4 la Royale ou liée aux Quenelles & la Moelle), 


' Clear.—Put eight quarts of beef stock into a soup-pot with four pounds of leg of veal, and 
four pounds of fowl or chicken wings, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, basil, marjoram, mushroom trim- 
mings, and celery; boil all for three hours, then strain through a sieve, and afterward through a 
napkin. Clarify this stock the same as consommé with chopped beef. Cook separately the pre- 
pared turtle, and keep it warm in a steamer (bain-marie); add to the soup a dessertspoonful 
of arrowroot for each quart, diluted with a little water, and add it to the boiling broth, stirring 
it in with a whip; boil and despumate the soup for twenty minutes, then season. When ready to 
serve, drain the turtle, lay it in a soup tureen, and pour over the stock, seasoning with cayenne 
pepper and half a gill of Xérés for each quart. 

For Clear Turtle a la Royal.—Add some royale timbales (No. 241). 


Thick Turtle with Marrow Quenelles.—Proceed exactly the same as for clear turtle, but in- 
stead of thickening it with arrowroot, thicken the soup with a little brown roux, moistened with 
the turtle stock, boil and despumate, and strain through a finesieve Garnish with marrow quenelles 
(No. 252), or if preferred, use turtle fat instead of marrow. Quenelles may also be made with a 
quarter of a pound of hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with one ounce of butter and four raw egg- 
yolks, seasoning with salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley; divide this into pieces, roll them into 
balls half an inch in diameter, and poach them in boiling water; drain, and serve with the soup. 


(354), MOCK TURTLE OR CALF’S HEAD, CLEAR SOUP (Soupe Fausse Tortue ou Téte de Veau 
au Clair), 


Bone a calf’s head the same as described for plain calf’s head (No. 1519); put it into 
cold water in a saucepan on the fire, boil up the liquid and let it continue boiling for half 
an hour, then drain, refresh and singe it. Butter the bottom of a saucepan, cover it with 
slices of ham, a carrot and some onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with sage, chives, thyme 
and bay leaf. Split the bones taken from the head, lay them on this bed of vegetables and 
add two pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound and a half of chicken, or else some chicken 
thighs, either of these being partially roasted; moisten with a quart of water, and let boil 
on a moderate fire until the liquid is reduced and fallen to a glaze, and the vegetables slightly 
colored. Moisten again with six quarts or either broth or water, add the blanched calf’s head, 
boil up the liquid again, then skim and throw in one onion with a clove in it, a little mace and a 
quarter of a pound of mushroom trimmings; continue to boil slowly and when the head is cooked, 
remove it from the stock; cover it over with broth, and leave it till cold. Now cut away the white 
skin near the snout, divide the meat into equal sized half inch square pieces, taking only the 
cutaneous parts. Remove the chicken when done, season the stock, skim off the fat and strain it 
through a sieve, clarify it with two pounds of chopped beef and one whole egg, proceeding the 
same as for a consommé. Strain the liquid through a napkin or a silk sieve, and thicken it witha 
spoonful of fecula for each quart, diluting the fecula with half a gill of sherry and a little water, 
and then pouring it into the soup, stirring it vigorously until all is well mixed, then return it to 
the fire and stir again until it boils. Pound the meat from the chickens free of all fat, bones and 
skin, add to them when well pounded, four hard boiled egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg and four raw egg- 


282 THE EPICUREAN. 





yolks, rubbing all through a sieve, mix in some chopped parsley and with this preparation make 
some small half inch diameter quenelles; poach them in boiling and salted water, drain and 
put them into a saucepan with the pieces of calf’s head, moisten with the stock, boil and skim, ~ 
then add half a gill of Madeira or extra sherrry wine for each quart of soup, and the juice of 

half a lemon for each quart; pour it into a soup tureen and serve very hot. 


(355), MOCK TURTLE SOUP, THICKENED (Soupe Fausse tortue Liée), 


It needs one gallon of soup for twelve persons. Proceed exactly the same as for the clear 
mock turtle only leaving out the fecula thickening. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on 
a slow fire, and when melted, mix in with it a quarter of a pound of flour, cook it slowly to obtain 
a blond roux, which then moisten with clear turtle stock, until it becomes the consistency of a. 
light sauce, cook it slowly and keep despumating it for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve 
or tammy, and return it to the fire in a very clean saucepan, and after bringing the liquid up to a 
boil, despumate it again. Add the quenelles, the calf’s head cut in pieces, and the pulp of a 
lemon without any peel or pips, also half a gill of sherry wine for each quart of soup. 


(356), VELVET SOUP (Potage Velours), 


Mince up fine the red part of a few good carrots; stew them with butter, salt, sugar and a. 
little broth, and when done strain through a sieve and afterward through a tammy (Fig. 88). 
Put two quarts of good clear broth on to boil, mix in with it four tablespoonfuls of tapioca, let 
it despumate for twenty-five minutes on the side of the fire, skimming it off well. At the last 
moment add the carrot purée, season boil up once or twice more, and serve in a soup tureen. 


(357), WESTMORELAND SOUP (Potage a la Westmoreland), 


For sixteen persons.—Prepare two quarts of reduced and well-seasoned chicken consommé: 
(No. 190); boil it, then thicken it with arrowroot, colored with a little roucou (Annotto); dilute 
the arrowroot and roucou in cold water, and add it slowly with the soup, stirring it in continually 
with a whip or spoon; then boil and skim. 

Prepare three-quarters of a pound of cooked calf’s head the gelatinous, cutaneous parts, free of all 
fat and meat, press to three-eighths of aninch, cut this into three-eighth inch squares, and keep them: 
warm in a quart of consommé. Have half a pound of round chicken quenelles (No. 154), half an. . 
inch in diameter laid through a bag on to a buttered tin pan, and poached in boiling salted water, 
and add them to the calf’s head. Braised sweetbreads set under a weight, having half a pound in. 
all, and pressed down to three-eighths of an inch in thickness, then cut in squares when cold, and. 
put them to keep hot with the quenelles and calf’s head; have also some celery cut in quarter inch. 
squares, blanched and cooked in consommé, a quarter of a pound in all, and when done, add 
them to the other garnishings. Just when about serving, taste the soup, season it accordingly, 
and pour it over the garnishings in a soup tureen. ro 


(358), NOQUES OR QUENEFES SOUP (Potage aux Noques et aux Quenéfes), 

Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, dredge in the same weight of flour and stir this over 
a moderate fire so as to obtain a light roux (No. 163); moisten with two quarts of broth, and stir 
again until it boils slowly and on one side only; despumate the soup by removing all the scum and 
fat arising to the surface. : 

Noques.—Beat up with a spoon five ounces of partially melted butter placed in a bowl, and 
when it is creamed, then incorporate into it three egg-yolks and one whole egg; as the compound. 
becomes frothy, add to it four ounces of flour and two beaten egg-whites, season with salt and 
nutmeg, and try the preparation by taking up a teaspoonful and letting it fall, detaching it with 
another teaspoon, into boiling, salted water, and if it be too light and requires more consistency, 
then add a little more flour mixed with a little hot water, but if it be too consistent, then more 
butter is needed. Keep the noques in boiling water without letting them boil until they are wel] 
poached and firm, then drain, and range them in a soup tureen; remove the fat once more from 
the soup and thicken it with four egg-yolks and two gills of cream and a little butter; pour it over 
the noques after straining it through a fine sieve. 

Quenéfes.—Put into a bowl four yolks and two whole eggs, salt, and nutmeg; mix well, then 
add six ounces of flour, and to test whether the paste is sufficiently thick, take up some of it ina 
teaspoon, detach it with another spoon moistened with hot water, and let it drop into boiling water 


to cook for half an hour without boiling. Drain and use these quenéfes instead of noques for the 
above soup. 


ewe) Oh Et ot Oe Mg 283 


(359), RAVIOLE AND PEARL SOUP (Potage aux Ravioles et aux Perles), 


Place four quarts of good consommé into a saucepan, and after it boils skim it well. Blanch 
in boiling water for five minutes, two ounces of Nizam pearls, drain, and add them to the boiling 
consommeé; cook until they become transparent, which will take about twenty minutes, pour the 


soup into the soup tureen, adding some poached ravioles (No. 158), and serve at the same time a 
plateful of grated parmesan cheese. 


(360). WOODCOCK SOUP (Potage de Bécasses), 


Remove the four fillets from two cold roasted woodcocks; pound two of these fillets with the- 
livers and a few slices of cooked foies-gras; press through a sieve, and put this purée into a mor- 
tar, mixing in with it a third of its quantity of raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); two whole 
eggs, a pinch of nutmeg, and half a gill of cold éspagnole sauce. Poach this preparation in small 
- buttered timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137). Despumate on the side of the fire, two quarts of game- 
stock (No. 195), add to it the carcasses, necks, and heads of the woodcocks, all chopped up and a 
few aromatic herbs and twenty minutes later, skim off the fat, strain it through a tammy, and 
put it back into a clean saucepan, to heat, stirring it with a spatula continually to prevent the soup 
adhering to the bottom of the pan, finish by incorporating into it a small piece of butter, having 
previously removed the soup from the fire. Pour the soup into a tureen, adding the two breasts. 
kept aside, mincing them up in Julienne, also the poached timbales. 


SOUPS AND DIFFERENT PREPARATIONS FOR INVALIDS, 


(361), INDIAN ARROWROOT (Arrowroot de 1’Inde), 


Prepare a plain chicken broth as indicated in No. 188; for each quart of this dilute a table- 
‘spoonful of arrowroot with a little of the cold broth, so as to form a smooth and liquid paste, add 
to it gradually the boiling broth, then boil all, stirring unceasingly with a spatula. After the first 
boil, simmer it gently for half an hour, carefully stirring it at times to prevent it from sticking 
to the bottom of the pan; then serve. 


(362), BAVAROISE (Bavaroise), 


An infusion of tea sweetened with gum syrup and orange flower-water with milk. Have 
half as much boiling milk as tea; sweeten it with gum syrup, and flavor with orange flower-water; 
the latter can be replaced by a small glassful of good brandy. Bavaroise is taken at night before 
retiring. 


(363), CHICKEN BROTH PLAIN (Bouillon de Poulet Simple). 


Chop up three pounds of chicken carcasses; put them in’ a saucepan with two quarts and a 
half of water, and a little salt; boil, then skim, add a well washed lettuce head, and half an ounce 
of chervil. Let boil for an hour and a half; remove all the fat and pass through a fine sieve; serve 
in cups. This preparation should produce about a quart of liquid. 


(364), OHIOKEN AND MUTTON BROTH WITH BARLEY (Bouillon de Poulet et Mouton 4 ]’Orge). 


Break up three pounds of chicken carcasses and place them in a saucepan with a pound of lean 
mutton cut in squares and an ounce of pearl hulled barley washed in several waters, half a pound of 
minced and blanched turnips; moisten with three quarts of water, boil, skim, and reboil all gently 
for three hours; skim again, season and strain through a fine sieve; serve in cups. 


(365), CHICKEN. AND VEAL BROTH (Bouillon de Poulet et de Veau). 

Place in a saucepan a pound and a half of broken up chicken carcasses and as much lean veal 
eut up in half inch squares; add three quarts of water, two ounces of carrots and an ounce of cut 
- up turnips, both blanched in plenty of water and besides these two ounces of celery. Boil the 
whole for an hour and a half, skim off the fat, season with a little salt and strain through a fine 
sieve; serve in cups. 


284 THE EPICUREAN. 


(366), CLAM BROTH AND PUREE (Bouillon de Lucines Orangées et Purée) 


Put one pint of clams into a saucepan with their own juice and a little water; cover the sauce< 
pan and set it on the fire, removing it after the first boil, then drain, and strain the liquor through 
either a fine sieve or else a napkin; serve it in cups. The clam purée to be prepared as follows: 
Pound the clams; after they are reduced to a paste, then moisten them with their own liquor, and 
as much water. and strain through a sieve. For either plain broth or purée, a little milk and 
butter may be added. 


(867), CUSTARD CREAM OF CHICKEN OR GAME (Créme Bain-Marie de Volaille ou de Gibier), 


Cut either a three pound chicken, or two grouse, or two partridges into four parts, remove the 
lights and kidneys, wash well and cook them in two quarts of water seasoned with salt, a few 
parsley stalks, half an ounce of chervil, six ounges of turnips, and four ounces of minced celery; 
boil, skim, and let simmer until the chicken or game be cooked, then strain the broth through a 
napkin. With twelve raw egg-yolks mix one quart of this broth, adding a very little at the time, 
and strain through a sieve; fill up some small cups to an eighth of an inch from the top; place these 
cups in alow saucepan with boiling water sufficient to reach to half their heighth, then set them on 


the fire and as soon as the water is ready to boil, push the saucepan into the oven; when firm to 


the touch, remove them, and serve them either hot or cold as required. 


(368), PLAIN EXTRACT OF BEEF (Extrait de Boeuf Simple). 


Chop up very fine one pound of lean beef, put it into a saucepan and dilute it gradually with 
three pints of cold bouillon (No. 187); set it on a slow fire, and stir until it comes to a boil, then 
place it on the back of the stove where it will not boil, leave it there for half an hour, and strain it 
through a fine sieve or napkin. 


(869), EXTRACT OF BEEF, CLARIFIED (Extrait de Boeuf Clarifié), 


Remove the fat and nerves from five pounds of lean beef, either from the leg or rump, chop it 
up very fine and divide it equally into three empty and well washed champagne bottles, adding to 
each bottle, one gill of broth or water, or not any should a more concentrated extract be desired; 
cork and tie them well. Place these bottles in a high bain-marie, wrapping each bottle up in a cloth, 
and fill to five-sixths of their heighth with water; boil continually for two hours, and leave the 
bottles in the water one half hour after removing the saucepan from the fire, then uncork carefully. 
Fold two sheets of filtering paper together, lay them ina glass funnel and set these over high gallon 
glass jars, pour the liquid slowly through the paper and when all is strained, fill a well washed 
and elean champagne bottle with it; cork it up, letting the liquid reach nearly as far up as HE 
cork, and put it on ice to keep. 


(370), FISH BROTH WITH OLAMS (Bouillon de Poisson aux Lucines Orangées), 


Heat two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it two ounces of minced onions, an ounce of 
carrots, two ounces of turnips and two leeks. Fry colorless, then put in two pounds of the heads 
and bones of fish and moisten it to its height with water, adding an ounce of celery, one tomato, 
a little thyme, bay leaf, parsley and salt. Cover and cook for twenty-five minutes, then strain 
through a sieve, return it once more to the saucepan adding a quart of clams and their juice; 
boil, strain again through a fine sieve, taste and serve in cups. 


(371). FROG BROTH AND PUREE (Bouillon de Grenouilles et Purée de Grenouilles), 


Mince half a pound of celery, carrots, turnips, and leeks; fry them without letting them 
acquire a color in two ounces of butter, then moisten with two quarts of chicken broth or water, 
and add a pound of frog’s legs and hind parts, half an ounce of chervil, and two ounces of lettuce, 
both cut very fine. Boil all slowly for three quarters of an hour, season with a little salt and sugar, 
then strain through a napkin and serve in cups. 

For the Purée, pound the frog meat and add to it four ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in 
milk and then squeezed out. When all is well pounded, dilute with the same quantity of broth 


as above, and strain through a tammy; a little butter and milk may be added to advantage; this 
purée should be served in a clear state in cups. 






See ee 





: - SOUPS. 5 285 


(372), HERB BROTH (Bouillon aux Herbes), 


Four ounces of lettuce, one ounce of chervil, one and a half ounces of sorrel, all well washed, 
and cut up fine. Put these into a saucepan on the fire, with a little butter, stirring occasionally; 
when lightly cooked moisten with two quarts of white chicken broth (No. 188), or its equal volume 
of water. Let cook for fifteen minutes, adding one and a half ounces of butter and a little salt. 
Serve this in cups, either plain or with sippets of toasted bread or else with rice, semolina, ete. 


(373), CHIOKEN AND CALF’S FOOT JELLY (Gelée de Volaille et de Pieds de Vean). 


Bone six calves’ feet, blanch, and refresh them in cold water; put them in a saucepan with six 
pounds of round bottom of veal, four large fowls, after removing the breasts, two knuckles of 
veal and sixteen quarts of water. Boil, then skim, and season with salt and pepper, adding a 
_ bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and two cloves of garlic, a little celery, three 
onions, one having two cloves in it, four carrots, and eight leeks; boil constantly until perfectly 
cooked from six to eight hours, and test the jelly to see whether it be firm enough, by putting a 

little on a plate on ice; if too gelatinous, then add a little water. Strain through a fine 
sieve, and remove the fat. 
For Clarification.—Chop fine the chicken breasts, mix in with eight egg-whites, diluted with 
a little white broth, or half a bottleful of white wine; mix in the jelly gradually with the eggs, 
and put it back on the fire, stirring it constantly with a whisk, and when on the point of boiling 
~ Yemove it from the range, and strain through a fiannel bag, restraining until it flows clear. 


(374), MEAT AND CALF’S FOOT JELLY (Gelée de Viandes et de Pieds de Veaw. 

- Bone eight calves’ feet, blanch, cool, and put them into a saucepan with six pounds of round 
bottom or shoulder of veal, six pounds of legs of beef, two veal knuckles and sixteen quarts of 
water. Boil, skim and add salt, whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, garlic, 
bay leaf and celery, three onions, one with four cloves in it, some medium carrots and eight leeks. 
Boil unceasingly until the meats are well done, (from six to eight hours), then strain through a 
sieve and skim off the fat. Set a little of it on some ice to see whether it is sufficiently gelatinous, 
and if too consistent add a little veal broth, then proceed to clarify the jelly as follows: Chop up 
very fine two pounds of lean veal, mixing with it half a pint of egg-white, diluted with half a bottle 
of white wine or a little water, and mix the jelly stock gradually with this meat, put it back on the 
fire, stir continually with a whip and when ready to boil, remove and add half a boitleful of 
Madeira wine, pour the jelly into a flannel jelly bag, restraining it until it be perfectly clear. 


For calves’ foot jelly and Madeira wine (gelée de pieds de veau au madére) see No. 104. 


(375). MUTTON BROTH (Bouillon de Mouton). 


Cut into pieces four pounds of very fresh neck of mutton free of fat; put these into asaucepan. 
Prepare two ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnips, two ounces of celery, four ounces of leeks, a 
_ few sprigs of parsley, and a little thyme; fry colorless, the turnips, celery, carrots, and leeks in a 
quarter of a pound of butter; moisten with four quarts of water or stock, season well and let bor} 
slowly during one hour and a half; remove all the fat from the surface, strain it through a napkin 
and serve it in cups. Another way is to wash in cold water three pounds of very fresh neck of 
mutton, cut into pieces; put this into a saucepan with two and a half quarts of water, boil, 
skim, then add three quarters of a pound of minced turnips, a few parsley stalks, and a few thyme 
leaves, seasoning with salt. Boil slowly for two hours, remove all the fat. strain it through a 
fine sieve and serve. Some pear! barley cooked separately in water or broth may be added to 
either. If the broth needs to be clarified, then chop up half a pound of lean mutton and mix in with 
it one raw egg; dilute with a little broth or water, and put it into the mutton broth, stir it up 
quickly, and place the whole on the fire so that it barely simmers, and when clear, strain through 


a napkin. 


(376). MULLED EGG AND ALMOND MILK THICKENED WITH RICE FLOUR (Lait de Poule et 
Lait d’Amandes, Lié 4 la Farine de nz). 

Break two very fresh eggs into a bowl, dilute them gradually with two gills of boiling water, 

adding some powdered sugar and a little orange flower-water; mix thoroughly and drink very 


hot. 


286 THE EPICUREAN 


Thickened Almond Milk.—A quarter of a pound of peeled fresa almonds and four bitter ones; 
pound them in a mortar, adding gradually half a pint of water, sugar, and one pint of milk. Press 
this well through a napkin, warm it up without beiling and thicken it with half an ounce of rice- 
flour diluted with half a pint of cold water; return it to the fire and remove at the first boil. 


(877). BEEF JUICE (us de Beuf), 


In order to obtain a pint of beef juice it will take about five pounds of meat free from all fat 
and nerves; cut it into about five-eighth of an inch thick slices; broil them nicely, not too rare or 
too well done, and after taking them from the broiler, cut them up into five-eighth inch squares, 
and press them well in the press shown in Fig. 70, to extract all their juice; when it is all well 
pressed out, strain it through a fine sieve or napkin, remove all the fat from the surface and serve 
in small cups. 


(378), PUREE OF BARLEY WITH OHIOKEN BROTH (Purée d'Orge au Bouillon de Volaille), | 


Soak two ounces of pearl or other barley in cold water for twelve hours; wash it, then lay it in 
a saucepan and cover it well with four quarts of chicken bouillon (No. 188); boil and add 
more as the broth diminishes, boil until the bariey bursts; continue to cook until the broth is 
thickened by the soluble parts of the barley, it takes.about three hours to cook the barley; then 
strain forcibly and serve. A little butter and milk may be added if desired; serve in cups. 


(379), PUREE OF CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, GROUSE OR ROEBUCK (Purée de Poulet, Perdreau, 
Tétras ou Chevreuil), . 


Raise the fillets from a roast chicken or from either two partridges or two grouse, or else one 
pound of the saddle of roasted venison, pound them, add four ounces of bread-crumbs, previously 
soaked in chicken or game broth and squeezed thoroughly, pound again and dilute this purée with 
simply lightly salted chicken or game broth, free of any spices, aromatics or vegetables. Strain 
through a sieve and warm it up without boiling, adding two ounces of butter, stirring it in well; 
moisten with either chicken or game broth, letting it remain sufficiently liquid so as to be easily 
drank from cups. i 


(380). PUREE OF OATMEAL OR WHEATEN GRITS (Purée d’Avenas ou de Blé), 

Put four quarts of water or broth into a saucepan, let boil, and dredge in a shower while 
stirring one pound either of oatmeal or wheaten grits; let cook for thirty minutes, pass it through 
a tammy, and add either more water or some broth, so as to obtain a clear purée fit to'be drank 
easily from a cup, without using a spoon; a little salt and butter may be added. 


(381). SABAYON OF CHICKEN OR. GAME (Gabayon deVolaille ou de Gibier), 


Put eight egg-yolks into a high and narrow bain-marie; dilute them with one pint of chicken 


or game broth, and place the bain-marie saucepan on a slow fire or in boiling water, then stir well 
with a whip or wooden beater until the sabayon becomes thick and frothy; as soon as it is done 


serve it very hot in cups. A little sherry added to the broth is considered an improvement by 
some. 


(382), BEEF, MUTTON, OHIOKEN, OR VEAL TEA (Thé de Beuf, Mouton, Poulet ou Veau). 


Two pounds of lean meat free from nerves and skin, either beef, mutton, chicken, or veal, 
taken from the thighs or any other juicy parts. Cut the meat into small quarter of inch squares, 
set them in a saucepan and pour over three pints of cold water, with a little salt added. Boil, 
skim, and keep near boiling point for one hour, then strain through a sieve or napkin and serve in 
cups. Another way is to fill up champagne bottles with the meat, put half a gill of water in each, 
tie down the cork with a string or wire, boil for three hours, uncork and pass through a napkin. 


(383), VEAL BROTH, REFRESHING (Bouillon de Veau Rafraichissant), 


Mince up four ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnips, four leeks, and two celery roots; fry 
them in two ounces of butter, letting them attain a light color, thenadd ten pounds of split knuckle 
of veal, and moisten it all with water until well covered, then boil and skim; add salt and let boil 
continually for two hours. Chop very fine two pounds of bottom round of veal, free of fat, sinews 





, 
— 
‘ 


SOEs: 287 


and skin; to this add one whole egg diluted with a little water or cold broth, pour it gradually 
into the veal broth and clarify it by beating with a whip; return to the fire to boil slowly and con- 
tinuously for three-quarters of an hour, adding one ounce of chervil, two ounces of lettuce, and 
two ounces of wild chiccory, all well washed and cut up fine. Boil again for twenty or thirty 
minutes, then strain either through a fine sieve or napkin. 


(384), WHEAT, OATS, OR BARLEY BROTH (Bouillon de Blé, d’Avoine ou d’Orge), 


Wash half a pound of either of these in several waters, then leave to soak for twelve hours; 
parboil them in plenty of water, and afterward cook them slowly in white chicken bouillon 
(No. 188). When done and the grain crushes easily between the fingers, strain and press it well to 
extract all the insides. Half a pound of wheat should produce two quarts of liquid. To be 
served in cups. 








SA UCHS. - 





STOCKS, ESSENCES, AND AUXILIARIES, 


(385), DUXELLE, OR COOKED FINE HERBS (Duxelle ou Fines Herbes Cuites), 


Put four ounces of scraped fat pork and butter into a saucepan, and when well melted 
add to it six ounces of either chopped or one-eighth of inch pieces of shallot, a clove of crushed and 
chopped garlic, let these ingredients fry without coloring, adding half a pound of raw, finely 
chopped mushrooms; set it on the fire, and reduce while stirring continuously until the moisture 
from the mushrooms be entirely evaporated, then add an ounce of chopped parsley washed and 
pressed out; an ounce of chopped truffles may be added, but this is optional. If it needs to be 
thickened add to it half a pint of demi-glaze sauce (No. 413), and reduce until it acquires a 
consistency. 


(386), ESSENCES AND FUMET (Essences et Fumet), 


A sauce is thick, essence is not. Essence is an extract from the most nutritious parts of 
meat. Fumet, or flavor, is a steam which rises from certain cooked or raw meats, imparting a 
most agreeable smell and taste, it is the same preparation as essences, but less watery and reduced 
with Madeira. 


(387), CHICKEN ESSENCE (Essence de Volaille), 


Fry one pound of sliced kernel of veal and apound and a half of broken chicken bones in some 
butter without coloring them, adding two minced shallots, half a pound of minced carrots, and 
four ounces of onions. Moisten with one quart of white chicken bouillon (No. 188) and reduce to: 
glaze; moisten again and reduce once more, then add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay 
leaves and as much thyme, four cloves and half a bottleful of white wine; boil, skim, and cook~ 
slowly for half an hour, then strain through a napkin or silk sieve. 


(888), FISH ESSENCE (Essence de Poisson), 


Cut in slices two pounds of bass, porgies or any other bony, and very fresh fish; put them 
into a saucepan and season with salt, whole peppers and half a pint of white wine. Fry lightly im 
butter without attaining a color, three ounces of minced onions, three ounces of carrots, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with two bay leaves and the same of thyme, two cloves and two shallots; add all 
these to the fish with one quart of water, and cook slowly for forty minutes, then strain through a 
fine sieve. 


(389), GAME ESSENCE (Essence de Gibier), 


Have two pounds of young rabbit and the same quantity of raw pheasant, and put them into 
a saucepan with two chopped shallots, two ounces of mushrooms and two ounces of carrots, the 
mushrooms and carrots being either cut in quarter inch squares or minced; a bunch of parsley 
garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic and six cloves. Moisten with one quart of 
veal blond (No. 423), and half a bottle of white wine, also a quart and a half of broth; boil all 
slowly, skim and let simmer for one hour, then strain the essence through a silk sieve. 


(390), HAM ESSENCE (Essence de Jambon), 


Fry in butter and color lightly, one pound of sliced, smoked or unsmoked ham, add to it two 
ounces of minced onions, and four ounces of carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with the same 
quantity of bay leaf as thyme, and moisten with half a pint of white wine; reduce this in a COv- 
ered saucepan, moisten again with one quart of veal blond (No. 423), and let boil and simmer 
for forty minutes, then skim and strain through a napkin or fine silk sieve. 

, (289) 


290 THE EPICUREAN. 





(391), HOT ASPIO ESSENCE, CLEAR AND THICKENED (Essence d’Aspic Chaude Claire et liée), — 


Put into a saucepan, half a gill of vinegar, a few bits of tarragon, a bunch of parsley, a quarter 
of a pound of minced ham and a coffeespoonful of mignonette, a little mace; let all simmer for 
fifteen minutes, then moisten with half a pint of veal blond (No. 423), and a pint and a half of 
consommé (No. 189); reduce it all to half, strain it through a sieve and clarify with one egg- 
white; press the aspic through a napkin and use it for roast poultry. 

Thickened Aspic.—Before clarifying, add its equal quantity of espagnole, and reduce it to the — 
consistency of a sauce, despumate the surface and strain through a tammy. 


(392). MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Essence de Champignons), 


Put one pound of mushrooms previously washed and cut in four into a saucepan with the 
juice of half a lemon, salt, and a pint of broth; let boil together for ten minutes; cover the sauce- 
pan hermetically and let stand till cold; strain through a fine sieve. 


(393), ROOT ESSENCE (Essence de Racines), 


Have half a pound each of vegetables such as carrots, onions, turnips, parsnips, parsley root and 
celery; wash them well, and mince them up very fine, then fry them lightly in three ounces of 
butter and moisten with a quart and a half of water and half a bottle of white wine; let cook 
slowly for one hour, remove all the fat and scum, then strain through a napkin or silk sieve. 


(394), ESSENCE OF TAME OR WILD DUCKS (Essence de Canards Domestiques ou Sauvages), 


This is made with the fragments of six roasted duck bones, broken up and put into a 
saucepan with one pint of mirepoix stock, one quart of veal blond (No. 423), a bunch of parsley 
garnished with bay leaf and thyme, mignonette and nutmeg. Let simmer for one hour, then 
add the juice of an orange and a lemon, also their peels; strain through a napkin or a silk sieve. 


(395), TRUFFLE ESSENCE (Essence de Truffes). 


Brush and peel two pounds of fresh truffles; put them into a saucepan with half a bottle of 
‘Madeira wine and a pint of broth (No. 187), add two ounces of celery, as much carrots and as 
‘much onions, all minced up very fine, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt and ground pepper. 
‘Cover the saucepan and allow the truffles to boil slowly for twenty minutes. Then let them get 
cold in their broth, keeping the cover hermetically closed. Strain through a napkin or fine sieve. 


(396). RAW FINE HERBS (Fines Herbes Crues). 


Composed of parsley, chervil, tarragon, fennel, chives and pimpernel, picked, washed, thor- 
oughly drained and each one chopped up separately; onions and shallots cut in very small dice or 
‘else chopped are considered the same as fine herbs. (The parsley, onions and shallot may be 
blanched by tying them in a small muslin bag, and plunging into boiling water, then refreshing 
them several times, afterward extracting all the water they contain.) 


(397), FUMET OF PARTRIDGE OR OTHER GAME (Fumet de Perdreaux ou d’autres Gibiers), 


Cut four ounces of onions into slices, put them into a well buttered saucepan with four ounces 
of sliced carrots, and lay on top eight ounces of sliced ham, four ounces of mushroom parings, two 
pounds of young rabbit and two pounds of partridge, add a pint of white wine and reduce to a 
glaze; moisten with a quart of broth (No. 187), cover the saucepan, and let boil and reduce on a 
brisk fire, moderating the heat when the liquid is reduced to three-quarters, then continue reducing 
until it has fallen again to a glaze. Add four quarts of game broth (No. 195), a tablespoonful of 
allspice (whole), a bunch of parsley garnished with celery, bay leaf, and thyme, and let cook for an 
hour and a half. Strain this through a napkin, put it back on the fire to clarify with twe 
partridge breasts and one pound of lean veal, both well chopped; dilute it with half a bottle of 
white wine, stir well, and take it off the fire at the first boil; as soon as the fumet is very clear, 
strain it through a napkin. 


(398), CHICKEN OR GAME GLAZE (Glace de Volaille ou de Gibier), 


To the chicken stock, set apart to prepare a glaze, some good veal stock (No. 423) may be added, 
vperating the same for a game stock, to which put in parts of both veal and chicken; the process 
is always the same; it is especially during the shooting season that excellent game glaze can be 





SAUCES. _ 291 


_ prepared with all the smaller parts and bones of large game. Prepare an ordinary broth, obtaining 
it as clear as possible, strain, skim off the fat and let it deposit its sediment. Collect all the good 
meat from the large game, such as thighs, shoulders or breasts of hare or deer, also from old 
partridges, and the pinions and giblets from the pheasants or partridges. Make a mirepoix of 
roots, and minced onions, put with it all the above meats, also a piece of the shoulder, breast of veal; 
their white fragments, or those of chickens, and fry them for a few minutes; moisten them moder- 
ately with some broth (No. 187), and let this fall to a glaze, then moisten again abundantly with 
the prepared game broth, adding a few boned and parboiled calves’ feet; as soon as the meat 
is done, drain well; strain and skim the liquid; let it settle so as to be able to pour off the clear top ~ 
and reduce this once more. 


(899), FISH GLAZE (Glace de Poisson), 


Put into a saucepan six pounds of bass, four of soles, and two of codfish; moisten with fourteen 
quarts of water and one quart of white wine; boil, skim, and season with salt, cloves, whole all- 
spice, two cloves of garlic, half a pound of onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay 
leaves and as much thyme. Let simmer for one hour, then strain through a napkin, and redue 
to a quarter of its quantity, then set it away in a bowl to get cold; turn it out, and cut off the top, 
leaving the sediment at the bottom, then put it back on the fire, and reduce to the consistency 
of a thick syrup. 


(400), CLEAR HALF GLAZE (Demi-Glace Claire), 


This demi-glaze must not be confused with demi-glaze sauce. The demi-glaze is not a sauce 
but simply good, clarified gelatinous gravy reduced to half the consistency of a glaze; which 
means only slightly thickened; it must be bright, clear, and succulent. Before taking it from the 
fire mix in with it a spoonful of Madeira wine for each two quarts of liquid. 


(401), MEAT GLAZE, CLEAR (Glace de Viande Claire), 


Have a stockpot sufficiently large to contain four pounds of knuckle of veal, eight pounds of 
shoulder of veal, six pounds of shin or leg of beef, and add to these sixteen quarts of water and 
a very little salt; boil, skim, and garnish with a pound and a half of onions, one of them contain- 
ing four cloves, two pounds of carrots cut in quarters, a bunch of eight medium sized leeks, with a 
few branches of celery, and a bouquet made of two ounces of parsley leaves, three bay leaves and 
as much thyme; bring to a boil, skim as fast as the fat and white particles rise to the surface, and 
boil in this manner for eight hours, then strain it through a sieve, and reduce down to two quarts. 
Put this into a tin can having a tube half an inch in diameter, a quarter of its height from the 
bottom, and plugged with a tight cork; cork well and tie it firmly down, then put it on to boil in 
water for one hour, remove it from the water, and keep it in a warm place for three days to settle, 
then take out the top, then the lower cork, and receive the glaze as it falls in an earthern vessel. 
This glaze should be very clear; suppress the bottom, and use it in sauces etc., or else add it to the 
Spanish sauce stocks. 


(402). MEAT GLAZE, PLAIN (Glace de Viande Simple). 


To Prepare Meat Glaze.—In the every day work of a kitchen, the meat glaze is always prepared 
either with the superfluous stocks or remoistening broths; it is a very easy matter to accomplish 
this. Skim of the fat from all surplus stocks, and then strain them; should they be troubled, 
clarify with a little lean beef operating the sauce as for consommé. After the liquid is once 
strained, set it into one or several saucepans, pouring it off steadily from the sediment, and reduce 
the liquid quickly, while stirring it in the saucepan with a ladle, until it becomes slightly thick; 
now pour it into a smaller saucepan, and leave it to boil on one side of the fire, while skimming, 
until the glaze is quite thick, then pour it into cans and let it get cold in a cool place to use when 
needed. 


(403), ROOT GLAZE (Glace de Racines). 


Put into a saucepan two pounds of carrots cut in big squares, as many onions, one pound of 
celery roots, and three pounds of turnips; season with a little salt, four cloves, one teaspoonful of 
whole allspice, and moisten with twelve quarts of water, adding four pounds of split knuckle of 
veal, and two pounds of the kernel, also a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme and bay leaf; 
let cook slowly for four hours, then strain the whole through a fine sieve; return it to the fire, des- 
pumate well all the white and fat particles from the surface; let it continue to boil till the consist- 
ency of a thick syrup is obtained, then put it away to use when needed. 


292. THE EPICUREAN. 


(404), CLEAR GRAVY (us Olair), 


Butter the interior of a saucepan, cover the bottom with slices of onions, and lay on top some é a 


slices of unsmoked ham, add six pounds of split knuckle of veal, four pounds of beef and its bones, 
two pounds of parings of a roasted leg of mutton, with its bones broken, and four pounds of 
roasted chicken carcasses. Moisten with one quart of broth (No. 421), set it on the range, cover, 
and reduce on a moderate fire until the gravy becomes perfectly clear and falls to a glaze, 
remoisten with eight quarts of remoistening (No. 189), so that all the ingredients are covered, then 
boil, skim and season with salt, whole peppers, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as. 
much thyme, a clove of garlic and four cloves, let the whole cook for four hours, then strain 
through a fine sieve, skim off the fat and reduce to half, and then clarify it with one pound each. 
of veal and beef chopped up together. After the gravy is clear, strain it through a napkin and it 
is now ready for use. 
A gravy may be made by remoistening espagnole sauce stock (No. 421), and adding to it some: 

roast beef bones, chicken carcasses, etc. 


(405), THICK GRAVY (Jus Lié), 


Cut into square pieces, six pounds of a shoulder of veal, put them into a saucepan with half a. 
pound of melted lard to fry on a moderate fire, turning over repeatedly with a spoon; a quarter of 
an hour later put in one pound of cut up carrots and four ounces of onions; continue to fry the 
meats from twelve to fifteen minutes longer. Now moisten them with the value of one pint of — 
remoistening (No. 189), cover the saucepan and let the liquid reduce until it has fallen to a glaze 
without allowing it to burn; moisten the meats again with eight quarts of hot broth and half a. 
bottleful of white wine; skim the liquid at the first boil, then remove it to the side of the range. 
and throw in a ham bone, a partly roasted chicken weighing four pounds, also a few chicken 
giblets, add a few whole spices and a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs. When the 
meats are about three-quarters done, skim the fat from the gravy and thicken with flour dissolved 
in cold water, two tablespoonfuls for each quart of liquid; continue to boil while skimming off 
more fat, and half an hour after, pour it through a sieve into another saucepan, let it come to a. 
boil, then set it on one side of the fire to despumate for twenty-five minutes, stirring in at. 
intervals a few spoonfuls of broth. Skim, remove the fat once more, and strain the gravy into @ 
vessel leaving it to get cold, while stirring it from time to time. 


(406). MATIGNON (Matignon). 


Cut half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, half a pound of celery root and two 
ounces of parsley root into either three-sixteenth inch squares or small Julienne; fry them lightly 
without coloring in half a pound of chopped up fat pork, and add to them half a pound of ham cut 
either in squares or Julienne shape, also a quarter of a pound of mushrooms, a few branches of 
parsley (about half an ounce), two bay leaves, as much thyme and a teaspoonful of mignonette; 
moisten with a pint of white wine and a pint of veal blond ae 423); boil and reduce the moisture 
to a glaze. 


(407), ALLEMANDE SAUCE (Sauce Allemande), 


Allemande sauce is made by reducing some velouté (No. 415), incorporating a little good raw 
cream slowly into it. When the sauce is succulent and creamy thicken it with a thickening of 
several raw egg-yolks, then boil the sauce for one minute to cook the eggs, pressing against the 
bottom of the pan with a spatula, strain it through a tammy into a vessel. Stir it from time to 
time until cold. : 


(408), ALLEMANDE SAUSE WITH MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Sauce Allemande & l’Essence de Cham- 


pignons). 

After the velouté (No. 415) sauce is reduced in a flat saucepan with a fifth part of mushroom 
essence (No, 392), thicken with twelve egg-yolks, some nutmeg and two ounces of butter, incor- 
porate slowly a part of the sauce into the thickening, then pour the whole into the sauce, adding 
the juice of one lemon.- Set the saucepan on the fire, stir at the bottom with a spatula, boil the 
sauce for one minute, then strain through a tammy; pour it in a high saucepan and set itina_ 
bain-marie, and cover it with a little white stock (No. 422) to prevent the surface from drying or 
set it away in a vessel for further use. 





SAUCES. 293 


(409), BECHAMEL SAUCE (Sauce Béchamel.) 


This is made by preparing a roux of butter and flour, and letting it cook for a few minutes © 
while stirring, not allowing it to color in the slightest; remove it to a slower fire and leave it to 
continue cooking for a quarter of an hour, then dilute it gradually with half boiled milk, and half 
veal blond (No. 428). Stir the liquid on the fire until it boils, then mingle in with it a mirepoix of 
roots and onions (No. 419), fried separately in butter, some mushroom peelings and a bunch of 
parsley; set it on a slower fire and let cook for twenty-five minutes without ceasing to stir so as 
to avoid its adhering to the bottom; it must be rather more consistent than light. Strain it through 
a fine sieve then through a tammy into a vessel, and allow it to cooi off while continuing to stir; 
set it aside for further use. 


(410) CHICKEN BECHAMEL (Béchamel de Volaille). 


| Lift the breasts from two chickens, bone the rest of them and cut the meats into three-eighth 
inch squares; cut up also one pound of lean veal the same size. Put half a pound of butter into a 
‘saucepan with four ounces of onions cut into three-sixteenth inch squares; fry slowly without letting 
them attain a color, then add the chicken and veal, and when all are well fried, throw in half a 
pound of flour; stir well and let the flour cook for a few minutes, then moisten with four quarts 
of chicken bouillon (No. 188); season with salt, mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with two 
bay leaves and as much thyme, then let boil and simmer for one hour and a half, skim off the fat 
and scum carefully. Strain the béchamel through a fine sieve and then a tammy, and, to reduce it, 
add one quart of cream, and when the sauce covers the spoon, pass again through the tammy 
into a yessel; stir from time to time until it gets cold. 


(411), LEAN BEOHAMEL WITH CREAM (Béchamel Maigre & la Créme), 


Put ten ounces of butter in a saucepan with half a pound of onions cut in three-sixteenth 
‘inch squares, half a pound of carrots cut in quarter inch squares and a quarter of a pound of celery 
root cut the same; fry the whole on a slow fire, adding a quarter of a pound of flour. Let cook for 
a few minutes, then moisten with two quarts of boiled milk; stir with a spatula until boiling point; 
add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, season with salt and 
whole peppers, and let cook slowly for one hour, then skim off the fat and reduce the sauce by 
adding to it gradually one pint of cream; strain the whole into a high saucepan through a tammy 
(No. 159) and keep warm in a bain-marie, setting a few pats of fresh butter on top. 


(412), BECHAMEL WITH MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Béchamel & I'Essence de Champignons), 


Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, add to it two ounces of onions cut in three. 
“sixteenth inch squares, a quarter of a pound of lean veal cut in three-eighth inch squares, two 
ounces of carrots cut in one-quarter inch squares and two ounces of unsmoked ham cut in one- 
‘quarter inch squares, also a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, 
-and let these fry on a moderate fire; drain off the butter, and add four quarts of velouté (No. 415), 
‘seasoning with salt, pepperand grated nutmeg, then cook the whole for one hour, afterward straining 
it through a tammy, and reduce it with one quart of essence of mushrooms (No. 392). Strain it 
again through the tammy and just when ready to use, incorporate into it half a pound of fine, 
fresh butter. 


(413), HALF-GLAZE SAUCE, CLEAR AND THICKENED (Sauce demi-glace Claire et liée), 


A half-glaze sauce only differs from an espagnole by its lightness. This sauce is generally 
made in large quantities at the time, so as not to begin it so frequently, as it requires the utmost 
care in its preparation. Heat in a saucepan one pound of clarified butter, and when it is very hot 
fill it up with flour so as to obtain a paste rather too light than otherwise; thicken it well while 
stirring for a few minutes on the fire, and then set it aside in a warm part to cook and brown very 
slowly, without adhering to the bottom of the pan, and without letting it get black. Five or Six 
hours after, pour it into a vessel, cover it with paper, and let this roux stand to get cool. 


To make the Sauce : dilute the roux very slowly, with some beef stock (No. 194a), having it only 
slightly warm, and prepared for this purpose, and finish it exactly like the espagnole; it must be as 
clear as possible and of a light color; strain and skim it well. Stir the liquid over the fire to thicken 
the sauce, managing not to have any lumps in it, and should it not be perfectly smooth, then strain 
it through a fine colander Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it four ounces each of 


294 THE EPICUREAN. 


sliced carrots, onions and celery root; the same quantity of lean ham cut in quarter inch squares, 


a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaves, thyme and allspice, fry without coloring, pour the ee 


sauce over the whofe, add four gills of good white, dry wine, and a quarter of a pound of mushroom 
parings, and let all boil while stirring, then remove it at once to the side of the range, and continue 
boiling on one side only, so as to be able to despumate it properly for several hours. Strain and. 


put as much of this as is needed into a reducing saucepan with two gills of meat glaze (No. 401); 
boil, reduce it to the necessary degree, using a spatula to stir it from the bottom, without leaving  _ 


it for one instant, incorporate slowly into it a little good veal blond (No. 423) and a small quantity 


of good white wine. When the sauce is succulent without being too thick, strain it through a — 


tammy and pour it into a vessel, or else into a saucepan to keep warm in a bain-marie. 
Clear Half-Glaze T hickened.—Have a quart of well-reduced clear gravy (No. 404); put it on 


the fire to boil, add six tablespoonfuls and skim it carefully, adding two tablespoonfuls of fecula, 


arrowroot, or cornstarch, diluted in a little cold water, pouring it slowly into the stock while stir- 
ring it with a whip; boil again, skim and strain through a fine sieve; set it in a bain-marie andi 
cover the top with some Madeira wine. 


(414), BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE (Sauce Brune Espagnole), 


Espagnole or Spanish sauce is a leading sauce from which many smaller ones are made.. 
To obtain a good espagnole, it is necessary to have good stock (No. 421); in case there be no stock: 


specially prepared for this purpose, use good clear broth. For four quarts of stock, melt in a. 


saucepan one pound of butter, stir into it the same weight of very dry, good flour, so as to obtain 
a clear paste; then let it cook for four or five minutes on the fire, without ceasing to stir, and after- 
ward set it back on to a very slow fire, or in a slack oven, to let it get a good dark brown color, 
being careful to move it about often. When the roux is cooked, take it from the oven and dilute 
with the prepared stock, not having it too hot, and stir the liquid again over the fire to bring it to. 
a boil. Should the sauce not be sufficiently smooth—should any lumps appear in it, then strain it 
through a fine sieve, and put it back into the saucepan; and at the first boil, set it on one side so. 
that it only boils partially, and let it despumate in this way for two or three hours. Skim off well 
the fat, and strain the broth into a vessei to let get cold, meanwhile stirring frequently. 


(415), VELOUTE SAUCE (Sauce Veloutée), 


The velouté like the espagnole is also a leading sauce used for making secondary sauces. Melt. 
three-fourths of a pound of butter in a small saucepan; stir into it three-fourths of a pound of 
good flour, and let the roux cook for a few minutes, then set the saucepan on a slower fire with- 
out letting it color; in order to obtain a well thickened sauce, the flour must be well cooked. 
When the roux is sufficiently done dilute it gradually with four quarts of good stock (No. 423). 
In case there be no special stock prepared for this sauce then use some good clear chicken stock 
(No. 195). Stir the liquid over the fire until it comes to a boil, then move it aside to let it cook on 
one side only; despumate the sauce for one hour, skimming off all the white particles arising to the 
surface; remove all the fat, and strain the velouté through a sieve into a vessel and let it get cool 
while lifting off the scum that forms on the top. 


(416) VELOUTE AND BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE FOR LEAN (Sauce Veloutée: 


et Espagnole en Maigre). 


The lean veloute or the lean Spanish sauce are made the same way as the fat (Nos. 414 and 415), 
or using fish stock (No. 417); for lean velouté the stock must be reduced to a glaze without coloring. 


(417), FISH STOOK FOR LEAN ESPAGNOLE AND VELOUTE SAUCE (Fond de Poisson pour 
Sauce Espagnole et Sauce Veloutée en Maigre), 


Butter the bottom of a sixteen-quart thick bottomed saucepan, and cover it with a layer of 
sliced onions, and on top of these four pounds of bony fish or else fish bones cut into pieces}. 
loisten with one pint of water and set it on a brisk fire, covering the saucepan, and let it reduce 
toa glaze. Moisten again with one pint of white wine and four quarts of boiling water; skim off 
the fat and add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, as much thyme, and half a 
pound of minced carrots and four ounces of celery, two cloves of garlic, and then let cook slowly 
for two hours; strain the whole through a fine sieve and use this stock for diluting the roux. 





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Samoans: | 908 


(418), BRAISE STOOK FOR BRAISING MEATS (Fond de Braise) 


Cover the bottom of a saucepan with bardes of fat pork, one pound of minced onions, one 
pound of minced carrots, and on top place either a leg of mutton, a piece of poultry, a tenderloin 
of beef or akernel of veal. Moisten to the height of the meat with some beef stock (No. 194), adda 
bunch of parsley containing a bay leaf and as much thyme, a clove of garlic and two cloves; season 
with salt and whole peppers, and after it has cooked, strain it through a fine sieve, and return the 
stock to the braised meats to simmer until it is reduced to half. This braise may be replaced by a 
mirepoix stock for braising meats. 


(419), MIREPOIX STOCK AND DRY MIREPOIX (Fond de Mirepoix et Mirepoix Séche), 


This is the essence of meats and vegetables. Put into a saucepan half a pound of chopped fat 
pork, fry it until melted, and then add halfa pound of butter, one pound of lean veal cut in three-eighths. 
of aninch squares, and one pound of unsmoked ham, also a pound of carrots and six ounces of onions 
eut in quarter inch squares, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as much 
thyme, some basil, a clove of garlic, two cloves, and mace. Add to this a few mushroom parings, 
season with a little salt and mignonette, and when all the ingredients are well fried and of a fine 
golden color, moisten them with three quarts of remoistening (No. 189), and one pint of white 
wine, and a pint of Madeira wine; boil the whole slowly for two hours, then strain it forcibly 
through a tammy (No. 159) without removing the fat. Mirepoix is used for moistening meats, 
fishes, ete. 

Dry Mirepoix is made of minced, raw vegetables, and roots, which are fried in lard and 
moistened with some good stock and white wine, and allowed to reduce to dryness. It is employed 
to cover the breasts of fowl, game, and also meats that are to be roasted on the spit. 


(420), POELER STOCK FOR COOKING FOWL OR WHITE GAME MEAT (Fond de Poéle pour 
Cuire la Volaille et le Gibier Blanc), 


Poéler.—Consists in cooking fowls or white game meat, the breasts of which are covered with slices 
of peeled lemon, then barded and cooked in a rich stock having it reach to half their heighth. To 
make the stock cut up one pound of fat pork, and half a pound of unsmoked ham into quarter inch 
squares; one pound of carrots and as many onions, both minced, a garnished bouquet of bay leaf 
and as much thyme, fry the whole lightly in half a pound of butter, adding a bunch of basil 
garnished with two cloves, mace, and a clove of garlic; moisten all with two quarts of veal blond 

(No. 423), add salt, ground pepper. 


(421), BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE STOCK (Fond pour Sauce Brune Espagnole), 


Butter the bottom of a thick bottomed saucepan and garnish it with slices of onions, placing on 
top half a pound of ham, some slices or parings of fat pork, twelve pounds of knuckle of veal, 
shoulder, and trimmings, six pounds of beef or parings, and moisten with one quart of beef stock 
(No. 194a); leave the saucepan on the fire until the broth is half reduced, then cover the saucepan 
and moderate the fire, continue to boil till all the moisture is reduced and falls to a glaze, 
which is easily perceived as the grease then becomes clear; moisten it once more with eighteen 
quarts of beef stock; boil, skim off the fat, and add a bunch of parsley, garnished with two bay 
leayes and as much thyme, basil, celery, and two cloves of garlic, also one pound of carrots cut 
lengthwise in four, salt, ground pepper, and a little sugar. Cook all together for six hours, skim 
off the fat and strain through a sieve to keep for further use. This stock is used for moistening 


brown roux. 


(422), VELOUTE STOCK (Fond pour Velouté). 


Butter the bottom of a sixteen quart saucepan, having a thick bottom, cover it with sliced 
onions and on top of these lay four pounds of knuckle of veal and shoulder, half of each, four 
pounds of fowl without the breast, and moisten with one pint of remoistening (No. 189), put it on 
a brisk fire and cover the saucepan, as soon as the liquid is reduced to half, moderate the fire 
and let the sauce fall slowly to a glaze without browning, then moisten with six quarts more of 
white broth, skim off the fat and scum and season with salt, crushed whole peppers and a little 
sugar, add a bunch of parsley and celery green, garnished with two bay leaves and as much 
thyme, also half an ounce of basil, besides four ounces of mushroom parings or stalks and halt a 
pound of minced carrots, then let cook for six hours, remove all the fat, add from time to time 
a little remoistening (No. 189), salt it to taste and strain through a sieve or a napkin. Use 


when needed. 


296 | THE EPICUREAN. 





(423), VEAL BLOND STOCK (Fond de Blond de Veau), 


Butter the bottom of a saucepan capable of containing sixteen quarts; set in four sliced onions, 
-and on top of these four pounds of split knuckle of veal and four pounds of shoulder of veal, two : 
fowls. after removing the breasts, and moisten all with one quart of beef stock (No. 194). Place 
the saucepan on a brisk fire, keeping the lid on, and reduce the moisture by moderating the heat of ; 
the fire, and letting the liquid fall slowly to a glaze; now moisten again with six quarts more of __ 
beef stock, season with salt and whole peppers, and add four leeks, two carrots, cut in pieces, a 
bunch of parsley, some celery, one bay leaf and as much thyme. Cook all slowly for six hours, — 
then skim off the fat and strain through a fine sieve. Chop up the breasts taken from the two 
fowls with the same quantity of lean beef, and mix this in a little cold water, and with this meat __ 
clarify the veal blond the same as consommé; then strain it through a napkin. 

Veal blond should be clear, succulent and of a nice color, the grease should be thorousiies 
removed from it; added to clear soups it greatly improves them; it is also used in reducing 
sauces. 


HOT SAUCES, 


(424), AFRICAN SAUCE (Sauce a 1’Africaine), 


Put two ounces of butter into a sautoire and when hot add two ounces of chopped up’ onions — 

and fry without coloring; moisten with a pint of broth and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
add a small bunch of parsley garnished with half a bay leaf and as much thyme. Bring the 
whole to a boil, skim, remove the fat and let cook for half an hour; strain through a tammy and 
incorporate slowly into the sauce, two ounces of butter, a pinch of cayenne and the juice of a 
lemon, also a gill of Madeira wine and two ounces of exceedingly fine cut up truffles. . 
(425), ALLEMANDE WITH RED WINE AND FRUITS (Allemande au Vin Rouge et aux Fruits, = 

te 


Cook six ounces of dry black cherries or prunes, cut in four, in two gills of red wine and as 
“much water, add a bit of cinnamon stick, three cloves, and the peel from one lemon; let simmer for 
twenty minutes on a slow fire, then drain and add to the juice the same quantity of espagnole (No. 
414) as there is sauce; reduce, skim, and after the liquid is well reduced, take out the lemon 
peel, cinnamon, and cloves, then put the cherries back into the sauce and serve. Cherries and 
prunes may both be used together, half of each. } 


(426), AMERICAN SAUCE (Sauce Américaine), | . 


Split open the bodies of two cooked lobsters, take out all the creamy parts, rub them through 
a sieve, and keep them aside for further use. Wipe well the shells, break them into pieces and chop 
them up coarsely on the table with the thick end of a knife. Fry in some oil, carrots, celery, pars- 
Jey, shallots, and minced onions, add to these the chopped shells and let cook all together until 
their moisture is reduced, then moisten slightly above their height with white wine and mirepoix 
(No, 419); let this liquid boil up for two minutes, then move it on a more moderate fire, and add 
some thyme, bay leaf, and basil. Let the whole cook from twenty to twenty-five minutes, then © 
strain it forcibly through a sieve into a bowl, and leave it to settle for a quarter of an hour, 
afterward removing all the fat, pour off the top gently into a sautoire, pressing it through a fine 
sieve, and let it reduce to a half-glaze. Mix in with it about a third of its quantity of tomato 
sauce, reduce it once more without ceasing to stir until it becomes short and succulent, by mixing 
in three or four spoonfuls of sherry wine. Strain it now into another saucepan, work in the 
butter, and finish with a dash of cayenne pepper, and two spoonfuls of the creamy part from the 
bodies already strained. This sauce should be served as quickly as it is made; in any way it must 
b e kept stirred until the very last moment. 


(427), ANCHOVY SAUCES (Sauce aux Anchois), 
Race Fat Sauce.—Set into a saucepan half a pint of brown poivrade sauce (No. 522); the 
e quantity of espagnole (No. 414), and half a pint of veal blond (No. 423). Allow the liquid 
fo boil up while stirring continuously, then despumate; just when ready to serve incorporate in two 
ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569). 








SAUCES. 297 


For Lean Anchovy Sauce.—Clean twelve anchovies, by removing their skin and tails; wash and 
pound in a mortar; to this pulp add double their quantity of butter, rub through a fine sieve, and 
incorporate two ounces of this butter into one quart of white sauce (No. 562); season, and adda 
little lemon juice and nutmeg, then strain the whole through a tammy. The anchovy butter can 
be replaced by essence of anchovies, already prepared in bottles; in this case incorporate in just 
when prepared to serve, two ounces of fresh butter. 


(428), APPLE SAUOES (Sauce aux Pommes), 


Hot with Butter and Gravy.—Peel a pound of sour apples, cut them in quarter inch thick 
slices, and remove the cores. Puta quarter of a pound of butter into a sautéing pan and when 
hot, throw in the apples and let them fry on both sides until they are a fine color, then moisten 
with four gills of veal blond (No. 423), and two ounces of brown sugar (or cayenne pepper) if 
preferred, and a little grated nutmeg, press the apples through a sieve and serve hot. 


For Hot or Cold.—Peel and core one pound of sour apples, put them into a saucepan with a 
pint of water and when done, drain and pass them through a sieve; now add sugar, nutmeg, and 
an ounce of butter and serve the sauce hot; for the cold suppress the butter. 


(429), ARGENTINE SAUCE (Sauce Argentine), 


Put into a sautoir, four tablespoonfuls of oil; set it on the fire and when hot, add two ounces 
of chopped onions, and a finely shreded green pepper, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, a bunch 
of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and as much thyme; fry the whole without attaining color; 
then drain off the oil and moisten with one gill of white wine, and two gills of tomato purée 
(No. 730); season, and add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and three tablespoonfuls of meat 
glaze; boil the whole, skim carefully, and reduce to a proper consistency; pass through a tammy 
and serve. 


(430), AURORA SAUCE, FAT AND LEAN (Sauce & l'Aurore, en Gras et en Maigre), 


For Fat.—Put into a saucepan half a pint of velouté (No. 415), with essence of mushrooms 
(No. 392), and half a pint of veal blond (No. 423); reduce to half, strain through a tammy, heat 
it up once more and when ready to serve incorporate two ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) into 
the sauce. 


For Lean.—Have in a saucepan one quart of béchamel sauce (No. 409); pound four hard 
boiled egg-yolks with four ounces of lobster butter (No. 580); press through a fine sieve, mix the 
two together adding the juice of a lemon, strain through a tammy and serve hot. 


(431), BARNAVE SAUCE (Sauce 4 la Barnave), 


Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan and when hot add a quarter of a pound of red 
carrots blanched and the same quantity of onions, both cut into three-sixteenth inch pieces. First fry 
the onions, then add the carrots and fry together a little, add a garnished bunch of parsley with 
thyme, a clove of garlic, a pound of game carcasses and when a good color add half a bottle of red 
wine and a pint of broth. Let all cook for three-quarters of an hour, skim it carefully, strain the 
sauce through a tammy or sieve, dilute it again with another pint of broth and throw in an ounce 
of yery fresh bread raspings, an ounce of butter and the juice of one orange. 


(432), BAVAROISE SAUCE (Sauce Bavaroise), 


Reduce to half its volume one gill of vinegar; take it from the fire and let get cold, then 
add one gill of béchamel (No. 409), four raw egg-yolks and four ounces of butter divided into 
small pats, a gill of water, salt and nutmeg. Stir the preparation over a moderate fire until it 
thickens, then incorporate into it three ounces of butter, a small bit at a time, working it in well 
with a whip so as to have it light, add to finish, three ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) and 
a tablespoonful of grated horseradish. 


(433), BEARNAISE SAUCE, HOT MAYONNAISE, AND WITH TOMATOES (Sauces Béarnaise, 
Mayonnaise Chaude et aux Tomates), 


Put into a saucepan one gill of vinegar with two ounces of chopped shallots, also a few tarragon 
leaves; coyer the saucepan with its lid, and reduce the liquid almost completely, then take it from 
off the fire. Let the vinegar get slightly cold, and afterward mix in with it four raw egg-yolks, 


298 THR EPICUREAN. 


season with salt and mignonette, and return it to a slow fire, and then incorporate into it slowly 
three ounces of clarified butter, stirring it continually in the meanwhile with a small whip; now 
strain it through a tammy; whip it well, and mix in with it a coffeespoonful of chopped tarragon, 
and the same quantity of chopped parsley. This sauce should have the consistency of a mayon- 
naise, and can also be made the same as the above, with half butter and half oil. 

Hot Mayonnaise.—Is made the same as a béarnaise, only using oil and suppressing the 
tarragon. 

Hot Mayonnaise with Tomatoes.—Pour one quart of hot mayonnaise in a deep saucepan, set it 
either on a slow fire or in a bain-marie, and when it begins to curdle, take it off and beat it up 
quickly, adding a little cold water; continue the beating process until perfectly smooth, then heat it 
again stirring vigorously without allowing it to boil, and finish by adding eight tablespoonfuls of 
well reduced tomato purée (No. 730), four tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze (No. 401), and some 
lemon juice. Strain through a fine sieve, then mix in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a little 
cold water. 


(434), BERCHOUX SAUCE (Sauce a la Berchoux), 


Put into a sautoire one pint of milk and let boil, then add two ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; 
season with salt, nutmeg, and red pepper and moisten with the quarter of a bottleful of champagne. 
Now pound a pinch of tarragon with two pinches of chervil, and a quarter of a clove of garlic; when 
it becomes a pulp add four ounces of fresh butter and a little spinach green to color. Incor- 
porate this butter into the sauce, strain through a fine tammy; if the sauce should be too 
thick add a little cream. 


(435), BIGARADE SAUCE (Qauce a la Bigarade), 


A bigarade orange is a sour orange before it changes to an orange color; peel it without touch- 
ing the white parts, using a peeling knife (Fig. 156), cut the peel up into small fine Julienne, plunge 
it into boiling water, and cook it until it is tender; drain and enclose it in a covered saucepan with 
four gills of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415) if needed fora white sauce. Just when 
ready to serve, finish the sauce with a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze, the orange juice and the 


juice of a lemon; strained through a tammy, adding two ounces of fine butter. The bigarade 


can be replaced by an orange and a lemon, using the peel and juice of both fruits. 


(436). BORDELAISE SAUCE, WITH MARROW AND MAITRE D'HOTEL WITH MARROW 
(Sauce Bordelaise, & la Moelle et Maitre d’Hotel & la Moelle), 


Bordelaise Sauce.—Put into a saucepan half a bottleful of Bordeaux wine, adding a small 
garnished bouquet containing a little garlic, half a bay leaf, and two cloves; a quarter of a 
pound of the peelings and stalks of some chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of blanched 
shallots lightly fried in three spoonfuls of oil, one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), half a pint of 
veal blond (No. 423), and season with salt, mignonette and cayenne, boil, skim off the fat and then 
pour in half a bottleful of white wine, and when the sauce is reduced, strain it through a tammy 
and stir in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; a pound of beef marrow cut in either squares or 
slices may be added to the bordelaise just when ready to serve. A simpler way is to brown some 
minced shallots in oil with a clove of crushed garlic, adding red wine and gravy, then reduce it to 
half, pour in the espagnole, boil, skim off the fat and serve. 

Bordelaise Sauce with Marrow.—Fry minced shallots in oil with a clove of garlic (crushed); 
moisten with red wine and reduced gravy, add some espagnole; boil and despumate, then put in 


squares of beef marrow or else have them cut in slices and plunged into boiling water oe) drained; 
add only when ready to serve. 


Maitre CH dtel with Marrow.—Have some maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581), slightly melted, 
into which add four ounces of shallots for each pound of butter, the shallots being cut into one- 


eighth inch squares, eight tablespoonfuls of meat glaze or chicken glaze, and add just when ready 
to serve, slices of marrow previously thrown into boiling water and drained. 


(437), BOURGUIGNOTTE SAUCE—LEAN (Sauce & la Bourguignotte—Maigre), 


Cut a pound of eels into slices being careful that they are very fresh; put these into a saucepan 
with two quarts of water, two ounces of minced onions and two ounces of mushroom parings, a 
bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and as much thyme, two minced shallots, pepper and all- 





a 4” 
cr, 


‘ 





SAUCES. 299 


spice. Set the saucepan on the fire, let it come to a boil, and continue the boiling for twenty 
minutes, then strain the liquid and reduce it, adding one pint of lean espagnole sauce (No. 416), 
and a little lean broth (No. 417); let boil once again, despumate it, pour in a quarter of a bottleful 
of good white wine; boil and despumate again for half an hour, then add another quarter of a bottle 
of white wine, making half a bottleful in all; Volnay wine is excellent for this sauce. After it is 
reduced to a proper consistency, and just when ready to serve, incorporate into ita quarter of a 
pound of crawfish butter (No. 573). 


(438), BREAD SAUOES, AMERICAN, ENGLISH, FRENCH, REGLAIN AND GERMAN FRIED 
(Sauces au Pain, Américaine, Anglaise, Francaise, Reglain et Frite & l'Allemande), 


American.—Put into a saucepan one ounce of butter with one ounce of finely chopped 
onions, fry them lightly without coloring and moisten with a pint of boiling milk, add two ounces 
of bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne pepper and cloves, and just when ready to serve, add a little cream 
to finish. This sauce should be consistent and hot without boiling. 

Finglish is made exactly the same, only replacing the fried onions by a raw onion cut in 
four, and whole peppers instead of the cayenne. 

French.—Chop up a shallot and a quarter of a clove of garlic, putting them in a 
saucepan with two gills of white wine; let simmer and reduce, adding two tablespoonfuls of very 
fine bread-crumbs, a little fresh butter, a dash of mignonette and grated nutmeg and two gills of 
broth, let reduce to half, then squeeze in some lemon juice and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

A la Reglain.—Set four gills of milk into a saucepan, adding two ounces of bread-crumbs 
and one shallot cut in small eighth inch squares, a whole clove of garlic, and let heat without boil- 
ing for a few minutes, seasoning with salt, a little cayenne and nutmeg, two ounces of butter, a 
teaspoonful of raw fine herbs, one gill of white wine and the juice of an orange. 

Fried German.—Melt and heat gradually half a pound of butter so as to obtain a hazel-nut 
butter, incorporate into it three ounces of white bread-crumbs, cook it over a slow fire for a few 
minutes without ceasing to stir, salt it lightly and take off the fire to pour into a hot sauce boat. 


(439), BRETONNE SAUCE (Sauce a la Bretonne). 

Mince up four ounces of onions, fry them in two ounces of clarified butter, and when fried 
without attaining a color, drain them and moisten with one gill of veal blond (No. 423); reduce 
and let fall to a glaze. Add one gill of velouté (No. 415) if for white, and espagnole (No. 414) if 
for brown; season with salt and pepper, and meat glaze; strain it forcibly through a sieve, and 
incorporate into the sauce just when ready to serve, half an ounce of fresh butter. For a lean 
sauce, moisten with some fish stock (No. 417), and lean velouté or espagnole (No. 416) and fish 
glaze (No. 399). 


(440), BUTTER SAUCE (Sauce au Beurre). 

Put into a saucepan, two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, dilute it with half a pint of cold water, 
add some salt and whole peppers, one clove, grated nutmeg, and half an ounce of butter. Set it 
on the fire, and stir well until it boils; then allow it to cook slowly for fifteen minutes; remove it 
from the fire, and incorporate into it by degrees, one pound of fresh butter, and the juice of two 
lemons. If the sauce should become too thick, add a little more water, then strain it through a 
tammy. With this sauce a quantity of other sauces may be made such as caper, egg, oyster, horse- 
radish, etc. 

(441), OAPER SAUCE (Sauce aux Capres). 

Set into a saucepan two ounces of butter, mix it with one and a half ounces of flour; beat the 
flour and butter well together with a spoon, so as to obtain a smooth paste; now moisten 1t with 
two gills of water, add a pinch of salt, stir the liquid on the fire until the sauce becomes thick. 
At the first boil, remove it to the side of the range. It should be somewhat more consistent than 
thin. Incorporate into it gradually, two ounces of butter divided into small pats, the sauce should 
now be creamy; remove it and finish by adding some small nonpareil capers, and the jules of a 
lemon; then serve. 


(449), GARDINAL SAUCE, FAT AND LEAN (Sauce Cardinal en Gras et en Maig’e), 

For Fat.—Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415). with two gills of mushroom essence (No. 392), 
or else veal blond (No. 423), season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; add a tablespoonful of meat, 
chicken, or game glaze (No. 401), two ounces of fresh butter, and the juice of one lemon. Serve 
in a sauce-boat, and dredge over the top chopped-up lobster coral. 


300 THE EPICUREAN. 


For Lean.—Soak six carp milts in cold water, cook them for ten minutes in white broth (No. } 
195) with the juice of one lemon, salt, and half an ounce of fine butter, then drain; put intoa 


saucepan six tablespoonfuls of thick béchamel (No. 409), add to it a gill of cream; boil, season 
with salt and cayenne pepper, and beat in one ounce of fresh butter, strain through a tammy, add 
the milts, and heat them up rolling them in the sauce. Serve in a sauce-boat, dredging the top 
with some very finely chopped lobster coral. 


(443), CASTILLANE SAUCE (Sauce 4 la Castillane), 


Pour into a saucepan six gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and two gills of veal blond (No. 
423), reduce it to a third, then add a tablespoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers, a very 
finely shreded green pepper, and a quarter of a pound of raw lean ham cut into small three- 
sixteenth inch squares, boil all slowly, despumate the sauce, and just when ready to serve squeeze 
in the juice of a lemon. 


(444), CELERY SAUCE (Sauce au Céleri), 
Have half a pound of white celery stalks cut in quarter inch pieces, put them in boiling and 
salted water for five minutes, drain and place them in a saucepan with a pint of white stock (No. 
422), then reduce it to half, adding a pint of well-reduced velouté (No. 415), and just when ready 
to serve, incorporate into it two ounces of fine butter and half a gill of fresh Boe seasoning 
with salt, nutmeg and red pepper. 


(445), CHAMPAGNE SAUCE, ALSO WITH CHABLIS, RHINE WINE, SAUTERNE OR GRAVE- 
WINE (Sauce au Champagne, Chablis, Vin du Rhin, Sauterne ou Grave). 


The sauces may be made white or brown for a base; for white, using velouté (No. 415), for 
_ the brown, having a brown espagnole (No. 414). Reduce one quart of espagnole with half a pint of 
mushroom essence (No. 392), or the liquor in which they have been cooked, also a pint of mirepoix 


stock (No. 419), add a pint of champagne or any other wine and reduce once more until the 
sauce be sufficiently consistent. If made with velouté thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and small — 


pats of butter. 


(446), CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE (Sauce Chateaubriand), 

Put into a saucepan one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), with two tablespoonfuls of meat 
glaze (No. 401), one pint of veal blond (No. 423), and reduce it all to half, then strain through a 
tammy, and just when ready to serve, stir in half a pound of fine butter, the strained juice of a 
lemon and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. To make it with tarragon put into a saucepan two 
gills of dry white wine with some chopped shallots and mushroom peelings, and reduce it all to 
half. Mix in with it six tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401), and finish with three gills of 
reduced velouté (No. 415), let it boil for two minutes, then strain; at the last moment mingle in 
with it three ounces of butter in small pats, working it in well with a small tinned wire whisk; add 
the strained juice of a lemon and a few finely shreded tarragon leaves. 


(447), OHERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Cerises), 

Lay in a saucepan, half a pound of currant jelly with six cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, 
two orange peels, one ounce of meat glaze. (No. 401), half a pint of veal blond (No. 423), one pint 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414), one gill of Burgundy, and four ounces of dried and pounded cherries, 
let all boil together for a few minutes, then add the strained juice of two oranges, mix all together 
well, and serve. 

Another way is to have a quarter of a pound of dried black cherries with their pits; soften 
them in cold water, and pound them in a mortar with three gills of red wine; pour the prepara- 
tion into an untinned copper vessel, add a small stick of cinnamon, and two cloves, also a piece 
of lemon peel; let the liquid boil for two minutes, then thicken it with a teaspoonful of fecula 
diluted with a little cold water; remove it to the side of the fire, cover, and keep it warm without 
boiling for fifteen minutes, then strain through a sieve and serve. 


(448), CHERVIL OR PARSLEY PLUCHE SAUCE (Sauce & la Pluche de Cerfeuil ou de Persil), 


A pluche is the leaves of either parsley or chervil blanched and combined with a sauce or soup. 
Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) with two gills of white wine; season with salt. pepper, 
nutmeg and the juice of a lemon, and just when serving incorporate into it four ounces of fresh 
butter. Should the sauce be too thick add a little broth (No. 187), and then put in a heavy 
pinch of blanched chervil or parsley leaves. 











SAUCIS! <1 it 301 


(449), CHIVRY SAUCE (Sauce a la Chivry). 


Blanch in a red copper untinned vessel a handful of herbs composed of parsley leaves a third; 
ehervil a third; pimpernel a sixth, and tarragon a sixth; drain them and extract well all their 
moisture, then put them into a mortar with a pinch of chives, pound them finely, adding a piece 
of butter, and after removing the preparation from the mortar rub it through a sieve, and add to. 
it three gills of reduced velouté (No. 415) and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Color the sauce with 
a little spinach green or green vegetal coloring. . 


(450), CLERMONT SAUCE (Sauce & la Clermont), 


Cut six medium onions in two; then remove the stalk and root from both ends giving a sharp. 
slanting blow with the knife, so when they are removed the onions easily fall apart; then mince. 
them up finely. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when it is hot, add the 
onions, and fry them slowly so that they become a nice golden color, then drain off the butter, 
and finish cooking with a quart of remoistening (No. 189); season with salt, pepper, and sugar, 
and when the onions are well done, and the stock reduced to half, add to it a pint of espagnole 
sauce (No. 414) with two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401); season nicely and serve. 


(451), COLBERT, ENGLISH AND TARRAGON SAUCES (Sauce & la Colbert, a l’Anglaise et a 
l'Estragon), 

Colbert.—Boil up one gill of meat glaze (No. 401) in a saucepan, remove it from the fire, and 
then incorporate into it four ounces of fresh butter, working them well together with an egg-whisk, 
until the butter is thoroughly melted; then add the juice of two lemons, some grated nutmeg, 
and two tablespoonfuls of good sherry wine; strain through a tammy, add a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley, and serve. 


English.—Put a saucepan on the fire, containing two tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire 
sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, the same quantity of melted meat glaze (No. 401); take 
it off when it bubbles, then work slowly into it two ounces of anchovy butter, the juice of one- 
lemon, and a little grated nutmeg; strain through a tammy and serve. 

With Tarragon or Chervil.—Pour a gill of melted meat glaze (No. 401) into a saucepan; at the 
first boil take it off the fire, and whip in with it a quarter of a pound of butter divided into small 
pats; finish the sauce with the juice of two lemons, and half a spoonful of tarragon leaves, or else 
a spoonful of chervil leaves, one or the other finely cut up. 


(452), ORAB SAUCE (Sauce aux Crabes). 


Have a pint of white sauce (No. 562), in a saucepan, add to it a pinch of cayenne pepper and 
the same quantity of ground mace, also two ounces of crab meat cut in dice, or if possible some- 
oyster crabs blanched in their own oyster juice, and drained. 


(453), CRAWFISH SAUCE (Sauce aux Ecrevisses). 


Fry in two ounces of butter, one ounce of carrots, one ounce of celery root, one ounce of onions, 
and one ounce of shallot, a few parsley leaves, thyme, one bay leaf, and one clove of garlic. 
Moisten with half a bottleful of white wine, and let the whole cook for ten minutes, adding to it 
twenty-four well washed crawfish, a little salt and mignonette. Cook all together for five minutes, 
while tossing them up frequently, then take out the crawfish and let the stock settle; pour off 
gently the top, straining it through a very finesieve; then reduce it to half and add a pint of velouté. 
sauce (No. 415) and half a pint of white wine, and reduce it once more. Shell the crawfish, take 
the meat from the tails and lay them on one side; pound the remainder with five ounces of butter, 
heat it, and then pass it through a sieve into a bowl filled with ice water; lift up the butter, wipe 
it, and incorporate this butter into the sauce; color it with orchanet or else vegetable carmine, and 
strain it through a sieve. Add the crawfish meat cut in small dice to the sauce, and serve at once. 


(454), CREAM SAUCE (Sauce & la Créme), 


Put into a small saucepan, one pint of béchamel (No. 409), reduce it with two gills of cream; 
when ready, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; season with salt and a dash 


of cayenne pepper. 


302 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(455), CURRANT SAUCE, WITH RED WINE, PORT WINE, CALIFORNIA WINE, WHITE WINE 
AND WHITE CURRANTS (Sauce Groseilles au vin de Bordeaux, au vin de Porto, au vin 
de Californie, au vin Blanc et aux Groseilles Blanches), 


Plain currant jelly without being heated may be served with canvasback duck and saddle of 
venison. But if some people prefer sauce, the following will be found good: 


Currant Sauce with Red Bordeaux Wine.—Put half a bottle of Bordeaux wine into a saucepan 
on the fire, and when the wine begins to simmer take it off, and put into it, to infuse, ten cloves, the 
peel of a lemon and a bit of cinnamon; leave them in for twenty minutes, and then add to it half a 
pound of currant jelly and two ounces of sugar, more or less, according to taste; dissolve and mix 
well, and when thoroughly melted, strain the sauce through a sieve and serve it hot. 


Currant Sauce with Port Wine.—Put half a pound of currant jelly in a saucepan on the fire, 
dilute it with half a bottleful of port wine and one pint of brown espagnole sauce (No. 414), and 
when well dissolved strain through a sieve and serve hot. 

Currant Sauce with California Wine.—Melt half a pound of currant jelly with half a pint 
of red California wine, and when well dissolved strain it through a tammy and serve hot. — 


Currant Sauce with White Wine.—Made with half a pound of currant jelly, a pinch of 
cinnamon, the same of ground cloves, half a bottle of white wine, and a pint of velouté (No. 
415), besides the pulp of one lemon; strain through a sieve and serve hot. 


White Currant Sauce.—Blanch and strain a pint of picked white currants, mix in with them 
half a pound of apple with orange jelly, the juice of two lemons and half a pint of velouté (No. 
415). Dissolve with half a pint of white wine; strain through a tammy and serve hot. 


(456), CURRY SAUCES, INDIAN AND WITH APPLES (Sauces au Kari, 4 l’Indienne et aux 


Pommes), 


Curry.—Brown in some butter four ounces of minced onions, adding to it one teaspoonful of 
curry; two minutes later moisten with two gills of velouté (No. 415), two ounces of mushroom 
peelings, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf. Reduce the sauce, and pour into it 
slowly about two gills of chicken broth (No. 188), and at the very last moment two spoonfuls or 
good raw cream. Pass the sauce through a tammy, and incorporate into it a piece of fresh butter, 
then heat it up without boiling. 


Curry, Indian.—Put into a saucepan four ounces of ham, two ounces of onions, two ounces 
of mushrooms, all minced up very fine, a bunch of parsley garnished with as much bayleaf as thyme, 
one onion with three cloves in it, one teaspoonful of ground sweet Spanish pepper, a dash of 
cayenne pepper, a dessertspoonful of curry, a pinch of mace and one quart of chicken broth 
(No. 188). Let simmer and reduce to half;add one quart of allemande sauce (No. 407), and a 
pinch of saffron, pass it through a tammy and just when ready to serve incorporate into it two 
ounces of fresh butter. 


Curry with Apples.—Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, adding to it four ounces of 
apples, four ounces of onions, two ounces of ham, all finely shreded, a pinch of mace, a teaspoonful 
of pepper-corns, a bay leaf and as much thyme. Set the saucepan on a moderate fire, and let all 
fry till the onions begin. to brown, being careful to stir it constantly, and add a tablespoonful of 
curry, the same of vinegar, a teaspoonful of sugar, one quart of velouté (No. 415), two gills of veal 
blond (No. 423) and one teaspoonful of meat glaze (No. 401). Pass all through a tammy and 
add two gills of cream. 


(457) DANISH SAUCE (Sauce & la Danoise), 


Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, with four ounces of thinly sliced ham, and when 
lightly fried and a fine color, drain off the butter; detach the glaze with a gill of broth, add a 
clove of garlic, a bay leaf, as much thyme and a pint of espagnole (No. 414); cook slowly, despu- 
mate, season well, and pass the sauce through either a sieve or a tammy. Cut four ounces of 
chicken fillets, eight of mushrooms, and four of ham, into three-sixteenth inch squares; put them 
into the sauce with a small teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 


(458), DANTIN SAUCE (Sauce 4 la d’Antin), 
Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, add two ounces of onions cut in one-eighth inch 
squares, and fry them without letting them attain color; moisten with one pint of espagnole (No. 
414), one gill of Madeira, and one gill of tomato purée (No. 730); add half an ounce of chopped 





f 
E 


— ee 





SAUCES. | 303 


truffles, two ounces of mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares, a teaspoonful of chopped 


parsley, and a small pinch of tarragon leaves; and also one coffeespoonful of chopped 
chives. 


(459). DEVILED SAUCE (Sauce & la Diable), 


Lay in a saucepan three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two ounces of one-eighth inch squares of 
shallot, a few parsley leaves, one bay leaf, as much thyme, and a clove of garlic crushed and 
chopped; let the whole boil for a few minutes, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414), a pinch of 
mignonette, a very little veayenne pepper, a gill of red wine, and two tablespoonfuls of diluted 
mustard, also two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. 


(460). DIANA SAUCE (Sauce & la Diane). 


Into a saucepan put a quarter of a pound of butter; when hot add to it one medium onion, two 
shallots, one ounce of celery, all cut up very finely, and a bay leaf; and when these ingredients are 
well fried, add to them one pound of raw game carcass, and let the whole color nicely, adding three 
tablespoonfuls of flour, to make a roux, brown it slightly and then moisten with one pint of velouté 
stock (No. 422) and a pint of cream. Let the sauce cook and despumate for half an hour, seasoning 
it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; then strain it through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy, 
return it to the saucepan, and reduce it properly, incorporating into it two ounces of butter. 


(461), DUXELLE SAUCE WITH COOKED FINE HERBS AND TRUFFLES (Sauce & la Duxelle 


aux Fines Herbes Cuites et aux Truffes), 


Set into a saucepan two ounces of grated salt pork, and twoounces of butter, six shallots cut 
in squares; one clove of crushed and chopped garlic; when all these are fried without coloring add 
one quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms, a bay leaf, as much thyme and two cloves. Mois- 
ten the whole with half a pint of white wine, and the same quantity of broth, one pint of espag- 
nole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415), if for white and let cook for fifteen minutes. Add one 
tablespoonful of chopped truffles and a half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; take out the bayleaf, 
thyme and cloves. , : 


(462). EGG SAUCE, ENGLISH AND POLISH (Sauce aux ceufs, 4 l’Anglaise et & la Polonaise), 

For English Egg Sauce.—-Put a pint of velouté (No. 415) in a saucepan with some pepper, 
nutmeg, the juice of a lemon, and four hard boiled eggs chopped up over a white cloth, and then 
added to the sauce with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Should the sauce be too thick dilute 
it with some mushroom broth and white broth. 

For Polish Egg Sauce.—Have six small hard boiled eggs; chop up the whites and yolks separ- 
ately; put into a sufficiently large frying pan half a pound of clarified butter, let it heat until it 
becomes hazel-nut butter, then season with salt, a tablespoonful or chopped parsley, a tablespoon- 
ful of diluted mustard and the chopped eggs; mix all without boiling and pour into a sauce-boat 
to be served separately. 


(463), FENNEL SAUCE ‘Sauce au Fenouil), 
Put one pint of velouté (No. 415) and a spoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) into a saucepan, and 
let them come to a boil, then thicken with one egg-yolk and some fresh butter, adding the juice of 
one lemon, and a tablespoonful of very finely chopped fennel. 


(464), FINANCIERE SAUCE FOR FAT AND FOR LEAN AND WITH GAME AND CHICKEN 
(Sauce & la Financiére en gras et en Maigre et au Gibier et & la Volaille), 


Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add four ounces of cooked lean ham cut in three- 
sixteenth inch squares, fry without coloring and then throw in four ounces of mushrooms or their 
parings, two bay leaves, as much thyme, one ounce of truffle parings and two gills of dry Madeira 
or sherry, let simmer and reduce over a slow fire. Moisten with one pint of veal blond (No. 423), 
and one pint of espagnole (No. 414), then let boil and despumate, adding a gill more Madeira, 
and when the suce is done, strain it through a tammy. 

For Lean.—Replace the ham by smoked salmon or sturgeon, the sherry by sauterne, the veal 
blond by fish stock (No. 417), and use lean espagnole, and then finish the same as for the fat. 


304 THE EPICUREAN. a 


For Financiere Sauce with Game or Chicken.—Infuse in a quarter of a bottleful of warm 
white wine or champagne, two ounces of mushrooms and one of truffles. Place two ounces of 
butter in a saucepan with two ounces of finely minced raw ham, and when it is fried, drain off the 
butter and moisten with one pint either of chicken or game stock (No. 195), one pint of espagnole 
(No. 414), and the infused mushrooms and truffles; season with a dash of cayenne pepper, and 
let boil, skim and reduce it to a proper degree. Strain the sauce and keep it warm in a bain marie. 


(465), FINNOISE SAUCE (Sauce a la Finnoise), 


Put two gills of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan with six tablespoonfuls of melted meat 
glaze (No. 401), a pinch of paprika and a pinch of sweet Spanish pepper and salt; mix all well 
together, let boil, and incorporate slowly into it six ounces of butter, working it in with a wire whisk, 
and then add a coffeespoonful of chopped up parsley just when prepared to serve. 


(466), FLAVIGNAN SAUCE (Sauce & la Flavignan), 


Pound half a pound of very fat chicken livers, two ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley and a pinch of finely cut tarragon; have three gills of port wine ina saucepan with ~ 
one pint of espagnole (No. 414), add to it salt, pepper, coriander seeds, cinnamon and sugar, boil it 
for a few minutes, and then mix in the pounded livers, stirring them in well: boil again for a few 
minutes longer and strain through a tammy; finish with two ounces of butter before serving. 


(467). FRENCH SAUCE (Sauce @ la Frangaise), 


Reduce one pint of béchamel (No. 409), with two gills of mushroom essence (No. 392) in a 
saucepan, season with mignonette and nutmeg and half a small clove of crushed and chopped 
garlic, as well as a tablespoonful of meat glaze. Just when ready to serve incorporate into the 
sauce four ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573), strain through a tammy, then add a teaspoonful 
of vinegar and chopped parsley. 


(468), GASCOGNE SAUCE AND WITH TOMATOES (Sauce Gascogne et aux Tomates), 


Heat one gill of oil in a saucepan with two cloves of crushed and chopped garlic; add to this 
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the same quantity of chives, two ounces of chopped mushrooms, 
one ounce of chopped truffles, nutmeg, and mignonette, when all these ingredients are fried without 
coloring, add half a pint of white wine and one pint of velouté (No. 415). Boil, skim off the sur- 
face, reduce and pour in two gills of white wine; thicken with four egg-yolks diluted with half 
a gill of cream, and just when ready to serve incorporate into the sauce one ounce of anchovy 
butter (No. 569). 


Gascogne and Tomato Sauce.—Add to the above sauce two gills of tomato purée (No. 730), 
previously strained through a very fine sieve. , ' 


(469), GENEVOISE SAUCE (Sauce Genevoise), 

Place in a saucepan one pound of the head of salmon, moisten it with a bottleful of red wine, 
and a pint of fish broth or water; add four ounces of mushroom parings, a bunch of parsley gar- 
nished with bay leaf, as much thyme, and a clove of garlic, two shallots, and one minced onion, a 
teaspoonful of pepper corns, and half a teaspoonful of whole allspice; set it on the fire to boil and 
continue boiling slowly for half an hour. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve; reduce it with a 
pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and half a gill of Madeira wine; when the sauce is well reduced 
and despumated, work into it just when ready to serve, two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569). 


(470). GENOISE SAUCE (Sauce & la Génoise), 


This sauce must not be confused with genevoise. Put into a saucepan two gills of vinegar, 
and two chopped shailots, let reduce till dry, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) and two gills 
of chicken essence (No. 387) or else fish essence (No. 388), according if needed for fat or leans. 
one ounce of chopped gherkins, two tablespoonfuls of small nonpareil capers, half an ounce of 
Sultana raisins and half an ounce of currants, a coffeespoonful of sugar, a dash of cayenne, 
mignonette, and nutmeg; reduce the whole to a proper consistency and add one gill of tomate 
purée; boil, despumate and reduce to the consistency of a light sauce. Serve this sauce with 
roasted or broiled poultry. 





SAUCES. | 305 


(471). GOOSEBERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Groseilles Vertes 4 Maquereau). 

Cut off the stalks and remove the black spots from half a pound of gooseberries; blanch them 
in an untinned copper vessel for two minutes, drain and add them to a pint of Hollandaise sauce 
(No. 477) or instead of using them whole they may be rubbed through a sieve and the pulp mixed 
with the Hollandaise sauce. 


(472) GOURMETS SAUCE (Sauce des Gourmets). 


Cut four tomatoes in two across, press out the seed and put them in a saucepan with pars- 
ley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, mignonette, and one small minced onion; boil for twenty minutes, drain 
and strain through a sieve; keep the liquid; then put a pint of the pulp into a saucepan with two 
gills of meat glaze (No. 401), beat them well together with a wire whisk, and stir in a quarter of a 
pound of lobster butter, adding a tablespoonful of wine vinegar, one pinch of minced tarragon and 
a tablespoonful of finely chopped and blanched shallots slightly fried in butter. 


(473), GREEN SAUCE Sauce Verte). 


Pour into a saucepan one pint of white wine; add a tablespoonful of vinegar, two well 
chopped shallots, also the quarter of one bay leaf, two stalks of chives, two sprigs of thyme, and 
four branches of chervil; reduce the whole thoroughly, and then add to it one pint of velouté 
sauce (No. 415), a little cayenne pepper, and some spinach green; strain through a tammy, incor- 
porate a few pieces of good butter and serve. 


(474), GREEN HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise Verte), 


Set into a saucepan five tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of pepper corns, some thyme 
and bay leaves. Dilute this with a pint of water and boil while stirring so as to make a thick but 
smooth paste; cook it on a very slow fire for fifteen minutes, then take it off, let it get slightly 
cold, and add ten egg-yolks, afterward the butter and water, a very little at the time; using in all 
about two pounds of fresh butter and half a pound of ravigote butter, the juice of three lemons 
or simply aspoonful of vinegar; color with spinach green, and if too thick, thin it out with water, 
then strain through a tammy and keep it in a bain-marie at a moderate heat. 


(475), GRIMOD SAUCE Gauce a la Grimod). 


Set in a bain-marie two raw egg-yolks, the juice of one lemon, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mi- 
gnonette, also a quarter of a pound of butter; beat the eggs and butter together over a slow fire 
using a small egg-beater; add a little cayenne pepper, a pinch of saffron leaves infused in half a 
gill of water; and when the sauce begins to get warm, strain it through a tammy, and keep it ina 
moderate temperature until needed to serve. 


(476), HAM SAUCE AND HARLEQUIN SAUCE (Gauce au Jambon et a |’Arlequin), 


Ham Sauce.—Place in a saucepan on the fire two ounces of butter, add to it two ounces of 
lean ham either scraped or finely chopped, and then fry it without letting it attain color, and 
moisten with a pint of cream ; reduce and add one pint of béchamel (No. 409); boil it again and 
thicken the sauce with six raw egg-yolks and half a pint more cream; and just when ready to serve 
throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

Harlequin Sauce.—Heat three ounces of butter in a saucepan, add half a pound of raw ham 
cut in three-sixteenth inch squares; fry without coloring, drain off the butter, take out the ham 
‘and detach the glaze with a little broth, adding four gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414), two of 
champagne, and two of veal blond (No. 423); reduce and despumate; strain through a tammy, 
add the ham, four ounces of gherkins cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and four ounces of egg- 
white cut the same; also four ounces of carrots cut in same size squares, blanched and cooked in 
consommé with a little sugar, four ounces of cooked truffles cut the same as the carrots, and a 
heavy pinch of blanched parsley leaves. 


(477), HOLLANDAISE SAUCE AND HOLLANDAISE MOUSSELINE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise et 
Sauce Hollandaise Mousseline), 

Reduce half a gill of vinegar into which a coffeespoonful of white pepper corns has been 
added: remove it from the fire, and pour in about half a gill of cold water, five egg-yolks, two 
ounces of butter, salt, and grated nutmeg; set this saucepan into a larger one containing boiling 
water, or simply on a very slow fire; stir the contents constantly with a wire-egg beater, and as 


306 THE EPICUREAN. 


soon as the sauce becomes consistent add fresh butter divided into small pats, until six ounces 
have been consumed; squeeze in the juice of one lemon, more or less, according to taste, and if the 
sauce be too thick add a little more water to it; then strain it through a tammy (No. 159), pour 
it in the vessel described in Fig. 171, put it in a bain-marie not too hot, then stir it again con- 
stantly for a few minutes and serve. “i 


Hollandaise Mousseline.—Reduce one gill of vinegar, with a few grains of pepper; take it 4 
off the fire, and when the liquid is nearly cold mix in with it five egg-yolks, beating them — 


well with a wire whip, then add five ounces of fresh butter, salt, and nutmeg; set the saucepan 
over a slow fire, stir the preparation rapidly until the butter is melted, then strain the sauce 
through a sieve or tammy into another saucepan; set this one into another containing boiling water 
and keep it on the side of the range, working the sauce incessantly until it is thick and frothy, 
adding little by little a quarter of a pound of butter, and one pint of well-drained whipped cream; 
it is now ready to be served. 


(478). HORSERADISH SAUCES WITH BREAD-CRUMBS, BECHAMEL OR OREAM (Sauces au 
Raifort 4 la mie de Pain, Béchamel ou Oréme), 


The horseradish needed for making sauces should be first scraped, then grated on a coarse 
grater. For plain horseradish, white sauce (No. 562), butter (No. 440) or Hollandaise sauces (No. 
477) are used. The horseradish should never be cooked in the sauce, it must only be put in, in order 
to heat it. 

Horseradish Sauce with Bread-crumbs.—Soak two ounces of bread-crumbs in hot water, then 
squeeze. Cook with broth in a saucepan for a few minutes, finishing with an ounce of butter, two 
spoonfuls of raw cream, salt, and a pinch of sugar. At the last moment add the grated horse- 
radish to the sauce. This sauce is also frequently prepared with plain velouté (No. 415), lightly 
reduced and finished with three spoonfuls of raw cream. This sauce must be passed through a 
tammy (No. 159) and then the grated horseradish added. 

Horseradish Sauce Béchamel, is made by pouring a pint of well seasoned béchamel into a 
saucepan; season with salt, cayenne, and sugar; take it off at the first boil, and add one gill of 
cream, and one ounce of fresh butter, also six ounces of grated horseradish; warm the sauce with- 
out boiling. 

Horseradish and Cream.—Reduce a pint of cream to one-third, add to it salt, nutmeg, sugar 
and eight ounces of grated horseradish; warm it up and thicken with half a gill more of cream, 
two egg-yolks, and two ounces of butter. 


(479), HUNGARIAN SAUCE (Sauce & la Hongroise), 


Pour into a saucepan, the value of half a pint of tomato purée (No. 730) cooked plain, which 
means drained, but not thickened, also the same quantity of onion purée (No. 723), a gill of melted 
meat glaze (No. 401), and a pinch of paprika; let it all boil while stirring for two minutes, then 
remove it to the side of the range, and incorporate slowly into it, five ounces of butter, divided 
into small pats, without ceasing to stir. 


(480), HUNTER’S SAUOE (Sauce au Chasseur), 


Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, with two shallots cut in one-eighth inch dice; fry 
them a light golden color, and then moisten with one pint of espagnole (No. 414), and one pint of 
game stock; season, and boil on one side only, to despumate, then add half a bottle of Bordeaux, 
one ounce of cooked lean ham cut into small three-sixteenth inch squares, and two ounces of 
mushrooms. This sauce may be thickened with two gills of liquid game blood mixed with a table- 
spoonful of good vinegar; thicken it without boiling, strain the sauce through a tammy and serve. 


(481), HUNTRESS SAUCE (Sauce & la Chasseresse), 


Put into a saucepan on the fire, two ounces of butter with two spoonfuls of chopped onions; 
fry these for a few minutes, then add two ounces of chopped fresh mushrooms and two ounces of 
unsmoked, salted beef tongue cut into dice pieces three-sixteenths of an inch. After the humidity 
from the mushrooms has evaporated, let them fry together without coloring. Moisten with a 
quart of game stock (No. 195), and half a botile of champagne, add a bunch of parsley garnished 
with a bay leaf and as much thyme, and then continue to boil slowly for half an hour; strain the 
sauce through a fine sieve, and thicken it with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, adding one 
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon. 





SAUCES. 307 


(482), HUSSARDE SAUCE (Sauce & la Hussarde), 

Fry in a saucepan two ounces of lean ham with two ounces of butter, adding two ounces of 
‘onions, two cut-up, blanched celery roots, all cut in squares, moisten with half a pint of broth (No. 
194a) and half a pint of white wine; add a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as 
much thyme, a clove of garlic and a pinch of tarragon; let the whole boil for half an hour, and 
then thicken it with two ounces of butter kneaded with one ounce of flour, squeeze in the juice of 
a lemon, strain the sauce through a tammy and mingle in with it two ounces of grated fresh 
horseradish. 3 


e (483), INDIAN SAUCE (Sauce & I’Indienne), 


Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two ounces of onions, two ounces of lean 
unsmoked ham, one ounce of celery and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and two cloves 
of garlic. Moisten with two gills of veal blond (No. 423), one quart of espagnole (No. 414) or 
velouté (No. 415) (if velouté is used thicken with four egg-yolks and half a gill of cream), add one 
tablespoonful of pepper corns, three cloves, one pinch of saffron, and one teaspoonful of curry. 
Reduce all this and then strain it through a tammy (Fig. 88), and just when ready to serve 
‘incorporate into it two ounces of fresh butter. 


(484), ITALIAN SAUOE (Sauce & 1’Italienne), 


Place a tablespoonful of olive oil and two ounces of butter ina saucepan with two ounces of 
onions, and four shallots, all chopped up; a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and the 
Same quantity of thyme, two cloves and one clove of garlic, two ounces of ham cut in squares, fry 
all these without letting them attain color, add a quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms; 
‘moisten with one gill of white wine and three gills of veal blond (No. 423), salt, red pepper and 
nutmeg to season, add a quart of espagnole (No. 414), or velouté (No. 415), skim off and reduce 
the sauce; suppress the parsley, just when ready to serve add the juice of a lemon and a teaspoonful — 
of chopped parsley. For Italian sauce with truffies add two ounces of chopped truffles. 


(485), JUVIGNY SAUCE (Sauce Juvigny). 


This sauce is made by putting a teaspoonful of chives and the same quantity of parsley, both 
finely chopped, into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, set it on the fire and add to it one 
tablespoonful of shallots; fry all lightly without coloring, then put in one pint of velouté (No. 415), 
one gill of white wine, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg, let boil up for a few minutes; despumate 
well, and just when serving stir in a tablespoonful of small capers. 


(486), LAGUIPIERRE SAUCE (auce & la Laguipierre), 


Pour into asaucepan a quarter of a bottleful of white wine or champagne, add to it two ounces 
of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of chopped and blanched shallots, half a clove of. garlic, 
one bay leaf, six grains of allspice, eighteen grains of pepper, and let all these simmer together 
with two gills of veal blond (No. 423) for fifteen minutes, then add one pint of velouté (No. 415), 
and one gill of reduced mushroom essence (No. 392); thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and 
one gill of cream, strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159), and then beat into it two ounces 
of fresh butter and the juice of one lemon. 


(487), LITHUANIAN SAUCE (Sauce & la Lithuanienne), 

Knead together in a saucepan four ounces of butter with one and a half ounces of fresh bread- 
crumbs, add the juice of one lemon; two spoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401), some nutmeg and 
mignonette. Set this on a moderate fire, and stir the preparation without letting it boil; just 
when ready to serve, add one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, dilute it with stock (No. 423); see 
that the sauce is not too thick. 


(488), LOBSTER SAUCE, LOBSTER SAUCE WITH MADEIRA WINE AND LOBSTER SAUCE 
WITH LOBSTER BUTTER (Sauce Homard, Sauce Homard au Vin de Madére et Sauce 
au Beurre de Homard), 


Lobster Sauce.—Place a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415), in a saucepan with pepper corns, 
thyme, bay leaf and a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched onions, cook all together, then strain 
through a tammy (No. 159); just when ready to serve incorporate in a piece of lobster butter 
{No. 580), and a dash of vinegar. 


308 THE EPICUREAN. 


Lobster Sauce with Madeira Wine.—Put into a saucepan two gills of dry Madeira wine, one 


chopped shallot, a pinch of parsley leaves, mignonette and grated nutmeg, reduce with two gills of 
broth, and when well reduced add one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) and two ounces of very — 


red lobster butter (No. 580), strain through a tammy and drop in one ounce of lobster meat. 
cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares. 

Lobster Sauce with Lobster Butter.—Have in a saucepan half velouté sauce (No. 415) and 
half Hollandaise (No. 477), a little water, salt, mignonette and nutmeg. When the sauce is. 
very hot incorporate in a piece of lobster butter and some chopped parsley. 


(489) LOMBARDE SAUCE (Sauce Lombarde), 


Have in a saucepan half a bottleful of white wine, add to it two ounces of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, two finely chopped and blanched shallots and a quarter of a pound of 
chopped mushrooms. Let all simmer till the liquid is reduced, then add a pint of béchamel CGS 
409), and a ae of cream, also the juice of a lemon and a pinch of mignonette. 


(490), SAUCE A LA LUCULLUS (Sauce & la Lucullus), 


Garnish the bottom of a thick bottomed buttered saucepan with four onions cut in slices, four 
ounces of sliced ham, one pound of sliced veal and half a pound of game fragments, moisten with 
one pint of veal blond (No. 423). Set this on a slow fire and let reduce to a glaze, then 
remoisten with two and a half quarts more broth, adding a bunch of parsley, as much celery, and: 


two bay leaves, with an equal quantity of thyme, four cloves, two ounces of truffle parings and 


four ounces of mushrooms, let it boil until perfectly cooked, then strain through a tammy and 
reduce it to the consistency of a thick syrup, and add one quart of velouté (No 415) or espagnole- 
(No. 414); for either one or the other have two spoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401), then put in four 
ounces of truffles cut in balls and four ounces of channeled mushrooms; mix well with the sauce. 
and serve 


(491), LYONNESE SAUCE WITH TARRAGON (Sauce Lyonnaise 4 l’Estragon), 
Cut up eight ounces of onions into three-sixteenth inch squares; blanch, then drain and fry 
them in two gills of oil or else six ounces of butter; when nearly done, put them into a saucepan 
with one pint of veal blond (No. 423), one pint of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté sauce (No. 415), 


and one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401); reduce it, then add the juice of a lemon, some ~ 


nutmeg, and mignonette. Strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159), then incorporate into. 
it four ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of tarragon leaves finely shredded and blanched. 


(492), MADEIRA SAUCE, OR SHERRY, MARSALA, ETO. (Sauce au vin de Madére, au Xérés, 
ou au Marsala, etc.), 


Reduce well one pint of espagnole (No. 414), adding slowly to it one gill of veal blond (No. 
423), or chicken stock (No. 195) and a few truffle parings; when the sauce is well reduced, incor- 
porate into it by degrees, two gills of Madeira wine or any other preferred. As soon as the sauce 
is finished, pass through a tammy and keep warm in a bain-marie. 


(493), MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE, THICKENED (Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel, Liée), 


Put into a high saucepan three gills of velouté (No. 415) gr béchamel (No. 409) with two gills. 
of water; let it warm up and then add to it slowly half a pound of butter, working it in well, pass 
through a tammy; season with the juice of a lemon, some salt and pepper, and should the sauce: 
be too thick then add a little more water; strain again through a tammy, add one teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley. 


(494), SAUCE A LA MANTAISE (Sauce & la Mantaise), 


Pound four ounces of chicken fat livers with two ounces of beef marrow; fry in two ounces of 
butter, two ounces of mushrooms, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two chopped shallots, and 
one crushed clove of garlic; let this get cold, and then pound it well adding to it the pounded 
livers and marrow; with this preparation fill a mold well lined with bardes of fat pork, and cook 
it in the oven for an hour, then unmold it over a sieve to drain. Dilute this mixture with a pint 
of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415), and one or two gills of chicken essence (No. 387): 
strain it through a tammy, and beat up the sauce well before serving. 





, 





SAU Che. 309 


(495), SAUCE A LA MAROBAU (Sauce & la Marceav), 


Keep in a bain-marie, three pints of espagnole (No. 414) reduced with some game fumet 
{No. 397) and Madeira wine. Cook in plenty of salted water, in a covered vessel, one dozen peeled 
cloves of garlic, until very tender, then drain them; wipe them dry on a cloth, and fry them for a 
few minutes in a pan, with some melted butter till the moisture is thoroughly evaporated, then 
rub them through a sieve and afterward through a tammy (No. 159), and add this purée slowly 
into the sauce; stir well, and pour it into a sauceboat. 


(496), MARINADE SAUCE (Sauce Marinade), 


Cut into thin slices a quarter of a pound of carrots and as many onions; lay them in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, as much thyme, 
basil, and a clove of garlic, two minced shallots, and four cloves. Fry the whole lightly without 
¢oloring in the butter, and then moisten with two quarts of water, and one pint of vinegar or more 
according to strength, and a tablespoonful of peppercorns; let cook for one hour, then strain 
through a sieve, return it to the fire, and reduce to half; add one quart of espagnole (No. 414) 
and reduce again to the consistency of a sauce. 


(497), MARINIERE SAUCE (Sauce Mariniére). 


Have two ounces of onions cut into small three-sixteenth inch squares; fry them colorless in 
two ounces of butter, then moisten them with a gill of white wine, adding one tablespoonful of 
brandy, two ounces of finely chopped mushrooms, one pint of velouté (No. 415), two gills of veal 
blond (No. 423) or fish stock (No. 195) (if for lean), salt, pepper, nutmeg, one clove of garlic, one 
bay leaf, and as much thyme. Let cook, despumate for half an hour, skim well the surface, and 
add another gill of white wine, then strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159), and just when 
ready to serve, throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 


(498). MATELOTTE SAUCE (Sauce Matelotte), 


Cut in slices one pound of pike, half a pound of eels, and half a pound of carp; put these into 
@ saucepan with minced carrots and onions, two ounces of each, half a handful of parsley and basil, 
two small cloves of garlic, bay leaf, thyme, salt and allspice: pour in half a bottleful of Bordeaux 
wine, and half a pint of fish broth or water; let boil for ten minutes, then drain and add to the 
liquid either half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), or some kneaded butter; reduce, dilute with 
a gill of Bordeaux wine, and finally incorporate into it, two ounces of fresh butter. Just when 
ready to serve throw into the sauce, half a pound of mushrooms, and twenty-four small white 
onions lightly browned in a pan and cooked in broth. 

A More Simple Way, is to fry a little minced onions and shallot in butter, and when a nice 
color drain off the butter and moisten the onions with two gills of Burgundy wine; let the liquid 
reduce to half and then incorporate four gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414); let reduce 
once more, and after the sauce is properly done, strain it through a sieve, and keep it 
warm. 


(499), SAUCE A LA MILANESE (Sauce & la Milanaise), 

Have two ounces of butter in a saucepan with one ounce of minced, raw ham and two table 
spoonfuls of chopped shallot; fry them without coloring, and then add a small handful of parsley 
and basil, a bay leaf and as much thyme, one ounce of chopped mushrooms, a pinch of cayenne, a 
bit of mace, two cloves, one coffeespoonful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, half a gill of dry Ma- 
deira, and a pint of consommé (No. 189). Boil all and reduce it to half, then add one pint of 
allemande sauce (No. 407), and strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159), afterward incor- 
porating into it two ounces of fine butter. A garnishing should be added to this sauce of pignolas, 
cooked spaghetti cut in half inch lengths, cooked ham and mushrooms cut in half inch sticks and 
an eighth of an inch square. 


(500), SAUCE A LA MIRABEAU ‘Sauce & la Mirabeau). 


Pound three hard boiled egg-yolks with a handful of chervil and two tablespoonfuls of capers, 
adding a quarter of a pound of butter, a clove of garlic chopped and crushed; then rub the mix- 
ture through a sieve. Put into a saucepan a quart of velouté (No. 415) and two gills of chicken 
stock (No. 195); let it boil: up; despumate the surface and reduce the whole, afterward adding 
very slowly the prepared butter, working it in the sauce with a whisk, season highly and strain 
through a tammy, heating it again before using. 


310 THE EPICUREAN 


(501), MODERN HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise Moderne), 


Modern Hollandaise is made as follows: Melt two pounds of butter in a saucepan without heat- 
ing it too much, then let it settle, and pour off the top. Beat twelve egg-yolks in a saucepan 
with half a pint of water. Set the saucepan on a slow fire, and stir the contents continuously with 
a whisk: and as soon as the eggs become consistent incorporate into them the butter previously 


melted, little by little, some salt and mignonette; or else a dash of cayenne instead of the mi- — 


gnonette, and besides this the juice of four lemons. If the sauce be too thick add a little water, 
and then pass it through a tammy (No. 159). Put the sauce in the mixing pot (Fig. 171); keep it 
in a bain-marie, not too hot, until needed. 


(502), SAUCE A LA MONTEBELLO (Sauce & la Montebello), 
Prepare one pint of thick bearnaise sauce (No. 433), and incorporate into it three gills of well 


reduced tomato sauce (No. 549), then strain the whole through a very fine sieve, and dilute it with — 


two gills of champagne. 


(503), SAUCE A LA MONTIGNY AND TOMATO EXTRAOT (Sauce & la a Monn ER et & VExtrait 
de Tomates), 


Put into a saucepan two ounces of fresh butter and two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallots; let 
fry colorless with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; cook together for five 
minutes, then moisten with two gills of tomato extract, a gill of meat glaze (No. 401), three gills 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414), a pinch of powdered sugar, a pint of velouté (No. 415), chopped 
parsley and lemon juice. 


Tomato Extract. —Cook some tomatoes for half an hour; strain them through a coarse sieve, 
put them on a piece of muslin over a vessel to retain all the falling liquid, and reduce this liquid 
to a thick syrup. . 


(504), SAUCE A LA MORNAY (Sauce & la Mornay), 


After reducing a good béchamel sauce (No. 409), stir into it incessantly a few spoonfuls of 
mushroom sauce (No. 392) and some raw cream, also essence of fish (No. 388), should this sauce 
be needed for fish; but if otherwise then use a few spoonfuls of good chicken stock (No. 195) 
reduced to a half-glaze. When the sauce becomes succulent and creamy, pour it into a smalk 
saucepan, beat it smooth while heating it, and finish it off of the fire with some butter and grated 
parmesan cheese. This sauce is used for dishes that are bread-crumbed and for meats baked by 
a salamander. Its delicacy forbids it being boiled. _ 


(505). MUSHROOM SAUCE (Sauce aux Champignons), 


Turn and wash half a pound of small mushroom heads (No. 118); put them into a saucepan 
with the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, some salt and a gill of water. 
When they are cooked, after three minutes, drain, and put the liquid back into a saucepan with a 
pint of velouté (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414), either fat or lean according to its requirements, 
then reduce and despumate the sauce. Just when ready to serve incorporate into it two ounces 
of butter and the cooked mushrooms. 


(506). MUSSEL SAUCE (Sauce aux Moules), 


Scrape eighteen mussels, wash them clean in several waters, and put them into a saucepan 
with half a gill of water, some vinegar and pepper, but no salt, sprigs of parsley and minced 
onions; cover the saucepan, set it on the fire, and toss it several times until they open, then take 
them from their shells, cut off their black parts, and strain the broth after it has well settled; 
pour off the clear part, leaving the sediment at the bottom, and strain this through a sieve. Put 
one pint of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan, also two gills of the mussel broth; reduce, and 
thicken with four raw egg-yolks, a little nutmeg, half a gill of cream, two ounces of butter, and 
the juice of a lemon; strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159), and finish by adding a small 
coffeespoonful of chopped parsley and the eighteen cooked mussels; warm well and serve. 


(507). NEAPOLITAN SAUOE (Sauce Napolitaine), 


Put two ounces of cooked, lean, and well chopped ham into a saucepan with a bunch of parsley 
garnished with a bay leaf, and as much thyme, some mignonette, nutmeg and cayenne, two gills 
of Madeira wine, and two gills of broth; let reduce to half on a slow fire, then suppress the bunch 








SAUCES. . 311 


of parsley, and add one pint of espagnole (No. 414); boil it up again, despumate, and strain it 
through a tammy (No. 159), put it back to reduce once more, adding to it two gills of Malaga 
wine, and a quarter of a pound of current jelly, dissolving the latter slowly by degrees, and two 
spoonfuls of grated horseradish. 


(508), NONPAREIL SAUCE (Sauce Nonpareille), 


Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415), with two gills of cream, incorporating in two ounces of 
fresh butter; strain it through a tammy (No. 159), and set in one ounce of truffles, two ounces of 
mushrooms, two ounces of cooked egg-whites cut in squares, two tablespoonfuls of chopped coral, 
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of small capers, and three ounces of red 
beef tongue or ham cut into three-sixteenths of an inch pieces. 


(509), SAUCE A LA NORMANDE (Sauce & la Normande). 


Cut three pounds of bony fish into pieces, such as sheepshead, bass, blackfish, redsnapper, 
etc., let the pieces be of a quarter of a pound each; put them into a saucepan with two minced 
onions, two ounces of mushroom parings, some parsley, a bay leaf, the same quantity of thyme and 
two cloves of garlic, moisten with a quarter of a bottle of white wine, three pints of water, two 
gills of oyster liquor and let the whole cook slowly for thirty minutes, then strain the sauce through 
a fine sieve, and add to it one quart of velouté (No. 415), another quarter of a bottle of white 
wine, and reduce it all; just when ready to serve, thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and 
incorporate into it two ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon; season well and finish by 
straining once more through a tammy (No. 159). 


(510), OLIVE SAUCE (Sauce aux Olives), 


Verdal or Spanish Olives, Stuffed or Not Stuffed.cRemove the stones from two ounces of 
olives without injuring their,shape, then throw them into boiling, salted water, drain them after 
they have boiled up once or twice, and put them into a pint of reduced and clear espagnole (No. 
414). The empty spaces in the olives may be filled with a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 
mixed with anchovy butter (No. 569); poach and drain, and stir them into the sauce. 


(511), ORANGE SAUCE (Sauce a& 1’Orange), 


Shred the peel of an orange as finely as possible, throw the pieces into boiling water, and let 
them cook for five minutes, then drain and put them into a saucepan with two gills of beef juice, 
three gills of espagnole (No. 414), the juice of two oranges and of one lemon, and a pinch of 
cayenne pepper. 


(512), SAUCE A LA DORLEANS (Sauce & la d'Orléans), 


Fry lightly in one ounce of butter three chopped shallots; add a tablespoonful of meat glaze 
(No. 401), and one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407), and incorporate into it half a pound of 
crawfish butter (No. 573) and a pinch of cayenne pepper; strain through a tammy and serve. 


(513), OYSTER SAUCE (Sauce aux Huitres), 


Poach in white wine one dozen small oysters; strain the juice and leave it to settle. Put on 
the fire to reduce three gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), and stir into it slowly one gill of good 
fish stock (No. 195) and the oyster juice, thickening the whole with half a gill of cream, and two 
egg-yolks; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; then strain the sauce, add a 
little butter to it, also the oysters and some chopped parsley. 


(514), SAUCE A LA PALERMITAINE (Sauce & la Palermitaine), 


Place all together in a saucepan one ounce of cooked, minced ham, one ounce of chopped pigno- 
las, one clove of garlic, one gill of oil, eight tomatoes washed, cut across in two and well pressed, 
a bunch of parsley garnished with as much bay leaf as thyme, mignonette, nutmeg and two cloves. 
Let all cook, then drain, and strain forcibly through a fine sieve, reduce together both the broth 
and purée, adding toit two gills of white wine, a teaspoonful of sugar, three gills of broth, one 
quart of allemande (No. 407), four ounces of butter, and the pulp of a lemon. 


312 THE EPICUREAN. 


(515), PARISIAN SAUCE (Sauce Parisienne), 


To make the essence, cook two ounces of truffle parings in three gills of boiling dry white wine 3 
with some parsley, bay leaf, and a small minced shallot, then leave it for half an hour in a high i 
covered saucepan in a bain-marie before draining it over a sieve. Pour this essence into a pint of 
velouté (No. 415); reduce and add two spoonfuls of meat or chicken glaze (No. 398), a pinch of 

cayenne, and stir in just when ready to serve two ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon. ~ 





(516), PERIGORD SAUCE (Sauce Périgord), 


Peel eight ounces of medium sized fresh Périgord truffles; cook them for five minutes with 
salt and Madeira wine, then remove from the fire and keep them in the covered saucepan. Make 
an infusion with two gills of Madeira wine, one ounce of raw ham, the truffle peelings, thyme and 
bay leaf, and a few sprigs of parsley. Put on the fire to reduce, four gills of good velouté (No. 
415), and incorporate into it slowly, one gill of cream, and the same quantity of the Madeira wine 
infusion already prepared. When the sauce is succulent and sufficiently consistent, strain and 
pour it into a saucepan, mixing in with it the cooked truffles cut into thin slices; keep the sauce 
warm in a bain-marie. 


(517), PERIGUEUX SAUCE (Sauce Périgueux), 


Peel three ounces of fresh truffles; cook them with some salt and Madeira wine; remove them™ 
from the fire and keep them in a covered vessel. Infuse in two gills of boiling Madeira wine, one 
ounce of raw ham cut into dices, the truffle peelings, some thyme, bay leaf, and sprigs of parsley. 
Put on the fire to reduce, one pint of espagnole (No. 414), stir slowly into it, one gill of veal blond 
(No. 423), and the same quantity of Madeira infusion. When the sauce is succulent and sufficiently 
consistent, strain it, and set it into a saucepan with a few scares of the cooked truffles cut into 
eighth of an inch squares. 

Another way is to infuse in two gills of Madeira wine, one ounce of truffle peelings witha little 
thyme and bay leaf, leaving them in for thirty minutes. Pour into a saucepan a pint of espagnole 
sauce (No. 414) with essence of ham (No. 390), a little mignonette, and two gills of chicken or game 
stock (No. 195), then reduce and strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159). Place in another . 
saucepan two ounces of truffles cut in small one-eighth inch squares with two gills of Madeira  _— 
wine, reduce it until dry, and incorporate into the sauce just when ready to serve one ounce of : 
fresh butter. ; 


(518), PIOKLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Cornichons), 


Slice two ounces of pickles into thin pieces, and lay them in a saucepan with one gill of vinegar ; 
and a pinch of mignonette; let it boil up quickly and reduce it to half its quantity, then add one | 
pint of espagnole (No. 414), two gills of veal blond (No. 423), a bay leaf, and as much thyme. ¢ 
Despumate the sauce for fifteen minutes, then suppress the bay leaf and thyme, and serve. 7 


(519). PIEDMONTESE SAUCE (Sauce Piémontaise), ; 


Fry lightly without coloring in two ounces of clarified butter, four ounces of onions, when 
done, drain the butter, and finish cooking them in one pint of veal blond (No. 423). Skim off all 
the fat, and then pour in a pint of béchamel (No. 409) or espagnole (No.414), reduce and add two 
ounces of white Piemont truffles cut in squares; just when ready to serve, stir in an ounceof garlic 
butter (No. 576) mixed with anchovy butter (No. 569); then add a dash of cayenne pepper and the 
juice of a lemon. 


(520), PIGNOLA SAUOE, ITALIAN STYLE (Sauce aux Pignons @ I'Ttalienne), 


Put two ounces of brown sugar in a saucepan with three gills of good vinegar, three gills of 
veal blond (No. 423), and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and thyme, some mignonette 
and nutmeg. Let the whole simmer over a slow fire, and reduce it to half. Then add a pint of 
espagnole (No. 414) and two gills of red wine; reduce again and put in four ounces of pignolas, 
let them boil in the sauce and serve. 


(521) PIMENTADE SAUCE (Sauce Pimentade), 


Cut up into quarter inch squares a quarter of a pound of lean veal and two ounces of onions, 
a quarter of a pound of raw, lean ham, then add a small clove of crushed garlic, put all these into 
a saucepan with some butter and let cook slowly. Fry some sweet Spanish peppers in oil after 





SAUCES. 3 313 


removing the skins; also some green peppers having both finely chopped, add these to the ham, veal 
and onions and then add a little good gravy and espagnole sauce (No. 414), also a little tomato 
purée (No. 730). Boil all together, season properly, skim off the fat and serve. 


(522), POIVRADE SAUCE (Sauce Poivrade), 


For Fat Potvrade a lV Espagnole.—Have a pint of poivrade (No. 528), half a pint of 
espagnole (No. 414), half a pint of veal blond (No. 428), and reduce all till properly done, season 
well. 

Hor Lean Poivrade.—Suppress the ham from the poivrade (No. 523), and replace it by 
sturgeon, and the fat stock by some lean stock (No. 195). 

For White Poivrade with Velouté.—Reduce two gills of white wine to half, adding some white 
peppers, aromatic herbs and mushroom parings. Put into this reduced stock three gills of velouté 
sauce (No. 415), with a little glaze (No. 401), and thenstirin slowly a few spoonfuls of good stock 
(No. 423); when the sauce becomes succulent, set it into a deep saucepan, and if not used at once in 
a bain-marie. 


(523), POIVRADE FOR SAUCES (Poivrade pour Sauces), 

Not to be mistaken for poivrade sauce. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter with half 
a pound of onions and six shallots, both cut into one-eighth inch squares, also a pound of carrots, 
half a pound of lean ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, a tablespoonful of pepper corns or 
else a teaspoonful of mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, a clove of 
garlic and four cloves. Fry the whole slowly without coloring; then moisten with one pint of 
vinegar and a pint of veal blond (No. 423), reduce all until dry, and moisten once more with a 
pint of veal blond and two gills of white wine, also three pints of espagnole (No. 414). Boil 
slowly, despumate for an hour, and strain through a sieve. 


(524), POLISH SAUCE (Sauce & la Polonaise), 


Place in a deep saucepan, two tablespoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish, one coffeespoonful 
of powdered sugar, with one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401), and a pint of velouté (No. 
_ 415); squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add the chopped peel of a quarter of a lemon with a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley or fennel, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, set the saucepan in a 
bain-marie and when ready to serve incorporate two ounces of fresh butter into the sauce. 


(525), POMPADOUR SAUCE (Sauce Pompadour), 


Fry lightly in two ounces of butter two finely chopped shallots, do not let them color; add to 
them four ounces of minced mushrooms; stir with a spoon until they have exhausted all their 
moisture; now pour in five gills of velouté (No. 415) and let the whole boil, with three gills of veal 
blond (No. 423), despumating it well. Thicken the sauce with six raw egg-yolks diluted ina gill 
of cream, add two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, also a spoonful of chopped and 
blanched parsley. 


(526). PORTUGUESE SAUCE (Sauce a la Portugaise). 


Rub on a loaf of sugar, the peel of one lemon and one orange; scrape the sugar off with a 
spoon to obtain the part colored by the peels, then put this in a saucepan with a coffeespoon- 
ful of coriander seeds and two gills of port wine; set the pan on the fire and when a white 
foam rises to.the top, remove it at once and cover. Half an hour later pour the wine through a 
fine sieve and add to it three gills of béchamel sauce (No. 409), and two of tomato purée (No. 730); 
let the sauce boil up once then strain it through a tammy; add to it the juices of both the lemon 
and orange, besides a spoonful of chopped parsley. 


(527), POULETTE SAUCE (Sauce & la Poulette), 
Pour a pint of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan; let it boil, then thicken it with four raw 
egg-yolks diluted with a little cream; add at the last moment two ounces of butter, the juice of a 
lemon and some chopped parsley. 


(528), PRINCESS SAUCE (Sauce & la Princesse), 
Put one pint of béchamel (No. 409) into a saucepan, adding to it two tablespoonfuls of chicken 
glaze (No. 398), one gill of cream, and some grated nutmeg; stir in just when ready to serve, four 
ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon. 


314 THE EPICUREAN. 





(529), PROVENCGAL SAUCE, FAT OR LEAN (auce & la Provengale en Gras ou en Maigre), 


Fry lightly in two gills of oil, half a pound of minced onions, two ounces of ham (or smoked 
salmon, if for lean), a pinch of parsley leaves, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, thyme, bay 
leaf, mignonette, nutmeg, a pinch of ground cloves; dilute with a pint of fish stock (No.195), 
if for lean, or veal blond (No. 423) if for fat; let cook, despumate, and when the broth is reduced 
to a third, add a pint of espagnole (No. 414), if for brown or allemande (No. 407) if for white; 
one or the other, for fat or lean. Stir in two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of a lemon to 


finish. 
(530). QUEEN SAUCE (Sauce a la Reine), 


Set into a saucepan, an ounce and a half of fresh bread-crumbs, and one pint of chicken 
essence (No. 887); pound two ounces of sweet almonds freshly peeled with two gills of cream, and 
press this forcibly through a napkin. Pound two hard boiled egg-yolks, with two ounces of fresh 
butter; season with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, rub it through a sieve, then add this to the bread- 
crumbs, seasoning with sait, cayenne, and nutmeg, and also the cream almond milk, besides three 
gills of fresh cream, Chopped trufiles may also be added to this sauce. 


(531), RAVIGOTE SAUCES, AROMATIO, WHITE, WITH OIL. AND GREEN PRINTANIERE (Sauces. 
Ravigote, Aromatique, Blanche, 4 l’Huile et Printaniére Verte), | 


Aromatic Ravigote.—Fry in one ounce of butter, two ounces of onions, moisten with two gills 
of Chablis wine, three gills of consommé, (No 189) and the juice of a lemon; add a piece of garlic the 
size of a pea, two chopped shallots, one ounce of chopped, pickled cucumbers, half an ounce of capers, 
some parsley roots cut in Julienne and blanched, branches of tarragon leaves, four cloves, two 
bay leaves, as much thyme, and some nutmeg; boil the whole slowly for half an hour, then strain 
it through a fine sieve; add this to one quart of espagnole (No. 414). Reduce and add two spoonfuls 
of mustard; strain the whole through a’ tammy (No. 159) and incorporate into it two ounces of 
fresh butter, a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and half a. teaspoonful of tarragon leaves, finely 
cut-up. 

White Ravigote.—Infuse in one gill of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of chervil, a quarter of 
an ounce of tarragon, and a quarter of an ounce of pimpernel; add to the infusion one pint of 
velouté (No. 415) and one gill of white wine, then boil together for ten minutes; strain through a 
tammy (No. 159) and beat into the sauce two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 


Hot Ravigote with Oil.—Set into a saucepan three tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots with 
one gill of vinegar and three gills of white wine, reduce the liquid to half, then add to it a quart of 
velouté (No. 415), beat it up with a wire whisk and stir into it three gills of oil, putting in a very little 
at a time and continuing to beat, then add a teaspoonful of mustard, a pinch of tarragon and 
the same of chopped chervil. 


Green Ravigote Printaniére.—After picking and washing half an ounce each of chervil, 
tarragon, chives and pimpernel, blanch them all in a copper vessel containing boiling, salted water, 
leave them to boil for afew minutes, then drain and refresh them; drain once more, and press out 
all the water. Pound these herbs well, and mingle with them four ounces of butter, color with 
spinach green (No. 37) then rub the whole through a sieve, stir well this butter into a pint of 
velouté, (No. 415) add to it a spoonful of good vinegar some pepper and nutmeg; pass this sauce 
through a tammy (No. 159). 


(532). REGENCE SAUCE (Sauce & la Régence). 


For Fat.—Set four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add four ounces of chopped onions; fry 
lightly and add two ounces of ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, eight ounces of minced 
mushrooms or their parings, branches of parsley, two bay leaves, as much thyme, two cloves and 
mignonette; fry all these ingredients together without coloring, moisten with two quarts of 
espagnole (No. 414) and a pint of chicken stock (No. 195), cook the whole for forty-five minutes, 
skim and pass through a tammy (No. 159). Put in a saucepan on the fire, three gills of white 
Bordeaux; when reduced to half, add a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles; heat well and put 
this in with the above sauce. 


For Lean.—Use fish stock (No.195) instead of fat chicken stock, suppress the ham and replace 
it by sturgeon or carp. 





SAUCES. 315 


(533), ROBERT SAUCE (Sauce a la Robert), 


Fry slowly in a saucepan two white onions weighing six ounces, and cut into small squares, 
With two ounces of butter, in such a way that they are half cooked without browning, then drain 
off the butter, and moisten the onions with two gills of consommé (No. 189}, and one gill of white 
wine; reduce the sauce to a glaze, then moisten once more with three gills of espagnole sauce (No. 
414), reduced with one gill of veal blond (No. 423); add acoffeespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
vinegar, a tablespoonful of mustard, and a pinch of cayenne; let boil for a few minutes to enable 
the fat to be skimmed off, and keep the sauce warm in a bain-marie. 


(534), ROMAN SAUCE (Sauce Romaine), 


Mince two ounces of celery root and put it into a saucepan with a coffeespoonful of coriander 
seeds, the same quantity of powdered sugar, a small clove of garlic crushed and chopped, a bunch 
of parsley and basil garnished with two bay leaves, and a quarter of a bottleful of champagne; let 
simmer for thirty minutes, then add one pint of espagnole (No. 414), and one gill of veal blond 
(No. 423); strain the whole through a tammy, and stir in two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of 
a lemon, also two ounces of Sultana raisins washed and boiled in half a gill of Madeira wine. 


(535), RUSSIAN SAUCE (Sauce ala Russe), 


Have two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish in a saucepan with one pint of velouté (No. 415), 
a teaspoonful of chopped chives, a coffeespoonful of finely cut tarragon, a tablespoonful of mus- 
tard, and one gill of cream; season with salt and pepper, and add one teaspoonful of sugar, the juice 
of a lemon, and a heavy pinch of finely minced fennel, heat the sauce without boiling. 


(536), SALMIS SAUCE, WITH WHITE WINE, WITH CHAMPAGNE, WITH RED WINE AND 
TRUFFLES (Sauce Salmis, au vin Blanc au Champagne, au vin Rouge et aux Truffes), 

With White Wine.—Fry in butter without coloring the broken carcasses of six quails or 
three partridges; add to this half a bottleful of white wine and some broth, a garnished bunch of 
parsley and a few mushroom parings, then let boil slowly for one hour. Make an espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) with this fumet, and when properly reduced add to it the pounded meats and fragments. 
previously cut off from the carcasses; pass all through a tammy, and then pour in some game 
glaze (No. 398) and butter, just when ready to serve. 


With Champagne—Lay in a saucepan one pound of game carcasses, such as pheasants or 
grouse, after breaking them in pieces; to them add a quarter of a bottleful of champagne, two. 
bay leaves, two minced shallots and one pint of broth; let all these simmer for half an hour 
before straining through a fine sieve, then reduce it to half with a pint of espagnole, adding an- 
other quarter bottleful of champagne and reduce it once more. Season with salt, black and red 
pepper, also grated nutmeg, and strain through a tammy, and just when ready to serve mix in two 
ounces of fresh butter. 

With Red Wine and Truffies.—Break up the carcasses of six snipes, or plovers, or wood- 
cocks; fry them in some butter with their intestines, suppressing the gizzards and pouches, two bay 
leaves, as much thyme and as much basil, some truffle peelings, one pint of espagnole (No. 414), and 
two gills of red wine. Boil, skim, and when prepared to serve squeeze in the juice of a lemon; 
strain the sauce through a tammy, (No. 159), and add to it one or two ounces of peeled and minced 


truffles. 


(637), SHALLOT SAUCE AND SHALLOT GRAVY (Sauce & l'Echalote et Jus & V'Echalote). 


Blanch in boiling salted water three finely chopped shallots, placing them in the corner of a 
napkin; afterward cook them in a gill of consommé (No. 189); reduce this latter | until dry, then. 
add to it one gill of velouté (No. 415). Now pound four hard boiled egg-yolks with six ounces of 
butter; put the preparation intoa saucepan, and stir it while heating till it becomes very hot, then 
season with salt, mignonette and lemon juice; if too thick add a little water and then strain it 
through a tammy (No. 159), and mix in a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley; stir it into the above: 
prepared sauce. 

Shallot Gravy.—Put eight minced shallots, a small bay leaf, some thyme and branches of 
parsley in a saucepan, moisten with two gills of clear gravy (No. 404) and let all cook for ten. 
minutes on the corner of the range; strain through a napkin, and keep the sauce warm In a 


bain-marie until needed. 


316 THE EPICUREAN. 


(538), SHARP SAUCE WITH CAPERS AND ONION PUREE (Sauce Piquante aux Capres et 
& la Purée d’Oignons), 


Sharp Sauce.—Reduce to one-half, five or six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, with some 
shallots, cut in one-eighth of an inch squares. Put on the fire to reduce, three or four gills of 
sauce espagnole (No. 414) free from all fat, one gill of veal blond, (No. 423) and then the above 
infusion, pouring it in slowly, and when the sauce is sufficiently succulent and thick, strain it ia 
a saucepan and keep it warm in a bain-marie. 

Sharp with Capers, and Onion Purée—Add a'pint of espagnole (No. 414) to a tablespoonful 


of good vinegar, and set them in a saucepan with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a little thyme, two 
cloves, and two gills of broth, also a pinch of powdered sugar; let the whole boil for fifteen minutes, 


then skim off the fat; strain through a tammy, and finish by adding two spoonfuls of capers, 
and two of onion purée. 


(539), CHOPPED SAUCE (Sauce Hachée), 


Add one tablespoonful of chopped shallots to one gill of vinegar; put them in a saucepan with 
one chopped and crushed clove of garlic; let boil slowly until thoroughly reduced then moisten 
with a gill of broth, and one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); add two ounces of chopped 
mushrooms, one tablespoonful of parsley, one of pickles, and one of small capers, all chopped 
separately, and just when serving, incorporate into the sauce two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg. 


(540), SHRIMP SAUCE, SHRIMP AND CREAM SAUCE (Sauce aux eae Sauce aux Crevettes 
& la Créme), 


Shrimp Sauce.—Skin half a pound of cooked shrimps; pound their shells with a quarter of a | 


pound of butter, and the juice of one lemon; pass this through a sieve. Cut the shrimps into 
dice shaped pieces. Boil one pint of white poivrade sauce (No. 522), thicken it with two egg-yolks, 


and half a gill of fresh cream, and finish with a quarter of a pound of shrimp butter (No. 586), — 


adding a pinch of cayenne pepper, a coffeespoonful of fine herbs, and the pieces of shrimp. 


Shrimp and Cream Sauce.—Reduce one pint of béchamel (No. 409) with one gill of mush- 
room essence (No. 392), and incorporate into this, two ounces of shrimp butter (No. 586), a gill of 
cream, and two ounces of small dice pieces of shrimps; season with cayenne pepper and serve. 


(541), SHRIMP AND GRAB SAUCE (Sauce aux Crevettes et aux Crabes), 


Pour into a flat saucepan about one pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), let it reduce, and incor- 
porate into it six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence (No. 392) and the same quantity of raw 
cream. When the sauce is very creamy, take it off the fire, and whisk into it gradually with 
a wire whip three ounces of fresh butter, and at the very last moment two ounces of shrimp 
butter (No. 586). Season and serve it in a separate sauce-boat with the shrimp tails, cut up into 
small pieces if they are large, but if small, leave them whole. Add the same quantity of crab meat 
cut the same size. 


(542), SICILIAN SAUCE (Sauce Sicilienne), 


Pour two gills of Marsala wine into a saucepan, adding to it one ounce of truffles and two 
ounces of mushrooms, both chopped ; also two shallots, chopped, blanched and lightly fried in an 
ounce of butter; and also one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a clove of crushed and chopped 
garlic, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and the same of thyme, pepper and some 
grated nutmeg. Let all these simmer and reduce on a slow fire, then remove the parsley, and add 


four gills of allemande (No. 407), and two of game (No. 389), or chicken essence (No. 387), the juice — 


of half a lemon, the same quantity of orange, besides the peel of the latter finely cut up and ene 
and a coffeespoonful of powdered sugar. 


(543), SOUBISE SAUCE (Sauce Soubise), 


Cut off the stalks and roots from twelve onions after having divided them in two, throw them 
into boiling salted water for afew minutes, then drain, refresh, and drain them again. Heat a half 
a pound of butter in a saucepan, add to it the onions and fry them without coloring until well 
done, then pour in a pint of velouté (No. 415) and half a pint of stock (No.422), some peppercorns 
and grated nutmeg. When the onions are sufficiently cooked, press them forcibly through a 
tammy (No. 170)’and ‘return the sauce to the saucepan on the fire, and add to it six gills of fresh 
cream; season properly,and incorporate in at the last moment a small piece of fresh butter. 











SAUCES. 31% 


(544), SOUR SAUCE (Sauce Aigrelette), 


Put into a saucepan one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) with one ounce of meat glaze (No. 
401), some white pepper and nutmeg; beat the sauce well and stir in one gill of lemon juice, the 
same quantity of gooseberries or verjuice, also two ounces of fresh butter; strain through a tammy 
and serve. 


(545) SOYA SAUCE (Sauce Soya). 


Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414) with two gills of essence of either 
chicken, game or fish, and when the sauce is of a sufficient consistency, add to it two tablespoon- 
fuls of soya sauce, and two ounces of fresh butter; beat in slowly with a whip. 


(546), PRINTANIFRE SAUCE (Sauce & la Printanidre), 


Pick and wash half an ounce of chervil, half an ounce of chives, a quarter of an ounce of 
tarragon, and a quarter of an ounce of burnet. Throw these herbs into boiling salted water, 
to blanch for two minutes in an untinned copper vessel, drain, refresh, and drain once more to 
press out all the water; pound and add four ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of good vinegar and 
sufficient spinach green to color nicely; press this butter through a fine sieve and when prepared to. 
use it, add it to a pint of hot allemande sauce (No. 407); season to taste and serve. 


(547), SUPREME SAUCE (Sauce Supréme), 


Remove the breasts from five chickens, break up the carcasses and second joints. Cut two 
pounds of kernel of veal into large squares, and cook them with the chicken bones, in half a pound 
of butter without allowing them to color, then moisten with seven quarts of velouté stock (No. 422); 
let boil, skim well, and season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley garnished with basil and 
bay leaf, and continue to boil for two hours, being careful to skim off the top when necessary; then 
strain the whole through a fine sieve. Place a saucepan on a slow fire, containing one quarter of 
a pound of butter and as much flour; when cooked without coloring, moisten it with one and a 
half quarts of the above stock, and let it boil on one side of the stove only, so as to be able to skim 
it properly, now add a quarter of a bottleful of Sauterne wine, cook again, and despumate for two 
hours; strain the sauce through a tammy, and reduce with one pint of cream, and just when ready 
to serve, beat in apiece of fresh butter. 


(548), TARRAGON SAUCE (Sauce a |’Estragon), 


Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415), or espagnole (No. 414) with half a pint of chicken 
essence (No. 387). Infuse a pinch of tarragon leaves in a gill of chicken essence, and add this. 
infusion to the velouté or espagnole; strain all through a tammy, and just when serving throw in 
a tablespoonful of tarragon leaves cut in lozenges, and blanched in boiling water in an untinned 
copper pan. 


(549), TOMATO SAUCE (Sauce aux Tomates), 


Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan, with half a pound of carrots, half a pound 
of onions, half a pound of bacon or unsmoked ham, all cut in quarter inch squares, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and four cloves; when fried colorless, add eight pounds. 
of tomatoes cut in two and well pressed; season with salt and mignonette, and moisten with a 
quart of moistening (No. 189), then cook it all slowly for forty minutes. Make a blond roux (No. 
163) with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound of flour; dilute it with one 
quart of white stock (No. 422), and the tomatoes; then strain the whole through a fine sieve or 
tammy (No. 159), let it boil again, despumate the surface, and reduce it until it becomes the 
consistency of a sauce. 


(550), TOMATO SAUCE ANDALOUSE, A LA CONDE, A LA PARISIENNE (Sauce aux Tomates 


4 Andalouse, & la Condé, & la Parisienne), 


Wash and cut in halves, four pounds of tomatoes, press them well to extract all their juice 
and seeds, then put the pulps into a saucepan with four ounces of minced onions, three bay leaves 
and as much thyme, four ounces of green peppers finely shredded, two ounces of mushroom par- 
ings, one clove of garlic, four ounces of ham, one pinch of saffron leaves, one small coffeespoon- 
ful of mignonette and one pint of espagnole (No. 414); let the whole cook for twenty minutes; 
then strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159), and stir into it at the last moment two ounces of 


fresh butter. 


318 | THE EPICUREAN. 


A la Condé.—Fry eight ounces of minced onions in two ounces of butter, add four pounds of a 
very ripe tomatoes cut in halves, and the juice and seeds extracted, three bay leaves and as much 


thyme; also some cayenne pepper. Let the whole cook on a slow fire, then drain and strain 


through a sieve, return the sauce to the saucepan, adding one pint of espagnole (No. 414), reduce ¢ a 


it to a proper consistency, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) just before 
serving. 

Parisienne.—Have in a saucepan two ounces of chopped mushrooms with a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley, a small crushed clove of garlic and two shallots, both finely minced, two ounces 
of bacon cut in dice, three bay leaves, the same quantity of thyme, a teaspoonful of whole 
peppers, salt, and four pounds of tomatoes, cut in halves, and their juice and seeds well extracted; 
also one pint of moistening (No. 189). Let this all cook for twenty minutes, drain and strain 
through a sieve, add to the purée one pint of velouté (No. 415), one pint of onion purée 
(No. 728), four tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) and two ounces of fine butter. Before 
serving be assured that the sauce is seasoned properly. 


(551), TRUFFLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Truffes), 


Moisten one pound of chicken parings with three pints of velouté stock (No. 422) and a quarter 
of a hottleful of white wine; add to it a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and as much 
thyme, a quarter of a pound of minced carrots, four ounces of onions, one branch of celery and one 
coffeespoonful of whole peppers ; let it all simmer for two hours, then strain through a sieve and 
reduce the sauce to half, skimming it well in the meanwhile ; now add one quart of allemande 
sauce (No. 407), and reduce again with a quarter of a bottleful of white wine. Strain the whole 
through a tammy, and just when serving incorporate into the sauce four ounces of fresh butter 
and three ounces of peeled and minced truffles. 


(552) TURTLE SAUCE, FAT AND LEAN (Sauce Tortue Grasse et Maigre), 


Fat.—Pour into a saucepan three gills of dry Madeira wine, add two ounces of minced, lean 
ham, one pinch of mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, the same quantity of 
thyme and basil, two small green peppers, one chopped shallot, one ounce of truffles and two of 
mushrooms chopped separately. Let all these ingredients simmer and reduce on a low fire adding 
to them four gills of espagnole (No. 414), two gills of concentrated veal blond (No. 423), two gills 
of tomatoes (No. 730), and add two more gills of Madeira wine; strain the sauce through a tammy 
and beat in when ready to serve two ounces of fresh butter. : 

Lean.—Cut into slices half a pound each of carp, eels and pike; put them into a saucepan with 
a quarter of a bottle of white wine, one quart of water, one clove of garlic, four ounces of onions cut 
in four, two ounces of mushroom parings, a bunch of parsley containing basil, marjoram, thyme 
and bay leaf, some mace, mignonette and a pinch of cayenne. Let simmer and reduce the stock to 
half on a very slow fire, then strain it forcibly through a tammy, return it to the fire and add one 
pint of espagnole (No. 414), and one gill of tomato purée (No. 730); reduce once more, pour in a 
quarter of a bottleful of champagne, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and when ready to use incor- 
porate into the sauce two ounces of lobster butter (No. 580). 


(553), LA VALLIERE SAUCE (Sauce & la La Vallitre) 


Reduce one quart of velouté (No. 415) with one quart of veal blond (No. 423), and the broth 
obtained from cooking eight ounces of mushrooms, add one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) 
and thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks diluted in half a gill of cream and two ounces of fresh 
butter. Strain through a tammy and add half a pound of channeled mushrooms (No. 118). 


(554), VALOIS SAUCE (auce a la Valois), 


Boil two gills of white wine with one gill of vinegar and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
shallots, let the liquid reduce thoroughly, then remove it from the fire, let partly cool and stir in 
six egg-yolks, beat them up with an egg-beater and finish the sauce with four ounces of fine fresh 
butter slowly incorporated; strain and after returning it to the saucepan stir into it two ounces 
more of butter and mix in one spoonful of chopped parsley, or replace half the parsley by chopped 
tarragon leaves if preferred. 








SAUCES. 319 


(555), VENETIAN SAUCE (Sauce & la Vénitienne), 


Have ready in a steamer or bain-marie saucepan one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415), and just 
when about serving add to it one gill of chicken (No. 398) or fish glaze (No. 399), some salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of good vinegar; thicken the sauce with egg-yolks and cream, 
then add two ounces of fresh butter, and a coffeespoonful of fresh parsley, also a pinch of finely 
shredded tarragon leaves. 


(556), VENISON SAUCE (Sauce Venaison), 


Dilute in a saucepan five gills of poivrade sauce (No. 522), and four ounces of currant jelly 
with half a bottleful of Burgundy wine, adding two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and the same 
quantity of sugar, also the pulp of a lemon; reduce for a few minutes, then strain through 
a tammy. 


(557). VICTORIA SAUCE (Sauce & la Victoria), 


Cover a saucepan containing one tablespoonful of finely chopped shallots and the juice of two 
lemons; let boil together, then add two ounces of well chopped mushrooms and boil again until 
these have evaporated all their moisture, then put in two gills of melted meat glaze. When 
ready to serve finish the sauce by mixing in a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of | 
vinegar, the same of soya sauce (No. 545), a pinch of tarragon leaves and one of parsley, besides 
two tablespoonsfuls of chopped up pickles. 


(558), VIENNESE SAUCE (Sauce & la Viennoise), 


This sauce is prepared with one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407), seasoned with nutmeg, red 
pepper, and the juice of /a lemon; finish it with four ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573), and 
just before serving, throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 


(559), VILLARS SAUCE (Sauce a la Villars), 


Into a pint of chicken essence (No. 387) add two tablespoonfuls of rice flour diluted in a gill 
of cold milk, also some salt, pepper and lemon juice, two ounces of cooked chicken cut in small 
squares and four chopped hard-boiled egg-yolks; work the sauce steadily, reduce properly, and 
add one gill of double cream, and two ounces of fresh butter. 


(560), VILLEROI SAUCE (Sauce 4 la Villeroi), 


Put into a sautoire with some butter two ounces of lean ham; fry for a few minutes, then drain 
off the butter and moisten the ham with one gill of white wine; reduce it until dry, then pour ina 
pint of velouté (No. 415) and season the sauce with mignonette and nutmeg; reduce again and 
then thicken with four egg-yolks diluted in-a~gill of cream; let the sauce boil up once or twice 
while stirring it at the bottom of the sautoire with a reducing spatula, then strain it through a 
tammy (No. 159), and mix in with it some chopped and drained mushrooms, also a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley or fine herbs. This sauce should be more consistent than allemande sauce and 
it is used only when beginning to cool, to coat cold meats. It can also be soubised by adding 
to it a few tablespoonfuls of soubise sauce (No. 543). 


(561), WESTPHALIAN SAUCE (Sauce Westphalienne). 

Put three gills of white wine and half a pound of minced, lean Westphalia ham into a sauce- 
pan with a bunch of parsley garnished with one bay leaf and the same quantity of thyme, some 
mignonette, salt and nutmeg. Moisten the whole with two gills of veal blond stock (No. 423), 
then reduce and finish with four gills of espagnole (No. 414), reduce again to the proper con- 
sistency, then strain through a tammy, and just when ready to serve stir in two ounces of butter 
and the juice of a lemon; pass throngh a tammy and serve. 


(562), WHITE SAUCE; WHITE ENGLISH SAUCE AND WHITE SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER 
(Sauce Blanche, Anglaise et Sauce Blanche sans Beurre), 
Melt some butter in a saucepan and beat it with the same weight of flour; 
pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten with water. Setit on the fire and stir constantly until it begins 
to bubble, then thicken it just before serving with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, adding the 
juice of a lemon; strain the sauce through a tammy and serve. 


season with salt, 


320 THE EPICUREAN. 





White Sauce, English Style.—Infuse in a pint of boiling cream, the peel of one lemon, a cof 
feespoonful of white pepper corns, some thyme and a bay leaf, leaving them in for half an hour. 
Melt three ounces of butter, and stir in it two ounces of flour, fried without coloring, add the pre- . 
pared infusion, straining it first through a fine sieve, also the juice of alemon. Set the saucepan: 
on the fire, and stir well till it boils, then leave it for a few minutes and incorporate into it 
three ounces of fine butter. 

White Sauce, Without Butter.—Break into a saucepan four raw egg-yolks, add to them one 
gill of olive oil, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Heat some water in a saucepan larger than the one con- 
taining the eggs and oil, set the smaller into the larger one, and as soon as the water is sufficiently 
hot.that the hand cannot bear the heat then begin to stir it so as to mix the eggs with the oil; as 
quickly as the sauce is well thickened, take it from the saucepan and serve it at once, adding the 
juice of a lemon. This sauce should only be tepid, for if a degree warmer the egg-yolks coagu- 
late and the oil separates from them. This sauce is excellent for artichokes and plain boiled aspar- 
agus, 


(563), YORK SAUCE (Sauce d’York), 


Made by reducing some vinegar with shallots, cut in eighth of an inch squares, and adding 
to it two or three spoonfuls of white bread-crumbs lightly fried in butter and some good gravy. 
Let the sauce cook for ten minutes on the side of the range, season to taste, and finish with some 
chopped parsley and lemon juice. 


(564), ZUOHETTE SAUCE (Sauce & la Zuchette), 


Reduce some brown espagnole sauce with the liquid part of drained tomatoes, add some dry 
mushrooms that have been previously soaked, moisten from time to time with a little veal blond 
stock (No. 423). Pare some cucumbers in either clove of garlic or olive shape, blanch and cook 
these in white broth having just sufficient to moisten, so that when the cucumbers are done the 
stock will be thoroughly reduced. Strain the sauce through a tammy, put in the cucumbers 
and serve. 





HOT BUTTERS, 





(565), BLACK BUTTER (Beurre Noir), 


This butter is used for eggs, brains or fish. Put four ounces of butter in an omelet pan over 
a slow fire, and when it falls after raising, skim it off, and set it :gain on the fire; as soon as 
it is black, but not burned, season it with salt and mignonette. Strain it through a fine strainer 
over the eggs, ete. Throw a dash of vinegar in a.hot pan, and pour it over the eggs through a. 
fine strainer, 


- (666), MELTED BUTTER (Beurre Fondu). 


Set four ounces of butter in a saucepan,.season it with salt, pepper, mignonette, and the juice 
of a lemon; let it-melt sufficiently to liquify it, or else melt it thoroughly, and let it settle, pouring 
off the top carefully, refraining from disturbing the sediment at the bottom. 


(567), HAZEL-NUT BUTTER (Beurre Noisette), 


Place four ounces of butter in a pan on the fire, and as soon as the froth falls, skim it care- 
fully, and leave it on the fire until it begins to brown slightly, then let it settle and pour off the 
clear part; season with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, and throw this over fish or any other article, 
after straining it through a fine strainer. 


- 


‘a 


SAUCES. 32h 


COLD BUTTERS. 


, (568), ALMOND BUTTER (Beurre d’Amandes), 

Pound in a mortar, one ounce of peeled sweet almonds mixed with a few bitter ones; add four 
ounces of sugar, and moisten with a little milk, then stir in eight ounces of fresh butter, and beat: 
it all well together, then press the whole through a fine sieve. 


(569). ANCHOVY BUTTER (Beurre d’Anchois), 


Wash an ounce of anchovies, wipe them well to remove the silver scales covering them, ther 
pound them thoroughly, adding a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little cayenne pepper. Rub 
through a sieve and use when needed. 


(570), OAMBRIDGE BUTTER (Beurre Cambridge.) 

Lay in a mortar and pound well, six hard boiled egg-yolks. with four well cleansed anchovies 
and a spoonful of chopped capers, also some tarragon and chives; when the whole is reduced to a 
paste, add to it one spoonful of English mustard, and the same quantity of French mustard, some 
salt, pepper, and vinegar, and one pound of fresh butter. Rub the compound through a sieve, and 
then mix in with it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 


(571). CAYENNE, OHILI, PAPRIKA AND SWEET SPANISH PEPPER BUTTER (Beurre de 
Cayenne, Chili, Paprika, Piments doux d’Espagne). 
Mix into half a pound of fresh butter, either a full teaspoonful of cayenne pepper or Chilf 
pepper, and two teaspoonfuls Hungary paprika pepper; add to it some salt, lemon juice 
and sweet Spanish pimentos. 


(572) CRAB BUTTER (Beurre de Orabes), 


Wash well some crab coral, then pound it in a mortar, adding double its quantity of butter, a. 
dash of cayenne pepper and the juice of two lemons; press it through a sieve. 


(573). ORAWFISH BUTTER (Beurre d'Ecrevisses), 


Have one pound of very red crawfish shells, pound them with two pounds of butter and whem 
they are reduced to a paste, then put it into a saucepan and cook slowly until the butter be thor- 
oughly clarified; strain it through a piece of muslin into a bowl, and as soon as the greatest heat has. 
passed off, beat it up with a spoon till it becomes cold. If needed to be colored a deeper red, add: 
a little orchanet melted in a little butter, or else some vegetal carmine. 


(574), FINE HERB BUTTER, COOKED (Beurre aux Fines Herbes Ouites), 


Fry in some butter a few blanched and finely chopped shallots, add to them a few well chopped 
truffles and fresh mushrooms, and let the whole get quite cold, then add to it some fresh butter, 
salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. | 


(575). RAW FINE HERB BUTTER, (Beurre aux Fines Herbes Crues), 


Wash some parsley, chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, chives and water-cress leaves, and then cut 
them up finely. Wipe off a piece of fresh butter in a cloth, and beat it up in a warm basin until 
it becomes slightly creamy, then mix in with it gradually the raw fine herbs; season this butter 
with cayenne, salt and lemon juice. 


(576). GARLIC BUTTER (Beurre d’Ail), 
Blanch one ounce of garlic in plenty of water, drain and pound it well, adding half a pound 
of butter and seasoning with salt and red pepper. 


(577), BUTTER WITH GREEN GOOSEBERRIES (Beurre aux Groseilles 4 Maquereau), 


Haye a pound of well picked green gooseberries; pound them well and then add to them one 
pound of fresh butter, pound again together and season with salt, pepper and fine herbs. 


322 THE EPICUREAN. 





(578), HORSERADISH BUTTER (Beurre de Raifort), 


Pound four ounces of scraped horseradish with eight ounces of butter, some salt and red 
pepper; then rub it through a sieve. If this butter be needed to add to a sauce, only put it in at 
the last moment. Horseradish should not be allowed to boil; neither should it be prepared too 
long in advance. 


(579) KNEADED BUTTER (Beurre Manié), ? ft 


Kneaded butter is frequently used at the last moment to thicken sauces and cooked small 
vegetables. In order to prepare this auxillary, it is necessary to lay a piece of butter on a plate or 
in a small vessel, and incorporate into it slowly with a wooden spoon, a sufficient quantity of flour 
to form a smooth paste, but not too consistent, so that it can easily be dissolved by the heat. 


(580). LOBSTER AND SPINY LOBSTER CORAL BUTTER (Beurre au Corail de Homard ou de 
Langouste), 


Lobster Butter.—Pound one pound of very red spiny lobster shells with two pounds of butter 
until they are reduced to a paste; put this into a saucepan till the butter be cooked and clarified, 
then strain it through a piece of muslin into a bowl. As soon as the butter has thrown off its 
first heat, begin beating it with a spoon till it gets cold, and if needed to be dyed a deeper red 
shade, then add to it a little orchanet, melted in a small quantity of butter, or clear vegetal carmine. - 

Coral Butter.—Take some lobster eggs, also the red parts found in the interior of the 
body and crush them very finely in a mortar; mix in a piece of fresh butter four times the volume 
of the eggs; pass the whole through a Venice sieve and serve. 


(581). MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER (Beurre Maitre d’Hétel), 


Mix in with some fresh butter, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. 


(582) MONTPELLIER BUTTER (Beurre Montpellier), 


Pick, wash, and blanch one pound of chervil, chives, tarragon, pimpernel, and water-cress; 
drain and refresh them, then press them well to extract all the water, and pound them in a mortar 
with six hard boiled egg-yolks, six well washed anchovies, five ounces of pickled gherkins, five 
ounces of dry capers, and add salt, pepper, and a piece of garlic the size of a pea; pound all 
together and rub the whole through a fine sieve, and when it has all passed, put two pounds of 
butter into the mortar, add the strained ravigote, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and one of tarragon vine- 
gar; and mix it all thoroughly together. Montpellier butter should be a pretty, light green color. 





(583), RAVIGOTE OR GREEN BUTTER (Beurre & la Ravigote ou Beurre Vert), 

Made with one ounce of tarragon, two ounces of chervil, one ounce of chives, well washed, half 
an ounce of blanched parsley leaves, and one ounce of chopped and blanched shallot: pound all 
these herbs with half a pound of butter, and color it with some spinach green strained through a , 
Sieve. ; 

(584), SAFFRON BUTTER (Beurre de Safran), 4 


; Lay a pinch of saffron on a plate and work it in a nut of butter with a spatula; it is then ready 
to use. 


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(585), SHALLOT BUTTER (Beurre d’Echalotes). 

Peel and mince finely twelve shallots, then pound them, afterward adding half a pound of 
butter; rub the compound through a sieve. ¢ 
(586), SHRIMP BUTTER (Beurre de Crevettes), 


2) . . ° ° . 
Pound one pound of shrimps without removing their skins, also two ounces of lobster coral; 


add to this one pound of fresh butter, some salt, cayenne pepper and the juice of a lemon, then 
press the whole through a sieve. 





SAUCES. . 323 


COLD SAUCES, 


(587), APPLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Pommes), 


Apple Sauce.—Peel a pound of sound apples, suppress the cores and seeds and place them in 
a saucepan with a little water; when cooked drain and press through a sieve; reduce and add a lit- 
tle brown sugar and the juice of two oranges and their finely shredded peels that have been previ- 
ously cooked in salted water. 


(588), CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH A LA SANFORD (Wauce Chantilly 
aux Pommes et au Raifort & la Sanford), 


Core a pound of sour apples, lay them in a saucepan with a little water; when done drain 
out and press through a very fine sieve. Add to the pulp one ounce of powdered sugar and two 
ounces of grated horseradish; stir well and beat in lightly the value of one pint of well-drained 
whipped cream. Serve this sauce separately with young ducks or goslings. 


(589), APPLE SAUCE, ENGLISH STYLE, (Sauce aux Pommes 4 l'Anglaise), 


Cut up one pound of peeled apples, small, cook them with a little water and a grain of salt; 
when dry mix in four spoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish; remove from the fire at once, and 
press through a sieve; mix into the pulp a spoonful of sugar and the juice of two oranges. Heat 
up without boiling, and remove as soon as the sugar is dissolved. This sauce can be served with 
all salted and smoked meats. 


(590). APPLE SAUCE FOR GOURMETS, APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH AND ORANGE 
JUICE (Sauce aux Pommes des Gourmets, Sauce aux Pommes au Raifort et jus d’Orange), 


Gourmets.—Take one pound of peeled apples, remove the seeds and put them in a saucepan 
with a little water, when cooked, drain and strain through a sieve, reduce and add a little brown 
sugar, the juice of two oranges and their peels finely cut up and boiled in salted water. 

With Horseradish and Orange Juice.—The same preparation as for apple sauce (No. 587), 
adding the juice of two oranges and six tablespoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish. 


(591), SWEDISH APPLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Pommes Suédoise). 


Cut five or six apples into four quarters, peel and cook them in a little white wine, reduce all 
of their moisture, then press them through a sieve. Place this purée in a bowl and mix in with it 
about an equal quantity of finely chopped horseradish, thicken this preparation with a few spoon- 
fuls of mayonnaise (No. 606). This sauce is excellent for roast geese or roast pork, as well as for 


cold meats. 


(592). BOAR SAUCE (Sauce Sanglier), 


Grate half a pound of fresh horseradish, then lay it in a bowl with four ounces of cranberry 
jelly (No. 598), adding a spoonful of mustard, the well chopped peel of one lemon and one 
orange, two ounces of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of sweet oil, mix all the ingredients 


well together and serve. 


(593), CHAUDFROID, BECHAMEL CREAM SAUCE, WITH TOMATO PUREE AND WITH 
FEOULA (Sauces Chaudfroid, Béchamel & la Créme, Béchamel a la Purée de Tomates et a 
la Fécule), 

Béchamel Cream Chaudfroid.—Is made with béchamel reduced with fowl or fish essence well 
despumated, and half its quantity of white chicken or fish jelly added. 

Béchamel Tomato Purée Chaudfroid.—Is a chaudfroid prepared the same as for the cream, 
adding to it a quarter of its quantity of red tomato purée strained through a very fine sieve. 


324 THE EPICUREAN. 


With Fecula.—Boil a quart and a half of chicken broth with six gelatine leaves and when welt 


dissolved thicken with four ounces of fecula previously dilutedin cold water. Mix with this chaud- _ | 
froid half a pint of cream, strain it through a tammy (No. 159), stir up well and dip into this. | a 


chaudfroid once or several times the whole pieces of meat required to be glazed. 


(594), OHAUDFROID BROWN AND GAME (Chaudfroid Brun et Ohaudfroid de Gibier), 


Put into a saucepan, one pint of very clear well-colored espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduce it: 
with some veal blond (No. 423), and dilute with half its quantity of aspic jelly (No. 103). Boil 
up the sauce and remove it at once to the side of the fire, in order to despumate it for ten minutes, 
skimming it well in the meantime; then take it off entirely and pass through a tammy. Before: — 
using try a little to find out whether it coats properly; if not strong enough add some gelatine. _ 


Game Chaudfroid.—Add one pint of game essence (No. 389) to half a pint of sauterne wine, 
moisten with game stock (No. 195), and add one quart of well-reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414),. 
despumate and stir in one pint of jelly. The white wine may be replaced by Madeira. 


(595). CHAUDFROID GREEN OR RAVIGOTE (Chaudfroid Vert ou Chaudfroid Ravigote). 


-Blanch in boiling and salted. water, one handful. of. chervil, parsley, tarragon and pimpernel;. 
drain and pound these with a few capers; : press through a sieve and mix this purée with a velouté- 
sauce (No. 415), then reduce and despumate, adding some chicken stock (No. 195); reduce once 
more, and now add the juice of one lemon and some spinach green, also half its quantity of 
either meat, chicken, or game jelly. 


(596), GHAUDFROID WHITE WITH VELOUTE AND BLOND CHAUDFROID (Chaudfroid Blane 
au Velouté et Chaudfroid Blond), 


Pour into a saucepan, one pint of velouté (No. 415) (for lean, use fish velouté); reduce it with — 
half a pint of chicken broth (No. 188), or veal stock (No. 423), then add one pint of aspic jelly 
(No. 103); boil up this sauce, remove it to the side of the fire to be able to despumate for fifteen. 
minutes, skimming it carefully in the meanwhile, then take it off the fire, strain, and try a little 
before using, to see whether it is sufficiently thick to cover the meats. For blond chaudfroid, add. 
chicken glaze (No. 398) to white velouté (No. 415). 


Thickened with Egg-yolks & Vv Allemande.—Velouté (No. 415) reduced with essence of chicken. 
(No. 387) well despumated, and thickened with egg-yolks, mixed with half as much melted white 
jelly. 

Blond Chaudfroid.—Is made with half brown and half white chaudfroid. 


(597). CHICKEN AND GAME SAUCE (Sauce pour Volaille et Gibier), 


This sauce is prepared with some sweet oil, the juice of a lemon, chicken or game gravy, 
chopped fine herbs, garlic, shallots, salt and pepper. 


(598), CRANBERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Caneberges). 


Wash five pounds of cranberries, lay them in an untinned saucepan on the fire, with one quart. 
of water, let cook slowly while stirring frequently, and when they are done add to them five pounds. 
of sugar; pass them through a coarse colander, put in jars and set the jelly away in a cool closet. 


(599), CUMBERLAND SAUCE (Sauce & la Cumberland). 


Cook in salted water the finely shreded peels of two oranges and two lemons, and when they are 
tender put them into a vessel with one tablespoonful of mustard, a pinch of ground ginger, a pinch 
of cayenne pepper, a gill of Madeira wine, the juice of one orange and one lemon, some salt, and: 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and mix in with these ingredients half a pound of currant jelly. 


(600). CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SAUCE WITH SUGAR (Sauce aux Groseilles Blanches ou 
Vertes au Sucre), 


Pick one pound of white currants from their stalks, or pick off the stems from one pound of 
gooseberries; blanch either one or the other, and then drain them on a sieve. Have cooked half a 
pound of sugar to the small erack, lay in the currants, let it boil up once, and then pour it into 
glasses to serve cold with meats, game or poultry. 





SAUCES. 825 


(601), CURRANT SAUCE WITH ORANGE (Sauce aux Groseilles & l'Orange). 


This is prepared with currant jelly diluted with port wine; add to it the rind of one orange 
grated on sugar and pressed through a sieve. Peel another orange and after shredding the peel 
very finely cook it in water, drain and then add it to the sauce, with the juice of the two oranges. 


(602), FINE HERBS SAUCE AND SHALLOTS WITH OIL (Sauce aux Fines Herbes, et aux 
Echalotes & l'Huile). 


This sauce is ‘prepared with chervil, parsley, chives, and small squares of blanched shallots, 
‘also some tarragon leaves. Dilute a little mustard in oil and vinegar, season well, and stir in the 
above chopped fine herbs. Shallots with fine herbs and oil is made by mixing in with fine herbs, 
and oil is made by mixing in with one gill of vinegar, some salt, pepper, and two gills of sweet oil, 
chopped and blanched shallots, chopped tarragon and English mustard. 


(603), GREEN SAUCE (Sauce Verte), 


Wash some parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon, and burnet; plunge them into boiling water 
in a copper vessel, and blanch them for three minutes; drain, press out all the liquid, and then 
pound the herbs in a small mortar with a few chives added; press them through a sieve, and 
put into the same mortar a few hard boiled egg-yolks and some anchovy fillets; pound them also, 
and stir in gradually the green purée; dilute the preparation with some oil, vinegar and mustard, 
and finish the sauce with a spoonful of finely chopped pickled gherkins. 


(604), GREEN SPANISH SAUCE (Sauce Espagnole Verte), 


Pound to a paste one ounce of chervil and one ounce of parsley; add to it four ounces of 
bread-crumbs soaked in water and then squeezed out, six anchovy fillets, two ounces of chopped 
pickled gherkins, two ounces of capers, and one small chopped up onion; pound well the whole 
and then rub it through a sieve intoa bowl, beat it well with some sweet oil, the same as for a 
mayonnaise, adding salt, pepper, and spinach green to color; soften the sauce with a little water. 


(605), HORSERADISH AND CREAM SAUCE, AND WITH OIL Sauce Raifort & la Oréme, et a 
l’Huile). 


Punt into a bowl a quarter of a pound of grated horseradish with an equal quantity of fresh 
bread-crumbs, a little sugar, some salt, the juice of two lemons, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a 
little white stock (No. 422), also adding a pint of cream. This sauce is used with cold meats. 

- With Oil.—Cut some slices of lemon after suppressing the yellow and white rind; put them 
into a vessel with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, some chopped parsley, tarragon, grated horseradish 
and a little ground pepper; mix all well together. Broiled fish may be served with this sauce. 


(606). MAYONNAISE SAUCE (Sauce Mayonnaise). 


In order to obtain a quick and certain mayonnaise sauce, it must be worked simply with a 
small wire whisk. Put five egg-yolks into a bowl suppressing every particle of the white, 
add some salt, white or red pepper, and ground mustard; after these are thoroughly mixed pour 
in slowly a quart of sweet oil and one gill of vinegar, alternating them without once stopping to 
work vigorously. In a few minutes the sauce becomes voluminous, consistent, smooth and firm. 


(607). MAYONNAISE SAUCE A LA BAYONNAISE (Sauce Mayonnaise & la Bayonnaise), 


Lay five egg-yolks in a bowl with a quarter of a gill of water, half an ounce of salt, a little 
pepper and a little cayenne, then beat it up and incorporate slowly into it two and one-half pints 
of oil and one gill of vinegar, stirring it unceasingly, and when the sauce thickens add to it more 
vinegar, and continue pouring in the oil and vinegar till they are both consumed. It must be of 
a high consistency, of a white color, and of a good flavor; it is preferable to use a wire whisk 
in place of a wooden spoon for this purpose. Add to this mayonnaise half a pound of lean Bay- 
Onne ham, cut in squares, some powdered Spanish peppers, and some chopped parsley. 


326 THE EPICUREAN. 


(608). MAYONNAISE CARDINAL (Sauce Mayonnaise Cardinal), 

Pound one ounce of lobster coral with a little vegetal carmine, a teaspoonful of English 
mustard, some salt, cayenne pepper, and the juice of two lemons; pass all this through a fine 
sieve, and mix in with it slowly a pint of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606); this sauce should be a 
nice light red color. 


(609). MAYONNAISE FIGARO (Sauce Mayonnaise Figaro), - 
Strain some cooked tomatoes through a very fine sieve, then let them drain well for several 
hours in a napkin, and mix this pulp in slowly with very firm mayonnaise sauce (No. 606); add 
to it some powdered cayenne, very finely chopped, and blanched shallots and anchovy essence. 


(610), MAYONNAISE SAUCE PROVENGAL WITH SWEET PEPPERS (Sauce Mayonnaise Pro- 


vengale aux Poivrons doux), 


Mash four medium sized cloves of garlic with two tablespoonfuls of English mustard, two 
cooked egg-yolks, two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and all the liquid pressed out;. 
beat the whole with two raw egg yolks, half a coffeespoonful of pepper, some salt and a teaspoon- 
ful of sweet Spanish peppers; incorporate in a pint of oil, dropping it in slowly, and a few spoon- 
fuls of tarragon vinegar, also a little water. Just when serving mix in the sweet Spanish peppers, 
previously broiled so their skin can be removed, then cut them up in squares. The sweet peppers 
can be replaced by those that come in cans, which are very well prepared. 


(611), MAYONNAISE SAUCE WITH ARROWROOT (Sauce Mayonnaise & l’Arrowroot), 


In case any difficulty be found to raise a mayonnaise either on account of defective oil, or on 
account of the weather, the following manner will explain how always to obtain a good result: 
Dilute in cold water ina small saucepan, a heaping spoonful of arrowroot or simply fecula; be 
careful there are no lumps in it, then heat it over a slow fire, stirring well with a spoon, until it 
forms a smooth paste, having it hard, in preference to soft. As soon as this is done, pour 
it into a vessel, and beat it with a spoon until it loses its greatest heat, then mix in a pinch of salt, 
a little red pepper, and a pinch of ground mustard, and three or four raw egg-yolks. Work well 
the preparation while pouring in very slowly, two or three gills of good sweet oil, alternating it. 
with a dash of vinegar. 


(612), MAYONNAISE SAUCE, GREEN WITH FINE HERBS, PRINTANIERE, AND RAVIGOTE 
(Sauce Mayonnaise Verte aux Fines Herbes Printaniére et Ravigote), 


Pick and wash a handful of chervil, tarragon, chives, burnet and garden water-cress.. 
Blanch them in boiling, salted water for five minutes, then drain, refresh and press well to extract: 
all the water. Pound this thoroughly, adding the juice of one lemon and some ground mustard. 
Mix this ravigote into a pint of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and color it a fine pistache green with 
some spinach green. 


(613), MAYONNAISE SAUCE WITH JELLY et JELLIED (Sauce Mayonnaise a la Gelée et 
ollée), 

In order to make this mayonnaise set a thin tin salad bowl on chopped ice containing one pint of 
white jelly (No. 103), add to it a pint of oil, agillof tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and some white or 
red pepper. Stir the mixture well with an egg-beater being careful to remove all that adheres to 
the sides, then add little by little the juice of one lemon; also some chopped and blanched chervil 
may be advantageously added to the sauce. 


Mayonnaise Sauce Jellied.—Use an ordinary mayonnaise (No. 606) with oil, pouring into it slowly 
some cold liquid jelly (No. 103). A jellied mayonnaise may also be prepared by whipping the jelly 
on ice and incorporating into it at the same time some oil and vinegar, exactly the same as for the 
egg mayonnaise. 


(614), MAYONNAISE SAUCE WITH FRUIT JELLY (Sauce Mayonnaise & la Gelée de Fruits), 
Break four raw egg-yolks into a vessel; mix in with them two tablespoonfuls of water, salt and 
a little white and red pepper, stir well and incorporate slowly, especially at first, one quart of sweet 
oil and eight spoonfuls of vinegar at different intervals. To make the fruit jelly mayonnaise, add 
for one pint of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), one spoonful of English mustard, and a quarter 
of a pound either of currant, grape, apple, quince or cranberry jelly. 





SOs Set ae 397 


(615). MAYONNAISE MOUSSELINE SAUCE Gauce Mayonnaise Mousseline), 


Made with a jelly mayonnaise the same as explained in No. 613, leaving out the chervil, and 
stirring in the same quantity of unsweetened whipped cream, well drained and very firm. An 
ordinary mayonnaise without being jellied can also be used. 


(616). MINT SAUCE (Sauce & la Menthe), 


Put into a sauce-boat half a glassful of good vinegar, a strong pinch of powdered sugar, a 
little cayenne pepper, and two heavy pinches of finely chopped fresh mint leaves; let them infuse 
for half an hour. 

Another way.—Mix in a saucepan one gill of good vinegar with the same quantity of water; 
add to it two spoonfuls of powdered or brown sugar; boil it up once, and then set it away to get 
cold; put in some finely shredded fresh mint leaves. 


(617), ORANGE SAUCE (Sauce & lOrange), 


Have half a pound of currant jelly (No. 3670), two gills of port wine, the juice of three oranges 
and of two lemons, and the peel of two oranges grated into sugar. Dissolve the currant jelly 
and the flavored orange sugar with the liquids, add a grain of salt, and a dash of cayenne, then 
strain the sauce; it should be more light than consistent. This sauce is excellent for either cold 
or hot game. 


(618). PEACH OR APPLE MARMALADE (Marmelade de Péches ou de Pommes), 


Peaches.—Peel and remove the stones from one pound of peaches, cook in a little water; 
drain and press through a sieve, sweeten with an ounce of brown sugar. These marmalades are 
for roast meats and poultry. 

Apples.—A pound of peeled apples cooked in a little water, pressed through a sieve and 
sweetened with an ounce of brown sugar. 


(619), PERSILLADE SAUCE (Sauce Persillade), 


Place in a small bowl one tablespoonful of mustard and four pounded hard boiled egg-yolks. 
dilute this gradually with two gills of oil and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, or the juice of four 
lemons ; add to it salt, pepper and mignonette, some parsley leaves, chervil and tarragon, all 
finely chopped, and serve the sauce separately. Chopped hard boiled egg-whites are frequently 
added to this sauce. 


(620). POIVRADE SAUCE (Sauce Poivrade), 


Put into a bowl one gill of espagnole sauce (No. 414), add to it twice its quantity of oil, some 
Chili and tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt; beat the whole together with a whisk and throw in 
a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and some finely chopped blanched shallots. 


(621), POLISH SAUOE (Sauce & la Polonaise), 


Squeeze into a sauce boat the juice of four lemons and of two oranges; add to them a heavy 
pinch of mignonette, two teaspoonfuls of mustard, and six tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar; mix 
well and dilute this preparation sufficiently to have it the consistency of a syrup. 


(622) RAISIN SAUCE (Sauce aux Raisins), 


Pour two gills of good vinegar into a saucepan, add a bunch of parsley, garnished with two 
bay leaves and as much thyme, pepper corns and cloves; reduce the liquid to half; then add four 
gills of good gravy (No. 404). Boil the whole, dissolve a tablespoonful of fecula in two gills of 
cold broth, mix in with the sauce, then boil, skim and add a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins 
and the same quantity of currants, also half a pound of currant jelly (No. 3670), dissolving it 
slowly; let the sauce get cold and serve it up with game. 


(623), RAVIGOTE SAUCE WITH OIL (Gauce Ravigote a |’Huile). 

Pound a handful of cheryil, burnet, tarragon and chives, also a little garlic and shallot; 
add to them a spoonful of béchamel sauce (No. 409), some salt, white and red pepper, ground mus- 
tard and grated horseradish root; pass all through a tammy (No. 159), and mix in with it sufficient 
oil and vinegar to obtain a sauce that will not be too thick. 


B28 THE EPICUREAN. 


(624), REMOULADE SAUCE (Sauce Rémoulade). 


Chop up well one blanched shallot, have a handful of parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon and 
Yournet; pound the whole in a small marble mortar; add four nicely cleaned anchovy fillets, five 
or six hard boiled egg-yolks, rub all the ingredients through a sieve, then mix in three or four raw 
yolks, stir into this preparation one pint of oil, half a gill of vinegar and mustard, the same as for 
mayonnaise (No. 606) and finish the sauce with capers, finely chopped pickled gherkins and a dash 
of cayenne pepper. 


(625). REMOULADE SAUUE, INDIAN STYLE (Sauce Rémoulade, & l'Indienne), 

Pound in a mortar four hard boiled egg-yolks, add to them two raw yolks, one spoonful of 
mustard, salt, pepper and the juice of two lemons, and a quarter of a gill of water in which a few 
saffron leaves have been infused and a quarter of a coffeespoonful of curry; strain all through a 
sieve and put the preparation into a bowl to stir and work in slowly one pint of sweet oil, and half 
a gill of vinegar, adding a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, some parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives 
and two shallots chopped and blanched, besides the hard boiled egg-whites cut into small squares. 


(626). REMOULADE SAUCE VERT-PRE (Sauce Rémoulade Vert-Pré), 


Place in a mortar four hard boiled egg-yolks with two raw yolks, two spoonfuls of mustard, 
salt, pepper and asmack of garlic; pound them well together and then press through a sieve and 
jay the compound in a bowl; work it well, incorporating into it one pint of oil and half a gill of 
vinegar, till it becomes the consistency of a mayonnaise. Cut three shallots in small 
‘squares and blanch them in boiling water, drain and add them to the mayonnaise; chop separately 
a handful of parsley, chervil and half as much tarragon, burnet, water-cress and chives; mix 
‘together all these herbs, and put in three heaping tablespoonfuls to the prepared mayonnaise, coloi 
it a pretty pistache color with spinach green, and throw in when finished two spoonfuls of choppea 
up capers. ) 


(627), REMOULADE SAUCE WITH ANCHOVIES (Sauce Rémoulade aux Anchois), 


Pound four hard boiled egg-yolks; add to them four raw egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of mustard 
zand eight anchovies; rub all through a sieve, and put the mixture into a vessel to work and stir in 
gradually one pint of oil anda half gill of vinegar, season with very little salt and pepper, and 
‘then add three chopped and blanched shallots, some parsley and two ounces of chopped capers. — 


(628), REMOULADE SAUCER WITH FINE HERBS (Sauce Kémoulade aux Fines Herhes), 


Put into a bowl one tablespoonful of mustard, salt, pepper and a raw egg-yolk ; beat this up 
with a wooden spatula and pour very slowly into it from six to eight spoonfuls of oil, also two of 
vinegar and one tablespoonful of Chili vinegar; add finely chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. 


(629), ROSSEBERRY SAUCE (Sauce & la Rosseberry), 


This sauce is made with one tablespoonful of English mustard diluted in a gill of good 
vinegar, adding a coffeespoonful of powdered sugar and two tablespoonfuls of grated fresk 
‘horseradish, then adding some salt and chopped parsley. 


(630). ROUGEMONT SAUCE (Sauce & la Rougemont), 


Procure four ounces of lobster coral or eggs, the creamy parts of the bodies of two lobsters, and 
‘pound these together with six hard boiled egg-yolks, then press the whole through a sieve intoa 
‘bowl; dilute and incorporate into it five gills of oil and half a gill of vinegar, two chopped and 
‘blanched shallots, a dash of cayenne, a tablespoonful of tarragon and chervil, and half as much 
«chopped parsley, as well as one ounce of chopped pickled gherkins. 


(631), TARTAR SAUCE (Sauce Tartare). 


Deposit in a bowl one gill of velouté sauce (No. 415), two tablespoonfuls of mustard, four 
fresh egg-yolks, salt and pepper; stir well together and incorporate into it five gills of oil and half 
a gill of tarragon vinegar, two chopped and blanched shallots, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a 
tablespoonful of tarragon and chervil, also half the quantity of chopped parsley, and an ounce of 
chopped up pickled gherkins. 








SAUCES. | 329 


~ (632), TARTAR SAUCE, ENGLISH STYLE (Gauce Tartare, 4 l’Anglaise), 


Make a mayonnaise with three hard boiled egg-yolks, one gill of velouté, (No. 415) a pinch 
of ground mustard, salt, and sweet oil; stir into it gradually two spoonfuls of English anchovy 
essence; the same of Harvey sauce, and the same of Worcestershire sauce, so as to give the tar- 
tara fine dark color. | 


(633), TOMATO OATSUP (Catsup de Tomates), 


Boil one quart of vinegar in a saucepan, adding a quarter of an ounce of capsicum 
peppers, one ounce of garlic, half an ounce of shallot, all nicely peeled, and half an ounce 
of white ground pepper, also a coffeespoonful of red pepper, and let boil for ten minutes, then 
strain through a fine sieve. Mix in with this vinegar, one and a half pounds of tomatoes, reduce 
all together and then add the juice of three lemons, and salt to taste. Should this sauce be too 
thick, add more vinegar or some water; fill up the bottles, let stand till cold, then put them in 
@ very cool place to use when needed. This sauce is excellent as a relish for cold meats fish, 
oysters, etc. 


(634), VINEGAR SAUCE WITH FINE HERBS (Vinaigrette aux Fines Herbes). 


Chop up finely the following herbs: chives, chervil, tarragon, and parsley; put them into a 
bowl with some salt, pepper, a little cayenne pepper, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and six of olive oil; 
stir all well together and serve. 


(635). VINEGAR SAUCE WITH SHALLOTS AND MUSTARD (Visaigrette aux Echalotes et 
| & la Moutarde). 


Cut a shallot in one-eight inch squares, blanch and drain it. Put one gill of vinegar in a 
bowl, add to it salt and two gills of sweet oil, some mustard, and the blanched shallots. 


(636), ZISKA SAUCE, PARISIAN SAUCE FOR ALL FOODS Gauce Ziska, Sauce Parisienne pour 
tous Mets). 


Put into a bowl two teaspoonfuls of English mustard with a little salt and some sugar; beat 
it all well together, then pour in slowly the value of three gills of sweet oil, and half a gill of good 
vinegar, also a few finely chopped pickled gherkins. 


Parisian Sauce for all Foods.—Put into an earthen vessel, either over hot cinders or in a 
heater for twenty-four hours, two gills of water, two gills of vinegar, one gill of verjuice, two gills 
of white wine, one ounce of ground mustard seeds, half an ounce of black pepper, half a teaspoon- 
ful of ground ginger, half a teaspoonful of mace, a quarter of a teaspoonful of cloves, four ounces 
of salt, a few branches of basil, four bay leaves, two ounces of pounded shallots, one dried bitter 
orange peel, and half a gill of lemon juice. After all these have infused for two days, strain the 
sauce through a fine sieve, put it into bottles, and keep it to use for cold meats. 











GARNISHINGS. 





All the following garnishings may be served for removes by arranging them in clusters and 
making them either larger or smaller, according to the dishes required tobe garnished. For large 
pieces of meat that are intended for removes they must be larger than for those intended for en- 
_trées; in the latter case they should be mixed together instead of being dressed in separate groups. 


(637), “ADMIRAL GARNISHING (Garniture 4 ]’Amiral), 


_ Take eight mussels a la Villeroi (No. 698), sixteen fluted mushrooms (No. 118), half a pound 
of skinned and sautéd shrimps; eight trussed crawfish, the tail shell removed. Parsley leaves to 
be arranged in bunches at both ends. Serve with Normande sauce (No. 509). For an entrée 
mix the mushrooms and shrimps with the sauce, add chopped parsley and oranges around the 
Villeroi mussels and crawfish. 


(638) A LA REINE GARNISHING (Garniture & la Reine), 


Is composed of the white meat cut from a cooked chicken, truffles and mushrooms, all being 
cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares. This garnishing is used with bouchées of the same 
name, or else inside small patties 4 la Reine; in this case mingle the ingredients with a velouté 
sauce (No. 415) thickened with egg-yolks and leave it to get cool before filling the patties. 


(639), ANDALOUSE GARNISHING (Garniture 4 ]’Andalouse), 


Made with eight braised lettuce, eight small Chorisos (smoked sausages) cooked with the 
cabbage, two pounds of cabbage, half a pound of chick peas; one pound of braised ham; one pint 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with two gills of tomatoes (No. 730). Dress the lettuce, 
the cabbage and the chick peas in clusters, range the sausages on one end and the ham on the 
other. 


(640), AQUITAINE GARNISHING (Garniture a l’Aquitaine). 


Have a pound of escaloped duck livers sautéd in butter; half a pound of small button mush- 
rooms cooked with butter, lemon juice, salt and water; a quarter of a pound of small whole truffles, 
cooked in Madeira wine; half a pound of pressed beef palate cut cock’s-comb shape, warmed in 
meat glaze (No. 401) and butter. Infuse a stick of Ceylon cinnamon for ten minutes in a gill of 
Madeira wine; strain this through a napkin into a quart of reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414). 
Dress the garnishing in clusters, pour over half the sauce and serve the remainder in a separate 
sauce-boat. This garnishing can be used for entrées; if this be the case, mix the ingredients 
composing it together in a sautoire with the sauce, and dress them. 


(641), BARLEY A LA REINE GARNISHING (Garniture d’Orge & la Reine) 

Wash in several waters four ounces of pearl barley; cook it in salted water for three hours 
until thoroughly done, and it crushes easily when pressed between the fingers; drain and let it 
simmer ina little good, fresh cream. Just when ready to serve, stir in an equal quantity of 
chicken purée (No. 713) with almond milk (No. 4), and with this garnish some croustades (hol- 
low tartlets made of fine paste (No. 135) rolled out very thin). 


(642), BEEF TONGUE GARNISHING, ANDALUSIAN TOMATO SAUCE (Garniture de Langue de 
Beuf, Sauce Tomates Andalouse), 

Cut twelve slices, each one three-sixteenths of an inch thick from the thick end of a cooked 

beef tongue; pare them neatly either into rounds, ovals, or half hearts; heat them in a little half 

glaze (No. 413), and dress them around a remove covering with a Andalusian tomato sauce (No. 


550). 
(331) 


332 THE EPICUREAN. 


(643), BOUCHEES OF PUREE OF PHEASANTS GARNISHING (Garniture de Bouchées & la Purée 


de Faisans), 


Prepare a dozen puff paste bouchées (No. 11), cook them only a short time before they are 
needed so as not to be obliged to heat them over again. After they are emptied, keep them warm. 
Put into a saucepan a few spoonfuls of good pheasant purée (No. 716); press through a tammy (No. 
170), and heat it while stirring well on a slow fire and incorporate intoit a few spoonfuls of good game 
fumet (No. 397), reduced to a half-glaze, but be careful it does not boil; season highly and finish 
by stirring in a small piece of butter. Fill the bouchées with this purée, baste over with a little 
sauce and cover either with their own covers, or else with a round piece of cooked truffle cut 
out with a column tube (Fig. 168). Dress pyramidically on a folded napkin. 


(644), BOURGEOISE GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Bourgeoise), 


Have two pounds of cabbage, parboiled and cooked with half a pound of salt pork, blanched 
for fifteen minutes, moisten with a quart of strained broth (No. 194a), and its fat. Twenty pieces 
of small cork shaped turnips, blanched and cooked in broth, reduced to a glaze just when cooked. 
Twenty small pear-shaped carrots, blanched, cooked in broth, and reduced to a glaze just as they 
are finished. Twenty small, blanched, braised and glazed onions. Dress the cabbage on both ends 
of the meat, garnishing the former with the salt pork cut in slices, and group the carrots, turnips. 
and ouions around in alternate clusters. Serve separately a gravy (No. 404) thickened with cspag- 
mole sauce (No. 414), and well reduced. 


(645), BRETIGNY GARNISHING (Garniture a la Brétigny). 


Remove the breasts from sixteen reedbirds, roll them in a sauce made with some gravy (No. 
404), to which has been added meat glaze (No. 401), the carcasses and a little Madeira wine, 
the whole allowed to reduce and then strained. Have sixteen pieces of channeled mushrooms 
(No. 118) cooked in butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and chopped truffles; sixteen slices 
of sweetbread of one ounce each, blanched and sautéd in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper 
and chopped parsley. Sixteen pieces of potato cut into one inch diameter balls, then blanched 
and sautéd in butter. Range the potato balls on the ends of the dish, and place the sweet- 
breads, mushrooms, and reedbird breasts around in alternate clusters. Serve with this 
garnishing a separate sauce-boat of Madeira sauce with truffle essence (No. 395). 


(646), PARMA BROCHETTES GARNISHING (Garniture Brochettes de Parme), 


Made with semolino cooked in light broth and a grain of salt. Prepare a well cooked and 
thick mush; remove it from the fire, and finish it with some grated parmesan and butter, seasoning 
it to taste. Spread this preparation in layers on baking sheets dampened with cold water, having 
each one an eighth of an inch thick; as soon as they are cold and stiff, cut them into one inch ~ 
rounds; prepare half as many rounds of the very best fresh Swiss cheese. Take some small wooden 
skewers, and pass on each three rounds, one of cheese and two of semolino, placing the cheese one 
in the center; dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in white bread-crumbs. A few minutes 
before serving plunge them into hot fat; a few at the time, to heat and get a nice color, then drain 
and serve them separately on a folded napkin, or else around the piece to be garnished. 


(647), BRUSSELS GARNISHING (Garniture Bruxelloise), 


One pound of Brussells sprouts, blanched and cooked in consommé (No.-189). Half a 
pound of salt pork cut in slices and broiled... Half a pound of carrot balls three quarters of an 
inch in diameter, blanched, cooked in consommé (No. 189) and reduced toa glaze. Half a pound 
of small blanched onions braised and glazed. One pound of Chipolata sausages cut in two length- 
wise. Dress all these garnishings in different groups around the remove, and serve separately a 
sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with ham essence (No. 390) added. 


(648), FRIED CALVES’ BRAIN GARNISHING (Garniture de Cervelles Frites), 


Calves and lambs’ brains are those most generally used for garnishings. They are first soaked 
8o as to be able to scrape and cleanse them properly, then cooked in water with some salt, vinegar, 
thyme, bay leaf, sliced onions, branches of parsley and pepper corns. Let the brains get cold ina 
vessel containing their own strained broth, and then divide the calves’ brains into six pieces, and 
lambs’ brains into two rounds or ovals. Dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in white bread-crambs 
and fry them a fine golden color in hot fat. Serve Separately a Chateaubriand sauce (No. 446). 








GARNISHINGS. 333 


(649). CARDINAL GARNISHING (Garniture Cardinal), 


The cardinal garnishing is composed of twelve ounces of lobster quenelles made with a tea-. 
spoon (No. 155), twelve ounces of sautéd shrimps, twelve ounces of small onions blanched and then 
cooked in fish stock (No. 417) and let fall to a glaze; six ounces of small whole truffles rolled in 
a little fish glaze (No. 399) and fresh butter, then arranged pyramidically, the onions dressed the. 
same. Dress the quenelles in clusters and cover them lightly with a Cardinal sauce (No. 442), 
and the shrimps sautéd in butter with fine herbs and lemon juice. Some Cardinal sauce to be 
served separately. 


(650), OEPES OR MUSHROOMS STUFFED A LA DUXELLE, PROVENQAL OR MINCED WITH 
BECHAMEL GARNISHING (Garniture de Opes ou de Champignons Farcis & la Duxelle, 
Provengale Emincés & la Béchamel), 


Remove the stalks from two pounds of young cépes or mushrooms, wash them well and cook 
them, with lemon juice, some butter and salt. (In case no fresh cépes can be obtained then use- 
preserved ones.) For garnishings, the heads alone are employed. Drain them, and fry them in 
some sweet oil with a finely chopped shailot and a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, one- 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a gill of brown espagnole (No. 414), also a tablespoonful of 
meat glaze (No. 401) and some chopped-up truffles. Cépes or mushrooms are also used as a gar- 
nishing when stuffed with a Duxelle (No. 385), thickened with a little raw lamb quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 92) or else a baked liver forcemeat (No. 64). In both cases they are to be placed in a 
baking-sheet and sprinkled over with either oil or melted butter, putting them into the oven to. 
bake. Sliced cépes or mushrooms are also to be used as a garnishing, cutting them up finely and 
sautéing them in butter or oil, then thickened with béchamel (No. 409), reduced with a little. 
meat glaze (No. 401). These minced cépes are served either on hollow crusts or in a vegetable dish. 


(651), CHAMBORD GARNISHING (Garniture Chambord), 


The Chambord garnishing is composed of eighteen pieces of truffles cut the shape of a clove of 
garlic and cooked in Madeira wine and afterward rolled in a little fish glaze (No. 399) and fine- 
butter. Eighteen crawfish tails from which the shells have been removed and the bodies glazed. 
Eighteen heads of fluted mushrooms (No. 118) cooked in a little water, butter and lemon juice. 
Ten pieces of fish quenelles decorated with truffles. Eighteen small pieces of milt a la Villeroi 
(No. 698), or fillets of striped bass; a lean Spanish sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and white. 
wine, or else a lean velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with fish broth, mushrooms and champagne: 
wine, and buttered at the last moment. . Dress the truffles, the mushroom heads and the crawfish 
in alternate clusters, and cover them either with the white or brown sauce; arrange around this. 
garnishing the quenelles decorated with truffles, the Villeroi milts or fillets of striped bass, and. 
send a third part of the sauce to the table in a separate sauce-boat. 


(652), EGGS WITH CHEESE GARNISHING (Garniture d’eufs au Fromage), 


This garnishing is composed of two ounces of butter, six whole eggs, four ounces of Swiss and 
parmesan cheese, both grated, a pinch of sugar and nutmeg. Beat up the eggs for two minutes, 
add to them the cheese, sugar, nutmeg, and half of the butter; melt the remainder of the butter in 
a saucepan, pour into it the eggs, and stir the liquid over a slow fire using a spoon for this purpose, 
until the compound thickens to the consistency of cream. Take it off the fire, keep stirring it again 
for two minutes, then mix in with it two spoonfuls of raw cream or velouté (No. 415). Pour the 
_ melted cheese in some boat shaped tartlet crusts, made with very thin foundation paste; bake them 
in a hot oven and serve. 


(653), CHEESE CRUST GARNISHING (Garniture de Orotites au Fromage). 


First cut some slices three-eighths of an inch thick from a kitchen loaf; divide them into long 
squares, two and a half inches by one and‘a quarter, Grate some Swiss and parmesan cheese, a 
quarter of a pound of each, and putit into a vessel with three soupspoonfuls of Stilton cheese, and 
mash them together with a spoon in order to obtain a smooth paste, then work into it slowly a few 
spoonfuls of sherry wine or ale, without jetting it get too soft, season with red pepper, and 
cayenne. Moisten lightly with melted butter the prepared slices of bread, toast them on both sides 


334 THE EPICUREAN. 


cover one side with a layer of the cheese preparation; dredge over them some grated parmesan, 
and lay the slices on a dish to push it in the oven so as to color the tops, or else use a salamander 
(Fig. 123) for the purpose; arrange these toasts around a remove or else serve them separately on a 


folded napkin or simply on a plate. 

For Chester Cheese. —Use the same slices of bread, only instead of toasting them, lay them in - 
a sautoire with hot clarified butter; brown them on one side only, then drain, and leave the butter 
in the sautoire. Cover the fried sides with a layer of grated cheese (Chester), sprinkle over a dash 
of cayenne pepper, and return the crusts to the sautoire containing the butter, then push it into a: 
moderately heated oven. When the cheese has become creamy, take out the sautoire, and dress 
the crusts either on folded napkins or around a remove. 


(654), CHESTNUT WITH GRAVY GARNISHING (Garniture de Marrons au jus), 


Peel two pounds of chestnuts; scald them so as to be able to remove their red skins, then lay 
them ina buttered flat saucepan. Moisten them to their height with broth (No. 194a) and let 
the liquid come to a boil, then remove the saucepan to a slower fire while cooking the 
chestnuts, being careful to keep them whole. After they are tender the moistening should be 
reduced to a glaze, and then glaze them over with a brush before servingthem. Another way is 
to split the shells on the side of each chestnut, plunge them into very hot frying fat, drain, and 
peel off the shells and red skins; cook them in boiling water with two ounces of butter, one ounce 
of celery, a little sugar and salt; simmer the whole and reduce the moisture entirely, then add a 
little meat glaze (No. 402) and some good gravy (No. 404); reduce and roll the chestnuts around 
so as to glaze them thoroughly and dress them either around a remove or in the center of an entrée. 


(655), CHEVREUSE GARNISHING (Garniture Chevreuse), 


Eight ounces of truffles cut in small slices, heated in Madeira wine and some meat glaze (No. 401). 
Sixteen ounces of foies-gras of either duck or goose, weighing in all about a pound. Thirty-two 
pieces of stuffed Spanish olives. Mingle these garnishings together in a sautoire, and add one 
quart of supreme sauce (No. 547), and at the very last moment add two ounces of very fine butter. 


(656). CHICKEN MINION FILLETS GARNISHING (Garniture de Filets Mignons de Poulet), 


Pare the minion fillets by removing the inside nerve, and the fine skin which covers them, have 
them all the same shape and size, then cut on each minion five or six small crosswise incisions 
dividing them in equal spaces, and in these incisions lay small, round slices of truffles, half an inch 
in diameter and cut very thin. Lay the minions on buttered sheets, giving them the shape either 
of a crescent or else laying them straight without bending them, but they can also be rolled around 
a column mold and laid one beside the other, streak half of them with truffles and the others with 
tongue, and fill the inside of them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), place on each of those 
streaked with truffles an olive, and on those streaked with tongue a ball of truffles, half an inch in 
diameter, put them in a buttered sautoire, moisten with a little mushroon essence (No. 392), cover 
them with buttered paper, and let them poach in aslow oven. Use these minions for improving 
garnishings. 


(657). CHIPOLATA GARNISHING (Garniture & la Chipolata). 4 


This garnishing is composed of eighteen small whole carrots or else cut into balls and glazed, 
sighteen small glazed onions, eighteen cooked mushrooms, fluted (No. 118) eighteen whole chestnuts 
moistened with broth and cooked until they fallto a glaze, and small broiled Chipolata sausages (No. 
754). Set these various garnishings into a sautoire, and pour over when ready to serve some 
espagnole sauce (No, 414) reduced with Madeira wine, add half a pound of half inch squares of salt 


pork, fried in butter and cooked in consommé; arrange the garnishing in clusters for removes, or 
mingled for entrées. 


(658), CHOUX WITH CHEESE GARNISHING (Gamiture de Choux au Fromage). 


Prepare a pate-a-chou with three gills of water, half a pound of fiour, a quarter of a pound of 
butter, a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar, when dry mix into the paste five or six eggs one after 
the other and finish witha handful of grated cheese. Make round choux laying them on a baking tin 
a short distance apart, either with a pocket or a spoon, egg the surfaces and dredge over with parmesan; 
bake in a good but slackened oven. When dry, remove and leave till partly cold, then open the 


sides and fill each one with a spoonful of cheese fondue (No. 2954). Dress on a napkin or 
ground a remove. 








GARNISHINGS. 335 


(659). COCKS'-COMBS GARNISHING A LA COLBERT (Gamiture de Orétes de coq & la Colbert), 


Select one pound of cock’s-combs of equal size; put them into a colander and plunge it 
by degrees into some water a little warmer than tepid, then heat it gradually, in the meanwhile 
watching them attentively until they are done, or when by rubbing them with a cloth, the skin 
detaches. Drain at once, and put them in a cloth with a little fine salt, and rub them thoroughly 
till they are clean; finish cleansing by rubbing them with salt between the fingers, and in case the 
skin should not peel off, plunge them once more into boiling water, and finish by skinning prop- 
erly. Now put them into warm water to soak for twenty-four hours, changing the water several 
times, and then cut off the tip of the points and the roots of the combs; lay them once more in 
plenty of salted, tepid water, and squeeze them well to make them disgorge their blood; change 
the water several times, and finish by cooking them very slowly in acidulated water, then drain 
dry, and roll them in meat glaze (No. 401), fine butter and chopped parsley. 


(660), CONNETABLE GARNISHING (Garniture Connétable), 

Prepare sixteen minion fillets of chicken well freed of all sinews and skin; streak eight of them 
with tongue and dress them in a circle, shaping them around a three-quarter inch column cutter, 
put them on small square pieces of buttered paper; fill the interiors of each with chicken quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89) laid through a’ pocket, and on top of the forcemeat set small half inch balls of 
truffles. The other eight minion fillets are to be also laid in a circle on squares of buttered paper, 
filling the interiors with the same forcemeat as the others, but on the top of each set a stoned 
olive stuffed with anchovies; place them all on a buttered baking-pan, cover over with a buttered 
paper, moisten with mushroom essence (No. 392) and poach in a slack oven. Have sixteen small 
game quenelles made with a teaspoon (No. 155) and laid in a buttered sautoire, after decorating 
them with pistachio nuts, and poached in boiling salted water. Sixteen escalops of ducks’ liver, 
covered on both sides with a villeroy sauce (No. 560) containing mushrooms and raw fine herbs; 
let these get cold, then dip them in beaten eggs, and bread-crumbs, and fry them to fine golden 
color. Garnish the remove with the quenelles, minions and Villeroi ducks’ livers. Serve a 
financiére sauce (No. 464) separately. 


(661), CRAWFISH GARNISHING (Garniture d’Ecrevisses), 

Whole crawfish are sometimes used combined with other garnishings, but they are considered 
more as decorations than otherwise; in any case they must first be cooked in a court-bouillon 
(No. 38), and the shells removed from the tails, without detaching the meat from the bodies, or leave 
the shells on. 


How to Cook Them.—Wash the crawfish, changing the water several times during the opera- 
tion; suppress the small vein found in the middle underneath the fins, at the tail end, then lay the 
fish in a saucepan, and season with salt, mignonette, vinegar, or white wine, sliced onions, branches 
of parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. When they are cooked, break off the small side claws, and 
remove the shell or not as desired. They can now be trussed as shown in Fig. 506, for skewers. 
The crawfish tails after being picked out of their shells, are used as garnishings, sautéing them 
in butter and seasoning with salt, pepper, fine herbs and fish glaze (No. 399). The body shells 
stuffed with forcemeat (No. 90) are used for soups. 


(662). DEMIDOFF GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Demidoff), 

Sixteen pieces of small, flat lobster croquettes (No. 880), sixteen pieces of risolletes of pan- 
cakes with forcemeat or hashed fish, sixteen pieces of large drained oysters, rolled in powdered 
crackers and fried in clarified butter, drained and dredged over with chopped parsley. Dress this 
garnishing around a remove and serve separately a lean velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with 
some of the oyster liquor. 


(663), DOLPHETTES OF CHICKEN GARNISHING (Garniture de Dolphettes de Poulet). 
Brown two shallots in two ounces of butter; add one pound of cooked white chicken meat cut 
in one-eight inch squares, and four ounces of ham cut the same; season with salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg, and coyer the whole with a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and a gill of tomato sauce (No. 
549). Let the whole boil up once, then remove it, and set it aside to get cold, and with this pre- 
paration make crescent shaped croquettes; dip them in beaten eggs, and bread-crumbs, and fry 
them nicely. 


336 THE EPICUREAN. 


(664), DOLPHETTES OF TENDERLOINS OF BEEF GARNISHING (Garniture de Dolphettes de 
Filet de Boeuf), 


Fry colorless, in two ounces of butter, one ounce and a half of chopped shallot; add to it a 
pound and a half of cooked and finely hashed tenderloin of beef, three ounces of fresh bread- 
crumbs, three ounces of grated parmesan, and eight egg-yolks or two to three whole eggs. Let this 
preparation cool off, then divide it into eight parts, forming each one into a ball; roll these in 
fresh bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, mixed well together and fry them to a fine color. 


(665), DUCHESS GARNISHING (Garniture Duchesse), 


Lay on the table a quarter of a pound of flour; two ounces of parmesan, and two ounces of 
Chester cheese, both finely grated; a grain of salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper; dilute with a 
little water and one egg so as to obtain a smooth and firm paste. Roll this out on the floured 
table to one-eighth of an inch in thickness; cut it into inch and a half diameter round pieces, and 
lay these on buttered sheets; cook in a hot oven, not having them brown. Beat up some fresh 
butter in a bowl; mix in with it double its quantity of grated Chester cheese, and a dash of 
cayenne pepper. Lay the round pieces of cooked paste two by two, one on top of the other, after 
spreading them all thickly with the cheese preparation; range them once more on the sheet, and 
heat for a few minutes in a moderate oven, then dress on a napkin or around the remove. 


(666). FERMIERE GARNISHING (Garniture & la Fermire), 


Sixteen persons.—One pound and a half of braised cabbage (No. 2706), arranged in clusters. 
Eighteen small braised lettuce (No. 2754), eighteen potatoes, cut olive shaped, blanched, cooked 
afterward in broth, and let fall to a glaze. Eighteen pear shaped carrots, blanched, and cooked in 
white broth, then let fall to a glaze. Dress all these garnishings in clusters, being careful to 
alternate tastefully the different colors. Serve separately thickened gravy (No. 405). 


(667), FINANCIERE GARNISHING (Garniture & la Financitre), 3 


Siateen Persons. For Removes.—Should the garnishing be required for dressing around a - 
large piece, then it can be composed of whole peeled truffles of quenelles, molded in a dessert- 
spoon (No. 155), escalops of foies-gras, mushroom heads, cock’s-combs and kidneys, lamb sweet- 
breads or small veal sweetbreads larded and glazed. This garnishing is used for garnishing 
removes of poultry, game and meats, dressing it in groups around and serving a financiére sauce 
(No. 464), separately. 


For Entrées.—Cooked, peeled and minced truffles; small mushroom button heads, slices of 
sweetbreads a quarter of an inch thick, pared with a cutter to an inch in diameter, quarter inch 
thick slices of foies-gras pared with an inch diameter, round cutter, and oblong quenelles. Put the 
garnishings into a sautoire and cover with financiére sauce (No. 464). Use this garnishing for 
covering or surrounding entrées. 


(668), FLEMISH GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Flamande), 


Blanch and drain a pound and a half of cabbage, put it into a saucepan with half a 
pound of salt pork, pepper, one onion with two cloves in it, and sufficient unskimmed broth 
(No. 194a) to cover the cabbage, then let cook all together for two hours. Cut sixteen carrots into 
pear-shaped pieces, parboil them first, and then finish cooking them in some broth with sugar, 
until they fall to a glaze. Have sixteen cork-shaped pieces of turnips, parboil and cook them also 
in consommé with sugar, till they fall to a glaze. Drain the cabbage when it is done, and lay 
them on the ends of the remove to be garnished, being careful to suppress the onion containing the 
cloves. Cut the salt pork into slices. and lay these on top of the cabbage, then set the carrots 


and turnips in clusters on the sides. Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 418) or else a white 
sauce (No. 562). 


(669), FRENCH GARNISHING (Garniture & la Francaise), 


Twenty-four pieces of truffles, the size and shape of a crescent olive, in a good half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. Six ounces of cooked cock’s-combs and four ounces of cooked cock’s- 
kidneys. Twenty-four small mushroom heads, turned (No. 118), sautéd, drained and rolled in meat 





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7 
> 





GARNISHINGS. eons: 337 


glaze (No. 401) and fresh butter, twenty-four pieces of small chicken quenelles (No. 89) poached in 
a small pointed mold decorated with truffles, twenty-four crawfish tails, shelled and sautéd in 
butter, seasoned with salt, lemon juice, chopped parsley, meat glaze (No. 401) and fresh butter. 
A French sauce (No. 467), to be served separately. 


(670), FRITADELLES OF VEAL GARNISHING (Garniture de Fritadelles de Veau). 


Dip a peund and a half of bread-crumbs in some milk, and when well soaked, extract all the 
liquid; have a pound of pared and well chopped roast veal, also two ounces of finely chopped beef 
marrow. Put two ounces of chopped up onions in a saucepan to fry in two ounces of butter, but. 
do not let it attain a color, then add the veal, the pressed bread-crumbs and the beef marrow, salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, also a finely chopped lemon peel; reduce and beat in two eggs. After the: 
preparation has cooled off, divide it into small parts so as to be able to make flat croquettes, dip. 
them in egg, then in bread-crumbs and fry to a good color. 


(671), FRITADELLES OF ROAST BEEF GARNISHING (Garniture de Fritadelles de Rosbif), 


Cut into three sixteenth inch squares, one pound of lean roast beef, chop up two. 
ounces of onions, fry in two ounces of butter, dredge over with two spoonfuls of flour, 
moisten with broth and reduce; then add the beef, salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and two 
ounces of cooked lean ham cut as small as the beef, heat the whole without boiling; set it aside to 


get cold and then roll it into balls one inch and a quarter in diameter, flatten down, dip in beaten 


eggs, bread-crumbs, and fry them nicely in butter. 


(672). GODARD GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Godard), 


Make twelve quenelles, in an entremet spoon (No: 155), decorate richly. Twelve smalk 
sweetbreads larded and glazed, the throat sweetbreads if possible. Twelve large cock’s-combs, 
and twelve cock’s-kidneys. Twelve pieces of escalops of foies-gras, cut half heart shaped; twelve 
fluted mushrooms (No. 118) and twelve medium whole truffles, all rolled in a little half-glaze sauce 
(No. 413). Six very small squabs may be added if desired, but it is apt to make the garnishing too 
large. Dress around the dish in clusters, serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), separately. 


(673). GRIBOULETTE GARNISHING (Garniture de Griboulettes), 


Have ten ounces of chopped raw beef free of nerves, half a pound of kidney suet, the skin and 
fibers suppressed; chop each of these separately, then mix in with them five ounces of fresh bread- 
crumbs, three tablespoonfuls of onions, chopped and fried in butter, one tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, salt, and pepper. Divide this preparation into flat balls, flatten them down to an inch 
and a half in diameter, dip themin beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs and fry in clarified 
butter until a fine color. 


(674), GRIMOD GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Grimod), 


Ten ounces of cooked cock’s-combs warmed in a little dry Madeira and half-glaze sauce (No. 
413). Twenty ounces of cock’s-kidneys poached the same as quenelles, drained and thickened with 
meat glaze (No. 401) and butter. Twenty ounces of foies-gras quenelles, mixed in and thickened 
with a half-glaze sauce and Madeira. Arrange all of these in clusters around a remove, and serve 
separately a Grimod sauce (No. 475). 


(675), HENRION GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Henrion), 


Raise the fillets from six snipes, remove all the nerves and skin, pare, season them with salt, 
and pepper, and sauté them in butter a few minutes before serving. Trim twelve slices of un- 
smoked red beef tongue into half heart-shaped pieces the same size as the snipe fillets, and heat 
them in a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira wine. Have twelve croquettes made of 
blanched chicken livers, the finely chopped insides of the snipes, and the meat cut from the 
thighs, also some mushrooms; the livers, thighs, and mushrooms to be cut into three-sixteenths of 
an inch square; mix the whole with a brown sauce (No. 414), and use this preparation for making 
round croquettes one and a half inches wide by one quarter of an inch thick, dip them in beaten 
ege, then bread-crumbs, and fry them a nice color. Serve separately a financiére sauce (No. 464), 
finished with the snipe carcasses. 


338 THE EPICUREAN. 


(676), IMPERIAL GARNISHING (Garniture & l’Impériale), 


Have a half pound or eight whole truffles peeled and cooked in champagne; eight escalops of 
foies-gras, breaded a la Villeroi, and fried; sixteen pieces of fluted mushroom heads (No. 118) 
cooked in butter, lemon juice and water; eight cocks’-combs and eight cocks’-kidneys, sixteen 
chicken quenelles made with a teaspoon (No. 159). Arrange the foles-gras at the end of the dish 
and the remainder of the garnishing in clusters around, and cover with a little half-glaze sauce 
(No. 413) and Madeira. Serve in a separate sauce-boat a financiére sauce (No. 464). 


(677) J ARDINIBRE GARNISHING (Garniture 4 la Jardiniére), 


The jardiniére is composed of whole roots and vegetables, or else cut into distinet pieces, such 
as carrots, turnips, string beans, cauliflower, small glazed onions, Brussels sprouts, asparagus tops 
or cucumbers cut in the shape of cloves of garlic. The carrots and turnips are to be blanched, 
but not refreshed, then sautéd in butter with a little sugar, and finished cooking in beef 
broth (No. 194a), just sufficient so that when the roots are done the moistening is reduced to 
a glaze. The small onions to be sautéd in butter with a little sugar and let fall to a glaze; the 
string beans cut in lozenges and cooked first in salted water, then refreshed and drained and 
sautéd in butter. The cauliflowers to be cooked in water and cut into small flowerets, the Brussels 
sprouts, asparagus tops and cucumbers cooked in salted water, then sautéd in butter. The green 
vegetables should be cooked ina copper vessel, the others in a tinned one. This garnishing 
is usually arranged in clusters and served with a separate brown Madeira sauce (No. 492). For 
entrées mix all the vegetables together and add to them a brown sauce (No. 414) and some fine 
butter. 


(678), LIVERS A LA VINGELAS GARNISHING (Garniture de Foies-Gras & la Vincelas), 


For this garnishing use fat duck or geese livers, weighing from a half pound to a pound. Péri- 
gueux foies-gras preserved plain may be substituted in case no fresh livers are on hand, but when 
the latter can be procured, then blanch and braise them in a mirepoix with Madeira stock (No. 419), 
let them get cold in it, then cut them up into quarter inch slices, and trim them either 
round shaped or into ovals or hearts. In the meanwhile prepare four ounces of peeled truffles, 
eight ounces of salt, unsmoked red beef tongue, and six ounces of cooked mushrooms, cut all these 
three into eighth of an inch squares, and lay them in a Madeira sauce reduced with some good 
white wine, and after the preparation is cooked, let it get cold, and with it cover one side of the 
livers, and over this lay chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); dredge finely chopped pistachios over 
the top. Garnish the bottom of a dish with slices of fat pork, lay the livers on top, and cover the 
whole with buttered paper, set it into a moderate oven for ten minutes, and serve separately a 
champagne sauce (No. 445). . 


(679), CHICKEN LIVER GARNISHING IN GASES OR GROUSTADES (Garniture de Foies de 
Volaille en Caisses ou en Oroustades,) 


Choose a pound of very white, fine, and fat chicken livers, mince them well and fry them 
briskly in butter, moisten with half a gill of Madeira wine and half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 
414); season with salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon. With these prepared livers fill some 
croustades made with puff paste fragments, or else oiled cases previously dried in the oven, gar- 
nishing the bottoms with chicken and fine herb forcemeat (No. 75). Serve a half-glaze sauce 
«No. 413) with Madeira separate. 


(680). MACEDOINE GARNISHING (Garniture Macédoine), 


Cut into small quarter of an inch squares, eight ounces of carrots, selecting only the very red part, 
or else use a round or oval vegetable spoon, two to three-eighths of an inch in diameter; have eight 
ounces of string beans cut into small lozenges, also six ounces of very tender turnips, prepared ex- 
actly the same as the carrots: blanch these separately in salted water, keeping them slightly hard, 
then lay them with a piece of butter in a sautoire. and season with salt and sugar; toss them for a 
few minutes on a brisk fire to dry well the moisture, then drain off the butter. Put on, to reduce, 
two or three gills of béchamel (No. 409), stir into it a few spoonfuls of raw cream, and finally a 








GARNISHINGS. 339 


few spoonfuls of root glaze (No. 403); remove it from the fire, and add to it the vegetables already 


_ cooked, as well as six ounces of green peas, and six ounces of asparagus tops, both previously 


boiled in salted water. Finish the macédoine by incorporating into it three ounces of fresh butter 
broken up into small bits. 


(681). MARROW AND OHIVES OANAPES GARNISHING (Garniture Canapés & la Moelle et 
a la Ciboulette), 

Have sixteen oval shaped bread crofitons, slit them all around a quarter of an inch from the 
edge, and fry them in clarified butter. Empty out the centers, and garnish the insides with slices 
of marrow previously plunged into boiling water, drained, and seasoned with salt and cayenne 
pepper; dredge over the top some finely shred chives, and set them for one minute into a warm 
oven; before serving cover with a Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(682), MARROW FRITTERS GARNISHING (Garniture de Beignets de Moelle), 


Cut some beef marrow in thick slices, and plunge them into boiling water, then drain and 
leave them to get cold. Dip each separate piece into bread-crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again 
in bread-crumbs, and fry them a fine golden color in very hot frying-fat. A separate sauce-boat of 
half-glaze sauce (No. 413) should be served at the same time. 


(683), MARROW FRITTERS WITH TRUFFLES GARNISHING (Garniture de Beignets de Moelle 
aux Truffes), 


Cook in white velouté stock (No. 422) for ten minutes, six marrow bones cut in six inch lengths; 
let them get cold, then take out the inside marrow. Prepare a half-glaze, with an equal quantity 
of jelly, or simply put a gelatine leaf in the half-glaze, and to it add some chopped truffles; put a little 
of this half-glaze into the bottom of timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 187) set on top a piece of the marrow 
sufficient to fill it half, and over the marrow a slice of truffle, and again a piece of marrow, so as to 
fill the mold to within an eighth ofan inch from the top; finish with some of the sauce, then unmold, 
and dip each one in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry, or else simply cover the marrow with 
an espagnole sauce (No. 414), containing chopped truffles, having it almost cold, then dip them 
in frying paste (No. 2, No. 137), and fry them a fine color; serve a half-glaze sauce separate (No. 413). 


(684), MATELOTE GARNISHINGS (Garnitures Matelote), 


These garnishings are composed of roe, milt, crawfish tails, small glazed onions, whole 
mushrooms, and even truffles; they are to be dressed either in clusters or mixed together; if the 
latter be desired, then cover them with a matelote sauce (No. 498), and if the former, arrange them 
in distinct groups, and serve the sauce separately. 


(685), MATELOTE BOURGUIGNOTTE GARNISHING (Garniture Matelote Bourguignotte), 


Eighteen crawfish cooked in a court bouillon (No. 38). Eighteen crotitons of bread cut 
into half heart-shape and fried in butter. Eight ounces of small mushroom heads, eight ounces 
of small onions blanched, then cooked in consommé and glazed. Eight ounces of crawfish tails, 
a pint and a half of bourguignotte sauce (No. 437). Put into this sauce the mushrooms, small 
onions, and crawfish tails; dress this garnishing around the remove, and decorate the dish with 
crawfish and the bread crofitons fried in butter. 


(686), MATELOTE MARINIERE GARNISHING (Garniture Matelote Marinidre). 


This garnishing is to be made with thirty-six small quenelles of pike (No. 90) seasoned with 
cayenne pepper, thirty-six cooked mussels, after removing the small black appendage found attached 
to them, thirty-six crawfish tails, and six ounces of minced truffles. Mingle all these ingredients in a 
sautoire, and cover them with a mariniére sauce (No. 497), reduced with a part of the mussel 
broth. Add butter to the sauce just before serving. 


(687), MATELOTE NORMANDE GARNISHING (Garniture Matelote Normande), 
To be made with eighteen cooked mussels out of their shells, eighteen medium sized blanched 
oysters, eighteen pieces of milt a la villeroi (No. 698), to be the same size as the oysters; eighteen 
medium sized cooked mushroom heads, eighteen trussed crawfish cooked in a mirepoix (No. 419), 


340 THE EPICUREAN. 


eighteen round crusts one inch in diameter, cut from the crusty part of small rolls, buttered and 
colored in the oven. Mix in a sautoire with some Normande sauce (No. 509), the mussels, oysters, 

and mushroom heads, then dress them around a remove, and garnish the outside edge with the 
crofitons, the crawfish, and the milt 4 la Villeroi (No. 698). 


(688), MILT GARNISHING (Garniture de Laitances), 


Select very fresh milts, and suppress all the sanguineous parts; soak them for one hour, 
then lay them in a saucepan with some water, salt, vinegar, and parsley. Boil up the liquid, 
and remove it to the side of the range, and keep it thus for twelve to fifteen minutes in order to 
have them poached. They are to be served either with a Colbert sauce (No. 451), or else milt 


a la Villeroi (No. 698), 


(689). MIRMIDONS WITH PARMESAN GARNISHING (Garniture de Mirmidons au Par- 


mesaD), 


A mirmidon is a small canelon. They are made thin and short and are filled with a special 
preparation. Pound two raw chicken fillets with an equal quantity of cooked fat livers; two or 
three raw peeled truffles, and two raw egg-yolks; season this foreemeat and press it through a 
sieve. Prepare a noodle paste (No. 142), roll it out into a thin, long, three inch wide band, and 
cut this band transversely into three inch length pieces; plunge them into boiling, salted water, and 
let them cook for eight minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire, to keep the 
water bubbling for two minutes longer; the paste should now be done. Drain the pieces with a 
skimmer, and set them in a vessel containing tepid, salted water, then lift them out one by one 
to wipe dry, and spread on, the table; cover each separate piece with a layer of the prepared force- 
meat, rolled so that the edges of the paste meet, and arrange these mirmidons on the bottom of a 
buttered sautoire (Fig. 130), keeping them close together, the edges of paste underneath; moisten to 
their heighth with a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No, 413), reduced with two or three 
spoonfuls of Madeira wine; boil the sauce, cover the saucepan and set it on a very slow fire to allow 
the mirmidons to simmer from fifteen to twenty minutes; drain, trim the ends nicely, then range 
them in layers in a vegetable dish, dusting over each layer with grated parmesan, and besprink- 
ling the top with a little Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(690). MORIL AND GIROLLE GARNISHING. (Garniture de Morilles ou de Girolles), 


Wash in several waters one pound of morils; cut off half of their stalks, then throw 
them into boiling water, and leave them to soak awhile; change the water, then drain them by 
lifting them up with the hand and laying them on a sieve, afterward sauté them in four ounces of 
butter, adding the juice of a lemon, and let them cook for ten minutes. Moisten them with one pint 
of consommé (No 189), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and a bay leaf; boil the 
whole for twenty minutes, then suppress the parsley and drain off the broth; now add some espagnole 
sauce (No. 414), and fine herbs, and reduce it to the consistency of a light sauce, to which add the 
morils and serve very hot. 

Girolle.—Cut off the stalks from two pounds of girolles and then divide them into two or four 
pieces, according to their size. Wash well in several waters, then drain. Heat four ounces of 
butter in a sautoire, adding the girolles and some lemon juice; moisten with a pint of bouillon (No. 
187,) season with salt and let boil slowly for a few moments, then drain and put them back into 
the saucepan. Reduce a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) with the clear part of the stock, add it 
to the girolles just when serving and finish the sauce with a little chicken glaze (No. 398) and two 
ounces of fresh butter. 


(691), MOUSSERON GARNISHING, PRINCESS SAUCE (Garniture de Mousserons, Sauce 
Princesse), 


An eatable mushroom growing under moss, found in woods. Cook two pounds of mousserons 
under a cover, by placing them on a buttered dish, and seasoning with salt, pepper, and two gills 
of white wine; cover with a bell cover, begin to cook on the fire, then finish for twenty minutes in a. 
moderate oven; drain and place the liquid in a pint of princess sauce (No. 528), reduce and when 
done to perfection, add a tablespoonful of chicken glaze (No. 398), and two ounces of butter. 
Roll the mousserons in the sautoire and serve. 








GARNISHINGS. 34] 


(692), MUSHROOMS A LA DELSART GARNISHIN G (Garniture de Champignons & la Delsart), 


Select twelve fine, large mushrooms, cut off the stalks and empty them partly with a vegetable 
Spoon, being careful not to break them, then throw them gently into fresh acidulated water. 
‘Chop up finely two ounces of the mushroom parings, one ounce of onions, one clove of crushed garlic, 
and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, heat well two ounces of butter ina saucepan, add the onions 
to fry colorless, then the garlic, and parsley, and finally the mushroom parings after these have 
reduced their moisture, put in two ounces of bread-crumbs, a pint of béchamel (No. 409), salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, stirring in four raw egg-yolks, drain the mushrooms, and fill them with 
this preparation, having it slightly bomb-shaped on top, bestrew with bread-raspings, and pour 
over a little butter. Lay them on a baking-tin covered with slices of fat pork, place this in a hot 


oven to brown the forcemeat, and serve with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira. 


(693), MUSSELS BORDELAISE GARNISHING (Garniture de Moules 3 la Bordelaise), 


Poached mussels are frequently used with other garnishings but they can also be served alone 
‘around small fish. 

For Mussels Bordelaise.—Procure five dozen mussels, clean them well, washing them in 
several waters and then cook them with some mignonette, parsley, and sliced onions, but no salt, 
adding a little water. Set them on a slow fire, and when the mussels are opened, take them out 
of their shells, remove the black appendage, drain, and roll them in a Bordelaise sauce with marrow 
(No. 436); do not let them come to a boil, and use them for a garnishing. 


(694), NOISETTES OF VEAL AND LAMBS’ FRIES GARNISHING (Garniture de Noisettes de 
Veau et d’Animelles d’Agneau), 

Noisettes of Veal, are found in the shoulder of either veal or lamb; soak and blanch them, 
then cook them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork and some good mirepoix stock (No. 
419), let them get cold in this, and then pare them by removing all the fat parts; mix them in with 
a fleurette sauce. 

Freurette Sauce is made with béchamel (No. 409) reduced with cream, into which mix finely 
‘cut up chives and finished at the last moment with a piece of fresh butter. 

For the Lamb's Fries Garnishing.—Split them in two lengthwise, take them out of their 
‘skin season each piece with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour, and afterward dip them in 
beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them a finecolor. Garnish with the veal noisettes the sides 
-of a remove, and at the ends set the lamb’s fries. 


(695), OLIVES PLAIN OR STUFFED GARNISHING (Garniture d’Olives Simples ou Farcies), 


Spanish olives are the best for garnishing; select the largest, and stone them with the assis- 
tance of a small knife, cutting the meat around in spirals, and then removing the stone. 
‘Throw them as quickly as they are done into cold water; heat this up without boiling it; refresh 
them, and add them to any desired hot sauce, being careful that they do not boil and break. 


For Stuffed Olives.—They must be first blanched, and allowed to cool; they can either be 
‘Stuffed with a plain quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) or with a baking forcemeat (No. 81) mingled with 
a little raw chicken forcemeat (No. 62), then thrown immediately into a saucepan containing 
hot broth, and leave them in until the forcemeat is well poached; they are then to be added to any 
sauce they are required to accompany. 


(696). ORONGES A LA LIVOURNAISE GARNISHING (Garniture d’Oronges & la Livournaise). 


Have sixteen medium sized oronges, suppress the stalks, empty out half of the inside of the 
oronges with a vegetable spoon and chop up the stalks and insides just removed; fry this in two 
ounces of butter until all the moisture is evaporated and it is perfectly dry, then add the juice of 
one lemon and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. Let this now get cold, and then add 
to it half its quantity of chicken forcemeat (No. 89), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and 
two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549); season well. Mix together and fill the oronges with 
this preparation, giving them a dome-shape. Lay them on a dish garnished with a few bardes of 
fat pork and sprinkle over some bread raspings and grated parmesan cheese; pour over a little 
good sweet oil, a little broth, and place it in a slack oven for twenty to thirty minutes. A half- 


glaze sauce (No. 418), accompanies this garnishing. 


342 THE EPICUREAN. 


(697), OYSTER GARNISHING A LA TYKOPF Garniture d’Huttres & la Tykopf). 


First blanch thirty-six small oysters, then drain and wipe them on a napkin, cut away the 
muscles or hard parts and fill in this space with a crab croquette preparation (No. 879), cover the 
oysters with a light coating of béchamel sauce (No. 409), with finely chopped truffles added, and 
leave them in till they are very cold, then dip them in bread-crumbs and beaten eggs and fry them 
in clarified butter. 


(698), OYSTERS, MUSSELS OR MILTS A LA VILLEROI GARNISHING (Garniture d’Huitres de 
Moules ou de Laitances 4 la Villeroi), 


Blanch, drain and wipe thirty-six oysters; reduce an allemande sauce (No. 407), with the 
oyster liquor, adding two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs, let get cold and coat the oysters with 
it, leave them till very cold, and then dip them into eggs and fry them a fine golden color. For 
mussels proceed the same, only first removing the black piece adhering to them; milts are to be 
cooked also the same. bs 


(699), OYSTER GARNISHING FOR SHELLS AND FOR PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS (Garniture 
d’Huitres pour Coquilles et pour Bouchées aux Champignons), 


The first step to take is to open the oysters, detach them from their shells, and poach them in. 
their own juice, after this is done, drain them off. They can be bread-crumbed and baked in their 
own shells if needed whole, or in small scollop shells if they are in salpicon (No. 165), or else they — 
are used to garnish bouchées. To prepare them for the patties proceed as follows: Blanch thirty-two 
medium sized oysters in their own juice in a saucepan, drain and dry them on a napkin. Frya 
finely chopped shallot in two ounces of butter, moisten with the oyster juice, add a pint of 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduce and then strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159), cut the 
oysters into small squares and fry them in two ounces of butter over a brisk fire, and add them to 
the prepared béchamel, also two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 


(700), PALATE OF BEEF GARNISHING A LA MANOELLE IN CASES (Garniture de Palais de 
Boeuf 4 la Mancelle en Caisses), 


After the palates of beef (No. 1326) are cooked, put them under a weight to get cold, then cut 
out of them round pieces an inch in diameter, sufficient to have a pound. Set these into a sauce- 
pan with half a pound of mushrooms and four ounces of truffles both sliced and of the same 
diameter as the palates, add six gills of espagnole (No. 414), one of tomato sauce (No. 549), the 
juice of a lemon and one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401). With this preparation fill some 
small china cases, or else oiled paper ones dried in the oven, dredge bread-crumbs over the tops, 
also grated parmesan cheese, pour on a little melted butter and set them in the oven to brown. 


(701), POLPETTE GARNISHING (Garniture de Polpettes), 


Pare well one pound of lean, raw mutton, then chop it up fine, also half a pound of pork fat or 
calf’s udder. Mix well the mutton and udder together, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and 
add three whole eggs, then divide this into eighteen parts and with them make balls, roll them 
in fiour, dip them in beaten egg and roll them once more in bread-crumbs, smooth neatly and fry 
them in clarified butter. Range them nicely around a remove. 


(702), PRAWNS, CRAWFISH, CRABS OR LOBSTERS WITH RAW FINE HERBS GARNISHING 
(Garniture de Orevettes, Ecrevisses, Grabes ou Homards aux Fines Herbes Orues), 


After the prawns are cooked, refresh and shell them; leave them whole and sauté them in 
butter, seasoning with salt, pepper, and raw fine herbs, also the juice of a lemon. Crawfish tails 
may be left whole. For crabs, take out the largest piece, from the crab, and for lobsters cut them 


in escalops or slices, three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; finish them the same as for the 
above. 


(703), PROVENGAL GARNISHING (Garniture & la Provengale), 


Prepare for this garnishing eighteen small stuffed tomatoes a la Provengal (No. 2835), eighteen 
stuffed mushrooms (No. 692), adding to them a bit of garlic, and eighteen croquettes, made with 
half a pound of minced onions blanched for ten minutes in plenty of water, then fried colorless in 





GARNISHINGS. 543, 


batter with their same weight of minced cooked artichoke bottoms, add an allemande sauce (No. 
407), and when cold make small croquettes with this preparation, letting them be round and flats. 
bread-crumb and then dip them in egg, bread-crumb again and fry them a fine color. Garnish 
around the remove, with these, alternating the tomatoes, the stuffed mushrooms, and the 
croquettes. 


(704). PUREE OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Purée de Fonds 
d’Artichauts et de Topinambours), 


Cut out two pounds of artichoke bottoms, and blanch them in salted water, drain and mince 
up fine; lay this into four ounces of butter, but do not let color, then drain off the butter, and 
moisten with a quart of broth (No. 189); let cook slowly until the bottoms are done, and when the 
moisture is reduced, add one pint of béchamel (No. 409), and reduce the preparation once 
more, but without ceasing to stir for an instant until it becomes consistent. Season, rub througha 
sieve and put this purée into a saucepan to heat while stirring, but it must not boil. Just when 
ready to serve add four ounces of fine butter. Prepare the Jerusalem artichokes exactly the same, 
the only difference being that they are peeled and minced raw before frying them in butter, then 
finish exactly the same as for the artichoke bottoms; all purées for garnishing, should be of such 
sonsistency as not to spread. 


(705), PUREE OF ASPARAGUS (Purée d’Asperges). 


Break off the tender ends of sufficient green asparagus to obtain a pound of tops. Blanch 
these in boiling, salted water in a copper basin, then drain them well and fry in a saucepan 
with four ounces of butter. Moisten with a pint of broth (No. 189), and let them cook until this is 
entirely reduced, then pound the asparagus in a mortar, adding a pint of very thick béchamel 
sauce (No.409), season with salt and sugar, reduce the whole, press through a fine sieve, and return 
the purée to the saucepan, to heat without boiling; stir in at the last moment two ounces of fine 
butter. 


(706), PUREE OF BEANS BRETONNE (Purée de Haricots Bretonne). 


‘Mince half a pound of onions; set them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with bay leaf, garlic, thyme and salt; let fry slowly, browning the onions: 
slightly. Let one pound of white beans soak for twelve hours, then boil them with two ounces. 
of butter added, and when nearly done, drain and pound them in a mortar with the onions, sup- 
pressing the parsley; add a pint of béchamel (No. 409), two gills of double cream, and two table- 
spoonfuls of chicken glaze (No. 398); press through a tammy (No. 170) and add two ounces 
of butter at the very last moment. 


(707). PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Purée de Choux de Bruxelles), 


Blanch in boiling salted water in an untinned vessel, two pounds of well cleaned Brussels 
sprouts; drain and put them into a saucepan, with one quart of broth (No. 189), two ounces of 
butter, some salt and sugar; boil slowly until done and the moisture entirely reduced, then mash 
them and press them through a sieve. Put the purée back into the saucepan with a pint of either 
velouté (No. 415), or espagnole (No. 414), and a tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401); heat it 
well and finish with two ounces of fine butter just when serving. 


(708), PUREE OF MILAN OR SAVOY CABBAGE (Purée de Choux de Milan ou de Savoie), 

Divide a cabbage into four parts; remove the core, then blanch, drain, refresh and shred it 
finely; fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot in four ounces of butter, add four ounces of 
minced mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and some sait to season, then the cabbage, 
one quart of broth (No. 194a), and two ounces of butter; let simmer until done to perfection, and 
when the liquid is entirely reduced, add two pints of béchamel sauce (No. 409), press through a 
sieve, and keep it very warm until serving; then add two ounces of fresh butter. 


(709), PUREE OF CARROTS (Purée de Carottes), 
Made with two pounds of the red part of minced carrots; blanch and then finish cooking them 
in four ounces of butter without browning; moisten with a quart of velouté stock (No. 422), season 
with salt and a little sugar, and let cook slowly until the carrots are tender, and the broth reduced... 


344 THE EPICUREAN. 


In case they should not be sufficiently moistened, add a little more beef stock (No. 194a), then pound 
the whole in a mortar; press them through a sieve, and return this purée to the saucepan witha pint 
of thick béchamel (No. 409); stir briskly, and just when ready to serve, add two ounces of fine 
butter. 


(710), PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER OR SEA-KALE (Purée de Choux-fleurs ou de Choux de Mer), 


Cut a cauliflower weighing two pounds into four parts, clean well, and set on to cook in a 
tinned vessel with salted water and two ounces of butter; when done, drain, and put the pieces 
into the saucepan to finish cooking with one quart of beef stock (No. 194a), four ounces of bread- 
crumbs, salt and sugar, reduce till dry, then mash well the cauliflower, adding half a quart of 
allemande sauce (No. 407); press through a sieve and keep the purée warm, stirring in two ounces — 
of butter just before serving. 

Sea-kale is to be prepared exactly the same. 


(711), PUREE OF CELERY, CELERY KNOBS AND CARDOONS (Purée de Céleri Céleris-raves et 
Cardons). 


For Celery.—Blanch two pounds of white celery stalks, after washing and scraping them, 
drain and mince them up. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan and when warm, add the 
minced celery and let fry without coloring, then moisten with a quart of stock (No. 189), 
seasoning with salt and sugar, cook and reduce this to nothing, then pound and press it through 
a sieve, heat it once more, add to it a pint of béchamel (No. 409), and lastly two ounces of fresh 
butter. 


For the Celery Knobs.—Have two pounds of celery knobs, cut each in four pieces, after’ peeling 
them; blanch them in hot water, drain, return them to the saucepan with salt, sugar and two 
ounces of butter, and reduce till dry, pound and rub through a sieve, add a gill of allemande (No. 
407), and just before serving, stir in two ounces of fine butter. mn) 


Cardoons.—Mince some cooked cardoons; reduce a béchamel (No. 409) with meat glaze (No. 
401), add the cardoons and reduce the whole together for twelve minutes; season with salt and sugar; 
rub through a fine sieve and return the pulp to the saucepan to heat without boiling and finish 
at the last moment with a piece of fresh butter. 


(712), PUREE OF OHESTNUTS (Purée de Marrons), 


Peel one pound of chestnuts, plunge them into boiling water soas to remove the inner skin, then 
lay them in a saucepan, and moisten them to their height with white broth (No. 189), adding a stalk 
of celery. Cook them with the lid on over a moderate fire, and when soft, and the broth entirely 
reduced, pound them in a mortar with two ounces of butter, seasoning with a little salt and sugar; 
pass this purée through a hair or tinned brass sieve (iron sieve should not be used for passing 
purées) and return it to the saucepan to heat without ceasing to stir, but at the same time watch- 
ing that it does not boil, beat in a little velouté (No. 415) and cream. 


(713), PUREE OF CHICKEN (Purée de Volaille) 


Cut off two pounds of meat from a cooked chicken, suppress all the skin and nerves, and pound 
the remainder with a piece of butter and two-thirds of its quantity of very consistent boiled rice. 
Strain through a tammy (No. 170), and set this purée in a saucepan, season, add to it two spoon- 
fuls of good, well reduced and thick velouté (No. 415), and heat it without allowing it to boil, 
and without ceasing to stir; incorporate into it at the last moment two ounces of fine butter. 


(714), PUREE OF CUCUMBERS (Purée de Concombres), 


Peel the cucumbers and suppress the seeds; weigh two pounds of ‘them after they are pared, 
blanch them for a few minutes in boiling, salted water, drain well, mince and fry them in four 
ounces of butter, then moisten with sufficient stock (No. 189), to cover, and let them cook 
and reduce until all the broth is absorbed. Pound them in a mortar adding a pint of very thick 
béchamel (No. 409), press through the sieve and heat the purée, adding two ounces of fine butter 
just before serving. 





GARNISHINGS. 345 


(715). PUREE OF FLAGEOLET, LIMA OR BROAD BEANS (Purée de Haricots Flageolets ou de Lima, 
Faves de Marais), ce 


Wash two pounds of flageolet beans, and then cook them in six quarts of salted water to which 
has been previously added two ounces of butter; when done, drain and pound the beans in the 
mortar, then put them into a saucepan with one pint of very thick béchamel sauce (No. 409), and 
two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401); season with salt, sugar, and red pepper, pass the 
whole through a sieve, and heat it again without boiling. Should the purée be too thick, add a 
little cream, and just before serving, two ounces of fine butter. 

Lima beans, broad beans and fresh white beans, are to be prepared and finished exactly the same. 


(716). PUREE OF GAME (Purée de Gibier), 


Remove one pound of cooked meat from either partridge, snipe, hare, grouse or wild duck, 
suppress all the skin and nerves, and pound the rest with a piece of butter, then rub it through a 
sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan, season it with salt, red pepper, and nutmeg, and mix in half 
a pint of reduced and very thick velouté (No. 415), if for white game, or a brown sauce (No. 414) 
for brown game; heat it without ceasing to stir and without letting it boil, and just when ready to 
serve, add two ounces of fine butter. Should a very thick purée be required, then pound the 
meats with a quarter of its quantity of boiled and very consistent rice, or else with some cooked 

game forcemeat (No. 62). 


(717), PUREE OF GARLIC (Purée d’Ail), 


Peel half a pound of garlic; cook it in plenty of salted water in a covered vessel, then 
drain and wipe off the moisture. Fry it for a few minutes over a brisk fire in a pan, with two 
ounces of butter, season with salt and pepper, and take it off and pound it; mix in a few 
spoonfuls of good, consistent bechamel (No. 409), and set this purée into a saucepan; heat it well 
without boiling; just before serving stir in apiece of butter and a little melted glaze (No. 401). 


(718), PUREE OF KOHL-RABIS (Purée de Choux-Raves). 


- Cut these vegetables in four, peel and blanch them for ten minutes, and finish cooking them 
in one quart of broth (No. 189); season with salt, and when the moistening is reduced, pound the 
kohl-rabis, adding to the pulp two pints of reduced velouté (No. 415), and two gills of cream; 
press well through a tammy (No. 170), and just when serving stir in two ounces of fresh butter. 


(719), PUREE OF LENTILS WITH CREAM (Purée de Lentilles 4 la Créme), 


Pick over and wash a pound and a half of lentils; place them in a saucepan with one quart of 
broth (No. 194a), a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, two ounces of blanched 
salt pork, one onion with a clove in it, and a few sliced carrots; when done, remove the pork, 
parsley, and carrots, and drain the lentils; pound them in a mortar, season with salt and nutmeg, 
and dilute the pulp with a gill of béchamel (No. 409) and cream, and add an ounce of butter when 
ready to serve. 


(720), PUREE OF LETTUCE (Purée de Laitues), 


Clean and remove the greenest leaves, and use the whitest of six lettuce heads (having two 
pounds after this is accomplished); blanch them in boiling salted water, then drain, and press them 
well to extract all the liquid; put them into a saucepan with one quart of broth (No. 194a), some 
salt and sugar, and two ounces of bread-crumbs; let the lettuce cook, reduce the liquid entirely, 
then pound it in a mortar, adding one pint of velouté (No. 415), and one tablespoonful of meat 
glaze (No. 401). Pass all through a tammy (No. 170), heat the purée and just when prepared to 
serve, incorporate into it two ounces of fresh butter. 


(721), PUREE OF LOBSTER (Purée de Homard), 

Have two pounds of cooked lobster meat; pound it in a mortar with four ounces of butter, 
season with salt and red pepper, and rub through a sieve, stirring into the pulp six gills of well 
reduced béchamel (No. 409), heat it well, and just when about serving beat in two ounces of fine 
lobster butter (No. 580); color it a pale red. 


346 THE EPICUREAN. 


(792), PUREE OF CULTIVATED AND WILD MUSHROOMS AND MORILS (Purée de 
Champignons Cultivés et de Prairies et de Morilles), 


For the Cultivated Mushroom Purée.—Peel a pound of mushrooms, wash them properly, and 
mince them finely, then put them into a saucepan with four ounces of butter, let them cook 
on a slow fire, and when nearly done, moisten them with two gills of velouté (No. 415), and 
the juice of alemon. Pound and pass them through a sieve, return them to the saucepan to heat 
without boiling, and finish with two ounces of fine butter. 

Purée of Wild Mushrooms.—Peel a pound of wild mushrooms, cut them up into squares and 
cook them in water, butter and lemon juice, in a saucepan closed hermetically; drain and pound to 
convert them to a paste, mixing in half their quantity of poached quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). 
Add a few spoonfuls of very thick béchamel (No. 409), and season with salt and sugar; press 
through a tammy, set the purée into a saucepan, and heat it well without boiling, and before 
serving stir in a little fine butter, and some cream should the purée be too thick. 


For the Morils.—Have two pounds of them; cut off the stalks and divide them in two; wash 
them in tepid water changing it several times, and when clean, drain, and mince them well. Wash 
them again in tepid water, and drain once more. Heat four ounces of butter in a sautoire, add 
the morils with lemon juice, and moisten with one pint of broth (No. 189), salt, and 
pepper; let boil for ten minutes, drain and pour off the top of the broth. Pound the morils, 
moisten them with this broth, adding a pint of béchamel (No. 409), a spoonful of meat glaze (No. 
401), and heat it well without boiling, finishing with two ounces of butter. 


(723), PUREE OF WHITE ONIONS SOUBISE AND PUREE OF ONIONS, BROWN (Purée d’Oignons 
Blancs Soubise et Purée d’Oignons Brune), 


For the first purée, mince a pound and a half of white onions, plunge them into boiling, salted 
water and let them parboil for ten minutes, drain them well and put them into a saucepan over a 
slow fire to allow the moisture to evaporate, add a little good stock and let reduce till dry, then 
pour in a pint of well thickened béchamel (No. 409), and reduce the preparation over a brisk fire 
until it becomes consistent. Season with salt and sugar, pass through a sieve and return it to the 
saucepan and heat the purée without letting it boil, adding a little melted meat glaze (No. 402). 

To make the brown purée, abstain from parboiling the onions, but instead, fry them very 
slowly until they assume a fine color, then mingle in a little espagnole (No. 414), and reduce till 
consistent; strain the purée, heat it once more and add to it a little melted glaze (No. 400). 


(724), PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS (Purée de Pois Secs), 


Wash well and drain one pound of dry split peas, set them in a saucepan with two quarts of 
velouté stock (No. 422), seasoning with salt and sugar, and adding half a pound of onions, a bunch 
of parsley garnished witha bay leaf, and twoounces of butter. Cook slowly, suppress the parsley, 
then drain and pound the peas in a mortar with a pint of béchamel (No. 409) added, press the 
whole through a tammy (No. 170), heat it well again, and just before serving incorporate into the 
purée two ounces of fine butter. 


(725). PUREE OF POTATOES (Purée de Pommes de Terre). 


Peel and wash two pounds of medium sized potatoes, put them into a saucepan with sufficient 
water to cover, and a little salt, let them boil till soft, then drain off the water and cover them 
with a wet cloth, set the lid on the saucepan and put them into a slack oyen for twelve minutes to 
steam. (They may be cooked by steam for half an hour, which is always preferable to boiling in 
water.) Rub them either through a sieve or pass them through the machine (Fig. 99a), and put 
this purée back into the saucepan; season, add a little sugar, then heat it up without boiling, 
stirring in half a pint of cream and two ounces of fine butter. 


(726), PUREE OF SWEET POTATOES (Purée de Patates). 


Suppress the ends of a pound and a half of small sweet potatoes, peel and cut them into 
pieces and fry them in some butter, moisten them to their height with stock (No. 189), and 
hen the potatoes are done and the moistening reduced, pound them in the mortar, seasoning with 


salt and nutmeg, and adding a gill of cream. Pass this purée through a tammy (No. 170), heat it 
well, and before serving, stir in two ounces of fine butter. 





GARNISHINGS. 347 


(727), PUREE OF PUMPKIN (Purée de Courge). 


Peel and cut a pound of pumpkin into three-quarter inch squares; fry them in four ounces of 
butter, then moisten them to their height with some stock (No. 194a), adding salt and sugar, and 
when thoroughly done and reduced, mash them well with half a pint of allemande sauce (No. 407), 
pass through a sieve, return to the saucepan, heat well, and just before serving, stir in two ounces. 
of fine butter. 


(728), PUREE OF SORREL (Purée d’Oseille), 


Pick and clean well one pound of sorrel leaves, and put them into a saucepan with a gill of 
water and some salt; dissolve while stirring with a spoon, and then pour it into a colander so as to. 
drain it properly; now rub it through a sieve. Prepare a little blond roux (No. 163) with one. 
ounce of butter and the same of flour, add to it the sorrel, and let it cook in thisfor a few moments 
without ceasing to stir; moisten with a little good gravy; let the purée reduce, and just when 
ready to serve, mix in a little fine butter and some meat glaze (No. 402). 


(729), PUREE OF SPINAOH OR OF OHICOORY (Purée d@'Epinards ou de Chicorée), 


Pick and wash the spinach leaves until very clean, having two pounds after this is done; cook 
them in boiling, salted water, and when they crush easily between the fingers, drain, refresh and 
drain them once more by pressing them well so as to. extract all the water. Pound them 
thoroughly in a mortar, set them in a saucepan to heat, and season with salt, nutmeg, and sugar; 
stir in a pint of velouté (No. 415), and two spoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 402), and strain through 
a fine sieve; return them to the saucepan to heat well and just when ready to serve incorporate 
into the purée four ounces of fine butter. 

The chiccory is to be prepared exactly the same as the spinach. 


(730), PUREE OF TOMATOES (Purée de Tomates). 


Cut in halves and press well, half a pound of tomatoes; fry two ounces of minced onions in two. 
_ ounces of butter without browning, then add the tomatoes, and cook till done, drain them well on. 
a hair sieve, press them through, and put this purée into a saucepan to heat again, stirring in. 
three ounces of kneaded butter (No. 579). Just before serving add two ounces of fresh butter. 


(731). PUREE OF TRUFFLES AND PUREE OF TRUFFLES WITH RICE (Purée de truffes et: 
Purée de Truffes au Riz), 


Peel a few good, raw truffles, half a pound in all; put the peelings into a saucepan with some. 
Madeira wine, cook them for a few minutes to extract the essence, then strain. Grate the truffles. 
and set them in a saucepan with a pint of béchamel (No. 409), and let them cook for five minutes, 
adding four ounces of poached quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Pound and rub the whole through a 
sieve; reduce the truffle essence with half a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), incorporating into. 
it slowly a few spoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402), and when sufficiently succulent and thick, 
pour it into the purée, heat this without allowing it to boil, remove it from the fire when ready- 
to serve and stir in two ounces of fine butter. 

Purée of Truffles with Rice.—Mince half a pound of cooked truffles, and then pound them 
with a quarter of a pound of rice boiled in white broth until very dry; season with salt, cayenne, 
and nutmeg, and pound this in a mortar adding one gill of velouté (No. 415), and a little cream. 
Press through a tammy (No. 170), heat, and finish with two ounces of fine butter. 


(732), PUREE OF TURNIPS (Purée de Navets). 


Peel, wash and mince two pounds of turnips; parboil them for ten minutes in boiling salted: 
water, drain, and fry them colorless in four ounces of butter; moisten with a quart of white stock 
(No. 422), seasoning with salt and sugar, and let cook slowly until the moistening be entirely re- 
duced, when they are done pound them, adding two pints of thick béchamel (No. 409); pass through 
a sieve, and warm the purée again, incorporating into it, two ounces of fine butter just before: 
serving. 


348 THE EPICUREAN. 


(733), CHICKEN OR GAME QUENELLES MOLDED IN A SPOON (Quenelles de Volaille et de Gibier 
Moulées & la Cuillére), 

To make these quenelles use either chicken or game quenelle forcemeat (No.89); prepare them 
as described in No. 155. Dress them around a remove, and cover with either a half-glaze sauce — 
(No. 413) made with the essence of game or else with velouté (No, 415). These quenelles can 
also be used by covering them with Villeroi sauce (No. 560), then bread-crumb and fry them to 


a fine color. 


(734), FISA QUENELLES MOLDED, POCKET CHICKEN QUENELLES, CHEESE QUENELLES 
(Quenelles de Poisson Moulées, Quenelles de Volaille & la Poche, Quenelles au Fromage), 


Use fish cream forcemeat (No. 76), finish exactly as quenelles in molds (No. 154), filling the 
center with a salpicon (No. 165) composed of mushrooms, truffles or shrimps mingled with alle- 
mande sauce (No. 407), serving allemande with mushroom essence (No. 408) apart. 


Decorated Quenelles, can be prepared in another manner; for these see decorated quenelles in 
Elementary Methods (No. 154), using a salpicon as for the above and serving the sauce 
separately. 

Pocket Quenelles or else with a Cornet.—Mix half fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), and half 
fish cream forcemeat (No. 76), then make the quenelles which are used generally for soups (No. 
239). These can also be made of game (No. 91) or chicken forcemeat (No. 89). 


Cheese Quenelles.—Pour into a saucepan three gills of water, three ounces of butter, a little 
salt and sugar; boil, then incorporate seven ounces of sifted flour, work it well until dry, add © 
enough eggs to bring the preparation to the consistency of forcemeat, two ounces of grated par- 
mesan, and six ounces of lean ham cut in small eighth of inch squares; roll this paste on a floured 
table into half inch diameter strings and cut them into half inch lengths; roll each one olive 
shaped, flatten to half, plunge them into boiling water, and poach for ten minutes without boiling; 
drain in a colander, then on a cloth. Range them in a vegetable dish in layers, bestrewing each 
one with grated parmesan, and basting with not too thick béchamel (No. 409), reduced with cream; 
cover and dredge the top with grated parmesan, then bake for fifteen minutes in a slack oven. — 
Serve this garnishing with a remove of roast beef or mutton only leaving it in the vegetable dish. 


(735), GODIVEAU OF VEAL, OF PIKE, CHICKEN OR GAME QUENELLES (Quenelles de 
Godiveau de Veau, de Brochet, de Volaille ou de Gibier), i 

Prepare the quenelles either with veal (No. 85) pike (No. 88) or else of chicken godiveau 
(No. 82), young rabbit or any other game. Divide it into several parts, then roll into strings 
three-quarters of an inch thick on to a table dredged with flour and cut them into inch 
lengths, roll and lengthen to the shape of a quenelle an inch and a half long. Poach in boiling, 
saited water. Veal godiveau quenelles are covered with Madeira Spanish sauce (No. 414), those 
of pike with béchamel (No. 409), those of chicken with supréme (No. 547) and those of game with 
demi-glaze (No. 413). 


(736), RAMISOLLE GARNISHING (Garniture de Ramisolles), 


Soak fourteen ounces of fresh bread-crumbs in some milk for one-half hour, then extract well 
all the liquid. Remove the skin from eight ounces of cooked chicken meat, eight ounces of 
raw chicken livers and three ounces of truffles; all being finely chopped up. Fry in one ounce 
of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped shallots or onions, before they attain a color, add to 
them the raw chicken livers and fry both together, then throw in the chicken and truffles, season- 
ing with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and lastly add the bread-crumbs, let it all get very hot, then 
cool it off slightly and beat in six egg-yolks. Lay this preparation between two pancakes, cut into 
desirable pieces, dip them each in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs and fry. A Madeira sauce 
(No. 492) accompanies this garnishing. i 


(737), RIGE GARNISHING INDIAN STYLE AND WITH BUTTER (Garniture de Riz & l’Indienne 
et au Beurre), 

Rice makes an excellent garnishing, and is adapted for the use of many meats, fish, poultry 

and game. Fat rice is served with poultry, and is merely rice cooked in chicken broth or soup 

stock (No, 194a), slightly fat; it should be rather more consistent than otherwise, but at the same 


time tender or soft: it is finished with a little nutmeg, and sometimes with a handful of grated 
parmesan cheese. 





GARNISHINGS. 340 


Rice, Indian Style, is served likewise as a garnishing for chicken or veal, and is prepared 
with fine Indian rice, its grains being long, white and whole; in case none of this can be procured, 
then take Carolina rice. Plunge it into a bountiful supply of boiling water after picking and 
washing it, and as soon as it no longer cracks between the teeth, then drain it through a colander, 
and wash it off with salted tepid water, spread it over a large sieve, cover with a cloth, and leave it 
to dry for a few moments at the oven door, then dress it in a vegetable dish, cover and serve. 


Rice with Butter.—Blanch some rice for five or six minutes, drain and wash it off with tepid 
water, then leave it to dry on acloth. Put two spoonfuls of chopped onion into a saucepan, leave 
it to fry in some butter, and then add to it the rice; when it is very hot, moisten with white stock 
(No. 194a), and leave it to finish cooking on a good fire, keeping it slightly firm, set it to smother 
for a few moments at the oven door, then remove it, and beat up into it with a fork, a good sized 
piece or butter. Dress the rice in a vegetable dish, cover it with a small napkin previously 
dampened in hot water, put the cover on the dish and serve. 


(738), RICHELIEU GARNISHING, ANCIENT AND MODERN (Garniture Richelieu, Ancienne et 
Moderne), 


Ancient.—Eighteen medium sized onions (each one weighing an ounce), stuffed with chicken 
forcemeat a la Soubise (No. 89). Six ounces of cock’s-combs, eight ounces of escalops of foies-gras 
(No. 2279). To be served with champagne sauce separate (No. 445). 

Modern.—Six ounces of pear-shaped blanched carrots, six ounces of cauliflower, six ounces of 
green peas, six ounces of string beans, six ounces of asparagus tops, six ounces of potato balls, six 
ounces of mushrooms, eight stuffed lettuces and eight stuffed tomatoes. Dress these in separate 
groups and serve separately a demi-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(739), PIEDMONTESE RISOT GARNISHING (Garniture de Risot Piémontaise), 


Risot can be employed either as a soup ora garnishing; the manner to prepare it is most 
simple. Put into a saucepan two spoonfuls of chopped up onion, let it fry to a nice golden color 
in some butter, and add to it a pint of clean but unwashed Piedmont rice; cook it for two minutes. 
while stirring, and then moisten with three pints of broth, cook it again for twenty minutes without 
touching it; by this time the rice ought not to be too much done, but the liquid nearly all absorbed; 
remove it from the fire, and finish simply by incorporating into it about a quarter of a pound 
of good butter, a very little at the time, using a two pronged fork (Fig. 175) for stirring, and two 
handfuls of grated parmesan cheese, also some cayenne pepper. If the rice be of good quality 
and properly cooked, it requires no further seasoning; cover it for five or six minutes, and then 
dress it in a vegetable dish, and dredge over some more parmesan. Risot prepared in tins way 
may be placed in large timbale moids, or else in a border mold, first brushing the inside over 
with some melted glaze. If desired the cheese may be served separately instead of mixed with 
the rice. 


(740), ROTHSCHILD GARNISHING AND COCKS'-KIDNEYS VILLEROI (Garniture Rothschild et 
Rognons de coq 4 la Villeroi). 


This garnishing is composed of eighteen kidneys a la Villeroi, nine game quenelles made in a 
dessertspoon (No. 155), nine escalops of sweetbreads, nine escalops of smoked ham cut from the 
lean part and pared into half-hearts, nine escalops of foies-gras the same shape and size as the ham, 
and eighteen small whole truffles. Dress these ingredients in clusters, and serve with a brown 
Madeira sauce (No. 492), to which has been added a little game glaze (No. 398), one-half to be 
poured over the garnishing, and the rest to be served separately. Serve the cocks’-kidneys apart. 

Cocks’-Kidneys Villerot.—Simply poach the kidneys by putting them into a colander, and 
plunging into boiling water until they are poached and firm, then drain and cover with a Villeroi 
sauce (No. 560), let get cold, dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and then fry to a fine 
color, and serve on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley on top, and quartered lemons 
around. 


(741), SALPICON GARNISHING (Garniture Salpicon). 


A salpicon is composed of several meats cut in three-sixteenths to one-quarter inch dice, 
and combined with truffles and mushrooms trimmed exactly the same. It is used either with 
a brown espagnole sauce (No. 414), or if a white sauce is desired, with a veloute (No. 415), 
or an allemande (No. 407). The salpicon should be mixed with the sauces mentioned in each recipe. 


Bs 


50 THE EPICUREAN. 





(742). SALPICON GARNISHING, COLUMBIAN (Garniture Salpicon, Colombienne), 

Is composed of sixteen ounces of mushrooms, four ounces of roast game fillets, six ounces of 

lambs’ fries. and if for fat, a fat financiére sauce (No. 464), and if required for lean, use twelve 

blanched and well drained oysters cut in pieces and sautéd in butter, with six ounces of mush- 
rooms, six ounces of salmon sautéd in butter, and with these use a lean financiére sauce. 


(743), FAT LIVER SALPICON (Salpicon de Foies-Gras), 


Braise fourteen ounces of fat duck’s or geese livers in a matignon (No. 406) (this is their 
weight after being cooked), leave them to get cold, and then cut them up into small dice, also four 
ounces of truffles, and two of ham. Serve with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(744), FLAVIGNAN SALPICON (alpicon @ la Flavignan), 


Stir into a pint of Flavignan sauce (No. 466), two ounces of spinal marrow and three ounces 
of brains cooked in acidulated water, seasoned with salt and whole peppers, and garnished with 
aromatie herbs, thyme, bay leaf, parsley leaves, and onions. Boil together for fifteen minutes, 
then let them get cold in this broth, afterward cutting them in quarter of an inch squares. Have 
also four ounces of braised sweetbreads cut in squares; four ounces of cooked ham, and four ounces 
of cooked mushrooms, all prepared the same. 


(745). HUNTER’S SALPIOON (Salpicon au Chasseur), 


Is composed of roasted game breasts cut in three-sixteenth inch dice pieces, truffles cut the 
same, as well as mushrooms and tongue, and chicken livers cut up in one-quarter inch pieces, 
mixed with a Hunter’s sauce (No. 480). 


(746), LOBSTER, SHRIMP OR CRAWFISH, WITH MUSHROOM OR TRUFFLE SALPIOON 


(Salpicon de Homard, d'Ecrevisses ou de Crevettes, aux Champignons ou aux Truffes), 

Take from the thickest part of the tails, sixteen ounces of cooked lobster meat, or 
shrimps, or crawfish, and four ounces of mushrooms, both cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch — 
dice; have one pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream and thickened at the last 
moment with two ounces of fresh butter. 

With Truffles.—Suppress the mushrooms and add two ounces of truffles cut the size and 
shape as the mushrooms. 


(747), MONTGLAS SALPICON Salpicon a la Montglas), 


Made with four ounces of truffles, eight ounces of mushrooms, eight ounces of red beef tongue 
and eight ounces of chicken or game livers, all cut into small sticks; if needed fora white salpicon 
garnishing, then mix these with either a velouté (No. 415), or supréme sauce (No. 547), or alle- 
mande (No. 407), and if for brown then use espagnole (No. 414), or chicken glaze (No. 398), with 
essence of mushroom (No. 392). és 


(748). PALERMITAINE SALPICON (Galpicon 4 la Palermitaine), 


To be prepared with five ounces of small macaroni cut in half inch lengths, five ounces of part- 
ridge breast, five ounces of artichokes in quarter inch squares, and three of ham in three-sixteenth 
inch squares; all these ingredients to be mixed with a turtle sauce (No. 552). 


(749), PREVILLOT SALPICON (Salpicon & la Prévillot). 


Have eight ounces of fresh raw mushrooms, twelve ounces of egg-plant and one ounce of 
onions all cut into small squares; place three ounces of butter in a saucepan to heat, then lay in the 
onions to fry lightly first, add the egg-plant and later the mushrooms with a mite of garlic. 


Moisten with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and white wine, despumate, reduce and lastly add some 
hopped parsley. 


(750). REGENCE SALPICON (Salpicon & la Régence). 


for Lean.—Use four ounces of truffles cut in three sixteenth inch squares, six ounces of mush- 
ooms cut the same, six ounces of crawfish tails likewise cut in three-sixteenth inch pieces, four 


nces of milt, and four ounces of very small bead-shaped fish quenelles, all to be combined with 
‘an régence sauce (No. 582). 





: 3 GARNISHINGS. ; 351 


For Fat.—Five ounces of braised sweetbreads, five ounces of chicken livers and five ounces of 
mushrooms, all these to be cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, five ounces of small bead-shaped 
_ ehicken quenelles (No. 154), and four ounces of trufiles cut the same as the other ingredients; to 
be used with a fat régence sauce (No. 582). 


(751), ROYAL SALPICON (alpicon & la Royale), 


For Fat.—Ten ounces of mushrooms cut in three-sixteenth inch Squares, ten ounces of white 
chicken meat cut the same, and four ounces of truffles cut the same. To be used with a fat 
supréme sauce (No. 547). 

for Lean.—Ten ounces of lobster, ten ounces of mushrooms and four of truffles, all cut up in 
three-sixteenth inch squares, mixed with a lean béchamel sauce (No. 411), finished at the last 
moment with crawfish (No. 578) or lobster butter (No. 580) and cream. 


(752), TURBIGO SALPICON (Salpicon a la Turbigo), 


Have eight ounces of artichoke bottoms cut in one-quarter inch squares and the same of braised 
ducks’ livers cut the same size, and cooked in a mirepoix (No. 419) with four ounces of three- 
sixteenth inch squares of truffles. A fine strained tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with twice its 
quantity of velouté (No. 415) and thickened with cream and egg-yolks. 


(753), TURTLE SALPICON (Salpicon Tortue), 


for Fat.—¥our ounces of truffles cut in three-sixteenth inch squares; ten ounces of the gela- 
tinous part of calf’s head cut in quarter inch squares, six of sweetbreads the same, and four of 
tongue also cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. Mix with a turtle sauce (No. 552). 

For lean.—Four ounces of truffles cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, ten of green turtle cut 
in one-quarter inch squares, six of mushrooms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and four 
ounces of hard boiled egg-yolk quenelles, in the shape of small beads, a turtle sauce (No. 552) 
with tomatoes sauce (No. 549) prepared lean. 


(754), SAUSAGE GARNISHINGS (Garnitures de Saucisses), 

Large broiled sausages one and a quarter inches in diameter are served as a garnishing, after 
removing their skins and cutting them across into quarter inch thick slices. 

For Chipolata Garnishing use small thin sausages an inch and a half long sautéd and served 
with Madeira wine. 

For Lubeck Garnishing, fry them in the pan with some chicken fat und use with a thick 
gravy (No. 405). | 

Strasburg Smoked Sausages are small smoked ones poached for a few minutes in boiling 
water and served without any sauce whatever. 


(755), SCALLOP SHELLS FOR RELEVES GARNISHING (Garniture de Coquilles de Pétoncles ou 
Coquilles St, Jacques Pélerines Pour Relevés), 

These shells must be chosen the smallest kind and of equal size. They may be filled with a 
preparation for shells, St. Jacques (No. 1079), or havraise (1075), or brestoise (1874); smooth well 
the tops, dust over with white bread-crumbs and a little grated cheese, besprinkle with a little 
butter and bake them in a hot oven. This garnishing is easy to serve, and has one great 
advantage; that of being able to prepare it in advance. 


(756). SPANISH SWEET PEPPERS SAUTED, GARNISHING (Garniture de Piments Doux 
d’Espagne Sautés), 

These peppers are imported from Spain or Havana; select those that are fresh and with thick 
meat. Put them onthe broiler or in the oven, until they soften, and the skin peels off, remove, 
and open them; suppress all the hard parts and skin; sauté them in oil with some chopped onions 
and mushrooms, seasoning with salt, pepper, and fine herbs. If fresh Spanish sweet peppers cannot 
be procured, then take the preserved ones; they are already prepared in cans and only need 
draining to have them ready for use. 


352 THE EPICUREAN. . 


(757), SPINAL MARROW GARNISHING (Garniture d'Amourettes). — | 7 


Calf’s spinal marrow is preferable to beef’s. Put three pounds of calf’s spinal marrow to 
soak in cold water for three hours, changing the water each hour; then remove the thin sanguineous. 
skin covering them and trim them. Cook them for a few minutes in a little salted water with some: 
vinegar, parsley leaves, thyme, bay leaf, whole peppers, and sliced onions; pour it all into a bowl 
and let the marrow get cold in the stock, then cut them up into pieces two inches long. Bread- 
crumb half of these, dip them in egg, and fry them until they acquire a good color. Drain and 
wipe well the other half, sauté them in butter, seasoning with salt, pepper, and fine herbs. A. 
Colbert sauce (No. 451), accompanies this garnishing served in a separate sauce-boat. 


(758). STRAWS CHEESE GARNISHING (Garniture de Pailles au Fromage), 


Prepare seven ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, and four ounces of grated cheese, four: 
tablespoonfuls of raw cream, two egg-yolks, a dash of cayenne, and a grain of salt. First rub well 
between the two hands, the butter and flour, so as to have them sandy; then lay this in a ring on 
the table, and into the center pour the cream, egg-yolks, cheese, pepper, and salt; make the dough 
using for this purpose the blade of a knife so as not to heat the paste, and when well mingled, roll 
it out into a square piece the thickness of one-eighth of an inch. Cut this into bands two: 
and three-quarter inches wide, and cut these again across into ribbons as wide as their thickness; 
roll them with the hands on the floured table to give each one a round shape, then range them at. 
once on to a buttered baking sheet, clip off their ends together so as to have them all of equal 
length, and egg the surfaces. Cook these straws for seven or eight minutes in a slack oven, then. 
take them out and detach them from the sheet with the blade of a knife, and return them at once to. 
the oven to finish cooking, a few minutes being sufficient for this purpose. Serve them on folded. 
napkins. 


(759), SMALL SWISS CHEESE SOUFFLE GARNISHING (Garniture de Petits Soufflés au Fromage 
Suisse), 


Butter twelve hollow tartlet molds; fill them to almost their height with a cheese soufflé 
preparation (No. 2984) not too light. Range these molds in a sautoire with a little hot water, and 
let them poach in a slack oven for sixteen to eighteen minutes without allowing the water to boil. 
After removing them from the oven, unmold on a deep buttered silver dish; dredge over some 
grated parmesan cheese in sucha way that the tops of all the small loaves are well covered; a quarter 
of an hour before serving, pour over some good raw cream so that they float in the liquid to about 
half their height, then place them in a moderate oven to let them absorb the cream, 


souffiéing them slightly and coloring them at the same time. Serve the instant they leave the: 
oven. 


(760), TARTLETS A LA PARMENTIER (Tartelettes & la Parmentier), 

Roll out thin some timbale paste (No. 150), and line some small hollow tartlet molds. Pre- 
pare a little purée of potatoes the same as for Duchess potatoes (No. 2785), keeping it rather stiff, 
and mix with it egg-yolks, butter, dnd parmesan cheese; with this fill the tartlet molds, having 
previously pricked the paste with the tip of a small knife, press the potatoes down welland smooth - 


the top; butter it over, and besprinkle with grated parmesan, then put them into a moderate oven 
to cook. Unmold and serve. 


(761), TARTLETS OF NOQUES WITH PARMESAN GARNISHING (Garniture de Tartelettes de: 
Noques au Parmesan), | 


Line some large tartlet molds with fine paste (No. 135) and prick the paste. Prepare a pate-a- 
chou with cheese (No. 182), lay it on a floured table and divide it into several pieces; roll them with 
(he hands into strings the thickness of macaroni, then cut them across into pieces the same length 
as their thickness; place them on a sieve containing a little flour, and toss them so that they form 
into small balls, then plunge these balls into boiling, salted water. Let the water boil up twice, 

t them on one side of the range until the paste is well poached, and then drain them through a. 
colander. Put on the fire to reduce two or three gills of good béchamel (No. 409), incorporating 
‘nfo it slowly a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth and some raw cream; when well thickened 
‘ish with few spoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402), take it from the fire and throw in the noques;. 
ict simmer for five minutes on a very slow fire, and then add butter and parmesan cheese, and a 








GARNISHINGS. 853 


little grated nutmeg, fill the tartlet molds with this preparation; smooth the surface neatly and 


dredge a little parmesan on top, bake them in the oven for a quarter of an hour, unmold the 
tartlets and serve them exceedingly hot. . 


(762), POLENTA TARTLETS (Tartelettes de Polenta), 


Boil a quart of water, then add to it three-quarters of a quart of polenta letting it fall like 
rain into the boiling liquid. Gook it on the fire while stirring unceasingly, and incorporate into it, 
three ounces of butter, three ounces of parmesan and six egg-yolks. Fillsmall tartlet molds lined 
with fine paste (No. 135) with this preparation, leaving a hole in the center and filling it in with 
salpicon Previllot (No. 749); cover the whole with polenta, smooth the top, besprinkle with butter 
and dredge over grated parmesan, and then cook them nicely in a moderate oven. 


(763), SEMOLINO TARTLETS (Lartelettes & la Semoule). 


Line some tartlet molds with fine paste (No. 135), cook in a pint and a half of bouillon (No. 
187), half a pound of semolino, with two ounces of butter, the same of grated parmesan and two 
whole eggs, and fill the molds-with this preparation, leaving an empty space in-the center to fill 
in with a Columbian salpicon (No. 742), cover over with :some semolino preparation, pour over 
some butter, bestrew grated parmesan on top and cook in,a slow oven. 


‘ea 


(764), SPINACH TARTLETS (Tartelettes aux Epinards). 


Line the small tartlet molds with a thin foundation paste (No. 185), prick the bottom, pick 
and wash one pound of spinach, parboil it in salted water in an untinned copper vessel, and 
when the leaves crush easily between the fingers, drain, refresh and drain it once more, press it 
well between the hands to extract all the water, and weigh one pound of it, then chop it up 
finely, and put it into a saucepan over a quick fire with four ounces of butter added, leave it to 
dry for a few minutes, then thicken it with one tablespoonful of flour, moistening with two gills of 
cream. When cold add two ounces of parmesan, two ounces of butter, eight egg-yolks and four 
whites beaten to a stiff froth; mix together thoroughly and fill up the molds; finish cooking them 
in a slack oven. 


(765), TARTLETS WITH CREAM AND PARMESAN CHEESE GARNISHING (Garniture de 
Tartelettes 4 la Créme au Parmesan), 


Roll out a timbale paste (No. 150), very thin, and with it line some large, flat tartlet molds; 
prick the bottom paste and strew over some grated parmesan cheese, and in the center of each one: 
lay a small pat of butter. Beat up in a bowl, five raw egg-yolks, dilute with one pint of raw cream, 
add a grain of salt, a pinch of flour, a pinch of sugar, some pepper, strain, and add a handful of 
grated parmesan; then pour it into the lined molds so as to fill them up, set these molds on a 
baking sheet, and push them carefully into a slack oven to let cook for fifteen minutes, more or 
less according to the size of the molds; leave them at the warm oven door for five minutes, 
then unmold quickly and dress them on folded napkins or around a remove. 


(766). TOULOUSE GARNISHING (Garniture Toulouse). 


Have eight ounces of truffles cut either into balls or else minced, and cooked in a little Madeira 
wine; add to these truffles, sixteen mushroom heads, eight turned and the other eight fluted 
(No. 118) twelve pretty cocks’-combs, and twelve cocks’-kidneys. Dress in clusters both the truffles 
and the other ingredients, and cover the whole with a buttered velouté sauce (No. -415) or clear 
chicken half-glaze (No. 389). Serve separately some of the same sauce. 


(767), TRUFFLE GARNISHING (Garniture de Truffes). 


Raw truffles to be used whole for garnishings should be first peeled, then cooked for eight or 
ten minutes in some good Madeira. In case there be no fresh truffles on hand, then use the pre- 
served ones which are considered excellent. For garnishing with truffles, cut them in slices, or 
olive shaped, or in quarters, or in small sticks, or else left whole; minced truffles are also used, 
prepared by cutting them into thin slices and sautéing them in butter and oil over a brisk fire; 
season and finish with a little Madeira or supréme sauce, or even chicken glaze ( No. 398) or half- 
glaze (No. 400) well reduced and buttered. 


354 7 THE EPICUREAN. 


(768). TURTLE GARNISHING (Garniture Tortue). 


The turtle garnishing for meat removes is composed of lamb’s sweetbreads or else small calf’s 
sweetbreads, larded and braised; of brains cut into three-quarter inch pieces, bread-crumbed 
and fried; small peeled truffles cooked in Madeira wine, mushroom heads, quenelles made with a ° 
teaspoon (No. 155), egg quenelles composed of hard boiled egg-yolks, pounded with a little but- 
ter, some fine herbs and raw yolks, pickled gherkins cut into small balls, stoned and blanched 
olives, calves’ palates, and crawfish 4 la Bordelaise (No. 1008). 

Put into a saucepan some turtle sauce (No. 552), add the peeled truffles, mushrooms, Bese ts: 
-pickles, olives, egg-quenelles, and palates; mix well together and ies this garnishing, 
decorating around with the crawfish, brains, and the larded and glazed sweetbreads. Serve 
a turtle sauce (No. 552) with Madeira separately. . 

For a Lean Turtle Garnishing.—Make it of fish quenelles (No. 90), hard-boiled egg 
quenelles, mushroom heads, pickled gherkins cut in balls, stoned and blanched olives, and large 
crawfish. The lean turtle sauce to accompany it should be reduced with fish essence (No. 388). 


(769). WINGS OF TURKEY OR PULLET A LA VILLEROI GARNISHING (Garniture d’Ailerons 
de Dinde ou de Poularde 4 la Villeroi), 


Singe turkey or pullet wings and bone them as far as the joint, season with salt and pepper, 
and fill in the empty space with a little quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine herbs, laying 
it in through a cornet and pushing the skin into the cut side so as to well enclose the force- 
meat. They may be sewn with coarse thread, and then blanched and drained. Remove the 
feather stubs carefully and put the wings into a saucepan lined with bardes of salt pork, and 
covered with some mirepoix stock (No. 419). Lay more slices of pork on top of the wings and let 
them cook slowly for one hour or more; drain, pare, lay them in a bowl, pour the mirepoix stock 
over, and leave to get cold; then take them out and cover them with a villeroi sauce No. 560), 
‘with some chopped mushrooms added. Dipin beaten egg, and bread-crumbs, and fry a fine color. 


(770). YORKSHIRE PUDDING GARNISHING (Garniture de Pouding Yorkshire) 


Dilute in a bowl, half a pound of flour with one pint of milk, and five whole eggs, salt, and 
four ounces of melted butter, keeping the paste liquid; strain it through a sieve. Cover a raised 
edged baking pan with a layer of melted butter or fat, pour in the preparation, having it a quarter 
of an inch high, set it in a slow oven, and half an hour after turn it over, and cook the other side 
for another half hour. When done cut it into squares or lozenges and serve it as agarnishing. A 
thickened gravy (No. 405) should be served at the same time. 


SIDE DISHES. 
COLD SIDE DISHES (Hors-d’Cuvre Froids), 


Hors-d’ceuvre, or side dishes, signifies out of the work, they having no place on the bill 
of fare. They are certain appetizing dishes placed on the table before dinner, remaining on in 
the Russian service, until the dessert; in the French service they pass round a few hors-d’ceuvre 
after the soup, such as melons, olives, radishes, celery, figs, artichokes, canapés,ete. 


In Russia the hors-d’cuvre is highly appreciated, and as in the Russian service the removes, 
entrées and roasts do not appear on the table, which should be handsomely decorated with all kinds 
of hors-d’ceuvre so as to make an elegant display. In formal dinners they serve in another apart- 
ment close to the dining-room, a table spread with a variety of side dishes; they also serve at the 
same time kiimmel, brandy, vermouth, absinthe, gin, etc. 


(771), ALLIGATOR PEARS (Avocats), 


Originally from South America. Select the fruit when very ripe, peel off the outer green skin, 
and cut the pear in slices, range them on a side dish, season with salt, pepper and vinegar, and 
garnish around with slices of lemon cut in halves. 


(772), ANCHOVIES—SARDELS—ANCHOVY SALAD AND ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES, (Anchois 
et Salade d’Anchois, Anchois aux Olives), 


Anchovies from Marseilles and Italy are considered very fine, their meat being red and of an 
exquisite taste, yet, in New York, the white meat anchovies imported from Holland called Sardels 
are preferred. Wash them well, changing the water frequently, then let them soak; afterward 
drain and wipe well with a dry cloth to remove the fine white skin covering these fishes, divide them 
in two lengthwise, remove the middle bone, and pare well the fillets, cut off their ends square, hav- 
ing them all of equal length, and then lay them in small jars and cover over with oil, to use when 
needed. Drain and arrange them symmetrically on side dishes, and garnish either with parsley, 
chervil or chopped tarragon, sprinkle over a dash of vinegar and some good oil, garnish with 
chopped hard boiled eggs, or else quartered eggs and slices of green lemon cut in halves. 


Anchovies with Olives.—When the anchovies are prepared as for the above, pare them on 
one side, and remove a little of the ends, then roll them over a round stick of wood five- 
eighths of an inch in diameter, so that an olive can be inserted in the center. The olives should 
be stoned with a small cylindrical cutter, and the empty space filled with hard boiled egg-yolks 
rubbed through a fine sieve, or else some anchovy butter (No. 569). Range them symmetrically 
and sprinkle over a little good sweet oil. 


(773), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS PRINTANIER, SMALL APPETITE, SMALL RAW POIVRADE 
(Fonds d’Artichauts Printaniers, Petit Appétit, Petits crus Poivrade), 


It is necessary to have small artichoke bottoms; remove the green part covering the bottoms - 
and all the leaves until the stringy core is reached; pare the bottoms to have them very round 
and even, and rub them as quickly as they are done with half a lemon, then throw them into 
cold water. Blanch them until the core or choke can be easily removed, then cook them in water, 
butter, lemon juice, and salt; drain and make incisions in the bottom, and marinate them for one 
hour in a seasoning of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, then drain them. Garnish them with a 
small vegetable macédoine (No. 680), well seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and mayonnaise, 


then dress them on a side dish. 
(355) 


356 THE EPICUREAN. 


For Small Appetite, instead of the macédoine, take some small green chiccory, wash it wel? 
and add to it some chopped chervil and tarragon; season with sait, pepper, oil, and vinegar, dress. 
and decorate the tops with small anchovy fillets. 

Small Artichokes, Poivrade.—Choose small, freshly gathered artichokes, green and tender; 
trim the bottoms, rub them with lemon, and remove two or three rows of the hardest leaves, place: 
the artichokes at once into cold acidulated water, and when ready to serve, drain and lay them ona 
side dish with clean pieces of ice set around. Serve in a separate sauce-boat, a French dressing: 
made with salt, pepper, vinegar, oil, and mustard. 


(774), BEETS (Betteraves), 


Select. very red beets without being stringy; cook them either in water, or by steam, or else- 
in the oven; do not cut off either the stalk or root until ready to use. Peel and put them: into an 
earthen or stone crock, and cover them over with vinegar. They may also be seasoned with salt: 
and cloves, or else salt and carraway seeds. Cut them in slices and arrange on a side dish, pour- 
ing a little vinegar over. Sg pik, eR ie cio : 


; ‘weer fe. bh Syaoe ee Se 
1 ptets 2 2203 pir 


(775), BUTTER FRESH MOLDED (Bewrre Frais Moulé) | 
. The butter must. be of the very best quality, without a particle of salt, and used the same day 
it is made. ho SSR ae ei . ae | 
For Shells.—Grate with a table knife a piece of firm but not too hard butter; when there is: 


sufficient on the blade of the knife, remove it with the finger to place it immediately on a. 
butter dish or in ice water. 


For Pats.—Divide a pound of butter into sixteen equal parts, or one ounce for each. The 
butter must be well worked, neither too soft nor too. 
hard; set it into cold water, with two grooved wooden. 
pallets lift out a piece of butter the size of a ball half an. 
inch in diameter, press the butter between the two pallets, 
turn it round lightly, and remove the surplus with the 
first finger of the right hand; when a pat is formed, take- 
it out and throw it into cold water. : 
Fie. 199. For Vermicelli Butter.—Put butter not too hard into: 
a machine called a butter syringe, having a tin perfor- 
ated sheet with holes three thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter; push the butter through. 
these so that it falls into the water. . 





To Serve it in Small Stone Pots.—F¥ill some small gray stone pots with butter and cover 
with pieces of fine maislin; these are placed as they are on the table. Butter is often served, 
drained, and laid on grape leaves, or simply in butter dishes with small pieces of very clean ice: 
around. is ae rod Lym 7 


(776). RED AND WHITE CABBAGE, ENGLISH STYLE, AND MARINATED CAULIFLOWER. 
(Choux Rouges et Choux Blancs & l’Anglaise et Choux-Fleurs Marinés), 


Cut either a white or red cabbage in four, remove the core and hard parts of the leaves, cut 
the latter up very fine, and lay them ina vessel with a handful of salt for each cabbage; turn 
them over every day, and at the end of four days, drain them, and put them into a stone jar, pour- 
ing over the cabbage some good, boiling vinegar, add a few cloves, some ginger, small blanched 
onions, red peppers; and grated horseradish root; a few days later the cabbage may be served as. 
a hors-(’ceuvre, laying it in side dishes. , 


z For Marinated Cauliflower.-—Choose white and hard cauliflowers, cut off all the leaves and 
divide the flower into small clusters; remove the core, pare them nicely, and range them into @ 
ae! tenn tinned Saucepan. Cover with cold water, boil up the liquid, then add salt, and let them 
boul Tor ten minutes; now remove the cauliflowers, lay them in cold water, drain, and set in glass. 
Jars or clse stone crocks; cover them with white vinegar, add cloves, salt, red peppers, tarragon, 
mace, anc mustard seed, all of these tied in a small bag, and leave to marinate for about four days; 
v hen needed, range them onside dishes, and pour over a little of the vinegar in which they 
marinated. A mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), may be passed round the same time as the cauliflower. 





SIDE DISHES. 357 


(177. CANAPES, WINDSOR, ANCHOVY, SARDINES, OAVIARE, RUSSIAN HERRING, 
SMOKED SALMON OR STURGEON, DEVILED HERRING, SHRIMP, CRAWFISH, 
LOBSTER, ANCHOVY BUTTER, RED BEEF TONGUE OR HAM, OAREME AND 
HARD-BOILED EGGS (Canapés Windsor, aux Anchois, aux Sardines, aux Caviar, aux 
Harengs a la Russe, de Saumon ou d'Esturgeon, de Harengs & la Diable, de Crevettes 


d’Ecrevisses, de Homards, au Beurre d’Anchois, a la Langue Ecarlate ou au Jambon, & 
la Oaréme et d’Gufs Durs), 


These canapés can be arranged on grape leaves or a folded napkin. Cut slices of bread from 
the crumb of a dense loaf of bread containing no holes, having them all of uniform size, the same 
as wher preparing sandwiches; the oblong ones three and one-half by one and one-half inches and 
three-sixteenths of an inch thick; the round ones two and 
one-half inches in diameter and the same thickness; the 
oval ones three inches long by two and one-fourth inches ($2 lows 
wide, and the same thickness as the round and oblong “Wigs amg 
ones. Toast lightly, and butter over either with butter Fic. 201. 
mixed with anchovy essence or simply with plain butter; 
season with salt, mustard and red pepper, and push through a cornet on to the borders a string 
of anchovy butter, or any other kind, such as lobster (No. 580), Montpellier (No. 582), ete. Garn- 
ish or cover the empty space in the center. 





ii Se, 
























































Fic. 202. | Fig. 203. 


For Windsor Canapés.—Have half a pound of cold chicken white meat; pound it with a 
quarter of a pound of cooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of cooked tongue; when the meats are 
reduced to a paste, add to it one pound of butter, two ounces of grated Chester cheese, a spoonful 
of English mustard, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Cut oval-shaped slices of bread (Fig. 200), 
toast them on both sides, let get cold, and then cover them with the above preparation; 
smooth the surface and decorate with fillets of gherkins, and beets to form lozenges; lay capers in 
the intersections, and on top some half-set jelly, and dress the canapés on folded 
napkins. 


For Anchovy Canapés.—These are made round-shaped; butter them over with fresh butter, 
Season with salt, pepper and mustard, and arrange the anchovy fillets, in the form of a rosette 
with a border around; garnish between the anchovies with chopped parsley and egg-yolks rubbed 
through a sieve, and hard boiled egg-whites chopped up very fine (Fig. 201). 


~ For Sardine Canapés.—Spread on one side of an oblong toast, Montpellier butter (No.- 582), 
garnish the top with sardines, first removing the skin and bones, and then garnish between these 
with chopped yolks and whites of egg, and some chopped parsley. Decorate by placing a piece 
of sardine lengthwise on the canapé and six smaller pieces set at an angle (Fig. 202). 


For Caviare Canapés.—Make the canapés oblong shape. as explained above; the border to be of 
fresh butter. If the caviare should be too hard, work in with it some oil and lemon juice; fill the 
empty center with this caviare, and around the inside border, and on top of the caviare lay a row 
of very finely chopped raw onions (Fig. 203). 


For Russian Herring Canapés.—Remove the fillets from unsalted herrings; wipe off the white 
skin with a cloth and suppress the middle bone, then cut them into small fillets. Have a sour 
apple peeled and chopped finely, mix it in with some sour cream, butter some oblong slices of 
bread with fresh butter, garnish the tops with a layer of the chopped apple, and on this arrange 
the herring fillets, one row around the edge and two lengthwise of the canapés, garnish between 
the fillets with capers and chopped egg whites and yolks (Fig. 204). 


For Smoked Salmon or Sturgeon Canapés.—Cut either of these fish into thin fillets; have 
oblong canapés buttered on one side with anchovy butter (No. 569), range the fillets of salmon or 
sturgeon on top, lay five crossbars from side to side (Fig. 205) and around the edge, garnish the 
interstices with parsley and yolks and whites of eggs chopped up separately. 


858 THE EPICUREAN. 


For Deviled Herring Canapés.—These are made of oval slices of bread buttered with an- 
chovy butter (No. 569). Remove the fillets from some Yarmouth bloaters, roll them in mustard 
and red pepper, and dip them in bread-crumbs; broil these, then garnish the canapés with them, 
decorating the surface with the yolk and white of egg, and chopped up parsley. 

For Shrimp Canapés.—Have round slices of bread buttered on one side with shrimp butter 
(No. 586), lay a string of the shrimp butter around the edge, and on top marinated shrimp tails, 
sprinkle over chopped parsley. 

For Crawfish Canapés.—Have round slices of bread buttered over with crawfish butter (No. 
573), and a string of crawfish butter on the edge; cut the crawfish in two, lengthwise, season 
them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, arrange them in the form of a rosette and garnish the 
center with very green chervil leaves. nate ae 

For Lobster Canapés.—Round slices of bread buttered over with lobster butter (No. 580), 
and a string of the same butter around the edge; cut the lobster meat into three-sixteenth inch 
squares, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar or lemon-juice, and garnish the top of 
the canapés with these. 

For Anchovy Butter Canapés.—Butter the canapés on one side with anchovy butter (No. 569), 
mixing with it butter, mustard and hard boiled egg-yolks, rubbed through a sieve. Dredge chopped 
hard boiled egg-whites over the top. 

For Red Beef Tongue or Ham Canapés.—Cut some slices of tongue or ham an eighth of an 
inch thick; pare round-shaped slices of bread two and a half inches- in diameter, toast them and 
let them get cold, then butter them over with butter; season with salt, cayenne, and mustard; 
then trim the tongue or ham round shaped exactly the same size as the toasts; put them on the 
toasts and lay in the center a three-quarter inch diameter ball of grated ham or tongue, the 
ham ball on top of the ham, and the tongue ball on top of the tongue; cover with jelly and sprinkle 
over chopped parsley, serving them on a folded napkin, arranged in the form of a rosette; 
garnish with green parsley leaves. | 

For Caréme Canapés.—Cut in Julienne some truffles and pickled gherkins, and mix them in a 
béchamel chaufroid (No. 593); have also some fillets of sole and smoked salmon. Toast oval-shaped 
canapés, cover them with anchovy butter (No. 569), lay the salmon or sole on top and cover with 
the chaufroid of truffles and gherkins; sprinkle over some chopped parsley and serve on a folded 
napkin. . 

Hard Boiled Egg Canapés.—Boil a few eggs till hard, when very cold, shell and chop the 
yolks and whites separately. Cut some oblong pieces from a kitchen loaf having them slightly 
wider than for sandwiches, cover one side with a thin layer of ravigote butter (No. 583) and 
surround the edges with thin fillets of anchovies. Decorate the tops with marinated tanny 
fillets, forming them into distinct compartments and fill these in with the chopped eggs, being careful. 
to separate well the colors, dress the canapés on napkins. 


(778), CAVIARE (Caviar), 


The best caviare comes from the northern part of Europe. It is composed of sturgeon’s roe: — 
preserved in salt, pepper, and onions, and then left to ferment. Itisa very heavy article of food. 
and difficult to digest. When the caviare is too hard, it can be softened by working it with olive: 
oil and lemon juice. Lay it on a side dish with slices of lemon around; the caviare can also be gar- 
nished with finely chopped raw onions. 


(779), CELERY STALKS, OELERY, PENNEL, OELERY HEARTS, OELERY KNOBS, WITH 
VINAIGRETTE MAYONNAISE (Oéleri en Branches, Oéleri, Fenouil, Oéleri Rave, Vinaigrette 


Mayonnaise), 


Hor Celery Stalks.—Have some good heads seven inches long; remove the outer leaves until the 
the fine, tender, yellow ones are reached, then clean them by cutting off all the hard parts; split 
the stalks into four, and make a few slight incisions on their length;. throw them at once into cold. 
water, and all those parts that are notched will curl outward, giving the celery a beautiful 
appearance. They are either served in side dishes or else in high glass stands. 

ms Hor Celery, Fennel, Celery Hearts.—Pare these well, wipe them on a cloth, and lay them on 
“de dishes; serve at the same time, anchovies pounded and pressed through a sieve diluted with 


warm oil. English people eat celery with the cheese, the Italians eat fennel at the end of the 
repast. 


SIDE DISHES. 359 


For Celery Knobs, with Vinaigrette Mayonnaise.—For vinaigrette, wash the knob, and put it to. 
cook in boiling, salted water, refresh it, and cut it up into slices, fan these remove some round 
pieces with a vegetable cutter one and three-quarters to two inches in diameter, and lay them on a. 
deep dish to marinate in oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Two hours later, drain them off, and mix 
them in some mayonnaise; lay them in a line on a side dish and surround them with anchovy 
fillets. Decorate with pounded hard boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve, mixing in half the 
same quantity of mayonnaise, and push this through a cornet; lay tarragon leaves on the outside, 
and throw over some finely chopped chervil. If very tender cut in thin slices after being peeled; 
season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and cover with a mayonnaise sauce. 


r 


(780), OHEESE CRUSTS (Crotites au Fromage) 


Cut slices of bread three-eighths of an inch thick, three and a half inches long, and one and 
three-quarters inch wide; fry them on one side only in butter, drain, and let get cold. Spread 
them over with fresh butter on the side they were not fried, mixing in with it some pepper and 
mustard. Cover the butter with slices of Chedder, Swiss, or Chestershire cheese, place on top. 
another piece of buttered bread, and serve on folded napkins. 


(781), OLAMS OR RAW OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL (Liucines Orangées ou Huitres sur 
Coquilles), 
Clams are prepared and served the same as raw oysters on the half shell (No. 808). 


(782), CRAWFISH A LA VINAIGRETTE (Ecrevisses & la Vinaigrette), 

Prepare the crawfish as explained (No. 1009); cook them in a white wine mirepoix 
(No. 419), and when cold shell them by suppressing the tail carapace without detaching them from 
the bodies. Dress in a circle on a side dish, pour over a vinaigrette sauce (No. 684) and garnish 
the center with very green fresh parsley leaves. 


(783), CUCUMBERS, FRESH SLICED, IN FILLETS OR SALTED RUSSIAN STYLE (Concombres: 
Frais en Tranches, en Filets ou Salés 4 la Russe), 


Sliced Fresh Cucumbers.—lIf the cucumbers be green, small and seedless, peel and cut off the 
ends; then pare the inside into thin slices. If large divide them into two or four parts lengthwise 
before slicing; in either case they should macerate for fifteen minutes, sprinkled over with salt; 
when they have thrown off the water, drain and season with pepper or mignonette, vinegar, oil 
and chopped parsley; the same quantity of finely chopped onions may also be added. 


Another way of preparing them is to peel and slice them simply, then season with salt, pepper, 
oil and vinegar, and serve on side dishes. 


Cucumbers in Fillets.—Peel a cucumber and cut it crosswise into quarter inch lengths, roll 
each piece separately to form a long, thin ribbon and season all of these with salt, mignonette, 
pepper, oil and vinegar. Roll them up into cork-shaped pieces and mince them across so as to 
obtain long fillets, then serve on a side dish, pouring more oil and vinegar over. 


Salted Russian Style.—(Agoursis). Dress them on side dishes in their own brine. 


(784), EGGS, BUSTARD, PLOVER AND SEA-GULL (Gufs de Vanneaux, de Pluviers et de 
Mouettes), 

_ Oil over some small crimped paper cases, one inch in diameter, lay them upside down on a 
grater and push in the oven to stiffen without coloring, set them away to cool, then fill as high as 
the top through a pocket garnished with fresh butter, or else lobster butter (No. 580), or even half 
of each. Lay in the middle of each case a bustard’s egg, after boiling it and removing the shell. 
In order to cook these eggs, they must be put in cold water and boiled for eight minutes, then 
cooled off, and the shell broken gently, remove and 
wash the egg well. Dress the cases crown-shaped on 
a dish, and garnish the center either with water-cress or 
else very green parsley stalks. 








(785), GHERKINS (Cornichons), 


Haye some gherkins prepared as explained in ele- 
mentary methods (No. 96); dress them on a side dish with a few shallots, onions and hot peppers, 
adding a little tarragon and vinegar. 


Fig. § 206. ; 


360 THE EPICUREAN. 


(786), HAM, BOILED AND RAW WESTPHALIAN (Wambon Bouilli ou cru de Westphalie), 
Boiled Ham is served cut in thin slices, pared and dressed crown-shaped, garnishing the cen- 
ter of the dish with parsley branches, and decorating 
with chopped jelly around; serve fresh butter at the 
same time as the ham. | 

Westphalia Ham is a raw ham from Westphalia. 
Slice as finely as possible; roll each piece into small 
cornets, the fat part on the outer edge, and garnish 
the inside of these cornets with small sprigs of very 
Fic, 207. green parsley. 





(787), HERRING, SHAD OR MACKEREL, MARINATED (Harengs Alose ou Maquereau Marinés,) 


Clean twelve fat very fresh and soft-roed herrings, or any other of the above fishes; put them 
into a vessel between layers of salt and leave in a cool place for twelve hours; drain off. These 
may be served whole, or else cut off their heads and tails. Mince four ounces of carrots, two 
ounces of onions, and fry colorless in two ounces of butter, adding a bunch of parsley garnished 
with two bay leaves, as much thyme, two cloves of garlic, a teaspoonful of whole pepper and a few 
bits of mace. Moisten the whole with a bottleful of white wine and a pint of water, then let cook 
slowly for one hour. Lay the herrings in a deep, covered vessel, strain the stock and pour it over; 
boil before setting it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes; let the herrings get half cold, then 
arrange them on to a dish, strain the gravy over, adding toit whole peppers, bay leaf, cloves and 
round slices of blanched onions, and dress’ them on separate side dishes, pour some of the pickle 
over, and garnish with the slices of onions and half slices of finely cut lemons. 


(788), SMOKED HERRINGS (Harengs Saurs). 


Suppress the heads and tails from a few nice herring; range them in a flat saucepan, mois- 
ten them to their height in tepid water, and set the saucepan on the fire, leaving it there till the 
liquid is very hot, then remove them back. Thirty minutes after drain the herrings, lift off the 
skin, and wipe them well with a cloth; take out the middle bone; pare the fillets, coat them over 
with oil and broil them lightly, then range them nicely on a side dish; squeeze over the juice of a 
lemon, sprinkle them with some good oil, and decorate with branches or chopped parsley at each 
end, and half slices of lemon around. 


(789), PAUPIETTES OF DUTOH HERRINGS, POLONAISE (Paupiettes de Harengs de Hollande 
& la Polonaise), 


Unsalt some herrings for a few hours, remove their white skin, and serve them after cutting 
them across in four, and reshaping them again, or else split them in two lengthwise, and pare them 
into oblongs. Pound the trimmings in a mortar with a few anchovy fillets, as much butter as fish 
but no salt, add lemon juice, then rub through a sieve, and add some finely chopped chervil, tar- 
ragon and chives; spread a layer of this preparation inside each herring fillet, roll them up cylin- 
drical shape, and dip the ends in hard boiled chopped up eggs, one in the white and the other in 
the yolk, and dress them on a side dish, garnishing with fine herbs, and around with beets 
and capers. . 3 (AL 

(790). HORSERADISH (Raifort), 

Scrape with a knife a fine horseradish root. Wash it well and let it soak for a few minutes 
then dry and grate it. Put it into a vessel with a little cream, not making it too liquid; it should 
be thick enough to lift with a fork, or it may be served simply grated, and laid on a side dish. 


(791), CHOW-CHOW (Chow-Chow). 


This isa combination of different vegetables, preserved in vinegar with mustard and many 
Seng ae The vegetables composing the chow-chow are cauliflowers, small onions, gherkins, 
String beans, and small carrots. It can be purchased already prepared. Lay it simply on side dishes. 


(792), INDIAN PICKLE WITH FINE HERBS (Acharts aux Fines Herbes), 


This is a product of East India. The way to prepare it is as follows: Mince finely slices of 


ae S55 ons some small onions, cooking partly in boiling water; then trim some cauliflower, 
a tyit ema] "7 yh 7 7 2 ‘ 
ane small corn two inches long, and only half ripe; let these vegetables lay in salt for 





SIDE DISHES. 361 


fifteen days in an hermetically closed jar, then unsalt them for six hours; pour over strong wine vine- 
gar, add some ginger-root, saffron and sma!l red peppers, and keep in a cool place for one month. 
When ready to use, lay them on side dishes, pour a little oil over, and sprinkle them over with 
chervil, chives and shallot all finely chopped. 


(793), LEMONS, ORANGES, FIGS, BLACKBERRIES (Citrons, Oranges, Figues, Mires), 
Fresh Fruits Considered as Side Dishes.—Arrange any of these fruits on grape leaves or 
else on side dishes. The oranges and lemons may be cut: into quarters. 


(794), LOBSTER A LA BOULOGNAISE (Homard & la Boulognaise). 

Cut up some cooked lobster meat into small quarter inch squares, the same quantity of celery 
and finely chopped beet root. Mix all these with a little mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), adding to it 
‘chopped up chervil and tarragon and some red pepper. Range this on side dishes and sprinkle 
over the lobster coral finely chopped, or else the lobster sprawn and some chopped parsley. 


(795), LOBSTER MAYONNAISE PRINTANIERE (Homard Mayonnaise Printaniére), 

Select a freshly cooked and heavy lobster, cut up the meat taken from the tail and claws into 
‘slices, and dress them crown shaped on a side dish, and garnish the center with the green creamy 
part from the body. Prepare a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) with some chervil, tarragon and 
lobster coral, all chopped up finely, cover the whole of the lobster with the mayonnaise and serve. 


(796), RUSSIAN MACEDOINE (Macédoine Russe), 

This is composed of anchovies, marinated tunny fish, cucumbers, shrimps, beets, a few olives 
and some red herring fillets, all cut into quarter of aninch dice. Mix all in a mayonnaise with finely 
chopped tarragon, and arrange it on side dishes, garnishing with thin slices of pickled lobsters, 
. some capers and chopped parsley. 


(797), MACKEREL IN OIL (Maquereaux 4 |’Huile), 


These mackerel come already prepared like sardines in oil; open the cans, remove the mackerel 
and dress them on a side dish with chopped parsley around and surround with slices of lemon. 


(798), SMOKED MACKEREL (Maquereaux Fumés), 

Raise the fillets from the mackerel, remove the skin, and trim them into thin slices, lay these 
on a dish, and between each, set a slice of cold boiled potatoes. Sprinkle over a vinaigrette of oil, 
vinegar and pepper, dredge over some chopped chervil, very tiny squares of shallot and some 
chopped fennel and tarragon leaves. 


(799), MUSKMELON AND CANTALOUPE (Melon Vert Maraicher et Cantaloup). 

The cantaloupe melon is certainly the finest and best; if good the fruit is a handsome 
orange-red, the sides very prominent and covered with a rough exterior coat. The muskmelon 
outside is green, covered with a rough gray rind, the inside of a green and yellow color. To serve 
either one or the other, set them in a cool place for at least twelve hours before using them, have 
them very cold and cut either in halves or slices, and lay them on top of a grape leaf or any other 
kind. Donotserve the side that laid on the ground. They are eaten plain, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, or else sugar. 


4800). OLIVES ORESCENT OR LUOQUES, SPANISH QUEEN, BLACK, VERDALES (Olives Crois~ 
sant ou Lucques, Espagnoles, Noires, Verdales), 

Wash the olives in fresh water and serve them 
covered with slightly salted water. The crescent, black 
and verdal olives come from the south of France, the 
Spanish from Seville. Black olives are served dry 
without any brine; they come also from France and 
Italy, and are for sale in New York. Fra. 208. 





801). OLIVES STUFFED WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER AND WITH ANCHOVIES (Olives Farcies 


au Beurre d’Anchois et aux Anchois), 
Remove the stones from some large verdal olives, using for this purpose a column punch five- 
sixteenths of an inch diameter, or the machine (Fig. 63); throw them at once into cold water, 


362 THE EPICUREAN. 


drain, and garnish them through a cornet with anchovy butter (No. 569). Close up the openings 
with hard boiled egg-white, or else a piece of truffle, either one cut with the same cutter, or capers 


may be used instead. 


Olives Stuffed with Anchovies.—Remove the stones the same as for olives with anchovy butter, 
garnish the insides with fillets of anchovies, arrange them on a side dish, and pour over a little 
fine oil and lemon juice, then serve. 


(802) PIOKLED OYSTERS (Huitres Marinées), 


Blanch some large oysters, drain them after the first boil and keep the liquor; boil some vine- 
gar with cloves, whole pepper, whole allspice, half an ounce of each for every quart of vinegar, 
and add a little mace; put two-thirds of the oyster liquor with one-third of the vinegar, and also 
the oysters into hermetically closed glass bottles, and keep them in a cool place. Serve on side 
dishes with sliced lemon and sprigs of parsley set around. 


(803), RAW OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL OR LITTLE NECK CLAMS (Huitres Crues sur 
Coquilles ou Lucines Orangées), 


Open the oysters carefully by inserting the blade of the knife between the shells and prying 
them open so as to avoid breaking and leave them in their deep shells with the liquor. Serve six 
or eight according to their size with a quarter of a lemon for each guest. Crackers or slices of 
very thin bread and butter can be served at the same time. The clams are to be treated exactly 
the same. A hot sauce or a shallot sauce made with finely chopped shallots mixed with salt, 
pepper and vinegar, or else a pimentade sauce (No. 521), can also be eaten with the oysters. They 
should only be opened when ready to serve and sent to the table on finely broken ice. 


(804), OYSTERS TARTARE (Huitres Tartare), 


Blanch some large oysters, drain them well, and season with salt, pepper, fine herbs, shallots 
cut into very small dice and blanched, capers, minced pickled cucumbers, and lobster coral chopped 
up very fine. Have some thin slices of bread cut oval shaped the size of an oyster, fry in butter, 
place one oyster on each and cover every one of these with the chopped garnishing, finish by 
covering all with a mayonnaise jelly (No. 6138). 


(805). OYSTER CRABS, PICKLED (Orabes d’Huitres Marinés), 


These crabs are very plentiful in.certain Virginia oysters. Boil some vinegar, season it with 
salt, whole peppers, spices, mace, cloves and bay leaf, throw the crabs into this vinegar with an 
equal quantity of oyster liquor, skim it carefully and remove it at the first boil, then set it away in 


bottles and keep them in a cool place. Serve on side dishes with slices of lemon around, and a 
little of their own pickle poured over. 


(806). GREEN OR RED PEPPERS (Piments Verts ou Rouges). 


Divide them into four parts, or else cut them up fine; they may be boiled once in boiling 
water, refreshed and seasoned as a salad, or eaten simply raw without blanching. If they are 
previously pickled in vinegar, squeeze the vinegar from them, and season them with oil, salt and 
pepper, surrounding the dish with small white onions. 

Red and sweet peppers are plunged into hot frying fat to remove the first skin, then cut them 
in two to broil over a slow fire, seasoning with salt, mignonette, pepper, oil and vinegar. 


(807), POTATOES, CHIFFONNADE (Pommes de Terre Chiffonnade), 


Sey S016 cold cooked potatoes into three-sixteenth inch slices, also some cooked and 

lekied beets; take twenty rounds from each of these, using a cutter an inch and a quarter in 

liameter; dress them in a circle overlapping each other, alternating the potatoes and beets and 

garnish the center with cut up chiccory, or any other cut up salad; seasoned with salt, pepper, fine 
rhs, oil and vinegar; cover the latter with some thick, ravigote mayonnaise (No. 612), and deco- 
‘te the top. with a few anchovy fillets, tarragon leaves and chopped parsley. 


i 15 
Ut 





ol 


SIDE DISHES. 363 


- (808). RADISHES, BLACK, AND RED (Radis Noirs et Roses), 


For the Black Radishes.—Choose very tender ones being careful that they are not hollow, 
peel them by removing the black rind, then cut in fine slices across, and lay them in a soup plate with 
a little salt; cover with another plate, and toss the radishes between the two; fifteen minutes after, 
drain off the water and season with a little oil, vinegar and pepper, and toss them again between 
the two plates; range them on side dishes. After the radishes are sliced, pieces as large as can be 
obtained may be cut from them with a round vegetable cutter; this gives them a finer and more 
even appearanee. 


Hor Red Radishes.—Cut off the roots, and also the outside leaves, leaving on two or three of 
the prettiest, smallest, and greenest. Lay the radishes ; 
in cold water, taking them out half an hour later, and 
wash carefully, so that no earth adheres to them, 
Imitation tulips can be cut from radishes using the 
longer ones for this purpose. Have a small, sharp 
knife, divide the red peel from the radish into five or six 
thin pieces, beginning to cut from the bottom, and 
slipping the knife. behind the skin as far as the stem; 
shape each piece on the tip into a point, at the stalk of the radish; then lay them on a side dish 
with a few pieces of ice, and serve fresh butter at the same time. 





Fie. 209. 


(809), ROLLS, SMALL FANCY WITH LOBSTER, SHRIMP, CRAWFISH, FILLETS OF SOLE, 
CHICKEN SALPIOCON, FOIES-GRAS OR RILLETTES DE TOURS (Petits Pains Garnis 
de Homard, Crevettes, Ecrevisses, Filets de Soles, Filets de Volaille ou Salpicon, Foies-gras 


ou Rillettes de Tours), 

Have small plain rolls three and one-quarter inches long by one and three-quarter inches wide. 
These rolls must not be split on the side, but make an opening on the top, reserving the cover. 
Empty them of their crumb, and fill the entire insides with either lobster, crawfish, shrimp, 
or pressed cold fried soles, cutting them in three-sixteenth inch squares, season with salt, pepper, 
oil, vinegar, tarragon, chervil, and parsley, thickening with a little mayonnaise. After the rolls 
are filled with this, lay the cover on top, and arrange them pyramidically over a folded napkin. 

For Chicken or Salpicon.—Cut the chicken into three-sixteenth inch squares, also some mush- 
rooms, and the same quantity of unsmoked red beef tongue, all the same size pieces; add half as 
much one-eighth of an inch squares of truffles, season with a mayonnaise mixing in with it a very 
fine tomato purée (No. 730), and seasoning it all highly, garnish and serve the same as the lobsters. 

For Fancy Smail Rolls Garnished Either with Chopped Ham, Foies-Gras from the Terrine, 
or Rillettes de Tours.—Make these rolls smaller than the others having them two and a quarter 
inches long by one and a quarter inches wide, fill them by making an incision on the side, and in 
this lay the garnishing of chopped ham, foies-gras, or rillettes. They can also be served plain 
arranged on a folded napkin. 


(810), SALMON WITH SAUTERNE WINE (Saumon au vin de Sauterne), 

Mince some onions, put them in a flat saucepan, with butter, add a bunch of parsley garnished 
with thyme, bay leaves, and a few cloves of garlic, fry the whole slightly in butter, add whole 
pepper, grated nutmeg, ground pepper, salt, moisten it with Sauterne wine, boil and let simmer 
during one hour; pass through a fine sieve, put this stock in a saucepan, add the salmon, cover the 
saucepan tightly, put in the oven for about thirty minutes, arrange them on a deep dish, pour the 
stock over so as the fish will be entirely covered and let it cool off. 


(811), SANDWICHES (Sandwichs). 


To prepare the butters for these sandwiches mix it well with salt, red pepper and mustard, if 
needed for mustard butter: for the anchovy butter add a little essence of anchovy to it, and for 
foies-gras butter have half foies-gras and half butter pounded and pressed through a sieve. 
Cut some slices of bread-crumb from a compact loaf without any holes, having each one five- 
sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and four inches square. These slices of bread may be toasted 
and allowed to cool, instead of using them direct from the loaf; in both cases, spread over them 
some mustard butter, as explained above, when used for meats and poultry; use foies-gras butter 


364 THE EPICUREAN. 


for game and anchovy butter (No. 569) for fish and crustaceans, but either one or the other 
ean be used, except foies-gras, as there is no special rule to follow for buttering sandwiches. 
Garnish the bread with thin slices of meat well pared and free of all fat; on top of this meat lay 


Hs 
By 


ie —EEEE 
FIG. 210. : Fig. 212. 








another slice of buttered bread, then press them down flat one on top of the other; for the 
oblongs cut them four inches square then straight through the center, and for the triangles 
across from the two opposite corners. Dress them in pyramids; for the oblong ones cut away 
the corners, and bevel the edges, but for the triangles merely bevel them. 


(812), BARLOW SANDWICHES (andwichs a la Barlow). 


Spread some slices of bread, crumb over with mustard butter (No. 811), lay on this butter 
some pickled cucumbers, and on these some finely shred and seasoned lettuce hearts, on top of 
this slices of chicken the same size as the bread, then-more shred lettuce hearts, and the chopped 
yolks and whites of hard boiled eggs over; set another slice of buttered bread on top, and arrange 
the sandwiches in a pyramid on a folded naeke 


ue 


(813), SANDWICHES OF CHOPPED OR THIN SLICED CHICKEN (Sandwichs de Volaille 
Hachée ou en Tranches Fines), 


Serape some chicken breasts or else chop them up finely; mix this with some well seasoned 
mayonnaise (No. 606); spread this over slices of buttered bread and cover with another slice; 
press down, pare the corners as explained in No. 811, and dress on a folded napkin. 


(814), GAME SANDWICHES (Sandwichs de Gibier), 


Spread over the bread with foies-gras butter; on top lay some thinly sliced or chopped 
up game, cover over with another slice of bread also buttered with foies-gras butter, press them 
both together and pare neatly, then dress on a folded napkin. | 


(815), SANDWICHES OF DIFFERENT MEATS (Sandwichs de Viandes Variées), 


Use roast beef or roast tenderloins, cut the bread in quarter inch thick slices, coat one side 
with a layer of butter prepared with English mustard and on these lay the meats; cover with 
another slice of buttered bread, pare and dress on napkins. The roast beef may be replaced by 
beef tongue or lamb, corned beef, chopped raw lean beef, veal, Feral ham or foies-gras. Grated 
horseradish can be strewn over the butter if liked. 


(816). FRENOH ROLL SANDWICHES, AMERICAN STYLE AND WITH ANCHOVIES (Sandwichs 
de Fltites & l’Américaine et aux Anchois). 


Have some French rolls, four inches long and one and a half inches in diameter, make an open- 
Ing on the top, empty them, removing all the crumbs possible and keeping the covers. Cut up 
some roast chicken, the same quantity of fresh red beef tongue and half the quantity of ham, all 
into one-eighth of an inch squares, a few minced pickles and green peppers, then season with salt, 
hepper, a little tarragon and finely shred chervil. Mix the whole with just sufficient mayonnaise 
sauce (No. 606), to bind the ingredients together. The chicken, tongue and ham may be replaced 
by shrimps cut in two or into small squares, fill the rolls, set on the covers and serve on napkins. 


French Roll Sandwiches with Anchovies.—Prepare the rolls as for above; chop up four hard 
bia] Oat ee ees. ee ee. ; : ce 
Vea eggs, the yolks and whites separately; put them into a bowl with a pinch of chopped 





SIDE DISHES. 365: 


tarragon, one of chervil and one of chives all cut up very fine, season with salt, pepper, a table- 
spoonful of vinegar and four tablespoonfuls of oil, fill the rolls with alternate rows of anchovies. 
and eggs, until entirely filled, then replace the covers, and serve on napkins. 


(817), SARDINES MARINATED (Sardines Marinées), 


Range in layers in a big stone vessel about six pounds of large fresh sardines besprinkling- 
each layer with salt, cover the sardines with a cloth and let macerate for two hours in a cold place; 
wipe them off one by one and return to the same washed vessel, then roll them in a little- 
oil and place on a broiler; cook on a slow fire; they should be just singed, neither dry 
nor brown. Remove the fish and lay them one beside the other in the same vessel without 
tearing the skin; cover over with vinegar cooked with salt and aromatics but have it cold 
for use and strained; let macerate in this for one or two hours according to its strength. 
Take the sardines out again and lay them on a sieve; when well drained, range in layers either in. 
a large crock or any other glazed vessel, having a cover to fit, alternating each layer by one of 
minced onions, bay leaves and peppercorns. These sardines can be kept in excellent condition 
for several weeks. = ; 


(818), SAUSAGES SMOKED; WITH OR WITHOUT GARLIC, D'ARLES, LYONS, MORTADELLA 
_’» -@aucissons Fumés & l’Ail ou Sans Ail, d’Arles, de Lyon, et Mortadelle), 
Remove the skin covering the sausage, slice it up finely, and range it crown-shaped on a side. 
dish with a sprig of parsley in the middle and chopped 
parsley around. 


For Arles and Lyons Sausage.—Cut in very thin 
slices, do not remove the skin. Slice Mortadella very 
thin and cut each round into two or four. 


(819), SHRIMPS IN SIDE DISHES (Crevettes en Raviers 


ou en Bateaux), 





Fig. 213. 


_ Throw some fine shrimps into boiling and unsalted 
water remove at the first boil and place in a bowl, sprinkle with salt; leave them an hour or two to. 
become marinated with the salt, drain, then dress them in a pyramid or crown-shaped on side. 
dishes, garnishing with sprigs of parsley and throw over very small pieces of clear ice. | 


(820), SLICED AND BUTTERED WHITE OR RYE BREAD, SLICED AND ROLLED BREAD: 
(Tartines de Pain Blanc ou de Seigle Beurrées, Tartines Roulées). 

Out thin slices from the crumb of a loaf of white or brown bread, cover one side with butter- 
and put one on top of the other, the buttered sides together; pare them into oblong or three cor- 
nered pieces. 

Sliced and Rolled Bread.—These are slices of bread cut very thin, buttered on one side, and 
rolled up; cover each roll with a sheet of waxed paper, and twist the ends so that the bread is well 
enclosed. Bread done up in this way will remain fresh quite awhile. 


(821), MARINATED SMELTS (Eperlans Marinés), 

Wipe the smelts, empty them through the gills, then salt and flour them over; fry in oil, and 
drain on a grate until cold. Range them in a flat vessel one closely beside the other. Put some 
vinegar into a frying pan with a little water and oil, salt, whole peppers, bay leaves, and minced 
onions; boil the liquid up twice, then remove and when cold pour it over the smelts and leave to 
macerate for a'few hours before using. 


(822). SMOKED BEEF, SALMON, STURGEON, GOOSE BREAST, OR TONGUE (Bout Fumé, Saumon, 


Esturgeon, Poitrine d’oie et Langue.) 


Cut the beef into very thin slices, and serve with sprigs of parsley around. 

Smoked Salmon or Sturgeon.—Cut thin slices of smoked salmon or smoked sturgeon three- 
sixteenths of an inch thick; broil them ona gridiron for one minute on each side, and when they are- 
cold, arrange them on a side dish, pour a little sweet oil over, and serve with chopped parsley and 
slices of lemon around, or to be served raw cut in thin slices, and dressed either in a circle or- 
straight row with chopped parsley around. 


366 THE EPICUREAN. 


Smoked Breast of Goose.—Cut the meat off the breasts lengthwise into very thin slices; range 
in straight rows with parsley around the dish. 

Red Beef Tongue.—Cut the tongue in thin equal sized slices, suppressing the fibrous parts 
and fat; range them in a circle in the center of a small side dish, one on top of the other; 
garnish around with parsley and chopped jelly in the center. 


(823), STRAW OHEESE (Paillettes au Fromage), 


These are made with parings of a puff paste giving it six turns (No. 146); and dredging over 
the paste at each turn some grated parmesan cheese and red pepper, after it is rolled out. Then 
roll them very thin, let them rest and cut from the pieces bands an eighth of an inch wide, and 
seven inches long; place them on a floured baking sheet close together but not touching each 
other; bake them in a slack oven so that they become dry and crisp. . 


(824). MARINATED STRING BEANS (Haricots Verts Marinés). 


Blanch lightly a sufficient quantity of large string beans, drain, refresh, and set them in a stone 
crock, and pour over some boiling water and vinegar, mixed by halves, some salt, cloves, and 
tarragon leaves added; the next day drain off the vinegar, boil it once more, and pour it again 
over the beans, with some English mustard diluted in Chili vinegar: serve on side dishes with a 
little of the vinegar in which they have marinated. 7 


(825), TARTLETS OF GAME, LOBSTER, SALMON OR NONPAREIL (Tartelettes de Gibier, 
Homard, Saumon ou Nonpareil), 

These are small round or oval tartlets, made of a very thin foundation paste (No. 135), and 
the insides garnished with buttered paper, and filled in with rice. Cook them in a slack oven, 
empty them, egg over the edge, and set them in a quick oven to color. Cut some roast game in 
small dice, with an equal quantity of mushrooms, and bind with a little light chaufroid, season 
well and serve the tartlets on folded napkins. 


Lobster and Salmon Tartlets.—Use either round or oval tartlet crusts, the same as for the 
above, garnish the insides with either salmon or lobster cut in dice, and some mushrooms, capers, 
fine herbs, salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil; dress them on folded napkins. 


Nonpareil Tartlets.—Have either round or oval tartlet crusts; cut some tunny fish and an- 
chovies in three-sixteenth inch dice, also some beetroot, lobster and pickled cucumbers the same size, 
stoned olives cut across in thin slices, shrimp tails, three-sixteenth inch dice of celery knob; season 
and fill the tartlets with this; dredge over the tops with truffles, parsley, lobster coral, and 
pistachio nuts, all chopped up separately and minutely, and cover over with partly thickened 
jelly. 


(826), TOASTS A LA WADDINGTON (Roties 4a Waddington), 


Trim some slices of bread-crumbs three-eighths of an inch thick, oval shaped, two and a half 
inches long by two inches wide; toast them lightly and cover one side with chopped ham and butter 
mixed. Remove the stones from some large verdal olives, cut off the ends, and then slice them 
into three pieces, so as to make rings each three-sixteenths of an inch high; lay them in a 
circle on the toast, on the outer edge, and fill each alternate olive ring with chopped up hard 
boiled egg-white, and the rest of them with the yolks prepared the same. Make a turban with one 
or two anchovies inside of these, fill this with chopped beetroot and cover the whole with jelly 
having the consistency of syrup. Serve them very cold, arranging them in form of a crown on a 
folded napkin, with sprigs of parsley in the center. 


(827), TOASTED BREAD GARNISHED WITH CHICKEN, BACON, CHOPPED OHICKEN, AND 


PEPPERS (Tranches de Pain Grillées Garnies de Poulet, Petit Salé, Poulet Haché et 
Piments), 


These are slices of bread toasted on both sides, and left to get cold. They are generally but- 
tered with mustard or anchovy butter (No. 569), and on one side over the butter lay the necessary 
garnishing without covering it again. They can be made with roast-beef and horseradish, or 
caviare, foies-gras, anchovies, sardines, hot roast beef with gravy, chicken, bacon, and lettuce, 
chopped chicken and green peppers, also broiled sardines. 





SIDE DISHES. © 362 


- (828), TROUT FRIED AND MARINATED—SMALL (Petites Truites Frites et Marinées), 


Select some fresh trout, empty and wipe well; salt over, dip in flour and fry in oil a few at a 
time, then drain and lay them in a deep dish. Heat some oil in a saucepan, mix with it a quarter 
as much vinegar as water, thyme, bay leaf, basil, sliced onions and cloves; cook this marinade 
half an hour on a very slow fire and let it get partly cold, then pour it over the fish and leave to 
marinate for six hours before serving. Dress them on a dish with a little of their marinade 
and some slices of lemon. } 


(829). TROUT MARINATED IN WINE—SMALL (Marinade de Petites Truites au Vin). 


After the fish are cleaned, salt them over for one hour, cook them in strongly acidulated 
water, drain and range them in a deep vessel or a small barrel covered with slices of lemon. 
Prepare a court bouillon without water, using only white wine and vinegar, rings of white onions, 
a sprig of parsley, salt, spices and aromatics; put it on to boil and when the onions become soft, 
lift them out with a skimmer and lay them on the trout and pour into the stock an equal quantity 
of aspic jelly (No. 103), strain this over the fish and let cool off on ice. Serve the trout on a dish 
with the slices of lemon and onion around and at the same time a sauce-boatful of persillade 
sauce (No. 619). 


(830), TRUFFLES (Truffes), 


Select those that are small and very round, brush over, and peel. Set them in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, salt and nutmeg, and place them on the fire for a quarter of an hour, 
being careful to watch that they do not boii; a little fire can also be placed on the cover; then drain 
and arrange them in a glass bottle filling it with Aix oil, and closing hermetically. To serve 
truffles, drain them off, dress, and to the oil add a little lemon juice. 


(831), MARINATED TUNNY FISH, SARDINES, GURNET AND ACCOLA (Thon Mariné, Sardines, 
Grondins et Accola), 


Red gurnet and accola are smaller than the tunny fish, the meat being very white and delicate. 
Tunny fish comes already prepared in boxes the same as sardines; open them, drain them from the 
oil, either one or the other, but from the sardines wipe off their skin. Lay them on side dishes, 
sprinkling over some fresh oil, and garnish around with chopped parsley, capers, sliced lemon or 
Séville oranges; serve slices of buttered bread at the same time. 

For Gurnet or Accola.—Cut it in slices, season, cover with oil and broil the pieces; when cold 
dress them crown-shaped or lengthwise, sprinkle over some more oil, and garnish around with 
parsley, chopped eggs and slices of lemon. 


(832). TURBOT OR RED SNAPPER MARINATED (Turbot ou Red Snapper Mariné), 


Mince up some onions, put them in a sautoire with a piece of butter, adding a bunch of 
parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a few cloves of garlic, white pepper, grated nutmeg, 
ground pepper and salt. Fry them slightly in the butter, then add some Sauterne wine, and let 
simmer for one hour; pass the liquid through a fine sieve, then return to the sautéing-pan; add to 
it either some turbot or red snapper, cover well, and set it in the oven for thirty minutes; remove 
from the saucepan to cool in a deep dish, with the liquid covering the fish, then drain and dress 


_ the fish, pour some of the liquid over and garnish with sliced lemon. 


(833), GREEN WALNUTS (Cerneaux), 


When the juice is in the almond state, break them in two, detach the white parts with a circu- 
lar movement, then throw them into cold water in which a little powdered alum has been dissolved; 
drain through a colander, and throw over a handful of white salt, two finely cut up shallots, and 
put them into a salad bowl, adding the juice of two lemons; roll them in their seasoning, and serve 


on side dishes. 


(834), PICKLED GREEN WALNUTS (Cerneaux Confits), 


These walnuts come ready prepared; serve on side dishes with a little of their liquor. 
Walnuts preserved in sugar and drained, then laid in a vessel with vinegar, cloves and ginger 


make an excellent hors-d’ceuvre. 


368 THE EPICUREAN. 


HOT SIDE DISHES (Hors-d’CEuvre Chauds), 





The hors-d’ceuvre is composed of certain dishes served after the soup, somewhat taking the 
place of those formerly called ‘‘ flying dishes,” for they did not appear on the table, but 
were passed directly to the guests. 


(835), ANCHOVY FRITTERS (Beignets d’Anchois), 


Prepare some very thin pancakes, cut them into narrow strips, three-quarters of an inch 
wide, by three inches long, cover them with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with. 
raw fine herbs added, set on top half of a well cleaned anchovy, then roll 
them over, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color. The anchovy 
fillets may be prepared by.arranging them crown-shaped and filling the centers. 
with a quenelle, then dipping them in frying paste to cover well, and fry them 
immediately in frying fat over a hot fire, drain, wipe and salt. Dress the fritters. 
on folded napkins and garnish the tops with a bunch of fried parsley. 


(836). ATTEREAUX OF BEEF PALATE (Attéreaux de Palais de Bou). 


Obtain some round tin cases, two and one-quarter inches deep, the bottom being — 
one and three-eighths inches in diameter, while the top is an inch and five-eighths;. 
the bottom must be perforated with a hole so as to allow the skewer ta pass through 
and fasten on to a piece of bread. Cut some rounds of well pressed beef palate, 
one inch and a quarter in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; have 
as many pieces of truffles and mushrooms, both of them an eighth of an inch thick,, 

and seven-eighths of an inch in diameter. Reduce an allemande sauce (No. 407), 
with some jelly. Run on to small silver skewers, first a piece of palate, then alternate with a. 
piece of mushroom, then another round of palate and truffle; set each skewer into a round case,. 
and fill them up with the partly cold prepared sauce; when cold, unmold by dipping in hot 


water, dip in beaten eggs, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color; serve on 
folded napkins. 

















(837), ATTEREAUX OF CHICKEN A LA D'ANTIN (Attéreaux de Poulet & la d’Antin), 

Braise the chickens and leave them to cool in their stock; remove the fillets, pare them of 
their fat, and take away all the skin and bones; cut them up into three-sixteenths of an inch thick 
slices, and then into one inch squares. Cut up some mushrooms thesame size and thickness, and as. 
much truffles; put all of these in a dish and cover with allemande sauce (No. 407), having it well 
reduced; mix into this sauce some chervil chopped finely and cooked colorless in butter, also some: 
fresh mushrooms. truffles, anda little chopped parsley and tarragon. When the ingredients. 
are almost cold, thread first a square- of chicken, then one of mushroom, and one of truffle.” 
eover evenly with the remainder of the sauce, having it nearly cold; let cool off completely, pare 
them of uniform shape then roll in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten egg smoothing the bread-crumbs. 
neatly with the blade of a knife, and fry in hot frying fat until they attain a fine color, and the 
heat has penetrated them throughout. Dress on a folded napkin with fried parsley on top. 


(838), ATTERBAUX OF FAT LIVERS (Attéreaux de Foies-Gras), 


Cook some foies-gras cut into one-inch squares and three-eighths of an inch thick pieces, lay 
them in a vessel, and add an equal quantity of the same sized squares of cooked red beef tongue; 
Season with paprika, meat glaze (No. 402), and finely chopped truffles; sprinkle over a few 
spoonfuls of Villeroi sauce (No. 560), sufficient to cover, and run through these pieces of liver and 
tongue small wooden or metal skewers; when cold pare and roll them 1m bread-crumbs, dip in 
beaten eggs, and bread-crumb them once more, smoothing the bread-crumbs, then plunge them into 


hot frying fat and fry them a fine color; dress on folded napkins and surround with slices of 
lemon. 





SIDE DISHES. _ 369 


(839), ATTEREAUX OF OYSTERS (Attéreaux d’Huitres), 


Blanch medium-sized oysters; drain, wipe and run small wooden skewers through them, 
alternating each oyster with a slice of mushroom; cover with a Villeroi sauce (No. 560), let get 
cold, and then roll them in bread-crumbs, and dip in beaten eggs; bread-crumb again, smooth the 
breading, and fry the attéreaux into hot frying fat, drain and replace the wooden skewers by 
metal ones, and finish by dressing them pyramidically on a napkin with fried parsley on top. 


(840), ATTEREAUX PIEDMONTESE (Attéreaux Piémontaise), 


Make a preparation of consistent cooked polenta, finished with butter and grated parmesan; 
spreading it a quarter of an inch thick. Cut from this round pieces an inch and a quarter 
in diameter, also some white Piemont truffles an inch across and an eighth of an inch in thick- 
ness; pieces of fresh Swiss cheese, three-quarters by one-eighth of an inch, and run these 
alterately on skewers, first the polenta, then the cheese and truffles; dip them in beaten eggs and 
bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine golden color. 


(841), ATTEREAUX OF SWEETBREADS A LA MODERNE (Attéreaux de Ris de Veau & la 
Moderne), 


It requires for the preparation of these attéreaux, some cylindrical shaped tin molds, each one 
being two and a quarter inches deep, the bottom one and a quarter inches, having a perforated 
hole to pass the skewer through; the top of the mold must measure an inch in diameter. Cut 
some cold sweetbreads into slices, three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and from these remove, 
with a round cutter, pieces one inch in diameter. Have also rounds of truffles, and the same 
of tongue, seven-eighths of an inch across, and an eighth of an inch thick. Mix all these together 
in a vessel with a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs, thickening with a little meat glaze (No. 402); 
let get cold, then run them on to small silver skewers, alternating the truffles with tongue and 
sweetbreads; lay the molds on a large piece of buttered bread-crumbs (Fig. 490), set the skewers. 
into the molds, and let them penetrate through the holes into the bread to keep them upright, 
and fill the empty space in the cases with a Villeroi sauce (No. 560); set them aside on the ice to 
get perfectly cold; unmold by dipping them into hot water; bread-crumb the attéreaux, dip them 
in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them a fine color in hot frying fat; drain on a cloth, 
and dress on a folded napkin. 


(842), ATTEREAUX OF TURKEY OR GAME (Attéreaux de Dindon ou de Gibier). 


Take the white meat from a roast turkey or some game, and cut it into slices three-sixteenths 
of an inch in thickness; with a round cutter remove pieces three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter. Prepare some truffles and mushrooms half an inch in diameter, by an eighth in thick- 
ness; mix all these with an allemande sauce (No. 407), with cooked fine herbs added, and 
run them alternately on to small silver skewers; bread-crumb them as above and fry. 


(843), BATEAUX OF FAT LIVERS, RUSSIAN STYLE (Bateaux de Foies-Gras 4 la Russe), 


Butter some boat-shaped tartlet molds, and line them with chicken forcemeat (No. 62), leay- 
ing an empty space in the center which fill with a cooked and pounded foies-gras preparation 
rubbed through a sieve, and mixed with a quarter of its quantity of chopped mushrooms, also a 
few spoonfuls of Madeira sauce (No. 492). Cover this preparation with a layer of the forcemeat, 
and put the molds to poach in a slow oven in a baking pan, with a little boiling water poured 
into the bottom. Cool them. off slightly before unmolding, then bread-crumb them, English style 
(No. 13), plunge them in hot fat to heat well while coloring, drain and dress on 
napkins, 


(844), BONDONS OF PICKEREL A LA WALTON (Bondons de Brochet & la Walton), 


Butter some cylindrical molds the shape of a cask bung, one and three-quarter inches 
high, one and three-eighths inches wide at the bottom, and one and five-eighths inches at the top or 
opening. Prepare a pike quenelle forcemeat as follows: Half a pound of pickerel, six ounces 
of butter, four egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of cream cake paste ( No. 182), salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and two egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Fill the molds with this forcemeat, and finish as 
explained in No. 884. Serve separately a salpicon made of oysters or mussels, and crawfish or 
lobster, cut in dice, and some mushrooms; mix with as much Hollandaise sauce (No. 477) as 


béchamel (No. 409). 


370 THE EPICUREAN. 


(845), BONDONS OF WOODCOCK A LA DIANE (Bondons de Bécasses & la Diane), 


Butter some cylindrical molds the same size and shape as those for No. 844, Fill them with 
a woodeock and cream forcemeat (No. 75),. and finish exactly as for timbales; unmold and 
dress. Serve separately a sherry sauce (No. 492), with small three-sixteenth inch dice of ham and 


truffles added. 


(846), BRESSOLES OF CHICKEN (Bressoles de Volaille). 


Have some oval molds buttered the same as for the foies-gras (No. 848) they should be a 
quarter of an inch high; cover the bottoms and sides with quenelle forcemeat either of chicken 
or game (No. 62). For chicken bressoles mix in with chicken quenelle forcemeat a third as much 
purée of foies-gras and in the center place a salpicon of chicken a la Reine (No. 938). 


(847), BRESSOLES OF GAME (Bressoles de Gibier), 


Take game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) not too solid and fill the center of the bressole with a 
salpicon of foies-gras, truffles and mushrooms combined with a brown Madeira sauce (No. 492); 
finish and serve as the foies-gras bréssoles. 


(848), BRESSOLES OF FAT LIVERS Bressoles de Foies-gras), 


Butter some quarter-inch high, oval shaped molds; fill the bottoms and sides with foies- 


gras forcemeat (No. 78). 

For the Foies-Grus Bressoles.—After covering the bottoms and sides with the foies-gras que- 
nelle forcemeat, lay over a slice of foies-gras, and cover this with a little montglas salpicon (No. 
747); set one mold on top of the other, so as to’ enclose the foies-gras and montglas, and plunge 


them into boiling water to poach the contents; unmold, drain on a cloth, and leave them stand 


until they are cold, then pare and dip them in beaten eggs; roll them in fresh bread-crumbs, 
smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and just previous to serving, fry them a fine golden 
color; drain, and dress them crown-shaped on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley in the 
center. 3 


(849), BRISSOTINS OF CHICKEN, SUPREME (Brissotins de Volaille au Supréme), 


Proceed exactly the same as for brissotins of game Lyonnese (No. 850) only replacing the game 
salpicon by a chicken 4 la Reine salpicon (No. 938) and the game forcemeat by a chicken and cream 
forcemeat (No. 75). Use a supreme sauce (No. 547) with these. 


(850). BRISSOTINS OF GAME, LYONNESE (Brissotins de Gibier a la Lyonnaise). 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), fill them with game and cream’ forcemeat (No. 
75), and poach in a slow oyen, laying them in a baking pan and pouring ‘boiling water around, to 
half the height of the ‘molds: when firm to the touch, remove from the oven, 
and let.them get thoroughly cold.-- With a tube measuring five-eighths of an inch 
‘in diameter, less than ‘the bottom of the. ‘mold, remoye the center of the ; orce- 
meat, and : an this piece cut two slices” three- sixtéerithis of an inch i in iid 
“ness; put one of these slices into the empty Space: in. the timbale, cover, ‘withr 
| game chasseur salpicon’ (No. 745), and lay the other slice on top,. as ‘shown i in 

"Fie. 215. the accompanying figure dip them in beaten eggs, and _bread- crumbs, smooth the 

surfaces nicely, and mark the end with the tube that has been used to remove the 
center and fry a nice color, now lift off the marked slices or rounds, fill the inside with. a 
Madeira sauce (No. 492), put the piece back again in place of a cover and serve. 





(851). BRISSOTINS OF LOBSTER, INDIAN STYLE (Brissotins de Homard & I’Indienne), 


To be made precisely the same as the game Lyonnese (No. 850), only replacing the game 


salpicon by a lobster and mushroom salpicon (No. 746), thickened with velouté sauce (No. 415) 
and curry, and use pike forcemeat (No. 76), instead of game forcemeat. Finish with an Indian 
sauce (No. 488). 


(852). CANAPES BARTHOLOMEW (Oanapés Barthélemy), 


Cut slices of bread five-sixteenths of an inch thick; pare them by shaping them into three and 
one-eighth of an inch lengths, and have them two inches and an eighth wide. Out off from the four 





= 
2 





SIDE DISHES. 371 


corners, quarter inch triangles, and dip the bread into melted bntter, roll them in grated parmesan 
and set them on a dish that can be placed in the oven, lay on top thin slices of cooked ham, and 
cover the whole with melted Stilton cheese, season with red pepper, and put the dish into a hot 
oven for one minute; serve them either on the same dish or else on a napkin. 


(853). CANAPES BROWNSON (Canapés 4 la Brownson), . 


Pare some slices of bread the same as for the Bartholomew (No. 852), then toast them, ‘cover 
one side with a fine purée of potatoes (No. 725), and set on top thin slices of interlarded corned 
beef fried in butter, and over another layer of the potato purée, trim them neatly and dip them in 
beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and lay them 
on a baking sheet; sprinkle over some butter, dust the tops with grated parmesan cheese, and brown 
them in a hot oven; serve on folded napkins. 


(854), CANAPES OF GAME (Canapés de Gibier). 


Prepare slices of bread three-eighths of an inch thick, cutting them three inches long and two 
inches wide, pare them into ovals, make an incision all around by sinking the knife down to half 
the depth of the bread, fry them in butter, and empty them out. Have one 
ounce of cooked game, either snipe, plover, or partridge; one ounce of cooked 
mushrooms and one ounce of truffles, all cut in fillets one-eighth of an inch by 
one-half of aninch. Break up the game carcasses moisten them with Ma- 
deira wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), and let it reduce well, then strain Fic. 216. 
through a tammy (No. 170). Put it into a saucepan with the prepared 

salpicon, mix it, and fill the bread crusts with this preparation; lay over a few thin: slices 
of foies-gras, cover these dome-shaped with game forcemeat (No. 75), and set them into a mod- 
erate oven, when done, brush over the tops a little glaze (No. 402), and put in the oven an instant 
to harden, then serve. | 





(855), CANAPES LORENZO (Canapés & la Lorenzo), 


Fry colorless two ounces of onions cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, and when done 
add a tablespoonful of flour; let this cook for a few minutes without browning, then mois- 
ten with a pint of fresh cream; season with salt, cayenne pepper and nutmeg, and reduce it to the 
consistency of a well thickened sauce; now throw in one pound of crab meat sautéd in butter over a 
brisk fire in a pan, letting it boil up once and then set it away to cool. Cut slices of bread a 
quarter of an inch thick; from it cut round pieces four...inches.in diameter, using a cutter 
for this purpose; divide them straight through the center to make two even-sized pieces 


of each, ~-toast ‘them on” one side only; cover this side with two ‘ounces * of the-erab prep- 
aration for eacli Half round, and lay the following preparation on top: with thé hands work ih’a tin 
bastif"half a pound of ‘butter, add to it-grated parmesiti® chidese, ‘cayenne and white pepper, and 
knead these together, adding grated parmesan so as to férm'a thick paste; cover the entire canape 
with a layer of this butter and cheese, and set them on a buttered baking-sheet in the hot oven so 
they. attain a fine color, then serve them as quickly as they are ‘removed from the oven. : They may 
be made round shaped twoand a half inches in diameter if preferred. 


(856). CANAPES MARTHA (Canapés a la Martha), 


Muffins three inches in diameter are used for these canapés; cut them through the center and 
toast them without burning, then cover with two ounces of lobster croquette preparation (No. 880); 
spread it on flat, lay over each a thin slice of Swiss cheese exactly the same size as the muffins, 
dust over with bread raspings and grated parmesam and brown them in the oven. 


(857), CANAPES OF SWEETBREADS (Canapés de ris de Veau), 


Cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares one-half pound of braised sweetbreads, a quarter 
ofa pound of cooked mushrooms and two ounces of lean cooked ham; fry all with four ounces of 


os 


12 THE EPICUREAN. 


butter, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; moisten with a little broth. 
(No. 189) thickened with espagnole sauce (No. 414); skim off the fat and reduce the sauce till 
nearly dry, then stir in three egg-yolks and a piece of fresh butter. Prepare some slices of 
bread three-sixteenths of an inch thick and one and a half inches by two and three-quarters;. 
toast them, cover with the preparation the same thickness as the bread, smooth the surfaces. 
and dip them in beaten eggs, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in very hot fat; serve: 


on a folded napkin. 


(858), CANNELONS OE BEEF PALATE OR LAMBS’ SWEETBREADS AND CELERY 
(Cannelons de Palais de Bouf ou de Ris d’Agneau et Oéleri), 

Cut eighth of an inch square pieces from a cold braised and pressed beef palate, add to it am 
equal quantity of mushrooms and half as many truffles, then mix this salpicon with a well reduced. 
allemande sauce (No. 407). Roll out some eight-turn puff paste to the thickness of one six- 
teenth of an inch, wet this paste slightly and cut it into half inch wide bands. Butter the exterior 
of some cylindrical molds, one and a quarter inches in diameter by two and a half inches long; 
apply the bands on to these, turning them around so that half the paste of one row overlaps half 
of the last one, and continue until the cylinder is well covered; egg them over twice and cook them. 
in a hot oven, remove, unmold and place each on a square of buttered paper, fill with some chicken 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), garnish the center with the above prepared salpicon, and finish the 
bottom and top with more forcemeat, then set them in a moderate oven for ten, 
minutes. Range them on folded napkins and serve. Instead of beef palates, 
lamb sweetbreads and celery mixed with an allemande sauce, may be substituted: 
and finished exactly the same. 


(859), CANNELONS WITH PUREE OF CHICKEN OR GAME (Cannelons & la Purée. 
de Volaille ou de Gibier), 


Butter the outsides of some tin cornets, two and a half inches by one and a. 
half inches, roll around them a thinly rolled out half inch band made of puff paste 
Fic, 217. trimmings, overlapping half of the paste at each round, lay them on a slightly 
dampened baking sheet, egg over twice, and cook them lying flat in a hot oven,, 
when done, pull out the tin cornets, and set the cannelons upright, the wide opening at the top, 
and the point pared in such a manner that they are all of an exact height, keep them in this. 
position by placing them in a paupiette mold; and fill the insides of the cannelons either with. 
a game purée (No. 716), or a chicken purée (No. 713). Cover the wide opening with game or 
chicken forcemeat (No. 89) according to its contents, and set them in a slow oven for ten minutes, 
then serve on folded napkins. 


ve 
th, 
i 





(860). CASSOLETTES LUSIGNY (Cassolettes 4 la Lusigny). 


Fill some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) with butter melted to the consistency of cream, leave 
to-cool, then dip them into very hot water and unmold, roll them in cracker dust, dip in 
beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs, and again in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs; smooth 
neatly with a knife and slit around the top with a pastry cutter dipped in hot water, 
this should bea quarter of an inch in diameter smaller than the timbale itself; fry a few 
at the time in very hot frying fat, and when of a fine color, remove the covers, stand 
them on a grate, at the oven door and let all the butter drain out. Cut up some un- 
smoked, salted tongue, mushrooms, truffles, and chicken, into small quarter inch Fe. 218, 
squares, combine this salpicon with buttered allemande sauce (No. 407), fill the 
eassolettes, and place on top a round of truffle the size of the opening to take the place of a cover; 
it should be a quarter of an inch in thickness. 





(861), CASSOLETTES, MONTHOLON (Oassolettes & la Montholon). 


Procure timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 137), fill these with butter melted toa cream, and let 
get very cold; unmold by dipping them into hot water, and stand them away on the ice until 
hard, then dip them into powdered crackers, and in beaten eggs, also in bread-crumbs, again in 
the eggs, then roll them in bread-crumbs once more, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a 
<nife, and form an incision on the top with a round pastry cutter three-quarters of an inch in 
ciameter; plunge them into very hot frying fat, lift off the cover, and turn them over on to & 





lero DISKS. 373 


grate placed over a tin pan, and set them at the oven door; when the butter has entirely melted, 
fill the insides with a salpicon of truffles, beef palates, and sweetbreads, mixed with supréme 
sauce (No. 547), lay on top a cover made of a fluted and glazed mushroom, and serve hot. 


4862). OELESTINES WITH FOIES-GRAS AND PUREE OF CHESTNUTS (Célestines au Foies-Gras 


a la Purée de Marrons), 


Put on the fire to reduce about two or three gills of Madeira sauce (No. 492) incorporating into 
it slowly, a few.spoonfuls of good glaze (No. 402); when succulent and thick the same as a montglas, 
add a few spoonfuls of chopped truffles, then withdraw the saucepan from the fire. Cut from half 
of a cooked foies-gras, ten or twelve crosswise slices not having them too thin, pare these into 
drawn out half inches all of the same size; season, glaze over with a brush, and cover one side 
with the truffle preparation mixed with the parings of foies-gras pounded and strained, smooth 
and cover with a thin layer of raw forcemeat, then roll the célestines in bread-crumbs, dip in 
egg, and plunge a few at the time into hot fat so as to color as well as heat them. Drain and 
dress in a circle on a hot dish with a chestnut purée (No. 712), in the center. 


(863), OOOKS'-COMBS STUFFED, DUXELLE (Orétes de Cogs Farcies & la Duxelle), 


Prepare and cook the cocks’-combs the same as cocks’-kidneys (No. 864), cool, drain, and eut an 
incision in them filling it in with Duxelle (No. 385), mingled with a little chicken forcemeat (No. 
$9), cover them with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), to which has been added a little 
jelly, let these get very cold, and then dip them into eggs and bread-crumbs, plunge in very hot 
frying fat, and fry till a fine color. Dress on folded napkins, and decorate with a bunch of parsley 
on top. 


(864), COCKS-KIDNEYS VILLEROI (Rognons de Coq a la Villeroi), 


Cook some cocks’-kidneys in a mirepoix (No. 419) moistened with mushroom broth; when cold, 
drain, and dip them in a well reduced and thick allemande sauce (No. 407), into which has been added 
a little jelly and finely chopped mushrooms, and some chopped parsley; when cold dip in beaten 
eggs, bread-crumb, and fry to a fine color; dress on a folded napkin in a pyramid form, and deco- 
rate with a bunch of fried parsley. 


(865), GOLOMBINES OF CHICKEN LIVERS WITH HAM (Colombines de Foies de Volaille au 
Jambon), 


Put on to reduce one pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), incorporating into it one gill of 
mushroom broth and one spoonful of chicken glaze (No. 398), one ounce of butter, and a little red 
pepper; take off the fire, and add to it half a pound of chicken livers, and as much cooked ham, 
both cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. Have a pound of boiled rice that has had a little butter 
and parmesan stirred into it, and with this line some hollow tartlet molds, leaving an empty space 
in the middle; fill this in with the above preparation, and cover over with a thin layer of the same 
rice, then let them get quite cold. Unmold, and lay them first in grated parmesan, then in beaten 
eggs, and lastly in white bread-crumbs; smooth them nicely with the blade of a knife, plunge them 
into boiling frying fat, a few at the time, in order that they attain a good color, then drain and 
range them on folded napkins. 


(866). COLOMBINES OF FOIES-GRAS (Colombines de Foies-Gras), 


Have a piece of cooked foies-gras cut into small dice, mix in with it half as much cooked 
chopped truffles. Reduce a little good brown sauce (No. 414), incorporating slowly into it a few 
spoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402), and the truffle broth; when properly thickened add the 
salpicon, remove the saucepan at once from the fire, and let stand till cold. Prepare a rather 
consistent semolino preparation with broth, and after it is finished, reduce for two minutes to 
obtain a body, then withdraw and add butter, parmesan and two diluted egg-yolks. With this 
line some buttered tartlet molds, leaving a hollow space in the center; fill this up with a part of 
the foies-gras preparation, and cover with more of the semolino, then let the tartlets get quite 
cold; unmold, roll in grated parmesan, dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs and fry nicely. 
When done, drain and dress on a napkin. 


374 THE EPICUREAN. 


(867), OROMESQUIS OF BEEF PALATES (Cromesquis de Palais de Bosuf), 


Prepare and cook a beef palate as explained in No. 13826; put it under a weight. Cut it in 
lozenge-shaped pieces, two inches by three inches; heat these in a half-glaze (No. 400), set them 
under a weight, lay on each side a slice of foies-gras (goose livers) and cover this with raw chicken 
forcemeat (No. 89). Roll them in grated bread-crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll again in the. 
bread-crumbs and fry until a good light color. Serve ona folded napkin, with a bunch of parsley 


on top. 


(868), CROMESQUIS OF CHICKEN, CAPON, FAT PULLET OR DUCK (Cromesquis de Volaille, 
de Chapon, Poularde ou de Canard), 


Cook a calf’s udder as described in No. 109, and when finished cut it up into very thin slices 
from the widest part, then beat it down to decrease the thickness. Fry in two ounces of butter, 
one small finely chopped up shallot, add to it three ounces of flour and let cook slowly, ther 
moisten with a quart of chicken broth (No. 188); season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; reduce, : 
and add a pound of white poultry meat, either of chicken, capon, fat pullet, duck or other, and 
one pound of well drained mushrooms and four ounces of truffles; all three cut into three- 
sixteenths of an inch squares; let boil up once or twice while stirring from the bottom of the 
sautoire with a reducing spatula (Fig. 601), and ineorporate: into it some good chicken jelly (No. 
103); lay this preparation aside to become cold, having it spread on a flat dish to half an inch in 
thickness, and leave it until it is quite hard, then cut it up into equal sized oblongs one and a 
quarter inches by two and a half inches; cover each one with a slice of udder so as to com- 
pletely enwrap it, and just when ready to serve, dip the cromesquis into a frying batter (No. 2, 
Fig. 137), and plunge them into boiling fat to color; drain, and dress them pyramidically on 
a napkin with a bunch of fried parsley to decorate. 


(869). CROMESQUIS OF CRABS, SHRIMPS, CRAWFISH OR LOBSTER A LA RUMPFORD 


(Cromesquis de Crabes, de Crevettes, d’Ecrevisses ou de Homard a la Rumpford), 

For the cromesquis use either crabs, shrimps, crawfish or lobsters; cut a pound of the one 
desired into three-sixteenth inch squares, also half a pound of mushrooms the same, and add them 
to a quart of velouté sauce (No. 415); let it boil, season and reduce, then thicken with six egg- 
yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of lobster butter (No. 580), pour out the preparation and 
set it aside to get cold. Dampen two napkins, press out every particle of water, and place 
between them some white wafers to soften. Roll the cold preparation into balls, flatten them 
down and wrap them in the white wafers or else the preparation can be merely laid between the 
two wafers, pressed down well and cut into lozenges. Dip them in frying paste (No. 2, Fig. 137), 
plunge them into hot fat, and fry them a fine color, drain, wipe off and dress them on 
folded napkins, with fried parsley on top. | | 


(870), CROMESQUIS OF PILLETS OF STRIPED BASS OR OTHER FISH (Cromesquis de Filets de 
Bass Rayé ou Autre Poisson), 

Put into a bowl a small cut, cold striped bass salpicon, having about half a pound of it, and 
add to it half its quantity of blanched oysters, and as many mushrooms, the two latter being cut 
into quarter of an inch dice pieces. Put on to reduce a few spoonfuls of béchamel (No. 409), stir- 
ring into it the oyster broth and a little melted glaze (No. 402), let it reduce until very 
thick, then pour in the salpicon, being careful not to have too much of the sauce; finish 
the preparation with a dash of grated nutmeg, and leave it to get thoroughly cold. Divide it 
into parts, each one the size of a ball an inch and a half in diameter, and give them an oblong 
shape; wrap each one of these in some white waffles softened between two damp cloths. Dip the 
cromesquis one by one into frying paste (No. 2, Fig. 137), drain them well and plunge them at 
once, but only a few at the time, into plenty of hot frying fat to heat them through, and let get a 
very fine color. Drain and dress them on folded napkins. 


(871), OROMESQUIS OF GAME STANISLAS (Oromesquis de Gibier & la Stanislas), 


Made with either snipe, grouse, young rabbit, partridge or plover with truffles. Remove the 
skin and neryous parts from some roast game, prepare a pound of the meat and cut it into three- 
sixteenths of an inch squares, and cut up four ounces of truffles exactly the same. Reducea quart 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414), with some game fumet made with the carcasses and a little meat 
glaze (No. 402), season, add the game and truffles, let boil and.cool off. Prepare afew exceedingly 








SIDE DISHES: ° 395 


thin, small bands of fat pork, seven inches in length and three-quarters of an inch wide,also some 
pond pieces two and a quarter inches in diameter. Divide and roll the preparation into one and a 
half inch diameter balls, flatten them down to three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and roll the 
band around the edge, lay the round pieces on top and bottom, then dip the cromesquis into a 
frying paste (No. 137, No. 2), and plunge them into very hot fat to attain a fine color, drain and 
dress them pyramidically on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley on top. 


(872), OROMESQUIS OF LAMB, BEEF TONGUE OR SWEETBREADS, BABANINE (Cromesquis 
d’'Agneau, de Bouf de Langue ou de Ris de Veau & la Babanine), 


Prepare a few bands of fat pork a sixteenth of an inch in thickness; have some erépinette or 
dressing of pork, well cleaned and well drained, spread it on a cloth, and cover over with the bands 
of pork. Cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, one pound of either lamb sweetbreads or 
beef tenderloin, or lamb or calf tongues, half a pound of mushrooms cut the same size, half a 
pound of lamb brains, cut the same, half a pound of onions cut into three- sixteenth inch squares, 
blanched and cooked in broth (No. 194a). Put all these ingredients into a pint of allemande 
sauce (No. 407) with four. ounces of cooked ham, and four ounces of foies-gras' cut into dice; let the 
preparation get cold, then divide it into an neh and a half balls, wrap them up in the cr répinette” 
and after they are all prepared, bread-crumb them English style (No. 13), butter’ over, and broil” 
them on a slow fire, dress on hot dishes, and serve separately a well buttered velouté sauce (No. 
415), to which has been added some lemon juice and chopped parsley. dos 


(873), CROMESQUIS OF OYSTERS, MUSSELS, SCALLOPS OR CLAMS, BECHAMEL (Cromesquis 
d’Huitres, de Moules, de Pétoncles ou de Lucines & la Béchamel), 


Blanch lightly either some oysters, mussels, scallops or clams in their own juice, and a little 
water; drain and cut up one pound into large three-eighths of an inch dice pieces. Reduce three 
pints of béchamel sauce (No. 409), with the above broth, sauté in butter over a brisk fire the 
blanched pieces of oysters or others, with half their quantity of minced fresh mushrooms, add these 
to the béchamel sauce, after carefully draining off the butter, then let it get cold, and divide it 
into parts; roll each one into a ball an inch and a half in diameter, flatten them down to three- 
quarters of an inch in thickness, and garnish around with a band of very thin prepared pancake; 
lay a round piece both on top and bottom to cover the entire surface, and then dip the cromesquis 
into frying batter (No. 137, No. 2), plunge them into very hot fat and let fry a fine color; dress 
them on folded napkins, placing a bunch of fried parsley in the center. 


(874), CROQUETTES (Croquettes), 


There are certain preparations called croquettes made either of meat, fish, crustaceans, vege- 
tables, or eggs, cut up into small dice, and frequently mixed with mushrooms cut 
the same size as the meats, and then mingled with certain sauces. Croquettes 
are made of various shapes such as pear, cylindricals, balls, or cakes. These 
eroquettes are breaded in eggs and bread-crumbs, and are fried in very hot frying 7S 
fat until they attain a fine golden color, they must be served as soon as done. Fic. 219. 
Dress on folded napkins decorating with a bunch of parsley on top; to be served 
without any sauce, therefore the preparation should be mingled with a light, gelatinous or else well 
buttered sauce. 





(875). CROQUETTES OF BEEF PALATES (Croquettes de Palais de Bouf), 


Made with braised beef palate pressed under a weight reducing it to three-sixteenths of an inch 
in thickness; cut a pound of this into small squares, and half a pound of mushrooms cut into 
the same sized pieces; cover this salpicon with a pint and a half of well seasoned allemande 
sauce (407), and finish the same as the sweetbread croquettes (No. 893). 


(876), CROQUETTES OF CAPON A LA ROYAL (Croquettes de Chapon & la Royale), 

Cut a pound of white capon meat into three-sixteenth inch squares, also half a pound of 
mushrooms, a quarter of a pound of sweetbreads, and the same of truffles, all cut alike. Mix 
together and fill some buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137). Put six egg-yolks into a basin, 
beat them up with a pint of cream, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg; strain this through a sieve, 


376 THE EPICUREAN. 


and finish filling up the molds with it; poach them in a slow oven, and as SOON as they become 
hard, unmold, and dip them in beaten eggs, bread-crumb and fry them to attain a good color, drain 
and dress them on a napkin garnishing around with fried parsley. 


(877), CHICKEN CROQUETTES, EXQUISITE (Croquettes de Volaille Exquises), 


Place two ounces of butter in a saucepan with two ounces of rice flour, stir well and let it cook 
slowly until slightly brown, then moisten with a quart of veal blond stock (No. 423), and stir con- 
tinuously till it comes to a boil; set it on one side to boil slowly, and despumate; reduce the sauce 
and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter. Now add to this sauce, a pound of the 
white meat taken from a fat pullet, and cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, half a pound 
of cooked mushrooms, four ounces of artichoke bottoms, all being cut the same size as the pullet, 
and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; then pour it out, and let it get perfectly cold. Pound 
in a mortar, one ounce of truffles with one ounce of cooked rice, and three tablespoonfuls of 
béchamel (No. 409), press it through a sieve, and let get cold, then divide this into half inch balls. 
Make some balls, an inch anda half in diameter, of the chicken croquette preparation, and in 
the center of each insert a truffle ball, flatten them to three-quarters of an inch; dip them in beaten 


eggs and bread-crumbs, fry nicely and dress them in pyramids over a folded napkin, garnishing 


the top with fried parsley. 


(878), CHICKEN CROQUETTES, HUNGARIAN (Croquettes de Poulets & la Hongroise), 


These are made with one pound of the white meat from a roast chicken, half a pound of 
mushrooms, and a quarter of a pound of unsmoked red beef tongue, each article cut into one- 
sixteenth of an inch squares. Put into a sautoire a pint and a half of Hungarian sauce (No. 479), 
thickened with egg-vyolks and cream; when it nearly boils, stir in the chicken, mushrooms, and 
tongue; allow to boil a minute then cool; with this preparation form cork-shaped croquettes, dip 
them in beaten eggs and roll them in bread-crumbs, and then fry to a nice color. Dress on 
napkins and garnish with fried parsley. 


(879), CRAB CROQUETTES, PARMENTIER (Croquettes de Crabes 4 la Parmentier). 


Line some buttered paupiette molds with a thin lining of duchess potato preparation (No. 
2785), finished with parmesan cheese; fill the space with a crab and cooked mushroom salpicon 
mixed with a reduced thick béchamel (No. 409), the same as for a croquette preparation; let it 
become hard while in a cool place, and finish filling the molds with more of the potato purée. 
Dip the molds into hot water in order to unmold the croquettes, then roll these in flour, afterward 
in beaten eggs, and lastly in white bread-crumbs, then plunge them into very hot frying fat to 
color; drain, and serve on folded napkins and garnish with fried parsley. 


(880), CRAB, CRAWFISH, LOBSTER OR SHRIMP CROQUETTES, VICTORIA (Croquettes de Orabes 
d’Ecrevisses, de Homard ou Orevettes & la Victoria), 


These croquettes are made with any of the above crustaceans. Cut a pound of any of these ~ 


meats into dice shapes, and have also one-quarter of a pound of truffles cut the same size as the 
meat. Puta quart of velouté (No. 415), into a sautoire, season with salt, white, and red pepper, 
and add half a pint of celery purée (No. 711), let reduce and moisten with cream; and incorpor- 
ate into it two ounces of lobster butter (No. 580) for each pound; then add the meat, let this 
preparation get quite cold, then divide it into balls an inch and a half in diameter, forming these 
into cork shaped croquettes, two inches in length, roll them in beaten egg and then in bread- 
crumbs, and fry a fine color; dress on folded napkins, arranging a bunch of fried parsley on top. 


(881), DUCKLING CROQUETTES A LA MUSER (Croquettes de Oanetons & la Muser), 


Have a pound of the meat taken from the breast of a duckling, without any fat or skin, and 
cut it Into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, fry lightly without coloring, one ounce of chopped 
onions in two ounces of butter, add the duckling, and fry for a minute longer, then season with 
alt, pepper, and nutmeg, drain off the butter and add half a pound of potato purée (No. 725), 
‘our raw egg-yolks, and two tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan; mix well and with this preparation 
‘orm cork-shaped croquettes, two inches in length, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them 
a fine golden color, dress them on folded napkins and set on top a bunch of fried parsley. 


~ 





a > 
. ie 


SIDE DISHES. 377 


(882), PULLET CROQUETTES, WRIGHT SANFORD (Croquettes de Poularde & la Wright 
Sanford), 


Mince two ounces of peeled truffles, cut them into small three-sixteenths of an inch squares, 
suppress the skin from several fat pullets and all the hard parts so as to obtain one pound of 
meat, and cut it up the same as the truffles. Put the bones and parings from the pullets into a 
saucepan with the peelings from the truffles, three gills of veal blond stock (No. 423), anda 
garnished bunch of parsley; cover and set it on a brisk fire to reduce the liquid to half, then 
strain through a tammy (Fig. 88). 

Pour into a flat saucepan, one pint of béchamel (No. 409), mix into it a few pieces of raw 
ham, reduce the sauce while stirring it well from the bottom of the saucepan with a 
reducing spatula (Fig. 601), and incorporate into it gradually the above stock; continue 
to reduce until the sauce becomes thick and succulent, then take out the ham, and replace it 
by the truffles, and afterward the pullet; season with salt if deemed necessary, and a little nutmeg. 
Spread this preparation on a baking sheet covered with a piece of paper, having it an inch 
in thickness, and when it is cold and stiff, overturn it on the table previously dredged 
with bread-crumbs; remove the paper, and cut the preparation into oblongs, three inches 
long by one inch wide; dip these in beaten eggs, roll them in fresh bread-crumbs, and throw them 
into hot fat; as soon as they are nicely colored, take them out and drain. Dress them pyramidic- 
ally on folded napkins, and garnish around with fried parsley. 


(883), FISH OROQUETTES (Croquettes de Poisson), 


The Fish Croquettes may be prepared with either salmon, trout, sole, bass, kingfish sheeps- 
head, or red snapper. Simply cut up the meat into small three-sixteenths of an inch squares; 
lay them in a vessel and mix in a third of their quantity of cooked mushrooms, and half as 
many truffles as there are mushrooms, all cut into the same sized pieces. Put on the fire to boil 
a few gills of good, consistent béchamel (No. 409); mix into it slowly the mushroom liquor and 
a few spoonfuls of good melted glaze (No. 402), and when the sauce has become succulent, add 
the salpicon in the saucepan; heat it without boiling, and spread it over a tin sheet to become 
hard, leaving it for a few hours in a cool place or on the ice. Divide the preparation into balls, 
an inch and a half in diameter, lay them on a table bestrewn with white bread-crumbs, 
and roll them either in the shape of corks or balls; dip them in beaten eggs and roll them 
in the bread-crumbs; smooth well the surfaces with the blade of a knife, then range them on 
a tin sheet; put them in hot frying fat; cook only a few at a time and let them get a nice color. 
After the croquettes are finished and well drained from the fat, range them in pyramid-form 
over a folded napkin, and garnish around with fried parsley. 


(884), FROG OR OYSTER CROQUETTES (roquettes de Grenouilles ou d’Huitres), 


Sauté some frogs’ legs with butter in a pan over a brisk fire; season, take off all the meat from 
the bones to obtain one pound; cut in small squares, have half a pound of cooked and well-dried 
mushrooms, cut them into quarter inch squares, and mix them with a quart of well seasoned 
and reduced béchamel and cream sauce (No. 411); incorporate two ounces of butter, and toss the 
salpicon in the sautoire. Let the preparation get thoroughly cold, and then form it into balls 
an inch and a half in diameter; flatten them down to half an inch in thickness, dip them in eggs 
and bread-crumbs, and fry them a fine golden color, then drain and serve on folded napkins 
with fried parsley. 

Oyster Croquettes.—Instead of frogs blanched oysters may be substituted after removing the 
hard parts, and dividing them into squares; sauté them, drain off the butter and finish the same 
as the frogs. 


(885), GAME, CHICKEN OR FAT LIVER CROQUETTES, DAUPHINE (Croquettes de Gibier, 
de Volaille ou de Foies-gras 4 la Dauphine), 


Remove the fillets either from some game or chicken (or replace them by some fat livers), 
suppress all skin and nerves and chop them up finely, then pound in a mortar and add one pint of 
velouté (No. 415), and one ounce of butter with some essence of mushrooms (No. 392) worked into 
it, pass it through a tammy being careful to have the purée more consistent than liquid. Break 
separately in a bowl, eight egg-yolks and one whole egg for each quart of purée, add this and 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Butter some molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), fill them 





378 THE EPICUREAN. 


with the preparation, and poach them in a slow oven; let get cold, then unmold, and roll them in 
beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a good color, dress, range them on folded napkins and 
garnish with fried parsley. These croquettes may be made by mixing half foies-gras with either 


the chicken or game. 


(886), GROUSE OROQUETTES WITH TOMATOED SOUBISE SAUCE (Croquettes de Tétras: 
Sauce Soubise Tomatée), 


Cut the meat from roasted grouse into three-sixteenth inch squares removing all the skin, 
bones and nerves; cut the same quantity of cooked mushrooms the same size; mingle the two with 
some well reduced Madeira sauce (No. 492), season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, let boil up once, 
then pour it into a vessel to incorporate in a little fresh butter; let this preparation get cool. 
Divide it into equal parts and shape each one into a cylindrical croquette, two inches long by 
one inch in diamater, dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden brown, 
drain, wipe and dress on folded napkins; serve separately a soubise sauce (No. 548), with tomato 
sauce (No. 549) added. he sera oy emacs 72 ESS eae bite ne 


(87). GUINEA FOWL OR PULLET CROQUETTES IN SURPRISE (Croquettes de Pintade ou 
Poularde en Surprise), a loan inieigeeaa 

Have one pound of the white meat from a roasted Guinea fowl; suppress all the fatand nerves, 
and cut it up into small three-sixteenth inch squares; add to these a quarter of a pound of truffles 


cut the same size, and put all into a pint and a half of a well buttered, cold supreme sauce (No. 
547). Form the preparation into balls an inch and three-quarter in diameter, flatten them down to 


half an inch in thickness, and remoye the center.of each with a half inch tube; fill thisemptyspace 


with a foies-gras ball, then dip them into beaten eggs and roll them in bread-crumbs, then fry 
them till a nice color. Serve on folded napkins, garnished with fried parsley. 


(888), LAMB CROQUETTES A LA DE RIVAS (Croquettes d’Agneau a& la de Rivas), 


Take a pound of lean meat, free of nerves, from a tenderloin or leg of lamb, half a pound of 
mushrooms, and a quarter of a pound of red beef tongue; mingle these well with a pint of veloute: 
(No. 415), and half a pint of fine tomato purée (No. 780); reduce well together, season, and set it 
aside to get cold; finish precisely the same as sweetbread croquettes (No. 8938). 


(889), PARTRIDGE CROQUETTES WITH GAME FUMET (Croquettes de Perdreaux au Fumet de 
Gibier), 


Cut half a pound of three-sixteenth inch squares from the breasts of some roast partridges,. 
after suppressing the skin and nerves; spread half a pound of partridge quenelle forcemeat. 
(No. 91), on a buttered paper to the thickness of three-sixteenths of an inch; poach thisin a 
slow oven, and when cold cut it up into three-sixteenth inch squares. Have also eight ounces. 
of mushrooms cut the same. Reduce a quart of velouté (No. 415), with a pint of game 
fumet (No. 397), and a pint of mushroom essence (No. 392); when the sauce is well reduced 
add to it the salpicon; put it back on to the fire, and stir to bring it to a boil, and just 
when on the eve of boiling, set it aside to get cold. Divide this into balls each an inch and a half 
in size, roll them on a table dredged with bread-crumbs, and form them into cork shaped pieces, 
then dip them in beaten egg and in bread-crumbs, fry in hot fat until a good color, and dress. 
the croquettes on a folded napkin, garnishing them with fried parsley. 


(890), PIKE CROQUETTES A LA ROMAINE (Croquettes de Brochet & la Romaine), 


| Cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, half a pound of mushrooms, and one pound of pike: 
fillets, sautéd in butter, and cut into the same size pieces as the mushrooms, also two ounces of 
truffles, and mix these together with an espagnole (No. 414) reduced with Marsala wine. 
Have some cream cake paste (No. 182); put it with an equal amount of pike quenelle forcemeat. 
(No. 90); butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187), cover the bottoms and sides with a thin 
layer of this forcemeat, and garnish the centers with a salpicon; cover over with more forcemeat, 
aud poach them in a very slow oven for twenty minutes, then unmold, dip them in eggs, roll in 
brea Aig oes and fry till a good color; drain, dress on folded napkins, and garnish with fried 
parsley. - 





SIDE DISHES. . 370 


(891), PHEASANT CROQUETTES (Croquettes de Faisans), 


Cut in three-sixteenth of an inch dice the cooked and cold breast meats taken from pheasants; 
put these into a small bowl with half their quantity of cooked truffles and mushrooms, a few spoon- 
fuls of red beef tongue also cut up. Set a little béchamel (No. 409) on the fire to reduce, and incor- 
porate into it a few spoonfuls of pheasant fumet prepared with the game bones and parings, also 
the same quantity of mushroom essence (No. 392). After the sauce is thickened, add to it 
the salpicon, and season the whole to taste; when cold divide it into small parts and with them 
make pear or cork-shaped croquettes, fry them when needed and dress, garnishing with fried 
parsley. These croquettes can also be made with partridge or quail. 


(892), WOODCOCK CROQUETTES WITH TRUFFLES (Croquettes de Bécasses aux Truffes), 


Suppress the skin and nerves from one pound of woodcock fillets; cut them into three-sixteenth 
inch dice, and add a quarter of a pound of truffles; reduce one quart of espagnole (No. 414) and velouté 
(No. 415) combined, and when well reduced thicken it with four raw egg-yolks, and 
two ounces of fresh butter; add to it the game meats and truffles, and return it’ to 
the fire, stir incessantly until the first boil, then’ take it off and set it away to cool. 
Divide this preparation into one and three-quarter inch sized balls; roll them on a 
table dredged. with bread-crumbs to give them the shape of a pear, and dip these 
into beaten eggs, and afterward roll them in bread-crumbs; smooth the surfaces with | 
the blade of a knife, and plunge them into hot fat; when done drain on folded- pry. 290. 
napkins, imitate the stalks with bits of parsley, range them crown shaped 

garnishing the center with fried parsley. The game may be replaced by a salpicon of foies-gras.. 





(893), SWEETBREAD OROQUETTES (Croquettes de ris de Veaw). 


Braise, then set aside to cool, one pound of sweetbreads, cut them into three-sixteenths inch 
squares, have also three-quarters of a pound of cooked mushrooms cut the same. Put into a sau- 
toir one quart of velouté (No. 415) well seasoned with salt, black and red pepper and nutmeg, and 
thicken the sauce with four raw egg-yolks diluted with half a gill of cream and two ounces of fine. 
butter; add the sweetbreads and mushrooms, set it on the fire and continue to stir until it boils, 
then pour this preparation into a vessel to get thoroughly cold. Divide it so as to make it into. 
cork-shaped pieces, which roll in beaten eggs, and fry a fine color; drain; dress them pyramidically 
on folded napkins and decorate with fried parsley. 


(894) TURKEY CROQUETTES (Croquettes de Dinde), 


Put three ounces of butter into a saucepan with three ounces of flour; make a light blond: 
roux, and dilute it with a quart of cream and a pint of milk, add salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
then reduce and despumate this sauce. Add two pounds of white turkey meat, and a pound of 
mushrooms, all cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and the mushrooms pressed free of alk 
moisture; bring to a boil while stirring briskly with a reducing spatula, and incorporate slowly 
two ounces of fresh butter. Another way is to use twelve ounces of cooked chicken, eight 
ounces of mushrooms, two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour; moisten with five gills of 
white chicken broth (No. 188). And still another way is to employ two pounds of chicken, two 
pounds of chopped mushrooms, and a quart of velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream. 


(895), CROUSTADES ALA CASTILLANE (Croustades & la Castillane), 


Prepare a very thick chestnut purée as already described in the garnishings (No. 712), with it 
fill some six-sided molds previously cooled in ice-water and drained before filling, 
when perfectly cool dip them into very hot water to unmold. Bread-crumb them in 
eracker dust, beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces, and mark an 
incision with a pastry cutter three-quarters of an inch in diameter; fry them to a 
fine color, remove the cover and empty out the insides to refill with beef tenderloiw 
cut in quarter inch dice pieces and sautéd in butter with some mushrooms cut 
Fig. 221, exactly the same, and a brown and Marsala wine sauce (No. 492). Instead of re- 
placing the hd, cover the aperture with a small round celery croquette three- 
quarters of an inch across, that has been made with braised celery cut in small squares and mixed 
with ‘velouté sauce (No. 415), and when cold bread-crumbed and fried. 





380 THE EPICUREAN. 


(896), OROUSTADES A LA PARMENTIER (Croustades & la Parmentier), 

Prepare a potato purée (No. 725); rub it through a very fine sieve as described in the 
purée and with it fill some buttered six-sided molds; let them get thoroughly cold on ice, 
then unmold and dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, mark an incision on top with a three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter pastry cutter, and fry them in hot frying fat till a nice color 
is attained, then remove the lid, empty out the insides and refill with a salpicon of crawfish for 
one-half, and mushrooms and truffles for the other half; mingled with an allemande sauce (No. 
407). Serve very hot on folded napkins. 


(897), OROUSTADES A LA PERIGUEUX (Croustades & la Périgueux). 


Cook half a pound of hulled barley in two quarts of beef stock (No. 194a) for three hours, and 
when well done, and the liquid entirely reduced, then beat it with a spatula to make it attain a — 
body, while adding two ounces of butter, salt, nutmeg and red pepper. Lay some six-sided molds 
into cold water, take them out one by one, drain and fill with the prepared barley; leave them to 
cool on the ice, then unmold and bread-crumb them, mark the top with a three-quarter inch 
pastry cutter, fry them, empty their insides, and fill them with a salpicon composed of truffles cut 
in small one-eighth inch squares, and small quarter of an inch bead quenelles with a brown Madeira 
sauce (No. 492). Instead of covering the aperture with its own cover, have one made of a round 
piece of glazed truffle, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, by one-eighth in thickness. Dress 
them in a pyramid on a folded napkin. 


(898), CROUSTADES, CAROLINA STYLE (Oroustades & la Caroline), 


Pick well half a pound of rice, wash and put it into a saucepan, moistening with some fat, 
beef stock (No. 194a) to three times its height, then boil, cover the saucepan and continue the 
boiling for thirty minutes; by this time the moisture should be entirely evaporated. Mix in 
with this rice, four ounces of butter, beating it in well, then fill up some six-sided molds 
after they have been dipped in ice water and drained; let the rice get cold, unmold, roll 
them in fine cracker dust, then in beaten eggs, and finish by rolling them in fresh bread-crumbs, 
smooth the surfaces with a knife, and mark an incision on top with a three-quarters of an inch 
pastry cutter, then fry them to a fine color; remove the covers, empty out the insides and fill them 
with the following garnishing: Cut some shrimps and mushrooms into three-sixteenths of an inch 
squares; put them into a sautoir with a cream sauce (No. 454), season and bring it to a boil while 
stirring steadily, thicken well with egg-yolks, fresh butter and cream, and fill the croustades with 
this; lay on top of each one a round piece of truffle instead of a cover, and dress these croustades 
on a folded napkin. 


(899), CROUSTADES OF GNOOQUIS A LA RIVOLI (Groustades de Gnocquis 4 la Rivoli), 


Prepare a gnocquis paste with half a pound of flour, half a pound of fecula, one quart of milk, 
five ounces of butter, fifteen raw egg-yolks and one whole egg, some salt, sugar, nutmeg and four 
tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan cheese. Put into a bowl the flour, fecula, cheese, salt, sugar and 
nutmeg, and incorporate in slowly two and a half ounces of butter, eight egg-yolks and the whole 
egg, work them well together, then add the remainder of the butter and eggs; butter some six-sided 
molds two and a quarter inches in diameter, two inches wide at the bottom, and one inch and an 
eighth in height, fill with the gnocquis paste and then poach them; when cold unmold, dip them in 
eggs and bread-crumbs, and mark a place on top for a cover, fry them a fine color and empty the 
insides to fill with a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms and unsmoked red beef tongue, small delicate 
chicken quenelle balls, serve with a brown sauce (No. 414), reduced with meat juice and tomato 
essence. Dress them on a folded napkin. 


(900). CROUSTADES PERRETTI (Oroustades & la Perretti), 


Have ready two pounds of noodles (No. 142), cook this for four minutes in boiling, salted 
water, drain well and return it to the saucepan; season, and finish with six ounces of butter and four 
ounces of parmesan in such a way as to obtain a compact preparation. With this fill some 
uttered six sided molds, cool them on ice, unmold, dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in white 
nread-crumbs, and smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife, mark them on one side with a 
pastry cutter, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and ten minutes before serving plunge them 

‘0 hot fat to attain a golden color, drain, and empty them, then fill the insides with a salpicom 





SIDE DISHES. 381 


of chicken and mushrooms, mingled with some supreme sauce (No. 547), and chicken glaze (No. 398); 
put back the cover previously removed, and dress them to serve. : 

Hor Talliarines proceed the same as for the noodles, only use a salpicon of olives cut in small 
three-sixteenth inch squares, some mushrooms, foies-gras, brown sauce (No. 414) and tomato 
sauce (No. 549). 


(901), CROUSTADES ALA PIEDMONTESE (Croustades & la Piémontaise), 


Set a quart of broth or water on the fire, and when it boils, drip into it like rain, six 
ounces of semolino, let it cook slowly for twenty minutes, then incorporate into it one ounce of 
butter and four spoonfuls of grated parmesan, also a littlesalt andnutmeg. Lay in cold ice water 
some six-sided molds (Fig. 221), take them out one by one, and fill them with the above prepara- 
tion; leave them to stand on ice till cold, then unmold, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll in powdered 
crackers, then again in beaten eggs and afterward in bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with the 
- blade of a knife, and mark on top with a round three-quarter of an inch pastry cutter; fry them a 
fine color, remove the covers, and empty out the insides; fill these with a salpicon of truffles, mush- 
rooms, beef palates, duck livers, small quenelles and a little brown Madeira sauce (No. 492). 
Replace the covers, and serve them dressed on folded napkins. 

For Polenta Croustades proceed exactly as for the semolino, finishing them the same; fill the 
insides with white truffles and quarter inch squares of sweetbreads, and cover with an espagnole 
sauce (No. 414) reduced with dry mushrooms and tomato essence added. 


(902). CROUSTADES A LA MORGAN OR WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS AND TRUFFLES 
(Croustade 4 la Morgan ou aux Cufs Brouillés aux Truffes), 


Peel and steam some sweet potatoes, then pound them with a little butter and a few egg- 
yolks; fill some six sided molds (Fig. 221) previously laid in ice water and drained, press in welt 
the potato, and set them on the ice to become cold, unmold and roll them in cracker dust, dip 
them in eggs and bread-crumbs, and mark an incision on top with a pastry cutter three-quarters. 
of an inch in diameter; fry them a fine color, remove the cover, empty out the insides, and fill 
them with some mushrooms, artichokes, and fat livers cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, 
and mixed in a saucepan with a sufficient quantity of poulette sauce (No. 527). When all are 
filled, range them on a folded napkin. 

For Scrambled Eggs and Truffies.—Fillthe empty spaces with a preparation of eggs scrambled. 
with truffles and grated cheese. 


(903), ORUSTS OF CLAMS A LA SCHENK (Croftes de Lucines Orangées & la Schenk), 


Cut a few slices of bread so as to obtain eight crusts, having them half an inch thick; 
pare them into ovals, and slit them on the surface of one side, by making a slight incision a short. 
distance from the edge, following the oval with the tip of a small knife, then fry them in clarified 
butter; drain as quickly as they get a nice color, and empty out the insides. Fill them with fish 
forcemeat (No. 90), poach for a few minutes. Blanch thirty-two medium-sized clams; drain, and 
cut them up into pieces, but should they be very small then leave them whole; add them to a little 
allemande sauce (No. 407), season with pepper, mignonette, nutmeg and lemon juice, and, if 
desired, a very little salt, besides a few cooked fine herbs. Cover the crusts with this preparation, 
and bestrew over the tops bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; set them into a very hot oven, and. 
when a fine color and hot, dress them on folded napkins. 

Crusts & la Schenk.—Remove all the hard parts from twenty-four clams, using only the soft 
pieces; chop these up and season with black and red pepper but no salt; put them into a saucepan 
with half an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of very finely minced onion, the clam juice and two 
tablespoonfuls of cream; place the saucepan on the fire, and remove it on one side before the con- 
tents come to a boil. Lay slices of toasted bread on a chafing-dish, pour over the clams and serve. 
Slices of buttered brown bread may accompany this hors-d’ceuvre. 


(904), CRUSTS D'HENIN, MORTON, CHAMBERLAIN, OR A LA GENOISE (Crotites & la d'Heuin, 
& la Morton, & la Chamberlain, ou a la Génoise). 
If cut round shaped a la d’Henin they are two and one-quarter inches across, if oval shaped a 


la Morton, two inches by three; if oblongs, Chamberlain, two and three-quarters inches by one and 
three-quarters inches; if lozenge shape a la Genoise, four inches by two and one-quarter inches 


all of these to be cut half an inch in thickness. 


382 THE EPICUREAN. 





For Reund Shaped & la @ Henin. —Made with foies-gras; mark an incision all around the 
erusts a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry them in butter, and empty out the insides to fill in 
with a cream forcemeat (No. 75), poach for afew minutes. Mince some foies-gras, garnish the 
crusts with this, and cover with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766), lay over a chicken and cream 
forcemeat (No. 75), bestrew over some chopped truffles and besprinkle with clarified butter; poach 
them in the oven without browning for twenty. minutes, and serve on napkins without any sauce 


whatever. 

Oval Crusts & la Morton.—Fill the insides with a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No, 89), poach 
them in the oven, and garnish with slices of truffles, slices of hard boiled eggs, and slices of mush- 
rooms. Cover with a béchamel sauce (No. 409) to which some chopped chives have been added, 
dredge bread crumbs and grated parmesan on top, and set them in a slow oven for twenty 
minutes before serving. . 

Oblong Crusts & la Chamberlain.—Fill the insides with a godiveau forcemeat (No. 82), 
poach them, then mince some raw chicken or game fillets, sauté them in butter over a brisk 
fire, add some velouté (No. 415), truffles and mushrooms; cover the crusts with this, 
bestrew the tops with grated cheese and bread-crumbs, pour over some butter, and place them for 
twenty minutes in the oven, and serve hot on folded napkins. 


Lozenge-shaped Crusts a la Génoise.—Fill the insides with a pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 
90); lay over some oysters and slices of lobsters or crabs, sauté a few mushrooms in butter, 
- geasoning with salt and pepper, moisten with cream, and let boil for a few seconds, then add a 
little béchamel sauce (No. 409), and with this cover the whole; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and 
parmesan, and brown the crusts in the oven. 


(905). CRUSTS WITH FOIES-GRAS (Crotites au Foies-Gras), 


From a kitchen loaf (Fig. 210) cut quarter inch thick slices and from these obtain twenty oval- 
shaped crusts, each three inches long by two and a quarter inches wide; prepare a baking liver force- 
meat (No. 64) with fat pork and aromatic herbs; when cold pound it with a few parings of cooked 
foies-gras; rub this through a sieve. Put into a vessel about two gills of this purée, beat it with a 
spoon incorporating slowly into it three or four spoonfuls of good brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with 
Madeira till succulent and thick; add to the preparation a third as much cooked foies-gras cut insmall | 
dice and two chopped truffles. Take up the crusts one by one, dip them into a mixture of egg- 
yolks and raw cream that has been strained through a sieve and steep without deforming them, then 
cover the surfaces with a part of the above preparation, smooth it into a dome-shape, and take up 
the crusts with a palette to dip them entirely in beaten eggs; let drain and immerse in white bread- 
erumbs,-and plunge a few at the time into pieny of hot frying Hak to pee a fine color; 
drain, dress ona folded napkin and serve. ae ‘ 


(908). ORUSTS OF WOODCOCK (Grodites: a Bias 


tay ea kitchen loaf-of bread’(Fig,:210) atié from” it cut seven/6r | eight: nen slices, “ent ae 
threeé- eighths of an inch ‘thick; :-broww lightly iiselarifiéd butter ‘on one side: orily, then remdve them 
_ leaving thesbutter in thé:sautoire. *Pry ona briskfire:the titestinés Of t¥0 Wwood- 
cock with melted fat porkyamd afewgood chicken“livers; also two or three slices 
* of-calf's liver, aromatiedierbsttind: seasoning: ¢ Pound.“ thit "Preparation, rub it 
through.a sieve and:putithe pulpsinte’a vesselto-stir in with it afew spoonfuls of 
good, reduced and well:thickened ‘Madeira sauce-(No. 492), adding also four raw 
egg-yolks anda dash of nutmeg. With-this cover the browned sidés of the crusts, 
smoothing thesurfaces bomb-shaped. Return the crusts to the sautoire then set 
the pan on the oven to fry the bread underneath, and poach the: preparation. ~ Glaze the surface 
with a little meat glaze laid. on with a brush, remove from the pan, place them on a napkin to 
drain, then dress them on hot plates, and serve very hot. 





Fig. 222, 


(907), FONTAGE CROUSTADES A LA FLAVIGNAN (Croustades Fontage & la Flavignan), 
Into a vessel put four ounces of sifted flour, two or three egg-yolks, a little salt, and four 
iblespoonfuls of olive oil; mix all well together with a gill and a half of tepid water, adding a 
aa eer or a little compressed yeast the size of a three-eighths of an inch ball, diluting it in a 
‘tie luke warm water. Cover the vessel and place it iri a mild temperature of eighty degrees for 
yout two hours. Heat some lard on the fire, place in ita fontage iron (Fig. 174). As soon as the 
nm is hot, dip it almost entirely in the paste, take it out at once and plunge it into the hot frying 





SIDE DISHES. 383 


- fat and keep it there until the paste is cooked and can be detached from.the iron, then remove and 
inyert it on a grate to keep warm, while continuing the operation until a sufficient number are 
prepared, and just when serving fill them with aFlavignan salpicon (No. 744). 


(908). KULIBIAC, RUSSIAN (Coulibiac & la Russe), 

Dilute in a pint of warm milk, the third of an ounce of yeast; fill it up with half a pound of 
flour, and beat well with a spatula to form a very smooth leaven; let it rise to double in a mild 
temperature, then add to it half a pound of flour, half a pound of butter, six eggs, some cream and 
a little salt; beat it well with the spatula to obtain a smooth paste, then lay it on the table, make a 
hole in the middle and fill this with sufficient sifted flour that when mixing it with the hands it 
does not adhere, and set it away in a warm place for one hour. Break up the paste and bring it 
together again, and lay it aside in the ice-box. Roll it out to three-sixteenths of an inch in thick- 
ness, set this layer on a floured cloth, and place on it one inch and a quarter apart, 
round balls, an inch in diameter, made of the following preparation: Have a pound of 
‘salmon and bass cut in quarter inch squares; half a pound of mushrooms in three-sixteenth inch 
squares, fry them in butter and moisten with Madeira, then add the fish and some espagnole 
sauce (No. 414), two chopped hard boiled eggs, and four ounces of rice cooked in consommé 
{No. 189), salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chives. Dampen slightly with a brush around the forcemeat, 
and cover over with another layer of paste. Prepare a buttered baking sheet, cut out the kulibiacs 
with a small wheel if for squares, or else with a pastry cutter if for rounds, turn them overand lay 
them on a baking sheet and set them aside in a warm temperature, egg the surfaces twice, dredge 
alittle bread-crumbs over, besprinkle with butter and cook. They can be made in one entire piece, 
turning it over on a buttered sheet, egg the surface, dredge bread-crumbs over, besprinkle with 

butter, and when done cut them out with a knife; in either case dress them on folded napkins. 


(909), KULIBIAG SMOLENSKA (Coulibiac & la Smolenska), 

_ Fry a chopped shallot in butter without letting it attain a color, add a quarter of a pound of 
Yaw mushrooms cut in quarter inch squares, and when the moisture has evaporated, add carrots, 
turnips, and celery roots, all blanched and fried in butter, also some. cabbage; season with salt, 
black and red pepper, and moisten with some remoistening (No. 189), then let cook slowly in such 
a way that the moisture becomes thoroughly reduced when the vegetables are done; thicken it 
with half velouté (No. 415), and half espagnole (No. 414), and set it aside to get cold. Roll out 
some foundation paste (No. 185), to an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut from this round pieces 
three and a half inches in diameter, and fill the centers with the above preparation, shaping it into 
one and a half inch balls, wet the edges of the paste, and raise them up to join the opposite corners, 
pinch them well together to make them fasten, and range on a baking sheet; egg over the surfaces, 
and let them cook in a hot oven; serve on folded napkins. 


(910), CARDINAL MOUSSELINE (Mousseline au Cardinal), 
Forcemeats for mousselines are prepared . either with, chicken, game, or fish, the same~ “QS. eX- 
plained i in the Elementary Methods No. 86). Butter some’ “mousgelitié molds (No. 
= Fig. 138). with cold butter, and decorate with, fanciful cuts of truffles; at the 
‘bottom of éach mold place a ‘thin slice of, truffle, then dredge | all over. with, very 
finely chopped lobster coral so as to cover the SG completely. Fill with salmon 
mousseline forcemeat, poach.the same as -described in the. Elementary Methods 
‘Seg (No. 152), and dress on to a dish containing a little consommé; serve a cardinal 
Fig. 223. sauce (No. 442) separately. 


: Sikes 





(911), HAM MOUSSELINE OR MOUSSE A LA BELMONT, COSTA, VIRGINIENNE (Mousseline on 
Mousse de Jambon ala Belmont, 4 la Costa et 4 la Virginienne), 

Ala Belmont.—Chop very fine a pound of cooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of breast of 
chicken freed from nerves and fat. Add two dessertspoonfuls of cold béchamel sauce (No. 409), 
thickened with cream and eight egg-yolks, and pour in slowly three spoonfuls of good cream and 
one of Madeira. Add the same volume of well drained whipped cream as there is forcemeat, and 
finish the same as mousseline 4 la Costa. Serve separately a chicken essence (No. 387), thickened 
with rice flour, to which a little tomato purée (No. 730) is added, and some lean ham cut in very 
small dice. 

A la Costa.—Take one pound of raw, lean ham previously cut in small dice soaked in cold 
water for three hours, drain and pound with one-quarter of a pound of chicken breasts previously 


384 THE EPICUREAN. 


run through the machine (Fig. 147), then press the meat through a fine sieve and put this in @ 
metal pan on the ice, work and add gradually the volume of one pint of well drained not sweetened 
whipped cream and a teaspoonful of fecula. Butter some mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig.- 138), 
dredge over some finely chopped, cooked, lean ham, fill the molds with preparation and poached 
as explained (No. 152), dress on a dish having a little consommé in it. Serve separately a West- 
phalian sauce (No. 561). ae | 

Ala Virginienne.-—Chop finely a quarter of a pound of raw or cooked, lean Virginia ham, also a. 
quarter of a pound of chicken breasts, mix the two together and pound, add béchamel sauce (No. 409), 
pass through a fine sieve, adding two soupspoonfuls of tomato purée (No. 730), and one teaspoonful 
of fecula; mix with this the same volume of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), put in a thin basin 
on ice and add to it the volume of one pint of well drained unsweetened whipped cream, finish the 
same as dla Costa. Serve separately a champagne sauce (No. 445). 


(912), ISABELLA MOUSSELINE (Mousseline Isabelle), 


Decorate mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 188) with red beef tongue and truffles; 
fill them with mousseline game forcemeat (No. 87), made either with snipe, plovers, 
doe-birds, or woodcock, finish them precisely the same as for the cardinal (No. 
910); dress and serve separately a marsala sauce (No. 492), with chopped truffles. 





Fig. 224. 
(913), MARECHALE MOUSSELINE (Mousseline & la Maréchale), 

Decorate mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138) with truffles and tongue, as in the 
accompanying design (Fig. 225), garnish them with a poultry mousseline forcemeat. 
(No. 86), made with turkey, and finish exactly the same as for the cardinal (No. 
910), serve separately a well buttered allemande sauce (No. 407), with finely minced 
oronges or mushrooms added. 





Fic. 225. 


(914), RICHMOND MOUSSELINE (Mousseline & la Richmond), 


Decorate the molds with tongue and truffles as shown in Fig. 226, fill them 
with a game mousseline forcemeat (No. 87), made either with hare, rabbit, or 
grouse, and finish as described for cardinal (No. 910). Dress, and serve with 
a separate sauce-boat of a well buttered financiere sauce (No. 464). 





(915), ROBERTSON HAM MOUSSELINE (Mousseline de Jambon & la Robertson), 
Chop up finely or grate a quarter of a pound of lean ham; put it into a saucepan with half a 
pint of tomato purée (No. 730), and half a pint of béchamel (No. 409), strain 
through a fine sieve and let get cold. Pound in a mortar one pound of chicken 
fillets after passing them twice through the machine (Fig. 47); mix in with this. 
two egg-whites, and the above prepared sauce, press through a fine sieve, and 
stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat (No. 63), and the value of one quart: 
of whipped cream. Fill some molds (No. 2, Fig. 188) previously decorated with 
Fie. 2%. truffles as shown in the plate with this preparation, and finish them the same as 


for the cardinal (No. 910), and send to the table with a separate sauce-boat of 
half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with ham added. 





(916), MOUSSELINE A LA WALESKY (Monsseline & la Walesky). 


Decorate the mousselines with truffles, tongue, and pistachios, as shown in 
Fig. 228, fill half the molds with duck mousseline prepared the same as chicken 
mousseline (No. 86), and half with Guinea fowl mousseline (No. 87), and finish 


the same as for the cardinal (No. 910). Serve separately a Colbert sauce (No. 
451), buttered just when ready to use. 


(917). MOUSSELINE OF WHITE GAME A LA MEDIOIS (Mousseline de Gibier 
Blanc & la Médicis), 

Prepare a game mousseline forcemeat as described in the Elementary Methods 
(No. 87), made either with pheasants, partridges, or quails. Decorate some molds. 
NS with truffles the same as shown in Fig. 229, and fill them with the mousseline 

Fig, 229. (No. 2, Fig. 188) foreemeat made of any of the above or other white game; finish 


: exactly as for the cardinal (No. 910), and serve with a buttered allemande sauce 
(No. 407), containing mushrooms cut into small Julienne (No. 318). 








SIDE DISHES. 335. 


(918). WOODCOCK MOUSSELINE (Mousseline de Bécasses), 

Prepare a mousseline forcemeat made with the meats from woodcock as indicated! 
in Elementary Methods (No. 87); mix in with it a few spoonfuls of truffles cut im 
small squares an eighth of an inch in size; with this forcemeat fill some mous-- 
seline molds (No. 2, Fig. 188) decorated with truffles and red beef tongue as shown: 
in Fig. 230; smooth the tops and poach as explained (No. 152). At the last mo- 
ment take out the mousselines, cover the bottom of the dish with a little consommé: 
(No. 189), unmold and dress them in a circle. Serve separately an éspagnole sauce 
(No. 414), reduced with game fumet (No. 397), having prepared it with the woodcock parings. 


(919), MOUSSELINE OF YOUNG RABBIT (Mousseline de Lapereaw), 

Pound three-quarters of a pound of the fillet meat taken from a raw young rabbit, rub it 
through a sieve, and return it to the mortar to mix in six egg-volks, one by one, and a quarter of 
a pound of fresh butter divided in pieces. Put this preparation into a thin iron vessel and heat it 
up for ten minutes incorporating into it slowly a quart and a half in volume of unsweetened whip- 
ped cream. Butter and decorate the mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138) with truffles; fill them 
with the preparation and poach in a bain-marie in avery slack oven. After removing the: 
mousseline from the oven, let it rest two minutes before unmolding on a hot dish containing: 
a little consommé (No. 189). Serve separately some good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with: 
the fumet of young rabbit (No. 397). 


(920), PALMETTES (Palmettes), 

Palmettes are molded in bottomless molds, made of tin bands three-eighths of an inch ir 
height, and heart-shape, from three to three and a half inches on the longest side by two anda 
half on its widest, and being three inches long in the center of the heart. These 
molds are to be buttered and laid on sheets of very strong paper, cut three 
inches by four, and buttered on one side; place the molds on this buttered side 
and fill them with a mousseline force-meat (No. 86), made either of fish, chicken or 
game, to which has been added various salpicons. Instead of the mousseline force- 
meat, a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and a cream forcemeat (No. 74) (an equal quantity 
of each), may be substituted. The palmettes should only be slightly poached, hav- 
ing them of a sufficient consistency to allow them to be bread-crumbed without 
breaking; they must first be dipped in eggs and then in bread-crumbs, and fried in Fic. 23f. 
white and yery hot fat; when a fine color they are to be dressed crown-shaped, and 
garnished with small frill favors (No. 10). The pointed ends of these trimmed handles are inserted’ 
‘into the point ends of the palmettes. Serve at the same time as the palmettes, but separately, a. 
light sauce. 


| 


Fiag. 230. 





\) 
it 





(921), JUNOT PALMETTES (Palmettes a la Junot, 

Prepare a plover or woodcock mousseline (No. 87), adding to it some finely minced mush-- 
rooms and velouté sauce (No. 415); fill the molds, poach, and finish them exactly the same as. for 
(No. 920); fry them in clarified butter, dress them crown shaped on a napkin and garnish with favor’ 
frills (No. 10). Serve separately a salmis sauce (No. 536), with some truffles cut in three-sixteenths 
of an inch squares. 


(922), PERIER PALMETTES (Palmettes & la Périer), 

Mix half pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) with half chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), and 
garnish the centers of the palmettes with a salpicon of shrimps mingled with a well buttered: 
béchamel (No. 409) cover with more forcemeat, then poach, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified 
butter. Fill with chicken forcemeat some dome-shaped molds an inch and a quarter in diameter, 
previously buttered and decorated with truffles; poach, unmold and lay them on the widest part 
of the palmettes; garnish with a favor frill (No. 10), and serve with a separate sauce-boat of @ 
buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 418) with chopped mushrooms and truffles added. 


(993). PRIMATIOE PALMETTES (Palmettes & la Primatice), 

Fill some palmette molds with a doe-bird or plover quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) finished with: 
an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and game fumet (No. 397); add to it some chopped truffles, and poactks. 
the forcemeat in a moderate oven; unmold, and dip the palmettes into eggs, and roll them in bread- 
crumbs mixed with finely chopped ham, fry them in clarified butter till a fine color. Then drain. 
and dress them, garnishing with favor frills (No. 10). Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413} 
with tongue, mushrooms, and truffles, cut into very small squares, added to it. 


386 THE EPICUREAN. 


(924), VARSOVIAN PALMETTES (Palmettes & la Varsovienne), 


To be made with a chicken mousseline forcemeat (No. 86), mixed with a salpicon of truffles, 
tongue, and mushrooms, cut in eighth of an inch squares, having two ounces of each for every 
pound of forcemeat; fill the molds, poach, unmold, and bread-crumb them, then fry in clarified 
butter. Garnish with favor frills (No. 10), range them on a napkin, and send to the table with 
a sauce boat of velouté sauce (No. 415), with raw fine herbs added. 


(925), PALMETTES OF FAT LIVERS DELMONTES (Palmettes de Foies-Gras & la Delmontés), 


Pound well together half a pound of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), a quarter of a pound of 
foies-gras, and half a pound of cream forcemeat (No. 75). Butter some palmette molds, fill them 
with this preparation, poach, unmold, then bread-crumb, and fry them nicely; dress them on 
folded napkins, garnish each one with a favor frill (No. 10) and serve with a separate sauce-boat 
of sherry or Madeira sauce (No. 492), with truffles and lean ham, hoth cut in eighth of an inch 
squares, added. 


(926), PALMETTES OF GUINEA FOWL AND WILD DUCK, PALADIO (Palmettes de Pintade ou 
de Canard Sauvage a la Paladio). 


Make a game mousseline forcemeat with Guinea fowl, and as much redhead duck (No. 87), 
mixing in some cooked fine herbs; fill the molds, poach, unmold, bread-crumb and fry them 
exactly the same as for No. 920. Dress them crown-shaped and serve separately a Parisian 
tomato sauce (No. 550), strained through a very fine sieve, trimming the palmettes with favor frills 
(No. 10). 


(927), PALMETTES OF HAM A L’AQUITAINE (Palmettes de Jambon & Aquitaine), 


Make with ham mousseline (No. 911), and finish the same as for No. 920, only frying the 
palmettes in oil. Infuse’a small stick of cinnamon in Madeira wine, reduce it with half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413), strain, and add mushrooms, truffles, and beef palate all cut in small two-six- 
teenth inch squares; serve this separately. 


(928), PALMETTES OF HARE AND YOUNG RABBIT, POLISH (Palmettes de Liévre ou de Lapereau 
a la Polonaise) 


Have a mousseline forcemeat made with hare or young rabbit (No. 87), adding to it truffles 
and mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares; fill the molds, poach, unmold, egg and bread- 
crumb, then fry them a fine color in clarified butter. Garnish with favor frills (No. 10), and serve 
on napkins. A velouté sauce (No. 415) with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) to be served 
separately. 


(929), PALMETTES OF PHEASANTS A LA TORRENS (Palmettes de Faisans & la Torrens), 


Have ready a game mousseline forcemeat (No. 87) prepared with pheasant’s meat; add to it 
some finely shred, cooked lean ham, and fill the molds with this, poach, unmold and fry the 
palmettes the same as for No. 920. Serve with a hunter’s sauce (No. 480) separate, after decorating 
with favor frills (No. 10). pe 


(930), PALMETTES OF PULLET OR CAPON, CLINTON (Palmettes de Poularde ou de Chapon & la 
Clinton), 

Prepare the palmette molds as indicated in No. 920; fill them only half full, and in the center 

place a foies-gras purée made from some Strasburg paté of foies-gras pressed through a sieve; 

finish filling the molds, poach, unmold, bread-crumb and fry them inclarified butter; trim with 


favor frills (No. 10), and serve with a separate sauce-boatful of white Colbert sauce (No. 451) 
with chopped truffles. 


(931), PALMETTES OF QUAILS OR PARTRIDGES, AFRICAN (Palmettes de Oailles ou de Perdrea 
a |’ Africaine), | 
Ha ve ready some heart-shaped molds as already described in No. 920; fill them with a quail 
or partridge mousseline forcemeat (No. 87), with a quarter of its quantity of foies-gras cut in one- 
eighth inch squares; poach them very slightly, just sufficient to allow them to be bread-crumbed 


2 ig 





SIDE DISHES. 387° 


atter dipping in eggs, and fry them to a fine color; trim with favor frills (No. 10); serve them 
crown-shaped on a folded napkin, and send to the table with a separate sauce-boat of African 
sauce (No. 424). 


(932). PALMETTES OF SNIPE WITH TRUFFLES A LA OSBORN (Palmettes de Bécassines aux 
. Truffes & la Osborn), 


Have half a pound of snipe or game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), diluted with two gills of 
espagnole (No. 414); let it get cold on the ice, and beat into it the value of a pint of whipped cream, 
adding two ounces of truffles cut into one-eighth inch squares. Fill the molds described in article 
No. 920, poach, unmold, egg and bread-crumb the palmettes, then fry them a fine color, drain, 
dress and trim with favor frills (No. 10). Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced 
with a snipe fumet sauce (No. 397) with chopped truffles added. 


(933). PALMETTES OF TURKEY A LA BEARNAISE (Palmettes de Dinde & la Béarnaise), 


Mix with a cream and turkey forcemeat (No. 75), a quarter of its quantity of soubise (No. 723), 
fill the palmette molds with this, laying slices of foies-gras in the center, poach, and finish them 
exactly the same as described in No. 920, serve separately a béarnaise sauce (No. 438). 


(934), PATTIES A L'ANDALOUSE (Bouchées & l'Andalouse), 


Prepare puff paste bouchées as already explained in the’ Elementary Methods (No. 11). Cook 
them only shortly before they are needed, so as not to be obliged to heat them over again, and 
when done, remove the covers and empty out the insides, fill these with a 
salpicon of cooked, smoked ham, artichoke bottoms, chicken quenelles, and mush- 
rooms, ail cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and mingled with Marsala 
wine sauce (No. 492). Dress them pyramidically on a napkin and serve. 


(935), CRAWEISH, CRAB, OYSTER CRAB, SHRIMP OR LOBSTER PATTIES 


(Bouchées d'Ferevisses, de Orabes, de Crabes d’Huitres, de Crevettes ou de Homard’, 

Make a dozen small puff paste patties the same as for No. 9384. Cut asalpicon of 
cooked crawfish tails; put it intoa bowl and mix in half as many cooked mushrooms, both being cut 
into three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Set on the fire to reduce a few spoonfuls of velouté (No. 
415), incorporating slowly into it the mushroom liquor, and a few spoonfuls of the broth the craw- 
fish tails were cooked in, finishing with a piece of lobster butter (No. 580), thicken the salpicon 
with this sauce, and use it to fill the patties; cover them with their own lids, and dress on folded 
napkins. By following this method cooked and firm fish meat can be used for filling bouchées, 
besides crabs, oyster crabs, lobsters, or shrimps, ete. 





(936), PUREE OF GAME PATTIES (Bouchées de Purée de Gibier). 


Prepare them exactly as for A l’Andalouse (No. 934), put into a saucepan some game purée 
(No. 716), either of snipe, partridge, quail, pheasant or young rabbit; heat it without boiling over 
aslow fire, incorporating into it a few spoonsfuls of half-glaze (No. 400); season, finish with a 
small piece of fine butter, garnish the patties, dress and serve very hot. 


(937), FRESH MUSHROOM PATTIES (Bouchées de Champignons Frais), 
Cut some raw fresh mushrooms in squares, fry them in butter, and add to them some cream 
and béchamel sauce (No. 409), thickened with egg-yolks, and fresh butter, add some chopped 
parsley. Finish exactly the same as for No. 984. 


(938), PATTIES ALA REINE (Bouchées & la Reine), 


Pound well half a pound of white meat taken from the breast of a cooked chicken, using the 
same quantity of rice; press through a sieve, and set the purée into a saucepan to heat without 
boiling, incorporating into it one ounce of fine butter, and season with a little salt; if it should 
be too thick, add some cream. The chicken purée may be replaced by a small salpicon of white 
chicken’ meat cut in eighth of an inch squares, and added to a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced 
with cream. Instead of using the puff paste lid, lay on top a round piece of truffle, three-quarters 
of an inch in diameter, and an eighth of an inch in thickness, glazed with a little meat 
glaze (No. 402). 


388 THE EPICUREAN. 


(939), SCOLLOP, OYSTER, CLAM, OR MUSSEL PATTIES (Bouchées de Pétoncles, d’Huitres, Luci- 
nes ou Moules). 


Blanch oysters or clams in their own juice. Cook mussels in white wine with pepper and 
a few drops of vinegar; scollops in a little white wine. Drain and cut either of these into quarter: 
inch squares, fry them in some butter ona hot fire, and cover with a velouté sauce (No. 415) 
thickening the sauce with egg-yolks, and fresh butter. Fill the patties and serve them very hot. 


(940), SWEETBREAD PATTIES, FRENOH STYLE (Bouchées de Ris de Veau & la ‘Fran-. 
gaise), 


Soak and blanch some sweetbreads in hot water, then refresh and let get cold before cutting. 
them up into thin slices; season, cook or fry on. both sides in oil, without browning, then press to a. 
quarter inch thick when cool, and cut them into small quarter inch dice. Lay this salpicon in a. 
small saucepan, and add to it half its quantity of cooked mushrooms, and a quarter as much salted 
but unsmoked red beef tongue cut the same size, dilute this salpicon with a sauce made of broth: 
(No. 194a), and fecula which has previously been diluted with cold broth; let simmer for a few 


moments, season and use it to fill some puff paste bouchées made with beef suet instead of butter — 


(No. 146); range and dress them pyramidically on folded napkins, heating them for a few seconds. 
at the oven door before sending to the table. 


(941), TURBIGO PATTIES (Bouchées Turbigo), 


These are made with three-sixteenths of an inch dice of duck’s livers, truffles and 
artichoke bottoms, mixed with a tomato purée (No. 730), pressed through a very fine sieve, adding 
the same quantity of well reduced velouté sauce (No. 415). Heat well and thicken with egg-yolks 
and cream; fill the patties with this garnishing, and replace the covers by a small half inch ball of 
foies-gras taken from the terrine and passed through a fine sieve, dipped in eggs, bread-crumbed. 
and fried. 


(942), VICTORIA PATTIES (Bouchées & la Victoria), 


Cut in three-sixteenths inch dice, some lobster meat and truffles; cover them with a lobster sauce: 
(No. 488), adding a dash of cayenne pepper, heat well without boiling, and fill the prepared. 
patties (No. 934). Range them on folded napkins and serve hot. 


(943), SALPICON OF FOIES-GRAS, MONTGLAS, REGENCE, ROYAL PATTIES (Bouchées de 
Salpicon de Foies-gras, Montglas, Régence, Royale). 


Either of foies-gras salpicon (No. 743), montglas (No. 747), régence (No. 750), or royal (No. 
751). After the patties (No. 934) are cooked, remove the covers, empty the insides, and fill with. 
either of the above salpicons. Dress them very hot on napkins, and serve at once. 


(944), PUFF PASTE PATTIES OF VEAL GODIVEAU WITH CHIVES, CRACOVIAN, MAZARIN 
OR ST. HUBERT (Petits Patés Feuilletés de Godiveau, aux Ciboulettes Oracovienne,. 
Mazarin ou St. Hubert), 


Small patties are frequently served as a hot hors-d’ceuvre; they should be cooked only while. 
the oysters are being eaten, so to have them ready to send to the table after the soup. 


Small Patties of Veal Godiveau.—Roll out thin some fragments of puff paste; remove 
from it round pieces two and a half inches in diameter, turn them over on to. 
a baking sheet slightly wetted with water, using a brush for the purpose, and 
lay in the center of each a veal godiveau (No. 85) ball, one inch and a quarter 
in diameter. Moisten the paste around the godiveau with a brush slightly 
———— wetted with water, and place on top another puff paste round, three-sixteenths of 
Fie. 233. an inch in thickness; turn them over, and fasten the two edges together. Mark 
some lines on the top of the paste with the back of the pastry cutter an inch and. 
a half in diameter, egg the surfaces twice, and cook them in a brisk oven for fifteen minutes. 

Small Patties of Godiveau with Chives. —Fill the patties with some veal godiveau (No. 85), to 
which has been mixed some chopped chives and parsley. 


Small Patties of Godiveau Cracovian are made with pike godiveau (No. 83), and cooked fine 
herbs, and garnished and finished like patties of godiveau of veal. 








‘SIDE DISHES. | 389 


Small Patties Mazarin.—Take chicken godiveau (No. 82) and mix with it truffles, tongue and 
mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares, also some raw fine herbs; finish the same as for 
the veal godiveau (No. 85). : 


Small Patties a la St. Hubert, are to be made with game godiveau (No. 84), mixing in with 
it truffles, mushrooms, tongue cut in squares and some glaze (No. 402), and finishing exactly the 
same as the veal godiveau (No. 85). 


(945), PUFF PASTE SALMON PATTIES—SMALL (Petits PAtés Feuilletés de Saumon), 


Prepare a fish forcemeat (No. 83) with salmon meat, and a third part of pike; after being 
pressed through a sieve, putit in a bowl, and render it smooth, mixing in with it two or three 
spoonfuls of chopped up cooked truffles and a small piece of anchovy butter (No. 569). With this 
prenaration and some puff paste make about fifteen small patties the same as described in No. 934, 
egg the surfaces and cook them in a good oven; when done remove them from the baking sheet 
and serve on folded napkins. 


(946), GOLDEN BUCK, WELSH RAREBIT A LA OUTTING OR YORKSHIRE (Golden Buck, 
Welsh Rarebit 4 la Cutting ou Yorkshire), 


Golden Buck.—Cut some best quality American cheese; not too fresh, into five-eighths of 
an inch squares, put these into a sautéing pan with half a gill of beer, and a pinch of red pepper, 
place the pan ona hot fire, and stir well the mixture with a small wire whisk until the cheese is 
melted and flowing. Lay on a serving dish two slices of toasted bread, each three and a half 
inches wide, and three-eighths of an inch thick; cut them slanting into four parts so as to obtain 
four triangles, then lay them together again to form the original square, and pour over the melted 
cheese; on each of the triangles place a well drained poached egg, and serve immediately. 


Welsh Rarebit.—Is made exactly the same as the golden buck, suppressing the poached eggs. 


Welsh Rarebit a la Cutting.—Use exactly the same preparation as the ordinary Welsh rarebit, 
only the cheese to be a little thinner, and add to it just when ready to serve a well beaten egg, 
stirring it thoroughly with the cheese, but at the same time watch well that it does not boil; pour 
this preparation on to the prepared toasts. 


Yorkshire Rarebit.—Is finished by having two poached eggs, and two slices of bacon for each 
slice of toast. 


(946a), CHESTER CRUSTS (Crotites au Chester), 


Cut some slices from a kitchen loaf, not too thin, fry them in butter on one side only in a flat 
saucepan or frying-pan; drain and cover the fried side with a thick layer of Chester cheese, sprinkle 
ever with a pinch of cayenne pepper. Lay the crust again in the pan with more butter and push 
into a hot oven. When the cheese becomes creamy, the under part of the crusts should be dry, 
then remove from the oven and serve. 


(947), RISSOLES OF BRAIN, PRINCETOWN (Rissoles de Cervelles & la Princetown). 


Roll out a thin layer of brioche paste (No. 130), cut round pieces from it with a three inch in 
diameter pastry cutter. Stir into two ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of 
very finely chopped onions, and add to it a pint and a half of reduced 
allemande sauce (No. 407). Cut half a pound of brains into quarter inch 
dice pieces; wipe them dry, and fry them in butter on a hot fire with half 
their quantity of mushrooms, season and add this to the prepared sauce, 
then lay it aside to get cold. With this preparation garnish the pieces, Fra. 234. 
forming it into balls each an inch and a half in diameter; moisten around, 
and fold the paste over in two, then set it aside to rise in a moderately warm place; when double 
the original size, fry the rissoles slowly until they are cooked and of a nice color, then dress them 
on folded napkins, and serve. 





(948), RISSOLES OF CHICKEN (Rissoles de Volaille), 
Slice half a pound of chicken and cut it into Julienne (No. 318), as well as four ounces of mush- 
rooms and two ounces of peeled truffles; mix them in with five gills of velouté sauce (No. 415) 
previously thickened with raw egg-yolks, cream and butter; set it on the fire, and stir steadily 


390 , THE EPICUREAN. 


until it boils, then remove and set the preparation aside to cool. With this preparation make 
some rissoles; bread- crumb them the same as explained in No. 161 and fry in very hot white 
frying fat; dress on a folded napkin and decorate the top with fried parsley. All rissoles are 
dressed and decorated the same. 


(949), RISSOLES OF ORAWFISH A LA BEATRICE (Rissoles d’Ecrevisses & la Béatrice) 


Poach some pike forcemeat (No. 76) three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, then cut it up 
irto squares; add to these half as much crawfish cut into the same sized pieces, half the quantity of 
farcemeat as mushrooms and half the quantity of mushrooms as truffles. Reduce this salpicon 
down with cream béchamel (No. 411) thickened with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, and with 
this preparation proceed to make rissoles the same as explained in No. 947. Serve on folded napkins. 


(950). RISSOLES A LA DEMIDOFF (Rissoles & la Demidoff), 


Roll out some brioche paste (No. 130) to ‘one-eighth of an inch in thickness; divide it into 
rounds with a channelled three and a half inch in diameter pastry cutter, and lay in the center of 
each a ball of preparation an inch and a half in diameter. Wet around these, fold over, and fasten 
the two edges together, then lay them on a floured cloth, and leave them to rise ina mild tempera- 
ture until double their height; fry them slowly in very hot fat so that the paste be thoroughly 
cooked and serve when done on folded napkins. For the preparation cut about two ounces of 
mushrooms, two ounces of truffles and two ounces of breast of pheasant; heat well with velouté 
sauce (No. 415) until boiling point; allow to cool; use this preparation to garnish the rissoles. 


(951), BISSOLES OF FAT LIVERS A LA UDBE (Rissoles de Foies-Gras & la Ude), 


Take out the contents of a pound terrine of foies-gras; remove all the grease from the force- 
meat, and cut the liver into three-sixteenths inch squares, and put them aside in a very cool place. 
Pound the forcemeat found around the liver without any of the grease, add to it nine raw egg- 
yolks, season to taste, and put in with it two tablespoonfuls of chicken glaze (No. 398), and 
the fat liver cut in pieces. Roll out very thin some fragments of puff paste, having it only 
an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut with a channeled pastry cutter round pieces, three inches in 
diameter, and lay in the center of each, an inch and a quarter sized ball. Moisten around with a 
brush slightly wetted with cold water, fold them over, fasten well the edges so that the interior is 


hermetically enclosed, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat - 


1or a sufficient length of time, to allow the paste to cook properly; dress them on a dish oyer a 
1olded napkin. 


(952), RISSOLES OF GAME, CHICKEN OR FISH FORCEMEAT, BEEF OR VEAL PALATE OR 
LAMB (Rissoles de Farce de Gibier, de Volaille, ou de Poisson de Palais de Bouf ou de. 
Veau, ou d’Agneau), 


For the rissoles of game, chicken, or fish forcemeat see No. 63. Mix in with either of these 


some raw fine herbs; prepare and finish the same as for the rissoles in Elementary Methods 
(No. 161). 


Beef or Veal Palate.—Cut a pound of beef or veal palate into three-sixteenth inch squares; 
have also six ounces of cooked lean ham cut the same and put them with some béchamel (No. 409) 
and melted meat-glaze (No. 402); set aside to get quite cold. Roll out fragments of puff paste and 
finish the rissoles as for No. 161. Serve on folded napkins. 


Lamb.—Chop up finely one medium sized shallot; fry it in butter, and add to it both velouté 
(No. 415) and tomato sauce (No. 549); stir in a pound of cold lean roast lamb cut in three-six- 
teenth inch squares, season to taste, transfer it to a vessel to set aside until perfectly cold, then 
form it into rissoles the same as for No. 161, and serve on folded napkins. 


(953), RISSOLES OF MUSHROOM AND MARROW (Rissoles de Champignons & la Moelle), 


Cut half a pound of mushrooms into dice shaped pieces, and fry them on the fire with two 
ounces of butter, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and a bay leaf, two ounces of 
sliced raw ham, and a teaspoonful of flour, also two spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414), a little 
proth, and some salt; let these all cook slowly, skim off the fat, and when done add the juice of a 


mon, and set the preparation aside to get cold; finish them the same as explained a la Ude 
(No. 951). 


ta 


ee ie 





SIDE DISHES. , . 391 


For Marrow.—Out in half inch slices and soak for three hours, changing the water several 
times; throw them into boiling broth, and when done, drain and coat over with some well reduced 


half-glaze (No. 400) with red pepper, and finish the same as the mushroom rissoles. Serve very’ 
hot on napkins. 


(954), RISSOLES OF RED TONGUE OR OF SWEETBREADS (Rissoles de Langue Ecarlate ou de: 
| Ris de Veau). 7 


Red Tongue.—Reduce one pint anda half of espagnole sauce (No. 414), with a little meat glaze- 
(No. 402), and two spoonfuls of Madeira wine, add to it one pound of red veal tongue cooked and: 
cooled under a weight, then cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, eight ounces of mushrooms and! 
two ounces of truffles, the two latter articles being cut into eighth of inch pieces; heat the mixture 
well until boiling point is reached, then set it aside to get cold. Use this preparation for making the- 
rissoles the same as No. 161, and serve them on folded napkins. 


Sweetbreads.— Fry one ounce of chopped up onions in butter with one pound of braised sweet- 
breads previously pressed under a weight to reduce it to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, 
then cut into Julienne; add some cooked and well drained mushrooms, diluting the whole with 
velouté sauce (No. 415), thicken properly with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, add chopped 
parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, set this preparation aside to cool and finish the rissoles as for 
No. 161. Serve on folded napkins. 


(955), RISSOLES OF PARTRIDGE A LA WADDINGTON (Rissoles de Perdreaux & la Waddington). 


Chop up very fine one pound of raw partridge meat free of nerves, with five ounces of blanched 
fat pork, and five ounces of beef marrow; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then add two 
ounces of chopped up truffles, one whole egg, and a tablespoonful of half-glaze (No. 400); make 
rissole balls with this preparation the same way as explained for No. 947; dress them when 
finished in pyramids on a napkin, garnishing with a bunch of fried parsley. 


(956), RISSOLETTES A LA POMPADOUR (Rissolettes & la Pompadour), 


Rissolettes are made with very thin pancakes, cutting them into round pieces two and a half 
inches in diameter; the salpicon ball to be aninch; they are fastened together by a string of 
chicken forcemeat (No. 89), a quarter of an inch thick, and laid on one-half of the circles. The 
paste for the pancakes is composed of half a pound of flour, stirring gradually into it, five eggs, a 
little milk, salt and two ounces of melted butter; the paste must be liquid. Put some clarified 
butter into small frying pans, add a little of the paste and spread it around so as to form very 
thin pancakes; when done lay them ona cloth, and cut from them witha round two anda half 
inch in diameter pastry cutter, pieces for the rissolettes. 

Rissolettes & la Pompadour.—Have a small Julienne salpicon of beef palate and mushrooms 
‘mixed with a little well-reduced and well-seasoned béchamel (No. 409), set into a vessel to get cold. 
Make a ball of this preparation one inch in diameter, and lay it on the center of one of the 
pancake rounds, two and a half inches wide; fold the pancake and fasten the two edges together 
with a string of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and 
fry them to a fine color. Serve on folded napkins. 


(957), RISSOLETTES A LA RENAN (Rissolettes & la Renan), 


Prepare a chicken purée by pounding together half a pound of chicken and half a pound of 
rice cooked in white broth, adding half a pint of béchamel (No. 409), two ounces of fresh butter 
and some meat glaze (No. 402); season, press through a tammy, let get thoroughly cold, then finish 
making the rissolettes the same as for & la pompadour (No. 956). 


(958), RISSOLETTES ALA SOLFERINO (Rissolettes & la Solférino), 
Cut some foies-gras, truffles, mushrooms, quenelles and sweetbreads into small three-sixteenth 
inch squares; put this salpicon into a well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), and when cold make: 
the rissolettes with this salpicon, the same as for 4 la pompadour (No. 956). 


RA THE EPICUREAN. 


(959), TIMBALES, REMARKS ON (Observations sur les Timbales), 


There are several kinds of timbales; those made with a very thin timbale paste; those of que- 
nelle forcemeat and those of cream forcemeat, either of chicken, game or fish. The name timbale 
should only be applied to those made of paste cylindrical-shaped like a footless goblet, or a silver 
mug, or else half spherical-shaped in imitation of the kettle-drum used in an orchestra and filled 
with a garnishing of some kind. A ‘‘bung” would better represent the idea of what is commonly 
eatled timbale, and I would suggest the adoption of the French of bung ‘“‘bondon,” for I 
scarcely believe that the elegance of the bill of fare would be marred by reading: ‘‘ Bondons of 
Pickerel & la Walton,” or ‘‘ Bondons of Chicken 4 la Reine,” or ‘‘ Bondons of Woodcock a la 
Diane,” or ‘‘ Bondons of Pheasants 4.la Benois.” I have not the slightest intention of changing 
the conventional name. I only suggest an idea that might he advantageously followed if so de- 
sired. For making timbales cylindrical molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) two and five-eighths inches wide 
by two and one-eighth inches high are generally used; butter the insides with fresh unmelted 
utter and decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles, tongue, pistachios, etc. They may also be strewn 
with truffles, tongue, lobster coral and pistachios, all these being chopped up finely and separate- 
ly, then dried in the air. Fill with forcemeat either with or without a salpicon, then poach; for 
this consult Elementary Methods (No. 152). Invert on to a dish containing a little consommé 
aud serve the sauce that accompanies the timbales separately. 


(960). TIMBALES A LA BEAUMARCHAIS (Timbales & la Beaumarchais), 


Make a salpicon with mushrooms and foies-gras cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; 
mix them in an espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with game essence (No. 389) 
and let get cold. Butter and decorate the molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) with a large 
truffle ring at the bottom, and a small piece of truffle in the center of this; ornament 
the sides with eight perpendicular thin slices of truffles each three-sixteenths of an 
inch wide, laid at equal distances apart around the mold; cover the bottom and 
eo i sides with a game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); in the middle place a half inch in 
Fic, 285. diameter ball of the salpicon, lay over more forcemeat, and poach the timbales as 

in No. 152. Serve separately a half-glazesauce (No. 418), with essence of game 
{No. 389) and Rhine wine added. 





(961), TIMBALES A LA BENTON (Timbales a la Benton). 


Line some buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) with some timbale paste 
(No. 150), havingit rolled out as thinly as possible; fill up the interior with 
buttered paper stuffed with flour, cover the top with a layer of the paste and pinch 
the edges with a pastry tong; egg over the surface twice, and cook it in a moderate 
oven; when done uncover, empty out, unmold, and brush the timbales with eggs 
and set them in the oven to color nicely. Fill them with a salpicon of truffles, 


tongue, mushrooms and chicken mingled with a buttered allemande sauce (No. 
407). 





(962), TIMBALES A LA CALAISIENNE (Timbales & la Oalaisienne), 


Prepare the timbales the same as for & la Benton (No. 961). Have a 
garnishing of either poached oysters or mussels, or else of both, and crawfish, 
or shrimps cooked and shelled. Cut the mussels into five-eighths of an inch squares, 
and the crawfish or shrimps into quarter of an inch pieces; reduce a normande 
|} sauce (No. 509), with the oyster juice or some mushroom broth, and add to it a 
soa _ little fish glaze (No. 399); put the garnishing and sauce together, heat well, and fill — 
Fic. 237. the timbales with it. Place on top a cover composed of three rolled out layers of 
puff paste, each one-eighth of an inch in thickness, the bottom one measuring an 


en and a half across, the next one an inch anda quarter, and the top one three-quarters of an 
inch. 





(963), TIMBALES A LA CHEVALIERE (Timbales & la Chevaliére), 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) using kneaded butter, but neither melted nor 
wet. Decorate the sides with pieces of sweet noodle paste (No. 142), executed by cutting out 





SIDE DISHES. 393 


fanciful pieces and laying them on the sides in a design formed of two back to back crescents, 
divided by three rounds of different sizes, the largest one on the top and deereasing 
in size to the bottom, moisten the noodle paste. Line the molds with a thin 
timbale paste (No. 150) without disturbing the decoration. Fill inside with some 
buttered paper and flour, cover over with a layer of thin paste, cut it evenly 
around the top, and pinch the edges with a pastry tong. Cook the timbales in 
a moderate oven; remove the lid and the insides, and brush over the paste with 
some glaze, then garnish with foies-gras, mushrooms, and balls of truffles, the 
whole combined with a Madeira sauce (No. 492). Lay on top some cocks’-combs 
and kidneys rolled in a little meat glaze (No. 402), arranging them tastefully. 


(964), DUCHESS TIMBALES (Timbales & la Duchesse), 

Prepare a salpicon of truffles, foies-gras, artichoke bottoms, and rings of olives, made by 
removing the stones with a tin tube, and cutting them in slices across; mix with 
a well reduced financiére sauce (No. 464), and let get cold. Decorate the bottom 
of the mold (No. 2, Fig. 187) with a ring of truffle, and fill in the empty space of 
this with some chopped up pistachios; Jay at equal distances at lower edge of the 
side of the mold, ten small round pieces of beef tongue, each one three-sixteenths of 
an inch in circumference; and from these set bands of truffle perpendicularly 
reaching to the top of the mold, each one being three-sixteenths of an inch in 
width; garnish the bottom and sides with a layer of quenelle chicken forcemeat 
{No. 89), and place in the center a half inch diameter ball of the salpicon; cover with more 
forcemeat, then poach and finish the same as for No. 959. Serve a Madeira sauce (No. 492) 
separately. 








Fig. 239. 


(965), TIMBALES A LA DUMAS (Timbales & la Dumas), 

For the salpicon have some well reduced Duxelle, and mix in truffles with raw egg-yolks. 
Decorate the molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) by placing in the center of the bottom a 
round piece of tongue, and at equal distances, around this four round bits of 
truffles; make four triangles the length of the mold from slices of tongue, each one 
being an eighth of an inch wide, lay them on symmetrically, and place eight round 
bits of truffle inside of each triangle near the bottom, and eight more near the 
top, intersecting them alternately. Garnish the bottom and sides with chicken 
cream forcemeat (No. 75), lay a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center, and 
cover with more forcemeat, poach, unmold, and serve with a light ravigote sauce (No. 531). 


(966), TIMBALES FOR GOURMETS (Timbales des Gourmets), 

The salpicon for these is composed of a reduced Madeira sauce (No. 492), to which is added 
some ducks’ livers and truffles cut in one-eighth inch dice; leave till cold. Lay on 
the bottom of the molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) a three-quarters of an inch in diameter 
slice of truffle, and arrange the sides in panels, made by placing eight perpendicular 
bands of of truffles an eighth of an inch wide all around at intervals, and between 
each two arrange narrow strips to connect them, three in one, and two in the other, 
so that they alternate and form distinct oblongs, and in each one of these oblongs— 
there being two on one row, and one and two halves on the other—lay oval pieces 
of red beef tongue. Cover the bottom and sides with chicken cream forcemeat 
{No. 75), and place a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center; fill with more forcemeat, and 
finish the same as timbales (No. 959). Serve separately a gourmet sauce (No. 472). 


(967) HARLEQUIN TIMBALES (Timbales a 1]’Arlequin). 

Prepare a salpicon of artichoke bottoms cut into three-sixteenth inch squares; mix them in 
with a well buttered cold supreme sauce (No. 547). Decorate the timbale molds 
(No. 2, Fig. 137) by placing a ring cut from a truffle in the center of the bottom, 
one-eighth of an inch narrower than the bottom itself, and in the center of this 
ring lay a round piece of tongue; ornament the sides with alternate lozenges of 
truffles, red beef tongue, and some royal (No. 241) cut thin; also lozenges of 
forcemeat prepared as follows: Have two ounces of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) 
with chopped truffles added, and the same quantity of forcemeat with chopped 
pistachios; spread a layer one-sixteenth of an inch of each preparation of force- 
meat on sheets of paper; poach till firm to the touch, let cool and cut in lozenges to use for decor- 
ating the timbales. Cover the decoration with a coating of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 





\ | 


Fie. 240. 





Fig. 241. 





394 THE EPICUREAN. 


place in the center a half inch diameter ball of the prepared salpicon, cover over with more 
forcemeat, then poach and unmold the timbales as described in No. 959. Serve separately a velouté 
sauce (No. 415), reduced with a purée of onions (No. 723) and cream, and thicken it at the last 
moment with a piece of fresh butter. 


(968), IMPERIAL TIMBALES (Timbales Impérial), 

‘The salpicon to be made ofa well reduced supreme sauce (No. 547), adding toit tongue, truffles 
and mushrooms cut in small Julienne. Cut some narrow bands of truffles, a six- 
teenth of an inch wide, and six-eighths of an inch long; butter the molds (No. 2, 
Fig. 187), set a five-eighths of an inch round of truffle at the bottom and on the 
side close to the bottom a row of quarter inch in diameter rounds of truffles at the 
top opening of the mold, lay these bands in long triangles around the edge; on the 
top of each triangle set a three-sixteenth inch round piece truffle; cover the insides 
of the molds with cream forcemeat (No. 74), and in the center lay a half inch 
ball of the salpicon, finish filling the mold, poach and dress it the same as for No. 959. A 
lucullus sauce (No. 490) to be served separately. 


(969). IRVING TIMBALES (Timbales & la Irving), 

Pound some cooked game or young rabbit, free of all sinews and skin with an equal quantity of rice, 
half as much béchamel (No. 409) and a little fresh butter, rub through a fine 
sieve, and set it away to get cold. Butter some cold molds (No 2, Fig. 187) and 
decorate the bottom with a three-quarters of an inch in diameter slice of truffle, 
and the sides with triangles cut from truffles, one and five-eighths of an inch 
long, by three-eighths of an inch wide at the widest part. Set them round the 
narrow ends reaching to the bottom, the widest ends meeting together at the 
opening of the timbale. Fill the bottom and inner sides with game cream force- 
meat (No. 75) and place a ball of the prepared game purée in the center, and fill 
it up with game forcemeat; finish cooking and serve same as No. 959. Serve separately a 
champagne sauce (No. 445), with some essence of game (No. 389). 


(970), LAGARDERE TIMBALES (Timbales & la Lagardére). 

Make a salpicon of mushrooms and beef palates combined with an allemande sauce (No. 407) 
reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392), the pieces for the salpicon to be cut into three-sixteenths 
of inch squares. Have round molds an inch and a half in diameter, having at 
the bottom an indent a quarter of an inch deep by one inch in diameter, the 
molds to be one and five-eighths of an inch high, and two inches and one- 
eighth wide at the opening. Decorate the molds after buttering them when 
cold with triangles of truffles, three-quarters of an inch long by three-eighths 
of an inch wide; lay them close together around the opening of the mold, and 
on the top of each point set a round bit of tongue, three-sixteenths of an 
inch; garnish the bottom and sides with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75) and 
fill the center of the inside with a salpicon ball half an inch in diameter; fill up 
the mold with more of the forcemeat, finishing it the same as for No. 950. Set on top in 
the indent a three-quarters of an inch ball of very fine chestnut purée (No. 712) quite thick, 


bread-crumb and fry in very hot fat, and serve a supreme sauce (No. 547), with essence of 
mushrooms (No. 392) separately. 


(971), LA VALLIERE TIMBALES (Timbales & la La Valliére), 

The molds are to be dome-shaped, with an indent a quarter of an inch deep, and one inch in 
diameter; the molds themselves being an inch and three-quarters high and one 
and five-eighths wide. Decorate the sides with bands of truffle each one inch long, 
and lay them on like the letter V, meeting together both top and bottom and thus 
iorming zigzags; at each place where they join, put a small round bit of truffle; 
ill the round part of the mold with a red cream forcemeat (No. 74) and the rest 
with a quail and cream forcemeat (No. 75). Remove with a tube the stone from a 
Jarge Spanish olive, cut off a sixteenth part of its top and bottom and fill it with 
liicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and place on top a fine caper; poach and set 
one on the indents of the timbales, they having been previously poached and 


‘ished, and serve with a separate sauce-boat of well buttered velouté sauce (No. 415) with lemon 
juice added. 








Fig. 244. 





Fic. 











SIDE DISHES. — 395 


(972). LOMBARDY TIMBALES (Timbales & la Lombarde), 


Line buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with thin timbale paste (No. 150), garnish the 
- sides with buttered paper, and fill the center with rice; cover over with a small 
piece of buttered paper, moisten lightly the inside border of the timbales, and cover 
with a layer of paste; fasten the two together, pinch the border with a channeled 
pastry tong, egg over the top and place on it three small layers of thin puff 
paste, the lowest one being an inch and a half in diameter, the second, one and a 
quarter, and the last or top one, one inch, all three being cut out with a 
channeled pastry cutter. Cook the timbales in a moderate oven, remove the lids, 
empty out the rice and paper, unmold and egg over the outside, then set them 
in a quick oven; garnish the insides with pieces of chestnuts, sweetbreads and 
truffles cut into quarter inch squares, and mixed with an allemande sauce (No. 407); replace 
the covers and serve on a Lombard sauce (No. 489). | 





Fig. 247. 


(973), MARLY TIMBALES (Timbales & la Marly), 


‘Garnish the bottom of a buttered timbale mold (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a round piece of truffle, 
-and the entire sides with thin truffle crescents intercalated to resemble fish scales; 
in the center of each scale, lay a small one-eighth of an inch round bit of tongue. 
Fill them with a partridge and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the center a 
ball of salpicon made as follows: Mingle some partridge fumet (No. 397) witha 
reduced espagnole (No. 414), and add to it some foies-gras and mushrooms, both 
cut into one-eighth inch squares, and left till cold before using. Poach the 
timbales in a moderate oven, when done, dress and serve separately a sauce com- 
posed of one-third of espagnole sauce (No. 414), one-third of tomato sauce (No. 549), 
and one-third of veal blond (No. 423) reduced together. 





(974), MENTANA TIMBALES (Timbales & la Mentana), 


The salpicon to be made of chicken livers 4 la Duxelle, (see below), thickened with egg-yolks, to 
be used when cold, Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and place on the 
bottom a one inch in diameter slice of truffle, cut away the center with a three- 
quarters of an inch vegetable cutter, and replace the truffle by a piece of red 

- beef tongue. Decorate the sides of the mold with thin, eighth of an inch wide 
strips of tongue, laid on slanting, having ten strips in all, and in the center 
between every one, around bit of truffle measuring three-sixteenths of an inch 
across, with a smaller one one-eighth of an inch on the top and bottom, also 
laid on slanting, making three round bits of truffle between the two strips of Fig, 249. 
tongue. Fill the insides and bottom with a chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), 
and in the center lay a ball of the prepared salpicon; then more forcemeat, and finish them as for 
No. 959. Serve separately a périgueux (No. 517) and tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed. 

For salpicon of chicken livers a la Duxelle, cut some chicken livers in quarter inch squares; 

fry them in butter with a little shallot, mushroom, and truffles, all chopped finely, and mingle 
with a little well reduced half-glaze (No. 400). 





(975), MONTGOMERY TIMBALES (Timbales & la Montgomery). 


Prepare a pheasant salpicon with truffles and mushrooms added, mixing them in with a velouté 
sauce (No. 415), add a little meat glaze (No. 402), and leave till cold. Butter a 
round timbale mold, having a round identation at the bottom; decorate the 
whole length of the flat side with strips of tongue, and place a dot of truffle an 
eighth of an inch in diameter on the top of each strip, having eight in all; dredge 
over the sides with finely chopped pistachios, and cover the bottom and_ sides 
with a delicate pheasant game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and set in the center 
a ball of the salpicon; fill the mold with some more of the same forcemeat, poach 
and dress (No. 959), place on top a small round croquette three-quarters of an 
inch in diameter made of the salpicon. Serve separately a velouté sauce (No. 415), 


finished with essence of game (No. 389). 














NEMA 
4 Fig. 250. 


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152391 Boa 
Wag i %; 

Sa) ‘/ 


396 THE EPICUREAN 


(976), MOSAIC TIMBALES (Timbales Mosaique). 
The timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) are to be entirely decorated with small lozenges of tongue, 
truffle and hard boiled egg-whites, to represent a mosaic ground work. Begin by 
placing a ring of truffle at the bottom of the mold, inside of this a smaller ring of 
egg-whites, and in the center to fit in a half inch round of beef tongue; this fills 
the entire bottom. Decorate the sides with alternate lozenges to form squares or 
boxes, having all the red on one side, the black on the other, and the white on top 
of each square; the upper and lower row should be divided in two lengthwise; by 
following these directions they will form perfect mosaic squares, taking care that 
the points are directed outward; support this decoration with a snipe quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 91); set in the center a ball made of royal cream (No. 241), and 
finish filling the molds; poach and serve them as for No. 959. Serve a white Colbert sauce (No. 451) 
separately. 





(977), NEAPOLITAN TIMBALES (Timbales Napolitaine). 

The salpicon is composed of tongue, truffles and mushrooms, cut in three-sixteenth of an inch 
squares and combined with espagnole sauce (No. 414), meat glaze (No. 402) and 
tomato sauce (No. 549); let cool, cut some macaroni into pieces a sixteenth of an 
































inch long, fill the empty places in each macaroni half of them with a round ieee 
piece of truffle to fit it exactly, and the other half with beef tongue instead of Josgio0 
truffles. Butter the timbale molds (No: 2, Fig. 187), lay a round piece of truffle ereveys\(e)e 
on the bottom, and around it set the bits of macaroni, one row filled with tongue, WIE 
and over this, one filled with truffles; one laid symmetrically above the other until ““xdedhexowes 





the mold is filled. Garnish the bottom and sides with chicken quenelle forcemeat Fic. 252. 
(No. 89), and a halfinch ball of the salpicon in the center, fill up with more forcemeat 
and finish them exactly the same as for No. 959. Serve a separate sauce-boat of Neapolitan sauce 
(No. 507). 

(978), PALERMITAINE TIMBALES (Timbales & la Palermitaine), 

The salpicon to be composed of red beef tongue, mushrooms and foies-gras, mingled with a 
tomatoed half-glaze sauce (No. 418). Butter the interior of the timbale molds 
(No. 2, Fig. 137) with some well kneaded, softened butter that has not been melted, 
and set on the flat bottoms a thin round piece of truffle measuring three-quarters 
of an inch across. Cook till slightly firm some small spaghetti macaroni; drain it 
well, dry, and turn it in a spiral around the entire inside of the mold beginning 
= at the bottom and continuing until the mold is completely full; it is better to use 
ea tees a single piece of macaroni for this. Support the macaroni with a layer 

of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and set a half inch ball of the salpicon in 


the center; cover with more forcemeat and finish the Same as for the timbales (No. 959). Serve 
separately a Palermitaine sauce (No. 514). 


(979), PERIGORDINE TIMBALES (Timbales Périgordine), 


Prepare a very consistent chestnut purée (No. 712), adding to it a little meat 
glaze (No. 402), some fresh butter and raw egg-yolks; let this get thoroughly cold. 
Garnish the bottom of the timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) with a thin slice of 
truffle, cut out the center with a half inch vegetable cutter, and replace the piece 
with a round cut of tongue exactly the same size; fill up the bottom and sides with 
achicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the center a half inch ball of the Fic, 254, 
chestnut purée; cover over with more forcemeat and finish the same as for timbales 


{No. 959). Haveaseparate sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), finished with essence of truffles 
«No. 395). 








(980). PRINCESS TIMBALES (Timbales & la Princesse), 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and roll close together around the 
inside strings of short paste (No. 135), an eighth of an inch in diameter, keeping 
them as long as possible; begin at the bottom in the center and continue in spirals 
till the top is reached, then coat the bottom and sides with a chicken quenelle force- 
meat (No. 89), laying a ball of white montglas salpicon (No. 747) in the center. 
Cover the top with a thin lid of the paste and cook in a slow oven for about half 
AF, es an hour; remove the lid, and fill the timbales with a Madeira wine sauce (No. 
492); substitute for the cover a half spherical quenelle decorated with truffles 


cut fancifully; dredged with chopped pistachios, made of chicken cream forcemeat and poached 
in a slack oven. Serve ona napkin. 








SIDE DISHES. Ce 39% 


(981), TIMBALES A LA RENAISSANCE (Timbales & la Renaissance), 

Have ready a salpicon of truffles, chicken and artichoke bottoms, ail cut into three-sixteenth, 
inch squares; mix them with an espagnole sauce (No. 414), well reduced with 
meat glaze (No. 402) and tomatosauce (No. 549). Butter the insides of timbale molds: 
(No. 2, Fig. 187), lay on the bottom a round piece of red beet-root cut very thin, an 
inch and a quarter in diameter; cut from the center a round piece a quarter of an. 
inch across, and replace it by a very green cooked pea. Garnish the mold with a 
layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), both on the bottom and sides, and set 

J in the center a ball of the prepared salpicon, then finish exactly the same as for- 
Fic. 256. No. 959. Serve a Chateaubriand sauce (No. 446) separately. 


(982), RISTORI TIMBALES (Timbales & la Ristovi), 

Prepare a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms and artichoke bottoms cut into three-sixteenth inch, 
squares, and mingled with an allemande sauce (No. 407), then put away to get 7 
cold. Butter the inside of timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), decorate the bottoms 
with a thin round of truffle, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and on the top 
and bottom of the sides lay inverted triangles of tongue, or the red part of lobster, 
haying twenty-four in all, twelve on the top, and twelve on the bottom; and in 
the center of the side range symmetrically twelve small rounds of truffle 
to form a circle. Fill the bottom and sides with a chicken and cream forcemeat 
(No. 75), well mixed, and in the middle set a half inch ball of the salpicon; finish 
with more forcemeat, then poach and unmold as explained in No. 959. A velouté sauce (No. 415)- 
with finely chopped truffle sauce (No: 551), to be served separately. 


(983). ROTHSCHILD TIMEALES (Timbales & la Rothschild), 


Decorate the bottom of each buttered timbale mold (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a thin round slice 
of truffie measuring three-quarters of an inch in diameter; around the sides range 
six lozenge shaped pieces of the true, each one divided by a round bit of truffle an 
eighth of an inch across, and more of the same sized and shaped pieces at both tips 
of the lozenges, making eighteen small rounds in all. Fill the bottom and sides. 
with a chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), and lay in the center a ball, half an inch 
in diameter, composed of foies-gras taken from a terrine and rubbed through a. 
sieve; fil the mold with more forcemeat then poach and finish the same as for 
No. 959. Serve separately a purée of chestnuts (No. 712), diluted with velouté- 
sauce (No. 415) and cream to the consistency of a. sauce, incorporating into it at the last moment, 
a piece of melted fresh butter. 
(984), SARTIGES TIMBALES (Timbales 4 la Sartiges), 

Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187), decorate the center of the bottom with a rosette. 
design made of truffles, and around the top and bottom of the sides of the mold, lay a 
detached row of round picces of truffle, having those at the bottom somewhat smaller 
than those at the top. In the center on each side make a truffle cross-shaped like an 
X, one inch high, and in the middle of it, lay a small eighth of an inch round of 
tongue, and on each side rings of tongue, three-eighths of an inch in diameter. 
Fill the bottoms and sides with a grouse cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the 
center of this a salpicon composed of squares of truffle cut in three-sixteenths of an Fic. 259. 
inch, and mingled with a well reduced half-glaze sauce (No. 413); fill up with 
more of the forcemeat, and finish the same as the timbales (No. 959). Serve separately an, 
espagnole sauce (No. 414) with game essence (No. 389). 


(985). SCOTCH TIMBALES (Timbales & lEoossaise), 

Prepare some very thin pancakes the same as for rissolettes (No. 956). Butter timbale molds. 
(No. 2, Fig. 137) and line the inner sides with these pancakes; prepare a salpicon. 
with four ounces of white chicken meat, the same quantity of mushrooms, and two 
ounces of rice; combine these ingredients with a buttered béchamel (No. 409). 
and let get cold. Fill the molds half full with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 
and cream forcemeat (No. 75), the same quantity of each well mixed together; in 
BPH the center lay a half inch ball of the salpicon, and finish filling the mold with more- 
Fic. 260. forcemeat, poach and finish the same as for No. 959. After they are unmolded, lay 

them in the oven for one minute, then serveseparately a Spanish sauce (No. 414), 


reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392). 











Fie. 258, 








398 THE EPICUREAN. 


(986), SOUBISE TIMBALES (Timbales & la Soubise), 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187), and lay on the bottom a round piece of truffle, 
three-quarters of an inch in diameter; on the sides place truffle bands an eighth of 
an inch wide, by half an inch long, having twenty-five of these pieces for each 
mold; lay them on in five lines, one above the other, the bottom corner of one 
joining the opposite top corner of the next one; between these lines place rounds 
of truffles. Fill with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), mixing in with it a 
third of its quantity of soubise purée (No. 723), cook and finish the same as for 
the timbales (No. 959). Serve separately a. velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced and 
finished by adding to it a piece of fresh butter. 





(987), SOYER TIMBALES (Timbales a la Soyer). 


Prepare a timbale of foundation paste the same as for Lombardy (No. 972). 
Fill it with a garnishing of game and cream quenelles (No. 733), small mushroom 
heads, truffles cut into five-sixteenths of an inch pieces, and sweetbreads cut the 
same; mix with it a lucullus sauce (No. 490); after the timbales are filled, replace 
the covers, dress them on a folded napkin and serve hot. 


(988), TALLEYRAND TIMBALES (Timbales a la Talleyrand), 


Make a salpicon of foies-gras and mushrooms, mixed with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), 
and finished with raw egg-yolks. Butter some timbale molds (No.-2, Fig. 137), 
and throw indiscriminately into the insides small sticks of tongue, truffles and 
chicken five-sixteenths of an inch wide by one-sixteenth of an inch square; 
letting them assume any fancy shape into which they may fall. Cover the bottom 
and sides with a cream forcemeat (No. 75), and lay in the center a salpicon ball half 
an inch in diameter; cover with more of the forcemeat and finish cooking and 

‘serving the same as for No. 959. Have a buttered allemande sauce (No. 407), 

adding to it a dash of cayenne pepper, and the juice of a lemon. 








(989), VENETIAN TIMBALES (Timbales ala Vénitienne), 


Make a salpicon of ducks’ livers cut up into one-eighth of an inch pieces, cut the same of some 
truffles, mushrooms, and red beef tongue, and mix all with a well reduced allemande — 
sauce (No. 407). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), lay at the 
bottom a round slice of truffle, and from the center of it cut out with a vegetable 
cutter, a piece half an inch in diameter, and place in its stead a round piece of 
tongue; dust over the sides with very finely chopped pistachios shaken through a 
sieve, and fill up the molds with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), laying a 
ball of the salpicon in the middle; finish as in No. 959. Serve separately a 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with mushroom liquor and some chopped parsley added. 


(990). TIMBALES WITH RED BEEF TONGUE (Timbales & l’Ecarlate). 


Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187) and throw in some very finely 
chopped unsmoked beef tongue to make it adhere well to the bottom and sides, 
then fill with a chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach and unmold the same as 
for No. 959. Send to the table with a separate sauce-boat of sauce prepared as 
a follows: Cut some chicken livers’ into three-sixteenth inch squares; sauté them 

eee in butter, moisten with white wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), and strain’ 


| through a tammy; add to the sauce a garnishing of truffles cut in three-sixteenth 
inch squares. These timbales contain no salpicon. 








(991), FLORENTINE TOASTS (Réties Florentine), . 


___ oll out a layer of fancy roll paste (No. 3418) form raised edges around it, having it three 
inches wide, by twelve inches long; besprinkle with oil, and garnish with anchovy or sardine fillets; 
Season with chives, garlic, and chopped onions, and lay on top slices of peeled and pressed tomatoes, 
also thin slices of American cheese. Cook them in a hot oven, and when done strew over chopped 
jarsley and savory, cut them into pieces an inch and a half wide, having eight of them in all, or if 
; ere ea may be made of slices of toasted bread three inches long, by one and a half wide, 
instead Of paste. . 








SIDE DISHES. 399 


(992), TOAST WITH OIL AND CHEESE, SARDINES A LA SEVILLE (Rotie & l'Huile et av 
Fromage, aux Sardines et & la Séville), 


Toast some slices of bread three inches by one and a half; dip them in fine olive oil, and 
lay them on a dish; strew over some grated parmesan, pepper and lemon juice, set them for a 
few seconds into the oven, giving them just sufficient time to melt the cheese, and serve the 
instant they leave the oven. 


For Sardine Toast.—Instead of the cheese, pound a few anchovies with an equal quantity of 
fresh butter and a pinch of parsley; with this butter cover some slices of toasted bread. Wipe off 
gently with a cloth the skins from a few sardines, lay them on ep of the toast, then set them in 
the oven for a few minutes, and serve very hot. 


Toast a la Seville.—Chop up separately some anchovies, parsley, chives, shallots and garlic, 
then mix them together in a bowi with oil, spread this mixture on toasted slices of bread 
three-eighths of an inch thick by three inches square; divide these slices through the center; lay 
some anchovy fillets on top. Dress the toast on a dish, pour over a little oil, and sprinkle with 
mignonette; push them into the oven for two minutes, then squeeze over the juice of an orange, 
and serve. ; 


(993), VARENIKIS—POLISH SIDE DISH (Varenikis—Hors-d'Euvre Polonais), 


The day before the varenikis are needed for use put some pot cheese in a cloth, wrap it up and 
tie with a string; lay it on a colander, place a weight on top and leave it without further press- 
ure until the next day so that all the buttermilk drains off. Take it out of the cloth, put it 
in a mortar, seasoning with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg, then pound well to have it a very 
smooth paste. Now add gradually two ounces of fresh butter then a heaping tablespoonful of 
marrow frangipane and as much cream cake paste (No. 132) and lastly four egg-yolks; continue 
to pound and mix until the paste isexceedingly smooth, then rub it through a sieve; lay it in a 
vessel and let rest in the ice-box. Prepare a raviole paste (No. 147) and after half an hour roll it 
very thin and from this cut out some strips; cover each band with a small part of the prep- 
aration the size and shape of a nut and form them into small rissoles the same as for ordinary 
rissoles (No. 161); lay each one as soon as prepared on a slightly floured tin and stand them in 
a cool place. Ten minutes before serving throw them into a saucepanful of lightly salted boiling 
water. As soon as poached drain them on a cloth and then arrange them in a silver dish; 
pour a few spoonsfuls of sweet cream over, serving more separately. In Russia they substitute 
melted butter for cream and serve sour cream apart. 








MOLLUSKS and CRUSTACEANS. 





THE QUAHAUG OR LITTLE NECK CLAMS (Lucines Orangées ou Clovis), 


There are many kinds of these bivalves, but these of which we speak are greatly appreciated as 
an article of food. Small ones an inch to an inch and three-quarters in diameter 
are served raw, in the months of May, June, July and August, entirely replacing 
the oyster. Little neck clams are the most remarkable of their kind, their principal 
characteristic being the uniting to the hinge of cardinal and lateral teeth; beside 
these they possess three other teeth, two being diverging. They are far 
preferable to the large clams for all culinary preparations, being more tender, of Fie, 266, 
a finer flavor and their taste less strong than the others. 





(994), CLAMS, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Lucines Orangées & la Philadelphie), 


Procure two dozen medium sized clams; poach them in their own juice with as much water, 
and as soon as they are firm to the touch, drain them off. Fry two finely cut-up shallots in butter 
without letting them attain color, add the clams, and heat them with a little sherry and brandy, 
seasoning with mignonette and a very little salt; just when prepared to serve thicken the gravy 
with cream, egg-yolks and a small quantity of butter. Serve the clams in a vegetable or deep dish, 
and lay on top and around some small round three-quarters of an inch rice croquettes. 


(995), CLAMS A LA POULETTE (Lucines Orangées 4 la Poulette), 


Poach twenty-four clams, suppressing the hard parts, put them into a sautoir with a pint of 
poulette sauce (No. 527) and heat them thoroughly; season with pepper, mignonette, nutmeg and 
lemon juice, and thicken the whole with egg-yolks and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley. 


(996). CLAM PANCAKES AND FRITTERS (Crépes et Beignets de Lucines Orangées). 


Break two whole eggs into a bowl, and add a pinch of white pepper; beat them thoroughly with 
a tablespoonful of flour anda tablespoonful of cream; stir briskly, and put into the mixture ten 
medium sized raw clams chopped up very fine, and with this preparation make some rather thick 
pancakes. 

Fritters.—Place in a saucepan one gill of milk, half an ounce of butter, some cayenne 
pepper and nutmeg; boil the whole and add three ounces of flour; dry the paste, then remove it 
from the fire, incorporating slowly into it two whole eggs, and finish with four spoonfuls of double 
cream; now add to the paste six ounces of small sized clams, drained and chopped; mix well 
and then take up some of the preparation with a spoon held in the right hand and using the first 
finger of the left hand, detach it from the spoon, and let it fall into hot frying fat; when done, 
drain and range the fritters on napkins. | 


(997), STUFFED CLAMS (Lucines Orangées Farcies). 


Fry colorless two ounces of finely chopped onions in two ounces of butter, dredge over two 
spoonfuls of flour, stir well, then add the liquor from ten raw clams, two ounces of chopped mush- 
rooms, and one gill of white wine; boil up the whole, skim off the foam arising to the top, and 
reduce to half, seasoning with red pepper and nutmeg. Chop up the raw clams, and set them into 
the prepared sauce; place it on a brisk fire and stir steadily, and when the clams are poached, 
add some chopped parsley, and thicken with egg-yolks and cream. Lay this preparation aside for 
further use, but if it is to be used at once, fill upsome well rounded buttered clam shells, dust over 
with bread-crumbs and lay a small pat of butter on top of each; place them on a baking pan in the 
oven to heat and color nicely, then arrange them crown-shaped on a folded napkin, garnishing the 


center with very green parsley branches. nen 


402 THE EPICUREAN. 


LONG OR SOFT CLAMS (Lucines), 


Long or soft clams resemble somewhat the Venus clam, however, they have no exterior tuve. 
These mollusks live in both sand and mud. . 


(998), SOFT OLAMS FRIED, GARNISHED WITH FRIED PARSLEY (Lucines Papillons Frites 
Garnies au Persil Frit), 


Drain some medium sized soft clams; immerse them in milk, drain them once more, then roll 
them in flour and fry. After being rolled in the flour, they may be dipped in beaten eggs, then in 
bread-crumbs and fried until a fine color is assumed; dress them on a napkin, garnishing with fried 
parsley. 


(999), SOFT OLAMS ON SKEWERS OR HATELETS (Lucines Papillons 
en Brochette ou Hatelets), 


Run some silver skewers through the soft clams, alternating each 
piece with a three-quarters of an inch square of lean, unsmoked 
bacon; dip the whole into melted butter, and roll them in bread- 
crumbs, broil them over a slow fire, and when done dress on a hot 
dish and cover with maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581). They may be prepared exactly the same 
only omitting the bread-crumbs. . 





Fic. 267. 


(1000) SOFT CLAMS A LA NEWBERG (Lucines Papillons & la Newberg). 


Warm in a sautoire twe ounces of butter, add to it one dozen very fresh soft clams, a little salt, 
black and cayenne pepper, boil for a few minutes, moving them with care so as to avoid breaking 
them, moisten with a gill of Madeira and a little velouté sauce (No. 415), add two egg-yolks and a 
little cream, also a little butter. Warm without boiling, and serve. 


CRABS (Crabes), 


A species of amphibious crustacean, oblong and wide or broad according to its kind; there is 
the sea, the fresh water, and the land crab. Generally 
the tail is bent under the belly, and the head not 
separated from the body. The body is covered with a 
hard shell frequently blackish in color; the meat is 
difficult to digest. The ordinary crabs that are used in 
New York, either hard or soft shelled are sea crabs. 








(1001) HARD SHELL CRABS BAKED ON A DISH 
. (Orabes Durs au Gratin dans un Plat), 


Fig. 268. 


After some large crabs have been cooked in a court bouillon, as for No. 1002, pick out all their 
meat, keeping it as whole as possible; put it into a sautoir with some allemande sauce (No. 407), 
and sliced mushrooms, also chopped parsley; mix well. Butter a silver dish, besprinkle it with 
bread-crumbs, and fill with the crab preparation, dredge bread-crumbs fried in butter on top, and 
lay the dish in the oven; when nicely browned, serve on a folded napkin. 


(1002), HARD SHELL CRABS, IN COURT BOUILLON (Crabes Durs au Court Bouillon), 


Soak the crabs for a quarter of an hour in cold water containing a handful of salt; wash them 
nicely. Fry in butter some minced carrots, onions, and celery, with pepper-corns, thyme, bay 
leaf, and branches of parsley. Moisten with white wine and broth, throw in the crabs, and let boil 
ror fifteen minutes, then dress them on a napkin and range branches of parsley around; pour the 
top of the stock from its sediment, reduce it with velouté sauce (No. 415), when ready to serve. : 
work in some fine butter, and serve it separately. 








MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. " aetO3 


(1003). HARD SHELL CRABS, STUFFED, CAROLINA STYLE (Crabes Durs Farcis & la Caroline), 


Fry colorless in butter some finely choppped onions; sprinkle over a little rice flour, fry again 
for a few minutes and moisten with milk; season with salt, red pepper, nutmeg, thyme, and 
powdered basil; add the crab meat, and half of its quantity of rice previously boiled in plenty of 
water, ‘* Creole rice” (No. 1251); fill some clean crab shells with this preparation, until they are 
quite full and dome-shaped; dredge over with bread-crumbs, besprinkle with butter and brown in 
a hot oven, or the preparation may be dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs and’ fried in 

hot fat: 


(1004), HARD SHELL CRABS, STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED (Crabes Durs Farcis 
aux Qhampignons et a la Diable), 7 


To obtain one pound of crab meat it is necessary to have twenty crabs; soak them for a quar- 
ter of an hour in water with a handful of salt added, wash them and boil for fifteen minutes; let get 
cold and remove the shells which are to be well washed and dried. Take off all the small legs 
and the lungs; wash the crabs singly, and pick out all the meat obtainable; chop up either two 
onions or one ounce of shallot for every pound of crab meat; fry them colorless in butter; add a 
quart of béchamel (No. 409) reduced with cream, the crab meat, salt, red pepper and nutmeg; do 
not haye the preparation too soft, and with it fill the shells dome-shaped, about four ounces in each; 
dip them entirely into bread-crumbs, sprinkle over melted butter, and lay them on tin rings to 
avoid the crabs touching the bottom of the pan; brown in a hot oven, and dress on napkins with 
parsley around. 

With Mushrooms.—Prepare the crabs as the above. Fry a little shallot in butter, mix in as 
much flour as the butter can absorb and cook to obtain a light roux; moisten this with half cream 
and half milk, seasoning properly, then add the crab meat and half the same quantity of mush- 
rooms cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares; boil up once; set it in a vessel and use 
this preparation for stuffing the crabs; finish and serve the same sauce as with the other crabs. 
This cream sauce can be replaced by reduced velouté (No. 415) and thickened whith egg-yolks and 
eream. 

Deviled and Stuffed.—The crabs are to be’prepared as above. Before sprinkling with 
crumbs, cover the top of the crab preparation with mustard; cover with bread-crumbs, and 
sprinkle butter on top; brown in a hot oven, and dress on napkins, garnishing with green parsley. 


(1005), OYSTER ORABS FRIED A LA NEWBERG OR A LA SALAMANDER (Crabes d’Huitres 
_ Frits & la Newber” et & la Salamandre), 

Oyster crabs are generally found in great quantities the Virginia oysters. 

Fried.—Drain and dip the crabs in milk, roll them in cracker-dust, and toss them in a coarse 
sieve to remove the surplus cracker, then fry them in very hot, fresh lard. Butter some channeled 
oval tartlet molds three and seven-eighths inches by two and three-eighths inches wide, line them 
with a very thin puff paste made from parings, and fill up the insides with fine sheets of buttered 
paper and rice; cook them ina hot oven, empty them well of the paper and rice, and finish by 
filling them with as many of the fried crabs as they will hold, dress them on folded napkins and 
serve them while still very hot. The scarcity of these crabs bring their price as high as two 
dollars and a half a pound. 

Oyster Crabs & la Newberg.—Put some oyster crabs in a sautoire with a little butter, salt, and 
ved pepper; toss them well and moisten with a little cream; remove from the fire at the first 
boil, thicken with raw egg-yolks diluted in cream, pour over a little good Madeira wine and 
we©rve. 

A la Salamander.—Wash some medium sized prettily shaped deep oyster shells; set them on 
@ very straight baking sheet. Drain very fresh oyster crabs, season them with salt, black and red 
pepper, and fill the shells full of these; strew over bread-crumbs, and grated parmesan cheese, 
hesprinkle with butter, and brown in a quick oven, serve the shells as soon as they are done. (These 
¢rabs should be put in the shells without any sauce. ) 


1006), SOFT SHELL CRABS, BROILED, RAVIGOTE BUTTER, FRIED, SAUTED IN BUTTER 
(Crabes Moux Grillés, Beurre Ravigote, Frits, Sautés au Beurre), 


Wash the crabs, being careful to pick off all the seaweed, and pull out the lungs; wipe dry. 
Lay them on a double broiler, salt over and baste with butter, broil them on a slow fire, and when 
-aone, dress on a hot dish and cover with ravigote butter (No. 583). 


A04 THE EPICUREAN. 


Fried.—Wash the crabs, remove the lungs from both sides and dip into milk, then roll in flour 
and fry in plenty-of very hot frying fat. When of a fine color, drain and dress on a folded nap- 
kin, and on top arrange a bunch of fried parsley. - 

Sautéd in Butter.—After the crabs have been well washed, remove the lungs from each side, 
roll them in flour, and sauté them in very hot purified butter (No. 16); when done and of a fine: 
color, dress and to the butter in which they were cooked, add some lemon juice; strain this butter 
through a strainer over the crabs, and strew chopped parsley on them. 





CRAWFISH OR CRAYFISH (Ecrevisses), 


This crustacean has the head and the corselet blended in one single piece, having attached five: 
pairs of feet; the tail is more or less apparent. Crawfish are aquatic 
and turn red when cooked. Persons suffering from a, weak stomach 
should avoid partaking of them, as they are very indigestible, but they 
are delicious for those who are able to indulge in them. They are useful 
for decorating cold dishes and entrées, and are used by themselves in the 
form of pyramids. 


(1007), G(RAWFISH A LA BATELIERE (Ecrevisses & la Batelidze), 


Procure three dozen live crawfish, wash them thoroughly, place them 
in a net, and plunge them for two minutes into plenty of boiling water in 
order to kill them, then remove and break off the small legs. Fry three 
very finely chopped shallots in butter with six ounces of minced mush- 
rooms, thyme and bay leaf, add the crawfish and moisten with white wine; 
let cook for ten minutes, suppress the thyme and bay leaf, season with salt 
and red pepper, and just when prepared to serve add half an ounce of fresh butter and some: 
chopped parsley. . 





Fie. 269. 


(1008), CRAWEISH A LA BORDELAISE (Ecrevisses & la Bordelaise), 


Choose live crawfish; set them inside a net, wash them well, and plunge them rapidly into: 
boiling water, leaving them in only sufficiently long to kill, then drain and pick off the small legs. 
Fry a mirepoix of roots and minced onions in oil, moisten with white wine, season, and add 
aromatic herbs, a bunch of parsley and a few spoonfuls of brandy; let the whole boil for several 
minutes, then throw in the crawfish and cook them from ten to fourteen minutes according to their 
size, while tossing steadily. Take them off the fire, strain the broth through a sieve, leaving 
the crawfish in the saucepan. Cut in small three-sixteenth of an inch squares or in Julienne, some 
red part of carrots, and tender celery roots, parboil both in salted water, and then drain, fry with- 
out coloring in some butter, onions, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, add to it the roots, 
and fry together for a few minutes, then moisten with two or three spoonfuls of broth and the: 
crawfish stock; let the liquid fall twice to a glaze so that the vegetables are well cooked, and moisten 
again with the stock of the crawfish reduced to a half-giaze. Cook together for five or six 


minutes, then thicken with small pieces of butter kneaded with flour, adding also two or three 


spoonfuls of Madeira wine and a dash of cayenne pepper; remove the sauce to the side of the fire 


Bal “lar ac n 1 j i i 1 
in order to add butter to it. Dress the crawfish on a deep dish with a little of their own broth, and 
serve the sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1009), ORAWFISH AU COURT BOUILLON AND MARINIERE (Ecrevisses au Court Bouulon et. : 


& la Mariniére), 


To prepare the court bouillon, mince up two ounces of onions, two ounces of celery root and 
two ounces of carrots, and put them into a saucepan with a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, 
also one pint of water, some salt and a pint of white wine; let boil for ten minutes. Put three 
dozen live crawfish into a net, plunge this into boiling water and leave it until the shells turn red, 
then take it out, and break off the small legs, and finish cooking the fish in the court bouillon for 


ea y | 
as 

_ a rw 

: wy Ld 
Al 


a 


, 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 405 


about ten minutes, tossing them well in the meanwhile; remove them with a skimmer and dress 
them. Strain the broth or court bouillon, reduce it to half, add a piece of fresh butter and pour 
it over the crawfish. 


Mariniére.—After the three dozen crawfish have been cooked in the court bouillon, dress them 
in a silver tureen; strain the court bouillon, reduce it to half with a little brandy and thicken it 
with kneaded butter and bread-crumbs, season with salt and a dash of cayenne, and incorporate 
into it a little piece of fresh butter; pour this over the crawfish, toss them well, and strew over 
‘some chopped parsley. 


(1010), CRAWFISH, MAISON D'OR (Ecrevisses Maison Or), 


After three dozen crawfish have been cooked in the court-bouillon (No. 1009), dress them in a 
silver tureen. Fry in butter some pieces of raw lean ham cut in one-eighth inch squares, moisten 
with the court bouillon and the same quantity of champagne, adding fish-glaze (No. 399); reduce 
and incorporate in a little fresh butter; pour this over the crawfish, and strew over a little 
chopped parsley. 


(1011), ORAWFISH WITH BUTTER (Ecrevisses au Beurre), 


Select four or five dozen large, live, and well cleaned crawfish; put them inside a net and 
plunge this into a large vessel containing boiling water, in order to kill the crawfish at once. 
Drain them well, then break off all their small legs; melt some butter, having a sufficiency of it, 
according to the quantity of crawfish; pour off the top of it only into a saucepan, and cook it vn- 
til it becomes nut brown, then add to it the crawfish, a bunch of parsley, aromatic herbs, some 
cut up onions and pepper corns; let cook while tossing for ten minutes, drain and put them back 
in the saucepan besprinkle with a handful of white and fresh bread-crumbs; pour over two or 
three gills of mirepoix stock (No. 419); remove the saucepan to a slower fire to let the crawfish 
cook for a few moments longer, but without ceasing to toss. Take them from the fire, trim them 
and add to the sauce some sherry and small bits of butter for the purpose of thickening it. 
Dress the crawfish on a deep dish, and pour the sauce over. 


(1012). CRAWFISH WITH CREAM (Eorevisses & la Créme). 


After having prepared and washed three dozen crawfish as No. 1007, place them in a sauce- 
pan with a good sized piece of very fresh butter, a bunch of chives and parsley garnished with 
thyme, bay leaf and basil, a minced onion, two cloves, mushroom parings, a little salt and pepper; 
moisten with a small ladleful of vegetable stock (No. 195), and set the covered saucepan on a very 
hot fire for ten minutes, tossing the contents frequently; after this is done, take them from the 
fire and drain in a colander. Break off all the small legs and the shell from the tails, then lay 
the crawfish in a saucepan with their own strained stock, to keep hot without boiling. Just when 
ready to serve, drain, and set them into a silver tureen, one on top of the other, the tails inward, 
and the heads reclining against the sides of the tureen, and cover over with a lean unctuous 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with the broth in which the crawfish were cooked. 


EDIBLE SNAILS (Escargots), 


A shelled snail. The snails intended for eating are those that feed on aromatic plants. They 
are nourishing, but difficult to digest, are unsuitable for weak stomachs, and always require 
to be well seasoned. Broths are made from snails and are found to be 
very soothing for any irritability of the stomach. 


(1013), EDIBLE SNAILS, TO PREPARE (Escargots, Préparation). 


Should the snails be taken from grape vines, either in the spring — ; 
time or autumn, they must be put into a cage, and starved for eight days. Fia. 270. 
If they be purchased in the winter in the markets, they are then closed 
and ready to cook; in the latter case, wash them well in tepid water to break the openings 
and remove the glue, then put them into a vessel with fresh water and salt, and let them 





406 .. THE EPICUREAN. 


disgorge for twelve hours (the vessel to be covered with a grater to prevent the snails escaping); 
afterward wash them again in several waters. Put the snails into a stock pot with water and a 
pinch of potash; cook until the meats can be removed from the shells—half an hour will suffice 
for this, then drain and pick them out of the shells. Wash the meats in several waters, suppressing 
the green vein found in the thinnest part of the snail, then range them in a small earthen pot lined 
with fat pork; add an onion, a bunch of aromatic herbs, a clove of garlic, a few spoonfuls of brandy, 
and moisten to their heighth with broth and white wine; close the pot, fasten the cover down with 
paste, and let cook over a slow fire or gas stove for six hours. When the snails are well done 
remove, and let them cool off in their own broth. Wash well the shells and let them dry before 


using. 


(1014), EDIBLE SNAILS, BORDELAISE AND SAINTONGE ‘Escargots & la Bordelaise et & la Sain- 
tonge). 


Bordelaise.—Cook the snails as explained in No. 1013; fry in butter some onions, carrots and 
celery root; cut in three-eights of an inch squares, sprinkle over some flour, and moisten with 
white wine and fish stock (No. 195), add the cooked snails without the shells, and when hot, 
thicken with kneaded butter and finish with fine herbs and lemon juice. eee Wht} 


Ala Saintonge.—(Small snails.) After they are cooked as above, put them back into their 
shells, and fry them in butter, shells and all, adding a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, salt 
and pepper; moisten with white wine, thicken with an allemande sauce (No. 407), bread-crumbs, 
butter and parsley. 


(1015). EDIBLE SNAILS A LA BOURGUIGNONNE (Escargots 4 la Bourguignonne). 


After the snails have been prepared according to No. 1013 put a little clear gravy (No. 404) 
into each shell, then one or two snails from which suppress the thin and pointed end; close the 
opening with a thick layer of fresh butter, mixing in with it salt, black pepper, parsley and chives 
both chopped, lemon juice and a little fresh bread-crumbs. Arrange the shells on a metal dish 
provided with a grater for the purpose of upholding the snails, let cook for a few moments and 
serve them very hot accompanied with a silver skewer to remove the snail from its shell. Metal 
or earthen dishes are expressly made having the bottom indented to receive the snails. 


(1016), EDIBLE SNAILS, PROVENCAL, AND WITH PROVENGAL BUTTER (Escargots & la 


Provengale et au Beurre de Provence), 


Prepare and cook the snails as for No. 1013, fry in oil without browning, some shallots, 
mushrooms, garlic, and parsley, all to be finely chopped and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg, adda little flour, stir well and moisten with white wine and fish stock (No. 195), reduce 
thoroughly to the consistency of a sauce. Fill the shells by putting into each one, one or twosnails — 
according to their size, finish filling with the sauce, and cover with bread-crumbs, besprinkle with 
butter, and heat them in a hot oven. 


With Provengal Butter.—Cook and prepare the snails as for No. 1013, set at the bottom of 
each shell a little of the following butter: Stir into some butter finely chopped parsley, onions, and — 
crushed garlic, and finely cut up thyme and bay leaf, season with salt, black and red pepper, pound 
and press through a sieve. Set the snails on this butter and finish filling the shells with the 
same and some fresh bread-crumbs, range them on a dish, and place them in the hot oven; serve 
when the butter boils in the shell. Accompany these snails with a small silver pick to remove 
the insides. 





MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 407 


FROGS (Grenouilles), 


A small quadruped of the Rana family, having a smooth skin, flat head, large mouth, and 
bulging eyes; it lives in the water. The under part of the stomach is white, dotted with brown. 
Frogs’ meat contains a gelatinous principle, more fluid and less nour- 
ishing than any other animal; it is considered quite a delicacy, and is 
healthy and agreeable to the taste. Refreshing broths are made with 
frogs’ legs, analogous to those composed of chicken or veal. 





(1017), FROGS’ LEGS A LA D'ANTIN (Cuisses de Grenouilles & la 
d’Antin), . 
Have a pound of very fresh frogs’ legs, season them with salt, Fie. 729. 
pepper and nutmeg, then fry them in butter with a teaspoonful of 
finely chopped onions; add some chives, minced mushrooms, capers, and chopped truffies; moisten 
with half a pint of white wine, reduce till dry, then pour in a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
dress‘and dredge over chopped parsley, chervil, and a few tarragon leaves. 


(1018), FROGS’ LEGS A LA OSBORN (Ouisses de Grenouilles & la Osborn), 

' Cut a pound of ‘thighs in two to divide them, then each leg in two at the joint; season with 
salt and pepper and fry them in some butter with a teaspoonful of chopped up onions, a finely 
shred green pepper, two peeled tomatoes cut into eight pieces, four ounces of finely minced mush- 
rooms and one gill of espagnole sauce (No. 414), cover and set the pan in the oven for fifteen 
minutes, then dress the frogs’ legs, reduce the sauce and pour it over, sprinkling the top plentifully 
with chopped parsley, then serve. 


(1019). FROGS’ LEGS A LA POULETTE WITH MUSHROOMS (Cuisses de Grenouilles & la 
Poulette aux Champignons). 

Cut the frogs’ thighs in two to divide them, and the legs at the joint; should they be small, leave 
the legs whole only suppressing the feet, having one pound in all after they are trimmed. Fry 
them in butter with six ounces of fresh, minced mushrooms, add half a pint of velouté sauce (No. 
415), and let simmer for a few minutes, then thicken the sauce with three raw egg-yolks diluted 
in half a gill of cream; season with salt, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped parsley.. 





DD A te 


(1020). FROGS’ LEGS DEVILED (Cuisses de Grenouilles 4 la Diable.) 


Have one pound of well-pared frogs’ legs; season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemom 
juice and mustard, and immerse them in melted butter, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and 
range them ona double broiler; besprinkle with butter, and broil over a slow fire, then dress them. 
ona deviled sauce (No. 459). 


(1021), FROGS’ LEGS FRIED A LA ORLY (Cuisses de Grenouilles Frites 4 la Orly). 


Divide medium-sized frogs legs by cutting them apart at each joint; put them into a vessel 
with minced onions, branches of parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and sweet oil; let them 
marinate for two hours, then roll them in flour and fry till a good color; drain, and besprinkle 
with salt; dress them on folded napkins with fried parsley on top. Serve ina separate sauce- 
boat a tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(1022), FROGS’ LEGS FRIED WITH CREAM SAUCE (Quisses de Grenouilles Frites Sauce Créme), 
_ Should the frogs’ legs be large, cut them in two by separating them at each joint; season with 
salt and pepper, and wet them over with a little milk, roll them in flour and fry them till a good 
color. First take out the small pieces, then the larger ones, and dress them on a napkin with a 
bunch of parsley on top; serve a cream sauce (No. 454) in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1023), FROGS’ LEGS ROYER (Cuisses de Grenouilles 4 la Royer). 

Fry in two ounces of butter, one pound of trimmed frogs’ legs with a teaspoonful of chopped 
onions added; when done, cover them with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and half as much tomato 
sauce (No. 549); reduce and season to taste. Broil some slices of bacon, cut them up into squares; 
dress the frogs’ legs, dredge over with chopped parsley and surround with the pieces of bacon to. 
form a border. 


408 THE EPICUREAN. 


LOBSTER (Homard), 





A large sea crawfish, the cuirass being strewn with blue spots more or less big on a reddish 
foundation which covers a white tis- 
sue.. This crustacean is not very 
fleshy, feeds but little and is very 
difficult to digest; when cooked it 
turns red. Its claws and tails are the 
only meaty parts and are excellent 
for food. 


Spiny Lobster (Langouste), Palt- 
nurus Locusta.—The spiny lobster has 
two large horns in front of its eyes, 
two others underneath and it is with 
these it catches and draws toward it 
the fish on which it feeds. Its back 
is covered with prickles and very 
rough. During the winter this crus- 
tacean lives in the deep ocean and is 


AY S 


very common in the Mediterranean | : we \ 
sea. Its meat can only be digested ce 
by robust stomachs and it always re- 
Fig. 272. quires to be highly seasoned. Fie. 273. 





(1024), LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER, AMERICAN STYLE (Homard ou Langouste 4 


!'Américaine), . 4 


Cook in a court bouillon some medium sized lobsters, proceeding exactly as described in craw- 
fish au court bouillon (No. 1009); drain and then split them lengthwise in two. Cover with sweet 
oil in a sautoire, some onions and shallots both finely minced, also thyme and bay leaf; lay the 
lobsters over, the cut side on top, heat for a few minutes, season, and pour into the bottom of the 
sautoire, two gills of white wine, and the same quantity of court bouillon stock; cover closely and 
boil over a good fire for twelve minutes, then keep it warm without boiling for ten minutes longer. 
Drain, strain off the liquid, put it back to reduce to a half-glaze, then thicken it with tomato sauce 
(No. 549), mingling in a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine. When the sauce is finished, take it from 
the fire and butter it with fresh butter, adding a dash of cayenne pepper, and half a gill of burned 
brandy; dress and pour the sauce over the whole. 


(1025), SMALL LOBSTERS A LA BORDELAISE (Petits Homards & la Bordelaise), 


} Take four small lobsters weighing one pound each and kill them in boiling water, drain, and 
break off the large claws, put them together in a narrow saucepan, and moisten to three quarters of 
their height with a court bouillon made with white wine (No. 39); let cook for twelve minutes, then 
set aside, and leave them for ten minutes longer in their stock. Cut up into three-sixteenth of an 
inch squares, half a pound of carrots, a quarter of a pound of onions, and a quarter of a pound of 
celery root; parboil them separately and finish cooking them in broth for three-quarters of an hour, 
letting the liquid fall to a glaze until they are done, then add some tomatoes cut up in dice; keep 
this on one side. Drain the lobsters, split them each in two lengthwise, and detach the half tails 
from the bodies; suppress the claw shells and return the tails to their shells, also the bodies; place 
again in the saucepan, cover and keep warm. Strain their broth and free it of fat, let it reduce to 
a hal i-glaze, and thicken with a few spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and 
a lit tle tomato sauce (No. 549). Finish with two spoonfuls of burnt brandy, and a pinch of cayenne; 
take it from the fire to stir in some butter and the vegetable stock; range in vegetable dishes the 
half bodies, and half tails in their shells, set the shelless claws on top, and cover over with a. part 
of the sauce, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. 








MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 409 


(1026), LOBSTER A LA BONNEFOY (Homard & la Bonnefoy), 


Chop up two ounces of onions and two shallots, fry them in oil without letting attain a color, 
and add to them two live lobsters’ tails cut in pieces across three-eighths of an inch thick with their 
shells. Sauté them for a few moments over a brisk fire, and season with salt, cayenne, a bunch of 
parsley, garnished with thyme, and a clove of garlic, moisten with a pint of white or red wine; cover 
the sautoire, and cook the lobsters for fifteen minutes, then drain off the pieces, dress them in a pyra- 
midal form on a dish, and add to the broth a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), and 
espagnole sauce (No. 414). Pound the creamy parts picked from the bodies with a little cayenne 
pepper, press it through a sieve, and stir it into the sauce with some minced mushrooms; pour this 
over the lobsters, and finish by sprinkling the surface with chopped parsley; add a little finely 
shredded tarragon leaves. 


(1027), LOBSTER A LA BRITANNIA (Homard & la Britannia), 


Boil two lobsters of two pounds each in boiling water with some cut up carrofs and onions, 
parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and vinegar; cook for twenty to thirty minutes, then let the stock settle, 
and pour off the top steadily from the sediment; divide the bodies from the tails, take out the 
meat from the latter, also from the claws, and keep it warm in a little of the stock; take also the 
creamy parts from the bodies and rub them through a sieve. Reduce a pint of mushroom broth 
or essence (No. 392) with half a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415), and half a gill of meat glaze (No. 
402), also one gill of Madeira wine; thicken it with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and season 
with salt, red pepper, and nutmeg; add half a pound of mushroom heads, and half a pound of small 
artichoke bottoms cut in four. LEscalop the lobster tails, dress them in a crown shape, and place 
the rest of the meats in the center, on top lay the mushrooms and artichoke bottoms, then finish 
the sauce by thickening with egg-yolks, butter, and cream, add some lemon juice, and chopped 
parsley, also the creamy parts from the bodies; pour the sauce over the lobster, and serve very hot. 


(1028), LOBSTER A LA CAMILLE (Homard & la Camille), 


Heat in a sautoir some good sweet oil, and throw into it live lobsters, each one cut across 
into twelve pieces; season with salt, pepper, mignonette, thyme, bay leaf and cayenne pepper; toss 
them over a brisk fire for twelve minutes, then add three medium fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded 
and cut in dice, a few parsley leaves and aclove of crushed garlic; let reduce for ten min- 
utes, then pour in a gill of brandy, set it on fire, and as soon as it is extinguished pour in two gills 
of white wine, reduce to half, and just when ready to serve, add some meat glaze (No. 402) and 
lemon juice. . 


(1029). LOBSTER A LA CREOLE (Homard 3 la Créole), 


Take two medium lobsters each one weighing about two pounds; cut them up into twelve 
pieces and sauté them over a quick fire with half as much butter as oil; add two ounces of onions 
and one ounce of chopped shallot, salt, pepper, and a garnished bunch of parsley, then moisten with 
four gills of consommé (No.189), and one gill of Madeira wine, add four medium, peeled, pressed 
and halved tomatoes, one green pepper, cut intosmall bits, and alittle curry. Let this simmer for fif- 
teen minutes, add fine herbs and serve. Boil some rice in water with salt and butter, drain, set it 
into a buttered mold, and leave it in the oven for ten minutes, then unmold and serve the rice 
separately but at the same time as the lobsters. 


(1030), DEVILED, ROASTED LOBSTER (Homard Roti a la Diable), 

Kill the lobster in hot water; split in two lengthwise, and range it on a bakiug pan; season 
with salt and cayenne, and pour over some melted butter. Bake it in a moderate oven for twenty 
minutes, cover over with maitre d’hdétel butter containing plenty of diluted mustard. Serve on a 
very hot dish, break the shells with pincers made for this purpose, remove the meat and serve 
them directly on the plates. 


(1031), LOBSTER A LA DUGLERE (Homard & la Duglere). 


Cut live lobsters into pieces, heat some butter in a sautoir, and when hot range the pieces of 
lobster one beside the other; fry them over a quick fire, then moisten with brandy, set it on fire, 
add Madeira and white wine, seasoning with salt, pepper and a little cayenne pepper; add to it 
some peeled, pressed and cut up tomatoes, a clove of crushed garlic, and a good, cooked mirepoix 
(No. 419). Assoon as the lobsters are done, lay them in a dish, reduce the sauce with velouté (No. 
415), and incorporate into it just when ready to serve, some butter and lemon juice; pour this 
over the lobster, and dredge the surface with a pinch of chopped chervil and chives. 


4.10 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1032) LOBSTER A LA FRESNE (Homard & la Fresne), 


Take two lobsters each weighing two and a half pounds, and cook them by steam for one-half 
hour. Detach the tails from the bodies; take the meats out of the former whole, and set it asidy 
to get cool, and from them obtain one pound to cut up into slices; put these into a vessel with 
half as much mushrooms, and half as much truffles as mushrooms, moisten the whole with a pint 
of velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with cream and thickened with egg-yolks and butter, not 
having too much, only just sufficient to envelop the garnishing; dress the lobsters, arranging 
them dome-shape, smooth the surface nicely, and decorate with large fanciful cuts of truffles; 
garnish around with some cream quenelles (No. 76) without decorations. 


(1033), LOBSTER A LA GAMBETTA (Homard & la Gambetta), 


Cut about four pounds of raw lobster tails into transversal pieces three-eighths of an inch 
thick. Fry in four ounces of butter, two ounces of leeks, the same quantity of onions, the same. 
of carrots, and the same of celery, a branch of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, add the remaining: 
part of the lobsters and moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and a quart of fish stock (No. 
195); let ail cook for half an hour, then strain the stock through a sieve, add to it some velouté 
sauce (No. 415), and reduce all together, pass through a tammy into a saucepan previously rubbed 
with a little garlic. Sauté the slices of lobster tails in some clarified butter over a brisk fire, add 
a teaspoonful of shallots, salt and red pepper, then moisten with white wine; reduce quickly and 
pour in the reduced velouté, and a little tomato sauce (No. 549); thicken with four egg-yolks, 
butter and cream; dress the whole into a dish and garnish around with crofiitons fried in oil and 
croquettes of rice cooked and seasoned with hazelnut butter (No. 567), salt, saffron and cayenne 
pepper; when cold make this into small balls three-quarters of an inch in size, dip them in 
eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. On top lay some trussed crawfish. 


(1034), LOBSTER A LA HERVEY (Homard & la Hervey), 


Prepare a court bouillon (No. 38), and in it cook two lobsters each of two pounds; drain them 
for a few minutes; detach the tails from the bodies, and keep them warm in a little of their broth. 
Cut some peeled truffles into thin slices an eighth of an inch thick, and three-quarters to one inch in 
diameter; set them in a bain-marie with a little melted glaze (No. 402) and Madeira wine. Slice the 
lobsters’ tails and claw meat, and fry the pieces in butter; moisten with a pint of cream, reduce and 
season highly, then thicken with egg-yolks, cream and butter. Dress and garnish the dish with 
round apple croquettes one inch in diameter, and cover the entire top with the prepared truffles. 


(1035), LOBSTER A LA LAWRENCE AND MARYLAND (Homard & la Lawrence et & la Maryland), 


Cut into twenty-four pieces the tail parts of four cooked lobsters; season them with salt and. 
mignonette. Heat well in a sautoire four ounces of butter, and two gills of oil, add to it the pieces 
of lobster, and sauté them over a brisk fire, adding four ounces of onions, and two small bunches. 
of parsley garnished with garlic, cloves, and bay leaf; moisten with half a bottleful of red wine, 
and two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414); put in some chopped mushrooms, and the pulp of one: 
lemon; suppress the parsley and bay leaf, and serve the remainder in a dish with finely shred chives 
strewn over the top. 


Maryland Style.—Cut cooked lobsters in slices one-quarter inch in thickness, sauté in fresh 
butter, moisten with cream, let simmer for a few minutes, and before serving, thicken the lobster 
with cooked yolks of eggs, crushed with double the amount of butter, then press through a fine 
sieve, seasoning with red and white pepper and add a little good sherry. 


(1036), SMALL SPINY LOBSTER TAILS A LA MONTE CARLO (Queues de Petites Langoustes 4 
la Monte Carlo, 


Cut a few fresh mushrooms into large dice, and cook them with butter and lemon-juice; poach. 
a few dozen large oysters, cut them up into three-eighths of an inch squares, and strain their broth. 
Cook twelve ounces of picked rice in some fish stock (No. 195), mixed with the oyster and mushroom 
broths, and a coffeespoonful of red pepper (No. 168); have it when done, the consistence of a Creole. 
vice. Keepin boiling water seven or eight small spiny lobsters, each one weighing ten ounces; drain, 
and detach the tails from the bodies; put the latter back into the water to cook for ten minutes longer, 





MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 41} 


then drain and pick out all the creamy parts. Split each tail in two lengthwise, both meat and 
shells, keep all the water running off from the meat, and fry these halved tails ina sautoire for five 
or six minutes with some oil and chopped shallots; season, and dredge over a little red pepper; 
moisten them to their height with good court bouillon (No. 38) and white wine, add some mush- 
room peelings, a garnished bunch of parsley, a lemon pulp, and two chopped tomatoes, and allow 
the liquid to boil rapidly for five or six minutes, then drain off the halved tails, so as to take out the 
meats and keep them warm. Strain the lobster broth, stir into it the water reserved from the meats, 
and reduce it to a half-glaze, then thicken it, first with a little velouté sauce (No. 415), and after- 
ward with a thickening of egg-yolks, cream, and two or three spoonfuls of the creamy parts; butter 
the sauce off the fire without ceasing to stir. After the rice is done to perfection, pour over it a few 
spoonfuls of hazelnut butter (No. 567), and let it smother for five or six minutes; stir in the 
oysters and mushrooms; dress this rice into a vegetable dish, smooth the surface dome-shaped, and 
in the center stick standing three or four large crawfish; around these dress the half tails almost 
upright, and cover over with a little of the sauce, serving the surplus in a sauce-boat. Should the 
spiny lobsters have to be replaced by small ordinary lobsters, then the lobster claws must be sub- 
stituted for the crawfish and be stuck into the summit of the dome. 


(1087). LOBSTER A LA NEWBERG OR DELMONICO (Homard 2 la Newberg ou & la Delmonico), 


Cook six lobsters each weighing about two pounds in boiling salted water for twenty-five minutes. 
Twelve pounds of live lobster when cooked yields from two to two and a half pounds of meat and 
three to four ounces of lobster coral. When cold detach the bodies from the tails and cut the 
latter into slices, put them into a sautoir, each piece lying flat and add hot clarified butter: 
season with salt and fry lightly on both sides without coloring; moisten to their height with 
good raw cream; reduce quickly to half and then add two or three spoonfuls of Madeira wine; boil 
the liquid once more only, then remove and thicken with a thickening of egg-yolks and raw 
cream (No. 175). Cook without boiling, incorporating a little cayenne and butter; warm it up 
again without boiling, tossing the lobster lightly, then arrange the pieces in a vegetable dish and 
pour the sauce over. 


(1038), LOBSTER A LA PAUL BERT (Homard & la Paul Bert). 


Take eight one-pound lobsters and plunge them into boiling water into which has been added 
a bunch of parsley, sliced onions, salt, pepper and vinegar; let them boil steadily twenty min- 
utes, then remove; detach the bodies from the tails; take the meat out whole from the latter by 
breaking the inside of the shell only; then wash and dry the shells. Cut up the tail meat into 
transversal slices; put four ounces of butter into a sautoire, range the lobster escalops on top, and 
sauté them, adding a small finely chopped up shallot, half as much shrimps as lobster, and half as: 
much fresh, peeled walnuts as shrimps. (Should there be no fresh walnuts procurable, take dry 
ones and soak them for twelve hours in salt and water, then peel.) Drain off the butter and replace 
it by a reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409) thickened with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, with 
lemon juice and chopped parsley, being careful to have the sauce quite thick. Fill the lobster 
shells with this preparation, dress them crown-shaped on a bed of parsley, and arrange a bunch 
of parsley leaves on top. 


(1039), LOBSTER, PROVENGAL STYLE (Homard @ la Provengale). 

Divide into equal pieces two medium sized raw lobster tails, season them with salt and mignon- 
ette, and sauté them in oil over a very hot fire, turning them round so that they color nicely on 
both sides. Mince up very finely eight ounces of onions, cutting them first in halves, and sup- 
pressing the root and stalk, put them in with the lobster with salt, pepper, mignonette, a bunch 
of parsley, garnished with thyme and bay leaf, half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549), and four 
spoonfuls of burnt brandy, boil a few minutes; take out the pieces of lobster, strain the sauce 
through a sieve, and reduce it over a brisk fire with half a bottleful of white wine, despumate the 
sauce, and when nearly reduced, put back the lobster, season to taste, and serve. 


(1040), LOBSTER ROASTED ON THE SPIT (Homard Roti a la Broche), 
Killa large six-pound lobster by plunging it into boiling water for three minutes, lay it on the 
spit without trussing, only fastening the claws together with an iron skewer, or else attach it to the 
spit cradle and lay it in front of a good fire, turning it around while besprinkling with a brush 


412 THE EPICUREAN. 


dipped in butter and lemon juice; salt it while it is very hot; pour over a good mirepoix with win > 
(No. 419) and aromatics. A lobster weighing six pounds requires forty minutes cooking, and must 
be besprinkled quite frequently; when the meat is done, the shell should be softened. Remove the 
lobster from the spit, dress it on a dish and serve separately a shallot sauce finished with some 
butter: serve it in a sauce-boat, or replace it by a half-glaze reduced with white wine, inte 
which has been added the juice of a lemon or orange. 


(1041), LOBSTER A LA ROUGEMONT (Homard & la Rougemont). 


Kill three lobsters each weighing two pounds by plunging them for two minutes into boiling 
water; when well drained, break off the claws from the bodies so that they occupy less room in 
cooking, and put the whole into a saucepan; moisten with half a bottleful of white wine, and the 
same quantity of water, and add cut up carrots, celery, leeks and onions, thyme, bay leaf, parsley 
branches and pepper corns, let all boil for twenty-five minutes, and drain off the lobsters. Detach 
the tails from the bodies, split the latter lengthwise to obtain all the creamy parts, which must be 
pressed through a sieve and laid aside. Cut the tail meat into slices, keeping all the water issuing 
from it; fry in either two ounces of butter or oil, the body shells after chopping them up coarsely 
on the table, add minced carrots, celery, onions, leeks, shallots and paprika, half of the lobster 
stock, and the water from the meat; let all boil for fifteen minutes, then strain through a sieve. 
Suppress the shells from the claws, cut up the meat the same as the tails, season with salt and fry 
them both with butter for two minutes over a brisk fire, then moisten with the stock, adding half a 
pint of velouté sauce (No. 415), and one gill of tomato purée (No. 730); let simmer for twelve 
minutes. Add half the quantity of cooked mushroom heads, and the creamy parts of the lobsters, 
thicken with egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter, pour over a little burnt 
brandy, and less than half as much Madeira wine; dress this on a chafing dish, and serve at the 
same time some rice cooked in milk, seasoned with salt and lemon peel. 


(1042), LOBSTER TAILS A LA STANLEY (Queues de Homards 4 la Stanley), 


Wash, blanch, and cook in a white broth (No. 194a), twelve ounces of good Carolina rice, keep- 
ing it quite consistent; twenty to twenty-five minutes will suffice to have it done; keep it warm. 
Suppress the tail shell of a large, freshly cooked lobster; cut the meat into slices, and lay them in a 
sautoire; sauté these, when done add the same quantity of fish quenelles (No. 90) molded in a 
small coffeespoon (No. 155), five or six whole hard boiled egg-yolks, a few dozen crawfish tails, and 
the same amount of poached and trimmed oysters. Put on to reduce five gills of velouté sauce (No. 
415), pour into it slowly a few spoonfuls of fish court-bouillon (No. 88), a part of the broth from 
the oysters, the crawfish, a coffeespoonful of powdered curry dissolved in two spoonfuls of 
broth. When the sauce has become thick and succulent, strain it, and return it to the saucepan 
to heat once more, then cover the garnishings with a small part of it, keeping it in a bain-marie, 
while the remainder is to be set on the side of the range, and butter worked into it. Dress the 
lobster, in a chafing dish dome-shape, with the garnishing around, and on top lay symmetrically 
four cooked crawfish, having their tails shelled, and pour a little of the sauce over the lobster; 
lay a round truffle on the summit of the dome, and send to the table at once with a sauce-boat 
of the buttered sauce. The rice to be served separately. 


(1043, SMALL LOBSTERS A LA CARLU, STUFFED LOBSTER TAILS, DEVILED (Petits 
Homards & la Carlu, Queues de Homards Farcies et & la Diable), 


Split in two lengthwise three or four small, cooked and cold lobsters, and pick the meat from 
the bodies, cut it into half inch square pieces, and set ina saucepan with half its quantity of 
cook ed mushrooms, cut in quarter inch dice. Put on to reduce three gills of good béchamel sauce 
(No. 409), incorporating slowly into it the broth from the mushrooms. With this sauce cover the 
prepared salpicon and use it to fill the half lobster shells that have been well cleaned; smooth the 
tops and cover over with a thin layer of cream fish forcemeat (No. 76), having it slightly dome- 
shaped; sift over white bread-crumbs and sprinkle the surface with melted butter, then range the 
shells on a buttered baking sheet, and brown the tops in a moderate oven for ten minutes, then 
dress them on napkins. 

Yo Stuff Lobster Tails.—Cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, one pound of lobster meat 
cooked ina court bouillon (No. 38), add to these half the same quantity of cooked mushrooms cut up 





‘ 
aT =e we 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 413 


the same size. Fry colorless in butter, two tablespoonfuls of onions, add two ounces of 
flour, and fry without browning; dilute with a pint of milk and cook again for a few minutes, then 
add the lobster and mushrooms, mix well, boil up once, remove, and cool off. Fill the half tail 
shells, well cleaned and dried, with this preparation, dredge over bread-crumbs, besprinkle with 
butter and brown them in a hot oven. 


For Deviled.—Clean and dry the half body shells; fill them with the same preparation as 
above, having it dome-shaped, smooth the surface, and coat over with mustard; dredge bread- 
crumbs on top, besprinkle with butter, and brown nicely in the oven. 


(1044), LOBSTER WITH CREAM (Homard & la Oréme), 


Plunge two lobsters each weighing two pounds into boiling water, so as to kill them quickly; 
break off the large claws, and lay them in a narrow saucepan with the bodies; moisten them to 
their height with white wine and water, add branches of parsley, bay leaf, onions, finely shred 
carrots and salt; let boil for twenty minutes, drain and detach the tails from the bodies. Takeout 
the creamy part from the bodies, press through a sieve, and keep this aside. Fry in some butter, 
four finely chopped, blanched shallots, moisten them with the lobster stock, and boil for fifteen 
minutes, strain, remove the fat, and reduce to a half-glaze, then thicken with two spoonfuls of 
velouté sauce (No. 415); continue to reduce while pouring in two gills of good raw cream, strain 
this sauce and add to it the creamy parts of the lobster, a dash of cayenne pepper and half a 
gill of burnt brandy; butter it without ceasing to stir so that the butter is thoroughly incor- 
porated. Out across in slices the tail meat and shells; cut the remaining bodies in two, and dress 
the two halves one beside the other in the center of a dish; range around the slices of tail, alter- 
nating each piece with a fine slice of cooked truffle, and on top of the body shells lay the claw 
meat; cover the lobsters with a part of the sauce, and serve the rest in a separate sauce-boat. 


MUSSELS (Moules), 


This bivalvular shell-fish is without any distinct head, or eyes, or organs of mastication; there 
are sea and river mussels. The shells from the sea kind are oval shaped, 
convex on the outside, and concave inside, black, bluish, smoothly polished, 
and varying from two to three inches in length. Mussels must be chosen 
very fresh. Be careful after having washed them to place them in a vessel 
with salted water and leave them for several hours. 





Fic. 274. 


(1045), MUSSELS, HOW TO PREPARE (Moules, pour Préparer), 


Obtain four quarts of medium sized. mussels; tear off the grass, scrape them well, and wash. 
them several times, changing the water constantly. Put them when clean into a saucepan with half 
a pint of water or white wine, a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, and bay leaf; set the saucepan over 
a brisk fire, cover it well, and open the mussels by tossing them frequently, then take them out 
with a skimmer to transfer them into another saucepan. Strain the broth, leaving all sediment at 
the bottom, pouring it off gently not to disturb the sand; take out all the empty shells, cut off the 
foot (the black appendage) from the mussels with a pair of scissors, and put them back on their 
half shells into their own broth. 


(1046), MUSSELS A LA MARINIERE (Moules & la Marinitre), 

The mussels should be prepared as for No. 1045. Cook in butter one shallot with the same 
quantity of very finely choppedonions; moisten with white wine, add the mussels and a little veloute 
sauce (No. 415), and mussel broth; keep this warm and just when ready to serve, stir in a piece of 
fresh butter and chopped parsley. 


(1047), MUSSELS A LA POULETTE (Moules & la Poulette), 


Prepare the mussels as for No. 1045; cut two ounces of onions into one-eighth of an inch pieces 
and cook them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, not letting them attain a color, moisten 
with a pint and a half of velouté sauce (No. 415), and a small part of the mussel broth; reduce this 


414 THE EPICUREAN. 


sauce with mushroom parings added, strain it through a tammy, and thicken with a thickening of 
egg-yolks diluted with a little of the broth, and fine butter; cook this thickening without allowing 


it to boil, stirring it steadily; season to taste and serve. 


(1048). MUSSELS A LA VILLEROI (Moules & la Villeroi), 


These must be prepared as for No. 1045. Take the mussels from their shells; cut off the foot 
without injuring the mussel, then dip them into an allemande sauce (No. 407) with cooked fine herbs, 
well reduced and partially cold; dip them in for the second time when very cold, then put them 
aside in the ice-box for one hour; lift them up with a thin knife, immerse them in beaten eggs, 
then in bread-crumbs and fry them of a fine color; serve on folded napkins. 


(1049), MUSSELS STUFFED A LA TOULOUSAINE (Moules Farcies & 1a Toulousaine), 


To be prepared the same as for No. 1045. Take them out of their shells after draining, cut off 
the foot, and divide the mussels up into half inch pieces. Fry in oil acut up onion, anda whole clove 
of garlic; add to it fresh bread-crumbs, and moisten with mussel broth and milk; boil and stir ina 
little finely chopped, cooked spinach, suppress the garlic, and add the mussels. Fill the shells 
with this; range them on a dish, strew bread-crumbs and parmesan on top, besprinkle with fine oil, 
and brown them nicely in a quick oven. Serve on a folded napkin. 


(1050), MUSSELS WITH FINE HERBS, BAKED (Moules aux Fines Herbes Gratinées), 


Prepare and cook the mussels as for No. 1045. Take them entirely out of their shells; cut off 
the foot with scissors, and range them one beside the other on a buttered dish; sprinkle the top 
over with finely and separately chopped up shallots, onions, mushrooms, and parsley; lay bread- 
crumbs and grated parmesan over, pour in some melted butter, and set the dish in the oven fol 
eight or ten minutes. 


(1051), MUSSELS WITH SHALLOT (Moules & l'Echalote), 


Set into a saucepan a few dozen, medium sized mussels; let them open over a brisk fire, 
with a bunch of parsley added, and toss them about until the meats get firm. Drain them 
through a colander laid over a bowl, in order to collect all their broth, then remove the empty 
shells from each, and put the mussels back into the saucepan to keep warm. Put into another sauce- 
pan two spoonfuls of chopped shallot, and one of onions; add a gillof white wine, and two spoonfuls 
of tarragon vinegar; reduce the liquid slowly to half, remove the saucepan from the fire, and let 
the contents get partially cold, then stir in three or four raw egg-yolks. Beat with a spoon, and 
thicken the liquid slightly by stirring it on the fire, then take it off, and incorporate into it slowly, 
five ounces of butter divided into small pats, without ceasing to stir; finish the sauce with two 
spoonfuls of shallot juice, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Dress the mussels into a vegetable 
dish, pour over the sauce and serve. 


OYSTERS (Huitres), 


A bivalve having an irregular shell attached by hinges, and having an oblong, grooved indent 
across. It is headless, toothless and sexless; it cannot 
live out of water, and is specially fond of the mouths of 
rivers. The fishing begins in September, and finishes 
in the latter part of April; in all the intervening 
months, or those containing no letter R in their names, 
the oysters are replaced by Little Neck clams, Fresh — 
oysters are easier digested in the raw state than when Fic. 276. 
cooked, for the heat hardens them while the sea water 

the raw ones facilitates digestion. Oysters contain plenty of water, very little solid animal 
vatter, a great deal of lime and sulphate of iron, osmazome and gelatin. These bivalves agree with 


out constitutions, but should be eaten very fresh. Like certain fishes, oysters contain — 
losphorus. 











MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 415 


(1052) OYSTERS A LA BEARNAISE, TOMATOED (Huitres & la Béarnaise Tomatée). 


Place some large oysters in a saucepan on the fire; poach them slightly in their own liquor, 
drain and suppress the hard parts, then roll them in a sautoir containing cooked fine herbs. 
Butter some boat-shaped tartlet molds, line them with a delicate chicken forcemeat (No. 62); and 
lay one oyster and some of the fine herbs in every mold; cover over with more forcemeat, so that 
it is well filled and rounded on the top, then poach, unmold, and dip them in beaten eggs; roll in 
bread-crumbs, and fry in clarified butter. Serve a separate sauce-boat of tomato béarnaise 
sauce (No. 433). 


(1053), OYSTERS A LA BOUCICAULT (Huttres & la Boucicault), 


Butter a deep dish; pour into it some oysters with their own liquor; season with salt, pepper, 
tomato catsup and tobasco sauce; scatter over a few bits of butter, here and there, and then set 
the dish into a hot oven; serve aS soon as the oysters are poached, that is as soon as they are 
firm to the touch. 


(1054), OYSTERS RISSOLETTES A LA POMPADOUR (Rissolettes d’Huitres & la Pompadour), 


After blanching medium-sized oysters, drain and suppress the hard parts; prepare some round 
pieces of thin pancake, two and a half inches in diameter; fill half of each with a little thick 
Italian sauce (No. 484); lay an oyster on top with more sauce over, then force a quarter inch 
cord of fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) through a cornet on one half of the pancake; fold over 
and fasten the edges together; dip them in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs, and fry a fine color; 
then dress on a folded napkin and garnish with a bunch of fried parsley. 


(1055), OYSTERS A LA RUBINO (Huitres & la Rubino). 


Butter a deep dish and pour into it the oysters with their own liquor; season with salt and 
lack pepper, and add the heart stalks of a head of celery cut into thin lengthwise slices, and a few 
small pieces of fresh butter; cover it over with another dish and set it into a moderate oven for 
fifteen minutes, then serve. 


(1056), OYSTERS A LA VILLEROI (Huitres & la Villeroi), 


Poach some large oysters in their own liquor; drainand wipe them dry. Reduce some velouté 
sauce (No. 415), with the oyster liquor and a little jelly, thicken it with egg-yolks, and leave it to 
get nearly cold; cover the oysters with one or two layers of this sauce, range them on a baking 
sheet, one beside the other, and put them away until thoroughly cold, pare them, then dip in 
beaten eggs, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat toa golden color; drain and 
‘dress them on a folded napkin; lay on top a bunch of fried parsley, and serve with a sauce- 
boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(1057). OYSTERS BAKED, A LA CRANE (Huitres au Gratin & la Orane). 


Lay in a deep dish fit to be placed in the oven, a bed of medium sized drained oysters; season 
with salt, pepper, and a few small pieces of butter; sift over some fresh bread-crumbs, and pour in 
a little sherry wine and some of the oyster liquor; repeat the same operation until the dish is full, 
then besprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs; scatter small pats of butter here and there, and set 
the dish into a hot oven for ten to fifteen minutes to bake them a fine color, then serve. 


(1058), OYSTER BROCHETTES WITH TRUFFLES (Huitres en Brochettes aux Truffes), 


Poach in their liquor three dozen large oysters; when they are cold, pare and season, run a 
small wooden skewer through their centers, alternating each oyster with a round slice of cooked 
truffle. Dip these brochettes into a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), into which has been 
added chopped mushrooms and fine herbs. Range them at once on a baking sheet, and leave 
them in the ice-box till the sauce is thoroughly cold; three hours later, detach them from the sheet, 
remove the superflous sauce, and shape them nicely, roll them in white bread-crumbs, dip them in 
beaten eggs, and again in bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces, and plunge the brochettes into very 
hot fat, until they attain a golden color; then withdraw the skewers and dress them at once on a 
folded napkin. Garnish with fried parsley. 


416 THE EPICUREAN, 





(1059), BROILED OYSTERS, MAITRE D'HOTEL AND ON SKEWERS (Huitres Grillées Maitre 
d’'Hotel et en Brochettes), 


Drain some large oysters; wipe dry, and season with salt and pepper; range them on a hinged 
broiler, coat over either with melted butter or oil (but no bread-crumbgy, broil them over a quick 
fire without coloring, then dress them on pieces of toast, and pour over a little slightly melted 
maitre-d’hotel butter (No. 581); or, they may be bread. crumbed after dipping in butter, and then 
broiled over a slow fire, covering with the maitre d’hdtel butter. 

For Brochettes or Skewers.—Blanch some large oysters, run a skewer through them niet 
around with a band of very thin and fat bacon, cut sufficiently long that one alone answers for a 
brochette; sprinkle over some butter, and broil them over a quick fire, then dress them on a hot 
dish, and cover with maitre d’hdétel butter (No. 581). 


(1060). FRIED OYSTERS A LA HORLY (Huitres Frites & la Horly), 


Poach some medium sized oysters in their own liquor, drain and suppress the hard parts; 
wipe them in a cloth, and lay them in a vessel to season with salt and pepper, adding parsley, 
chopped mushrooms, lemon juice and a little oil; let marinate for two hours; now dip them in 
fine frying batter (No. 137), into which has been mixed well beaten egg-whites; immerse each 
oyster into this paste and plunge them at once into very hot fat; fry them a fine color, drain, salt, 
and dress them on a folded napkin. Seta bunch of fried parsley on top and quartered lemons 
around; to be served with a separate sauce-boat of light tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(1061), OYSTERS FRIED WITH BUTTER OR LARD (Huitres Frites au Beurre ou au Saindoux)} 


Fried Oysters With Butter.—Poach the oysters lightly in their own liquor, then drain anc 
roll them in pulverized cracker-dust, dip them in beaten egg that has been mixed with a little milk 
seasoned with salt and pepper and strained through a strainer; roll them in bread-crumbs. Put 
some butter into a sautoire or frying-pan; when very hot lay in the oysters one beside the other, 
and as soon as they are fried nicely on one side, turn them over on the other when done; drain, 
and pile them on a folded napkin, and serve very hot. 


Fried Oysters with Lard.—Drain medium-sized oysters; roll them in pulverized cracker-dust, 
then dip them in eggs to which have been added an equal quantity of oyster liquor and seasoned with 
salt and pepper, beaten well with a whisk and strained through a strainer. Roll them once 
more in the cracker-dust, shape them nicely, and plunge them into very hot lard; when a fine 
color, drain, besprinkle with a little table salt and dress on folded napkins. 


(1062) OYSTERS ON CRUSTS (Huitres sur Crotites), 


Blanch in their liquor, three dozen large oysters; pare and cut them up into five-eighths 
inch squares. Put on to reduce a few spoonfuls of good béchamel sauce (No. 409), mix in with it 
two or three spoonfuls of raw, chopped, peeled mushrooms, continue to reduce the sauce without 
ceasing to stir, and incorporate into it slowly a few spoonfuls of the oyster broth, and a little 
cream. Use this sauce to mingle with the oyster salpicon, being careful to keep the mixture of 
a good consistency,and use it to cover seven or eight hollow bread-crusts (No. 52), prepared the ; 
same as for poached eggs browned and emptied just when ready to serve. Smooth the surfaces, 
bestrew with bread-crumbs and sprinkle over with a little melted butter; brown them with a hot 
Shovel or else a gas salamander, and serve. 

Another Way.—Prepare some oysters the same as oysters 4 la poulette (No. 1067). Out the 
tops from some rolls, empty them by removing all the crumbs, rub fresh butter over the inside 
and outside of the rolls, color nicely in the oven; when the crust is crisp, fill it with the prepared 
oysters, put the cover on, and serve on a folded napkin. 


(1063). OYSTERS, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Huitres & la Philadelphie), 


Put two ounces of butter into a pan and let it cook till nut brown, then add to it twenty oys’ 
ters well drained and wiped; fry them till they assume a light color on both sides, then pour in a 
quarter of a pint of oyster liquor, salt and pepper. Serve at the same time thin slices of toasted 
bread, or else pour the oysters over slices of toast laid in a deep dish. 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 417 


(1064), STEAMED OYSTERS AND ON TOAST (Huitres & la Vapeur et Sur Crodtes Grillées), 


Wash very carefully some medium sized unopened oysters; Jay them on a wire grater provided: 
with a handle so that they can easily be removed when done; set this grater into a steamer, cover 
it as hermetically as possible, and when the oysters are opened, lift them out, take off the flat shell. 
and serve them in the deep ones. Each guest seasons his oysters according to his individual tere 
with salt, black or red pepper or tomato catsup. Serve some melted butter separately. 

Steamed Oysters on Toast.—They must be steamed as for the above; open and put them into a. 
sautoire with their own juice; season with salt, pepper and add a little fine butter, and serve them 
in a deep dish over slices of toasted bread. 


(1065), OYSTERS, BECHAMEL WITH TRUFFLES (Huitres Béchamel aux Truffes), 


Reduce a cream béchamel sauce (No. 411) with the oyster liquor; season with salt, cayenne 
and nutmeg; add the poached oysters (No. 1067) and just when ready to serve, stir in a piece of 
fresh butter and very finely chopped truffles. 


(1066). OYSTERS A LA HOLLANDAISE (Huitres & la Hollandaise), 


Poach the oysters (No. 1067), then drain them, dress them into a deep dish and cover 
them with a Hollandaise sauce (No. 477). 


(1067). FRICASSEED OYSTERS OR LVS POULETTE (Huitres Fricassées ou & la Poulette),. 


To Poach Oysters.—Set a saucepan on the hot fire, and place the oysters in it with their own 
liquor, being careful to stir them about at times to prevent them adhering to the bottom; when 
firm to the touch, drain them from their liquor. They can also be poached by placing a few at the 
time between two tin sheets, the top one or cover being smaller than the bottom one, so that the 
ridge of the top sheet be the same size as the bottom of the lower one. Put the oysters in the 
bottom buttered sheet with their own liquor, salt, pepper and fresh butter, cover with the smaller 
sheet turned over, set this on the fire and at the first boil, place it ina slow oven for about ten 
minutes or until poached, then drain off the liquor. 

Oysters Fricasseed or a la Poulette.—Reduce some velouté sauce (No. 415) with oyster liquor, 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and thicken with egg-yolks diluted in a little cream; incor- 
porate into it a piece of fresh butter, some strained lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(1068). OYSTERS, VIENNAISE (Huitres Fricassées 4 la Viennaise), 


Reduce some velouté sauce (No. 415) with oyster liquor, and just when prepared to serve, 
thicken it with raw egg-yolks and cream; stir in a piece of lobster butter (No. 580), and some 
finely chopped parsley, mix the oysters with the sauce and serve. 


(1069), OYSTERS STUFFED A LA MORNAY (Huitres Farcies a la Mornay). 


Poach about thirty medium oysters in their liquor, pare and split them through the center, 
then stuff this opening with a fine hash made of half lobster, half mushrooms and a little parsley 
mixed with a little béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced until it becomes thick; garnish a buttered 
baking dish with these oysters, cover with a layer of cold Mornay sauce (No. 504), smooth the 
top nicely and strew over some grated parmesan cheese; and color in a very hot oven or under the 
gas salamander (Fig. 123). 


(1070), OYSTERS STUFFED AND FRIED (Huitres Farcies et Frites), 


Poach large oysters in their own liquor; when cold, trim them and cut them through their 
thickest part without separating the pieces, then stuff this opening with a preparation of cooked 
fine herbs mingled with a reduced and thick béchamel sauce (No. 409); press down the top 
part so as to attach them together, then season. Just when ready to serve bread-crumb them Eng- 
glish style (No. 13), and fry them in clarified butter, and after they have attained a fine colog: 


drain and serve them at once on folded napkins. 


418 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1071). OYSTERS WITH CURRY—INDIAN STYLE (Huitres au Kari & VIndienne). 


Have some large oysters placing them in a saucepan with their own liquor, put on the 
fire and when slightly firm to the touch, drain and suppress the hard parts. Cut up two ounces of 
onions into very small squares; fry without coloring, besprinkle with a little flour, and stir well, 
then moisten with the oyster liquor and white wine, season with salt, pepper and curry, let. boil, 
and despumate; add the oysters and keep warm until ready to serve. In the meantime cook 
some rice in water with salt and a piece of butter; when done and dry, add to it a very little bé- 
chamel sauce (No. 409), also a small pinch of saffron; heat it thoroughly and lay it in a plain border 
mold (Fig. 139) dipped in cold water; unmold it on the serving dish; lay the oysters inside this 
border, and send to the table while very hot. 


(1072), OYSTERS WITH FINE HERBS (Huitres aux Fines Herta? 


Drain medium-sized oysters; dry them on a cloth and roll them in flour, then sauté them in 
very warm butter, and dress them on a hot dish; squeeze over the juice of a lemon, and be- 
strew the top with chervil, parsley and chives, all finely and separately chopped up. 


(1073), OYSTERS WITH PARMESAN FRIED IN OIL (Huitres au Parmesan Frites 4 1'Huile). 


Take medium sized oysters that have not been poached; drain and dry them in a cloth; then 
roll them in grated parmesan cheese. Beat up some eggs in a vessel; add the same quantity of 
cream, stir well, and strain through a strainer, dip the oysters in this, roll them in cracker dust, 
and smooth them nicely, plunge them into very hot oil, and fry them toa nice golden color, 
drain, salt, wipe and dress them on folded napkins. 


SCALLOPS, ST, JACQUES SHELLS (Pétoncles, Coquilles St. Jacques ou 
Coquilles des Pélerins), 


Testaceous bivalvular mollusks, having a semi-circular shell grooved on the sides forming rays 
on each valve toward the edges. They are eaten, although ofa tough nature. 


(1074), SCALLOPS A LA BRESTOISE (Pétoncles & la Brestoise), 


Cook the scallops in a sautoir with white wine and half as much mush- 
room liquor, drain and chop them well. Fry in butter without coloring, 
Fig. 277. finely cut up onions, moisten with the scallop broth, add fresh bread- 
crumbs, and let cook slowly for ten minutes, then add well-chopped lobster 
coral, fine herbs, salt, nutmeg, a dash of cayenne, a piece of butter and the chopped scallops; mix 
thoroughly and with this preparation garnish the scallop shells full and rounded on top; besprinkle 
with fresh bread-crumbs, pour over a little butter, and set them in a moderate oven; when a fine 
color, dress crown-shaped on folded napkins with sprigs of parsley in the center. 


(1075), SCALLOPS A LA HAVRAISE (Pétoncles & la Havraise), 


Pour white wine into a saucepan; add the scallops and take them off at the first 
boil; drain and mince them finely. Fry without coloring some chopped shallots, 
dredge over a little flour, add the minced scallops and their broth reduced; lobster 
coral and chopped up parsley. Fill well buttered scallop shells with this prepara- 
tion, having them rounded on the top, strew over bread-crumbs, besprinkle with 
butter and color in a hot oven, then dress them on a napkin ina straight row, . Fie. 278. 
and garnish with sprigs of parsley. 


(1076), SCALLOPS A LA MARINIERE (Pétoncles & la Mariniére), 


This simple dish is highly appreciated by amateurs of shell-fish. Cut the scallops up into quar- 
ter-inch squares; put them back on their deep shells; season with salt and pepper, dredge over 
some finely chopped fresh mushrooms, parsley and bread-crumbs, and lay on each a small piece 
of butter, also a teaspoonful of white wine. Cook in a hot oven from ten to twelve minutes, and 
after removing them, pour over a little lemon juice, then dress on folded napkins garnishing with _ 
sprigs of parsley. 














MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 419 


(1077). SCALLOPS, ORLY (Pétoncles & la Orly), 


Put the scallops into a bowl with salt, pepper, nutmeg, shallots, oil and lemon juice, let mar- 
inate for one hour, then roll them in cracker-dust and plunge them into hot, white frying fat to 
fry a fine color. They are to be dressed on a folded napkin and garnished with fried parsley, 
‘serving a tomato sauce (No. 549) separately. Rige 


With Milk and Flowr.—Season with salt and pepper; moisten with a little milk, roll them in 
flour and fry a golden brown; drain, wipe and dress the scallops on a folded napkin. 


With Eggs and Bread-crumbs.—Season the scallops with salt and pepper, immerse in beaten 
‘eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a nice color; drain, wipe and dress on a napkin. 


(1078), SCALLOPS ON TOAST, BAKED (Croiites de Pétoncles au Gratin.) 


Toast some slices of Jocko bread (No. 3416), and lay them ona well buttered dish. Blanch 
the scallops in a little white wine, salt and pepper, range them on the toast, one beside the 
other, very close together. Mix the scallop broth with some béchamel sauce (No. 409), and with 
this cover all the scallops and toast; besprinkle with bread raspings, grated cheese and butter, 
and brown them in a hot oven. 


(1079) ST. JACQUES SHELLS, PARISIAN STYLE—LARGE SPECIES OF SCALLOPS (Coquilles 
St. Jacques & la Parisienne—Grands Pétoncles), 


Open eight or ten large, fresh St. Jacques shells (Fig. 277—large species of scallops), 
detach the meats, also the white and red milts, poach with a little white wine, drain and cut them 
into dice pieces; keep this salpicon aside. Frysome chopped onions and shallots in butter, add raw 
mushrooms cut in small squares and let cook until they have reduced their moisture, then put in 
the prepared salpicon five or six minutes later. Season the stew, thickening with freshly reduced 
béchamel (No. 409), boil again for a few moments without ceasing to stir; it should now be quite 
consistent; finish off of the fire with a dash of cayenne pepper, a piece of fresh butter and a piece 
of red butter (No. 580). Take the stew up with aspoon and fill the shells, bestrew the preparation 
with bread-crumbs, sprinkled over with melted butter and then bake in a moderate oven for ten 
minutes, take out and dress. 


SHRIMPS (Crevettes de Mer), 





A small crustacean with a long body, the tail is about as long as the body itself. The two first 
feet end in a claw shape; only after being cooked or dipped 
in alcohol does its meat turn red. 







4 


CA 
ea SS 









We 
Ze 


ANY 
\ Ss 


Rr \y 





(1080), FRIED SHRIMPS (Orevettes Frites), 


Take half a pound of shrimps; they should be alive; wipe” 
them inacloth. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter in a 
saucepan, let it settle and pour off the top into a pan; 
when very hot, add to it the shrimps, season, and fry 
them over a good fire from eight to ten minutes or until they become a good red color, then 


serve. 






Fig. 279. 


(1081), SHRIMPS WITH MUSHROOMS AND TOMATOED BEARNAISE (Crevettes aux Champignons 
& la Béarnaise Tomatée). 
Drain some large shrimps; fry them in butter with raw minced mushrooms; season with salt, 


nutmeg, pepper and lemon juice; add some chopped parsley and a little fish glaze (No. 899). Fill 
the bottom of a dish with some tomatoed béarnaise (No. 433), and dress the fried shrimps on 


top, strewing over a little chopped parsley. 


420 THE EPICUREAN. 


TERRAPIN (Terraptne), 





Diamond-back or salt water terrapin are found all along the Atlantic coast, but more especially } 


in the Chesapeake bay and its tributaries; other salt water species from Massachusetts to Texas. 
are quite numerous, and as a substitute for those of the Chesapeake are extensively used by houses. 
of ordinary reputation. The scarcity of Chesapeake diamond-back terrapin grows more apparent 
each year, and even now it frequently requires many days of laborious and tedious work and many 
miles of walking over soft boggy marshes, of 
prodding in deep narrow channels with long- 
shafted tongs by men skilled and familiar 
with all their cunning habits before one is. 
taken from a hiding place, just below the 
surface, sufficiently deep for protection 
against the winter frosts. The favorite place- 
for the hibernation of the very largest size is a. 
few inches below the soft oozy mud at the bed. 
of a three or four fathom V-shaped channel in the bed of a creek of about the same distance from. 
shore to shore. Thousands of such creeks penetrate the shores and islands of the Chesapeake, and 
those less frequented by man are instinctively selected by the terrapin for its haunts. At least. 
ninety per cent. of those taken from the beds of deep creeks will measure six and one-half to eight 
and one-half inches with an average weight of nearly two and three-fourths pounds, are females; 
while eighty per cent. of those bedded in the marshes have an average weight of three-fourths. 
of a pound and measure less than five inches. The males invariably bed in the marshes and among: 
the rushes of very shallow ponds, only venturing in cold water during the summer and the warm- 
est spring and fall months, in which time they lead a migratory life in search of food, consisting 
principally of small shell fish and the soft-shell crabs. About ninety-eight per cent. of the male: 
terrapin never exceed five inches in length on the bottom shell, while the female has been known. 
to measure nine inches and weigh seven and one-half pounds. In the month of December, 
1885, Delmonico received from Baltimore a Chesapeake Maryland terrapin measuring eight and 
three-fourths inches, weighing nine and one-half pounds and containing fifty-six eggs; this must. 
be accepted as one of the finest specimens ever found of the diamond-back Chesapeake bay terrapin. 
The standard length for those who buy and sell terrapin is six inches; when of this dimension they 
are called ‘‘counts,” Both the male and female are very shy and active, swim well and run. 
(though awkwardly) with considerable speed. Prior to about 1870 the salt and brackish waters of 
the bay literally teemed with this now nearly exterminated and hence valuable reptile; they could 
betaken by the dozen ata single haul of a long net, but the market value was so small as to render 





them almost worthless except for local use, and in consequence thousands of large egg terrapin. . 


were fed away to swine or cooked for fattening fowls. The people, thoughtless and unprincipled, 
have robbed themselves by trapping incalculable quantities of terrapin before they had matured. 
sufficiently for breeding and by digging eggs from beneath the sand shores where they had been 
deposited by the females to hatch. While the laws enacted by the legislatures of Maryland and 
Virginia for their protection differ somewhat they are both excellent, and had they been rigidly 
enforced this spectacle of ultimate extermination would not exist. The time for hibernation usu- 
ally lasts about six months, beginning with approaching frosty weather in the fall and continuing 
till the warm spring weather; they bury a few inches deep in the mud and leave, at the spot where 
they disappear, a mound in the middle of which a hole can be discerned. It is this mound and 
its hole which first attracts the attention of the fisherman; during this period an enormous. 
quantity of terrapin are caught in their torpid state. They take no nourishment whatever while 
in this condition. They hatch their young toward the end of June and the beginning of July. 
The terrapin season is from the month of November to May; they are at their best during Decem- 
ber, January, February and March. Very often terrapin are sent to market in October and Noy- 
ember, also penned terrapin of the year before. 


Penned Terrapin.—Are those caught beforehand and kept in an enclosed place; they are fed 
on oysters, crabs or fish; these terrapin are never so good as those freshly caught. The small 
species of terrapin are divided into two classes: heifers, the under shell of these never measuring? 
more than five inches in length, and bulls five to five and a half. Terrapin begin to hatch their 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 421 


eggs at the age of four years; while growing their shell lengthens one inch every year, so their age 
may be approximately judged by their length, for example: a six-inch terrapin is supposed to be 
six years old. ; 


TABLE LIST NO. 1. 





Accord’g|Price per| Price Per 


























A Number. | Size. Pound. | Ounce. | to No. | Pound. Doze Potal. 
12 9) # | 13 |No. 6} $0.90) $ 8.77 
REPOST ee tele g ssc se 102; 12 of 1d 20 |No. 1} 1.30 19.50 
SCC ree sc cccs ce 20} 12 55 13$-| 18 |No. 5) 1.10 14.85 
—| 12 52 Dots) 2 214 (No. 5) 1.15 17.54 
NOE sess Soot oteeee 82) 12 54 144 | 19 |No. 2} 1.20 L7t0 
12 5 144 | 19 .|No.4-5; 1.12! - 15.96 
Average dozen 15.70. | — 
: . $93.72 
Average weight of each terrapin 18 ounces. 
12 64 224% | 30 |No. 3] 1.60] $36.00 
12 6% 254 | 34 |No. 5) 1.60) 40.80 
ae 156, 12 | 6 20 | 24 |No. 6 1.30) 23.40 
es psp ess ss 20, 12 | 64 | 26 | 26 |No. 6 1.35} 27.00 
el 5 62 28 34 |No. 5) 1.60 41.60 
ME eos s os 136] 12 | 64 | 24 | 32 |No. 3) 1.65] 39.60 
Average dozen 35,15. 
$208. 40 
Average weight of each 30 ounces. 
12 7 30 mc0Nes 40 <i Noord) 1. 70h 850. 00).5 2a 
C , 12 Ut 36 48 |No. 3] 1.80 64.80 
ae 214) 12 Cy ota, | = 4009 No. 9d). 2 1.15), 59.94 
Ou Sie aa Borie a | 36E | 49 |No. 5) 1.80) 66.18 
FE PA ii 264 | 36 |No. 6} 1.60 42.00 
Oe oe 194) 12 | 7 | 302 | 42 |No. 5) 1.70) 52.26 
A dozen 53.72. 
verage dozen $336. ae 
Average weight of each 43 ounces. 
12 84 Beta) 52 2 Nop6 18] 8770.06, 
12 | 8 | 414 | 55 |No. 5] 1.90) 78.83 
ean aamereae 973) 12 8 39 52 |No. 5) 1.85 72.15 
ee. go] | st | 49 | 65 [No 8 205) 100.45 
<a 12 | 8 42 | 56 |No. 4] 1.90] 79.80 
ae eee | 482 | 59 IND. 3) 2.00) 0 59.00 
Average dozen $1.08. $490.54/81,128.81 





1 


Average weight of each 56 ounces. 














The average weight of the dozen for the whole list is 274 Poundd The average price 
of the whole list is $1.70. The average price of the dozen for the whole list is 847.00. 


The prices quoted above are the actual prices of terrapins in New York, Baltimore and Cris- 
field, and are liable to fluctuate according to the market supply; this can be overcome by diminish- 
ing or augmenting the price per pound. 

The letters in the four divisions of the table No. 1, refer to sizes of the terrapins. A. denotes 
terrapins from five to six inches; B. from six to seven, etc. . 

To make use of these tables: Weigh the terrapins and barrel as receiv ed, deduct weight of 
barrel, grass, ete., which will leave the net weight, Sort the terrapins by sizes in differences of a 
quarter of an inch, using the measure shown in Fig. 281. Weigh the terrapins of each size by 













CAT 
eA AA 1 












Fig. 281. 





422 ph ce Bd oD EPICUREAN. | 


ounces, then find the average weight of each, refer to table No. 2, looking in the first column for 
the corresponding length, then find in what column their average weight in ounces is found; in this. 
same section will be found their price by the pound; for instance: a seven and three-quarter inch. 
terrapin weighing 64 ounces at $2.05 cents a pound will cost $8.20, or one dozen will cost $98.40. _ 


———————————— 


TABLE LIST NO. 2. 4 
No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. F 


ieee nda nA CC a Ty LP es ee 













































































































































































: : - . ° Pp « Price! ¥ 
ming tine! tae ee aera ga) es perl.) peri] perl per Ib. | 
5 inches 18 oz. 17 oz. 16 oz. 15 02. ‘|14 oz. 13 OS sca ‘ 
1 pound $1.20 $1.15}: $1.10 $1.05 $1.00 90c: 
54 inches 20 ig 18 17 Rene) eis’ — *(15 
1 pound 2 ounces Tees OUTS ae cree 1.15 LI0}) 2 0S 
54 inches 24. 23 22 20 {18 116 
1 pound 5 ounces 1.35 1.30 1.20 1.15 1.10) "Sse 
5? inches 26 25 24 23 21 19 
1 pound 7 ounces 1.40 Leo L380 120 : =e 1.10: 
6 inches 30 29 28 27 26 24 
1 pound 11 ounces 1.65 1.60 1.50 1.40 1.35 1.30: 
6+ inches 32 Celok _ (380 29 28. 26 
1 pound 14 ounces 1.70 1.65 1.60 1.50 1.40 1.35. 
64 inches 36 34 32 dl 30 28 
2 pounds 1 ounce 1.75 TU 1.65 1.60 1.50}: ° ge 
6% inches 42 40) 38 36 34 32 
2 pounds 5 ounces 1.80 ae 1.70 1.65 1.60 1.50) 
? inches 48 46 42 40 58 36 
2 pounds 9 ounces 1.85 1.80 ip 1.70 1.65 1.60: 
74+ inches 52 50 48 46 42 140 : 
2 pounds 14 ounces 1.90 1.85 1.8010 = ei 1.70 1.65. 
4 inches 56 52 50 48 46 44 
3 pounds 1 ounce 2.00 1.90 1.85 1.80 1.7 17 
7% inches 64 60 58 51 50 46 
3 pounds 3 ounces 2.05 2.00 1.90 1.85 1.80 1.75. 
& inches 72 64 60 56 52 48 
3 pounds 8 ounces 2.10 2.05 2.00 1.80 1.85 1.80: 
_ 8% inches 74 72 64 60 54 D2 
3 pounds 12 ounces 2.15 2.10 2.05 2.00 1.90 1.85. 
83 inches 76 74 G2 64. 58 54 
4 pounds 2.25 2.15 2.10 2.05 2.00 1.90 

















This list is only for the best Chesapeake Maryland terrapins. 


——— ea 
7 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 423 


To Select Terrapin.—To buy terrapin See Schedules or Tables Nos. 1 and 2. When buying 
terrapin be careful to observe that the extreme tip or muzzle of the head is not injured, that the 
bottom of the feet are not worn off, that the head is prettily shaped, small thin and pointed, the 
eyes brilliant and the feet small and slender. The superiority of their race is made apparent by 
their fine appearance. There is no doubt that the diamond-back Chesapeake bay terrapin are far 
better than any other kind found in the markets. Their price is very high, they being sold on an 
average of the five to six inch ones or over at a $1.25 a pound or $15.00 to $17.00 a dozen; the six 
to seven inch ones bring $1.50 a pound or $35.00 to $40.00 a dozen; the seven to eight inch ones 
bring $1.75 a pound or $55.00 to $60.00 a dozen; the eight to nine inches bring $1.90 a pound or 
$80.00 to $85.00 a dozen. They should be procured before the extreme cold weather sets in to 
avoid freezing during the trip, for once frost bitten they die easily. 


To Keep the Terrapin.—In order to keep them properly they must be left in a. cold 
place forty to forty-five degrees Fahrenheit; it should also‘be clean, well aired, dark and better be 
too damp than too dry. They must be placed in large or small boxes according to the quantity; 
range the terrapin in the boxes, pressing them down one beside the other so that they cannot 
possibly move, and between each bed lay damp sea grass. When packed like this they may be 
kept for several months. Examine the terrapin now and then. Should there be any dead. ones 
take them out. They must be handled with care, laid one next to the other, not thrown, as 
they are very tender and delicate and are liable to die easily, incurring a heavy loss, as a dead 
terrapin is a ruined one and ought to be thrown away at once. No eggs are found in terrapin 
of less than six inches long. 


(1082). TO PREPARE AND COOK TERRAPIN (Pour Préparer et Ouire la Terrapéne), 


Drop the terrapin in sufficient tepid water to allow it to swim, and leave them thus 
for half an hour, then change the water several times and wash them well. Scald, by 
plunging them into boiling water, and take out as quickly as the skin (a small white skin 
on the head and feet) can be removed with a cloth, put them on to cook in water without any 
salt or seasoning, or else in a steam vessel leaving them for thirty to forty-five minutes, 
and lift them out as quickly as they are done. In order to be sure of this, press the feet meat 
between the fingers, and if it yields easily under the pressure, they are ready. Those that cannot 
be cooked in forty-five minutes are considered of an inferior quality, and those that are not done 
after one hour (unless they are very large), should be rejected as worthless, for although the meat 
may eventually become tender, it will be stringy and not have the same delicate taste of a good 
terrapin. Let them get cold, cut off the nails, then break the shell on the flat side, on both sides 
near the upper or top one; detach this shell from the meats, empty out all the insides found in this 
upper shell, suppressing the entrails and lights, and carefully removing the gall bladder from the 
liver, being very particular not to break it, also cutting away with the tip of a small knife any gall 
spots to be found thereon, then place the liver in cold water. Remove the white inside muscles, as 
well as the head and tail; separate the legs at their joints and divide into an inch and a quarter 
pieces; do not break the bones; the lights, entrails, head, tail, claws, heart, muscles and gall 
bladder to be thrown away. Lay the terrapin in a saucepan with the eggs and liver cut in thin 
slices, season with salt, black pepper and cayenne, and cover with sufficient water to attain to the 
heighth of the terrapin, then let boil and finish the cooking in a slow oven for twenty to thirty 
minutes; the terrapin is now ready to be used, and can easily be finished by following the recipes 
found later on. Should it only be required for the next day, place in tin molds or else small China 
pots, the proportions being at the inside bottom two and three-eighths inches, on top, three inches 
in diameter, and two and three-eighth inches high. Allow four or six eggs to each, fill them 
up with ‘terrapin, about six ounces for each, and finish filling with the broth; each mold will 
contain one portion. When unmolded each one should weigh seven ounces. This quantity wilk 
be sufficient for two or three persons for a dinner and for five persons for a buffet. 


(1083), TERRAPIN A LA BALTIMORE (Terrapéne & la Baltimore). 


Have one quart of prepared terrapin as explained in No. 1082; drain it off. Cook four ounces of 
butter in a saucepan till it becomes hazelnut butter (No. 567), but watch carefully that it does not 
blacken; add to it the terrapin with some salt, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of cayenne, 
fry for few moments, then moisten with the broth. Dilute one tablespoonful of fecula, arrowroot or 
cornstarch in a little cold water, pour it in with the terrapin, toss well to thicken nicely, and just when 


A24 THE EPICUREAN 


ready to serve add half a gill of good sherry wine. After the terrapin has been prepared it is 
served in chafing dishes kept warm by water boiling continuously by means of an alcohol lamp, 





Fig. 282. 





or else in small silver plated saucepans (Fig. 282) or in China terrapins (Fig. 283), the backs of 
which are loose and are used as covers; whichever way may be chosen, be most particular that the 
terrapin is always served very hot. 


(1084), TERRAPIN A LA ORISFIELD (Terrapéne 4 la Orisfield), 

Heat well four ounces of butter in a sautoir, and place a quart of cooked and drained terrapin 
into it, season with salt and cayenne, and fry the terrapin for a few minutes, then add one pint 
of good fresh cream. Reduce this cream to half, thickening with a tablespoonful of rice flour 
diluted with half a gill of sweet cream; pour in when ready to serve, half a gill of good sherry 
‘wine. 


(1085), TERRAPIN A LA MARYLAND OR PHILADELPHIA (Terrapéne & la Maryland ou & la 
Philadelphie), | 

Pound eight hard egg-yolks, with four ounces of butter; then pass through a sieve. Prepare 

and cook one quart of terrapin as explained for No. 1082, add a pint of cream, let boil for five 

minutes, then thicken it with the prepared egg-yolks and butter, and let simmer for ten minutes, 


seasoning with salt, and white or cayenne pepper; just when serving mix in half a gill of good 
sherry or Madeira wine. 


41086). TERRAPIN A LA NEWBERG OR DELMONICO (Terrapéne a la Newberg ou a la Del- 
monico), 

Prepare and cook the terrapin the same as No. 1082. For each quart, add a half a pint of 
cream, reduce to half, season with salt and cayenne pepper, thicken with five raw egg-yolks 
-diluted with half a pint of cream, and two ounces of fresh butter, toss the terrapin while adding 
the thickening; this must not boil, finishing with half a gill of very good sherry wine or Madeira. 
‘The sauce should be thick and served very hot. 


(1087), TERRAPIN, ANCIENT STYLE (Terrapéne 4 l’Ancienne), 

Choose a six anda half inch terrapin, seald to remove the skin, and wrap it in several 
sheets of buttered paper; put it on a baking sheet and set it into a slow oven; it will take about 
an hour to cook; unwrap, and break the shell; remove the meats, suppress the gall-bag attached to 
the liver, also any spots found on the same, and cut it up into slices; take away the head, tail, 
claws, and white muscles on the four members, and then warm the terrapin in a good thick gravy 


(No. 405), season with salt, freshly ground pepper, cayenne, butter, adding some good sherry wine. 
Serve on a chafing dish. 


(1088), TERRAPIN, MARYLAND CLUB (Terrapéne, Maryland Club), : 
Have the terrapin ready and cooked as for No. 1082. For one quart of it, place four ounces 
‘of butter in a sautoir on the fire; let it heat and skim it well until it begins to become (nut but- 
ter); add to it the terrapin, and season with salt, cayenne and black pepper, also half a gill of 


good sherry. It can also be prepared by placing it in a chafing dish with salt, cayenne, fresh but- 
ter, and half a gill of good sherry. 


(1089), CUTLETS OF TERRAPIN AND CROQUETTES, CREAM SAUGCE (Odtelettes de Terrapéne 
et Croquettes Sauce Créme), 

Have a pound anda half of cooked and boneless terrapin, cut in half inch squares; put these on the 

fire In a stewpan, seasoning with salt and red pepper; heat well and thicken with egg-yolks, butter, 

and cream moistened with a little good sherry; let get partially cold and then mold in cutlet-shaped 


MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS. 425 


bottomless molds laid on a sheet of heavy buttered paper slightly larger than the mold itself, and 
set on level baking tins. Fill the molds to the top with terrapin, lay them on ice, and when 
the preparation is perfectly cold, unmold and dip the cutlets into beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, 
then fry them in clarified butter; wipe and dress crown-shaped on folded napkins, garnishing the 
center with fried green parsley. If for croquettes mold the terrapin in timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 
187) and finish the same as the cutlets; serve a cream sauce (No. 545) separately. 


(1090), STEWED TERRAPIN WITH MADEIRA WINE (Ragott de Terrapéne au Madre), 


After the terrapin have been cut up, fry them in butter, then dredge over a little four that 
has been browned in the oven. Fry once more for a few minutes, moisten with half white wine 
and half broth (No. 194a), season with salt and pepper, and let simmer and despumate for twenty 
minutes; finish cooking in the oven for thirty or forty minutes longer, and just when prepared to 
serve, add a little good Sherry or Madeira wine. 


(1090a). TERRAPIN A LA TRENTON (Terrapéne & la Trenton), 


_ Prepare two terrapins, each weighing three pounds; when cooked and ready, as explained in 
No. 1082, add one pint of cream and reduce to half; then thicken with three hard-boiled eggs 
teduced to a paste with three ounccs of butter and three coffeespoonfuls of fecula diluted in three 
spoonfuls of good sherry. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, a teaspoonful of paprika 
and a teaspoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers; finish with a little good sherry. 


(1090b), TERRAPIN, EPICUREAN STYLE (Terrapéne & VEpicurienne), 


The diamond-back Chesapeake, Maryland terrapins are considered the best. They must be 
freshly caught. Long Island terrapins are also much liked by epicures, some averring that they 
are as fine as. the Chesapeake, but this is not a fact, and I do not hesitate to class them according 
to the following order: First, the Chesapeake, then the Long Island, Virginia, Charleston and 
Savannah, North Carolina, Florida, Mississippi and Texas, the Gulf, Mobile, etc. Take two terra- 
pins, each one of three pounds weight, and prepare them as described in No. 1082.. Fry in two 
ounces of butter, adding two ounces of rice flour well mingled in; moisten with water as high as 
the terrapin and let boil until thoroughly cooked, seasoning with salt and pepper; add a 
pint of cream and reduce; finish with three hard-boiled egg-yolks, pounded and formed into a 
paste with three tablespoonfuls of good sherry wine. Serve separately on a folded napkin some 
very small oysters, drained and rolled in cracker dust, then fried in butter; surround these with 
quartered lemons. 


TURTLE (Tortue), 


An amphibious quadruped, having all its body, except the head, feet, and tail, covered with 
avery hard shell. It is enclosed in a cuirass composed of two pieces; the one covering the back is 





Fia. 284. 


called the carapace; this is convex shaped; the vertebra are attached to it. The underneath one 
is attached to the breast; this is flat and is called the plastron. The choicest and most delicate 


part of the turtle is that attached to the upper shell. 


426 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1091), TURTLE, HAVANA STYLE (Tortue & la Havanaise), 


Lard the fins of a turtle with calf’s udder, braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419), moistened 
with Madeira, and when the turtle is cooked, take out the stock and put it into a flat saucepan 
with an equal quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce and despumate; add some finely 
shreded green peppers, peeled and quartered tomatoes, Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies. 
and fish quenelles (Nv. 90); glaze the turtle with meat glaze (No. 402), dress with the garnishing: 


around, and serve. 


(1092), GREEN TURTLE BAKED—SMALL (Petite Tortue Verte au Gratin), 


Obtain a young turtle weighing ten pounds; remove and lard the meat with small lardons;. 
clean well the carapace; braise the meats in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) with the belly shells, letting 
the meats be well cooked, and the braise stock reduced to half; transfer the meats to a vessel, 
strain the stock over and let it get cold. Cut the meats up into quarter inch squares, as well as the- 
cutaneous parts from the belly. Fry in butter four ounces of onions cut in squares; sift over some 
flour, and moisten with the stock; add the turtle meat; stir the preparation until it comes to a boil, 
season and thicken with hard boiled egg-yolks mixed with an equal quantity of butter, and press. 
through a fine sieve. Add some parsley and finely chopped raw mushrooms; then use this stew to- 
fill up the carapace or deep shell; bestrew over with bread-raspings, besprinkle with butter and browa 
a nice color in a slow oven; serve when very hot. | 


(1093), TURTLE STEWED A LA FOSTER (Ragotit de Tortue & la Foster), 


Cut the turtle meat into one inch and a quarter squares; fry them in butter, and sprinkle over 
with flour, stir well, then moisten with broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, small onions, a piece of bacon cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, and mushrooms cut 
the same; season with salt, black and red pepper, this should not be confused with cayenne 
pepper, they are entirely different (No. 168); when the stew is done and ready to serve, pour in a 
little Madeira wine, suppress the parsley, reduce it properly and serve. 





FISH (Poisson). 


(1094), ANGEL FISH A LA BAHAMA (Poisson Ange 4 la Bahama), 


Prepare a wine court bouillon (No. 39), dress an angel or moon fish, tying down the head. 
Place this fish on a fish kettle grate; just cover it with the cold court bouillon, and allow 
the liquid to come to a boil, then set it on one side of the range; cover the top with a buttered 
paper and let cook without boiling; the time it will take depends entirely upon the size of the fish;. 
if it weighs six to eight pounds, it will certainly take from one hour to one hour and a quarter. 
When finished, drain, and slide it on a dish; surround with clusters of cooked shrimps and. 
cooked mushrooms and cover the garnishing with a lean velouté sauce (No. 416) with white wine. 
the court bouillon and two cloves of garlic added; reduce this to the consistency of a sauce, them 
take out the garlic and add some powdered sweet Spanish peppers and curry; serve the remainder 
of the sauce separately. 


(1095), BLACK BASS A LA NARRAGANSETT (Bass Noir a la Narragansett), 


Cut the bass through its entire length in two; suppress the fillet skin and remove the back 
bone; divide each fillet in two lengthwise pieces, then into slices, half an inch thick; have twelve 
of these paring them all into half-hearts; range them in a well buttered sautoir, one beside the. 
other, moistening to their height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419). Cover over with a sheet of 
buttered paper, and set thisinto a slow oven to cook, then transfer the fillets on a dish, and strain 
the broth over the fillets; when cold remove them entirely from what now should be a jelly; reduce: 
some velouté sauce (No. 415) with this jelly and mushroom essence (No. 392); when reduced quite: 
thick, add chopped mushrooms and fine herbs and set it aside to get partially cold; cover the entire: 
fillets with this, leave them until perfectly cold, then pare nicely and dip in beaten eggs, roll 
in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color in clarified butter; dress crown shaped on a folded 
napkin with fried parsley in the center and quartered lemon around. Serve a separate sauce-boat 
of the following sauce: Chop up one shallot, fry it in butter, add to it twelve small finely minced 
clams without any liquor, and moisten with a pint of unsalted béchamel (No. 409), Season to taste; 
when ready to serve thicken with egg-yolks and cream, incorporating a good sized piece of fresh. 
butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(1096), BLACK BASS AIGUILLETTES WITH OYSTER CRABS (Aiguillettes de Bass Noir aux: 
Crabes d’Huitres), 


Pare twelve fillets of black bass free of skin, shaping into aiguillettes; season with salt and 
pepper, then put them into a sautoir, and moisten with fish stock (No. 195) and the oyster crab 
broth; cook in a slow oven, basting them frequently while they are cooking, then drain off the 
liquid and reduce it with the same quantity of velouté sauce (No. 415). Just when prepared to 
serve, incorporate into it a good sized piece of butter, then strain through a tammy. Put the 
oyster crabs into a sautoir with a little white wine, set it on the fire, and at the first boil 
drain them well. Dress the fish in two straight rows on a long dish; set the oyster crabs 
between these two rows, and cover the whole with half of the sauce, serving the other half 
separately. 


(1097), BLAGK BASS WITH SWEET PEPPERS (Bass Noir aux Poivrons Doux), 


Split the bass lengthwise on the belly side to the back, but do not separate the pieces; take: 
out the backbone; season with salt, baste with a little oil, besprinkle with fresh bread-crumbs, and 
broil over a slow fire, turning it once only; when done dress on a hot dish. Garnish around 
with sweet peppers fried in oil with a little crushed and chopped garlic, salt, black and prepared. 


red pepper (No. 168), fine herbs and lemon eee 


428 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1098), RED BASS. WATER FISH (Bass Rouge, “Water Fish”), 


Cut into short Julienne some carrots, leeks, parsley root and celery root; slice or cut some 
onions into squares, and put all into a saucepan to moisten with fish broth (No. 195); boil and 
reduce to a glaze; moisten again with water, add salt and the fish whole, cooking it in this court 
bouillon. Drain, reduce the stock, thickening it with a little velouté sauce (No. 415), the juice of 
a lemon, and butter; mix in with it blanched parsley leaves. Dress the fish on a folded napkin, © 
surround with sprigs of parsley and serve the sauce separate. 7 


(1099). SEA BASS AST VILLEROI (Bass de Mer & la Villeroi), 


Remove the fillets, bones, and skin from a sea bass; pare the fillets into half-heart shapes and 
season each piece with salt and pepper; sauté these in butter with lemon juice, and take them out 
singly to place on a baking sheet; set a light weight on top; when cold pare them exactly alike and 
cover over with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407) and a little jelly, into which has been 
added finely chopped mushrooms and parsley; let get very cold, then bread-crumb them by rolling 
them first in bread-crumbs, afterward in beaten eggs, and once more in the bread-crumbs; smooth 
the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and lay them at the bottom of a wire basket; plunge it in 
very hot frying fat, taking them out when a fine color; dress on napkins and serve with fried pars- 
ley as a garnishing. 


(1100), SEA BASS WITH ALMOND BUTTER (Bass de Mer au Beurre d’Amandes), 


Remove the fillets from the fish; season them with salt and pepper, saturate with oil, and 
broil over a slow fire without browing; dress and surround the fillets with potato balls three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter, first boiled, then sautéd in butter. Cover the surface of the fish 
with slightly melted almond butter (No. 568), and besprinkle the potatoes with finely chopped 
parsley. 


(1101), STRIPED OR ROCK BASS A LA BERGY (Bass Rayé ou de Roches @ la Bercy), 


Prepare two small bass each of two pounds, and when very clean cut the heads into pieces, add- 
ing a few large bones from other fish; put all these into a small saucepan and moisten to their 
height with a good fish court bouillon, prepared with white wine (No. 39); season, let the liquid 
boil for a quarter of an hour so as to extract all the essence from the bones, then strain and skim 





Fic. 285. 


off the fat. Have a small oval baking-tin with raised edges, just large enough to hold the fillets of 
fish; sprinkle over with chopped up onions, shallots, and mushroom parings; lay the fillets of 
fish on top and moisten to its heighth with some of the above court bouillon; after the liquid has 
come to a boil, set the pan into a moderate oven so that the fish cooks for fifteen minutes, then 
drain and dress the fillets on a medium sized dish covering it with a smaller one to keep it hot. 
. Strain the broth, free it from fat, and pour into it two spoonfuls of good white wine, then let 
2 reduce to the consistency of a half-glaze; take it off, stir in a piece of butter, finishing with 
“mon juice; pour this sauce over the fish. Glaze this sauce immediately with an iron or gas sala- 
mander for two minutes, or if there be neither, lay the dish on a thick baking sheet and set it in a 
risk oven, being careful not to disturb the sauce. The delicacy of this preparation depends 
‘itirely upon the excellence of the court bouillon. i . 





bd Bo oe be 429: 


(1102), STRIPED BASS A LA CONTI (Bass Rayé & la Conti). 


Lift the fillets of bass; suppress the skin and trim them into half inch thick slices, paring: 
them into half-hearts, two inches by two and a half; season. Cut also from the fish small strips. 
three inches long, and three-quarters of an inch wide, sloping the ends down to points; make five- 
or six bias incisions through half their thickness and fill each one with a slice of very green pickled 
gherkin; lay these strips on the largest end of the fillet, shaping them like a horseshoe, and place- 
the fillets in a buttered sautoir; moisten with a good white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), and 
cover over with a sheet of strong buttered paper; bring the liquid to a boil and finish cooking in a. 
slow oven for ten to fifteen minutes. Dressand garnish with three-quarters of an inch ball-shaped 
potato croquettes (No. 2782), strain the broth and reduce it to the consistency of a glaze, finishing: 
the sauce with a good sized piece of butter, stirring it in with a wire whisk, also the juice of a. 
lemon and chopped parsley. 


(1103), STRIPED BASS A LA LAGUIPIERRE (Bass Rayé & la Laguipierre), 


Lift off the fillets from several bass, three-quarters of a pound each; suppress the skin and beat 
them down with the handle of a knife, fold them in two in the center, and trim them half heart- 
shaped, then lay them in a buttered sautoir and moisten with a good court bouillon (No. 38). 
Prepare small pike quenelles (No. 90), some oysters or mussels and mushrooms; have a velouté- 
sauce (No. 415), reduced with some of the court bouillon and thickened with egg-yolks and cream; 
strain through a sieve and keep half of it aside; to the other half add the quenelles, mushrooms and 
oysters. Dress the well-drained fish crown-shaped, fill the center with the stew, and cover the 
fish with half of the remaining sauce, sending the other half to the table in a sauce-boat. Do not 
garnish the fish with potatoes, when the sauce is poured over it, serve them separately. 


(1104). STRIPED BASS A LA LONG BRANCH (Bass Rayé 4 la Long Branch), 


After the bass has been dressed and cleaned remove the fillets and meats adhering to the skin, 
trimming them into half inch thick slices shaped like half-hearts, three anda half inches by two;,. 
place on a baking sheet, cover with buttered paper, and poach them in butter and a court bouillon. 
(No. 38); let get slightly cold under the pressure of a weight; drain and pare them again. Pre- 
pare a good essence (No. 388), with the heads and bones of the fish; skim off the fat and strain, 
then slowly incorporate into it one quart of reduced velouté (No. 415); add a little oyster liquor and 
mushroom essence (No. 392), and when the sauce is properly reduced and of a sufficient succulence, 
thicken it with egg-yolks and finish with a piece of crawfish butter (No. 573); when partly cold 
cover the fillets with a thick layer of this sauce, and set them aside to get cold. Dip each piece. 
of fish into beaten eggs, bread-crumbs, and fry of a good color in clarified butter, drain and dress. 
on folded napkins. 


(1105), STRIPED BASS A LA MAINTENON (Bass Rayé & la Maintenon), 


Procure small bass weighing from four to six ounces; cleanse and wash them well; wipe dry 
and remoye the skin on each side; season with salt and coat over with butter; wrap them up in 
heavy oiled paper, then broil them for fifteen or twenty minutes; unwrap and dress them on a 
dish; glaze over with lobster butter (No. 580), and surround with oyster bellies and pike quenelles 
(No. 784). Cover these garnishings with lobster sauce (No. 488), and serve at the same time a 
separate bowl of the sauce. 


(1106). STRIPED BASS A LA MASSENA—WHOLE (Bass Rayé & la Masséna—Entier), 


Fry colorless in butter, two ounces of onions cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, as much 
earrots cut the same, as much minced mushrooms, one bay leaf, the same quantity of thyme a nd 
parsley leaves, moistening with white wine and broth, half and half; cook together for twenty 
minutes and let get cold. Clean and dress a bass of six pounds, place it in the fish kettle, and 
pour over the prepared court-bouillon; boil and skim the liquid when required, then remove it 
from the hot fire and continue boiling slowly for forty-five minutes, drain, and strain the stock, 
and add part of this to an allemande sauce (No. 407), reduce the two together. When ready to 
serve dress the bass, glaze it with fish glaze (No. 399), mingled with lobster butter (No. 580), 
garnish around with sautéd mushrooms and lobster escalops sautéd with fine herbs. Incorporate 
into the sauce a large piece of lobster butter, pour two-thirds over the lobster and mushrooms, 
surround these with oysters a la villeroi (No. 698), and serve the rest of the sauce in a separate 
sauce-boat. 


430 THE EPICUREAN. 





(1107), STRIPED BASS A LA MORNAY (Bass Rayé & la Mornay), 


Remove the fillets from a bass, skin and pare nicely, then lay them one beside the other (the 
side the skin was on being uppermost) on an oval-shaped raised edge baking pan, covering the 
bottom with butter and finely sliced onions and carrots; moisten to their heighth with a white wine 
court bouillon (No. 39), season with salt, and cover the top with a buttered paper; cook in a slow 
oven basting the fillets frequently. When the fish is done, drain it off and dress the pieces on a 
dish, covering it with another smaller one to keep it warm. Strain and reduce the gravy, incor- 
porating into it a few spoonfuls of good béchamel (No. 409); when it appears rich and succulent, | 
finish with some parmesan cheese, butter, and a pinch of cayenne pepper; pour this sauce over 
the fish, dredge grated parmesan on top, and let it bake slightly in a very hot oven or brown 
the surface with an iron or gas salamander (Fig. 128). 


(1108), STRIPED BASS A LA ROUENNAISE (Bass Rayé & la Rouennaise), 

Dress the fish and put it into a fish kettle, moistening with a mirepoix (No. 419), and white 
wine, adding to it a few branches of parsley; when the fish is done, drain the stock, and reduce it; 
mingle it with a Normande sauce (No. 509), finished with lobster butter (No. 580). Dish up the fish 
and garnish around with blanched oysters, mushroom heads, and pike quenelles (No. 90), molded 
with a teaspoon (No. 155), the whole arranged in clusters. Cover over with half of the sauce, 
and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. Besides these garnishings an outside row of trussed 
<rawfish should be added. : 


(1109), STRIPED BASS A LA WHITNEY (Bass Rayé & la Whitney). 

Remove the fillets from a striped bass; lift off the skin and pare them half heart-shaped; lay 
them in a buttered sautoir, season with salt, red pepper, and finely chopped shallots; moisten 
exactly to their height with a court bouillon and white wine (No. 39); cover with buttered paper, 
then set it on the fire to cook slowly for twenty-five minutes; drain the liquid from the fish, and 
reduce it with as much velouté sauce (No. 415) to the consistency of a light sauce, thickening with 
raw egg-yolks and cream, incorporating also into it a piece of fresh butter. Pare the fillets, dress 
them crown shaped and garnish the center with lobster escalops, minced truffles and mushrooms. 
‘Cover the whole with two-thirds of the sauce, sending the rest to the table in a separate sauce- 
boat. 


(1110), STRIPED BASS BOILED WITH HOLLANDAISE MODERN SAUCE (Bass Rayé bouilli, 
Sauce Hollandaise Moderne), 


Wash and clean well a six pound bass, tie down the head and put it into a fish-boiler 
with plenty of salt and a large bunch of parsley garnished with a clove of garlic; cover it entirely 
with cold water containing a little vinegar. Set the kettle on a brisk fire, boil the liquid, skim- 
ming off the scum at the first boil, then place it on one side of the range to keep bubbling while 
covered for three-quarters of an hour; drain and dress it on a folded napkin, garnishing one side 
with boiled potato balls and the other with small potato croquettes (No. 2782), shaped either as 
balls or olives, and at the ends lay very green sprigs of parsley. Accompany this with a sauce- 
boat of modern hollandaise sauce (No. 501). 


(1111), STRIPED BASS, SHRIMP SAUCE WITH FRIED SCALLOPS (Bass Rayé Sauce Orevette 
aux Pétoncles Frits), 


Lift the fillets from a three pound bass, pare them neatly, removing the skin, and lay them on 
a buttered dish, seasoning with salt and pepper; moisten with white wine and court bouillon, 
(No. 39), and let cook in a slow oven without attaining a color, then dress on a hot dish. Roll 
some scallops in flour, fry them in very hot fat without browning, drain and put them into a frying 
pan containing a piece of butter; color slightly, besprinkle with salt and chopped parsley. Cover 


the fish, with a shrimp sauce (No. 540), lay the scallops around and send some of the sauce to the 
table in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1112), STRIPED BASS WITH FINE HERBS (Bass Rayé aux Fines Herbes). 


Pare some boneless and skinless fillets of bass in the shape of half hearts; put them in a 
savtoir after buttering it well, and moisten them with wine and mushroom liquor; cover 
and put to cook in a slack oven; drain off the liquid, pour it into a sautéing pan with as 


ES Er. } | 431 


at ee 

much yelouté sauce (No. 415); reduce well and finish by incorporating a large piece of butter 
and some lemon juice; taste to judge of its seasoning and add more accordingly. Strain this 
sauce through a tammy (No. 159), add some chopped blanched parsley and dress the fish in a 
circle or a straight row, then cover with the sauce and serve immediately. 


(1113), STRIPED BASS WITH WHITE WINE—BAKED (Bass Rayé Gratiné au Vin Blano), 


Take off the fillets from a medium sized bass weighing about two pounds, remove the skin 
from these and lay each whole fillet on the dish intended for serving, and that can be placed in the 
oven; cover the fish with white wine, and strew over some onions cut in thin slices, sprigs of parsley, 
thyme, bay lcaf, mushroom parings, salt, pepper, and a few small bits of butter. Cover with 
another dish of the same shape, only smaller and put it in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes; 
now drain off the liquid, reduce it with as much velouté sauce (No. 415), and when very well 
reduced, strain through a tammy (No. 159), and incorporate in two ounces of butter, working it 
thoroughly with a small wire whip. Pour this all over the fish to cover it entirely, strew the top 
with grated parmesan or fine bread-raspings, and let it attain a fine color in the hot oven or 
salamander (Fig. 123); serve as soon as it is browned. 


(1114), BLACKFISH A LA ORLY (Blackfish & la Orly). 


Lift the fillets from a blackfish; remove the skin by laying the black side on a very level table 
or board; press down on the fish with the left hand, while with the right pass a knife between the 
skin and flesh. Divide the fillets into thin, lengthwise slices; marinate them in salt, sweet oil with 
minced onions, lemon juice, and tarragon leaves; two hours later drain them on a cloth, flour over, 
and dip in a good frying batter (No. 133); plunge them into hot fat, and cook slowly tili a fine 
color, then drain, salt, and dress them on napkins with sliced lemon around; serve a tomato 
sauce (No. 549) separately. 


(1115), BLACKFISH A LA SANFORD (Blackfish 4 la Sanford), 


Remove the fillets from sufficient blackfish leaving on the black skin; divide each fillet into 
two pieces. Cover the bottom of a sautoir with butter, chopped shallots, and onions, and chopped 
mushrooms; lay on top the pieces of blackfish, and a branch of parsley, and moisten with a court 
Douillon (No. 38), let boil slowly for six minutes, then remove the sautoir on a very slow fire; 
when done lift out the fish with a spatula, suppress the black skin, and dress it ona dish. Gar- 
nish with handsome mushroom heads, oysters,-and parsley sprigs; strain the broth, reduce it toa 
half-glaze, and thicken it with a pint of reduced velouté sauce (No. 415). Finish it away from 
the fire with butter, lemon juice, and a very little finely shredded chives. — 


(1116), BLACKFISH A LA VILLARET (Blackfish & la Villaret), 


* Cook a whole blackfish in a mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 419), drain the stock after the 
fish is done, strain, and reduce it with the same quantity of velouté sauce (No. 415), adding chopped 
up shallots; thicken the sauce with raw egg-yolks, cream, fresh butter, and fish glaze (No. 399); 
strain it again through a tammy and finish with chopped parsley. Range the fish on a dish, 
garnish around with potato croquettes (No. 2782), and branches of parsley, sending the sauce to 
the table in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1117). BLUBFISH A LA BARNAVE (Bluefish & la Barnave). 


Select very small bluefish weighing half a pound; clean, wash, and wipe them dry. Fill 
the insides with a pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), into which has been mixed a quarter of 
the same quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Range the fish on a buttered baking dish, 
sprinkle over some butter and cook in a moderate oven; when done dress them on a 
mushroom purée (No. 722), and serve a separate barnave sauce (No. 431), at the same time as 
the fish. 


(1118), BLUEFISH, HAVANESE STYLE (Bluefish & la Havanaise), 


Clean a bluefish weighing six pounds; wash and wipe it nicely; raise the fillets, suppress the 
skin and pare them half heart-shaped. Put some clarified butter into a sautoir on a brisk fire and 
when hot, lay in the pieces of fish; sauté, then drain and dry them, afterward dress them crown 


432 THE EPICUREAN. 


shaped on a baking dish. Have already prepared a good tomato sauce made from peeled tomatoes 
cut into five-eighths inch squares, minced mushrooms and four ounces of onions cut into three 
sixteenth inch pieces; half a pound of sweet peppers, half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), two 
pints of fish broth (No. 195); reduce the whole properly and cover the fish thickly with this pre- 
paration, then set it into the oven and serve after a few moments, dredging over some chopped up 
parsley. 


(1119), BLUEFISH DEVILED (Bluefish & la Diable), 


Have well cleansed, washed and dried bluefish; split them open on the belly side without 
separating the parts, dredge over salt and pepper and besprinkle with oil; broil them till half done 
then cover over with diluted mustard, strew bread-crumbs on top and finish broiling the fish 
over a slow fire. Serve the following sauce in a sauce-boat: Chop up two shallots; place them in 
a saucepan with a gill of vinegar, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, whole black peppers, greei 
peppers, bay leaf, espagnole sauce (No. 414), and gravy. Let simmer, despumate and strain 
through a tammy (No. 159), finishing with a little chopped parsley when serving. 


(1120), BLUEFISH IN PAPERS (Bluefish en Papillotes), 


Fry colorless in butter one ounce of shallots and the same quantity of mushrooms and half as 
many truffles as mushrooms, chopping each one finely and separately; moisten with a half-glaze 
sauce (No. 418), and some gravy, then reduce this sauce, add to it a little chopped parsley and let 
get partially cold. Oil some pieces of paper cut heart-shaped; pour some of the sauce on one of 
their sides, lay the fish on top with more sauce over and fold the paper in such a manner that it 
thoroughly encloses the fish, and is air tight, range the papers on a serving dish, sprinkle over a 
Jittle oil, and set it into a hot oven and when they swell and are of a fine color send them to the 
table at once. 


(1121), BLUEFISH WITH MAYONNAISE AND TARRAGON (Bluefish & la Mayonnaise et 4 
VEstragon), ; 
Lift the fillets from very fresh bluefish, also the skin covering the meats by placing the fish on 
a very even board and pressing down on the fish with one hand, while using the other to slip a 
thin, straight knife between the skin and meat. Cut the fish into slices, season, and bread them by 
first dipping them in eggs and then in bread-crumbs; put the pieces on to cook in a sautoir with 
clarified butter, being careful to turn them over when nicely browned on one side; when done 
equally well on both sides, drain and serve them on a hot dish surrounded with quartered lemons. 
Serve separately at the same time a mayonnaise sauce with tarragon (No. 612). 


(1122), BONITO OR TUNNY FISH A LA GODIVIER (Bonite ou Thon & la Godivier) 


Raise the fillets from a young bonito or tunny fish after having washed and cleansed it well; 
place it in a buttered sautoir and moisten to its height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419). Cover 
with heavy buttered paper, let boil, and finish cooking in a slack oven. Fry one shallot in butter, 
dilute it with some of the fish stock and the same quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414); after the 
sauce is well reduced mix in withit a little tomato sauce (No. 549), a little crushed garlic and some 
chopped parsley. Dress the bonito, lift off its skin and pour the sauce over. 


(1123), BOUILLABAISSE MARENGO (Bouillabaisse & la Marengo), 


Procure several fishes of medium size, and firm meats, such as sheepshead, blackfish and 
bass, and two small live lobsters; all these fish must be of the very freshest. Out off the fins and 
projecting bones from the fish, suppress the heads and thin tail ends, then cut them into pieces 
about two inches in size; break off the lobster tails after killing them in boiling water, then 
place all these pieces of fish in a tureen to salt, laying a piece of ice on top. Finish cooking the 
two lobster bodies in the same water, drain and split open; remove all the creamy parts, rub 
them through a sieve, and chop up the remaining parts of the bodies. Have a sauce-pan con- 
taining a little oil, fry in it a mirepoix (No. 419), and minced onions, add two cloves of garlic, a 
bunch of parsley, aromatic herbs, peelings of fresh mushrooms, the two chopped bodies, the heads 
end trimmings of all the fish, also a few cut upsmall bony fishes. Moisten to their heighth with hot 
‘ish broth (No. 195); cook for fifteen to twenty minutes on a good fire, letting the liquid reduce to 
one third; strain and remove the fat. Line the bottom of a deep sautoir with two cut up seedless 
comatoes, onions, and shallots; range the pieces of fish and lobster on top, one beside the other, 





FISH. 433 


and moisten to their heighth with the prepared stock; it should just be sufficient to cover, otherwise 
reduce it. Cook the fish in this for fifteen to eighteen minutes over a brisk fire, then remove the 
pan on one side, and strain a part of the liquid into another saucepan; thicken this with a few 
spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), and when succulent and thick, take it off, pour in some 
burnt brandy, and the creamy parts of lobster, adding a dash of cayenne pepper; finish it 
with butter. Dress the pieces of fish in a pyramid form, surround this with a crown of thin 
crusts of kitchen bread browned nicely in butter, and cover the fish and crusts with some of 
the sauce, serving the surplus in a bowl. 


(1124), PARISIAN BOUILLABAISSE (Bouillabaisse 4 la Parisienne), 


For eight persons this dish requires ten pounds of fish such as bass, angel fish groupper or 
any other fish having firm flesh, the tail of a small lobster and a few large crawfish; all this fish 
must be of a superior quality and of the very freshest. Suppress the heads and thin tail ends from 
all the fish after cleaning well, and with the bones, head and parings prepare a good broth. Cut 
the bodies of the largest ones into steaks or squares; chop up a white onions, anda piece of the white 
of leek; with these bestrew the bottom of a saucepan wider than its heighth, add two small seeded. 
and chopped tomatoes, two cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, a bit of saffron, the pulp of a peeled and. 
seeded lemon, two small peppers, a bunch of parsley and salt; in case no fresh tomatoes are on 
hand, use a tomato purée (No. 780), but not a sauce; lay in the pieces of fish with two gills of good. 
olive oil, and three gills of white wine, then cover with the prepared broth, after straining and 
skimming it. Set the saucepan on a hot fire, boil the liquid rapidly for fifteen to eighteen 
minutes—the fish should by this time be thoroughly cooked and the broth succulent and _ slightly 
thickened by the reduction; season to taste, and finish with a pinch of chopped parsley, and a 


_ small piece of grated garlic. Have a deep dish, lay in it fifteen slices of plain, white bread three- 


quarters of an inch thick and slightly buttered; sprinkle them with a portion of the broth, turn 
them over and pour on the remainder. Dress the pieces of fish on another dish with a little 
of the broth; suppress the parsley, garlic and bay leaf, and send the two dishes to the table at the 
same time. 


(1125), BUFFALO FISH A LA BAVAROISE (Buffalo Fish & la Bavaroise), 


Scale and. dress two Buffalo fish; raise the fillets without removing the skin; season and dip 
them in flour. Melt some butter in a pan pouring off the top while hot, put the fish into the 
pan, and fry very slowly, turning the pieces over when done; drain and dress them on a dish; 
put some melted butter into that already in the pan, cook it to hazelnut butter (No. 567) and take it 
from the hot fire; pour in a spoonful of cooked vinegar and a pinch of chopped parsley and chives, 
pour this butter over the fried fillets and serve. 


(1126), BUFFALO FISH, CREAM SAUCE (Buffalo Fish & la Créme). 


Cut off the head and thin parts of the tails from three Buffalo fish; scale, drain, suppress the 
gills, wash and dry, raise the fillets and lay them ina buttered sautoir, moistening with a white 
wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), and let cook for fifteen to twenty minutes; drain off the fish and 
strain the stock. Prepare a good béchamel with cream (No. 411) and add to it a part of the 
strained fish broth; strain the whole and put it on to reduce, incorporating gradually into it some 
mushroom broth and fresh cream. Pour this sauce over the fish fillets and let them simmer 
in it for fifteen minutes on a very slow fire. Dress the fish and pour over a cream sauce (No. 454). 


(1127), BUTTER-FISH, MARINATED AND FRIED (Butter-fish Marinés et Frits), 


Make an incision an eighth of an inch in depth on both sides of the fillets, lay them ona disk 
and let marinate in salt, pepper, lemon juice and oil. Two hours later, drain them off, roll in flour 


and fry firm to a fine golden color. 


ABA THE EPICUREAN. 


(1128), CARP (Carpe). 
Common Carp is a fresh water fish of the family of the ‘‘ gymnopones.” It is used on our tables, 
its meat being considered a most excellent food. 





Fie. 286. 


German Carp.—A species of carp partially bare, the back and belly being the only parts 
covered with two or three rows of golden scales, half as large again as the common Carp. 





Fia. 287. 


Salmon Carp.—A common carp, the meats having acquired through local circumstances a 
reddish tint and a taste analogous to the salmon. 


(1129), OARP A LA CHAMBORD—OOMMON CARP (Carpe & la Chambord—Carpe Ordinaire), 

Procure common carp; scale it by slipping the blade of a knife between the scales and the skin, 
empty it out, cut off the gills, wash and wipe dry. Remove the skin from one side of the fish so 
that the meat is exposed, and stud this side with truffles; fill the inside with a fish quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 90), into which has been mixed a quarter as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385); cover with thin 
slices of fat pork. Braise the carp in a white wine court bouillon (No. 39). Instead of studding the carp 
on one side, after it is cooked, the whole body may be covered with a light layer of the forcemeat 
then brushed over twice with egg-yolks, allow to dry and imitate fish scales, using for this the tip 
of a soupspoon; beginning at the head. Cover over with thin slices of fat pork and in either case 
lay the carp in a fish kettle moistening it to half its heighth with a white wine mirepoix stock 
(No. 419), adding more moistening as fast as it evaporates; when the fish is done let it acquire a 
good color, then dress with the garnishings around in clusters, composed of mushroom heads, glazed 
truffles, trussed and glazed crawfish tails, smelt quenelles decorated with truffles and milts a la 
villeroi (No. 698), with the third part of a genevoise sauce (No. 469), to which the broth has been 


added and the whole reduced; pour over the mushrooms and send the remainder to the table in a 
sauce-boat. 


(1180). CARP BREADED AND BROILED, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Garpe Panée et Grillée, Maitre 
d’Hotel), 

After the carp is prepared and split in two lengthwise, remove the spinal bone, season with salt 
and dip the fish first in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil it over a slow fire; when 
finished bring the two halves together; dress it as if it were whole. Surround with potato balls 
sautéd in butter, seasoned with salt, fine herbs and lemon juice well stirred in. 


| (1131), CARP FRIED, GARNISHED WITH PARSLEY (Carpe Frite Garnie de Persil), 
Scale one or several carps; cut off the gills and remove the entrails, then split them in two 
lengthwise through the belly without separating the parts; take out the spinal bone and the one 
found in the head. (Soak the milts for a few minutes in milk, drain, salt, roll in flour and fry.) 
ET) the carp until it becomes firm and of a fine golden color, then drain and range it on a 
folded napkin, lay on top a bunch of fried parsley and surround with the fried milts and lemons 


1 : re - 
Cut in Lour. 


= 


FISH. 435 


(1132) GERMAN CARP WITH SAUERKRAUT (Carpe Miroir & la Choucrofite), 


Select a German carp of medium size, cleanse it well, wipe dry, tie down the head and lay the 
fish ina deep and narrow baking pan covered with fragments of fat pork, roots and sliced onions 
bay leaf, branches of parsley and basil. Moisten with half broth (No. 194a) and half white wine, 
seasoning with salt, cloves and whole peppers; cover over with a heavy sheet of buttered paper, then 
let it boil and finish cooking it in a moderate oven, basting frequently. When done, dress the fish on 
a thick layer of cooked sauerkraut (No. 2819), and surround with small, round, one inch in 
diameter lobster croquettes breaded and fried (No. 880). Strain and skim the fat from the gravy, 
thicken it with a few pieces of kneaded butter (No. 579), pass it again through a tammy and serve it 
in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1133), CARP STUFFED A LA CHAMPENOISE—SALMON (Carpe Saumonée Farcie & 1a Champenoise), 


Scale and clean two carps each of two pounds; prepare a pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), add- 
ing to it a quarter as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Stuff both the fish with this forcemeat and 
wrap them up separately in slices of fat pork, orin buttered paper, braise them in a mirepoix (No. 419); 
moisten with white wine and broth, and when the fish is cooked, strain, and skim the fat from 
the gravy, then reduce it with an equal quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Boil it on one side 
only, despumating well; add some champagne wine, and reduce once more. Just when ready 
to serve, dress a garnishing around the fish, composed of mushrooms, quenelles, and small onions; 
cover over with a part of the sauce, and send the rest to the table in a separate sauce-boat, arrang- 
ing around the edge of the dish trussed crawfish, and fried carps’ milts. 


(1134), CISCO, CASTILLANE SAUCE (Cisco & la Sauce Castillane), 


Raise the fillets from both sides of the cisco, remove the skin, and place the fillets when well 
pared into a bowl or dish,: seasoning with salt, pepper, sweet oil, lemon juice, sliced onions, 
and branches of parsley; let marinate in this for two hours, turning them over occasionally; 
drain them from the marinade leaving in the vegetables, and dip the fillets into beaten egg, then 
into bread-crumbs; plunge them in hot frying fat, and fry to a fine color, drain, salt, and dress 
them on a folded napkin, garnishing with fried parsley. Serve a castillane sauce (No. 443) ina 
separate sauce-boat 


(1135), CODFISH (Morue ou Cabillaud), 


The cod is a species of sea fish of the Gadus family, caught principally on the banks of New 
foundland. Salt or dry codfish keeps a very long time without deterjorating. 





The meat is not the only part used for the table, as the tongue either fresh or salted, is con: 
sidered a very delicate morsel. 


(1136), FRESH CODFISH, A LA DUXELLE, BAKED (Morue Fraiche ou Cabillaud 41a Duxelle au 
Gratin), 

Fill the empty gill holes and the inside of the belly with a pike forcemeat (No. 90), into which 
has been mixed a quarter of the same quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season the fish with 
salt, pepper, and chopped up shallots, and moisten lightly with Madeira wine; cover over with an 
espagnole sauce (No. 414), dredge bread-raspings on top, and pour melted butter over all, then place 
the fish in a moderate oven to brown, and ccok for about forty-five minutes according to its size, 
When the fish is thoroughly done, squeeze over the juice of a lemon, and bestrew the surface with 
chopped parsley. 


436 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1137), FRESH CODFISH, NORWEGIAN STYLE (Morue Fraiche & la Norvégienne), 


Raise the fillets from a very fresh codfish; cut and pare them into half heart-shaped pieces, season . 


with salt, pepper, parsley, lemon juice, and chopped shallots. Lay them in a straight row On & 
baking dish with their seasoning, sprinkle liberally with bread-crumbs, and on top a little parmesan 
cheese, pour over melted butter, and cook the fish in a hot oven. Serve a separate sauce-boat of 
white wine sauce (No. 445), thickened with egg-yolks, and cream, and finished with a little nutmeg. 


1138). FRESH CODFISH, BROILED WITH BACON OR HAM (Morue Fraiche Grillée au Petit 
Salé ou Jambon). 


Cut the codfish into transversal slices; season each with salt and pepper, and saturate with oil, 
then broil them over a slow fire; dress the pieces on a very hot dish, garnish around with thin 
slices of broiled ham or bacon, and sprinkle over butter mixed with fine herbs, lemon juice, capers, 
and finely chopped pickled gherkins. 


(1139), FRESH GOD'S HEAD, EGG SAUCE (Téte de Morue Fraiche Sauce aux Gufs), 


After cleaning, washing, and tying the head of a codfish weighing about ten pounds, place it 
in a fish kettle, and cover with salted water; add parsley branches, sliced onions, whole peppers 
and vinegar, boil and leave it on the side of the fire for half an hour, keeping it near the boiling 
point. When the fish is done, dress it on a long dish covered with a napkin, and garnish the 
ends with parsley leaves, laying boiled potatoes pared olive-shaped on each side. Serve a separate 
sauceboat of egg sauce (No. 462). ; 


(1140), FRESH CODFISH, SLICES A LA HOLLANDAISE (Morue Fraiche Tranches & la Hollandaise.) 


Have some slices of codfish, cook them. by throwing over them some very salty boiling water 
aud keeping it near the boiling point for half an hour; when done, drain and dress in the center 





Fic. 289. Fig. 290. 


of a dish over a folded napkin, surrounding the fish with branches of parsley. Serve separately 
small three-quarters of an inch in diameter balls of potatoes, cooked in salted water, drained 
and laid in a vegetable dish with sufficient melted butter poured over to cover. 


(1141), FRESH GOD'S TONGUES WITH BLACK BUTTER OR CHOPPED SAUCE (Langues de 
Morue Fraiche au Beurre noir ou & la Sauce Hachée), 
Pour two quarts of water into a saucepan, let boil, then add half a pound of carrots, and a 


quarter of a pound of onions, both finely minced, a few sprigs of parsley, and two gills of vinegar. — 


Let the whole boil for fifteen minutes, then throw in the cods’ tongues; cover the saucepan; at 
the first boil remove it from the hot fire to keep the liquid at the same heat, but without boiling 
for fifteen minutes; then remove and drain the tongues, wipe them on a cloth to dry all the moist- 
ure, and dress them on a very hot dish; season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then 
pour over a liberal quantity of black butter passed through a fine sieve; set the dish for a few 


moments in the oven before serving. Instead of black butter a chopped sauce (No. 589) can be 
substituted. 


(1142), SALT OODFISH, SPANISH STYLE (Morue Salée a YEspaguolel 


Out pieces of salt codfish two inches long by one wide; soak them for eighteen hours, changing 
the water three times. Fry in one gill of oil to a golden color, three cloves of garlic, and three 
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions; drain off the oil, and add two bay leaves, thyme, whole pepper, 
two gills of vinegar and one gill of water, also some sweet Spanish peppers, the codfish and half a 
bottle of white wine; have this remain near the boiling point until thoroughly cooked, pass the 
stock through a sieve, put it back with the codfish, season to taste with nutmeg and pepper, then 
thicken with bread-crumbs soaked in water and well pressed out. Have prepared small stuffed 
tomatoes and round, hollow crofitons of bread fried in oil; dress the fish in the center of a dish, 
and surround with the tomatoes placed on top of the crofitons. 





FISH. 437 


(1143), SALT CODFISH LYONNESE STYLE (Morue Salée & la Lyonnaise)), 


Put two pounds of codfish to soak for eighteen hours after paring well the surface; change the 
water every six hours, then place the fish in a saucepanful of cold water, bring to boiling point 
and set it on one side of the range to let bubble only without boiling for half an hour, then drain it 
off. Mince finely half a pound of white onions; fry them slowly in four ounces of butter and half 
a gill of olive oil on a very slack fire so that the onions cook while acquiring a golden color; 
add to it the well drained and shredded fish removing all the bones and skin, toss the whole for ten 
minutes over a brisk fire, adding at the last moment a pinch of pepper, and a crushed and chopped 
clove of garlic, also a spoonful of mustard and a dash of vinegar. Dress and surround with boiled 
potatoes cut in slices and fried in butter. 


(1144), SALT CODFISH A LA VILLAGEOISE—BAKED (Morue Salée au Gratin a la Villageoise), 


Cut and pare the codfish into two inch square pieces, soak them for eighteen hours, then lay 
them in a saucepan and cover with enough water to bathe them; heat the liquid without boiling 
and keep it in this state for half an hour, drain and remove the skin and bones from the fish, shred 
it well and set it in a saucepan to pound with a wooden spoon, and when mashed to a paste dilute 
with a few spoonfuls of béchamel (No. 409), reduced and thickened; season to taste; add two 
ounces of butter divided into small parts and the third of its quantity of chopped potatoes; finish 
withcream. Season the preparation nicely, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper, then pour it all 
into a pie dish, smooth the surface and dust over with grated parmesan; sprinkle with melted 
utter and bake in a moderate oven. 


(1145), CODFISH CAKES AND BALLS (Morue Salée en Galettes et en Boulettes), 


Pare well the salt codfish and put it to soak; shred it while raw and set it into a saucepan 
with the same quantity of raw potatoes and sufficient cold water to cover, let boil from twenty- 
five to thirty minutes, or until the potatoes are done, then drain off the water and cover with a 
damp towel, set them in the oven a few moments to dry. Pound the whole in a mortar, adding 
pepper and butter, and when the preparation is reduced to a pulp, form it into two-inch diameter 
eakes, roll them in flour and flatten to ‘three-quarters of an inch in thickness, fry these in clarified 
butter, dress on napkins or else on a very hot dish. 


For the Codfish Balls use the same preparation, making balls of it one inch in diameter; 
‘dip in milk, roll in flour, fry them in very hot fat. 


(1146), BRANDADE OF SALT COD (Brandade de Morue Salée). 


Soak salt codfish for fourteen hours, changing the water several times, put it on to cook in cold 
water, set it on one side at the first boil and let it bubble for twenty-five minutes, then shred half 
a pound of this fish. Fry in oil two tablepoonfuls of chopped onion and one clove of garlic, let 
attain a good golden color, then put in the codfish to warm; pound and convert it into a paste, 
working it well with a whip, and then incorporate into it slowly one pint of oil, a little well thick- 
encd béchamel (No. 409), some double raw cream, pepper, nutmeg, salt if found necessary, and 
chopped. parsley; dress it pyramid form and garnish around with oyster patties (No. 939), oysters 
a la villeroi (No. 698) and trussed crawfish. Serve separately a hot béarnaise mayonnaise sauce 
(No. 488). 


(1147), SALT CODFISH, FARADAY CROWNS (Morue Salée, Couronnes a la Faraday), 


Soak some salt codfish cut in two inch squares and well pared, for twelve hours; six hours in 
cold water, and six in tepid water; change this and put the fish into a saucepan containing fresh 
cold water. Let the liquid reach boiling point, then set it on one side of the range without allow- 
ing it to boil for twenty-five minutes; take out the codfish, refresh and suppress the Beh shred and 
return it to a saucepan with an equal amount of potatoes prepared for duchess (No. 2785), and 
mixed with béchamel sauce (No. 409) until reduced and consistent, then add a pinch of cayenne 
pepper. Divide this preparation into parts the size of an egg, roll them into balls on a floured 
table, and mold in Savarin crown-shaped molds; unmold and draw them out to an ov al form and 
fill the insides with a little of the same preparation, so as to fill up half the eripty space, then fry 
in clarified butter. Serve with a poached egg inthe center of each. Broil some thin slices of 
bacon, cut them into inch and a half lengths and with these surround the crowns. 


438 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1148), PICKED UP CODFISH WITH CREAM (Morue Salée a la Créme). 


Shred the codfish while raw, suppressing all skin and bone; wash it several times in cold 
water until properly unsalted, then blanch in an abundance of water; drain, and put the fish into. 
a sautoir covering it with cream and let boil until sufficiently reduced thicken with some béchamel. 
(No. 409); season with prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg. It can either be thickened. 
with the béchamel or else reduce the cream until of a correct consistency. Serve in a deep dish. 


(1149), BELS A LA MARECHALE (Anguilles & la Maréchale). 


Skin an eel as described in No. 57, suppress the second blueish skin by first laying the eel 
over a bright charcoal fire, then hold the head in one hand in a cloth, and with another cloth in 
the other hand, pull off the skin all at once; shave the spinal bone and ventrals with a very keen 









































Fie. 291. 


knife, contrary ways from the bone. Empty out the insides and the blood adhering to the spinak 
bone, an@ cut the fish up into three inch lengths; braise in a mirepoix, and white wine stock (No. 
419), and fish stock (No. 195). When the fish is cooked, drain, and lay it on a dish, pouring 
the strained stock over; let get cold, then drain off the pieces, and bread them English style (No. 
13), and broil over a slow fire. Add toa supréme sauce (No. 547), reduced with the above stock, 
some minced truffles, olive shaped quenelles, and small shrimps; serve the eels on a hot dish, and 
the garnishing separate. 


(1150), EELS, BROILED OR FRIED, TARTAR SAUCE (Anguilles Grillées ou Frites, Sauce Tartare), 


Cut slices of eel three inches long, and cook them in white wine mirepoix (No. 419), and fish 
stock (No. 195). When done, range the pieces in a tureen, and pour their stock over, strained. 
through a sieve; let them cool off, then drain and dip each piece in melted butter, roll {hem in 
bread-crumbs, and broil over a slow fire; dress them on a hot dish, or else bread the eels by 
dipping in eggs and rolling in bread-crumbs, smooth this nicely, and fry in plenty of hot fat; 
drain, dress on a folded napkin, and decorate the top with fried parsley; serve separately a plain 
tartar sauce (No. 6381). 


(1151), EELS, FRIED WITH BUTTER AND FINE HERBS (Anguilles Frites au Beurre et aux 
Fines Herbs), } 
Having cleaned some small eels, season with salt and pepper; roll them in flour, and fry 
slowly in butter; when done, dress and pour over the butter in which they were cooked. Bestrew 
over with finely cut-up chives and chopped parsley, squeeze over the juice of a lemon, and sur- 
round with a border of very thin slices of lemon, laying a bunch of parsley on top. 


(1152), FLOUNDERS (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes), 


A fish of the genus Platessa, allied to the halibut. Both eyes are on the side of the head, cor- 
responding to the dorsal sides of the fish; its body is covered with small, almost imperceptible 
scales; its meat is very delicate and delicious if they be caught on a sandy bottom. 


(1153), FLOUNDERS A LA DIEPPOISE (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes & la Dieppoise), 
Season and fold in two the fillets removed from the flounders; place them ina buttered sautoir, 
laying on each one a small piece of butter; garnish the pointed ones with a crawfish claw, removing 
the small claw tip, and put them to cook in a slack oven, basting frequently until done. Squeeze 


FISH. 439 


the juice of a lemon into a buttered allemande sauce (No. 407); range the fish crown-shaped on a. 
dish and fill up the middle either with oysters or mussels after cutting off the feet, also small. 
channeled mushroom heads (No. 118); strain the sauce and pour it over the whole. 


(1154), FLOUNDERS A LA GENLIS (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes a la Genlis,) 


Remove the fillets from the flounders; pare them neatly, season and cover one side (the skin side): 
with fish forcemeat (No. 76), fold them in two. Butter a baking dish, throw chopped mushrooms 
on the bottom and besprinkle with a few spoonfuls of white wine; lay the fillets on top and on each. 
one a small piece of butter and a little fish stock (No. 195). Set the dish into a slack oven and. 
when cooked, remove and drain off the liquid; strain and reduce it with a béchamel sauce (No.. 
409), cover the fillets with this, dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, pour over a little 
melted butter and brown in a hot oven. 


(1155), FLOUNDERS A LA JOINVILLE (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes & la Joinville), 


“Remove the fillets and the skin on one side; flatten with the handle of a knife and season; cover 
this side with a fish forcemeat (No. 76) with raw fine herbs, and fold in two; pare and range in 
a buttered sautoir and stick into each tip a crawfish claw without the smallest end claw; pour’ 
over some white wine and a small bit of butter on the top of each fillet; cook in a slack oven, being 
careful to baste several times while cooking, and as soon as the fish is done, drain them off, dress in a 
circle and reduce the liquid, adding to it an allemande sauce (No. 407), thickened with shrimp butter 
(No. 586). Fill the center of the circle made of the fish with a salpicon of shrimp tails and truffles 
cut in dice; cover the whole (except the crawfish claws) with the sauce and garnish each claw with 
a paper frill, then serve. 


(1156), FLOUNDERS A LA JULES JANIN (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes & la Jules Janin), 


Remove the fillets from the flounders, from these remove the black skin, season, cover with a 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), pare, and fold them in two; lay these fillets on a buttered dish, 
moisten with white wine, pour over some butter, and set the dish in the oven. When they are done 
drain them into a sautoir, straining the liquid; reduce this with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and 
Madeira; garnish the fish ranged in a circle with oysters, sliced truffles, and crawfish tails. Butter: 
the sauce, pass it through a tammy, and pour it over the whole. 


(1157), FLOUNDERS A LA MADELEINE (Plies Carrelets ou Limandes & la Madeleine), 


Remove the fillets and skin from the fish; season and cover the side the skin was taken from;. 
with a fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mixed in it; roll them up 
cork-shaped, and set them in buttered tin paupiette rings; place these on sheets of buttered paper, 
then in a sautoir, moisten with mirepoix stock (No: 419), and cook in the oven until properly done, 
then unmold and dip each one in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs; fry a fine color and dress on 
napkins with a bunch of fried parsley on top. The sauce to accompany these is made with one 
shallot, a medium sized onion, as much celery root and carrots, all cut up into three-sixteenth inch 
squares; blanch the carrots and celery in salted water, then set them into a little white broth to 
let fall to a glaze; fry lightly the shallots and onions, add to them the carrots and celery, and 
moisten with broth, throw in a little sugar, then cookin such a way that the vegetables are done 
when the liquid is entirely reduced. Moisten again with cream, reduce once more, thicken with 
egg-yolks and fresh butter, add a little powdered sweet pepper, and serve. 


(1158), FLOUNDERS, PROVEN(AL STYLE (Plies Oarrelets ou Limandes 4 la Provengale’. 


First lift off the fillets from the flounders, and season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
beat to flatten with the handle of a knife, then fold in two; trim the pointed edge of each with a 
crawfish claw, after removing the movable small end attached to it: range the fillets in a buttered 
sautoir, moisten with mushroom liquor and white wine, seasoning with salt and pepper; cover 
over with buttered paper, and leave to cook. Reduce some provengale sauce (No. 529), prepareé 
with velouté sauce (No. 415) and the fish stock, and when well reduced incorporate in a smalf 
piece of maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581). Dress the fillets either in a circle ora straight row, and 
cover over with a part of the prepared sauce. Decorate every one of the claws with a fancy 
frill, and serve with the remainder of the sauce separately. The fish can be surrounded by sinal)~ 


stuffed halved tomatoes (No. 2835). 


440 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1159), FROSTFISH OR WHITING, CHERBOURG STYLE (Tacaud ou Merlan & la Mode de Cherbourg). 


Have a medium sized frostfish or whiting; butter a sautoir, sprinkle it over with chopped 
up mushrooms, and lay the fish on top with parsley, thyme, and bay leaf; moisten with oyster 
liquor, cover and boil; when the fish is cooked drain off the stock and reduce. Dress the fish in 
the center of a hot dish and when the stock is reduced to half, thicken it with kneaded butter 
(No. 579); strain through a tammy, and surround the fish with blanched oysters, pouring the 
sauce over all. Put in the oven for a few minutes; when ready to serve, sprinkle over chopped 


parsley. 


(1160), FROSTFISH OR WHITING, FRIED (Tacaud ou Merlan Frit), 


Make a slight incision on each side of the fish; season with salt and roll them briskly in flour; 
plunge them in small quantities into hot frying fat and let acquire a color while cooking. Thesmaller 
the fish, the hotter the fat must be. When fried, salt and dress them at once. ll fried articles 
should be served very hot, and garnished with fried parsley or simply sliced lemon. The smaller 
fish such as gudgeons, etc., are dipped in milk and flour, then fried on a hot fire; dress them in 
pyramid form on a napkin with fried parsley on top and quartered lemon around. 


(1161), FROST FISH OR WHITING BAKED (Tacaud ou Merlan Gratiné), 


Make incisions on both sides of the fish and season. Butter the bottom of a baking dish, 
sprinkle over with finely chopped onions and mushrooms, and on this bottom range the fish, press- 
ing them down all on the same side; cover over with more chopped onions and mushrooms and 
besprinkle with bread-crumbs, pour over melted butter and cook in a moderate oven, basting them 
at times. Take out the dish, puta gill of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with white wine 
into the bottom, return to the oven to cook for ten minutes longer, when ready to serve squeeze 
over the juice of a lemon, bestrew chopped parsley over the top and serve in the same dish they 
were cooked in. 


(1162). GROUPER A LA FRANKLYN (Grouper a la. Franklyn), 


A fish of the perch family of the genus Serranus. Raise the two fillets of the fish on each 
side of the main bone, remove the skin; cut the meat up into bias half inch slices, paring them 
oval shaped; put into a vessel to season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, sliced onions, lemon 
juice and oil; one hour after range these escalops in a sautoir with their marinade; moisten with 
broth and mushroom liquor and allow the whole to cook slowly. When done strain the stock and 
reduce half of it with a lean financiére sauce (No. 464). When ready to serve incorporate into it a 
piece of fresh butter, reduce the rest of the stock to a glaze, glaze the dressed escalops, using a 
brush for the purpose after adding to it some lobster coral butter (No. 580), pour a little of the 
sauce around the fish and serve the rest of it separately. 


(1163). GUDGEONS OR WHITEBAIT FRIED IN BUTTER (Goujons ou Blanchaille Frits au 
Beurre), 


After having cleaned, prepared, and salted the fish, roll them in flour; set them in a coarse 
sieve and sift off rapidly the superfluous flour, then plunge them into hot frying lard. Melt clari- 
fied butter in a pan, when hot lay in the gudgeons that are nearly finished frying, or any other 
small fish; toss them about, adding small bits of butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley; dress 
‘on a hot dish, and pour the hot butter over. 


(1164), HADDOCK, ANCIENT STYLE (Aiglefin & l'Ancienne), 


Cut the fish across in sufficiently thick slices to part each joint of the spinal bone; cook them 
in boiling, salted water, to which has been added branches of parsley, sliced onions, and vinegar; 
when the fish is done, drain, and remove the bones and skin, and lay the slices on a buttered 
dish, cover over with velouté sauce (No. 415) containing cooked fine herbs (No. 385); besprinkle with 
bread-crumbs, and grated parmesan, and brown the surface nicely in the oven. Serve a velouté 
sauce separately having it well buttered. 


FISH. 441 


(1165). HADDOCK, HOLLAND STYLE ‘Aiglefin & la Mode de Hollande), 


Cut slices from a haddock of a sufficient thickness to strike each joint of the spinal bone; 
put these into a glazed vessel for twenty-four hours with some fine salt; two hours before serving 
lay them in a fish kettle and pour over boiling water; keep it on the side of the range at a boiling 
degree until thoroughly cooked; dress, and garnish around with branches of parsley, and boiled 
potatoes; serve separately some melted butter. 


(1166), FINNAN HADDIES, BROILED MAITRE D'HOTEL AND BAKED WITH CREAM (Aigle- 
| fin Fumé Grillé, Maitre d’Hotel et 41a Créme au Gratin), 


Finnan haddies is haddock slightly salted and smoked; brush it over with oil; broil on a slow 
fire; dress and pour over a maitre d’hdétel butter (No. 581). 


Baked with Cream.—Put in a saucepan a little cream to which add a piece of butter kneaded 
with a little fecula, add a bay leaf, some thyme, basil, mignonette and pepper. Boil, add the 
haddock and let cook, when done, strain the sauce, add chopped parsley and shredded chives, put 
the finnan haddies in a buttered dish, cover with the sauce, bestrew with bread-crumbs, sprinkle . 
with butter and bake; serve as soon as it is a fine color. 


(1167), HALIBUT, ADMIRAL (Flétan ou Holibut a |’Amiral), 


Trim a chicken halibut weighing about six pounds, split the fish through the dark side, 
detach the fillets and season the inside; lay it on a buttered baking pan, the white side uppermost; 
moisten with court bouillon stock with white wine (No. 39), and cover over with several sheets 





of buttered paper; cook the fish in a slow oven, drain the stock and reduce it to a half-glaze adding 
double its quantity of reduced velouté sauce (No. 415); just when ready to serve incorporate 
lobster butter (No. 580) into this sauce. Dress the halibut and garnish around with crawfish 
tails, mushroom heads and fanciful cuts of gherkins; cover over all with a third part of the 
sauve and arrange another garnishing around the border of the dish either of mussels or oysters 
Ala villeroi (No. 698). Serve the remainder of the sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1168). HALIBUT A LA OOLIGNY (Flétan & 1a Coligny). 


Have a young halibut weighing two to four pounds; detach the meat from the bones on each 
side by making a gash in the center and on the whole length of the dark side of the fish; break the 
dorsal bone at a quarter of its length on the head side and proceed the same on the tail side, so as to 
be able to remove half of the bone when the fish is fried. Marinate it in a dish for two hours with 
salt, pepper, oil, lemon juice, thyme and bay leaf, then roll it in flour, beaten eggs and bread- 
crumbs; fry the fish in an oval pan with frying fat, not too hot, increasing the degree of heat as 
fast as it cooks; when done and of a fine color, drain and wipe; take out the middle bone the same 
as for soles a la Colbert (No. 1271), and fill the interior with lobster coral butter (No. 580). Garnish 
both ends with fried parsley and cut lemons as explained in No. 113, and serve at the same time, 
but separately, a dish of dressed cucumbers (No. 2661). 


442 THE EPICURDAN, 


(1169), HALIBUT A LA RICHMOND (Flétan & la Richmond), 


Butter the inside of a dish that can be placed in the oven, lay on it the halibut fillets after 
suppressing the skin, but leaving the fillets whole; season with salt, pepper and onions and place small 
pieces of butter on top; let cook in the oven for twenty to thirty minutes, basting frequently, then 
drain off the liquid and reduce with an equal quantity of velouté sauce (No. 415), thickening it at 
the last moment with lobster butter (No. 580); garnish around the fish with shelled shrimp tails and 
cover over with half of the sauce, serving the remainder in a separate sauce-boat. Range neatly on 
top sliced truffles warmed in Madeira wine and fish glaze (No. 399). 


(1170). HALIBUT KADGIORI (Flétan Kadgiori), 


Fry in butter, one ounce of chopped onions with half a pound of rice; heat together and moisten 
with fish stock (No. 195) to three times its heighth, then cook for twenty minutes; afterward pour it 
into a plain border mold (Fig. 139) rounded on the top. Cut a young chicken halibut into five- 
eighths of an inch square pieces, having about two pounds in all; fry these in butter in a frying pan 
with salt and cayenne pepper, add to it three chopped up hard boiled eggs, a pint of velouté sauce: 
(No. 415), and two ounces of butter; mix well, and dress this fish inside the unmolded rice border, 
besprinkling the rice with hazelnut butter (No. 567). 


(1171). HALIBUT, WITH FINE HERBS A LA REYNAL (Flétan aux Fines Herbes & la Reynal), 


Dress a halibut by cutting off the fins and scraping the scales from the dark side; split it 
lengthwise in two on this side, and lay the fish on a small oval baking-pan with raised edges or on 
oval silver dishes; moisten it to its heighth with wine court bouillon (No. 39), and cover over with 
buttered paper; let the liquid boil for ten to twelve minutes, then remove from the hot fire and 
put it in the oven for thirty minutes longer; drain the fish, and let it dry thoroughly; dress it 
on a dish, keeping it hot, covered over with another plate. Strain and skim the liquid; reduce 
half of it to a half-glaze. Fry in butter two chopped shallots, and four ounces of mushrooms. 
also chopped, thicken with two spoonfuls of velouté sauce (No. 415); dilute this sauce with the 
reduced liquid, and let cook for five minutes, then set it on one side to cook slowly, finish with 
butter, adding chopped parsley, and lemon juice. Wipe off all the humidity from the halibut, and 
cover it with the sauce; lay on top of the fish a straight row of very white cooked mushrooms. 


(1172), CHICKEN HALIBUT BAKED AND WITH PARMESAN (Jeune Flétan au Gratin et au 
Parmesan), 


Boil some slices of halibut in a court bouillon (No. 38); lay in a baking dish a border of potato. 
croquette preparation (No.2782), either hard and shaped with the hand and channeled, or else soft 
and pushed through a pocket. Have a layer of béchamel (No. 409) on the bottom of the dish, then 
one of the shredded fish, another layer of béchamel, and one more of the fish, finishing with the 


bechamel; sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and grated parmesan, pour over a little butter, and 
brown in a hot oven. 


With Parmesan.—Prepare the same and make a solid paste by mixing together butter and 
parmesan cheese with a pinch of cayenne pepper, work it well and roll it out to an eighth of an 
inch in thickness; cover the last layer of béchamel with this, and brown nicely in the hot oven. 


(1173), CHICKEN HALIBUT WITH CARROT SAUCE (Jeune Flétan & la sauce aux Oarottes), 


Cut a well-cleaned eight pound chicken halibut in two lengthwise, and cut each part 
up into eight ounce pieces; place them in cold water for half an hour, drain and cook in water 
containing a quarter of the same quantity of milk; season with salt, and remove it from the hot 
fire at the first boil, leaving it to simmer without boiling, for fifteen minutes. Dress on a 
folded napkin and surround with very green parsley leaves. Serve at the same time a separate 


see of béchamel sauce (No. 409), mixing in with it grated red carrot previously cooked in 
utter. 


(1174), HERRINGS, FRESH, A LA CALAISIENNE (Harengs Frais 4 la Calaisienne), 


: A sea fish of the genus Clupea. Split as many herrings as needed through the entire back, 
and take out the middle bone. Stir into some fresh butter, salt, parsley, chopped up mushrooms, 
and lemon juice; stuff all the herrings with this butter, and lay the milts with the eggs already 


‘ried in the center; close up the herrings, and wrap them in a double sheet of paper; broil them 
over a Slow fire, unwrap and serve very hot. 





ht od ob 443 


(1175), HERRINGS, FRESH, MUSTARD OR THICKENED MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (Harengs 
Frais, Sauce Moutarde ou Maitre d’Hotel Liée), 


Choose very full herrings, clip off the fins, cut incisions on the backs, and lay the fish on a 
dish; season, sprinkle with oil, then range them on a hot broiler, and broil them over a good 
fire, turning them round; eight or ten minutes suffices to cook them. Dress them on a dish, and 
serve a mustard sauce separately, prepared as follows: Put some lean velouté (No. 416) into a 
saucepan, season well, and butter profusely; into this mix a quarter as much common mustard. 
Pour the sauce into a sauce-boat and serve with the herrings, or else serve a thickened maitre 
d’hotel sauce (No. 493). 


(1176), HERRINGS, FRESH, PAUPIETTES WITH MILTS (Harengs Frais, Paupiettes aux Laitances), 


Suppress the skin, head, and thin tail parts of the herrings; open them to remove the main 
back bone, then remove the two fillets and pare them oblong; cover the side the skin was taken from 
with a layer of fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and roll them into 
cork-shaped pieces; range these in buttered tin rings any size that may be convenient, having them 
the shape of a bung; set them on a dish, pour over a little butter and court bouillon (No. 38), 
“and cook in a moderate oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. When done dress them in the center 
of a dish and surround with small cases of milts prepared as follows: Fry a shallot in butter with 
chopped parsley and fresh mushrooms likewise chopped; season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; 
let get cold, then mix in with these the same quantity of fish forcemeat (No. 90). Cover the 
bottom and sides of some previously oiled paper cases stiffened in the oven, fill the centers with 
herring milts, and cover with the remainder of the preparation; on each one place a channeled 
mushroom head (No. 118), and then cook in a slow oven; cover the paupiettes with crawfish butter 
sauce (No. 578), and serve with a sauce-boat of the same. 


(1177). HERRINGS, SALT, WITH MASHED POTATOES (Harengs Salés 4 la Purée de Pommes de 
Terre). 
Soak the herrings in cold water for six hours, changing the water frequently; split them in two 
the whole length of the back, and unsalt them in milk for two hours; drain, wipe dry, and fry 
them in fresh butter; dress on a dish over potatoes mashed with cream (No. 2798). 


(1178), HERRINGS—SMOKED AND SALTED—WITH CREAM (Harengs Fumés 4 la Créme), 


Split the smoked herrings in two the entire length of the back; close them up and lay them in 
a saucepan with half milk and half cream, just sufficient to cover; boil them slowly until thoroughly 
done, then serve on a very hot dish with branches of green parsley around, and send to the table 
with a separate sauce-boat of cold, thick cream. 


(1179), KINGFISH A LA BATELIERE (Kingfish & la Batelitre), 


Cut a half pound kingfish crosswise into two pieces; range them in a low saucepan moistening 
with red wine; season with salt, pepper, cloves, garlic, mushroom parings, and add one gill of 





Fie. 293. 


brandy, pouring it slowly over the other ingredients, set it on the fireand throw in some small onions 


fried and previously blanched; leave them in for ten minutes on a hot fire. Dress the fish and 
garnish the intersections with the small onions, strain the sauce through a tammy, add to it butter, 
and pour it over all; surround with heart-shaped crofitons of bread fried in butter and crawfish. 


Some kingfish weigh as much as three pounds. 


444 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1180), KINGFISH A LA BELLA (Kingfish & la Bella), 


Lift off the fillets of a kingfish; remove the skin and pare the pieces into half hearts; season 
and cover each one with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), decorate the top with a circle made of very 
green halved pistachio nuts, laying channeled mushrooms (No. 118) in the center; dust over the 
remainder of the forcemeat with finely chopped coral. Place the fillets in a buttered sautoir, 
moisten with a little court bouillon, and lay a heavy piece of buttered paper on top; cook themin a 
slow oven, and then dress them with a ravigote sauce (No. 531), sending more of the sauce in a 


separate sauce-boat. 


(1181), KINGFISH A LA BORDELAISE (Kingfish & la Bordelaise), 


Raise the fillets from each side of the large inside bone; remove the skin, pare nicely and season. 
Bestrew a buttered baking dish with chopped up raw shallots, mushrooms and a little garlic; fold 
the fillets over and trim them pointed on one end; lay them in the dish and moisten with wine 
court-bouillon (No. 39), let cook slowly in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, then drain, strain 
off the liquid, skin off the fat and reduce to a half-glaze, incorporating into it two gills of reduced 
velouté sauce (No. 415), and a fewspoonfuls of mushroon broth. Dress the fish either in a straight 
row ora circle and cover with the well-reduced sauce, garnishing around with trussed crawfish pre- 
pared a la Bordelaise (No. 1008). 


(1182), KINGFISH A LA FIGARO (Kingfish & la Figaro), 


Raise the fillets from the fish, remove the skin, pare and cut them lengthwise in two; seeson 
each piece with salt, pepper and lemon juice, let marinate for one hour then dip them in beaten 
eggs, bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. Dress on a napkin and garnish the top with fried 
parsley and around with lemon. Serve separately mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) with tomato purée 
(No. 730) strained through a very fine sieve and thoroughly drained, then add to it very finely cut 
up chervil. 


(1183), KINGFISH A LA MONTGOLFIER (Kingfish & la Montgolfier), 


Have six fine kingfish weighing half a pound each; lift off the fillets, skin, and from two fillets 
cut ten long small slices; make five or six incisions crosswise on them, and fill them in with slices 
of truffles; turn these fillets round into crowns and range them on a buttered baking sheet, cover 
over with a heavy piece of buttered paper, then moisten with a little court bouillon (No. 38). Pare 
the other fillets of kingfish into half hearts after having folded them in two across, macerate with 
salt, pepper and lemon juice for half an hour, drain and lay them in a buttered sautoir garnished 
with chopped mushrooms, shallots and onions; moisten with white wine and mushroom liquor, 
then cook slowly in the oven; drain off the liquid, reduce and incorporate into it two gills of 
velouté sauce (No. 415). Besprinkle the bottom of an oval shaped buttered baking dish with 
chopped truffles, lay the cooked fillets on top, surround them with medium sized fresh mushrooms 
heads previously peeled and cooked in a little water, salt, butter and lemon juice; pour the sauce 
over, bestrew with bread-crumbs, grated parmesan and melted butter and color slightly. Place 
the small prepared truffled slices in the oven and when done use them to garnish the whole fillets, 
ranging between each one a trussed crawfish. 


(1184), KINGFISH A LA PRINOGELAY (Kingfish & la Princelay), 


Pare into ovals some fillets taken from a fish, season with salt and pepper; fry them in oil and 
when done, dress either in a row or in acircle. Fry a little flour in oil without browning, add 
chopped onions, and one bay leaf, moisten with good court bouillon (No. 38) to obtain a rather light 
sauce, reduce it well, pass it through a tammy, throw in small capers and cover the fish with this 
sprinkle. 


(1185). KINGFISH A LA SULTANA (Kingfish a la Sultane), 


Lift off the fillets and remove the skin, pare them to the shape ofa half heart, season with 
salt and cover one side with fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90); range them in a buttered sautoir, the 
pointed end toward the center of the pan. On the round end place a crescent made of the red 
meat found in the lobster claws having it an eighth of an inch in thickness; between the pointed 
end of the fillet and the crescent imitate a rosette with five halved pistachios. Moisten with a 
nttle court bouillon (No. 38), cover over with a buttered paper and place to cook in a slack 

When done, dress them flat in a circle and fill the center with a garnishing com- 





ESS Fi: 445 


posed of trufiles, mushrooms and escalops of lobster mingled with some lean espagnole sauce (No. 
416) made with Madeira, reduced properly and thickened; finish with fresh butter. At the tip of 
each fillet attach a fancy favor frill (No. 10) and serve with a separate sauce-boat of the same sauce. 


(1186), KINGFISH, BAKED (Kingfish au Gratin), 


Select a good fresh kingfish, take off the fillets, suppressing the skin; season with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg, then fold them in two and pare nicely; butter the bottom of a baking dish, bestrew 
it with chopped onions and mushrooms; range the fillets over, laying a fluted mushroom (No. 118). 
on each fillet. Pour over a cold half-glaze sauce (No. 413), pour into the bottom of the dish, three. 
or four tablespoonfuls of white wine; bestrew bread-crumbs over, and sprinkle the surface with a 
brush dipped in melted butter. Set the dish into a moderately heated oven, and let the fillets cook 
for fifteen to eighteen minutes; after removing the dish lay it on another to be sent to the table. 


Another Way.—Butter a baking dish, and place in it the fish folded in two, nicely pared; 
pour over some white wine, lay mushroom heads on top, and mask with a brown sauce (No. 416), into 
which a quarter as much tomato sauce (No. 549) has been mixed. Bestrew the surface with bread 
raspings, pour melted butter over all, and bake and cook in a hot oven; when serving press the 
juice of a lemon on it, and besprinkle with chopped parsley. 


(1187), KINGFISH ON THE DISH—GASTRITE (Kingfish sur le Plat—Gastrite), 


Cut off the fins from well cleaned fish, split them from head to tail on the belly side, in order 
to take out the dorsal bone; season with salt and pepper. Butter the bottom of a small baking. 
dish, cover it over with chopped mushrooms and onions, and lay the open kingfish on top upside 
down, the skin side underneath; pour half a gill of white wine in the bottom of the dish, and be- 
sprinkle the top with gastrite; pour over a little melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven for 
twelve to fifteen minutes. After taking the fish from the fire, slip into the bottom a few spoonfuls. 
of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) finished with lemon juice. 


For the Gastrite.—Take the crumb part of a stale loaf of bread, put it in a towel with a little 
flour, close the towel and work the bread so it will crumble, then pass it through a fine sieve, and 
mix it with a little chopped up parsley and grated parmesan or Swiss cheese. 


(1188), LAFAYETTE FISH, BREADED ENGLISH STYLE (Poisson Lafayette Pané a l’Anglaise), 


Score the fish on both sides on the thick fillets; season with salt and pepper. Melt lightly two. 
ounces of fresh butter, stir into it six raw egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; dip the fish into 
this mixture, then roll it in bread-crumbs, smooth the surface nicely, and fry a fine color in very 
hot clarified butter; drain, wipe and salt the fish, then dress it on a folded napkin and garnish: 
with fried parsley and quartered lemons. 


(1189), LAMPREY A LA RABELAIS (Lamproie & la Rabelais), 


Bleed the lamprey, reserving the blood, and mix it in with a little vinegar; cut the fish intc 
slices, fry them in butter adding chopped onions, salt, sugar, and allspice; dredge over with a 
little four, moisten with white wine, and lay in a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, also small glazed onions; let cook from twelve to fifteen minutes. Dress the lampreys. 
and the small onions, thicken the sauce with the blood and then strain it through a tammy (No. 
159); cover the fish with this sauce, and surround the lampreys with fluted mushroom heads (No 
118) fried in butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and fine herbs; range round the whole very 
thin sliced lemon. 


(1190). FRESH MACKEREL (Maquereau Frais), 


Of the genus Scomber, of the family of Scomberoids. They are distinguished by five small 
fins attached above and below the tail (Spanish mackerel have eight of these), also by an 
elongated head, a largely opened mouth and brilliant coloring. This fish is bare of scales; 
its length attains from fifteen to twenty inches for fresh mackerel, and from fifteen to thirty for 
Spanish mackerel; the meat of the latter is much whiter and firmer than the former. 


446 THE HPICURHAN, 


(1191), FRESH MACKEREL, BONNEFOY—FILLETS (Filets de Maquereau Frais & la Bonnefoy), 


Gut off the head and thin tail part of three or four fresh and clean mackerel; detach the 
fillets, season, roll in flour and cook them in clarified butter, turning them when done over 
on one side. Put into asmall saucepan one gill of melted glaze (No. 399) and four to five spoonfuls of 
thickened tomato sauce (No. 549) and a teaspoonful of chopped shallot cooked in butter; let the sauce 
boil, then remove it toone side to finish with butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Drain the 


fillets, dress them on a dish and cover with the sauce; serve at the same time small potato balls 


plainly cooked in salted water and steamed for five or six minutes. 


(1192) FRESH MACKEREL IN PAPERS, MEPHISTO (Maquereau Frais en Papillotes, Méphisto), 


Split the mackerel lengthwise in two; suppress the middle bone, pare, season with salt, pepper 
and nutmeg, then coat the surface with oil and broil over a slow fire (the milts and roe to be 
cooked apart in the oven). Cut some sheets of paper into long hearts, oil them over and lay on one 
of their sides a little deviled sauce (No. 459), on top range the fish with either the milts or roe and 
cover over with more of the sauce; fold the paper over and twist it well around so as to enclose 
the fish hermetically; range them on the same dish intended for the table, pour over a little oil 
and lay them in a hot oven. When the paper has swollen and is a fine color, place the dish on 
top of another and serve. 


(1193), FRESH MACKEREL, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Maquereau Frais, Maitre d’Hotel), 


Split very fresh and well cleansed mackerel lengthwise through the back; remove the dorsal 
bone, season with salt, and roll in melted butter, or else in oil; broil them for fifteen to twenty 
minutes on a slow fire turning them and brushing over with a brush dippedin butter or oil. Dress 
them ona very hot dish and cover with a layer of maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581). After rolling 
them in melted butter or oil, they may be dipped in bread-crumbs. 


(1194), FRESH MACKEREL, WITH WHITE PIQUANTE SAUCE (Maquereau Frais a la Sauce 
Piquante Blanche), 


Suppress the heads and the thin tail parts of four fresh, well cleansed mackerel; remove the 
skins and pare the meat into half hearts, lay these on a dish, season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay 
leaf, cut up onions, oil and lemon juice, turning them over at intervals. One hour later take the 
pieces from their pickle, dip them in flour and cook in clarified butter; when done and of a fine 
color, drain and dress them either in a straight row or in a circle on a dish and pour around a 
white sharp (piquante) sauce (No. 538). 


(1195), MACKEREL, CREAM HORSERADISH SAUCE—SALT AND SMOKED (Magquereau Salé et 
Fumé Sauce & la Oréme au Raifort), 


Soak salt mackerel for twelve hours, changing the water several times; cook the fish in an 
abundance of water into which has been added a dash of: vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, branches of 
parsley, and sliced onions; remove the saucepan at the first boil, and leave the fish in the water 
without allowing it to boil any more for fifteen minutes; drain, dress the mackerel on a folded 
napkin, and surround with parsley leaves. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of cream sauce 


(No. 454), into which has been incorporated half its quantity of grated horseradish heated in the 
sauce without boiling. 


For Smoked Mackerel.—Instead of boiling the fish, broil it over a slow fire, and serve it on a 
horseradish sauce with cream (No. 478). 


(1196), SPANISH MACKEREL A LA PERIGORD (Maquereau Espagnol a la Périgord). 


Pare the fillets removed from the mackerel into half heart-shapes; lay them in a buttered 
sautoir, decorating the thickest part of each fillet with a rose-shaped ornament of truffles dipped 
in egg-whites. Baste over with melted butter, lemon juice, white wine, and salt; cover with a 
uttered paper, and let cook ina slow oven. Dress the fillets, reduce their liquid, adding velouté 
sauce (No, 415) and shees of truffles fried in butter. Cover the truffles with a third part of this 
sauce, and glaze the fillets with fish glaze (No. 399) combined with lobster coral butter (No. 580). 

‘ve the remainder of the sauce separately. 





4 


FISH. 447 


(1197), SPANISH MAOKEREL A LA VIENNET (Maquereau Espagnol a la Viennet), 


Chop up separately some onions, shallots, and mushrooms; fry the onions and shallots in butter 
then add the chopped mushrooms; lay on top mackerel fillets pared half heart-shaped, season 





Fie. 294. 


with salt, mignonette, and nutmeg; place over a liberal piece of butter, cover with a strong but- 
tered paper, and set the pan in the oven for fifteen minutes, then drain off the butter. and add a 
little white wine, espagnole sauce (No. 414), and tomato sauce (No. 549). Dress the fish, reduce 
the sauce, and when ready pass through a tammy and pour it over the fillets. 


(1198), SPANISH MACKEREL WITH CRAWFISH—FILLETS (Filets de Maquereau Espagnol aux 
Ecrevisses). 


Lift up the fillets from six small and very fresh mackerel, season and cover the surfaces of 
the cut sides with a layer of pike forcemeat (No. 90), and fine herbs finished with a piece of red butter 
(No. 573); flatten the surfaces with the blade of a knife, range them as fast as they are done one 
beside the other on a well buttered baking pan, dredging fine herbs on top; put them to cook in a 
moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes, basting them over with butter; remove and dress them 
on a dish, cover over with a little velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with crawfish broth and 
finished with red butter (No. 573), and lemon-juice. Range a cluster of crawfish tails at each end 
of the dish and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. 


41199), SPANISH MACKEREL WITH GOOSEBERRIES—STUFFED (Maquereau Espagnol Farci 
Garni de Groseilles Vertes). 


Split well-cleaned mackerel down the back; take out the bone just below the head and two inches 
above the tail; season the inside and fill the empty space with a fish forcemeat (No. 76), into which 
has been added some allemande sauce (No. 407), and a third of its quantity of cooked fine herbs, 
give the fish its original shape, roll it tightly in two sheets of paper and tie it at both ends, in the 
center and once again between these, making in all five rows of string; place the fish on a baking 
pan, set it in the oven for twenty to thirty minutes, remove, unwrap and dress, serving with a 
garnishing of gooseberries around the fish. 

For a Gooseberry Garnishing take half a pound of gooseberries; suppress the stalks and ends, 
then blanch them for two minutes in boiling water in an untinned copper vessel or until they 
crush between the fingers, drain and then mix them in a thickened maitre d’hotel sauce (No. 493); 
pour over the fish and garnish. 


(1200), SPANISH MACKEREL WITH GREEN PEAS (Maquereau Espagnol aux Petits Pois), 


Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in two ounces of butter, lay in the mackerel cut up 
into four ounce slices and when well fried, moisten with water, add a garnished bunch of parsley 
and salt and let the fish cook; when ready to serve add cooked peas (No. 2742); finish by thicken- 
ing with a little velouté sauce (No. 415), egg-yolks and butter. Dress the fish, pour the peas over 


and serve. 


(1201), MATELOTE A LA MARINIERE, 8ST, MANDE (Matelote & la Marini’re St, Mandé), 


Gut into four ounce slices, one pound of eels and one pound of carp, salt and marinate for two 
hours, then wash and drain. Put one quart of red wine into a saucepan sufficienty large to contain 
three quarts; add a large bunch of parsley garnished with one bay leaf, as much thyme and one 
clove of garlic, one coffeespoonful of whole allspice, pepper and the necessary salt, one ounce of 
butter and half a pound of mushrooms; let all cook for fifteen minutes, then put in the eels, cook 


448 THE EPICUREAN. 


for ten minutes longer before adding the carp and a pint of small white onions blanched for about 
ten minutes, drained, then fried in butter to a good golden color with a little sugar; thicken the 
whole with kneaded butter (No. 579) and strain through a sieve. Dress the fish, cover it with the 
sauce and garnish around with fried crofitons of bread, some trussed crawfish and fried egg-yolks: 


and milts. 


(1202). MATELOTE A LA TALABASSE (Matelote & la Talabasse), 


Mince two ounces of onions, two ounces of leeks, add two crushed cloves of garlic; fry 
these in some good oil, besprinkle with flour and add half a pound of mackerel, half a 
pound of sheepshead, half a pound of bass and half a pound of blackfish, all cut up in steaks; 
moisten to cover with white wine and water, half of each, salt, pepper, cloves and a garnished 
bunch of parsley; cook on a brisk fire; pound one clove of garlic with a little saffron and two ounces. 
of butter, rub it through a sieve, drain the stock, reduce and thicken it with the garlic butter, 
adding the juice of a lemon and chopped parsley; dress the fish, pour the sauce over and garnish 
around with crawfish and crotitons of bread fried in butter. 


(1203), MATELOTE OF CANOTIERS (Matelote des Canotiers). 


Cut up into steaks one medium carp, a pike and a small eel, all being fresh and clean, with 
the heads and parings of the fish, some roots, aromatic herbs and mushroom parings; prepare @ 
good broth, strain and free it from fat; put the slices of fish in a saucepan or earthen vessel, with 
afew mushroom heads, a bunch of parsley garnished with garlic, whole peppers and salt, and 
small fried and browned onions; moisten to its height. with the prepared broth, and let it boil ona 
brisk fire in such a way that the liquid reduces to half while the fish cooks, then thicken the sauce 
moderately with kneaded butter (No 579), boil the sauce up twice, then remove it on one side té 
adda piece of butter. Dress the slices of fish on flat crusts of bread browned in butter, surround? 
them with the garnishing, and pour the sauce over the whole. 


(1204), MATELOTE OF CARP, MIROIR (Matelote de Carpe, Miroir), 


Scale the carp, draw it by the stomach, tie down the head and place it in a narrow low- 
bordered baking tin, lined with fat pork, minced roots and onions, mushroom peelings and a bunch 
of parsley; salt the fish, moisten it to half its height with white wine and fish broth, let it come 
quickly to a boil, and ten minutes after cover the fish over with a strong buttered paper, set it in a 
moderate oven, to finish cooking slowly without turning it over, but basting frequently. When 
done remove the fish from the pan with a large perforated skimmer, and dress it on a dish, 
surround it with a garnishing of very white peeled mushrooms and keep it warm. Strain the 
liquid into a sautoir, remove the fat and pour in a glassful of red wine; reduce it over a slow 
fire, and when very succulent, thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579); cover the fish with some of 
the sauce and serve the remainder separately. 


(1205), MATELOTE OF FISHERMEN (Matelote des Pécheurs.) 


Clean well a small eel, a carp, a pike, and a tench; cut them up into slices after suppressing 
the heads and thin parts, then salt them. Cook in a saucepan some minced onions, add the heads 
and bones from the fish, and two minutes after moisten with white wine; put in a bunch of pars- 
ley garnished with garlic, mushroom peelings and salt, then cook this broth for twenty minutes; 
Strain, remove the fat, and pour it into a saucepan to thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579); 
let cook for seven or eight minutes. Wipe well the pieces of fish, put them into a saucepan wider 
than its height, cover with the sauce, adding two dozen uncooked mushrooms and let all boil for 
hiteen minutes on a brisk fire, being careful to remove each piece of fish as soon as it is done. 
Dress these pieces on a deep dish over thin flat crusts of bread browned in. butter, surrounded 
with the mushrooms, then reduce the sauce without ceasing to stir; butter it off from the fire and 


finish by adding to the sauce pieces of four ounces each, and the juice of a lemon; pour this over 
the fish. : 


(1206), MULLETS WITH D'ANTIN SAUCE (Mulets & la Sauce d’Antin), 


Raise the fillets from the mullets and suppress the skin; cut them each lengthwise in two and 

season wit h salt, mignonette, thyme, bay leaf, sliced onions, branches of parsley, tarragon, 
egar a nd oil; let marinate for one hour, turning them over frequently, then drain and roll them 

rai fs om them crescent-shaped on a wire basket and fry in hot fat till a fine color. Serve in 
auce-Doat a d’Antin cauce (No. 458). } 





} FISH. | 449 


(1207). MASKINONGE A LA PROVIDENCE (Maskinongé & la Providence), 


Stud slices of the fish with anchovy fillets; plunge these slices in boiling water to which a little: 
vinegar has been added, for two minutes, take them out and lay them in a saucepan; cover the 
entire fish with a velouté sauce (No. 415), with white wine and mushroom parings, Bains a gar- 
nished bunch of parsley; let simmer until the fish is cooked, then drain off the liquid; rede Pn 
thicken it with egg-yolks, butter and cream; pass it through a tammy, and incorporate into it a 
piece more butter and chopped parsley. Dress the slices of fish, covering over with a third part. 
of the sauce, and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. 


(1208), PERCH, POLISH STYLE (Perche & la Polonaise), 


A species of bony fish ‘‘ Thoracic,” characterized by a very powerful prickly crest placed on the: 
back. River perch have very white, firm and fine meat of an exquisite savor; it is one of the best 
fresh water fishes. 





Fie. 295. 


Select medium sized perch, clean and scale; boil them in salted water for two or three 
minutes until the skin detaches easily, then take from the fire and carefully lift off the 
skin. Roll the fish in beaten eggs into which has been mixed a little melted butter, salt, and 
pepper, then in bread-crumbs, and lay them on a baking tin; brown in a hot oven to finish 
cooking, and when a good color, serve on a tomato sauce (No. 549), adding a little grated. 
horseradish to it. 


(1209). PERCH, SAUCE VALOIS—BOILED (Perche Bouillie & la Sauce Valois), 


Scale and clean two or three medium sized perch; boil sufficient water in a flat saucepan to 
cover the fish, adding to it salt, parsley roots with the green leaves, minced onions, and celery;. 
after this has boiled for a few moments, plunge in the fish, and let boil merely for a few times,. 
then set it on one side of the range to finish cooking. If the perch be required hot, serve them 
on a folded napkin with boiled potatoes on each side of the fish and green parsley at the ends. 
Serve a Valois and tarragon sauce (No. 554) separately. 


(1210), PERCH, STUFFED AND BAKED (Perche Farcie au Four), 


Split the perch through the whole length of the back, keeping on the head and tail bone; sup- 
press the large spinal bone and fins. Season the inside and fill the space with a fish forcemeat 
(No. 76) and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Set the perch on a buttered dish, season with salt and 
pepper, and pour over white wine and mushroom essence (No. 392); let it cook for twenty minutes 
in a moderately heated oven, then drain and reduce the gravy, mixing it in with a Spanish sauce 
(No. 414), when the sauce is ready, incorporate into it some butter, lemon-juice and chopped 
parsley; dress the fish and cover with the sauce. 


(1211), PERCH, WITH PARSLEY WATER, OBLERY ROOT AND PARSNIPS (Perche & l'Hau de 
Persil, de Céleri et de Panais), 


Scrape four ounces of parsley roots, and the same quantity of parsnips and the same of celery 
roots; cut them up into very fine shreds. Cook these separately in salted water for twenty minutes, 
then drain off the water. Cook the perch in this water, and when done and dressed, surround with 
boiled potato balls made three-quarters of an inch in size and the roots. Serve a part of the well re- 
duced liquid in a separate sauce-boat at the same time as the fish. 


450 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1212), PIOKEREL, TOMATO ANDALOUSE SAUCE (Brocheton, Sauce Tomate Andalouse) 


Score both sides of the fillets taken from the fish; put them in a tureen with salt, pepper, 
chopped up onions, parsley, oil, and vinegar; one hour later drain them from their marinade, 





Fia. 296. 


roll them in flour, and fry to a fine color, and when firm dress with a tomato Andalouse sauce 
{No. 550) served Bape ys 


(1213), PIKE PEROH OR WALL EYED PIKE A LA DURANOE (Sandre & la Durance), 


Split a one-pound pike perch in two, through the middle of the back, and take out the spinal 
bone lay this boned fish on a buttered dish and moisten with mushroom stock, and white wine; sea- 
son with salt and pepper, laying small pieces of butter on top; let boil up once, then place the dish in 
the oven covered with another smaller one, and cook for fifteen minutes; drain off the stock, thicken 
it with a little butter mixed with an equal quantity of flour (kneaded butter). Dress the fish, strain 
the sauce through a tammy, and when ready to serve add to it a good sized piece of butter, the juice 
of a lemon, and fine herbs. Cover over with a third part of the sauce, and garnish around with 
the following smelt fillets: Place fillets of smelts on a table to season; cover the cut sides with a 
layer of raw fish forcemeat (No. 76), mixed with chopped mushrooms, fold over the fillets so that 
the forcemeat is enclosed, then roll them in flour and dip in beaten eggs; plunge a few at the time 
into very hot frying fat to become a fine color, while cooking, then drain and salt. Dress these 
around the fish, serving the remainder of the sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1214), PIKE PEROH OR WALL EYED PIKE A LA FINANCIERE (andre & la Pinanciére), 


Braise the fish whole in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), remove the skin, dress the fish 
on a dish and glaze with fish glaze (No. 899) and lobster butter (No. 580) mixed. Reduce the 
stock and put it with a lean financiére sauce (No. 464); strain it through a tammy, and finish with 
butter. Garnish around the fish with fish quenelles (No. 90), made in a teaspoon (No. 155), whole 
truffles, and mushroom heads; pour a third of the sauce over, and serve the remainder in a 
separate sauce-boat. 


(1215), PIKE PERCH OR WALL EYED PIKE A LA GERALDIN (Sandre & Ja Geraldin), 


Cut the fish in quarter pound slices, cook in salted water into which vinegar has been added; 
range the slices on a long dish over a folded napkin, serve separately a garnishing of lightly 
‘blanched oysters, drained, dipped in eggs, rolled in fresh bread-crumbs, and fried in lard or oil. The 
‘sauce to accompany this fish is a half-glaze sauce (No. 418), into which has been stirred cayenne 
‘pepper, and small mushroom heads. 


(1216), PIKE PEROH OR WALL EYED PIKE A LA ROYAL (Sandre & la Royale). 


Raise the fillets from the fish; season, and fold in two; trim them the size and shape of medium 
chicken fillets, then range them in a buttered sautoir; besprinkle with butter and white wine, and 
place it in the oven covered over with buttered paper; when done, reduce some velouté sauce (No. 
415), to which has been added the stock; work up with butter, and reserve a third of this; to the 
other two-thirds add truffles, lobster and mushrooms, all finely shredded; stick a frill favor (No. 
10) into the top of each fillet, dress crown-shaped, and pour the garnishing in the center, serve the 
reserved sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 


1217), PIKE PEROH OR WALL-EYED PIKE, RUSSIAN STYLE (andre & la Russe), 


Weert trind haus ns eae ‘ : 
‘ry In butter some minced carrots, small onions and a garnished bunch of parsley, add to 
> Some 


> fish steaks each one weighing a quarter of a pound and previously marinated in salt 
¢ Lwo hours; moisten with white wine court bouillon (No. 39), and as soon as the fish is 





a 
f 
\ ; 


FISH. 451 


cooked, drain and dress it. Garnish with the small onions, strain the broth through a sieve, re- 
‘duce, skin and add to it some butter kneaded with flour, strain again through a tammy, put in a 
few capers, pour the sauce over the fish and garnish around with sippets of bread fried in butter. 


(1218). PIKE PERCH OR WALL-EYED PIKE, CONTINENTAL STYLE—FILLETS (Filets de San- 
dre au Continental), 


Raise the fillets from four medium sized fish, flatten and pare them oval-shape leaving 
on the skin, then season. Range them in a sautoir containing hot butter, placing them on their 
‘cut sides, then poach slightly, drain them and set them under a weight to keep them flat, leaving 
the butter in the sautoir. Cover the cut side of the fillets with a layer of fish forcemeat (No. 90) 
finished with red butter (No. 580); smooth this rounded on the top and strew over finely chopped 
lobster coral. Return the fillets to the sautoir containing the butter, cover over with buttered paper 
and finish cooking in a slow oven; thicken some good velouté sauce (No. 415) with cream, egg- 
yolks and butter, strain it through a tammy and add to it some oysters and shrimps. Dress 
the fillets in a circle, lay the oysters and shrimps in the center, and pour the sauce over the whole. 


(1219), PIKE WITH HAZELNUT BUTTER SAUCE (Brochet au Beurre Noisette), 


Cut in half pound slices and marinate for one hour in salt a medium sized scalded and cleaned 
pike, drain and put the pieces into a saucepan with water, salt, vinegar, cut up roots and onions, 
also a bunch of parsley. Put the saucepan on a good fire letting the liquid boil for five minutes 
then remove it on one side to keep quivering for a quarter of an hour in such a way that the fish 
cooks in the meantime. Put eight ounces of melted butter in a saucepan, pouring it off from its 
sediment, heat it to reach the degree of hazelnut butter (No. 567), then throw in an ounce of 
chopped parsley. Dress the fish; surround with fresh parsley leaves and send the butter to the 
table in a sauce-boat. 


(1220), POMPANO A LA ANTHELME (Pompano & la Anthelme), 


Raise the fillets from four fresh fish, leaving on the skin; cut with a small vegetable spoon, 
half inch diameter balls of potatoes, obtaining a quart when finished, boil them in salted water, 
and as soon as they are done, drain, return them to the saucepan, cover with a cloth, and set them 
in a slack oven for a few minutes. Boil up a pint of fresh cream, then add to it the potatoes. 
Season the fish fillets with salt, flour them over and cook them in a frying pan with clarified butter, 
when done range them in the center of a dish. Thicken the potatoes with shrimp butter (No. 
686) and dress them around the fish besprinkling the whole with very green chopped parsley. 


(1221), POMPANO A LA CARONDELET (Pompano & la Carondelet). 


Cut four fish into quarter of a pound slices, boil them in salted water containing thyme, bay 
leaf, parsley branches and vinegar; at the first boil remove them from the hot fire to let quiver on 
one side of the range for fifteen minutes; when finished, drain and suppress the skins, keeping the 
meat as whole as possible. Fry a medium sized onion in butter, dust with curry powder and mois- 
ten with court bouillon and white wine (No. 39); thicken this stock with thick béchamel (No. 409), 
‘and reduce it properly; stir in egg-yolks and fresh butter, then strain the whole through’ a tammy. 
Dress the fish; pour the sauce over and surround either with fried milts or mussels 4 la villeroi (No. 


698). 


(1222), POMPANO A LA DUCLAIR (Pompano 4 la Duclair), 


Lift the fillets from the fish, pare them into half hearts and marinate with salt, pepper, oil and 
Jemon juice; lay them in a sautoir containing clarified butter and cook in the oven. Mince up very 
finely one medium raw onion, a small bit of garlic and two ounces of celery root; fry them in butter 
and moisten with fish stock (No. 195), adding a few cloves, let this cook for twenty minutes, 
then pass it through a sieve and incorporate into it some veloute, reduced to the consistency 
‘of a sauce, when ready for serving incorporate therein chopped parsley and a piece of fresh butter. 
Dress the fillets either in a circle ora straight row, cover over with one-half of the sauce, and serve 


the other half in a separate sauce-boat. 


452 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1223), POMPANO A LA MACEDOINE (Pompano & la Macédoine), 


Have several fresh fish; lift off the fillets, suppress the skin and cut them into thin slices; lay 
these in a buttered sautoir one beside the other, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when 
they are cooked set them under a weight to get cold, mask over with a well reduced allemande 
sauce (No. 407), into which has been stirred some mushroom purée (No. 722). Bread-crumb them 
English style (No. 13), and lay each fillet close, one beside the other, in the sautoir, pour over some. 
butter and brown them in a brisk oven; when removed dress them in a circle, garnish the center 
with a vegetable macédoine (No. 2755), thickened with fresh butter just when ready to serve. 


(1224), POMPANO ‘A LA MAZARIN (Pompano & la Mazarin), 


Pare the fillets taken from the fish, suppress the skin and season with galt, pepper and nutmeg;, 
lay them in a buttered sautoir, moisten with white wine and court bouillon (No. 39), basting them. 
several times while-cooking; when done, drain off the liquid and reduce it with the same quantity — 
of velouté sauce (No. 415) thickened with egg-yolks and cream, finishing the sauce with lobster 
butter (No. 580); strain all this through a tammy and pour it over the fish; range round the latter 
pike quenelles (No. 90) decorated with truffles (No. 154) and fried breaded oysters from which the: 
heart has been removed. vi ie Oe et 


(1225). POMPANO A LA POTENTINI (Pompano & la Potentini), 


Split three fish, each weighing a pound and a half, lengthwise down the spinal bone; leave the 
skin on the meats, season with salt, coat over with oil, and roll them in white bread-crumbs; broil. 
for fifteen to twenty minutes over a slow fire, turning them over when half done. Dress them on 
a dish, pour over slightly melted lobster butter (No. 580) thickened with velouté sauce (No. 415);. 
add the juice of a lemon and chopped parsley; garnish around the fish with sliced fresh cucum-. 
bers, laid in salt for fifteen minutes, and all the liquid extracted, then seasoned with pepper,, 
vinegar, and oil, as well as some finely chopped chervil. 


(1226), POMPANO A LA SOYA (Pompano & la Soya), 


Suppress the heads and thin tail parts from three fish weighing three quarters of a pound each>, 
cut the meat into steaks, and sprinkle over with salt. Cut in fine shreds, half a pound of leeks, 
and a quarter of a pound of celery, the same of carrots; fry them in butter over a slow fire without: 
coloring, then add the pieces of fish, and moisten to their heighth with broth and white wine; season 
with pepper, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. When the fish is done, remove from the fire and dress. 
Lay around the dish mellow potatoes (No. 2799), and thin slices of blackfish 4 la Orly (No. 
1114). Serve with a sauce-boat of horseradish and cream sauce (No. 478). 


(1227). POMPANO A LA TOULOUSE (Pompano & la Toulouse), 


Split the fish through the middle at both ends through their entire length; braise these in a: 
mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 39), and when the fish is done, drain the stock, and reduce it 
with the same quantity of velouté sauce (No. 415); thicken it with egg-yolks, and fresh butter, 
and put it on the back of the fire to keep it near the boiling point, then strain it through a tammy. 
Dress the fish, garnish around with mushrooms, truffles, fish quenelles, crawfish tails, or else 
shrimps. Cover the garnishing with the sauce, and lay on top small breaded smelts fried in oil, 
or these may be replaced by gudgeons or thin slices of perch fillets, place around a border of crusts. 
of bread, buttered and browned in the oven. 


(1228), POMPANO FILLETS FRIED WITH TOMATO SAUCE (Filets de Pompano Frits & la Sauce 
Tomate), | 


Remove the fillets from several fresh fish, also the skins; cut them across diagonally, and 
ay them on a dish to season; marinate the slices for a quarter of an hour in sweet oil, lemon juice 
d chopped parsley. Take up the pieces, one by one, dip them into a frying batter (No. 137), and 
nge them in hot frying fat; let them slowly attain a good color while cooking, and when done 
and salt. Dress the fillets in a pyramid form on a napkin, and garnish with fried parsley 

i cut lemons, or else serve with a sauce-boat of tomato sauce (No. 549). 





= 
- 
a. 


Aaa Sd 1 | 453 


(1229), PORGIES A LA MANHATTAN (Porgies & la Manhattan), 


Cut the fish into quarter of a pound slices and boil them in a court-bouillon, moistened 
with white wine (No. 39); drain and remove the skin carefully, then dress on the center of a 
hot dish. Dip two ounces of cracker-dust and as much bread-crumbs into a little milk; press out 
all the liquid and put this paste into a saucepan with fish stock (No. 417) and a little milk, in order 
to have the sauce not too thick; season with salt, nutmeg and pepper, and rub through a sieve, then 
finish with fresh butter just when prepared to serve.. Shell some fresh green corn by splitting the 
grains through the center, and pressing on them with the back of a knife to extract all the inside part, 


chop this up finely, and add to it the sauce, also some hashed lobster coral and chopped parsley; 
pour the whole over the fish. 


(1230), PORGIES, PAUPIETTES HINDOSTAN (Paupiettes de Porgies 4 l’Indostan. 


Remove the fillets and skin from the fish; pare to the size of one and three-quarters inches to 
four inches, and season with salt, nutmeg and pepper; then coat the flesh side with a thin layer of fish 
‘quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), to which has been added cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Roll them up into 
«cork-shaped pieces and set them in buttered tin cylinders; lay these in a sautoir, moisten with 
mirepoix stock (No. 419), sprinkle over with butter, and set them in the oven for a few moments 
‘simply to stiffen the fish; remove, unmold, dip in egg, and roll in white bread-crumbs, then run an 
iron skewer through, and dip each one in melted butter, and broil them for fifteen to twenty 
minutes over a very low fire. Dress them on a stand made with rice and saffron, surround with 
sliced lemon, each slice being cut across in two, and serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
mixed with curry and buttered with cayenne butter (No. 571). 


(1231), PORGIES WITH CHABLIS WINE (Porgies au vin de Chablis), 


Prepare enough court bouillon (No. 39) with white Chablis wine to cover the fish; range some well 
cleansed fish on the grate of a fish kettle, boil the court bouillonin the kettle, and replace the grate 
containing the fish into the boiling liquid. Give a few boils, then remove to the side of the range, 
keeping the kettle covered for a few minutes; when the fish is cooked, drain it off and dress it on 
a napkin laid over a long dish; surround it with sprigs of parsley. Drain the broth, skim off the 

fat, reduce, and thicken it with small pieces of kneaded butter (No. 579); boil it once or twice, then 
remove, and finish with a few pats of fresh butter, chopped parsley, and lemon juice. 


(1232). RED SNAPPER A LA CHEROT (Red Snapper & la Chérot), 


Raise the fillets from the fish, pare them into half hearts, lard half of them with anchovies, 
and the other half with lardons of eel; put them in a buttered sautoir and moisten to their height 
with a mirepoix stock (No. 419) and champagne wine; baste frequently, and when the fish is done, 
drain it off and reduce the stock. Fry a finely chopped onion in butter, dilute it with the stock 
and a tomato purée (No. 730), boil, despumate, and just when ready to serve work in a piece of 
fresh butter, a little sugar, and some chopped parsley. Dress the fish crown-shaped, pour some 
of the sauce over and garnish the center with some villeroi quenelles; serve the rest of the sauce 
‘separate. 


(1933), RED SNAPPER A LA OREQUY (Red Snapper & la Oréquy). 


Serve the fillets taken from a fish either whole, or else divided into quarter pound pieces; cook 
them in a mirepoix (No. 419), moistened with Madeira wine; when cooked reduce this to half, 
adding its equivalent of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Continue to reduce, incorporating into the 
sauce some lobster butter (No. 580), a pinch of cayenne, and lemon juice. Prepare a garnishing 
of gherkins, carrots, quenelles, and truffles, the carrots to be cut in half inch balls blanched and 
cooked in white broth, the quenelles made with a coffeespoon (No. 155) and poached, and the 
gherkins cut olive-shaped, and the trutfles, cut in the shape of cloves of garlic and heated sie: 
a little glaze (No. 402) and Madeira. Dress the fish in the center of a dish, and sroune with 
the garnishings arranged in groups; pour some sauce over, and serve the rest separately. 


(1234), RED SNAPPER A LA DEMIDOFF (Red Snapper la Demidoff). 
Keep the fillets whole while taking them from the fish; remove the skin, pare and eut them 
up into bias slices trim these giving them an oval shape, then season and cover the surface with a 
cream forcemeat (No. 76). | Decorate the tops with. truffles, range them ina buttered- sauteir, and 


454 THE EPICUREAN. 


moisten with fish stock (No. 195); cover over with buttered paper, and let cook in a slack oven. 
Reduce the stock with an equal quantity of velouté sauce (No. 415); garnish around the fish with 
oysters from which the hard parts have been removed, small lobster rissolettes made as in No 956, 
and very green parsley leaves on eachend. Serve the sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1235), RED SNAPPER A LA MOBILE (Red Snapper & la Mobile, 

Pare the fillets lifted from a fish, suppress the skin, and cut them up into half heart-shaped: 
pieces; make an incision on one side, and fill this with a forcemeat prepared as follows: Fry 
colorless in butter some shallots, mushrooms, chives, and parsley; add to it a tomato purée (No. 
730), season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and mix in a little béchamel sauce (No. 409). Lay 
the fish on a buttered dish, and cover with a Chivry sauce (No. 449). 


(1236), RED SNAPPER A LA PRINGESS (Red Snapper & la Princesse). 

Remove the skin from fillets of fish and cut them up into half inch thick slices; pare these into 
ovals, three and a half inches long by two and a quarter wide, season with salt and pepper. Lay 
on each oval a bed of mushroom purée (No. 722), and cover the whole with quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 90). Egg the surfaces, bestrew with bread-crumbs and a little parmesan, then set them in a 
lightly buttered sautoir; place this in the oven and when the fish is done, serve it with a separate 


princess sauce (No. 528). 
SALMON (Saumon), 


The salmon is a large fish, its weight reaching thirty pounds. The bodyis covered with scales, 
the meat is tender, thick, red colored and delicate, of an exquisite taste, but very difficult to digest. 
Dorsal 


ectoral f Caudal 





ee 
en . = 
Q-: SS Caudal 
a rs ESET ES 
Qo 
Pectorals Ventrals “Say 
Fig, 297. 


No fish has more than two pectorals, or two ventrals: may have several anals, and several dorsals> 
none, unless deformed or monstrous, has more than one caudal. 


(1237), SALMON A L'ARGENTINE (Saumon & l’ Argentine), 

. Remove the meats from the fillets of a fish, also the skin; trim them into half inch bias 
slices, then pare them the shape of a half heart. Range these pieces in a buttered sautoir, season 
with salt and pepper, and moisten with white wine and a court bouillon (No. 389) or else some 
mirepoix stock (No. 419). Cover over with a strong buttered paper and set them to cook in a slow 
oven. As soon as the fish is done, drain off the liquid and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 


414), to a half-glaze; dress the fillets, pour the sauce oyer and garnish the center with a very 
consistent argentine sauce (No. 429). 


(1238), SALMON A LA D'ARTOIS—FILLETS (Filets de Saumon 2 la d’Artois), 

Select a piece from the tail end of an uncooked fish, remove the meat from each flat side of the 
bone, suppress the skin and cut the fish into half inch thick slices, pare them the shape of a chickem 
fillet, season and cover both sides with a forcemeat (No. 90) wet with beaten egg-whites and sprinkle 
over with finely chopped truffles, lay them in a buttered sautoir, baste the fish with melted butter 
and cook in a moderate oven. When done dress the pieces in a circle and garnish the center with 
cooked minced truffles and mushrooms, Cover over witha béarnaise sauce (No. 483) made with 
‘obster butter (No. 580) and finished with meat glaze (No. 402), 





FISH. | Pehl 


(1239), SALMON A LA DAUMONT (Saumon ’ la Daumont), 


Cut slices of fish half an inch thick, more or less, so as to strike the exact joints of the large 
dorsai bone so that it can be cut through without any resistance, otherwise the fish will be 
torn and spoiled. Put these slices into a buttered sautoir, season them with salt, whole peppers, 
branches of parsley, thyme, bay leaf and minced onions; cover with cold water and let cook slowly; 
suppress the skin and bones, dress the fish and garnish around with mussels, shrimp tails and 
blanched oysters. Cover the whole with a well buttered Normande sauce (No. 509), and decorate 
the top with minced truffles heated in a little half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira, and around with. 
- fluted and glazed mushrooms and trussed crawfish. 


(1240), SALMON A LA DUPERRE—DARNE (Darne de Saumon & la Duperré), 


A darne means a large slice of salmon, four to six inches thick, cut from the middle of the 
fish; after it is scaled, put it into an earthen vessel and cover with fine salt, leaving it thus for 
one hour, then take it out and lay it in a fish kettle; cover with cold water anda gill of vinegar, 
salt, minced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and a bunch of parsley; let the liquid come to a 
boil, then skim and remove it to the side of the range so that it quivers only for forty to sixty 
minutes. Drain off the darne, suppress the skin and sanguineous parts covering the flesh, and 
dress it on a dish; glaze it over with fish glaze (No. 399) mixed with lobster butter (No. 580); 
garnish around with the tender part of oysters, mushroom heads turned and channeled (No. 218). 
and arranged in clusters; cover with a pint of matelotte sauce (No. 498) buttered when prepared 
to serve with lobster butter (No. 580), and fill a sauce-boat with the same sauce; lay a row of 
bread crotitons fried in butter around the edge of the dish. 


(1241), SALMON, FRENCH STYLE (Saumon & la Francaise), 


Dress a small salmon, put it into a fish kettle and moisten with mirepoix stock and white wine 
(No. 419); set it on the hot fire and as soon as it reaches the boiling degree, skim and put it 
aside, keeping it at the same degree of heat, but without boilins for an hour or more, according to 





Fia. 298. 


the size of the fish. When done suppress the skin and sanguineous parts covering the flesh, glaze it 
over with fish glaze (No. 399) and lobster butter (No. 580) mixed, dress ona dish and garnish around 
with mushroom heads, small truffies and milts cooked in a marinade. Cover over with sea 
sauce (No. 464) and lay around the garnishing small slices of eel fried in butter, glazed crawfis 
and bread crofitons fried in butter; serve a financiére sauce (No. 464) separately. 


(1242), SALMON A LA MODERNE (Saumon & la Moderne). 


Prepare a garnishing composed of blackfish fillets a la orly (No. 1114), small onions, milts, ard 
mushrooms, also a champagne sauce (No. 445). Cut from a medium sized salmon, two inch ae 
slices; macerate them for one hour in fine salt, drain, and range them on the grate of a ee 
kettle to plunge them into a boiling plain court bouillon (No. 38). Let it boil once more, and ee 
it at the same degree of heat but without boiling for twenty-five to thirty minutes; when we 
drain the slices on a cloth to wipe off all the moisture; suppress the skin, then dress them a oe 
lapping the other on a long dish; around the fish range the small DEtOUs; mushrooms, and ml dé 
pour some of the sauce over, and garnish both ends with the fillets. Send the champagne sauce: 


to the table in a sauce-boat. 


(1243), SALMON A LA VICTORIA (Saumon & la Victoria), 


inch in thi . irepoix stock (No. 419),, 
Trim slices of fish, each about half an inch in thickness; cook them in a mirepoix 
moistened with red wine, and when done, which will take from eight to ten minutes, drain them 


456 THE EPICUREAN. . 


off, and strain the stock; reduce this, and despumate it: just when ready to serve stir in a piece of 
lobster butter (No. 580). Serve the fish, surrounding it with sautéd lobster escalops, and small 
anchovy tartlets; cover the lobster with half of the sauce, and pour the remainder in a sauce-boat 


to be served at the same time. 


Ne 944), SALMON—BROILED SLICES—BEARNAISE SAUCE (Tranches de Saumon Grillées & la 
Sauce Béarnaise). 


Cut off two slices from the fish, each half an inch thick; lay them on a dish to sprinkle with 
salt, adding sweet oil, minced onions, and parsley leaves; let them marinate for one hour. Set 
them on a broiler and broil them for thirty minutes, basting them over with oil. or melted butter. 
When done, remove the skin, dress them on a dish and pour over a little oil mingled with 
lemon juice and chopped parsley. Send to the table with a sauce-boat of béarnaise sauce 
(No. 483). 


(1245), SALMON MARINADE SAUCE (Saumon a la Sauce Marinade), 


Cut any desired width slices from a medium sized salmon, in a manner to separate the bone 
at the joint, or about every half inch. Range them on a dish, besprinkle with vinegar and oil. 
season with salt, peppercorns, thyme, bay leaf, parsley leaves, cloves, mace, and a clove of 
garlic. Let them marinate in this for two hours, then range the slices on a fish kettle grater, and 
cover liberally with salt and the marinade; moisten with sufficient cold water to immerse the fish 
and thirty minutes before serving time, place it on the hot fire to bring the liquid to a boil, then 
move it aside and keep it at the same degree of heat, but without boiling for eighteen to twenty 
minutes. Dress the slices on a folded napkin with parsley leaves around; serve a separate sauce- 
- boat of lean marinade sauce (No. 496). 


(1246), SALMON—QUARTER—GENEVOISE SAUCE (Quart de Saumon & la Sauce Génevoise), 


The illustration (Fig. 299), represents this remove of salmon as it should be dresssed. 

Choose a fresh salmon weighing from twelve to sixteen pounds, suppress the head and about 
eight inches of meat from the thin tail end; divide the remainder into two. equal parts cutting it 
through the thickness in the center, split each part in two lengthwise pieces leaving half of the 
large bone adhering to each part; it is one of these half slices that is shown in the illustration. 
Tie these four halves together to give them their primitive shape; lay the fish on a grater of 









































Fie. 299. 


a small fish kettle with an abundance of salt, let macerate for one hour, then cover with 
cold water and two gills of vinegar, add simply a large bunch of parsley, then heat the liquid while 
skimming, and at the first boil remove the kettle to the side of the fire so that the liquid quivers 
only for thirty to forty minutes. A quarter of an hour before serving, drain off the fish on the 
grater and with the tip of a knife cut a slit in the middle of each quarter of the width of three 
inches on the whole length of the skin, in a straight line, so as to remove all the central part, sup- 
press also the sanguineous crust covering the flesh, leaving them bare. Wash the fish in its own 
broth, then rub the surfaces with a piece of fresh butter or red butter (No. 580). Slide the fish on 
a long dish, the bottom being supplied with a perforated board, and covered over with a folded 
napkin. Send to the table with a dishful of three-quarter inch potato balls boiled in salted water 
and a sauce-boat of genevoise sauce (No. 469). 


(1247), SALMON SALTED, A LA BEDLOW (Saumon Salé & la Bedlow). 


Soak some salt salmon for twelve hours, changing’ the water several times, then boil it in 
dulated w vater adding a handful of parsley branches. Have a béchamel sauce (No. 409), and 


ready to sérve incorporate into it pats of fresh wena add, some  nasturtiums and garnish. 


‘With small crab éroquettes (No. 879). 





= 


FISH. | 457 


(1248), SALMON—SMOKED AMERICAN STYLE (Saumon Fumé 3 l’Américaine), 


Boil over a slow fire some fresh, mellow smoked salmon, then dress it with the following 
sauce: Chop up finely two shallots, place them in a Saucepan with half a pint of fish essence (No. 
388), and one gill of vinegar, reduce with a pint of lean velouté (No. 415); stir in the juice of a 
lemon, two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569) and four finely chopped hard boiled egg-yolks; strew 
a little chopped parsley over and serve. 


(1249), SARDINES BROILED, ANCHOVIES FRIED, SILVER FISH IN PAPERS (Sardines 


Grillées. Anchois Frits, Silver Fish en Papillotes), 


Broiled Sardines.—If the sardines be fresh, empty and scrape on each side, then wipe well. 
Put them on a plate, pour oil over, and place them on a double hinged broiler; broil, dress and 
baste with maitre d’hotel butter (No. 581). Serve at the same time some slices of toast. In case 
there be no fresh sardines then use those in tins; take them out of the box, suppress the skin, and 
cut off both ends, finish them the same as the fresh ones. | 

Fried Anchovies.—If no fresh anchovies be handy, then use unsalted ones, splitting them in 
two and soak in fresh water for three hours. Drain, clean, and put them on a deep plate pouring 
over vinegar, oil, adding mignonette pepper. Dip them in frying paste, then plunge into very 
hot oil to fry them to a fine color; drain and dress on a folded napkin in a pyramidical form, 
arranging a bunch of fried parsley on top. Serve with anchovy sauce (No. 427). 

Silver Fish in Papers.—After cleaning the fish, slightly detach the fillets in order to remove 
the middle bone; salt and coat over with oil, broil them but little. Oil some sheets of paper, cut 


. into heart-shapes; on one side place a little Duxelle (No. 385), over this the fish, and finish with a 


little more Duxelle, then fold the paper all around to enclose them hermetically; when they are 
two-thirds folded pour in some Madeira sauce (No. 492), and finish to close. Butter the dish on 
which they are to be served, put on the papers and set it in theoven. Serve when the papers have.- 


‘swollen and they are of a fine color. 


(1250), SHAD BROILED, RAVIGOTE BUTTER (Alose Grillée, Beurre Ravigote), 


The shad is a fish of the Clupeidz family, found in North America and Europe. It isan excellent 
fish with a toothless mouth, and a large veined head. Select a very fresh shad; split it down the 





entire back, remove the spinal bone, and season with salt, and place it on a dish with some oil, 
afterward broil it with the flesh side on the broiler, having a low but well maintained fire; turn it 
over when a fine color to finish cooking. Dress the fish on a hot dish; besprinkle with ravigote 
‘butter (No. 583), partially melted to the consistency of thick cream, and serve. 


(1251), SHAD A LA OREOLE (Alose 4 Ja Créole), 


Raise the fillets from a shad, remove the skin, and cut the fish into half inch thick slices; pare 
them half heart-shape (each one should weigh four ounces after being pared). Cook them in a 
mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 419), and when done drain off the stock to reduce it with 
velouté sauce (No. 416). Dress the fillets of shad in a circle, and fillin the empty space with rice 
a la ecréole, and surround the fish with fried shad milts or broiled shad roe. 

To Prepare OCréole Rice.—Have half a pound of washed rice for every shad; set it in a sauce- 
pan, moisten with twice as much water, adding two ounces of butter; let boil, and then finish 
cooking in the oven for twenty minutes; stir into it a little saffron, butter, and lemon 
juice. ui ’ 


458 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1252). SHAD A LA EVERS GARNISHED WITH SHAD ROE SHELLS (Alose a la Evers, 
Garnie de Coquilles d’Gauf d’Alose), 


Split a shad through the back, remove the middle bone; fry in butter very finely hashed onions, 
shallots, and fresh mushrooms; add to this some bread-crumbs after soaking and pressing them, 
also chopped parsley, butter, and egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Fill the inside of the shad with 
this preparation, lay it ona buttered pan, pouring over a little white wine and velouté sauce (No. 415); 
besprinkle with bread-crumbs, parmesan, and butter, then set it into the oven so that the fish cooks. 
well and browns nicely. When done squeeze over the juice of a lemon, and dredge with chopped 
parsley. Cover the tops of the shells in the oven, and serve them on napkins the same time as the 
shad. 

For the garnishing use shells of shad’s roe, prepared by wrapping the roes in strong buttered 
paper, and cooking them in a slow oven; remove the paper and adhering skins, and use them to. 
fill well some cleaned scollop shells. Fry a little bread-raspings in butter with the addition of 
chopped up mushrooms and onions; moisten with a little white wine, add some béchamel (No. 409), 
and pour this over the filled shells; bestrew the top with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, be- 
sprinkle over a little butter, color them and serve on a dish over a folded napkin. 


(1253), SHAD, BRUSSELS STYLE (Alose 4 la Bruxelloise), 


Raise the fillets from a shad and remove the skin, then lay the fish on a buttered dish. Mix 
with two ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of finely chopped fresh mushrooms, pepper, salt, nut- 
meg, lemon juice and a clove of crushed garlic; cover the fish with this preparation, dredge over 
bread-crumbs and grated parmesan and pour over a little melted butter. Cook the shad in a hot 
oven and when done, press over the juice of a lemon; besprinkle with chopped parsley, and cover 
with a rather light brown sauce (No. 414) made with white wine. 


(1254), SHAD, IRISH STYLE, GARNISHED WITH SHAD ROE CROQUETTES (Alose a I’Trlan-- 
daise Garnie de Croquettes d’Giufs d’Alose), 


Split a medium sized shad through the entire length of the back; take out the spinal bone, 
then season the fish with salt; coat it over with sweet oil and broil it to a fine color, having it at. 
the same time well cooked, then dress it on a hot dish. Garnish around with potato balls five- 
eighths of an inch in diameter, cooked in salted water, well drained, and covered with a green. 
ravigote sauce (No. 531), sending a sauce-boat of the same to the table. Around the potatoes lay 
croquettes made of shad’s roe, round and flat, the same as below, and serve the whole very hot. 


Shad’s Roe Croquettes.—Boil a shad’s roe in a little mushroom broth, then skin it. Fry in. 
melted butter a little chopped shallot, add to it the roe, some béchamel cream, salt and prepared’ 
red pepper (No. 168), reduce and stir in a piece of fresh butter; when this preparation is cold make- 
it into one and a quarter inch croquette balls, flattening them down to half an inch in thickness; 
dip them in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden color, then drain, wipe and. 
dress around the potatoes. 


(1255), PLANKED SHAD, RAVIGOTE BUTTER (Alose & 1a Planche, au Beurre Ravigote). 


Procure a very dry cherrywood plank, three-quarters of an inch thick, fourteen inches long,. 
and ten inches wide; it should be beveled on the bottom edge with two crosspieces of wood which 
should be screwed on underneath. Open the shad by splitting it down the back, remove the spinal 
bone and season with salt; cut off the head and thin tail part, and fasten the shad on the plank; 
set it in front of the fire to cook, or better still underneath a gas salamander (Fig. 123.) When the: 
fish is done—which will be in about thirty minutes—lay both the plank and shad on a dish, and 
cover the top of the fish with ravigote butter (No. 583); servo it immediately. 


(1256), SHAD, WITH SORREL PUREE AND SORREL LEAVES (Alose & la Purée d’Oseille et aux 
Feuilles d’Oseille), 

With Sorrel Purée.—Trim the fillets of shad into half hearts, cook them asin No. 1258, and 
then dress in a circle; garnish the center with some sorrel purée (No. 728). 

With Sorrel Leaves.—Fry two ounces of chopped onions, moisten with fish broth, and add half 
a pound of sorrel leaves; lay the whole shad.on top. of this with two ounces of butter put on the 
cover, closing it hermetically with a little dough made with flour and water, and cook it in a mod- 
erave oven tor five hours. Serve the fish whole with the broth reduced. 





Af ba be | 45% 


(1257), SHEEPSHEAD A LA BECHAMEL (Sheepshead 4 la Béchamel), 


Cook two pounds of peeled mushroom heads with butter and lemon juice, then cut them up: 
into transverse slices, Butter a border mold (Fig. 139) either oval or round according to the shape- 
of the dish it is intended for; bestrew the inside with bread-crumbs and fill in the empty space. 
with duchess potato preparation (No. 2785); press down the potatoes well, butter over witha brush, 
then set it on a baking sheet to brown nicely in the oven. Cut a six-pound sheepshead into 
square pieces, cook them in salted water, and as soon as done, drain; shred the fish suppressing all 
the bones, skin, etc., and put it into a sautoir; pour over some good, reduced, thick béchamel: 
(No. 409), raw cream and mushroom broth, adding butter piece by piece after it is taken from. 
the fire. Invert the border on a dish—garnish the center with the shredded sheepshead alternat- 
ing with layers of the sliced mushrooms; pour over a little of the sauce and shape it into a dome; 
cover the summit with a layer of Mornay sauce (No. 504), smooth nicely, then besprinkle with 
grated parmesan and melted butter, glaze in a very hot oven or else a gas salamander (Fig. 
123). Decorate the dome with four or six trussed crawfish and serve separately a reduced béchamel 
sauce (No. 409) finished with red butter (No. 580). 


(1258), SHEEPSHEAD A LA BOURGUIGNONNE (Sheepshead & la Bourguignonne), 


Mince four ounces of onions, and fry in two ounces of butter, moistening with a bottle of Bur-~ 
gundy wine; season, and add a garnished bunch of parsley, then continue to cook for fifteen: 
minutes. Remove the fillets from a fine sheepshead, suppress the skin, and cut the fish into half inch 
thick slices, pare them half heart-shaped; these slices should each weigh four ounces; lay them one 
beside the other in a baking dish and pour over the strained wine. Cook the fish in a moderate. 
oven for fifteen minutes, basting occasionally; when done drain the fish on a dish, strain the 
stock through a sieve, skim off its fat, and thicken it with a few bits of kneaded butter (No. 579), 
then pour it over the slices of sheepshead and serve. 


(1259). SHEEPSHEAD A LA BUENA VISTA (Sheepshead 4 la Buena Vista), 


Put a well cleansed sheepshead into the fish kettle and cook it in mirepoix stock (No. 419); 
when the fish is done, dress and garnish around with sauted shrimp and the soft part of some 
oysters. The sauce to accompany this is made with béchamel (No. 409) mixed with a tomato. 
purée (No. 730), seasoned with salt, cayenne pepper, and lemon juice; strain this sauce and add to 
it a few blanched tarragon leaves, pour half of this over the fish and garnishing. Place around 
some fried porgy paupiettes (No. 1230), and potato cakes (No. 2778). Serve the remainder of the- 
sauce in a sauce tureen. 


(1260), SHEEPSHEAD A LA MEISSONIER (Sheepshead & la Meissonier), 


Blanch separately one ounce of parsley root, one ounce of celery knob root, two ounces of mush- 
rooms, two ounces of the white of leeks, all cut in fine strips, and minced onions, also blanched 
separately. Put three ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when hot place therein the 
onions, leeks, mushroom, parsley and celery roots, and fry without browning. Moisten with white 
wine and fish stock (No. 417). Lift the fillets from the fish, pare them neatly, and lay them ina 
deep buttered dish, the skin part downward; pour over the prepared stock, and cover over with 
another dish, then cook in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Put into a saucepan, one 
pint of velouté (No. 415), boil, and reduce it with the stock to the consistency of a light sauce, 
add the vegetables, dress the fish, pour the sauce and the roots over, and bestrew the whole with 
very green, chopped parsley. 


(1261), SHEEPSHEAD, CARDINAL SAUCE (Sheepshead & la Sauce Cardinal), 


Clean and prepare a sheepshead, tying down the head, then place it on the grate; plunge this 
into cold salted water in a fish kettle; place on the fire, and at the first boil, cover the kettle and 
remove it to one side so that the liquid only quivers; keep it thus for forty-five to sixty minutes, 
then drain and rub the surface over with a piece of butter; dress the sheepshead and garnish it 
around with very green parsley branches and olive-shaped potatoes boiled in salted water. Serve 
at the same time a cardinal sauce (No. 442) in a separate sauce-boat. 


460 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1262), SHEEPSHEAD WITH THICKENED COURT BOUILLON (Sheepshead au Court Bouillon Lié) 


Clean well a very fresh sheepshead weighing about six pounds, and place it on a grate of a 


fish kettle; pour over just sufficient court bouillon (No. 88) to cover. Set the fish kettle on the fire 
and let the liquid come to a boil while skimming, then remove it at once to the side of the range 
to keep quivering without boiling for half an hour. Melt some butter in a pan, add to it a finely 
chopped shallot and fry it colorless, also eight ounces of minced mushrooms; moisten with some of 
the court bouillon and let reduce. Lay the sheepshead on a buttered dish; season with salt and 
mignonette and pour the sauce over; cover with another dish and finish cookin in the oven for 
fifteen to twenty minutes. Just when ready to serve, dress the fish, reduce the stock and thicken 
it with some velouté sauce (No. 415) and a little tomato sauce (No. 549); pour it over the fish 
after removing the skin from both ends. This sauce should be rather light than otherwise. Sprinkle 


‘chopped pene over all. 


(1263), SKATE ‘A LA LECHARTIER (Raie & la Lechartier), 


Suppress the fins and wash a medium-sized skate, after having emptied it, divide it into three 
parts, the two wings and the body; lay these in cold water of a sufficient quantity to cover entirely, 
then add salt, pepper, vinegar, sliced onions and parsley leaves. Set the fish boiler on the fire 


removing it at the first boil, put in the liver and keep it on one side without letting it boil for full ° 


half an hour, drain off the fish, scrape it well on both sides in order to remove the skin properly. 
Put into the bottom of a baking dish a bed of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), on this the skate with the 
sliced liver around; cover all with a well reduced béchamel (No. 409), into which has been stirred a 
little melted fish glaze (No. 899); besprinkle with grated parmesan, -bread-crumbs or raspings and 


chopped parsley, the whole well. mixed together; pour over a little butter and bake in the oven. 


When serving squeeze on the juice of a lemon. 


(1264), SKATE, WITH HAZELNUT OR BLACK BUTTER (Raie au Beurre Noisette ou Noir). 


Cut the fish up into three parts, the two wings and the body; each wing into three parts and 
the body into two, making eight parts in all. Suppress the head and tail, empty it from the belly 
side, reserving the liver. Plunge the pieces of skate into boiling water until the skin will detach 
when scraping it off witha knife. After all the pieces are well cleansed soak them for one hour in 
cold water. Boilsome water in a saucepan, add to it minced roots and onions, aromatic herbs, 
a bunch of parsley, salt and three gills of vinegar; let this boil for ten minutes, then throw in the 
skate and the liver, cover over when it begins to boil, set it on one side to poach merely, without 
boiling; a quarter of an hour later drain and dry all the moisture on a cloth. Dress the fish on 
a dish with the liver sliced, cover it liberally with hazelnut butter (No. 567) or else black butter 
(No. 565), or a sharp sauce (No. 538). 


(1265), SMELTS A PALEXANDRIA (Eperlans & ’Alexandrie) 


A genus of fish of the Malacapterigian order of the salmon family, being five to six inches long. 
This fish is remarkable for its silvery coloring, and the hae) of its meat, which has a slight fra- 
grance of the violet or cucumber. 


Smelts 4 VAlewandria.—For twelve smelts mince finely four medium leeks, and fry them in 
butter. Cut the heads and tails from the smelts, and fry the fish with the leeks; besprinkle with 
flour and moisten with tomato gravy, adding whole peppers and a garnished bunch of parsley con- 
taining bay leaf and garlic. When the fish is done, dress and reduce the sauce, thickening it with 
egg-yolks and butter, then strain it through a tammy (Fig. 88); garnish round the dish with the 
smelt’s milts or roe fried in butter, cover with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder in a 
sauce-boat. 


(1266). SMELTS A LA GONDOLIERE (Eperlans & la Gondoliére), 


Bone medium sized smeits after cleaning nicely; split them down through the back, remove 
the bone, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; stuff their insides with a pike quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 90), into which a quarter as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385) have been added, and softened 
with a little good cream; fill the smelts with this, close to give them their original shape, and wrap 
thera up in a double sheet of buttered paper. Braise the fish in a mirepoix stock with white wine 
(No. 419), and as soon as they are done, strain the liquid and reduce, adding to it a Venetian sauce 

Vo. 995); unwrap the smelts, range them in. the.center o£. dish and pour the sauce over, eos 
the ends with trussed crawfishy 4 of: - 98 GA det OR * ; ' 


Oo oi ie ts S 46h 


(1267). SMELTS A LA NORFOLK (fperlans & Ja Norfolk), 


Cut off the heads and thin tail parts from some large smelts; bone, and stuff them with a. 
pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) containing raw fine herbs; range fend on a buttered baking dish, 
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and dredge over chopped shallots fried in butter; moisten 
with white wine, put to cook in a slow oven basting frequently with its own stock; when done. 


_ drain off the fish, reduce the liquid with velouté (No. 415), skim and season well. 


Just when ready to serve incorporate into the sauce a little fresh butter and cut up mush-. 
rooms, 


(1268), SMELTS, DIPLOMATIO (Eperlans Diplomate), 


Have large fresh smelts cut off the fins, the dorsal, remove the eyes, split the fish open through. 
the back, suppress the gills and sever the spinal bone a little below the head, and just above the- 
tail, then detach and remove it. Salt the insides and fill them through a cornet w ith fish foreemeat 
(No. 90) mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped truffles; shape them into rings by slip- 
ping the tail through the gill and mouth SO that they bite their tails; tie to keep well together, then 
flour them lightly; dip each one into raw egg-yolks beaten up with faite butter, drain, and, then roll 
them in white bread-crumbs. Heat some butter in a taised- edged baking pan, range the fish. in. 
this butter, one beside the other, and, push it into a ‘moderate oven to cook on both sides; the but- 
ter should be plentiful and very hot. Drain the smelts as soon as they are done, untie, and dress 
them on a long dish with a bunch of fried parsley at eee end. Serve a separate lobster sauce- 
(No. 488). ; 


(1269), FRIED SMELTS, ON SKEWERS, TARTAR TRUFFLE SAUCE (Eperlans Frits on. 
Brochettes; Sauce Tartare aux Truffes), 


Choose the smelts of a medium size; empty, clean, and wipe dry, then season and dip a few 
at the time into milk, then roll quickly in flour, and sift through a very coarse sieve. Take- 
them up by the heads, and run small metal skewers through the eyes, either four or six on. 
each one; plunge them at once into hot frying fat in order to have them a nice color, then drain. 
and salt. Dress the smelts on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and quartered. 
Iemons, and serve with a sauce-boat of tartar sauce (No. 631), with chopped truffles added. 


(1270), SMELTS IN DAUPHIN A LA HAMLIN (Eperlans en Dauphin 41a Hamlin), 


Prepare some very thin pancakes; cover each one with a thick layer of pike forcemeat (No. 90),. 
into which raw fine herbs have been mingled; place another thin pancake on top, then pare them: 
into half hearts. Bone some smelts leaving on the head, remove the eyes, replace by asmall bit of 
forcemeat, and a dot of truffle, roll them up with the fillets inside and fill the empty space in the- 
center of each side with some of the same forcemeat; set on top a small fluted mushroom head (No. 
118). Cover the half hearts with the forcemeat, and lay a smelt over; place in its mouth a small 
piece of red lobster cut from one of the claws. Set these on a buttered baking sheet, pour over 
some butter, and cover with asheet of buttered paper, then cook them in a slack oven; dress 
crown-shaped, and serve with a ravigote sauce (No. 531), separately. 


(1271), FRIED SOLES A LA COLBERT (Soles Frites & la Colbert), 


The sole is an excellent tasting fish, its meat being delicate and choice. It is found in almost 
every sea. The shape is nearly oblong, and its mouth long and projecting. 


Fried Soles & la Colbert. —Dress a medium sized sole, paring off the black skin; detach the- 
fillets from the bone on the same side, two inches from the head, and three from the tail; break 
the bone with the dull edge of a knife, three inches from the head and four from the tail; dip the 
fish into salted milk, roll it in flour, then immerse entirely in beaten eggs, and roll in ead, bread- 
crumbs; let the sole fry slowly so that it cooks, and is of a fine color, and when done, remove the 
piece of spinal bone, and fill the inside with maitre d’hOtel butter (No. 581). Dress on a hot dish: 


and garnish with cut lemons (No. 1138). 


462 THE EPICUREAN 


(1272), SOLES A LA LUTECE (Soles & la Lutdce), 


Out off straight the heads from three well cleaned soles; remove the black skin; shorten them 
greatly with a pair of scissors, split them through the middle of the skinned side, and season with 
salt and pepper; dip in flour, then in beaten egg, and lastly in bread-crumbs, fry in clarified butter, 
dress on a very hot oval-shaped dish, and garnish around with five-eighths of an inch in diameter 
potato bails, fried and afterward rolled in fresh butter; season with salt, lemon juice, and chopped 
parsley. Serve a Parisian sauce (No. 515), at the same time, but separately. 


(1273), SOLES A LA MARGUERY—FILLETS (Filets de Soles & la Marguery), 


Raise the fillets from two clean, skinned soles; fold in two, pare nicely and season, range 
them on a buttered baking dish and bestrew the surface with shallots and mushroom peelings: 
moisten to cover with a white wine court bouillon (No. 39) and allow the liquid to come to a 
poil, then finish cooking the fillets in a slow oven. Drain them off singly, and dress on a dish; 
garnish one side with shrimp tails, and the other with blanched oysters, from which the hard 
parts have been removed, or mussels. Keep the whole very warm. Strain the broth the soles 
were cooked in, reduce it to a half-glaze, thicken with a mere spoonful of Normande sauce (No. 
509) and finish with a piece of fresh lobster butter (No. 580); pour this over the fillets and garn- 
ishings, then glaze the sauce with a gas salamander (Fig. 123); two minutes will suffice for this. 
‘When the fish is ready to be served, brush the surface with thin lines of red butter (No. 580). 


(1274), SOLES A LA NORMANDE (Filets de Soles Normande), 


Raise the fillets from four medium sized soles weighing about a pound each; remove the skin, 
pare them neatly and fold in two. Put them on a buttered baking sheet, season with salt, pep- 
per and chopped onions and moisten to their height with white wine and mushroom broth or else court 
boullion (No. 39), let the liquid come toa boil, then set the pan in a moderate oven to leave until the 
fish is well cooked, basting frequently with the stock; drain off the fish and strain the stock, then 
reduce it with some velouté (No. 415) and thicken with raw egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter. 
Dress the sole fillets in a circle on a dish and garnish the inside border with half circular-shaped 
crotitons three-sixteenth of an inch thick and an inch and a quarter in diameter; heat the dish 
‘slightly, dip the flat side of the crofiton in beaten eggs, stick it to the plate, besprinkle with melted 
butter and color in a hot oven. Around the fillets of sole arrange some quenelles molded in a 
coffeespoon (No. 155), some mussels or oysters from which the hard parts have been removed and 
channeled and turned mushroom heads (No. 118), then cover the whole with the sauce. Garn- 
ish the inside of the circle with fillets of smelts or milts & la villeroi, drip over the surface thin lines 
of meat glaze (No. 402), using a brush for the purpose, and lay trussed crawfish on top. 


(1275). SOLES A LA RICHELIEU—FILLETS (Filets de Soles & la Richelieu), 


Raise twelve fillets from the soles; pare them their whole length and flatten; season and lay 
‘them on a buttered raised-edged baking tin with the parings and bones, half a bottle of white wine, 
sprigs of parsley, bay leaf, salt, and whole peppers; make a court bouillon by boiling twenty 
minutes; strain it, and cover the fillets, and poach them partially only; a few moments will suffice 
for this. Drain and range them on another clean baking sheet, covering over with a buttered 
paper, and let get cold under a weight, then pare them once more; strain the above stock, 
skim off the fat, and reduce it to a half-glaze, incorporating it slowly into a little espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) with the oyster and mushroom broth. When the sauce is of a sufficient succulence strain 
and keep it in a bain-marie. Make a pike forcemeat (No. 76). Butter some oval rings three and 
one-half inches by one and three-quarter inches, and a quarter of an inch thick, lay these on sheets of 
buttered paper, fill them with pike forcemeat; smooth nicely, and range on top the pared fillets; set 
the rings on a baking sheet one beside another, cover with buttered paper cut in the desirable 
size. This operation may be performed a few hours before dinner time, that is if the baking sheets 
can be kept on ice to prevent the forcemeat from souring. Fifteen minutes before serving set 
the Sheets in a slow oven to heat the fillets, and poach the forcemeat. After taking them out lift 
off the paper, then with a fish skimmer remove each bed of forcemeat and fillets without disar- 
ranging them whatever, remove the rings and the paper, dress at once on a dish and surround with 
very hot garnishing of twelve quenelles, godiveau of pike (No. 83), and two dozen channeled mush- 
POOMS ( No. 118) on the other; as soon as the dishes are garnished set them into the heater. At 

very last moment heat the sauce while stirring, adding butter in moderation; remove the dish 





FISH. ; 463 


from the heater, drain off the liquid and lightly cover the fish garnishings with the sauce. Sand 
a sauce-boat of the sauce into which has been added two dozen oysters, from which the hard parts 
have been removed, trimmed and cut in large dice. 


(1276). SOLES A LA ROCHELAISE (Soles & la Rochelaise), 


Remove the black skin from a fine sole; insert the knife on each side to separate the fillets 
without detaching them; lay the fish on a buttered dish, the black skin side underneath; moisten 
with white wine and oyster broth, season and set on top some small pieces of butter; place it in the 
oven to cook without coloring. Drain off the stock, add a minced onion, and reduce it to half, 
pouring in a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and thickening with butter and lemon juice; strain 
this through a tammy; garnish around the sole with mushroom heads and the soft part of oysters; 
add chopped parsley, pour part of the sauce over the whole, serve the rest separately. 


(1277) SOLES A LA TROUVILLE (oles & la Trouville), 


Suppress the heads and skin from two well cleaned soles; split them down on the dark side in 
order to remove the large bone; season the fish, and fill in the empty space with a fish farce (No. 
90) with cooked fine herbs (No. 387), mixed with a salpicon of blanched oysters. Range the soles 
on a baking dish or sheet, moisten them with a court bouillon with white wine (No. 39); season, 
and let the liquid reach boiling point, then finish cooking the soles in a moderate oven. After 
they are done, strain their stock-and reduce it to a half-glaze; incorporate into it slowly some 
reduced velouté (No. 415), also a few spoonfuls of oyster broth. Dress the soles on a dish, 
cover them over with the sauce, and surround the sides with small quenelles (No. 90) made with 
red butter (No. 580), and the ends with a cluster of fried oysters. Send a surplus of the sauce 


_ to the table in a sauce-boat. 


(1278). SOLES, VENETIAN STYLE—FILLETS (Filets de Soles 41a Vénitienne), 


Detach entirely the fillets from six fine, very thick soles; remove the black skin, beat to flatten 
lightly and fold each one in two, pare and place them in a sautéing pan, having it well buttered, 
the pointed ends laid toward the center; add a little salt and lemon juice, sauté without coloring, 
and when done dish up in a crown-shape, cover with a Venetian sauce (No. 555), and 
garnish the pointed end with a crawfish claw from which the smaller movable claw has been re- 
moved, garnish with a paper frill (No. 10); serve. 


(1279), SOLES BAKED ITALIAN STYLE (Soles au Gratin & ]'Italienne), 


For this dish select medium sized soles, lay them on the table the white side underneath, then 
proceed to cut off the heads on the bias; from this side suppress the giils and empty the sole 
thoroughly; cut off the thin tail end and scrape the surface with the dull edge of a knife to detach 
slightly the skin covering the tail, keeping the tail bone in position with the same side of the knife; 
Seize the skin with a towel, and tear it off violently with one stroke. Use a pair of large scissors to 
remove the small bones found on the outside, and scrape the white skin, then wash, wipe, and make 
a straight incision on the skinned side to the middle bone, then detach the fillets half an inch 
on each side. Butter a baking dish, lay in it the soles, having the skinned side down, and pour 
over two gills of white wine, salt and pepper; lay a few pieces of butter on top, and let the stock 
come to a boil, then set the dish into the oven for five minutes; when through lay six channeled 
mushroom heads (No. 118) in a straight row on top, cover with an Italian sauce (No. 484), and 
dredge over a thin layer of bread-raspings; pour over melted butter, and color in a hot oven for 


twelve to fifteen minutes; then serve. 


(1280), FRIED SOLES (Soles Frites), 


_ Fried soles are prepared the same as a la Colbert (No. 1271), by slightly detaching the fillets 
without breaking the bone; dip them in milk and flour, and plunge in hot frying fat to cook; when 
done and ofa fine color, drain, wipe, salt, and dress the fish on a napkin; garnish with fried 


parsley and quartered lemons. 


(1281), STUFFED SOLES—FILLETS (Filets de Soles Farcis), 
Spread on a raised-edged buttered baking sheet a layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) to the 
thickness of half an inch, smoothing well the surface. Take twelve fillets of soles, not too large, 
pare and season them properly, poach these slightly in asautoir with melted butter; drain and let 


464 THE HPICUREAN. 
get partially cold under a light weight; pare Bhs once more and range them at short distances from 
each other on the layer of forcemeat, placing them on the poached side. Brush over with melted 
butter and finish cooking in a slack oven as well as the forcemeat. After removing the pan from 
theoven, cut the forcemeat all around the fillets with the tip of a small knife, lift one after the other 
up with a palette, forcemeat and all, and dress them in two rows on a long dish, one overlapping 
the other; garnish between the rows with poached oysters and the ends with a bunch of 
crawfish tails. Cover the bottom of the dish and the oysters with a normande sauce (No. 509} 
serving more in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1282), SPOTTED FISH A LA LIVOURNAISE (Spotted Fish & la Livournaise. 

Carefully pare some fillets taken from the fish into half hearts; lay them on a buttered dish 
and cover over with tomato sauce (No. 549), gravy (No. 405) and a brown sauce (No. 414), the 
whole reduced to the consistency of a very succulent sauce, but thin. Besprinkle with bread-crumbs, 
sprinkle over with oil, and bake the fish in a hot oven; when ready to serve, bestrew me surface 
with chopped parsley and a few pounded fennel seeds. » 


(1283), SPOTTED FISH, ENGLISH STYLE—FILLETS (Filets de Spotted Fish & Anglaise) 


Raise the fillets from three small spotted fish, each one weighing from three-quarters to one 
pound; pare and season them with salt, oil, lemon juice and branches of parsley, leaving them 


marinate in this for half an hour. Drain, cut shapely, and dip them in beaten eggs, roll in fresh © 


bread-crumbs and finally immerse in melted butter; broil the fillets a quarter of an hour, turning 
them over when done. Serve with a hot horseradish sauce (No. 478) or a melted maitre d’hotel 
(No. 581). 


(1284), SPOTTED FISH, MUSSEL SAUCE—WHOLE (Spotted Fish Entier Sauce aux Moules), 


Spotted fish weighing from three to five pounds are usually excellent. Empty, scale and tiedown 
the heads; cooks them in aplain court bouillon (No. 88), and at the first boil, remove the kettle on 
one side to allow the liquid to bubble only for thirty to forty-five minutes. Drain out the fish, 
dress it on a napkin, surround with parsley, also balls of boiled potatoes three-quarter inch in 
diameter and Villeroi mussels (No. 698), also a sauce-boat of normande sauce (No. 509). The fish 
can also be cut in pieces, simply cooked in a wine court bouillon (No. 39) and served the same 
as above. 


(1285), SPOTTED FISH, QUEEN SAUCE—FILLETS (Filets de Spotted Fish Sauce & la Reine), 


Procure a very fresh, well cleaned fish weighing four pounds; remove the fillets, skin, pare, 
and flatten them with the handle of a knife, lay them on a dish, season with salt, oil and lemon 
juice, and one hour after, besprinkle with chopped parsley, roll in flour. Dip them in eggs beaten 
up with melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil them for a quarter of an hour, turning them 
over when done on one side. Serve a hot queen sauce (No. 530) separately. 


(1286), SPOTTED FISH, WITH GREEN RAVIGOTE SAUCE (Spotted Fish & la Sauce Ravigote Verte), 


Cut from twenty to twenty-four aiguillettes from the spotted fish; put these into a tureen with 
salt, mignonette, branches of parsley, a bit of thyme, bay leaf, basil, a little tarragon vinegar, alittle 
good oil, six shallots and two cloves of garlic both finely minced, toss them about frequently in their 
seasoning so that they become thoroughly impregnated. Just when ready to serve, drain and roll 
them in flour. Have sufficient sweet oil poured into a frying pan to bathe the entire fish, let it get 
very hot, then plunge into it the slices to let attain a fine color and become quite crusty; drain and 
dress them in a pyramid form. Serve separately a green ravigote sauce (No. 531). 


(1287), SPOTTED FISH, WITH COURT BOUILLON, CALCUTTA (Spotted Fish au Court-Bouillon, 
Calcutta), 


Cut in medium size Julienne four ounces of the red part of a carrot, and half as much oslees 
root; cut Up as many mushrooms as there is celery, but keep them aside; blanch the carrots and 
celery separately, and when done, drain, and lay them in a saucepan to sete: in a little broth, (No. 
4a) letting it fall to a glaze several times and eventually mix in the cut up mushrooms. Lay well 
PERS fish in a narrow fish kettle, cover with partially cold fish court bouillon and white wine 


Se ee 


‘degree, but without boiling from tw 


FISH. ihe 46% 


(No. 39) heat this to boiling degree, then set it on one side to keep the Hquid quivering for twent 

to thirty minutes, according to the size of the fish. Strain the liquid through a sieve eae | ff the 
fat, and reduce it to a half-glaze, thickening it with Indian curry sauce (No. 456) Nat it : ‘ 
or twice; dress the fish on a dish, surround it with the vegetables and One with i it 
sauce, serving the remainder separately. sree 


(1288), STURGEON FRICANDEAU, WITH SORREL OR WITH GREEN PEAS (Fricandeau 
d’Esturgeon & l’oseille ou aux Petits Pois), 


; Cut a fillet of sturgeon from the middle part of the fish; remove the skin, pare, and if t 
thick, split it in two without detaching the parts; flatten down the meat and ey it in S nines 
for a veal fricandeau, tien season. Line a flat saucepan with fragments of fat pork ae ms 
and onions, lay the fricandeau on top, and moisten to half its height with some onl blond as ; _ 
(No. 423); set the saucepan on a moderate fire and let the liquid fall very slowly to a glaze ee 
moisten it once more, and again reduce it to a glaze, and finish the cooking by adding . re littl 
eee f a Hat while basting it constantly; finally glaze the fricandeau in the oven Drain, er 
it on a dish, pour its own stock over after straini imming i ae oe 
Moa or grosh pons straining and skimming it. Serve a separate garnish- 


(1289), STURGEON OR STERLET WITH QUENELLES AND OLIVES—SMALL (Petit Esturgeon 


ou Sterlet aux Quenelles et Olives), 


Take asmall sturgeon or sterlet weighing eight to ten pounds; seale, suppress all the large scales 
from the back and sides; open it on the belly side in order toempty and notch the inside heat 
taking the place of the spinal bone, at equal distances, with the tip of a knife, then tie ha ead 
down with a string. Place the fish in a small narrow fish kettle, sufficiently long, garnish with fat 
pork, minced roots and onions, salt, and cover over with thin slices of pork, keeping them down 
in their place with some string. Moisten to half the height with white wine and very rich veal 
blond (No. 423); boil the liquid for ten minutes, remove it on one side so as to cook the 
fish slowly while covered, for about an hour. Drain the sturgeon, untie, then strain and skim the 
stock, reducing it to a half-glaze, and incorporating into it slowly a few gills of a good, reduced 
brown sauce (No. 414), finishing with a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine, then strain once more. At 
the very last moment, drain the fish, place on a dish, and surround it with garnishing of quenelles 
and stuffed olives; cover with some of the sauce, sending the rest to the table in a sauce-boat. 


(1290), TROUT A LA BEAUFORT (Truite & la Beaufort), 


_ A genus of fish of the salmon family, all their species being carnivorous; they live a greater 
part of the time in fresh water, generally that which is the purest and the most rapid. They are 


very highly esteemed. 





Fie. 301. 
Trout & la Béaufort.—Draw the fish through the gills without scaling or opening the belly; 


ater and half a bottleful of white wine, 
setit on the fire and bring the liquid toa 
side to keep the liquid at the same 


put it into a fish boiler with two gills of vinegar, cold w 
salt, sliced carrots and onions and a bunch of parsley, 


boil while removing the scum, and at the first boil set it on one 
enty to thirty minutes; at the last moment drain off the fish 


and slide it on a dish covered witha folded napkin, dressing it on its side and not on the belly, 
be entirely revealed; rub the surface over with a 


so that the handsome shading of its skin may 

piece of butter to prevent the skin from drying; garnish around with small pike quenelles (No. 
90) made with lobster butter (No. 580), decorated with truffles; lay a milt or roe fried in butter on 
the sides and garnish the ends with fillets of flounders scored with slices of truffles and stoned olives. 
Cover with a matelote sauce (No. 498) and send to the table a separate sauce-boat of the same sauce. 


466 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1291), TROUT A LA CAMBACERES (Truites & la Cambacéres), 


Dress four trout each one weighing three-quarters of a pound, suppressing the gills and entrails, — 
put them into a small fish boiler (Fig. 135), moisten just to their heighth with a mirepoix stock with 
white wine (No. 419) and cover the kettle, let come to a boil, and when cooked drain off the liquid 
and reduce it to the consistency of a syrup, add to it some espagnole sauce (No. 414), half inch 
balls of truffles, green olives and small mushroom heads, also Madeira wine, a pinch of cayenne and 
alittle tomato sauce (No. 549) passed through a very fine sieve. At the last moment stir in a piece 
of fresh butter, dress the trout, surround with the garnishing, cover over with a part of the sauce, 


serving the remainder separately. 


(1292), TROUT A YHOTELIERE (Truites & l’Hoteliare). 


Have one fish weighing a quarter of a pound for each person, split it through the entire 
length of the back; take out the middle bone and lay it on the flesh side on a buttered dish, 
pour over some oil, season, and set into a quick oven; when done put inside each trout a spoon- 
ful of maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581), close, dress and garnish with potatoes, English style. (These 
English potatoes are potatoes cut the same size and shape as a pigeon’s egg, then steamed for 
about fifteen minutes.) Serve a separate sauce made of espagnole (No. 414) and meat glaze (No. 
402), finishing it at the last moment with a piece of good butter and lemon juice; run it through a 
tammy, then add chopped parsley. 


(1293), TROUT A LA HUSSARDE (Truites a la Hussarde), 


Each trout to weigh a quarter of a pound; split them through the entire back, take out the 
middle bone and lay them on a dish, season with salt, mignonette, thyme, bay leaf, oil and lemon 
juice; two hours later lift them out a their felons Mix into some fresh butter a quarter as 
much cooked fine herbs (No. 385), garnish the inside of the fish with this, and wrap them up ina 
sheet of buttered double paper, put them to cook in a slow oven for twenty minutes, then un- 
wrap and dress over a white poivrade sauce (No. 522). 


(1294), TROUT A LA JOAN OF ARO (Truites 4 la Jeanne d’Arc), 


Remove the fillets and skin from several quarter of a pound trout, put them in a dish, season- 
ing with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, bay leaf, parsley and minced onions, let marinate for two hours, 
then take out and dip into melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbsand broil over the fire, dress, 
sprinkle with cayenne butter (No. 571) and serve separately a velouté sauce (No. 415), finished 
with crawfish butter (No. 573) and lemon juice; strain through a tammy. 


(1295), TROUT A LA MEUNIERE (Truites a la Meunidre), 


Procure several four-ounce trout, scale, draw and season, cut an incision on the thickest part 
of the fillet, roll the fish in flour. Heat some<hutter.in a frying pan over a moderate fire, lay in 
the trout and cook while turning them over, drain‘and dress.on a dish leaving the butter in the 
pan, and to it add a few spoonfuls of melted butter; cook this to hazelnut (No. 567), then remove 
the pan from the fire, put into it.a coffeespoonful of anchovy essence or a piece of anchovy butter 
(No. 569) to let it froth, then gradually add two or three teaspoonfuls of vinegar; when hot throw 
in a pinch of chopped parsley, and pour this butter over the very hot fish. 


(1296), TROUT A LA MONTAGNARDE (Truites & la Montagnarde), 


Score some fine trout, lay them in salt for one hour, then shake them out, put the fish into a 
fish boiler, moisten with white wine and a little water, add branches of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, 
cloves, palin and basil. Let cook and when done, drain the fish and strain the stock, reduce and 
thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579), skim the surface and strain it again through a tammy, add 
some blanched parsley leaves, then pour this sauce over the trout. . 


(1297). TROUT AU BLEU—SMALL (Petites Truites au Bleu), 


Small brook trout live where the water is rapid and pure. There exist certain reservoirs, for 
stance at the Saratoga Club, where each day the fisherman bring the product of their catch, so 
th tat amateurs of good fish may always have on hand trout to be killed just when ready to use; 
is is an excellent method to bring out all the good qualities of its meat. 





FISH. 46% 


The various ways of cooking this fish are most simple; kill the trout by knocking their heads 
sagainst a hard substance, open the belly to draw, clip off the gills and wash out the inside. Plunge 
into boiling water, salted and acidulated with vinegar, and as soon as it reboils, remove the sauce- 
pan to the side of the fire to keep the liquid in a bubbling state only for fifteen minutes. Drain 
the trout, dress it on a napkin, and garnish with parsley and potatoes. Serve at the same time 
fresh and melted butter. Cooked in this manner the trout may become twisted and broken, but 
this does not interfere with its good quality. 


(1298), TROUT, COOKED IN COURT BOUILLON AND SERVED WITH DIFFERENT SAUCES 
(Truites Guites au Court Bouillon et Servies avec Différentes Sauces), 


Prepare a stock with white wine and carrots, onions, celery root, all well shredded, salt, pep- 
‘percorns, and a bunch of parsley, garnished with half a clove of garlic. Let the liquid boil until 
the roots are pretty nearly done, then strain it. Lay in a narrow saucepan four medium sized 
clean trout, moisten them to just their height with the strained stock, cover and cook slowly; when 
<lone dress them on a dish, strain the stock, remove the fat, and reduce it to a half-glaze adding to 
it an equal quantity of Valliére sauce (No. 553), or a Genoise sauce (No. 470) or a Génevoise sauce 
<No. 469), or gourmets sauce (No. 472), or a well buttered béchamel cream sauce (No. 409), into 
which has been added a little anchovy essence. Cover the trout with a part of the sauce and serve 
‘the rest in a sauce-boat. 


(1299). TROUT, FRIED—SMALL (Petites Truites Frites), 


Have some small two ounce trout, split open the bellies to empty, scrape lightly and wipe 
them on a cloth; season with salt, score and roll them in flour. Shape them into rings by passing 
the tails through the gills and tying; plunge a few at the time into hot frying fat, let cook for 
eight to ten minutes, then salt, remove the strings, and dress them on napkins with fried parsley 
-on top, and slices of lemon around. 


(1800), TROUT, LAUSANNE STYLE (Truites a la Mode de Lausanne), 


Clean well twelve small trout each weighing four ounces. Fry in butter two ounces of onions 
and four ounces of mushrooms both finely but separately chopped up; put this into a baking dish 
lay the fish on top and moisten with white wine; sprinkle over with fresh butter and let cook in a 
hot oven; as soon as they are done, strain the stock into a saucepan, reduce it with veloute sauce 
(No. 415) and just when ready to serve, incorporate into the sauce some butter and lemon-juice; 
‘strain through a tammy and add chopped parsley; pour it over the trout previously dressed on a 
‘dish. 


(1301). TROUT, STUFFED (Truites Farcies). 


Draw four trout by the gills, each fish to weigh half a pound; wipe well the insides, and fill the 
belly with a paste made of fresh butter, white bread-crumbs, parsley, onion, and mushrooms, all 
finely chopped. Season, then roll each one in a separate sheet of oiled paper; lay them on a baking 
dish containing melted butter, and let cook for fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven, turn- 
ing and basting them frequently. Wrap and dress them on a dish; serve with their own butter, 
and slices of lemon ranged around in a circle. 


(1302), SALMON TROUT—A L’ANTOINETTE (Truite Saumonée —a ]'Antoinette), 


This fish has the color and taste of the salmon. Toward the middle of spring it leaves the 
ocean to ascend the rivers; this trout is easily digested and is of an exquisite flavor. Our Ameri- 
can species is very inferior in quality to those of Europe; they are much larger, and their 
meat not as red, nor can the taste be compared; therefore epicures are generally disappointed when 
eating our salmon trout. 


A V’Antoinette.—Score the fish and marinate it in salt, mignonette, lemon juice, chopped 
onions, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Drain and roll it in flour, then in beaten eggs, and finally in 
bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter, and serve with a separate sauce made as follows: Have one 
pint of velouté (No. 415), incorporate into it two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569), salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg; heat and thicken with two egg-yolks and cream; pass it through a tammy, and serve 
with capers and shrimp tails. 


468 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1303), TUNNY FISH OR HORSE MACKEREL—FRIED—WITH ARROWROOT MAYONNAISE 
SAUCE (Thon Frit & la Sauce Mayonnaise a l’Arrowroot), 


Lift the fillets from a young tunny fish or from a horse mackerel, suppress the skin and from 
the meats cut some lenthwise slices or aiguillettes, lay these on a dish to season with salt, migno- 
nette, slices of onions, sprigs of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, oil and vinegar. Leave to marinate for 
two hours, then drain and wipe dry, dip them in eggs, then in bread-crumbs, fry to a good color; 
drain and dress on a folded napkin placing a bunch of fried parsley on top. Serve separately 
arrowroot mayonnaise sauce (No. 611). 


(1304) CANADIAN TURBOT ALA D'ORLEANS (Turbot Canadien & la d'Orléans), 


Raise the fillets and skin from the fish; trim and pare into half hearts, then lay them in a but- 
tered sautoir; season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, adding butter and white wine, then cook it 
over a hot fire, basting frequently while cooking. Dress on a decorated forcemeat border and fill 
in the inside with mushroom heads, crawfish tails and slices of truffle between each fillet. Makea 
- velouté sauce (No. 415) with the stock and cream, run it through a tammy and pour half of it 
- over the fish, serving the other half in a sauce-boat, 


(1805), CANADIAN TURBOT A LA HOUSTON (Turbot Canadien & la Houston), 


Pare the fillets cut from a turbot into half hearts; range them in a buttered sautoir seasoning 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, finely chopped shallots and butter; moisten with white wine, then cook 


in a slow oven, drain the stock, reduce and add it to a reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) thickened | 


with egg-yolks, cream and butter. Dress the fish on a buttered baking dish, pour over the sauce: 
and dredge over grated Swiss cheese; besprinkle with melted butter and brown in a brisk oven, 
then serve. 


(1306), CANADIAN TURBOT A LA MERCIER (Turbot Canadien & la Mercier), 


A turbot having a dark skin on both sides and the shape of chicken halibut; when dressed 
and clean, split it through the back, butter a small raised-edged dish, a little larger than the fish; 
cover the bottom with shallots, mushrooms and parsley, all finely chopped, and lay the fish on 
top, season and moisten to its height with a good cold court bouillon with white wine (No. 39); let 
the liquid boil for ten minutes over a moderate fire; cover it with a sheet of buttered paper, and 
finish cooking in a slack oven, basting it frequently. After removing besprinkle with chopped 
parsley, and serve it on the same dish surrounded with cysters a la Villeroi (No. 698). 


(1307). ENGLISH TURBOT WITH CAPER SAUCE (Turbot Anglais Sauce aux Capres), 


Select a very fresh turbot with thick and white meat, scale and draw, then soak it 
for one hour in cold water containing a quarter as much milk. Lay it on the drainer of a fish 
kettle with some salt, and moisten with fresh water mixed with white wine or vinegar; let boil 
very slowly for three-quarters of anhour. Drain the turbot, rub the white surface with a piece of 
butter and dress, surrounding it with branches of parsley and balls of boiled potatoes three quarters 
of an inch in diameter. Serve separately a white sauce (No. 562); finished just when ready to serve 
with a piece of fresh butter and capers, or else serve a mussel sauce instead of caper (No. 506). 


(1308). WEAKFISH A LA BRIGHTON (Weakfish a la Brighton), 


Pare some fillets of weakfish, after suppressing their bones and skin, trim them heart-shaped, 
Jay them in a buttered dish with finely shredded chives, truffles and mushrooms; moisten with: 
white wine and oyster liquor, adding a liberal piece of butter. When the fish is done, strain, 
reduce the stock with well-seasoned velouté sauce (No. 415), and just when serving stir in some fresh 


butter, lemon juice and a sufficient quantity of small blanched oysters. Dress the fish, garnish with 
the oysters and pour the sauce over. 


(1309), WEAKFISH A LA. PONTIGNY (Weakfish a la Pontigny), 
| Raise the filets from weakfish; pare them into oval shaped slices and lay in a buttered sautoir; 
moisten with mirepoix stock (No, 419) with red wine, and let come to a boil, then set the pan into 
oven; when the fish is cooked, drain off the stock, and reduce it with an equal quanity of 





v 
; 
i 
f 
} 
‘. 7 
‘ 
7 
- 
: 





FISH. 469 


espagnole sauce (No. 414), adding a garnishing of mushrooms,round soubise quenelles, crawfish tails 
or else shrimps. Dress the slices overlapping with the garnishing around and reduce well the 
sauce; stirinto it some maitre d’hotel butter (No. 581), pour it over, and surround the whole with 
crottions of bread fried in butter. 


(1310), WHITEBAIT FRIED GREENWICH STYLE AND DEVILED (Blanchaille Frite & la Mode 
de Greenwich et & la Diable), 

The season for whitebait is June, July, and August; it somewhat resembles the small 
coalfish. 

Whitebait Fried.—Lay the fish on ice for twenty minutes previous to serving; roll them in a 
towel with a handful of flour; shake and then toss them in a very coarse sieve to remove the 
superfluous flour; plunge them into very hot frying fat. One minute will suffice to cook them; 
drain and sprinkle over with salt and serve. 

Whitebait, Greenwich Style.—To fry whitebait is to dry them in a towel to absorb all their 
moisture, then roll them in flour, and fry in very hot frying fat; when crisp, drain on a napkin and 
dress on a very hot dish. Send to the table accompanied with slices of brown or white bread cut 
very thin and buttered, also quartered lemons; serve at the same time a pepper-caster containing 
cayenne pepper. 


Deviled Whitebait.—Dip them in milk, lay them on a dish containing mustard and cayenne 
pepper, then in cracker dust, and fry in very white beef kidney suet, drain, and salt. Dress on 
a napkin with fried parsley on top. Serve separately, slices of brown or fresh graham bread cut 
exceedingly thin and buttered. 


(1811), WHITEFISH A LA GERHARDI (Lavaret 4 la Gerhardi), 


Split a whitefish in two along the spinal bone; remove this, then season. Lay the fish on a 
buttered dish, moisten with white wine, add chopped up onions, then let cook to reduce the liquid 
to the consistency of a half-glaze; mix into it a Hollandaise sauce (No. 477). Dress the fish and 
surround it with blanched oysters, mushrooms and shrimp tails; pour two-thirds of the sauce over, , 
and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(1312), WHITEFISH, PIMENTADE SAUCE (Lavaret Sauce Pimentade), 
Raise the fillets from the whitefish, pare and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Coat 
them over with sweet oil, and broil on a slow fire; dress on a hot dish, and surround with slices 
of lemon. Serve a separate pimentade sauce (No. 521). 


at 


ae 
<A Eek 





BEEF (Boeuf). 




















(1313), BARON OF BEEF A LA ST. GEORGE (elle de Bouf & la St. George), 


The baron of beef weighs about one hundred and fifty pounds. It is the saddle of beef cut 
from the hip of a young and tender ox as far down as the second rib, this being pared and the 
thinnest part covered with slices of fat so as to have the meat of uniform thickness and cooked 
alike throughout. It takes about five hours to cook a baron of beef in a baker’s brick oven, the 
best to use for large pieces of this description, after being cooked they should be put in a heater or 
warm place, for about two hours, to finish cooking slowly. When cooked arrange it on a large 
dish, garnishing on the edges with shavings of horseradish (No. 98) and the ends with Yorkshire 
pudding (No. 770). Serve thickened gravy (No. 405) well skimmed and strained through a fine 
sieve, in a separate sauce-boat, also some baked potatoes 


(1814), BREAST OR BRISKET OF BEEF A LA FLORENCE (Poitrine ou Bavette de Bouf & la 
Florence). 


The name of brisket is applied to the part of the beef adjoining the cross ribs, and the 
neck. If the beef be of a good quality, the plate or brisket makes an excellent and economical 
boil, the meat being juicy and interlarded with fat giving it a very good flavor. 

Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan, and when warm, add half a pound of lean 
bacon and half a pound of ham cut into squares of a half of an inch. When the bacon and ham 
are well browned, add four ounces of onions cut into an eighth of an inch squares, and two pounds: 
of brisket of beef well freed from fat, boned and cut into one inch squares. Add a bunch of parsley, 
also thyme, bay leaf and a small clove of garlic, two cloves, two celery heads cut in quarters and 
trimmed and some stewed tomatoes. Moisten with a little broth (No. 194a), cook for two hours and 
a half, adding a little more broth at times, and serve on a dish garnished around with gastro- 
nome potatoes (No. 2789). 


(1315), CORNED BREAST OF BEEF WITH CABBAGE (Poitrine de Beuf Salé aux Choux). 


Lay a breast of beef in a brine of half salt, and set it in a cold room, leaving it for twelve 
days. Unsalt it for two hours, then put the meat in a saucepan with cold water. Let it boil, 
skimming it occasionally, and place it on one side of the fire to simmer for several hours, or until 
the meat be thoroughly cooked. Blanch two or three cabbages, cut them in quarters, remove the 
hard centers, called the core, and two hours before serving put the cabbage in with the beef. When 
the meat is done properly, drain, and arrange it on a dish, garnishing it round with the cabbage, 


put some boiled potatoes at either end, and serve a little good gravy separately. 
(471) 


472 


OO ED SUP GO Wo rt 


THE EPICUREAN. 


BEEF, AMERICAN CUTS (Beuf Coupe & l'Américaine). 





Head. 

Beef jowl. 
Neck. 
Brisket. 
Cross ribs. 
Shin. 
Chuck ribs. 
Plates. 


% 3 
* 
ie) i ere 
b 
ZS 
(Fia. 302.) 

9. Navel. 17%. 
10. Inside flank. 18. 
11. Thick flank. 19. 
12. Six Prime ribs, A first cut, 20. 

B second cut, C third. 21, 
13. Short loin.. 22. 
14. Hip. ; 23. 
15. Round. 24, 
16. Aitchbone rump. 


23 


Round bottom. \ 
Leg of beef. 

Butt. 

Oxtail. 

Horseshoe legs. 

Hip and loin. 

Whole chuck. 

Round top. 


BEEF FRENCH CUTS (Bouf Coupe a la Frangaise), 





Culotte. 

Tranches petit os. 

Milieu du gite a la noix. 
Derriere du gite a la noix. 


rieure. 


. Tranche grasse intérieure. 
. Piece ronde partie intérieure. 
. Aloyau avec filet. 

. Bavette d’Aloyau. 


10. 
vik 
12. 
D 13. 
rendre de tranches inté- 14. 


15. 
16. 


17. 
18. 


(Fie, 303.) 

Cotes Couvertes, 4 la noix. 19. 
Plat de Cdtes. 20. 
Surlonge partie intérieure. 21. 
Derriére de paleron. 22. 
Talon de Collier. 23. 
Bande de Macreuse. 24, 
Milieu de Macreuse dans le 25. 

paleron. 26. 
Boite a molele. — 27. 


Collier. 


Plat de joue. 

Flanchet. 

Milieu de poitrine. 

Cros bout. 

Queue de gite. 

Gite de devant. 

Cros du gite de devant. 
Gite de derriére. 

Cros du gite de derriére. 





BEEF. , 473 


BEEF AMERICAN CUTS. 


Sippy B= 


~ Round Bottom 









Leg of Beef 


























Hip 





Fillet 


--==e= Short Loin 


Brisket--4* ¥ > |3 ; 
risket.--\ ‘ = 
Ay i 


Fig. 304. 


(1316), CORNED ROUND BOTTOM, TOP, ENGLISH STYLE (Noix de Boeuf Salée Ecarlate % 
l'Anglaise), 

Bone and prick the meat with a larding needle, rub it over with pulverized saltpetre, 
salt, and brown sugar, then put it in an earthern vessel or a wooden tub, pouring over a brine 
prepared as follows: Throw a potato into salted water; when it rises to the surface it is an 
indication that the brine is sufficiently strong; pour enough of this over the meat to cover entirely 
and set it in a cool place where the thermometer does not register above forty degrees, leaving 
it for fifteen days, and carefully turning the meat over at various intervals. When ready to be 
used, drain the corned beef, wash, then boil in plenty of water. For a six-pound piece it will 
take about two hours and a half. After cooking for one hour, add to it a pudding made of flour 
and beef suet, also cabbage, onions, and pared carrots and turnips. Three-quarters of an hour 
before serving, throw in some medium sized peeled potatoes; range the corned meat on a dish, 
garnish around with the cabbage, carrots, turnips, and onions arranged in clusters, and at the 


‘ 


474 THE EPICUREAN. 


ends place the pudding cut into slices. Pour into the bottom of the dish a clear gravy (No. 404). 
The quantity of water requisite to cook the corned beef depends entirely upon the quantity of salt 
used, and the length of time the beef was in the brine; if the beef is very salty, it will require 
more water than otherwise, and it is even advisable to change it after the first boil. 


(1317), EDGEBONE OR AITOHBONE, BOILED CREAM HORSERADISH SAUCE (Quasi de Beuf 
bouilli Sauce Raifort 4 la Créme), | 
Edgebone or aitchbone, is a bone of the rump which in dressed beef presents itself in view 
edgewise; it is also called aitchbone. mie | 
Have a piece of the edgebone weighing twelve pounds; put it ina soup pot capable of 
holding twice the quantity the sizeof the meat. Oover with some good broth (No. 194a), place it 
on the hot fire to bring to a boil, salt to taste, skim well, and add two pounds of carrots, or four — 
medium sized ones, two fine turnips, a four ounce onion stuck with two cloves, six leeks, half a 
medium sized parsnip, a small handful of celery and. one cabbage. Simmer slowly for three or 
four hours, and when the meat,is cooked, drain and dish it. up, laying the carrots and turnips cut 
into pieces, also the cabbage nicely trimmed, {pound the sides, and green sprigs of parsley at the 
ends. Serve separately a cream horseradish. ic 0. ; 478). 






Tes 


Vy Ye Baty he eee ‘ene 
(1318), KULASH A LA FINN OISE (Guylas & la Finnoise), | 
Cut a pound of trimmed tenderloin of.beef in inch squares, also two ounces of one-eighth of 
an inch squares of onions. Put four ounces of butter into a sauté-pan, and when hot, add first the- 
onions and then the beef; season with salt and paprika (a Hungarian pepper), moisten witha 
little good gravy (No. 404), and cook for one hour and a half, adding a little espagnole sauce: 
(No. 414). 


Another way is to use a pound of lean tenderloin, cut in inch squares, half a pound of the breast 
of bacon cut in half inch squares, a pound of potatoes cut in half inch squares, a quarter of a pound 
of onions in one-eighth of an inch squares, frying them in half a pound of butter. Put in first the- 
beef, then the potatoes, salt, pepper, and spice, add a pint of good gravy (No. 404), cover hermeti-: 
cally, and cook slowly for one hour and a half. 


(13819) MARROW BONES ON TOAST (Moelle sur Crotites Grillées), 


Scrape and clean well some marrow bones (the best marrow bones are found in the round,. 
the second best in the hind legs). Saw them off in three and a half inch length pieces; wrap them: 
in a cloth, and plunge them in boiling broth; let it continue to boil for twenty minutes, then drain 
and serve the bones containing the marrow on a folded napkin, and slices of toasted bread 
separately, or take out the marrow, and serve it on slices of toast without the bones. 


(1320), OXTAILS A LA OASTELLANE (Queues de Bosuf & la Castellane), 


Cut some large oxtails in three inch lengths, soak for an hour, drain, and blanch the. 
pieces for half an hour, then throw them into cold water. Mask the bottom of a saucepan with 
fragments of bacon, roots, and sliced onions. Put the pieces of tails on top, and moisten with 
sufficient broth to cover them entirely; boil the liquid, skim, and let simmer slowly for three hours. 
Drain them, trim, and return to the saucepan; strain and remove the fat from the broth, pour it over: 
the tails, and finish cooking slowly for one hour. Braise some whole chestnuts (No. 654), and wher 
done, arrange the oxtails pyramid form on a dish, surround by the braised chestnuts, reduce the 
stock with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and some blanched celery cut into quarter of an inch 
squares; when it is cooked pour the sauce over and serve. 


(1321) OXTATLS A LA OHIPOLATA (Queues de Boeuf & la Chipolata), 


Prepare and cook the oxtails the same as indicated in oxtails & la castellane (No. 1320), glaze- 
them with meat glaze, dish them, garnishing around with broiled sausages & la Chipolata (No. 
754), some braised salt pork cut in squares, some small glazed onions (No. 2765), balls of carrots, 
whole chestnuts, celery roots cut in cloves of garlic form, and some mushroom heads; the vege- 
‘ables blanched and cooked separately in the oxtail broth. Pour over this same broth free of all its. 
‘at, and reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and Madeira. 





BEEF. 47S 


(1322), OXTAILS ALSATIAN STYLE (Queues de Boeuf & I’Alsacienne), 


Cut the oxtail at a joint of the bone in three inch lengths. Soak them in lukewarm water for: 
one hour, changing the water twice during the time, then throw them in cold water, and drain. 
Mask the bottom of a saucepan with fragments of ham and bacon, roots and sliced onions; set the- 
pieces of oxtail on top, and cover them up entirely with broth leaving the fat on, anda little brandy. 
Four hours before dinner boil the liquid, skim, then set the pot in the oven to finish. When ready, 
strain the broth through a very fine sieve, remove all the fat, and let it rest quietly without stirring. 
Decant it carefully, pouring it over the oxtails, and leave it until nearly cold, then lift them out; 
trim the pieces and dip them in melted butter. Roll them in fresh bread-crumbs and broil them. 
on a very slow fire. Arrange them over some cooked sauerkraut (No. 2819), garnishing the dish, 
and serving a good gravy separate. 


(1323). FRIED OXTAILS (Queues de Boouf Frites), 


Select in preference the thickest end of six oxtails, cut them in pieees three inches long, so as. 
to strike the joints. Soak them for one hour, drain, then throw them into boiling, salted water, 
and let cook for half anhour. Drain again, and set them ina saucepan with a pound of onions, 
and two pounds of carrots, all cut into slices, three quarts of broth, two garnished bou- 
quets, salt and pepper; let boil slowly for three hours and a half; by that time they should be welk 
done, if not, let them continue boiling longer. When cooked, put them in an earthen dish, strain. 
the broth over the meat; and when three quarters cold, drain, dip them in eggs, then in bread- 
crumbs and fry them in very hot fat until they attain a good color. Serve a tomato sauce (No.. 
549), at the same time but separately. 


(1324), OXTAILS HOCHEPOT (Queues de Boouf Hochepot), 


Divide the oxtails at the joints of the bone on the thick end, while at the thin end leave two: 
joints together. Soak them in warm water for one hour, changing it several times, then draim 
and wipe them, and lay them in a brazier lined with slices of bacon and ham. Moisten with suffi- 
cient mirepoix stock (No. 419) to cover them entirely, adding a gill of brandy, an onion, a carrot, a 
garnished bouquet, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Four hours before serving let it come to a boil 
on a very hot fire, then cover and let simmer on one side for three hours. Strain the broth through. 
a fine sieve, skim off the fat, and reduce it to the consistency of a light half-glaze, then pour it ina 
stewpan with the pieces of well trimmed oxtails. Simmer, then turn it on a dish, arranging it 
high, and garnish it round with clusters of pear-shaped pieces of glazed carrots, the same of turnips,. 
some small onions, chestnuts, celery root, all cooked separately in a little broth, and left to glaze.. 
Add to the garnish some green pickles cut and shaped like olives. 


(1825), OXTAILS WITH VEGETABLES (Queues de Boeuf aux Légumes), 


Prepare and cook the oxtails as explained in ala Hochepot (No. 1324), only adding half a 
pound more of salt pork. When the meat is cooked, dish it up with the salt pork as garnishing, 
also carrots, turnips, celery knobs, all blanched and cooked in the broth, and two clusters of 
braised cabbage. Strain, skim, and reduce the broth so as to have it succulent, then pour some: 
of it over the dish, and send the rest to the table in a sauce-boat. 


(1326), BEEF PALATES A LA BEOHAMEL ‘Palais de Bouf & la Béchamel). 


Remove the black parts from twelve beef palates; soak them in warm water, adding a little: 
salt. Place them on aslow fire and when the white skin can be detached, then drain and scrape: 
them with a knife in order to remove properly the skin adhering to the palate. Throw them as. 
soon as done into cold water, then drain them, and put thein to cook in some broth (No. 194a), 
adding a bunch of parsley, finely minced carrots, onions stuck with cloves. Leave them to cook 
for five or six hours, then drain and lay them under a weight. Cut them in one and a quarter 
inch squares, then prepare a béchamel sauce (No. 409), neither too thick nor too thin, warm the- 
palates in the sauce, season with salt and ground pepper, and stir in a piece of butter just wnem 
ready to serve. 


476 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1327). BEEF PALATES BAKED, CHEVREUSE (Palais de Bouf au Gratin, 4 la Chevreuse), 


Prepare and cook the palates the same as for & la béchamel (No. 1326), put under a weight, 
when cold cut them into squares four by two and one-half inches. Cover each piece with a layer 
of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine herbs (No. 385), roll them up, and arrange them in but- 
tered tin rings two and one-half inches high by one and three-quarters inches in diameter. Pug 
them in a sautoir moistened with veal blond (No. 423). Set them in a slow oven for twenty 
minutes, unmold and dress crown-shaped on a dish; cover with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), — 
leaving an opening in the center, smooth the surface with a knife, pour over some melted butter, 
and sprinkle grated parmesan cheese on top. Put this into a slow oven to brown well, and just 
when sending it to the table pour into the center a garnishing a la Chevreuse (No. 655). 


(1328), BEEF PALATES IN TORTUE (Palais de Boouf en Tortue), 


Prepare the beef palates as explained in & la béchamel (No. 1326), lay them under a weight, 
then cut in oval-shaped pieces three and one-half by two inches, either with a knife or a pastry 
cutter. Cover one side with a dome-shaped layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), mixing in with it 
a fourth of its quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Lay them in a stewpan one beside the 
other, the forcemeat side on top, and pour into the bottom of the pan a good half-glaze (No. 
400) with Madeira, and heat slowly in a mild oven. When the forcemeat is hard to the touch, — 
cover the surface with some Madeira sauce, return the palates to the oven for one moment to glaze, 
then arrange them crown-shaped round the bottom of a dish hollow in the center and raised edges. 
Fill the center with a garnishing made as follows: To some Madeira sauce (No. 492), add a pinch 
of cayenne pepper, some forcemeat quenelles, a few pickled gherkins cut olive-shaped, turned 
mushrooms heads (No. 118), slices of cooked veal tongue one inch in diameter by an eighth of an - 
inch in thickness. Garnish the edge of the dish with fried egg-yolks and small larded and glazed — 
sweet-breads (No. 1575). . 


(1329), RIBS OF BEEF A LA BRISTED (Cotes de Bouf & la Bristed), 


Choose a piece of rib, the meat of it being a pink color and well mortified. Remove the 
flesh from the spine, saw off the bone at the end of each rib, bone these at the side of the breast, 
being careful not to injure the layer of fat covering it, then saw off the bones six inches from the 
spine; now fold the boned piece over the other one, and in order to keep it in shape, tie firmly 
with twelve rounds of string, knotting it each time it goes round the meat. Garnish the bottom 
of a brazier with bardes of fat pork, and slices of ham, and lay theribson top. Moisten with four 
quarts of broth (No. 194a), and half a pint of Madeira wine; set around it two carrots cut lengthwise 
in four, two stalks of celery, two medium sized onions with two cloves in each, one bunch of parsley 
garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mace, salt and whole peppers. Let boil slowly for three and 
a half to four hours, basting frequently with its own juice, and glaze a fine color. Strain the 
gravy, skim off the fat and reduce it with the same quantity of brown Spanish sauce (No. 414), 
and half a pint of Madeira wine. Lay the piece of meat on a dish, garnish around with stuffed 
tomatoes (No. 2842), and stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), and slip into the bottom of the dish one- 
third of its own sauce. Serve at the same time the rest of it in a sauce-bowl, after having mingled 
in a piece of good butter. 


(1330), RIBS OF BERF A L’HINDOSTAN (Oétes de Boouf & !Indostan), 


Prepare the piece of beef exactly the same as for the beef American style (No. 1831); set it in 

a dish with round slices of onions, sprigs of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, mignonette, a glassful 
of sweet oil and a little vinegar. Leave it to marinate for two hours, turning the meat over several 
times in its pickle, then wrap the marinade up in several sheets of strong buttered paper, also the 
meat, and cook as explained in the American beef (No. 1331). Wash two pounds of rice in tepid 
waver, blanch for one minute in boiling water,and put it into a saucepan; moisten with three pints of 
broth (No. 194a), add three-quarters of a pound of butter, an infusion of saffron, salt, and cayenne 
pepper; boil and finish cooking for three-quarters of an hour in the oven; when the rice is done, 
‘ake away the sixth part, which must be put in a saucepan, adding to it some allemande sauce 
. 207). and then let it get cool. Use this rice to make small croquettes for garnishing. Lay the 

Ice oft he rice on the dish with the ribs, surrounding it with the small croquettes. Serve at 

ne time a sauce-boat full of thickened gravy (No. 405). 





BEEF. AU? 


(1331), RIBS OF BEEF OF THIRTY-TWO POUNDS, AMERICAN STYLE (Gétes de Breuf de trente. 
deux livres, 4 ]’Américaine), 


These ribs lay next to the short loin, on the side near the neck; in veal and mutton this part is: 
called the rack; the ribs are the most desirable part of the beef, and are either roasted or braised. 
Choose the ribs from a tender, well mortified piece of meat, saw off the projecting part of the spine. 
To roast on the spit, it must be wrapped up or packed in several sheets of strong, greased paper; 
tie with several turns of string, lay it in a cradle spit (Fig. 116) to cook, which will take about 
three hours and a half before a good, regular fire. Half an hour before removing from the 
spit, remove the paper, let brown nicely, then put it on a heater to keep warm for forty- 
five minutes before serving. To roast in the oven, place the ribs in a baking pan, pour on 
some fat, and roast it for four hours, carefully basting several times during the cooking; 
salt and set it on a heater to keep warm three-quarters of an hour before serving. When 
sending the roast to table serve with it a sauce-bowl of good thickened gravy (No. 405) and 
a dish of mellow potatoes, prepared as follows: Cook some potatoes in salted water for 
thirty minutes, drain and press them through a colander, adding half an ounce of butter for each 
pound of potatoes. Form this purée into balls an inch and a half in diameter, lay them on a 
buttered pan, pour over some more butter, and brown them in the oven. Serve them at the same 
time as the roast beef. The time for cooking different sizes is: For a cut of five pounds, forty 
minutes, then keep in hot closet for fifteen minutes longer; for a cut of ten pounds one hour, keep 
in hot closet twenty minutes; for a cut of fifteen pound one hour and three-quarters, keep in hot 
closet twenty-five minutes; for a cut of twenty pounds, two hours and one-quarter, then keep in a 
hot closet thirty minutes; for twenty-five pounds, two hours and a half, then keep in a hot closet 
thirty-five minutes; for a cut of thirty pounds, three hours, then keep in a hot closet forty minutes. 


(1832), RIBS OF BEEF, OLD STYLE (Cotes de Boeuf & la Vieille Mode), 

Cut a rib of beef with the bone, one rib to the piece, the same as a veal or mutton cutlet, lard: 
the lean part of the meat with small strips of fat pork; season with salt, pepper, spices and chopped. 
parsley. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan on the fire; when the butter is hot set 
in the rib of beef and let it color on one side then on the other. When half done place the lid on 
the saucepan, and push into the oven; as soon as cooked dish up the rib, strain and skim off the fat 
from the gravy in the saucepan, then pour it over the meat garnished around with potatoes a la 
Frangaise. 


(1833), DEVILED SPARE RIBS OF BEEF (Cotes de Bouf a la Diable), 


Use the spare bones of a piece of a cold roast rib of beef. Take out the bones without remoy- 
ing too much of the meat around them, then season with salt and pepper, rubbing the surface over 
with mustard. Roll them in fresh bread raspings, drop some butter over, and broil on a slow fire; 
lay them on a dish, pouring over a little thickened gravy (No. 405). 


(1884), ROUND BUTTOCK TOP SMOTHERED (Tendre de Tranches 4 l’Estouffade). 


Lard a buttock-top of ten to twelve pounds, with large slices of larding pork, season it with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg. Line a brazier with slices of fat pork, some raw, lean ham, sliced carrots 
and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Place the meat on top 
of this garnishing, and set around it three calves’ feet, split lengthwise through the center, 
moisten with a pint of white wine and broth (No. 194a), boil, cover the stewpan, and reduce the 
stock to a glaze, which degree can easily be told when the fat becomes clarified, and the vegetables 
begin to attach themselves to the pan. Moisten again slowly with some more broth, cover the 
brazier hermetically and let simmer in a slow oven for five or six hours, according to the size of 
the buttock; when cooked, strain the gravy, remove the fat from it and reduce. Glaze well the 
meat, bone the calves’ feet, set them under a weight, after filling them with cooked fine herbs (No. 
385). When cold, cut them up into square pieces, season with salt and pepper, oil and vinegar, dip 
them into a frying batter (No.137), and fry to a fine color, lay the meat on a dish, garnish around 
with the fried pieces of calves’ feet, and serve the gravy separately in a sauce-bowl. 


(1335), ROUND BUTTOCK TOP BAKED (Noix de Bouf Gratinée). 


Have a piece of the round top braized and cold, weighing two pounds; cut it into equal sized 
slices, not having them too thin; put in a stewpan or on a dish, piece by piece, the slices one 
on top of the other, and baste with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413); cover with a second dish, 


478 THE EPICUREAN. 


and set to warm in a slow oven. Mince half a pound of cooked mushrooms, fry them in butter, 
drain off the latter, and add a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), four heaping tablespoonfuls of 
grated horseradish, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, also a large pinch of chopped parsley. 
‘After the meat is warm, lift out the slices one by one, lay them on a long dish one beside the other, 
eovering each separate slice with a part of the above preparation. When the meat has been 
replaced into its natural shape, cover-it entirely with the remainder, besprinkle over with rasped 
bread-crumbs, and put to bake in a moderate oven, basting it frequently with the gravy the meat | 
was warmed in. Garnish the border with potato croquettes (No. 2782), ball-shaped, and each one 
an inch in diameter. 





(1336), ROUND BUTTOOK TOP, PARISIAN STYLE (Noix de Beuf a la Mode de Paris), 


Lard a round top of beef of from ten to twelve pounds with large lardings of pork, season 
with pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley; line a brazier (stewpan) with slices of pork, set the 
meat on top, and put the pot without its cover into a hot oven. When the meat is well colored, 
moisten with some broth (No. 194a), adding a garnished bunch of parsley with thyme, bay leaf, 
and a clove of garlic. It will take from five to six hours to cook, according to the size of the piece 
of meat, and after it is well done, drain off the gravy, strain it through a fine sieve, remove all the 
fat, and reduce it in order to obtain a rich gravy; take away one third of this. Add to the re- 
maining two-thirds, a purée of tomatoes (No. 780), also some espagnole sauce (No. 414). Dress the 
beef on a dish, surround it with small carrots cut pear-shaped, and previously blanched and 
cooked in a very little white broth (No. 194a), so that they are reduced to a glaze, also some small 
glazed onions. Pour some of the gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a separate sauce- 
bowl. A sirloin of beef can be used instead of the round top. 


(18387), RUMP OF BEEF A LA BOUGICAULT (Pointe de Gulotte & la Boucicault), 


The rump or hip of beef is placed on the exterior side of the spine, at the lower extremity; it 
‘commences where the loin ends and finishes at the beginning of the tail. The rump of beef is the 
most delicate part of the hind quarter; it is excellent for boiling or braising purposes, also for 
corning. 

Bone a sixteen pound piece of the rump of beef, trim off the fat, season with salt and mi- 
enonette, roll it lengthwise and tie, then set it in a brazier, and moisten to twice its height with some 
broth (No. 194a); heat the liquid, skim it carefully; at the first boil, remove the brazier, so that the 
broth only simmers gently, adding six medium carrots, three turnips, two onions, six leeks, and two 
‘stalks of celery. Let continue to cook for five hours; after three hours add two pieces of salt bacon, of 
one pound each, parboiled for twenty minutes; let the whole simmer for two hours or more until 
the meat is perfectly cooked, then strain the liquor, skim off the fat, add a little espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), and reduce to the consistency of thick gravy. Glaze the piece of meat; dress on a large 
dish, and garnish the side with knob celery braised and glazed, sautéd Brussels sprouts, the bacon 
cut in slices dressed on’each side of the sprouts, and celery; at the end slices of beef tongue (un- 
smoked) coated on both sides with thick soubise sauce (No. 548), breaded and fried; pour over 
part of the gravy, send the rest of the gravy in one or two separate sauce-boats. 


(1338) RUMP A LA CAREME (Pointe de Oulotte & la Oaréme), 


Bone and pare a piece of rump of beef weighing twenty pounds; remove the fat, and trim it 
so that it is much longer than its width; cover it with suet, roll lengthwise and tie it with fourteen : 
rounds of the string, making a knot at each round. Put the rump of beef into a saucepan with i‘ 
half a pound of melted fat pork; brown slowly, turning it over frequently. Remove the meat : 
after it is a nice color, drain off the grease, and cover the bottom of the sauce-pan with a thin . 
layer of chopped onions and carrots, set the meat on top, moisten with a pint of broth (No. | 
194a) and half a bottle of sauterne wine, reduce the moisture to a glaze, and moisten again to the 
height of the meat with some good broth. Boil up the liquid, skim, and add a bunch of parsley 
garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with salt, pepper and cloves. Oook 
slowly for five hours, carefully moistening it at times with hot broth so as to keep the liquor half 
of the heighth of the meat; drain off the gravy, skim off the fat, and add a pint of Madeira sauce 

No. 492) reduced and strained. Untie, pare, glaze and dish up the piece of meat, pour around it 
third of the sauce, garnish around with stuffed mushroom heads (No. 650), sautéd lamb’s 
vectpreads, and rice croquettes with parmesan. Serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce- boat. ; 


i 
4 
| 





BEEF. 479 


(1339), RUMP OF BEEF A LA CHATELLIER (Pointe de Culotte de Bouf & la Chatellier), 


Pieces of boiled beef are only to be served at family dinners. Select a rump of beef weighing 
twenty pounds, having it exceedingly fresh; bone, roll up, and tie. Lay it in a stock pot, and 
moisten plentifully with broth (No. 194a); boil, skim carefully, then continue to boil slowly and 
regularly for five hours. After it has cooked three hours, put into a net four pounds of carrots, 
and two pounds of turnips (both pared and cooked cork-shaped), also one onion with five cloves in 
it, eight leeks, a stalk of celery, and half a parsnip; set the net containing these vegetables into 
the stock pot, and let cook with the beef. Blanch separately a quartered cabbage, drain, put it 
into a separate saucepan and moisten with some very fat broth taken from the pot: let cook for an 
hour, and just when ready to serve, drain the meat, untie, brush over with meat glaze (No. 402) 
and glaze in the oven to a fine color; garnish the ends with the drained cabbage, arrange the 
carrots and turnips in clusters on both sides, and at one side set some mellow potatoes (No. 2799), 
and at the other side some stuffed peppers (No. 2768); have a horseradish sauce (No. 478) served 
separately; glaze the meat once more, and serve very hot. 


(1340). RUMP OF BEEP, BOURGEOISE STYLE (Pointe de Culotte de Beuf & la Mode Bourgeoise) 


Have six pounds of rump of beef, or use instead a piece of sirloin; remove all the fat 
‘and sinews, lard it, following the grain of the meat, with fat pork, and season with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg and chopped parsley. Place the meat in an earthen bowl, with sliced carrots and 
‘onions, pour over half a pint of brandy, and let macerate eight hours in a cool place, turning it 
over frequently. Drain and wipe off any moisture adhering thereon, then tie, and set itin a sauce- 
pan with some melted pork. Roast it until the meat is well seized and browned, then moisten 
with half a bottle of white wine; reduce to half and add sufficient broth (No. 194a) to cover the 
meat, set round it two boned and blanched calf’s feet, a bunch of parsley garnished with 
thyme and bay leaf, mace, whole peppers, three carrots and two medium onions, with four cloves 
in them and the brandy. Boil up, then skim, continue to boil slowly or else put in the oven to 
‘simmer for two hours and a half. Drain the meat, untie and trim it, straining the gravy through 
‘a tammy, replace the meat in the saucepan with an abundant quantity of carrots cut into three- 
‘quarter of an inch balls, then blanched, and some glazed onions; pour over the stock, also some 
broth, so that they be entirely covered at the bottom. Boil and finish cooking slowly in the oven, 
‘drain, glaze the meat, and set it on a dish; garnish around with the small glazed onions and the 
carrots; strain the juice, free it from fat, and reduce until it becomes thoroughly succulent, then 
pour a part of it over the meat, and serve the rest separately in a sauce-boat. 


(1841), RUMP OF BEEF, FLEMISH STYLE (Pointe de Culotte de Boouf a la Flamande), 


Have the meat prepared and cooked the same as for a la Boucicault (No. 1337), using the pork, 
‘but no vegetables. Cut up some carrots pear-shaped, about four pounds in all, as many turnips 
ut into one inch in diameter balls; also a four-pound cabbage cut in four, blanch each sepaately 
and diyide it into twenty small,.parts,. tying eC ach’ ‘one together with a coarse thread. Lay the 
cabbages in a row in the center of alow saucepan, through’its entire length, set in the turnips 
‘on one side and the carrots: ‘on the other, dilute. with just sufficient stock from the meat to cover 
the vegetables,* and one hour and a half before serving, place over them a heavy-piece of buttered 
paper. Boil on’ a very slow fire, or in the oven, and when the vegetables are cooked, serve up — 
‘the piece of meat, and set on one'side.of it half of the carrots and turnips, laying the other half 
on the other side, alternating them so as to vary the colors. Place the cabbages at the two ends, 
and ‘ay on them the salt pork cut into slices. Reduce the gravy to the consistency of a light half- 
glaze, moisten the meat with a part of it, and serve the rest in two sauce-boats. 


(1342), RUMP OF BEEF, GREEK STYLE (Pointe de Culotte de boeuf 4 la Grecque), 


Prepare and cook a piece of beef as explained for ala Caréme (No. 1338); glaze and place 
around it a garnishing of tomatoes, Greek style, prepared as explained below; serve at the same 
time the praise stock, strained, skimmed and reduced. 

Stuffed Tomatoes, Greek Style.—Chop very fine one pound of lean beef, veal or lamb with two 
ounces of beef suet; bake two large onions till quite brown, chop them up with the meat, adding pep- 
per, salt and a little water; cook the whole in a deep pan for two hours, then add a little butter and 
a lump of sugar, and continue cooking until quite dry, stirring it occasionally. Cut a piece off the 
top of some tomatoes, scoop out the centers, fill with the preparation, put back the covers, and 


480 : THE EPICUREAN. 


rub them over with a little flour and powdered sugar. Place the tomatoes in a pan with smalk 
pits of butter spread over each. Pass the insides removed from the tomatoes through a sieve, add 
to this a little butter and a tablespoonful of oil, pour this into the pan, and bake the tomatoes. 
slowly; they must be slightly browned when done. This same meat dressing can be utilized for 


stuffing cabbages or egg-plant. 


(1343), RUMP OF BEEF, J ARDINIERE (Pointe de Culotte de Bouf Jardiniare), 


Braise a rump aitchbone of beef, after it is done drain it to pare, decreasing the thickness of 
the layer of fat covering the meat and cut it away underneath so that the slices will not be too: 
wide; now divide it into uniform slices not too thin; reshape the piece to its original form and lay 
it on a baking dish with a part of its stock strained, skimmed and mingled with a few spoonfuls of 
Madeira, then reduced to a half-glaze; stand it in a mild oven and glaze while basting frequently. 
Apart from this prepare a garnishing of braised lettuce, small braised carrots, small flowerets of 
cauliflower all of one size and cut up string beans, besides some thick slices of cucumbers lightly 
scooped out on one side; then blanched, stuffed and glazed. At the last moment remove the rump, 
stand it on a long dish arranging it in a half circle, then dress the garnishings symmetrically in 
the hollow of the half circle. Place the stuffed cucumbers the whole length on the outside of the 
meat, forming them into a chain; glaze the slices of beef with a brush, slip a few spoonfuls of the 
reduced stock in the bottom of the dish and serve the surplus well reduced separately. 


(1344), RUMP OF BEEF, MIROTONS A LA MENAGERE (Pointe de Boeuf Mirotons & la 
Ménagére), 

For mirotons take six ounces of either cold braised or cold boiled beef. Mince two ounces of 
onions, or one medium-sized onion, also a small shallot; fry them in butter with a whole clove of 
garlic and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Dilute with a little white. 
wine and some brown sauce (No. 414), boil for twenty minutes, then remove the bunch of herbs. 
and garlic. Season and place the sliced beef in a stewpan; pour the prepared sauce over, and let 
simmer for fifteen minutes, then lay it on a dish and cover the meat with the sauce and sprinkle 
chopped parsley over. 


(1345), RUMP OF BEEF, MODERN STYLE—BRAISED (Pointe de Bouf Braisé 4 la Moderne), 


Pare an aitchbone of beef, suppressing all the bones; roll lengthwise, tie and lay it in a long 
saucepan with melted fat pork; let it fry slowly for half an hour, turning it over frequently; season, 
then take the meat from the pan, spread on the bottom of this same saucepan a thick layer of 
minced vegetables and onions and replace the meat over, moisten with three or four gills of broth; 
let reduce very slowly and wet it again with as much white wine, then reduce toa glaze. Now 


SS 


= <i 
Thi lal 
aa 





moisten the meat to its height with broth, boil up the liquid, skimming well the tat from the sur- 
face and cover the Saucepan; stand it ina slack oven and have the meat cook until well done 


Which will take at least five hours. Put the meat on a baking dish to truss and pare; strain the 
stock, suppress its fat and add broth to it should there not be sufficient and reduce it if 
there be too much. Return the meat to a narrower saucepan, pour the stock over and add a glass- 
ful of Madeira or Marsala wine; finish to cook in a slack oven basting it at times so that it assumes. 
glaze; it should be tender and finely colored. When prepared to serve, drain the meat and cut 
nto well formed transversal slices of even thickness, dress these on a foundation of rice 


I 


ied on a long dish and surround with a garnishing prepared beforehand and having it. 
metrieally arr: vant ‘ . : 
\ctrically arranged. At the end of the dish where the narrow slices of the beef begin fasten a 





BEEF. 481 


small fried bread support and in it stick a skewer garnished with cut vegetables and a round truffle. 
The garnishing around the meat consists of eight small chartreuses of vegetables, a dozen ball- 
shaped croquettes and a dozen thick slices of cucumbers hollowed out and stuffed, each one to be 
decorated with a slice of truffle cut out with a vegetable cutter. Serve at the same time as the 
Temove a sauce-boatful of the strained, skimmed and reduced stock in which the beef was cooked. 
This dish is prepared to have served to the guests at a dinner party. 


(1346), ROAST BEEF—MIDDLE SHORT LOIN--ENGLISH STYLE (Rosbif d’Aloyau & l’Anglaise), 


Cut along the vertebra and toward the top of the back a piece containing the greater 
part of the tenderloin, from the end rib to the hip; this part called the middle short loin, 
and is the choice piece for roasting; it is used in the best houses in England and France. 
The meat must be selected from a young and tender beef of deep crimson color and veined 
with slices of fat. Cut from the center a piece weighing, ten, twenty, or thirty pounds, more 
or less, according to the number of guests to be supplied, cut away the fat, and a piece of the flank 
seasoning with salt and pepper, and fold the flank over; the meat should be the same thickness 
throughout. Tie it well, makinga knot at each turn of the string. It can be wrapped up in several 
sheets of buttered-paper. A piece of beef roasted on the spit is far preferable to one cooked in the 
oven. It suffices to place it in the middle of an English cradle spit (Fig. 116), but sometimes 














ma 





Fie. 306. 


it is impossible to cook it in this way. Therefore the most practicai manner is to cook it as follows: 
Set it in a deep pan with raised edges, and furnished with a grate slightly raised on four feet an 


‘inch and a half high (Fig. 306). Pour into the pana few spoonfuls of fat, put the meat on the: 


grate, and roast it in a moderate oven allowing for a short loin weighing fifteen pounds one and a 
half hours, one of twenty, two hours, and one of thirty, two and a half hours, forty pounds, three 
and a half hours, the time always to be calculated according to the regularity of the fire and the 
thickness of the meat; roast the meat, basting and turning it over frequently, add a little water in 
case the grease threatens to burn.. When nearly done salt. When the short loin is nearly cooked: 
untie, and keep in a hot closet from fifteen to forty minutes according to the size, then serve it in 
a large dish; it must be cut in slices lengthwise of the meat, beginning at the sirloin and then the 
tenderloin. ‘Serve on very hot plates with a sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404) passed around at. 


the same time. — 


_ (1847), MIDDLE SHORT LOIN BRAISED A LA MESSINOISE (Aloyau Braisé 4 la Messinoise), 


Select a short loin weighing about thirty pounds; taken from a young and tender beef, and 
prepare it as follows: remove all the fat surrounding the tenderloin, detach the tenderloin from 
the chine-bone sufficiently so as to be able to saw off the chine-bone. Cut away the aitch 
bone from the sirloin. Prick the thick flank with the tip of a small knife; flatten it; remove 
the skin from the tenderloin, also the large nerve on the sirloin, trim the loin well, leaving the 
flank wider on the thin side ot the tenderloin. Season with salt and pepper, lard the meat with 
larding pork and seasoned raw ham, roll the flank over the tenderloin, covering the latter with 
slices of fat an inch or more in thickness; tie it up, making a knot at each turn of the string, which 
must be about three-quarters of an inch apart. Cover the bottom of a buttered braising pan with 
cut slices of carrots and onions, lay the loin on top, moisten to a quarter of its height with broth, 
(No. 194a) and a quarter of a bottleful of Marsala wine, adding a quarter of a pound of sliced 


489 THE EPICUREAN. 


td 


mushrooms. Reduce toa glaze, then moisten again to three-quarters of its heighth with the 
same quantity of broth and Marsala wine as before. Cook slowly for four hours, basting it fre- 
quently with its own gravy, and when the meat is cooked, trim and lay it on a long dish, 
garnishing the sides with small macaroni Milanese timbales (No. 2988), and the ends with small 
round ravioles (No. 158). Strain the gravy, skim it carefully, reduce to the consistency of a 
quarter-glaze, then pour over the meat one-third of it, serving the rest at the same time ina 


sauce-boat. 
(1348), MIDDLE SHORT LOIN A LA NORWOOD (Aloyau & la Norwood), 


For thirty pounds, prepare the middle short loin the same as for No. 13847, but 
remove most of the fat adhering to the flank, season with salt and pepper. Put the meat in 
an earthen dish with some carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, olive oiland lemon 
juice. Macerate the whole for two hours, then remove the meat without the vegetables, tie the flank 
over the tenderloin, making a knot at each turn of the string, leaving an interval of three-quarters 
of an inch between each; wrap up the marinade with the short loin in several sheets of buttered paper, 
place it on a roast pan. with some grease at the bottom of the pan, and some minced carrots and 
onions, adding a little water; roast in the oven; when the meat is nearly done, remove the paper, 
salt it and glaze, return to the oven to attain a nice color, then set it in a warm closet for about 
twenty minutes; it will take about two and a half hours to cook it. Dish the meat up, glaze it 
again, and garnish with quartered and peeled apples, previously placed in a buttered plate, lightly 
dredged with sugar and cooked in a hot oven. Add a garnishing of small potatoes cut olive- 
shaped, blanched and cooked in butter; acd the.vegetables from the marinade, to one quart 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414), snd some good gravy (No. 404), reduce and skim free of fat, pass 
through a sieve and serve in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1349), SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA BRADFORD (Contrefilet de Bouf & la Bradford), 

Have asirloin prepared and cooked as explained for chiccory and sweet souffied potatoes (No. 1356); 
garnish the sides with small corn fritters, and decorate the ends with corn and potato croquettes. 
Serve separately some good gravy (No. 404) thickened with a little brown sauce (No. 414), also 
a sauce-boatful of horseradish cream sauce (No. 478). . 


Corn Fritters.—Cut the grain through the center the whole length of the cob, and by pressing 
on it with the dull edge of the knife, the interior of the grains can be removed without the skins; 
chop the corn up fine and mingle it with a very delicate pancake batter (No. 3072), and cook it in 
small pancakes each two inches and a half in diameter; garnish the sides of the sirloin with them, 
having one overlapping the other. 


Corn Croquettes.—Cut the corn as for corn fritters; mix the corn with two-thirds of its quantity 
of finely mashed potatoes and cream, to which add a piece of good butter, set it in a dish to get 
cold and then form it into cylinder-shaped croquettes one inch in diameter by two and one-quarter 
inches in length, dip them in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry a fine color in hot fat, 
garnish the ends of the dish with these croquettes. 


(1350), SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA DAUPHINESS (Contrefilet de Bouf a la Dauphine), 


Remove the sirloin from a piece of middle short loin, suppress the fat and nerves, and pare to 
an oblong shape keeping on the flank, lard the meats with lardons of fat pork (No. 1, Fig. 52); 
season and roll the sirloin over on itself so that the meats are enveloped; tie firmly, making a knot 
at each round of the string. Cover the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134), with slices of fat pork and 
sliced carrots and onions; over these place the sirloin. Crack two knuckles of veal, lay them around 
the meat and moisten with some good stock (No. 194a) as high as the meats; boil,skim and set it on one 
side to boil slowly, put the cover on the braziere and some lighted charcoal on this. It will take about 
three hours to cook; keep basting frequently. When the sirloin is done, untie and strain the stock 
Which should be reduced to two-thirds; lay the sirloin on a baking sheet and cover it with a Soubise 
sauce (No. 543), well reduced and thickened with raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream. Strew 
the top with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, then brown in the oven to a fine color, dress and 
decorate the ends with stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842) and the sides with Dauphine potatoes (No. 
2783). Serve separately the stock reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine. 


(1351), SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA DEGRANGE (Contrefilet de Bouf a la Dégrange). 


‘spare and cook the sirloin the same as for A la de Lesseps (No. 1352); untie, glaze and lay it 
a dish, garnishing both sides with carrots and green peas, and the ends with fried celery, strain 


Py 





BEEF. : 483 


and skim off the fat from the gravy, slip a part of it under the sirloin, serving the rest in a separate 
sauce-bowl. 

Carrots and Peas, Garnishing.—Cut some carrots with a vegetable cutter into balls of three- 
eighths of an inch in diameter; blanch and cook them in white broth (No. 194a) with a little butter 
and sugar; when the carrots are done, and the Juice well reduced, mix in an equal quantity of peas, 
thickening the whole with a little half-glaze (No. 400) and fresh butter. 


Fried Celery.—Pick out the most tender leaves in the heart of a raw celery head; cut them into 
thin strips the whole length of the stalk; they may be either blanched or used raw. Dip each piece 
in a good frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color in hot fat. 


(1352). SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA DE LESSEPS (Contrefilet de Bouf a la de Lesseps), 


Prepare a piece of sirloin as follows: Remove the sirloin from a middle short rib, remove also 
the fat and nerves, pareit to an oblong shape, roll it over on itself as shown in Fig. 307, after 
larding it with large lardons of fat pork (No. 1, Fig. 52). 
Cover the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, lay 
the meat on top and moisten to three-quarters of its 
hight with mirepoix stock (No. 419). Boil, then push the 
braziere into the oven to let cook for about three hours, 
basting it several times in the meanwhile, also turning it 
around while cooking. After the sirloin is cooked, glaze it 
over and strain the stock through a very fine sieve; skim 
off the fat carefully and reduce the stock with a little espag- 
nole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine. Dish up the sirloin 
and garnish around with one pound of rice, sauté it in a quarter of a pound of butter; moisten 
to two-thirds higher than the rice itself with unskimmed broth strained through a silk sieve; 
season well with salt, a dash of cayenne, powdered saffron, nutmeg and sweet Spanish pepper. Leave 
the rice in the oven to cook for twenty minutes, and just when ready to serve toss it up thoroughly 
with a fork; now dress it on each side of the sirloin and garnish the ends with stuffed tomatoes 
(No. 2842). Serve the reduced stock in a separate sauce-boat. 





Fig. 307. 


(1353). SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA PERRIN (Oontrefilet de Boouf& la Perrin), 


Prepare and cook the sirloin as explained in sirloin with Jerusalem artichokes (No. 1357); 
glaze and dress it on a very hot dish, garnish each side with marrow canapés, prepared 
as follows: Have slices of toasted bread three and a half by one and three-quarter inches; Jay on 
them several slices of blanched marrow, sprinkle over with very finely chopped chives, and set 
them in the oven for one minute. Garnish the sides of the dish with these, and pour over a 
Madeira sauce (No. 492); arrange at the two ends tomatoes prepared as follows: Plunge very 
ripe and firm tomatoes into boiling water, remove the skins, cut them into four parts, squeeze 
them slightly and lay them in a saucepan with some good butter, salt and ground pepper; cook 
them on a quick fire; garnish the sirloin and serve. 


(1854), SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA THIEBLIN (Oontrefilet de Bouf & la Thieblin), 


Have the sirloin prepared and cooked .as explained in the de Lesseps (No. 1352). Dress and 
glaze it, garnishing each side with red cabbage, prepared as explained below, and the ends with 
‘Sarah potatoes (No. 2802). Strain and skim the fat from the gravy, reduce it and serve it in a separate 
sauce-boat. Cut a red cabbage into quarters, remove the hard center, and shave the balance fine; 
blanch, then drain and put it into a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, bay leaf and a medium 
sized onion cut in one-eighth of an inch squares; let cook slowly for three hours, stirring it several 
times in the meanwhile with a spoon. Take out the bay leaf and add a piece of butter and some 
slices of apples previously cooked in butter. 


(1355). SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH BRAIN PATTIES (Contrefilet de Bouf aux Bouchées de 
Cervelles), 

Prepare and cook a sirloin as mentioned in (No. 1357), glaze and lay it on a very hot dish, 
and pour a little good gravy over. Serve separately some patties filled with brains cut in small 
squares combined with as much mushrooms cut the same, sautéing both in butter, Beeson with 
salt, pepper, chopped parsley and finish with well buttered velouté sauce (No. 415). Serve also at 
the same time a sauce-boat of half-glaze with Madeira (No. 400), having it well buttered. 


484 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1356), SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH CHICORY AND SOUEFLED SWEET POTATOES (Contrefilet: 


de Bouf aux Endives et aux Patates Soufflées), ; 


Take the sirloin from a short loin, remove a part of the flank so as to give it an oblong shape; 


also a part of the fat, and all the sinews from the covered part. Lard it nicely with pieces of 


larding pork (No. 1, Fig. 52); cover the bottom of a baking pan with sliced fat pork, minced 
onions and carrots, and lay the sirloin on top, pouring over some good fat (clarified drippings), and 


add a little broth, set it in a hot oven and baste frequently while cooking; a few minutes before 


dishing up, salt the meat. When done arrange it on a dish, pour over some thick gravy (No. 405) 
and garnish it around with souffléd sweet potatos (No. 2831), serve separately a dishful of chiccory- 
with cream (No. 2729), also some thick gravy (No. 405) in a sauce-boat. 


(1357), SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Oontrefilet de Bouf aux 
Topinambours), 

Lift the tenderloin from the short loin, saw the ribs from the beginning of the spine from the: 
sirloin and rémove the flat bone. Trim the sirloin into a long square shape and cook it either on 
an English spit, a cradle spit or else in the oven. For the latter, set the sirloin on a baking pan 

‘having a grater (Fig. 306), pour over some fat and for a sirloin weighing ten pounds allow sixty 
minutes for its cooking, when nearly done, salt, dress it on a dish, garnishing all around with. 


some stewed Jerusalem artichokes (No. 2749); serve a separate sauce-boat of good thickened gravy- 


(No, 405). 


(1358), SMOKED ROUND TOP OF BEEF WITH CREAM (Noix de Bouf Fumé 4 la Créme), 


Cut up as finely as possible one-half pound of smoked beef taken from a piece of the: 


round top; set it in a saucepan on the fire with cold water, at the first boil, drain off all the 


water, but should the meat still be too salty, then set it in boiling water, and drain it well a few 


moments after. Put the well drained meat into another saucepan, with the addition of some. 
cream, let simmer for a few minutes, then thicken it with a little fecula or corn starch diluted in 


cold water or milk. Cook again for a few minutes, season with salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, and _. 


finish with a little fresh butter. To thicken smoked beef with cream a little béchamel sauce (No.. 
409) may be used instead of fecula. 


(1359), SALISBURY STEAK (Bifteck & la Salisbury). 


Put two pounds of tenderloin of beef in the chopping machine (Fig. 173); this machine is far- 
superior to any other, for in chopping the meats the sinews and other hard parts collect at the- 
bottom of the machine, on the shelf; the meat arising to the surface is the best part; take this. 
out, leaving the hard, fibrous pieces at the bottom. Mold the Salisbury steak in a ring three- 
quarters of an inch high: by three inches in diameter or else in a small empty goose-liver- 
terrine (No. 10). These raw steaks are frequently served without any seasoning or else seasoned. 
and broiled very rare. pee | ce ae Ms 


pe: 
(1360) BEEF STEAK, HAMBURG STYLE (Bifteck a la Hambourgeoise), 

One pound of tenderloin of beef free of sinews and, fat; chop it up on a chopping block with, 
four ounces of beef kidney suet, free of nerves and skin or else the same quantity of marrow; 
add one ounce of chopped onions fried in butter without attaining color; season all with salt, pep- 
per and nutmeg, and divide the preparation into balls, each one weighing four ounces; flatten them 
down, roll them in bread-crumbs and fry them in a sauté pan in butter. When of a fine color on. 
both sides, dish them up pouring a good thickened gravy (No. 405) over. 


(1361), HAMBURG STEAK A LA TARTARE (Bifteck de Hambourg & la Tartare). 


Hamburg steaks are made with lean and tender beef, either the tenderloin or sirloin. Chop. 
up with a knife on a chopping block twelve ounces of raw beef free of allfat and nerves; season 
with salt and pepper, add half a medium onion cut in small one-eighth of an inch squares or else 
Have th finely chopped; form it into a ball and flatten. These steaks are generally eaten raw. For 
cooked see the Hamburg steak No. 1360. - For steaks ala Tartare, add half a finely cut up green 
vepper or else it can be cut in small squares. After the steak is formed into a flattened ball make: 
& hole in the center and break into it one very fresh egg, or else the yolk only. 


Be: 


- 
“ \ 





a 
a 


“. 


| So Sie ce sherman ASK 


| (1362), PORTERHOUSE STEAK (Bifteck d’Aloyau). 

a Select a good, fleshy middle short loin, the meat being pink and very tender Cut 
slices an inch and three-quarters thick, in the tenderloin and sirloin, sawing awa fhe spi 
bone from the rib. Cut off the fat and sinews, and ; ene 
trim it nicely to the shape of the accompanying 
plate; after trimming it should weigh two pounds and 
a quarter. Season with salt and pepper, and_ baste 
over with oil or clarified butter, then broil on a slow 
well sustained fire for fifteen minutes if desired ae 
eighteen minutes if properly done, and well cooked, 
twenty. minutes, only turning it over once in the middle of 
cooking. When finished, lay the steak on a very hot dish, 
covering it with maitre d’hdtel butter (No. 581). 

It is easy to find out when the meat is done. Press 
lightly in the center with the first finger, and if the meat 
be soft, and offering a slight resistance, then it is cooked 
rare; to have it. done properly it must be firm, without ee re 
resisting as much to the touch; and to be well done, it must siti 
be firm, and offer resistance. Practice alo e ; i 
es cuslity of the mont ne can teach how to cook by the touch, which differs 





(1363), DOUBLE PORTERHOUSE STEAK A LA SANFORD (Bifteck d’Aloyau Double & la Sanford) 
Mr. Wright Sanford, one of the most fervent disciples of the house of Delmonico, and an 
Sree was specially fond of ordering this dish. Much care should be Pitre: to 
its cooking which must operate slowly, while maintaining ; 
a cerchty rons gis ae ee e maintaining the same degree of heat throughout, 
_ Cut through all the thickness of the short loin a slice two and a quarter inches thick; 
it should weigh after being trimmed, four pounds and a half. Season with salt, cover sah 
oil, and broil the steak on a slow, but well sustained fire for twenty-four minutes if needed 
rare, twenty-eight minutes to be properly done, and thirty-two minutes if desired well done. 
Turn the meat over when half cooked, dress the steak on a very hot dish, garnish the top 
with ribbons of horseradish (No. 98), and pour around a Madeira sauce (No. 492), well buttered 
with some maitre d’hdtel butter (No. 581). ) 


(1364), RIB STEAK A LA BEROY (Entrecéte & la Bercy), 

Take the chuck-ribs of prime beef, these lying under the shoulder. Bone and cut in 
slices an inch and a half in thickness. This meat requires to be beaten in order to be 
made tender, then lay it either in oil or melted butter; season with salt and mignonette pepper 
and broil on a very slow fire for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When the meat is done, set it an 
a very hot dish, and pour over the following sauce: Put into a saucepan two medium sized finely 
chopped shallots, some finely chopped marrow, the same quantity of butter and as much meat 
glaze (No. 402), salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley. Let eook rapidly on a 
very hot fire for one minute, place the steak on a very warm dish, 
and pour the Bercy sauce over. 


(1365), RIB STEAK A LA ROYER (Entrecéte & la Royer). 

Cut from the thin covered part of a rib piece slices which when 
pared will weigh one pound and a quarter; season them with salt, 
rub them over with oil, and broil them over a rather quick fire from 
eighteen to twenty-two minutes. Dress them on a dish, and 
cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), into which incorporate a 
piece of good butter and some chopped up truffles. Garnish arou nd 
the steak with stuffed mushroom heads (No. 650). 


(1366). ROUND STEAK WITH WATER-GRESS (Bifteck de Noix de 
Beuf au Cresson), 
Cut from the round top of a young beef, the meat being pink 


and tender slices of three-quarters of an inch thick. Season them with salt and peppers, coat 
them over with sweet oil, and broil on a moderate, well sustained fire for eight or ten minutes; as 








Fia. 


486 THE EPICUREAN. 


soon as they are done set them on a very hot dish, and pour over a layer of maitre-d’hotel butter 
(No. 581). Wash wellsome fresh water-cress, drain, and season it with salt and vinegar, garnish 


round the dish with it. 


(1367), RUMP STEAK A LA VILLAGEOISE (Bifteck de Pointe Culotte a la Villageoise), 


Only young beef that have never performed any labor can supply tender rump steaks. : 


Cut transverse slices of three-quarters of an inch thickness from a rump of beef; season 
them with salt and pepper, and baste over with oil or melted butter; lay them on the grid- 
iron and broil over a brisk fire from twelve to fourteen minutes. Chop up some boiled, peeled, and 
cold potatoes, put them in a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and sweet cream; boil 
them once, then let simmer until the ingredients have sufficient consistency. Butter the inside of 
a baking dish, line it with a layer of these potatoes, besprinkle over with bread crumbs and: 
grated parmesan cheese, and put to bake in a very hot oven. Glaze the rump steak with meat. 
glaze (No. 402), and serve it on top of the potatoes. 


(1368). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK OF TWELVE OUNCES, PLAIN (Bifteck de Contrefilet de douze 
Onces, Nature), 


Cut slices an inch and a quarter thick from a 
sirloin; beat them to flatten them down to one inch, 
trim nicely, after which they should weigh twelve 
ounces; salt on both sides, spread them over with oil 
or melted butter, and broil them on a steady fire; it 
will take about eight minutes to have them very rare, 
ten to have them properly done, and twelve if desired. 
well done; set them on a hot dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre-d’hotel butter 
(No. 581), : 





Fia. 310. 


(1369), SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BEARNAISE (Bifteck de Contrefilet & la Béarnaise), 


Prepare and cook the beefsteak as for the plain (No. 1368); apart from the cooking described. 
by minutes in that number, the time for broiling depends entirely upon the thickness of the 
meat, and the intensity of the fire. In order to judge whether the meat be done to the touch 
when it offers a certain resistance; this can easily be learned after once being accustomed to 
broiling. Dress the beefsteak over a Béarnaise sauce (No. 483); glaze the top with meat glaze 
(No. 402) using a brush for the purpose. 


(1370), SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE (Bifteck de Contrefilet & la Bordelaise). 


When the beefsteak has been cooked as described in the plain (No. 1868) lay it on a dish and. 
cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 486). 


(1371), SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW (Bifteck de Contrefilet &. 
la Bordelaise et & la Moelle), 

Cook a small sirloin steak as for No. 1868, then arrange it on a very hot dish and cover with 

a sauce prepared as follows: Cut four ounces of beef marrow into quarter-inch thick slices, plunge 


ee into boiling water, then drain. Dress them on the steak and cover with a Bordelaise sauce 
(No. 436). 


(1372) SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW AND TRUFFLES 


(Bifteck de Contrefilet & la Bordelaise & la Moelle et aux Truffes), 


After cooking the steak the same as a plain one (No. 1868) lay it on a very hot dish and cover 
with the following sauce: Cut three ounces of marrow into quarter inch thick slices, and one 
ce of truffles in thin slices. Parboil the marrow and drain it off; heat the truffles in a little 
leira and half-glaze (No. 400). Over the steak arrange the marrow and truffles one inter- 


cd with the other; cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 436) and serve. 


a RP See a ae ee Peer a FO ee eee 






‘ 
‘ 
A 





BEEF. "48? 


(1373). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, ANCIENT STYLE (Bifteck de Contrefilet & !Ancienne), 


After the sirloin is cooked as in the plain (No. 1368) lay it on a dish, besprinkling it over with 
some anchovy butter (No. 569). Form on top a crown of anchovy fillets garnishing the interior 
with capers, and set round the steak a garnishing of potato balls, each an inch in diameter, fried 
tiree quarters in hot fat, and finishing cooking in the oven with some butter; when done drain off 
the butter, and season with salt, chopped parsley and lemon juice. 


(1874), SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, WITH BUTTER AND COOKED FINE HERBS (Bifteck de 
Contrefilet au Beurre aux et Fine Herbes Ouites), 
After the beefsteak is cooked as explained in plain (No. 1868) dish it up and cover the top with 


a layer of butter and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Garnish around with fresh green water- 
cresses, seasoning it with salt and vinegar. ; 


(1375). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK OF TWENTY OUNCES, PLAIN (Bifteck de Contrefilet Del- 
monico de Vingt Onces, Nature). 


Cut from a sirloin slices two inches in thickness; beat them to flatten them to an inch and a 
half thick, trim nicely; they should now weigh twenty ounces each; salt them on both sides, baste 
them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a moderate fire for fourteen minutes if 
desired very rare; eighteen to be done properly, and twenty-two to be well done. Set them ona 
hot dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre d’h6tel butter (No. 581). 


(1376). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK A LA PERIGUEUX (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmonico 
& la Périgueux), 
After cooking the steak the same as for plain (No. 1375), lay it over a Périgueux sauce 
(No. 517), into which mix the third of its quantity of small chicken quenelles, forced through a 
cornet to three-eighths of an inch in diameter, glazing it with meat glaze. 


(1877), DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK, SPANISH STYLE (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmonico & 
sey Aaa l'Espagnole), 

Prepare and cook the sirloin steak as described for plain (No. 1375). Chop up separately a 
quarter of a pound of lean beef free of sinews, and the same quantity of fresh pork. Mix these 
together with a tablespoonful of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and one egg-yolk; season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, then divide the preparation into four parts; roll it on a floured table into 
balls, flatten them to half an inch thick, then dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them 





Fig. 311. 


in bread-crumbs; smooth this with the blade of a knife; plunge them into very hot 
fat for two minutes to brown the outsides. Drain and lay them one _ beside the other 
in a sautoir moistening them to their height with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and let simmer for 
three-quarters of an hour, basting them frequently. Brown in oil four ounces of minced onions, 
add to it four ounces of finely minced green peppers, one clove of garlic, half a pound of peeled 
tomatoes cut in four and pressed; let cook together and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) 
and gravy (No. 404). Lay the garnishing on the bottom of a dish, the glazed steak on top, and 
the hash balls over, one overlapping the other. 


(1378), SIRLOIN STEAK FOR GOURMETS; EXTRA FORTY OUNCES (Bifteck de Contrefilet des 
Gourmets; Extra Quarante Onces). 


Cut from a good thick sirloin of beef, slices, each one being four to five inches thick; beat 
to flatten them down to three inches, then trim them carefully, salt them on both sides, cover with 


488 THE EPICUREAN * Reet: a 


either clarified butter or melted marrow, and place in a double gridiron and broil them over a moderate a : 


” 


fire for twenty minutes if desired rare, twenty-six minutes to have them properly done, and thirty -— 


minutes when needed to be well done. Lay them on top of a gravy prepared as follows: Have 


two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped shallot, fry it colorless in three ounces of butter, add some 





melted glaze (No. 402), stir in four ounces of fine butter, a teaspoonful of the best tarragon vinegar, 


chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne pepper, and two ounces of beef marrow cut into half inch — 
squares. When the marrow is warm, pour it on the dish, lay the extra size steak on top, glaze 


it with meat glaze (No. 402), and garnish around with gastronome potatoes (No. 2789). 


(1379), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. HOW TO PREPARE (Pour Préparer le Filet de Boeuf), 


The tenderloin is found in the inside of the short loin in the hollow formed under the spinal 


bone. Detach the tenderloin from the spinal bone of a middle short loin by following the bone 
with the knife; then displace it from the flat bone and from the spinal bone, scraping it off so that 


no meat remains on the bones. Remove the fat and large nerves and with a thin knife remove the ~ 


hard skin covering the tenderloin. It is to be served whole or else cut up. Use the middle slices 
for Chateaubriands; for ten ounce tenderloin steaks use on each side of the Chateaubriand, for 


mignons, noisettes and tournedos the thin end and the other end for grenadins; the head part is 


also used for mincing, for Salisbury steaks, Hamburg steaks, etc. 


(1380), CHATEAUBRIAND, PLAIN TWENTY OUNCES (Chateaubriand Nature Vingt Onces), 
The name of Chateaubriand is given to the piece of meat taken from the middle of a large 
tenderloin. After it has been nicely trimmed, the Chateaubriand should weigh twenty ounces, or 
a pound and a quarter. Flatten it down to the thickness of an inch and a quarters, put it to cook 


on a broiler over a slow but regular fire for sixteen minutes if needed exceptionally rare, eigthteen — 


minutes when properly done, and twenty for well done. Serve on a hot 
dish with maitre d’hétel butter or gravy. 


(1381), CHATEAUBRIAND, COLBERT SAUCE (Chateaubriand Sauce 

Colbert), : 
broil on-@ slow, regular fire. Lay it on a dish, and garnish the two 
ends with potatoes cut olive-shaped and fried in butter, and cover with 
the following sauce: Reduce half a pint of white wine with a tea- 





Fi. 313. When well reduced, strain it through a sieve, boil again, and when 
ready to serve, incorporate therein a quarter of a pound of butter, 
some chopped parsley, and the strained juice of a lemon. 


(1382). CHATEAUBRIAND MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE, THICKENED (Chateaubriand Sauce Maitre 
d’'Hotel Liée), 


Prepare and cook a Chateaubriand as for No. 1380, lay it ona dish; reduce some velouté 


(No. 415) with white wine; add a little meat glaze (No. 402), and incorporate into it when ready 


fo serve some maitre d’hOtel butter (No. 581). Cover the whole Chateaubriand with this, and gar- 
nish the dish with potatoes prepared as follows: Cut up some potatoes into large six-sided olive 
Shapes; first blanch, then finish to cook in clarified butter or else in lard over a good fire, keeping 
cu covered until they become soft and browned; drain off the fat and put in some small pieces 
or 'resh butter, salt and chopped parsley, serve as a garnishing. : KOWEe idee. 


Season & Chateaubriand with someé Salt, brush it over with oil, and 


spoonful of meat glaze (No. 402), and half a pint of espagnole (No. 414). 


ie 
ca * 





5 53 a ind Cis a 489 


1383). DOUBLE CHATEAUBRIAND, TWO AND A HALF POUNDS WITH SOUFFLED POTATOES 
(Chateaubriand Double de Deux Livres et Demie aux Pommes Soufflées). | 


Season well the meat with salt, rub sweet oil over both sides, and broil on a slow, regular fire; 
for rare, twenty minutes; properly done, twenty-six minutes, and well done, thirty minutes. It 
is preferable to broil it on a double-hinged broiler without pressing it down, and turning over when 
half cooked. When done, set it on a large hot dish, spread over some majtre d’hdtel butter (No. 
981), letting the dish be sufficiently large to contain a quantity of souffléd potatoes (No. 2808). 
It is better to serve a single Chateaubriand, for the excessive thickness of a double one renders 
the cooking of it doubtful, yet it is a dish epicureans frequently call for. 


(1384), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN PLAIN FIVE OUNCES (Grenadins de Filet de Bouf Nature 
de cing onces Chaque), 


From a raw and well trimmed tenderloin of beef cut lengthwise of the meat, 
half heart-shaped slices, five inches long by two and a half inches wide, and half an 
inch thick. Beat them lightly, trim evenly, and lard them on one side with rows of 
fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Season with salt and pepper. Put some fat or 
clarified butter in a sauté-pan, and when very hot, lay in the grenadins on their larded 
side; four minutes later when a fine color, turn them over; it will take about eight 
or ten minutes to cook them rare. Serve on a hot dish, and pour some clear gravy 
over (No. 404). 





Fig. 314. 


(1885). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA BEAUMARCHAIS (Grenadins de Filet de Buf dla 


Beaumarchais), 


Cook the prepared grenadins the same as for plain (No. 1384); drain off half the butter, and to 
the remainder add a coffeespoonful of finely chopped, blanched, and drained shallot, fry this color- 
less, then put in a little velouté (No. 415), and thicken with egg-yolks; butter well with good, 
fresh butter, and add some meat glaze (No. 402), and lemon juice; strain through a tammy; now 
mix into the sauce a little chopped parsley. Pour the sauce on the dish intended for serving 
the grenadins, and arrange them either in a straight row or in a circle; surround with as many 
croustades as there are grenadins, these crotistades to be filled with mushrooms stewed in 
cream. Serve a slightly thickened half-glaze sauce (No. 413) separately. 


(1386), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA BONIFACE (Grenadins de Filet de Beuf & la Boniface), 
| Prepare and cook the grenadins as explained in plain grenadins (No. 1384), drain them on a 
cloth, lay them on a dish, and cover them with a bordelaise sauce with mushrooms (No. 436), 
garnishiug the dish with marrow fritters (No. 682). 


(1387). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA HALEVY Grenadins de Filet de Bouf & la Halévy). 


Prepare and cook the grenadins,as for No. 1884. Plunge some good, sound tomatoes in 
boiling water, peel them, cut them crosswise in two, squeeze them without injuring their shape, 
and season them with pepper and salt. Heat some oil in an omelet pan, and when very hot, 
put in the halved tomatoes; cook them, then arrange them crown-shaped on a dish, lay a grenadin 
on each tomato and garnish around with stuffed mushrooms (No. 650). Serve a well reduced and 
well buttered half-glaze sauce separately (No. 413). 


(1388), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN AS VENISON, POIVRADE SAUCE (Grenadins de Filet de 
Beeuf en Chevreuil, Sauce Poivrade). 


Trim some slices of tenderloin, cut lengthwise, and shape them in half-heart forms. Marinate 
them for three days in a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114). Drain and dry them, then fry in 
an omelet pan in hot clarified fat on a very quick fire. When done rare, drain and lay them on 
slices of bread fried in butter, cut the same size and shape. Pour over a poivrade sauce (No. 522.) 


490 THE EPICURBKAN. 


(1389), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN MAROC AURELE (Grenadins de Filet de Beuf 4 la Mare 3 


Auréle), 


Prepare a pate-a-chou (No. 182); spread from a pocket on a baking sheet pieces an 


inch and a quarter in diameter; when they are cooked they should be about two inches — h 


in diameter. Egg them twice with a soft brush and dredge over the half of them some grated 
parmesan cheese, and the other half finely chopped truffles. Bake them in aslow oven until dry. 


. 


- 


re 


8 

mg 
+ 
% 


Remove them from the baking sheet, and cut off all the bottoms. Fill those covered with cheese, “a 


with small macaroni cut in quarter inch lengths mixed with tongue cut in quarter inch squares, 
season and add a litttle velouté (No. 415), some butter, mignonette pepper and nutmeg, then toss 
in a saucepan without using a spoon. Fill those covered with truffles with a little macédoine of 
vegetables cut ball-shaped, each a quarter of an inch in diameter. Push through a cornet at the 


edge of the opening of the choux a row of chicken forcemeat (No. 89). Restore the bottoms and _ 


fasten them on with chicken forcemeat, lay them on a plate in the oven for one minute to poach 
the forcemeat. Cook the grenadins the same as for plain (No. 1884); when done, drain and arrange 


them in a row, garnishing one side of the dish with maccaroni and parmesan choux, and the other 


with the macédoine and truffles. Serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) at the same time. 


(1390), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN, PALADIO (Grenadins de Filet de Boouf la Paladio), 


Cut lengthwise from a tenderloin some slices half an inch in thickness, and shape them like 
half hearts, then lard them with small pieces of larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Garnish the 
bottom of a sautoir with slices of bacon, place on top finely cut onions and carrots, and set the 
grenadins above. Moisten with Beef stock (No. 194a), cover the saucepan, and reduce until dry, 
Moisten again, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, then set it in the oven to cook, basting it 


frequently during the time. Glaze them a fine color, then have pieces of cooked ham the same 


shape, fry them in butter with sliced apples. Arrange the cooked ham on a dish, put grenadins on 
top, reduce the gravy, strain, and remove the fat, mixing in some espagnole (No. 414) reduced 
with Madeira wine, and pour it over the grenadins. Garnish the dish with the slices of fried apples. 


(1391), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN, PREVILLOT (Grenadins de Filet de Bouf & la Prévillot), 


Prepare and cook the grenadins as for plain grenadins (No. 1384); arrange them on top of 
some half heart-shaped crofitons of bread fried in butter, the same shape and size as the grenadins, 
and cover them with a Prévillot salpicon (No. 749). 


(1392), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH CELERY, BECHAMEL (Grenadins de Filet de Bouf 
au Oéleri, Béchamel). 


Prepare and cook the grenadins, as for plain(No. 1384). Cut in quarter of an inch squares 
some tender and white celery; blanch it in plenty of salted water, drain and dry well; then fry 
them in butter without browning. Moisten with broth (No. 194a), and when cooked, mix in 


a little béchamel (No. 409), and freshcream. Reduce, pour it on a dish, and arrange the glazed 
grenadins on top. 


(1393), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH ROUND POTATOES, VALOIS SAUCE (Grenadins 
de Filet de Beuf aux Pommes de Terre en Boules & la Sauce Valois), 

Arrange and cook the grenadins as for plain (No. 1384), glaze and lay them on a piece of 
poached quenelle forcemeat shaped like a half heart. Cover with a Valois sauce (No. 554), 
surround the grenadins with round potatoes seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, previously fried 
in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. 


(1394), GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET PEPPERS (Grenadins de Filet de Bout 
| aux Piments Doux), 

3 Proceed and cook the grenadins as for plain (No. 1384), glaze and lay them on a dish, garnish- 
ng i with sautéed Sweet peppers prepared as follows: Plunge the peppers in hot frying fat, remove 
© peel covering the outside by rubbing with a dry cloth: cut them in two lengthwise, and fry 
1 In oul, turning them over carefully while cooking. When done season with salt, pepper and 
f varlie crushed, drain them from the oil, and finish with a little meat glaze (No. 402), 
ohh Juice and fine herbs. Preserved sweet peppers can always be obtained; it is only 


I 


PY iO 


‘rain them, fry them in butter or oil, addinga little garlic, lemon juice and fine herbs. 





BEEF, | 491 


(1395), MINCED TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA ANDREWS (Emincé de Filet de Bouf & la 
Andrews), 

Pare and trim well all the fat from off a tenderloin, cut it lengthwise to obtain escalops or small 
slices an inch and a half in diameter by aneighth of an inch in thickness, the weight to be one ounce. 
Prepare the same quantity of veal kidney; cut it in pieces of the same thickness and one inch in 
diameter. Put an ounce of butter in a sautoir and when very hot and slightly browned, add 

the tenderloin and afterward the veal kidney. Cook them on a quick fire, seasoning with salt 
pepper and lemon juice; serve on a very hot dish. 


(1396), MINCED TENDERLOIN A LA BEEKMAN (Emincé de Filet de Beuf 4 la Beekman), 
Cut into thin slices six ounces of cold tenderloin of beef, either roasted or braised. Place in a 
saucepan a few spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414), boil and skim; add a pinch of cayenne pepper, a 
little Worcestershire sauce, half as much mushroom catsup, then the slices of beef. Cover fie 
saucepan, set it in the oven, but do not allow the liquid to boil, as it hardens the meat, then when 
the tenderloin is quite warm, serve it lengthwise ona dish. Strain the sauce through a fine strainer 
covering the meat with it. ‘ 


(1397), MINCED TENDERLOIN, CREOLE STYLE, (Emincé de Filet de Beuf a la Oréole), 


Cut six ounces of tenderloin of beef lengthwise, shape the slices into escalops an inch and 
a half in diameter, by an eighth of an inch in thickness. Sauté them in butter, when ready 
take the meat out and keep it warm between two dishes, adding beef stock (No. 194a) with 
part of its fat, some halved tomatoes peeled, pressed and fried in butter, also some green 
peppers sliced fine and fried in butter. Season highly, arrange the minced meat in a border 
_ of rice boiled in salted water to which half an ounce of butter has been added, and serve. 


(13898), MINCED TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH POTATO CROQUETTES (Emincé de Filet de 
Bouf aux Croquettes de Pommes), 

__ Cut into thin slices the best part of a cold roast tenderloin, to weigh about four ounces, then 
pare them to make them of an even size. Heat some butter in a small saucepan, add to it two. 
teaspoonfuls of finely chopped onions, also four spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. When the mois- 
ture from the mushrooms has evaporated wet them with four spoonfuls of Marsala wine, reduce: 
again to half, then thicken with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Heat the slices of beef between 
two dishes with the addition of a little clear gravy (No. 404), not allowirg it to boil. If the 
tenderloin was previously braised instead of roasted, then the meat should be cut thicker, and 
heated in the sauce for twenty-five minutes without boiling; arrange it on a dish either in one 
or two rows, and cover with the sauce. Surround the meat with potato croquettes (No. 2782), 
formed into balls of an inch in diameter and flattened. 


(13899), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF—PLAIN (Mignons de Filet de Bouf Nature), 


Trim carefully a tenderloin of beef, remove all the fat and nerves, then cut it 
into slices each one weighing five ounces; beat them lightly to have them all of 
the same thickness, then pare and cut them into round shapes. Salt on both 
sides, dip them in melted butter or sweet oil, and broil on a moderate, well-sus- 
tained fire; they should take six minutes if desired rare, eight minutes to have 
them properly done, and ten minutes if required well done. When half cooked 
turn them over and finish on the other side. Dress on a hot dish and pour some Fig. 315. 
clear gravy (No. 404) over. 


(1400). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BAILLARD (Mignons de Filet de Bouf & 
la Baillard), 

First cook the minions the same as for the plain (No. 1399); dress them flat on a very hot dish;. 
on each minion lay a piece of foies-gras removing it from the terrine with aspoon. Cover the: 
whole with good Madeira sauce (No. 492) to which has been added truffles cut in fine Julienne and 
fresh mushrooms. 


(1401), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA CHERON (Mignons de Filet de Bouf & la 
Chéron), 

Prepare and cook the minions as explained in the plain (No. 1399). Cover the bottom of a dish 
with a béarnaise sauce (No. 433), sprinkle over with some chopped parsley, and lay the minions on 
top, and on each one set an artichoke bottom slightly smaller than the minion, and previously 
cooked and sautéd in butter. Garnish with a little macédoine thickened with velouté (No. 415), 


and fine butter, and season well. 





492 THE EPICURE AN. 


(1402), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA ‘DUMAS atiguons ee le 
Dumas), te 

When the minions are prepared and cooked as for plain (No. 1399), an each. one or 2 
slice of unsmoked but cooked beef tongue; let these be the same diameter as the minion and 
sixteenths of an inch in thickness. Reduce a velouté (No. 415) and soubise sauce (No. 543) 
and when ready to serve thicken it with egg-yolks, raw cream, and a piece of fresh butter. ; 
the minions with this sauce, strew over grated fresh bread-crumbs and grated parmesan 
and sprinkle with clarified butter; brown in a very hot oven or under a gas salamander Cig. 
and garnish the dish with ham croquettes shaped like small crescents, then serve. eo 


































salt). Put on the fire, and when cooked lay hen on a dish to get cold, thes alvin ee p 
tion into balls each an inch in diameter; roll them longways and shape them into crescents, 
them in beaten eggs, roll them in grated bread-crumbs and fry them in Sah fat a fine Co <eg 


(1403), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA FEARING (Mignons de Filet de Bout 1 
Fearing), 


After the minions are prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1890), ae ete ¢ 
round flat poached quenelles of chicken foreemeat mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), the se 
size as the minions, and a quarter of an inch thick. Glaze the minions with meat 
(No. 402), and garnish around with a garnishing prepared as follows: Put some fina: 
sauce (No. 464) into a saucepan, add balls of game forcemeat half an inch in diameter, som 
mushrooms, artichoke bottoms divided into six pieces, a few cocks’-combs, or beef pela 
same shape as the cocks’-combs, cock’s-kidneys, and whole truffles. 


(1404), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF ALA MEYERBEER Mie de Filet ae 
a la Meyerbeer), ee 


The tenderloin is to be prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1399), “ati when é 
properly prepare a Piedmontese risot (No. 2981). Garnish the center of a dish wi 
piling it high and dome-shaped; then glaze the minions, and arrange them aroun 
rice. Divide some lamb or mutton kidneys in two, having half a kidney for each minion; : 
these with salt. and pepper, then sauté them in some butter on a hot fire. When done, dr. 
the butter, add a little fresh butter and some meat glaze (No. 402), and toss the kidneys 
Lay half a kidney on top of each minion, serving at the same time, but separately, a sauce-b 
of sauce Périgueux (No. 517). | es. 


(1405), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA SALVINI AMignona de Filet de 
os ind Salvini), es 
Upietare and cook the minions as for plain (No. 1899), lay. Thee on. a ain fie the 
pile on top of each minion a slice of plainly cooked duck’s liver the same shape, but s 
than the minion, and on top of each piece of liver, a. slice of black. truffle. Cover t 
with an allemande sauce (No. 407), with parmesan cheese, adding to it some minced a 
and chopped parsley. Brown in a very hot oven or under a Bees salamander (Fig. Vee 


(1406). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA STANLEY Otignon de Filet de Bax 
Stanley). 


After preparing and cooking the minions as described in plain minions (No. 1399) 
them with a brush, and lay them on a dish. Remove the peel from several bana 
them lengthwise in two, and cut each half across; roll the pieces in flour, and plunge t! 
fry in very hot oil. Fry in butter without browning, one small onion weighing an oun 
chopped up very fine; moisten this with one gill of cream, reduce and strain through a 
then thicken it with egg-yolks stirred up in cream. Add some freshly grated horseradish 
‘he preparation thickens well, then season with salt. Warm this without boiling, earn 


mons with it, having it an inch deep and bomb- -shaped. Sprinkle chopped Pires overs 
ana Set on eac h one, a quarter of a fried banana. 


) Spee OLE i a 


(1407). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA VERNON (Mignons de Filet de Bouf a la 


Vernon), 


To be prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1399). Set them on a dish on 
top of slices of bread cut the same size, and fried in butter. Garnish around with cucumbers cut 
into olive-shaped pieces, blanched, drained, and put in a saucepan with some velouté (No. 415), and 
quarter inch squares of celery, blanched until nearly cooked. Boil slowly till the cucumbers are 
done, and when ready to serve, stir into it a piece of fresh butter, spread this over each minion, 
and on each one lay a slice of crawfish butter (No. 573) or lobster butter (No. 580), seasoned with 
a little cayenne pepper; throw a little chopped parsley over the red butter. 


(1408), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH OEPES A LA BORDELAISE (Mignons de 
Filet de Boouf aux Cépes & la Bordelaise), 

Prepare and cook the minions as indicated in plain minions (No. 1399). Glaze and 
garnish them around with a garnishing of cépes & la bordelaise made as follows: Choose- 
medium s.zed cépes, not too large, remove the stalks, and trim them without altering their shape. 
Pour some oil in a pan, and when hot, throw in the cépes, color, season, and reduce the moisture. 
Finish cooking them with a Madeira sauce (No. 492), some chopped parsley, and a little garlic 
erushed and chopped fine. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of Madeira sauce. 


(1409), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CHESTNUTS, MARSALA SAUCE (Mignons 
de Filet de Boeuf aux Marrons, Sauce Marsala), 

Have the minions prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1399). Split open. 
the sides of some chestnuts, plunge them into very hot fat, or roast them in the oven; remove the- 
outside peel, also the inside skin, blanch them in plenty of water, then cook them in broth (No. 
194a) with a little butter added, and a stalk of celery. When thoroughly done, drain, and use 
only those which have remained whole and intact; return these to the saucepan adding a little 
half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and some Marsala wine. Dress the glazed minions on a bread crotiton 
fried in butter, and garnish them with the chestnuts either around or inside should they be ar- 
ranged crown-shaped. Pour the sauce over and serve. 


(1410), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, PLAIN (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf Nature), 


Trim a tenderloin of beef, cut it in slices and beat lightly to flatten to three-eighths of an inch 
in thickness, then trim them again round-shaped; each one should weigh three 
ounces. Salt them on both sides; put half oil and half butter in a saucepan and set 
it on a hot fire, place therein the meat, and let cook quickly. It will take about five 
minutes to have them rare, seven minutes to cook them properly, and eight minutes 
if desired well done. When finished, remove, lay them on a plate, glaze and = 
serve on a dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured around. Fie. 316. 


(1411), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF ALA BERTHIER (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf 
| ee | a la Berthier), | 

Prepare the noisettes as for No. 1410, set them in an earthen dish, then season them with 
salt and mignonette, oil, vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, sprigs of parsley and sliced onions. Leave: 
them in this pickle for three hours, then drain the pieces, wipe dry, and sauté them with butter ona 
hot fire. When done dress them over atomato sauce (No.549) with horseradish, stirring in a little 
finely chopped blanched and lightly fried shallots. Stuff some Spanish olives with anchovies, put 
them in sheets of buttered paper, warm them in a slow oven, remove the papers, glaze the olives, 
and garnish the noisettes with these. Three olives are sufficient for each noisette. 


(1412), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BONNEFOY (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf 
& la Bonnefoy), 

Arrange, prepare and cook the noisettes as explained for plain (No. 1410). Dish them 
and pour over asatce prepared as follows: Put some half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into a small 
saucepan, stir it well with a whip and mixing in with it the same quantity of butter; season 
with mignonette, lemon juice and chopped parsley. Cut some pieces of beef marrow, a quarter of 
an inch thick, throw them into boiling water, and drain them. Have double the quantity of thin 
slices of mushrooms; lay the mushroons and marrow intercalated in some tartlet molds, dressing. 
them dome-shape fill up with sauce; put them on ice. When cold unmould them by dipping the 
molds in hot water; dip them in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry to a good color. 
Dress them crowned-shaped around the noisettes, allowmg two pieces of fritter for each noisette.. 
























A494 THE EPICUREAN. ] a a i= : " a 
(1413), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF ALA FLEURETTE (Noisettes de re de Bou! fe 
& la Fleurette). a 


Prepare the noisettes as explained in noisettes plain (No. 1410), season ieee and lay 
them on a dish, pour over them a little cold cooked marinade (No. 114), and some. Madeira — a 
wine. Let macerate for three hours, then drain and dry them on a cloth. Sauté them in butter, — 
and when properly done, after seven minutes, remove and glaze them. Drain the butter 
from the stewpan, put in a little half-glaze (No. 413), reduce, while adding the marinade,a _ 
yery little at the time, and when nicely reduced, finish with a little good cream. Strain the whole | : 
through a tammy (No. 159) and mix in some finely minced chives. Place each noisette ona chin i 
slice of bread, browned in butter, lay them on a dish and cover each with the gravy. ia 


(1414), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MAGNY (Noisettes de Filet de Bout a la a 
Magny). , 3 
Prepare and cook the noisettes of tenderloins the same way as explained in No. 1410; when os 
done lay them on a dish, and place on top of each noisette a thin slice of fattened goose liver (foies- 
gras (oie). Pour over a sauce allemande (No. 407), mixing in with it a quarter of its quantity of 
grated parmesan cheese. Besprinkle with more grated cheese, baste over with a little melted — 
butter and brown in a quick oven or under a gas salamander (Fig. 123). 


(1415), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MAIRE (Noisettes de Filet de Boouf a ia 
Maire), 2 
“The noisettes of tenderloin of beef are to be prepared and cooked as for plain noiseeey e: a 
(No. 1410); glaze them, and lay them over a garnishing of potatoes maitre d’hotel (No. 2795). — 
Serve separately a half-glaze (No. 400) with tomato sauce (No. 549) with chopped fine herisil 
added, and stir in a piece of fresh butter just when ready to serve. Z. 


(1416), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA NIGOISE (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf & la 
Nicoise). ‘ 


i 
a 
— 
a 


i 
y cy 
a 
a+ 


When the noisettes are prepared and cooked the same as for plain noisettes (No. 1410), — 
dress them on a layer of ‘tomatoes previously skinned, halved, squeezed and fried in hot 
oil mixed with eighth of an inch squares of cut ham; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a iS a 
taste of garlic. Lay these tomatoes inside a border made of risot Piemontaise (No. 2981). Glaze 
the noisettes, set them inside the border and garnish around the outside with small potato balls 
half an inch in size, and cooked in butter with chopped parsley strewed over. 


(1417), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA ROSSINI (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf & la 
Rossini), . | 

These noisettes are prepared and cooked the same as for plain noisettes (No. 1410). Glaze and 

lay them on small slices of bread, a quarter of an inch thick, and the same diameter as the 
noisettes fried in butter. Choose some very large white, chicken livers, cut them intc thick 
slices, sauté them in some butter, and set a slice on each noisette, and on top of this a fine 


round slice of truffle. Mask the whole with a Madeira sauce (No. 492), with essence of truffle 
(No. 395) added to it. wre 


(1418), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF IN SURPRISE (Noisettes de Filet de Beuf en 
Surprise), 


Fry in butter without browning, a finely chopped, blanched shallot; add to it half a 
pint of tomato sauce (No. 549), and a pint and a half of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Boil 
and skim well, then add half a pound of chopped mushrooms, a quarter of a pound of chopped 
truffles, two ounces of chopped ham and some raw chopped fine herbs. Season properly, let get — 
cold, and then prepare eighteen noisettes plain as for No. 1410. Make an incision on the 
side of each, fill these with the cold preparation, season, and dip the pieces in beaten eggs, then 
roll in bread-crumbs, and fry them in clarified butter. Remove from the fire, set them on @ 
plate, glaze, and dish them over a tomato sauce (No. 549), having some meat glaze (No. 402) added. 


i 


(1419), NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, TRIUMVIR (Noisettes de Filet de Bouf 


Triumvir), 
From the heart of a small tenderloin of beef beaten until excessively tender, cut some 


en 


h after * bei ing flattened and pared should weigh three ounces each, and be three- 
-#n ich thick, and all trimmed to equal size; season with salt and pepper, then 


BEEF. 495 


cook them on a quick fire for three minutes; turn over, and cook them for three minutes more. 
Glaze and cover with a white béarnaise sauce (No. 433); place in the center of each noisette 
a triangle of very black truffle warmed in some good gravy with a few tarragon leaves, and some 
meat glaze (No. 402). Pour this gravy round the béarnaise. 


(1420). NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH PUREE OF MUSHROOMS (Noisettes de 
Filet de Bouf & la Purée de Champignons), 
These are prepared and cooked the same as for plain noisettes (No. 1410). Glaze and lay 
them in round, flat croustades made with either foundation paste (No. 135) or very fine parings of 
puff paste, and garnished with a mushroom purée (No. 722). 


(1421), PAUPIETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Paupiettes de 
Filet de Boeuf aux Fines Herbes Cuites), 


Cut lengthwise from a pared tenderloin ten slices five inches long by two and a quarter wide and 
three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; beat them lightly, season with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; cover one side with a layer of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), 
thickened with a little well reduced half-glaze (No. 400). Roll the paupiettes A) 
into cylindrical forms one and three-quarters in diameter; roll them inside a ff la -— 
barde of fat pork, maintain them in shape with two turns of string; range the @@YJ ig 
paupiettes in a sautoir lined with bardes of fat pork, wet with mirepoix stock Fic, 317. 
(No. 419), to half their heighth and then reduce the moistening entirely. Remoisten 
and finish to cook slowly in the oven; when done pare and dress them on a dish; strain and skim 
the fat from the stock, reduce it with a little white wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), and 
pour it over the paupiettes. 






(1422), PILAU A LA REGLAIN (Pilau a la Reglain,) 


Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan on the fire; when the butter is melted, add 
a quarter of a pound of blanched salt pork cut into half inch squares, two ounces of chopped medium- 
sized onions, and a pound of tenderloin of beef cut into inch squares, a garnished bouquet of 
thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), reduce the liquid 
entirely, then moisten again with another pint of stock, and let reduce to a glaze. Now add half a 
pound of rice, cover to double its heighth with stock, then season with some saffron, salt and 
cayenne pepper. Simmer until it is all done, and the liquid entirely evaporated; dress it on to 
ihe middle of a dish, and surround the pilaff with peeled tomatoes, split in halves and slightly 
squeezed free from their juice, and cooked in half butter and half oil, seasoned with salt and 
pepper. Sprinkle parsley over all and serve. 


(1423), TENDERLOIN—STEAK OF TEN OUNCES, PLAIN, BROILED OR SAUVED (Filet de Bouf 
de dix Onces Grillé ou Sauté Nature), 


Select the tenderloin of a good red color and nicely streaked with fat. Pare it carefully, 
remove all the fibrous parts, cut it into slices, each weighing eleven ounces, and beat lightly to flat- 
ten them to an inch and a quarter in thickness. Trim well in order to give 
them a round-shaped appearance. Each tenderloin after being trimmed 
should weigh ten ounces; season them with salt, baste over with oil or 
melted butter, lay them on a gridiron, and broil them on a moderate well- 
sustained fire, turning them over only once during the time they take to 
cook, which is ten minutes to have them rare, twelve minutes to have them 
properly done, and fourteen minutes well cooked. Lay them on a hot dish. 

Prepare the tenderloin steaks as for the above, season and sauté in 
clarified butter over a bright fire. Turn them over after they have been on 
the fire for about six minutes and again after another six minutes, making 
twelve in all. When the gravy from the meat can beseen on the surface, then remove the steak 
and lay it on a dish; drain out the fat completely from the pan, detach the glaze with a little clear 
gravy (No. 404), reduce, strain and pour it over the meat; serve. 





Fig. 318. 


\ 


(1424), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH ANGHOVY BUTTER (Filet de Boouf au Beurre d'Anchois), 
Trim and cook the tenderloin as for the plain (No. 1423); lay it on a very hot dish, and cover 
the surface with some anchovy butter (No. 569). 


496 . AE Bee ee : 




































(1425), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH MADEIRA, HALF-GLAZE Cilet de Bouf a an Madére, Demi- 
glace). é - atelle We 

Have the tenderloin prepared exactly as for plain (No. 1423), seasoning it with salt, Put son 
clarified butter ina sauté pan (Fig. 180), when very hot add the tenderloin to cook it slowly, turn 
over six minutes after it has been on the fire, then finish cooking, which will take about twe ve 
minutes in all; drain off the fat and pour into the bottom of the saucepan, half a gill of. half 
sauce (No. 413), and a quarter of a gill of good Madeira wine. Reduce quickly, turning the meat ove 
then dress the tenderloin. Pour into the stewpan a quarter of a gill more Madeira wine, 
the whole to half, strain the gravy, put it back into a saucepan, stir in some very oes b 
then pour the whole over the steak. 


(1426), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH MARROW (Filet de Bouf a la Moelle ae 


Cook the steak, after preparing it the same as for plain (No. 1423). Have four ounces — 
marrow for each steak, cut in quarter of an inch thick slices, plunge them into boiling water f 
one minute, drain, and then arrange them symmetrically over the tenderloin, covering ae 
with a Madeira sauce (No. 492), sprinkle some chopped parsley on top. bil 


(1427), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS (Filet de Bouf aux ‘Cbeiiaenaeal 


Prepare and cook as explained in tenderloin with olives (No. 1428), dress it on a dish 
garnish the top with cooked, channeled mushrooms (No. 418), heated in a reduced half-glaze sat 
(No. 413), with some mushroom essence (No. 392); pour this over the meat and serve. 


(1428), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH OLIVES Filet de Boeuf aux Olives). — 


Have the tenderloin prepared and cooked as described in plain (No. 1423). Detach the g 
from the pan with a little Madeira wine and clear gravy (No. 404) reduced. When reduc 
sufficiently to cover a spoon, strain and replace it on the fire in a low saucepan; add ten ston 
olives for each tenderloin having previously thrown them into boiling water to blanch them 
let them boil up once. Dress the meat, cover with the sauce and arrange the olives around. 


(1429), TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH TRUFFLES (Filet de Bouf aux Truffes), 


Prepare the tenderloin and cook it the same as for tenderloin with olives (No, 1428). 
each ten ounce tenderloin, have about one ounces of truffles, peeled and cooked in Madeira ¥ 
Mince them, that is cut them into very thin slices, and arrange them either over the tenderloi 
else around it, crown-shaped one overlapping the other, Cover the whole with a half-glaze 
(No. 413) and Madeira. 3 ee 


(1430), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, PLAIN (Tournedos de Filet ae a: 
Nature), 


Cut some slices about two and a half ounces, from a well trimmed tenderloin of beef; beat 
lightly to flatten to a quarter of an inch thick, pare them routid shaped two and a quarter in 
in diameter. Each piece of tournedos after being trimmed should weigh two oun 
season with salt and pepper, then warm some fat in a sautéingipan, lay in the to rn 
one beside the other and cook them on a brisk fire, being careful to turt 
only once during that time. Drdin, wipe and glaze them with some meat glaz 
402), using a brush for the purpose; dress, and pour a little clear gravy (No ». 
into the bottom of the dish. It will take about four minutes to have the 
five to have them properly done, and six to have them well done. 


(1431), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BRETIGNY (Tournedos de Filet de 
a la Brétigny), 


Prepare and cook the tournedos as for plain (No. 1480); glaze them, then lay them on a C 
one slice overlapping the other. Split through the back as many reedbirds as there are tourne 
uk 3 them as follows: Bone them, season with salt, pepper, sauté them on a quick 
while the tournedos are being prepared. Garnish one side of the meat with sweetbread m 
and fried in butter with fine herbs and lemon juice, and the other side with sliced mushroon 

ie on in butter with fine herbs (No. 385) and lemon juice, dress the reedbirds on both ends. 

‘le Madeira sauce (No, 492), with truffle essence (No. 395) into the bottom of the dish, 
burve some of the same sauce in a separate sauce-boat. 





Fig. 319. 


BEEF. | 497 


(1432), TOURNEDOS 0F TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA FPLAVIGNAN, WITH SMALL STUFFED 
TOMATOES (Tournedos de Filet de Beuf 4 la Flavignan, avec Petites Tomates Farcies), 
Prepare the tournedos exactly the same as for the plain (No. 1480), glaze and dress them in 
2. straight row one overlapping the other; garnish the sides of the dish with as many small tomatoes 
as there are pieces of meat, and serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separate. 


Small Stuffed Tomatoes.—Cut off the tops half an inch in diameter, and scoop out the interiors; 
squeeze them without misshaping them, and remove the insides with a small vegetable scoop. Rub 
lightly the bottom of a bowl with some garlic, and for half a pound of chicken forcemeat (No. 89), 
placed in the bowl, mix in the same quantity of foies-gras taken from a terrine; add a quarter of a 
pound of mushrooms and two ounces of chopped truffles, salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, a 
little Madeira wine, and grated parmesan cheese. Fill the tomatoes with this preparation and bake 
them in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. 


(1433), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA HUTCHING (Toumedos de Filet de Beuf 
& la Hutching), 


To be prepared and cooked exactly the same as plain tournedos (No. 1480); after being glazed, 
set them on a dish over croquettes of horseradish and cream made the same size as the tournedos. 


For Croquettes of Horseradish.—Reduce some good cream to half its quantity, add two ounces 
of butter, season it with salt and nutmeg, and stir in it sufficient grated fresh horseradish to form a 
consistent paste; let cool, then shape them into inch and a half balls, flatten them down to a third 
of their diameter, dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter. Place on each 
tournedo a slice of applefried in butter, and in the center of this lay around slice of cooked ham 
an inch in diameter by a quarter of an inch thick, also fried in butter; drain off the butter; and 
detach the glaze from the pan with a clear gravy (No. 404), half-glaze (No. 400) and some Madeira; 
strain the sauce through a fine sieve, and pour it on to the dish around the tournedos. 


(1434), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA LAGUIPIERRE (Tournedos de Filet de 
Bouf & la Laguipierre). 

Cut off slices from a nice small tenderloin of beef, pare well, and beat lightly to flatten 
to a quarter of an inch thick, trim them round-shaped two and a quarter inches in diam- 
eter; they should weigh after being pared two ounces each; season them with salt and pepper. 
then lay them on a dish and pour over some Madeira wine, letting them macerate for one hour 
turning them over several times; drain and wipe them nicely. Put some clarified butter into a sauce- 
pan, when very hot set in the tournedos one beside the other, place the pan on a hot fire, and cook 
them the same as the plain tournedos (No. 1480). Drain off the butter, putin a little ciear gravy 
(No. 404) and meat glaze (No. 402), reduce the liquid quickly, turning the tournedos over to glaze 
them. Prepare beforehand slices of unsmoked red beef tongue, two inches in diameter by a 
quarter of an inch thick, also some round slices of foies-gras, one and ahalf inches in diameter 
by three-sixteenths of an inch, and rounds of truffles one inch by an eighth of an inch in thick- 
ness. Dress the tournedos on slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, and two and a half 
inches in diameter; these slices to be fried in butter; lay on top of each one a tournedos, and or 
these the foies-gras, and finally the round slice of truffle. Pour overa Laguipierre sauce (No. 
486). 


(1435), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MARIETTA (Tournedos de Filet de 
| Bouf & la Marietta). 

Have the tournedos prepared the same as for a la Laguipierre (No. 1434); set them on a dish 
over round slices of bread cut the same diameter as the tournedos, fried in butter, and a quarter 
of an inch thick. Cover them with port wine sauce (No. 492) into which mix some finely 
chopped up shallots previously blanched, some finely cut and chopped oronge mushrooms, nutmeg, 
espagnole sauce (No. 414), lemon juice, and pistachio nuts cut.in fillets. Garnish around with tim- 
bales made of short paste (No. 135), filling them either with noodles or parboiled macaroni, 
drained and reduced with broth (No. 194a), seasoning with pepper, nutmeg and parmesan cheese, 
also some butter and velouté (No. 415). Between each timbale lay slices of tongue cut the 


shape of cock’s-combs, and warmed in butter, then glazed. 


(1436), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA ROQUEPLAN (Tournedos de Filet de 
Boeuf & la Roqueplan), 


Prepare some tournedos the same as for & la Laguipierre (No. 1484); lard one of them: 
with salt pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), one with cooked tongue, one with cooked ham, and one with 


498 THE EPICUREAN. 


éruffies cut the same size as the pork. When the tournedos are done, glaze, then dress them on 
a dish, intercalating each one with a fried egg-yolk; place on top game quenelles (No. 91) 
shaped in a hollow tartlet mold, and decorated with truffles. Pour into the bottom of the 
dish, a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze (No. 413) with clear gravy (No. 404), and 
garnish around with fried potatoes 2 ulienne (No. 2792), just when ready to serve. 


(1437), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA TALABASSE (Tournedos de Filet de 


Beuf & la Talabasse), : 

Cook very rare some plain tournedos (No. 1480); lay them over sippets of bread fried in butter, 
and place around them slices of marrow, and on top of each tournedos a little horseradish butter 
(No. 578), mingled with chopped up and parboiled shallot, also some chopped parsley. Set the 
dish for one moment in the oven, and serve very hot. 


(1438), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA VICTORIN (Tournedos de Filet de Bouf 
& la Victorin), 


Prepare and cook the tournedos exactly the same as for Laguipierre (No. 1434). lay them on 


top of pieces of thin bread, cut the same diameter as the tournedos, and cover them with a thick 
celery purée (No. 711); place on top a ring cut from a carrot, two inches in diameter, and a quarter 
of an inch thick, with an empty space in the center of an inch and a quarter, blanched, braised, 
and reduced to a glaze; set on atop large mushroom stuffed with fine cooked herbs (No. 385) 
thickened with allemande sauce (No. 407), and baked in the oven till a fine color. Pour around an 
espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with sherry wine, and when ready to serve incorporate into it 
a piece of good butter, working it in well with a whisk (Fig. 154). 


(1439), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH RAISINS (Tournedos de Filet de Bouf 
aux Raisins), 

These are to be prepared and cooked as for tournedos Laguipierre (No. 1484); reduce 

a gill of tomato sauce (No. 549), with one gill of espagnole (No. 414), and half a gill of 

Madeira wine; when all is well reduced, strain it through a very fine sieve, put it back 


into the saucepan, and add to it eight fresh Malaga raisins for each piece of meat, or in case there 


are none fresh, then use dried ones, seeded and softened in a little Malaga wine. Dress the tour- 
nedos on slices of bread their same diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick, fried in butter, set 
the raisins around, and serve with the sauce poured over. 


(1440), TOURNEDOS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH STRING BEANS (Tournedos de Filet de 
Beuf aux Haricots Verts), 

These are to be prepared the same as for tournedos a la Laguipierre (No. 1484); cook them very 
rare, glaze them with meat glaze, and dress. Surround with a garnishing of string beans a la 
Pettit (No. 2827), around the bean garnishing, place sippets of bread, one and a quarter inches by 
three-sixteenths inches, fried in butter; dress them one overlapping the other. 


(1441), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A L'AMBASSADE—WHOLE (Filet de Boeuf & l’Ambassade— 
Entier), 


Pare a fine tenderloin using the same care as if intended for larding (No. 112); cover it 
with thin slices of fat pork, tie it well so as to keep the latter in position; fill the bottom of a nar- 
row baking pan with slices of pork, laying minced carrots and onions on top, pour over some good, 
melted fat, set the tenderloin over, and put it in the oven for forty to forty-five minutes, basting 
it several times while it is cooking, and turning the baking pan frequently so that the meat cooks 
evenly and colors well, letting it be done rare. A few minutes before serving salt it; when ready 
untie and glaze it, dress the tenderloin on asmall rice foundation, two inches high and of the same 
Shape and size as the tenderloin. On each side arrange a garnishing of small croustades filled 
with baked béchamel cauliflower (No. 2715), at each end place potato balls, fried in butter, three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter; stick five silver skewers into the top of the tenderloin, each one 
made of a fine truffle and sweetbreads; the truffles to be glazed in meat glaze (No. 402). Serve 
a Madeira sauce (No. 492) in a separate sauce-bowl. 

__ Should the tenderloin be needed for a plain dinner, and it were necessary to carve it in the 
<itchen or dining-room, or even in an adjoining pantry, then proceed as follows: Cut the two ends 
of the tenderloin, remove the chain (the chain is the irregular portion partly detached from the 
n), one-half inch from the bottom; cut the end triangle-shaped, then continue cutting very 
> siices. Place each slice on a hot plate with a little good gravy (No. 404) and some of the 

;; Serve the Madeira sauce apart. 





a ae ae BEBE. 499 


(1449), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BAREDA—WHOLE (Filet de Beuf & la Bareda—Entier), 


Trim nicely a fine tenderloin weighing about six pounds. After it is pared the same as 
Bernardi (No. 1444), lard the top of it with medium sized lardings (No. 2, Fig. 52) and raw ham: 
lay in an earthen dish, season with salt and mignonette, and sprinkle it over with pared 
oil. Cut in slices two medium onions and one lemon, add them to the tenderloin with a few sprigs 
of parsley, two bay leaves, some thyme, and a clove of garlic; let remain in this for two hours 
turning the meat constantly while in the marinade. Two hours before ready to serve place ihe 
tenderloin in an oval saucepan with the ingredients around it, moisten it with half a pint of Madeira 
wine, and one pint of beef stock (No. 194a); let it reduce slowly and when the liquor comes to a glaze, 
moisten again with more stock to half the heighth of the meat; boil up, then cover the saucepan 
and set it in the oven. When the tenderloin is nearly done strain the gravy, free it from its fat, 
and reduce it to a half-glaze; trim the tendérloin, lay it on a pan, and glaze it, then dress the 
meat ona bed of risot a la Piemontaise (No. 2981), set around the fillets a fine garnishing made 
of sixteen artichoke bottoms two and a quarter inches in diameter, eight of which to be filled 
with tongue cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, and mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), the 
other eight to be garnished with chicken breast cut in three-sixteenths inch Squares and mixed 
with velouté sauce (No. 415). Place over the garnishing sixteen small grooved mushroom heads 
_ No. 118), and decorate the tenderloin with five truffle and Villeroi quenelle skewers. Serve 
in a separate sauce-boat a velouté (No. 415) and espagnole sauce (No. 414), half of each reduced 
with the stock from the meat, and a little tomato purée (No. 730) added to it. 


(1443), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BAYONNAISE—WHOLE (Filet de Bauf a la Bayonnaise— 
| Entier), 


Select a fine tenderloin of beef, pare it as for a la Bernardi (No. 1444); lard it with 
small pieces of larding|pork (No. 2, Fig. 52). Lay the tenderloin on an oval dish, pour 
over a gill of olive oil, one sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, one bay leaf broken into 
several pieces, and twelve pounded whole peppers. After three hours, drain the meat from 
the marinade, then roast it either on the spit or in the oven, and glaze it a fine color. 
Fry in butter some thin slices an eighth of an inch thick of ham, cutting them halt heart- 
shaped; arrange them on each end of the tenderloin, garnishing the sides with macaroni 
prepared as follows: Blanch some macaroni, drain, and return it to the saucepan with some stock 
(No. 194a); let boil, and reduce for twenty minutes, so that the stock is entirely evaporated, then 
season with pepper, nutmeg, and grated parmesan. Toss the mucaroni and cheese in the 
Saucepan so that it will be thoroughly stirred without using a spoon. Serve separately a half-glaze 
(No. 413) and tomato sauce (No. 549), not too thick. 


(1444), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BERNARDI—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf a la Bernardi—Entier) 

Prepare and lard a fine tenderloin as already explained (No. 112). Garnish tbe bottom 
of a pan with slices of pork, minced carrots and onions, and place the tenderloin on top; 
cover it with some good fat and put it in a very hot oven to roast; the time for accomplishing 
this is thirty minutes for a four pound tenderloin, then let it rest on a heater or in any warm 
place for ten minutes or longer; five pounds will take thirty-five minutes, and twelve minutes to 
rest, while six pounds will take forty-five minutes and fifteen minutes to rest. As soon as the 
tenderloin is nearly done, salt it properly, before serving pare both ends, remove the chain, give it 
a good appearance, glaze, then dress it on a grooved rice foundation, previously browned in the 
oven. Dress around the tenderloin, small croustades made of fine foundation paste (No. 135) laid 
into deep tartlet molds: fill these croustades with a little macédoine thickened with butter anda 
little béchamel (No. 409), over this macédoine set a round game forcemeat quenelle, (No. 91) 
forced through a cornet on a buttered tin sheet quenelle, being the same in diameter as the crous- 
tades; put in the center of each a ring of thinly sliced truffle, then poach them in a slow oven 
Serve separately a sauce Périgueux (No, 517), adding to it some small one-eighth inch squares of 


cooked ham. 


(1445), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BIENVENUE—WHOLB (Filet de Beuf & la Bienvenue 
—Entier), 
Tenderloins intended for braising purposes should be chosen fat, for the lengthy cooking 
they have to undergo diminishes their size considerably. Raise the tenderloin, remove all the 
fat, and separate the skin from the meat; have ready large lardings of pork (No. 1, Fig. 52), 


500 THE EPICUREAN 






season them with thyme, chopped and finely pounded bay leaf, salt, pepper and allspice. Lard the — 
inside of the tenderloin with these, cover with thin bardes of fat pork and tie it well. Garnish the 
bottom of a braziere with slices of pork, moistening with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), put in the meat, ie 4 
warm it, then push the pan into the oven to simmer for three or four hours according to the size of _ 
the tenderloin. Strain the gravy through a fine sieve, skim off the fat, reduce it, then drain the — 
tenderloin, glaze and set it on a dish or on a rice foundation. Skim and reduce the stock from the — a 
meat with an espagnole and marsala sauce (No. 492), strain it through a sieve, garnish around the __ 
tenderloin with pieces of unsmoked red beef tongue cut heart-shaped, also some minced truffles, a 
and quenelles a la Villeroi, add some fine butter to the sauce, and serve in a separate sauce-boat. _ 


(1446). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA CAUCHOISE—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Cauchoisse— 
Entier), | oo 
Have prepared and cooked a tenderloin as explained in ala Bernardi (No. 1444); when done 
and glazed, dress it and garnish it around with cabbage. Lay on top of the cabbage, slices of 
sausage, decorate the ends with turnips cut cork-shaped, blanched and cooked in beef stock (No. 
194a) with butter and sugar, and then reduced to a glaze; serve a separate espagnole sauce (No. 
414), reduced with some clear gravy (No. 404). Sse 
How to Prepare the Cabbaye.— Mince two cabbages, blanch them. for ten minutes, drain and 
place them in a saucepan covering them with some beef stock (No. 194a) with one third of the 
volume of fat taken from the stock pot; add one pound of sausage, a carrot cut lengthwise in 
four, and two medium onions with two cloves in them, also a bunch of parsley garnished with 
bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper, cook slowly, remove all the fat and let reduce toa half-glaze. 


(1447), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA OHANZY—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Chanzy—Entier) 


Pare and lard a fine tenderloin of beef; lay it in a deep baking pan lined with sliced onions, 
carrots and fat bacon and baste over with butter; salt and cover with buttered paper. Roast it for 


: 
; 
t 


©) 
Fia. 320. 


»y 


OST / 





one hour in a moderate oven basting frequently and adding a gill of hot broth from time to time; 
lastly, drain off the tenderloin, pare it neatly and dress on a long dish, surround with a hand- 
some garnishing composed of two pretty groups of turned and glazed carrots, two clusters of fine — 
green peas cooked English style (No. 2742), alternated with a few very white mushroom heads, 
etc., at the same time serve a boatful of good thick gravy (No. 405). 


(1448), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA CONDE—WHOLE (Filet de Boouf & la Condé—Entier), 


Arrange the tenderloin and cook it the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443): glaze it, then 
lay it PP ace foundation, garnishing it around with game croquettes (No. 885); intercalating 
them with small chicken timbales. _ Decorate the meat with three or five skewers made of truffles 
and cocks’-combs; serve a tomato sance 3 la Condé (No. 550) separately. This dish is prepared 
to figure at a dinner party, but not being carved, it cannot be conveniently handed round, so after 
being shown on the table, it should -be removed and cut into slices, placing one on each plate 


with some of the garnishing and sauce, then handed to the guests. 


(1449). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF BREADED AND BROWNED IN THE OVEN ALA D'AURELLES 
(Filet de Beuf Pané et Ooloré au Four ala d'Aurelles), 


This tenderloin should be prepared the same as for & l'Ambassade (No. 1441); whén done, 
ne orain and cover it with four egg-yolks mixed with two ounces of melted butter, salt and 
stound nutmeg. Besprinkle over with bread-crumbs in which mingle a little grated parmesan 


tmmM 





BEEF. 501 


cheese; press the bread-crumbs down slightly with the blade of a knife, and pour over some melted 
fresh butter. Set the meat in a hot oven so as to brown quickly; serve it up and garnish the dish 
with veal kernels (or small sweetbreads). Pour a Périgueux sauce (No. 517), over the garnishing 
and finish with small quenelles. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) is to be served separately. 


(1450), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA DORLEANS—WHOLE (Filet de Beuf & la @Orléans— 
Entier), 


Have a fine tenderloin larded with strips of cooked red beef tongue and truffles, cook it the 
same as for a la Bienvenue (No. 1445); glaze, then dress it, garnishing one side with small chicken 
quenelles molded with a teaspoon (No. 155), and the other side with some small peeled truffles pre- 
viously warmed in Madeira sauce and meat-glaze. Place at both ends rounds or slices of cooked 
ham, cut one and a half inches wide by an eighth of an inch thick, aud warmed in a little butter and 
meat glaze (No. 402). Decorate with skewers made of game quenelles A la Villeroi and cocks’- 
combs. Served separately an Orléans sauce (No. 512). 


(1451), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA GODARD—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Godard—Entier), 


After cooking a tenderloin of beef the same as for 4 la Bienvenue (No. 1445) pare and glaze it. 
Make a foundation of rice, two inches high, and from ten to twelve inches long and five inches 
wide, egg the surface, flute it symmetrically and color it in a hot oven. Lay this on the middle 
of a hot dish, set the tenderloin on top and garnish around with twelve truffles cooked in 
Madeira wine, twelve fine mushroom heads grooved and turned round (No. 118), and twelve 
cock’s-combs. Moisten with a little half-glaze (No. 400). Set around twelve oval quenelles 
decorated with red beef tongue, decorate the top with five skewers made of truffles and double 
cocks’-combs, and serve with a half-glaze (No. 413) separately. 


(1452), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MELINET—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Melinet—Entier). 


Have a fine tenderloin prepared and cooked as for ala Bayonnaise (No. 1448), pare, glaze 
and dish it, garnishing it with the following preparation made in advance. Cut some round pieces 
of unsmoked red beef tongue two inches in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; 
prepare a macédoine, thickened with béchamel (No. 409), well buttered and set away to 
cool; place on each slice of tongue a lump of this macédoine an inch and a half in diameter, flatten 
it down slightly, and cover it entirely with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Baste over with 
melted butter, and sprinkle grated parmesan cheese on top, place on a well-buttered baking pan, set 
them in a slow oven aud as soon as they are a fine color remove and arrange them on each side of 
the tenderloin; place a glazed mushroom on each piece of garnishing and serve separately a marin- 
ade sauce (No. 496), with chopped up truffles added. 


(1453), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MILANESE—WHOLE (Filet de Boouf & 1a Milanaise—Entier), 


‘The tenderloin is to be prepared and cooked the sameas for a l’Ambassade (No. 1441). When 
done remove it from the fire, wipe away all the fat and moisture adhering to it, brush it over with 
beaten eggs and cover with fresh bread crumbs and parmesan cheese; besprinkle with butter and 
brown it nicely in the oven. Arrange it on a foundation made of short paste (No. 135), garnishing 
around with small spaghetti macaroni blanched, then drained and. cooked in some consommé 
(No. 189). Season with salt and mix in some parmesan cheese and a little brown sauce; add the 
inacaroni, tongue, truffles and mushrooms, all cut Julienne shape. Serve separately an espagnole 


sauce (No. 414) reduced with some good gravy. 


(1454), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MONTEBELLO—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Montebello— 
Entier), 


To be prepared and cooked the same as explained for 4 la Bayonnaise (No. 1443); after it 
is done, pared and glazed, dress it on a symmetrically trimmed rice foundation, and garnish it 
with a preparation made beforehand, composed of sixteen artichoke bottoms two inches in diameter. 
Fill with a salpicon made of sweetbreads, truffles, and mushrooms, to which has been added some well 
reduced allmande sauce (No. 407); have it slightly bomb-shaped and cover the whole with a cream 


Le Ane’ 
Em mt ed 
ae 


502 Tht EPICUREAN 

foreemeat (No, 74); sprinkle over very anae chopped tongue, pour over some butter, and poate 
the whole in the oven for fifteen minutes or more; have some mushroom heads fried in butter, 
and seasoned, finished with some meat glaze (No. 402) and fine herbs. Dress: the artichoke bottoms. 
on each side of the tenderloin, the cooked mushrooms at the end; pour some well- seasoned thick- 
ened gravy (No. 405) over, and serve a Montebello sauce (No. 502) separate. 


(1455), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, NEAPOLITAN STYLE—WHOLE (Filet de Boeuf & 1a Napolitaine. | 


—Entier), 


Have a fine tenderloin cooked and prepared as described in ala Bienvenue (No. 1445); only 
lard it with pork and ham, cut the size shown in No. 2, Fig. 52; when done, pare, glaze, and lay 
it on a trimmed rice foundation, garnishing around with macaroni croquettes. Strain the braise, 


skim off the fat, and reduce it with some broken game bones and half a pint of Malaga wine; — 


strain again, keep back one-third without adding anything to it to put with the meat, and divide: 
to one add some citron cut in fine Julienne shape, and to the other some sultana raisins; serve: 
the remainder into two equal parts; the citron sauce in one sauce-boat, and the raisin sauce in 
another, or the two may be mingled together. 


(1456), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF juts. RICHELIEU, MODERN—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la. 
. ; Richelieu, Moderne—Entier), 


Arrange the tenderloin and cook it the same as for a la Bernardi (No. 1444) a few moments. 


before serving, glaze it and lay it on arice foundation on a dish sufficiently large to garnish 


one side with stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), and a bunch of glazed lettuce (No. 2753); the 
other side with stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), and some braised celery (No. 2721), and at each end 
a cluster of potatoes trimmed to the size of a small egg, and boiled in salted water for twenty 
minutes; drain off the water, and crush each potato separately in a cloth, then reshape them and. 


range them on a buttered pan, pour some more butter over, and brown nicely in the oven, then ~ 


add more butter, simply melted, neither cleared nor clarified. This meat may be ornamented by 
setting five skewers into it garnishing them with finely cut up vegetables. A Madeira sauce (No. 
492) in a sauce-boat to be served separately. 


(1457), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF ALA ROTHSCHILD—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf 4 la Rothschild— 
Entier), 


Pare a tenderloin and cook it the same as for & la Bienvenue (No. 1445); after it is done drain. 
off the gravy, free it from fat, and reduce it to a half-glaze. Fry in butter some half heart-shaped. 
slices of Westphalia ham, drain off the butter, remove the ham, and add half as much half-glaze- 
(No. 400) as espagnole (No. 414), then reduce it to a proper consistency, and when ready to serve- 
work in a small piece of butter; serve part of this sauce separately. Dress the tenderloin on a rice: 
foundation (No. 10), garnish with some breasts of quail sautéd in butter, the ham, also fried 
scallops of foies-gras; cover this garnishing with the reserved sauce espagnole and half-glaze; lay 


on top the tenderloin, eight Villeroi quenelles and between each quenelle a double and 
curled cock’s-comb. 


(1458), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA ROYAL—WHOLE (Filet de Beufa la Royale—Entier), 


Prepare tenderloin as described & ’Ambassade in No. 1441; lard the interior with pork, ham 
and truffles, each cut into lardings three-eighths of an inch square. When thr fillet is cooked, 
drain the gravy, skim off the fat, and set it into another saucepan with some broken game bones; 
simmer for one hour, then strain and add to it its equal quantity of espagnole (No. 414); reduce this. 
sauce to proper consistency, being careful to remove all the grease and scum arising to the surface; 
put aside a third part of it, and add to the two-thirds remaining some grooved or turned mushrooms. 
(No. 118); forcemeat quenelles round-shape and truffles cut olive- -shaped. Pare and glaze the ten- 
derloin, and dress it on a rice foundation; place the garnishing around in clusters and decorate the 

enderloin with five skewers, made of coc ks -combs and truffles. Sauté a little minced raw ham in 
butter, moisten with a gill of Madeira wine and the third part of the gravy kept back from the 


rote 


rest; boil, sim, drain through a sieve and serve in a separate sauce-boat. 


459), TEV ERLOIN OF BEEF A LA SOLOHUB—WHOLE (Filet de Boufa& la Solohub—Entier). 


Prepa ‘caderloin of beef in the following manner: After it has been well pared stud with 
‘he “ore part of it the center), and the narrow end third, lard with pork lardons (Fig. 52, 





i ee. ee a oe 





VHRBREERY > | 503 


‘No. 2), leaving the other end unlarded. Cover the studded part with a band of fat pork, line a. 
long, narrow braziere with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley; 
place the fillet on this; braise the meat with a very little moisture, only adding stock when it becomes. 
too reduced; when almost done take out the meat and place it on a baking sheet; egg and bread-crumb: 
the unlarded end, bestrew with grated cheese, pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven. 
Dress on a rice foundation into which has been mixed some quarter inch squares of foies-gras.. 
Garnish the sides of the tenderloin with minced cépes a la Bordelaise (No. 1574) and the ends with 
small patties filled with tomato purée (No. 730), strained through a very fine sieve and to which has. 
been added some meat glaze (No. 402), thickening at the last moment with cream and egg-yolks. 
Serve a Russian sauce (No. 535) separately. 


(1460), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA TRAVERS—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf & la Travers—Entier), 


To be prepared exactly as for ala Bayonnaise (No. 1448), and when cooked glaze it after paring 
it nicely and set it on a rice foundation.. Garnish around with artichoke bottoms filled 
with a sweetbread croquette preparation (No. 893), dip them in eggs, bread-crumb them and fry, 
have also a garnishing of* small timbales made .of timbale , paste (No, 150), filled.with spinach 
and cream, and covered with: small puff paste tops. Pour a little good gravy‘ (No. 404) into the 
bottom of the dish, and serve separately a marinade sauce (No. 496) well buttered with chopped 
mushrooms added. 


(1461), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF BRAISED WITH ROOTS—WHOLE (Filet de Boouf Braisé aux 
Racines—Entier), 


The tenderloin for this must be prepared and cooked the same as for a la Bienvenue (1445); 
glaze, then dress it and garnish around with small olive-shaped carrots first blanched, then cooked 
in broth (No. 194a), butter and sugar; when done the broth will be reduced to a glaze; also have tur- 
nips cut ball-shaped, blanched, then cooked in broth, butter and sugar and reduced the same as 
the carrots; some small glazed onions, and celery roots cooked in gravy (No. 404). Serve separately 
the braise stock reduced with espagnole (No. 414); when ready to serve add some Madeira wine. 


(1462), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, HUNTER’S STYLE—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf au Chasseur—Entier), 


This tenderloin is to be cooked and prepared exactly the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443); 
pare it, glaze, and dress it on a rice or short paste (No. 135) foundation, garnishing around and on: 
each side with game quenelles (No. 91), molded in a tablespoon (Fig. 80), and laying them one: 
beside the other on a buttered tin sheet; pour into this sheet some boiling salted water, and keep: 
the water continually boiling while poaching the quenelles until they are thoroughly done.. 
Raise the tenderloins and sirloin from four young rabbits or any other kind of game, paring them 
to the same shape as the rabbit tenderloin; remove all the nerves with the tip of a knife, then lay 
them on a dish, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf, branches of parsley, minced! 
carrots and onions, lemon juice, and two tablespoonfuls of oil; let them marinate in this for 
one hour, being careful to turn them over several times, then take them from the dish without 
the vegetables and after dipping them into a frying batter (No. 137); fry them a fine color andi 
garnish with these. Have a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), add to it some game carcasses and Madeira. 
wine, when the same is ready strain either through a sieve or tammy, and mix in with the sauce: 
some eighth of an inch square pieces of cooked ham. Pour a third of this around the tenderloin, 


and send the rest to the table in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1463), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, INDIAN STYLE—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf a 1’Indienne— 
Entier), 


Have a fine tenderloin prepared and cooked as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443), then glaze 
and dish it, garnishing the sides with rice timbales, and the ends with small rice croquettes the 
size and shape of Spanish olives. Serve in a separate sauce-boat a light poivrade sauce (No. 522) 
with curry. : 

Indian Rice.—How to prepare the rice for the timbales. and croquettes: Pick one pound of 
rice, wash well, blanch and drain it; set it in a saucepan with half a pound of butter, and the 
decoction of a pinch of saffron infused in half a gill of water, salt and cayenne pepper. Cover the 
rice with beef stock (No. 194a), boil and let finish cooking in a slow oven for half an hour, then re- 
f it and put it into.a bowl, mixing in with it sufficient allemande sauce (No. 
then let get cool, and afterward form it into croquettes the. 
fill some timbale molds with the balance of the rice. 


move a quarter o 
407) to give it consistency, 
size and shape of a Spanish olive, 


504 THE EPICUREAN. 


(464), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA PRINTANIERE—WHOLE (Filet de Boouf la Printanitre— 


Entier), 
Pare a tenderloin, lard it with fat salt pork cut in the shape of lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); 
garnish the bottom of a long narrow braziere with fragments of fat pork, minced vegetables, 
onions and aromatics; moisten the meat with a pint of stock (No. 194a); reduce this 


liquid slowly to a glaze, then remoisten to three-quarters of its heighth. Boil the liquid 3 
for seven to eight minutes and cover the tenderloin with buttered paper; close the braziere, put it_ 


back on a slower fire and continue to cook with fire over and under for a couple of hours basting it 
oftentimes with its stock. The meat ought now to be perfectly well done; drain it off to pare; strain 





and free the stock from fat, pour into it one glassful of Marsala wine and reduce to a half-glaze. 
Place the tenderloin on a deep baking pan, pour the stock over and glaze while basting frequently; 
drain off and strain the stock once more, suppress all of its fat and thicken with a few spoonfuls of 
brown sauce (No. 414) or tomato sauce (No. 549); keep itin a bain-marie. Fasten a wooden foundation 
covered with cooked paste on the bottom of a long dish, glaze with a brush. Carve the tenderloin 
into slices, reshape as before and dress it on this foundation; surround with a fine variegated 
garnishing divided in groups composed of braised lettuce, small timbales of vegetables, small glazed 
earrots, flowerets of cauliflower and lozenge-shaped string beans. Glaze the meat and cover the 


bottom of the dish with a small part of the sauce having the rest served in a sauce-boat. 


(1465), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUFFLES—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf aux Truffes—Entier), | 


To be prepared as for lAmbassade (No. 1441); stud the tenderloin with raw truffles cut to repre- 
sent nails, drive them in the surface of the meat one inch apart from each other, using a wooden 
peg for.the purpose a little smaller than the nail. Cover the tenderloin with slices of fat pork, and 


tie them on; finish cooking exactly the same as tenderloin 4 la Bayonnaise (No. 1443), and when 
_ the meat is done, drain, trim and dress it on a long dish, garnish on each side with small peeled 


truffies, covering with clear half-glaze (No. 400). Serve separately a Madeira sauce with essence 


of truffles (No. 395). 


(1466). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES—WHOLE (Filet de Bouf aux Légumes— 
Entier), 

Prepare and cook the tenderloin exactly asfor 4 la Bienvenue (No. 1445); after having it pared 
and glazed, set it on a small rice foundation, garnishing it around with the following vegetables 
arranged in separate groups in order to vary their different colors. This dish can be decorated 
with pear-shaped carrots, small clusters of cauliflower, turnips cut into balls, artichoke bottoms 


garnished with Brussels sprouts, small glazed onions or any other vegetable in season, being careful 


to suppress any kind that will be served at the same dinner, and which has intentionally been 
avoided in this, such as asparagus tops, for there is seldom a dinner when this vegetable is not 
served in some way or the other, either as cream soup, or plain boiled. Also green peas, string 
beans and flageolets, these all being generally used as vegetables served with the entrées. Mush- 
rooms are also employed largely for garnishing, and boiled potatoes are invariably served with 


fish. Send a sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to the table, the same time as the tender- 
loin. 


(1467), BEEF TONGUE A LA ROMAINE (Langue de Beuf 4 la Romaine), 


Remove from a beef tongue, the fat and cartilaginous part lying near the end. Soak it for 
hour and a half in cold water, then put it into asaucepan sufficiently large to contain a gallon 
water, adding salt, pepper and one onion with two cloves; let cook for three hours. Remove 
<in covering the tongue, and place the latter on a dish, garnishing around it with small ravioles 
29 6), mingled with gravy (No. 404), tomato- purée (No. 730), and parmesan cheese; serve 
y a Roman sauce (No. 584). - 


One 





ee ee sw ee 2 


— 





BEEF. yee 505. 


(1468), BEEF TONGUE A LA SOLIGNY (Langue de Boouf & la Soligny), 


Prepare and cook a beef tongue the same as beef tongue Roman (No. 1467); cut it into quarter 
of an inch thick slices; and from these cut circles of one and three-quarter inches in diameter, also 
as many slices of truffles as there are circles of tongue; keep them warm in a little meat glaze 
(No. 402) and Madeira wine. . Mince a two-ounce onion, fry it in oil with four ounces of artichoke 
bottoms cut into eight pieces, season with salt, pepper and a little garlic, adding the truffles 
and tongue, some lemon juice and chopped parsley, and serve all on a dish surrounded by sippets 
of bread fried in butter. 


(1469). TONGUE, ITALIAN, BAKED (Langue & I’Italienne au Gratin), 


Cold braised tongue may be used for this, or else unsmoked boiled red beef tongue. Cut into 
thin and pared slices, put inside a drill pocket furnished with a grooved socket, some potato cro- 
quette preparation (No. 2782), not too firm; force a border of this on the extreme edge of the 
inside of a dish, garnishing the interior of the border with sliced tongue. Fry in butter one 
shallot, some chives, and a few mushrooms all finely chopped, thicken witha thin béchamel sauce 
(No. 409), stirring in some grated parmesan cheese, cover the tongue with this, sprinkle grated 
bread raspings and parmesan cheese on top, pour over some butter, and put it in the oven to 
acquire a good color. 


(1470), BEEF TONGUE, MACEDOINE (Langue de Bouf Macédoine), 


Pare and remove from a beef tongue the fat and cartilaginous part, lying near the thick end; 
blanch it for fifteen minutes and lard it with small lardings (No. 8, Fig.52); seasoned with 
pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, place the tongue on 
top, and moisten with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), and white wine, then let cook for two and a 
half to three hours according to its size. Remove the skin, strain the stock through a sieve, then 
skim off all the fat and reduce it one third. Glaze the tongue nicely with this, dish it up, and 
garnish around with a vegetable macédoine (No. 2755) thickened with velouté (No. 415) and some 
good butter. A Madeira sauce (No. 492), should be served separately. 


(1471), TRIPE A LA MODE DE CAEN (Gras-double & la Mode de Caen), 


In order to be successful with this recipe, it will be necessary to have a large earthen pot 
and a brick oven with hermetically closed cast iron doors; it will take for a pot containing 
thirty-five pounds, from twelve to fourteen hours; beside the tripe as ordinarily used, include 
also the ‘‘franchmule ” the fourth stomach properly called the reed. (Abomasum) and ‘ feuillet ” 
the third stomach properly called the manyplies (Omasum) and two boned ox feet. The tripe must be 
raw, well cleansed, and extremely fresh. Divide it into pieces two inches square; cover the bottom 
of the pot with slices of pork, lay the tripe on top and season With salt, mignonette, five onions, 
one of them having five cloves in it, a boned ox foot, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, a clove of garlic, and some quartered carrots, and above this set another layer of tripe, 
and ox foot, seasoned with salt and mignonette, and so on until the pot is full, besides adding a 
quart of water. The last layer must be the ‘‘ feuillet.” When the tripe is taken. from the oven, 
remove the ‘‘ feuillet” and skim off all the fat, take out the vegetables and parsley, then serve very 


hot. 
(1472), TRIPE A LA POULETTE WITH MUSHROOMS (Gras-double a la Poulette aux Champignons), 


Select previously well cleansed raw, fat and very fresh tripe, blanch it for ten minuces 
and when drained cool it off, cut it into large pieces and put them into a stock-pot with 
water, salt, allspice, carrots, onion with two cloves, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme 
and bay. leaf; let boil very gently on a slow fire for eight hours keeping the cover on close, then 
put the tripe aside to coolin its own water. Drain and wipe it off, and cut it into two inch by one- 
half inch pieces, then fry them in butter without attaining a color; drain off the butter, cover the 
tripe with an allemande sauce (No. 407), and just when ready to serve incorporate into it a piece 
of fine butter, some chopped parsley and minced mushrooms, and a little lemon juice. 


(1473), TRIPE A LA TARTARE (Gras-double & la Tartare), 


Have some well cooked honey-combed tripe; cut it into two-inch squares, put it in 
a bowl, seasoning it with salt, pepper, parsley and chopped onions; sprinkle over some oil 


506 | THE EPIGUREAN. 


and lemon juice, and let the. tripe maceraté’ in.a ool “place for one-hour. Drain it off, and dip 
each piece in melted butter and fresh, bread-crumbs,, then. broil them on a slow fire. Dress the © 
tripe on a very hot dish, and serve at the same time, but separately, a sauce-bowl of tartar: 


sauce (No. 631). 


(1474) TRIPE BAKED WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Gras-double Parent au Gratin), 


Have some very fresh cooked tripe; cut it into one and a quarter inch squares arrange 
them on a buttered dish in layers, besprinkle each layer with pepper and grated parmesan. 
cheese, and pour over a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and a little. 
good gravy, dredge over the top some bread-crumbs and more grated parmesan, pour over some: 
butter and brown in a hot oven. 


(1475), TRIPE LYONNAISE (Gras-double Lyonnaise), 


Have some fresh tripe, white and well cooked; cut it into strips two inches long by a_ 


quarter of an inch wide; mince four ounces of white onions, fry them slowly in a pan with half oil 


and half -butter, in the meanwhile frying the tripe in another pan; when the contents of both have: 
attained a nice color, mix them together and continue frying for. ten minutes, tossing. them 
constantly, when brown, season with salt, pepper, lemon juice or good vinegar and chopped 
parsley. Drain off the butter well and serve on a very hot dish. 


(1476), TRIPE, PARISIAN STYLE (Gras-double 4 la Parisienne), 


Cut Julienne-shaped (No. 318) some carrots and celery roots, blanch them, drain and fry them in 
lard with minced onions and leeks; add the quarter of the same quantity of mushrooms cut into. — 
three-sixteenth inch squares, and two pounds of tripe cut into strips one inch and a half by one-quar- 
ter of an inch, and season with salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and 
a clove of garlic. Moisten to the height of the tripe with broth (No. 194a), boil up once, and then 
place it in the oven for one hour; skim off the fat, reduce the stock with a tomato sauce (No. 549), 
and soubise sauce (No. 548); serve up the tripe, pouring the reduced sauce over. 


(1477), TRIPE PAUPIETTES (Paupiettes de Gras-double), 


Cut strips of cooked tripe four inches long by two inches wide; cover one side of these with a. 
layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75) mingled with some chopped ham, cooked fine herbs (No. 385); roll 
the strips up, and lay them in buttered tin rings; line a saucepan with slices of fat pork and slices of 
raw ham, carrots, celery, and minced onions, alsdé a garnished bouquet; then place the paupiettes. 
on top. Dilute it to the heighth of the rings with broth (No. 194a). Cover with around piece of but- 
tered paper, and put it to cook in a slack oven for two hours, adding a very small quantity of broth 
each time the gravy becomes too much reduced; when the paupiettes are well done, drain them, 
lay them in a sauté pan, pour over them their own gravy reduced to a half-glaze, and put them 
back into the oven; glaze and dress them on a very hot dish pouring over the gravy to which has. 
been added a tomato sauce (No. 549) and a dash of cayenne pepper, straining the whole through a. 
very fine sieve. 


(1478). TRIPE WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Gras-double aux Fines Herbes Ouites). 


Take some white, fresh, and well-cooked tripe; cut it into strips of one and a half by one inch, 
and fry them in butter. Fry separately in butter some chopped onions and shallots, some chopped 
fresh mushrooms, and when the latter have evaporated their moisture, add half as much chopped 
truffles as there are mushrooms, then put in the tripe, seasoning it all with salt, pepper, a little 


lemon juice, some meat glaze (No. 402) and a very little tomato purée (No. 730), sprinkle over 
some chopped parsley. 





VEAL (Veau). 


(1479), BRAINS A L'AURORA (Cervelles & l'Aurore), 


Remove the thin skin covering the brains also the fibres. Lay the brains in fresh water for 
several hours, carefully changing it at intervals, then put them in a saucepan, cover with water, 
and season with salt, whole pepper, chopped onions, thyme, bay leaf, and a little vinegar. Boil, 
then let simmer for twenty minutes; drain, and cut each one into twelve equal-sized pieces. 
Arrange them ona buttered and bread-crumbed dish, cover with an aurora sauce (No. 480), adding 
to it for each brain the chopped whites of four hard boiled eggs; and some chopped up parsley. 
Set the four hard yolks on a sieve, and with a spoon press them through over the brains. Spread 
some butter on top, and brown in a hot oven. 


(1480). BRAINS A LA CHASSAIGNE (Cervelles & la Chassaigne), 


Prepare the brains the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); drain and dress them on a hot 
dish and cover with the following sauce: Have a pint of velouté (No. 415), four hard boiled egg-yolks. 
pounded with six ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of English mustard; pass the whole through a 
fine sieve, and add chopped and blanched chervil, chives, tarragon, and shallot, also a little spinach 
or vegetal green. Season properly, then add just when serving, a few chopped gherkins; pour this. 
sauce over the brains. 


1481), BRAINS A LA POULETTE WITH MUSHROOMS (Cervelles & la Poulette aux Champignons), 


Soak some brains in cold water for two hours, remove the sangineous skin enveloping 
them, and lay them ina saucepan to cook; cover with water, add a dash of vinegar, some sliced 
-earrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic, and 
whole peppers; cook without boiling, letting them barely simmer on the side of the range half 
an hour; drain on a napkin and cut them lengthwise in four, range in a circle on a dish, and 
fill up the empty space with mushrooms added to a poulette sauce (No, 527), pouring a part of it 
over the brains. Garnish around with triangle-shaped crofitons of bread fried in clarified butter, 
and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. 


(1482), BRAINS IN MATELOTE (Cervelles en Matelote), 


Have the brains prepared and cooked as for the aurora (No. 1479). Brown in a pan either 
with butter or lard, three dozen small raw onions, seasoning with salt and a pinch of sugar; when of a. 
fine color, put them into a small sautoir with some broth (No. 194a), and finish cooking, letting the. 
liquid fall several times to a glaze; drain the brains, wipe dry, and dress them triangle-shaped on 
a dish: between each brain set a few of the onions, a cluster of stoned and stuffed olives, and one: 
of small mushroom heads. Cover the brains with a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with red wine, 
and finished with a little anchovy butter (No. 569); garnish around with trussed crawfish. 


(1483), BRAINS, PEASANT STYLE (Cervelles & la Paysanne), 


Cook the brains and finish them the same as for aurora (No. 1479); drain, wipe, and cut them: 
in thick slices; roll each of these in flour. Put some melted butter into a sautoir, iet boil and 
purify well, and when it begins to blacken, add the pieces of brain; as soon as they are colored on 
one side, turn them over, and let them do likewise on the other, then lift them out without break- 
ing and lay them on a napkin; wipe and then dress the slices on a well buttered white sauce (No. 


562) into which has been mixed lemon juice and chopped parsley. 
(507) 


508 THE EPICUREAN. — 


(1484), BRAINS WITH BLACK OR HAZELNUT BUTTER (Cervelles au Beurre Noir ou au beurre 
Noisette), : 


“ Have the brains prepared and cooked the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); when done 


drain and dress them in the center of a very hot dish; strew over with chopped parsley, salt and — 
pepper and baste with black butter (No. 565); put a dash of vinegar into the pan and pour it over 
the brains with the butter; both butter and vinegar must be strained through a fine sieve. 


(1485), BRAINS WITH TOMATOED BEARNAISE SAUCE (Cervelles 31a sauce Béarnaise 
(Tomatée), 


Skin some brains, that is, remove carefully the membrane that covers them without break- 
ing the brain; soak them in cold water for two hours, then plunge them into boiling water only to 


stiffen; drain and cook them for twelve minutes in a good white wine mirepoix (No. 419) and =m 


arrange them on a dish. Cover with a tomatoed Béarnaise sauce (No. 433). 


(1486). BRAINS WITH VENETIAN OR GREEN HOLANDAISE SAUCE (Cervelles & la Sauce : 
Vénetienne ou & la Sauce Hollandaise Verte), 


Blanch the calves’ brains the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); divide each one in four 
parts and dress every piece on a separate oval-shaped slice of bread that has been fried in butter; 
place them on a hot dish and cover either with Venetian sauce (No. 555), or Hollandaise vert pré 
sauce (No. 477). : 


(1487), BREAST OF VEAL A LA BOURDALOUE (Poitrine de Veau a la Bourdaloue), 


Remove the bones from a breast of veal without touching the gristle; pick the skin with 
a trussing needle to extract all the air, and season it on the boned side; roll it up lengthwise 
and tie. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with a few minced vegetables, lay the breast on top, salt 
lightly and moisten to half its height with some unskimmed stock (No. 194a); add a bunch of 
aromatic herbs, put on the lid and let the liquid reduce to a glaze; remoisten to half its height and | 
finish cooking the meat in a moderate oven, turning it over frequently during the time so that it 
gets a fine color all over. Before serving drain, untie, and keep it warm, while stirring into its 
gravy half a glassful of white wine; let boil, strain through a sieve, free it of its fat and thicken 
with a brownsauce (No. 414). Dress the meat on a long dish and garnish around with veal 
quenelles, and small canapés garnished with chopped up ham, serving the sauce separately. 


(1488), BREAST OF VEAL ALA MONDOUX (Poitrine de Veau & la Mondoux), 


Procure a white and fat breast of veal; cover a baking pan with minced carrots and 
onions, fragments of fat pork and a garnished bouquet; lay the breast on top, moistening to its 
heighth with stock (No.194a); first. boil then cook it in a slack oven for three hours, being careful to 
turn it over several times during this period. When the breast is well done, remove the hard ribs, 
leaving on the gristle; set it under a weight, and when nearly cold bread-crumb them English 
style (No. 13). Butter liberally a baking sheet, lay the meat on top, sprinkle over with more but- 
ter, then brown it nicely in a slow oven. Dress on a long dish and range around a garnishing 
composed of tomatoes cut in halves and the moisture extracted, shredded green peppers, chopped 
onions and a clove of garlic, the whole fried in butter and diluted with a little velouté (No. 415), 
nicely seasoned and besprinkled with chopped parsley. 


(1489), BREAST OF VEAL AU GASTRONOME (Poitrine de Veau au Gastronome). 


Select a fine breast of veal as long and wide as possible; remove the red bones covering 
the gristle, prick the skin with a needle, and lay a towel over the meat, then with a cleaver strike 
the top with a few blows so as to expel the air; slip the blade of a knife between the skin and ribs, 
as far as the gristle and the ends, and fill the space in with a veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) to 
which has been added very finely chopped chives and red beef tongue; sew up the skin quite close 
‘0 the rib bones to give it its original shape. Butter the bottom of a roasting pan; cover it with 
nune ‘d carrots and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley, lay the breast on top, spread it over 

» good fat and pour in a pint of stock (No. 194a) or water. Two and a half hours before serv- 

it the breast into a moderate oven, baste it occasionally, glaze it of a fine color and serve it 


In cy 


at-glaze (No, 400) poured over and gastronome potatoes (No. 2789) around. 





aa 


VEAL, . ; . 509 


VEAL, AMERICAN OUTS (Veau, Ooupe & l'Américame), _ 


1. Head and Neck 6. Breast 











2. Rack 85 Shoulder 


3. Loinand Saddle 




















8. Tail 
4. Leg 9. Fore Quarter 
5. Feet 10. Hind Quarter 
Nr ee toe, Knuckle 
Round oe ¢ 
Tail i... GK. Rs 
| Slice of Round 
Thick End‘of Loin "je. 


IN . Ds ssnenneeemesnernnnnn Kernel 


Vay! 


| a fa eee Pee 3 ey 


oo ae : anh Ghai SES a Quarter 
Fore Quarter --——------- 


annnee Breast 

Rack (Best)'.—...-.-- 
| ae Shoulder 

yj pea ee Nut (Small gland) 





setnnaemnee Tendrons or Gristle 





Spinal Marrow ————--------- “YF A - Knuckle 





510 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1490), BLANQUETTE OF BREAST OF VEAL A LA JACQUART (Blanquette de Poitrine de Veau 
a la Jacquart. 

Have two pounds of breast of veal cut into half inch pieces; lay them in tepid water for two 
hours, then drain and fry colorless in butter; moisten with remoistening (No. 189) add salt, a 
garnished bunch of parsley, one onion, two cloves and pieces of carrots; let all boil for one hour, 
or until finished cooking; drain, and make a velouté (No. 415) with the stock; after this sauce is — 
well skimmed, thicken it with six egg-yolks, butter, and lemon juice; run it through a tammy. — 
Pare the pieces of meat, put them back into the sauce, also the onions and some turned and 
channeled mushrooms (No. 118); stir and toss well together in the saucepan, then dress with 


braized chestnuts (No. 654) around. 
(1491), BREAST OF VEAL STEWED WITH ROUX (Ragotit de Portrine Veau au Roux), 


Cut a breast of veal into pieces an inch and a half square; fry them without browning in some 
butter; then drain this butter off and moisten with a quart of stock (No. 194a). Make a © 
roux (No. 163) not too dark; dilute it with a part of the stock, then throw in the veal, one carrot, 
two onions (one of them having two cloves in it) and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf; season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and let boil slowly for one hour, then add 
forty small onions fried to a fine color in butter and twenty turned mushroom heads (No. 118). 
When the meat is done, the sauce should be reduced to a proper consistency; dress the veal, lay 
the small onions around with the turned mushrooms; season the sauce, strain it through a sieve 
and pour it over the stew. . 


(1492), BREAST OF VEAL WITH TOMATOES, QUEEN STYLE—STUFFED (Poitrine de Veav. 
Farcie aux Tomates Reine), 

Select the breast of veal as long and wide as it can be had; split it open its entire length on 
the straight side without separating the two parts, or eveii the ends; season the inside with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, then proceed to fill the empty space with a forcemeat prepared as follows: 
have one pound of lean veal, the same of fat pork, and half a pound of panada (No. 121); chop 
the veal and pork up separataly, add to it the panada, then pound the whole well together with some 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, two whole eggs, two spoonfuls of parsley, half a pound of mushrooms, — 
and half a pound of ham both chopped. Mix well this preparation, and fill the breast with it; sew 
up the aperture with coarse thread, then lay the meat in a braziere lined with slices of fat pork, 
minced carrots and onions; moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), and after letting it fall toa 
glaze, moisten itonce more with a quart of stock; when this comes to a boil, set the pan in a moder- 
ate oven for two hours and a half to three hours, basting it over frequently, and when done glaze 
it to a fine color. Strain and skim off the fat from the gravy, and reduce it to a half-glaze; dress 
the meat on a long dish, pour part of the gravy over, and garnish the dish with queen tomatoes 
(No. 2840), serve a separate sauce-boat of the same stock reduced with the same quantity of 
espagnole sauce (No. 414). 


(1493), BREAST OF VEAL A LA MENAGERE (Poitrine de Veau & la Ménagtre), 

Have a fine fat breast of veal; prick the skin with a needle, cover over with a cloth; strike it 
‘several blows with a cleaver, then fry it lightly in butter, and when nicely browned, remove and 
trim it into an oval-shape; return it to the saucepan, add small bits of bacon, carrot, and turnip 
in the shape of balls; moisten with white wine and stock (No. 194a), then let fall toa glaze. Re- 
moisten again and cook the meat in a slow oven while moistening frequently until thoroughly 
done, then dress it with the carrots on one side and the turnips on the other, the pieces of bacon 
‘on the ends; strain the gravy, free it of its fat, and reduce it toa half-glaze. Just when ready 
to serve, add to half of the gravy a liberal piece of fresh butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley, 
‘serve it In a sauce-boat; pour over the breast the remaining gravy. 


(1494), OALP'S CROW A LA NORMANDE (Praise de Veau & la Normande). 
After soaking a fine calf’s crow, cut it up into quarter pound pieces. Lay on the bottom of 
the vessel intended for cooking this dish, first a layer of calf’s feet cut in two lengthwise and the 
crow, on top a bed of minced onions and shallots, a little garlic and chopped parsley; season each 
ayer with salt and mignonette, continuing until the vessel is full; then cover over with a piece of 
‘t pork and add a bunch of thyme, bay leaf and parsley; pour over two bottlefuls of cider with a 
of brandy. Hermetically close the vessel by rubbing a little paste between it and the lid, 
‘i tn a@ slack baker's oven for six hours; skim off the grease; remove the meat, free it from 

iton a chafing dish and strain the stock over. 








Meee VBAL. da 


a 
(1495), VEAL CUTLETS A LA CHIPOLATA. (G6telettes de Veau & la Chipolata), 

_ Pare some veal cutlets and lard them with cooked unsmoked red beef tongue. Cover the bot- 
tom of a buttered sautoir with round slices of onions, carrots, thyme, bay leaf, and branches of 
parsley; lay the cutlets on top and moisten to the heighth of the vegetables with stock (No.194a); cover 
_with a, buttered paper, let boil and cook on a moderate fire basting them frequently. Dress the 
cutlets when done, strain the stock, skim off the fat and reduce it to a half-glaze, add as much 
brown sauce (No. 414) and garnish with braised chestnuts (No. 654), braised carrots and turnips, 
also some mushrooms and small boiled chipolata sausages (No. 754). 


(1496), VEAL CUTLETS PLAIN AND A LA GEORGINA (Cételettes de Veau Nature et & la Georgina’. 

Have a rack of very white veal containing four covered ribs; bone the chain of the spine and 
saw off the rib bones from the beginning of the spine; trim the chops thus obtained, flatten 
them lightly and pare them rounded at the angles; season with salt, lay them in melted butter. 
Twenty minutes before serving broil them on a slow, well maintained fire to let them acquire a 
good color; it will require from sixteen to eighteen minutes to cook them to perfection, turning 
them over after they have been on eight cr nine minutes. Dress them on hot dishes, pour some 
clear gravy (No. 404) over and serve. 


A la Georgina.—Dress the cutlets crown-shape and garnish around or in the center with risot 
and parmesan cheese (No. 739), and minced mushrooms in the center. Around the risot place 
artichoke bottoms cut in twe and fried in butter. Pour into the bottom of the dish some light 
gravy (No. 404), and serve a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) mixed separately. 


(1497), VEAu OUTLETS A LA SEYMOUR (Cotelettes de Veau & la Seymour), 

Prepare the cutlets the same as when cooked plain (No. 1496), season and dip in eggs, roll them 
in chopped up truffles and bread-crambs and fry in clarified butter. Dress and garnish around with 
flowerets of cauliflower and cromesquis of sweetbreads (No. 872). Pour part of a ravigote sauce 
(No. 531) over the cutlets, serving the remainder separately. 


(1498), VEAL OUTLETS A LA ZINGARA OR SINGARA (Odtelettes de Veau 41a Zingara ou Singara) 

Prepare the cutlets exactly as for the plain ones (No. 1496); lay them in a sautéing dish with 
some butter, and cook them quickly, adding a garnished bunch of parsley and half a pint of white 
wine; reduce this to a glaze, moisten once more with a pint of stock (No. 194a) and let smother for 
fifteen minutes; turn them over and finish cooking taking from fifteen to twenty minutes longer. 
Out some Westphalia ham in slices, pare them like half hearts, and just when ready to serve fry 
them in butter and lay one between each cutlet when dressed; detach the ham glaze in the pan 
with some white wine and add to it the half-glaze of the cutlets, also a pinch of cayenne and 
lemon juice; strain the sauce and pour it over the cutlets and ham. 


(1499), VEAL OUTLETS, HALF-GLAZE (Odtelettes de Veau, Demi-glace). 

After preparing six cutlets as for maitre hotel (No. 1501) without any larding, put them into 
a heavily buttered sautéing pan with a garnished bunch of parsley, a quarter of a pint of Madeira 
wine and half a pint of good veal blond stock (No. 423). Let come to a boil, then place it in a slow 
oven; at the end of fifteen minutes turn them over so that they do not cook too rapidly, and after 
another fifteen minutes they should be sufficiently glazed. Dress them on a dish; strain and 
skim the fat from the stock adding to it a spoonful of half-glaze (No. 400); 
pour this over the cutlets and garnish them with paper frills (No. 10); then 


serve. 


(1500), VEAL OUTLETS WITH OHICORY--LARDED (Octelettes de Veau 
‘Piquées & la Chicorée), 

Pare six small veal cutlets, keeping the bone end rather short and the meat 
not too thick; lard them in the center all on the same side. Cover the bottom 
of asautoir with fragments of fat pork and cut up onions and carrots, on this 
range the cutlets, season and moisten to their heighth with stock (No.194a); stand 
thesautoir ona hot. fire, reduce the liquid to half, then cover the cutlets with 
buttered paper; cook while covered on a slow fire or in a very slack oven in- 
creasing the moistening from time to time, lastly, glaze the cutlets at the oven Hy 
door having them uncovered and basting with their own stock. Dress them, in- Fic, 824. 
a straight row on a long dish, the handle bone placed underneath; surround 
both sides with a garnishing of chiccory cream (No. 2729); detach the glaze from the sautoir 
with a little broth and baste the meats with this after it has been skimmed and strained. 





512 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1501), VEAL CUTLETS, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Gételettes de Veau Maitre d’Hotel), 


Cut six eutlets from a rack rather thick and straight, each one having one rib bone; cut the 


chain bone so as to detach the meat; suppress all the skin covering the fat and shorten — : 


the bone on the spine end, beat down the cutlets, not too thin, with a 
damp cleaver on a slightly wet table; scrape the rib bone toward the top 
where the frill is placed; round and pare the meat of the cutlet; season with 
salt, coat over with oil or melted butter; range them ona broiler, and_ broil 


at the end of eight or nine minutes. Lay them on a dish, glaze over with a 
brush, trim the handles with a paper frill (No. 10) and dress them crown-shaped 


each one. For plain serve the above with a clear gravy (No. 404). 


(1502), VEAL CUTLETS, MILANESE (Cotelettes de Veau Milanaise), 


Have six pared veal cutlets; dip them in clarified butter, then in bread- 
crumbs and immerse them in strained and beaten eggs; then again in bread- 





Fia. 325. 


second breading carefully with the blade of a knife so as to have it level and 
even. Twenty minutes before serving put into a sautéing-pan sufficiently large to contain the 
cutlets without squeezing them, enough clarified butter to allow them to swim; fry them toa 
fine golden color, being careful to turn them over once only, then drain, ornament with a paper 
frill (No.10) and dress; pour around a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce ( Neo. 
413), and surround with tomato or macaroni Milanaise timbales (No. 2988). 


(1503), VEAL CUTLETS STUDDED WITH TRUFFLES (Cotelettes de Veau 
Cloutée aux Truffes), 

Pare six covered veal cutlets keeping the rib bones rather short, and the 
meats seven-eighths of an inch thick; stud them rosette-shaped all on the same 
side with pieces of truffles square on one end, and pointed on the other. 
Cover the bottom of a sautoir with scraps of fat pork, minced carrots 
and onions; on this range the cutlets, season, and moisten to their heighth with 
beef stock (No. 194a); set the saucepan on a brisk fire, reduce the liquid to 
half, cover the chops with buttered paper, and let cook with the lid on over a 
slow fire, or else in the oven, increasing the moistening at frequent intervals. 
At the very last moment allow them to glaze while uncovered, basting with 
their own stock; lift them out, pare them slightly, garnish the handles with 
paper frills (No. 10), and dress over a Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with essence of truffles 
(No. 395). 





(1504), VEAL OUILETS WITH FINE HERBS (Cotelettes de Veau aux Fines Herbes), 


Cut, pare, beat, and season six or eight veal cutlets; put them into a sautoir containing 
butter, fry them on both sides over a brisk fire, and when well browned, drain off the fat into 
anéther small saucepan, and lay it on one side. Moisten the meat with a little stock (No. 194a), 


let the liquid fall siowly toa glaze in such a way as to finish the cooking, and lastly add a few ~ 


spoonfuls of white wine. In the fat put aside,-fry colorless two or three spoonfuls of chopped 
shallots*and onicns, with five or six spoonfuls of chopped up-raw mushrooms, and continue frying 
until’these have lost all their humidity, then thicken with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Let this 
cook -for’a few minutes, and pour it over the cutlets in the sautoir; besprinkle with a few spoon- 
fuls of.chopped truffles and cooked ham, and let simmer together for seven or eight minutes. 
Dress ‘the cutlets garnished with frills (No. 10) on a long dish; add to the sauce a pinch of 
chopped ‘and blanched parsley leaves, pour it over the meat. 


(1505), STUFFED EARS, TOMATO SAUCE (Oreilles Farcies & la Sauce Tomate), 


Cook three or four small and very clean calves’ ears in stock (No. 182); drain and 
‘cave them till nearly cold, and when properly wiped, shorten and divide each ear into two parts; 
re nicely, season and stuff these halves by covering them over witha thick baking forcemeat (No. 
‘xed with a third of its quantity of veal quenelle forcemeat (No..92), and a few spoonfuls. 





them on a moderate fire for sixteen to eighteen minutes, turning them over 


on the serving dish with a layer of maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581) between 4 


crumbs mixed with half the quantity of grated parmesan, and smooth this 


ee Se ee ee i ee a aC. a ee ae 


or 


=” 
i 


a 
aa 





VEAL. _ 513 


of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); smooth them down nicely and roll the half ears into white bread- 
crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs, bread-crumb once more, and plunge into very hot frying fat to 
brown while heating; drain, salt, and dress them on a folded napkin with fried parsley. A. 
tomato sauce (No. 549), should be served separately. 


(1506), CALVES FEET, AMERICAN STYLE (Pieds de Veau & l’Américaine), 


Dry and singe six calves’ feet; split them in two to suppress the middle bone, return them to 
their original shape, and tie them together, then parboil for ten minutes; remove, drain, and put 
them back into a saucepan with water, salt, carrots, and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with 
thyme and bay leaf, whole peppers, and cloves; let this cook on a moderate fire for one hour and a 
half. Fry in some lard, a few celery roots, onions, and ham cut in dice; moisten with 
the above stock and white wine, add to it the feet, and when well cooked, which will take 
about three hours, drain and bone them; season over with salt, mignonette, and nutmeg, and. 
place them under a weight; when cold, pare, besprinkle with finely chopped parsley and shallots,. 
then dip them in eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry over a slow fire for fifteen minutes, 
basting them with melted butter. Dress and serve with a separate sauce-boat of espagnole sauce- 
(No.414) and velouté sauce (No.415), half of each, seasoned with curry, and thickened with egg-yolks.. 


(1507), GRENADINS OF FILLET OF VEAL, TOMATOED ARGENTINE SAUCE (Grenadins de 
| Filet de Veau Sauce Tomates Argentine), 


If fine grenadins are required, they should be cut either from the minion fillet or from the 
large saddle fillet or from the kernel; in either case beat the meat with a cleaver, having 
the blade dampened, fiatten to three-eighths of an inch in thickness; pare them into half 

hearts or ovals, all of the same size; season and lard with fat pork. Place these grenadins 
in a sautoir lined with seraps of fat pork, roots and sliced onions; moisten to half their height with 
stock (No. 194a), and cook, letting the liquid fall to a glaze several times, and finally finish glazing it 
in the oven, basting with its own stock. Just when ready to serve, lift them out, drain and lay them 
on a long dish, one overlapping the other in a single row, and around pour an Argentine 
tomato sauce (No. 429); sprinkle the meat over with tne stock, strained free of fat and welk. 
reduced. 


(1508), MINCED FILLET OF VEAL, PORTUGUESE (Emincé de Filet de Veau & la Portugaise),: 


Chop up one shallot very finely and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of port wine and a’ 
finely shredded orange peel, a pint of cayenne pepper, lemon juice and half a pint of espagnole: 
sauce (No. 414); boil and reduce the whole to the consistency of sauce. Heat some cooked veal: 
fillets cut up into slices, dress them in the center of a circle of poached eggs laid on oval-- 
shaped crofitons, and place on top of each egg a piece of tongue cut the shape of a crofiton;: 
pour the sauce over all. 


(1509), MINION FILLETS OF VEAL, WITH PUREE OF ARTICHOKES (Filets Mignons de Veau. 
& la Purée d’Artichauts), 


From thé thickest part of an uncooked, pared minion fillet of veal, cut off slices each: 
half an inch, having them slightly biased so as to obtain them wider;’ flatten with the cleaver, 

_ pare into rounds two and a quarter inches in diameter or in ovals, then season. Heat some» 
| clarified butter in a sautoir, range the minions on the bottom and fry them quickly on both 
sides, turning them over as fast as they are glazed; drain off the butter and moisten to half of 
their height with some good veal blond (No. 423); let fall two or three times slowly to a glaze 
always adding more of the same stock. When the minions are well glazed and cooked, lift 

them up one by one with a fork, and dress each ona flat crust of bread browned in the oven: 
range these on along dish in two straight rows, and at both sides lay some artichoke purée (No. 

704) pushed through a pocket; pour over part of the stock from the fillets after it has beem 
reduced with a spoonful of Madeira wine. Serve the remainder in a sauce turren, 


(1510), MINIONS OF FILLET OF VEAL WITH MUSHROOMS (Mignons de Filet de Veau aux 
fe Champignons), 
From a good fillet of a saddle of veal cut eight or ten bias slices half an inch in thickness and’ 


weighing six ounces; beat to flatten and pare slightly oval-shape, lard them on.one side with thin 
lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52). Season these minions and range them one beside the other in a sautoir— 
. 4, Fig. 52). 


514 THE EPICUREAN. 


having the bottom coverered with fragments of fat pork and a few slices of onion; moisten 
to their heighth with veal blond (No. 428) and let this fall slowly to a glaze; moisten again and 
cook them in this manner, allowing the liquid to fall two or three times; now drain out the 
minions, pare them neatly and strain the stock, skim off its fat and reduce it well. Put the minions 
back into the sautoir, pour their stock over and glaze to a fine color in a slack oven keeping them 
well basted. On the center of an entrée dish fasten a very thin wooden bottom covering it with 





cooked paste (No. 131); dry this and glaze it over with a brush. Have some quenelle forcemeat 
prepared with the veal parings, fill a small timbale mold four inches in diameter by two inches in 
heighth; cover this forcemeat with buttered paper and poach in a bain-marie. At the last 
moment invert this forcemeat ‘‘pain” on the center of the foundation, range the minions around 
one overlapping the other; on the top dress some mushroom heads ina pyramid, having them 
cooked very white and coated with velouté (No. 415); add to the stock in the sautoir some half- 
‘glaze (No. 400), pour some of this sauce into the bottom of the dish and serve what remains apart. 


(1511), PAUPIETTES OF FILLET OF VEAL A LA WHITTIER (Paupiettes de Filet de Veau a 
la Whittier.) 


Blanch some small heart sweetbreads; cut them up into inch squares. Pare three fillets of 
veal, cut them into eighth of an inch lengthwise slices, flatten them slightly and pare into oblongs, 
four by two and a quarter; lay them on the table, season and spread over with a forcemeat pre- 
pared as follows; Chop up the parings of the meat with the same weight of fat pork; mix in 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385), bread-crumbs, egg-yolks and chopped up ham, season, roll up each 
paupiette, wrap them in sheets of buttered paper and tie them at both ends the same as a boned 
turkey, braise these for one hour and a half, unwrap, glaze and dress on a well-buttered 
béchamel sauce (No. 409). Fry the sweetbreads on a brisk fire, add to them some raw fine 
herbs, meat glaze (No. 402) and the juice of a lemon, dress them in the middle of the paupiettes. 


(1512), SCHNITZEL, GERMAN STYLE (Schnitzel & l’Allemande), 


Pare neatly a tenderloin or a round bottom of veal and cut in thin slices across the grain of the 
meat, beat these with the blade of acleaver to thin them considerably, then season with salt and 
pepper; dip them first in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter (No. 16) on a 
brisk fire, when cooked and of a fine color, dress them flat in a circle on a buttered espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), into which some lemon juice has been stirred; on each slice of veal place one egg fried in 
butter in a frying pan, and on these eggs range lozenge-shaped and symmetrically some fillets of 
anchovies, and in the center of each lozenge lay a few nonpareil capers; surround the dish with a 
border of gherkins and sliced lemon having the peel notched. 


(1513), SCHNITZEL, VIENNA STYLE (Schnitzel 4 la Viennoise), 


Select some good tenderloins of veal; suppress the nervous parts and then cut them into 
slightly bias slices; beat this with the blade of a cleaver, and chop lightly with the back of the 
blade of a knife; pare and season with salt and pepper, roll them in flour, and dip each piece 
separately in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, sauté and cook them in clarified butter, then 


dress them ina circle ona hot dish. Serve separately a tomato sauce (No. 549) or thickened 
gravy (No. 405) 


+% 


VEAL. 515 


(1514), FILLET OF VEAL SLICED WITH PELERINE POTATOES (Tranches de Filet de Veau 
; aux Pommes Pélerine), 

Slices of veal should bear no resemblance either to cutlets or minions. Slices of veal breaded 
and fried are often called cutlets which is an error, the name of cutlets should only be applied to a 
piece of meat cut from the rack having a rib bone (‘‘c6te,” from which it derives its name) at- 
tached to it; sometimes the word is used for imitation cutlets, but as veal, mutton, or lamb the 
name should not be given to any part excepting to one containing a rib. They must be thin and 
pared oval-shaped; nor are they to be taken from the fillet or kernel, but from the large part of the 
minion fillet. Trim the meat, cutting it transversely into three-eighths of an inch thick slices; beat 
them well with a moistened cleaver to flatten, pare in ovals and season. Pour some clarified butter into 
a large sautoir, and cook the sliced meat in this over a good fire, turning them when done on one 
side; drain on a napkin, and glaze with a brush; dress them one overlapping the other on a long 
dish in one straight row, and surround with Pelerine potatoes. Serve a sauce-boatful of a tomato 
sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) mixed, at the same time. 


Pelerine Potatoes.—Have one-third of pate-a-chou (No. 132), and two-thirds of potato purée 
(No. 725); mix thoroughly together and form into balls three quarters of an inch in diameter; roll 
in flour, dip in eggs, roll once more in cracker-dust, then fry in hot fat to a fine color. 


(1515), OALF'S HEAD A LA RENAISSANCE (Téte de Veau & la Renaissance), 


Prepare and cook the calf’s head exactly as for the plain (No. 1519); when cold cut one pound 


.of it into inch squares and lay them in a saucepan with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira. 


Heat it up slowly adding a quarter of a pound of mushrooms, a quarter of a pound of square pieces 
of sweetbread, two ounces of cut up truffles, and twenty-four olives. Dress the calf’s head in shallow 
china dishes, each one containing sufficient for one person; lay on a slice of brain Villeroi, and 
cover with a layer of puff paste (No. 146) and bake in a good oven. This entrée may be served in 
a large dish, the size being in.proportion to the number of guests. 


(1516), CALF’S HEAD A LA POULETTE (Téte de Veau & la Poulette), 


Prepare and cook the calf’s head as for the plain (No. 1519); when cold select the cheek pieces 
and snout free of all fat, and cut them up into one and three-quarter inch squares; put these in a 
sautoir with some velouté sauce (No. 415), heat it up slowly and thicken just when ready to 
serve with egg-yolks and butter, seasoning withsalt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and fine herbs. 


Serve very hot. 


(1517), CALF’S HEAD IN TORTUE (Téte de Veau en Tortue), 

Prepare and cook the head the same as for No. 1519; reduce some espagnole sauce (No, 414) with 
Madeira and cayenne pepper; add to it veal quenelles (No. 92), sweetbreads sliced a quarter of an 
inch thick cut from round pieces an inch and a quarter in diameter, mushrooms, olives, veal 
palates, balls of gherkins and trussed and glazed crawfish. Drain the head, wipe dry on a napkin, 
dress and surround it with the garnishing well and symmetrically arranged; pour the sauce over, 
and set the glazed crawfish around the whole. 


(1518), CAL'S HEAD EN TORTUE, DRESSED (Tate de Veau Dressée en Tortue). 


Bone half of a very white calf’s head, put it into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then cut it 
up and finish cooking it in a white stock (No. 182) acidulated with lemon juice; it will take three 








hours to boil slowly. Have a silver plated dish with a border of the same; in the center of this fasten 
a fried bread pyramid covered with raw forcemeat and then poached in the heater or slack oven; 


516 THE EPICUREAN. 


prepare a garnishing composed of small quenelles molded with a coffeespoon (No. 155) and poached,, 


large cocks’-combs, olives, fresh mushroom heads, round truffles and green pickles cut intosmall half~ — 


inch diameter balls. Keep in a bain-marie a slightly tomatoed Madeira sauce (No. 492) with a. 
little truffle moistening. Half an hour before serving drain the pieces of head ona cloth, pare them 
rounded, and slit the outside gristle of the ear in order to be able to turn it backward, then lay 
them in a saucepan with half of the sauce, let simmer over a gentle fire and just when prepared to. 
serve set the ear on the top of the pyramid, fastening it down with a small skewer, and surround 
this support with the remainder of the head and garnishings; cover over lightly with the sauce- 
and pour the rest into a sauce-bowl to be served at the same time as the entrée. 


(1519), CAL'S HEAD PLAIN OR VINAIGRETTE (Téte de Veau au Naturel ou @ la Vinaigrette). 


Choose a very white, fat and well cleaned calf’s head, bone it entirely; split it in two to par- 
boil and when done, dry, singe and scrape it; remove the tongue, then lay it in cold water to. 
steep for one hour. Suppress the sanguineous skin found on the brain and soak this for one hour; 
place in a saucepan with a quart of water, salt and vinegar, let boil slowly for fifteen minutes to. 
cook it. Cut each half head into five pieces, namely: the ear cut off largely from the base, the eye, 
the snout and two cheek pieces; put one pound of chopped suet into a saucepan able to hold twelve- 
quarts of water; add to it a quarter of a pound of flour and stir together on the fire for a few 
moments, then lay in quartered carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay 
leaf, a clove of garlic and two cloves, a dessertspoonful of whole peppers, salt and half a gill of 
vinegar, mix well and add five quarts of water; set this on the fire, stir till it boils, then put in the- 
pieces of head and the tongue; let cook for two hours, and when it softens between the two fingers, 
remove the white skin covering both tongue and inside of the snout, drain off the pieces and wipe- 
them dry. Dress the head simply on a dish or folded napkin, lay the slit ears in the center hay-. 
ing turned them backward with the other pieces around the tongue and brains split lengthwise in 
two; garnish around with branches of parsley; and serve at the same time a sauce-boat of vinai- 
grette sauce (No, 634), also a saucerful of onions and parsley, both finely chopped, whole capers. 
and vinegar pickles. 


(1520), KERNEL OF VEAL A LA DUCHESS (Noix de Veau & la Duchesse), 


Select a good kernel from a fat calf, retain the udder and pare the fleshy part of the kernel’ 
which is not covered; trim nicely and remove the skin that covers the meat and stud it over with 
square pieces of truffles one inch long and pointed on one end; salt the meat lightly and coyer the. 
studded part with some slices of fat pork, tying them down. Lay the kernel in a deep sautoir lined 
with fragments of suet or fat pork, and pour over a little melted butter and a little stock 
(No. 194a), let cook in a moderate oven for two-or three hours according to its size, basting it- 
with the drippings in the pan. When done, untie and dress it on an oval dish, surrounding the- 
meat with duchess potatoes (No. 2785), laying them in a long square; glaze over with a brush and 
serve separately a sauce-boat of brown sauce (No. 414), reduced with a part of the stock, Madeira, . 
white wine and chopped up truffles. er 


(1521), KERNEL OF VEAL WITH THIOKENED GRAVY (Noix de Veau au jus lid, 


Take a kernel of veal, keep the udder whole and set it between two white cloths to beat it- 
down with a cleaver; pare a third of the kernel by removing the fat and sinewy skin, then lard the 
meat with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Line a saucepan with slices or fragments of veal, place the 
kernel on top with a few onions and sliced carrots, and lay at theside a bunch of parsley and_ 








—— 4 


Fig. 329. 
chives; moisten with stock (No. 194a), cover with buttered paper and let boil, then put on its lid’ 


and set it in the oven for an hour and a half to two hours basting it often—the time for its cook-. 


ing depends on the quality and the size. When done, drain and strain the stock. Skim off the fat, 


reduce it to a glaze; use some of it to glaze the kernel, and to the remaining part add one pint of. 


8 i 


VEAL. 517 


eespagnole (No. 414). Dress the kernel, pour some of the sauce around and serve the balance in a 
‘Sauce-tureen. Serve separately asorrel garnishing (No. 2818), a Romaine garnishing (No. 2816), a 
-chiccory garnishing (No. 2729) or a spinach garnishing (No. 2820). 


(1522), KERNEL OF VEAL WITH HALF-GLAZE (Noix de Veau & la Demi-glace), 


Select a kernel of veal as white and fat as procurable; raise carefully with the tip of a knife 
‘the swollen skin covering a part of it, then lay it on the table and press the meat down with the 
left hand while slipping the blade of a very sharp knife between it and the skin, pressing the knife 
slightly against this skin; pare the meat all around into an oval shape, and lard the entire surface with 
medium-sized lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Three and a half hours before serving put some minced 
‘carrots, onions and slices of lean ham into a buttered deep sautoir, the kernel of veal on top and a 
pint of stock (No. 194a), let this come to a boil and reduce to a glaze; moisten again to two-thirds of 
its heighth with stock, cover with buttered paper, boil and place it in the oven, basting over 
occasionally; three-quarters of an hour before serving, remove the lid and paper covering the meat 
and glaze the latter. Dress the kernel and serve in a sauce-boat the stock passed through a silk 
sieve, the fat removed and reduced to a half-glaze. 


(1523), SMALL KERNELS OR NUTS WITH MACEDOINE (Noisettes de Veau a la Macédoine), 


Small Kernels.—A small gland enveloped in fat, found in the shoulder of veal near the joint of the 
two large bones, on the left of the plate bone. This kernel is the size of an ordinary walnut, and is 
‘considered a tidbit morsel. Procure sixteen of these kernels, soak them on the corner of the range for 
two hours, without boiling, then parboil, refresh and drain well; lay them under a weight, pare them 
‘oval-shaped, and put them into a sautoir lined with slices of fat pork and moistened with a mire- 
poix stock (No. 419) made with either white wine or Madeira; let cook for three-quarters of an hour; 
a quarter of an hour before serving, drain off, strain and skim the stock; pour it back over the 
kernels and reduce the whole to a half-glaze; dress in a circle, filling the center with a macédoine 
of vegetables (No. 680); pour the half-glaze over the kernels and serve. 


(1524), VEAL KIDNEYS A L'ANDERSON (Rognons de Veau 4 |’Anderson), 


For six persons have three small or two large very fresh kidneys; suppress the fat and fibrous 
parts, then cut them up into small slices. Fry in butter in a sautoir one ounce of chopped onion, add 
the pieces of kidney, and toss them over a quick fire while seasoning; as soon as the meats are 
‘cooked, pour all into a sauce pan; remove them with a skimmer on a dish leaving the iiquid in the 
pan, and into it pour one gill of veal blond (No. 423), and one gill of red wine; stir well with the kid- 
ney juice, and thicken with asmall piece of kneaded butter (No. 579), boil and pass through a tammy; 
add the kidneys, and finish seasoning with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Cut some 
potatoes into three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices, then with a round vegetable cutter an inch 
anda quarter in diameter, remoye some pieces; fry these of a fine golden color in butter, drain 
off the latter and add‘a little meat glaze (No. 402), a little salt, parsley, and lemon juice; dress 
these potatoes in a circle, filling the middle with the kidneys and their gravy. 


(1525). VEAL KIDNEYS A LA ROEDERER (Rognons de Veau & la Roederer), 


Mince three small kidneys after suppressing the fat and fibrous parts; fry them in butter ina 
sautoir on a hot fire, season and as soon as the meats are seized, pour into a sautoir; remove 
the kidneys with a skimmer, and lay them on a dish, leaving their liquid in the pan; into this 
add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), some champagne, cooked and turned mushrooms (No. 
118), meat glaze (No. 402), chopped and blanched parsley, and lemon juice; pour the sauce over 
the kidneys, and garnish around with small Milanaise macaroni croquettes made by cooking one 
pound of macaroni in salted water for fifteen minutes, then drain and cut into quarter inch lengths; 
put them back into the saucepan with grated parmesan and Swiss cheese, half of each, a little salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, béchamel (No. 409), and a large piece of butter; mix well, then let get cold. 
With this preparation make croquettes, either cylinder-shaped or any other form; dip in eggs, 
bread-crumb, and fry to a golden brown. 


(1526), VEAL KIDNEYS WITH MARROW (Rognons de Veau a la Moelle). 


Split a fine veal kidney through its widest part, pare, and suppress the fat and fibers, then 
season; run a skewer through the length, coat over with melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs, and 
broil over a slow fire; dress and coyer with slices of blanched beef marrow, pour a Colbert 


sauce (No. 451) over, and serve very hot. 


518 DEH hPLC Aan: 


(1527), VEAL KIDNEYS WITH WHITE WINE (Rognons de Veau au Vin Blanc), 


For six persons take three small fresh veal kidneys, pare off the fat and fibers and cut them up 
into small slices; fry these with some butter in a sautoir or frying pan and toss them over a very 
brisk fire; season and as soon as the meats are seized, remove them with askimmer ona dish, leaving 
the liquid in the pan; stir into this one gill of stock (No. 194a), as much white wine and four ounces. 
of mushroom heads cut in four, cook while covered for five minutes, thicken the sauce with a 
little butter kneaded in flour, or else use some thick brown sauce (No. 414); let the sauce cook and 
reduce with it the kidney liquor that is in the pan, and when reduced and consistent, put back the 
kidneys with some chopped parsley, heat without boiling and serve. These kidneys may be gar- 
nished with triangular croditons of bread-crumbs fried in butter. 


(1528), LEG OR HAUNOH OF VEAL, A LA MIRIBEL (Ouissot de Veau &la Miribel). 


Bone as far as the joint, a medium sized haunch of veal; sew it up oval-shaped, and lay it in 
a braziere lined with fat pork and vegetables; moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a), let fall to. 
a glaze and moisten again to half its heighth with broth or water, season, cover with a buttered 
paper and let the liquid come to a boil, then reduce it to half, and set it in the oven to cook slowly 
while basting and turning it over every half hour; it will take three hours to cook properly. Dress, 
glaze it nicely and pour into the dish half of the reduced gravy serving the remainder in a sauce- 
tureen, having it added to the same quantity of tomato sauce (No. 549) and then reduced. Send 
to the table at the same time a dish of vegetables composed of fried cauliflower, fried egg-plant, 
fried potatoes and rice croquettes. 


(1529), CALF’S LIGHT A LA MARINIERE (Mon de Veau & la Mariniare). 


Fry one pound of small squares of bacon in butter, add a calf’s light cut into two inch 
pieces and marinated for eight hours previously in salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, white wine, — 
sweet oil, minced onions, slices of lemon, garlic and parsley leaves. After the light is well fried, 
dredge over with some flour, toss well, then moisten with white wine and stock (No. 194a), half an hour 
before serving, add small onions fried in clarified butter; and a little sugar, and ten minutes before. 
sending to the table, put in some mushrooms; finish cooking the whole, dress and garnish with 
croatons of bread fried in butter, laid all around the stew. 


(1530), GALF’S LIVER A LA OLERMONT (Foie de Vann 4 la Clermont), 


Cut up finely one pound of white onions and fry in butter to have them a nice golden color. 
Drain this off, and moisten the onions with sufficient stock (No. 194a) to allow them to swim; set it on 
a slow fire to cook and fall to a glaze, moisten with one and a half pints of espagnole (No. 414), re- 
duce to half. Cut slices from a calf’s liver three-eighths of an inch in thickness; pare each one the 
shape of a large chicken fillet, and lay them in a sautéing pan with clarified butter, season with salt. 
and pepper, and fry on both sides till they are firm to the touch, then drain off the butter and add the 
above Clermont, finishing with chopped parsley. Remove at the first boil, dress the liver and pour 
the Clermont over. 


(1531), CALE’S LIVER AND BACON (Foie de Veau au Petit Salé), 


Cut quarter of an inch thick slices of liver, season with pepper and a little salt, dredge over 
with flour, and fry with some butter in a pan. When the liver is cooked, dress, pour over the 
butter and garnish with very thin slices of broiled bacon. ‘te 


(1532), CALF’S LIVER. ITALIAN STYLE (Foie de Veau 3 1l’Italienne), 


From a fine calf’s liver cut six transversal slices, each three-eighths of an inch thick; season 
with salt and pepper. Melt some clarified butter in a sautoir, and when hot range in the slices of 
liver to cook rather slowly for five minutes on one side, then turn them over to cook as. 
long on the other—ten minutes in all—lay them on a plate, leaving the butter in the sautoir, and 
glaze them over. Add to the butter in the .sautoir one tablespoonful of chopped shallot 
and two of onions; fry very slowly, then put in double the same quantity of chopped up. 
mushrooms and let cook until they have exhausted all their moisture; dilute with a little velouté 
and reduce for a few moments, slowly adding one gill of white wine and three teaspoonfuls of 
essence of truffles (No. 395); take from the fire, and replace the liver leaving it to heat with- 
out boiling. Dress the slices in a circle on a dish, and finish the sauce with a pinch of chopped. 
parsley, and pour the whole over the liver. 


VEAL. 519 


(1533), CALP'S LIVER WITH FINE HERBS—FRIED (oie de Veau Sauté aux Fines Herbes), 


Cut from a fine calf's liver three-eighths of an inch thick slices; season them with salt and 
pepper, and roll in flour, then fry in butter, keeping them rare; it will take about four minutes 
for each side. Add to the butter some shallots, mushrooms, chives, parsley, and chervil all finely 
chopped; dress the liver, pour over the chopped preparation and finish with the juice of alemon. 


(1534) LOIN OF VEAL A L/AMBASSADE (Longe de Veau & l'Ambassade), 


Have a loin of veal leaving on the two ribs; bone it entirely, prick the flap and beat it. Remove 
the kidneys and all their surrounding fat, and lay the kidneys inside the loin, then season with salt 
and pepper, and fold over the flap so that it incloses both kidney and minion fillet; roll and tie it with 
twelve rows of string, making a knot at each row while keeping the meat an equal oblong shape. 
Cover the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, sliced carrots and onions, and a garnished 
bunch of parsley; lay the meat on top and moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a); let fall to a 
glaze, moisten again with a quart of the stock, and cover over with a sheet of buttered paper; set 
the pan inaslow oven and keep basting and moistening several times until thoroughly cooked, 
which will take about two hours. Untie the meat, dip it in eggs and bread-crumbs, dredge over 
with grated parmesan, besprinkle with fresh butter, and brown it in a quick oven; garnish 
around with fried halved tomatoes and stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), reduce the stock to half, and 
serve at the same time as the meat. 


(1535), LOIN OF VEAL A LA PRINTANIERE (Longe de Veau & la Printanidre), 


Remove the fat from the kidney side of a loin of veal; bone it entirely, flatten the flap after 
pricking it with the tip of a knife; season lightly with salt and pepper, and then roll the flap over, 
bringing it on the kidney side; tieit into an oblong-shape. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, 
a few sliced onions and carrots, two split calves’ feet, a knuckle of veal, anda little ham; lay the 
loin of veal on top, and moisten the whole with a pint of stock (No. 194a). Set the saucepan ona 
brisk fire, then let the liquid fall to a glaze and get a fine golden color, then moisten again with a 
pint of stock; cover the meat with a sheet of buttered paper, place the lid on the saucepan and let 
cook slowly for two hours, basting and remoistening frequently. Remove the paper and glaze the 
meat; skim the fat from the stock, pass it through a fine strainer, and reduce it with an equal amount 
of brown espagnole sauce (No. 414). Dress the loin on an oval dish; garnish around with a 
printaniére of carrots and turnips eut round, cooked and glazed separately, some braised lettuce, 
cauliflowers, glazed onions, and string beans. 


(1536). LOIN OF VEAL A LA SAINTONGE (Longe de Veau & la Saintonge). 


Procure a good loin of veal; remove the fat, also the kidneys, taking a part of their fat away; 
break the spine bone at the joints, and put the kidneys back near the ribs; cover over with the flap; 
pare the meat into an oblong-shape nearly the same dimensions throughout, tie and roast it 
in the oven, not having it too hot after placing some good fat on top; leave it in for two hours, 
then salt, glaze and brown to a fine color. Dress the meat garnishing around with green peas 
Parisian style (No. 2745), and the ends with cork-shaped turnips, blanched and cooked in beef 
broth (No. 194a) with a little sugar and butter, sufficiently moistened that when they are cooked 
they have fallen to a glaze. Serve a separate sauce-boat of a buttered velouté sauce ( No. 415), 
seasoned with nutmeg. 


(1537), LOIN OF VEAL WITH GRAVY (Longe de Veau au Jus). 


The veal should be white and fat. Remove all fat and kidneys from a loin, detach the minion 
fillets entirelv; separate half the meat from the bones beginning at the spinal bone, then give one 
cut of the saw on each bone joint remaining against the sirloin; bone the flat bone and the ends of 
a few of the ribs which must be cut off to give it a good appearance; prick the flap or flank with 
the tip of a knife to extract the air which swells it up, and relay the minion fillets on the opposite 
side they were originally taken from, also a slice of meat removed from the flat bone so that the 
loin be of an equal size throughout; then roll the flap over and tie the meat with twelve rounds of 
string; wrap it in sheets of buttered paper and tie this up with ten rounds of string; lay the loin 
on a baking pan on top of a grate, set one inch above the bottom; sprinkle with good fat and leave 
it to cook in the oven for two to two and a half hours. Fifteen minutes before serving the loin, 
untie and lay it on another baking pan to leave in the oven to become a fine golden color; dress, 
glaze with a light glaze and serve with clear gravy (No. 404) thickened with half-glaze sauce 


(No. 418). . 


520 THE! HPi@GuUn EN. 


(1538). NECK OF VEAL AU BLANC ‘Cou de Veau au Blanc), 

Have three pounds of the neck of veal, without sinews, cut in pieces three inches long by 
one and a quarter wide, parboil, drain, then throw them into cold water; when cool, drain again 
and pare them into equal sized pieces. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan with a 
quarter of a pound of unsmoked bacon; let this fry lightly, then add the veal and fry together to 
a fine color; besprinkle with four spoonfuls of flour, and brown it slightly with the meat, then 
moisten with stock (No. 194a), season with salt, whole peppers, a garnished bunch of parsley with 
thyme and bay leaf and two cloves; cook for two hours before adding sixty small onions, and 
continue the cooking until both the onions and meat are done; now transfer the onions and 
meat into another saucepan with about thirty medium-sized cooked mushrooms. Skim the fat 
from the sauce; reduce and season it properly, thicken it with three egg-yolks diluted in a little 
cream, and finish with fresh butter and lemon juice; strain through a tammy, pour it over the 
meat, kept warm in a bain-marie until needed. Dress the meat, with the onions and mushrooms 
around and pour the sauce over the whole. 


(1539), VEAL PALATES A LA SEVIGNE (Palais de Veau & la Sévigné). 

Soak well six veal palates for six hours, then parboil them in boiling water, afterward 
throwing them into cold water. Scrape the palates with the dull edge of a knife, carefully remoy- 
‘ing all the white skin from the top as well as the black one found underneath, and wash again in 
‘several waters. Braise them ina mirepoix stock (No. 419) for two hours; set them under a weight, 
‘pare them oval-shaped and cover with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) dredging the surface with 
chopped truffles. Place the palates in a buttered sautoir and heat them on a moderate fire; dress 
in a circle around an empty croustade and fill the croustade with a preparation of supréme sauce, 
-escalops of foies-gras, truffles and mushrooms. Serve more of the supréme sauce (No. 547) sep- 
-arately. 


(1540), VEAL PALATES, EPICUREAN STYLE (Palais de Veau & VEpicurienne), 

Fry one coffeespoonful of finely chopped blanched shallots in very hot butter; add to it a few 
“mushroom heads and braised lamb’s noisettes free from fat; fry together for a minute, seasoning 
‘with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168). Moisten with cream and a little béchamel (No. 409) 
‘then lay in the veal palates prepared as for a la Sévigné (No. 1539) and cut round-shape an inch 
cand a quarter in diameter and let simmer for five minutes; finish with a little butter and serve 
wery hot. 


(1541), QUARTER OF VEAL, SCOTCH STYLE (Quartier de Veau V'Ecossaise), 

Choose a haunch of veal from a very white calf; pare and saw off a piece of the shine bone 
‘and trim like a leg of mutton, then wrap the meat up in several sheets of paper; lay it in an 
English cradle spit (Fig. 116), and let cook before a moderate fire from one hour and a half to two 
hours; unwrap and finish cooking until a fine color; salt it over, remove it from the spit and pare 
the end bone. Dress the meat on a large oval dish, decorate it with a paper frill cut out and curled, 
pour over some clear gravy (No. 404), and garnish around with boiled carrots, tans) and string 
beans; serve gravy in a sauce-boat separately. 


(1542), RAOK OF VEAL A L'ALBANI (Carré de Veaua 1’Albani), 

Take the covered ribs of a rack of veal, cut the spine out entirely, bone the ribs to within two - 
and a half inches of the spine, and saw them off. Pare the top of the rack, lard it with salt 
fat pork lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), then roll the flap over, tie and wrap it in buttered paper; put 
it in the oven to roast; a little before serving time unwrap the rack, glaze, brown, and dress it, 


garnishing around with Dauphine potatoes (No. 2783). Serve a cream béchamel sauce separately 
(No. 411). 


(1543), ROUND BOTTOM FRICANDEAU OF VEAL GLAZED WITH GRAVY (Sous-noix Fricandeau 
Glacée au Jus), 

A fricandeau is to be prepared either with the kernel, or round bottom; under all cireum- 
stances the meat must.not be cut too thick, then beat it with a damp cleaver in order to 
flatten it even more while breaking the fibers. Lard the meat with larding pork (No. 2, Fig. 
52) on its smoothest side; cover the bottom of a deep sautoir with fragments of the pork, sliced 
vegetables and onions, and aromatic herbs; lay the meat on top of this stock, baste it over with 
melted butter or good dripping, salt, and let cook on a moderate fire while watching carefully, 
moisten it by degrees with stock (No. 194a), allowing it to fall slowly to a glaze but without letting 


VEAL, | 521 


it brown; then moisten to the height of the larded side, and at the first boil cover the sautoir 
and push it into a slow oven to finish cooking the meat, while basting it frequently, which will 
take an hour anda half to two hours, drain off the gravy and lay the meat on a hot et. strain 
the gravy, free from all its fat, reduce properly and pour it over the meat. ) 


(1544), ROUND BOTTOM OF VEAL, MINCED, SICILIAN (Sous-noix de Veau Emincé & la 
Sicilienne), 


Minces are made with cold meats cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick; pare them either 
round-or oval, suppressing the fat and trimming them neatly. Dress either in a circle or in a 
straight line, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404) and cover over with another smaller dish, then 
heat the whole in a slack oven. The meat must be thoroughly warmed without allowing the el 
to boil; drain this off and serve with a Sicilian sauce (No. 542), : 


41545). SADDLE OF VEAL AND CHOPPED LETTUCE—LARDED (Relle de Veau Piquée aux 
Laitues Hachées), 


To prepare this dish choose a fine saddle not too fat; pare by removing the skin from 
the large fillet or loin; shorten the flap and suppress the minion fillets. Lard the large fillet or 
loin with larding pork (No. 2, Fig. 52) and lay it ina deep baking pan, the bottom covered with 


iil = 


i = 


ie 


Fia. 330. 





pork and veal fat; besprinkle the saddle plentifully with butter, cover it with a buttered paper 
and place it in a moderate oven to cook for an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, basting 
it frequently with the fat from the pan; should this fat threaten to burn, add to ita iow 
spoonfuls of good veal blond (No. 423). When the meat is of a fine color and well seized, 
drain, pare the edges and dress it on a long dish; dissolve the glaze in the pan with a little water 
or stock, let it boil for two minutes, then strain; free it from fat and reduce once more to a glaze. 
Surround the saddle with a garnishing composed of croustades garnished with chopped lettuce and 
cream (No. 2751), pour over it a part of the reduced sauce, serving the remainder separately. 


(1546), SHOULDER OF VEAL A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE (Epaule de Veau & la Bourguignotte). 


Bone the shoulder by splitting it on the side of the plate as far down as the handle without 
injuring the skin; when the bones are all removed, cut away all the sinews and fat; equalize the 
thickness of the meat; season it with salt and spices, and spread over it a layer of farce prepared 
with one pound of chopped veal, and one pound of fat pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, 
and bits of garlic. Roll it to an even thickness, tie it with ten rows of string making a separate 
knot at each turn, then wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper, tie this well and roast the 
meat either in the oven or on a cradle spit. Unwrap it twenty minutes before serving to let attain 
a fine color; dress and garnish around with stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), serving with a sauce-boat 
of brown sauce (No. 414), and tarragon into which squeeze the juice of four lemons. 


(1547), SLICE OF ROUND OF VEAL WITH GRAVY (Rouelle de Veau au Jus), 


The round is a piece of veal cut across through the thickness of the thigh, having it about 
two to three inches thick; lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Put a quarter of a pound of 
butter in a low saucepan, then the slice of veal, and fry it till it attains a fine golden color, then 
moisten with a gill of stock (No. 194a) and the same quantity of white wine; add a bunch of 
parsley garnished with bay leaf, half a pound of minced carrots, an onion with two cloves, whole 
peppers, and salt, set it in the oven to bake slowly for an hour and a quarter, basting it over 
frequently, then glaze the meat and strain the juice; free it from fat, reduce it to a proper degree 
and pour it around the dressed slice, serving it very: hot. 


522 THE EPIOCUREAN. 


(1548), SPINAL MARROW OF VEAL A LA BARNAVE Cxeronretee de Veau & la Barnave), 


The spinal marrow is the marrow taken from the vertebral column of the calf and with which 
very delicious dishes are prepared. Suppress the sinewy skin surrounding them and soak them for 
three hours in.cold water, changing it every hour, cut them up into two inch lengths and lay them 
in a saucepan with some water, adding vinegar, salt, thyme, pepper corns and bay leaf. Put this 
on the fire and let boil for three minutes. When cold, drain and marinate the marrow in oil, 
lemon juice, salt and pepper, dip each separate piece into a fine light frying batter (No. 137), 
plunge them into very hot fat, drain, salt and dress on folded napkins garnishing the top with a 
bunch of fried parsley. Serve a Barnave sauce (No. 431) separately. Spinal marrow prepared as 
above may also be served with black butter (No. 565) or hazelnut butter (No. 567). 


(1549), SPINAL MARROW OF VEAL A LA VILLEROI (Amourettes de Veau & la Villeroi), 


Lay some very fresh spinal marrow for one hour in cold water; scrape off or remove the cover- 
ing and the sanguineous parts over-spreading the marrow, then put them back into cold water for 
another hour. Drain and lay them in a saucepan, cover them with water, season with salt, whole 
peppers, vinegar, sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Boil slowly for tifteen minutes, then drain 
and cut them in two inch length slices; season them with salt and mignonette. Cover each piece 
with a little Villeroi sauce (No. 560), lay them on a plate, and when very cold detach each one with 
a knife; roll them in eggs and bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with a knife, then plunge them 
into very hot fat, a few at the time, until they assume a nice golden color. Drain and arrange 
them on a folded napkin, garnishing the tops with fried parsley. 


(1550). THE WAY TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS (Maniére de Préparer Les Ris de Veau), 


Sweetbread isa glandulous substance found below the calf’s throat and is considered a most. 


delicate morsel. Separate the throat sweetbreads from the hearts; the throat part is the largest 
of the two, the heart is whiter, of a round shape and more delicate and tender than the throat. 
place them in cold water to disgorge for several hours changing it each hour so as to have them 
very white; lay them in a saucepan with an abundant supply of cold water, set it on the fire and 
when the sweetbreads are firm to the touch or poached, or more properly speaking parboiled, then 
refresh and suppress all the wind-pipes, fibers and fatty parts, afterward lay them under a very 
light weight. This blanching is for the purpose of hardening the sweetbreads so as to be able to. 
lard them more easily. Blanched sweetbreads are used for sautéing by cutting them in two 
through their thickness. For brochettes they are cut in slices and for garnishing in the shape of 
salpicon. . 


(1551), SWEETBREADS A LA BINDA (Ris de Veau & la Binda). 


Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as for those larded and glazed with gravy (No. 1575). Have 
some round two inch diameter crofitons of tongue, and some of forcemeat the same size and shape. 
Make a low croustade of foundation paste (No. 135), fasten it to the center of a round dish 
and dress in a circle around it, alternate crofitons of the tongue and forcemeat; fill the croustade 
with Neapolitan paillettes and dress the glazed sweetbreads ontop. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to 
be served separately. 


Paillettes.—A kind of small macaroni three-thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter without 
any hole in the center. | 


(1552). SWEETBREADS A LA BUSSY (Ris de Veau & la Bussy). 


Prepare and cook the sweetbreads exactly as for Ala Montebello (No. 1560), prepare a salpicon 
with sweetbreads cut in square pieces, also some truffles and mushrooms, all cut in three-sixteenths. 
inch squares, lay these in an allemande sauce (No. 407), and let get cold. Cover one side of each 
sweetbread with this preparation, giving ita dome-shape, and lay over the salpicon a cream force- 
meat (No. 75), dredging chopped truffles over all: besprinkle with butter and set them into a slack 
oven to heat without browning. A brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) is to be served at the same 
time, but separately. 


(1553), SWEETBREADS A LA COLUMBUS (Ris de Veau & la Columbus). 


Stud and braise the sweetbreads the same as for No. 1554, dress them on small crotitons 
of foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) dipped in eggs and fried in butter; in the center lay some cock’s- 
combs and kidneys and cover the whole with a Colbert sauce (No. 451) made with the braise stock 
from the sweetbreads and reduced to the consistency of a half-glaze. 


VEAL, | 523 


(1554), SWEETBREADS A LA CONTI (Ris de Veau a la Conti), 


Soak well and blanch six medium sized sweetbreads; stud them each in seven places with truffles 
and wrap them up in a thin slice of fat pork, tie it on securely, then lay them in a sautoir lined 
with more slices of pork, minced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley. Moisten. 
with one pint of beef-stock (No. 194a), let it fall to a glaze, and then add a quart more stock; con- 
tinue the cooking for half an hour longer. Reduce the stock and glaze the sweetbreads, then dress 
in the center of the dish, and lay around them in clusters or else in the center some cocks’-combs, 
kidneys, and mushrooms. Pour over the garnishing a well buttered velouté sauce (No. 415), and 
serve in a sauce-boat some of the same reduced with the stock passed through a tammy, and finish 
with a piece of butter. Have a trussed and glazed crawfish on top of each sweetbread. Serve 
separately a sauce-boat of velouté sauce reduced with the braise stock strained through a sieve and 
incorporate in a piece of fresh butter just when ready to serve. : 


(1555), SWEETBREADS A L'KCARLATE (Ris de Veau & l’Ecarlate), 


Select eight medium very white heart sweetbreads, after they are soaked and blanched, press them 
slightly in the press (Fig. 71), and Jard afterward with fat salt pork, cook them in a pan with very 
little moistening, basting them frequently with their own juice, so as to glaze them a fine color. 
Boil a quarter of a pound of coarse macaroni in salted water, and when tender, drain and refresh 
it in tepid salted water; spread it out lengthwise on a towel and cut it up into a quarter of an 
inch lengths; as quickly as they are cut set them upright on to a buttered sheet and with a cornet. 
filled with quenelle forcemeat (No.89,) stuff the empty space to half itsheighth, and lay small round 
bits of truffle cut the same size on top, then cover the whole with a buttered paper, heat the bottom 
_ of the sheet lightly, then set it into a slow oven for one minute to poach the foreemeat; detach the 
pieces from the pan taking them up one by one and lay them on the truffle side against the bottom 
and sides of a buttered plain border mold; fill in the empty space of the mold with some of the 
same forcemeat, covering over all witha buttered paper; poach this border for twenty-five to thirty 
minutes in a bain-marie, so that the forcemeat hardens to the touch. When prepared to use, un- 
mold the border on a dish and fill the center with the sweetbreads. Have sixteen round pieces of 
unsmoked beef tongue, and sixteen rounds of truffles, all an inch and a quarter in diameter, by one- 
eighth of an inch in thickness; heat them in alittle meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira. Dress them 
in a ring around the sweetbreads on the crest of the border, alternating the colors; cover the bot- 
tom of the dish with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve some of the same sauce separately, 
reduced with a purée of tomatoes (No. 730), butter, grated parmesan, and minced mushrooms. 


(1556), SWEETBREADS A L'BUGENIE (Ris de Veau & !Engénie), 


Prepare and stud the sweetbreads (No..1550), braise and glaze them the same as for a la conti 
(No. 1554); dress them either in a circle or in a straight row, if the latter, garnish the sides, but if 
the former fill the interior with a risot finished at the last moment with fresh butter the braise 
stock reduced to the consistency of a light glaze. Serve a béchamel cream sauce (No. 411), 
separately. 


(1557), SWEETBREADS A LA LA VALLIERE (Ris de Veau & la La Vallitre) 

Prepare, cook, and glaze the sweetbreads the same as for those larded with gravy (No. 1575); 
dress them in a circle filling in the center with a garnishing of small mushroom heads stirred into 
a buttered allemande sauce (No. 407), adding to it lemon juice and chopped parsley; arrange out- 
side the circle twelve small croustades, six of them filled with green peas, and the six others with 
soubise purée (No. 723). Lay on each croustade a slice of glazed truffle, and a small trussed and 
glazed crawfish between every one, 


(1558), SWEETBREADS A LA MALTESE (Ris de Veau a la Maltaise), 


In order to succeed with this dish it will be found necessary to have two tin rings for each 
sweetbread; one two inches in diameter by three-eighths of an inch high used for pressing the 
sweetbreads, and another two and a half inches in diameter by five-eighths of an inch high. Pre- 
pare and cook the sweetbreads as for 4 la‘ conti (No. 1554); set them under a weight in the smallest 
ring for fifteen minutes. Butter two pieces of paper slightly larger than the largest ring, butter 
the inside of this ring and lay it on top of one of the papers, then cover the paper and ring with a 
layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75), press down in the ring on this an unmolded sweetbread, and 


O24 THE EPICUREAN. 


finish filling the ring with another layer of forcemeat; smooth the surface nicely and on top 
imitate a Maltese cross with four long lozenges of red beef tongue, one and one-eighth inch long; 
cut down the center and turned over so that the opposite sides come together; in the middle of 
these four reversed lozenges place a small round of tongue a quarter of an inch in diameter and 
decorate between with little bits of truffle; lay the second sheet of buttered paper over this decora- 
tion, turn the buttered side down, and proceed the same for all the sweetbreads and rings. Turn 
the rings over and range them on a level buttered baking sheet in such a way that the decoration 
is underneath; place it in a slow oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, being careful that the force- 
meat does not. brown. Unmold and dress; prepare a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with 
béarnaise sauce (No. 483), into which incorporate a little meat glaze (No. 402), pour a part of it 
over the bottom of the dish and serve what remains ina separate sauce-boat. 


(1559), SWEBTBREADS A LA MARSILLY (Ris de Veau a la Marsilly), 


Place in the center of a dish a cut out rice croustade foundation. Choose eight medium-sized 
throat sweetbreads, blanch and cool them in the press (No. 71), lard them with fine larding pork 
(No. 3, Fig. 52), and range in the bottom of a narrow saucepan lined witha braise; season and 
moisten to half their height with beef-stock (No. 194a); let this fall very slowly to a glaze, then 
remoisten to half their height with more of the same broth, reduce again, and pour a gill of Madeira 
or Marsala wine over the sweetbreads; allow the liquid to boil up twice before setting the sauce- 
pan in aslack oven to finish cooking the sweetbreads while basting and having them attain a nice 
color. Fry eight small and pared artichoke bottoms; drain and range them dome-shaped with 
small fresh green peas cooked English style (No. 2742) thickened with a well-buttered béchamel 
(No. 409). Dress the sweetbreads on the rice foundation with the artichoke bottoms around; send 
to the table accompanied by a sauce-boat of velouté (No. 415), reduced with the sweetbread 
‘stock. 


(1560). SWEETBREADS A LA MONTEBELLO (Ris de Veau & la Montebello), 


Blanch until firm to the touch some medium-sized sweetbreads that have been in soak for a 
few hours, then drain, refresh and pare by suppressing all the sinews and fat. Lay them in a 
‘sautoir lined with slices of fat pork, sliced onions and carrots and a bunch of parsley, moisten to 
half their height with beef-stock (No. 194a), let this liquid fall toa glaze and then remoisten; 
‘cover with a buttered paper and finish cooking in a slack oven. After they are done, pare and 
set them in oval tin rings, two and a half by five-eighths of an inch in diameter and half an inch 
high; let them cool off in these under the pressure of a weight. Cut up the parings into small 
three-sixteenths inch dice; also some mushrooms and truffles; fry a chopped shallot in butter, add 
to it the mushrooms, the truffles and the sweetbreads, also a little velouté (No. 415), then season; 
when this preparation is cold, use it to cover one side of the sweetbreads, having it well rounded 
‘on the top, cover over with a layer of cream forcemeat (No.75), and dredge the surface with finely 
chopped red tongue; place the sweetbreads on a buttered baking pan, pour melted butter over and 
the sweetbreads in a slack oven for twenty minutes; serve a Montebello sauce (No. 502) separately. 


(1561), SWEETBREADS A LA MONTPENSIER (Ris de Veau a la Montpensier). 


Have six heart sweetbreads of equal size; soak them in cold water and afterward lay them in a 
saucepan containing cold water and parboil until they harden, pare and let cool in the press (Fig. 
71). Lard three of them with fine salt pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) and the other three with truffles cut 
the same size; braise them as for 4 la Conti (No. 1554), and when cooked and glazed, strain off the 
stock, free it from its fat and reduce it toa half-glaze. Dress the sweetbreads around a rice 
croustade garnished with small quenelles and mushrooms thickened with velouté (No. 415) and be- 
tween each sweetbread lay a whole peeled and glazed truffle; dress on top of the garnishing a 
pyramid of truffles and surround the base with a circle of mushroom heads; glaze the truffles 
and sweetbreads. Serve with a separate tureen of velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with the sweet- 
bread stock, passed through a tammy. 


(1562), SWEETBREADS, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Ris de Veau a la Napolitaine), 
Prepare and cook some throat sweetbreads the same as for 4 la Montebello (No. 1560); lay them 
under a weight in oval rings, and when cold cover one side of each, haying it rounded on top, with 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mingled with alittle half glaze (No. 413); covering this over with a layer 


VEATs. 525 


of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Dip them in beaten eggs and fry in clarified butter. 
Dress the sweetbreads and lay around a garnishing composed of macaroni cut in two-inch lengths, 
a quarter as much unsmoked red beef tongue, shredded finely, and the same volume of cooked 
mushrooms cut into small fillets; add tomato sauce (No. 549), velouté sauce (No. 415) and meat 
glaze (No. 402). 


(1563), SWEETBREADS, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Ris de Veau & la Piémontaise), 


Lay the sweetbreads to cool under a weight or in the press (Fig. 71) after they are blanched; 
then cut them across through their thickness into slices, season and range these in a sautoir with 
melted butter, cook them nicely and moisten with white wine; reduce and add a little velouté sauce 
(No. 415). A few minutes later put in some white Piedmontese truffles, half an ounce for each 
sweetbread. Dress this inside a border of Piedmontese risot (No. 739). 


(1564), SWEETBREADS, PORTUGUESE STYLE (Ris de Veau 4 la Portugaise), 


Blanch and dress the sweetbreads as told in No. 1550; trim them into quarter inch thick slices 
and sauté colorless in butter; when almost done finish cooking in a half-glaze sauce (No. 418), work 
in a little fresh butter and Madeira; just when ready add as much Portuguese sauce (No. 526) and: 
let reduce till this becomes of a sufficient consistency, then add some olives stuffed with quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89) containing anchovy butter (No. 569). Poach in the sauce then dress the olives 
on the bottom of a dish, lay the sweet-breads on top and cover with a part of the sauce, serving the 
remainder apart. 


(1565), SWEETBREADS A LA PRINCESSE (Ris de Veau & la Princesse), 


Prepare and cook the sweetbreads the same as for larded and glazed with gravy (No. 
1575). Lay each kernel of sweetbread on an artichoke bottom cooked in white stock (No. 182), 
and pour over some half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress them in a circle and garnish the inside 
with small braised veal noisettes and cover with a well-buttered velouté sauce (No. 415); reduced. 
with the braise stock. 


(1566), SWEETBREADS A LA 8T. CLOUD (Ris de Veau & la St. Cloud), 


_ Prepare and stud each sweetbread with five studs, four of truffles and the center one of 
tongue; braise and cook them as for a la Conti (No. 1554). Dress in acircle and garnish the center 
with a purée of mushooms (No. 722). Pour a light allemande sauce (No. 407) around, and send to 


the table with a sauce-boat of the same sauce. 


(1567), SWEETBREADS A LA ST, LAURENT (Ris de Veau & la St. Laurent), 


Blanch sufficient sweetbreads, then put them to cool under a weight; cut them up into quarter 
inch thick slices then into one inch squares, also some veal kidneys the same size and shape, and 
slices of mushroom heads. Run small silver skewers (Fig. 176) through a piece of sweetbread, a 
piece of kidney and mushroom; dip them in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil over a 
slow fire. ~Pour over an Italian sauce (No. 484) with a little chopped truffle added. 


(1568), SWEETBREADS ALA THEODORA (Ris de Veau 2 la Théodora), 


The sweetbreads are to be prepared and cooked exactly the same as for 
Montebello (No. 1560); put them under a weight in round rings. Fry a 
shallot in butter, add to it some fresh mushrooms, unsmoked beef tongue, 
truffles, fine herb,s all finely chopped, and alittle meat glaze (No. 402). Butter 
some silver cases, fill them half full with this preparation, lay the sweet- 
breads on top and set them in a slow oven to cook for fifteen to twenty min- 
utes; when ready to serve put on each one a half spherical quenelle decorated 
with truffies, over this a Spanish olive stuffed with quenelle forcemeat ( No. 
89), and on top of all a whole pistachio nut stuck in the forcemeat, 
Serve separately a champagne sauce (No. 445) reduced with the stock the sweetbreads have been 
braised in. 





(1569), SWEETBREADS AU OHANCELIER (Ris de Veau au Chancelier), 
Soak and blanch the needed quantity of sweetbreads, then cut them across in two; fry these 
pieces in butter with a little fine shallot and parsley, adding lemon-juice, salt, pepper and nutmeg; 
when done lay them under a weight or in the press (Fig. 71); pare oval-shaped when cold. Reduce 


526 THE EPICURBAN. 


some chicken purée (No. 718) with-an allemande sauce (No. 407). When it has cooled off cover one 
side of the sweetbreads with it, having the tops well rounded, then smooth the surface, dip in 
eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, level the bread-crumbs with the blade of a knife and fry them all toa 
fine color. Serve a supreme sauce (No. 547) separately into which chopped truffles have been added. 


(1570). SWEETBREADS AU MONARCH (Ris de Veau au Monarque). 


Prepare and cook the sweetbreads precisely the same as for larded and glazed (No. 1575); 
dress in a circle on round crusts of bread two and a half inches in diameter by one quarter of 
an inch in thickness, and fried in butter; lay on top of every sweetbread a crown-shaped quenelle 
two inches in diameter and streaked with truffles, on this set a crawfish; in the center pour a 
garnishing composed of a salpicon of square pieces of mushroom, artichoke bottoms, truffles, 
and foies-gras all cut the same size and mixed with Madeira sauce (No. 492); serve separately 


some of the same sauce. 


(1571). SWEETBREADS, ENGLISH STYLE (Ris de Veau 4 |’Anglaise), 


Blanch six medium size unlarded sweetbreads; lay them in a sautoir garnished with slices of fat 
pork, minced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and whole peppers; moisten to three-quarters of 
their height with beef stock (No. 194a), and after it comes to a boil finish cooking in a moderate 
oven, when done, remove and put them under a press in oval tin rings; when cold unmold 
them and cut them crosswise through the center. Cover one side of each sweetbread with 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385), laying it on a quarter of an inch thick; set the other half 
belonging to it on top and remove all the superfluous preparation oozing from the sides. 
Beat up well one-quarter of a pound of melted butter with six egg-yolks, dip the sweetbreads into 
this, then roll them in freshly grated bread-crumbs; bread-crumb them twice before laying them 
on a baking tin, pour a little butter over and cook them in a moderate oven; serve a brown English 
sauce separately. 

Brown English Sauce.—Reduce espagnole sauce (No. 414) with meat-glaze (No. 402) adding 
just before serving some Worcestershire sauce, butter, lemon juice and fine herbs. 


(1572), SWEETBREAD FRITTERS, CREAM SAUCE (Beignets de Ris de Veau, Sauce Créme). 


Soak and blanch a sufficient quantity of sweetbreads; suppress the windpipes and fat, and cut 
them in two across through their thickness, then lay them in a tureen with finely shredded chives 
and shallots, salt, pepper, allspice, lemon juice and a little oil; keep them in a cool place for one 
hour turning them over occasionally, then drain them on a cloth carefully removing every 
vestige of herbs; dip the pieces into a frying paste (No. 137) not having it too thick, and fry them 
slowly until they are cooked and have acquired a fine color, then drain and dress on folded 
napkins, garnish the top with fried parsley. Serve with a cream sauce (No. 454) in a sauce-boat. 


(1573). SWEETBREADS IN PAPERS (Ris de Veau en Papillotes), 


Split some blanched, cold and pressed sweetbreads in two through their thickness; sauté 
them in butter seasoning with salt and pepper. Chop up one small onion and one shallot, lay 
them in a saucepan with melted fat pork to fry colorless, adding six ounces of chopped fresh 
mushrooms; reduce the moisture of these, season, and add six ounces of cooked ham cut 
in small one-eighth inch dice; heat the whole well, then add chopped parsley. Cut heart- 
shaped pieces from a sheet of paper, nine inches long by five wide; oil and lay them on the table: 
cover one side with thin slices of fat pork or cooked ham, lay a little of the preparation on top. 
then a piece of sweetbread, and finish with another layer of the preparation; fold the paper three» 
quarters around and pour a little Madeira sauce (No. 492) through the opening and finish folding 
so as to enclose all hermetically; range these ‘‘ papillotes” in the serving-dish, place it in the 
oven, basting over carefully with a little sweet oil. They should be browned, but not blackened 
and swollen to double their original size. 


(1574), SWEETBREADS LARDED AND GLAZED WITH GEPES BORDELAISE (Ris de Veau 
Piqués Glacés aux Cépes Bordelaise), 

Lard with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) some equal-sized sweetbreads; blanch and cool 

them off under a weight; range them very close to one another in a sautoir lined with salt pork, 

vegetables and minced onions; moisten to half the heighth with beef stock (No. 194a) and let the 


VEAL. | 527 


liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more and finish cooking in a moderate oven, or else with hot 
fire underneath and on top of the cover; basting the sweetbreads frequently in order to glaze them 
nicely. When done drain, dress on a garnishing of cépes A la Bordelaise. 


; Cepes a la Bordelaise.—Sauté in oil some cépes, when partly done add some finely chopped 
shallots, season with salt and pepper, add chopped parsley and lemon juice. Serve the stock, well 
reduced and thickened with brown sauce (No. 414), in a sauce tureen. 


(1575), SWEETBREADS LARDED AND GLAZED WITH GRAVY (Ris de Veau Piqués et Glacés 
au Jus), 


Prepare the sweetbreads as explained in No.1550; when blanched and stiffened lard them in two 
sections as shown in Fig. 382, with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Line a 
saucepan with slices of fat pork, cut up onions and carrots, a bunch of pars- 
ley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and some veal parings, lay the sweet- 
breads over and moisten with stock (No. 194a); season with salt and whole 
peppers then cover with a buttered paper. Boil up and finish to cook in a 
slack oven for forty-five minutes, basting frequently during the time; glaze 
and let assume a good color. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, skim off 
its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup. Dish up the sweetbreads and pour the 
gravy around. 





(1576). SWEETBREADS, PARISIAN STYLE (Ris de Veau 4 la Parisienne), 


Stud one-half of the sweetbreads with truffles, envelope them in thin bardes of fat pork, 
and lard the other half; braise them as for larded and glazed chicken with gravy (No. 1575). Dee- 
orate a flat border mold with fanciful cuts of truffles, fill it up with forcemeat (No.80) and poach it 
in a bain-marie. When ready to serve, invert the mold on a dish, unmold and lay the sweetbreads 
on the border, filling in the empty space with minced truffles and mushrooms mixed with a brown 
sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and lay around the outside of the border some whole mush- 


. rooms and truffles glazed with meat glaze (No. 402). Serve a separate sauce-boat of brown sauce 


reduced with the stock and Madeira wine and the truffle and mushroom parings, strained through 
a tammy. 


(1577), SWEETBREADS STUDDED, SPANISH STYLE (Ris de Veau Cloutés a l’Espagnole), 


Stud with truffles eight medium sweetbreads previously blanched; then wrap them up 
in small pieces of clean white linen giving them an oval-shape; cook them in some well 
seasoned mirepoix stock (No. 419), drain, unwrap and wring the cloths out in cold water, then 
wrap them up again and let get cold one beside the other under the pressure of a light weight; 
unwrap once more and lay them in a baking tin with some of their own stock partly reduced to a 
half-glaze; warm them at the oven door while basting. Dress these sweetbreads on an oblong- 
shaped cut out rice foundation, decorate around the outside with clusters of small cooked mush- 
room heads and poached quenelles; cover over with some béchamel sauce (No. 409) reduced 
with cream and seasoned with prepared red pepper (No. 168). Serve separately an espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), reduced with the remainder of the stock, adding to it some stuffed Spanish olives 
(No. 695). 


(1578), SWEETBREADS, WITH QUENELLES, (Ris de Veau aux Quenelles), 

The sweetbreads are to be prepared and cooked as for a la Conti (No. 1554); when done range 
them in a circle and garnish the middle with small bead-shaped quarter inch quenelles; cover 
with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) so as to glaze the sweetbreads, and serve a Madeira sauce (No. 
492) in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1579), SWEETBREADS, ZURIOH (Ris de Veau Zurich), 


Lard the edges of six heart sweetbreads with fillets of tongue, and stud the centers with 
truffles; braise and glaze them the same as for a la Conti (No. 1554), dress them on small crous- 
tades filled with a garnishing composed of veal palate, truffles, mushrooms, all cut in quarter inch 
squares, and a brown sauce (No. 414), reduced with the stock used for braising the sweetbreads 
{part of this sauce should be reserved to serve in a separate sauce-boat). Range around these some 
round-shaped quenelles made with chicken quenelle forcemeat mixed with soubise (No. 89) and 
decorated with truffles. 


528 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1580), CALVES’ TAILS WITH CABBAGE (Queues de Veau aux Choux), 


Take twelve calves’ tails, cut the thick ends into four pieces two inches long and parboil them 
with a pound of sliced bacon; cut a large cabbage in four, blanch it for fifteen minutes, drain, 
refresh, suppress the core and press out all the water; tie the pieces together. Put the par- 
boiled tails into a stock pot, the bacon, the cabbage and a garnished bunch of parsley; moisten 
with one pint of stock (No. 194a) season with nutmeg, pepper, and a little salt, and let: 
boil slowly until the tails are done and the stock reduced, then take all from the pot, drain, 
and dress the tails intercalated with the cabbage and the bacon laid on top; cover with an espagnole: 
sauce (No. 414) reduced with some clear gravy (No. 404). 


(1581), TENDON OR GRISTLE OF VEAL A LA BAYEUX (Tendon de Veau & la Bayeux), 


Cut some tendons three inches long by twoand a quarter wide; place them in a sautoir with butter- 
and square pieces of unsmoked bacon, small onions, dice-shaped pieces of ham, small pear-shaped. 
carrots, and a bunch of parsley; fry slowly, moisten with stock (No. 194a), season and let cook 
for two hours and a half, being careful to remove the grease; remoisten frequently till the stock 
is reduced to the third of a glaze. Dress the tendons, place the garnishings around, pour the: 
sauce over the meat and serve. 


(1582), TENDON OR GRISTLE OF VEAL A LA BIARRITZ (Tendon de Veau & la Biarrita) 


Pare and cut the tendon into pieces measuring three inches long fry them in clarified butter,. 
drain off the butter and add to the meat some white wine, a little espagnole sauce (No. 414),, 
and meat glaze (No. 402). Heat some clarified butter and add to it well cleansed Piedmontese rice;; 
when very hot moisten with broth (No. 194a), boil and let cook in a moderate oven for twenty 
minutes, then add to it the meats and leave it in the oven for fifteen minutes longer. Dress. 
the tendons and rice and surround with veal kidneys, fried in butter, and fine herbs. 


(1583), OALVES’ TONGUES A LA FLAMANDE (Langues de Veau a la Flamande), 


To Salt the Calves’ Tongues.—Take out the pipes from twelve tongues; prick them all over with: 
a coarse trussing needle and put them into a stone vessel containing sixteen quarts. Dissolve a 
sufficiency of salt in ten quarts of water so that when an egg is dropped in, it will float on the top; add 
four ounces of saltpetre, and when all is thoroughly dissolved, pour it over the tongues. Set them 
in a cool place, and leave them there for twelve days, turning them over every third one. Drain 
and cook them plainly in water with some chopped beef suet, and when done, peel off the skins. 
and keep the tongue warm in a light half-glaze sauce (No. 418); dress and surround them with a. 
Flemish garnishing (No. 668), pouring over a clear gravy (No. 404). 


(1584), CALVES’ TONGUES A LA PERIGUEUX (Langues de Veau a la Périgueux), 


On the center of a round dish fasten a wooden bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 131) and! 
having a six inch high pyramidal support in the center, also covered with paste; brush.the whole. 





with meat glaze (No. 402). Cook six or seven large calves’ tongues in water, selecting those which 
have been in brine for twelve days. Roll out ona floured table a thin band of half puff paste (No. 
146), three and a half to four inches wide; roll it on a roller to unroll on a baking sheet slightly 


Ant S Cana 529 


wetted with water, then with a cardboard pattern cut from this band large pieces, straight on one- 
side and rounded on the other, one end being pointed while the other is straight, and on the 
rounded side cut it into small sharp points; prick the surfaces, egg over with a brush without 
touching with the hands, and cook them in a slow oven until they become a light golden color; af- 
ter removing let get partially cold under a very light weight. Drain the tongues, peel and keep: 
them for ten minutes under a weight to flatten lightly; pare and cut each one in two or three pieces 
from top to bottom, then reconstruct them as they were before, and cover the cut sides with a. 
layer of soubise (No. 723), reduced and thickened with a little meat glaze (No. 402), and slightly 
cool; keep them their correct shape, afterward glaze them over with a brush; cover the wooden bottom 
and surround the central support on the dish with a thick bed of good risot (No. 739), and stick on top: | 
of this support a small skewer garnished with truffles. Dress the tongues upright leaning them 
against the rice, lay between each one of the bands of paste to separate the tongues, letting them 
project slightly beyond. Cover over with a Madeira sauce (No. 492), reduced with truffle parings, 
and send a separate Périgueux sauce (No. 517), to the table at the same time as the tongues. 





MUTTON (Mouton). 





AMERICAN CUTS. 


1. Head and Neck 5. Legs 

2. Rack 6. Trotters 
3. Shoulder 7. Breast 
4. Loin and Saddle 8. Tail 





Fig. 334. 
(1585), BREAST OF MUTTON PLAIN (Poitrine de Mouton au Naturel), 


Take three fine well covered breasts of mutton; remove with a blow of the knife the bone part 
‘covering the tendons, tie up the breasts and put them into a baking tin, having the bottom cov- 
ered with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions and a bunch of garnished parsley; moisten with suffi- 
cient stock (No. 194a) to allow them to swim, bring to a boil on the top of the fire, skim, then place 
in the oven to cook for two hours and a half, turning the meats over during the time. When the 
bones can be easily detached drain off the breasts and suppress all the rib bones leaving the 
tendons on; lay the meats under a weight or in the press (No. 71) to reduce them to half an inch in 
thickness, and when cold pare off the skin without touching the fat; trim them into half hearts, 
‘dip in melted butter and stick a piece of the bone in the pointed end; broil over a slow fire to a 
fme color, then dress, glaze and pour a clear gravy (No. 404) over; garnish each bone end with 
a frill (No. 10). 


(1586), BREAST OF MUTTON STUFFED—TOMATO ANDALOUSE SAUCE (Poitrine de Mouton 
Farcie Sauce Tomate 4 |’Andalouse), 

Remove the bony part of a breast of mutton over the tendons open on the straight edge in such 
A way as to form a pocket and fill this with some of the following stuffing; sew it up and braise 
_ the meat in a mirepoix stock (No, 419); when cooked dress glaze and cover with part of the stock 
reduced to the consistency of half-glaze; serve a tomato Andalouse sauce (No. 550) separately. 

For the Stuffing.—Chop up finely half a pound of lean, sinewless pork with half a pound of 
bacon, add to it half a pound of soaked and well pressed bread-crumbs. Season with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, chopped onion and a bit of garlic, both of these lightly fried in butter and finish with 
chopped parsley and two whole eggs. 


(1587), BREAST, TENDON AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON, NAVARIN (Poitrine, Tendon et Epaule 
de Mouton Navarin), 


Cut into half inch pieces one pound of breast, one pound of tendon and one pound of shoulder 
of mutton. Lay these meats in a vessel, season them with salt, pepper, two cloves, nutmeg, thyme, 
bay leaf and a bunch of parsley containing a clove of garlic; pour on a quarter of a bottleful of 
Madeira wine and let marinate for six hours, then drain off the meats, wipe dry and fry them 
with chopped up fat pork and half a pound of three-quarter inch dice pieces of blanched lean bacon; 
add to this the Madeira and aromatics with some brown sauce (No.414) and let cook on a moderate fire 


while skimming off the fat thoroughly. In the meantime prepare some turnips cut out with a 
(531) 


532 THE EPICUREAN. 


one-inch vegetable spoon, fry them in lard and when they begin to brown, sprinkle over some pow- 
dered sugar and after they are of a fine color, remove with a skimmer, place in a saucepan and 
finish cooking in a little of the brown sauce taken from the stew, and wetting with some stock (No. 
194a). Dress the stew, range the turnips around and pour over the gravy from both the meat 
and turnips reduced together with half a pint of white wine and strained through a tammy 
(No. 159). 


(1588), HARICOT OF BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS (Haricot de Mouton aux Navets), 


Have three pounds of breast of mutton cut up into two inches pieces; fry them in six ounces of 
butter letting them get a fine color, then drain them through a colander; trim and cut the bones, 
pare square, add one ounce of flour to the butter and when slightly browned, moisten with the 
three pints of broth, (No. 194a) boil, skim off the fat and strain through a tammy. Set all this 
into a clean saucepan and add to it the well-pared pieces of meat, add two carrots, two onions, one 
with three cloves in it, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, thyme and a clove of garlic, 
salt and pepper; let boil until the meat is well cooked and the sauce properly reduced. Pare two 
pounds of turnips the same shape as pigeon’s eggs, fry them in butter and as they first 
begin to brown, sprinkle over with powdered sugar, and when they have attained a very fine 
color, put them into the stew removing the fat pieces an hour before serving allowing them all to 
cook together After the meat is done, which can easily be perceived if the bones detach easily, 
remove the carrots, onions and parsley, then dress the meat and garnish with the turnips; strain 
the sauce and pour it over; in case the sauce be too thin reduce it until it acquires proper con- 
sistency. 


(1589), CARBONADE A LA JUVIGNY (Carbonade & la Juvieny), 


The piece from the end of the last chop to the begining of the leg is called 
carbonade. The bones are first extracted from the loin and it is then pared on all its length 
and width and larded with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), season, roll 
and tie it up into an oblong square (Fig. 335). Line the bottom of a 
saucepan or braziere with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, onions, 
bay leaf and thyme; lay the carbonade over, set a heavy buttered paper on 
top and pour in a quart of stock (No. 194a); let simmer for two hours and 
a half. Fifteen minutes before serving time, glaze the carbonade letting 

Fig. 335, it become a fine color, dress it and garnish around with small pear- 

shaped carrots cooked in broth (No. 194a), small blanched onions cooked 

the same, small turnip balls blanched and browned in the pan with a little sugar and finished 

cooking in broth, and celery knobs the size of a clove of garlic, blanched and cooked likewise 

in broth. All these vegetables should be only sufficiently moistened so that when they are done 

the liquid is reduced to a glaze; strain the meat stock, remove its fat and finish. by reducing it to 
the consistency of a half-glaze and add Juvigny sauce (No. 485). 





(1590), PLAIN MUTTON CUTLETS AND MUTTON CHOPS (Cotelettes de Mouton Nature et 
Cotelettes de Filet Nature). 


For plain cutlets use racks of mutton, having the meat tender and well- 
matured, suppress the skin covering the fat, shorten the rib bones and divide 
into equal-sized cutlets make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from 
about one inch of the end and scraping the bone clean, when nicely pared they 
should each weigh about four ounces. Salt the cutlets, baste with oil and range 
them all on-the same side on the broiler; they take from eight to ten minutes to 
cook. When done, dress them on a dish, pour over a clear gravy (No. 404) and 
trim each chop with a paper frill (No. 10). 

Mutton Chops are cut either from a loin or half saddle of a sheep split 
lengthwise in two. These chops should be cut rather thick, each one about an 
inch and a half and then flattened to an inch. Pare and season with salt, baste 
with oil and broil for about twelve minutes, dress and serve very hot. 





(1591), MUTTON CHOPS SOYER (Cotelettes de Mouton Soyer), 


Soyer chops are cut from the saddle dividing it into one and a half inch thick slices cut the full 
width of the saddle; they should each weigh twelve ounces after being pared and are to be cooked for 


MUTTON. 533 


twelve minutes; when they are done they can be split through the center so that one chop will 
answer for two persons; serve them very hot with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which Worces- 


rea 





Fic. 337. 


tershire sauce has been added, and buttered at the last moment, with the addition of fine raw 
herbs and nonpareil capers. ) 


(1592), MUTTON CHOPS, TAVERN STYLE (Cotelettes de 


Mouton a la Taverne), 


Cut the chops from the saddle, lengthwise having 
them an inch and a half thick; flatten, pare and garnish 
each one with a kidney fastened on with a skewer thrust 
into the fat part of the chop above the minion fillet; 
sprinkle with salt, baste with oil, and broil until of a 
fine color on one side, then turn over to finish cooking on the Fic. 338. 
other. ten to twelve minutes in all; serve very hot surrounding 
them with water-cress. 





(1593). MUTTON CUTLETS A LA BOUCHERE (Cotelettes de Mouton & la Bouchére), 


Have a good fleshy rack of mutton with fine, tender pink meat; suppress the superficial skin 
overing the fat, and cut five cutlets from each rack; remove the spinal bone and round the tops; 
they should be thick and pared very little without handles, as they are not garnished with frills; 
salt over and dip them in melted butter, then roll in fine. bread-crumbs. Eight or ten minutes 
before serving, range them on the broiler all on the same side, and when partially done and a fine 
color, turn them over to finish the cooking; when they are finished, dress in a circle garnishing the 
middle with the following: Cut four ounces of gherkins in small fillets like a small Julienne, (No. 
818); four ounces of mushrooms, and four ounces of tongue, cut exactly the same as the gherkins; 
thicken this garnishing with a brown English sauce (No. 1571), finishing with a dash of cayenne 


pepper. 


(1594), MUTTON CUTLETS ALA MACEDOINE (Odtelettes de Mouton & la Macédoine), 


Cut off fine cutlets from a fine rack; pare them the same as if cooked plain (No. 1590), and ten 
minutes before serving, put them on the fire in a sautoir with clarified butter; when they are done, 
drain off the butter and replace it by a little clear gravy (No. 404), and white wine; reduce, then 
roll the cutlets in this glaze to give them a nice gloss; dress in a circle and garnish the center with 
a macédoine (No. 680). Detach the sauce with a little broth and white wine, and strain it through 
a tammy over the cutlets. 


(1595). MUTTON CUTLETS ALA MARECHALE (Cdtelettes de Mouton & la Maréchale), 


Prepare and trim some mutton cutlets, as for plain cutlets (No. 1590), season and sauté them 
quite rare in clarified butter, let cool off under a weight pressed lightly on them, then pare and 
cover both sides of the cutlets with a thin layer of cooked fine herbs (No. 885); place on top of this 
another thin layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), bread-crumb them English style and 
range them on a baking tin; pour clarified butter over and brown in the oven; remove, drain, 
garnish with paper frills (No. 10). Dress them on a crown-shaped trimmed rice croustade, fill the 
center with some turned truffles rolled in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and butter and serve separ 
ately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of truffles (No. 395). 


534 TUE EPICUREAN. 


(1596), MUTTON OUTLETS A LA NELSON (Gételettes de Mouton & la Nelson), 


Chop up separately and thoroughly some cooked ham and truffles. Pare a few cutlets, seasom 
and dip them in beaten eggs, cover one of their sides with the ham and the other 
with the truffles, dredging bread-crumbs on both sides, dip them again in the eggs, 
roll them in the bread-crumbs, and range them in a sautoir with clarified butter; 
fry over a very brisk fire; when cooked, drain, wipe, garnish the handles with paper 
frills (No. 10), and dress them in a circle. Pour a little Victoria sauce (No. 557). 
into the center of the crown and serve more of it in a sauce-boat. 


(1597) MUTTON CUTLETS A LA SAVARY (Cételettes de Mouton ala Savary). 


Obtain a rack of mutton of tender meat, take off all the skin, shorten the rib: 
bones and cut the rack into even thick cutlets. (The cutlets are to be cut more or 
less thick according to the thickness of the meat.) Suppress the hard skin covering 
the fillets, round the meat neatly cutting the tops into a point, and remove all superfluous fat. 
Make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from about one inch of the end and seraping the: . 
bone clean. Macerate these cutlets in a cooked marinade (No. 114), drain, wipe dry and fry them in 
clarified butter; pour off the fat and moisten with meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira, roll the 
cutlets in this to glaze them, then dress them in a circle; garnish the handles with frills and fill in, 
the center with a purée of Jerusalem artichokes (No. 704). Serve separately a half-glaze sauce. 
(No. 413) with lemon-juice added and surround with one inch potato balls cooked in the oven with 
clarified butter, drained, salted, and dressed. 





Fie. 339. 


(1598). MUTTON CUTLETS BREADED, ENGLISH SAUCE (Cotelettes de Mouton Panées, Sauce. 
Anglaise), 


Season some well pared cutlets, dip them in melted butter, roll in fine white bread-crumbs, and 
lay them on the broiler to cook while turning them over--about eight minutes will suffice—when: 
done, of a fine color on both sides, dress and decorate with paper frills (No. 10); serve at the same- 
time a brown English sauce (No. 1571) either separately or underneath the cutlets. 


(1599). MUTTON OUTLETS BREADED WITH PUREE OF TRUFFLES OR WITH PUREE OF 


CHESTNUTS (Cotelettes de Mouton Panées & la Purée de Truffes ou & la Purée de: 
Marrons), 


Pare several outlets all of the same thickness, salt and dip them in clarified butter, then roll 
them in fine bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire until they are cooked and attain a good color 
then trim the handle with a paper frill (No. 10), and dress in a circle around a croustade filling this. 
with a purée of truffles (No. 731). Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 4138) apart. 


With Chestnuts.—Prepare the cutlets as for the above with the only difference that they 
should not be breaded and the purée of truffles replaced by a purée of chestnuts (No. 712). 


(1600). MUTTON CUTLETS, RUSSIAN STYLE WITH HORSERADISH <Cotelettes de Mouton & la. 
Russe au Raifort), 


Have some well pared cutlets; lard them with cooked ham, then lay them in a sautoir with 
tlarified butter, fry over a brisk firé, moistenin g with a little Madeira and meat glaze (No. 402): Pour 
some well reduced velouté (No.415) into a saucepan, and add to it some freshly grated horseradish, 
thickening with a few egg-yolks, then put in the whites of the eggs beaten stiff; use this. 
preparation to cover over the larded side of the cutlets; smooth them nicely with a knife, and. 
bestrew with bread-crumbs fried in butter; pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven, then. 


serve after having trimmed the handles with paper frills and dressed the cutlets flat on a well 
acidulated Colbert sauce (No. 451), with minced cépes added. 


(1601), MUTTON CUTLETS WITH BRAISED LETTUCE (Oételettes de Mouton aux Laitues. 
Braisées), 

Pare the cutlets as indicated for plain (No. 1590), larding them with medium lardons (No. 2, 
Fig. 52). Butter the bottom of a sautoir, and cover it with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, 
onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and a few cloves; lay in the cutlets: 
and moisten to half their height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), then cover over with buttered 


TO oe sagt ee dal ah ee ‘ - 
of OA MTT PTON: oe ae BaD 


~ paper, let cook to reduce in the oven, being careful to baste frequently, and to add more liquid as. 


quickly as it evaporates, they will take about two hours. Have some lettuce blanched and braised 
(No. 2754); when done and well drained, dress them in the center of a dish placing the cutlets. 
around after glazing them and trimming the handles with paper frills (No. 10). Strain, remove the fat. 
from the stock and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; pass through a tammy 
and pour a part of it over the meat serving the remainder in a sauce-boat with the cutlets. 


(1602), MUTTON CUTLETS WITH CHICCORY, TRUFFLES OR FRIED POTATOES (Oételettes de 


Mouton a la Chicorée, aux Truffes ou aux Pommes Frites), 


With Chiccory.—Dress them in a circle when prepared the same as for the marinade (No. 1604), 
fill the empty space with a chiccory garnishing (No. 2729), serving a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) 
separately. _ 


With Truffles.—Prepare, cook, and dress the cutlets the same as for the above; fill the inside 
of the circle with finely shredded truffles added to a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira wine. 


With Fried Potatoes.—After they are prepared, cooked, dressed, and glazed, fill in the inside: 
of the circle with half inch balls of potatoes sautéd in butter, and seasoned with salt, parsley, and 
lemon juice. 


(1603), MUTTON CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS (OCotelettes de Mouton aux Concombres), 


Prepare and cook the cutlets the same as with braised lettuce (No. 1601); when done dress them 
crown-shaped, and fill the inside of the circle with cucumbers cut the shape of a clove of garlic, 
cooked in stock (No. 194a), drained, and mingled with cream béchamel sauce (No. 411). 


(1604). MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MARINADE (Cotelettes de Mouton &1la Marinade), 


Select two racks of mutton having the meats tender and wel! matured, remove the 
remainder of the breast leaving the cutlet bones only four inches long, also remove the neck as far 
down as the third cutlet; saw off the spinal bone without injuring the fillet as far as the joints of 
the cutlets, then cut from each rack either five, six, or even seven cutlets according to the thickness; 
of the meat, each one when pared ought to weigh four ounces. Pare the meat from the end of the: 
bone, about one inch deep to make a handle, then flatten each cutlet lightly and suppress the fibrous: 
skin on the fat, also the skin adhering to the inside of the bone; salt over and dip the cutlets in 
melted butter, and broil them on a bright fire, only turning them over once to have them retain. 
their blood and be juicy. Glaze, garnish the handles with frills (No. 10), and dress; pour a little: 
clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish, and serve with a separate marinade sauce (No. 496).. 


(1605), DOUBLE BARON OR SADDLE, ROASTED (Double Baron ou Selle Rotis’, 
The double of mutton is the back hip part with the leg on which the saddle with about sevem 


_of the ribs is left adhering (Fig. 340). Select a good sheep not too large, but young and fat, remove: 


the skin and suppress the fat; cut several incisions on the fat to facilitate and equalize the cooking, 


x 


SS 





then lay it ina copper pan and cookin a moderate oven; the meat must be left rare, then salt it over. 
Dress and decorate the leg bone with paper frills (No. 10), pouring a clear gravy (No. 404), on the 
bottom of the dish. The baron and saddle are to be cooked the same way and served the same; they 
differ only in cut. The baron is taken from the loin end as far as the first rib (Fig. 340). The. 
saddle is the whole hind part of the mutton without the legs. 


536 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1606). SHEEP'S EARS A LA WESTPHALIAN (Oreilles de Mouton & la Westphalienne), 


Blanch and braise some sheep’s ears after having thoroughly cleansed them in a mirepoix stock 
(No. 419); when cooked put them in a vessel with the stock strained over, and let get cold. Cut out 
the inside of the ears with a column tube, then reheat them in the braise stock. Dress on a baking 
dish and fill the interiors with veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), to which add chopped truffles and 
‘some velouté sauce (No. 415), thickened with egg-yolks; dredge over some bread-crumbs and grated 
‘parmesan cheese; sprinkle over a little melted butter and place in the oven to colorslightly. Dress 
‘them in a circle and fill the center with thin slices of ham fried in butter over a brisk fire; dilute the 
-glaze in the pan with white wine and brown sauce (No. 414), reduce and pour it over the ham; 
-sprinkle chopped parsley over the whole. 


(1607), EPIGRAMMES OF MUTTON A LA JARDINIERE (Epigrammes de Mouton & la Jardinidre), 


Have eight mutton cutlets prepared as for plain (No. 1590), season, dip in eggs and bread- 
crumbs, equalize the bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter or if preferred omit the breading and 
simply sauté the cutlets plain. Braise some breast of mutton the same as for plain (No. 1585), then 
put them under a weight and when cold pare them into half hearts; dip these in Villeroi sauce (No. 
560), and after this is cold dip them in eggs, then in bread-crumbs, immerse them in plenty of hot 
frying fat; when of a nice color, drain. Decorate the top of a hollow border mold with all kinds 
of cut up vegetables, fill the inside with quenelle foreemeat (No. 92), poach, unmold on hot dishes. 
Range the breasts and cutlets alternately in a circle on top of this and fill the empty center with a 
jardiniere (No. 677); serve an espagnole sauce (No. 414) separately after it has been reduced with 
the braise stock which has been strained and freed from fat, and some mushroom essence (No. 392). 


(1608), MUTTON FILLETS A L'ALEXANDRE (Filets de Mouton & l'Alexandre), 


Pare the mutton fillets, cut them up into thin shees a quarter of an inch thick and cover each 
one with a cooked fine herb preparation (No. 885), seasoning first with salt and pepper, dip in beaten 
eggs, roll in fine bread-crumbs, giving each a horseshoe-shape and fry in clarified butter. Slice six 
mutton kidneys, as many raw mushrooms and half as many truffles, fry the kidneys in butter, add 
to them the mushrooms and truffles, drain off the butter and replace it by a little espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), lemon juice and fresh butter, pour this stew into a dish and dress the cooked fillets over in 
straight rows, one overlapping the other. 


(1609), FILLETS OF MUTTON GRENADINS, POIVRADE SAUCE (Filets de Mouton Grenadins, Sauce 
Poivrade). 


Pare the small minion fillets; beat them into half hearts, season, range them in a tureen and 
cover with a cooked but cold marinade (No. 114), leaving them in for twenty-four hours, drain off 
the fillets, wipe well and lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Set them into a buttered 
sautoir, besprinkling over with more butter and push them into a brisk oven so that the larding 
cooks at the same time as the meat; after removing drain off the fat and moisten with a little 
gravy (No. 404), let this fall to a glaze over a hot fire, then lift out the fillets and dress them in two 
straight rows on a large dish, garnish around with triangular croftitons of bread fried in butter; 
pour into the same sautoir a few spoonfuls of poivrade sauce (No. 523), and at the first boil pour 
the sauce through a fine strainer, pour part of it over the fillets and serve the remainder in a 
sauce-boat. 


(1610). NOISETTES OF MUTTON, GLAZED (Noisettes de Mouton Glacées), 


Noisettes of fillet of mutton are cut from the large fillet or tenderloin of a saddle, or else from 
the minion fillet. Cut them up into slanting four ounce pieces or thereabouts, beat lightly, then 
pare them round-shaped about two inches in diameter: after they are trimmed they should each 
weigh three ounces; season and place them in a deep vessel with a little Madeira wine, thyme, and 
bay leaf, leaving them to marinate for one hour; drain and wipe them thoroughly dry, then range 
them ina sautoir with hot clarified butter, and let fry on both sides, turning them over. Drain off the 
butter and replace it by two spoonfuls of clear gravy (No. 404), and the Madeira from the marinade; 
let the liquid fall to a glaze while turning the noisettes over, then take them out and pare them of 
equal size. Cover one side of each with a layer of consistent soubise purée (No. 7238), smooth them 
dome-form, and range on a buttered baking sheet; coat them over with a layer of reduced 
and nearly cold espagnole sauce (No. 414), and then push them into a slow oven to glaze. Lay 
each separate noisette on a thin slice of fried bread also covered with soubise and dress on a very 
hot dish. 


MUTTON. 537 


(1611). NOISETTES OF MUTTON, PROVENQAL STYLE (Noisettes de Mouton a la Provencale), 


Select large mutton fillets; remove the fat and skin, then cut them up on the bias into four- 
ounce slices; flatten and pare them round-shaped (after they are pared they should weigh three 
ounces each), then salt over. Chop up the parings very finely, have an equal quantity of salt pork 
and cut-up ham, each chopped separately and mixed after, and a handful of soaked and pressed 
bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. With this preparation make some small 

cakes the same size as the noisettes; dip them in beaten eggs and roll in fine bread- -crumbs; fry them 
in butter the same time as the noisettes, drain, dry and lay the noisettes on top of the forcemeat 
cakes; glaze them over and pour some Provengal sauce (No. 529) around and serve. 


(1612), NOISETTES OF MUTTON WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Noisettes de Mouton aux Fines 
Herbes Cuites), 


Pare some mutton fillets, remove all sinews and fat, then cut them up into slices; pare them 
round; fry in butter, season, drain off the butter and add some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), 
and half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress the meat on round slices of bread cut a quarter of an inch 
thick by two inches across, fried in butter and laid on a dish; pour the sauce over and serve. 


(1613), PAUPIETTES OF FILLET OF MUTTON A LA DELUSSAN (Paupiettes de Filets de 
Mouton & la Delussan), 


Cut the mutton fillets when well pared in eighth of an inch thick slices lengthways of the 
meat; flatten down these small bands and season each with salt and pepper; cover one side with 
chicken forcemeat (No. 62) into which has been added an equal quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 
385); roll them up cylinder-shape and run them on a skewer; pour over some melted butter and 
oroil them over the fire; dress and cover over with a reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414), to which 
sliced mushrooms have been added; incorporating into it at the last moment some chopped parsley. 


(1614), SLICES OF ‘FILLET OF MUTTON, MAITRE-D'HOTEL (Tranches de Filets de Mouton 2 la 
Maitre-d’ Hotel), 


Pare well the minion fillets from the mutton; cut them lengthwise through their thickness, 
pare and season with salt, then bread-crumb them English style (No. 13), and broil to a fine color. 
Dress these on a hot dish and sprinkle over with either maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581) orelse a 
thickened maitre-d’hotel sauce (No. 493). 


(1615), FILLETS OF MUTTON LARDED, WITH GREEK RAVIOLES—WHOLE (Filets de Mouton 
Entiers Piqués aux Ravioles & la Grecque), 


Raise, pare, and remove the sinews from some mutton fillets; lard them with fine larding pork 
(No. 3, Fig. 52) and roast them in a hot oven; when done, dress on a garnishing of Greek ravioles. 

Greek Ravioles.—Chop fine and pound one pound of fillet or loin of mutton, add to this a 
sheep’s brain, cooked, well drained, and pounded, and two ounces of rice previously boiled in water; 
Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and add one ounce of chopped onions fried in butter, some 
chopped parsley, a little béchamel (No. 409) half an ounce of fresh butter, and four raw egg-yolks; 
taste this forcemeat, to see whether the seasoning be correct, then use it to make square ravioles 
as described in No. 158, when poached and drained, place them in some clear gravy (No. 404) to 
simmer for a few moments until it is absorbed, bestrewing the ravioles with grated cheese; pour 
over a thin tomato purée (No. 730) serving a clear gravy (No. 404) separately.. 


(1616), MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA BURTEL (Rognons de Mouton a la Burtel), 


Suppress both the skin and fatty parts from eight kidneys; separate each one into two and lay 
them in a pan with melted butter, and a pinch of shallot; toss quickly and when well seized, season 
with salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne pepper; as fast as their humidity is reduced lift them up 
with askimmer and lay in a small vessel. Poura quarter of a pint of Madeira wine into the pan, let 
reduce to half, then add as much melted glaze (No. 402); boil the liquid, and thicken it at once 
with small bits of kneaded butter (No. 579); at the first boil stir in the kidneys, and at the same 
time two tablespoonfuls of cooked ham cut in small dice, and a pinch of chopped up tarragon. 
Remove the stew from the fire, pour it into a dish and surround with fried bread croftons glazed 


with a brush. 


538 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1617), MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA SOUBISE (Rornons déMouton & la Soubise, = 

There is a certain way of splitting the kidneys ‘and running them-on skewers so that when 
cooked they form a very distinct hollow in the center; for this it requires that they be split deeply 
on the hollow side, opened, and two skewers thrust through the entire thickness, each side of the 
fat so that the meats come together again while cooking, the center forming a pocket; season and 
roll them in melted butter, broil over a good fire, then withdraw the skewers, and glaze the 
kidneys with a brush. Dress them on a dish and fill in the hollow with a slightly consistent 
soubise purée (No. 723), laid on through a small pocket or paper cornet. Serve them at once; the 
soubise may be replaced by a béarnaise sauce (No. 433). 


(1618). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS (Rognons de Mouton en Brochettes), 
Select fine chocolate colored mutton kidneys, for those either black or pale yellow are of a poorer 
quality. Split them three-quarters through the round part, so as to open without separating the 
pieces; suppress the light skin that covers the surfaces, hee them out, and stick a metal skewer 


(he 


\K 





Fig. 341. 


through their thickness, to keep them entirely opened; season with salt, coat with oil or melted 
butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs. then broil with the open side toward the fire; five or six 
minutes after turn them over and lay a piece of maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581), the size of a small 
hickory nut, on top of each, and after they are done, dress. The skewers may be removed before 
serving, and a little of the maitre d’hétel butter laid on top of each kidney. 


(1619), MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, BORDELAISE SAUCE (Brochettes de Rognons de Mou- 
ton a la Sauce Bordelaise), 


Cut the kidneys across in six pieces; have small inch squares of bacon an eighth of an inch 
thick, place an alternate piece of kidney and bacon on the skewers, season, dip in oil, and roll in 
bread-crumbs; broil over a brisk fire, serving with a separate bordelaise sauce (No. 436). 


(1620) MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, DEVILED (Rognons de Mouton en Brochettes 4 la 
Diable), 

Split the kidneys through on the round side, opening without separating the parts; spread 
open and thrust a metal skewer through; season with salt, and coat over with mustard and pre- 
pared red pepper (No. 168), roll in bread-crumbs, besprinkle with oil and broil, then dress them on 
a deviled sauce (No. 459). 


(1621), MUTTON KIDNEYS SAUTED WITH FLEURONS (Rognons de Mouton Sautés aux Fleurons). 


To obtain good sautéd kidneys it should be well understood that they must be tossed over a. 
brisk fire and fried, not cooked in their sauce; split eight mutton kidneys in two, obtaining sixteen, 
halves. Put three ounces of butter in a sautéing pan, and when hot add the kidneys laying them: 
on their flat side; season with salt and pepper. then toss them over a bright fire until they are sized, 
but very rare, meaning that the meats are browned without drying. In another pan, fry two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and when of a good color moisten with a little gravy (No. 404), 
brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; boil this sauce quickly, stirring it for a few moments and 
when nicely thickened, add to it some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), lemon juice and the kidneys, 
heat well without boiling, dress and pour the sauce over. Garnish with some fanciful fleurons cut 
from puff paste parings (No. 146) made as follows: Cut the paste in the shape of minion filets of 
chicken; cut these through from the edge half way across the width, bring the two ends toward 
each other to form a half circle, this will open the cuttings, place on a baking sheet and cook in 
a mild oven. 


(1622), LEG OF MUTTON A LA BORDELAISE (Gigot de Mouton a la Bordelaise). 


Bone a leg of mutton without opening it, lard the inside of the meat with medium shreds of 
raw ham seasoned with salt, pepper and fine spices; fill in the hollow space with a few spoonfuls of 
veal and fat pork chopped up with fine herbs; sew up the opening. Saw the handle bone off short 


MUTTON. | 539 


and lay the leg in a braziere with melted salt pork and let fry on a slow fire for fifteen minutes, 
turning it so that it acquires a good color all over. Moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), then 
cover the saucepan and let the liquid fall slowly to a glaze; remoisten to about the heighth of the 
meat and continue cooking on a slow fire for an hour and a half, add to the meat a half pound of 
blanched bacon cutin half inch squares, and boil moderately for an hour longer, then surround 
the meat with a garnishing of large carrots and turnips cut in three-quarter inch balls; twelve 
medium white onions browned in a pan with lard, salt and a pinch of sugar, two cloves of garlic 
and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf—the meat and vegetables must both 
be done at the same time. Drain the leg, dress and range around the vegetables; strain and free 
the gravy from fat, thicken it witha little tomato sauce (No. 549) and serve in a sauce-boat. 


(1623), LEG OF MUTTON A LA BOURDALOUE (Gigot de Mouton & la Bourdaloue), 


Bone the leg without opening it, and lard the meat with raw ham, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
fine spices and chopped parsley. Tie up the leg and fry it in butter, then moisten with red wine 
and beef stock (No. 194a), and add small half inch blanched carrot balls, small onions and a gar- 
nished bunch of parsley, having the moistening to three-quarters the height of the leg, season 
and set it in a slow oven for three or four hours. After the leg is cooked, dress it on a dish, 
strain the stock, free it of its fat and reduce it with some brown sauce (No. 414). Garnish one side 
with the carrots and the other with the onions and at both ends place some mushrooms sautéd in. 
butter (No. 2760). Poura part of the sauce over the onions and carrots and serve the rest in a 

sauce-boat. / 


(1624), LEG OF MUTTON A LA BOURGEOISE (Gigot de Mouton a la Bourgeoise), 


Bone a leg of mutton without opening it, lard it with large pieces of salt pork seasoned with 
salt, pepper, allspice and chopped parsley; cover the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134) with slices of 
the same pork, lay the leg on top with a gill of Madeira wine and a little beef stock (194a), let fall 
to aglaze, then pour over more broth and a gill of brandy, and add a bunch of parsley garnished 
with thyme and bay leaf, carrots and onions cut in four, one clove of garlic and a few peppers, 
moisten with some more stock and cook slowly allowing half an hour for each pound of meat. In. 
the meanwhile prepare a garnishing of turned carrots and small onions, blanch and cook them. 
separately till half done, then finish cooking in the leg of mutton braise strained for the purpose; 
in order to accomplish this, place the leg in another braziere and strain the stock over, when the- 
meat is cooked and glazed surround it with clusters of the vegetables, reduce the liquid, pour 
half of it over the meat, and serve the other half in a sauce-boat. 


(1625), LEG OF MUTTON A LA CHIPOLATA (Gigot de Mouton a la Chipolata). 


Select an eight pound leg of mutton, saw the handle off two inches below the joint, bone the- 
loin end and pare well the fat; trim and round the end around the loin. Line a braziere (Fig. 
134) with a layer of carrots and minced onions, adding the bones and parings from the meat, also 
a garnished bouquet; lay in the meat and moisten with beef stock (No. 194a) then cover the braziere: 
and reduce till the liquid falls to a glaze; remoisten to three-quarters its height with more broth, 
let come toa boil, skim and set it in the oven to cook for three to three hours and a half, being: 
careful to baste it constantly during this time. Remove the leg, strain the stock and return both 
it and the leg to the braziere with some square pieces of breast of pork fried in butter, mushroom 
heads, small onions fried in butter, roasted chestnuts and fried sausages (No. 754) having their 
skin suppressed; let the whole simmer slowly for one hour, skim off the fat, dress the leg ranging. 
the garnishings tastefully around; pour the sauce over and serve. 


(1626), LEG OF MUTTON A LA REGLAIN (Gigot de Mouton 4 la Reglain), 


Bone a leg of mutton without opening, place it in an earthen vessel and pour over a cold 
cooked marinade (No. 114); marinate it for twelve hours, then lard the meat with medium-lardons. 
(No. 2, Fig. 52) and lay it on a dish to coat over with lard; roast it and when it has attained 
a fine color, pour over its strained marinade and finish the cooking, keeping it basted at short in- 
tervals. Prepare some slices of tongue and cover each one with a croquette preparation made 
with sheep’s brains, minced mushrooms, velouté sauce (No. 415), chopped parsley, egg-yolks and 
fresh butter; dust with bread-crumbs, dip in eggs and fry. Dress and garnish the leg around with 
the slices of tongue, and serve with a separate marinade sauce (No. 496). 


540 | 3 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1627), LEG OF MUTTON A LA ROEDERER (Gigot de Mouton & la Roederer). 


Prepare and cook a leg of mutton on the spit, reserve carefully the dripping pan stock; half — 


an hour before serving blanch half a pound of small macaroni for ten minutes, drain, and. lay it 
in the dripping pan under the meat. Prick the leg with a trussing needle to let its blood fall on 


the macaroni. When the leg is cooked, drain and dress on a vegetable dish layers of the maca- 


roni alternated with grated parmesan, and so on until finished; pour some clear gravy (No. 


404) over into which a little tomato purée (No. 730) has been added. Dress the meat, garnish — 


the handles with a frill (No. 10) and serve a little clear gravy separately. 


(1628), BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, GRANVILLE (Gigot de Mouton Bouilli & la Granville), 


Saw off short the end bone of a leg of mutton, suppress all surperfluous fat, and weigh it, 


plunge it into a large soup-pot containing boiling, salted water, cover, and continue to boil until — 


the leg is cooked, which will require fifteen minutes for every pound of meat. Boiled legs of mut- 
ton should always be cooked rare. Have already prepared a garnishing of carrot balls, 
three-quarters of an inch in diameter, blanched and cooked in beef stock (No. 194a); small 
boiled onions; olive-shaped potatoes, boiled, drained and then rolled in a little fresh butter 
with chopped parsley and lemon juice, and cork-shaped turnips, blanched and cooked in beef 
stock; form a handle about two inches long by scraping the end bone clean. Dress the leg, glaze 
the surface and garnish around with clusters of the vegetables. Serve at the same time a buttered 
tomatoed velouté sauce (No. 415). Just when ready to send to table, arrange a paper frill (No. 
10) on the end bone and serve. 


(1629), BOILED LEG OF MUTTON WITH MASHED TURNIPS AND OAPER SAUCE (Gigot de 
Mouton Bouilli & la Purée de Navets et & la Sauce aux Capres), 


With Mashed Turnips.—Have a leg of mutton prepared and cooked as explained a la Gran- 


ville (No. 1628). Put to boil with the leg after it has been in the water for half an hour, two 
pounds of turnips cut in four; when done mash them to a pulp and pass through a sieve, season 


with salt, nutmeg and a little sugar and add four ounces of butter, lay this around the meat, — 


serving some clear gravy separately. 
With Caper Sauce.—Garnish around the leg with boiled potatoes, and serve with a butter 
sauce (No. 440) into which nonpareil capers have been added. 


(1630), LEG OF MUTTON A LA MILANAISE—KERNEL (Noix de Gigot de Mouton a la Milanaise), 


Remove the kernels from four legs of mutton, the same as the kernel of veal; free the top from fat 
and sinews and lard it with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); line a braziere with slices of fat pork, set the ker- 
nels on top and wet with one pint of mirepoix (No. 419); reduce the liquid to a mere nothing, then 
remoisten to three-quarters of their heighth adding two gills of brandy. Cook it in the oven until 
done, being careful to baste frequently; prepare a rice socle, lay the kernel on top, glaze and garnish 
around with small macaroni timbales Milanaise (No. 2988). Serve the stock reduced with espag- 
nole sauce (No. 414) separately. 


(1631), LEG OF MUTTON IN PAPERS—KERNELS (Noix. de Gigot de Mouton en Papillotes). 


temove the kernel from a leg of mutton the same as for a kernel of veal; pare it nicely, take 
off all the fat and lard it with small lardons (No.3, Fig.52), then roast it quite rare, cut it in quarter 
inch thick slices. Have a sufficiently large sheet of paper, cut it into heart-shape, butter over and 
lay a little finely sliced ham on top of one side; over this place some Duxelle (No. 385) well reduced 
with a clove of garlic and chopped parsley, and set the slices of mutton on top, cover the whole with 
more Duxelle, then fold the paper, crimp the edges around; before finishing the crimping pour a 
little Madeira sauce (No. 492), and finish plaiting the paper to enclose hermetically, lay the paper 
on the dish intended for the table, pour over a little oil and push it into a moderate oven, when 


nicely browned, serve separately with a very hot Duxelle sauce (No. 461) to which some Madeira — 


wine has been added. 


(1632) LEG OF MUTTON A LA LYONNAISE—MINOED (Emineé de Gigot de Mouton a la Lyonnaise), 


Pare and suppress all the fat from a cold cooked leg of mutton, cut it in slices and fry these in a 
little butter, season with salt and pepper, parsley and lemon juice, and just when ready to serve pour 
off the butter and add a piece of meat glaze (No. 402). Dress the meat crown-shaped on a dish. 


i 
a. 
. 

« 
a 
‘ 

k 








MUTTON. 541 


_ Fry some minced and blanched onions in butter; when a fine golden color, drain off the butter 
and add some velouté sauce (No. 415) and cream; reduce well and then pour it over the slices, 
bestrew chopped parsley over and serve very hot. 


(1633), LEG OF MUTTON ON THE SPIT (Gigot de Mouton a la Broche), 


Pick out a leg with a short handle bone, and very rounded at its thickest part, having a thin 
transparent skin and covered with white fat near the tail. Let it hang as long as possible to be 
tender. When it is required for use, pare nicely, remove the aitchbone, saw off the knuckle and 
make a handle two inches long; scrape the bone very white. Lay the leg on the spit thrusting the 
split in near the end bone, letting it come out at the loin bone, then cover over with sheets of 
well buttered paper. One hour and twenty minutes before serving, lay it in front of the fire, baste 
often, when nearly cooked salt over. Just when ready to serve withdraw the spit, dress and pour 
over some clear gravy (No. 404); trim the end bone with a paper frill (No. 10). Serve separately 
a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404). 


1634), LEG OF MUTTON, PARISIAN STYLE, IN THE OVEN (Gigot de Mouton & la Parisienne 
au Four), 


Saw off the handle of the’leg below the knuckle bone; insert a piece of garlic near the handle, 
then lay the meat in a baking pan; pour some good drippings and water over and roast it in the 
oven, adding a little more water every time the fat clarifies in order to prevent it burning; when 
cooked, dress the leg, surrounding it with large olive-shaped potatoes cooked with butter in a 
slow oven and baste the leg with the gravy, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. Trim the 
handle (Fig. 164) with a paper frill (No. 10) or one of silver used for this purpose. 


(1635), LEG OF MUTTON WITH PUREE OF BEANS (Gigot de Mouton & la Purée de Haricots), 


Pound half a pound of chopped fat salt pork with an equal quantity of cooked ham, bread-crumbs, 
two eggs, a finely shredded shallot, previously fried in butter, parsley, and a tiny bit of crushed 
garlic; cut some thin slices of a leg of mutton, flatten to three-sixteenths of an inch, pare to two 
inch squares, season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cover one side with the prepared 
forcemeat, roll them up and run askewer through each; dip them into melted butter, roll in bread- 
crumbs, and broil over a slow fire to attain a good color, then dress them on a purée of white 
beans (No. 706), with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over the whole. 


(1636). LEG OF MUTTON WITH RICE (Gigot de Mouton au Riz), 


Bone a leg of mutton; remove the aitchbone and the large bone as far as the joint; season 
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill the inside with a pork stuffing as in No. 68, mixing with 
it half its quantity of boiled and finely chopped ham, as much bread-crumbs as ham, an ounce 
of chopped onion, a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, and two egg-yolks. Sew up the leg so 
as to secure the forcemeat enclosed therein. Melt half a pound of fat pork, fry the leg in it, drain 
off the fat, season, and moisten to three quarters its height with stock (No. 194a), adding to 
the liquid two medium onions, stuck with two cloves, and four peeled and quartered tomatoes: 
allow the leg to cook slowly for three hours, then strain off the stock, free it of its fat and take 
away a third part, returning this to the leg after having untied it. Add to the other two parts, 
half a pound of Carolina rice and let cook for twenty minutes, then put in some butter and grated 
cheese, stirring it in with a fork. Dress the leg, glaze it over and decorate the handle bone with a 
paper frill (No. 10); garnish around with the rice, strain the stock from the leg once more, skim 
off its fat, reduce to half and serve it in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1637), LOIN OF MUTTON ROASTED, ON THE SPIT OR IN THE OVEN (Longe de Mouton Rotie 


& la Broche ou au Four), 


Have a three pound loin of mutton; bone it entirely without detaching the minion fillet; remove 
the skin covering the fat and roll the flank over on itself as far as the minion fillet, then tie it firmly 
with five rounds of string, making a knot in each round, giving the lointhe shape of a long square. 
Set it to roast either on the spit or in the oven; if for the former it will take from thirty to forty 
minutes, and a few more if for the latter. When the loin is cooked and of a fine color, untie, dress, 
and glaze it, strain the gravy, free it of its fat, and serve a part of it under the meat and the re- 


mainder separately. 


542 TYiE EPICUREAN. 


(1638). LOIN WITH PUREE OF CARROTS (Longe & la Purée de Carottes), 


Suppress part of the fat without uncovering the meat from a loin of mutton; beat and flatten 
the flap, bone the loin without separating the tenderloin from the fillet, then season with salt, 
mignonette and nutmeg; roll it up in the shape of a muff and tie it well, lay the meat in a saucepan 
with some grated fat pork and let fry to a fine golden color; drain off the fat and moisten with a 
pint of stock (No. 194a) and a gill of brandy, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme 
and bay leaf; cover over with a strong sheet of buttered paper, set it on the fire and when it 
comes to a boil push it into a moderate oven until thoroughly cooked, then untie, glaze and dress 


on a purée of carrots (No. 709). 


(1639), NECK OF MUTTON JUGGED AND MARINATED, THICKENED WITH BLOOD (ollet 
de Mouton Oivet Marinade Lié au Sang), 


Bone a neck of mutton, remove all the sinews and fat and then cut it up into one and a quarter 
inch square pieces; lay them in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, sprigs of parsley, minced 
onions, oil, a little vinegar, bay leaf and thyme; let marinate for two hours, then drain and wipe off the 
pieces. Heat four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it the meat and fry them well, dredge in 
two spoonfuls of flour and moisten with one pint of red or white wine and stock (No.194a) ina way 
that the meat is covered; add a garnished bunch of parsley and leave to cook foran hour and a 
half, putting in half an hour before serving, some small glazed white onions and cooked mush- 
rooms. The meat being now well done and properly seasoned, take out the parsley and thicken the 
sauce either with some pig’s or chicken’s blood, then serve. 


(1640), SCOTCH HAGGIS (Panse Caillette), 


In a quart of water boil one pound of calf’s liver until throughly done; chop it up finely with 
one pound of beef suet, free of skin and fibres, one pound of lean beef from the rump, one pound of 
onions and add an ounce of salt, an ounce of ground pepper, one pound of oatmeal and the water 
the liver was boiled in. With this preparation fill a well-cleaned sheep’s paunch, sew it up with 
strong thread and wrap it in a buttered cloth; plunge it into boiiing water and let cook gently for 
four hours; prick it several times while cooking with a trussing needle; drain, unwrap a few 
moments later and turn it over on a hot dish. Serve at the same time cakes made with three 
pounds of oatmeal, one pound of wheat flour, an ounce of lard and salt. These cakes are eight inches 
in diameter and one-eighth of an inch thick; bake them in a slow oven. 


(1641), MUTTON PILAU, FRENCH STYLE (Pilau de Mouton & la Francaise), 
Remove the fat and bones from the thick end of a loin of mutton; divide the meats into regu- 
Jar one and a half inch pieces and fry them in butter for ten minutes; add sliced carrots and 
onions, mushroom peelings and salt; moisten to three-quarters of the 
height with mutton broth made with the bones and trimmings; reduce 
| the moisture slowly to a glaze, then moisten and reduce once more; re- 
ih MME §=rooisten for the third time to the full height and continue to boil slowly 
ui i i ieee) until the meats are very nearly done, now lift them out one by one, pare 
| i) ‘| nicely, and place them in a charlotte mold or a special tinned copper 
sl saucepan, provided with a hermetically fitted lid (Fig. 342), strain the 
Fia. 342. liquid over the meats, letting it reach slightly above their height and 
add three spoonfuls of tomato purée (No. 730), a tablespoonful of powdered 
sweet Spanish peppers and a little cayenne pepper. Boil, then add half a pound of well-picked and 
washed Carolina rice, dried for an hour on a sieve; close the saucepan hermetically and set it in 


the oven to cook the contents for twenty minutes without touching it—the riceshould be kept quite 
whole. Serve this stew in a tureen or vegetable dish or else in the saucepan itself. 


(1642), QUARTER OF MUTTON WITH GASTRONOME POTATOES (Quartier de Mouton aux 
Pommes Gastronome), 


Suppress and trim the end bone of the leg by sawing it off two inches from the shank bone; cut 
the meat away evenly two inches deep, and scrape the bone free from meat. Bone the spine as far 
as the beginning of the ribs and saw it through its whole length; roll the flap over and tie it down; 
put the quarter on the spit, passing the bar alongside the handle, letting it come out at the loin 
bone, and follow along the minion fillet; maintain the meat in position with skewers, equalize the 

veight well, so that the spit turns evenly and fasten the handles firmly. Cover the quarter over 



































SF wae td, om de 


with a buttered paper, and one hour and a quarter -before serving, put. the spit in front of the fire; 
fifteen minutes before dinner, unwrap and let it brown nicely; withdraw it from the spit, glaze, 
dress and garnish around with gastronome potatoes (No. 2789), and trim the end bone with a fluted 
paper frill (No. 10); pour over a rather thin half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve. 


(1643), RACK OF MUTTON WITH SMALL ROOTS (Carré-de-Mouton aux Petites Racines), 


Have two racks of six ribs each and five inches wide; beginning at the fillet, bone the loin on 
the spine end, and saw through the spinal bone, pare the 
racks and lard it with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), then 
place the two racks in a sautoir containing slices of fat pork, 
carrots, onions, cloves, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 
123), moisten with a pint of water, reduce entirely and re- 
moisten to three-quarters of its heighth with beef stock (No. 
194a); let cook for one hour, basting frequently in such a 
way that they become both cooked and glazed at the same 
time. Dress the racks on a garnishing of small roots cut in balls, or else on a garnishing of cream 
chiccory purée (No. 729). 



























































(1644), SADDLE OF MUTTON, DUCHESS STYLE (Selle de Mouton, & la Duchesse), 


Pare and shorter the rib bones above the flaps; cut these off straight and with the tip of a 
knife, separate the rings of the spinal bones at equal distances apart; tie it firmly and lay it onaspit 
to cook for one hour to one hour and a quarter according to its size; baste frequently while cook- 
ing, untie, salt, brown and glaze the meat. Dress and garnish around with duchess potatoes (No. 
2785) and the ends with spinach rissoles prepared as explained (No. 161), filling them with spinach 
(No. 2820). A separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) is to be served at the same time. 


(1645), SADDLE OF MUTTON, GERMAN STYLE (Selle de Mouton & l’Allemande), 


Braise a saddle exactly as explained for the saddle with glazed roots (No. 1649). Half an hour 
before serving, drain and cover the surface with a lamb forcemeat (No. 92), and raw fine 


_ herbs that have been mingled with some allemande sauce (No. 407).. Finish cooking in a moderate 


oven and when done, glaze and dress the meat on an oval dish, garnishing around with carrots 
and green peas sautéd together. 


(1646), SADDLE OF MUTTON. PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Selle de Mouton 4 la Piémontaise), 


Have a good saddle of mutton, hang it in a cool place for eight days to have it tender; pare 
the two fillets, suppress all the fat and skin adhering to the meat so as to be able to lard it 
with larding pork, then roll the flanks under. Tie up the saddle, lay it in an English cradle spit 
(Fig. 344), after it has been wrapped in a buttered paper, and let roast in front of a moderate fire for 
an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently during the time; remove the paper to let attain a good 
color, then untie it on a baking pan, detach the two fillets, leaving on some of the fat; cut them 
up slanting and replace them from whence they were taken. In the meantime prepare a Piedmontese 
risot (No. 739), and just when ready to serve dress the saddle on a relevé dish with the risot; be- 
sprinkle over with a few handfuls of chopped white Piedmontese truffles, glaze it over and send 
to the table accompanied by a sauce-boat of thickened gravy (No. 405). 


(1647), SADDLE OF MUTTON, PRINTANIBRE (Selle de Mouton Printaniére), 

Prepare and braise a saddle the same as for the one with glazed roots (N o. 1649), half an hour 
before serving, glaze the surface of the meat, strain the stock and reduce with Madeira sauce (No. 
492). Dress the saddle on a long dish with a macédoine garnishing (No. 680) around it alter- 
nating the colors. Pour a little of the sauce under the saddle; glaze it properly and serve the 
remainder of the sauce-boat apart. 


(1648), SADDLE OF MUTTON ROASTED ON THE SPIT (Selle de Mouton Rétie & la Broche), 

The saddle is the whole loin and first rib; cut off the two legs below the tail ina round-shape, direct- 
ing the knife toward the flanks (Fig. 340). Carefully remove the fat both on the top and the under 
toward the loin end, and part of the kidney fat. Roll the flanks of the meat over on themselves, 


BAA THE EPICUREAN. 


make incisions in the fat on the top of the saddle, more or less deep according to its thickness, and 
keep the saddle in position with four or five rounds of string. Place the saddle on the spit, hold it 
in place with skewers run through the flanks of the meat and the holes in the spit; thrust a 
fork into the meat of the sirloin near the bone, and place on the top a long skewer, tying it firmly 





Fie. 344. 


at the two ends. Cover the meat with several sheets of buttered paper, tie them on, and one hour 
and a quarter before serving roast the saddle before a good, clear and well regulated fire. 
Fifteen minutes before serving, unwrap, glaze over and let it acquire a fine color; dress it on 
a very hot long dish, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve at the same time a sauce- 
boatful of clear gravy (No. 404), and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), half of each. 


(1649), SADDLE OF MUTTON WITH GLAZED ROOTS—BRAISED (Selle de Mouton Braisée aux 
Racines Glacées), 


Cut the loin parts beginning at the first rib; cut off the two legs below the tail, in a round 
direction going toward the flank, remove the thin skin covering the fat, and roll the flank over, 


keeping it in position with six rounds of string, tying a knot at each round. Place the meat ina — 


braziere having the grater or leaf covered with sliced pork, moisten with two quarts of stock (No. 
194a) adding half a pound of grated fat pork, two carrots, two onions, two bunches of parsley gar- 
nished with thyme and bay leaf, and one gill of brandy; three hours before serving let it come to a 
boilon a brisk fire, baste the meat covered with a heavy and strongly buttered paper, then set it in 
the oven being careful to watch that it simmers slowly until it is cooked; ten minutes before serving 
drain it on a baking pan, untie carefully, coat it over with glaze, and glaze it in the oven. 


Dress the saddle, glaze it afresh and group around clusters of glazed new carrots, glazed onions — 


and celery root. Strain the stock, remove the fat and reduce with brown sauce (No. 413) and 
Madeira, this sauce to be served separately. 


(1650), SADDLE OR BARON—IN THE OVEN—WITH MASHED POTATOES (Selle ou Baron au 
Four & la Purée de Pommes), 


Prepare a saddle or baron of mutton the same as for No. 1648; after it has been pared and 
tied, wrap it up and lay it in a deep baking pan coated over with fat; add a little water, then put 


it in the oven to cook for an hour to an hour and a quarter, unwrap fifteen minutes before serving;. 






uM a 


Fic. 345. 


W/ 


i 


glaze, color nicely, then dress it on a hot long dish; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) over and serve 
at the same time a sauce-boat. of clear gravy reduced to.a half-glaze, also a vegetable dish full of 
mashed potatoes (No. 2798), or else olive-shaped potatoes cooked in butter. 


(1651), SHOULDER OF MUTTON, MARINATED WITH CREAM SAUCE (Epaule de. Mouton 


Marinée Sauce & la Crdéme), 


Bone the shoulder as far as half way down the shank bone; lard the inside of the meat with 
small lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), seasoned with salt and pepper, then set it into a vessel and pour 
over a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114), leaving it in for twelve hours. Line a saucepan 
with bards of fat pork and sliced carrots and onions; roll and tie the shoulder and lay it on top; 
moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), and when reduced to a glaze, remoisten and cook the 





MUTTON. 545 





“meat e a fine color in the oven for three hours and a half; remove the shoulder, skim the fat. 
from the stock, add one pint of cream to the stock, and let simmer for a few minutes; straim 
through a sieve and reduce to the consistency of a oo sauce, adding to it a very little bread 
eens; serve this at the same > time as the shoulder. 


1652 SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH POTATOES (Epaule de Mouton aux Pommes de Terre), 


Bone two shoulders of mutton leaving on the handles only; suppress the sinews and skin from 
the inside meats, season and roll up lengthwise, sewing them well; put them into a small roasting- 
pan lined with fragments of salt pork, and pour melted butter over, and cook them till three- 
quarters done in a moderate oven, turning them over and adding a little water, should the fat 
threaten to burn. A few minutes before serving season with salt. Cut into medium slices some 
raw peeled potatoes; mince three or four white onions, and fry them with butter in a sautoir over 
a slow fire; when they begin to brown add the potatoes, season and fry together for seven or eight. 
minutes. Remove the meat to lay it on a long earthen dish capable of going in the oven, set the 
potatoes around, aud baste them, also the meat with the strained fat from the pan; let the 
shoulders cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes longer, then dress and garnish the 
handles with paper frills (No. 10) and lay the potatoes around them. 


(1653), SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH RICE (paul de Mouton au Riz), 


Cut into small two inch squares a shoulder of young mutton; put them into asaucepan with hot 
butter, and let fry on a brisk fire until they take a color: season, and add a few spoonfuls of raw 
ham cut in dice, and a bunch of parsley garnished with one bay leaf, as much thyme and a clove 
of garlic. Fry all together fer a few moments, then moisten to their heighth with stock (No. 
194a), and half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549); when the liquid has boiled for five minutes 
remove the saucepan on a more moderate fire, and when the meats are partially or three-quarters 
done, put in a sufficient quantity of rice corresponding to the volume of the third of the liquid; cook 
this rice for fifteen minutes, then set the saucepan into aslow oven to finish cooking both rice and 
meat. Pour the stew into a vegetable dish and serve. 


(1654), SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS (Epaule de Mouton aux Navets), 


Bone a shoulder of mutton keeping the shank bone on; remove all sinews from the inside meats: 
as well as the fat, and lard with medium lardons (No.2, Fig.52); season with salt, pepper. and nutmeg, 
then roll it up and tie. Put some clarified butter in a saucepan with the shoulder, fry it to a fine- 
color, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) or water, adding some medium-sized carrots cut in four, and 
two medium onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and a clove of garlic, let sim- 
mer for two hours. Withdraw the carrots, onions, and parsley, and replace them by some turnips. 
pared into olive or, clove of garlic shape, and fried in butter with a little sugar; let the whole cook 
slowly for an hour and a half, making three and a half hours in all, skim off the fat, season to taste,. 
and dress the shoulder with the turnips around, then reduce the stock, strain, pour part of it over: 
the meat and serve what remains in a sauce-boat. 


(1655), SHEEP'S TAILS WITH OLIVES (Queues de Mouton anx Olives), 


Suppress the thin ends of eight tails previously parboiled; put them into a saucepan with half 
« pound of lard, two onions and a half minced carrot; fry the whole together, seasoning well, and 
when they are a nice color, dredge over with two ounces of flour; moisten with hot stock (No. 194a)) 
and white wine. Boil the liquid for ten minutes, then remove it to the side of the range or else set 
it in the oven until the tails are cooked; strain the sauce through a sieve, skim the fat off carefully, 
and add to it a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce until properly thickened. Pare the tails, 
lay them in the sauce to heat and add some stoned Spanish olives; a few minutes later, serve on as 
very hot dish and surround with the garnishing of olives, purée of potatoes (No. 725) or risot (No. 739).- 


(1656). MUTTON TENDONS WITH MUSHROOMS (Tendrons de Mouton aux Champignons), 


Cut the tendons from the end of the breast: braise. then lay them under a weight, and wher 
cold cut them up into escalops, and dip in Villeroi sauce (No. 560), fry in clarified butter; dress 


crown-shaped with stewed mushrooms and cream in the middle. 


546 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1657), SHEEP'S TONGUES, EOARLATE WITH SPINACH (Langues de Mouton Ecarlate aux 


Epinards), 

Have several sheep’s tongues; prick them with a trussing needle, and rub over with a 
little powdered saltpetre; keep them in a cool place until the following day; then prepare a brine 
of salt water, stir it to dissolve the salt, having enough of it to enable a potato to float on the sur- 
face. Lay the tongues in an earthen crock, pour the salted water over, and a few days after when 
sufficiently red, soak them for twelve hours, and then blanch in plenty of water. Braise the 
tongues in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) moistened with white wine, and let boil; when cooked set 
them under a weight, pare and keep warm; dress and garnish with cooked spinach (No. 2820). 
Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 4138) apart. 


(1658), SHEEP'S TONGUES, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Langues de Mouton 4 la Napolitaine), 


Blanch and then braise the tongues for two hours ina mirepoix stock (No.419) with white wine; 
when cooked pull off the white skin that covers them and lay them under a weight. Split the 
tongues lengthwise in two, cover the flat side with some Duxelle (No. 885), dip them in beaten eggs 
and fry; dress in a circle filling in the center with some Neapolitan macaroni (No. 2960), and serve 
with a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(1659), SHEEP'S TROTTERS A LA POULETTE (Pieds de Mouton 2 la Poulette), 


Prepare and cook them as for the vinaigrette (No. 1660); then drain. Put some velouté 
sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom liquor into a saucepan, add the trotters and some turned 
or channeled mushrooms (No. 118) previously cooked. Boil. season with salt and pepper, and 
thicken with egg-yolks diluted in cream, and just when ready to serve incorporate fresh butter, 
lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(1660). SHEEP'S TROTTERS A LA VINAIGRETTE (Pieds de Mouton & la Vinaigrette), 


Should they have to be prepared at home they would need scalding and scraping with a knife 
in order to remove all the hairs; cut the soles from the hoofs so as to suppress a part of the woolly 
tuft found thereon; cut the ends of the ergots, tie the feet, four of them together, and blanch until 
they boil; then drain and refresh, place them in a soup-pot, covering them over with cold water, 
adding salt, pepper, spices, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), onions, carrots and one ounce of 
flour diluted in cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the vessel and cook the feet for five 
hours, when done take out the shank bone which easily detaches without the slightest effort. Just 
when ready to serve untie and drain; remove the leg bone and wipe the feet on a cloth; dress them 
on a hot dish with a napkin under, and surround with green parsley leaves. Serve a vinaigrette 
sauce (No. 634) separately. ; 


‘ a 


LAMB (Agneau). 





(1661), BARON OF YEARLING LAMB A LA DE RIVAS Garon d’Agneau Tardif & la de Rivas). 


Cut a baron from the hind part of the lamb from the first rib to the loin bone (Fig. 340). 
Roast it on the spit or in the oven, and when done trim and dress on a dish; glaze with meat glaze 
(No. 402) and garnish around with twelve stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842) and twelve stuffed mush- 
rooms (No. 692) and outside of these set small bouchées filled with cream spinach (No. 2820), place 
on top a ball of potato croquette (No. 2782) one inch in diameter. An aromatic tomato sauce (No, 
549) to be served apart. 


(1662). BREASTS OF LAMB, BAKED (Poitrines d'Agneau au Gratin), 


Prepare and cook the breasts the same as for chopped sauce (No. 1663); put them under a 
weight or in the press (Fig. 71) and press to five-eighths of an inch thick, and when cold pare by 
removing the skin and part of the fat; cut into an oblong shape, then cover with a baking force- 
meat (No. 81); lay on top of each three mushrooms, one large and two small ones: place them on 
a well-buttered baking dish, pour over an Italian sauce (No. 484), bestrew with bread raspings and 
besprinkle with butter, then brown in the oven; serve on the same dish and garnish the sides with 
round cuts of red beef tongue warmed in a litile meat glaze (No. 402), with butter and lemon juice. 


(1663), BREASTS OF LAMB, CHOPPED SAUCE (Poitrine d’'Agneau & la Sauce Hachée), 


Have two fine breasts of yearling lamb or young mutton; suppress the bone part covering the 
gristle; lay the meats in a low saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions, and 
a garnished bouquet; moisten with stock (No. 194a) cover over with buttered paper and set it into 
a moderate oven to cook for two to two hours and a half, until the bones can be easily removed. 
Drain and place the meats under the pressure of a weight to reduce to five-eighths of an inch, and 
when quite cold, pare and remove the skin carefully without touching the fat, and cut the meat up 
into half hearts, trim them, nicely rounding the angles, and dip them in melted butter, roll in 
bread-crumbs, and broil over a slow fire till they attain a fine color and are very hot, then dress 
them either in a straight row or ina circle. Garnish around with olive-shaped pieces of potato 
cooked in fresh butter, and when done, and the butter is drained off, add some salt and the 
juice of a lemon, dredging over with chopped parsley. Serve a chopped sauce (No. 539) separately. 


(1664), BREAST OF LAMB WITH TURNIPS (Poitrine d’Agneau aux Navets), 


Remove the skin covering the breast, also the gristle bone from two breasts of lamb; cut them 
up into three-quarters of an inch square pieces and fry them till brown in butter, then drain off the fat 
and moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a); boil and reduce to a glaze; remoisten a very little at the 
time, repeating this several times while cooking, and three-quarters of an hour before serving, drain 
off the meats, pare and return them to the saucepan; strain the sauce over and add some turned 
turnips fried in butter, and continue the cooking, season properly. When the meats and turnips 
are well done and fallen to a glaze, dress the turnips around. 


(1665), BREAST OF LAMB WITH VELOUTE TOMATO SAUCE—STUFFED (Poitrine d’Agneau 
Farcie & la Sauce Tomate Veloutée), 


Split open one or several yearling lamb breasts on the rib sides, by slipping the blade of a knife 
between the bone and the meat so as to make a pocket, season the inside and fill the empty space 
with forcemeat (No. 65), seasoned highly and to which add a handful of soaked and pressed out 
bread-crumbs, also some raw onions chopped and parboiled, cooked minced mushrooms and. 
chopped parsley, each of them chopped up separately, and also stir in two whole eggs. Sew up 
the opening in the breast, cook it in beef stock (No. 194a) and when done properly, which will take 
about two hours and a half, drain and untie, then serve with a tomato sauce (No. 549) reduced with 


velouté sauce (No. 415). 
ee (547) 


548 THE EPICUREHAN. 


(1666). CARBONADE OF LAMB A LA JARDINIERE (Carbonade d’Agneau & la Jardiniare), 


A earbonade or loin is the end of the rack (Fig.335), from where the cutlets begin as far down as: 
where the tail begins. Chop off entirely the chine bone without detaching the minion fillet, remove 
the skin covering the large fillet over its entire outside surface, and lard the meat with medium lar- 
dons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Roll over the flap, tie it with six rounds of string, forming a knot at each round, 
and then lay the meat in a saucepan lined with slices of fat pork, veal, ham, cut up vegetables, a 
garnished bunch of parsley and allspice, salt it over lightly and wet it with a beef stock (No. 194a); 
let fall to a glaze, then remoisten to its height with white wine and stock; allow the boiling to 
continue for five minutes, then uncover the saucepan and place it in a moderate oven to finish 
cooking, being careful to baste it frequently with its own stock, having it finally assume a fine color. 
Glaze, untie, dress and strain and skim the liquid, reduce and serve it in a sauce-boat; garnish 
around the meat with a jardiniére garnishing (No. 677). 


(1667), CARBONADE OF LAMB ALA RAMBUTEAU ‘Carbonade d’Agneau & la Rambutean). 


Bone entirely, or else remove the aitchbone only, from a loin of lamb: suppress all the fat and: 
sinews, also the skin that covers the sirloin and lard with medium-sized larding pork (No. 38, Fig. 
52) and season with salt, pepper and fine herbs; roll the flap over and tie. Line a saucepan with 
bardes of fat pork, lay the carbonade on top and moisten to its height with mirepoix stock (No. 
419); and white wine boil, then simmer in the oven for two and a half to three hours; glaze, 
untie, dress on a long dish and garnish around with small glazed onions, mushroom heads. 
and potato balls. Strain the stock, free it of fat and reduce it with as much velouté (No. 415), 
thicken with raw egg-yolks, fresh butter and lemon juice; strain it once more through a tammy,, 
and use part of it to cover the garnishings, sending the remainder to the table separately. 


(1668), LAMB'S CROWS, RAVIGOTE SAUCE (Fraises d’Agneau & la Sauce Ravigote), 


Select two very white and clean lamb’s crows. Line an earthen crock with slices of fat: 
pork, range the crows on top and add to them two medium onions one having four cloves in it, a 
bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, salt and pepper; moisten with white wine: 
and beef stock (No. 194a), cover the top with more slices of the pork, then place a deep plate over, 
filling it with water, and let cook slowly in a moderate oven for four hours, drain, and dress on a. 
hot dish, surround the crows with sprigs of parsley and serve with ravigote sauce (No. 531). 


(1669), LAMB CUTLETS, PLAIN—YEARLING (Cotelettes d’Agneau Tardif Nature), 


Five or six cutlets can be taken from a rack of yearling lamb, four or five from a spring lamb; - 
remove the skin, cut them into any desired thickness, and should the rack be too. 
thin, then cut them off on the bias. Remove and pare the bone from each chop,, 
then beat down to flatten to half an inch in thickness, and trim them all around, 
removing the skin from each side of the rib bone; scrape about an inch of the end: 
of the bone, clean off the meat and fat to enable it to be decorated with a paper frill:. 
when cooked season with salt, coat over with butter or oil, place on the gridiron all 
on the same side and broil on a slow but well maintained fire. When cooked on. 
one side, turn over and finish cooking on the other; the entire operation should take- 


about six minutes; trim the handles with paper frills (No. 10), dress and serve with. 
a little clear gravy (No. 404). 





Fic. 346, 


(1670), LAMB CUTLETS A LA BUSSY (Cételettes d’Agneau a la Bussy). 


Pare eight yearling lamb cutlets; season with salt, mask over with oil and broil quite rare on a. 
brisk fire. Prepare beforehand a salpicon of truffles, sweetbreads and mushrooms all cut up into. 
quarter inch pieces and mixed with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); as soon as it be- 
comes quite cold, add to it dice pieces of duck’s liver cut the same size. Spread this salpicon on. 
the chops all on the same side rounding it well on top; cover over with a cream forcemeat (No. 
75), besprinkle with finely chopped truffles and pour over a little melted butter. Place the 
chops in a slack oven to heat the salpicon, trim the bone handles, dress the chops flat on a. 


light béchamel and cream sauce (No. 411). Serve with some of the same sauce in a separate: 
sauce-boat. 





LAMB. 549 


(1671), LAMB OUTLETS A LA CATALANE (O6telettes d’Agneau ad la Catalane), 


Cut off twelve lamb cutlets; pare them with the bones quite short, beat them flat, salt over and 
roll in oil, range them on a broiler all one way, and broil the chops on a brisk fire on one side 
only. Reduce one pint of béchamel (No. 409) adding to it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth, 
and when nicely thickened stir in some prepared red pepper (No. 168), four spoonfuls of cooked 
mushrooms, the same quantity of cooked lean ham, both well chopped separately, and let this 
preparation become cold. Cover the cooked sides with a layer of the preparation, having it 
dome-shaped on top; bestrew with grated parmesan, then lay them on a buttered sautoir and 

pour butter over; set this for one instant on top of the range, then finish cooking the cutlets in a 
hot oven and have the preparation well browned; remove them at once to garnish the handles with 
frills (No. 10) and dress with a half-glaze (No. 413) and tomato sauce (No. 549) containing shredded 
‘sweet peppers. 


(1672), LAMB OUTLETS A LA CHARLEROI (Cotelettes d’'Agneau & la Charleroi), 


Sauté sufficient trimmed and seasoned lamb cutlets in butter; when done, drain and arrange them 
on a baking sheet one beside the other; cover over with a buttered paper and let get cold under the 
pressure of a light weight. Pare the cutlets once more and lay on one of their sides a reduced and 
thick soubise purée (No. 723); smooth and let harden for an hour, then lift up the cutlets one by 
one, and dip them in a Villeroi sauce (No. 560), allow che surplus of this to drain off, then range 
them on a baking sheet, apart from one another so that they do not touch and keep this in a cool 
place to harden the sauce. Detach the cutlets from the sheet, trim off any surplus of sauce, and 
roll the chops in grated parmesan, dip them at once into beaten eggs, and cover over with white 
bread-crumbs; smooth the surfaces nicely and range them in a frying-basket (Fig. 121), plunge this 
into hot frying-fat, drain, trim the handles and serve on a folded napkin. 


(1673), LAMB CUTLETS A LA CLEMENCE (Cételettes d’Agneau & la Clémence), 

Have ten well-pared fine cutlets seasoned with salt and pepper; sauté them in butter, dress 
erown-shaped and fill the inside with a ragotiit made as follows: To a velouté sauce (No. 415) add 
some meat glaze, (No. 402) good Madeira wine and lemon juice, also escalops of lamb’s sweetbreads 
fried in butter with minced mushrooms. ‘ Between each cutlet lay a round slice of salted, unsmoked 
red beef tongue cut three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and one inch and a half in diameter; 
garnish around with fine Julienne potatoes (No. 2792); trim the cutlet handles with frills, and 
‘serve very hot. . 


(1674), LAMB CUTLETS A LA DURAND (Cételettes d'Agneau & la Durand), 


Pare eight lamb cutlets chosen from the covered sides of the rack; suppress the spinal bone and 
fibrous skin from the rib bones, flatten them slightly, season and sauté them in butter, turning them 
over when they are half done, and finish cooking them properly. Prepare some very thin pancakes 
(No. 3078), cut them into heart-shapes, having them slightly smaller than papers would be, as there 
is no necessity to plait them; push astring of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) through a pocket on 
the edges and on half the hearts only, put a little cooked fine herb sauce (No. 461), in the center, 
lay a cutlet over this, with some more of the sauce above; close and fasten the pancake hermet- 
ically together, and range them all on a buttered dish, set it in a slack oven for ten minutes, sprinkle 
butter over and serve on the same dish with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) poured around. 


(1675), LAMB CUTLETS A LA GAVARDI (Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Gavardi), 


Season eight fine lamb cutlets; range them in a sautoir lined with fragments of salt pork; 
roots and sliced onions; moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a) and cover with another 
piece of the pork; reduce the liquid slowly, remoisten once more, and finish to cook while glazing. 
Braise separately some rings of blanched carrot, and the same quantity of medium-sized onions each 
one weighing about an ounce, have also some braised lettuces (No. 2754), dress the cutlets ona 
dish in a circle, garnish the center with as many of the lettuces as there are cutlets and on enol 
cutlet lay one of the carrot rings with an onion in the center, glaze the whole with meat glaze (No. 
402). Reduce the braise stock after it has been strained and freed of fat, with a little espagnole 


(No. 414) and Marsala wine; serve this in a sauce-boat. 


550 THE PICU REAN: 


(1676), LAMB OUTLETS, GIRALDA (Cotelettes d’Agneau & la Giralda), 


First sauté ten fine cutlets, then set them under a weight and pare them when cold. Cut some 
sweet Spanish onions into three-sixteenth of an inch square pieces, blanch and cook them in butter, 
not allowing them to attain color, then add the same quantity of cooked sweet Spanish peppers. 
‘and thicken the whole with a well-seasoned and reduced velouté (No. 415), allow it to cool, mask 
the cutlets with this preparation, smooth nicely dome-shaped and cover over with a well-reduced 
allemande sauce (No. 407); bestrew grated parmesan over and brown in the oven. Pour asupreme. 
sauce (No. 547), finished with shrimp butter (No. 587) in the bottom of the dish, garnish the 
cutlet handles with frills (No. 10) and range them on top of the sauce. 


(1677). LAMB CUTLETS, LEVERRIER (Cotelettes d’Agneau ala Leverrier), 


Broil some well pared, first cut cutlets; have as many one and three-quarter inch diameter 
tin rounds with slightly raised edges; butter and decorate the bottoms with a star each point of 
which should be formed one half of tongue and the other half of truffle. Cover the cut- 
lets with a layer of forcemeat and place them in buttered bottomless cutlet- shaped molds, so: 
that the cutlet is enveloped in forcemeat and fills them up entirely; smooth well the surface and 
then turn over on the widest part, the star decorated tin round, so that the decoration is exactly 
on the kernel. Put them for a few moments into a moderate oven and after the forcemeat is. 
poached, lift off-both the tin round and the mold molding the chop. Pare some artichoke bottoms. 
two inches in diameter, season and fry them in butter, then dress them flat in a circle and lay a 
cutlet on top of each; trim the handles with frills (No. 10), pour a little half-glaze (No. 400) in the 
bottom of the dish and serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with orange juice and butter 
added at the last moment. 


(1678), LAMB OUTLETS A LA MAINTENON (Cételettes d’Agneau & la Maintenon), 


Trim, pare and season twelve lamb cutlets; sauté them over a brisk fire, having them rare, 
then drain, wipe and cover both sides with a well-reduced soubise sauce (No. 543), into which 
some cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley have been added; when cold dip in beaten 
eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a 
knife and sauté them in clarified butter; dress each cutlet on a peeled, halved and pressed out. 
tomato already fried in butter, and surround the whole with three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter balls of potatoes, blanched and fried in butter; a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to be served. 
in a sauce-boat. 


(1679), LAMB CUTLETS A LA MAISON D'OR (Gotelettes d’Agneau & la Maison d’Or), 


Trim some slices of bread cut three-sixteeriths of an inch in thickness, into half heart shapes; 
fry them in butter and when cold cover the surfaces with some foies-gras in terrine, rounding it 
on the tops and set them in the oven for one instant to heat only. Dress in a circle and place 
a cooked cutlet on each slice of bread and lay some minced truffles in the center, cover the whole 
with Madeira sauce (No. 492) and garnish the handles witha frill (No. 10), then serve. 


(1680), LAMB CUTLETS A LA MINUTE, WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUTED (Cotelettes d’Agneau 
Sautées a la Minute aux Champignons), 


Pare a dozen lamb cutlets; season, then cook over a brisk fire ina sautoir with clarified butter, 
turning them round when a fine color on one side; brown both sides alike and cook them till done, 
then drain off the butter and baste them witha little melted light meat glaze (No.402) and Madeira, 
reduce on a quick fire to dry the meat on both sides. Lay the cutlets on a dish, trim the 
handles with a frill (No.10) and dress them crown-shaped, have Madeira sauce (No. 492), add to it. 
some minced mushrooms, and pour the whole into the center of the crown or else in a croustade. 


(1681), LAMB CUTLETS, MURILLO (Cotelettes d’Agneau & la Murillo), 


Pare twelve lamb cutlets haying them both wide and thin; range them in a sautoir with hot: 
butter, laying them all one way; cook on one side only, then drain and cover this cooked side with 
slightly cold minced mushrooms reduced and thickened with some good béchamel (No. 409) finish- 
ing with a dash of cayenne pepper, smooth the surface of these mushrooms nicely, dredge over 
with grated parmesan, sprinkle with melted butter. Return the chops to the sautoir, and set 
it in the hot oven to finish cooking and brown. Dress them at once on separate plates with a 
little half-glaze (No. 400) on the bottom and hand them to the guests. 





LAMB. 


Or 
Or 
pe 


(1682). LAMB CUTLETS A LA NUBIAN (O6telettes d’Agneau 4 la Nubienne), 


. Cook and dress them the same as cutlets A la minute (No. 1680), garnish the center of the circle 
with minced truffles minced mushrooms, rounds of red beef tongue cut one inch across, and an 
eighth of an inch thick, the whole mingled with velouté sauce (No. 415) and essence of mushrooms 
(No. 392). Place around the edge of the dish a few ball-shaped rice croquettes an inch anda 
quarter in diameter and serve the whole very hot. 


(1683), LAMB OUTLETS A LA PERIGUEUX (Ostelettes @Agneau & la Périgueux), 


Prepare one pound of chopped forcemeat (No. 65), season highly and add four ounces of finely 
chopped truffles. Pare twelve lamb cutlets, keeping the end bones quite short and only leaving 
the kernel meat on; beat them down thin, then lay in a sautoir with hot butter, simply to stiffen 
the meat, remove at once on a baking sheet; cover with a buttered paper and let get partially cold 
under the pressure of a weight, or in the press (Fig. 71), afterward covering both sides of the meat 
with a layer of the above forcemeat; enclose them separately in square pieces of pork ‘‘crepinette ” 
or kall fat, broil nicely over a slow fire and dress on a very hot dish, pouring a little clear gravy 
(No. 404) into the bottom of it. Serve with a sauce-boat of Périgueux sauce (No. 517), to which 
is mixed some pearl chicken forcemeat quenelles (No. 154). 


(1684), LAMB CUTLETS A LA POMPADOUR (Cételettes d’Agneau & la Pompadour). 


Prepare this dish with twelve fine well pared lamb cutlets seasoned with salt and pepper, then 
fried in butter; set them under a weight, wipe dry and cover both sides with a thoroughly reduced 
cold soubise (No. 723); dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, then fry again slowly in clari- 
fied butter and dress on a garnishing composed of flageolet beans, quarter inch balls of carrcts 
and turnips. The whole mingled with Pompadour sauce (No. 525). 


(1685), LAMB OUTLETS ALA ROBINSON Cételettes d’Agneau & la Robinson), 


Season eight fine cutlets with salt and pepper, then fry them in butter. Apart from this cut 
up some chicken livers into three-eighths of an inch squares, cook them briskly in butter for a few 
minutes, and dress the chops in a circle, garnish the handles with frills (No. 10) and lay the drained 
livers in the center; pour over a Madeira half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with fine herbs. 


(1686), LAMB OUTLETS A LA SIGNORA (Gotelettes d'Agneau & la Signora), 


Pare twelve lamb cutlets leaving on only the kernel and the bone; spilt them in two through 
their thickness, season and stuff each one with a slice of truffle an eighth of an inch thick; substitute 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) for the fat that has been removed so as to give the chop its original 
shape. Dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a 
knife, then fry the cutlets in clarified butter (No. 16); drain and place paper frills (No. 10) on 
the handles. Dress in a circle and pour into the center a well buttered supreme sauce (No. 547) 
into which chopped truffles have been added. 


(1687), LAMB OUTLETS A LA TALMA (C6telettes d’Agneau & la Talma), 


Fry twelve lamb cutlets, keeping them quite rare; lay them under a light weight or in the 
press (No. 71) and when partly cold, pare and dip them in a rather thick, nearly cold béchamel 
sauce (No. 409); range them on a sheet of buttered paper and on every cutlet place a slice of foies- 
gras, cover this over with more béchamel and when partly cold, dredge over with bread-crumbs 
and trim well the cutlets, removing the excess of sauce, strew with a little parmesan cheese, 
pour on a little butter and brown to a fine golden color in the oven, trim the handles with a frill 
(No. 10) and dress ina circle filling the center with minced fresh mushrooms mingled with 
supreme sauce (No. 547) and lay around thin round slices of truffle pouring a little half-glaze sauce 
(No. 413) over these, and serve. 


(1688). LAMB OUTLETS A LA TURENNE (O6telettes d’Agneau & la Turenno), 


Pare a dozen nice cutlets taken from the covered ribs of the racks and suppress the 
spinal bone and fibrous skin from the ribs; make a gasb across the middle of the kernel and fill it 
up with a cooked fine herb preparation (No. 385), mingled with a little half-glaze (No. 400) and 
thickened with egg-yolks. Bread-crumb and fry them in butter, trim the handles with a frill 
(No. 10), dress the cutlets crown-shaped and cover with a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into 
which has been added some mushrooms and stuffed olives (No. 695). 


THE EPICUREAN. 


Ce 
Ct 
29 


(1689), LAMB CUTLETS A LA VICTOR HUGO (Cételettes d'Agneau & la Victor Hugo). 


Season the cutlets with salt and pepper, coat them over with oil and broil nicely till done; cover 
each one with well-buttered and consistent béarnaise sauce (No. 483), into which has been added some 
grated fresh and very white horseradish, lay on every cutlet a round slice of truffle warmed in a 
little meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira wine, dress the cutlets in a circle, pour a little half-glaze 
sauce (No. 418) around the cutlets; trim the handles with a frill (No. 10) and serve. 


(1690), LAMB CUTLETS BREADED, SAUTED AND BROILED (Cételettes d’Agneau Panées 
Sautées ou Grillées), 


Sautéd.—Pare ten lamb cutlets into good shape, flatten, season and dip them in beaten eggs to 
roll after in bread-crumbs; smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife and then put them ina 
sautoir with hot purified butter (No. 16), cook on both sides turning them over only once, drain 
and trim with fancy frills (No. 10), dress on a very hot dish and serve. 

Broiled.—Bread-crumb the cutlets the same as. when sautéing them; eight minutes before serv- 
ing, roll them in melted butter, broil over a slow fire turning them on both sides; take them off when 
done and lay them on a plate, trim with fancy frills, then dress them in a circle on a very hot dish 
pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom. 


(1691), LAMB OUTLETS IN CREPINETTE (O6telettes d’Agneau en Orépinette), 


Prepare twelve rather thick but well-trimmed lamb cutlets, leaving the kernel only, and sup- 
pressing all the fat and sinews; chop the meats without cutting through, then season with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg. Make a forcemeat with half a pound of chopped fat pork, half a pound of 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and two ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; mix thoroughly and lay it on 
both sides of the cutlets; wrap each one separately in a square piece of ‘‘ crépinette” or caul fat 
well fattened; butter them over with a brush dipped in butter, and broil for twenty-five minutes 
on a slow fire, turning them round when Gone on one side; then lay them on a small baking tin; 
trim the handles with frills (No. 10); dress in a circle on a dish, adding some reduced clear gravy 
{No. 404.) 


(1692). LAMB CUTLETS IN PAPERS (Cotelettes d’Agneau en Papillotes), 


Lamb cutlets from their peculiar tenderness and delicacy are well adapted to be prepared in 
papers. Trim eight spring lamb cutlets pared most carefully and keeping them as wide as possible; 
season and fry in a sautoir with some melted fat pork, turning them over while cooking; let them 
remain quite rare; remove the cutlets leaving the pork in the pan and to it add finely chopped onions, 




















Fia. 347, 


shallots, mushrooms, and truffles; after these have rendered their moisture take them out and mix 
in with some chopped parsley, and lean, cooked, and finely shredded ham combined with two 
spoonfuls of baking forcemeat (No. 81). Divide this preparation into as many parts as there are 
cutlets aud cover each one with a layer of it, cut some sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, oil 
over on one-half the right side, pour a little sauce, with a cutlet on top, then a little more of the 
sauce and fold over the paper; plait the two edges together in such a way as to enclose the meat 
completely, then lay them on a buttered dish that can stand the heat of the oven, and on which 
they are to be served; set it in the oven, and when they have acquired a fine color serve; or they 
may be broiled over a very slow fire in their papers and then dressed on a very hot dish. 


(1693), LAMB CUTLETS WITH STRING BEANS (Cételettes d’Agneau aux Haricots Verts). 


Pare the breast bones four inches long, cut off the neck to the third rib, saw off the spinal 
Sone without spoiling the fillets as far as the rib, then cut from each rack five, six, or seven chops 
according to the thickness of the meat and the purpose they are intended for. Remove the meat 
from the end bones of each chop an inch deep, and flatten the meat lightly; suppress the fibrous 





LAMB. 553 


skin adhering to the kernel, also the one attached to the bone; season with salt, and dip in melted 
butter; roll them in fresh bread-crumbs, then broil over a brisk fire, turning them only once dur- 
ing the operation. Trim the handles with frills (No. 10), dress and garnish with sautéd string 
beans (No. 2829), pour around some clear gravy (No. 404) having had a blanched and chopped 
shallot boiled in with it and serve. 


(1694), EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB A LA TOULOUSE (Epigrammes d'Agneau & la Toulouse), 


Saw off the breasts from two racks of lamb, remove the bone covering the gristle and put the 
breasts in a saucepan lined with fat pork, carrots, onions and a garnished bouquet (No. 123); cook 
them just long enough to be able to remove the bones easily, and when this is done drain and range 
on a baking sheet and set a weight on top. From each rack make five covered cutlets, pare them 
nicely, season and fry to a fine color, dress and detach the stock from the pan with a little clear 
gravy (No. 404), with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 418). Pare the breasts into half hearts and 
when very cold round the angles and insert a bone into each pointed end of the meat; return these 
to the sautoir, and pour over the stock reduced to a half-glaze. Range the cutlets and breasts alter- 
nately or else in straight rows, one of cutlets and one of breasts, or if in a round have one half 
breasts and the other half cutlets; garnish the center with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766) either 
laid in the center or else in a croustade, or should the epigrammes be dressed in a straight row, 
then place it around. Serve separately the stock strained through a sieve. A cutlet may be set 
on top a piece of breast which will serve as a crotiton, and dress them crown-shaped with the 
garnishing in the center. 


(1695), EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB, ANCIENT STYLE (Epigrammes d’'Agneau a l’Ancienne), 


Braise two breasts of lamb (No. 1694); drain and take out the bones reserving them 
to use later for imitating handles; let the meat get cold under a weight to reduce to half an 
inch, then pare nicely by suppressing the skin and cutting them up into half heart-shapes, 
season with salt and pepper and cover over entirely with Duxelle sauce (No. 461). When cold 
bread-crumb them in eggs. Scrape the reserve bones, sharpen one end and insert one in 
each half heart. For eight pieces of breast have eight covered cutlets, pare them nicely, season 
and broil or fry, then glaze them over with a brush. Brown the breasts in a sautoir with very 
hot clarified butter, when done drain and decorate the handles with frills (No. 10), also those of 
the cutlets and dress them in a circle, intercalating the breasts with the cutlets. Reduce some 
white wine velouté (No. 415) with mushroom broth and add to ita garnishing of quenelles and 
mushrooms; range this garnishing in the middle of the circle and decorate around with small glazed 


Jamb’s sweebreads. 


(1696). LAMB FRIES, CREAM HORSERADISH OR TOMATO SAUCE (Animelles d’'Agneau 4 la Sauce 
Raifort &4 la Créme ou & la Sauce Tomate), 


Skin and then cut them up either in two or four, according to their size; lay them in a vessel 
to season with salt, pepper, oil and lemon-juice, and leave to marinate for one hour; roll them in 
flour, immerse in beaten eggs and roll again in bread-crumbs, then fry them to afine golden color and 
drain. Dress them on a napkin in a pyramid; garnish the top with a bunch of fried parsley, and 
around with quartered lemon. Serve separately either a cream horseradish sauce (No. 478) or a 


tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(1697), LAMB HASLETS MARINATED (Fraissure d’Agneau & la Marinade). 


Blanch the lights, drain and cut them up into inch and a half squares; melt some chopped fat 
pork in a saucepan and when very hot lay in the lights and fry them for a few minutes over a very 
brisk fire; add the heart cut into eight pieces and the liver in inch and a quarter pieces; season 
with salt, pepper, mignonette and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, sprinkle 
over with flour, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) and half white wine; let the whole cook 
till done to three-quarters, then lay in sixty small fried onions and a pound of small mushrooms; 
as soon as these are cooked, suppress the parsley, season nicely and notice whether the sauce is 
not too thin; when right, dress, pour the liquid over and garnish around with crofitons fried in 


butter. 


554 THE EPICUREAN. 


Another Way.—This dish may also be made by pfing the haslets cut up in an earthen crock 
with minced carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, sprigs of parsley, salt pepper, mace, vinegar and 
oil and allowing it to marinate for twelve hours, being careful to turn the meat several times so 
that it all reaches the marinade; drain and fry in butter, besprinkle over with flour, moisten with 
white or red wine and stock (No. 194a) season and boil slowly till thoroughly cooked, then serve. 


(1698), LAMB HEAD, GENOISE OR VINAIGRETTE SAUCE (Téte d’Agneau Sauce Génoise ou 
Vinaigrette), 


Bone the head as far as the eye, remove both the lower and upper jaw and the eyes, leaving on 
the crown only with the brain; steep and blanch the head for fifteen minutes, then refresh, wipe, 
singe and tie it up. Dilute some flour in cold water, adding to it some salt, pepper, onions, carrots, 
a garnished bouquet and vinegar; boil the head in this for two hours, then drain and untie it and 
dress on a napkin with. parsley ranged around. Serve separately a well-buttered and acidulated 
génoise sauce (No. 470) or else a vinaigrette sauce (No. 634). 


(1699), LAMB KIDNEYS A LA LULLY (Rognons d’Agneau a la Lully), 


Cut eight skinned kidneys lengthwise; fry them in butter over a hot fire, season and 
add some finely chopped blanched shallots fried in butter, some minced mushrooms, chopped pars- 
ley and lemon juice. Just when prepared to serve, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dress the kidneys 
and pour the sauce over, garnishing around with small one inch in diameter potato croquettes (No. 
2782) and then serve. 


(1700). BROCHETTES OF LAMB KIDNEYS (Brochettesde Rognons d’Agneau), 


Peel off the thin skin covering the kidneys, cut them across into three-sixteenth of an inch 
slices, season with salt and pepper, and baste with sweet oil. Thread these on skewers alter- 
nating each piece with a bit of bacon one inch square and an eighth of an inch thick; dip the whole 
into oil and roll in fresh bread-crumbs, broil them over a slow fire, dress and sprinkle with maitre 
d’hotel butter (No. 581). 


(1701), LAMB KIDNEYS, FLEMISH STYLE (Rognons d’Agneau ala Flamande), 


Fry colorless in butter one tablespoonful of chopped onions, one small chopped shallot, one 
whole clove of garlic, half a pound of fresh cut up mushrooms, salt, pepper, and cayenne; moisten 
with a gill of Madeira wine adding a little melted meat glaze (No. 402), some cream and a small 
piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); when ready remove the garlic. Skin eight lambs’ kidneys, 
split each one lengthwise in two and fry them in butter; season as soon as they evaporate their 
moisture and are cooked; dress and pour the above sauce over. . 


(1702), LAMB KIDNEYS, GLAZED (Rognons d’Agneau Glacés), 


Peel the skin from twelve kidneys, split each one into two parts; put a piece of butter in a 
pan with a tablespoonful of chopped shallot, fry without browning then add the kidneys; season 
with salt and pepper and as soon as they are well sized besprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of 
melted glaze (No. 402); roll them in this off the fire and bestrew with chopped parsley, finishing 


with the juice of a lemon; dress on a very hot dish and surround with fried crofitons glazed over 


with a brush. 


(1703), LAMB KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS (Rognons d’Agneau en Brochettes), 


Split open the kidneys on the round side three-quarters through without separating the parts; 
run skewers through, having two kidneys to each metal skewer (Fig. 341); season with salt and 
pepper and cover over with oil, broil them first on the open side and when sufficiently done, turn 
them over on the other; dress them the open side uppermost, and lay on every kidney a little. 
maitre d’hétel butter (No. 582). Squeeze a little lemon juice over and serve very hot. 


(1704), STEWED LAMB KIDNEYS WITH MADEIRA AND WITH MUSHROOMS (Rognons 
d'Agneau Sautés au Madare et aux Champignons), 
To obtain fine stewed kidneys it must be perfectly well understood that they should be sautéd’ 
over a quick fire in order to seize them rapidly and ought never to be allowed to boil or cook in their 
sauce. Suppress the skin from eight fresh lambs’ kidneys; mince them up, removing all the hard 





LAMB. asta 


parts. Heat some butter in a pan and when hot, put in the kidneys and fry them over a brisk fire; 
season with salt and pepper, and when the meats are sized without being dry, take them out with 
a skimmer, leaving the liquid in the pan. Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a 
sautoir, pour into it the reduced kidney gravy, and let the whole cook with a little half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413), and half a gill of Madeira wine, strain and skim the fat from the sauce, and pour 
it over the kidneys, heat them without boiling, and finish the stew with lemon juice and chopped 
parsley. 


With Mushrooms.—Instead of using Madeira, reduce the sauce with mushroom essence 
(No. 392), and add some sliced mushrooms. , 


(1705), LEG OF LAMB A LA BERCY (Gigot d’Agneau a la Bercy), 


Remove the thick loin and bone froma leg of yearling lamb and saw off the knuckle, 
remove about five inches of the meat to form a handle. Line a saucepan with fragments of fat. 
pork, raw suet, roots, minced onions, and aromatics; layin the meat. salt it over, and place on 
the fire for a few moments, turning it round; moisten to its height with light broth (No. 194a), and. 
let boil; continue the boiling process while skimming well the surface, then close the saucepan 
and remove it back to a slower fire in order that it continue to cook but much more moderately; 
it will take from three to four hours, and the liquid should then be reduced to two-thirds; drain 
the leg, lay it in a small, deep, narrow baking pan, also its strained and skimmed stock reduced to. 
a half-glaze (No. 400) with Madeira and gravy (No. 404); put it in the oven to become a fine color 
while basting frequently with its own stock, then strain this off, remove all its fat and reduce;. 
pour a third of it over the dressed leg, garnish it with a frill (No. 10), and serve separately a borde- 
laise sauce (No. 436), stirred into the remainder of the stock. 


(1706), LEG OF LAMB A LA BRITANNIA, OR GREEN SAUCE OR CAPER SAUCE (Gigot d’Agneau. 
& la Britannia ou Sauce Verte ou Sauce aux Capres), 


Pare nicely a leg of yearling lamb, cut off the knuckle bone at the handle, remove about two. 
inches of the meat from this to make a handle, scraping the bone clean, weigh the meat and 
plunge it into boiling water; let it boil for fifteen minutes for each pound and add to it salt, pepper 
a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, clove of garlic, two cut carrots and four onions. 
After the leg is done, dress on a long dish, and trim it with a paper frill (No. 10), glaze the meat. 
Serve separately a well buttered espagnole sauce (No. 414), into which add lemon juice, mig- 
nonette and chopped parsley; garnish around with cauliflower boiled in salted water. 

With Green Sauce.—Prepare it exactly the same as for the above, and when the leg is dressed 
serve without garnishing and with a green sauce (No. 473) served separately. 

With Caper Sauce.—Prepare, cook and dress it as for the above; serve separately a caper sauce: 
(No. 441). 


(1707). LEG OF LAMB A LA FEARING, KERNEL (Noix de Gigot d’Agneau & la Fearing), 


Lift the kernel from a leg of yearling lamb, pare it exactly the same as a kernel of veal and. 
then fry it in clarifled butter, drain this off and moisten with Madeira wine and some veal blond stock: 
(No. 423), putting in very little at the time, only adding it as fast as it becomes reduced. Dress, 
strain the gravy, and reduce it with brown sauce (No, 414) and Madeira. For the garnishing 
have medium-sized whole truffles, cooked fresh mushrooms, cocks’-combs and kidneys, all being 
cooked separately. Dress these in separate and distinct clusters, and cover them all with part of 


the sauce, serving the rest of it in a sauce-bowl. 


(1708). LEG OF LAMB, A LA GUYANE Gigot d'Agneau & la Guyane). 


Bone a leg of yearling lamb reserving the bone for the handle; fill the hollow space with a dress- 
ing made of fresh pork, bacon, cooked ham, chopped mushrooms and soaked and pressed out bread- 
crumbs, adding to it eggs and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Sew up the leg and then brown 
itin some fat pork; wet it with white wine and put in with it some roots, carrots, turnips, celery and 
onions; season, boil, skim and continue the boiling for three to four hours, then strain ihe stock, 
free it of its fat and keep back half of it, reduce the other half with espagnole sauce (No. 414) 
and a little tomato purée (No. 730) with adash of cayenne added. Dress the leg, pare the handle: 
nicely and range an Indian risot (No. 787) around; cover with the stock after it has been welk 
reduced and place a paper frill (No. 10) on the handle bone. Pour the prepared sauce in a sauce~ 


bow! and serve it at the same time. 


556 THE EPICUREAN 


(1709), LEG OF LAMB, KING'S PILAU (Gigot d’'Agneau Pilaw du Roi), 


Have one pound of boned leg of lamb; pare off all the fat and sinews and then divide it.into 
three-quarters of an inch pieces; have also a quarter of a pound of three-eighth inch dice of raw 
ham, fry all these in butter over a bright fire with a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moisten 
with half a pint of stock (No. 194a), season and reduce to a glaze, then remoisten once more with 
another half pint and so on until the pilau is done and very rich; season with a dash of cayenne 


pepper and salt. Fry colorless a chopped onion in butter, add to it a quarter of a pound of washed _ 


and dried rice; when this is quite hot, wet it with twice its volume of the stock from the pilau and 
stock (No. 194a), cover, bring to a boil and place it in the oven for twenty minutes and as soon 
as done, add butter and parmesan. Fill a border mold (Fig. 139) with this, unmold on a dish, 
remove the bunch of parsley from the pilau and pour it into the center of the border, cover over 
with a layer of the same rice; reserved for the purpose, smooth it neatly with a knife, strew par- 
mesan cheese on top, besprinkle with butter and brown in a hot oven. 


(1710), SLICES OF LEG OF LAMB A LA DORDOGNE (Tranches de Gigot d'Agneau a la 
Dordogne), 


These are slices of meat cut from a leg of raw spring lamb, free of all fat and sinews and should 
be three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; season and cover them all with a chicken or forcemeat 
into which as much fine cooked herbs (No. 385) have been mixed; roll them up into cylinder shapes, 
run on small metal skewers (Fig. 176), then dip in melted butter and bread-crumbs; broil them over 
a slow fire till done, dress and pour over a half-glaze sauce (No. 418) buttered at the last moment 
with maitre d’hdtel butter (No. 581). 


(1711, SLICES OF LEG OF LAMB A LA PREVILLOT (Tranches de Gigot d’Agneau & la 
Prévillot), 

Cut some three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices from the kernel of a raw leg of lamb, pare 
them into rounds, two inches in diameter, season with salt and fry in clarified 
butter. Fry colorless in butter, one ounce of onions cut in three-sixteenth inch 
squares, half a pound of mushrooms in quarter inch pieces, some peeled egg-plant 
cut in three-eighth inch squares and a little piece of garlic; moisten with clear 
gravy (No. 404) and half-glaze (No. 400) and reduce, then pour it into a dish, 
bestrew with chopped parsley and lay the slices of lamb over. 





(1712), BLANQUETTE OF LEG OF LAMB (Blanquette de Gigot d’Agneau), 


Take some cold leg of lamb, suppress from it all the fat and sinews, remove the skin and cut 
the meat into quarter-inch thick slices; pare them rounded and range the pieces in a sautoir, 
add to it some velouté sauce (No. 415) finished with a little mushroom liquor—enough to cover the 
meat—stir in salt, mignonette and leave the stew on the fire for a few moments before serving, but 
it must not be allowed to boil. Dress the blanquette either in a circle or a straight row, and 
thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks diluted in a little milk, fresh butter, vinegar or lemon juice; 
strain the sauce through a tammy and add to it some minced mushrooms, heat without boiling, 
pour it over the meat and garnish around with bread crofitons fried in butter. 


(1713), LAMB OR MUTTON STEAK PLAIN, MAITRE D’HOTEL (Steak d’Agneau ou de Mouton 
Nature, Maitre d’Hotel). 


The steak is a slice either of lamb or mutton cut through the entire thickness of the leg; for 
this a two-pronged steel 
fork is used (Fig. 349) 
thrust intoa hole bored for 
the purpose in the butcher’s 
table, having it the same diameter as the handle of the fork; the leg 
is placed on the fork in such a way that the shank bone passes SS 
between the two prongs, then cut off slices from five to six- eighths of ‘Fig. 350. 

an inch thick; saw through the bone the same thickness as the meat. 

The fork is for the purpose of upholding the bone so that it can be sawed through more easily. 
Season the steak with salt, coat it over with oil and broil, serve on a very hot dish either plain 
or with a maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581). 














7 
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LAMB. 55 


(1714), LEG OF LAMB WITH CARROTS Gigot @Agneau aux Carottes), 


Prepare the leg exactly the same as for gravy (No. 1715), only serve at the same time, but sep- 
arately a garnishing of carrots made by parboiling about two pounds of new carrots cut into pear 
shapes and then cook them in a little stock (No. 194a) with salt and sugar added; finish cooking 
them very slowly, tossing at times to have them all done alike, then thicken with four raw a 
yolks diluted with a gill of cream and a little fine butter; add some chopped parsley and serve wih 
a thickened gravy (No. 405) in a separate sauce-boat the same time as the leg. 


(1715), LEG OF YEARLING LAMB WITH GRAVY ROASTED Gigot d'Agneau Tardif Roti au jus). 


Pare and beat a leg of yearling lamb to soften it, then run the spit skewer through to bring it 
out at the kernel without injuring the meat, allowing it to follow the course of the bone. Tie the 
bone tightly to the spit, place a long skewer over it and fasten firmly at each end. It will take from 
an hour to an hour and a quarter to cook. When done, dress and trim the handle with a frill, 
(No.10) and serve the dripping pan gravy at the same time as the meat, stirring into it a little clear 
gravy (No. 404); skim the fat from the top and pass it through a fine sieve. 


To Roast tn the Oven.—Lay the leg in a baking pan, besmear it with good fat and cook it for 
one hour to an hour and a quarter according to its size. It will take a few moments longer to 
roast it in the oven than on the spit. 


(1716). LEG OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF ONIONS WITH CREAM (Gigot d’Agneau & la Purée 
d’Oignons & la Créme), 


Cut off the end of the shank bone of a leg of lamb; pare the leg to shape and remove the 
superfluous fat; roast it on the spit or else in a baking pan in a moderate oven, pouring over some 
melted fat, and basting it frequently; salt it over fifteen minutes before serving. Dress and trim 
the handle bone with a paper frill (No.10), and serve separately a purée of onions with cream pre- 
pared as follows: Mince two pounds of white onions, plunge them into boiling, salted water and let 
cook for five minutes, then drain very dry, and place them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter; 
cook the onions colorless, season and stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour; wet with cream in such a. 
manner as to keep the mixture consistent, then set it into a slack oven, and when the onions have 
finished cooking, rub them through asieve. Pour the purée back into the saucepan, mix well, 
heat and serve. 


(1717), LOIN OF YEARLING LAMB, GERMAN STYLE (Longe d’Agneau Tardif a |’Allemande) 


Take a loin of yearling lamb, or the part beginning from the top of the leg and 
extending as far as the first rib on the rack; remove the aitchbone without injuring the minion 
fillet, pare carefully the fat from the interior, and remove the tough skin from the sirloin, season. 
With pepper, salt and nutmeg. Roll this loin up, tie it firmly and then braise it in a mirepoix 
stock (No. 419) with a little brandy added. It will take two hours and a half to three hours to. 
cook; drain, untie and set it under a light weight or under the press (No. 71) and when cold cut 
the meat into half heart-shaped slices and dress them in a circle on a baking dish, cover over with, 
an allemande sauce (No. 407), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese, 
pour butter over and set the dish in a moderate oven. When it has attained a fine color, withdraw 
from the oven and drain off the butter, garnish the center with minced truffles and mushrooms. 


mixed with some lighter allemande sauce (No. 407). 


(1718), LOIN OF LAMB WITH SAUTED TOMATOES (Longe d'Agneau aux Tomates Sautées), 


Proceed exactly as for German style (No. 1717), and when cold and the slices are pared heart- 
shaped, cover each piece with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a nice: 
color; dress in a circle and fill the inside empty space with split and peeled tomatoes that have 
been pressed and fried in butter with shallots and seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. 
_ Serve a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze (No. 400) separately. 


(1719), MINCED LAMB A LA RIVERA (Emincé d’Agneau & la Rivera), 


Minces are generally made with cooked meats; cut quarter inch thick slices from the kernel 


part of a cold roast leg of lamb, pare them into rounds two and a half inches in diameter, range 
them in a sautoir pouring over a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), clear gravy (No. 404), 


338 THE EPICUREAN. 


and port wine, heating it all without boiling. Cut some sour apples into quarters, peel and — 
remove the cores and seeds; lay them in a sautoir, besprinkle with sugar and cook them in a slack 
oven till done. Dress the minced meat in a circle with the apples in the center, and pour the port 
wine sauce over. 


(1720), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB A LA BENOIST (Filets Mignons d’Agneau & la Benoist), 


Pare the minion fillets, suppressing all fat and sinews; cut the meats transversely into small 
slices, flatten, pare them into rounds, and when ready season with salt; sauté them in 
half butter and half oil, drain on a plate, and glaze over with a brush. Lay each piece of meat 
on a thin crust of bread cut the same size as the noisettes, and on top of every one place a slice of 
cooked foies-gras cut also the same dimension; cover the whole quickly with a pretty thick white 
wine sauce (No. 492), in which grated parmesan has been added; bestrew with grated parmesan, 
and glaze the surface under a gas salamander (Fig. 123) or a very hot oven. Dress on a hot dish 
and set a fine slice of truffle on each; serve immediately. 


(1721), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB A LA LANDGRAVE (Filets Mignons d’Agneau a la 
Landgrave), 


Remove all the sinews from one or more minion fillets; season with salt, sweet oil, and 
lemon juice, then fry them in butter, and dress on slices of bread cut one and a quarter inches 
across by five inches long. Pour over a velouté sauce (No. 415) or allemande sauce (No. 407), 
having it well buttered and seasoned with Worcestershire sauce, and either mignonette or 
cayenne pepper. 


(1722), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB A LA LEFORT (Filets Mignons d’Agneau & la Lefort), 


Prepare the meats as for the Benoist (No. 1720), lay them on a dish, pour over a cold cooked 
marinade (No. 114) and let macerate for one hour, then drain and wipe. Roll them in oil to broil 
over a brisk fire turning them, and when done lay on a hot dish over slices of bread trimmed to 
the same shape and size as the noisettes and three-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, fried in 
clarified butter and glazed over. Set into a sauce-pan half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549) and 
half a pint of gravy (No. 404), some branches of parsley, thyme, bay leaf and garlic; reduce this to 
a third, then strain and return it to the saucepan; at the very first boil take it from the fire and 
stir in two ounces of minced cépes; pour this over the minion fillets. 


(1723), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB AS VENISON (Filets Mignons d'Agneau en Chevreuil), 


Pare six or eight yearling lamb fillets or else those of a young sheep, by suppressing all the 
fat and skin; cut them up through their length and on the bias, then beat the pieces and trim 
them into half hearts; lard with fine lardons (No. 1, Fig 52), and lay them -in a deep china dish . 
to cover with cooked and cold marinade (No. ‘114); macerate in this for a few hours, then drain 
and range them on the bottom of a sautoir into which put half butter and half oil; sauté them 
briskly and when done drain; glaze the surfaces and keep them for a few moments at the oven 
door. Dress on half heart-shaped bread crofitons fried in butter and arranged in a circle on a dish; 
pour over a poivrade sauce (No. 522). 


(1724), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB CREAM SAUCE (Filets Mignons d’Agneau Sauce & la Créme), 


Raise the minion fillets from three or four saddles of lamb, free them of their fat and sinews, 
pare and lard with small lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), lay them in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, 
thyme, bay leaf, minced onions and nutmeg, let marinate for twelve hours turning them about 
occasionally, then drain and wipe dry. Fry these meats in some good hot fat, and when done 
drain it all off and detach the glaze with some fresh cream thickening with a little well buttered 
béchamel (No. 409). Dress in a circle and pour the sauce over. 


(1725), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB IN SURPRISE (Filets Mignons d’Agneau en Surpnse), 


Pare and suppress all the fat from some lamb minion fillets, trim them into half hearts and 
make an incision on one side and flat across the thickness and almost through the entire width, 
but without separating the parts. Fry in butter a chopped shallot and four ounces of finely 
chopped truffles; moisten with four tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine, reduce this to a mere: nothing, 





LAMB. 559 


then stir in two spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 402) and a thick- 
ening of two raw egg-yolks; fill the incisions with this mixture, egg and bread crumb the meats 
and fry them in clarified butter. Pour a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with Madeira over after dress- 
ing them in a circle. 


(1726), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB PRINTANIERE (Filets Mignons d’Agneau Printaniére), 


Remove the fillets from a saddle of lamb, free them from sinews and fat. Make sufficient 
amb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) to fill a border mold indented slightly on the top (Fig. 139), 
buttered and decorated with truffles; then fill with the forcemeat and lay it in a saucepan with 
boiling water to reach to half its heighth, place in a slack oven till firm to the touch. Out up 
the meat into bias slices, each one weighing about four ounces when pared; salt and fry them in 
butter over a brisk fire, when done, take them out, wipe and roll in a sautoir with a very little hot 
meat glaze (No. 402), then dress them at once crown-shaped on the border of poached forcemeat, 
fill in the center with a garnishing of spring vegetables and pour a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) 
to which is added some tomato sauce (No. 549) on the dish and serve some separately. 


(1727), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB WITH SHALLOT SAUCE AND MARROW, ROASTED AND 
LARDED (Filets Mignons Pigués et Rotis 4 la Sauce Echalote et Moelle), 


Lift some minion fillets and suppress from them all the fat and sinews, then lard them with 
very fine lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), lay them in a baking pan, salt over and baste with drippings, then 
roast them in a very hot oven. Eight or ten minutes should suffice to have them done properly, 
dress on oblong slices of toast and cover with some clear gravy (No, 404) and serve separately a 
shallot sauce with marrow. 

Shallot Sauce with Marrow.—Place in a saucepan one ounce of butter with two shallots, cut 
in one-eighth of an inch squares as much meat glaze (No. 402) as butter, salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and chopped parsley, place on the fire for two minutes, then add some marrow, cut in quarter inch 
squares and previously blanched by dipping in boiling water. 


(1728), MINION FILLETS OF LAMB WITH TRUFFLES—SAUTED (Filets Mignons d’Agneau 
Sautés aux Truffes), 


Suppress the fat and trim neatly two lamb fillets half heart-shape, cut incisicns on one side to 
a third of their depth and season with salt, nutmeg and pepper, stuff with cooked fine herbs 
(No. 385), and close the opening with a little lamb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92); fry them quickly 
in butter and when they are stiffened drain off the fat and replace it by a tablespoonful of melted 
meat glaze (No. 402); roll the fillets in this, dress them on a dish and put a little espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) in with the glaze remaining in the pan, let this cook and reduce, then add a piece of 
butter and some lemon juice to the sauce. Pour over the fillets range around slices of truffles 
that have been moistened with Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(1729), NECK OF LAMB WITH CABBAGE (Oollet d’Agneau aux Choux). 

Cut the neck a little long on the rib side; leave four rib bones on it; bone it all thoroughly, 
remove the sinewy and fat parts, then season with salt and pepper, stuff with lamb forcemeat made 
of cold finely chopped lamb, an equal quantity of soaked and pressed out bread-crumbs, fried, chop- 
ped onions, minced cooked mushrooms, chopped parsley, chopped up cooked ham and raw eggs. 
Fill the neck with this, sew up the meat so as to enclose well the stuffing and braise it in a very 
little stock (No.194a) for three hours; remove the threads, glaze, dress and surround with cabbage. 
Strain the stock, add to it a little brown sauce (No. 414), bring it to a boil, skim off the fat care- 
fully and when reduced serve in a sauce-boat. 


(1730), NOISETTES OF SHOULDER OF LAMB, EPICUREAN (Noisettes d'Epaule d’Agneau 
Epicurienne). 


These noisettes or glands are found in the fatty part of the shoulder near the shoulder blade; 
remove all the skin which envelops them. Fill the bottom of a flat saucepan with thin slices 
of fat pork, lay the noisettes on top, and moisten with a mirepoix stock (No. 419); cover 
over with more slices of the pork, and let cook in a slow oven from three-quarters to one hour 


560 THE EHPICUREAN. 


according to their size. When the noisettes are done, strain the stock through a fine tammy and 
skim well the fat. Decorate a low border mold (Fig. 139) with fanciful cuts of truffles, fill it with 
chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and poach in a bain-marie, the same asa timbale; then 
unmold it on a dish and garnish the interior of the border with mushrooms stewed and moistened 
with reduced cream and a little béchamel (No. 409). Range on top the noisettes from which the 
fat has been removed and then glazed in their own stock after it has been thoroughly reduced. 


(1731), FORE QUARTER OF LAMB WITH STUFFED TOMATOES—ON THE SPIT (Quartier de 


Devant d’Agneau & la Broche aux Tomates Farcies), 


Detach the shoulder from the rack on the covered rib side and leave the neck side without 
removing it; bone the shoulder, leaving only the end bone, and pass a skewer through the shoulder 
and the breast; adjust or lay it on the spit, fastening the two ends with a strong string; run a 
skewer through the meat near the shoulder, having it run through the hole in the spit to pre- 
vent the meat from slipping while cooking. Cook in front of a brisk fire basting frequently; it. 
will take from thirty to forty-five minutes; when nearly done, salt it over. Dress the meat on a 
very hot dish and serve clear gravy (No. 404) separately; garnish the end bone with a frill (No. 10), 
and set around baked stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842). 


(1732), HIND QUARTER OF LAMB WITH MINT SAUCE OR COLBERT SAUCE (Quartier de Renae 
d’Agneau & la Sauce Menthe ou & la Sauce Colbert), 


Pare very carefully a good hind quarter of lamb; suppress and pare the end bone or handle 
bone after sawing it two inches below the joint of the leg; cut away the meat two inches down, 
then scrape the bone clean; now lay the quarter in a baking-pan (Fig. 186), salt it evenly, and baste 
with dripping fat; set it in a moderate oven and let cook for three-quarters to one hour. Dress 
on along hot dish, trim the handle with a frill (No. 10), pour a little of its gravy over, and serve 
with a separate mint sauce (No. 616) or Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(1733), RACK OF LAMB, CASTILLANE SAUCE—BROILED (Carré d’Agneau Grillé & la Sauce 
Castillane), 


Have a good, tender rack of lamb; remove the chine bone, cut the ribs very short, and pare 
the fillets to the bone without taking any meat from the ribs; separate all these ribs by giving sharp. 
blows with the dull edge of a knife on the chine bone, to break the bones, but without cutting 
through the meats; pass a skewer between the middle of the rack, and the rib bones in such a way 
as to uphold the rack in its original shape; dip it into melted butter, season with salt and pepper,, 
and roll it in white bread-crumbs, then broil over a slow fire for twenty-five to thirty minutes. 
Dress, withdraw the skewer, and serve with a separate Castillane sauce (No. 448), or any other 
suitable one, such as bordelaise (No. 436), or Périgueux (No. 517). 


(1734) RACK OF LAMB WITH ARTICHOKES—SAUTED (Carré dAgneau Sauté aux Artichauts).. 


Cut short the breasts of two racks of lamb; take out the chine bones and put the meats into a 
sautéing-pan with melted fat pork and a bunch of parsley containing aromatics and a clove of gar- 
lic, season and fry over a brisk fire. Aside from this cut eight small, slightly pared, tender and 
raw artichoke bottoms in two; lay them in another sauté pan with some oil, then season and fry 
them over a moderate fire. As soon as the lamb is nicely done, drain off the fat, pour over half a. 
bottleful of white wine and let reduce to a glaze; baste the meats with a little half-glaze sauce, 
(No. 413) and take them from the fire to lay on a hot dish; suppress the garnished parsley and 
surround the meats with the artichokes: 


(1735), RACK OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS—LARDED AND ROASTED (Carvé. - 
d'Agneau Piqué et Roti & la Purée de Pois Secs), 


Select a good tender rack of lamb; suppress the chine bone, cut the rib bones short and 
straight and pare the fillet meats without taking any from the ribs; lard the meat lengthwise with 
medium sized lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52), then wrap the rack in a sheet of oiled paper and attach it 
on the spit fastening it with a skewer; let it roast for twenty or thirty-five minutes while basting 
frequently; a few moments before serving unwrap to brown it nicely, then salt it over, withdraw 
the skewers and serve with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over, and some more in a sauce- 
boat to be served at the same time. The above dish is to be served with a garnishing of purée 
of split peas (No. 724) in a vegetable dish. 





LAMB. | | 561 


(1736), DOUBLE OR SADDLE OF LAMB WITH THE LEGS AND POTATO CROQUETTES 
(Double ou Selle d’Agneau avec les Gigots aux Croquettes de Pommes), 


Cut half a lamb crosswise that is the entire saddle with the two legs, leaving one of the ribs 
attached to the saddle, saw off the knuckle of the leg bones, make a handle two inches long by 
removing the meat and scraping the bone well ; roll the flanks under, tie the loin with three rounds 
of string having a knot at each round, then wrap the meat in a very heavy buttered paper and let 
roast either on the spit orin the oven. Unwrap it fifteen minutes before serving so as to brown it 
nicely, then dress and glaze, garnish around the dish with potato croquettes (No. 2782) and decorate: 
both legs with paper frills (No. 10); serve separately a rather light half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(1737). FORE SADDLE OF LAMB WITH CHESTNUTS (Selle d’Agneau de Devant aux Marrons).. 


Select a fore saddle of lamb with the two racks, lift off the shoulders and cut the rack bones in 
such a way that the saddle is not more than four inches high through its entire length; suppress 
the skin covering the fat and then roast it in a pan in the oven; this will take about twenty 
minutes. When done dress on along dish, glaze and garnish around the meat with peeled chest- 
nuts braised with branches of celery, and pour over some gravy (No. 404) or else serve it separately. 


(1738). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA BRIGHTON (Selle d'Agneau 4 la Brighton). 


Prepare and trim a saddle of lamb as explained for the braised saddle (No. 1745); cover it over © 
with ‘“crepruette,” (caul fat) or thin slices of fat pork. Boil twelve to fifteen quarts of soup stock in a 
saucepan, season it with salt, pepper, mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, two quartered carrots and two onions, one of them having two cloves in it, then boil and 
skim. About one hour and a quarter before serving put in the saddle and let boil unceasingly for 
an hour to an hour and a half according to its size; when done drain it off, untie, glaze 
and dress; garnish around with Villeroi cauliflower (No. 2716), and serve a Viennese sauce (No. 
558) separately. 


(1739). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA CHANCELIERE (Selle d'Agneau & la Chanceliére), 


Prepare the saddle the same as for the turnips (No. 1745), and when nearly cooked drain, 
and pare nicely and evenly; place in a baking pan, cover the top with a coating of beaten eggs, 
and dredge fine bread-crumbs over, pour on some melted butter and brown in a hot oven. Strain 
the broth, reduce it to a half-glaze and add to this a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and béchamel 
(No. 409); serve this with the saddle. Line some tartlet molds with fragments of very thin puff 
paste (No. 146), fill them with well-cooked fat rice stirred in with some béchamel (No. 409) and 
seasoned with salt and nutmeg and the well-beaten egg-whites; fifteen minutes before serving the 
meat set these in the oven and when they are cooked range them around the saddle and serve. 


(1740). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA FLORENTINE (Gelle @'Agneau & la Florentine). 


Roast a saddle of yearling lamb in the oven having it laid in a baking pan; salt and baste 
with dripping. It will take from an hour to an hour and a half to have it properly roasted if the 
oven be very hot. When done, dress and glaze the meat, surround it with a garnishing of 
artichoke bottoms a la Florence (No. 2677), and serve with a separate white Colbert sauce 
(No, 451). 


(1741), HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA PAGANINI (Selle d’Agneau & la Paganini). 

Haye the saddle prepared and cooked the same as for Florentine (No. 1740); dress the meat 
and garnish around with slices of foies-gras intercalated with slices of truffles; cover these with a 
supréme sauce (No. 547) and lay on top partridge quenelles decorated with truffies. The saddle 
may be garnished with skewers thrust into it composed of double cocks’-combs and glazed trufiles. 
Serve a sauce-bowl of supréme sauce at the same time as the saddle. 


(1742). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA SANFORD (Selle d'Agneau & la Sanford), 
Prepare and cook the meat the same as for Florentine (No. 1740), but instead of artichoke 
bottoms have a garnishing of croustades made of puff paste parings (No. 146) and filled with @ 
Sanford apple sauce (No. 588) pushed in through a pocket, lay on top of each a paste cover made by 
having three thin flatsof paste of different dimensions the smallest one on top, serve separately 
some rich gravy (No. 404). 


562 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1743), HIND SADDLE OF LAMB, AMERICAN STYLE (elle d'Agneau a l’Américaine), 


Cut off the hind saddle between the first and second ribs, remove both legs, cutting them away 
in a round from off the loin and toward the flanks; suppress also a thin peel covering the skin and 
some of the loin and kidney fat; roll the flanks over on themselves, keep them in position with four 
turns of twine, then run the spit between the twine and saddle; hold the latter in position with 
several skewers which should run through both the saddle and spit (Fig. 344), then have a suffi- 
ciently strong skewer to run into the loin marrow bone fastening it securely on the spit with a 
string, plave over the saddle a long skewer held to the spit with two rings—one at each end of the 
saddle or instead of rings strong twine may be used; cover the meat with heavy buttered paper and 
maintain it in position with fovr rows of string. The cradle spit (Fig. 116) is better adapted for 
roasting this cut of meat; all that is necessary is to place the saddle in the middle. One hour 
before serving, put the saddle in the spit and ten minutes before needed, unwrap, glaze, and dress 
on a dish; serve with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(1744), HIND SADDLE OF LAMB, FRENCH STYLE (Selle d’Agneau a la Francaise), 


Pare a saddle suppressing the skin and superfluous fat, roll the flaps or flanks under; truss and 
braise it in a braziére (Fig. 134) with bits of fat pork, minced carrots and onions; season and let 
the meat smother while turning it over; cover with a pint of stock (No. 194a) and reduce it slowly 
to a glaze, then recover to its exact heighth with hot broth, and let cook with the lid on over a slow 
fire or in a moderate oven, basting and turning frequently; should it be insufficiently moistened, 
add more hot broth. When the saddle is almost done, drain and trim it; strain the stock, skim off 
the fat carefully, and return the meat to the braziere to finish cooking, and glaze in a moderate oven. 


Dressing.—Drain the saddle, detach both fillets from the top, and cut them into even slices, then 
return them to their original position; lay the saddle on a dish that can be placed inthe oven. Have ~ 
three quarts of béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream and mushroom broth; when sufficiently 
reduced take it from the fire and stir into ita quarter of a pound of grated parmesan, three ounces 
of butter, and a little cayenne pepper; beat it thoroughly until partially cold, then cover the 
‘saddle with it smoothing the surface neatly; bestrew with grated parmesan, and finish baking in a 
hot oven. Pour a little of the stock around the meat, serving the remainder separately, and send 
‘to the table accompanied by a vegetable dish of glazed cucumbers (No. 2733). 


(1745), HIND SADDLE OF LAMB WITH MASHED TURNIPS—BRAISED (Selle d’Agneau Braisée 
a la Purée de Navets), 


Trim a saddle of yearling lamb, suppress the skin that covers it and the surplus of fat near the 
‘tail; take away very little of the kidney fat; roll the flanks under and tie the saddle with four rows 
of string makinga knot at each row; lay it in a low braziere lined with fragments of fat pork, 
sliced onions and carrots, celery roots and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, 
and let the meat smother while turning it over; moisten with one pint of hot stock (No. 194a); 
after it has slowly fallen to a glaze cover it to its height with more hot stock and let it fall very 
slowly to a glaze once more, then remoisten to its full height and cook while covered on a slow 
fire, turning it over and basting it frequently. Should the stock reduce too freely then add more hot 
stock. Two hours and a half will suffice for the cooking, then drain and pare the meat, strain the 
stock, and remove the fat and return it once more to the braziere with the saddle and let this cook 
for half an hour longer, glazing it in a moderate oven; then dress and surround with mashed tur- 
nips pushed through a pocket into round tartlet crusts and laid one beside the other; pour 
‘one-third of the stock over the meat and thicken the remainder with reduced espagnole sauce 
4{No. 414)and Madeira, serving it in a sauce-boat. 


(1746), HIND SADDLE OF LAMB WITH GRAVY—ROASTED (Selle d’Agneau Rétie au Jus), 


Trim a saddle of lamb by removing the legs and skin that covers it, also a little of the fat on 
the thick loin end and kidneys; roll the flaps over on themselves and tie the saddle firmly with four 
rows of string making a knot at each row; lay it in a baking pan, sprinkle over with salt, pour some 
fat on top and set it in a moderate oven; it will take from an hour to an hourand a quarter to 
roast a saddle without the legs. Serve the meat with some good clear gravy (No. 404). 





LAMB. 563 


41747) SLICES OF SADDLE OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF BEANS (Tranches de Selle d’Agneau & 


la Purée de Haricots), 


Cut transversal slices three-quarters of an inch in thickness from a small saddle of lamb; sea- 
son with salt and fry till done in clarified butter. Dress them in a straight row on a long dish, 
one piece overlapping the other; surround with a purée of white beans (No. 706) pushed through a 
pastry bag (Fig. 179). Cover the meats with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) having some chopped 
fresh mushrooms added to it, and serve some of the same sauce in a sauce-boat. 


(1748), SHOULDER OF LAMB A LA BENTON (Epaule d’Agneau & la Benton) 


Bone a shoulder of lamb retaining the end or the handle bone; saw off the knuckle an inch 
from the handle and season the meat with salt, pepper and nutmeg, roll it into an elongated shape, 
tie it round with six rows of string making a knot at each row. Fry the shoulder lightly in a 
‘saucepan containing butter and melted fat pork and when lightly browned, drain off the butter 
and moisten to three-quarters of aninch of its height with stock (No. 194a), add a bunch of parsley 
garnished with bay leaf, as much thyme and a clove of garlic, boil and skim, then cook in a slow 
oven for about two hours, basting the meat frequently with its own broth. Twenty minutes before 
‘serving, put in four ounces of minced onions fried to a light color in butter and finish to cook and 
glaze the shoulder. Have two pounds of medium-sized, peeled, quartered and cored apples, range 
them on a buttered sautéing pan, pour over a little butter and sprinkle with sugar, then cook them 
in asilack oven. Prepare and fry two pounds of potatoes cut in cylinders one inch in circum- 
ference, and cut across three-sixteenths of an inch thick; soak them in cold water for an hour, then 
drain, wipe and fry in white frying lard until they assume a nice color, then salt over. Drain 
tne shoulder, lay it in the center of a dish and glaze it over; strain and skim the fat from the 
stock, reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup and pour a little of it in the bottom of the dish; 
set the apples at both ends and arrange the fried potatoes at the sides; serve the reduced gravy at 
the same time, but separately. 


(1749), SHOULDER OF LAMB, ‘A LA DESSAIX (Epaule d’Agneau a la Dessaix), 


Bone two shoulders of lamb leaving on only the end or handle bones; remove all the sinews 
‘and fat, have some chopped farce (No. 68) put the whole into a mortar to pound, season, and add 
a handful of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one whole egg and a few spoonfuls of cooked fine 
herbs (No. 385); use this foreemeat for stuffing the shoulders, then sew them up so as to enclose 
the stuffing, and lay them in a narrow saucepan lined with bits of fat pork and minced roots; 
season, moisten the meats with a little stock (No. 194a), and when they are cooked, and of a fine 
color, drain them off, untie, and remove from the end bone the meat so as to be able to trim them 
with paper frills (No. 10). Dress on a dish, pour over some of their own stock, and reduce the 
remainder with as much espagnole (No. 414), until the consistency of a half-glaze sauce is obtained: 

garnish around with half heart-shaped croustades made of mashed potatoes, dipped in eggs, then 
in bread-crumbs, the surfaces smoothed nicely, and then slit them all round a quarter of an inca 
from the edge; aud fry; when finished, drain, remove the covers, empty and refill the insides with a 
small vegetable macédoine (No. 680) combined with béchamel (No. 409), serving a sauce-boatful 
of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) at the same time. 


(1750), SHOULDER OF LAMB A LA GARNIER (Epaule d'Agneau a la Garnier), 


After boning two shoulders of lamb, leaving on only the end or handle bones, stuff the 
insides with lamb forcemeat (No. 92); braise them the same as for a la Benton (No. 1748); 
then drain, skim, and reduce the stock with an equal quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Dress 
and glaze the shoulders, then garnish around with whole chestnuts (No. 654); braised celery (No. 
2721); cover the garnishing with a part of the sauce and serve what remains separately. 


(1751), SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH CUCUMBERS (Epaule d’Agneau aux Concombres). 
Prepare and braise two shoulders of spring lamb as explained for ala Benton (No. 1748), when 
done, untie and glaze; dress them either on a garnishing of cucumbers with Danish sauce 
(No. 457), or else on a macédoine garnishing (No. 680), or a jardiniére (No. 677). Strain the 
stock, remove all its fat, and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup, serving it In a sauce-boat 


the same time as the shoulders. ; yeti 
“These shoulders may be dressed in the shape of ducks or hornpipes, dishing them upon the 


same garnishings. 


564 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1752), SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH GLAZED VEGETABLES—8STUFFED (Epaule d'Agneau Farcie 
aux Légumes Glacés), | 


Boil an unsmoked red beef tongue in water for three hours before serving, cut it up into quarter 
inch thick slices and from these remove two and half inch diameter pieces with a round cutter, keep 
them warm ina sautoir with a little stock (No.194a). Bone thoroughly two shoulders of spring lamb, 
suppress the fat and sinews, then season the inside, cover the surfaces with a thin layer of lamb 
forcemeat (No.92) and bestrew with fine cooked herbs (No. 385). Roll the shoulders lengthwise, tie 
them firmly so to keep them in proper shape, then braise in a little moistening without browning. 
Drain and trim the ends, then cut the remainder of the meat into half inch thick slices, pare them 
rounded two and a half inches in diameter, and dress them in a straight row on a circle intercalat- 
ing each slice with one of tongue; arrange either around or in the center, according to the way they 
are dressed with glazed carrots, turnips and small onions; strain the stock, skim off its fat and 
reduce it with espagnole (No. 414) to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce (No. 413); serve this 
separately. 


(1753), SHOULDERS OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF CELERY—STUFFED (Epaules d’Agneau Farcies 
a la Purée de Céleri), 


Bone two shoulders of lamb keeping on the handle bone and sawing the knuckle one inch 
from it; free the meat of fat and sinews, pare nicely, then season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg. . 

Dressing for Stuffing the Shoulders.—Take one pound of sausage meat, half a pound of finely 
chopped raw ham, four tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions, half a pound of minced mush- 
rooms, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a quarter of a pound of dry bread-crumbs, two 
whole eggs and a seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg. Fill the two shoulders with this dressing, 
roll them up and sew them in such a way that none of it can escape, garnish the bottom of a sauce- 
pan with slices of fat pork, set the shoulders on top and moisten with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 
419); boil and simmer slowly for two hours and a half. As soon as the shoulders are done glaze: 
and strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a syrup. Dress the 
shoulder either on a celery purée (No. 711) or a tomato purée (No. 730), or one of artichokes (No. 
704), or else of cucumbers (No. 714), macédoine (No. 680), or jardiniére (No. 677); trim the handle 
bones with frills (No. 10) and serve the gravy apart. 


(1754), STEWED LAMB, DUGLERE (Ragofit d'Agneau & la Dugléré), 


Have an equal weight of the rack, breast, and loin of lamb; suppress the skin from the rack,, 
also the chine bone, and cut the ribs quite short nearly level with the large fillet, then divide these 
meat across in even pieces each one being an inch and a quarter wide. Cut the breast into inch 
and a half squares after paring and suppressing the skin; cut off all the fat from the loin and 
remove the skin and chine bone, then divide it intoinch and a quarter wide pieces. Fry these 
meats colorless in either lard or butter with two medium onions, one small carrot cut lengthwise 
in four and a pinch of sugar; when they begin to brown drain off the fat and moisten to half the 
heighth with stock (No.194a) adding a garnished bouquet (No.123) ;let the liquid fall toa glaze not 
allowing it at any time to cook too fast, and keeping it well covered; have the meats brown nicely, 
then remoisten to their heighth and reduce this liquid. When half cooked drain off the piece to pare 
and return them again to the saucepan with the broth and half a bottleful of white wine; when 
the meat is thoroughly done and the liquid reduced to half, throw in some fresh green peas, 
young carrots, small onions, small new potatoes and new flageolet beans, first putting in those 
taking the longest to cook, having previously browned the onions in a frying pan. Finish cooking. 
Dress the meats around the vegetables, skim the fat from the stock and strain it over all. 


(1755), STEWED LAMB, NAVARIN (Ragoft d’Agneau Navarin), 


Suppress all the bones of a leg of lamb, remove the fat and sinews, then cut it up into. 
squares an inch and a half in size; put these pieces into a bowl to season with salt and pepper, 
adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, garlic and cloves, also some Madeira 
wine, let marinate for seven hours; after the lapse of this time drain the meat and fry with grated 
fat pork and half a pound of small dice pieces of blanched bacon; moisten with the Madeira from 
the marinade adding also the aromatics and some brown sauce (No.414); cook the whole overa slow 
fire for two and a half hours skimming and adding half a bottleful of white wine. After the 


Tea Nia oe 565 


stew has been cooking for one hour put in with it a quart of fried and slightly browned turnip 
balls. Three-quarters of an hour later both meat and turnips should be done, skim nicely, season 


_ to taste and serve, dressing the meat in the center of the dish, the turnips around and the strained 


sauce over all. 


(1756), STEWED LAMB, PARISIAN STYLE (Ragofit d’Agneau ala Parisienne), 
Bone and cut off all fat and sinews from a shoulder of lamb; divide it into one inch and three- 
quarters pieces and fry these either in butter or good fat; when the meat is a golden color, drain 
off all the fat and moisten with one quart of brown sauce (No.414), a pint of stock (No.194a) and a 


pint of white wine; add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and garlic, salt and pep- 


per. Boil, skim and simmer, and after it has been cooking for three-quarters of an hour put in forty 
small onions fried in butter and as many potato balls, three-quarters of an inch in circumference, 
half a pint of tomato purée (No. 730), and a pound of small, cooked mushroom heads; it 
takes about an hour and a half to cook this stew properly. When cooked remove the bunch of pars- 
ley, skim off the fat from the stew and dress in the center of a dish, surround it with the vegetables 
and pour the strained sauce over all. 


(1757), STEWED LAMB, PERUVIAN STYLE (Ragofit d’Agneau 4 la Péruvienne), 


Cut up into inch and a half squares one leg of raw yearling lamb; season the pieces with salt, 
pepper, allspice, two ounces of minced onions and squeeze the juice of a lemon over; let macerate 
in this for two hours, then drain them off and fry in butter; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and 
espagnole sauce (No.414)—half of each—to three-quarters of the height. of the meats, then cook in 
a slow oven. After the meat is done, skim the fat from the stock and add to the stew one quart of 
cooked Lima beans (No. 2699); let the whole simmer on the range for fifteen minutes, then dress 
with the sauce and garnish around with sweet peppers fried in oil. 


(1758), STEWED LAMB, IRISH STYLE (Ragotit d'Agneau & I’ Irlandaise), 


Cut some lamb tendrons into squares; shorten the rib bones of a rack, cutting it about level 
with the large fillet, suppress the skin and chine bone, and with the parings of both these meats, 
prepare a mutton broth. Plunge the tendrons into boiling water placed in a saucepan, put it on the 
fire, skim, then drain and pare the pieces and return them to the same saucepan with two small 
onions, one garnished bouquet, two finely shredded raw potatoes and proper seasoning; moisten to 
the height of the meat with the prepared broth, strained and free of fat. Cook the stew over a 
moderate fire in such a way that when the lamb is nearly done, the liquid is found reduced to half 
and slightly thickened, and the potatoes well dissolved, pass the sauce through a tammy; now add 
to it a garnishing of raw potatoes pared like olives and about the size of a walnut; and small 
blanched onions, also the meat; season with salt and pepper and continue to cook, both the 
meat and potatoes and onions should be done at the same time. Dress the lamb in a deep dish 
with the potatoes and onions around and strain the sauce over. 


(1759), STEWED LAMB WITH TURNIPS (Ragoft d’Agneau aux Navets), 


To be made with two pounds of shoulder and one pound of breast of lamb. Cut up into one 
and three-quarters to two inch pieces, the best part of a shoulder and breast, having two-thirds of 
the shoulder to one-third of the breast. Heat some lard in a saucepan, put in the meat and brown 
while stirring, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, and when of a nice reddish brown, dredge 
over a spoonful of flour, five minutes later, drain off the fat and moisten to a little more than the 
heighth of the meat with broth (No.194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay 
leaf and a few grains of pepper. Boil together for five minutes, then withdraw the saucepan to a 
slower fire in crder to cook the lamb without reducing the liquid too rapidly; pour in at intervals 
a few spoonfuls of broth and when the meat is three-quarters done, mix into the stew a garnishing 
of turnips shaped into balls or else quartered, browned in a pan with butter. Finish to 
cook the turnips in the stew. Just when ready to serve rub a piece of garlic on an iron spoon 
and let it steep in the stew for a few moments, dress the meat on to a dish, garnish around 


with the turnips and pour the strained sauce over. 


(1760). LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA FINANCIERE (Ris d’Agneau & la Financiére), 


Lard with lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) some even-sized lamb sweetbreads previously parboiled, re- 
freshed and put to cool under a weight, range them closely together in a sautoir lined with fat 
pork, roots and minced onions; moisten to half their heighth with stock (No. 194a), and let this 


566 | THE EPICUREAN. 


liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more and finish cooking in a moderate oven, basting over fre- 
quently in order to glaze them weil. Prepare a rice border, shaping it by hand and channeling with 


a piece of wet turnip, or else a molded one may be used, pour some butter over this, and brown it: 
in the oven. Range in the center of the border a financiere garnishing composed of truffles, — 
quenelles, escalops of foies-gras, mushrooms, and cock’s-combs, pouring over a financiere sauce: 


(No. 464), place the glazed sweetbreads on top of this garnishing. 
(1761), LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA JOINVILLE (Ris d’Agneau @ la Joinville), 


Braise some lambs’ sweetbreads as indicated for the financiére (No. 1760). Prepare and 
pound a border made of forcemeat (No. 79), place it on a dish; lay a croustade made either’ 


of bread or paste in the center of the border; place the sweetbreads after they are well 
glazed around, and fill the croustade with a garnishing composed of quenelles, mushrooms, 
truffles, and a supréme sauce (No. 547) into which lobster butter (No. 580) has been added. Be- 
tween every sweetbread lay a slice of tongue cut out to imitate a cocks’-comb and glazed with 
meat glaze (No. 402) and on the summit of the garnishing place some round chicken quenelles. 
decorated with truffles (No. 154). 


(1762), LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA SEVIGNE (Ris d’Agneau & la Sévignd), 


Soak and parboil some hearts of lamb’s sweetbreads, lay them in a sautoir lined with bardes. 
of fat pork, sliced carrots and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moister to their 
heighth with some stock (No.194a), boil, skim and finish cooking in a slow oven. Put them to press in 
round rings; when cold take them out, cover with a thick Villeroi (No. 560), let get cold and then 
dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs. Poach some quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) in Savarin 
molds decorated with truffles, unmold and fill the hollow centers with a salpicon of truffles and 
mushrooms, cover over with a supréme sauce (No. 547). Have the sweetbreads fried in clarified. 
butter and laid around the garnishing. 


(1763), LAMBS’ TAILS A LA CONTI (Queues d’Agneau a la Conti), 


Parboil twelve yearling lambs’ tails cut from the saddle at the beginning of the tail. Cover 
the bottom of a sautoir (Fig. 130) with fragments of fat pork, minced carrots and onions and a. 
garnished bouquet (No. 123); put in the tails and moisten to their entire height with broth (No. 
194a), then let them cook slowly in the oven. When done, drain them on a baking sheet, be- 
sprinkle with salt and set a weight on top, strain the stock, remove the fat and reduce it to half; 
when the tails are cold, pare them by cutting off the ends so that they remain only three and a. 
half inches long, dip in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil on a slow fire, dress on a. 
dish in a circle, glaze well and fill the inside space with a thick lentil purée (No. 719). <A thick 
half-glaze sauce (No, 413) accompanies these tails having it served separately. 


(1764), TENDRONS OR GRISTLE OF LAMB WITH ROBERT SAUCE—BROILED (Tendrons 
d’Agneau Grillés a la Sauce Robert), 


Raise the cartilaginous parts from the breast which are called the tendrons or gristle, remove the- 
breast bones keeping on only the tendrons, season with salt, pare into half hearts and lay them ina 
double broiler after brushing over with oil, and then broil them on a slow fire; when done dress. 


on a Robert sauce (No. 533), insert a small bone into each piece to represent a handle and trim it. 
with a paper frill (No. 10). : : 


(1765), LAMBS’ TONGUES WITH OLIVES (Langues d’Agneau aux Olives), 


Steep and parboil twelve lambs’ tongues, then cook them in stock (No. 194a) drain and suppress: 
the white skin that covers them. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, range the tongues on top 
one beside the other, and braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) with Madeira. After they are- 
cooked place them under the pressure of a light weight to cool, then divide them laterally in two; 
pare nicely and heat in some clear gravy (No. 404), glaze and dress them in a circle, filling the- 
interior with a garnishing of blanched olives combined with Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with 


the stock. 
<1766). LAMBS’ TROTTERS A LA BORDELAISE AND A LA BORDELAISE WENBERG (Pieds: 
d’Agneau a la Bordelaise et & 1a Bordelaise Wenberg), 


Scald, scrape and singe twenty-four lambs’ feet, split them underneath through the thickness. 
of the meat their whole length, remove the pointed hoof bones leaving the foot whole. Dilute a. 


LAMB. 56% 


small handful of flovr with cold water in a saucepan able to hold three gallons, add toit salt, whole: 
peppers, parsley leaves, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, garlic and carrots cut in four; put in the feet and 
let cook for five hours; when done, drain. Fry six shallots colorless in butter, moisten them with: 
red wine, a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), brandy and meat glaze (No. 402); season with salt. 
and pepper, add the feet, simmer and serve them in a very little sauce. 


A la Bordelaise Wenberg.—Prepare as for the above adding finely minced hot peppers, 
plenty of brandy and red wine, and when ready to serve, a little freshly ground black pepper. 


(1767), LAMBS’ TROTTERS A LA CHANTILLY (Pieds d’Agneau a la Chantilly), 


Prepare the feet the same as indicated for poulette (No. 1768), placing them in a sauceparm 
with two spoonfuls of chopped onions and shallots; moisten with two gills of white wine, and reduce: 
to half, adding two gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), a garnished bouquet (No. 123), and a few fresh 
mushroom peelings; boil and reduce the sauce without ceasing to stir, incorporating slowly in it a 
few spoonfuls of mushroom broth, and when it is well reduced and succulent, strain and add to it 
the lambs’ trotters; let them simmer in the sauce for twelve minutes over a very slow fire; at the 
last moment thicken the sauce with two raw egg-yolks diluted in cream. Take the stew from the 
fire and finish it with a few pieces of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley and lemon juice. Dress 
the feet on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and surround with a string of small stuffed mush- 
rooms (No. 650), or should they be too large cut them in two. 


(1768), LAMBS’ TROTTERS A LA POULETTE AND A LA DIDIER (Pieds d’Agneau a la Poulette 
et a la Didier), 


Singe with alcohol about two dozen well cleaned lambs’ trotters, cook them in white stock 
(No. 182); suppress the hairy tuft found between the two divisions of the forked hoofs; shorten 
the bones of these hoofs and then split each foot in two lengthwise, and take out the large shank: 
bone. Put some flour into a saucepan, dilute it with cold water and add salt, whole peppers,. 
vinegar, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; moisten with more water 
then put in the feet either singly or else three bunched firmly together; boil, skim, and continue: 
the boiling slowly for five or six hours either on the corner of the range or else in a slack oven. 
Drain the feet and place them in a flat saucepan with mushrooms and velouté sauce (No. 415)5: 
season, boil, and thicken with egg-yolks, cream, fresh buster, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. 


A la Didier.—Prepare and cook twenty-four feet as indicated for the above. Fry two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped onions in butter; when a light golden color, besprinkle with flour, and allow - 
it to cook a few moments without browning; dilute this with some stock (No. 194a), adding a. 
bunch of parsley and some mushroom parings; after it has cooked some time, skim off the fat and’. 
trun the sauce through a sieve, then add to it the feet and some turned and channeled mushroone, 
heads (No. 118); thicken with egg-yolks and fresh butter, and finish with strained lemon juice, and. 
chopped parsley; serve very hot. 


(1769), LAMBS’ TROTTERS WITH TARRAGON GRAVY—STUFFED AND BROILED (Pieds : 
d'Agneau au jus d’Estragon—Farcis et Grillés), 


Prepare and cook the trotters the same as for the Poulette (No. 1768); (do not remove the shank- 
bone before cooking); drain them from their stock and while yet hot suppress this bone without de- 


. forming the foot; fill the empty space made by abstracting the bone with a fine quenelle forcemeat 


(No. 92) containing half its quantity of foies-gras from a terrine and chopped up truffles, seasoning” 
very highly. Beat up two raw eggs, add salt and two spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); dip) 
the lamb trotters in this egg mixture one by one, drain well, then roll them in white bread-crumbs, 


> afterward steeping them in melted butter; range them as fast as they are completed on a.. 


broiler and broil for twenty minutes over a slow fire, turning them over. Dress on a hot 
dish, pouring some clear gravy (No. 404) on the bottom of the dish to which has been added 
some blanched tarragon leaves. 


(1770). WHOLE LAMB ALA THEODORA—HOT AND COLD (Agneau Entier & la Théodora—- 
Chaud et Froid), 


Bone the neck as far down as the third rib, break the rib bones in the middle of the breast... 
disconnect the sinews at the joints of each shoulder, and run an iron skewer through them; fastens- 


i eee ee 

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568 THE ae es 
* Rei 


the thigh ponies pelle on this. eel then Break ae one ve Bole 1 
cross over the two handle bones, then wrap the meat in strong buttered pap 
cradle spit (Fig. 116) to cook for one hour and a half, basting it frequently ¢ durit 

Sats and let it acquire a fine beeen then dress. it on a ate dish and ae, aroun 





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PORK (Porc). 


(177), BACON—SMOKED—WITH SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE (Petit Salé Fumé aux Epinards 
a |’ Anglaise), 

_ Cut from a side of smoked bacon some pieces weighing about a pound each; boil them in 
unsalted water. Clean some spinach, cook it in separate salted water, drain but donot chop. Put 
it into a sautoir with a piece of butter divided in small pats, and when prepared to serve place it in 
the center of a dish, remove the rind from the bacon, cut it in slices, and lay them overlapping one 
another on top of the spinach. 


(1772), BLACK BLOOD PUDDING (Boundins Noirs), 


Blood puddings are made with the pig’s blood collected in a receptacle, and well stirred while 
hot to prevent coagulation. 


Composition.—In blood puddings there is to be found, blood, leaf lard, onions, apple marma- 
lade, cream, salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, celery, savory, and parsley. 


Proportions.—For twelve pounds of black pudding have three pounds of blood, three pounds 
of onions, three pounds of leaf lard, two pounds of apple marmalade, and a pint of cream. 

Chop up fine three pounds of onions, selecting the yellow ones in preference; put two ounces 
of lard in a saucepan with the onions, and leave to cook on a slow fire about two hours; stir from 
time to time. Have three pounds of leaf lard, take off the skin and cut up into quarter inch 
squares; put these into a colander and plunge it for five minutes in boiling water, being careful to 
keep the pieces detached; drain for a few moments without pressing. Put this lard in with the 
onions, when the latter are well cooked, and stir until thoroughly mixed; this should be done on a 
very slow fire; now pour in the blood straining it through a fine wire sieve (Fig. 170) to 
suppress any coagulated parts; mix all well, adding the apple marmalade; season with a third of an 
ounce of salt for each pound of preparation, a third of an ounce of pepper, allspice, chopped parsley, 
nutmeg, celery, and savory to taste. Keep these ingredients in a bain-marie at a seventy degree tem- 
perature, while the puddings are being stuffed. Soak eight yards of pigs’ casings for half an hour in 
tepid water; run the water through them; be assured that there are no holes. Push a pudding cornet 
down the casing to the length of four inches, and fill by pouring in the preparation; close up the 
filled end with a tight knot after letting about two ounces of the preparation run out, thus avoid- 
ing the too fatty part. Divide the length of the filled casing into five inch pieces, beginning at the 
tied end and twisting the first division from left to right, and the second from right to left, and so 
on consecutively, alternating the twists. Make a knot at the other end and then lay this prepared 
part in a dry receptacle. Keep twenty quarts of water steadily boiling, and when all the puddings 
are finished, plunge them all together into this boiling water; take from off the fire and leave them 
about twenty-five minutes so they become cooked. To find out when they are done to perfection 
no blood must be seen issuing through a hole to be perforated in the skin with a coarse pin. 


To Cook.—Score the pudding on both sides and boil on a moderate fire. Serve on a hot dish 
accompanying it with either French or English mustard seed separately. 


(1773), BREAST OF SALT PORK WITH CABBAGE (Poitrine de Porc salé aux Choux). 

Have a two-pound piece of the breast of bacon, unsalt it for two hours, scrape and parboil for 
ten minutes, then lay it in a saucepan full of boiling water to let cook very slowly for one hour; 
add to it two small and very clean curled cabbages cut in four and finish cooking the bacon and 
cabbages together; drain off and press the cabbages in a colander to extract all their water, then 
lay it on a long dish. Remove the rind from the bacon, cut it up into slices and dress them 
symmetrically over the cabbage, pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish. 


(1774), OHINE OF PORK A LA PARMENTIER (Echinée de Porc & la Parmentier). 
The chine comprises the loin and a few of the rack chops; decrease the thickness of the fat, 


leaving it only half an inch in depth on its entire surface; beat down the projecting chine bone; 
(569) 


570 THE EPICUREAN. 


score the fat into lozenges and wrap the meat inan oiled paper; cook it either on the spit or in 
the oven. The time it will take will be from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; before 
serving unwrap the chine, sprinkle over with salt and brown it nicely; glaze and remove from 
the spit or oven. Dress and garnish around with potato balls cooked in broth and fried in 
butter; serve a Bretonne sauce (No. 439) separately. 


(1775), CHITTERLINGS OF TROYES (Andouillettes de Troyes), 

Chitterlings require a great deal of care in their preparation; in fact it must be remarked that 
the quality depends entirely upon the proper cleansing of the bowels. 

Ingredients. —Pork bowels, calf’s crow, throat fat taken from the pig, salt, pepper, allspice, nut- 
meg, onion, shallot, mignonette and parsley. Take some pork bowels, removing the stomach and the 
casing, only using the large intestine, wash this in cold water. Turn it inside out in sucha 
way that the fatty part is inside; in order to accomplish this easily, take a stick a yard long, place 
the end of it in three inches of the narrowest end of the pipe and run the pipe entirely on the 
stick, keeping it all the time in its original place; when it is all on let slide by pulling it slowly on 
the first part, that is on the stick, and the pipe will turn over all alone. Now clean it in luke- 
warm water acidulated with vinegar, changing it three times and leave to soak for three hours; 
rub it once more through the hands so as to remove all the remaining gluey parts. Put aside the 
uncrimped part of the pipe which will answer for wrapping purposes and set the remainder in a 
pot full of cold water; heat until the pipe becomes a little hard, not letting it boil. Afterward cut 
the pipe lengthwise, lay it perfectly flat spread it out and clean it thoroughly; eut it into 
thin strips as long as possible without separating the parts. Cut also into the same lengths 
the crimped part of a calf’s crow suppressing the fat center. Cut up about a pound 
and a half of salt pork into strips. Now lay all these out on a table in the proportion of 
two-thirds of the bowels and the other third composed of crow and throat fat; dress in oblong 
shape, being careful that the left side has the least possible loose ends; the size to be about 
eight to nine strips. Season this laid out part with a minced seasoning composed of three 
onions, three shallots, half a handful of very finely chopped parsley, pepper, allspice, nutmeg and 
mignonette, strewing it over the whole. Pass a strap made of two six inch lengths of birchwood 
fastened together with an inch length of string through the opening on the left end, and turn if in 
such a way that the chitterling has the appearance of a twisted cable. Cut the pipes laid aside for 
Wrapping purposes into sixteen inch lengths, have the fatty part outside, operating the same as 
when turning over the gut itself, placing the gut one inch below the hole; run the chitterling 
through, being careful to keep the first end at the extremity of the chitterling; tie both ends. 
Although this may appear very easy, yet it is a difficult operation to perform for tne first time and 
requires a certain practice. 


To Cook the Chitterlings.—To have them very white, cook in a stock of half milk, half water, 
one onion, thyme, bay leaf, salt and lemon; leave to boil slowly for about three hours. In order 
to give a finer appearance, restuff the chitterling after the first cooking in an uncrimped pipe and 
leave on a slow fire for fifteen minutes, keeping it near boiling point. Now lay it ina napkin and 
press between two boards with weights on top or else in the press (Fig. 71); the chitterlings will be 
square-shaped. 

To Broil.—Score the chitterlings on both sides about three-sixteenths of an inch in depth, 
baste with oil or butter, broil on a slow fire and dress on a dish over a little clear gravy (No. 404). 


(1776), PORK OUTLETS A L’AURORA (Gételettes de Porc & l’Aurore). 

Cut off six covered cutlets from a rack of pork, beat to flatten to half an inch in thickness, then 
season with salt and pepper; fry them in butter and when done range them on a dish capable of 
being placed in the oven; cover over with well-seasoned béchamel cream sauce (No. 411) thickened 
with raw egg-yolks and adding some very finely cut up chives. Press a few hard-boiled egg-yolks 
through a sieve holding it over the chops, and when the top is well covered, pour on some butter 
and brown in a brisk oven. 


L777), PORK CUTLETS HALF-GLAZE AND WITH APPLES (Cotelettes de Porc & la Sauce 
Demi-Glace aux Pommes d’Arbre). 

Cut off and pare twelve cutlets from two racks of a young pig—they should weigh about five 
ounces each after being nicely trimmed, range them in a sautéing pan covered with a layer of 
melted butter, add a bunch of parsley garnished with a clove, thyme, bay leaf, and season with salt 
and pepper. Pour over half a gill of Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, put on the lid, and 





or i Sera 


Fore Knuckle 


She agile ek og ie 


ied 0 es SE 


571 


PORK AMERICAN CUTS. (Porc Coupe & l’Américaine), 


Ham 





Leaf Lard 


Breast 


Shoulder 


Foot 


Fig. 351. 





Hind Knuckle 


Tenderloin 


Sirloin 


Back Fat (Larding Pork) 
Chine 


Neck 


DIVISION OF PORK (Division du Pore). 


A pork is divided in two parts called halves, and each of these in thirteen, making twenty-six 
in all, exclusive of the head, which forms the twenty-seventh: 


Leaf Lard—(Panne) 


Feet—(Pieds) 8. 
Chine—(Echine) 9. 
Tenderloin—(Filet) 10. 
Back Fat—(Lard) rh 
Shoulder—(Epaule) ibe 
Ham—(Jambon) 13. 


Fore Knuckle—(Jarret de Devant) 
Hind Knuckle—(Jarret de Derriére) 
Breast—(Poitrine) 

Tail—(Queue) 

Sirloin—(Longe) 

Neck—(Cou) 


The intestines not included in these are composed of: 


1 
2 


He» co 


. Gut—(Chaudin) 

. Casing— (Menu) 

. Stomach—(Panse) 
. Liver—(Foie) 


5. Lights—(Mou) 
6. Caul Fat—(Crépine) 
7%. Crow—(Fraise) 


5% THE EPICUREAN. 


when the liquid reaches boiling point place it in a slack oven so that the chops cook slowly and 
brown slightly without attaching to the dish; after twenty minutes turn them over. Should the 
butter become too hot add a little broth (No. 194a) until thoroughly cooked, and when assured of 
this fact, remove the chops from the fire, drain off the butter and detach the glaze found adhering 
to the bottom of the dish with a little Madeira wine; now add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
suppress the narsley and drain well the chops, trim their handles and dress. Strain the sauce 
through atammy finishing it with a little fresh butter and lemon juice; cover over the chops with 
half of this sauce, serving the other half in a separate sauce-boat. 

With Apples.—Have the cutlets prepared and cooked the same as No. 1777, only garnish 
around with apples cut in one-quarter of an inch thick slices by two and a half inches in diameter; 
remove the seeds with an apple corer, fry them in lard and when nearly done sprinkle over some 
sugar and continue the cooking until they are glazed. 


(1778). PORK CUTLETS AND OHOPS, PLAIN AND CASTILLANE—BROILED (Cotelettes de 
Porc Grillées Nature & la Castillane et Cotelettes de Filet), 

Certainly the best way to prepare pork cutlets is to broil them; when fried they lose their 
finest qualities. From a small rack cut off six cutlets beat, pare, season and roll them in a little 
oil, then broil over a good fire for twelve to fourteen minutes, being careful to turn them; trim the 
handles with paper frills (No. 10), and dress on a very hot dish. 

Castillane.—After the cutlets have been prepared and cooked as for the above, dress them on 
a hot dish and serve with a sauce-boatful of Castillane sauce (No. 448). Prepare chops the 
same as cutlets, they should be cut from a loin instead of from the rack. 


(1779). PORK CUTLETS WITH APPLE CROQUETTES (Cotelettes de Porc aux Croquettes de Pommes 
| d’ Arbre). 

Prepare aud cook the cutlets the same as for cooked fine herbs (No. 1780), trim the handle 
bones and dress in a circle; fill the center with apple croquettes (No. 3016) in the form of inch 
balls, and serve separately a brown sauce (No. 414), with essence of ham (No. 390.) To make 
apple croquettes, mince some apples very small and cook them slowly in fresh butter; when nearly 
done add a little sugar and finish the cooking. Let this preparation get quite cold, then divide it 
into small parts of a sufficient size to make inch in diameter balls; roll these in bread-crumbs, 
beaten eggs and then more bread-crumbs, smooth this over neatly with a knife and fry the cro- 
quettes in very hot fat. 


(1780). PORK CUTLETS WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Cotelettes de Porc aux Fines Herbes Cuites), 
After the cutlets have been pared and seasoned, fry them very slowly in butter turning them 
over when a fine color on one side; fourteen minutes will suffice to cook them. Lay the cutlets 
on a dish, keep it warm while detaching the glaze in the pan with a little gravy (No. 404), and 
reducing it with some half-glaze sauce (No. 413); add cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and lemon juice, 
then pour the whole over the cutlets; trim the handle bones with paper frills (No. 10), and serve. 


(1781), PORK CUTLETS WITH GRAVY, ROBERT OR GHERKIN SAUCE—BREADED (Cotelettes 
de Porc Panées au Jus, & la Sauce Robert, ou & la Sauce aux Cornichons), 


Prepare four cutlets with their rib bones beginning at the third rib from the neck; the meat should 
be white and firm; beat down to flatten to half an inch in thickness, then pare evenly and season 
with salt and pepper, dip the cutlets in melted butter, then in white bread-crumbs and broil over a 
slow fire for fifteen minutes; when cooked and nicely browned, trim the handles with frills (No. 10), 
dress in a circle and pour some clear gravy (No. 404), into the dish. 

With Robert Sauce.—Prepare and cook as above and serve with Robert sauce (No. 533). 

For Gherkin Sauce.—Pour one gill of vinegar into a saucepan with two chopped up shallots 
and a pinch of pepper; reduce completely, then add some brown sauce (No. 414), and a little gravy 
(No. 404), reduce, despumate and just when ready to serve, throw in chopped up pickled gher- 
kins, or else have a pickle sauce as described in No. 518. 


(1782). PORK CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES—HASHED (Cotelettes de Porc Hachéesala 


Purée de Pommes). 
From the rack of a young pig cut off six cutlets; pare and remove all the meat from the bones, 
keeping the rib bones for further use. Chop up the meats with half as much cooked udder and add 
to this hash, a third of its quantity of raw truffles in one-eighth of an inch dice-shaped pieces; season 





OTR. ak? 573 


highly and divide the preparation into eight even parts; shape each one similar to acutlet using the 
reserved bones for handles, and wrap in squares of ‘‘crepinette” or caul fat; dip in beaten eggs, 
bread-crumb well, and lay them in a sautoir containing melted butter; heat simply to stiffen both 
sides, then moisten to their heighth with gravy (No. 404); boil the liquid, cover the sautoir and set 
it in a slack oven for an hour and a half; trim them with paper frills (No. 10). Dress and pour the 
reduced stock into the bottom of the dish and serve with a vegetable dishful of mashed potatoes 
(No. 2798). 


(1783), PIGS’ FEET A LA ST, MENEHOULD (Pieds de Cochon & la St. Ménéhould), 


Have eight scalded and clean pigs’ feet; soak them for several hours in water, drain, and place 
them in a saucepan with cold water; bring this to a boil, and continue simmering slowly for 
three-quarters of an hour; then drain, refresh, wipe and singe the feet; tie them together with a 
tape and range them in a stock pot having the bottom covered with large vegetables; pour over 
plenty of water and a bottleful of white wine, adding salt and aromatics, then boil again while 
skimming; now paste on the lid with a paste made of flour and water, and continue cooking the 
feet for twelve hours in the oven, allowing them to cool off in their own stock; drain, untie, and 
split each one in two lengthwise; season over with salt and mignonette, bread-crumb them English 
style, or with egg-yolks beaten up with melted butter (No. 13), then roll in bread-crumbs, broil 
of a nice color over a moderate fire, serve very hot. 


(1784), PIGS’ FEET—BROILED (Pieds de Cochon Grillés), 


If the feet have to be cooked at home, then clean them well and tie them together in pairs; boil 
them in a stock in which salted meats have been cooked, or else in a broth fragrant with vege- 
tables, onions, carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, basil etc., peppercorns, cloves 
and allspice; four or five hours will suffice to have them done properly, then let them cool off in 
the same liquid; unwrap and cut each foot into two parts; wet the surfaces with a brush dipped in 
butter or melted lard, pare and roll in bread-crumbs; broil them for fifteen to twenty minutes over 
a moderate fire. 


(1785), PIGS FEET TRUFFLED (Pieds de Cochon Truffés), 


This is one of the best, at the same time the easiest way of utilizing the pigs’ feet. Make two 
pounds of forcemeat composed of one pound of fat pork taken from under the spine and a pound 
and a quarter of lean taken from the end of the tenderloin. Peel five good sized truffles, cut one 
of them up in slices to lay over the ‘‘ erépinette”’ or caul fat, and the other four in small three- 
sixteenths of an inch squares. Mix the forcemeat with the small bits of truffle, two eggs, two 
pinches of flour, and a few drops of orange flower water; season with a third of an oun¢e of salt for 
every pound, white pepper and nutmeg; mix well together and leave stand for half an hour. Bone 
four pigs’ feet cooked in a white stock, cut the meat into small pieces and put them into a saucepan 
with good broth (No, 194a) just sufficient to cover, add the truffle peelings and a little sherry wine, 
After this has been boiling ten minutes pour the whole into a flat square vessel to make a layer 
half an inch thick, then leave it to get cold. Soak a ‘‘crépinette” or caul fat in cold water, wipe 
it perfectly dry and then spread it out; lay on this three slices of truffle placed lozenge form. Roll 
out a ball of the forcemeat of two ounces, flatten to an oval form. Cut some of the feet now 
formed into a jelly the same shape only a little smaller; and lay it on the forcemeat, cover with 
another piece exactly the size and shape of the first then wrap around the ‘‘ crépinette” giving it 
while rolling it in the hands the shape of an oval. 

To Cook the Feet.—Butter these with a brush, dip them in white bread-raspings, and then broil 
them over a slow fire; turn four times while cooking to allow the juice of the feet to penetrate the 
forcemeat. At the last moment increase the heat; they should be of a fine golden color all over. 


(1786), PIGS’ FEET WITH TRUFFLES, PERIGORD (Pieds de Oochon aux Truffes du Périgord) 


Cook the feet the same as when prepared for broiled (No. 1784), let them get partially cold in 
their stock, then drain, unwrap and cut each one in two lengthwise; bone every one of the 
halves properly, season with salt and mignonette and fill all their insides with a stuffing of pork 
and chopped truffles, with a quarter as much fine liver baking forcemeat (No. 81). Smooth the 
surface of this dressing and cover it over with slices of raw truffles; wrap each half foot in a 
square of soaked and well dried ‘‘crepinette” or caul fat, brush over with butter or melted lard, 
and dip them in bread-crumbs; broil for twenty minutes over a moderate fire, then dress on a 


hot dish with a little gravy (No. 404) added. 


514 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1787), HAM A LA BENEDICT OR WITH JARDINIERE ROASTED (Jambon Roti la Benedict 
ou a la Jardiniére), 


Steep the smoked ham in cold water for twenty-four hours; wash, pare and remove the hip bone; 
put it in an earthen dish, pour over some Madeira wine and season with whole peppers, cloves, thyme, 
bay leaf, mace, garlic, sliced carrots and onions and lemon juice; keep it in a cool place for twelve 
hours turning the ham round several times in this marinade. Five hours before serving, wrap the 
ham up with its strained marinade fried in butter and moistened and reduced with white wine and 
the moistening of the marinade, in sheets of strong oiled paper; cover the paper with a flour and 
water paste so that.the ham is hermetically enclosed, then cover this paste with another sheet of 
very thin oiled paper; lay it either on the spit or in the oven, pour oil over and roast for three 
hours; remove from the fire and make a small hole on the top to penetrate the paste and papers, 
set a funnel into this, and pour in a gill of good Madeira, the same quantity of malaga and half a 
gill of brandy. Cover the hole with a round piece of paper, and paste it over to concentrate all the 
steam which is essential to obtain success. An hour after, take the ham from the oven or spit, 
unwrap, pare carefully and glaze with meat glaze (No. 402); dress and garnish around with escalops 
of foies-gras, cocks’-combs and kidneys, and slices of red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch 
thick, and one inch and a quarter in diameter, quenelles and channeled mushrooms; cover the 
whole with a well-buttered supréme sauce (No. 547), and trim the handle with a paper frill (No. 10), 
insert a few skewers in the top garnished with cocks’-combs and channeled mushrooms (No. 118). 

This ham may be served with a jardiniére garnishing (No. 677) and a half-glaze sauce (No. 
413) served separately. 


(1788), HAM A LA LEONARD—BOILED (Jambon Bouilli a la Léonard), 


Immerse in cold water for twelve hours a fresh, smoked ham, after cutting off the end of the 
handle bone and shortening the hip bone; suppress the part of the meat and the smoked fat 
and lay the ham in a large saucepan covering it over abundantly with cold water; set it on 
the fire, bring the liquid gradually to a boil, then drain off this water and replace it with 
tepid water, adding carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, sage and 
basil; season with peppercorns, cloves and mace. At the first boil remove it on one side so that ‘i 
simmers only (the length of time for its cooking will be a quarter of an hour for each pound); when 
the ham is nearly done, take the saucepan from the fire and leave it to cool off in the water for one 
hourlonger. Just when prepared to serve drain the ham, suppress therind and aitchbone, pare th2 
fat and meat around and underneath and cut off all the meat from the handle. Lay the ham o:. 
dish and slice a piece off from the bottom so that it will stand plumb; glaze it over with a brush 
and place itin a deep baking tin with a little clear gravy (No.404) and as much Madeira wine; boil 
thisup and keep it in aslack oven for fifteen minutes, basting frequently with the gravy. Dress on a 
long dish on a three-inch high rice socle, trimmed like a croustade and colored in the oven; pour 
half the gravy over, trim the handle bone with a frill (No. 10) and surround with twenty-four crous- 
tades, eight filled with green peas, eight with asparagus tops, and eight with quarter-inch squares 
of mushrooms. Serve at the same time but separately a sauce-boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). 
This ham may also be served with a garnishing of Italian macaroni or lazagnes and a tomato sauce 
(No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 418) instead of the Madeira. 


1789), HAM, ROASTED ON THE SPIT, MADEIRA SAUCE, OR MARINATED AND ROASTED, 
WHITE WINE SAUCE (Jambon Roti & la Broche Sauce Madére, ou Mariné Roti au 
Four 4 la Sauce au Vin Blanc), 


On the Spit.—Select a small raw unsmoked ham, remove the aitchbone, saw off the handle joint 
and suppress the rind and part of the fat, leaving only a layer half an inch in thickness; pare the 
ham into a round shape, then lay it in brine from two to eight days, and later when needed for 
use, wash it in plenty of cold water; wipe and envelop the lean parts in a large slice of fat pork 
tie up the ham and roast it on the spit, basting it frequently with white wine; serve hot with « 
sauce-boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). | 

Marinated and Roasted in the Oven—White Wine Sauce.—Prepare the ham the same as for 
the above, only instead of salting it, place it in a vessel to marinate for two days with white wine 
and a seasoning of salt, pepper, sliced onions, cloves, minced carrots, parsley leaves, thyme, bay 
leaf, a little sugar and sweet oil; turn the meat over every three hours. Wrap the ham up with its 
marinade in several sheets of strong paper and roast it in a moderate oven for three hours and 








RORIGt 595 


ahalf. Thirty minutes before serving, unwrap and glaze the surface, strain the stock, remove its 
fat and thicken it with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; boil for half an hour remove 
the fat, dress the ham, have it nicely glazed and pour a little of the sauce under, while serving the 
remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(179°. HAM, WITH CARROTS, STUFFED TOMATOES OR MUSHROOMS—BRAISED AND 
GLAZED (Jambon Braisé et Glacé aux Carottes, Tomates ou Champignons Farcis), 


Have the ham of a young pig freshly salted and smoked; saw off the handle straight, also the 
hip bone; pare the meats and fat slightly, and lay it to soak in cold water fer twelve hours, then 
drain, scrape well, wash and wrap it in a cloth; lay it in a soup-pot with four times its heighth of 
water, let it come toa boil, then set it on one side to simmer slowly; add to it carrots, onions, cloves, 
a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and half a bottleful of white wine; allowit to 
boil for three hours, then drain, remove the cloth and cut off the rind. Lay the ham in a low braziere 
(Fig. 134) with half a bottleful of Madeira wine, a little brandy, and four tablespoonfuls of meat 
glaze (No. 402); finish cooking it in a slack oven, basting it often, and when the ham is of a fine 
color, and the liquid reduced, dress and decorate with a frill (No. 10). Strain and reduce the 
stock with some espagnole sauce (No. 414); cover the bottom of the dish with a third part of this 
_ sauce, serve seperately the other two-thirds in a sauce-boat. 

After the ham has been dressed, surround it with a garnishing of carrots cut into small pear- 
shape, blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a), then a little sugar added and fallen to a glaze; 
pour in a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), add a piece of butter just when ready to serve. 

Stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), stuffed mushrooms (No. 692), or any other garnishing may be 
substituted, serving with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. 


(1791), HAM WITH SPINACH—BOILED (Jambon Bouilli aux Epinards). 


Take a fine freshly salted, smoked ham, pare the meats also the fat, which should be exceed- 
ingly white; suppress the hip bone, saw off the knuckle bone and then unsalt the ham in 
a plentiful supply of water for twenty-four hours. If it should have been dried and salted 
for some time prior to the day of using. then it will require thirty-six hours of unsalting. Wash, 
drain and tie it ina towel. Five hours before serving lay it in a large braziere or soup pot with 
four tires its volume of cold water, adding four quartered carrots, two onions containing six 
cloves, a bunch of parsley garnislied with thyme, bay leaf, basil and mace, then let it boil and sim- 
mer slowly for four hours more cz less, according to the weight and size of the ham, calculating a 
quarter of an hour for each pound. To be assured that it is properly cooked, run the tip of a 
skewer into the flesh and if it can be withdrawn at once the ham is sufficiently done. Remove the 
braziere or pot from the fire half an hour before serving; drain the ham on a dish, take off the 
towel and pare the rind and fat tastefully; clean the handle bone thoroughly cutting off the meat 
for about two and a half inches from the end, then set it in the oven to dry the surface. Garnish 
the top of the fat with a thin layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), containing lobster butter, 
and arrange in the center of this a fanciful decoration of pistachioes, truffles, ete., cover with but- 
tered paper. Set the ham in the oven to poach the foreemeat, or if preferred glazed, then replace 
it by a glaze made by besprinkling the fat with sugar and glazing it of a fine reddish color. 
Dress the ham on a garnishing of spinach (No. 2821), trim the handle with a frill (No. 10) and lay 
around som? triangle-shaped crofitons fried in butter; serve with a Madeira sauce (No. 492). 
Instead of chopped spinach, English spinach (No. 2823) may be used. Serve a half-glaze sauce. 
{No. 413) separately. 


(1792), VIRGINIA HAM WITH STRINGED EGGS Gambon de Virginie aux Gufs Filés), 


This dish is a favorite one among Spanish people. Select the ham from a young pig, pare 
and cook it the same as the boiled ham with spinach (No. 1791); when done, drain and cut off the 
rind, pare the upper surface evenly, and wipe the fat over with a cloth, besprinkle with a thin layer of 
powdered sugar and glaze it either under a salamander (Fig.123) or in a very hot oven. Trim the 
handle with a frill (No. 10) and dress on alow, carved rice socle, placed on a long dish. Break six- 
teen fresh eggs, place the yolks in a bowl and pound them without beating, then rub them through 
a strainer, and to poach them resemble coarse vermicelli; for this result it is necessary to have an 
oblong, wide-mouthed strainer, its aperture being six inches long by three wide and two inches 
and a half deep; the bottom must be furnished with six tin tubes shaped iike a socket, having an 
opening at the »%ottom an eighth of an inch or less wide and soldered on the outside. Have a 


576 THE EPICUREAN. 


sugar pan of sufficient size and half full of twelve degrees hot syrup; keep the strainer on top of 
this boiling syrup, and pour the strained eggs into it, letting them fall through into the syrup; as 
quickly as they harden lift them out and spread in a sieve dampened with water, so that these 
strings do not adhere to one another, then dress them around the ham. Madeira sauce (No. 492) 


may be served separately. 


(1793), PIGS’ HEADS WITH PUREE OF SPLIT GREEN PEAS (Téte de Cochon & la Purée de Pois 
Verts Secs), : , 

Cut a pig’s head into pieces, bone, singe and parboil; refresh and finish cooking it in 
white stock (No. 182); when done and ready to serve, drain out the meats, wipe them dry, and dress 
on a rather consistent purée of split green peas (No. 724) having it well seasoned and finished 
with a piece of good butter. Send to the table with a sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 
This dish can also be served with a piquante sauce (No. 538), or else a Robert sauce 
(No. 538). 


(1794), KERNEL OF HAM A LA BIARRITZ (Noix de Jambon & la Biarritz) 

A kernel of ham is sufficient for eight persons. Soak it for eight hours in cold water, pare 
lightly and wrap up in a small cloth; put 1t into a saucepan with plenty of cold water and bring the 
liquid slowly to a boil; remove the saucepan to the corner of the range, so that the liquid simmers 
on one side only, it taking in all about two to three hours according to the size. Leave it in 
the water half an hour before serving, then drain, suppress the rind, trim the meat and fat care- 
fully, and dress it on a risot prepared as follows: Fry colorless two spoonfuls of onions, add a 
quarter of a pound of unwashed but clean rice, and warm it with the onions; wet it to three times 
its heighth with stock (No. 194a), boil and let cook in the oven without disturbing whatever until all 
the liquid is absorbed, then stir in a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168). Have six 
scalded tomatoes, twenty-four cooked mushroom heads, and sixteen small Chipolatasausages fried in 
butter (No. 657). When the rice becomes dry, pour overit four ounces of hazelnut butter (No. 567). 
Drain the ham, pare and glaze it over with a brush; lay the rice on the bottom of a dish, the ham 
on top and surround with the sausages and mushroom heads stewed in cream, placing santéd sweet 
Spanish peppers, and the scalded tomatoes cut in two, pressed and fried in butter at the ends. A 
Madeira sauce (No. 492), should be served separately. 


(1795), KERNEL OF PORK A LA CAVOUR AND WITH NOODLES—SLICED (Tranches de Noix de 
Pore a la Cavour et aux Nouilles), 

Cut from the kernel part of a young, fresh pig, some slices to weigh four ounces each, beat to 
flatten to half an inch in thickness, then trim them round-shaped; they should now weigh three 
ounces each; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, sautéthem rare. Reduce some thick espagnole 
(No. 414); add to it fine cooked herbs (No. 885), and let it get cold; cover both sides of the slices 
with this and roll them in bread-crumbs, then immerse in beaten eggs and roll in bread-crumbs 
for the second time; smooth the breading nicely and fry in clarified butter. Have a spaghetti 
garnishing containing shredded mushrooms, clear gravy (No. 414), and ready prepared tomato 
paste, to be found at Italian grocers, and grated parmesan; pour this macaroni on a dish and 
dress the slices of pork on top. These slices may also be dressed on top of a garnishing of noodles 
fried in butter, and serve a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 418) separately. 


(1796), LOIN OF PORK A LA REGLAIN (Longe de Porc 4 la Reglain), 

Trim a loin of pork cut off from the first rib as far down as the ham, leaving but a quarter of 
an inch of fat on its surface; rub this over with salt and leave it so for twenty-four hours; wash, 
drain and wipe, then set it in a saucepan with melted fat, minced onions and garnished parsley. 
Place the saucepan on the fire to brown the meat slowly, and when a fine color moisten to a quarter 
of its height with stock (No 194a), bring to a boil aud finish cooking in the oven. Half an hour be- 
fore serving plunge one pound of rice in boiling water; set it on the fire and at the first boil take it 
off to pour in some cold water to stop the boiling, then return it to the fire and remove again at 
the first boil, now cover the saucepan and leave the liquid to simmer without letting it actually 
boil for ten minutes longer. Pour-the rice ona sieve, drain it well and put it back into the 
saucepan with half the meat stock; boil it up then set it in a moderate oven; the rice ought to ab- 
sorb the stock, and when well cooked press it into a border mold (Fig. 139) previously dipped in 
cold water, then unmold it. Cut the loin up into about two ounce pieces without any bones and 
scarcely any fat; pare them into quarter inch ‘squares; reduce the remaining stock with as much 
velouté (No. 415), add the meat, season with a dash of prepared red pepper (No. 168), heat well then 
dish the meat up inside a border and pour the sauce over; dredge with chopped parsley and serve. 





PORK. dv% 


(1797). QUARTER OF PORK VALENCIENNES (Quartier de Porc & la Valenciennes), 

Have a quarter of a young pork, salted for eight days without any saltpetre, and when ready” 
for use wash it well in cold water; remove the hip bone, tie it up and cook it in water; when three- 
quarters done drain, suppress the rind and finish cooking in the oven, and glaze with some clear 
gravy (No. 402) and white wine. Dress it on a long dish, trim the handle with a frill or ruffle 
{No. 10) and garnish around with risot (No. 739) in which two pounds of sausages have been 
boiled, finishing with a pinch of Spanish red pepper; at each end lay stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), 
the rice on the sides, the slices of sausages on top. Cover the meat with an espagnole savee 
(No. 414) well reduced with tomato sauce (No. 549) and seasoned with prepared red pepper; (No~ 
168); serve at the same time a sauce-boat of the same sauce. 


(1798), RACK OF PORK GROWN-SHAPED WITH SMALL ONIONS (Carré de Porc en Couronne 
aux Petits Oignons), 


Cut off two racks containing six cutlets each, both the same length and height, leaving on a part 
of the loin; suppress the chine bone as far as the beginning of the ribs and lay the meats in around 
or oval deep dish so that the kernel of the chops be inside and the ends of the cutlets outside; tie: 
the ends together with a piece of string and fill the inside of the crown thus obtained with sausage: 
forcemeat into which has been mixed eggs and bread-crumbs, then cook in the oven for an hour and. — 
a half. Fry sixty small onions or more in butter, having them only slightly browned, then finish: 
cooking in stock (No. 194a) till they fall to a glaze; dress and glaze the crown, garnish the center- 
with onions and pour a Robert sauce (No. 533) over the whole, or a Provencal sauce (No. 529) to 
which add alittle tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(1799), RACK OF PORK ON THE SPIT (Carré de Porc 4 la Broche), 


Cut a rack of fresh pork containing six to eight ribs; leave it covered a quarter of an inch 
thick with its own fat and pare the chine bone; saw it off as far as the edges of the ribs, separate: 
the adhering meat on top of the ribs and cut them so they are only two and a half inches long;. 
score the top into lozenges, roll over the flap and tie up the rack with eight rows of string; lay it 
on the spit and leave it to cook for about an hour, basting it occasionally. Glaze, dress and serve= 
over some clear gravy No. (404). 


(1800), RACK OF PORK WITH STUFFED PEPPERS (Carré de Pore aux Piments Farcis), 


Obtain a rack of pork containing eight ribs with the breast; remove the chine bone, and saw~ 
it off at the beginning of the ribs, bone also the breast leaving on only two and a half inches of © 
the ribs; remove the fat all but a quarter of an inch and score this into lozenges. Roll over the~ 
flap, tie and set the meat in a china dish, season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, parsley and: 
round slices of onion, pouring over some sweet oil and lemon juice. Wrap the rack and its: 
marinade in several sheets of buttered paper, lay it in a baking pan, besprinkle with fat. and cook 
it in a sufficiently hot oven for one hour. Twenty minutes before serving unwrap and leave the- 
meat in the oven to brown and glaze to a fine color. Place the vegetables in a saucepan with some- 
-espagnole sauce (No. 414) and white wine; skim off the fat and reduce. Dress the rack,.. 
surround it with stuffed peppers (No. 2768), and pour some of the sauce over, serving the remain-- 
der at the same time but separately. 


(1801), SAUSAGES OHIPOLATA (Saucisses & 1a Chipolata), 


Push some sausage meat (No. 68) into a sheep’s casing being careful not to fill it too much;~ 
twist it into small inch to inch and a half lengths, turning each sausage in a contrary direction, 
the first to the right, the second to the left, and so on to the end; in this way the sausages keep 
together better while cooking. Prick the casing with a larding or any other needle. Cook on a 
slow fire and dress on a chipolata garnishing (No. 657). 


(1802), SAUSAGES GASTRONOME (Saucisses au Gastronome, 


Garnish the inside edge of a pie-dish with a border of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) laid on througtr 
a cornet; set on the bottom a layer of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), over this long sausages prepared 
with chopped truffles after pricking them, and cover the whole with an Italian sauce (No. 484} 
containing truffles; bestrew the surface with bread raspings and a pinch of grated parmesan, 
pour butter over and cook in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, until the sausages be welk 


done and browned. 


578 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1803). SAUSAGES IN BAGS (Saucisses en Sac), 

Make some muslin bags twelve inches long by two and a half inches in diameter; fill them up 
with cold American sausage meat (No. 68), then cut them across bag and forcemeat together in half 
inch thick slices; remove the muslin, bread-crumb the pieces and broil or fry them in butter in the 

pan or else place in a little water in a frying pan and boil, then finish cooking in a moderate oven 
or on a Slow fire. . 


(1604). SAUSAGES WITH CREAM POTATOES, BAKED (Saucisses aux Pommes de Terre Hachées 
a la Créme Gratinées), 

Have some pork forcemeat the same as sausage forcemeat (No. 69); for each pound of this 
forcemeat mix in four ounces of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and half a pint of béchamel (No. 409), also 
‘a little meat glaze (No. 402); thicken the whole with six egg-yolks; use this forcemeat to fill small 
sheep’s casings previously salted, being careful not to have them too full, then twist the sausages 
into five inch lengths. Garnish the bottom of a deep baking dish with chopped potatoes and 
cream (No. 2780); lay the sausages on top after frying them for one minute in hot frying fat, 
pour oversome thick velouté sauce (No. 415) and bestrew with bread-crumbs and grated cheese; baste 
with melted butter and set the dish in a very hot oven to bake for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until 
browned to a fine color. 


(1805), SAUSAGES—FLAT—WITH TOMATO SOUBISE SAUCE (Saucisses Plates & la Sauce 


| Tomate Soubise), 

Roll some sausage meat into four ounce balls and wrap these up in ‘‘ crepinette ” or caul fat; 
shape them into slightly lengthened flat pieces. There canbe some parsley, tarragon or other herbs 
added to the sausage meat according to taste. Dip-them in melted butter, then roll in bread- 
crumbs, and broil over a slow fire, afterward dress on a purée of tomatoes (No. 730), mingled with 
soubise sauce (No. 548). 


(1806). SAUSAGES WITH TRUFFLES (Saucisses aux Truffes), 

Take two pounds of fresh pork meat from the neck; remove carefully all the fibrous parts 
retaining as much meat as fat; season with an ounce and a half of salt, a teaspoonful of freshly 
ground allspice, and add four ounces of truffles cut in small dice or finely chopped. Make sausages 
of this preparation, broil and dress them on a garnishing of minced truffles mingled with supreme 
sauce (No. 547). 


(1807), SAUSAGES LONG—WITH WHITE WINE (Saucisses Longues au vin Blanc), 
Prepare some five or six inch length sausages the same as the Chipolata (No. 1801), prick them 
with a small larding needle, fry in fresh butter, and when cooked dress on a dish; drain the 
butter from the sautoir and replace it by white wine, chablis, sauterne or champagne, one or the 
other, extending the sauce with velouté sauce (No. 415); boil it up once, strain through a tammy, 
and finish with lemon juice and fresh butter; pour it over the sausages. 


(1808), SPARE RIBS, PARISIAN STYLE (Petit Salé a la Parisienne). 
Take some of the breast ribs of a pig and salt them for twelve hours in a light eight degree 
‘brine; remove and wash off in cold water. To cook them it is better to take an already salted 


broth, one in which a ham or any other meat has been boiled. When this reaches boiling point, 
throw in the ribs and leave to cook without boiling. 


(1809). SUCKLING PIG, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (ochon de Lait & la Piémontaise), 


Pick and wash two pounds of rice; parboil and lay asidea third part, then put it into a sauce- 
pan with strained unskimmed stock (No. 194a) reaching to more than twice its heighth, season witha 
dittle salt, pepper and nutmeg, and when the rice is cooked which will take about half an hour, stir 
in with a fork, four tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan. Stuff the inside of the pig with this, sew 
it up and cook it on a cradle spit or in the oven, basting it over frequently with sweet oil. Three- 
quarters of an hour before serving, set the other two-thirds of rice in a saucepan, moisten it with 
stock (No. 194a) and half a pound of chicken fat, adding also a bunch of parsley garnished with 
thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic, bring to a boil, place in the oven and when the rice is cooked, 
remove thé parsley and stir in with a fork, fresh butter, meat glaze, grated parmesan and mig- 
nonette. Dress this rice around the suckling pig and serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. 


. * 


PORK, >: - 579 


(1810), SUCKLING PIG, ROASTED ON THE SPIT, OR STUFFED AND ROASTED (Cochon de 
Lait Roti 4 la Broche ou Farci), 

Empty well a scalded pig, truss the limbs and head, run it on the spit and roast before a 
good fire, basting it over with a large brush wet with oil. The great difficulty is to have it a 
beautiful color while cooking to perfection. It should take from an hour and a half to two hours, 
having the skin crackling browned and crisp. When the pig is cooked dress on a large dish and 
surround with water-cresses seasoned with salt and vinegar, serve at the same time a sauce-boatful 


of clear gravy (No. 404), or one of mint sauce (No. 616) or else both, and a vegetable dish of Naples 
style macaroni (No. 2959). 


Suckling Pig Stuffed and Roasted.—The pig may be stuffed with an American bread stuffing 
(No. 61), in this case it will be necessary to cook it for half an hour longer. 


(1811), SUCKLING PIG, SALTED AND SMOKED WITH SAUERKRAUT (Cochon de Lait Salé et 
Fumé a la Choucroute), 

_ Empty and scald a suckling pig and keep it for ten days in plenty of brine con- 
taining four ounces of sage, four ounces of thyme, and half an ounce of bay leaf; drain dry and 
smoke it to a yellow color with sawdust into which mix a little sage. Boil the pig in water a 
quarter of an hour for every pound, dress when well drained on a bed of sauerkraut (No. 2819); gar- 
nish with the bacon, sausages, sliced carrots, and Chipolata sausages. A very rich clear gravy 
(No. 404) is to be served separately. 


(1812), TENDERLOIN OF PORK A LA MINUTE—MINOED (Emincé de Filet de Porca la Minute). 


Have some cooked, cold, and well trimmed tenderloins of pork, cut in half heart-shapes; put 
them in a sautoir with a little gravy (No. 404) and heat up without boiling. Cover either of these 
meats with the following sauce: Fry a finely chopped shallot in butter, add to it some bread-crumbs 
and raw fine herbs; moisten with a little gravy, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with 
kneaded butter (No. 579). Just when prepared to serve, pour in a little diluted mustard; dress 
the mince, and pour the sauce over. 


(1813), TENDERLOIN OF PORK A LA PRINTANIERE (Filet de Porc a la Printanidre), 


The tenderloin is the long, narrow plump piece of meat laying under the kidney along the 
spinal bone; it is a part of the loin; it weighs from half a pound toa pound. Have four fine whole 
pork tenderloins; pare, remove the sinews and lard them with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), line 
a sautoir with bardes of fat pork, sliced carrots and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished 
with thyme and bay leaf. Lay the larded tenderloins on top, moisten with a pint of stock (No. 
194a) and a gill of Madeira, cover with a round piece of buttered paper, reduce and let the 
liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more until it reaches half the heighth of the meat, then cook for 
one hour or more in the slow oven; glaze and dress on a rice foundation an inch and a half high, 
garnish around with small carrots cut in the shape of cylinders or pears, balls of turnips, both 
blanched and cooked in broth, olive form potatoes, green peas and asparagus tops. Skim the fat 
from the surface of the stock, strain and reduce it with some espagnole sauce (No. 414), strain it 
once more through a tammy and cover the meat witha part of this, serving the remainder in a 
sauce-boat. 


(1814). TENDERLOIN OF PORK, BLANQUETTE OR ESCALOPED, WITH MUSHROOMS OR 
TRUFFLES (Blanquette de Filet de Porc, ou Escalopes aux Champignons ou aux Truffes). 
Have two pounds of the tenderloin of fresh pork; pare in order to remove the sinewy skin 
covering it, also the fat, cut up into one and a quarter inches in diameter escalops, an eighth of 
an inch thick; place them as soon as ready in a liberally buttered saute-pan, and season over with 
salt. Cut across in slices one pound and a half of large mushroom heads; add to the meat and cover 
entirely with melted butter, and a round piece of paper, and when prepared to serve, place them 
on a brisk fire to stiffen only, turning them over to finish cooking; drain off the butter, and add in 
its place, a few spoonfuls of velouté sauce (No. 415) a little chicken glaze (No. 398) and lemon 
juice, finally thickening with egg-yolks, butter, and cream. Dress the whole on a rice border. 
With Truffies.—Replace the mushrooms by fresh truffles if procurable. 


580 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1815), TENDERLOIN OF PORK, MARINATED (Filet de Pore Mariné), 


Pare several pork tenderloins; split them in two lengthwise, then beat and trim; lard them» 
with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), salt over, and range in a deep dish; cover with acooked cold. 
marinade (No. 114), and leave the tenderloins in this for twenty-four hours, being careful to turn 
them over at frequent intervals, then drain, wipe dry, and lay them in a sautoir lined with frag- 
ments of fat pork, minced carrots and onions;. moisten slowly with stock (No. 194a), and reduce the- 
liquid gently to a glaze; remoisten several times, putting in very little at the time, until the meats are 
done, and then finish glazing in the oven. Dress the tenderloins, detach the glaze from the sautoir 
with a little clear gravy (No. 404) and two spoonfuls of the above marinade; thicken the whole- 
with some brown sauce (No. 414), reduce, and strain it over the tenderloins. Surround with 
half heart-shaped croftons fried in butter. 


(1816). PORK TENDERLOINS, PIMENTADE SAUCE (Filets de Porc Sauce Pimentade), — 


Pare the tenderloins and lard them with medium lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52). Fry some mirepoix. 
(No. 419) in butter, moisten it with Madeira wine and let. get cold; cover the tenderloins with this. 
and wrap them up in several sheets of buttered paper, then roast.in a hot oven for twenty minutes; 
unwrap, glaze, and let attain a good color. Prepare a pimentade sauce (No. 521) reduced with. 
the mirepoix; pour some of this sauce under the tenderloins and. serve some separately. 


(1817), TENDERLOINS OF PORK, ROASTED, BROILED OR SAUTED (Filets de Pore Rotis, Grillés. 
ou Sautés), 


Roasted.—Take small pork tenderloins; pare them nicely and lard with fine lardons (No. 3, 
Fig. 52); marinate them while raw for two hours, then roast for twenty minutes in a quick oven. 
Dress and pour their own gravy over, after straining and skimming it, surround with water-. 
cresses. 


Broiled, Maitre-d’ Hotel Butter.—Pare the tenderloins, then split them lengthways in two 
without detaching the pieces; season with salt and mask with butter; roll them in bread-crumbs,. 
and broil over a moderate fire, then cover with maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581). 


Sautéd Half-Glaze.—Cut them whistle-shaped in two lengthwise, beat and pare into half- 
hearts, season with salt and sauté on a moderate even fire; drain off the fat, detach the glaze with. 
a little. Madeira and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce, dress the tenderloins and pour the gravy 
over... 3 


(1818),. PORK. TENDERLOINS WITH PUREE OF OELERY—BREADED (Filets de Pore Panés &. la. 
: Purée de Céleri), 


Pare some pork tenderloins suppressing. all fat and sinews, then cut them into lengthwise bias. 
slices and trim into half hearts; season each piece with salt, dip into melted butter and 


roll in white bread-crumbs; broil over a bright fire and when done dress them over a purée of’ 
celery (No. 711). 


(1819), PIGS’ TONGUES, PROVENQAL STYLE (Langues de Cochon & la Provencale), 


Prepare and cook some salted tongues; when they are cold cut them lengthwise in two. Pare- 
eight peeled onions by cutting off the roots and stalks on the slant; mince them up finely and fry 
colorless in oil, moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, add salt, pepper, a clove of garlic 
and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 128); boil and cook on a slow fire for one hour then remove 
all the fat and the parsley, and reduce with some thick béchamel (No. 409), pass through a tammy. 
When this is cold cover each half tongue on the flat side with a part of this preparation after: 
paring them all one size; besprinkle with some gastrite (No. 1187), heat and brown in the oven to- 
a fine color, then dress ina circle and fill the inside with sautéd sweet peppers (No. 2769), and 


around with stuffed onions (No. 2766). A tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 418), 
reduced together is to be served separately. 





eC) ae 551 


1820). ZAMPINO, MODENA STYLE, WITH STRING BEANS—STUFFED (Zampino Farci a la 
Modéne aux Haricots Verts), 


Zampino is the foot of a young pig, including a part of the leg stuffed (Fig. 352). Let this salt for 
‘twelve days in brine, and when needed for use soak it for three or four hours; scrape the rind and 
























































prick it with a larding needle to prevent breaking while cooking; wrap it up in a thin cloth, tie it 
at both ends and in the middle, and lay the leg in a braziere covering over with cold water; let it 
‘simmer for two hours or more and when the pointed end is done take out the leg, unwrap and 
serve over a garnishing of string beans. Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced 
with white wine. For the preparation of the Zampino see hams of chicken with Zampino 
(No. 2525). 





Pew PRY CV olailte). 





(1821), CAPON A L’AMPHITRYON (hapon & l’Amphitryon), 


A capon is a castrated cock fattened for the table; truss a good capon as for an entrée (No. 
178) selecting it white and very fat, fill the inside with a delicate quenelle forcemeat (No. 89)« 
with truffles into which mix some chestnuts roasted in the oven and broiled Chipolata sausages. 
after removing their skins, and stoned verdal olives; rub the breast over with half a lemon, then cover: 
with bards of fat pork. Cook the capon as for poéler (No. 12) and when done, dress on a rice: 
foundation and garnish around with clusters of channeled mushrooms (No. 118) with half-glaze: 
stuffed tomatoes, and whole truffles with glaze (No. 402), a little Madeira and butter, strain the 
stock, free it of its fat and reduce with the same quantity of velouté (No. 415). Insert three- 
skewers garnished with glazed truffles and crawfish on top and serve the sauce separately. 


(1822), CAPON A LA BRESSOISE (Chapon a la Bressoise), 


Singe, draw and clean well a fine capon; make a forcemeat by soaking a pound of bread-- 
crumbs in milk, then pressing out all the liquid and adding seasoning and eight ounces of 
very finely chopped beef marrow and three whole eggs. Stuff, truss and tie up the capon as for an: 
entrée (No. 178). Place in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of lard and half a pound of fresh fat 
pork cut up in quarter inch squares, lay the capon on top and brown it slowly, then wet with some: 
stock (No. 194a) and simmer, adding more liquid when needed until thoroughly cooked. Strain the: 
gravy, free it of fat and untie the capon, dressing it in the middle of an oval dish, pour the well- 
reduced gravy over, serving a poulette sauce (No. 527) separately. 


(1823). CAPON A LA FINANOIERE (Chapon & Ja Financidre), 


This relevé is dressed on an oval wooden bottom having in the center a four-sided tin support: 
made hollow so that it be lighter. This wooden bottom and support must both be covered with a 
cooked paste or else of noodle paste (No. 142) dried in the air. Fasten a string of noodle paste of 
about three-eighths of an inch in diameter on the edge of the socle; this is intended for upholding 
the capons and garnishing. On the edge of the bowl of the plate, place a noodle paste border (No. 
10). Prepare the capons as for an entrée (No. 178) having them stuffed with a stuffing made of 
cooked chicken livers, grated fresh lard, truffle parings, bread-crumbs, salt and cayenne pepper. 
Cover over with bards of fat pork placed in a narrow braziere (Fig. 134) moisten with sufficient: 
stock (No. 194a) to cover the capons, add aromatic herbs and lemon pulp free of seeds and peel, 
then cook on a good fire, having the liquid reduce to one-third, at the last moment drain off the 
capons, untie and dress one on each side of the support inserting a garnished skewer on top; fill in 
the sides between the capons with a varied garnishing composed of mushrooms, cocks’-combs and 
quenelles; cover over either with a velouté sauce (No. 415) if needed for white or a financiére sauce 
(No. 464) if for brown; surround the base with a row of peeled truffles cooked in wine and glazed 
over with a brush, and serve apart a velouté sauce reduced with mushroom broth if for the white 
or else a brown financiére sauce with Madeira. . 


, (1824), OAPON A LA PONDICHERY (Chapon & la Pondichéry) 

i “Draw, singe and truss a capon for an entrée (No. 178), chop up finely a few onions, fry them 
colorless in butter, add #0 it’ some rice and moisten to three times its height with beef stock (No. 
194a) seasoning with cayenne pepper, salt and butter; let boil then cook in the oven for twenty 
minutes, — Line a buttered saticepan with carrots, onions and slices of fat pork, lay the capon on top 
and moisten with a little stock (No. 194a); let this reduce entirely then add more moistening and a 
bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the capon is done strain the stoek,, 
remove the fat and add it to the capon to keep it warm. Reduce the skimmed stock with velouté 
sauce (No. 415), curry, saffron and powdered sweet Spanish peppers; dress the rice on the bottom 
of a dish, lay the capon on top and cover it with a third of the sauce, serving the other two-thirds. 


in a separate sauce-boat. 
(583) 


584 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1825). CAPON A LA REGENCE (Chapon & la Régence), 

Singe, draw, and remove the breast bones from two capons; fillthe breasts with seasoned ‘utter, 
then truss as for an entrée (No. 178); lard the breasts with fine lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), ani cover 
the unlarded parts with slices of fat pork. Put the capons in a covered braziere (Fig. 14), and 
moisten them with mirepoix (No. 419), to a little above their wings; cover over with buttered 
paper, and leave to simmer slowly for one hour. Uncover the braziere, take off the paper, and glaze 
all the larded parts. Have four larded sweetbreads, ten large truffles, twelve fine cocks’-combs, 
and eight big crawfish. Make a garnishing with chicken quenelles and mushrooms, combining 
these with some régence sauce (No. 532). Out a piece of bread-crumb ten and a half inches long by 
four and a quarter wide, and three and a half inches high, it to be conical-formed; fry this, then 
attach it to the center of a dish with repére paste (No. 142), so that it can support the two capons; 
have these well drained and arrange them to rest against the bread, the rump parts uppermost. 
Pour the prepared garnishing into the bottom of the dish; place two large sweetbreads below the two 
breasts, and two more in the middle intersections, then two crawfish on each side of the sweet- 
breads; glaze the sweetbreads and the larded parts of the capon and serve with a régence sauce 
apart. Make six hatelets with the cocks’-combs and the truffles (Fig. 11), and fasten them in taste- 


fully. 


(1826), CAPON LEGS WITH TRUFFLES. ROAST CAPON (Cuisses de Chapon aux Truffes, Chapon 
Roti). 

Bone entirely six legs taken from medium-sized and very tender capons; remove carefully the 
sinews, then season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 
into which mix half as much small squares of foies-gras; sew them up and braise in a mirepoix and 
white wine stock (No. 419); moisten slowly, being most careful to baste frequently, and: when done, 
‘withdraw the threads, glaze and dress the legs on the strained and skimmed stock. Serve separately 
a Supreme sauce (No. 547), with sliced truffles added. | my = 

Roast Capon.—Stand the capon on the grate fitting in the roasting pan; for this see the plate 
in roasted sirloin of beef (Fig. 306); have the bird trussed for roasting (No. 179). .The grater is 
‘used so that the meat does not lie in the dripping, this being the best way to attain perfect results 
in roasting, but attention must be paid to keep turning it over and basting frequently with 
the dripping fat; care must also be observed not to allow this fat to burn, and in order to avoid this 
‘pour a little hot water from time to time into the pan. After the capon is nicely done, withdraw 
‘untruss, and serve it on a very hot dish; drain off all the fat so that only the glaze remains in the 
pan, detach this with a clear gravy (No. 404), strain the gravy, remove the fat and pour a part of 
it over the capon, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. 5 


CHICKEN (Poulet), 


(1827), CHICKEN BREASTS A LA CHEVREUSE (Estomacs de Poulet & la Chevreuse), 
Dip the breasts of two or three chickens in boiling water, lard them with some fillets of ham, 
and truffles cut the size shown (No. 4, Fig. 52), braise and as soon as cooked drain and arrange 
them against a triangle-shaped bread support; between each chicken lay a group of truffles, one 
of olives and another of quenelles; pour some supréme sauce (No. 547) around them and serve 
more in a sauce-boat. cree 


(1828), OHICKEN A LA DELISLE—BROILED (Poulet - Grillé 
& la Delisle), 


Split a chicken in two through the back after having drawn, 
‘singed and cleansed it well; trim it nicely, remove the lights and 
season with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168), dip in melted 
butter, then roll in bread-crumbs and broil overa slow fire; serve 
‘on a garnishing prepared as follows: Peel four medium tomatoes, 
cut them in four, press out the seeds and fry in butter with finely 
shredded green peppers, adding a little kneaded butter (No. 579), 
fet simmer until thoroughly done. Prepare a low oval border of oe 
Piedmontese risot (No. 789) with parmesan: unmold on a dish 5 Net 
and lay the tomatoes in the center with the broiled chicken on top; trim the drum sticks with frills 
(No. 10), and serve very hot. 





POULTRY. 585 


(1829), CHICKEN A LA IRVING—BROILED AND STUFFED (Poulet Farci et Grillé a la 
Irving). 

Procure very young chickens each one to weigh a pound and a quarter; draw, singe and clean 
them well picking out all the pin feathers; split them in two through the back, and take off the 
meat from the legs without injuring the skin; chop up this meat with the same quantity of fresh 
fat pork, a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and half as much bread-crumbs; season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding one whole egg; lay this dressing in the inside part of the chickens, 
cover with melted butter and besprinkle with bread-crumbs; lay them on a double hinged broiler 
to broil very slowly but to a fine color. ‘Fry colorless one tablespoonful of onions with as much 
small squares of raw ham; moisten with a gill of veal blond (No. 423), a gill of espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), and a gill of tomato purée (No. 730); let the whole simmer for ten minutes, then strain 
the sauce through a fine sieve and pour it into the bottom of the dish; sprinkle over with chopped 
parsley and lay the stuffed chickens on top. 


(1830), CHICKEN WITH BACON, MAITRE-D'HOTEL—BROILED (Poulet Grillé au Petit Salé a la 


Maitre-d’Hotel), 

Singe a good small chicken, draw and clean it well plucking out all the feathers; leave the 
pinions on; cut off the legs one inch below the joint and split the chicken down through the back 
to open it entirely; take out the breast bone and lights, clean the insides properly decreasing the 
bones of the carcass; beat the chicken in order to flatten it, and pare (Fig. 353), then lay it ina 
dish and baste with melted butter or oil; season with salt and place it in a double broiler to broil 
over a slow fire for fifteen to twenty minutes; after the chicken has acquired a fine color and is 
properly done, dress it on an oval hot dish and cover with some maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581), 
surround with slices of bacon and serve. 


(1831), CHIOKEN WITH TARRAGON GRAVY OR SAUCE—BROILED (Poulet Grillé au Jus & 


x 


PEstragon ou & la Sauce a |’Estragon), 


Draw a young pound and a half chicken, cut off the legs at the first joint, cut a slit in the 
chicken near the pope’s nose and pass the stump bone through the slit; split the chicken in two 
lengthwise, pare each part, beat down to flatten, season and roll in melted butter, then in 
white bréad-crumbs and broil on both sides turning over when the meats are found to be done. 
Dress the two half chickens on a hot dish garnish the leg bones with frills (No. 10), and serve 
with some good tarragon gravy orelse with tarragon sauce (No. 548). 


(1832). GHICKEN COCOTTE (Poulet en Cocotte), 

Cut up one small :pound and,a.quarter to pound and a half chicken; season with pepper, only 
divide it into four parts, the two legs and the breast part cut 
in two; put the-pieces in the bottom of a cocotte (small earthen 
saucepan, Fig. 354) with a little piece of butter the size of a 
nut, placing the legs underneath and the breasts on top, add a 
small bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and 
over lay two ounces of unsmoked bacon. cut in five-eighths inch. 
squares blanched, then fried in butter, also a dozen and half 
pieces of potato-shaped like cloves of garlic and as many small 
raw onions fried toa light color in butter; lay here and there half 


an ounce more butter, put on the lid and push into a mader- 
ate oven for half an hour. The cocotte should stand directly on the bottom of the oven; turn 


the ingredients over carefully ranging the meat on top of the vegetables; let cook for another ten 
to fifteen minutes, then add a little clear gravy (No. 404) and chopped parsley; toss and serve in 


the cocotte itself. 





(1832), EPIGRAMMES OF CHICKEN A LA VOLNAY (Epigrammes de Poulet & 1a Volnay), 

Raise the fillets from four chickens, remove the minion fillets and skin, bone thoroughly and 
stuff the thighs, then put them into half heart-shaped bottomless molds three-eighths of an inch 
high, braise and leave to cool under the pressure of a weight; pare, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs 


586 THE EPICUREAN. 


and fry nicely, Sauté the breasts on a moderate fire, drain and dress them in a circle alternated 
with the thighs, decorate with fancy favor frills (No. 10); and fill the center with a garnishing of 
whole chestnuts, truffles, mushrooms and cover with velouté sauce (No. 415) that has been 
thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks and raw cream. 


(1834), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA BERANGER (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet 4 la 
Béranger), 


Raise the fillets or wings with the pinions attached from six roasted chickens of two pounds 
each, having them well larded and not too much cooked; pare nicely, suppressing the skin and lay 
them in a sautoir with well buttered cream béchamel (No. 411). Dress them in a circle with a 
crotiton of unsmoked red beef tongue between each piece. Add some mushroom heads to the 
béchamel and use them to fill in the center of the circle; lay on top half-spherical decorated chicken 
quenelles and garnish around with small half heart bread crofitons fried in butter and having their 
pointed ends dipped first in meat glaze (No. 402), then in chopped parsley. The word ‘‘ailes” 
should be used in preference to the word ‘‘ filets ” in making French menus, to avoid the ey 
of this word which appears so often in French. 


(1835), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA BODISKO (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Bodisko). 


Raise the large fillets from six two pound chickens; suppress the skin and split them in two 
through their thickness without detaching the parts; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill 
up the opened space with cooked fine herbs (No.385) mixed with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Break 
six egg-yolks in a dish, add two gills of melted butter and beat them together; dip the fillets into this 
and then roll them in bread-crumbs; lay them on a buttered baking pan, pour butter over and cook 
in a hot oven, then drain. Trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), and dress the fillets in 
a circle filling the center with cépes fried in butter, moistened. with sour cream and reduced. 
Serve separately a well buttered white bordelaise sauce (No. 436), thickening it with egg-volks and 
butter, straining it through a tammy. 


(1836). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA CERTOSA (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Cértosa), 


Clean well six good fleshy chickens; raise the fillets covered with their skin and sauté them in 
butter. Prepare a fine Julienne (No. 318) with the red part of carrots blanched in an abundance of 
water, drained and fried in butter with mushrooms, cut the same shape and size, and also some truffles 
cut likewise. Add the Julienne to the chickens, moisten with very little broth (No. 194a), and 
Marsala wine, cover the saucepan and let cook in aslack oven; baste and moisten the chicken slowly, 
and as soon as the sauce is found to be sufficiently reduced, thicken it with velouté sauce (No. 415), 
egg-yolks, and cream, then dress the fillets ina pyramid, and pour the sauce over; garnish around 
with bread-crumb crofitons cut heart-shaped, and fried in butter. 


(1837), PE ESN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA CHISELHURST (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet. a la 
Chiselhurst), 


Raise the fillets rie ‘Six two pouna chickens; pare, suppress the skin, and lard six of them 
with small shreds of lar ding pork (No. 3, Fig 52) and the other six with slices of truffles the same size 
as the pork; pare the minion fillets and lard six with smaller pork lardons than those used for the 
fillets, and the other six with small pieces of truffles cut the same size. Lay 
them in two separate buttered sautoirs, the truffles in one and . 
the larding pork in the other, having previously given the 
minion fillets the shape of a crescent. Cover over the truffied 

= fillets with thin lardon of fat pork, and cook those larded with 
Fic. 355. pork on a brisk fire while those with truffles are to be cooked 
more slowly. Dress in a circle alternating the two kinds, and 
fll the center with balls of truffle mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547). Place the truffle 
minions on top of the larded fillets and the larded minions on top of the trufiled fillets; cover 
with alight supréme sauce, serving some of the sauce in a sauce- -boat. 





Fic. 356. 


pa CED Te Ye: 587 


(1838), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA CUSSY (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Cussy) 


Pare twelve chicken fillets being careful to keep the minion fillets aside, beat these large fillets 
to flatten them, then pare into half hearts, rounded on one side and pointed on the other, season 
with salt and white pepper. Take the minion fillets, the parings and as much raw chicken meat and 
with it prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75), adding to it a quarter as much 
very fine mushroom purée (No. 722). Pour clarified butter into a sautoir, heat 
it well and range the chicken fillets on top simply to stiffen on one side only; 
drain them off leaving the butter in the pan and place the fillets on a baking 
sheet, one beside the other, cover with buttered paper and let get cold without 
any pressure, then pare. Cover these fillets with the cream forcemeat, smooth them well rounded on 
the top and range them once more in the sautoir containing the butter, place them’in the oven to 
finish cooking and to poach the forcemeat; brush them over with butter as soon as the forcemeat 
becomes sufficiently solid not to have them spoiled, then dress them rosette-shaped on a dish, 
garnishing each pointed end with a favor frill (No. 10). Serve witha well buttered supreme sauce 
(No. 547), part of it poured under the fillets and the other part served separately. 





(1839), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A L'ECARLATE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & 
VFEcarlate). 


Take the fillets from six medium chickens, remove all the skin and epidermis, detach the 
minion fillets and free them of the sinew and skin which covers them, streak them with pieces of 
beef tongue and form into rings and place ina buttered sautoir. Sauté the large fillets over a 
brisk fire with butter. Cut twelve slices of very red beef tongue into half hearts the size of the 
fillets and three-sixteenths of an inch thick; warm them in stock (No. 194a) and just when ready 
to serve, drain and decorate each fillet with a favor frill (No. 10), dress in a circle having them 
intercalated with the half-hearts of tongue. Poach the minion fillet rings, fill the inside of the 
circle with a garnishing composed of small mushroom heads, truffle balls and quenelles all mixed 
with velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with cream, and range the minion fillets around the whole; 
serve a well buttered velouté sauce separately. 


(1840), CHICKEN: FILLETS OR BREASTS, CHEVALET A WECUYERE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet 
| Chevalet & lEcuytre), 


Prepare the large fillets and minion fillets the same as for Harrison (No. 1844), lay them on 
sheets of tin bent into semicircles three inches by one and a half high, well 
buttered and maintain both fillets on this mold with wooden skewers run 
through holes bored in the tin, laying the streaked minion fillets on top of the 
larger fillets underneath (Fig. 358) baste over with butter and cook in a slow 
oan oven. ‘Truss some fine crawfish cooked a la bordelaise, dress them crown- 
Fic. 358. _shaped on a dish garnished with a tomato purée (No. 730) and lay the fillets 
of chickens on top of the crawfish; serve separately a bordelaise sauce (No. 

436) made with white wine and having three-sixteenths inch squares of mushrooms added. _ 





(1841), OHIOKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LIMPERATRICE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet Im- 
pératrice), | 


Procure six young chickens each one weighing about a pound and a half; lift off the breasts 
with the pinions and large fillets attached and suppress all sinews and skin. Chop the fillets.on 
both sides without penetrating through the flesh and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; dampen 
the surfaces with egg-white, besprinkle with very finely chopped truffies and over these spread a 
very thin layer of cream forcemeat (No. 79); dip in fresh bread-crumbs and lay them on a buttered 
sheet, pour butter over and cook in a hot oven. Make some croustades in halt heart-shaped but- 
tered bottomless molds lined with puff paste fragments (No. 149) rolled out thin; line them with but- 
tered paper and fill them with rice and then cook in a moderate oven; when done empty out and fill up 
with bits of celery cut in quarter-inch dice. blanched, cooked in broth and fallen to a glaze, then 
mingled with velouté sauce (No. 415) and thickened; when ready to use with egg-yolks diluted in 
cream and a few small pats of butter. Lay the breasts on top of these croustades, trim the pinions 


with paper frills (No. 10) and serve very hot. 


THE EPICUREAN. 


(os) 
CO 


(1842), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, EPICUREAN (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a VEpicurienne), 


Prepare the fillets of six young two-pound chickens, observing that they be white and tender; 
remove the skin and epidermis and lard them with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), place them 
in a buttered sautoir and let cook to attain color in a very hot oven, then drain and decorate with 
frills (No. 10). Streak each minion fillet with six round thin slices of truffles, 
roll them into rings and place them in a buttered sautoir to poach in the oven 
without coloring. Dress the large fillets on a forcemeat ring and decorate the 
outside with the minion fillets. Detach the glaze from the bottom of the sautoir 
with a little sherry wine, free it of all fat and add a little velouté sauce (No. 415); 
thicken just when ready to serve with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream and fresh butter; run the 
sauce through a tammy and pour a part over the breasts and minions and the balance in a sauce- 
boat. Make twelve five-eighths of an inch diameter balls with foies-gras taken direct from a terrine, 
rubbed through a sieve; dip them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in very hot frying fat; place 
one of these balls in the center of each minion fillet ring and serve at once. 





Fig. .359.. 


(1843), CHICKEN FILLETS OR WINGS A LA GENIN (Filets ou Ailes de Poulets & la Génin), 


Take the skin covered fillets from six chickens with the wings, and after paring them neatly, 
sauté them in butter over a good fire, seasoning with salt and pepper; when done and a fine color, 
add a little finely chopped shallots and let these fry with the chicken fillets, then add some finely 
minced fresh mushrooms; when these have evaporated their humidity, moisten with white wine and 
finish with a little chicken glaze(No. 398). Dress the wings on half heart-shaped bread crofitons fried: 
in butter; add a little velouté sauce (No. 415) to the sauce, reduce and season properly, finishing it 
with a little foies-gras; pass through a fine sieve, pour. over the fillets, sprinkle chopped parsley 
over and serve very hot. | 


(1844), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA HARRISON (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la 
Harrison) 

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets to the shape of half hearts; lift off the minion fillets and 
remove the sinews and fine skin which covers, then cut six bias incisions through half of the 
thickness of these minions and in each of them lay a thin round slice of truffle. Place the fillets 
in a buttered sautoir and the scored minions on top lengthwise, pour butter 
over and cover with a strong buttered paper; cook for ten to twelve minutes 
‘on a slow fire. Prepare some boned terrapin ala Maryland (No. 1085); spread a 
quarter inch thick layer of this on a baking sheet and when cold cut it up into 
oblong pieces, one and three-quarters wide by three and a half long; dip these 
pieces in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color; drain, wipe and dress the fillets flat on 
these terrapin crusts. Pour a little half-glaze (No. 400) with Madeira in the bottom of the dish 
and serve with a separate sauce-boat of espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which squeeze the juice of 
an orange, adding a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze (No. 402) and: plenty of Ce 





(1845), HSS FILLETS eek BPEASTS A LA LORENZO eects et Ailes di ‘Ponlets a la 
- Lorenzo). 

Raise the breasts with the fillets from six young, one paritda and three-quarters to ne pound 
‘chickens; lift'off the skin and epidermis, also the minion fillets; place the breasts on a buttered 
baking sheet with the minions scored with truffles on top, laying them along 
the thick edge of the breasts; pour over butter and cover with buttered 
paper, then cook in a moderate oven; garnish the minions with paper frills 
(No. 10). Dress crown-shaped ‘and fill the inside with a Lorenzo garnishing 
made.as follows: 

Fic. 361. Lorenzo Garnishing.—Have espagnole sauce (No. 414) with a few 
tarragon leaves added, celery cut in one inch pieces, blanched and cooked in 

broth (194a); blanched olives stoned and filled with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) containing ancho- 
vies, Whole chestnuts cooked in broth; artichoke bottoms pared into half hearts, five-six- 
teenths inch squares of truffles and some large capers. The border for chicken breasts & la Lo- 
renzo, are made oval and in the following manner: Butter a mold (Fig. 139) with butter softened 
without being melted; decorate the sides either with fanciful cuts of truffles, or tongue, or even 
both; fill it up with cream forcemeat (No. 75) or quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and lay this border 
1 a sautoir; pour boiling water around, set it in a slow oven and when poached, meaning whex 
‘firm to the touch, unmold and dress the breasts on top and the garnishing in the center. 





POULTRY. 7 589 


(1846) CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA LUCULLUS (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la. 
Lucullus), 


The large and the minion fillets are to be prepared as described in the Harrison fillets (No. 
1844), lay them in a buttered sautoir, twisting slightly so as to have them 
assume the shape of a chop; lay the minion fillets on the outside edge of the 
large fillet, mask with melted butter, cover with a strong buttered paper and 
cook in a slack oven for twelve to fifteen minutes; trim the pointed ends 
with favor frills (No. 10); dress the fillets in a circle filling up the inside with Fie, 362. 

a garnishing of truffles and tongue balls half an inch in diameter, also capon 
kidneys, all to be mixed with béarnaise sauce (No. 483) into which has been stirred a few spoonfuls. 
of meat-glaze (No. 402). ’ 





(1847). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA MARCEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la. 


-Marceau). 


Remove the breasts from six chickens each one of them to weigh from a pound and a half to. 
two pounds; suppress the skin and sinews and lift off the minion fillets to streak with truffles: 
pare the large fillets into half heart-shapes, and lay them in a buttered. 
sautoir; place the minion fillets on the outer edges, pour over butter, 
cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven. Fill with, 
cream chicken forcemeat (No. 75) some flat quarter inch thick half 
heart-shaped molds, placed on a sheet of buttered paper and poach very 
lightly, then sauté on both sides in butter and dress unmolded in a 
circle with the ficken fillets on top. Prepare a Marceau sauce (No. 495); when ready to serve add 
a little fresh butter; fill the middle of the circle with small mushroom heads fried in butter, 
cover over with a part of the sauce and send the remainder to accompany the dish poured into a. 





Fig. 363. 


‘separate sauce-boat. 


(1848), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS he TA MARECHALE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la. 
Maréchale), 


Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; remove the minion fillets, and suppress the senews and skin 
which covers them, then marinate in salt, pepper, parsley leaves, and lemon juice. Make an in- 
cision on one side of these large fillets, and fill it in with a Duxelle (No. 385), or else fine herbs. 
cooked with truffles; dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs, and baste with clarified butter; 
immerse them once more in the bread-crumbs, and put on them a buttered baking sheet; pour melted 
butter over, and brown in a brisk oven, or else broil over a slow fire, or even sauté them in clarified. 
butter; trim with favors (No. 10) and dress in a circle filling in the inside with a Toulouse gar- 
nishing (No. 766). Dip the minion fillets in a fine light frying batter (No. 187), roll them up into 
rings, and when fried and have attained a fine color, drain and dress pyramidically over the Tou- 
louse garnishing. A supréme sauce (No. 547) to be served separately. 


mY 


(1849), GHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA MIRABEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la 
Mirabeau), 

Beep the minion fillets when removing the fillets or wings from the chickens; suppress all the 
skin and sinews from the large fillets, take off the minion fillets and marinate the larger ones 
for two hours in a vessel containing salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, thyme, bay leaf, and pars- 
ley leaves, turning them over frequently; remove, drain, and roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, and 
lastly in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter. Pare the minion fillets into oblongs, spread over a 
layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No.89), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and roll them into eylin- 
der shapes, now range them inside a buttered timbale mold and let cook in aslow oven, Dress the 
chicken breasts in the center of a dish on top of a little Mirabeau sauce (No. 500), surround them 
with the prepared paupiettes, and on every one of these lay a channeled mushroom (No. 118) 
cooked and glazed in chicken glaze (No. 398). Serve with a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. 


590 ; THE EPICUREAN. 


(1850), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA PATTI (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Patti). 


Raise the large fillets from six young, two pound chickens that are quite fleshy, suppress the 
skin and epidermis; remove the minion fillets and from them the nerves and skin; streak these with 
red beef tongue. Out an incision through one side of the large fillets without detaching the parts; 
turn over so that the cut part is now outside; fill in the inside with quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89), into which incorporate some foies-gras pressed 
through a sieve; make the fillet oval-shape like an egg, and lay the 
streaked minion fillet along the top of it. Place in a buttered sautoir, 
cover each fillet with a thin slice of fat pork, and cook in a moderate oven. 
Prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75) border decorated with pistachios; poach, unmold, and dress with 
the fillets or breasts over, garnishing with favor frills (No. 10); fill the inside of this border with very 
thick, well buttered chicken purée (No. 713), into which add half the same quantity of rice boiled 
in almond milk (No. 4). Garnish around with sliced truffles heated in a little meat glaze (No. 
402), butter and Madeira, and serve with a sauce-boatful of supreme sauce (No. 547). 





Fig. 364. 


(1851), CHIOKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA PRIMATICE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la 
Primatice). . 


Clean and singe six two pound chickens; lift off the large fillets and detach the minions, remove 
the skin and epidermis from the large fillets and lay them in a buttered sautoir. Suppress the 
sinews from the minion fillets, also the fine skin which covers and cut six incisions at equal dis- 
tances on their length; insert an oblong piece of truffle into the first incision beginning at the 
smallest end; an oblong of tongue into the second incision, and so on, alternating them until the 
entire six are filled, then twist the minions into a round-shape and place them in a buttered sautoir; 
use a cornet to push into the centers some forcemeat having half quenelle (No. 89) and half cream 
(No. 75), both well mixed together and set a round piece of truifle on top, having it an eighth of an 
inch thick by three-quarters of an inch in diameter, pour over melted butter, cover over with 
strong buttered paper and cook in a slack oven for six to eight minutes. Sauté the large fillets 
on a quick fire, then dress them in a flat circle over crofitons of bread cut the same shape, but 
slightly narrower. On each fillet lay one minion fillet and fill the inside of the circle with a gar- 
nishing of fillets of mushrooms an eighth of .an inch wide by five-eighths of an inch long; green 
peas, lozenge-shaped string beans, the red part of a carrot cut in triangles, quarter of an inch 
squares of turnips, truffles cut olive-shaped, and semi-circular pieces of tongue, all of those 
being added to a little velouté (No. 415) and fresh butter. Have a half-glaze sauce (No. 418) with 
truffle essence (No. 395) served at the same time, but separately. ; 


(1852), OHIGKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA PRINGIERE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la 
Princiére), 


Choose six well-cleansed chickens, each one to weigh a pound and three-quarters to two 
pounds; remove the large fillets leaving the pinion on, with the bone kept rather long; lift off the 
minion fillets, also suppress the large fillets’ skin and the thin skin covering the minions; dip the 
latter in egg-whites, then roll in very finely chopped pistachios, pre- 
viously run through a sieve; twist them around the finger to form a 
circle and place them in a buttered sautoir; cover with a sheet of ‘but- 
tered paper and poach just when ready to serve only; this will take but 
five minutes on a moderate fire. Chop the surface of the large fillet 
without misshaping it whatever, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
then cover over with chicken forcemeat and dredge or throw over Fic. 365. 
finely chopped truffles, lay these in a buttered sautoir, shaping them all 
alike, six with the pinions on the right and six with the pinions on the left, then cook in a slack 
oven. When done remove and run a ring cut from beef tongue a quarter of an inch thick on 
the pinion bone and decorate this also with a frill (No. 10). Dress crown-shaped filling in the 
interior with a garnishing composed of cocks’-combs and kidneys, also slices of foies-gras, the 
whole combined with supreme sauce (No. 547). Poach the minion fillets and dress them around, 
serving with a sauce-boatful of the supreme sauce. 





asf 


*% 
: 


POULTRY. 591 


(1853). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA SADI-CARNOT (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la 
Sadi-Carnot), 


To be made with twelve breasts. Fry a chopped shallot in butter keeping it quite colorless 
and add to it two tablespoonfuls of finely minced truffles, three tablespoonfuls of minced fresh 
mushrooms and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; fry the whole for a few moments on the fire, 
then add a little chicken glaze (No. 398), season and let get partially cold before stirring in three 
raw egg-yolks. Remove the skin and epidermis from the breasts and cut five gashes on the top of 
the minion fillets; introduce in each gash a thin round of truffle half an inch in diameter form the 
fillets into rings and lay them in a buttered sautoir, filling their interiors with quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 89) and on top of this set a five-eighths of an inch round of truffle. Split the large fillets 
through their sides and fill them with the above preparation, then range them in a sautoir with 
clarified butter and lemon juice; sauté, drain, garnish with favor frills (No. 10) and dress in a 
circle on half heart-shaped crofitons of bread-crumbs fried in butter, cover with a tomato sauce 
(No. 549) and Béarnaise sauce (No. 433), mixed and garnish around the large fillets with the 
minion fillets, glazing the slices of truffles with meat glaze. 


(1854), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS ALA TOULOUSE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Tou- 
louse), 


Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; take off the minion fillets, cut in the large fillet a deep gash 
lengthwise without separating the pieces, turn the meat over so that the gashed part is now out- 
side and fill in the inside with a well»mixed quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras that has 
been passed through a sieve half of each, having as much as would make an inch and a half 
diameter ball; envelop well this dressing in the flesh of the fillet, shaping them into pretty ovals and 
well rounded on the top (Fig. 364); put in more or less forcemeat, according to the size of the fillet 
so that when they are finished they look all alike; lay on top of each of these a small minion fillet 
streaked by cutting six incisions and placing in each one a thin slice of truffle proportioned to the 
size of the minion fillet. Cover the bottom of a sautoir with clarified butter, lay over the chicken 
fillets at equal distances apart, pour over more melted butter and cover with a strong buttered 
paper; cook them in a slow over for twelve to fifteen minutes, drain, trim with favor frills (No. 
10) and dress in a circle; pour into the center a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766). 


(1855), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS ALA VALENCQAY (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet 4 la Val- 
encay), 

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets without detaching the minion fillet; cut a gash down the whole 
length and in the middle of each fillet without separating the parts; turn the meat inside out 
fill the inside space with a preparation of chopped truffles fried in butter and thickened with meat 
glaze then allowed to cool off and mix with one egg-yolk. Dip each one of 
the fillets in velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream and when they are 
quite cold, immerse them in beaten eggs and rollin fresh white bread-crumbs; 
smooth them shapely with the blade of a knife. Atthe last moment range the 
fillets in a sautoir with clarified butter and brown them on both sides over a 
moderate fire; drain and trim with favor frills (No. 10). Dress in a circle filling the inside space 
with tomatoes prepared as follows: Cut medium-sized sound and peeled tomatoes into quarters, 
press out the juice and seeds, then fry them in butter seasoning with a little salt and sugar. 
Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira separately. 


(1856), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA VALERRI (filets ou Ailes de Poulet & la Valerri), 


Prepare twelve fillets by removing the thin skin covering them; remove the minion fillets to 
streak with red beef tongue; turn each one of these around a large Spanish olive, replacing its 
stone by quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), pushed through a cornet; on top of this 
forcemeat set a small truffle ball. Lay these in a buttered sautoir, cover with 
a sheet of buttered paper, and poach them in a slow oven, just 
when ready to use. Sauté the large fillets lightly with butter and 
lemon juice, and lay them under a weight, then divide them in two us 
through their entire thickness. Range half of them very closely Fie. 368. 
723), having it a quarter of an inch 





Fie. 366. 





Fie. 367. 


together, and pour over a layer of soubise (No. 7 
thick, set the other twelve halves on top of these halves, and leave till cold, then pare them 
all evenly into half heart-shapes; dip each separate double piece in well reduced but partially cold 


592 THE EPICUREAN. 


allemande sauce (No. 407), and let cool off again, then dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry 
in clarified butter; drain, trim with favor frills (No. 10), and dress in a circle; fill up the center — 
with mushrooms sautéd in butter and fine herbs, pour over some half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira, 
and set the minion fillets on top of these mushrooms. Serve separately a sauce-boat of half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413). 


(1857), CHICKEN A LA VILLEROI (Poulet & 1a Villeroi), 


An entrée of chicken & la Villeroi arranged and dressed as in Fig. 369 can be served at the most. 
elegant dinners. This entrée is dressed on a wooden foundation with a round and slightly conical 
support in the center, both being covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 142). Cook about 
fifteen fine, turned, very white, even sized mushroom heads. Select three good, tender chickens, 
not too large, but quite fleshy; when well cleaned, truss and cover over with thin slices of fat pork 
and ‘‘poélé” them in some good stock (No. 12), keeping them quite rare; drain, untruss and cut each 
chicken into five pieces; first take the legs while still very hot, and quickly remove the large second 
joint bone; cut off the stump at two-thirds of its length and range them on a small baking tin, one 
beside the other, letting them cool off under a weight. . Detach:the upper part of the breasts from 
the bodies, suppress the breast bones, pare them into oblongs and also leave to cool. Remove the 








Fig. 369. 


skin from the fillets, pare them prettily, detaching the pinion bone and cutting away the flesh from 
around. Trim the legs the same shape_as the fillets and imitate the minion bone by the shortened 
stump. Dip each one of these pieces separately into a well seasoned, succulent and thick tomato: 
sauce (No. 549) and Villeroi sauce (No. 560) mixed; return them at once to the same tin they were 
taken from, and leave to cool for a couple of hours; now take up the pieces one by one, detach any 
surplus of sauce and roll them immediately in fresh white bread-crumbs, then dip them in beaten 
eggs and bread-crumb once more; shake them nicely without handling them too much, and place: 
them in a frying basket (Fig. 121); fry in very hot fat till a good color is acquired, then drain and 
dress the legs and fillets against the support almost upright one piece slightly overlapping the other; 
on the summit of the support lay a bed of fried parsley and over this the breasts pyramidically 
arranged; set the mushroom heads in a row around the bottom of the dish, cover over with a little 
of the velouté and serve the entrée at once. 


(1858), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS AU SUPREME (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet au 
Supréme). 


Select six medium chickens of two pounds each, remove the large fillets, also their skin and 
epidermis; pare these into half hearts and range in a buttered sautoir; on top. 
of the thickest part of these lay the minion fillet in a half circle after it has. 
been scored; pour over butter and the juice of a lemon, cover with a buttered 
paper and cook in a hot oven. Set some supérme sauce (No. 547) and chicken 
— glaze (No. 389) in a sautoir and just when ready to serve stir in fresh butter, 

Fic. 370. cream and six ounces of peeled and sliced truffles. Trim all the fillets with 

favor frills (No. 10) and dress them in a circle filling in the inside with the 

sliced truffles and sauce. Serve a sauce-boat of supreme sauce (No. 547) at the same time. 








(1859), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, MEXICAN STYLE, IN PAPERS (Filets ou Ailes de 
Poulet & la Mexicaine en Papillotes), 


Remove the fillets from six fine medium-sized chickens; pare them leaving on the pinions and 
skin, then sauté them, and when done wrap them up in a matignon with white wine (No. 406), 
adding peeled tomatoes cut in eight pieces, fried in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, and 


POULTRY: eke | 593: 


chopped parsley. Prepare some sheets of paper heart-shaped and well oiled; place on one half a 
little of the cooked matignon, the tomatoes, some risot (No. 739) and fried sweet peppers; lay one: 
of the breasts or fillets on top and cover with more of the ingredients, then close by pinching the- 
two edges together all around and lay them on a buttered dish; place in a hot oven to heat the con- 
tents and color the paper; serve immediately. 


(1860). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS WITH CUCUMBERS (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet aux 
Concombres), 


Obtain some very small clean chickens, raise the fillets and remove the minion fillets; pare the- 
large fillets, suppress the skin and lard the tops with fine lardons (No. 4, 
Fig. 52) of larding pork, season and range them in a sautoir with but- 
ter, place this on a hot fire and two minutes later, remove and put them 
into a hot oven to let cook rare, but of a fine color, then glaze over 
with a brush, remove, drain and garnish the ends with favor frills (No. 
10). Dress into the middle of a hot dish a garnishing of purée of cucum- 
bers (No. 714), smooth the surface with the blade of a knife and dress the chicken fillets on the 
outside, pouring some supreme sauce (No. 547) around and serving more in a sauce: boat. 


* 





Wigs Bile 


(1861), CHICKEN FRICASSHEE (Fricassée de Poulet), 


Take a well cleansed chicken of two and a half to three pounds; cut the two fillets, the legs,. 
the breast in one, back in two and two wings retaining all the skin. Fill a saucepan with cold 
water, and soak the pieces of chicken in it for one hour, then throw this off and replace it by 
one quart of cold water adding to it two medium onions, one containing a clove, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with a bay leaf and thyme, salt and pepper. Cook the chickens, skim and let 
simmer gently, be sure that the chicken is cooked before taking them out, and when done, drain. 
on a colander, then lay the pieces in cold water; make a roux with three ounces of butter 
and three ounces of flour, cook for a few moments without browning, then put in the chicken stock. 
and the liquid from a pound of mushroom heads, as soon as the sauce comes to. a boil, remove it 
to the corner of the range for half an hour. Pare and clean the pieces of chicken carefully, lay 
them in a low saucepan, remove all the fat from the sauce and pour it through a wire sieve om 
the chicken, cover and heat it over a slow fire, thicken with four egg-yolks and one ounce of butter 
by first diluting the yolks with a little of the sance and increasing gradually until half the sauce is 
combined with the eggs, then stir it all together, set it on the fire and roll the pieces in; after the 
sauce thickens, strain it again through a tammy, add the mushrooms to the sauce. Dress 
the chicken by forming a high square with the two back pieces and the two wings, in the center of 
the dish; place the two fillets and two legs against the square and the piece of breast on top, cover 
with the sauce, putting the mushrooms on the four corners, pour the sauce over and garnish around 
with small round rice croquettes made with almond milk. 


(1862), CHICKEN FRICASSEE A LA BOUCHARD (Fricassée de Poulet & 1a Bouchard), 


Singe and cut up the chickens as for a plain fricassee (No. 1861), fry them without letting attain 
a color in some butter, and add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, mix well and pour ina pint of 
chablis wine, some broth (No. 194a), and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); cook very slowly 
and when done, take out the pieces of chicken; thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and a little 
butter, pass the sauce through a tammy and just when ready to serve add two chopped blanched 
shallots; some tarragon leaves and chopped parsley. Pour this over the chicken, garnishing around 
with Villeroi oysters (No. 698), and mushroom heads fried in butter, then tossed in meat-glaze 
(No. 402), butter and lemon juice; serve immediately. 


(1863), CHICKEN FRICASSEE A LA OHEVALIERE (Fricassée de Poulet & la Chevaliare), 


After the chickens are singed, remove the pouch and raise the fillets whole, with the pinions; 
slide the blade of a keen, thin knife between the meat and skin covering the fillets, lard them over 
with fine shreds of pork and lay them in a lightly buttered sautéing pan. Pare the miniom 
fillets and lard them with either truffles or tongue, then shape them into rounds, two and a quarter 
inches in diameter; place them in a buttered sautoir on thin slices of fat pork. Cut up the remain- 
der of the chickens and cook them the same as for the plain chicken fricassee (No. 1861). Trim the 


594 | THE EPICUREAN. 


legs and bread-crumb them. Prepare and cook a croustade the same width as the serving dish, 
having it three inches high, glaze the larded fillets; cook the minion fillets, and fry the legs to a 
nice golden color. Dress the backs and wings in the center of the croustade; cover lightly with 
allemande sauce (No. 407), then range the legs leaving them against the backs; place the larded 
fillets between these legs, and the minion fillets around; in each cf the latter set a fine glazed truffle, 
then glaze the fillets. Serve with a velouté sauce (No. 415), thickened when ready, with egg- voles, 
butter, and cream; heat well without boiling, and throw in some chopped mushrooms. 


(1864), CHICKEN FRICASSEE A LA FAVORITE (Fricassée de Poulet & la Favorite), 


Prepare and cut up the chickens the same as for the plain fricassee (No. 1861); soak the pieces 
for half an hour, then drain and return them to the saucepan to moisten with white broth (No. 
194a): cook the chicken, drain it ina colander, and run the liquid through a napkin; put it back on 
the fire to reduce to half adding eight gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), then reduce once more until the 
sauce adheres to the spoon, afterward finish with egg-yolks and butter. Strain through a tammy, and 
keep hot in a bain-marie. Wash thoroughly the pieces of cooked chicken in cold water; pare 
nicely, and place them in the sauce; after they are well heated, dress and garnish around with a 
cluster of carrot balls half an inch in diameter, blanched and cooked in white stock (No. 194a) 
and a little sugar, also small white onions cooked in white broth. Decorate the outside with small 
flat egg-plant croquettes containing mushrooms and truffles, and use also trussed crawfish for the 
ornamentation. 


(1865), CHICKEN FRIGASSEE A LA LUCIUS (Fricassée de Poulet & la Lucius). 

Draw and singe a clean, white meat three pound chicken, cut it up into eight pieces and split 
the carcass in two, also the neck and legs, wash these pieces in tepid water, place them in a sauce- 
pan containing water to heat, simply to stiffen the meat, then drain, refresh and wipe well on a 
cloth. Boil half a pound of blanched rice in broth for twenty minutes, keeping it white and con- 
sistent; when ready pour it into a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139), pressing it down well and 
keep it in a warm heater for eight minutes. Meit some butter in a saucepan, add to it the pieces 
of chicken with a garnished bouquet (No. 123), two quartered onions, salt and pepper corns, fry 
the chicken over a good fire without browning, dredge over a heaping spoonful of flour and 
continue cooking two minutes while stirring, take the saucepan from the fire, and pour in grad- 
ually some hot stock (No. 194a), stirring until it reaches boiling point; let cook for eight minutes 
on a moderate fire, then remove it to aslower fire to finish cooking the chicken; as fast as each of 
the pieces are done; the tenderest ones first, take them out, suppressing the legs and car- 
casses, then pare the remainder and lay them in another saucepan, strain the sauce, reduce it for 
a few moments to thicken, pour it over the chicken and finally finish the fricassee with a 
thickening of two raw egg-yolks, haif a gill of cream and an ounce of butter divided in 
small pats; cook this thickening without letting it boil, and squeeze in the juice of alemon. Dress 
the fricassee inside the rice border, unmold it on a hot dish, cover it moderately with the sauce 
and send the remainder to the table in a sauce-boat. 


(1866), CHICKEN FRICASSEE A LA WALESKI (Fricassée de Poulet & la Waleski), 

Take three medium chickens each one to weigh two pound and a half; cut both up into seven 
pieces each, the two legs, two fillets, two from the back and one breast bone; steep them in cold 
water for an hour, then drain and range ina saucepan; moisten to cover with broth (No.194a) adding 
a medium carrot cut in four, a middle-sized onion, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
‘bay leaf, one clove, and peppercorns; allow the chickens to cook for fifteen minutes, then drain and 
reserve the broth; refresh and sponge the pieces on a cloth, paring them neatly. Melt three 
ounces of butter in a saucepan, lay in the pieces of chicken and fry rapidly without browning; a 
few moments later cover with some clear velouté sauce (No. 415), prepared with the chicken broth 
and a glassful of white wine; boil up this liquid once, then set the saucepan on one side of the 
fire to finish cooking the contents; when done, free the sauce of all its fat before straining it 
through a sieve into a sautoir, adding to it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth. Reduce while 
Stirring from the bottom of the sautoir until a thick, succulent sauce is obtained, then put in a 
thickening of six egg-yolks, and an ounce and a half of lobster butter (No. 580). Strain this 
through a tammy over the pieces of clicken, remaining in the saucepan. Just when serving 
squeeze in the juice of alemon. Dress in a thin border of cream forcemeat (No. 75), decorated 
with truffles; surround this border with a circle of sautéd sweet peppers (No. 2769), with mush- 


room heads on top and a ieee crawfish betw een every one. _ Serve the surplus of sauce in a 
uce-boat. “nt iba oe Rea tes yers® re em as a aa 


leg and two of the breastbone. | 
and salt, leave them in this pickle for two hours. Heat about three pounds of good fresh lard, 


AAMPOULDTER Y: 13% 595 


41867). CHICKEN FRICASSEE WITH CRUSTACEAN SAUOE (Fricassée de Poulet au Coulis de 
Crustacés), 


Wash in plenty of water, then cook four dozen crawfish with white wine, an onion, parsley 
roots, thyme, bay leaf, a grain of pepper and salt; let cook over a brisk fire for five minutes, and ~ 
after the first boil strain the broth through a fine sieve, then through a napkin; let it settle and 
pour the top off gently. Detach the tails from the crawfish bodies, pick out the meats, trim and 
keep them hot while covered. Chop up the tail parings and the claw meats, mix with an equal 
quantity of cooked chopped mushrooms, season and add a very thick béchamel (No. 409) reduced 
with a little chicken glaze (No. 398) so as to have a consistent preparation, then season with a 
-coffeespoon of prepared red paper (No. 168); keep this in a bain-marie. Fasten a fried bread sup- 
port onadish. Put into a sautoir containing butter, two two-pound chickens each one divided 
into five pieces and parboiled in water, removing them at the first broil to drain, and fry in 
butter, keeping them white; season, dredge over a tablespoonful of flour for each chicken, moisten 
gradually with hot broth (No. 194a) and boil the liquid without ceasing to stir, letting it be in 
this state for eight to ten minutes; finish cooking the chickens over a slow fire. Use the crawfish 
hash to fill some hollow semicircular crusts; cover this with a layer of the reduced thick béchamel 
(No. 409) bestrew with grated parmesan and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123); when the 
chickens are ready dress them on the dish leaning against the prepared support intercalating them 
with the crawfish tails; reduce the sauce by incorporating into it a few spoonfuls of the crawfish 
liquor and thicken with four egg-yolks and half a gill of cream, finishing with red butter (No. 
580). Strain some of this over the chickens and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat; surround 
the chickens with the filled crusts after they are baked and browned. 


(1868), CHICKEN FRICASSEE WITH OURRY (Fricassée de Poulet au Kari), 


Divide two small chickens of a pound and a half each after cleaning well into four distinct 
parts; pare them well. Put two or three spoonfuls of chopped onions in a saucepan and fry with 
butter till of a fine color; add the pieces of chicken, toss them for two minutes and season, sprink- 
ling two dessertspoonfuls of powdered curry over. Moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), 
put in a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Peel and chop up a small sour 
apple, add it to the chicken and let cook over a slow fire, taking out the fillets as soon as they are 
done; then remove the legs and place them in another saucepan with the fillets. Strain the sauce 
and reduce it with a few spoonfuls of good raw cream and as much mushroom broth; take it off 
the fire, thicken with three egg-yolks diluted with cream and a piece of butter divided into 
‘small pats. Dress the chickens, cover over with the sauce and serve a vegetable dishful of 
Indian rice. 


(1869), CHICKEN, MARINADE SAUCE—FRIED (Poulet Friteau 4 la Sauce Marinade), 


~ Cut off the stumps and pinions from two chickens each one a pound and a half in weight, singe, 
draw and free them well of their pin feathers, cut them both into five pieces, two legs, two wings 
and the breast, suppress the second joint bones from the legs and the wish bone from the breast. 
Lay the pieces in a vessel to season and marinate in oil and lemon juice with sliced onions and 
parsley leaves; a quarter of an hour before serving, drain off the chickens, wipe them nicely on a 
cloth, dip in cold milk, roll in flour and plunge one piece at the time in hot frying fat, observing 
that those taking the longest to cook must be the first ones to be put in; fry them to a nice 
color, but not too rapidly, as fast as one piece is done, take it out and drain it on a cloth, salt over 
and dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boatful of 
marinade sauce (No. 496), or else a poivrade sauce (No. 522), or a green sauce (No. 473). 


(1870), CHICKEN, MEDICIS—FRIED (Poulet Friteau Médicis), 


Lard two two and a half pound very white chickens with truffles after they have been singed, 
drawn and well cleaned. Braise them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork and mois- 
tened with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and two gills of white wine, when done, lay them in an 
earthenware vessel and cover with their own strained broth, leaving them thus until thoroughly 
cold, then cut them up into ten medium-sized pieces each, making two of each fillet, two of each 
Place these in a vessel with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper 


596 THE EPICUREAN. 


when very hot, dip each separate piece of chicken in frying batter (No. 137), and then in the fat to 
fry to a fine color, having them thoroughly warmed throughout. Drain, salt over and dress in a 
pyramidical form on a dish covered with a folded napkin, garnishing the top with a bunch of fried 
parsley. Serve a cream béchamel sauce with chopped truffies (No. 411), separately. 


(1871), GRENADES OF CHICKEN A LA RITTI (Grenades de Poulet a la Ritti), 


Pare some chicken fillets, remove the skin and lard with the smallest sized lardons (No. 4, Fig. 
52), place them in a sautoir, the bottom covered with thin bardes of fat pork, keeping the pointed 
ends lying toward the center of the pan; moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and mushroom 
liquor, then cook on a hot fire and glaze, drain and dress them on crofitons the same size and 
shape. Put the minion fillets in a buttered sautoir after twisting them into <ings, fill the centers. 
through a cornet with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and on this lay a ball of truffle; cover with 
a sheet of buttered paper, poach in a slack oven. Dress the grenades in a circle and the minions 
around, fill the middle with some foies-gras, mixed with allemande sauce (No. 407), glaze the 
grenades with meat glaze (No. 402). ; 


(1872). JAMBALAIA OF CHICKEN (Jambalaia de Poulet), 


Cook a quarter of a pound of rice the same as explained below, having the grains swollen 
but not broken and keep it dry at the oven door. Cut three ounces of cooked lean ham in three- 
eighths inch dice, also six ounces of cooked chicken meat, suppressing all bones and skin and having 
them one size. Warm the ham in a sauté-pan with butter, add to it the pieces of chicken to heat 
while tossing, season and sprinkle over lightly with prepared red pepper (No. 168), then put in the 
well drained rice, toss it with the meats and pour the whole into a vegetable dish. _ 

Indian Rice, which is generally served as a garnishing for chicken or veal is prepared with 
Indian rice, it having long, white and very perfect grains; plunge a sufficiency of this into a. 
liberal supply of boiling water, after it has been washed and picked, and as soon as it ceases 
to crack between the teeth, drain it on a colander; wash it in tepid salted water, spread it on a. 
large sieve covered with a white cloth and dry for a few moments at the oven door or else in a hot 
steamer. Dress on a vegetable dish, cover over and serve. This is the most simple and effectual 
method. 


(1873), CHICKENS LEGS A LA SAULNIERE—BIGARRURES (Bigarrures de Cuisses de Poulet a 
la Saulniére), 


Bone the legs of some young chickens leaving on only half of the drumstick, season with salt 
and pepper, and fill the insides with chicken forcemeat (No. 89), mixing in with it one-third of 
cooked forcemeat (No. 73), and some chopped parsley; lard those taken from the right with med- 
ium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), and stud those taken from the left with truffles, covering these with 
thin slices of fat pork. Cook them in two low saucepans lined with fat pork and moistened with 
a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); cover over with sheets of buttered paper, and cook in. 
the oven. Glaze those that are larded, and when done drain and decorate with paper frills (No. 
10). Dress in a cirele filling up the interior space with a financiére garnishing (No. 667). 


(1874), CHICKENS’ LEGS, AMERICAN STYLE—DEVILED (Onisses de Poulet & l'Américaine 4. 
la Diable), | 


Broil slowly some chicken legs and when well done, dip them in English mustard diluted. 
with mushroom catsup, salt, and cayenne, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil again over a 
slow fire until they acquire a fine color. Dress, pour lightly melted maitre d’hétel butter (No. 581). 
over, or else a deviled sauce (No. 459) into the bottom of the dish. 


(1875), CHICKENY LEGS AS CUTLETS WITH OLIVES (Guisses de Poulet en Cételettes aux Olives), 


Take the legs of six young chickens; bone them keeping on part of the drumsticks, but do not 
open; suppress well the sinews, season and stuff with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine 
herbs (No. 885); sew them up with coarse thread, leaving them in their original shape, range: 
them in a flat saucepan one beside the other, salt over lightly, moisten just to cover with stock (No. 
194a) and lay a piece of buttered paper on top, then cook the whole very slowly. Drain off the 
Jegs, and let cool between two boards or in the press (Fig. 71), pressing them down lightly; unsew 
and pare all around and on the ends, season and then dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs 


’ 


POULTRY. 597 


Range them one beside the other ina flat sauce-pan with melted butter, return them to a hot 
fire and brown slightly on one side, then reverse them and brown them on the other. Drain and 
trim each drumstick with a small paper frill (No. 10); dress in a circle on a hot dish and fill 
the inside with an olive garnishing (No. 695), made with either verdal or Lucques olives, and serve 
with a sauce-boat of Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(1876), CHICKENS’ LEGS IN PAPERS (Cuisses de Poulets en Papillotes), 


Take out the bones from some chicken legs, leaving on half the drumstick, season, lay them ina 
sautoir containing bardes of fat pork and moistened with a white wine mirepoix stock (No.419); 
when they are well cooked set them under the pressure of a light weight; pare all around, also the 
ends. Cut some sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, oil them over and lay a very thin slice of 
fat fresh pork on top of one of the halves, cover this witha layer of reduced duxelle (No. 385) and a 
chicken leg above; cover with more of the duxelle and a very thin slice of cooked ham; enclose 
them in the papers, plaiting it all around, lay these on a silver dish, place them in a slack oven 
and when the papers have acquired a fine color and are considerably swollen, serve them im- 
mediately. 


(1877). CHICKENS’ LEGS, PUREE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES—FRIED (Cuisses de Poulets Frites 
ala Purée de Topinambours). 


Remove the first joint bones, season and fry the legs in butter with finely shredded carrots, 
onions and leeks, adding parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white 
wine and let simmer slowly until thoroughly done, then turn them on a deep dish, covering them 
entirely with their stock and leave them to cool off in this; dip each piece in beaten eggs, then 
roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. Dress them in a circle over a purée of Jerusalem 
artichokes (No. 704) serying with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(1878) PILAU OF CHICKENS (Pilau de Poulets) 


Cut up in four pieces each, two small chickens weighing no more than a pound and three- 
quarters apiece, obtaining two legs, two breasts, fry them for a few moments in butter, then 
moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatics, 
and seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices; cook the whole slowly, being most particular to re- 
move the tenderest pieces as rapidly as they are done and transfer them into another saucepan; 
strain the stock, remove its fat, and pour the liquid over the meats with four gilis. of . boiling 
stock added, and then throw in half apint of, Carolina, rice for every quart of broth, and a .little 
powdered saffron; cook the rice for ten minutes on a good fire then withdraw it to the corner of 
the stove to continue cooking for ten minutes longer; the rice should now be dry and tender; 
finish by taking it off the fire, and incorporating into it two ounces of fresh butter divided 
in small pats. Dress the stew in a deep dish or else a vegetable dish. 


(1879), CHICKENS A LA CHAMPIONNE—ROASTED (Poulets Rotis a la Championne), 


Select two very fleshy chickens of two pounds each; singe, draw and clean them, picking out all 
the pin feathers; truss them as for an entrée, explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 178); cover 
the breasts with dry mirepoix (No. 419) and wrap up in a thin slice of fat pork; roast them on a 
spit before a slow but well-regulated fire, basting over frequently, Out up quite fine one pound of 
cooked and peeled mushrooms; combine them with reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409) and finish 
with a little paprika and melted meat glaze (No. 402); with this preparation fill some hollow, round 
or semi-circular crusts (No. 52), smooth the surfaces and bestrew the tops with parmesan, then 
«laze them in a brisk oven or under a salamander (Fig. 123). As soon as the chickens are taken 
from the spit, unwrap and cut them up into five pieces each, suppressing the drumsticks; range 
them inside a cooked paste border (No. 10) fastened on at some distance from the edge of the 
dish as shown in Fig. 3; around this border lay the garnished crusts and cover the chickens lightly 
with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) sending a sauce-boat of the same to the table to be handed 


- round the same time as the chicken. 


(1880), CHICKENS A L/HOTELIERE—ROASTED (Poulets Rotis & l'Hotelitre) 
Peel twenty medium fresh mushroom heads, empty out the insides and stuff them as explained 
in No. 650. Roast two tender chickens on the spit before a good fire, basting them over with 
butter. Chop up the mushroom ends and put them in a saucepan with thyme and bay leaf. minced 


598° THE: EPIOUREAN. 


shallots, two gills of white wine and two gills of gravy (No. 404); cover the pan and cook over @ - 
slow fire for ten minutes, then strain the liquid through a sieve and reduce it to the consistency of 
a half-glaze, adding four tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402) and two of Madeira wine; boil up. 
the sauce for two minutes and remove it on one side to finish with butter. Salt and untruss the 
chickens, cut each one into five pieces and dress them pyramidically on a dish; surround with the. 
stuffed mushrooms and pour the sauce over the chickens. 


(1881, CHICKEN IN THE SAUCEPAN—ROASTED (Poulet Roti & la Casserole), 


Brown a fine, small, whole chicken trussed for roasting (No. 179) in any kind of earthen sauce- 
pan with alittle butter. After the chicken has attained a light golden color, moisten it with a spoonful 
of clear gravy (No. 404) and half a glassful of white wine; cover over and let the liquid fall to a half- 
glaze. When ready to serve dish up the chicken after untrussing it. A few small whole onions. 
may be added as a garnishing after blanching them in boiling water and then frying them. 
Cover the whole with a half-glaze sauce (No. 418). 


(1882), CHICKENS WITH OYSTER SAUCE (Poulets & la Sauce aux Huitres), 


Blanch four dozen medium-sized oysters in their own liquor. Bard two small chickens weigh- 
ing a pound and a half each, after having them singed and trussed; run them one at the time on 
a slender spit, fasten well by tying the legs with twine and roast in front of a good fire basting 
over with melted butter; untruss, untie and cut each one either in four or five parts, pare the 
pieces, dress them pyramid form on a dish and cover with velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with 
the oyster liquor and then with fresh cream, buttering the sauce well when off of the fire, add. 
to it the oysters, warm them, and pour the whole over the chickens besprinkling the top with. 
chopped parsley. 


(1883), CHICKENS, TOMATO CONDE SAUCE—STUFFED (Poulets Farcis & la Sauce Tomate 
Condé), . 


Roast some chickens, when cooked and cold, remove the breast meat, carefully leaving: 
the other part of the chicken intact, cut these breasts into dice, also half as much mush- 
rooms as there is chicken and half as many truffles as mushrooms, all cut in three- 
sixteenths of an inch squares. Put this salpicon into a béchamel sauce (No. 409), well reduced 
with the mushroom broth, then use it to replace the breasts in the chickens, rounding it well on the 
top; cover the whole with béchamel sauce (No. 409), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and a little 
grated parmesan cheese, pour on some clarified butter and set the chickens in a slack oven to 
brown slightly. Dress them on a garnishing of noodles sautéd in butter (No. 2972), and well. 
browned, and serve at the same time a sauce-boat of clear tomato condé sauce (No. 550). 


(1884), CHICKENS A LA BOURGUIGNONNE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Bourguignonne), 


Clean and singe two small chickens, then cut them up into five parts; range these in a sautoir- 
with melted butter and oil, some shallots and mushroom peelings; season and fry to a good color on 
both sides; finish to cook in a slow oven being careful to withdraw the fillets and breasts as quickly 
as they are done, take out all the pieces from the sautoir, unglaze its bottom with a gill of Madeira. 
and a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), strain and reduce by incorporating into it slowly two gills. 
of Burgundy wine, previously boiled in a red copper untinned pan with aromatics and mushroom 
peelings. When the sauce becomes succulent, pour it over the dressed chickens and surround them 
with a circle of round, flat crofitons of bread fried in butter and having one side covered with a. 
layer of baking forcemeat (No. 81), glazed over with a brush and kept warm at the oven door. 


(1885). CHICKENS A LA D'ANTIN—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la d'Antin), 


Prepare two small chickens of two pounds each, by cutting each one into five parts and toss- 
ing them in a sautoir with clarified butter over a moderate fire; cook when needed four artichoke 
bottoms, drain and mince, then put them in with the chicken, also two chopped, blanched shallots, 
two ounces of finely shredded cooked ham and some minced truffles and mushrooms. Pour off the- 
fat and replace it by velouté sauce (No. 415) and meat glaze (No. 402), adding chervil, chives and 
\ little finely cus up tarragon leaves, white wine and Madeira, reduce to a proper degree, then dress. 


‘he chickens and cover with a part of the sauce, trim the drumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and. 
rve the remainder of the sauce separately. 


as oa) EEG Vor Fee ) 599 


(1886), CHICKENS A LA DIVA—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Diva). 


Choose good, medium-sized chickens of about two pounds each; draw, singe, and suppress well 
all the adhering feathers; detach the legs and wings leaving on the pinions and sufficient meat om 
the breast bones so that they are of the same size as the other four pieces. Put some butter to 
melt ina sautoir, and when a light brown, lay in the pieces of chicken, seasoning with salt, pepper, 
and powdered sweet peppers; toss without browning, and moisten with about a gill of veal blond (No.. 
423) to detach the glaze, and then finish cooking the chickens, moistening as quickly as the stock 


‘reduces, and when sufficiently done, dress. Add to the sauce some béchamel (No. 409) and tomato: 


sauce (No. 549), a little tarragon vinegar, and some chopped, blanched shallot; just when ready to: 
serve, thicken with egg-yolks, and butter; strain through a tammy, and pour it over the chickens, 
bestrewing the top with very green chopped parsley; garnish around with small flat chicken cro- 
quettes (No. 877), an inch and a quarter in diameter by half an inch in thickness, and between. 
each of these lay a bordelaise crawfish (No. 1008), placing a channeled mushroom (No. 118) on top 
of every croquette. 


(1887). COHIOKEN A LA DODDS—SAUTED (Poulet Sauté & la Dodds). 


Cut up the chicken as explained for sautéing chicken (No. 1906), and put the pieces in a sau- 
toir with four ounces of butter, cook without browning, and add four ounces of small squares of 
onions; place it on the fire for a few seconds to cook the onions without letting attain color; then add 
two teaspoonfuls of curry, and two tablespoonfuls of flour; season with salt and pepper, moisten with 
a pint and a half of stock (No. 194a), and let boil and simmer quite slowly; when done, drain, 
pare well the pieces, and place them in a saucepan. Strain the sauce and reduce it with some 
good cream; pour this over the chicken. At the first boil dress in the shape of a pyramid and 
cover with a part of the sauce, reserving the remainder for the sauce-boat. Boil some rice in water 
for ten minutes, drain and press it into a buttered mold furnished with a cover; place it in a slack 
oven for fifteen minutes, and just when ready to serve, unmold it on a dish, and send it to the 
table with the chicken. 


(1888), CHIOKENS A LA DUMAS—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Dumas), 


Cut three chickens into five pieces each, having two legs, two wings and one breastbone piece; 
season with salt and pepper and toss them in butter with three small chopped shallots; remove the: 
Wings and breasts as rapidly as they are cooked and finish the legs, which take longer. Pare all. 
the pieces and return them to a sautoir on the fire with a clear top part of the butter and three-. 
quarters of a pound of minced mushrooms, pour over a few spoonfuls of thin béchamel (No. 409),, 
roll them in the sauce without allowing it to boil. Detach the glaze from the other sautoir with a: 
little Madeira, and add itto the sauce. Blanch three-quarters of a pound of rice, drain and place: 
it in a saucepan and moisten it to three times its height, meaning if there be two inches high of 
rice, put in six inches high of unskimmed broth (No.194a); boil, cover the saucepan and finish in the 
oven; it will take about twenty minutes. When the rice is sufficiently done, add to it three- 
quarters of a pound of very red beef tongue cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares, also. 
three ounces of butter and the same quantity of grated parmesan cheese, a teaspoonful of pow-- 
dered sweet peppers and a bit of cayenne pepper. Fill a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139). 
with this prepared rice, keep it warm and when ready to serve invert it on a dish; dress the 
chickens pyramid-form in the center and cover the whole with the sauce thickened with egg-yolks, 
cream and butter, finishing with a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168). Garnish around with 
breaded and fried spinal marrow of veal, and send a sauce-boat of the same sauce to the table with. 
the chicken. 


(1889), CHICKENS A LA FINNOISE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Finnoise), 


Prepare and cook three chickens the same as for the chicken hunter’s style (No. 1903); when 
three-quarters done, put in three ounces of chopped and blanched onion, and three ounces of small. 
squares of ham, moisten with half a pint of stock (No. 194a) in order to detach the glaze and finish 
cooking the chickens; in case this moisture should be found insufficient, add a little more stock to» 
it; season with sweet Spanish peppers, salt and paprika. Just when ready to serve pour ina pint and 
iv half of velouté (No. 415) and half a pint of cream; reduce slowly until the chicken is thorough! y 
cooked, thicken with egg-yolks, cream, fresh butter and lemon juice. Dress the chickens inside a 
border of rice boiled in stock (No. 194a) and finished with a little fine butter; strain the sauce 
through a tammy, pour it over the chickens and trim the wings and legs with paper frills (No- 
10), or serve the chickens simply with a Finnoise sauce (No. 465). 


600 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1890), OHIOKENS A LA FLORENTINE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Florentine), 


Cut up three one and a half pound chickens in four pieces each, season with salt, pepper, 
ground cloves and a teaspoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers; sauté them in half oil and half 
butter, and add six ounces of raw, unsmoked ham cut in quarter inch dice; turn over to color 
evenly and keep sautéing on the fire, or else set the pan in a slow oven and when done drain off the 
pieces; add to these two gills of Malaga wine, a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), three table- 
spoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 402), and six tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), also three 
dozen small onions that have been blanched and cooked in white broth (No. 194a), six dozen carrot 
balls each five-eighths of an inch in diameter, blanched for ten minutes then finished with white 
broth and a little sugar; three dozen turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118) cooked in 
a little water, butter, salt, lemon juice and six ounces of minced truffles. Boil up the whole, 
dress the chicken with the garnishing around; reduce the sauce to perfection, pouring half of it 
over the chicken, and trim the legs and wings with frills (No. 10); strain the remainder of the 
sauce and serve it separately. 


(1891), CHICKENS A LA MADELEINE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Madeleine). 


Cut in quarters two small one and three-quarter pound chickens after cleaning them well; 
season with salt, pepper, paprika, and sweet Spanish peppers; put them into a liberally buttered 
sautoir, and when they commence to brown add half a pound of bacon cut up in quarter inch 
squares, having it previously blanched, four ounces of carrots and the same quantity of turnips cut — 
in three-sixteenth inch squares and blanched. separately, four ounces of onions in one-eighth inch 
squares also blanched, and a small garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Moisten with a little 
‘stock (No. 194a) and velouté (No. 415), cover the sautoir and finish cooking ina slack oven until 
cooked; when ready to serve thicken the sauce with egg-yolks, cream, butter and lemon juice; pour 
this over the chickens trim the handle bones and serve. 


(1892), CHICKENS A LA MARCGEL—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Marcel), 


Prepare a sufficient number of chickens the same as for sautéing (No. 1906); season with salt 
and pepper; pour some oil into a sautoir and when very hot add the pieces of chicken and sauté 
them colorless; when nearly done put in one small chopped up shallot for every chicken, also a 
clove of garlic. Scoop cut some potatoes olive-shaped, with a large oval vegetable spoon; cook 
them slowly in butter as well as some small artichoke bottoms after having them blanched, then 
finish cooking in butter; dress the chickens, garnish the artichoke bottoms with a consistent, mellow 
chestnut purée (No. 712) pushed through a pocket, and lay on top of this medium-sized channeled 
and glazed mushroom heads (No.118); range these around the chicken and the potato olives between 
every one; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(1893), CHICKENS A LA MARENGO—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés a la Marengo), 


Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for the sautéd chickens (No. 1906); heat some 
oil in a sautoir, range in the pieces one beside the other, and set it on a brisk fire tossing them 
until they are of a fine color, then add a clove of crushed and chopped garlic and some mignonette. 
Just when prepared to serve drain off three quarters of the fat and replace it by half a pint of 
white wine, detaching the glaze from the pan, then add a pound of mushroom buttons, and four 
ounces of thickly sliced truffles, espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little meat-glaze (No. 402), a little: 
fine tomato purée (No. 730) and lemon-juice. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, cover over 
with the garnishing and trim the drumsticks and pinions with paper frills (No. 10); decorate the 
edges of the dish with egg-yolks fried in a small frying pan with a little oil, some half-heart small 
bread crofitons and middling-sized trussed crawfish. 


(1894). CHICKENS A LA MARYLAND—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Maryland), 


For this dish choose small one pound chickens, split them open through the back,-pare nicely 
(Fig. 353) and season, rub over with flour, then immerse in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs. Heat 
some clarified butter in a sautoir, fry the chickens in it very slowly to cook and attain a fine color, 
then finish cooking them ina slack oven for ten minutes. Dress the chickens on a béchamel 
sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream, and garnish the top with small corn fritters (No. 1349) and 
slices of broiled bacon, decorate the legs with paper frills (No. 10). | 


: POULTRY. 601 


(1895), CHIOKENS A LA MONTESQUIEU-—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Montesquiew) 


By observing the drawing for this entrée the elegance of this new style of dressing can easily 
be perceived. On an entrée dish one inch from the edge fasten a standing openwork border made of 
cooked paste (Fig. 3), spreading it out slightly; brush this over with egg-yolks and dry it in the air. 
In the center of this border, fasten a wooden bottom to be covered with the same paste rolled out 
very thin. Singe three clean chickens, detach the legs, leaving on as much skin as possible, then 
lift off the large fillets with the pinions leaving the minion fillets adhere to the breasts, remove the 
skin from four of the large fillets, pare and lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), range them 
in a sautoir lined with fat pork, salt and pour butter over. Detach the minion fillets from the 
breasts, trim four of them, cut five gashes on their top, into these place rounds of truffles, 


5 


————— Ky 





eo SO) rrr 


Fig. 372, 


laying them in a buttered sautoir. Bone the legs, pare the meats evenly, salt and stuff them 
with a rather firm quénelle forcemeat (No. 89) into which mix some truffled Duxelle (No. 385); 
sew them up and range them ina sautoir, covering over with fat pork and basting with some 
stock (No. 194a); cook very slowly, then drain and let to get cold under the pressure of a 
light weight. With the remaining large fillets and the minion fillets prepare a little cream force- 
meat (No. 75) and with it fill a small, plain pyramidical mold flat on top; poach this in a bain- 
marie for ten minutes; cut the stuffed legs in two and return them to the sautoir with their stock 
reduced to a half-glaze, heat up slowly while basting at the oven door; glaze the larded fillets in a 
hot oven and poach the streaked minion fillets. At the last moment unmold the crofton of force- 
meat on the paste-covered dish; dress the legs around, one overlapping the other, pour over a 
little good reduced velouté sauce (No. 415), and then range the four large fillets intercalating them 
with the streaked fillets; on top of the pyramid insert a small skewer garnished with truffles 
(Fig. 11).. Surround the border with a chain of round, peeled truffles cooked just when needed 
with glaze (No. 402) and Madeira and send with the entrée a sauce-boatful of velouté sauce reduced 
with the truffle broth. 


(1896), CHICKENS A LA NANTAISE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Nantaise), 


Prepare three chickens the same as for hunter’s style (No. 19038,) sauté them in butter without 
browning and remove each piece as fast as cooked; drain off the grease, detach the glaze with a little 
mushroom broth and Madeira wine, add some béchamel and cream (No. 411) and let simmer slowly, 
pouring in alittle more cream if necessary; strain the sauce and keep it boiling hot. Make a croquette 
preparation with artichoke bottoms and cooked lean ham, the former cut in three-sixteenth inch 
squares and the latter in one-eighth pieces; mingle with some thick cold béchamel (No. 409) and 
form it into pear-shaped croquettes, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color in clean, 
white, and very hot frying fat. Fry some shrimps in butter, season with salt, pepper, fine herbs 
and lemon juice. Dress the chickens, pass the sauce through a tammy and pour part of it over 
the chickens; dress the shrimps in clusters and artichoke bottom croquettes between each; serve 


the rest of the sauce separately. 


(1897), CHICKENS ALA PARMENTIER—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés 4 la Parmentier). 


Draw and singe three two pounds chickens, clean them well, suppressing all the pin feathers, 
cut them up in to five pieces, namely: two legs, two wings and a breastbone piece; sauté in butter 
and when three-quarters done add potatoes cut cylindrical shape an inch in diameter then sliced 


602 THE BPICURBAN. 


three-eights of an- inch thick, or else cut in five-cighths squares; ‘eook them partially in a frying 
pan with clarified butter. Finish cooking the chicken and potatoes together in the oven, being 
careful to remove the breasts as soon as they are done. Dress the chickens on a dish with the 
potatoes around, detach the glaze from the sautoir with a little clear gravy (No. 404), Madeira and 
half-glaze sauce (No. 418), reduce the liquid for two minutes, pass through a tammy and pour it 
over the chickens. 


(1898), CHICKENS A LA PORTUGAISE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Portugaise). 


Have three chickens prepared the same as for hunter’s style (No. 1903), sauté them in half oil 
and half butter, season with salt and pepper, and when they are three-quarters done add three 
pounds of peeled tomatoes, halved through the center and the seeds and juice pressed out, a little 
finely cut up chives and three tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402); boil and simmer until thor- 
oughly cooked. Prepare eighteen small very sound halved tomatoes; press lightly to extract the juice 
and fill them with a dressing prepared as follows: Put four ounces of bread-crumbs into a bowl 
with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, the chopped livers 
of three chickens, salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix the whole well together and fill each half tomato 
with some of this; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, and lay a small piece of 
butter on top of every one, set them in a hot oven and when nicely browned take out and dress in 
a circle on a dish with the chickens in the center, dredge over with chopped parsley and decorate 
the leg and wing bones with paper frills (No. 10). 


(1899), CHICKENS A LA SANFORD—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Sanford), 


Draw and singe small one pound and a quarter to one pound and a half chickens, divide them 
into four pieces, suppressing the legs above the joint, also the pinion of the wings; season with salt 
and pepper, and rub over with flour; they may now be if so desired dipped in eggs and in bread- 
crumbs; sauté them slowly in clarified butter, and when well done drain and dress; pour a little 
good gravy (No. 404) in the dish and garnish around with hollow tartlets filled up with Chantilly 
sauce & la Sanford (No. 588). 


(1900), CHICKENS A LA STANLEY—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés a la Stanley), 


Select three chickens each one weighing two pounds and a half; draw, singe, and detach the 
legs from the bodies, cut the carcasses on a level with the breasts and plunge these for a few moments 
in hot water to stiffen them, then dip them at once in cold water to refresh, lard them with lardons. 
(No. 3, Fig. 52). With the meat taken from the legs and all the parings prepare a quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89), finishing it with a dash of cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of béchamel 
(No. 409). Butter eighteen hollow tartlet molds with rounded bottoms, besprinkle the insides with 
finely chopped raw truffles, and fill them up with the prepared forcemeat; range these in a sautoir 
having boiling water around and reaching up to half their height, then poach the forcemeat slowly. 
Besides this, poach a layer of the same forcemeat on an entrée dish and keep it warm. Cut the 
breasts of the chickens into three pieces, two fillets and the upper part of the breast; suppress. 
the pinions. Mince ten ounces of white onions, and fry them slowly with butter in a sautoir, 
and when a good color, add the chickens; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with three 
gills of chicken broth prepared with the carcasses and bones of these chickens; cover the sautoir 
and allow the liquid to fall to a glaze, then begin the operation again until the fillets and breasts. 
are thoroughly done; remove and transfer to a flat saucepan; increase the chicken stock with a 
few spoonfuls of good velouté (No. 415), reduce this sauce without ceasing to stir, incorporating 
more of the broth into it, and lastly a gill of good raw cream; the sauce should now be 
succulent and of a medium consistency; thicken it with a liaison of two egg-yolks, and cook 
this without boiling, then strain it through a tammy into another saucepan to work it vigorously 
while adding butter; finish with a dash of cayenne pepper, and the juice of alemon. At the 
last moment dress the fillets in a circle on the bed of forcemeat laying on the dish; fill the center 
of this with cut up cooked mushrooms, and place the breast pieces on top; cover over with apart of 
the sauce, pouring the remainder into a sauce-boat to beserved separately. Unmold the small force- 
meat molds, dress them around the fillets and glaze over with a brush, then serve. 


“A BeUTTER YE Ir 603 


(1901), CHICKENS A LA TUNISIAN—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Tunisienne), 


Divide two two-pound chickens into five pieces each, range the pieces in a sautoir with half: 
melted butter and half oil, sauté on a moderate fire and then in the oven., When they are three- 
quarters cooked, season and finish, being careful to remoye the fillets and other tender pieces as. 
quickly as they get done; drain them all off, leaving only the fat in the sautoir, then pare the 
chickens piece by piece and range them at once in a low saucepan with alittle clear gravy (No. 404) 
and meat glaze (No.402); keep this ina warm place; fry two ounces of finely chopped onions in butter 
left from the chickens with the gizzards cooked and cut in small squares, the chopped up livers 
and four ounces of cold tenderloin of beef or lamb cut also into one-eighth inch squares, add salt, 
pepper and bread-crumbs and cool this off before breaking in a few raw egg-yolks. Form this pre- 
paration into five-eighths inch diameter balls and put them in with the chicken, also a quart of 
velouté (No. 415) and two gills of Madeira wine, let simmer and reduce the sauce, skimming off the. 
fat. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form with the quenelles around, and cover over with a part 
of the sauce passed through a tammy, serving the remainder separately. Trim the pinion bones. 
and drumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and lay trussed crawfish all around. 


(1902), CHICKENS POINT DU JOUR—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés au Point du Jour), 


Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for bourguignonne (No. 1884), range them in. 
a sautoir with melted butter. Fry colorless in butter, four ounces of chopped onions, dredge over 
with a tablespoonful of flour and make a small light roux; moisten this with red wine and stock (No. 
194a) add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and a few mushroom parings, despu- 
mate and reduce well the sauce. Sauté the chickens in the butter and when well browned add two. 
dozen small glazed onions, as many cooked mushroom heads and as many olives as mushrooms; 
strain the above sauce, pour it over the chickens and at the first boil, take out the chickens and 
dress. Reauce the sauce, add to it a handful of small nonpareil capersand pour it over the chickens, 
garnish around with tiny round crusts an inch and a half in diameter, toasted and covered on one. 
side with anchovy butter (No. 569). 


(1903), CHICKENS, HUNTER’S STYLE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés au Chasseur). 


Pick out three good chickens of about two and a half pounds each, draw, singe, then clean: 
well and extract all the small pin feathers, cut them each up into seven pieces, the two wings, two. 
legs, two pieces of the back and one of the breast bone; season with salt and pepper; melt six 
ounces of butter in a sautoir until it becomes a fine golden color, then lay in the pieces of chicken, 
and toss them well; when they acquire a fine light brown on one side, turn them over to brown. 
likewise on the other, cover the sautoir and finish cooking on a very slow fire or in the oven. When 
the meats are well done, drain off the butter and detach the glaze with a little stock (No.194a). Fry 
colorless in butter a large pinch of chopped shallot, moisten with half a bottleful of red or white. 
Burgundy wine, reduce to half, then add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and simmer the whole. 
for a few moments, season well, and when the sauce is properly reduced, return the chickens to it, 
put it back on the fire to remove at the first boil and add three ounces of cooked, lean ham cut. 
up in one-eighth of an inch squares, slice three onions across, having them two inches in diameter 
by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, remove the largest rings and roll them in flour, them 
fry a few at the time in plenty of fat; dress the chickens and use these rings to garnish the top,. 
decorate the stumps of the legs and the pinions with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately. 


(1904), CHICKENS, PARISIAN STYLE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés 4 la Parisienne), 


Peel a few medium-sized truffles, lay them in a saucepan with a little salt and Madeira 
wine; cook them slightly; cook also as many mushrooms with a piece of butter and the juice: 
of a lemon. Take two singed, drawn chickens, cut off the pinions and drumsticks, detach 
the thighs, and divide the breasts into three pieces, the two fillets and the upper breast 
part; cut the carcasses in two; crack the thigh bones in order to remove them, then 
place the thighs in a buttered flat saucepan; add the pinions, necks, and carcasses, season and cook 
on a moderate fire stirring them about at times; when partly done, add the fillets and upper breast 
parts, a bunch of parsley garnished witk aromatic herbs, and a clove of garlic. After all the meats. 
are well sized lift them out with a skimmer, and transfer to another saucepan, adding the truffles. 
Drain off the fat from the contents of the first saucepan, put in the truffle parings, and moisten 
with half a glassful of Madeira; boil up once or twice, then mix in double as much brown sauce 


604 THE EPICUREAN. 


(No. 414) and the truffle stock; let cook on a brisk fire for ten minutes; skim off the fat, and strain 
this sauce over the chickens; heat without allowing the liquid to boil. Fasten a small fried bread 
pyramid in the center of a dish, around it dress first the carcasses and pinions, then the thighs and 
breasts, placing the upper breast pieces on top; surround the chickens with the truffles and 
mushrooms, place a few cocks’-combs here and there, and free the sauce once more of its fat; pour 
it over the chicken and serve. 


(1905), CHICKENS, VIENNA STYLE—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés & la Viennoise), 


Select chickens that weigh from a pound toa pound and a quarter; bleed them just when 
ready to use, and pluck them quickly, then cut them up into four pieces, performing all 
this operation most speedily so that the chickens have no time to become cold; season over with a 
mixture of salt, pepper, thyme, powdered bay leaf, and lemon juice, then dip in flour, afterward in 
beaten eggs, and bread-crumb them only once. Cook in a sautéing pan with clarified butter over a 
very hot fire, drain, sponge, and season; dress them dry with a bunch of fried parsley on the top. 


(1906), SAUTED CHICKENS WITH HALF-GLAZE (Poulets Sautés Demi-Glace), 


Sautéd chickens are cooked various ways, either with a plain sauce or garnishing. 

How to Sauté.—Cut up two chickens each of two pound weight, having them well cleaned 
and singed, into seven pieces, viz: two legs, the breastbone, whole breasts, and the backbone, 
split in two, suppressing the pinions and giblets. Break the second joint bone of the legs and 
remove it. Heat some butter and oil in a sautoir, range the pieces of chicken in this, 





Fie? 375. 


HiG. ole. 


and cook over a good but not too fierce fire, turning them over when of a nice color 
and well browned; remove the saucepan from off the fire and place it in the oven to finish 
cooking the chickens, taking out the pieces as fast as they are done, and when the legs are 
sufficiently cooked, drain the fat from the sautoir and return to it the pieces previously removed, 
then pour over a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), boil up for a minute, turning the pieces 
over so that they are thoroughly covered with the sauce on all sides. Dress these pieces of chicken 
on a dish, cover and keep hot. Pour a gill of Madeira or white wine, or else half of each, into 
the sautoir, reduce to half, add another half pint of half-glaze sauce and some mushroom and 
truffle parings; boil up for a minute while stirring incessantly with a spoon, strain the sauce 
through a fine strainer pour it over the chickens and serve. 


(1907). CHICKENS WITH FINE HERBS, TOMATO GARNISHING—SAUTED (Poulets Sautés aux 
_ Fines Herbes, Garnis de Tomates), 


Fry chopped parsley and mushrooms and four blanched chopped shallots in butter: add two 
young two-pound chickens, both cut up into five pieces and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); 
season with salt and pepper; let all cook without adhering tothe pan, skim off the fat and add a pint 
of espagnole sauce (No. 414), some clear gravy (No. 404) and the juice of a lemon. Put some butter 
and oil in a pan and when. hot range one beside the other, some halved tomatoes having the seeds 
pressed out; season with salt and pepper, adda whole clove of garlic; fry these over a hot fire keeping 
them whole, and when their moisture has evaporated suppress the garlic and besprinkle with a 
little prepared red pepper (No. 168). Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, surround with the 
tomatoes and pour over the chicken gravy just as it is; dredge the surface with chopped parsley 
and serve with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) mixed with tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(1908), SPRING CHICKENS AS AN ENTREE, ROASTED—SMALL (Poulets Reine Rotis en Entrée 
de Broche). 

Singe three small chickens weighing three-quarters of a pound each; draw,. and clean well; 
truss as for an entrée (No. 178), cover the breasts with a dry matignon with Madeira (No. 406) 
and tie on this thin slices of fat pork to keep it in place, tying the pork with three rows of string; 
run iron skewers lengthwise of the chickens and fasten them on the spit; three-quarters of an hour 


POUDTRY.2 271 605 


before serving roast them in front of a bright fire basting over with butter and the fat from the drip- 
ping pan. When done, remove, unwrap and untruss. Invert on a dish a decorated and poached 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 80) border; lay in the center of the dish and on this a triangular center of 
fried bread covered with the same forcemeat, poach in the oven and range the chickens in a trian- 
gle on this border, leaning them up against the fried bread center. Dress between each one small 
clusters of round and peeled truffles rolled in meat glaze (No. 402), insert a garnished skewer in 
the bread center and the chickens. Pour some Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with truffle 
parings into the bottom of the dish after straining it through a tammy and serve more of it in a 
sauce-boat. 


(1909), CHICKEN A L’AQUITAINE—BRAISED (Poulet Braisé 4 1’Aquitaine), 


Draw and singe a fine corn-fed chicken weighing two and a half to three pounds; break the 
breastbone and fill the inside with a good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham com- 
~bined with a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, salt and nutmeg; sew up the stomach skin at 
the vent and truss with the legs inside; cover with slices of fat pork and then lay it in a narrow 
saucepan garnished with a bunch of parsley containing two cloves, some ham trimmings and an 
onion; moisten to half the height of the chicken with broth and allow the liquid to boil for a few 
moments, then set the saucepan on a slower fire to have it cook from half to three-quarters of an 
‘hour, basting it over frequently and letting it acquire a fine color. Strain off the stock, remove its 
fat and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce. Infuse a 
piece of cinnamon in a gill of Madeira wine for fifteen minutes, strain it through a napkin and add 
it to the sauce. Place in a saucepan some round and well-pared slices of duck’s liver, some cocks’- 
combs and kidneys, truffles and mushrooms; pour two-thirds of the above sauce over these, then 
untruss the chicken and dress it with the garnishing distributed around and the remainder of the 
sauce served in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1910), CHIOKENS A LA LEONIA—BOILED (Poulets Bouillis & la Léonia), 


Have very tender two-pound chickens, prepare and truss them as for an entrée and range 
them in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a) to cook slowly; when done cut each chicken into 
five pieces; two legs, two wings, and one of the breast bones. Fry lightly in butter one shallot 
_orhalf a medium onion, add four ounces of dried mushrooms, softened in water and chopped up 
finely, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, moisten with two gills of white 
wine and a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415); skim the top properly for fifteen to twenty minutes, 
then take out the parsley and pour in a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549) and a quarter of a pound of 
lean ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, let the sauce reduce until quite thick, add the pieces 
of chicken and when thoroughly warm, dress with the sauce, bestrewing the surface with chopped 
parsley. 


(1911), CHICKENS A LA STUYVESANT—POELE (Poulets Poélés & la Stuyvesant). 


Have two good chickens weighing three pounds each; truss them for entrée (No. 178) and 
cook them as explained under the heading to poéler (No. 12); when done properly, drain, untruss. 
and cut them up into five or six pieces, dress them in a pyramid form on a layer of forcemeat 
three-quarters of an inch thick, poached on the same dish intended for the table, and surround 
with a circle of channeled mushrooms (No. 118), new carrots cut pear-shaped and blanched, then 
cooked in stock (No. 194a) with a little sugar; throw some very small cooked green peas. over the 
whole, also a printanitre sauce (No. 546) and send to the table with some of the same sauce served 


separately. 


| (1912), CHICKENS, ENGLISH STYLE—BOILED.(Poulets Bouillis 4 l'Anglaise), 
Prepare and truss some young two-pound chickens as for an entrée (No. 178), boil them in 
stock (No. 194a) and drain when done ; dress and cover with a well buttered velouté sauce (No. 


415), adding to it chopped parsley and lemon juice. 


(1913), CHIOKEN WITH NOODLES, MACARONI, RAVIOLES, OR MIRMIDONS—BRAISED 
(Poulet Braisé Soit aux Nouilles, Macaroni, Ravioles, ou Mirmidons), 
Cook a chicken the same as with rice (No. 1914), roll out thin, some noodle paste bands (No. 


142) two inches wide, cut it into fine shreds, plunge them into boiling, salted water and let cook 
for eight to ten minutes while covered; remove from the fire to drain on a sieve. Return these 


“606 THEY EPICUREHAN. 


noodles when dry to the saucepan and add two or three spoonfuls of good béchamel (No. 409), 
fresh butter, grated parmesan, a bit of nutmeg and salt and pepper, then dress on a hot dish; 
lay the chicken on top either whole or neatly cut up, pour over its liquid reduced to a half-glaze and 
thickened with a little tomato sauce (No. 549). This chicken can be served exactly the same only 
‘substituting macaroni (No. 2960), ravioles (No. 2976), or miemid ons (No. iat 


(1914), CHICKEN WITH RICE—BRAISED (Poulet Braisé au riz), 


Draw a chicken weighing three pounds, break the breastbone and fill the inside with a 
good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham, a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Sew up the opening on top and truss with the legs inside; bard nicely, 
and lay it in a saucepan proportionate to itssize, with the giblets, a garnished bunch of parsley, (No. 
123) two cloves, and some ham parings. Moisten to about its height with stock (No. 194a) from 
the stock pot retaining all the fat and let boil up. briskly for five to six minutes; remove the sauce- 
pan on one side of the range to finish boiling the liquid slowly for half to three-quarters of an 
hour. Place half a pound of well-washed and lightly blanched rice into another saucepan, wet it 
with two-thirds of the chicken broth after straining it through a fine sieve; in case there be not 
sufficient add a little broth; cook eighteen to twenty minutes on a hot fire; it should be softened 
and sufficiently dried; remove and finish by stirring in with a fork, a piece of butter, also a dash 
of nutmeg. Dress the rice on a dish, lay the chicken on top after draining and untrussing it, 
then serve. A small handful of grated parmesan cheese may be added to the rice if desired. 
Serve separately the remaining third of the stock reduced to a half-glaze. 


(1915), CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON—BRAISED (Poulet Braisé & l’Estragon), 


Choose a good three-pound, very white chicken; singe and draw it well; clean and free it from 
pin feathers; slip between the skin and breast meat a six ounce piece of butter mingling it with a 
heavy pinch of tarragon leaves; truss for an entrée (No. 178), and cover with bards of fat pork; 
place it in a saucepan, also the neck, gizzard, and a few veal parings; moisten just sufficiently to 
cover the chicken having three-quarters of unskimmed broth (No. 194a), and one-quarter of white 
wine. Boil up this liquid, then remove the saucepan to a more moderate fire to allow the chicken to 
‘cook for forty-five to sixty minutes; when properly done, strain the liquid, free it of fat, and put 
this latter in with the chicken to keep it warm. Throw a few tarragon leaves into a little boiling 
water; take the saucepan from the fire at the first boil, and drain these leaves on a sieve. Olarify 
the chicken stock, reduce, and afterward add to it a piece of chicken glaze (No. 398), and the 
juice of one lemon; untruss the chicken, dress and decorate the breast with the blanched tarragon 
leaves; pour a part of the gravy around, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(1916), CHICKENS WITH NEW VEGETABLES—SMALL—BRAISED (Petits Poulets Braisés aux 
Légumes Nouveaux), 


Procure two small tender chickens each one to weigh a pound and a half; singe and draw, 
truss for an entrée (No.178), then lay them in a saucepan with melted butter and fry over a slow fire 
for ten to twelve minutes, turning them around and not letting them brown; moisten with a pint of 
stock (No.194a); season and add a garnishing composed of small new blanched carrots and uncooked 
fresh green peas. Cover the saucepan and finish cooking the vegetables together with the chickens 
in a slack oven, occasionally adding a little hot stock (No. 194a). As soon as they are nicely done, 
‘drain, untruss and cut each one into four pieces; dress them in a pyramid form in the center of a 
long dish. Strain the vegetables, thicken them with butter and add a pinch of sugar; range them 
around the pyramid of chickens, and on both ends of the dish lay a cluster of mushrooms and 
‘one of small glazed onions. 


(1917), DUOK A LA BRITANNIA—STUFFED (Canard Farci a la Britannia), 


Chop up a little green sage also one shallot, put them into a vessel and season with salt and 
pepper, add three hard-boiled egg-yolks, two dozen chestnuts and two tablespoonfuls of bread- 
crumbs; work the whole well together and with it fill the duck; truss and roast for three-quarters 
of an hour to one hour, then dress on a crofiton of ee bread, prs over a Heston has! sauce Jer 


wy 


527). and sérve.more in another. sautce-boat. 


TL. GBORVDER Ys : 1 607 


(1918), DUCK A. LA°*MATIGNON: (Canard ¥ la Matignon), 

Select a fine young duck and truss it after singeing and drawing. Cut up somecarrots, bacon 
and onions into three-sixteenth inch squares; have also sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Put 
the bacon into a sautoir with two ounces of butter, fry, put in the onions without coloring them, 
then add the carrots, herbs and seasoning; moisten with Madeira wine and let fall to a glaze. 
When cold wrap the duck with this matignon in strong sheets of buttered paper, and roast either 
on the spit or in the oven from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Unwrap and add the veg- 
etables to half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and as much broth (No. 194a); boil and despum- 
ate for half an hour reducing to the consistency of a light sauce; strain this through a tammy 
{No. 159) and pour a part of it over the dressed duck, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(1919), DUCK A LA SIEBRECHT (Canard & la Siebrecht), 


Have a duck prepared and cooked the same as for roasting (No. 1921), dress and serve at the 
same time a sauce prepared as follows: Peel and cook some sour apples, and when done strain off 
the liquid part collecting the pulp in a vessel; mix into this a quarter as much grated fresh horse- 
radish and as much unsweetened well drained whipped cream; pour this sauce into a sauce-boat 
and serve it to accompany the duck. 


(1920), DUCK, AMERICAN STYLE—STUFFED (Canard Farci 4 l’Américaine), 


Singe, draw, and clean well a young duck, fill the insides with an American bread stuffing 
(No. 61); truss for roasting (No. 179) and roast it either on the spit or in the oven, three-quarters 
of an hour should be allowed. Dress it on a hot dish and pour a little gravy (No. 404) around, 
serving more in a separate sauce-boat. 


(1921), ROAST DUCK (Canard Roti), 


Singe and draw a nice fat duck, chop up the liver with the same quantity of fresh fat pork, 
season and mix in a small finely chopped onion, some chopped parsley, a handful of bread- 
erumbs passed through a sieve and one egg-yolk; with this dressing stuff the duck’s stomach; 
truss for roasting and cook either on the spit or in the oven for thirty to forty-five minutes, 
according to its size; baste over several times with butter, salt, and then take it from the spit; 
untruss and dress it on a dish garnishing around with slices of lemon. Send at the same 
time a sauce-boat of good gravy taken from the dripping pan, adding a little good stock (No. 
194a) to it. This duck may be served plain without dressing if desired. 


(1922), DUCK WITH OBPES (Canard aux Capes), 


Put a good clean, trussed duck into a saucepan with melted fat pork and two minced onions, 
fry, season and moisten with two to three gills of gravy (No, 404), then cook smothered, turning 
it over. When three-quarters cooked, add two to three dozen small fresh and peeled cépes free 
of stalks; finish cooking together with the duck, and when done, drain off the latter to untruss 
and dress on a dish with the cépes grouped around. Strain the gravy stock, thicken it witha 
little tomato sauce (No. 549) and pour it over the duck and garnishing, then serve. 


(1923), DUCK WITH OHERRIES (Canard aux Cerises), 


Prepare a duck for an entrée (No.178) after cleaning and singeing it; lay it ina saucepan lined 
with slices of fat pork and moisten to half its height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) 
bring the liquid to a boil and finish cooking in a slow oven. Suppress the stones and stalks from 
one pound of sour cherries, set them into an untinned copper pan with a little water, lemon peel, 
cinnamon and sugar, and let boil for a few moments, in case there should be no fresh cherries at 
hand take candied cherries or dried black ones; these should be soaked for an hour in tepid water, 
drained and put into a pan with a little fresh water, lemon juice and its peel, also cinnamon. Boil 
the cherries, then keep it at the same degree of heat, but discontinue the boiling for half an hour; 
the liquid should now be entirely absorbed.. After the duck is ready, remove it from the saucepan 
and untruss, strain its stock, free it of fat and let reduce with some good brown sauce (No. 414), 
and after it attains a sufficient succulence and is well-reduced, run it through a tammy over 
the cherries. Dress the duck in the center of a dish, pour half, the gravy over, lay the cherries 
around and serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat. 


608 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1924), DUCKS WITH OLIVES—BRAISED (Canards Braisés aux Olives), 


Dress two ducks for entrées (No. 178) and lay them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat. 
pork; moisten to half their height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) and let boil, skim 
and simmer slowly for three-quarters to one hour. Stone about one pound of verdal olives, blanch, 
drain and add them to a brown sauce (No. 414) stirred in the mirepoix stock from the ducks after 
it has been strained and skimmed. Dress the ducks, cover lightly with sauce and garnish around 
with the olives. 


(1925), DUCKS WITH SAUERKRAUT (Canards 4 la Choucroute), 


Dress two nice ducks; place them in a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, some carrots 
and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 1238); moisten with stock (No.194a), boil; skim and 
cook in a moderate oven for an hour toanhourahalf. Put two pounds of well washed sauerkraut. 
in asaucepan, add two onions, one containing two cloves, half a pound of sliced carrots, half a 
pound of blanched breast of bacon and half a pound of raw sausage (with or without garlic ac- 
cording to taste). Moisten with half broth and half fat taken from the stock-pot, boil and cook 
slowly for two hours, then drain and dish it around the duck with the sausage and bacon cut in 
' slices dressed intercalated. Stir a poivrade sauce (No. 522) into the duck stock, pour a third 
of it over the ducks, serving the other two-thirds separately. 


(1926). DUCKS WITH TURNIPS (Canards aux Navets), 


Truss a good, clean singed duck, lay it in a saucepan with melted fat pork or else lard, and 
fry very slowly until it acquires a fine color, then season and fry for a few moments longer, drain- 
ing it off afterward. Pour into the same fat a tablespoonful of flour, cook slowly together for a 
few moments, moistening gradually with a pint of stock (No.194a); stir the sauce while it keeps boil - 
ing for fifteen minutes on the side of the range. Skim off the fat, strain, and add this strained sauce 
to the duck with a garnishing of good, sound turnips cut in clove of garlic-shapes or else in balls, 
-and browned in a pan with butter, salt, and a little sugar; finish cooking the duck and turnips on 
a very slow fire, and when both are ready, lift out the bird, untruss, and dress it in the center of a 
dish, surrounding it with the turnips; strain the stock, skim and reduce, if there should be too 
much, and when correct, pour it over the duck, and serve. 


(1927). DUCKS’ GIBLETS, HOUSEKEEPERS’ STYLE (Abatis de Canards & la Ménagére), ' 


After a duck has been drawn and singed, chop off the neck as far down as the back, and 
divide this neck into two or three pieces. Remove the gall from the liver, being careful not to 
break it, and cut the liver in two or three pieces according to its size. Clean the wings well. Put 
four ounces of butter into a saucepan with the wings, the neck, and four ounces of lean salt pork 
blanched and cut in quarter inch squares; when these are nicely fried, add the liver, dredge in for 
every set of giblets a heaping tablespoonful of flour; stir well and let the flour cook for one second, 
then moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine; season with salt and pepper, and add one 
dozen small onions, and as many carrots cut pear-shape; let simmer for one hour and a half, remove 
the fat from the surface and put in a pint of uncooked green peas, then boil together for half an 
hour longer. When well done and properly seasoned, dress the meats in the middle of a dish with 
the vegetables arranged around, pour the sauce over and serve. 


(1928). DUCKS’ PAUPIETTES WITH RISOT (Paupiettes de Canards au Risot), 


Singe some young ducks; bone them entirely, removing all the meat and use this to make a 
well seasoned quenelle forcemeat into which mix finely cut up chives, truffles, and mushrooms, 
both chopped and three-sixteenth of an inch squares of cooked ham. With this forcemeat cover 
pieces of the duck’s skin cut in four or six parts, and roll them up into paupiettes, covering each 
one with a slice of fat pork; lay these in buttered paupiette rings, and place them ina sautoir covered 
with bardes of fat pork, and moisten with some good stock (No. 194a); cover over with a buttered 
paper, and then a round baking dish which will fit into the saucepan. Cook in a moderate oven, 
and when done and glazed to a fine color, take from the rings and dress them in a circle; garnish 
the center with risot (No. 789), and place a channeled mushroom head (No. 118) on top of each 
paupiette; serve with a sauce prepared as follows: Fry some minced onions in oil, drain, place it in 
a saucepan with lemon juice, mignonette, and Spanish sauce (No. 414), also the skimmed duck stock 


reduced to a half-glaze, and then strained through a tammy; serve it 1n a sauce-boat at the same 
time as the paupiettes. 


POULTRY. 609" 


(1929), MONGREL DUCK—ROASTED AND STUFFED (Carnard Métis Farci et Roti), 


A mongrel duck is the mixed breed of the wild and the domestic duck; it is generally larger’ 
than the domestic, and is usually served stuffed with a dressing made of soaked and pressed bread-- 
crumbs, into which mingle chopped and blanched onions, chopped parsley, butter or chopped up: 
marrow, salt pepper and nutmeg. Put.the duck in a baking pan, cover with fat and roast in the 
oven, basting over at frequent intervals while cooking. A mongrel duck will take from an hour 
and a quarter to an hour and a half, and a goose from two and a half to three hours. Dress on 
a long dish; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) into the roasting pan, strain off the fat and reduce, 
pour a little of this over the bird and serve the remainder apart. 


(1930), DUCKLING A L'ANDALOUSE (Caneton & l’Andalouse). 


Procure a young duck; singe, draw and clean it well, then truss it as for an entrée (No. 178); 
fry it very slowly with chopped up leaf lard and when it assumes a fine color, remove it from 
the saucepan, drain off the fat and cover the bottom with slices of ham, cut up carrots 
and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and the duck; moisten 
with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten with a little stock (No.. 
194a), and let fall to a glaze twice more. After the duck is half cooked pour in two gills of Malaga. 
wine and finish cooking slowly for about three-quarters of an hour; transfer the duck to another’ 
saucepan and keep it hot. Strain the stock and reduce it with the same amount of espagnole sauce: 
(No. 414), to the consistency of a succulent sauce, and add to it a garnishing of small mushroom: 
buttons, stoned Spanish olives, and small ball-shaped chicken quenelles; dress the duck, garnishing 
with part of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately. 


(1931), DUCKLINGS ALA BORDELAISE—SAUTED (Canetons: Sautés & la Bordelaise), 


Cut up two ducklings into five pieces each, obtaining the two legs, the two wings and one 
piece from the breastbone; pare them nicely, leaving on the pinions, but suppressing the bone from. 
the legs, sauté in half clarified butter and half oil with the addition of four ounces of bacon cut in 
three-sixteenth of an inch squares, the well-chopped livers, two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallot, 
the same of parsley and a soupcon of garlic; moisten with white wine, add half a pound of finely 
chopped cépes, four ounces of cooked ham cut in eighth of inch squares, espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
and some tomato purée (No. 730). Remove at the first boil, dress the duck, pour the sauce over,.. 
garnish the extremities with paper frills (No. 10), and serve immediately. 


(1932), DUCKLING A LA BOURGUIGNONNE—FRIED (Caneton Frit & la Bourguignonne)... 


Divide a young tender duck into five pieces; two legs, two wings and a breast piece; pare? 
nicely leaving the pinion bones on the wings and suppressing the leg bones; lay these pieces in @. 
vessel to season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped parsley, very little pulverized thyme and 
bay leaf and olive oil. Break up the carcass, fry it in butter, until well colored, adding mushroom 
parings, shallots, cloves, mignonette and nutmeg, then moisten with red wine and cook the whole: 
slowly for half an hour, strain through a sieve and add this stock gradually to an espagnole sauce - 
(No. 414), that is being reduced, and boil both together to the consistency of a light gravy. Roll: 
the pieces of drained duck in flour, immerse them in eggs and fry in a very white frying fat over a 
moderate fire, allowing them to attain a fine golden brown while cooking, serve on a folded napkin - 
with the sauce in a sauce-boat. 


(1933), DUCKLINGS A LA GRAINVILLE—LARDED (Canetons Piqués & la Grainville), 


Haye two ducklings, draw, singe and lard them with medium lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52)... 
having previously plunged them in boiling water to render the meat firm. Line a saucepan: 
with some slices of ham, place the ducklings on top and set around carrots, onions and a bunch 
of parsley garnished with bay leaf and thyme. Moisten to half their height with stock (No. 194ay 
and finish cooking, basting over frequently and glazing them in such a way that they attain a nice 
color: strain the stock free of its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup, mix in some 
blanched chopped up shallots, then remove from the fire and squeeze in the juice of two oranges. 
Dress and garnish around with slices of apple besprinkled with sugar and cooked in the oven; serve= 


the sauce in a sauce-boat separately. 


610 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1934), DUOKLING A LA LYONNAISE (Caneton & la Lyonnaise), 


Bone the breast of a large duckling, singed and well cleaned. Fill up the empty space 
with a liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), mixed with a few spoonfuls of lean cooked ham 
cut in dice-shapes, and bread-crumbs, sew the breast skin, truss the duck, wrap it up in larding 
pork and let braise in a narrow saucepan slightly moistened with some stock (No. 194a), and a 
little white wine. Drain the duck, untie and untruss, then dress it on a dish and surround with 
clusters of small glazed onions alternated with clusters of whole chestnuts, first cooked, then fallen 
to aglaze with a little gravy (No. 404). Strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it to a half- 
glaze, thicken it with a little brown sauce (No. 414), and serve it separately. 


(1935), DUCKLINGS’ FILLETS A LA MACEDOINE OR GREEN PEAS (Filets de Canetons & la 
Macédoine ou aux petits pois), 


Singe, drain, and clean two young ducklings trussed for entrée (No. 178); lay them in a sauce- 
pan lined with bardes of fat pork, moisten to half their height with good mirepoix wine stock 
(No. 419), let boil, then skim or simmer over a slow fire or in the oven until done, 
basting over at frequent intervals, and glazing to a fine color; it will take from three-quarters of ar 
hour to one hour to cook them. When the ducks are thoroughly done, remove the fillets, strain, skim, 
and reduce the stock with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when it becomes succulent and properly 
reduced, add it to the fillets with a piece of fine butter, rolling all the while to mix well. Dress 
the fillets in a circle, filling the inside with a macédoine of vegetables (No. 680), or small fresh peas 
with bacon prepared as follows: Have half a pound of bacon cut in half inch dice, unsalt by parboil- 
ing, drain and fry in butter with some small onions; moisten with brown sauce (No. 414), and some 
of the duck stock, let simmer until the onions and bacon are cooked, then throw in three pints of 
peas cooked French style (No. 2743). Mix all together and pour it into the center of the fillets, or 
alse serve with a garnishing of cucumbers and Villeroi (No. 2782). 


(1936), DUCOKLINGS’ FILLETS A LA PERIGUEUX (Filets de Oanetons & la Périgueux), 


This entrée is to be dressed on a wooden foundation covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 
142). Have a small pyramidal mold, smooth and well rounded, and poach in it a loaf of chicken 
or veal forcemeat mingled with an equal quantity of liver baking foreemeat (No. 64); keep this mold 
in water until needed. Cook six ducklings ina good mirepoix stock (No. 419), having only very little 





Fig. 376. 


liquid, and when done drain them out to untruss; detach the two fillets from each breast retaining 
both skin and wing bones, then pare. Quickly unmold the small forcemeat loaf on the center of 
the paste-covered foundation; mask it over with velouté (No. 415), reduced with the duck stock, and 
dress the fillets in a detruncated circle around, that is the six fillets on the right side are to incline 
one way, while the six on the left the other. On the summit of the support, in the hollow formed 
by the points of the fillets, dress a tasteful cluster of small. round truffles peeled and cooked when 
required with Madeira sauce, and glazed over with a brush. Lightly cover over the fillets and the 


bottom of the dish with more of the same sauce, and send a sauce-boatful of it at the same time as 
the fillets, 


(1937), DUCKLING A LA ROUENNAISE (Caneton & la Rouennaise), 


Chop up half a pound of onions, blanch, then fry in butter: chop up also half a pound of 
chicken livers, and half a pound of leaf lard, each one separately; mingle all together, and when 
very hot thicken with six egg-yolks; add four ounces of bread-crumbs to this preparation, some 
chopped parsley, and finely cut up chives. Remove the breastbone from a duck and fill the empty 


DS CO NX 1% 611 


space with the above; truss for roasting and wrap it up in buttered paper, and roast for about 


half an hour. Serve it on a little clear gravy (No. 404), and have a sauce-boatful of the 


following sauce: Cut up two ounces of onions in one-eighth of an inch squares; cook them in salted 
water, drain and return them to a saucepan to moisten with red wine; when this has fallen to a 
glaze dilute it with espagnole sauce (No. 414). 


(1938) DUCKLING WITH GREEN MAYONNAISE AND FINE HERBS—BROILED AND 
ROASTED—(Caneton Grillé et Roti & la Mayonnaise Verte aux Fines Herbes), 


Broiled.—Split a singed, clean young duckling through the back, open it entirely and flatten 
well, trim neatly cutting off the legs at the first joint, salt and cover with oil; put it in a hinged 
double broiler, close and broil over a moderate even fire for about eighteen minutes; when done 
and of a fine color, dress on a hot dish, serve separately a sauce-boat of green mayonnaise fine 
herb sauce (No. 612). 


Roasted.—After singing and drawing the duckling, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and cook 
either on the spit or in the oven for twenty-five to thirty-five minutes; baste frequently, salt only 
when cooked, then untruss and dress on a very hot dish, pour some clear gravy (No. 404), 
over and garnish around with water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar. 


(1939), DUCKLING, PEASANT STYLE (Caneton & la Paysanne), 


Blanch and braise a small curled cabbage after cutting it in quarters and taking out the core, 
blanch separately some trimmed carrots and turnips, and celery root cut like cloves of garlic. Fry 
six ounces of half inch pieces of bacon ina saucepan, remove it with the skimmer leaving the fat in 
the sauce-pan, and in this fry very slowly a clean duckling trussed—as for an entrée (No. 178); when 
of a fine color moisten it with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten 
with a very little stock (No. 194a), and bring it twice toa glaze. After the duckling is partly 
cooked, put in the bacon and vegetables, moisten with broth to half the height finish cooking 
the whole very slowly on the fire or else in the oven. At the last moment untruss the duck and 
dress it on a dish, surrounding it with the garnishings and the quartered cabbage; lengthen the 
stock with a little more gravy, strain and thicken it with either some sauce or kneaded butter 
(No. 579); boil for two minutes, strain and pour it over the duck. 


(1940), SALMIS OF DUCKLING (Salmis de Caneton), 


To Roast.—Select a young and very tender duck, prepare and truss. it for roasting the same 
as explained in No. 179; 1t should be roasted on the spit or in the oven for fifteen to twenty-five 
minutes according to its size and the heat of the fire. A domestic duck ought to be served quite 
rare, and should be killed without bleeding. Dish it after untrussing and pour over a little of 
its gravy, garnish around with water-cress and serve the remainder of the gravy in a sauce- 
boat. 

For the Salmis.—Cut the roasted duck up in two or three slices from each breast. Chop up 
the legs and carcasses and fry them in butter with an ounce of onions and as much shallot, both 
minced very finely; add the parings, pepper and mignonette, then moisten with red wine and some 
brown sauce (No. 414); reduce this to half, strain it through a tammy and pour it over the pieces. 
of dressed duck; surround with heart-shaped bread crofitons and serve very hot. 


(1941), DUCKLING, WITH BIGARADE SAUCE (aneton & la Sauce Bigarade), 


Make a small hash with some fresh pork, the duck’s liver and two cooked chicken livers; mix 
into it a handful of white bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk and two or three spoonfuls of mushrooms, 
onions and parsley all minced very fine. With this preparation fill a duck’s stomach; sew up the 
apertures, truss and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting liberally with butter. 
Drain and dress it on a dish with some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve a bigarade sauce 
(No. 435) separately. 


(1942), DUCKLING, WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Caneton aux Topinambours). 
Cook the duckling the same as for Andalouse (No. 1930), and when done dress and surround 
it with a garnishing of glazed and peeled Jerusalem artichokes; serve with a separate sauce- 
boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) worked with butter and finished with parsley and lemon juice. 


612 THE. EPICUREAN. 


(1943), DUGKLINGS, WITH ORANGES (Canetons aux Oranges) 


Prepare two ducklings as for an entrée (I’9. 178). Line a saucepan ora braziere (Fig. 134) with. - 
carrots, onions, fragments of fat pork, slices of ham and raw veal, a bunch of parsley garnished 
with thyme and bay leaf, mushroom peelings and melted fat pork. Lay the ducklings over, the- 
breasts upper-most and pour on a pint of stock (No. 194a); cover and reduce the liquid slowly and 
completely, then remoisten with half stock and half champagne or white wine, and let simmer until 
thoroughly cooked. Strain the stock, remove its fat, despumate and reduce it to a half-glaze; take. 
out a fourth part of it and to the remainder, add the blanched and shredded peels of two oranges; 
let cook again for fifteen minutes. Peel two oranges, free of all pith, remove the pulp between 
each section and take out the seeds, then add this to the sauce; dish the ducklings, cover with a. 
quarter of the sauce kept aside and surround with two medium oranges cut in four. Serve the 
sauce separately at the same time as the ducks, or else substitute an orange sauce (No. 511). 


(1944), BUSTARD EN DAUBE—WILD GOOSE (Outarde en Daube—Oie Sauvage), 


As abustard is nearly always tough, it is necessary to hang it up for several days. Pick, singe, 
draw and clean it well; cut off the pinions, neck and drumsticks; detach the legs from the body as. 
well as the breasts, and lard all these meats with large shreds of raw ham, then season; lay them 
in a vessel with a pint of vinegar andas much water, let macerate for twenty-four hours. Cover the- 
bottom and sides of a large stone stock pot with thin slices of fat pork, range in the bottom a few 
smail carrots and turnips in the shape of three-fourth inch balls, a few onions, a bunch of aromatic: 
herbs and two boned and blanched calf’s feet, dredge over whole peppers and cloves then put in: 
the carcass, legs and breast pieces after draining them from their marinade. Moisten to half the- 
height of the meats with white wine, cover over with bards of fat pork, and reduce the liquid for- 
a few moments. Close the vessel hermetically with a piece of paper and a common plate half 
filled with water and let it cook very slowly in the oven for six to seven hours, according to its ten- 
derness; remove carefully and dress on a large dish with the calf’s feet and vegetables; skim 
the fat from the strained liquid and strain it again over the meat. 


(1945), GOOSE A LA CHIPOLATA (ie & la Chipolata), 


4. whole goose can either be served as a relevé or as a roast; the slices, legs and giblets as an: 
entrée. <A goose is usually served at unceremonious dinners. Draw and singe a goose, clean it well. 
and truss it as for an entrée (No. 178); fill the inside with a sausage forcemeat (No. 68) into which mix. 
a handful of bread-crumbs, several eggs and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season highly. Line a. 
braziere with bards of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with. 
chervil; lay the goose on top of these, surround it with bits of veal and moisten with Madeira wine, 
broth and white wine to half its height; boil, skim and simmer for three to four hours until) 
properly cooked. Strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce to half, then pour it into some- 
brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced, adding more of the Madeira. Dress the goose- 
and garnish around with clusters of small braised and glazed onions, blanched carrots cooked in 
stock (No. 194a), braised chestnuts fallen to a glaze, and mushroom heads cooked, turned and; 
channeled (No. 118); cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(1946), GOOSE A LA ROYER (ie a& la Royer). 


Prepare the same as for the chipolata (No. 1945) and after the stock has been strained,. 
skimmed and reduced to a half-glaze, add to it the juice of one orange, some currant jelly and’ 
finely shredded cooked orange peel, pour a part of this sauce over the goose, and garnish: 
around with sour apple tartlets (No. 3327); serve the rest of the sauce separately. 


(1947), GOOSE A LA THIEBLIN—ROASTED (Oie Rétie & la Thiéblin), 


Pick out a fine goose, draw, singe and clean it thoroughly, then truss it for roasting. Boik 
fifty peeled chestnuts in some stock (No, 194a) with a few shredded celery stalks, adding only sufficient 
of the moisture just to allow them to cook, and when done, drain. Put two pounds of pork force- 
meat in a sautoir over a brisk fire, cook, stir occasionally and season with salt, mignonette, nutmeg, 
chopped parsley, a handful of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs, add the chestnuts and use this. 
dressing to fill the insides of the goose, wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper and roast it 
for two and a half hours, basting it over frequently. Twenty-five minutes before serving, unwrap. 


POULTRY. | 613 


‘the goose and return it to the spit in order to have it acquire a fine color, dress and serve with 


~Zuchette sauce (No. 564). Garnish around the goose with croustades filled with gooseberries preparing 


them in the following way: Have two pounds of gooseberries, cut off the tops and stalks, blanch for 
two minutes, then drain. Cook in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of sugar to small crack, add 
the gooseberries, toss them gently, then cool off, stir in as much whipped cream as there are goose- 
berries, having it unsweetened and well drained; serve a sauce-boat of gravy (No. 404) at the 
same time. 


(1948), GOOSE, GERMAN STYLE—ROASTED (Oie Rotie & l’Allemande), 


Prepare and cook the goose the same as for stuffed with chestnuts (No. 1950), but instead of 
filling with chestnut forcemeat, substitute ten apples, peeled, quartered, cored and cooked in a 
‘vessel with six ounces of dried currants and four ounces of seeded raisins, half a pound of bread- 
erumbs, cinnamon and two whole eggs. Mince well a red cabbage after carefully removing all 
the hard parts and lay it in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a), from which the fat has not been 
removed, and salt, cook slowly until ready to serve, then put in a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
‘garnish around the goose with this cabbage and outside of it set a string of small broiled sausages 
(No. 754). 


(1949), GEESE GIBLETS WITH TURNIPS (Abatis d’Oie aux Navets), 


Put half a pound of unsalted bacon into a saucepan with a little butter and let fry for a few 
moments, then add the giblets prepared as for No. 1927 and the seasoning, also two dozen small 
onions and four dozen turnips cut the size and shape of large Spanish olives, having previously fried 
them in butter with a pinch of sugar. Drain them and add them to the stew with a bunch of 
parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and pour in some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and 
stock (No. 194a), boil, skim and simmer for half an hour; season to taste with salt and pepper. 
When the giblets are cooked, remove the parsley and serve the meat in the center of a dish with 
the vegetables around and the sauce poured over the whole. 


(1950), GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS AND WITH SAUSAGES AND CHESTNUTS— 
ROASTED (Oie Rétie Farcie aux Marrons et aux Saucisses et Marrons), 

Select a fine goose; singe and reserve the fat and giblets, then wipe out the insides and fill it, 
also the breast with a dressing prepared as follows: Take one pound of chopped veal, and two pounds 
of chopped fat pork, only mixing them together afterward, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and allspice; add two gills of stock (No. 149a) or water, and pound the whole together; then mix 








Fig. 377. 


in sixty chestnuts that have been roasted in the oven and freed of skins. Truss the goose and lay 
it in a roasting-pan with its own fat and haifa pint of hot water, sprinkle fine salt over it, and 


cover with a buttered paper; then place it in the oven to cook for three hours, being careful to 


baste it occasionally; it should be well done; salt over, untruss, and dress on a dish; skim the fat 
from the surface of its liquid, pour in a little gravy (No. 404), boil, and then strain through a sieve. 
Throw a little of this over the goose and serve the remainder separately. 

With Sausages and Chestnuts.—Prepare and cook the goose exactly the same only omit putting 
the chestnuts in the dressing; but braise them and use them for garnishing both sides of the goose 
and arrange small broiled Chipolata sausages (No. 754) on the ends. 


(1951), GOSLING A LA SOYER (Oison & la Soyer). 


Draw, singe, and clean well a young goose; truss, filling the inside with a dressing made of a 
pound of finely chopped beef suet, a pound of soaked bread-crumbs, having all the water extracted, 


614 THE EPICUREAN. 


half a pound of butter, some onions fried in butter with the goose liver cut in small squares, sage, 
thyme, basil, marjoram, parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roast the goose either on the spit or in 
the oven for an hour and a half to two hours, basting it frequently. When done, dish it up on top 
of a purée of apples seasoned with sugar and nutmeg. Peel some apples cut in four; range on a 
generously buttered dish, sprinkled over with sugar, and cook for ten minutes in the hot oven, 
and lay around the goose. Serve separate a sauce prepared with the glaze from the dripping pan 
detaching it with a little gravy (No. 404), strain and skim; mix in gradually some espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) in which currant jelly has been dissolved; strain the whole through a sieve, and serve it 
in a sauce-boat to accompany the goose. 


(1952), ROAST GOSLING OR MONGREL GOOSE (Oison ou Oie Métisse Rotis), 


A gosling roasted on the spit makes an excellent dish. It canalso be cooked ina slow oven laid 
in a narrow earthenware (Fig. 377) or iron pan with plenty of fat; generally both these birds are 
stuffed before being roasted. A mongrel goose may be filled with partly broiled chestnuts lightly fried 
in butter or fat pork; it can also be stuffed with small apples after removing the core with a tube 
five-eighths of an inch in diameter, or both chestnuts and apples can be replaced by a fresh pork hash 
into which fine herbs and bread-crumbs have been mixed, or even by small sausages roasted partially 
in fat pork or grease. If the goose be large it will take two to three hours to have it tender; when a, 
gosling is cooked on the spit it must first be trussed, then wrapped in buttered paper and roasted. 
for one hour, being careful to baste frequently and to remove the paper after it has been in three- 
quarters of an hour to let it acquire a fine brown color, and it is then served simply with good. 
reduced gravy (No. 404). A kind of thick pancake can be served at the same time made with 
bread-crumbs soaked, pressed, then pounded in a bowl and diluted with whole eggs and milk, sea- 
soning with salt, pepper, pulverized thyme and marjoram and chopped blanched onions. Lay this 
preparation on a well-greased tin sheet and cook in the oven basting it bountifully with Boe 
grease, after cutting it into inch and a half squares. . 


(1953), GOSLING. SAUTED WITH TOMATOES, ROBERT SAUCE (Oison Sauté aux Tomates a la. 
‘Sauce Robert), 


Have a good gosling, singe, draw and cut it up into seven pieces—the two legs and five pieces 
taken from the breast; season with salt and pepper and fry slowly in lard. Drain off the fat and 
detach the glaze from the pan with a little clear gravy (No. 404). Cut twelve peeled tomatoes across. 
in two, press out the juice and seeds and fry them in a frying pan with very hot oil; season with 
salt, pepper and a crushed and chopped clove of garlic. When the pieces are cooked, dish up and 
dress the fried tomatoes over; sprinkle very green chopped parsley on top, pour the gravy aro 
and serve separately some Robert sauce (No. 533), 


(1954), GOSLING STEWED WITH TURNIPS (Ragotit d’Oison aux Navets), 


Cut up a small tender and well cleaned gosling into medium-sized pieces, suppressing the. 


pinions, drumsticks and neck; cut also half a pound of lean bacon into half inch squares; fry 
them for a few moments in aeior. and remove with the skimmer, leaving the fat in the saucepan; 
lay the pieces of goose into this fat, fry over a hot fire while stirring, season and add one onion 
and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the meats are browned, drain 
off the fat and dredge the goose with flour, moisten to its height with hot stock (No. 194a), and boil 
up this liquid while stirring, letting it remain in this state for ten minutes; the sauce should now be 
slightly thickened. Cover well the saucepan with its lid and continue to cook moderately. Take 
raw turnips and cut them into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter, place them in a pan 
with the strained fat from the goose, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, ane color them briskly; 
when half cooked lift out the pieces of goose to trim neatly, strain its stock and return it to a clean 
saucepan with a gill of Marsala wine, the pieces of goose, the bacon and the turnips; boil together 
for ten minutes and finish cooking in a slack oven. The gosling and turnips should both be found 
done at the same time; dress all in a deep dish with very little sauce. 


POULTRY. | 615. 


(1955), GUINEA FOWL (Pintade), 


The guinea fowl is a pretty bird the same size as an ordinary fowl, having slate-colored: 





Fig. 378. 


feathers covered with small round white spots; it is raised in the poultry yard; when young its - 
meat 1s most agreeable to eat. The fecundity of a guinea fowl is most remarkable. 


(1956), GUINEA FOWLS LARDED AND DECORATED WITH THEIR OWN FEATHERS— 
ROASTED (Pintades Piquées Réties Garnies de Leur Plumage). 


Guinea fowls are frequently disguised with their own or with pheasants’ feathers, for their: 
resemblance is almost similar. Select young guinea fowls, dress and truss them as if intended for 
roasting (No. 179); plunge the breasts in boiling water to stiffen the skin and lard them with very. 
fine shreds of larding pork (No. 8, Fig. 52); wrap them up in several sheets of buttered paper, then: 
roast them either on the spit or in the oven; when they are three-quarters done, unwrap and brown: 
a fine color; salt and dress on crotitons of bread fried in butter, and decorate with either their own 
feathers; serve a separate sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404). 


(1957) GUINEA FOWLS FILLETS A LA GAILLARDET (Filets de Pintades & la Gaillardet), 


Raise the fillets from half a dozen young guinea fowls, remove the skin and epidermis, and 
sauté them over a brisk fire, but without coloring. Set them under a weight and when partly cold 
pare them into half hearts, cover with some well-reduced Villeroi sauce (No. 560) and range them 
as quickly as they are ready on a tin sheet to cool thoroughly. Detach them from this sheet, roll 
them in bread-crumbs, dip in eggs and again in bread-crumbs, smoothing the breading with the 
blade of a knife. Fry them in clarified butter to a fine golden brown, drain on a napkin and trim 
the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), then dress in a circle and garnish the center of the dish 
with tomatoes fried in oil with finely chopped shallots and mushrooms, also some chopped parsley; 
serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(1958), GUINEA FOWLS WITH SAUERKRAUT (Pintades & la Choucroute), 


Cook two pcunds of good sauerkraut perfectly plain with a piece of smoked bacon and half a 
pound of sausages. Bard two young guinea fowls and cook them smothered in a saucepan; when 
nearly done, add them to the sauerkraut, which is not thoroughly cooked yet, and finish both 
together. Drain off the fowls and meat and reduce the liquid remaining in the sauerkraut, thick- 
ening it with a piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); finish off the fire with a piece of plain butter. 
Dress on a dish, form a hollow in the center and lay in it the cut up fowls glazing them over 
simply with a brush; serve a clear gravy (No. 404) separately. 


(1959). PIGEONS A LA CHARTREUSE (Pigeons & la Chartreuse), 


Blanch half a cabbage and cut it up into two parts, remove the core, then braise these with 
half a pound of bacon. Place some melted fat pork in a saucepan and fry in it three pigeons; when 
colored range them over the cabbage and garnish the spaces between the pigeons with turnips and 
carrots each blanched separately, and small onions browned in a pan; season and then withdraw the: 
saucepan, pushing it into a moderate oven. A quarter of an hour later moisten with a gill of hot 
stock (No. 194a). Finish cooking the pigeons and vegetables very slowly; untruss the birds and 


G16 THE EPICUREAN. 


dress them over the braised cabbage laid in the center of the dish; between each pigeon place a 
cluster of of onions, turnips and carrots, separating each one of these by a thick slice of the 
bacon standing upright. Increase the quantity of pigeon stock with a little clear gravy (No. 404), 
suppress all the fat and thicken lightly with a little brown sauce (No. 414); strain this, pour part 
over the pigeons, cut the causages in slices and dress them around the pigeons one overlapping the 
other. Serve the rest of the sauce separately. 


(1960), PIGEONS A LA LOMBARDY—POELED (Pigeonneaux a la Lombarde—Poélés), 


Prepare eight pigeons; singe, draw and truss for an entrée (No. 178); wrap them up in a dry 
matignon (No. 406), with slices of fat pork and then in strong buttered paper. Butter and gar- 
nish the bottom of a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, 
add the pigeons, half a pint of white wine and as much stock (No. 194a), boil until there is no 
more moisture, then remoisten to ‘half the height of the birds and let simmer gently until they are 
cooked, which will take from thirty to forty-five minutes, drain and strain the stock, skim off all 
its fat and reduce. Dish the pigeons in a circle over artichoke bottoms fried in butter and fill up 
the middle with a garnishing of escaloped sweetbreads also fried in butler, and on top lay small 
squares of cooked lean ham half an inch in diameter and fried in butter, and over these cooked 
channeled mushroom (No. 118) heads. Cover these garnishings with velouté sauce (No. 415) 
stirred into the pigeon stock and serve also a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. 


(1961). PIGEONS A LA VALENCIENNES (Pigeons a la Valenciennes), 


Cut six ounces of bacon into small dice; fry them for afew moments in butter, then lift out, 
leaving the fat in the saucepan, and into this put three fine, clean and trussed pigeons, also a 
few small onions anda garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Fry and moisten to half their height 
with broth, let fall to a glaze and remoisten once more to half the height of the pigeons and finish 
eooking over a moderate fire. When they are almost done strain the stock and return it to the sauce- 
span without the onions and parsley and let boil up; now add four gills of good rice for each quart 
of liquid; put back the bacon and a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168) and finish all. 
together. Dish up the rice, untruss the pigeons and dress them on top, surround the whole with 
small chipolata sausages and the small onions. 


(1962). PIGEONS GARNISHED WITH MONTGLAS CASES—STUFFED (Pigeons Farcis Garnis 
de Caisses Montglas), 


Fasten a wooden foundation on a dish, it to be one inch high and not too wide; cover with cooked 
paste (No. 131) or noodle paste (No. 142) decorated on the top with a piping in relief and having a 
wooden or tin triangle or conical-shaped support in the center, also covered with paste and bored on 





Fie 379. 


top so that a skewer can beinserted. Bone the breasts of three young, clean pigeons by splitting them 
lightly through the back, but leaving the legs and thighs attached to the bodies; season the inside 
meats and fill the breasts with baking liver forcemeat (No. 81) combined with a third as much raw 
forcemeat (No. 89), a few spoonfuls of cooked lean ham and as much cooked truffles, all to be well 
chopped; sew up the back, truss as for an entrée (No. 178) with the legs thrust inside the body, bard 
over and wrap each one in a small buttered cloth, then cook in a good poéler stock. As soon as the 
pigeons are done, drain, unwrap and retighten the cloth more firmly; put them back into their stock 
to leave cool, then drain again and when unwrapped, wipe them carefully with acloth. Now detach 
the breasts from the rump of each pigeon to cut into lengthwise slices, return them to their original 


POULTRY. 617 


position and then place the birds in a sautoir with a part of their stock reduced to a half-glaze 
warm them in the open oven basting frequently. Remove the pigeons to a small baking sheet, 
smooth the cut parts nicely and cover the breasts with a not too thick Mornay sauce (No. 504), so 
the form of the pigeons remain intact; place them for a moment in the hot oven to have the sauce 
adhere, then dress them at once in a triangle almost standing upright against the support; on top 
of this insert a small skewer garnished with truffles; surround the bottom of the dish with a chain 
of smail china cases filled with montglas (No. 747), then covered with a layer of forcemeat and 
poached in a bain-marie; when serving this entrée send also a sauce-boatful of the reduced pigeon 
stock thickened with a little sauce. 


(1963), PIGEONS, HUNTRESS STYLE—BREASTS (Filets de Pigeons Chasseresse), 


Raise the fillets from six pigeons leaving the minion fillet adhere, pare and suppress the skin, 
then salt and lay them in a sautoir with butter and lemon juice; place this on a hot fire and as 
soon as they are firm to the touch, remove to place under a weight; then pare again and cover one 
side only witha salpicon of sweetbreads, truffles and mushrooms mingled with well-reduced allemande 
sauce (No. 407). Cover this salpicon with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) diluted with a little 
cream. Dust the tops with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, mask with butter and lay 
the breasts in a sautoir, having the bottom covered with thin slices of fat pork, set it in the hot 
oven and when the breasts are of a fine color and very warm, dress them in a circle, pouring a 
Diana sauce (No. 460) in the middle. 


(1964), PIGEONS, MONARCH STYLE—SMOTHERED (Pigeons au Monarque—a l'Btuvée), 


Choose six good squabs; draw, singe, and clean them well; dip the breasts into boiling water 
to harden the skin and facilitate the larding process, then lard them withsmalllardons of fat pork , 
(No. 4, Fig. 54), and braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419); glaze and let them get a fine 
color; when done, drain and dress. Garnish around with stuffed olives, truffles, mushrooms, 
quenelles, cocks’-combs, and kidneys, or the combs may be imitated by pieces of veal palate removed 
with a cutter into comb-shapes. Cover with a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom 
essence (No. 398), and thickened with raw egg-yolks and fresh butter, sending some of the sauce 
to the table separately. Surround these garnishings with trussed crawfish, and between these lay 
slices of foies-gras an inch and a quarter in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, 
breaded a la Villeroi and fried. 


(1965), POTTED PIGEONS (Ragotit de Pigeons au Four), 


After cleaning and singeing six pigeons, cut them up into four pieces; lay three ounces of butter 
in a saucepan with six ounces of bacon cut in quarter inch squares, when this begins to brown put in 
four ounces of onions cut inslices. Range the, pigeons in an earthen pot or deep dish with a bed oi 
the bacon on the bottom, the pigeons on top, and more bacon over; add salt, pepper, and sprigs of 
thyme; moisten with thin brown sauce (No. 414), placing here and there a few pieces of pilot 
cracker dipped in water. Boil and then let simmer or push in the oven until thoroughly done, 
and serve in the same crock they have been cooked in. 


(1966), PIGEONS, PRINTANIERE STYLE (Pigeons a la Printaniére), 


Prepare a garnishing composec of carrots and turnip balls formed with a half inch vegetable- 
spoon, and some large green peas; have the carrots and turnips blanched separately, and the peas 
simply cooked in an untinned copper pan. Break the breastbones of three tender pigeons, remove 
these bones and fill the breasts with a dressing made of fresh fat pork, chicken livers cooked, 
chopped. and pounded with a little panada and two egg-yolks. Truss the pigeons with the legs 
thrust inside for entrée (No. 178), and lay them in a saucepan lined with fat pork, roots, and 
minced onions; cook them almost dry, only having a very little stock (No. 194a), reduce it to a 
glaze, and repeat this several times, when finished; drain them off, untruss and cut each one in 
two lengthwise, then reconstruct them into their former shape. Dress them on a dish leaning 
them against a triangle-shaped fried bread support fastened on the center of the dish, and be- 
tween each pigeon set a different garnishing namely; the carrots, turnips, and peas. Increase the 
quantity of stock with a little stock (No. 194a), strain, skim, and reduce it, thicken it with brown 


sauce (No. 414), and serve it in a sauce-boat. 


618 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1967), STEWED PIGEONS (Pigeons en Compote), 


Bleed six young pigeons in order to kill them, reserving the blood in a bowl; mix with it a 
spoonful of vinegar to prevent its coagulating. After the pigeons are drawn, singed and well 
cleansed, truss them with the legs thrust inside. Glaze four dozen small, raw onions, cut eight 
ounces of bacon into half inch pieces and fry them for a few moments in a saucepan with butter; 
remove them with a skimmer leaving in the fat, and to this add the pigeons, fry them on all their 
sides, and season when they have acquired a fine color, then dredge over a spoonful of flour and cook 
together for two minutes while tossing them about, now moisten the pigeons gradually to their 
height with white wine and hot stock (No. 194a), stir the liquid till it boils rapidly, then leave it in 
this state for five minutes, afterward removing the saucepan to a more moderate fire; now 
add a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 128) and some mushroom peelings. When the pigeons are 
three-quarters done, put ir both the glazed onions and the bacon and finish cooking together. “At 


the last moment, drain out the pigeons, untruss and range them on a dish surrounded by the garn-- 


ishings. Strain the sauce, free it of fat and thicken it with the blood mixed with two raw egg- 
yolks, cook this thickening without boiling it and finish the sauce with a piece of butter, then 
strain it over the pigeons. 


(1968), PIGEONS WITH CRAWFISH (Pigeons aux Ecrevisses). 


Cook some small crawfish with salt, white wine and parsley; break off the tails and suppress — 


their shells in order to be able to pare them, chop up the fragments and add them to a little bread 
forcemeat finished with fine herbs and egg-yolks. Break the breastbones of two or three pigeons 
so as to remove the bone, fill up the empty space with the prepared forcemeat, truss and braise 
them with very little moisture, then strain off the stock, free it of fat and add to it a few spoon- 
fuls of the crawfish stock, thickening with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, then put in the craw- 
fish tails, untruss the pigeons, dish them and pour the sauce over. 


(1969), PIGEONS WITH GREEN PEAS (Pigeons aux Petits Pois), 


Truss six pigeons as for an entrée (No. 178), returning the livers to their original place. Melt 
some chopped fat pork in a saucepan, add to it a quarter of a pound of small five-eighths inch 
“squares of bacon and fry for a few moments, then remove them with a skimmer. Put the pigeons 
into this saucepan with five or six small onions for each bird, brown slightly and slowly, then add 
one and a half quarts of green peas, a bunch of parsley and the bacon. Two minutes later 
moisten with two gills of stock (No. 194a), boil for five minutes and withdraw the saucepan to a 
slower fire, push into the oven, and finish cooking the peas and pigeons, then drain out the birds, 
untruss and dress them on a dish; thicken the peas with kneaded butter (No. 579), and place 
them around the pigeons. 


(1970). PIGEONS WITH OLIVES—BREASTS (Filets de Pigeons aux Olives), 
This entrée is dressed in the hollow of a cooked paste border (No. 10) cut into points and open- 
worked with a pastry cutter. The band intended for making the border should be cut out on a 
floured table as soon as it has been rolled; fasten it on a dish a quarter of an inch from the inside edge, 


: es 
Eva ca \ 





Fie. 380. 


spreading it slightly; egg it over with a brush and dry for a few hours. After this pasteis dried, lay 
inside of it a wooden foundation covered with more of the same paste rolled out thin. Besides this, 
prepare a little raw chicken forcemeat (No. 89) mixed with an equal quantity of baked liver force- 
meat (No. 80) pounded and passed through atammy. Poach this forcemeat in a pyramidical mold 


1a Wl DB SG 619 


rounded and smooth an inch and a half high, placed in a bain-marie; unmold this pyramid in the 
center of the dish, for it is intended to uphold the entrée. Selectafew dozen of the finest and largest 
Spanish olives procurable; stone and blanch them to stuff with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78). Singe: 
six young but large pigeons quite fleshy, fill the breasts with a spoonful of grated fat pork and fresh 
chopped truffle peelings; truss and cover with fat pork, then cook in some good stock; as soon as done 
remove to untruss; detach the breasts from the back, remove the two fillets from both breasts, sup- 
press the skin, pare and take off the minions. Lay the six fillets from the left side in a small sautoir, 
mask them with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the pigeon stock and Madeira; cover 
and keep them hot. Pare the other six fillets, mask them alsoon the inside witha layer of baking 
forcemeat thickened with a little raw forcemeat, smooth well, and range these fillets in another small 
sautoir having a little half-glaze on the bottom to heat the forcemeat; warm it while glazing cver 
with a brush. At the last moment unmold the pyramid, lay the fillets around alternating them, 
and all turned in the same direction standing almost upright. Dress a part of the olives in the 
ceuter space formed by the circle on top of the pyramid, and range the others around the open- 
worked border. Cover the fillets lightly with the sauce, also the garnishings and serve more. 
separately. : 


(1971), PULLET A LA ARCO VALLEY (Poularde & la Arco Valley). 


Prepare, cook, and dress the pullet the same as for 4 la Seymour(No. 1981); serve at the same 
time but separately a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom broth aud thickened when 
ready to serve with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley, small mushroom. 
buttons and small chicken quenelles. Garnish around with cassolettes (No. 860) of oysters poached, 
drained and mingled with allemande sauce (No. 407). 


(1972), PULLET A LA DAME BLANCHE (Poularde ila Dame Blanche), 


Truss a pulleé to be served as an entrée (No. 178), rub over the breast with half a lemon, and. 
cover with slices of fat pork. Poéler the pullet in some good stock, as explained in No. 
12, adding to it a piece of bacon previously blanched. When the pullet is cooked, strain the stock, 
free it of fat, and keep the chicken hot inthis. Place on the fire to reduce four gills of veloute: 
sauce (No. 415), incorporating a part of the reduced stock slowly into it with a coffeespoonful of 
prepared red pepper (No. 168); when succulent, strain. Dress the pullet on athin layer of forcemeat 
(No. 79) poached on a dish, surround it with small clusters of potatoes cut in balls with a large vege- 
table scoop, and simply cooked first in salted water, then steamed. Cover the pullet with a part of 
the sauce, serving the remainder separately. Pullets or capons may be handed round tothe guests. 
after being cut up, and they can also be carved on the dining-room sideboard, and served on hot. 
plates with some of the garnishing, and a little of the sauce. 


(1973), PULLET A LA DEMIDOFF (Poularde & la Demidoff), 


Draw a pullet through the side; crack the breastbone so as to be able to draw it out and fill the 
empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), containing cooked fine herhs (No. 385) and chopped 
truffles, sew up the skin underneath, also the side opening, and truss the pullet to be served as ar. 
entrée (No. 178). Cover over with fat pork, and cook it for an hour and a half in some good mirepoix 
stock (No.419). When done to perfection, drain, untruss, and dress it on adish having a bottom of 
eroustade rice fastened to it and surround with a garnishing dressed in groups composed of small 
truffle balls cut out with a three-eighths vegetablespoon, small balls from the red part of carrots, 
and small balls of white turnips, also clusters of fresh green peas cooked English style in an un- 
tinned pan. Cover the pullet with a little velouté sauce (No, 415) strained and reduced with the 
pullet stock, and finished with two spoonfuls of good raw cream, serving a sauce-boat of velouté 


sauce (No. 415) separately. 


(1974), PULLET A LA LEONDISE (Poularde & la Léondise). 


ange it on a layer of macaroni into which. 


Roast the pullet the same as No. 1996 and r 
Serve with a sauce-boat of: 


has been mixed crawfish or shrimp tails, mushrooms, and quenelles. 
financiére sauce (No. 464). 


620 THE EPICUREAN. 


(1975), PULLET A LA LESTER WALLACK (Poularde & la Tester Wallack), 


Break and remove the breastbone of a clean pullet, fill in the empty breast space with a dress- 
ing made of grated fat pork, chopped mushrooms, and bread steeped in milk and this liquid squeezed 
out; truss as for an entrée (No. 178), cover with bards of fat pork, and poéler it quite white (No. 12), 
then untie and dress on a rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish; surround it simply with 
turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118), cooked artichoke bottoms about two and a half 
inches in diameter, removing the center with a five-eighths of an inch cutter, then divide into eight 
pieces, andsmall chicken quenelles poached in salted water; all these garnishings to be arranged in 
‘separate groups. Cover the pullet with some good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced and thickened 
with egg-yolks and cream, and finished at the last moment with a salpicon of foies-gras (No. 748), 
passed through a fine sieve; serve more of the sauce in a saace-boat. 


(1976), PULLET ALA MARTINIERE (Poularde & la Martiniére), 


Poéler a pullet very white (No. 12); drain and cut it up into eight pieces; dress them simply on a 
force-meat ring poached on the dish; surround with a circle of medium-sized poached spoon quenelles 
(No. 155), and cover the chicken and quenelles with good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with 
mushroom peelings, and finished with a little good cream. Serve the remainder of the sauce separ- 
ately with very small and very white mushrooms added. 


(1977), PULLET A LA MORNAY (Poularde & 1a Mornay), 


Select a good clean pullet and truss it for entrée (No. 178); poéler it in a stock (No. 194a), keeping 
it very white, then drain, and when half cold detach the bread so as to be able to dress a garnish- 
ing in the empty spaces of the remaining carcass. Escalop these breast fillets and lay them ina 
sautoir with a garnishing composed of cocks’-combs and kidneys, mushrooms and foies-gras, and 
moisten this stew rather sparingly with reduced thick allemande sauce (No. 407). Range this in the 
cleaned out empty space, having them reassume their former shape, smooth them nicely and cover 
with a layer of Mornay sauce (No. 504), smooth this also and besprinkle over with a grated parme- 
san cheese, then glaze the surface under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a hot oven. After finishing 
the pullet dress it on a long dish containing a layer of poached forcemeat, cover the breasts with 
‘a row of slices of truffies and surround the base with clusters of chicken croquettes. we 


(1978), PULLET A LA NANTUA (Poularde & la Nantua), 


Split down the back of a singed and very clean pullet; bone the breast and legs, leaving on the 
wing bones; season the inside meats and fill the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) 
combined with crawfish butter (No. 573) and prepared red pepper (No. 168) also the crawfish tails 
eut lengthwise in two. Sew up the pullet, truss and have the breast well rounded, then cover 
cver with slices of fat pork and lay it in a narrow saucepan, cover three-quarters of its height with 
skimmed stock (No. 194a), adding aromatic herbs and mushroom peelings; cook it in this alone 
for one hour; it should really only be poached; then drain off the pullet, untie and dress it on 
a thin layer of forcemeat poached on a. dish; cover:lightly with:velouté. sauce (No. 415) reduced 
with a part of the stock and finished with red butter (No. 580). Surround with small timbales 
of fat rice made in timbale molds (No. 6) letting it be quite white; serve the remainder of the 
sauce in a sauce-boat. 


(1979), PULLET A‘ LA PERIGORD (Poularde & la Périgord), 


After the pullet has been singed stuff the breast with pounded veal suet seasoned with salt, 
prepared red pepper (No. 168) and a clove of garlic, adding to it some chopped up truffles. 
Insert thick slices of truffles between the fat and skin, then wrap the fowl in a matignon (No. 
406) and roast it on the spit or oven; unwrap and reduce the matignon with espagnole sauce (No. 
414) and Madeira; dress the pullet with some clear gravy (No. 404) and serve the sauce separately. 


(1980), PULLET A LA PRINTANIERE—GLAZED (Poularde Glacée % la Printanire), 


Have a clean, singed pullet; break the breast bone and stuff the breast with grated fat pork 
mingled with truffle peelings, truss for entrée (No. 178). Scald the breast in boiling water to 
harden the meat, then dip these scalded parts at once into cold water, wipe dry and lard with fine 
lardons of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), Lay the puliet in a saucepan containing fragments of fat 


pork, roots and minced onions, salt over and steam for fifteen to twenty minutes, then moisten. 


~~ 


a) POULTRY. 622 


with two or three gills of stock (No. 194a) and allow it to fall to a glaze. Remoisten to half its 
height with stock and reduce the liquid slowly to half, finish cooking the pullet in this 
manner, basting it over frequently; when done it should be glazed to a fine color; drain it off to 
untruss and dress on a dish, surrounding it on both sides with clusters of new cooked carrots and. 
small glazed onions. Strain and skim the pullet stock, reduce it until it becomes succulent, then. 
thicken with a little good brown sauce (No. 414), serving it in a sauce-boat. 


(1981), PULLET A LA SEYMOUR (Poularde & la Seymour), 


Soak a pound and a half of bread in milk, then press out all the liquid and add it to half a 
pound of very finely chopped beef suet taken from around the kidneys anda seasoning of shallots, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, cream and egg-yolks; use this to stuff the inside and the breast of a 
pullet, prepared for roasting (No. 179), tie it up and cover with fat pork, then roast it before a good: 
fire basting it over frequently, remove, dress and pour on some clear gravy (No. 404), then serve. 


(1982), PULLET A LA VILLARS (Poularde a la Villars), 


Truss a pullet as for an entrée (No..178) with the legs inside; rub over the breasts with half a 
lemon, cover with bards of fat pork, tie well and poéler it in some good stock (No. 12) keeping it very 
white. Just when prepared to serve, drain out the pullet, untie and dress it on a trimmed rice 
croustade foundation fastened on a dish, and surround it with a white garnishing composed of 
lamb’s sweetbreads, cocks’-kidneys and mushroom heads, dressed in clusters and these alter- 
nated with fine slices of red beef tongue cut in points to resemble cocks’-combs. Cover the pullet 
and garnishings with a little Villars sauce (No. 559) and serve more of it separately. 


(1983), PULLET A LA ZINGARA (Poularde & la Zingara). 


Draw two pullets, singe and truss with the legs inside, then tie, stiffen the breast meats and 
lard them with lardons of tongue and fat pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Line the bottom of a saucepan. 
with bards of the same pork and slices of veal, round slices of carrots and onions, one whole onion. 
containing a clove and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; lay the pullets on 
top, cover over with strong buttered paper and moisten with one quart of stock (No. 194a); boil, 
skim and cook slowly for an hour to an hour and a half, and thirty minutes before serving allow 
it to brown toa nice color. Pound four ounces of unsmoked red beef tongue with the same. 
amount of butter, season with pepper and grated nutmeg and dissolve this in a quarter of a pint 
of meat glaze (No. 402), heat it up and add a little espagnole (No. 414); rub the whole through a 
tammy and lay this purée on the bottom of a dish with the pullets on top. 


(1984), PULLET, ANCIENT STYLE (Poularde @ 1’Ancienne), 

Draw and singe a pullet, trim and insert slices of truffle between the skin and flesh, truss as: 
for an entrée (No. 178), and lard the legs with rosettes of truffles, bard it nicely and cook in stock 
(No. 194a) then drain and dress garnishing around with cauliflower and serving a separate well- 
buttered velouté sauce (No. 415) into which mingle some chopped up truffles. 


(1985), PULLET, ENGLISH STYLE (Poularde a |’Anglaise), 
After the pullet is cooked as for ancient style (No. 1984), dress it the same, only changing the 
garnishing to one of potatoes, carrots, turnips, Brussels sprouts and green peas, the whole cooked 
in salted water; serve a cream béchamel (No. 411) separately. 


(1986), PULLET, EGYPTIAN STYLE—BROILED (Poularde Grillée 4 l'Egyptienne). 

First braise the pullet and when cold cut it up and place it in a vessel with salt, pepper, oil and 
lemon juice, drain, then immerse in bread-crumbs, saturate with oil and broil over a slow fire. 
When very hot and of a fine color dress on a layer of rice oriental style (No. 2978). Serve with a 
separate espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which has been added prepared red pepper (No. 168). 


(1987). PULLET IN SURPRISE (Poularde en Surprise), 


Dress a pullet leaving the neck skin very long; break the breast bone in order to remove it and 
fill the empty breast space with rather firm quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Truss the pullet with 
the legs thrust under the skin and wrap the breast around with thin slices of fat pork, braise (No. 12) 


622 THE EPICUREAN. 


it the same time as a chicken and then let both get eold. Untruss the pullet, divide the 
breasts from the carcass, leaving on the legs and a part of the breast, so that it forms a long hollow 
case: lay it erect on a small baking sheet and fill the bottom of the hollow case with a layer of 
chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach this for two minutes in a slack oven. Cut the two pullet 
fillets into large Julienne, also those taken from the cooked chicken; put them in a saucepan with 
the same quantity of cooked foies-gras and as many cooked truffles both cut up the same size as 
the chicken meat, mingling some good reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) with the whole; it should 





remain quite consistent. Dress this on the top of the cream forcemeat in the hollow case, smooth 
it well rounded on top, and cover with a thick layer of the same forcemeat; smooth this carefully 
to the shape of the original breast in order to have the pullet served whole. Decorate both sides 
of the breast with graduated truffle crescents; butter the forcemeat lightly with a brush and poach 
in a very slack oven. After removing the pullet, dress it on a dish having its bottom covered 
with a layer of foundation rice (No. 160) to maintain it in position, and lay on the outer edge a fancy 
silver border (Fig. 6); keep the whole hot for ten minutes, then remove and dress on each side a 
cluster of very white mushrooms; cover them as well as the breast with a little supréme sauce (No. 
547) prepared with the stock and serve with a sauce-boatful of the same. 


(1988), PULLET IVORY WITH DECORATED QUENELLES (Poularde 4 lIvoire aux Quenelles 
Décorées), 


ww 

Break the breast bone of a cleaned and singed pullet, tie it up as for an entrée (No. 178) and 
insert a piece of butter into the breast; cover over with bards of fat pork and set it in a saucepan 
of its own dimensions; moisten to its height with stock (No. 194a), boil the liquid over a hot 
fire then remove the saucepan on a slower one, cover and finish cooking the pullet for forty-five 
to sixty minutes. As soon as done to perfection, strain the stock through a napkin into another 
vessel leaving the pullet to keep warm. Skim the fat from the stock and pour the top gently into 
another saucepan, then reduce it with some velouté sauce (No. 415) and cream; strain this through 


a tammy. Dress the pullet, pour the sauce over, and garnish around with chicken quenelles deco- 
rated with truffles (No. 154). 


(1989), PULLET, MODERN STYLE (Poularde & la Moderne), : 


Peel two pounds of fresh truffles and chop up the peelings; pound them with one pound of 
panada, adding half as much raw foies-gras; continue to pound, putting in eight ounces of grated 
fat pork, a few eggs and seasoning, then rub the whole through a sieve. Fill the breasts of a pullet 
with a part of this dressing, using the remainder for the insides; braise (No. 12) with a very little 
moistening; dress when cooked, and garnish around with cocks’-combs, and the peeled truffles 
sautéd in butter, and cooked in Madeira. Reduce the braise stock with velouté sauce (No. 415), 
and just when ready to serve incorporate a few pats of fine butter; pour it over the pullet and 
garnishings, and serve some well-buttered chicken purée (No. 718) separately. 


(1990), PULLET, PARISIAN STYLE—STUFFED (Poularde Farcie & la Parisienne), 


This entrée is dressed on a dish decorated with an open-work border made of cooked paste (No. 
10), having the empty space in the center covered with a wooden foundation masked over with noodle 
paste (No. 142), dried in the air. Drawa pullet through the side, break the breastbone to be able to 
draw it out, and stuff the breast with quenelle foreemeat (No. 89), finished with a few spoonfuls of 
cooked fine herbs (No,385), and a foles-gras salpicon cut in three-eighths of an inch dice, and truffles 


POULTRY ES | 623 


of the same size; sew the breast skin underneath, and truss the pullet as for entrée (No. 178); cover 
with slices of fat pork and cook in a good stock (No. 194a), keeping it white, and when done 
properly, drain, untie, and untruss. Lay it on the foundation already placed on the dish; surround 








it with a garnishing of round truffles cooked at the last moment with Madeira and melted glaze (No. 
402). Cover the pullet with some good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with its own stock and the 
Madeira and glaze in which the truffles have been cooked, and serve a sauce-boat of the sauce 
at the same time. 


(1991), PULLET TARTAR SAUCE—BROILED (Poularde Grillée & la Sauce Tartare), 


Draw and truss a pullet as for an entrée (No. 178), then split it down the center of the back, 
flatten and bread-crumb it English style with egg-yolks and butter beaten together; broil on a slow 
fire, and serve on a very hot dish; pour a little good gravy (No. 404) under, and send to the table 
with a separate tartar sauce (No. 631). 


(1992), TRUFFLED ROASTED PULLET (Poularde Truffée Rotie), 


A few days before this is needed draw the pullet through the side and wipe the inside well. Peel 
twelve to sixteen ounces of fine, fresh truffles, leaving them either whole or cut in two or four 
according to their size. Melt two ounces of grated fat pork in a saucepan, add to it the truffles 
and season with fine allspice; fry for two minutes, remove and use this to stuff the breast of the 
pullet. Sew up the openings and truss, then lay it aside in a cool place. When needed wrap it 
in buttered paper, run it on a spit (No. 118) or else lay it in a small cradle spit (No. 116) without 
boring any hole through it whatever, and roast it for one hour, basting frequently. Unwrap it 
ten minutes before serving to salt over and allow to attain a fine color; take it out, untie and send 
it to the table with a sauce-boat of good reduced gravy (No. 404) into which has been added the 
chopped up truffle peelings. 


(1993), PULLET WITH CROUSTADES FINANOIERE (Poularde aux Croustades Financiére), 


Draw a pullet, singe and free it well of all the pin feathers adhering to the flesh; truss as for 
an entrée (No. 178) and rub over with lemon juice; wrap it up in thin slices of fat pork, tying it 
on firmly. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with bards of fat pork, slices of veal, two slices of 
raw, smoked ham, a few cut up carrots, two onions, two cloves, a bunch of parsley garnished with 
thyme and bay leaf, and season with salt and whole peppers; place it on the fire and let simmer 
for an hour or more and when done, strain the stock through a napkin, remove its fat and reduce 
it with two gills of espagnole (No. 414). Drain the pullet, untruss and lay it on a dish, garnishing 
around with some croustades made in molds (No. 3, Fig. 187) and filled with financiére salpicon 


(No. 667). 


(1994), PULLET WITH MUSSELS OR OYSTERS (Poularde aux Moules ou aux Huitres), 


Truss and cook a pullet exactly as with the ravioles (No. 1995), wash some mussels in several 
waters and place them in a covered saucepan over a brisk fire to open; when this occurs remove 
from their shells, transfer them to another vessel. Fry coloi/ess in butter a little parsley and 
chives, add two gills of either béchamel (No. 409) or velouté (No. 415), a little stock (No. 194a) and 
grated nutmeg; boil this sauce up once or twice, then put in either the mussels or else some 
prepared oysters; just when ready to serve, drain the pullet, untruss and dress. Thicken the 
sauce with a few raw egg-yolks and fine butter, heat it up without boiling and range the garnish- 
ings around the pullet, cover over with a part of the sauce and serve what remains separately. 


624 THE EPICUREAN. 





(1995), PULLET WITH RAVIOLES (Poularde aux Ravioles), 


Draw a fine pullet, singe and clean it well, truss it for an entrée, (No. 178), and cover over 
with slices of fat pork. Butter the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134), lay over some sliced onions 
and carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic and two 
cloves. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) to three-quarters its height, then boil, skim and cook 
slowly for one hour and a half to two hours; drain off the stock, free it of fat and return this to the 
braziere to keep the pullet warm. Reduce the stock with velouté (No. 415) if for white, or espag- 
nole (No. 414) if for brown. Dress the pullet ona layer of ravioles (No. 2976) mingled with some 
velouté or espagnole and parmesan cheese, and serve a separate sauce-boat of the sauce with cooked 
fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley added. 


(1996), PULLET GARNISHED WITH WATER-CRESS—ROASTED (Poularde Rotie au Cresson), 


Six to nine months old pullets are the most desirable ones especially when quite fat. Roasted 
poultry should be treated with extreme care, for the roast is the most essential part of a dinner 
and is partaken of by almost every one. Should the fowl not be barded, then it must be enveloped — 
in a buttered paper and basted frequently while cooking, either with butter or else good poultry — 
fat. Draw and singe a good pullet, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and place it on the spit or in 
the oven, although roasting on the spit is far the most preferable. When the pullet is nicely 
done dress and surround with water-cress, serving its own gravy strained and free of fat sepa- 
rately. 


(1997, BLANQUETTE OF PULLET WITH MUSHROOMS (Blanquette de Poularde aux 
Champignons), | 


Begin by detaching the legs from a trussed and singed pullet, cut each of these in two, then 
lay them in a vessel containing water; divide the breast in two and cut each piece into three parts;. 
plunge them also into the cold water with the cut up carcass; let soak for fifteen to twenty minutes 
then drain and lay them in a saucepan with an onion and a bunch of parsley, and cover plentifully 
with white chicken broth (No.188); boil and skim this liquid for twelve minutes then take it off the 
fire. Prepare a white roux (No.163) with flour and butter, dilute it with the strained and skimmed 
pullet broth when partially cold and stir this sauce well until it boils; let it despumate for a quarter 
of an hour on the side of the fire while removing the fat from the surface. Pare and wipe the pieces 
of pullet, return them to the saucepan with two dozen turned mushrooms (No. 118); strain the 
sauce over and finish cooking, finally dressing the pieces of pullet in a deep dish with the mush- 
rooms. Reduce the sauce for a few miuutes, thicken with two egg-yolks finishing it off the fire 
with a piece of butter worked in, also some lemon juice; strain and pour it over the pullet. — 


(1998), PULLETS A LA MONTMORENCY—BREASTS (Filets de Poularde & la Montmorency), 


Fasten to a dish a plain or ring-shaped bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 181) or noodle 
paste (No. 142), having in its center a tin cup equally covered with ornamental pieces of paste, egg 
it all over and dry in the air. Pare tlie fillets of five small pullets, suppressing the superficia} 








skin, remove the minion fillets and streak them with truffles, also suppress the pinion bones, 


trimming them into half hearts rounded on one end and pointed on the other. Place the minion 
1 x Te 27D ft oy . a ‘ ° 

ee on the larger ones, both slightly bent; Range the fillets on the bottom of a sautoir with a 
ayer of cold clarified butter, being careful to have them all lie in one direction, so that the pointed 


BOUCHE Mi ean. 


ends extend toward thecenter. With the cut up pullet carcasses, prepare a little chicken essence: 
(No. 387) and when done and nicely seasoned, strain and skim off the fat and incorporate into it a 
few gills of good velouté (No. 415) in the act of being reduced. When this sauce is perfect and: 
succulent, finish it with a few spoonfuls of good, raw cream and afterward a piece of fresh butter;. 
keep it in a bain-marie till needed. Just when ready to serve, sprinkle the fillets over with salt and 
poach them lightly, drain and dress in a circle on the foundation prepared on the dish. Fill the- 


center cup with a garnishing of peeled truffles cooked in Madeira; cover the fillets lightly with the: 
sauce, serving the rest in a sauce-boat. 


(1999), PULLET A LA MONTPENSIER—MINION FILLETS (Filets Mignons de Poularde a la 
Montpensier), 


Streak twelve minion fillets with truffles, shape them into rings two inches in diameter and’ 
poach them with butter in a small sautoir. Cut twelve quarter inch thick slices from the middle- 
part of freshly cooked red beef tongue and from each of these slices cut out around piece the same- 
size as the minion fillet rings; lay these tongue rounds on thin crusts of bread fried in butter and 
covered with a layer of consistent soubise (No. 723), then mask the tongue rounds with a layer of 
reduced thick Madeira sauce (No. 492), and on top set the minion fillet rings, one on each, filling 
in their hollow spaces with a large stuffed Spanish olive standing upright and covered with more 
of the same Madeira sauce. Dress the hot fillets in a circle and in the center place a garnishing of 
green asparagus tops (No. 2693). 


(2000). PULLETS’ BREASTS A LA VARSOVIAN (Filets de Poularde & la Varsovienne), 


Prepare and cook the pullet fillets as for Montmorency (No. 1998), poach them in butter and 
dish in a circle intercalating with a crofton of bread fried in butter; fill the center with cépes: 
sauted with fine herbs and garnish around with small chicken croquettes (No. 877) made crescent- 
shaped and fried in hot and very white frying fat. Cover the fillets with béchamel (No. 409) into 
which has been mixed a little meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice; have a sauce-boat of the same: 
sauce served at the same time as the fillets. 


(2001), PULLETS’ BREASTS A LA VISCONTI (Filets de Poularde & la Visconti). 


Pare the fillets of three pullets each one weighing from three to four pounds; suppress the 
superficial skin covering the minions, also the pinion bones; beat them lightly, giving them the 
shape of a half heart on one end and pointed on the other; range these fillets on the bottom of a 
sautoir covered with a layer of clarified, and cold butter being careful to place them all in sucha 
way that the sharp ends point toward the center. Just when ready to serve, salt them over and 
cook slowly on both sides while turning, then drain and dress in a circle on a ring of poached force- 
meat laid on a dish. Serve them with a garnishing in the center composed of cocks’-combs and 
kidneys, mushrooms and truffles, mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547), into which has been added 
half its quantity of mushroom purée (No. 722). 


(2002), PULLETS’ MINION FILLETS WITH MACEDOINE (Filets Mignons de Poularde 4 la 
Macédoine), 


Pare twelve pullets’ minion fillets, remove the outer skin and inside sinew; pare and streak 
with three-quarter circles of red beef tongue cut into graduated sizes; range them on the bottom 
of a sautoir and cover with clarified butter, forming each one into the shape of a crescent, salt, 
sprinkle with butter, and cook in a slow oven, then drain off. Cover a dish with a garnishing of 
macédoine vegetables mixed with béchamel (No. 680), and finished with a few spoonfuls of melted 
glaze (No. 402) and several small pats of fresh butter; surround this with the minion Bets: Fill 
some crescent-shaped bottomless molds placed on a sheet of buttered paper with quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 89) leveled to the height of the mold with the blade of a knife. Place a sautoir on the fire 
containing clarified butter, set in the molds having the paper on top, push in the oven to detach 
the paper; remove this and lay the sautoir on the fire to color the crescent to a fine color on Fy 
sides; unmold, drain, and dress the minion fillets on these, and around arrange the macedoine 


garnishing (No. 680). 


626 THE. BPICUREAN. 


(2003), PULLETY’ LEGS A LA BAYONNAISE (Quisses de Poularde & la Bayonnaise), 


Remove the legs from three singed pullets retaining the skin covering the back as far down as 
the rump; bone them entirely with the exception of the drumstick; put them in a vessel with salt, 
uggnonette, lemon juice and a broken bay leaf; let marinate for three hours, being careful to turn 
them over several times. Twenty-five minutes before serving, drain and roll each one in flour, fry 
them in grated fat pork and when they attain a fine color and are well cooked, remove. Slice four 
medium onions three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; detach the pieces so they form rings, flour 
over and fry these to a golden brown. Dress the legs in the middle of a dish, cover over with 
brown. poivrade sauce (No. 522) with some grated Bayonne ham added to it, and garnish the whole 
with the fried onions; trim the stump bones with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately. 


(2004). PULLETS’ LEGS DEVILED (Ouisses de Poulardes & la Diable), 


Generally this dish is prepared with pullets’ legs already cooked and then broiled, but raw ones 
can also be used. Score and season well—pepper should predominate—then roll them in mustard 
diluted with oil; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and broil on a slow fire, turning them over. Serve 
with a deviled sauce (No. 459). 


(2005), PULLETS’ LEGS WITH NEW CARROTS (Cuisses de Poulardes aux Carottes Nouvelles), 


Have three singed pullets and from them remove the legs and the skin covering the back, bone 
them entirely, retaining the drum sticks; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and cooked 
fine herbs (No. 385), shaping them like a cutlet; cover with slices of fat pork and braise them in a 
little mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 419) into which add six dozen small new blanched 
carrots, but in case there be no new ones procurable use others, cutting them up to represent the 
new ones. When these are cooked, lift them out and place them in a saucepan with a little 
butter, chicken glaze (No. 398) and fine herbs. Strain the stock, free it of fat and reduce it with 
espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of half-glaze; skim well the surface of the sauce; dress 
the legs in the center of a dish with the new or other carrots around, pour over some of the sauce 
and serve the remainder of it separately. 


(2006), SQUABS A LA BRIAND (Pigeonneaux a la Briand), 


Soak bread-crumbs in a little broth; press it to extract well the moisture, then lay it in a bowl 
with a quarter as much good butter, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; work this preparation 
well, seasoning with salt, pepper, parsley and onions chopped and blanched; use this for filling the 
squabs, then truss them for an entrée (No. 178) and run them on the spit to roast, being careful 
to baste over occasionally with butter; untie them, remove the larding pork covering the breasts 
and lay them on a bed of sautéd tomatoes (No. 2841). Serve a brown sauce (No. 414) separately 
into which mix Worcestershire sauce, meat glaze (No. 402), chopped parsley and tarragon vinegar. 


(2007). SQUABS CRAPAUDINE—BROILED (Pigeonneaux Grillés Crapaudine), 


After a squab has been well drawn, singed and thoroughly cleaned, cut each side from the 
pinion of the wing to the tip of the breast; open without de- 
taching the parts, having the legs and back on one end, and 
the breast on the other; beat well to flatten, season and dip in 
melted butter; roll them in bread-crumbs and broil slowly. 
While this is progressing chop up one. shallot exceedingly 
fine, blanch, drain and fry it colorless in butter, add to it some 
clear gravy (No. 404) and a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) 
and white wine; season and then pour this sauce into a dish, 
dress the squabs on it and surround with slices of lemon cut in halves. 





Fic. 384. 


(2008). SQUABS A LA ORISPI (Pigeonneaux a la Crispi), 


Bone the backs of some small squabs, fill the insides with quenelle foreemeat (No. 89), con- 
taining mushrooms, ham and truffles cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, enclosing it well 
in the birds. Lay some rings in a sautoir already garnished with slices of fat pork, and place the 
squabs inside these rings, cover with more slices of the pork and moisten with a very little mire- 
poix stock (No. 419) with Madeira wine, and when cooked place a round tin plate on- the squabs 


4 


with a weight on top to flatten the birds slightly. Dress them crown-shaped and cover over 


with green ravigote. sauce (No. 581); lay a cooked trussed crawfish and serve more of the sauce 


_ separately. 


ete ) 
Ae (2009). SQUABS A LA FLOURENS (Pigeonneaux & la Flourens), 

Procure eight squabs, draw, singe and truss as for an entrée (No.178), or one squab for each guest 
Chop up very fine eight ounces of beef marrow, mix with it eight ounces of butter, some chopped 
parsley, finely cut up chives, eight chopped tarragon leaves, a little crushed and chopped garlic, 
salt, pepper, four ounces of lean ham cut into one-eighth inch squares, four ounces of bread-crumbs 


,and.two whole eggs. Fill the squabs with this dressing and roast them either on the spit or in the 
-oven for thirty minutes, basting them frequently. When done, untruss, dress in a circle and pour 
in a garnishing of sweetbreads and artichoke bottoms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares to which 
has been added some espagnole sauce (No. 414). Serve some of this sauce separately. 


(2010), SQUABS A L'IMPROMPTU—SAUTED (Pigeonneaux Sautés % ’Impromptw), 


After the squabs are prepared the same as for broiling, fry them in clarified butter, and when 


‘done, dress. Fry and cook colorless a teaspoonful of chopped shallots for each pigeon, add to it a 


little flour, moisten lightly with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, boil and skim; reduce this rapidly 
over a hot fire and just when ready to serve, incorporate a little fine butter, lemon juice and 
f£hopped parsley; pour this over the squabs and serve at once. 


(2011), SQUABS A LA STANISLAS—STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis & la Stanislas), 

Fry eight ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares in butter, also as much 
fresh mushrooms sliced the same size, with a little chopped shallot and parsley. Fill the pigeons 
with this preparation and roast them. Haye as many round truffles as there are pigeons, each one 
inch in circumference, peel and use the parings to pound with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and 
with this make some quenelles the shape and size of large verdal olives; poach and put them into 
an allemande sauce (No. 407) with a little meat glaze (No. 402), also the peeled truffles and some 
channeled mushrooms (No. 118). When the squabs are roasted untruss and dish up with the 
garnishings ranged around. 


(2012). SQUABS, AMERICAN STYLE—STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis 4 |’Américaine), 


Have six squabs, draw, singe lightly and truss as for roasting (No. 179); fill the insides with 
an American bread dressing (No. 61), and cover the breasts with thin slices of fat pork; roast 
them either in the oven or on the spit; they take about twenty minutes when stuffed and 
fifteen when not. Dress and surround with slices of broiled bacon, pouring a little clear gravy 
(No. 404) around. 


(2013). SQUABS, COLBERT SAUCE—BROILED (Pigeonneaux Grillés Sauce Colbert), 


Select small squabs and after they have been plucked, drawn and singed, clean them 
nicely and cut the necks from the bodies; truss with the legs thrust inside and split them down 
through the back the whole length as far as the rump; beat the breasts to have them quite flat, pare, 
then season with salt and mignonette; immerse them in melted butter and roll in bread-crumbs; 
then broil over a slow fire for about ten minutes, laying them with the breast side downward and 
turning them over as fast as they attain a good color, finish cooking and dress with some gravy 
(No: 404) poured over or else serve them on a Colbert sauce (No. 451); garnish around with slices of 


lemon cut in halves. 


(2014). SQUABS, ENGLISH STYLE (Pigeonneaux & l’Anglaise), 


Truss eight squabs as for an entrée (No. 178), wrap them up in bards of fat pork. Lay them in 
a saucepan lined with thin slices of ham and moisten to their height with white wine mirepoix stock 
(No. 419); cover with a round sheet of buttered paper and place the lidon tight. Boil andsimmer 
until the squabs are thoroughly done; which will take about twenty-five minutes. Prepare eight 
oval-shaped bread crofitons, three inches long by two wide, make an incision all around a quarter 
of an inch from the edge and to half their depth, then fry in clarified butter, and empty out the 


‘center. Dress the squabs on these crofitons, range on a dish,and place . between each a vegeta- 
Gisertnryan\ ih (G sok fy DUDS Stee Di lame. 7 Pau does koa Denes 2 


628 THE EPICUREAN. 


ble garnishing composed of carrots trimmed to imitate new ones, then blanched and cooked in 
broth; turnips shaped like corks with the edges rounded, then blanched and cooked in white stock 
(No. 194a), small green peas boiled in salted water with fresh mint, tossing with butter after 
draining, and string beans boiled in salted water and finished with butter, fill in the center with a 
fine cauliflower boiled in salted water and having butter noured over. Serve a York sauce (No. 
563) separately. 


(2015). SQUABS, NEW YORK STYLE (Pigeonneaux & la New Yorkaise), 


Have some squabs drawn, singed, cleaned, and trussed for an entrée (No. 178); fry them white 
in butter and dredge over a little flour; fry for a few moments longer without browning, then 
moisten with beef stock (No. 194a); add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, 
small onions, potato balls made five-eighths of an inch in circumference, and small half inch dice 
of bacon fried in butter. A few moments before serving, add some quenelles shaped to represent 
large verdal olives either of godiveau or else of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which 
mingle chopped sweetbreads and parsley; poach these in boiling water. Just when ready to serve, 
remove the parsley, thicken the stew with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, and incorporate a 
piece of fresh butter, and dress the squabs in the middle of a dish with the garnishing around, 


(2016), SQUABS WITH TARRAGON (Pigeonneaux & l’Estragon), 


After the squabs have been drawn and singed, split them lengthwise in two down the back, 
but do not separate the parts; beat lightly, and season with pepper and salt. Put two ounces of 
butter into a sauté pan, and after it begins to heat, lay in the squabs, the breast side downward, 
and set it on a brisk fire; when browned on one side, turn them to do likewise on the other; they 
take about twelve minutes to cook. Dress and pour off half the butter in the pan, and to the 
remainder add a pinch of flour, stir well, pour in some clear gravy (No. 404), two tablespoonfuls of 
good tarragon vinegar, and salt; let the sauce give one or two boils, season it nicely, and pour it 
over the squabs. 


(2017). SQUABS WITH FIGARO SAUCE—FRIED (Pigeonneaux Frits & la Sauce Figaro), 


Singe and draw some young, tender pigeons; truss as foran entrée (No, 178), then wrap them in 
slices of fat pork. Butter a saucepan, line it with sliced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch 
of parsley (No. 123); lay the squabs on top. Moisten to half their height and let the liquid fali to 
a glaze, then remoisten and boil very slowly until cooked to perfection, adding half a bottleful of 
white wine, pouring it in at two or three different intervals. Let the squabs become cold, then 
split them in two, pare nicely and dip them in frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color, 
having the birds well heated throughout. Drain, wipe off, and salt; dress them on a folded 
napkin with a bunch of parsley on top. Serve at the same time but separately a figaro mayonnaise 
sauce (No. 609). 


(202.3) SQUABS IN EARTHENWARE_SAUCEPAN OR STUFFED—ROASTED (Pigeonneaux Rotis: 
& la Casserole ou Pigeonneaux Farcis Rétis au Four), 


In Earthenware Saucepan.—Procure six squabs, draw, singe and truss well with the legs. 
thrust inside, keeping them a pretty shape. Put two ounces of butter into a small earthenware. 
saucepan and when hot, add the squabs and roast them in this over a good fire or in the oven; 
when done, drain and pour off the fat, detach the glaze with a little gravy (No. 404), untruss 
the squabs, put them back in the pan, dress, strain the sauce over them and serve in the earthen 
ware pan. 

Stuffed.—Steep a piece of bread in broth and at once squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a 
saucepan and add to it as much chopped beef suet, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; stir this 
preparation with a spoon and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and onions. Break the 
breastbones of three young, drawn and clean squabs, fill the empty space with the prepared dress- 
ing and roast them quickly on the spit, basting over with melted butter. Salt over when ready to. 
take out, untruss and dress on a dish, garnishing them if so desired with a little very green 
water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar, and serve some gravy (No. 404) separately. 


POULTRY. | 629 


(2019), SQUABS, BREASTS A LA DUXELLE—STUFFED (Filets de Pigeonneaux Farcis & la Duxelle), 


Pare eight to ten breasts of squabs; split them in two through their thickness without detach- 
Ing the parts, but simply to form a pocket, fill this in with a little duxelle with raw truffles (No. 
461), close the opening, season the breasts, dip them in beaten eggs mixed with cooked fine herbs, 
(No. 385) roll in fresh bread-crumbs and then in melted butter and broil over a slow fire. Dress the 
breasts crown-shaped on a dish with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to which has been added 
butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(2020), SQUAB FRITTERS, OPORTO SAUCE (Beignets de Pigeonneaux, Sauce Oporto). 


Pluck, draw and singe some nice squabs, free them of all their feathers, cut off the stumps 
and pinions, then divide them in two lengthwise and afterward split them across on the bias to 
obtain two pieces from each, one from the legs and from the wings; lay them in a vessel and season 
with salt, whole peppers, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf, sliced onions, lemon juice and a little oil, leave 
to marinate for two hours, turning them over occasionaily, take each piece out and dip it in frying 
batter (No. 137), then plunge into very hot frying fat, drain, salt and dress them in a pyramid 
form on a folded napkin; serve separately a currant sauce (No. 455) with Port wine. 


(2021), SQUABS A LA OAROLINA (Pigeonneaux & la Caroline), 


Cut up some squabs after being dressed in six pieces each; have the same quantity of blanched 
terrapin of the same size; place them inasaucepan and moisten with half Madeira and half stock (No. 
194a); season with salt and pepper and boil up once, then finish cooking ina slack oven for about thirty 
minutes; when done thicken the sauce with hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with as much butter 
and then passed through a sieve, add a little white wine and season highly. Roll well the meat in 
the sauce to have it thick, and serve the whole inside a border made of rice boiled in salted water, 
and fresh butter added, for ten minutes or until it ceases to crackle between the teeth, then drain 
and mingle it with a little béchamel (No. 409). Mold this rice in a liberally buttered plain border 
mold (Fig. 139), push it into the oven for,a few moments, invert it on a dish, remove the mold 
and fill in the center with the stew. 


(2022), SQUABS A LA VESTAL (Pigeonneaux & la Vestale), 


Mix in with some veal godiveau (No 85) truffles, chives and parsley all well chopped; range 
this forcemeat ,in a plain well-buttered border mold (No. 139) and poach ina slack oven. Cut 
some squabs in four, fry them in butter to a nice color, drain off the grease, add allemande 
sauce (No. 407) and small mushroom heads; fill the inside of the unmolded border with this stew; 
bestrew over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; pour melted butter on it and brown the 
whole in a hot oven serving when of a fine color. 


(2023), TURKEY HEN (Dinde), 


The hen turkey is the female of the gobbler; it hatches on the ground and is very prolific. 
The meat of the hen turkey is far more delicate than that of the male, therefore it is more frequently 
selected for stuffing with truffles or chestnuts. In order to have it good it must be young and 
raised in the barn-yard. Its meat is better in winter time after leaving it hang for a certain 
period; it can be roasted or else cooked in its own gravy, both ways are excellent, but if old then 
it should be boiled. Wild turkeys abound principally in North America and feed on fruits and 
green acorns; their meat is far more delicate and succulent than that of the domestic turkey. The 


eggs are much liked either boiled or cooked in an omelet. 


(2024), TURKEY A LA OHIPOLATA—STUFFED (Dinde Farcie 4 1a Chipolata), 


Select a small turkey not too fat but quite fleshy; bone the entire front part leaving the breast- 
skin as long as possible, also the thighs; diminish the thickness of the fillets and place these pieces 
where there is no meat so as to equalize the thickness of the meat. Season the inside of 
the breasts. Cut lengthwise two veal minicn fillets and fry them in butter, season and throw over 
some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), then let get cold; m1x in with these a few fillets of veal udder, and 
of cooked ham and truffles, also an equal quantity of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Fill the 
empty space with the garnishing and forcemeat mixed; press the forcemeat into the skin of the 


630° THE: EPICGUREAN. 


turkey and let it assume its original shape; braise it for an hour and a quarter toan hour and a 
half on a very slow fire, and at the last moment glaze, drain off and untruss the turkey. Dress it 
on a rice croustade foundation (Fig. 9a) and surround with a chipolata garnishing (No. 657) — 
into which a good espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Madeira wine has been added reduced with the: 
braise stock; pour a part of this sauce over the turkey, and serve the remainder separately. 


(2025). WILD TURKEY A LA DELAGRANGE—STUFFED (Dinde Sauvage Farcie & la Delagrange), 


Singe and draw a young wild turkey, then truss for an entrée (No. 178). Prepare a dressing 
composed of bread-crumbs soaked in warm water and the liquid entirely extracted, season with salt, 
fine spices, sage, chopped onions fried in butter, and finely chopped beef marrow; add some roasted 
chestnuts, and broiled sausages free of skin, and cut into slices. When all the ingredients are: 
thoroughly mixed, fill the turkey with it and braise ina saucepan garnished with bards of pork, : 
and moistened with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when nearly done, glaze, drain, untruss,’ 
and dress on a layer of Piedmontese risot (No.'739); serve with béchamel sauce (No. 409) reduced: 
with the mirepoix’ stock, thickening with raw egg-yolks and cream; when ready to serve incor- 
porate a little chicken glaze (No. 398), and’a piece of fine butter. Pour part of this sauce over the 
turkey serving the rest in a sauce-boat. 


(2026), SMALL TURKEY A LA FINANCIERE—LARDED (Petite Dinde Piquée & la Financitre), 


The turkey represented in Fig. 385, the recipe of which is given below, is simply dressed on a rice: 
croustade foundation (Fig. 9a), cut an inch and a quarter thick. Prepare a financiére garnishing 
composed of whole truffles, mushroom heads, large cocks’-combs and four large chicken quenelles. 
molded on buttered paper and decorated with truffles; keep them warm. Select a good, small 
fleshy turkey not too fat. break the breastbone in order to draw it out, and fill up the empty space: 








with grated fat pork pounded with fresh truffle peelings; sew up the skin, truss it with the legs: 
inside and lard the fillets and thighs,with fine shreds of. larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Put the turkey 
in a small braziere lined with fragments of fat pork, roots arid ‘ininced onions; moisten to half its. 
height -with’ good “broth (No.- 194a) and‘reduce the: liquid quickly to-half, finish cooking the: 
turkey quite slowly while basting frequently; at the last moment allow it: to:brown’ nicely. in thé 
oven. Strain and skim the stock,‘reduce ‘it’ 'to a half-glaze, incorporating into it slowly some 
good espagnole (No. 414) that is in‘ the act of being reduced, ‘adding .at the. same time ia few 
spoonfuls | of good dry white wine. Untruss: the: turkey, dress it on. the ‘foundation and 
surround it with the prepared  garnishings dressed according to the illustration; | glaze the truffles. 
and pour‘ a little of the sauce over the cocks’-combs and mushrooms,’ Serve the’ prepared sauce 
at the same time as the relevé which is intendéd tobe placed on the table. 9) at 


i 
(2027). TURKEY A LA-SARTIGES—-STUDDED (Dinde Cloutée & la Sartiges), 

Singe, draw and truss a ten-pound turkey as for an entrée (No. 178), stuff the insides with a. 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385); dip the breasts in boiling: 
water to stretch the skin, drive twelve truffle nails into each fillet at equal distances apart and 
arranged symmetrically in rows of six each, then wrap the turkey in slices of fat pork fastening: 
them on with a string. Cover the bottom of a saucepan-with fat pork, lay in the turkey and 
moisten to a little above its height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), boil, skim and. cook in a. 
moderate oven. When the bird is done drain it off and dress it on a rice. foundation. Have a 


ois G0 1B Wg Ba Sec aaa 631 


garnishing of cocks’-combs truffles, quenelles, and cépes dressed in clusters around the turkey; 
strain and skim off all the fat from the stock, reduce it to a succulent sauce with some espagnole 





Fic. 386. 


(No. 414) added; pour a part of this over the -_garnishings and the remainder to be served 
separately with Spanish olives stuffed and minced mushrooms. 


- (2028). TURKEY, AMERICAN STYLE—ROASTED (Dinde Réotie & l'Américaine), 

Draw, singe and truss a turkey weighing from eight to twelve pounds, selecting a very fresh 
one. Clean the insides thoroughly, having it well washed and dried, then fill with a bread stuffing 
(No. 61); wrap it well in strong buttered paper and lay it on the spit, running the iron rod of the 
spit between the loins and the string that is used for trussing the turkey; fasten the legs firmly to 
this rod and roast before a good fire for about an hour to an hour and a half. Fifteen minutes 
before serving, unwrap the turkey, that is to remove the paper and let it assume a fine color 
while continuing to baste; it should be a golden brown and cooked to perfection. Dress ana 
pour around a little gravy (No. 404) and then garnish with very green water cress; serve with 
a sauce-boat of cranberry sauce (No. 598). 


(2029), TURKEY, FRENCH STYLE (Dinde 4 la Francaise), 


Choose a small fat turkey; draw, singe and clean it well, extracting all the pin feathers; break 
the breastbone, remove it and fill the breast. with an Engish bread dressing (No. 61); sew up the 
skin underneath and truss it for an entrée (No. 178); lay it in a braziere of the same dimensions as 
the turkey, having it lined with slices of fat pork, moisten to half its height with mirepoix stock. 


\" ie= 
mi 
"ht 





(No. 419) and let the liquid come to a boil; then cover the turkey with a thick buttered paper and 
cook for an hour and a half to two hours with the braziere well closed; simmer slowly while 
basting frequently. At the last moment drain off the turkey, untruss and dress on a rice 
foundation (Fig. 9a) surrounding it with clusters: of cauliflower, mushroom heads, braised celery, 
glazed carrots and stuffed cucumbers, or else both, all being arranged in separate groups. Cover 
the breasts with some velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with the stock already strained and skimmed, 
serving at the same time a sauce-boat of the same sauce. 


(2030). TURKEY WITH CEPES (Dinde aux Oepes), 


Pick out four dozen good unopened cépes weighing about four pounds, having them fresh, 
sound, and of equal size; cut off and peel the stalks, chop them up and cook in butter with a little 
chopped onion. Prepare a fine hash with one pound of veal, and one pound of fresh fat pork, sea- 


632 . THE EPICUREAN. 


soning it highly, add the chopped cépes and a handful of soaked and pressed out bread-crumbs. 
Crack the breastbone of a fat turkey, remove the bone and fill in the empty space with the prepared 
dressing, sew the skin underneath and truss for entrée (No. 178). Lay the bird in a buttered stew- 
pan covering the bottom with small squares of bacon; surround it with the peeled and seasoned cépes 
heads, and a bunch of parsley; season and moisten with a quart of stock (No. 194a); baste the 
turkey with butter, salt well, and place it in the oven to leave until the moistening is entirely 
reduced, then moisten again to half its height with more stock; boil, close the pan, and keep it 
cooking in the oven for three hours, pouring in a little broth at times while basting it occasionally. 
At the last moment drain off the turkey to untruss and dress on a dish surrounding it with 
the cépes and bacon. Strain the stock, skim it free of fat, then thicken and. reduce with some 
good béchamel, (No. 409) and a few spoonfuls of half-glaze (No. 400). Pour a part of this over 
the turkey and the surplus in a sauce-boat. 


(2081), TURKEY TRUFFLED AND GARNISHED WITH BLACK OLIVES (Dinde Truffée et Garnie 
d’Olives Noires). 


Have a fine fat tender turkey weighing about eight or ten pounds; truffle it three days before- 
hand with two pounds of leaf lard, three bay leaves, thyme, salt, pepper, a very little crushed and 
chopped garlic, and two chopped up shallots. Peel three pounds of truffles, chop up the parings, 
and place all together in a vessel, cutting the large truffles into pieces. Strain the melted lard over 
these and let get cold, stirring the whole well together with a gill of brandy, and season. Fill up 
the turkey with this and insert a slice of thin fat pork between the breast skin and the meat; place 
on this fat pork slices of truffle. Truss for roasting (No. 179) and wrap in buttered paper; lay it on 
a cradle spit(Fig. 116), and cook for an hour and a half to two hours, basting frequently; unwrap 
it fifteen minutes before serving; salt and let acquire a good color. Dress on a long dish, 
garnish around with black olives, and serve separately some clear gravy (No. 404) taken from the 
drippings well skimmed and strained. 


(2032) TURKEY WITH WHITE OYSTER SAUCE (Dinde & la Sauce Blanche aux Huitres), 


Truss an eight pound turkey to serve for anentrée (No. 178), put it into asaucepan, moisten to 
cover and two inches higher with stock (No. 194a) and let boil; skim, season with salt, whole 
peppers, and a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf; boil this slowly for one hour or more until 
thoroughly cooked; when done, drain, untruss, and dress it either whole on an oval rice border, or 
cut up and placed inside a rice border. Serve the turkey with a white sauce (No. 562), or the same 
sauce containing small lightly blanched and well drained oysters and raw fine herbs. A part of 
the sauce should be poured over the turkey, and the remainder.served in a sauce-boat. 


(2033), TURKEY GIBLETS A LA SALAMANDER (Abatis de Dinde & la Salamandre), 


Bone the cleaned pinions and cut them into half inch squares; divide the neck at every joint 
and put all the pieces into a saucepan with clarified butter (No. 16); fry and besprinkle with flour, 
and cook again for a few moments; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and season with salt, pepper, 
a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), and some small onions. When the meats are done add 
the liver after frying it in butter, also some minced mushrooms; suppress the parsley and onions, 
thicken the sauce with a few egg-yolks, cream and butter, then put back the onions. Buttera 
baking dish, bestrew over with bread-crumbs and fill it with the stewed giblets; dredge bread- 
raspings and grated parmesan on top, pour over butter and brown under a salamander (Fig. 123), 
then serve. 


(2034), TURKEY GIBLETS, PEASANT STYLE (Abatis de Dinde a la Paysanne). 


These are composed of the pinions, liver, neck, legs, heart, gizzard and head. Prepare a gar- 
nishing of turnips, carrots and onions; cut the turnips into clove of garlic shapes; the carrots are 
to be cut with a root spoon into three-quarter inch balls, and the small onions pared tothe same 
‘size as the carrots, the three to be blanched separately for a few moments in salted water; drain the 
turnips and brown them in the pan over a good fire with butter, salt and a pinch of sugar; drain the 
carrots, cook them again in stock (No. 194a) and let fall to a glaze as well as the onions. Take 
the giblets from two fresh turkeys, put the livers aside and clean the remaining parts; scald them sim- 
ply to stiffen, pareand wipe on a cloth. Cut in three eighths of an inch squares six ounces of bacon 


POU Ir RY, 633 


\ 


without the rind, fry colorless in butter and when melted remove the bacon, leaving the fat in the 
saucepan, then put in the giblets and fry over a good fire while stirring with a spoon; season, and after 
the meats are nicely browned, besprinkle with a heaping spoonful of flour and let cook for a few 
moments, continuing to stir. Remove the saucepan from the fire and moisten the meats with a 
little stock (No. 194a) and a little white wine; stir the sauce until it comes to a boil and cover the 
saucepan; cook the stew over a good fire for six minutes adding a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 
123) and an onion. Pare the pieces, strain the sauce and return them to the saucepan with the 
sauce poured over; let cook for one hour then put in the carrots, turnips, onions and bacon. 
Finish cooking the whole together, and a quarter of an hour before taking from the fire put in 
the turkey livers without the gall, and finally skim the fat from the sauce; strain it into a saucepan, 
let reduce, season to taste and dress the pieces of giblet in a deep dish; surround with the turnips, 

carrots, onions and bacon, pour the sauce over and serve. 


(2035). TURKEY—GRENADES—A LA JULES VERNE (Grenades de Dinde & la Jules Verne), 


Raise and pare the fillets from one or two turkeys weighing eight pounds each; shape them 
into half hearts rounded on one side and pointed on the other; remove the skin and lard the tops 
with small lardons of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), and then braise in mirepoix stock (No. 419) 
being careful to baste occasionally and to glaze toward the end so that they assume a fine color. 
Dress them on a rice socle placed in the center of a dish, pour over the strained and reduced 
stock, lay on top croustades made of thin foundation paste (No. 185), having them one inch and 
three quarters in diameter and filled with a fresh mushroom salpicon cut in quarter inch squares 
and fried in butter; then moisten with a little Madeira and let fall to a glaze; garnish around with 
half-spherical quenelles the same circumference as the croustade, having it decorated with 
truffles. Serve in a sauce-boat a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream and butter just 
at the last moment, 


(2036). TURKEY LEGS WITH NOODLES, MILANESE (Ouisses de Dinde aux Nouilles a la 
Milanaise), 


Bone the legs of a young turkey, leaving half of the drumstick bone to use for a handle; fill up 
the boned parts with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) into which mingle finely chopped truffles and mush- 
rooms; sew up to inclose well the dressing. Line asautoir with bards of fat pork and lay the stuffed 
legs on top; moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), and braise slowly, basting and glazing 
until a fine color is obtained. Dress the legs on a garnishing prepared with noodles (No. 142) 
velouté sauce (No. 415), tomatoes, parmesan cheese and strips of red beef tongue and mushrooms 
added. A half-glaze sauce (No. 418) with tomato essence accompanies this dish, but it is served 


separately. 


(2037), TURKEY—BREASTS OR FILLETS—A LA DONOVAN (Ailes ou Filets de Dinde & la 


Donovan), 


Raise the fillets or breasts from two turkeys, retaining the upper skin; fry them in butter 
and moisten with a little mirepoix stock (No. 419), then allow it to fall to a glaze; moisten 
once more and cook very slowly, barely moistened, so that when done the liquid is reduced 
to a mere glaze. Range the fillets in the center of a dish on a rice socle and garnish 
around with clusters of quenelles molded with a coffeespoon (No. 155), mushroom heads and small 
croustades filled with Montglas (No. 747). A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira sauce to 


be served separately. 


(2038), TURKEY WINGS FRICASSED AND BAKED (Fricassée d’Ailerons de Dinde au Gratin). 


Select a dozen and a half large young turkey wings; singe, bone as far as the first joint and 
remove the second joint; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with fine cooked herbs (No. 
385). and sew them up. Line a flat buttered saucepan with onions and carrots, slices of fat 
pork and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), range the wings on top larded across with 
two rows of larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52) or else leave them unlarded, and then moisten with 
stock (No. 194a), seasoning with salt and whole peppers, cover over with buttered paper and let 
boil. Push the saucepan into a slack oven and three-quarters of an hour after add six small onions 
for each wing, previousiy blanched in boiling water. When the whole is cooked take out both the 
onions and wings, strain the stock through a sieve, add to it some velouté sauce (No. 415), and 
reduce together; thicken the sauce with raw egg-yolks and fresh butter, pass it through a tammy, 


634 THE EPICUREAN. 


- 


season to taste. Put a part of this sauce into a deep china dish capable of being placed in the 
oven, lay the wings and onions on top, and pour over the remainder of the sauce; bestrew with 
bread-crumbs and parmesan and let acquire a good color while in the oven; drain and serve the 
dish on another covered with a folded napkin. 


(9039), TURKEY WINGS WITH CELERY AND OHESTNUTS (Ailerons ae Dinde au Oéleri et aux 
Marrons), 

Take twelve scalded and very white wings without any pin feathers ehateved singe and bone. 
all the fleshy first part, then soak them. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, lay on the wings. 
and moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419) placing more fat pork on top. For young turkey wings. 
it will take three-quarters of an hour, but when the birds begin to get harder the wings require: 
one hour or more cooking. Just when ready to serve, drain well and range them in a dish, strain, 
skim and reduce the stock, clarify, strain once more through a napkin. Havo some chestnuts. 
braised with celery prepared as follows: Put some skinned chestnuts into a saucepan with as much 
celery stalks cut in inch and a quarter squares, having it already well blanched; moisten with stock 
(No. 194a) and cook on a slow fire until both chestnuts and celery can crush ‘easily under a pres- 
sure. Reduce in a sautior a little espagnole sauce (No: 414) with the stock and pour it over the 
chestnuts, then finish itl als slowly, season to taste, and ee over the ieee xe sth 


(2040,) TURKEY WINGS WITH RISOT—STUFFED (Ailerons i Dinde Farcis au Risot), 


Choose two dozen large turkey wings; singe and bone as far as the second joint, leaving on. 
the tip; fill up the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with fine herbs and sew up the 
opening with thread; scald them in boiling water to stiffen the skin and refresh to pare; range 
them in a sautoir lined with fragments of salt pork, onions and roots, salt over and moisten to ~ 
half their height with stock (No. 194a); let fall to a glaze and remoisten to their height with more: 
broth and a little white wine, cover with fat pork and finish to cook very slowly. Apart from this. 
prepare a good risot with half a pound of rice and some stock (No. 194a); when done remove and. 
finish with butter, parmesan cheese and two spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549). Drain the: 
wings, untruss and cut off the tips; dress the risot in a vegetable dish and the wings on top, pour: 
some of their own stock over after skimming and reducing it well and serve remainder in a sauce- 
boat. 


(2041), TURKEY GOBBLER STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS (Dindon Farci aux Marrons), 


The gobbler turkey is a large-sized bird having a medium convex shaped beak and is specially 
known by the erectile mammilated carnucle or fleshy membrane covering its head and extending: 
over a part of the beak and neck. The turkey’s tailis provided with fourteen distinct feathers that 
can be raised in such a manner as to form a semi-wheel. Its plumageis of a fine black or green- 
ish color mingled with gray and white; they usually weigh from six to eighteen pounds. Draw, 
singe, pare, truss and remove the breastbone.from a young gobbler turkey, the same as for roast- 
ing. Chop up ten ounces of kernel of veal: and sixteen ounces of pig’s leaf lard, both to be chopped. 
separately then mixed together; season with salt and spice, adding a little shallot. and the liver both. 
well chopped. . Put this into a mortar with a gill of stock (No. 194a), pound well, remove and place 
in a sautoir to cook for fifteen minutes, let cool and stir in sixty.cooked chestnuts; stuff the: turkey’ 
with this roast, dress and pour over a little good gravy Gre: 404). 


2042), SPRING OR YOUNG TURKEY, PUREE OF ARTICHOKES—LARDED AND ROASTED 
(Dindonneau Piqué et Roti & 1a Purée. d’Artichauts), 


A spring turkey by its delicate flesh is considered one of the most desirable meats, binetially if 
stuffed with peeled Perigord truffles. The spit (Fig. 118) is the only manner worthy of cooking this 
bird; it is at its best when two or three months old. Dress two young turkeys, each one to weigh about 
six pounds; truss for roasting (No. 179) and singe them and lard the breasts with two rows of 
larding pork on each fillet and two rows on each leg (No. 8, Fig. 52). Three-quarters of an hour to 
one hour before serving roast them either on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently with butters. 
when done and of a fine color, salt them over and remove on a dish to untruss and carve, 
first detaching the two legs and fillet pieces; cut each of these in pieces, then glaze and dress. 


Serve with a separate sauce-boat of good gravy and a vegetable dish of purée of artichokes 
(No. 704). 


DAA Mia )d Wa Ba Sse 635 


(2043), SPRING TURKEY WITH TURNIPS—WINGS (Filets ou Ailes de Dindonneau aux Navets). 


Procure a spring turkey of about eight pounds; draw, singe and clean it well, suppressing all 
its pin feathers, remove the breasts with the skin and pinion bone attached; fry in butter 
some carrots, onions, lean salt pork, thyme and bay leaf, then moisten with stock (No. 194a). 
Line a fiat saucepan or sautoir with bards of fat pork, strain the above stock and pour ina third 
part of it, add the fillets, and let the liquid reduce to a glaze, then add another third part and set 
the pan in the oven to cook while basting plentifully and adding more stock as fast as 1t reduces, 
finally glazing to a beautiful color. Aside from this blanch and cook some turnips in stock and 
sugar having just sufficient moisture that when done they have fallen to a glaze; they should 
first be cut into cork-shaped pieces with square angles. After they are finished cooking, put in a 
little meat glaze (No. 402) and fresh butter; strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it with 
as much velouté sauce (No. 415), thickening just when ready with raw egg-yolks diluted in stock, 
and finishing by stirring in a piece of fresh butter. Lay the breasts in the center of a dish, with 


_ the turnips around and cover the whole with the sauce. 


(2044), SPRING TURKEY WITH WATER-CRESS—ROASTED OR BROILED (Dindonneau Roti 
ou Grillé au Cresson), 


Draw a young spring turkey, singe and truss, bard it with thin slices of fat pork and let roast 
for half to three-quarters of an hour at a moderate, but well regulated fire, basting it over fre- 
quently with butter, at the last moment salt it over, remove, untruss and lay it on an oval dish 
pouring over a little of the dripping-pan fat well skimmed and strained through a sieve. Surround 
it with water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar. : 

Broiled Spring Turkey.—Should it be a small young one, then prepare it the same as a 
chicken, the time of cooking depending upon its size; when done and of a fine color, dress on a 
hot dish and pour over some lightly melted maitre d’hoétel butter (No. 581). 


(2045), PAUPIETTES OF YOUNG TURKEY, SOUVENIR (Paupiettes de Dindonneau au Souvenir). 


Remove the nerves from the minion fillets, beat them lightly and cut into oblongs, season and 
spread over the surface a layer of well seasoned quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into which has been 
mixed some chopped truffles, roll them cork-shaped and place in 
buttered tin paupiette rings ranged on a buttered baking sheet 
having the bottoms of the rings covered with crotitons of bread fried 
on one side only and of the same dimensions as the rings, the unfried 
side resting on the buttered sheet; on top of each place a channeled 
mushroom head (No. 118) and cover this with a bard of fat pork, 3 
then cook in a slack oven. Have braised as many turkey legs as Fra. 388. 
there are paupiettes and when done to perfection, drain and cut them 
into small pieces; enclose each one of these in some quenelle forcemeat with cooked fine herbs: 
(No. 385); bread-crumb, dip in eggs and fry to a fine color, then glaze. Dress the paupiettes in a 
circle, fill the center with the fried legs and serve with a separate cream soubise sauce (No. 543). 








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(2046), BEAR STEAKS BROILED (Tranches d’Ours Grillées), 


Bear’s meat when young can be broiled and after it is cooked, has much the same flavor as 
beef. Cut some slices from off the thigh, season with salt and coat over with oil, then broil; when 
done dress on a sharp sauce (No. 538) with grated horseradish added. 


(2047), BLACKBIRDS A LA DEGRANGE (Merles & la Degrange) 


Procure eight blackbirds, draw and singe, suppress the feet and necks. Fry in butter some 
carrots, onions, ham and fat pork cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, also parsley, thyme, bay leaf 
and six chicken livers; when well cooked, lay aside to cool, then pound into a pulp with a little 
bread-crumb and seasoning; press this through a sieve and use this forcemeat for filling the black- 
birds; fry them in butter, drain it off and replace it by a little glaze (No. 402), lemon juice, chopped 
truffles, parsley and a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress the birds inside a rice border finished 
with butter and parmesan cheese, and pour the sauce over the birds. 


(2048), BOAR (WILD PIG) TENDERLOINS ROASTED, HAUNOCH, ROBERT SAUCE, CUTLETS 
SAUTED (Sanglier (Cochon Sauvage) Ouissot Sauce Robert, Filets Rotis Odtelettes Sautées), 


Only young ones can be used. They can be roasted without marinating, and as the meats are 
covered with fat it is useless to lard them. Roasted pieces are served from the haunch, saddle, 
tenderloin or loin, basted with its own gravy or else a very highly seasoned sauce. 


Hor the Hawnch.—After the boar is singed and well trimmed, scald it in boiling water, then 
saw off the end or handle bone an inch anda half from the knuckle bone and marinate in a cooked 
cold marinade (No. 114) or eight days; drain, wipe and wrap it in strong sheets of buttered paper, 
including the vegetables and marinade; lay it on a cradle spit (No. 116) or in the oven to roast for 
one hour and a half, more or less according to the size of the haunch or leg, being careful to 
baste every twenty minutes with the grease from the dripping pan. Ten minutes before serving 
unwrap and remove the buttered paper, also the cracknel; glaze the haunch in the oven and place 
it on a dish to trim with a fancy frill (No. 10), pour gravy (No. 404) around and serve a 
Robert sauce (No. 533) in a sauce-boat. 

Boar’s Tenderloins are prepared by paring, larding, marinating and roasting, then dressing on 
crotitons and serving with shallot and fine herb sauce (No. 537). 

The Cutlets are pared and sautéd drained and trimmed with frills (No. 10), afterward dressed 
in a circle; drain the fat from the pan, detach the glaze with white wine and espagnole sauce (No. 
414), reduce; then strain it through a tammy and pour it in the middle of the cutlets, 


(2049), YOUNG WILD BOAR—QUARTER—GARNISHED WITH OUTLETS AND BREASTS. 
MARINADE SAUCE (Quartier de Marcassin Garni de Cotelettes et de Poitrines, Sauce- 


Marinade), 

Have a quarter of young wild boar very tender; suppress the rind and marinate in a cooked 
cold marinade (No. 114) for twenty-four hours; drain and wrap in several sheets of strong buttered 
paper. Put it in a roasting pan'and cook it in the oven. Have the breasts braised, and when 
done bone and lay them under a light weight to get cold, then cut them into eight pieces paring 
each one to the shape of a half heart, then dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry till hot and of a 
fine golden color. Trim eight cutlets, marinate them for twenty-four hours, drain, wipe and sauté 
with clarified butter. Dress the breasts on one side of the quarter and the cutlets on the other, 
glaze them with meat glaze (No. 402) and cover the quarter with a little marinade sauce (No. 496), 


serve more of it separately with the boar, trimming the handle of the leg with a paper frill (No. 10). 
(637) 


633 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2050), BOAR SADDLE AND QUARTER—ROASTED (Gelles et Quartiers de Sangiier Rotis). 


Before roasting a saddle or quarter of boar is better to be sure that the animal is a very 
young one. The saddle tenderloin must not be pared as for venison, neither are the quarters 
pared; simply steep the pieces of meat for twenty-four hours in a cooked and cold marinade 
(No. 114). They are to be roasted in a very deep pan lined-with fragments of salt pork and cut up . 
roots, then basted over with butter. For a young boar it will take from an hour and a quarter 
to an hour and a half in a moderate oven. After removing it from the fire, dress it on a dish 
and unglaze the bottom of the pan with a few spoonfuls of the marinade; reduce the liquid for a 
few moments, then strain, skim off the fat and thicken the sauce either with some sauce or 
kneaded butter (No. 579); serve it in a sauce-boat. With roast boar a light acidulated sauce is 
usually served, prepared with a little of its marinade; a saucerful of currant jelly is also its usual 
accompaniment. 


(2051), DOE BIRDS ROASTED AND BROILED (Courlis Rotis et Grillés), 


Small doe birds are the size of a large plover, having a long bent beak. It is a delicate game 
being slightly analagous to the plover; let set till tender then pick, singe and suppress the gizzard 
and crop without emptying out the insides. Truss them bent under like the plovers (No. 2119) 
bard over with very thin slices of fat pork and cook either on the spit or in the oven, or else broil; 
serve on canapés with clear gravy (No. 404) separate. Doe birds can be prepared in several ways, 
proceeding exactly the same as for the plovers. 


(2052) BLAOKHEAD DUCKS ROASTED OR BROILED (Canards Sauvages 4 Téte Noire Rotis ou 

| Grillés), | 

Pick the feathers from two blackhead ducks, and truss as described (No. 179); “asten them 

on the spit then cook the ducks, if fine and large for fourteen or eighteen minutes befure a bright 

fire. Untruss and serve them to the guests after cutting them up on very hot plates; serve currant 
jelly at the same time. For broiled blackheads see broiled canvasback ducks (No. 2054). 


(2053). BRANT DUCKS WITH CAULIFLOWER VILLEROI—ROASTED (Canards Sauvages Brant 
Rotis aux Chouxfleurs Villeroi), 
Brant ducks are prepared the same as blackhead ducks and when roasted, dress them on a 


Jong dish: garnish around with caulifiowers a la Villeroi (No. 2716), serving a separate poivrade 
‘sauce (No. 522) into which incorporate half as much fresh butter. 


(2054), CANVASBACK DUCKS BROILED (Canards Sauvages Canvasback Grillés), 


Clean nicely and split through the whole length of the back, open entirely to have them per- 
fectly flat, wipe, trim and season with salt and pepper; coat ovér with oil and put them inside a 
‘double boiler sufficiently thick not to have them squeezed too tight; broil over a brisk fire for eight 
‘or ten minutes and as soon as done, dress on a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which 
has been added butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(2055), CANVASBACK DUCKS ROASTED GARNISHED WITH HOMINY OR SAMP (Canards 
Sauvages Canvas Back Rotis Garnis Avec Hominy ou Samp). 


Pick the feathers from some nice Havre-de-Grace canvasback ducks, each one to weigh three 
pounds, prepare them for roasting as described (No. 179), lay them on a spit to roast before a 





Fia. 389. 


brisk fire for sixteen to twenty minutes, more or less according to their size; untruss and dress on 
to a very hot dish, surround with squares of hominy dipped in eggs and bread-crumbs, then 


fried, present them whole to the guests, remove to carve and place on very hot plates with a.piece 
of hominy for each person: °° ‘ , ; 


PCeA MT Yer. ary r* 639 





























Fig. 390. 


Woodcock—(Bécasse), 








Fie. 392. Fig. 393. 


Plover—(Pluvier), English Snipe—(Bécassine Anglaise), 





Fia. 394 Fie. 395. 


Prairie Hen (Grouse) —(Tétras), 3 Ptarmigan—(Poule de Neige), 


840 THE EPICUREAN. 


Hominy and Samp (Crushed Corn).—Cook some hominy in boiling salted water, spread it on 
a baking sheet ina five-eighths of an inch thick layer and when cold cut it into oblongs one 
inch wide by two and a half inches long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine 
color, then drain, salt and dress on folded napkins. Samp is a species of Indian corn crushed to. 
the size of small peas; it should be soaked in cold water for several hours, then cooked in a covered 
saucepan with water, salt and butter for three hours, placed in a slack oven after it has boiled up. 
once. Put it to cool on a dish, divide it into inch and three-quarters balls, flatten, keeping them 
thin on the edges aud thick in the center, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry nicely to a fine color 


(2056), SALMIS OF CANVASBAOK DUCKS (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Canvasback), 


Cook either on the spit or in the oven two ducks prepared for roasting (No. 179); when nearly 
done, untruss and divide each one into six pieces, cutting the breast in four and legs in two. (The 
legs are generally fibrous and tough.) Put all the pieces inasaucepan with their own blood and keep 
them warm in a bain-marie, having a lid on top. Put the fragments of the ducks, broken in pieces 
into another saucepan with a pint of red Bordeaux wine, half a shallot and a pinch of mignonette, 
let boil slowly until the liquid is reduced to half, then pass it through a colander into a sautéing dish, 
adding the same quantity of thick espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce the whole until consistent, 
pass it once more through a tammy and finish by incorporating therein a tablespoonful of sweet 
oil and the strained juice of half a lemon. Pour this sauce over the cut up ducks and dress on 
the center of a dish, garnish around with half heart croaitons hollowed out in the center and filled 
with minced celery parboiled and cooked in consommé (No. 189), cover with half-glaze and Madeira 
sauce (No. 413). 


(2057). OANVASBACK DUCKS, BIGARADE SAUCE—BREASTS (Filets de Canard Sauvages, Can- 
vasback, Sauce Bigarade), 


Prepare and cook the canvasback ducks the same as roasted (No. 2055); when still very rare, 
remove and raise the two fillets and divide each one into three pieces. Put them in a chafing 
dish with a little melted game glaze (No. 398), as much butter and the juice of half a lemon, 
roll them well in this to glaze and dress on a bigarade sauce (No. 435). 


(2058), CANVASBACK DUCKS WITH ORANGE JUICE, PORT WINE AND CURRANT SAUCE 
—BREASTS (Filets de Canards Sauvages, Canvasback, au Jus d’Orange & la Sauce Porto 
et a la Gelée de Groseilles), 


Roast the ducks the same as for roasting (No. 2055) keeping them very rare; raise the two 
fillets, one from each side of the breast and cut each one into two lengthwise pieces; put them in a 
chafing dish, pour over some bitter orange juice, also a little game glaze (No. 398) and brown 
poivrade sauce (No, 522); serve separately a sauce made with currant jelly dissolved in port wine, 
heating it in a bain-marie, then strained through a fine wire sieve, surround with half-heart- 
shaped crodtons of bread fried in butter. 


(2059). MALLARD DUCKS ROASTED AND BROILED—(anards Sauvages, Mallard Rotis et Grillés). 


Draw two singed and clean Mallard ducks, wipe out the insides with a cloth and fill the empty 
Space with some bread dressing combined with butter or chopped suet, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, 
and a few finely sliced green celery leaves, adding egg-yolks; truss (No. 179), and run a skewer 
through to fasten them on the spit, then roast basting over with melted butter or oil. The fire 
should be quite brisk, and if so, twenty minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Dish them up. 
with sliced lemons around, and serve the gravy separately. 


Brotled.—Mallard ducks are broiled and dressed the same as canvasback, the only difference 
to be ebserved is perhaps a modification in the time of cooking. 


(2060). MALLARD DUCKS WITH CELERY HALF-GLAZE—ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Mallard 
Rotis au Oéleri Demi-Glace), 


Truss some mallard ducks for roasting (No. 179), and when cooked dish up as the others. They 
may be served either whole or else cut up into six pieces or the fillets only if they be whole; place 
the garnishing around; should they be dressed in a cirele then fill in the center with a garnishing 
composed of cardoons or celery cut in half inch squares, blanched and cooked with chopped beef 
marrow also blanched, and afterward drained; put them into a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), 
and let simmer for a few moments. 





GAME. : 641. 


(2061), SALMIS OF MALLARD DUCKS WITH MADFIRA (almis de Canards Sauvages, Mallard: 
au Madére), 


Cut two roasted wild ducks into six pieces; remove the skin and part of the bones, then divide: 
the breasts and legs, suppressing the feet, and range them in a sautoir keeping it covered. 
Chop up the carcass, bones, and parings; fry a mirepoix (No. 419), and minced shallots with: 
aromatic herbs, add to this the chopped carcasses and moisten with two or three gills of red wine- 
previously boiled in a copper pan, and reduce it to three-quarters; again moisten to their height: 
with stock (No. 194a) and continue to cook for twenty minutes; strain this through a tammy, 
remove the fat and return it to the fire and reduce, thickening with half-glaze sauce (No. 413),. 
and finishing with two spoonfuls of Madeira wine. As soon as it is completed, strain it over the: 
pieces of duck, and heat in a bain-marie for a quarter of an hour. Dress the pieces on a dish,. 
cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder separately; surround with thin round: 
crusts masked on one side with baked liver forcemeat (No. 81), and serve. 


Q 2 

(2062). REDHEAD DUCKS A LA BAREDA (Canards Sauvages & Téte Rouge 4 la Baréda), 
These ducks are first to be prepared the same as for roasting; put them in a pan, cover with 
good fat and roast them in the oven; add one gill of vinegar, a spoonful of powdered sugar, 
and mignonette pepper; baste the birds several times while cooking and salt over a few moments. 
































Fic. 396. 


before removing from the oven. Untruss and strain the stock, suppress all the fat, and place- 
it in a sauce-pan with some espagnole sauce (No. 414) currant jelly, mixing the whole well together, . 
pass through a sieve. Make a sour apple marmalade, drain properly and press it through a very~ 
fine sieve, stir in some unsweetened whipped cream; serve these two sauces separately at the» 
same time as the birds. 


(2063). REDHEAD DUCKS, ROASTED AND BROILED (Canards Sauvages 4 Téte Rouge Rétis ow. 
Grillés), 


Prepare the ducks as for No. 2059, lay them on the spit’ to roast for fourteen to eighteen: 
minutes, more or less according to their weight; salt over, remove from the spit and untruss and 
serve on a very hot dish, or they can be roasted in the oven, putting them into a baking pan; pour 
a little fat over and set them in a hot oven; they will take a few: minutes longer to cook this way, 
then serve on a very hot dish. Hand round separately on a folded napkin some hominy or samp- 
the same as for canvasback ducks (No. 2055). Cut up the ducks and serve on very hot plates. 
Four slices can be taken from each duck, two on each fillet and one or two of these served to one- 
guest. 

Brotled.—Have them prepared the same as the canvasback duck (No. 2054), then cook and 
dress exactly the same. 


(2064), REDHEAD DUCKS WITH FRIED OBLERY( Canards Sauvages & Téte Rouge au Oéleri Frit 


Prepare and cook two redhead ducks the same as for roasting (No. 2063); dress and garnish 
«round with celery prepared in two different ways. From four celery stalks, remove the outer 
branches, using only the white and tender ones; cut into four inch lengths half of the largest 
branches and blanch them as well as the four roots, peeled and cut in eight pieces then nicely 
pared; drain and put into a salicepan and cover to their height with a light ten degree syrup; cook. 


642 THE EPICUREAN. 


on a slow fire, drain through a strainer and dip each separate piece into frying batter (No. 137) 
and fry to a fine golden color, ranging: them afterward on each side of the ducks. Cut the 
remainder or tender stalks lengthwise into fillets the size of a straw, dip. them in frying batter, 
then fry slowly to a fine color; drain, salt over and use them for decorating the ends of the dish. 
Serve separately a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with white wine pressing info it the strained 
juice of an orange. 


(2065), RUDDY DUCKS A LA HAMILTON (Ganards Sauvages, Ruddy a la Hamilton), 


Prepare and cook the ducks the same as for roasted (No. 2066); detach the fillets without 
taking off the skin and range them at once in a sautoir, pour over some reduced espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) and a little good sherry; roll themin this off the fire and strain the juice of a lemon over. 
Dress the fillets in a circle on a poached and unmolded foreemeat border placed on a dish, and fill 
the insides with a garnishing of truffles, mushrooms, olives and cut up foies-gras; cover 
both fillets and garnishing lightly with the sauce and serve more of it separately after strain- 
ing it. 

(2066). RUDDY DUCKS, ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Ruddy Rotis), 

This duck is roasted either on the spit or in the oven. Pick and take off all the down; singe, 
‘wipe and draw, then cut off the wings near the body, suppress the necks, turn in the feet and 
truss, the same as canvasback (No. 179). Putthem to roast on the spit or in the oven for twelve to 
fifteen minutes according to the heat of the fire and the size of the duck, keeping them rare; take 
them off and serve with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over and garnish with quartered 
lemons; serve. 


(2067). TEAL DUCKS, BROILED (Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles Grillées), 


Split the teal duck, lengthwise in two through the back after cleaning well; pare and season 
with salt and mignonette; coat over with oil and place ina double broiler without pressing too tight. 
Broil over a brisk fire and serve on a good, rich gravy (No. 404) surrounded by slices of lemon. 


(2068), TEAL DUCKS, ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles Rotis), 


This isa small kind of wild duck, the meat being quite nutritious and of an excellent flavor the 
blue wings are preferred to the green. Prepare the teal (No. 179), roast before a brisk fire for ten 


~ ii a 





Fiag. 397. 


to fifteen, minutes either on the spit or allow the same time in the oven. When done to perfection 
salt over, untruss and serve on a hot dish either whole or carved, each one to be divided in four 
pieces. Dress the legs on the bottom of the dish with the breasts over, glaze, then pour into the 
Nie aes little good gravy (No. 404); surround the birds with slices of lemon cut in two through 
the center. 


(2069), TEAL DUCKS A LA PONTCHARTRAIN, BREASTS (Filets de Canards Sauvages, 
Sarcelles & la Pontchartrain), 
Lift the breasts from four very plump raw teal ducks; keep on the skin and score this lightly; 
marinate these in oil with cut up chives, parsley leaves, salt, mignonette and lemon juice; let them 
remain in this for two hours and just when ready to serve, pour ttvo tablespoonfuls of oil in a sau- 


MG ANLE 643 


toir, heat it up and put in the breasts; place it on a good fire, turning the pieces over when done 
on one side; drain and dress in a circle with half heart-shaped croutons between each piece, having 
them the same size as the breasts; cover the whole with a well-reduced buttered espagnole sauce, 
(No. 414) straining into it the juice ofan orange. They can also be broiled, after scoring, 
seasoning and coating over with oil, then put into a double broiler without pressing and when 
cooked dress in a circle with crotttons between each fillet and the same sauce as above poured over 
the whole. 


(2070). SALMIS OF TEAL DUCKS ALA HARRISON Galmis de Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles & la 


Harrison), 


Roast some teal ducks as for No. 2068. Fry a shallot lightly in butter without acquiring color; 
add some raw chopped mushrooms, sait, pepper and nutmeg, then moisten with champagne and 
reduce with the following fumet and espagnole sauce (No. 414) to a proper consistency. Break 
up the carcasses of the birds, moisten these with broth (No. 194a) and cook for fifteen minutes, then 
strain forcibly; add to it some cooked ham cut in one-eighth of an inch squares and chopped 
parsley. The ducks must be cut in four pieces each, namely: two legs, two wings, each of these to 
be cut lengthwise; dress, mix the gravy and sauce together, pour it over and surround with heart- 
shaped crofitons, then serve. 


(2071), GROUSE, PRAIRIE HENS OR PTARMIGAN, BROILED (Tétras, Poules de Prairie ou de 
Neige Grillés). 

There are two ways of preparing these birds for broiling; the first, or the one most generally 
employed is to cut off the feet at the first joint, also the neck, leaving the throat skin on as long as 
possible; split the grouse lengthwise through the back to open it entirely; remove the breastbones, 
datten lightly and season with salt; dip them in oil and broil over a moderate fire, then dress on 
toast with clear gravy (No. 404). 


Another Way is after the grouse is picked, drawn and singed, truss with the legs thrust 
inside, and cut them iengthwise in two, beat lightly, pare neatly, season and dip in melted butter, 
then in bread-crumbs and broil in a double broiler on a moderate fire, turning them when 
well done on one side; dressed grouse can be cooked in either of these ways, being careful not to 
have the broiler too tight, and when dressed they may be covered with maitre d’hotel butter (No. 
581) or else have a cold tartar sauce (No. 631) served separately. 


(2072), GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HENS ROASTED WITH GRAVY, FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS OR 
APPLE SAUCE (Tétras ou Poules de Prairie Rotis au Jus, Mie de Pain Frite ou Sauce aux Pommes), 


Select some grouse and after picking, singeing and drawing, truss them without barding for 
roasting (No. 179), run a skewer through and fasten this firmly to the spit, then roast before a good 
fire or they may be put in a baking pan, smeared over with fat and roasted in the oven, but in either 
case they need basting frequently with melted butter. When almost done, salt them over and as 
soon as they are finished (which will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes), like all black meats 
these should be cooked rare, untruss and dress on a crofiton of bread cut so that they stand plumb 
on it, and serve some clear gravy (No. 404) separately or replace it by apple sauce (No. 428), served 
she same, or a bread sauce (No. 438), may be substituted or surround with fried bread-crumbs 
prepared as follows: Brown some slices of bread in the oven and when of a good color and very 
dry, pound and pass through a fine wire sieve, mix these crumbs with a little butter, put it into 
a sautoir and set in the oven to fry until of a nice color. 


(2073), GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HENS A LA TZARINA—BREASTS (Filets de Tétras ou de Geli- 


nottesa la Tzarine), 


Remove the breasts from six fresh grouse or prairie hens, suppress the minion fillets and pare 
the larger ones prettily the same as chicken fillets, taking off all the skin; beat down to flatten and 


season with salt, lay them in a sautoir with cold clarified butter and cover with a buttered 
paper. With the minion fillets, and the breast parings, prepare game cream forcemeat 
(No. 75), have it nice and smooth and keep it cold. Butter a plain border mold (Fig. 
139), decorate the sides with fanciful bits of truffle and lay it aside on ice. Prepare a 


garnishing composed only of fine and very white cocks’-combs, not having them too much 
cooked and place them in a bain-marie. With the carcasses of the breasts without 


644 THE EPICUREAN. 


the legs prepare a good fumet, and strain it. Put on to reduce a few gills of good béchamel (Noe 
409) with a small bunch of green fennel, mushroom peelings and a spoonful of prepared red’ 
pepper (No. 168) and incorporate the fumet slowly into this; when this sauce becomes rich, but 
not too thick, strain and keep it in a bain-marie stirring it up occasionally. Fill the decorated. 
mold with the cream forcemeat pressing it in carefully, cover it over with a buttered paper and 
poach it for fifteen to twenty minutes in a bain-marie. At the last moment poach the fillets. 
































over a brisk fire, turning them around and keeping them rare; two minutes will suffice for their 
cooking drain them off at once to pare and pour into this same sautoir one gill and a half of good 
game stock (No. 195), reduce the liquid to half with the butter and incorporate this slowly into the- 
sauce. On the rounded end of each of the fillets lay an oval piece of cooked truffle covered with 
a thin layer of raw forcemeat to help fasten it on. Unmold the border on a dish, fill the interior 
with the well-drained combs and dress the fillets in a circle on the border. Cover them as well. 
as the combs with a part of the sauce and serve the rest apart. 


(2074), HARE A LA CHATELAINE—STUFFED (Liavre Farci & la Chatelaine’, 


Skin and draw a good hare, not having it too young, lard it with shreds of larding pork (No.. 
3, Fig. 52), make a hash with its minion fillets, the heart, liver and a few good cooked chicken: 
livers, put this into a vessel and mix in an equal quantity of chopped fat pork, bread-crumb rasp- 
ings, chopped onions, one egg, salt and thyme. With this dressing fill the hare’s stomach, sew up. 
the opening, truss the shoulders, head and legs, then put it into a long braziere, having the bottom 
covered with fragments of fat pork, minced onions and roots, aromatic herbs and mushroom peelings, 
add two or three gills of white wine and cover with buttered paper; cover the pan and allow the hare- 
to cook very slowly for two or three hours with fire over, and under.or in the oven, adding a little broth. 
or gravy from time to time. When the hare is three-quarters done, lift it out, strain the stock, 
skim it free of fat and thicken with a little brown sauce (No. 414), then boil again for five minutes. 
Pour this into the braziere, replace the hare and add two or three dozen fresh peeled mushrooms, 
then finish cooking all together. Dish up the hare, untruss and surround it with the garnishing- 
and a part of the sauce, serving the remainder separately. 


(2075). JUGGED HARE (Civet de Liévre), 


To prepare this dish the hare should not be too tender; those are only desirable when eaten: 
roasted. Skin the hare, draw it well reserving the blood in a small bowl with a dash of vinegar 
added. Separate the four limbs from the back, cut them up into medium-sized pieces and split the: 
head in two, then cut the back across. Lay these parts in a vessel to season and marinate with a. 
few spoonfuls of brandy, aromatic herbs and sprigs of parsley; leave them in this for five to six. 
hours. Melt in a saucepan half a pound of chopped fat pork, add to it half a pound of bacon cut 
in flat squares, and as soon as these are browned, remove them with a skimmer, leaving the fat in 
the saucepan, and to it add the well drained pieces of hare. Fry over a very brisk fire stirring at 
times, and when the meats are well browned, besprinkle with two spoonfuls of flour; cook this. 
while turning for a few minutes, then moisten the stew to its height, with a third part of good red 
wine previously boiled in an untinned copper vessel, and two-thirds of broth (No.194a), adding both 
very slowly. Stir the liquid until it boils and let it continue thus for ten minutes; withdraw the sauce- 
pan to a slower fire, put in a bunch of aromatic herbs, two or three small onions and mushroom 
parings. Continue the cooking until the meats are partly done, then set a large colander on top of a 
vessel and pour into it the stew; return the sauce to a sautoir, adding to it a few spoonfuls of red 
wine, boil the same as before, add a few spoonfuls of grayy (No. 404) to enrich it, reduce for a few mo- 





GAME. 645 


ments, skimming off the fat and put it back into the first saucepan, Take up the pieces of hare one by 
‘one, pare them free of all superfluous bone and return them to the sauce, all except the head, and 
add the bacon and the marinade the hare was in. Place the saucepan on the fire to finish cook- 
ing the meats very slowly; twenty minutes before taking off the stew, mix in with it two dozen 
mushrooms and finish cooking all together. At the last moment thicken the gravy with the blood 
laid aside, being careful that once this is added not to let it boil again. Dress the meats and bacon 


on a dish, strain the sauce over and surround with clusters of mushrooms and the same of small 
onions glazed separately. 


(2076). HARES BAOK ROASTED WITH CREAM (Rable de Lidvre Roti & la Créme), 


The hares used for roasting should be chosen particularly tender. Suppress the shoulders, legs, 
sand neck, leaving the back whole; remove the fillet skin delicately so as to be able tolard the meats 
with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52); season and lay the back in a small baking pan to mask over with 





Fia. 399. 


‘butter and roast in the oven for twenty-five to thirty minutes while basting at times. Drain off the 
‘back and dress it on a dish, pour off half the fat and put into the pan a few spoonfuls of half-glaze 
(No. 400); boil up for five minutes to detach the glaze from the bottom of the pan, then strain and 
let reduce for a few moments, adding a gill of raw cream; finish the sauce with a dash of vinegar. 


(2077), YOUNG HARE A LA CASTIGLIONE—SAUTED (Levraut Sauté & la Castiglione), 


Cut a young hare into twelve parts; two shoulder pieces, four from the legs and six from the 
back and ribs, put these ina sautéing pan and fry ona good fire with plenty of fresh butter; throw 
‘over some chopped parsley and mushrooms, two blanched and very finely chopped shallots, a little 
‘cooked ham either cut very small or in eighth of an inch squares, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; moisten 
with a pint of broth (No. 194a) adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, a little 
garlic, and a clove; cook on a slow fire, then finish in a slack oven in a hermetically closed sauce- 
pan, allowing it to be in for twenty to thirty minutes; remoisten as fast as the liquid becomes 
reduced, adding only a very little at the time so that when done there remains very little of the 
stock, and that has fallen to a glaze without adhering to the pan. After the hare is done, pour 
in two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and half a gill of Madeira at the same time, suppressing 
the parsley, and finish with the juice of alemon. Garnish around with heart-shaped crofitons 
fried in butter. 


(2078). EPIGRAMMES OF YOUNG HARES A LA POLIGNAC (Epigrammes de Levrauts & la 
Polignac), 
Raise the fillets and minion fillets from two young hares; suppress the skin and nerves and cut 


the fillets slanting into two pieces each; beat lightly and pare them all into cutlet form; season 
with salt, pepper, fine spices and truffles cut in thin shreds. Mince the fragments of the meat, 


646 TEE (Preiss Ne 


add a third as much pork tenderloin and chop the two well together with as much chopped fat pork as. 
fresh pork; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding some reduced espagnole sauce (No, 414). 
Divide this preparation into twelve parts, have as many squares of ‘‘erépine” or caul fat four 
inches by five spread out on a cloth, on each one lay half of its intended forcemeat, on top the 
pared cutlet-form fillet and then the remainder of the foreemeat; fold the ‘‘crépine” or caul fat 
into an oval shape, lay them on a baking sheet, baste over with butter, bestrew with bread-crumbs. 
and cook in the oven. Dish them up in a circle intercalated with cutlets made of very delicate 
hare quenele forcemeat (No. 91) made with the parings, dip in eggs, bread-crumb over and then 
fry in olive oil. Pour into the center of the circle a little marinade sauce (No. 496) with chopped 
truffles added. The quenelle forcemeat cutlets can be replaced by others made of hare croquette 
preparation (No. 885). 


(2079). YOUNG HARES’ FILLETS WITH CURRANT JELLY AND RAISIN SAUCE (Filets de 
Levrauts & la Sauce de Gelée de Groseilles et aux Raisins), 


Pare and suppress the nerves from the fillets and minion fillets of two young hares; cut the 
larger ones on the bias to obtain two or three stices, flatten, pare into half hearts, season and put 
them in a buttered sautoir sprinkle over with butter. With the bones and fragments make a. 
fumet (No. 397) and moisten it with skimmed broth (No. 194a), and when ready pass this through 
a sieve and pour it into a saucepan with a gilli of vinegar, then reduce the liquid to a half-glaze, 
stir in some currant jelly, a piece of lemon peel and a handful of well-washed dry raisins softened. 
in hot water. Push the fillets into a brisk oven and as soon as cooked add them to the sauce; 
dress, pass the sauce through a tammy and pour part of it over the meats, serving the rest in a, 
sauce-boat. 


(2080). YOUNG HARES’ PAUPIETTES WITH STUFFED OLIVES (Paupiettes de Levrauts aux 
Olives Parcies), 


Take the fillets and minion fillets from two young hares, suppress the nerves and separate: 
them lengthwise in two; flatten all the pieces and then cut them up into twelve bands or strips an 
inch and a half wide by two and a half long; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pass twice 
through the chopping machine (Fig. 47) a pound of the lean meats, cut from the legs and shoulders. 
of the hare with as much fresh fat pork; when the whole is very fine add to it some cooked fine 
herbs (No. 385), two ounces of bread-crumbs, one egg, salt and pepper. Spread a layer of this hash 
on each strip, roll them over on themselves and place in buttered paupiette rings. Make a fumet (No, 
397) with the carcasses and fragments moistening it with white wine; reduce some espagnole sauce. 
(No. 414) with this fumet, despumate it free of ail fat and scum that arises to the surface. Cook - 
the paupiettes in a sautoir lined with bards of fat pork, and moisten with white wine mirepoix 
stock (No. 419); when done, drain off and strain the stock, reduce it with the espagnole and fumet. 
Stuff some Spanish olives with anchovies, heat them in a little gravy (No. 404); dress the: 
pauplettes in a circle, fill the center with the stuffed olives and place a channeled mushroom (No. 
118) on each paupiette; cover with a part of the sauce, serving the rest in a sauce-boat. 


(2081), LARKS A LA MAREOHALE (Mauviettes & la Maréchale). 


Bone and stuff about fifteen larks with a baking forcemeat (No. 81) mixed with a little raw 
forcemeat (No. 91) and chopped truffles. Form these into ball-shapes and wrap each one in a. 
small piece of cloth; tie them up tight and cook in a very little clear stock (No. 194a); drain. 
off to tighten the cloth. When cold, unwrap the birds and pare; lay each one inside of a large © 
head of cépes or fresh mushrooms previously scooped out with a vegetable spoon. Lay these in a. 
sautoir, pour over some hot butter and cook for ten minutes on a bright fire while covered, then 
baste with a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), cook again for seven or eight minutes 
on a slow fire, remove them with a pallet and dress on a dish; add two spoonfuls of Madeira 
wine to their broth and thicken it with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce for two 
minutes and then pour into the dish. 


(2082). LARKS BROILED (Alouettes Grillées), 


Take the larks well cleaned and picked, split them lengthways through the back, season and 
broil; three to five minutes suffice to cook them. Dress on canapés made of toasted oblongs of 
bread-crumbs, cover with game fumet (No. 397) made with quail and espagnole sauce (No. 414) 
that has been liberally buttered, then serve. 


GAME. 647° 


(2083), LARKS, PERIGUEUX SAUCE—ROASTED (Alouettes Roties Sauce Périgueux), 


Roast without drawing, only removing the gizzard, singe and cover with very thin bards of’ 
fat pork and run a metal skewer through four of them, keeping them slightly apart so that the: 
heat can penetrate between each one. They only require to be cooked from five to six minutes, 
ten dress them on croaitons of bread covered with liver forcemeat; remove the larding and pour: 
over a Périgueux sauce with Madeira (No. 517). 


(2084), LARKS WITH RICE (Mauviettes au Riz), 


Singe, draw and bone about fifteen fine larks; spread them out on the table to season and lay in: 
each one a ball of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) mixed with baking forcemeat (No.81) and a part of 
their own intestines, cooked, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; form the birds into ball-shapes- 
and sew them up, then lay them in a saucepan with butter or melted fat pork; season and fry 
quickly for seven or eight minutes while turning them over; now remove them from the pan, leay- 


ing in the fat, and into this add two spoonfuls of chopped onions; fry and mix with it three or four’ 


spoonfuls of chopped raw ham; fry together for two minutes longer, then put in three gills of good 

picked rice without previously washing it; heat well while stirring and moisten with a quart of 
good unskimmed broth (No. 194a). After this has boiled for fifteen minutes, or when the rice be- 

gins tosoften add the untrussed larks, a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168), a garnished bunch 

of parsley (No. 123) and two spoonfuls of tomato purée (No. 730); cook both rice and larks, 
moderately and finish by incorporating into it a generous piece of butter divided into small pats. 

Dress in a deep dish and pour over two spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and tomato sauce: 
(No. 549). 


(2085). PARTRIDGES, BROILED ENGLISH STYLE (Perdreaux Grillés 4 |’Anglaise), 


Cut two tender partridges in two after they have been drawn and singed; cut off the legs to 
the height of the knee to slip them under the skin; beat lightly, suppress the surplus of bone, 
season and bread-crumb them English style, rolling them in oil or melted butter, then in fresh 
bread-crumbs. Range these half partridges on a broiler, and broil for eighteen minutes over a 
moderate fire, turning them from one side to the other; serve with a sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce 
(No. 413) and sliced lemon around. 


(2086), PARTRIDGES, GIRALDA—BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Perdreaux a la 
Giralda), 


Raise the breasts from four partridges; remove the skin and sinews and lift off the minion 
fillets; streak these with five slices of truffle cut the shape of a cock’s-comb. Lay the large fillets in 
a buttered sautoir and the minion fillets formed into rings in another, filling the centers with 
quenelle forcemeat (No.91) pushed through a cornet and on each one lay a small channeled mush- 
room (No. 118). Butter and decorate with cooked beef tongue, a plain border mold hollowed out. 
on top (Fig. 139), fill it with partridge quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); poach in a bain-marie for half 
an hour first on top of the range and then in the oven. Prepare a fumet with the carcasses as in 
No. 397, strain and reduce with the same quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and a little Ma- 
deira; skim to free it well from fat, removing all the impurities arising on the surface. Sauté 
the fillets, poach the minion fillets, drain off the butter from the former and replace it by a few 
spoonfuls of Madeira to detach the glaze. Make a partridge purée with the meats picked from the 
birds, some rice and béchamel; rub it through a sieve and place it in a saucepan to season with 
salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg, adding plenty of butter. Invert the mold on 
the center of a dish, lift it up and place the fillets on the border with a fried crofton of bread to 
separate each one and pour the purée in the center; serve more of the sauce separately. 


(2087). PARTRIDGES A LA JULES VERNE—BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Per- 
| dreaux & la Jules Verne), 


Fasten a wooden foundation on a dish having it slightly sloped and channeled all around, 
then cover it entirely with cooked paste (No. 131). On the center of this foundation attach a tin 
basket covered over with more of the same paste, embossed and decorated with a pretty hanging 
border; the empty space in the basket is filled with a crofton of fried bread covered with a 
layer of the same paste. The three partridge heads must retain their own feathers and should be 


selected as fresh as possible; to keep them in a proper position, penetrate the necks with a wire 


648 THE EPICUREAN. 


sufficiently thick to uphold them thrusting the other end of the wire into the piece of bread pre- 
pared for this purpose in the basket; between each head is also fastened a small paper case filled 
with atruffle. Raise the breasts from five or six partridges without the minion fillets; suppress the 
skin, beat them to flatten and pare with the same care as is bestowed on a chicken fillet, then 
season and place them at once ina sautoir with clarified butter, at the last moment poach the 





breasts over a good fire turning them around, they should be kept rare, then drained, wiped free of 
Jutter and on each wide end place a round piece of truffle cut out with a round cutter and covered on 
one side with a very thin layer of raw forcemeat to make it adhere. Dress these breasts in a circle the 
pointed ends downward on the paste-covered foundation cover them lightly with a little good 
velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with partridge fumet (No. 397) and serve with a sauce-boatful 
of the same. 


(2088). PARTRIDGES A LA LUCULLUS—BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Perdreaux 
& la Lucullus), 


Roast some partridges that have been wrapped up exactly as explained for 4 la Matignon (No. 
2096); when done remove the breasts, pare and lay them in a sautoir with a little half-glaze (No. 
400). Prepare a fumet (No. 397) with the parings and carcasses. Butter a plain border mold 
deep on the top (Fig. 139), decorate the sides with fanciful cuts of truffles and fill it entirely with 
partridge cream forcemeat (No. 75). Cut some raw artichoke bottoms into small squares, then 
blanch, cut some carrots into half inch diameter balls, and blanch them likewise, some turnips 
the same, blanching them as well, some small cooked mushroom heads and truffles shaped like a 
clove of garlic. First put the artichokes with some butter, add the carrots and turnips, and 
moisten with a little Madeira and the fumet; let cook slowly and when these three vegetables are 
done, then add the mushrooms and truffles; as soon as the liquid reduces entirely pour in some 
velouté sauce (No. 415) and toss the garnishings init, adding small pieces of fresh butter; with this 
fill the hollow in the center of the unmolded border; glaze the breasts or fillets, trim them with 
favor frills (No. 10) and lay them on top of the garnishings; surround the border with small three- 


quarters of an inch balls made of foies-gras from a terrine. pressed through a sieve, bread-crumbed, 
egged, then fried. 


(2089), PARTRIDGES A LA VERON—BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Perdreaux a 
la Véron), 


Trim the breasts of four partridges, then range them in a sautoir with clarified butter, 
and salt over. Cook the legs in a small saucepan with some stock (No.194a), let them get quite cold 
and then cut off the tenderest parts of the meats; pound these with the cooked partridge livers, 
two or three spoonfuls of cooked truffles and two spoonfuls of velouté sauce (No. 415); then press 
the whole through a sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan with an equal amount of chestnut purée 
(No. 712), and two spoonfuls of good melted glaze (No. 398); season and heat without ceasing to 
stir and without letting it boil; finish with a piece of butter. Poach the partridge breasts, drain 
off the butter and pour a little sauce over; dress them in a circle on a dish alternating each 
one with a croaton of bread cut cock’s-comb-shaped and browned in clarified butter; lay the sone 
in the center of the circle, and cover over the fillets with a melted glaze applied with a brush.» 


GAME. 649 


(2090), PARTRIDGES—MINOED (Emincé de Perdreaux), 


Remove the best parts from two breasts of roasted partridges, pare and suppress the skin 
and bones; cut the meat up into small, thin slices and range them ina small sautoir. Reduce 
a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and a little 
Madeira, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs; when of a good succulence, 
strain it over the meats and heat them up without boiling. At the last moment dress the slices on 
asmall, long dish and cover with the sauce; surround with a row of large, stuffed Spanish olives 
heated in a little of the sauce, but they should not boil. 


Minced Pheasant Woodcock or Duckling may be prepared exactly ths same. The olive gar- 
nishing can be replaced by a row of small slices of red beef tongue, or else stuffed and baked 
artichoke bottoms, each one cut in two. 


(2091), PARTRIDGE MINCED WITH RICE (Emineé de Perdreaux au Riz), 


Cut in slices the breasts of two roast partridges; if very tender take also the thick thigh part 
and pare the slices neatly; range them in a sautoir with two or three minced truffles und cover with 
half-glaze sauce (No.413); keep the meats warm in a bain-marie. At the last moment dress the mince 
and truffles in the center ofa risot border inverted on a dish, or else the stew can be served 
alone and surrounded with a row of oval game quenelles, poached, cut in half across, breaded and 
fried, and set on the flat end. Even these quenelles can be replaced by small hollow bread crusts 
cut either into triangles or half circles and covered with a salpicon of truffles. 


(2092), SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES (Salmis de Perdreaux), 


Pick, singe, draw and truss four partridges as for an entrée (No. 178); roast them either on 
the spit or in the oven; they will require half an hour to cook, remove, untruss and let get partly 
cold, then cut them up into five pieces each; the two legs, two fillets and one breast piece; suppress 
all the skin covering each member and put them into a saucepan with buttered paper over and 
cover with the lid; keep either in a bain-marie or else at a moderate heat. Break up the bones, 
put them into another saucepan and moisten with a pint of broth (No.194a) and a pint of Chablis, 
leave it on the range until it boils, then add a pint more broth and let cook very slowly for half 
an hour, being careful to skim off all the fat as it arises to the top, then strain through a napkin. 
Fry in butter a little chopped shallot, thyme, bay leaf and whole peppers, moisten with the stock 
and reduce with as much espagnole sauce (No. 414) stirring well from the bottom with a spatula 
to prevent it adhering thereto. After this sauce is well reduced, pour it through a tammy and 
put one-third of it with the pieces of partridge. Fry sixteen half heart-shaped croftons in butter; 
dish up the salmis putting the legs at the bottom on top of bread croftons, cover these lightly 
with the sauce and lay the wings and breasts between intermingling in the other crofitons and in 
the intersections formed by them, dress some turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118) 
and cut up truffles. Incorporate a few spoonfuls of good oil into the remainder of the sauce and 
pour it over the salmis. 


(2093), PARTRIDGES A LA BAUDRIMONT (Perdreaux & la Baudrimont, 


Roast two partridges; untruss and set aside to cool, remove breast meats in a way to form a 
hollow in the shape of a case, cut the meats into three-eighths of inch squares; prepare an equal 
quantity of mushrooms cut the same, as much ducks’ livers and some small partridge quenelles 
made with a coffeespoon (No. 155). Put a gill of Madeira into a saucepan, heat it well without 
boiling and let a piece of Ceylon cinnamon infuse therein for half an hour, take this out, then 
add some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and reduce the whole; throw in the salpicon and when all is 
cold, use it to fill the partridges, having the breasts nicely rounded; cover over with quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 91), smooth neatly and cover the whole with melted butter; bestrew bread-crumbs 
and parmesan over and brown in a moderate oven, being careful to baste occasionally while 
cooking. Arrange the partridges on a dish, glaze with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) anc 


serve a financiére sauce (No. 464) apart. 


(2094), PARTRIDGES ‘A LA CHARTREUSE (Perdreaux & la Chartreuse), 
Blanch two cabbages each cut in four and the core removed; drain and divide them into small 
clusters, press out all the water and braise them with a piece of bacon of about ten ounces that 
has been previously parboiled. Prepare a garnishing of carrots and turnips, blanch and then cook 


' 


650 THE EPICUREBAN.- 


them in broth to allow finally to fall to a glaze; have also some quenelles made with a coffee- 
spoon (No. 155). Fry in butter or melted fat pork, two trussed partridges, season and when of a 
fine color, drain them off, make a hollow in the middle of the cabbage in the saucepan and lay the 
partridges in, and finish cooking all together. As soon as the birds are done, drain them off and 
keep them warm in a saucepan with a little half-glaze (No. 400), drain off also the bacon and 
cabbage, extract all the fat from the latter and dress half of it in the center of a dish, lay the 
partridges on top and surround with the rest of the cabbage, the carrots, the turnips and the que- 
nelles all in separate clusters. Glaze the partridges over with a brush and serve with a sauce- 
boatful of the half-glaze from the saucepan. 

Another Way.—Decorate a timbale mold with carrots and turnips, upholding the decorations. 
with a layer of thick game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91). Cut up the partridges and fill the mold 
with the cabbage, the bacon and the partridges, place it in a sautoir containing water and put in 
the oven for half an hour; unmold, pour part of the sauce around the chartreuse and serve. A 
half-glaze sauce (No. 418) should be served separately at the same time. 


(2095). PARTRIDGES A LA MARLY (Perdreaux & la Marly). 


Have two partridges, truss them as for an entrée (No. 178), and fill them with well seasoned 
partridge quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), into which mix truffles and cooked beef tongue cut in three- 
sixteenth of an inch squares; tie thin slices of fat pork over and braise in a white wine mirepoix 
stock (No. 419); strain this and put the fat back into the saucepan to keep the birds warm therein. 
Raise the fillets from the breast of a raw partridge, remove the sinews and cut the meats into escal- 
aps; sauté them in butter without browning, drain off the butter, remove the meats and keep them 
warm inthis. Put half apint of the stock used for cooking the partridges into a sautoir with as much 
allemande sauce (No. 407), reduce and add some cut up truffles and mushrooms; the sautéd part- 
ridge. escalops, a little fresh butter and lemon juice. Dress the partridges on the bottom of a dish, 
place the garnishing around, and outside of it lay some crescent-shaped game croquettes (No. 885). 


2096), PARTRIDGES A LA MATIGNON, GARNISHED WITH “PAINS” A LA MONTGLAS— 
(Perdreaux a la Matignon Garnis de Pains & la Montglas), 


Prepare and truss two partridges as for an entrée as in No. 178. Wrap the two partridges 
with dry matignon (No. 406) in several sheets of paper; roast and when done, unwrap and place 
the matignon in a saucepan with some clear gravy (No. 404) and espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce, 
despumate and strain through a tammy. Butter twelve mousseline molds (No. 1, Fig. 138), deco- 
rate them with fanciful cuts of truffles, and cover the entire inside with a layer of partridge que- 
nelle forcemeat (No. 91), filling the center as far up as the edges with a montglas prepared as. 
follows: Cut off the white meats from half of a roasted partridge; have as many mushrooms. 
heads cut the same size, and half as many truffles as mushrooms, also as much cooked beef tongue 
as truffles; mingle these with a little supreme sauce (No. 547), when the molds are full finish with 
more forcemeat. Put some boiling water in a saucepan to reach toa third of the height of the 
molds and poach these in a slack oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Dress the partridges, glaze 
and lay them on top of an oval rice foundation (Fig. 9a); unmold the montglas pains around, 
and cover over with some of the sauce having the rest served apart. 


(2097), PARTRIDGES A LA SOYER (Perdreaux & la Soyer), 


Make a forcemeat with the partridge livers and a few chopped chicken livers; knead in a piece 
of butter, pepper, salt, a little shallot previously fried lightly in butter and chopped parsley. Have 
two trussed: partridges (No. 179); put about two ounces of this prepared forcemeat into each one, 
and cook them on the spit for half an hour; dress on canapés, and pour some clear gravy (No. 404) 
under. Serve separately the same time as the partridges an English bread sauce (No. 488). 


(2098), PARTRIDGES BRAISED A LA MOLIERE (Perdreaux Braisés & la Molidve), 


Truss three partridges as for an entrée (No. 178); cover the breasts with slices of lemon 
and these with bards of fat pork. Line a flat saucepan with the fragments of pork, some 
ham, cut up vegetables and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; lay 
the partridges on top and moisten with half a pint of dry white wine and half a pint of 
stock (No. 194a); boil this liquid, skim and continue to boil slowly either on the side of the 
range or in the oven until the partridges are cooked then drain and untruss. Cut each one 
up into five parts and arrange them in a saucepan to keep warm in a bain-marie with the fat. 


' GAME. 651 


drained from the first saucepan; in the stock place the broken carcasses, moisten with half a pint 
of ciear gravy (No. 404) and half a glassful of Madeira, boil up, then strain through a sieve and 
reduce again to half, thickening it with some velouté sauce (No. 415); pour this over the cut up 
partridges and keep the whole warm. Prepare a partridge quenelle foreemeat (No. 91) mold it with 
a tablespoon the same as explained in No. 733, and range these quenelles in a buttered sautoir, 
decorate with truffles and poach. Dress the partridges on a forcemeat foundation (Fig. 8) without 
the central support and garnish around with the quenelles, cover with a little supreme sauce (No. 
547) serving a sauce-boatful of it separately. 


(2099, PARTRIDGES BROILED—COLBERT SAUCE (Perdreaux Grillés Sauce Colbert), 


After the partridges have been well cleaned, split them lengthwise through their backs; cut 
off the feet and slip the legs under the skin; beat, pare carefully, season with salt and pepper and 
dip them in melted butter and broil over a slow fire; serve when done either on a Colbert sauce: 
(No. 451) or a hunter’s sauce (No. 480) or else a tartar sauce (No. 631). 


(2100). PARTRIDGES TRUFFLED AND ROASTED (Perdreaux Truffés et Rétis), . 


Draw two young partridges, wipe them well and singe. Peel five or six raw truffles, cut them 
in four and season; chop up the peelings and pound them with fresh fat pork, adding to it the 
cooked partridge livers with two or three pullet livers; season the preparation and press it through 
a sieve. Melt a quarter of a pound of grated fat pork, add to it the cut up truffles, season and 
warm up for a few seconds while tossing over the fire, then mix them in with the forcemeat. After 
this preparation has cooled off, use it to fill the partridge breasts and bodies; sew up the openings, 
- truss and cover or else lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), fasten them on the spit and 
roast for fifteen to twenty minutes in front of a good fire, basting over with butter. As soon as they 
are done sprinkle salt over and remove from the spit; untruss and dress each one on a large crust 
_ of bread browned in butter and laid on an oval dish; surround the partridges with sliced lemons. 
only, serving water-cress separately, also some clear gravy (No. 404). 


(2101), PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE (Perdreaux aux Choux), 


Dress four partridges, truss them for ‘an entrée as in No. 178, and plunge the breasts in 
boiling water to stiffen the skin, then lard with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Blanch for fifteen 
minutes four medium cabbages after removing the heart or core, and part of the green leaves; re- 
fresh, drain and press out every particle of water, then divide each quarter into two, remove the 
thick stalks, season lightly with salt and pepper, roll in thin slices of fat pork, tie with a string; put 
them into a braziere (Fig. 134) with the partridges and a pound of bacon cut in two equal-sized pieces. 
and blanched for ten minutes; add also a one pound sausage, four medium carrots cut lengthwise 
in four, two onions, one having two cloves stuck in it, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme. 
and bay leaf. Moisten with some stock (No. 194a) adding a little chicken fat; let cook, and after it 
comes toa boil finish in a slack oven for thirty to forty minutes. If the partridges be old ones. 
they require one hour and a half to cook; remove them from the braziere, also the sausages and 
bacon which must be put under a light weight to cool off; it will take fully three hours to cook the 
cabbages. Have four dozen small carrots cut in pear-shapes and as many turnips of cylindrica! 
form, two inches long by half an inch in diameter, round the ends neatly, then blanch, cook ana 
let fall to a glaze separately. Half an hour before serving return the partridges to the cabbages 
and keep the whole warm. Cut the bacon into large three-fourths of an inch squares, the sausages 
into slices, and put both these into a sautoir witha few spoonfuls of the cabbage stock so that they 
keep hot until ready to serve; drain the ¢abbages through a colander, pressing it ightly to form 
into a socle on the bottom of the dish, laying the four untrussed partridges on top in a square, 
placing two clusters of carrots and two of turnips, alternated with the slices of sausages between 
the partridges, having the bacon in the center on top. Cover the partridges only with a half- 
glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve some of the same sauce separately. 


(2102), PARTRIDGES LARDED AND ROASTED WITH GRAVY AND WATER-CRESSES 
(Perdreaux Piqués Rétis au Jus Garnis de Oresson), 


Prepare and truss the partridges for roasting as explained in No. 179; dip the breasts into. 
boiling water to stiffen the skin, and lard with small lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52). Lay them on the 
spit to roast, salt over and untruss a few moments before serving; glaze and dress on a canapé 


G52 THE EPICUREAN. 


and surround with water-cress, serving at the same time a sauce-boatful of partridge fumet (No. 
397) or clear gravy (No. 404). They can be barded instead of larded by covering their breasts with 
a thin slice of fat pork, tying it on with three rounds of string; roast and dress the same as the 
others. An ounce of good butter may be placed inside of each bird before cooking. 


(2103), PARTRIDGES WITH OLIVES (Perdreaux aux Olives). 


Lard two good-sized partridges with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), and put them into a 
narrow saucepan lined with fragments of the same pork, minced roots and onions; season and 
moisten with a little white wine, then reduce toa glaze. Cook the partridges in very little 
moisture with stock (No. 194a), having it fall several times to a glaze. After the partridges are 
nicely done, drain them off to untruss. Strain the stock, skim off its fat and reduce, then incor- 
porate it into brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced with two spoonfuls of Madeira 
added at the same time. Dress the partridges on a dish, surround with a garnishing of olives 
stuffed with baked forcemeat (No. 81), then poached and covered over with some of the sauce; 


‘serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 


(2104), PARTRIDGE WITH SAUERKRAUT (Perdreau & la Choucroute), 


Cut a roast partridge into small pieces and lay them aside. With the game bones and parings 
some aromatic herbs and white wine, prepare a small quantity of concentrated fumet (No. 397); thicken 
it with very little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and keep it ina bain-marie. Cook some good sauerkraut 
with a small piece of bacon, proceeding as for garnished sauerkraut (No. 2819), adding a piece of 
butter divided into small pats, dish it up and form a hollow in the center; into this dress the pieces 
of game, pour over the sauce, cover with the sauerkraut and surround this with the bacon cut in 


‘slices. 





Fic. 401. 


(2105), BREASTS OR FILLETS OF PHEASANTS WITH TRUFFLES (Ailes ou Filets de Faisans 


aux Truffes), 


Raise the breasts from six pheasants; remove the minion fillets, pare the large ones into half 
hearts after suppressing the skin and lay them in a thickly buttered sauté pan and cover over 
with melted butter; place the minion fillets in a smaller sauté pan after removing the thin skin 


GAME. 653: 


that covers them also the sinews; streak them by cutting six bias fivisions on the surface and 
filling these with half circles of channeled truffles and finish by giving them the shape of a ring. 


_ cover over with very thin bards of fat pork or else buttered paper. Make a fumet (No. 397) with 


the parings and legs, suppressing the rump, and add to it carrots, onions and a garished bunch of 
parsley (No.123), moisten with a pint of stock (No.194a) and two gills of Madeira and let this come to. 
a boil and continue the ebullition process very slowly for one hour and a half, strain through a napkin 
and separate it into two parts, reduce one of these to the consistency of a light glaze and to 
the other add as much velouté sauce (No. 415) that is being reduced. Escalop one pound of fine 
truffles, put them in a bain-marie with a little meat glaze (No. 402), Madeira and as much fine 
butter, close the receptacle well and keep hot for at least fifteen minutes. Just when prepared to 

serve, sauté the pheasants’ breasts; finish cooking them in a slack oven and when the larger fillets. 
are done drain off the butter, being careful to retain the glaze, detach this with a little Madeira 
and add some velouté sauce (No. 415) and fresh butter; dress the large fillets in a circle, cover 
with half of the above sauce and on the large ones lay the smaller ones, brush over with meat: 
glaze (No. 402), pouring the truffles in the center; serve the other half of the sauce separately. 


(2106), SALMIS OF PHEASANT A LA LORENZO (Salmis de Faisan & la Lorenzo), 


After the pheasant has been roasted the same as for No. 2107, cut it up into six or eight: 
pieces; pare these nicely, removing all the skin, put them into a saucepan with half a pint of red. 
or white wine, two shallots cut in three-eighths inch squares, the peel of a bitter or an ordinary 
orange and that of a lemon, all cut in small fillets and then blanched; add a pint of espagnole. 
(No. 414) and a few spoonfuls of game glaze (No. 398). Pound the parings, rub through a sieve 
and add this pulp to the sauce, heat it up without boiling and keep it warm in the same way in a 
bain-marie. Dish up the pheasants, squeeze the juice of a bitter orange into the sauce and pour 
it over the dressed birds, garnish around with bread-crumb croftons cut in heart-shapes and fried. 
in butter and small game croquettes prepared as for No. 885. 


(2107), PHEASANTS ADORNED WITH THEIR OWN PLUMAGE—ROASTED (Faisans Rotis 
Garnis de Leur Plumage). 


The pheasant’s head can be preserved in advance and also keep carefully the wings and tail intact.. 
Pick the pheasants, singe, draw and truss for roasting (No. 179); bard them over and roast either on. 
the spit or in the oven, basting frequently while cooking; when done, take off, untruss and dress on. 
top of trimmed croatons hollowed out in such a way that the pheasants can stand well on them; 
glaze over and decorate with their own plumage, keeping it in place with metal skewers and letting 
them appear natural and lifelike; surround with clusters of water-cress. Strain and skim the fat 
from the dripping-pan stock and dilute it with some clear gravy (No. 404); pour a third of it over 
the pheasants and the other two-thirds serve in a sauce-boat. 


(2108). PHEASANTS A LA MONTEBELLO (Faisans & la Montebello). 


Cut into quarter inch squares, three-quarters of a pound of cooked duck’s livers, and a quarter 
of a pound of truffles, season with salt and pepper, add half a pound of butter and put this equally 
inside of two pheasants; truss them for an entrée (No. 178), and cover with bards of fat pork; place 
them in an oval braziere saucepan (Fig. 134), and moisten with half a pint of champagne and a pint 
of mirepoix stock (No. 419). Cook on a slow fire or in the oven for three-quarters of an hour. 
Prepare a garnishing to be composed of escaloped and braised foies-gras, eighteen large truffles, 
fourteen double cocks’-combs, and fourteen fine cocks’-kidneys. Just when ready to serve drain 
off the pheasants and untruss. Have already prepared a conical-shaped piece of bread-crumbs, 
four and a half inches long by three inches wide, and eight inches high; made for the purpose of 
upholding the birds; form a hollow on each side near the top to enable the pheasants to be placed 
therein; fry this piece of bread to a fine color, and paste it on the dish. Place the birds in an 
incline inside this hollow space with the breasts uppermost, and then garnish all around with the 
truffles, livers, and kidneys, so that the bread is completely covered; trim five skewers with some 
of the truffles and the cocks’-combs (Fig. 11); stick two of them in each pheasant, and one on 
the summit of the bread; cover the whole with espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the essence 


of truffles, and serve more of it in a separate sauce-boat. 


654 THE EPICUREAN. 


le air 


(2109), PHEASANT A LA PERIGUEUX (Faisan & la Périgueux), 


Have a good pheasant not too gamey; break the breastbone and fill the empty breast with 
liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), mixed with a salpicon of cooked truffles. Truss it with the 
legs thrust inside and cover the breast with a dry mirepoix (No. 419) wrap it in a half sheet 
of buttered paper tied on with a string. Fasten the pheasant on the spit and let roast for 
fifty to sixty minutes before a good fire while basting, then take it off, untie and dish it up, cover- 
ing it with a Périgueux sauce (No. 517). Serve some of the same sauce separately. 


(2110), PHEASANT TRUFFLED—ROASTED (Faisan Truffé Roti), ° 


Choose a good, fat, well set, and tender pheasant; after it has been drawn and well cleaned, 
fill its inside and breast with raw, peeled trufiles, slightly fried in melted fat pork, and seasoned, 
proceeding the same as for truffled pullet (No. 1992). Lard the pheasant or else wrap it up in fat 
pork; thrust a small skewer through in order to fasten it to the spit and roast for fifty to sixty 
minutes according to its tenderness, basting it over with butter. As soon as it is done, detach the 
bird, untruss it on a dish or else on a thick oval slice of bread browned-in butter. Serve with a 
separate sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404) and some water-cress. 


(2111), PHEASANT WITH TRUFFLES—LARDED (Faisan Piqué aux Truffes). 


Break the breastbone of a clean pheasant to facilitate the removal of the bone, and fill up the 
empty space with baking forcemeat (No. 81) mixed with a little raw forcemeat (No. 91), and raw, 
chopped truffles added; sew the skin underneath the breast and truss with the legs pushed in the 
thigh; this is done by removing the drumstick and pushing the leg bone back into this space; put 
the pheasant in a narrow saucepan lined with fat pork, salt over and besprinkle with melted butter. 
Cook for forty-five minutes while covered, basting over frequently, and lastly glaze it, then drain. 
Untruss it on a rice foundation (Fig. 9a) poached on a dish and surround this with round, peeled 
truffles cooked in wine; pour into the bottom of the dish a few spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414) 
reduced with the truffle liquid and a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine. Accompany this entrée with 
a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. 


(2112), WILD PIGEON OR SQUABS POUPETON, ANCIENT STYLE (Poupeton de Pigeons Ramier 


ou de Ramereaux a ]’Ancienne). 


Chop up half a pound of veal with half a pound of beef marrow and half a pound of fat pork; 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; pound all together, mixing in four ounces of soaked and well 
pressed bread-crumbs, two whole eggs, some chopped mushrooms fried in butter and chopped pars- 
ley. . Lay a buttered flawn ring eight inches in diameter on a sheet of buttered paper; fill the bottom 
and sides with the forcemeat (No.81) and in the center lay a stew made of six wild pigeons prepared 
as explained below. Cover the top with more of the forcemeat, having it bomb-shaped, egg over and 
cook in a moderate oven. For the wild pigeon stew, truss the pigeons as for an entrée (No. 178); 
brown them in butter with escalops of uncooked sweetbreads, some ham or bacon cut in five-eighths 
Squares and blanched mushrooms, also a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Dredge three 
tablespoonfuls of butter over the whole and let it attain a fine color; then moisten with white 
wine and stock (No. 194a). When the birds are cooked suppress the parsley, reduce and thicken 
the sauce, adding the juice of a lemon; put it into a vessel to get cold and then cut the birds 
lengthwise in two, pare neatly and use “ig filling the inside of the poupeton. 


Wild Squabs are roasted or broiled the same as tame squabs. See No. 2018. 


(2113), GOLDEN PLOVER OR GRASS PLOVER AND BUSTARD PLOVER (Le Pluvier ou le 


Vanneau), 


Plover’s meat is of a very delicate taste; it excites the appetite and digests easily. Plover 
are eaten larded or barded after being drawn and then cooked on a brisk fire. The golden and 
the bustard plover are very much alike, living in the same localities, eating the same food, and their 


meats are almost similar. Golden plover’s eggs are used the same as bustard plover, but are con- 
sidered much inferior. 


rier 
== 


GAME. 655 


(2114), PLOVERS A LA MONTAUBAN (Pluviers & la Montauban). 


Draw, singe and clean the plovers, thrust the legs inside and split them lengthways through 
the back; open, beat and season with salt and pepper; sauté them in clarified butter, drain this off 
and moisten with a little champagne and brown sauce (No. 414), adding some peeled and sliced 
or whole truffles. Dress the plovers in a straight row, surround them with the truffles and strain 


the sauce through a tammy, pour part of it over and serve the rest in a sauce-hoat. 


(2115), PLOVERS A LA STOUGHTON (Pluviers a la Stoughton), 


Draw the plovers, singe, clean and poéler them as for No. 12; after wrapping them in thin 
bards of fresh fat pork tying each one on with three rows of string. Fry the intestines in butter, 
carefully suppressing the gizzard and stomach pouch, drain off the butter and replace it by Madeira 
and brown sauce (No. 414). Then simmer for a few minutes; pass it through a tammy and add 
to it some foies-gras escalops, truffles and cocks’-combs; dress the plovers in a low croustade made 
of tart paste (No. 149) and pour over the garnishing. 


(2116), PLOVERS A LA PARNY—BREASTS (Filets de Pluviers & la Parny). 


Raise the breasts from six plovers; pare, beat, salt and sauté them lightly on the side that 
adheres to the bones; cover this side with a salpicon of fresh mushrooms mixed with a reduced, 
thick half-glaze sauce (No. 413); spread a layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) on top and _ bestrew 
with finely chopped truffles; range them in a sautoir, pour melted butter over and ten minutes 
before serving, set them in a hot oven and baste at times with melted clarified butter. Drain 
as soon as they are done and dress in a circle on the edge of a low, carved rice foundation (Fig. 
9a); fill the inside of the circle with small turned mushroom heads (No. 118) mingled with espagnole 
sauce (No. 414), reduced mushroom essence (No. 392) and Marsala wine. Serve a sauce-boat 
of this brown sauce at the same time as the fillets. 


(2117), PLOVERS A LA VICTOR HUGO—BREASTS (Filets de Pluviers & la Victor Hugo). 


Remove all the skin from the breasts taken from seven plovers; streak the minion fillets rounds 
of truffles, pare the larger ones into half hearts rounded on one end and pointed on the other; place 
a minion fillet twisted into a half-circle on the edge of the round end of the fillet itself, and range 
these in a sautoir, cover with butter and cook in a hot oven, basting frequently while cooking. 
Prepare fourteen half heart-shaped croustades the same size as the fillets, made with very thin 
foundation paste (No. 135) and fill with paper and rice; empty them as soon as done and egg over 
the outside, return them for an instant to the oven to color, and then fill them with a purée of 
mushroons (No. 722); lay one of the fillets in each and glaze over. Serve separately a brown sauce 
(No. 414) with game fumet (No. 397) and Madeira. 


(2118), PLOVERS BROILED (Pluviers Grillés), 


Split them lengthwise in two through the back, open and flatten (see broiled woodcock, No. 
2204): season with salt and pepper, coat them with oil and broil in a double gridiron; dress on 
crotitons of basted bread, cover with maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581) and serve. 


(2119), PLOVERS ROASTED (Pluviers Rotis), 


Singe and draw half a dozen of either golden or grass plovers. With their intestines and 
some grated fat pork make a dressing seasoned with salt, pepper, parsley and finely chopped 
shallot fried in butter; fill the insides of the birds, bard them over tying on the pork. 
Turn the feet and maintain them by passing one through the other; run the under part of the 
throat on the leg to keep it in this position; thrust a skewer through, fastening it on the spit, 
and when cooked remove, untruss and dress on top of crofitons (No. 51), pour over some good. 
gravy into which mix game glaze (No. 398); surround with water-cress seasoned with vinegar and 
salt. 


(2190), PLOVERS ROASTED A LA MARTEL—LARDED (Pluviers Piqués Rotis & la Martel), 
After being drawn, or simply after removing the gizzard, for they are frequently roasted the 
same as woodcock without drawing, only trussed and larded with fine lardings of pork (No. 4, Fig. 
52); fry their intestines with melted fat pork and a few good chicken livers, chopped truffles and 


656 | THE EPICUREAN. 


cognac to make a preparation the same as described for woodcock canapés (No. 2205), and with 
it cover some oblong crusts. Glaze and heat them at the oven door and serve with the birds on 
these. Have a separate colbert sauce (No. 451) finished with cayenne butter (No. 571). 


(2121), SALMIS OF YELLOW-LEG PLOVERS ‘A LA DUCLAIR (Salmis de Pluviers & Pattes 


Jaunes & la Duclair), 


Roast six yellow-leg plovers very rare either on the spit or in the oven; cut them up for a salmis 
retaining only the breasts, cut these in two through the center; pound the remainder of the 


meats with the same quantity of rice to obtain a purée; with the broken up carcass make a white — 


wine fumet (No. 397); dress the fillets in a circle and fill the center with the purée, lay on top of 
it some slices of truffle warmed up in half-glaze (No.400) with Madeira and fresh butter. Prepare some 
forcemeat as follows: Fry the intestines in butter with chopped shallots and chicken livers, season 
and rub through a sieve. Make some oblong crusts two and a half inches long, two wide and half 
an inch in thickness, slit them all around and fry to a fine color in clarified butter, remove the 
upper part and empty out the centers, then fill them with the prepared forcemeat, rounding it 
slightly on top and poach in a slack oven. Range these crusts around the dressed salmis and serve 
with a sauce-boat of espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the fumet and Madeira wine. | 


(2122), BUSTARD PLOVERS A LA DUMANOIR (Vanneaux & la Dumanoir), 


Chop up the intestines of several bustard plovers with as much grated fat pork, pound and 
press through a sieve, add fine spices and chopped truffle parings, mixing in a little brandy and a 
soup¢on of garlic. Truss the plovers as for roasting (No. 179), stuff them with the above prepara- 
tion and roast in a hot oven. Dress them when done on hollow oval bread crofittons. Glaze.them 
over with game glaze (No. 398), pour a little gravy in the bottom of the dish and serve separately a 
small quantity of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. 


(2123), QUAILS A LA OAPREA (Cailles & la Capréa), 


Truss eight quails as for entrée (No. 178), after picking, singeing, drawing, and cleaning them 
well; stuff them with butter into which has been mingled salt, pepper, and lemon juice, then sauté 
them in some butter; transfer to a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, and cook with a very little 
white wine mirepoix stock (No.419); place around a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, eight 
ounces of lean bacon cut in quarter inch squares, and eight ounces of lean ham cut the same, also 
eight ounces of artichoke bottoms, the whole blanched separately, and four ounces of truffles cut as 
cloves of garlic. When the quails are cooked, untruss and transfer them to another saucepan, 
skim the stock, and pour the strained fat over the quails to keep them hot; now strain the stock 
itself, remove all the fat that is left, and add it to some espagnole sauce (No.414), and a little Madei- 
ra; Season and boil it down to the consistency of a succulent sauce. Blanch four ounces of rice, cook 
it with very little unskimmed stock (No. 194a), and when done place it in a flat bottomed border mold 
(Fig. 139) having it carefully buttered, or if tounmold at once dip it merely into cold water; fill it very 
tight, unmold on a dish and on top of the border lay oval pieces of tongue, a quarter of an inch thick 
by three inches long and two inches wide; remove the centers, making the same shape oval only 
two inches long and one inch wide; on these lay the quails, glaze over with game glaze (No. 398), 
and inside the center of the border dress the bacon, ham, artichoke bottoms, and truffles; cover 
with some ot the sauce, serving more apart. 


(2124), QUAILS A LA MACEDOINE—LARDED (Oailles Piquées & la Macédoine), 


Truss eight quails after they have been picked, drawn, and singed, proceeding the same as for 
an entrée (No. 178); dip the breasts in boiling water and lard them with small lardons (No. 4, Fig. 
52). Line a low saucepan with bards of fat pork, lay the quails on top, and moisten with a white 
wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); braise in a slack oven and when almost done, glaze over. Untruss 
and dress in a circle with a garnishing of macédoine vegetables (No. 680), in the center; strain 
the stock, free it of its fat, and reduce to the consistency of half-glaze, serving it separately. The 
quails may be barded instead of larded, and the macédoine replaced by green peas Parisian style 
(No. 2745), or else cucumbers cut as cloves of garlic, blanched and cooked in consommé (No. 189), 
then thickened with bechamel (No. 409), etc. 





GAN i719 =F 657 


(2125). QUAILS A LA MIREPOIX (Cailles & la Mirepoix), 


Bone the breasts from the inside of six small and singed quails. Shred finely into smalk 
Julienne, some onions, red part of carrots, tender celery stalks, and fresh mushrooms; fry all these 
very slowly with butter in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally until cooked; season and remove. 
Leave these ingredients to cool off partially in the saucepan, then put in two or three spoonfuls of 
glaze (No. 398) barely melted so as to have a thick preparation of a proper consistency to roll 
into balls. Insert one of these balls into the breast of every quail, sew up the skin, truss and fry 
them for two minutes in a saucepan; season and moisten with a gill of Madeira wine: glaze over 
with a brush, and finish cooking them smothered. When the quails are properly done, drain off 
to untruss; lay each one in an oval china case with a part of their stock; cover with a little good, 
reduced, thick brown sauce (No. 414) having it almost cold, and let this sauce become glossy for 
two minutes at the oven door; serve the quails at once. 


(2126). QUAILS, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Cailles & la Piémontaise), 


Bone the breasts of four or five clean quails, fill in the empty space with a baked forcemeat (No. 
81) and truffles, mingled with a little raw forcemeat (No. 91); truss and cook smothered with Madeira 
Wine and gravy. Have one quart of water, half a pound of polenta, and a piece of butter and some: 
salt and with it prepare a mush; as soon as done, finish with a handful of parmesan and another 
piece of butter. With this preparation fill a buttered border mold (Fig. 189) and keep it warm. Fry 
quickly in butter about fifteen small Chipolata sausages (No. 754), drain, cut them apart and glaze 
over with a brush. At the last moment, lift up the quails and cut each one in two, unmold the 
polenta border on a hot dish, dress the quails pyramidically in the center and lay the halved sau- 
sages in a circle on top of the border, cover the border and sausages with Piedmontese brown sauce 
(No. 519). ; 


(2127), QUAILS A LA TALLEYRAND—BREASTS (Filets de Oailles & la Talleyrand), 


Raise the fillets, suppress the skin and nerves and pare them into half hearts, season and sauté 
with slices of raw truffles add a half-glaze sauce with Madeira (No. 413). Lay them on half heart- 
shaped bread crotitons the same size as the fillets and hollowed out, then filled with a salpicon of 
mushrooms mingled with half-glaze sauce made of game essence (No. 389). Dress in a circle ona 
dish, put truffles in the center and pour the sauce over all. 


(2128). QUAILS BROILED (ailles Grillées), 


Have the birds very clean and truss with the legs thrust inside; split them through the back 
without separating, open, trim, beat and season, then coat them over with butter or oil and broil. 
Dress on well pared toasted slices of bread and cover with maitre-d’hotel butter (No. 581). 


(2129). QUAIL CUTLETS, GIRONDINS (Cotelettes de Cailles aux Girondins), 


Prepare the same as the above, split them in two equal parts, the legs to form a handle and 
trim with a fancy frill (No. 10). Sauté on a brisk fire, keeping them rare, then place under a light 
weight, cover over with Villeroi sauce (No. 560), let get cold, then dip in eggs and bread-crumbs 
and fry in clarified butter, dress on crofitons of cooked red beef tongue, filling the center with 
minced cépes fried in oil, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley; drain and mix in with the 
cepes a little game glaze (No. 898) and lemon juice. Serve a sauce-boat of Bordelaise sauce (No. 
436) at same time. 


(2130), QUAILS IN PAPERS (Cailles en Papillotes), 


Prepare eight cleaned quails by removing the bones beginning at the back and leave on one 
leg only, then stuff with game forcemeat (No. 91) into which has been added cooked fine herbs 
(No. 385) and a little glaze (No. 402); put them into half heart-shaped bottomless molds, having 
them laid on a baking sheet covered with thin bards of fat pork, pour butter over and cook in 
a moderate oven for half an hour; leave them in their molds and seta weight on top. Fre 
in butter chopped shallot, mushrooms, truffles and parsley, add a quart of velouté sauc 
(No. 415), reduce and thicken with four egg-yolks, a ttle cream and the juice of two strainea 
lemons. Cut out six sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, coat them with oil; on the 
right side of the heart and near the center having the point toward you, place on a layer of the 


658 THE EPICUREAN. 


cooked fine herb sauce (No. 385), over this a quail, and on top another layer of the sauce; fold 
the paper in two forming a half heart, crimp the two edges together to enclose hermetically and 
then set each one on a small silver dish; place them in a slack oven for fifteen to twenty minutes 
and when a fine color serve, placing the hot dish from the oven on a second plate. 


(2181), QUAILS ROASTED (Cailles Roties). 


After they have been plucked and drawn, singe and cut off the end of the claws; truss and 
cover the breasts, first with a grape leaf buttered over with a brush, and then with a thin 
slice of fat pork; run them on small skewers and fasten them to the spit; baste over with melted 
butter and let cook for fourteen to sixteen minutes then salt; take off and untruss, or they may be 
put in a baking pan sprinkled with butter and cooked in a hot oven. Dress each one on a crust 
covered with a layer’ of baking forcemeat with foies-gras (No. 78), and serve at the same time 
some clear gravy (No. 404). 

(2132), QUAILS, SALMIS OF, A LA MORISINI (Salmis de Oailles & la Morisini) 

Prepare six quails the same as for roasting (No. 2131), divide them in two splitting through the 
center of the breast, suppress the legs and pare the remainder of the birds. Mince two shallots 
finely, break the legs and put them into a saucepan with the fragments of quail and the shallots; 
moisten with red or white Bordeaux wine (either will answer), and as much mirepoix stock (No. 
419) and espagnole sauce (No. 414). Let boil slowly for fifteen minutes, then strain through a 
sieve, put in the quails, heat up without boiling and dish up in a circle. Add some finely cut up 
mushrooms and truffles to the sauce and pour it over the quails; surround the salmis with heart- 
shaped bread crofitons fried in butter. 


(2133), QUAILS WITH BAY LEAF (Cailles au Laurier), 


Pick, draw and singe six quails, truss for roasting (No. 179). Chop up the livers, the same 
quantity of chicken liver and as much grated fat pork as liver; add chopped parsley, pepper, a 
tablespoonful of chopped shallot, a handful of bread-crumbs and one small beaten egg. Mix the 
ingredients well together and fill the quails with it; roast them in a moderate oven, basting over 
frequently with lard; drain this into a saucepan and add to it some bread-crumbs, raw ham cut in 
one-eighth squares, fry nicely and put in two bay leaves, moisten with thickened, gravy (No. 
405) and game-glaze (No. 398); skim off the fat, add the juice of a lemon and also a little butter; 
mix well with a wire whisk, dress, and pour the sauce over the quails. 


(2134), QUAILS WITH MUSHROOMS—STUFFED (Cailles Farcies aux Champignons). 


This entrée is dressed on a foundation covered with cooked paste (No. 131) having a low 
support fastened to the center, also covered with the same cooked paste and decorated on the upper 
edge with a raised border, it being spread out and open-worked (Fig. 8). Bone the breasts of ten 
quails, fill up the empty space with a baking forcemeat (No. 81), mixed with a little raw forcemeat 





Fie. 402, 


(No. 73), and a few spoonfuls of raw truffles cut in small dice; sew up the skin, truss and cover 
with bards of salt pork. Lay them ina deep sautoir lined with salt pork, roots and minced onions, 
moisten with a glassful of white wine and let reduce, then remoisten with unskimmed stock (No. 
194a). Boil the liquid, withdraw the pan to a slower fire to finish cooking the quails, drain them 
off, untruss and untie. Cut each one lengthwise in two and dress them to imitate a rosette on 
the foundation, standing almost upright without injuring their shapes and leaning them against 
the support. Fill up the empty border with a garnishing of pretty white mushrooms all of the 


same size; cover them as well as the quails with a little good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced 
with the quail stock and that of the mushrooms. 


GAME. | 3 ) 659 


(2135), QUAILS WITH RISOT (ailles au Risot), 


Draw four or five singed quails, bone the breasts from the inside of the birds and fill in the 
empty space with baked forcemeat (No. 81), mingled with a little raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) 
and having chopped truffles added. Truss the quails, fry in a sautoir with butter, season and 
moisten with Madeira wine and gravy (No. 404), reduce this liquid to half and finish cooking them 
smothered. At the last moment drain off, untruss and split each one lengthwise in two, then 
dress on a risot (No. 739). Strain the stock, remove its fat and pour it over the birds. 


(2136), CALIFORNIA QUAILS A LA MONTEREY (Gailles de Californie & la Monterey), 


Having drawn and singed six California quails leave the breast skin as long as possible with- 
‘out breaking it. Peel half a pound of truffles, chop up the peelings and cut the truffles in half 
inch square pieces, season with No. 1 spices (No. 168), then add the livers, a few chicken livers, 
a little brandy, a soupgon of garlic and four ounces of fresh butter; stuff the quails with this and 
truss them for an entrée (No. 178), cover with thin bards of fat pork tying it on with three rows of 
string, run a skewer through and range them on the spit; put to the fire for about three-quarters 
‘of an hour, then unwrap and dress on hollow crusts forming them into a circle; cover with half- 
glaze sauce (No. 413) finished with essence of truffles (No. 395) and fill the center with cooked — 
and turned small mushroom heads, turned olives and small game quenelles made with a coffeespoon 
(No. 155); pour some sauce into this garnishing, serving more separately. 


(2137). YOUNG RABBIT A LA CELTOISE (Lapereau a la Celtoise), 


Divide a young rabbit into twelve pieces after skinning and drawing it; put these to steep in a 
Yaw marinade for six hours, then drain and wipe, lay the pieces in a sautoir with fat pork cut in 
half inch squares and blanched; set the sautoir on a good fire and fry the rabbit with the addition 
of some small onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; 
when the meats are done, baste them over with white wine and some clear gravy (No.404), adding six 
peeled tomatoes cut across in two and the seeds well extracted, also half a pound of lean cooked 
bam cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and a pint of brown sauce (No. 414). Remove the parsley, 
skim off the fat and season highly with salt, pepper and prepared red pepper (No. 168); dress the 
rabbits inside a risot 4 la piemontese border (No. 2981), pour very little of the sauce over and serve. 


(2138), YOUNG RABBITS A LA THIEBLIN (Lapereaux & la Thiéblin), 


Skin, empty, and trim two young rabbits; put the livers aside, and divide each rabbit into 
twelve pieces; heat some oil and butter, half of each, in a sautoir, put in the pieces of rabbit, and 
season well with salt, pepper, a crushed clove of garlic, and a bunch of parsley garnished with 
thyme and bay leaf; fry them quickly, moisten with espagnole sauce (No. 414), white wine, a 
little clear gravy (No. 404), and tomatoes; let simmer till thoroughly cooked, and add the sautéed 
livers, and some mushrooms. Dress the rabbit and mushrooms, covering over with the sauce. 
Prepare a rabbit forcemeat (No. 84), mix with it a little espagnole sauce reduced and stirred with 
some half-glaze made of game fumet (No. 397); place it in small oval molds and poach in the 
oven; cut them in two lengthways, bread-crumb them first without any eggs, then again with 
eggs, and fry to a fine color in clarified butter; drain, wipe, and dress them around the rabbit. 
Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) made with game fumet (No. 397). 


(2139), YOUNG RABBITS, VALENCIA STYLE (Lapereaux & la Valence), 


Cut up in twelve pieces each, two skinned and drawn young rabbits; put half a pound of 
chopped fat pork in a sautoir, adding the rabbits when it is very hot and fry over a brisk fire, 
season with salt and pepper, and add also half a pound of blanched bacon cut in quarter inch 
squares, one medium onion cut the same size, four quartered, peeled and pressed tomatoes, and a 
punch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and a clove of garlic. Cover the saucepan and 
cook on a moderate fire; just when ready to serve, skim off the fat, suppress the parsley, and put 
in a little game glaze (No. 398); dress and dredge chopped parsley over the top. Stiffen some 
small oiled cases in the oven, fill them with rabbit foreemeat (No. 84), into which cooked fine herbs 
(No. 385) have been added; place on top the minion fillet scored with truffies removed from the 
rabbit, and over these thin slices of fat pork; bake in a slow oven, drain off the fat, and lay a 
small glazed truffle in the center of each fillet; range these cases around the dish, and serve. 


660 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2140), YOUNG RABBITS, HUNTER’S STYLE (Lapereaux au Chasseur), 


Skin and draw two young rabbits; wash, wipe, and cut each one into twelve pieces; put them 
into a sautoir on a brisk fire to fry and color the meats lightly, adding half a pound of raw ham 
cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, four ounces of onions cut exactly the same size, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, garlic, and a clove. Drain off the fat, and season with 
salt and pepper, putting in a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and as much Burgundy wine; sim- 
mer, reduce, and add a pint of cooked minced mushrooms and half as many truffles. Dish it up 
and garnish with the mushrooms and truffles, pour a third of the sauce over, and range crofitons 
of bread fried in butter all around; serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat. 


(2141), WILD RABBIT JUGGED WITH BLOOD (Civet de Lapin de Garenne au Sang), 


Procure a good, young, fleshy wild rabbit, preserve all the blood in a bowl, stirring into it 
a little vinegar to keep it liquid. Skin and prepare it, and cut it up into equal-sized pieces. Put 
the meats into a vessel to season and let marinate for two hours with a little boiled vinegar, a 
little white wine and a tied bunch of fresh and wild thyme. Chop up some fat pork, melt it ina 
frying pan and add toit half a pound of small squares of bacon; after these are well sized, remove 
them with a skimmer and add to the fat the well-drained pieces of rabbit and cut up onions; fry 
over a good fire until the meats are nicely browned and have evaporated their moisture, then 
put them into a fireproof stone vessel with a glassful of red wine; reduce this over a brisk fire and 
moisten the meats at once to their height with white wine and stock (No. 194a); let this liquid 
come to a boil, then remove the vessel on one side to boil gently until partly done; strain the 
liquid through a sieve, pare the surplus bones from the meats and return the latter to the 
saucepan with the cut up bacon, the marinade, a bunch of parsley and a peeled clove of garlic. 
Put the stew back on the fire and thicken it with a little cooked roux or diluted flour, finish 
cooking slowly. A few moments before serving, transfer all the pieces of rabbit and bacon into 
another saucepan, strain the sauce over and boil up once or twice thickening it off the fire with 
the reserved blood; let cook again but without boiling. Dress the stew on a dish and surround it 
with small clusters of onions glazed separately, if intended for a more ceremonious dish, a few 
clusters of fresh, peeled mushrooms cooked in butter may be added. 


(2142), YOUNG RABBIT ROASTED AND LARDED (Levraut Piqué et Roti), 


Suppress the skin from the back and hind legs of a good, trimmed rabbit; fill the body with a 
bread forcemeat (No. 61), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped truffles mixed with a third 
as much liver baking forcemeat (No. 64); sew up the opening. Break the bone of the thick thigh 





Fig. 403. 


part so as to be able to bend the legs under and keep them in position while trussing; truss also 
the fore legs and the head, keeping the latter upright. Lard the back and thighs with larding 
pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay the rabbit ona spit, maintaining it in position with skewers, and 
roast it for thirty to forty minutes, basting over frequently with butter, and when done salt it 


over. Remove, untruss, and dress on a dish; serve separately some clear gravy (No. 404), also 
a light sharp sauce (No. 538). . 


(2143), FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS A LA BIENVENU, GARNISHED WITH CROQUETTES 
(Filets de Lapereaux 4 la Bienvenu, Garnis de Croquettes), 


Remove and lard both the fillets and minion fillets from four young rabbits, having the lardons 
exceedingly small (No. 4, Fig. 52); place them in a sauté pan with clarified butter, place on a brisk 


GAME. 7 661 


fire,let cook and drain off the butter, detaching the glaze with a little white wine. Dress them in 
the center of a dish and serve witn a separate marinade sauce (No. 496), garnishing around 
with prepared croquettes as follows: 


Hare Croquettes.—Fry colorless in butter, one ounce of finely chopped onions adding four 
ounces of chopped mushrooms and eight ounces of cold roast rabbit taken from the legs and 
shoulders, mix with a well reduced brown sauce (No. 414), also a little meat glaze (No. 402) and 
fresh butter, add salt, pepper and chopped parsley; when this preparation is cold divide it into inch 
and a half balls, flatten them to three-quarters of an inch thick, dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs 
and fry toa fine golden color; drain, wipe and lay them around the dressed rabbit, resting one 
against the other; serve with the sauce as explained above. 


(2144), FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS A LA LAVOISIER (Filets de Lapereaux a& la Lavoisier), 


Raise the fillets and minion fillets from four young rabbits, suppress all the nerves and cut 
them into bias slices; flatten and shape into half hearts, split them through their thickness to form 
-a pocket and season this with salted spices (No.168), stu® the cavity with reduced duxelle (No. 385) 
and cover over with very consistent allemande sauce (No. 407); when cold, dip in eggs and bread- 
crumbs, then sauté in butter, draining this off when done, decorate with fancy favor frills (No. 10) 
and dress in two rows, trim the sides with cépes sautéd ala Provengale (No. 2723) and the ends 
with oval shaped rabbit croquettes decorated with truffles; a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) 
with Madeira should be served in a tureen. 


(2146), FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS WITH CURRANT SAUCE (Filets de Lapereaux Sauce 
aux Groseilles). 


Remove the nerves and pare two young rabbit fillets, also the minion fillets; lard them with 
small lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) and marinate for two hours, then strain the marinade and put its 
vegetables on the fire to fry in butter, braise the fillets in this, glaze and dress in a circle. Break 
up the bones and cook them in butter, adding a little flour; with this make a small roux (No.163), 
season it with pepper and salt, adding an onion and a bunch of garnished parsley, moisten with 
boiling port wine, reduce and strain through a sieve, boil it up again and despumate well adding 
some currant jelly, dissolving it slowly in the sauce; strain the whole through a tammy and pour 
a part of it under the meats, serving the remainder separately. The fillets can be roasted instead . 
of braised if so desired. 


(2146), FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS WITH ARTICHOKE OR MUSHROOM PUREE (Filets de 
Lapereaux & la Purée d’Artichauts ou de Champignons). 


Raise the fillets and minion fillets; divide the larger ones in two or three pieces, then pare 
each one and make a deep incision on one side; season this and stuff it with cooked fine herbs 
(No. 385) mingled with a well-reduced half-glaze sauce (No. 413); bread them English style (No. 
13), and broil over a slack fire. Dress in a circle filling the center with a purée of mushrooms (No. 
722) or artichokes bottoms (No. 704) and serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced 
with fumet of rabbit (No. 397). Instead of stuffing the whole inside, one side only need be filled, 
after sautéing the fillet on one side, mask it with raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), then dip in 
eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter to a fine color; serve the same as the above. 


(2147), GIBELOTTE OF RABBITS (Gibelotte de Lapins), 


Cut clean fine tame rabbits in pieces, put them into a vessel to season and marinate for a couple 
of hours with onions, parsley, and vinegar. Melt some chopped up fat pork in a pan; add to it a 
quarter of a pound of cut up bacon, fry and drain this off. Put the rabbit meats into the same pan 
and fry over a good fire, bestrew with a spoonful of flour, and moisten to their height with one- 
third of white wine, and two-thirds of stock (No. 194a); boil up the liquid, then transfer the stew 
into a saucepan to let cook slowly until partly done; strain the sauce, pare the meats and return 
them to the same saucepan with the bacon, a clove of garlic, a garnished bunch of parsley, and 


662 THE EPICUREAN. 


two dozen small onions browned in a pan; continue to boil all together. At the expiration of a 
quarter of an hour, put in fifteen to twenty fresh mushrooms, and seven or eight minutes later, 
dress the meats on a dish with the garnishings around, if there be too much sauce, reduce its, 

strain it over the stew, and surround with ea bread-crusts cut into triangles, and browned in. 


butter. 


(2148), GIBELOTTE OF YOUNG RABBITS, PARMENTIER (Gibelotte de Lapereaux Parmentier), 


After disjointing two young rabbits, wash them in plenty of cold water to extract all the blood,, 
wipe on a cloth drying them at the same time, then fry in butter to stiffen; add two tableapean tua: 
of flour, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and half a clove of crushed garlic; moisten with half a bottle- 
ful of white wine, and some stock (No. 194a), keeping the sauce rather thick, now throw in a garnished: 
bunch of parsley (No. 123), and some mushroom parings. Let cook for three-quarters of an hour, 
skim the fat from the top, drain off the pieces of rabbit, and pare each one, then put them aside in a, 
saucepan to keep hot with a few spoonfuls of the sauce. Now reduce the remainder of it to re- 
semble a thick velouté sauce (No. 415), and thicken it with a liaison of four egg-yolks; strain it 
through a tammy, and place it in a bain-marie. When prepared to serve, dish up the pieces of 
rabbit, and garnish around with olive-shaped potatoes cooked in stock (No. 194a) and a pound of 
cooked mushrooms; add to the sauce kept warm, a heavy pinch of chopped parsley, and two shallots. . 
blanched and chopped; also two spoonfuls of olive oil and the juice of a lemon; pour it over the: 
rabbit. 


(2149), WILD RABBIT BACKS, BROILED (Rables de Lapins de Garenne Grillés) 


Pare the backs of three field rabbits, skinned and cleaned; suppress the breasts, then season;, 
dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and immerse in melted butter; broil for twenty 
minutes over a moderate fire while turning. Dress on a dish and serve with a separate sharp: 
sauce (No. 538), or else a tartar sauce (No. 631). 


(2150), RAIL A LA MAREILLE—ROASTED AND BROILED (Rale Réti et Grillé & la Mareille) 


A species of bird belonging to the grallic order; they are in great demand on account of the. 
delicacy of their meats, especially in the fall season. There are two kinds, the water rail and the. 
land rail; the latter being the best. 


Ala Mareille.—Pick, draw, singe, and truss six rails, carefully remove all their pin feathers,, 
then stuff them with the following dressing: Chop six ounces of chicken livers with as much fresh. 
fat pork, both to be chopped separately; mix all together, then season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and chopped truffles, mushrooms, and parsley; cook in a brisk oven, and afterward dress on hollow 
crusts fried in butter garnished with forceemeat and poached in the oven; serve a Bigarade sauce. 
(No. 435) separately. 


Roasted.—Prepared the same as the are without any dressing; roast in a hot oven, and. 
dress on crotittons of bread fried in butter, and covered with aie forcemeat (No. 78); pour 
clear gravy (No. 404) over, and serve with currant jelly. : 


Broiled.—Split the rails, cook and dress the same as the English snipe (No, 2157). 


(2151), REED BIRDS, BROILED (Mésanges Moustaches Grillées), 
Split them through the back, remove the intestines, pare and season; place them in a hinged: 
broiler, cook lightly on the opened side‘and finish cooking on the other side; a few moments. 


should suffice. Dress one resting-on the other intercalated with toasts; spread over a be maitre. 
@hotel butter (No. 581). 


(2152), REED BIRDS, ROASTED (Mésanges Moustaches Roties), 


Remove the gizzards and the pouch from the birds; cut off the legs halfway, singe and cover- 
with bards of fat pork pared very thin; thrust small skewers through, and spread the birds with: 





Fie. 404, 


a spare layer of softened butter; roast them for seven to eight minutes at a brisk fire, salt 
over when unwrapping and dress on buttered and browned crusts. Serve with sliced lemon. 





ot GAME, oo." 663 


(2153), SNIPE—ENGLISH—AFRICAN STYLE (Bécassines Anglaises & l’Africaine), 


_ Divide six snipe in two parts, beat, pare and place them in a sautoir with melted butter; cook the 
intestines and some chicken livers in butter with half as much grated fat pork, two ounces of 
bread-crumbs and half a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), pass it through a sieve and incorporate 
into it a few spoonfuls of chopped truffles; fill some hollowed out half heart-shaped croaitons 
with this preparation, cover with slices of fat pork and poach in the oven. Sauté the snipe and 
when done lay on top of the crofitons and cover with espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with 
game fumet (No. 397); serve an African sauce (No. 424) separately. 
Dowich snipe are prepared the same as English snipe. 


(2154), SNIPE—ENGLISH—A LA MONTALAND (Bécassines Anglaises 4 la Montalang), 


Truss twelve very clean snipe, roast them on the spit or in the oven, leaving them quite rare; 
lift off the breasts. Fry the intestines and livers in butter, season with salt and pepper; cut off 
all the leg meats and pound them with the fried intestines, then press through a sieve. Reduce 
half a pint of champagne with two finely minced shallots, also some truffles, mushrooms, chopped 
parsley, mignonctte and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), add to it the pounded meats, a spoon- 
ful of olive oil and the juice of alemon. Dress the snipe on half heart crofitons covered with 
foies-gras, and pour the sauce over. 


(2155), SNIPE—ENGLISH—A LA WALESKI (Bécassines Anglaises 4 la Waleski), 


Bone the backs of twelve snipe. Put into a basin three ounces of bread-crumbs, half a pound 
of unmelted butter, two chopped and blanched shallots, some chopped mushrooms, finely cut up 
chives, salt, pepper, nutmeg and brandy; stuff the birds with this dressing and lay them in but- 
tered bottomless oval molds the same size as themselves, then cook in a brisk oven. Prepare some 
foundation paste (No. 135), croustades the same shape and size as the snipe, and when baked and 
emptied fill them with delicate game cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach in a slack oven and dress ina 
eircle on a hot dish; lay a snipe on every croustade, glaze over and fasten on one end a well 
cleaned head, the eyes formed of forcemeat and around of truffles; cover with brown Madeira 
sauce (No. 492) and game glaze (No. 389). 


(2156), BAKED SNIPE (Bécassines au Gratin), 


Singe and bone twelve snipe leaving on the feet only as far as the phalanges, add a few chicken 
livers to the livers and intestines. Fry in butter, also one shallot, mushrooms, truffles and parsley 
all finely chopped, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, set this aside to cool, then poundi 
“thoroughly. Pound a third as much panada (No. 121), add little by little six raw egg-yolks and 
_ the preparation; when thoroughly pounded, press the whole through a sieve and use half of it to 
- fill the snipes, sew them up, truss and cover with fat pork; wrap them in paper and cook in the 
oven from.ten to twelve minutes; when done, untie, untruss and lay them in a circle on a dish 
covered with the remainder of the forcemeat; fill the center with truffles, olives and mushrooms, 
cover with thick allemande sauce (No. 407), bestrew bread-crumbs and grated cheese on top and: 
brown in a moderate oven. 


(2157), BROILED SNIPE (Bécassines Grillées), 


Split the snipe lengthwise through the back, cut off the legs, pare nicely and thrust the beak 

through one of the breasts (see broiled woodcock No. 2204), season, coat with oil and broil over 

a good fire, dress on slices of toast and pour some maitre-d’hotel butter (No. 581) over; serve 
very hot. 


(2158), ENGLISH SNIPE IN PAPERS (Bécassines Anglaises en Papillotes). 


Cut six snipe in two lengthways, pare, beat lightly, season and toss them to stiffen both sides. 
Fry in butter some shallots, raw mushrooms, truffles and parsley all finely chopped, add a few 
spoonfuls of espagnole sauce (No. 414), besides this fry the intestines with a few chicken livers, 
season, pound and press through a sieve; put this pulp in with the cooled off fine herbs and divide 
the preparation in twenty-four parts using one of them to cover the inside of each halt snipe. Cut 
some sheets of paper into hearts, oil, and on one side lay a half snipe, over a laver of grated fat. 


664 THE EPICUREAN. 


pork and cover with the remainder of the preparation, fold the paper, crimp it all around ta 
enclose properly the birds and dress each one on a small oval dish intended for the table, heating 
and browning them on this. When of a fine color and swollen considerably, remove from tite 
oven; serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397). 


(2159), SNIPE, ENGLISH, ROASTED (Bécassines Anglaises Roties), 


Pick, singe, remove the gizzard and pouch and truss the snipe thrusting the feet inside; cover 
the breast with a very thin slice of fat pork and cross over this as well as the joint of the thick 
part of the leg with the beak. Roast them from six to eight minutes, dress on slices of toast, pour 
the gravy over and garnish with water-cress. 


(2160), SNIPE STUFFED, BORDELAISE (Bécassines Farcies, Bordelaise), 


Clean the birds well, draw, remove the gizzard and pouch and chop up the intestines, mix in 
with them as much grated fat pork, some parsley, chives, salt and pepper; fill the snipe with this 
dressing and roast them in the oven; dress them on hollowed out bread crusts fried in butter and 
filled with marrow Bordelaise (No. 436). . 


(2161), SAND SNIPE ROASTED WITH WATER-ORESS (Petites Bécassines de Sable Roties au 
Cresson), 


Pick and singe a dozen sand snipe without drawing them; cover with very thin small slices of 
fat pork, and run a thin hatelet or skewer into them one after the other. Lay them on a baking 
sheet, pour good fat over and roast in a quick oven; when done salt and dress in pairs on bread 
crotitons, three inches long by one anda half wide covered over with butter; pour over some clear 
gravy (No. 404) and decorate with water-cress. Serve. 


(2162). THRUSHES ANDRIEUX (Grives Andrieux), 


A bird similar to the blackbird with speckled plumage; its meat is very succulent. Bone the 
the backs of eight well-cleaned thrushes, leaving on the breastbone and legs; season the meats and 
fill the insides with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Enclose 
the dressing, sew and truss the birds for an entrée (No. 178). Line a low saucepan with bards of 
fat pork, put over bottomless oval molds three inches long, two wide and half an inch high, place 
a thrush in each of these rings. Cut up some ham, veal, carrots and onions in three-eighths of an 
inch squares, place them around the birds, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay 
leaf, cover with a round piece of strong buttered paper, moisten with a little stock (No. 194a) and 
Madeira and reduce the liquid till dry, then remoisten with broth and let boil. Close well the 
saucepan and push it into a moderate oven, leaving it there until the birds are nearly done, then 
untruss and glaze toa fine color; return them to another saucepan with a little braise stock to keep 
hot until ready to serve. Prepare some croustades with foundation paste (No. 185); in oval 
molds three and a quarter inches long, two and an eighth wide and three-quarters of an inch 
high. Strain the stock, skim off the fat and reduce with the same quantity of espagnole sauce 
@No. 414), and a gill of good Madeira into which has been infused a piece of Ceylon cinnamon; 
take a third part of this sauce to serve separately at the same time as the thrush and to the other 


two-thirds add some truffles and escalops of cooked duck’s liver; fill the croustades with this, drain 
the birds, glaze over and lay them on top, then serve. 


(2163), THRUSHES A LA BIANCA (Grives & la Bianca), 


Have as many birds as guests; pick, singe and remove the gizzard, pouch and intestines and 
fill the inside of each one with Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies, finishing to fill up the 
empty space with lightly melted fresh butter.. Cut as many oval crofitons as there are birds, hav- 
ing them three inches long by one and three-quarters wide and halt an inch thick; slit them all 
around aquarter of an inch high and three-sixteenths of an inch from the edge; take out the inside 
and place a bird in this hollow; lay them in a sautéing pan the bottom covered with a bed of clari- 
fied butter and put it on the hot fire; as soon as the butter is well heated push it into the oven and 
after the crofitons are colored and the thrushes well cooked, take them out and drain them from 
the butter on a cloth, then range in a circle on a dish and fill the inside with a garnishing made of 


minced mushrooms and truffles mingled with half-glaze (No. 400), a tablespoonful of good olive oil 
and the juice of half a lemon; pour this sauce over all and serve. 


GAME. 665 


(2164), BAKED THRUSHES (Grives au Gratin), 


Have some well-cleaned thrushes, bone keeping on the legs; season the meats, and 
in each bird set a ball of forcemeat made with quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and foies-gras from 
a terrine, half of each. Truss and fry in butter with a bunch of.parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf; drain off the butter, moisten with a little Madeira and stock (No. 194a), and reduce 
the moisture entirely while cooking slowly. Range a layer of game quenelle forcemeat mixed with 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385) on a dish; this layer should be seven inches in diameter by three- 
quarters of an inch high; place the dish on a baking-pan containing a little boiling water and poach 
the forcemeat in a slack oven. Dress the thrushes on this forcemeat, the breasts lying toward the 
outer edge and the legs in the center; cover the birds with well reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) 
into which mix a little game glaze (No. 398), and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); bestrew with par- 
mesan, pour over melted butter, and brown ina hot oven or salamander (Fig. 123). Serve sepa- 
rately a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with white wine and mushroom essence (No. 392). 


(2165), THRUSHES IN THE SAUCEPAN (Grives & la Casserole), 


Pick and singe one dozen thrushes; remove the gizzard and pouch without drawing them, 
truss for roasting and fry in butter in an earthenware saucepan over a brisk fire. When done 
remove them from the saucepan, untruss and dress in a circle on a hot dish, the legs lying inwards; 
add to their stock a little game glaze (No. 398), some clear gravy (No. 404), the juice of a lemon, 
and a small pinch of chopped parsley. Pour the sauce over the birds, and serve. 


(2166). THRUSHES AND ROBINS, ROASTED AND BROILED (Grives ou Rouges Gorges Rotis ou 
Grillés), 


Pick, draw, and singe six thrushes or robins; stuff them with forcemeat made of four ounces 
of lean cooked ham cut in dice, and as much finely chopped sausage meat; put this into a sautoir 
on a bright fire'to cook, when cool add four ounces of truffles, and the same of foies-gras, cut in 
three-sixteenths of an inch squares; mix in six ounces of thick and well-reduced allemande 
sauce (No. 407). Truss the bird as for an entrée (No. 178), cover the breast with a grape leaf, and 
on this place a thin layer of fat pork;. cook on the spit or ina quick oven, untruss and dress on 
canapés with the following gravy poured around: Fry two bay leaves in butter with one chopped 
shallot, salt, pepper, and fine herbs, add\half a pint of white wine, and a little stock (No. 194a); 
let boil and simmer, then put in some game glaze (No. 398), and minced mushrooms; when 
ready the bay leaves should be removed. 

For Broiling.—Prepare and broil the thrushes the same as quails (No. 2128), only not allowing 
them to cook quite as long; dress and serve the same. 


(2167). VENISON. ANTELOPE. DEER (Chevreuil, Antilope. Daim). 


The animal should be chosen at the age of eighteen months to two years and a half, in order 
to have it savory and tender. The flesh is then excellent, however its quality depends principally 
upon its place of abode. Those with brown hair are better than those with red. Males over three 
years of age are unfit to eat in certain months of the year. 

The meats of the kid or doe are also excellent after they have attained the age of nine or ten 
months. The parts generally used are those from the saddle, leg, baron (see mutton, Fig. 334, for 
the cuts), quarter, haunch, hip, cutlets and the racks from the fifth rib by the neck as far down as 
the tenderloin, the shoulders, tenderloins and breast. The saddle tenderloin and rack are larded. 
The haunch and quarters are marinated from two to ten days and are also larded, but if very 
fresh and tender venison is eaten without being marinated. 


(2168), LOIN OF DEER, OHERRY SAUCE (Longe de Daim, Sauce aux Cerises), 


The loin is the part of the deer beginning at the thick loin end and reaching as far as the first 
rib; remove the skin from the sirloin and put the meat into an earthen dish with a quart of 
vinegar and two gills of water, should the vinegar be too strong; adding whole peppers, salt, bay 
leaf, thyme and parsley leaves. Leave it to marinate for several days, then lard with medium 
lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); lay it it in a baking pan, and pour over some fat; cook ina hot oven and 
when three-quarters done season with pepper, salt, pour over vinegar, a little broth and gravy; 
wheu done dress and cover with the skimmed stock serving a cherry sauce (No. 447) apart. 


666 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2169). RACK OF VENISON, ROASTED COLBERT SAUCE (Carré de Chevreuil Roti, Sauce: 
Colbert), ! 


Have two racks of venison of seven ribs each, bone, suppress the shine bone (see drawing for 
rack of mutton Fig. 343); remove the skin covering the meat and lard with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 
52); put them into a cold cooked marinade (No. 114) for six hours. Roast, dress on a hot dish, 
pour over the well-skimmed gravy from the dripping pan, to which clear gravy (No. 404) has been | 
added, and surround with Marchioness potatoes (No, 2797) serving a Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


separately. 


(2170), VENISON CUTLETS A LA BURIDAN (Coételettes de Chevreuil & la Buridan), 


Have some well-pared cutlets (see mutton cutlets, No. 1590), lard them on one side only 
with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), all on the same side so that the handle is on the right; put 
them in cold marinade for three hours. Make some coffeespoon quenelles (No. 155) with young 
rabbit and game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), poach in boiling water and drain. Sauté the cutlets 
in butter, drain it off and replace it by a little game glaze (No. 398) and a gill of vinegar to detach 
the glaze from the pan, adding a little brown sauce (No. 414); allow it to boil up once or twice and 
then strain through a sieve and add the quenelles; glaze the cutlets and garnish with paper frills 
(No. 10). Dish up the cutlets in a circle, fill the center with the quenelles, and serve the sauce 
separately. Garnish around with small round croquettes made like croquettes a la trimalcion 
(No. 3016). 


(2171), VENISON OUTLETS A LA CAUCHOISE (Cotelettes de Chevreuil & la Cauchoise). 


Cut and pare some venison cutlets and lay them in a sautéing pan with clarified butter; 
sauté on a brisk fire, then remove from the pan, keeping them warm; detach the glaze with a little 
white wine and poivrade sauce (No. 523), roll the cutlets in this to have them well covered, take 
out and trim the handles; range them in a circle and fill the center with some cream of game 
(No. 2240), and all around with a garnishing made of cabbage purée, mingled with egg-yolks and. 
velouté sauce, then poached in mousseline mold (No. 4, Fig. 188). 


(2172), VENISON OUTLETS A LA FINANCIERE (Oételettes de Chevreuil & 1a Financiare), 

Prepare some venison cutlets the same size as those of mutton (No. 1590); lard them on one 
side only, but all on the same side, with the handles on the right; put them intoa buttered sautoir with 
the larded side uppermost and cook them in a hot oven; finally drain off the butter from the sautoir, 
glaze the cutlets with a brush, trim them with paper frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on a low 
venison quenelle forcemeat border; fill the center with a financiere garnishing (No. 667). 


(2173), VENISON CUTLETS, DEVILED (Odtelettes de Chevreuil & la Diable), 

Coat some cutlets with mustard and immerse them in melted butter; roll in bread-crumbs and 
broil. Have some shallots fried in butter and moisten them with a light poivrade sauce (No. 
522) and game glaze (No. 398), adding mushrooms, lean cooked ham cut in small squares and 
chopped parsley. Dress the cutlets crown shape, pour the sauce over and decorate the handle 
bones with frills (No. 10). | 


(2174), VENISON CUTLETS, TOMATO PARISIAN SAUOE (Odtelettes de Ohevreuil, Sauce Tomat: 


Parisienne), 


Pare some venison cutlets, season with salt and pepper and sauté in clarified butter or oil 
over a brisk fire; when of a fine color and sufficiently done, drain off the fat and detach the glaze 
from the pan with a little white wine, adding a little brown sauce (No. 414) and meat glaze (No. 
402). Dress the cutlets after trimming them with paper frills (No. 10) intercalating them with. 
half heart-shaped crofitons and pour the sauce in the center; serve a tomato Parisian sauce (No. 
550) separately. 


(2175), VENISON OUTLETS WITH OHESTNUT PUREE (Oételettes de Chevreuil & la Purée de 


Marrons), 


Pare some venison cutlets the same as mutton cutlet No. 1590, season with salt and dip in oik 
or melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs, equalize the surfaces and broil to a fine color, trim the 
handles and dress in a circle, filling the center with a consistent and mellow chestnut purée (No. 
712); serve with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira and game fumet (No, 397). 


GAME. s 667 


(2176). EPIGRAMMES OF ROEBUOK, MARINADE SAUCE WITH TRUFFLES (Cpigrammes de 


Chevreuil, Sauce Marinade aux Truffes), 


Pare some roebuck cutlets, put them into a deep dish and season with salt, pepper, mignonette,. 
thyme, bay leaf, parsley leaves, olive oil and lemon juice. Prepare a game quenelle forenmeat 
(No. 91) with half venison and half rabbit meat, lay eight half heart-shaped bottomless molds 
they being three and a half inches long by two wide and half an inch high, on sheets of patered 
paper, fill them with the quenelle forcemeat and poach lightly in a slack oven; as soon as 
sufficiently done to bread-crumb, remove, unmold and dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs 
smoothing this with the blade of a knife. Just when prepared to serve, drain the cutlets, mips 
and sauté them in butter, fry the quenelles to a fine color, then drain off the cutlets, trim them. 
with paper frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on a hot dish, alternating them with the quenelles: 
(they to be arranged with the pointed ends uppermost), pour a little marinade sauce (No. 496) 
with Madeira into the bottom of the dish and serve a sauce-boat of the same, mingling into. 
it three tablespoonfuls of truffles cut in one-eighth inch squares. 


(2177). DEER OR ROEBUOK FILLETS A LA LORENZO (Filets de Daim ou de Chevreuil & la 


Lorenzo), 


Pare two minion fillets of a deer or a roebuck; suppress the superficial skin covering them and 
marinate for five or six hours in a little cooked marinade (No. 114), drain, lard the entire upper: 
surface with lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52), range them on a small buttered baking pan, one beside 
the other, cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour, until well 
done. Remove and cut them into slightly bias slices, and dress either in a straight row or else in. 
a circle, and fill the sides or inside with braised chestnuts (No. 654), stuffed Spanish olives (No. 
695), mushroom heads, round, medium truffles and large capers; cover with a Pignola Italian 
sauce (No. 520) and game glaze (No. 398) and trim around with potato croquettes (No. 2782). 


(2178), ROEBUCK—HAUNOH OR QUARTER—A LA BOUCHARD (Hanche ou Quartier de Chev- 
reuil & la Bouchard), 


Suppress all the nerves from a good haunch of venison; lay it in a cold cooked marinade (No. 
114), for two days, then drain, pare it on the kernel end and lard with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), 
range it on the cradle spit (No. 116) and let roast before a good fire from three-quarters of an hour 
to an hour. Dressand garnish around with stuffed peppers and rissoles of brain, Princetown (No. 
947), mixed with a chopped sauce (No. 539), serving pimentade sauce (No. 521) separately. 


(2179), ROEBUCK—HAUNOH OR QUARTER—A LA LYTTON (Hanche ou Quartier de Chevreuil 
a la Lytton), 


Choose a very fat haunch of roebuck; bone the thick loin end, sprinkle salt over, and coat the 
surfaces with butter: wrap it up in buttered paper, then in a flat of paste made with three pounds. 
of flour into which is added an ounce of salt, three eggs, and just sufficient water to form a very 
firm dough; place this in a wet cloth, and leave it for several hours, then roll it out to an eighth of 
an inch in thickness; wrap it all around the meat; fasten the two ends and sides by wetting them 
both and have one overlap the other to prevent any fissure whatever, then cover it all with 
buttered paper; lay it on a cradle spit (Fig. 116), or else in a moderate oven in a baking- 
pan. The length of time to cook it depends upon its size; for a medium haunch of venison it 
will take two hours; deer require three hours. Remove the paper, brown the paste nicely, and 
serve with a poivrade sauce (No. 522), finished with currant jelly and cold sour apple marmalade 
(No. 3674). 


(2180), JUGGED VENISON (Civet de Chevreuil) 


To jug venison use the breasts, neck, shoulder, and thick loin end (the shoulder and loin ends. 
are to be larded through the meat with seasoned lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Cut the meats into pieces. 
an inch and a half to two inches square, and for three pounds of it allow six ounces of unsmoked 
bacon cut in quarter-inch dice; fry the whole in butter, and when stiffened dredge with three table- 
spoonfuls of flour; let brown slightly, then moisten with six gills of red wine, and three gills of 
stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, some dry orange 
peel, a whole clove of garlic, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; cook slowly for one hour and a 


668 THE EPICUREAN. 


half, then put in three dozen small onions fried in butter, and three-quarters of a pound of smal! 
mushrooms; skim the fat from the surface, and add two gills of brandy, one gill of Madeira, and 
the strained juice of two lemons, or else three tablespoonfuls of good vinegar. Pile up the meats 
on a dish; season and reduce the sauce, suppress the parsley, and pour it over the meats; surround 
with heart-shaped bread crotitons fried in oil, then serve. 


(2181), VENISON—SLICES OF KERNEL—A LA HUSSARDE (Tranches de Noix de Chevreuil & la 
Hussarde), 
Cut off some slices from the kernel of a haunch, five-eighths of an inch thick; pare into ovals - 
each one to weigh about half a pound, and marinate in cold cooked marinade (No. 114) for two 
hours; sauté them rare in butter, and dress on a hussarde sauce (No. 482). — 


(2182), VENISON—SLICES OF KERNEL—IN PAPERS (Tranches de Noix de Chevreuil en 
Papillotes). 

Pare oval-shaped some slices half an inch thick cut from the kernel of the haunch; they should 
each weigh five ounces after being trimmed; broil them rare, and then wrap in heart-shaped 
sheets of oiled paper; on top of each slice lay a thin slice of fat pork, and over this some well sea- 
soned and thick Duxelle (No. 385), then close the paper, crimp it all around, and lay them ona 
buttered dish that can be placed in the oven; and on which they should be served; push it in the 
oven for a few moments to serve when a fine color. 


(2183), ROBBUCK, LEG OF, A LA FRANCATELLI (Guissot de Chevreuil & la Francatelli). 


Have a leg of roebuck weighing about ten pounds; pare and lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 
52), and marinate for six hours in cold cooked marinade (No. 114); then roast in the oven, bast- 





Fie. 405. 


ing frequently with melted butter while cooking, this operation taking about an hour and a half 
to an hour and three-quarters; salt. Dress, garnish around with bouchées (No. 11) filled with 
chestnut purée (No. 712). Serve a venison sauce (No. 556) in a sauce-boat. Hand around currant 
jelly the same time as the meat. 


(2184), MINCED VENISON (Emincé de Chevreuil), 


Cut a piece of cooked saddle of venison into even-sized slices; pare and range them in a small 
sautcir. Reduce the value of two gills of half-glaze sauce (No. 418), incorporating into it a few 
spoonfuls of the venison gravy and a few spoonfuls of raw cream; when this sauce becomes succu- 
lent, finish it with a dash of good vinegar and pour it over the slices of venison. Heat these meats 
well over a slow fire without allowing the sauce to boil and baste frequently with the same. 
Dress the stew the same as for minced partridge (No. 2090), either inside a border or else on a dish, 
and surround with fried Villeroi quenelles (No. 783) or crusts of bread hollowed out and filled in 
with a cooked salpicon of truffles; strain the sauce over. This mince may also be surrounded 
with stuffed Spanish olives (No. 695). 


(2185). SADDLE OF ANTELOPE, HUNTRESS STYLE (Selle d’Antilope % la Chasseresse), 


Procure a fine thick saddle of antelope; raise the sirloin from one part, remove the skin and lard 
with small lardons (No.3, Fig.52); lift up the minion fillets, suppress their sinews and score with large 
slices of truffles; pare the remainder of the meat and chop it up with as much fat pork, season with 
mixed spices (No. 168) and add two eggs. Make a stock with the parings and bones of the ante- 
lope. Marinate the sirloin and minion fillets and cook them in a brisk oven. Make small balls with 


GAME. 669 


the chopped meats; bread-crumb, English style (No. 13), and bake them in a slow oven; reduce some 
espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira with the prepared stock, and when a consistent sauce is 
obtained, put in the meat balls, whole chestnuts and stuffed olives (No. 395). Prepare a bread 
crouton five inches wide, eight long and two anda half high; hollow it out lengthways on both 
ends and on each side form semicircles two inches in diameter; carve the crofitons nicely, fry 
in butter, and fasten firmly toa dish. Cut the sirloin up lengthwise on the bias, lay the pieces 
in the hollow and the minion fillets in the center. Fasten a skewer garnished with cocks’-combs 
and kidneys and crawfish in the middle, and one on each of the two ends, and around with 
croustades garnished with the above prepared garnishing. Serve a huntress sauce (No. 481) 
with the meat. 


(2186), SADDLE OF VENISON A L'ATHALIN (Selle de Chevreuil & 1’Athalin), 


For cutting up a venison saddle see Fig. 322. Pare a saddle of venison, removing the skin 
covering the sirloin; lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52) across the grain of the meat and marinate 
for twelve hours in cold cooked marinade (No. 114). Put it ina baking pan with bards of fat 
pork on top and the marinade; pour butter over and when half cooked baste with more butter 
and besprinkle with flour. Set the parings into a sautoir with a stalk of celery, onions containing 
cloves and a bunch of parsley garnished with garlic, thyme and bay leaf; moisten with red wine 
and stock (No. 194a), boil and simmer for one hour, then thicken lightly with a little kneaded 
’ butter (No. 579); remove the saddle from the roasting pan and pour in some gravy (No. 404) to 
detach the glaze, then add it to the sauce and strain the whole through a tammy, skim off the fat 
and place a third of the sauce on a dish, dressing the saddle on top; serve the remainder 
separately in a sauce-boat and some currant jelly on a plate. 


(2187), SADDLE OF VENISON A LA MACMAHON (Selle de Ghevreuil & la MacMahon), 


Pare and marinate a saddle the same as for a |’Athalin (No. 2186). One hour before dinner 
drain and roast it in the oven, and when done skim off the fat and put in half a pint of the 
marinade and as much raw cream; reduce the sauce, cut some medium-sized apples in quarters, 
range them in a liberally buttered sautoir, bestrew with a little powdered sugar and pour butter 
over, place in the oven, and when cooked dress the saddle, glaze and pour over a little gravy (No. 
404); range the apples on each side and serve the sauce separately. 


(2188), SADDLE OF VENISON & LA MORTON (Selle de Chevreuil & la Morton). 


Pare, lard and roast a saddle of venison; as soon as it is done cut off the tenderloin and replace 
it without deforming the meat, then pour over a little gravy (No. 404) and garnish around with 
macaroni croquettes, glazed turnips, fried Jerusalem artichokes, boiled white beans and boiled 
potato balls three-quarters of an inch in size ; serve currant jelly apart, also a poivrade sauce (No. 
§22) having a little Worcestershire added and the whole stirred with some maitre d’hotel butter 
(No. 581), when ready to serve. 


(2189), SADDLE OF VENISON, TYROLESE STYLE (Selle de Chevreuil 4 la Tyrolienne’. 


Prepare and roast the saddle the same as the one with currant jelly (No. 2193); detach the 
glaze from the pan with a little port wine, a small quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414), a nd into 
it put as much currant jelly, then strain through a fine sieve. Lay the meat on a long dish, pour 
some good gravy (No. 404) over and surround with tartlets of sour apple marmalade covered 
with puff paste parings (No. 146); serve the sauce apart. 


(2190). SADDLE OF VENISON—LARDED—AIGRELETTE SAUCE (Selle de Chevreuil 4 la Sauce 
Aigrelette). 


Lard the saddle the same as explained for saddle with currant sauce (No. 2193), put it in 
a dish, the minion fillet side uppermost and the larded side underneath, season with mignonette, 
cloves, garlic, vinegar, onions, thyme, bay leaf and lemon juice; after it has been steeping for six 
hours, remove and roast it in the oven or on a spit and dress on a hot oval dish; serve an 
aigrelette sauce (No. 544) separately. 


670 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2191), SADDLE OF VENISON, GASTRONOME (Selle de Chevreuil, Gastronome), 


Trim and lard a saddle of venison; lay it in a baking pan covered with slices of fat pork, 
<arrots, onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; moisten with white 
wine and stock (No. 194a) and cook in the oven, basting at frequent intervals with white melted 
butter; when done and of a fine color cut it up lengthways of the meat and reconstruct it 
as before, strain the stock, remove all the fat and reduce, add Marsala wine, serve the sauce sepa 
rately. Garnish the ends with mushrooms or cépes and olives stuffed with: anchovies, and gas. | 
tronome potatoes (No. 2789) at the ends. Serve also a Colbert sauce (No. 451) with the meat. 


(2192), SADDLE OF VENISON—BREADED—BLACK CHERRY SAUCE (Selle de Chevreuil Panée 
Sauce aux Cerises Noires), 


Instead of larding the saddle, it can be breaded when three-quarters cooked by sprinkling over 
with white bread-crumbs or pumpernickel; pour on some butter and brown in a hotoven. A black 
cherry sauce (No. 447) seasoned with cinnamon accompanies this. 


(2193), SADDLE OF VENISON, PORT WINE SAUCE AND CURRANT JELLY (Selle de Chevreuil 
& la Sauce Oporto et & la Gelée de Groseilles), 


Cut the saddle from a roebuck the same as a saddle of mutton, leaving one rib adhere to the 
end of the loin on both sides; remove the haunch, cutting it off rounded or straight, while crassing 
the thick loin end; pare the surplus fat and remove the skin carefully that covers the sirloin: lard 
it with two rows of lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52) inserting them into the meat across the saddle, and the 
entire length of the sirloin. Roast it either on the spit or in the oven, detach the pan, glaza with 
a little gravy (No. 404), strain this through a sieve, skim off the fat and pour it over the saddle. 
Serve separately, but at the same time some currant jelly or port wine, and jelly sauce mele by 

‘issolving the jelly in port wine and thickening it with brown sauce (No. 414). 


(2194), SADDLE OF VENISON—ROASTED (Selle de Chevreuil Rotie), 


Unless the meat is far advanced it is unnecessary to marinate it; simply pare the piece and 
suppress the skin so as to be able to lard the flesh 
with larding pork, either crosswise or lengthwise- with 
lardons. Saddles and quarters of venison are reasted 
either on the spit or in the oven, basting over with 
butter. A small saddle of venison takes forty minutes 
to cook. Roasted venison is served either with a clear 
gravy (No. 404), a brown sauce (No. 414) with Jemon 
juice added, or else a sauce prepared with the stock it was cooked in, mingled with half-glaze 
(No. 400), then reduced with raw cream and finished with lemon juice or a dash of vinegar. 


Or it can also be served with currant jelly dissolved in espagnole sauce (No. 414) and port 
wine. 





(2195), VENISON GRENADINS A LA ROYALE—TENDERLOIN (Grenadins de Filet de Chevrenil 
a la Royale), 


Trim off some grenadins from the minion fillets, each one to weigh five ounces, and pare into 
half hearts; after removing the sinews lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), and marinate 
for twelve hours; dry, wipe and sauté in good hot fat; drain, glaze and dress in a circle, filling the 


center with potato quenelles breaded and fried in clarified butter; serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) 
‘separately. 


(2196), VENISON NOISETTES A LA THIERRY—TENDERLOIN (Noisettes de Filet de Chevreuil & 
3 la Thierry), | 


Cut the tenderloin into slices, each to weigh four ounces when pared and rounded; lay them in 
€ sautoir with melted butter, season with salt, mignonette, a whole clove of garlic and a bay leaf. 
Just before serving place the saucepan on a hot fire and sauté them quickly; lay each noisette on a 
bread crofton fried in butter of the same diameter and a quarter of an inch thick; dress them in a 
circle and in the center have a garnishing of game quenelles made with a coffeespoon (No. 155), 


truffles cut in the shape of crescent olives mixed with espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with game 
essence (No. 389) and Madeira wine. 


GAME. 671 


{2197), VENISON TOURNEDOS ST. HUBERT—TENDERLOIN (Tournedos de Filet de Ohevreuil 
St. Hubert), 


Pare some slices to weigh three ounces each, season and sauté them briskly in a sauté pan 
with butter; drain, wipe, glaze and dress on a bed of soubise purée (No. 723); garnish around 
with Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies. Serve separately a tomato sauce (No. 549), mixed with 
grated horseradish. 


(2198), WOODOOCKS A LA CAVOUR (Bécasses & 1a Cavour), 


Cut six woodcocks in four each and withdraw the intestines, discarding the pouch and gizzard. 
Fry the quartered birds in butter with some truffles, mushrooms and escaloped sweetbreads; 
moisten with a little white wine and season with salt, pepper and finely cut-up chives. Fry also 
the intestines in butter, with the parings, some minced ham, carrots and onions, mushroom parings, 
all well chopped, thyme and bay leaf; wet with a little white wine when cooked, press through 
a tammy and add this pulp to the woodcocks; moisten once more with white wine and a little 
brown sauce (No. 414), despumate well and reduce to a proper degree; dress the meat in a border 
anade of risot (No. 739) and pour the sauce over. 


(2199), WOODCOCKS A LA DUMAS (Bécasses & la Dumas), 


Pick, singe and truss eight woodcocks, put them into a saucepan with fresh butter and fry 
over a brisk fire, adding chopped shallots, salt, pepper and nutmeg. When the birds are cooked 
drain off the fat, add to their stock the juice of one lemon, a quarter of a bottleful of cham- 
pagne and half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce and put in some whole truffles, cocks’- 
combs and kidneys. Diess the woodcocks on some stuffed crusts (No. 51) and place the garnishing 
around. 


(2200), BREASTS OF WOODCOCKS A LA DIANE (Ailes ou Filets de Bécasses & la Diane), 


Raise the breasts from six well-cleaned woodcocks, remove all the sinews and skin and stiffen 
them while heating in a little butter; place them under a light weight. Make a dressing with the 
intestines, removing the gizzard and pouch, adding a little chicken liver and grated fat pork, chopped 
parsley and seasoning; fill some hollow crusts with this, pour butter over and poach ina slack 
oven; on each crust. lay a woodcock breast brushed with game glaze (No. 398), then dress them 
in a circle, stick either a whole or half head in each crotton and fill the center with olive-shaped 
game quenelles (Fig. 83); cover with brown Périgord sauce (No. 516). 


(2201), BREASTS OF WOODOCOOKS A LA HOUSTON (Ailes ou Filets de Bécasses 3 1a Houston), 


Fry quickly in butter six breasts of woodcocks previously cleaned, singed, and seasoned; as soon 
as cooked, drain them off. Cook the small part of the intestines before pounding and rubbing 
them through a sieve. Prepare a little game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), mix in with it an equal 
‘quantity of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), and the pounded intestines. With this preparation 
fill a smooth buttered border mold (Fig. 139), having the bottom rounded, and poach it in a bain- 
marie. Take a part of the woodcock carcasses, to make a good fumet (No. 397), and after it 
has been strained and the fat removed, incorporate it into a good brown sauce (No. 414) while re- 
ducing, also a few spoonfuls of Madeira. When the sauce has attained succulence, strain it over 
the woodcock breasts, and keep them in a bain-marie. Fry quickly in a frying-pan, with oil and 
melted butter, half a pound of peeled truffles cut in slices or in large shreds, season and drain off 
the fat, pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine, and reduce; then add it to the prepared breasts, 
and dress the whole in the inside of the border, unmolded, on a hot dish. 


(2202). BREASTS OF WOODOOCKS A LA MANOELLE (Ailes ou Filets de Bécasses & la Mancelle), 


First clean and singe six woodcocks, then roast them; remove all the breast part, and cut off 
the remainder of the meat to pound with the same quantity of rice; obtain a purée, and combine 
it with a little espagnole (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397). Cut some thin slices of 
foies-gras, pare them into ovals, and dip in flour, then fry in butter; dress the fillets alternating 
them with the slices of foies-gras; pour into the bottom of the dish a little espagnole sauce (No. 
414) reduced with woodcock fumet (No. 397) and Madeira wine, and to the remainder of the 
sauce add truffles and mushrooms cut in one-eighth inch squares, serving this separately. 


672 THE EBEPICUREAN. 


(2203), BREASTS OF WOODCOCKS A LA VATEL (Ailes ou Filets de Bécasses & la Vatel), 


Raise the breasts from six fine woodcocks, remove the skin and sinews, and fry them in butter 
over a brisk fire. Fill some heart-shaped bottomless molds with a game quenelle 
foreemeat made from the woodcocks’ legs and parings and young rabbit meat; 
poach them slowly in a slack oven, unmold, cool off, and lay on buttered paper, 
coat the tops with woodcock cream forcemeat, made as game cream forcemeat 
(No. 75), and dress the breasts two on each crofton; cover entirely with wood- 
cock cream forcemeat, smooth with a knife, shaping them into hearts, run the 
beak through from side to side between the forcemeat and fillet. Bestrew 
with finely chopped coral sifted through a sieve and imitate a flame with 

nbs aed yellow tinted game quenelle forcemeat pushed through a cornet, on which 
place thin fillets of tongue. Pour butter over the whole and push into a moderate oven; when 
removed lay them on top of a sauce made with game fumet (No. 397) and essence of truffles. 
(No. 395), serving a financiére garnishing (No. 667), cut in salpicon (No. 741) apart. 


(2204), BROILED WOODCOCKS (Bécasses Grillées), 


Split the woodcocks lengthwise through the back; open entirely, beat 
lightly, pare, salt, and coat over with oil; broil them over a brisk fire (for they 
must be served quite rare) and when done dress them on oval toasts (No. 51); 
cover entirely with maitre d’h6tel butter (No. 581), and serve very hot, 
surrounding the toast with sliced lemon (No. 118). 





(2205). WOODOOCKS ON CANAPES A LA PERIGORD (Bécasses sur Canapés & 
la Périgord), 





Prepare some bread crofitons three and three-quarter inches long, two and a Fic. 408. 

quarter inches wide and half an inch thick; cut off the four corners and empty an 

oblong square on each side one and three-quarters inch long by one inch wide; from each side of the 
middle remove a half circle an inch in diameter; hollow out the center so that when the bird is. 
dressed it can stand upright on it; fry these in butter and empty the slit. Chop up some woodeock 
intestines with as much grated fat pork and as much chicken liver, season with salt and pepper 
and add chopped parsley, a little game glaze (No. 398) and a few egg-yolks, fill the hollowed out 
spaces on each end of the crotiton (Fig. 41) with this, forming it into dome shape on top and 
push into the oven with butter poured over. Cook some pieces of. truffle with grated fat pork, 
salt, pepper and fine spices (No. 168) and have it get cold. First begin by picking, singeing and 
cleaning the birds well; withdraw the gizzard, pouch and intestines; stuff the birds with the truffles 
and truss well for roasting and inserting the beak into the breast aperture; wrap in thin slices of 
fat pork, tying on with three rounds of string; roast for ten minutes and dress on the center of the 
crotitons; serve these with a Madeira half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of truffles (No. 395). 


(2206), WOODCOCKS ROASTED (Bécasses Roties), 


Woodcocks can be roasted with their intestines or else drawn; the gizzard and pouch must 
always be removed, but the necks left on. Singe the birds, 
truss by inserting the beaks through the legs (Fig. 409); 
lard over and lay them on the spit, roast for twelve to. 
sixteen minutes before a bright fire, basting over with 
butter and laying pieces of bread in the dripping pan, 
that is if the birds are not drawn; if they are, then cook 
their intestines separately with melted fat pork and a few 
Fie 409, good chicken livers; finishing them the same as the wood- 
cocks on canapés & la Périgord (No. 2205). After remoy- 
ing the birds from the spit, salt them over, dress on a dish with the crusts and sliced lemon 
placed around; serve some gravy separately. The beak may be sttick in the stomach in front so. 
that in case the bird is cut in two the head will be divided equally. . 


(2207), SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS A LA BEAUMONT (Salmis de Bécasses & la Beaumont), 


Roast five whole woodcocks, remove the intestines and cut each bird into five pieces, suppress. 
all the skin and lay them in a sautoir. Pound the parings and carcasses, place the purée in a 
saucepan with three finely cut up shallots and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf. 
Moisten with a pint and a half of red or white wine or else champagne according to taste; reduce 





GAME. 673. 


to half, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414); let simmer on the side of the range for half ar 
hour, being careful to remove all vestige of fat and scum as fast as it arises to the surface; pass. 
the sauce through a tammy and reduce it to the consistency of a light one, adding some peeled and 
cut up truffles or mushrooms, or even both. Dress the woodcock on a dish and surround with the. 
truffles or mushrooms; garnish around with hollow crusts filled with the intestines, as much chicken 
liver and half as much grated fat pork seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley; then. 
poach in the oven. 


(2208), SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS A LA SANDFORD (Salmis de Bécasses & la Sandford), 


Roast six woodcocks very rare; cut them in four, lift off all the skin and place the birds in am 
alcohol chafing dish; season with salt, pepper, add a little blanched shallot, three gills of wine, the © 
juice of a lemon, a little fresh bread raspings and an ounce and a half of butter; simmer for a few 
moments, then serve. 


(2209), WOODCOCKS STUFFED (Bécasses Farcies), 


Bone three woodcocks, remove the best part of their breast meat and cut these into large dice; lay 
them in a vessel and add an equal quantity of truffles and as much foies-gras; season these meats, and. 
pour over two tablespoonfuls of Madeira. Pound the leg meats with those of three wild pigeons or 
as much of rabbit, adding a third as much panada (No. 121), and four egg-yolks; season and strain this. 
forcemeat. Melt four tablespoonfuls of grated fat pork, add to it the woodcock intestines, also five: 
or six good chicken livers, season highly and leave stand till cold, then strain and mix the forcemeat 
with this, also the meats and truffles laid away in the vessel. Fill the woodcock with this prepa- 
ration, shaping each one to resemblea boned turkey, and wrap a piece of fat pork around; attach 
them firmly in separate pieces of thin muslin, tying it on tight to keep them in proper shape, then 
cook in some good stock on a moderate fire for one hour; leave them in this partly cold, then drain, 
unwrap, and tie them up again tight until thoroughly cold, keeping them in shape, but not under 
the pressure of any weight. Unwrap them half an hour before serving, stand them upright in a 
saucepan with a little of their own stock, reduced to a half-glaze; heat them in a very slack oven, 
basting over frequently, then dress them in a triangle on a forcemeat border, poached in the oven 
and turned out on a dish, having fastened to the center a portion of bread covered with some of 
the foreemeat. Place in the angles the three birds’ heads, sightly cooked and glazed over with a 
brush; fasten three skewers garnished with truffles in the summit of the pad and cover the wood- 
cock, and border lightly over with a brown sauce (No. 414) prepared with the stock and the truffle. 


parings. 








e- 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTRIES 





(2210). BORDER OF CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FILLED WITH CHICKEN BLANQUETTE A LA 
TOULOUSE (Bordure de Farce de Volaille Garnie d’une Blanquette de Poulet & la Toulouse), 


Raise the fillets from six young, fat chickens; roll them in a buttered sautoir. With the leg 
meats prepare a chicken and rice quenelle forcemeat (No. 79). Have a fancy border mold, butter 
it and fill it up with the forcemeat, place this border in a sautoir and poach for half an hour. 





Fia. 410. 


Pare the fillet pieces, sauté them in butter, drain this off and replace it by fat béchamel (No. 
409), and minced truffles added to it; keep it warm in a bain-marie. Trim a dozen truffles into 
round shapes an inch and a quarter in diameter, cook them in a little Madeira, add some meat 
glaze (No. 402), and put into a bain-marie. Unmold the border, dress the chicken blanquette 
in the center. Cover with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766), and on the top of the garnishing 
arrange the prepared truffles. 


(2211), BORDER OF FISH FORCEMEAT A LA DUCHESS WITH CRAWFISH TAILS AND 
MORILS (Bordure de Farce de Poisson & la Duchesse aux Queues dEcrevisses et Morilles), 
Prepare a not too light cream fish forcemeat (No. 76) with some pike meat; also prepare a plen- 
tiful garnishing with good morils blanched and cooked, unshelled crawfish tails, slices from the tails 


of small freshly cooked lobsters, and poached oysters; lay all of these in a flat saucepan, and keep 
covered. Half an hour before serving fill a fancy border mold with the prepared forcemeat, and 





poach for twenty-five minutes in a bain-marie. Besides this put on to reduce three gills of velouté 
sauce (No. 415), incorporating into it slowly a few spoonfuls of good court bouillon (No. 38), and the 
oyster and crawfish broth; when this sauce becomes succulent, strain it over the garnishing, heat 
up without boiling, and finish with a piece of red butter (No. 580). At the last moment turn the 
border over on a hot dish and fill the center with the garnishings, dressing them in a doms 
without any sauce; on this lay four pretty cooked crawfish, having them whole, only the tails 
being shelled; place a small round truffle on the summit, and serve the sauce apart. 
(675) 





676 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2912), BORDER OF RISOT VALENCIENNES (Bordure de Risot Valenciennes), 


Blanch and cook six beef palates in a good mirepoix stock (No.419), drain and leave them to coo? 
under a weight, pare and cut up into large J ulienne; lay these in a sautoir with three gills of Madeira: 
sauce, simmer on a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, and when very tender add half the quantity 




















So) 


Fic. 412. 


of freshly cooked truffles cut like the fillets. Have a good risot prepared with about a half 
pound of Piedmontese rice (No. 739); as soon as done remove and mix in one spoonful of sweet 
Spanish pepper reduced to a pulp; cover the saucepan and keep it for five to six minutes on the- 
side of the range and then finish with butter and grated parmesan; season to taste. With this. 
rice fill a buttered border mold, as shown in the cut, place it for a few moments in the heater to. 
harden, then unmold it on a dish and fill the center with beef palate preparation, serve at once. 


, (2213). BORDER OF RISOT OF LOBSTERS OR SPINY LOBSTERS (Bordure de Risot de Homards: 
ou de Langoustes), | 


Boil two good lobsters or spiny lobsters in a white wine court-bouillon (No. 419), drain, and five: 
to six minutes later detach the tails from the body and keep them warm in a few spoonfuls of their 
liquor. Cook four or five uniform-sized peeled trufiles in Madeira wine, cut them up in broad 
slices of an inch thickness and keep them warm in a saucepan with their own broth that has been 
strained and mixed with a little melted meat glaze (No. 402). With half a pound of good Pied- 
montese rice prepare a risot (No. 739) cooked with plain fish broth (No. 195) and a smail spoonful 
of prepared red pepper (No. 168); as soon as done finish with fine butter and fresh parmesan; mold, 





it in a buttered border mold, as shown in the cut, and keep it slightly warm. Split two lobster bodies,. 
take out all the creamy parts, press through a sieve and lay it aside. Chop half of the shells, fry 
them in oil for a few moments and sprinkle with a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168), then moisten, 
with two or three gills of good court-bouillon and white wine (No. 419); cook slowly for ten to 
twelve minutes, strain the liquid, free it of fat and reduce to a half-glaze; thicken with a gill and 
a half of good tomato sauce (No. 549), and reduce it once more for a few moments, then remove 
from the fire and finish with two spoonfuls of the creamy parts from the bodies, add some 
butter, stir vigorously and lastly put in two or three spoonfuls of the reduced truffle broth. 
Suppress the tail shells hastily, pare the meats, trim off the thin ends and cut all the pieces in not 
too thick slices; lay them in a sautoir and cover with a few spoonfuls of the sauce buttered at the 
very last momet... Unmold the border on a hot dish and in the center place the slices of lobster 


Bnd the truffles in a pyramidical form; pour part of the sauce over, serving what remains in & 
separate sauce-boat. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. oY? 





(2214), ROUDINS OF CHICKEN A L/EGARLATE (Boudins de Volaille & VEcazlate), 


This entrée is dressed on a low rice croustade (Fig. 9a) slightly hollowed on top. First cook two 
small red beef tongues in boiling water with the pared meats taken from a large raw chicken, pre- 
pare a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), keeping it rather firm; season tastily and smooth by working it 
with a spoon, then finish by incorporating in slowly some béchamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with 
_ chopped fresh mushrooms until it becomes succulent and thick, but do not pass it through a sieve. 
After the sauce is well mixed with the forcemeat divide it into seven or eight equal parts and roll 
these into pieces, two anda half inches long and three-quarters of an inch thick, on a floured 
table, press them down a little with the blade of a knife to decrease their thickness. Range these 
boudins as soon as done one beside the other on a lightly buttered raised-edge baking tin and 
‘cover with salted hot water, then heat the liquid until the forcemeat hardens. Drain the boudins 
ou a cloth, pare them evenly and dip them in beaten egg-whites, then in white bread-crumbs. 
_ Now drain the tongues, cut them into lengthwise slices not too thin, and pare them at once, giving 
them an oval shape, then cutting them lengthwise through the center; roll them in a sautoir with 
half-glaze (No. 400) so as to cover them lightly and dress them in a row, alternating each one 
with a boudin; cover these with a little good reduced velouté (No. 415) mixed with a montglas 
composed of chicken with half as many truffles and mushrooms cut in fillets. Surround the base 
with a chain of small round truffles glazed over with a brush. Send to the table at the same time 
a sauce-boat of velouté sauce. 


(2215), BOUDINS OF CHICKEN A LA SOUBISE (Boudins de Volaille & la Soubise), 


Have half a pound of leaf lard chopped up very finely, add to it one ounce of soaked and 
pressed bread-crumbs, pound the two together, then press through a sieve. Put this into a bowl 
with half a pound of raw chicken meat minced very finely, mingle well together and gradually add 
half a pint of soubise onion purée (No. 723), nine raw egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of raw 
truffles (if obtainable), cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, and with this preparation fill some 
ready prepared sheep's casings three inches long and one inch in diameter, not too full, throw them 
into boiling water, remove them almost immediately and prick them with a larding needle, then 
broil them over a very slow fire; serve a soubise sauce (No. 5438) in a separate sauce-boat. 


(£216), BOUDINS OF CHICKEN AU CARDINAL (Boudins de Volaille au Cardinal), 


Prepare a consistent chicken forcemeat (No. 75), cut half of a medium-sized onion into small one- 
eighth inch squares, blanch, refresh and drain, then fry them colorless in butter, stirring continuously; 
drain well and mix this with the forcemeat. Butter sixteen molds the shape of the half of a small 
boudin (this shape is well shown in the quenelles, Fig. 81), three and five-eighths inches long by 
one and three-eighths inches wide. Scatter some finely chopped lobster coral over the insides 
of these molds and fill them up with the forcemeat, leaving an empty space in the center; fill 
this with a salpicon composed of truffles, red beef tongue and mushrooms cut in three-sixteenths 
inch squares and mingled with some well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). After they are . 
teady place eight on top of the other eight, the salpicon to be in the center; twenty minutes 
before serving lay them in a flat saucepan one beside the other, pour some boiling water over 
and poach without boiling, then drain and unmold on a napkin. Dress them in a row on a dish, 
one close to the other, on a lobster sauce (No. 488), buttered with lobster butter (No. 580); serve 
some of the same sauce in a sauce-boat and throw over some chopped lobster coral. 


(2217). BOUDINS OF CHICKEN WITH MONTEBELLO SAUCE (Boudins de Volaille 4 la Sauce 
Montebello), 


Put a pound and a quarter of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into a vessel; smooth and 
mix in a quarter as much salpicon of truffles and cooked foies-gras. Lift the forcemeat with a 
tablespoon and push it with the finger to have it fall on a floured table; roll these pieces into 
sausage shapes, flatten alittle on both sides with the blade of a knife, then range them at once in small 
quantities on a smooth and floured saucepan lid without once handling them. Place a sauté pan 
on the fire with water, salt it when it reaches boiling point, then slide in the boudins, boil up once 
and remove to the side of the range, leaving in the boudins until the forcemeat hardens, then lift 
them out with a skimmer and lay them on a cloth, one next to the other, to wipe and pare lightly. 
Dip them into beaten egg, roll in. fresh white bread-crumbs and place them on the bottom of a 
sautoir with clarified butter to brown both sides while turning them over carefully; drain and dish 


in a circle on a Montebello sauce (No. 502). 


- 


678 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2218), BOUDINS OF GAME A LA BERCHOUX (Boudins de Gibier & la Berchouz), | 


Cook on a slow fire half a pound of chopped leaf lard with a quarter of a pound of chopped 
onions, and let get cold. Have half a pound of cooked and finely chopped game meat and seven 
ounces of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs; pound both of these together and pass through a 
sieve; put it into a bowl and mix in gradually the onions and lard, also two gills of béchamel sauce 
(No. 409), seven raw egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms, and truffles, some salt, 
prepared red pepper (No. 168) andnutmeg. Fill some ready prepared sheep’s casings, three inches 
long and one inch wide, with this preparation—not too full—and plunge them into boiling water; 
prick them with a larding needle, and then broil them over a slow fire. Serve a Berchoux sauce 
(No. 484) separately. 


(2219), BOUDINS OF GAME OR CHICKEN BLOOD A LA VICTORIN (Boudins de Sang de Gibier 
ou de Sang de Volaille 4 la. Victorin), 


Collect a pint of blood either from a hare, rabbit or chicken, stir into it a little vinegar to pre- 
vent coagulation; cut half as much breast of fat pork as there is blood into three-sixteenths of an 
inch squares, fry these in butter with a little chopped onion and mix in the blood, or else fry the 
onion in butter and stir into the blood some cooked veal udder instead of the fat pork, a little 
apple marmalade, and mix together; season well with salt, pepper, a little sugarand cream. With 
this preparation fill some sheep’s casings one inch in diameter; when filled, but not too tight, 
divide them in three-inch lengths, tying the ends; poach, drain and when cold rub them over with 
lard; prick and broil them on a slow fire and serve plain without any sauce. 


(2220). BOUDINS OF KINGFISH A LA PONIATOWSKI (Boudins de Kingfish & la Poniatowski). 


Prepare a quenelle forcemeat of kingfish (No. 90), into which add an eighth of its quantity of 
chopped truffles; roll them into round pieces three-quarters of an inch in diameter and two and 
a half inches long; wrap each one separately in buttered paper, then poach in boiling salted 
water; drain, dip in beaten egg, and fry in clarified butter. Drain and dress on a folded napkin; 
serve a separate sauce-boat of Polish sauce (No. 524). 


(2221), BOUDINS OF SALMON WITH SHRIMPS (Boudins de Saumon aux Crevettes), 


Prepare one pound of fish quenelle forcemeat made with salmon (No. 90). Butter some bou- 
din molds the same as for boudins of chicken au cardinal (No. 2216) and garnish the sides with 
the delicately prepared salmon forcemeat, adding to it four ounces of fresh mushrooms, and two 
ounces of truffles, both cut into eighth of an inch square bits; lay one mold on top of the other, 
and set them in a sautoir close together; pour over boiling water, and put them to poach in a slack 
oven; unmold and dress them on a well-buttered Normande sauce (No. 509). 


(2222), SKEWERS OF CHICKEN LIVERS, COLBERT SAUCE (Brochettes de Foies de Poulet, 
Sauce Colbert). 


Cut up into one-inch squares some chicken livers; season with salt and pepper and run them 
on to metal skewers (Fig. 176), intercalating each piece with a thin one-inch square of bacon; coat. 


over with oil or melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire; dress them on a. 
Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(2223), SKEWERS OF LAMPREYS, MARINADE SAUCE (Brochettes de Lamproies, Sauce 
Marinade), 


Skin a fine lamprey, clean well and cut off the head, also the thin tail end, then divide 
it into quarter-inch pieces; lay these in a tureen with sliced onions, parsley, a clove of garlic, truffle 
peelings, aromatic herbs, allspice, salt and a little brandy, and let macerate for afew hours in a 
cool place, tossing them about at short intervals; when sufficiently steeped drain them off and 
wipe dry; run an iron skewer (Fig. 176) through, alternating each slice with one of fresh, fat salt 
pork. Set these brochettes on a baking sheet, pour a little butter over and cook them in the 
oven, basting frequently with more melted butter. Add to the marinade two gills of brown 
sauce (No, 414), as well as half a pint of stock (No. 194a); remove all scum rising for 
a quarter of an hour while standing it on the side of the range; remove all its fat 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 67S. 


and afterward strain the sauce, pour into it half a glassful of Marsala wine, reduce again for tem 
minutes, keeping it in a bain-marie (Fig. 122). When the pieces of fish are cooked, take them from 
the oven, sprinkle them liberally with salt and dress on a dish, surrounding them with cut-up- 
lemons, and serve the sauce separately. 


(2224), BROCHETTES OF LOBSTERS (Brochettes de Homard), 


Plunge some live lobsters in boiling water just sufficiently long to easily detach the meat from: 
the shells; drain them, and break the tail shells so as to obtain all the meat contained therein; cut 
this up into transversal slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, season them highly with salt and! 
prepared red pepper (No. 168), immerse them in melted butter, and run skewers (Fig. 176) through: 
the pieces, alternating each one with slices of cooked mushrooms; lay them again in butter, and 
broil them over a steady fire for twelve to fourteen minutes. Dress them on a dish, pour over’ 
some Colbert sauce (No. 451); serve very hot. 


(2225), OYSTER BROCHETTES (Brochettes aux Huitres), 


Poach lightly some large oysters in their own liquor, dry them on a cloth, pare, and lay them 
in a deep plate, season and mix them with some fine herbs cooked with truffles (No. 385) and a 
pinch of sweet peppers; cover the oysters with oil, and roll them in this seasoning. Run them one 
by one on small skewers (Fig. 176), alternating each with slices of cooked mushrooms; brush them 
dver with melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs and broil them for six or seven minutes, 
turning them frequently, then dress them at once. 

Brochettes the same as the above are prepared by wrapping each seasoned oyster in a thin 
slice of bacon, or else alternating each oyster with a square of bacon; run the skewers through both. 
and cook them over a hot fire. 


(2226). BROCHETTES OF SWEETBREADS (Brochettes de Ris de Veau), 


Blanch the sweetbreads, suppress the windpipes and fat and place them under a weight to 
reduce to the thickness of an inch; when cold cut them lengthwise 
into slices an inch square; cut these into pieces three-eighths of 
an inch thick; season with salt, pepper, oil and chopped parsley; 
run each square on small silver skewers (Fig. 176), alternating them 
with a thin piece of bacon cut an inch square; besprinkle with white bread-crumbs and broil over a 
slow fire for fifteen to eighteen minutes, having all four sides equally cooked. Dress on a hot dish, 
pour maitre d’hétel butter over (No. 581) and garnish with slices of lemon. 





(2227). CASES A LA MONTGLAS—SMALL (Petites Caisses & la Montglas), 


Cut some chicken fillets into fine Julienne, also truffles and red beef tongue; put on the fire to 
reduce two gills of good espagnole (No. 414), incorporating into it slowly the truffle broth, and afew 
spoonfuls of Madeira and meat glaze (No. 402); it should be succulent and thick, then throw in 
the Julienne, and remove the saucepan at once from the fire, to allow the contents to cool off. 
With some liver baking forcemeat (No. 73), mingled with a little raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), 
line the bottom and sides of about fifteen china cases, making a hole in the center of each; into 
this place a little of the prepared montglas, and cover with more of the forcemeat, smoothing it 
down with the blade of a small knife. Range the cases on a baking sheet containing a little 
hot water and keep them in a slack oven for fifteen to eighteen minutes in order to poach the 
forcemeat and montglas. After removing the cases cover the tops with a layer of Madeira sauce 
(No. 492), and return them to the oven for two minutes to have them attain a glossy appearance. 
Dress in a circle on a folded napkin, garnishing the center with a layer of very green parsley leaves- 


(2228), CASES OF ENGLISH SNIPE A LA GAREME (Caisses de Bécassines Anglaises & la Oaréme). 

Bone nine snipe thoroughly after they have been well-singed and cleaned; fill them with game 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) into which mix a little Madeira and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); lay them 
in oval molds the size of the inside of the paper cases in which they are to be served, and cover with 
slices of fat pork; cook them in the oven for twenty minutes. Oil a sufficient number of paper cases, 
turn them over on to a grater and stiffen in the oven; cover the bottom and sides with delicate 


game forcemeat (No. 75), into which mix some chopped truffles. Lay the unmolded snipe in 


©80 . THE HPICUREAN. 


the center, reconstruct the heads naturally, ‘mitating the eyes with a little white forcemeat, and a 
small round of truffle; push the beak on the neck end leaving only the head protrude, then place 
the casesin a buttered sautoir, cover with a round of buttered paper, and push into the oven to 
poach the forcemeat; drain off all tne fat, and cover with a brown sauce (No. 414) made with a 
game essence (No. 389) extracted from the carcasses, and some Madeira wine. ; 


(2299), GASES WITH FAT LIVERS--SMALL (Petites Caisses de Foies-Gras), 


Cut into small escalops half of a large cooked fat liver; put it into a small sautoir with an equal 
bulk of escalops of cooked truffles cut the same size as the livers; moisten these with a little good, 
thick sauce reduced with Madeira; let simmer without boiling for seven or eight minutes, then ~ 

















Fic. 415. 


take it off and leave to cool partly. With this stew fill eight or ten china cases, cover the tops 
quickly with a thick layer of chicken forcemeat (No. 89), smooth nicely, and then range the cases 
on a smalJl baking sheet. Poach the forcemeat in a slack oven, warming the stew at the same time, 
and finally cover the surface of the foreemeat with a little cold Madeira sauce (No. 492) applied with 
a brush; return to the oven for two minutes to gloss the sauce, and then dress the cases pyramid- 
ically on a folded napkin. . 


(2230). CASES OF LARKS OR SNOW BIRDS (Caisses d’Alouettes), 


Bone thoroughly one dozen snow birds or larks; put the intestines into a pan with grated fat pork, 
a few chicken livers and a few foies-gras parings, fry over a quick fire, season and mix in some mush- 
room peelings. When this preparation is cold, pound and press it through a sieve, then mix in 
with it twelve ounces of chopped and pounded fat pork, four ounces-of chopped and pounded lean 
pork, pound all together and pass through a sieve. Take out a third part and divide the other 
two-thirds into twelve parts and fill the birds with them; roll them up into balls, range them on the 
bottom of a saucepan and brush over with a little melted game glaze (No. 398) and Madeira wine, 
cook them quickly for a few minutes to stiffen, then remove. Oil twelve small oval paper cases, 
having them an inch and a quarter wide by two inches long; drain and set them on the grater to | 
stiffen in the oven; cover the bottoms and sides with a layer of the forcemeat (No. 73), set a bird 
on top of each case, range them on a small baking sheet, push into a slack oven anda few moments 
later baste the birds with a little melted game glaze (No. 398); remove them five minutes after, 
dress on a dish and brush over with some good reduced sauce. | 


(2231), GASES OF OYSTERS A LA HILTON (Caisses d’Huitres & la Hilton), 


Prepare and line the cases exactly as for Lorenzo (No. 2232); fill them with small oysters after 
removing the muscle or ligament, cover over fine herbs cooked dry (No. 385), and finish with a 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with the oyster liquor, well seasoned; besprinkle with fried bread- 
crumbs, brown in a het oven and serve on folded napkins. 


(2232), GASES OF OYSTERS A LA LORENZO (Caisses d’Huitres & la Lorenzo), 


Either buttered metal or china cases may be used for these, or else buttered paper ones stif- 
fened in the oven; cover their bottoms and sides with a thin layer of fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 
90), mixed with some soubise purée (No. 723). Poach medium-sized oysters in their own — 
liqxor and white wine; drain and pare them, cut them up into pieces half an inch in size, and use 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. | 681 


these to fill in the cases; set on top some mushrooms that have been chopped up raw, fried in 
butter, then covered with velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with the oyster liquor and finished with 





Fia. 416. 


a piece of lobster butter (No. 580) and a dash of cayenne; cover over with a layer of the same force- 
meat, smooth and moisten the tops with a brush dipped in melted butter; range the cases on a 
‘baking sheet, and set them in a slack oven from twelve to fifteen minutes, then serve. 


(2233). CASES OF QUAILS A LA DEJAZET (aisses de Cailles & la Déjazet), 


Bone thoroughly some well-cleaned quails, open them ona cloth, season with salt, pepper and nut- 


_ meg, cover the inside meats with a layer «* game forcemeat (No. 91) with chopped truffles added and 


envelop the forcemeat, forming them in the shape of an egg, and lay them inside of bottomless oval 
molds of the same size as the paper cases in which they are to be served; set the molds on a baking 
sheet, cover with thin slices of fat pork, moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) and cook 
in a hot oven. Maskthe bottom and sides of the paper cases previously oiled and stiffened with a 
thin layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and the same quantity of cooked forcemeat (No. 73), 
both well mixed together; put the quails in the center and push into the oven for about twenty 
minutes, then cover with a salmis sauce (No. 536), mixed with the strained and skimmed braise 
stock. 


(2234), CASES OF SQUABS A LA FOLSOM AND CASES OF SQUABS A LA UMBERTO (aisses 
de Pigeonneaux a la Folsom et Caisses de Pigeonneaux a la Umberto), 


Pluck well all the pin feathers from some drawn, singed and cleaned squabs; bone them en- 
tirely, beginning by making an incision in the meat on the back and following the line down on 
each side with the help of a small knife; remove the breast and wing bones, then fill the inside 
with chicken forcemeat (No. 89) into which has been mingled mushrooms and __ truffles 
chopped up fine, fried in butter and. wetted with a little Madeira. Oil the insides of 
some paper cases, turn them upside down on a baking pan, push them into the oven to stiffen and 
then cover the bottoms and sides with a layer of the same forcemeat; set the squabs on top, one on 
each, and cover with a slice of fat pork; cook them in a slack oven for half an hour. Drain off the 
fat and Gress the cases in a circle, having on top of each one a channeled mushroom head (No. 118); 
pour a Madeira sauce (No. 492) over that has been reduced with some mushroom essence (No. 392). 

Cases of Squabs & la Umberto.—Butter or oil as many oval paper cases as there are 
squabs to be prepared; place them in the oven to stiffen and brown, then drain. Bone the birds, 
‘stuff them with a delicate quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix chopped truffles and mush- 
rooms; lay them in a sautoir in oval rings of the same diameter as the cases, moisten with a little 
mirepoix stock (No. 419), reduce it to a glaze, then remoisten to half the height of the squabs, 
and when done the stock ought to be well reduced; lay them in the cases and cover over with 


African sauce (No. 424), dress and serve. 


(29235), CASES OF SWEETBREADS A LA GRAMMONT (Gaisses de Ris de Veau & la Grammont), 


Blanch and braise the sweetbreads as indicated in la Montebello (No. 1560), then put them in 
round rings under the pressure of a weight. Melt some butter; fry in it a little shallot, parsley, 


682 THE EPICUREBAN. 


mushrooms and truffles, all finely chopped, season and moisten with Madeira wine; let fall toa 
half-glaze, then thicken with egg-yolks. Fill some cases half full of these herbs, lay the sweet- 





© 2 SO 6 SS Oe 


Fie. 417. 


breads on top and cover each one with a slice of fat pork; place them in the oven, and when 
cooked remove the pork and drain; pour the stock over the sweetbreads; when cooked reduce 
to a half-glaze. : 


(2236), CASES OF THRUSHES (Caisses de Grives), 


Select six good, fat thrushes, not taking those that are too large; singe and split them down the 
back to bone the breasts and draw the insides; season the interior meats and lay in each one a ball of 
game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), mixed with a third as much of the intestines from the birds, cooked, 
pounded and rubbed through a sieve. Sew up the opening on the top, truss the legs and shorten. 
the stumps. Melt some grated fat pork in a saucepan, range the birds in this, season and fry 
while turning them over until partly cooked, then drain and draw out the sewing thread without 
disturbing the legs. Add to the fat in the saucepan two or three spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs. 
(No. 385), a pinch of bread-crumbs and some grated fat pork, obtaining a light paste. Oil over 
with a brush six oval paper cases, and on the bottom of each spread a layer of this paste and 
over place a thrush; set the cases on a buttered sheet, cover with buttered paper and push into. 
a slack oven to finish cooking the birds. At the last moment remove, untruss the legs, glaze over: 
with a brush and set each case inside another white one in order to serve them neatly. 


(2237), CASES OF THRUSHES ‘A LA DIANA (Caisses de Grives 4 la Diane), 


Split eight thrushes through the back, leaving on the breastbone and legs; stuff them with 
chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), add to this forcemeat a third of its volume of foies-gras. 
from a terrine, mix well together and inclose a ball of the forcemeat an inch and a half in size 
in a bird, and place them in buttered oval tin rings, covering over with thin layers of fat pork, 
and cook them in a slack oven. Oil some oval paper cases, turn them on to a grater and lay 
this on a baking sheet, stiffen them in the oven, remove and line them with a light layer of the 
same forcemeat; place a thrush inside of each and push them into a slow oven for twelve min- 
utes; as soon as done remove the pork, drain off the fat and cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 


413) and game fumet (No. 397); set the case inside of another cleaner and larger one, then 
serve. 


(2238), CASSEROLES OF LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA DE LUYNES (Casseroles de Ris d’Agneau: 


a la de Luynes), 


Braise twelve unlarded lamb sweetbreads as for la Montebello (No. 1560); when cooked place. 
under a weight to reduce to half an inch thick, and when cold cut them up into squares, as well as. 
a quarter as many cooked truffles into one-quarter of an inch squares. Put on to reduce some 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), stirring into it some truffle essence and a little good melted game glaze 
(No. 398); when the sauce is properly reduced, add to it the salpicon of sweetbreads and truffles. 
Fill some small porcelain or silver casseroies (flat Saucepans) with this preparation, having them. 
quite full and rounded on the top; smooth the surfaces dome-shaped with a knife, let get cold and 
(hen cover over with a thin layer of forcemeat, besprinkle with parmesan and bread-crumbs, pour 
« little melted butter over, then bake lightly in a slack oven. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 683 


(2239), CASSEROLE OF RICE WITH CHICKEN OR YOUNG GUINEA FOWL A LA PALESTINE 
(Casserole de Riz Garnie de Poulet ou Pintade a la Palestine), 


Pick and wash in several waters, one pound of rice, more or less according to the size of the 
casserole that is to be made. Place it in a saucepan, moisten with double its quantity of water and 
cover entirely with slices of fat pork, salt over and allow to cook, then drain and pound, moistening 
with a little water. Put this into a saucepan on the fire and let get dry, then turn it over on tc 
a baking sheet or a marble slab and taking in the hands a little less than half, mold it to the shape 
of a mushroom head, proceeding exactly the same with the other half, keeping back a piece to roll 
into a round form, then flatten it down to half its thickness. Dress the croustade, laying the flat 
side of one of the small mushroom pieces on a sheet of paper, then fasten the flattened ball in the 
center and place the other large mushroom on top of this, only having it reversed, the widest part 
uppermost. Carve the croustade all around and cover it with clarified butter, then brown ina 
brisk oven and empty out the inside; fill it with fillets or breasts of chicken sautéd in clarified 
butter and small artichoke bottoms cut in four, also some truffles; when these ingredients are well 
done dress them inside the croustade; drain the fat from the sautoir, moisten with a little 
Madeira to detach the glaze, then add some half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce, and pour it 
over the chickens; garnish around the top with hatelets of chicken Villeroi. 


A Potato Casserole can be prepared the same as the one of rice, having a very dry mashed 
potato preparation moistened with raw egg-yolks, then molded; baste butter over and brown in 
the oven; empty it out and fill up with chicken livers sautéd in butter with cooked fine herbs (No. 
385) and Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(2240), CREAM OF PARTRIDGE OR CHICKEN (Orame de Perdreau ou de Poulet), 


Pound the meats taken from two roast partridges or chickens, with a piece of butter, a few 
parings of cooked foies-gras and two or three spoonfuls of reduced velouté sauce (No. 415); pass 
the whole through a sieve. Dilute this pulp with ten egg-yolks and one whole one, two gills of 
good raw cream and two gills of very concentrated game fumet (No. 397) prepared with the 
partridge bones or those of the chickens. Pour this preparation into a small vegetable dish or small 
buttered timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), and poach in a bain-marie, done by placing the dish 
in a saucepan containing hot water, having this water quiver only and not boil. As soon as the 
cream is set, remove to serve. 


(2241), CREAM OF PHEASANT, CHANTILLY (Créme de Faisan, Chantilly), 


Pound the meats of a raw pheasant; season and pass them through a sieve; return to the 
mortar and pound again with four egg-yolks, and three-quarters as much butter; put this into a 
thin metal bowl, and beat on ice to render it smooth and acquire a body, mixing in about a gill of 
raw cream; try a little piece in the oven ina very small mold to discover its consistency, and 
rectify when necessary. Prepare a montglas composed of uncooked foies-gras, truffles, and recently 
cooked tender red beef tongue; place it in a small sautoir to mingle with two or three spoonfuls of 
velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397); keep it ina bain-marie. Butter 
a mold (Fig. 139) with clarified butter; fill with the forcemeat, smooth the top, then poach in a 
bain-marie for twenty minutes, with a white paper laid on top; wipe the mold neatly after it has 
been removed, and turn the contents over on to a rice croustade foundation (Fig. 9a) fastened on 
to a dish; this to be an inch thick, and slightly wider than the mold; fill the hollow at once with 
the montglas; brush the forcemeat lightly with a little of the velouté sauce, serving more separately. 


(2242), OREPINE OF LAMBS’ TROTTERS, PERIGUEUX SAUCE (Orépine de Pieds d’Agnean, 
Sauce Périgueux), 


Prepare and cook the lambs’ trotters the same as for the poulette (No. 1768), drain and wipe; 
open them lengthways, and bone them entirely, using the utmost precaution not to tear the flesh; 
divide each one into two parts, season and fill the hollow place in each half foot with a salpicon 
composed of truffles, veal udder and cooked foies-gras, combined with raw quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 92), and a little baking forcemeat (No. 81); place on each four slices of truffle; wrap each 
half foot in a band of ‘‘crépine’’ or caul fat, previously well dried and beaten between two 


684 THE EPICUREAN. 


cloths to reduce its thickness; roll these crépines in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs, 
smooth and equalize the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and boil them for twenty to thirty 
minutes over a very slow fire, turning them during the operation. Dress them on a very hot dish, 
and serve with a sauce-boat of Périgueux sauce (No. 517). 


(2243), OREPINE OF PULLET (répine de Poularde), 


Put half a pound of grated fat pork in a saucepan with as much butter and oil, set it on the 
fire with the pullet, and brown this to a fine color, then take out and untruss. Brown in butter 
some finely chopped shallot and mushrooms, season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, let cool 
off, and use it to mask the surface of the pullet, then lay over a layer of not too hard quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89), and wrap the whole up in a piece of ‘‘crépine” or caul fat; baste with butter, 
bestrew with bread-crumbs, and place it in a hot oven to finish cooking the pullet; dress and pour 
around a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with lemon juice added. 


(2244), COREPINE OF BRAINS (Orépine de Gervelles), 


Prepare and cook some brains as for the poulette (No. 1481); when well drained, split them in 
four through the thickest part. Blanch one pound of onions, cut in eighth of an inch dice pieces, in 
salted water for ten minutes; drain them off, then fry these in butter to cook without coloring; 
season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme and bay leaf; add a quart of velouté sauce (No. 415), 
reduce well, suppress the thyme and bay leaf, and thicken with six egg-yolks and a little butter; 
let this preparation cool off partially, then envelop the slices of brains in plenty of it, and then 
wrap them in ‘‘crépine” or caul fat, giving each one a flat oval-shape; dip in butter and roll in 
bread-crumbs, broil over a slow fire, and serve on a slightly thickened aspic gravy (No. 391). 


(2245), OREPINE OF CHICKEN A LA TURENNE— BREASTS (Crépine de Filets de Poulet 
& la Turenne), 


Pare and chop up finely half a pound of raw chicken fillets, and one pound of chopped fresh - 
fat pork; season with an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168), and two tablespoonfuls 
of chopped truffles. Pound the chopped chicken, add to it the pork. Spread 
some pieces of ‘‘crépine” or caul fat on a napkin; divide half of the 
=. prepared forcemeat into inch and a half diameter balls, and lay on top of 
‘Fic. 418, the crépine a fine slice of truffle, over this a forcemeat ball; flatten down to 
half, and place on top some minced mushrooms previously fried in butter 
with fine herbs, and on this lay another slice of truffie. Wrap the crépines into oval-shapes, and 
dip each in butter, then roll in bread-crumbs to broil over a slow fire; serve on ahalf-glaze 
sauce (No. 413) finished with mushroom essence (No. 392). 





(2246), OREPINE OF PIGEONS, POIVRADE SAUCE WITH TRUFFLE ESSENCE oe ae 
Pigeons, Sauce Poivrade & 1’Essence de Truffes), 


Truss six pigeons as for an entrée (No. 178); braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) and 
when done transfer them to a vessel, straining the mirepoix stock over and then let get thoroughly 
cold. Spread some pieces of ‘‘crépine” or caul fat on the table; split the pigeons in two, pare 
nicely and cover with a foreemeat made of half a pound of veal and half a pound of veal suet, both 
being finely chopped and pounded to a pulp, then mix in two ounces of bread crumbs, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, finely shredded chives, chopped up mushrooms and a few egg-yolks; when this forcemeat 
is of a sufficient smoothness, and has acquired a firmness, use it to cover over both sides of the 
pigeons, laying it on rather thick; place a few slices of truffles on top and wrap the whole in 
pieces of crépine; baste over with melted butter and roll in bread-crumbs, then put them ina 


slow oven to get very warm, and serve on a poivrade sauce (No. 522) with essence of truffle (No. 
395) added. 


(2247), OREPINE OF REEDBIRDS (Crépine de Mauviettes), 


Take one dozen well cleaned and boned reedbirds, remove the breasts and put the leg meats 
and intestines into a sautoir, fry them in butter with some truffle parings and let get cold; season 
with salt and pepper, pound to a pulp and press through a sieve; mix in with this as much game 
quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and later add an equal quantity of fine herbs. Pare the breasts, 
remove the skin without extracting the minion fillets, season and cover both sides with a part 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. | 685 


of the forcemeat. Have some fresh and well soaked ‘ erépine” or caul fat; remove the fattest 
parts with a knife and wrap the breasts in, dip them once in butter, then in bread-crumbs, 
smoothing this nicely with the blade of a knife, fry in clarified butter, drain and dress in a circle 
with a bread crofton between each of the breasts. Fry some chopped mushroom, shallot and 
parsley, moisten with a little white wine and good stock; reduce the stock, add to it a little. 


meat glaze (No. 402) and parsley and finish with a piece of fresh butter; cover the crépines with 
this and serve at once. 


(2248), OREPINE AND SAUSAGES OF VENISON (Crépine et Saucisses de Chevreuil), 


Crépine.—Take a pound of venison minion fillets, suppress all the sinews and cut it up into. 
medium quarter-inch squares, place these in a vessel with half as many raw truffles cut in three- 
sixteenths inch squares, and season with salt and spices, pour a little Madeira over and marinate 
for one hour. Mix in with some prepared pork farce (No. 68), three ounces of foies-gras_ braised: 
and cut 1n three-sixteenths inch squares; after it iscold, pound the parings with a few truffle par- 
ings and put the whole together, season highly and divide the preparation into even parts each the- 
size of an egg and shape them into flat ovals,: wrap up in fresh pork ‘‘ crépine” or caul fat, brush. 
over with butter, dip in bread-crumbs and broil on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes while 
turning over; range them on a dish, pouring a little reduced gravy (No. 404) in the bottom, or add: 
some Westphalian sauce (No. 561) to this. 


Sausages.—Chop up three pounds of lean and sinewless venison with the same weight of fresh 
pork, a coffeespoonful of fine spices or else powdered sage, two coffeespoonfuls of pepper, three of 
salt, and three gills of water; when the whole is well chopped fill some mutton casings so as to form. 
‘sausages five to six inches long; prick them and broil. 


(2249), CREPINE OF YOUNG RABBITS (Grépine de Lapereaux). 


Remove all the meats from two raw young rabbits after they have been properly cleaned; sup- 
press all the skin and sinews and chop up finely, then mix in an equal quantity of chopped fresh, 
pork and season highly. Chop all this once more together, adding one-sixth of the same quantity 
of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) such as onions, shallots, mushrooms, truffles and parsley. Lay this 
hash on a large piece of ‘‘ crépine” or caul fat and roll it up oval shape, flatten to half an inch 
in thickness, butter over with a brush and place it in a deep, narrow, but long baking pan; cook 
for thirty or forty minutes in a slack oven while basting occasionally. Drain and dress on a dish, 
serving at the same time a sauce-boatful of good gravy reduced with game glaze (No. 398). 


(2250). CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MADEIRA (Croustades de Foies de Volaille- 
au Madére), 


Prepare some croustades in channeled molds, buttered while cold and lined with fine 
foundation paste (No. 135), fill them up with buttered paper and rice, over this a round of buttered 
paper, cover and fasten on a flat of the same paste; pinch the edges and lay on the center a puff 
paste cover made in three layers an eighth of an inch thick and two inches in diameter for the 
lower one, an inch and a half for the second and an inch for the upper one; egg over and bake in 
a hot oven, take off the lid and empty out the insides. Fry some chicken livers in a sautoir over a 
brisk fire, drain off the fat and moisten with a little Madeira or Marsala wine, adding some smali 
cooked mushroom heads and half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Fill the croustades with these livers and 
mushrooms, sauce over, replace the covers and serve. 


(2252), CROUSTADES OF LAMB SWEETBREADS—SMALL (Petites Croustades de Ris d'Agneau). 


Keep warm eight to ten small channeled croustades made of astruc, each to be provided with 





achanneled and pointed cover. Cut into dice some recently glazed lamb’s sweetbreads: put this. 
salpicon into a small saucepan with half the quantity of cooked truffles cut the same as the sweet- 


686 THE EPICUREAN. 


breads. Put a few spoonfuls of good béchamel (No. 409) on to reduce, incorporating in the truffle 
broth and alittle melted meat glaze (No. 402); when succulent and thick mix it with the sal- 
picon, then remove it at once from the fire and fill up the small croustades, smoothing the prepa- 
ration to a dome; leave to cool, cover with a thin layer of raw forcemeat (No. 89), bestrew with 
parmesan and bread-crumbs, pour melted butter over and warm slightly in a slow oven. 


(2252). GCROUSTADES OF REEDBIRDS (Croustades de Mauviettes), 


Cut ten to twelve crusts of bread; slit them all around and simply brown the surfaces in a 
sautoir with clarified butter to open and empty them out. Bone ten to twelve fine reedbirds, 
season and fill them with a little baking forcemeat (No. 81), besprinkled with chopped truffles; lay 
a piece of foies-gras in the center, and return them to their original shape; run a thin skewer 
through the legs. After the crusts have been emptied and are nearly cold, cover them over quickly 
with a thin layer of the same forcemeat, and in the hollow space in each lay one of the birds, sink- 
ing it down in such a way that it will not be deformed while cooking. Butter them over with a 
brush, season and cover with a thin slice of fat pork. Place the crusts on a buttered baking 
sheet, and this on a thick baking-pan so that the heat reaches the top more than the bot- 
tom. Cook the birds for twelve to fifteen minutes in a slack oven, and after removing them 
cover over with a good, reduced, thick and cold brown sauce (No. 414); let them attain a gloss at 
the oven door, then dress the crusts on a folded napkin. 


(2253), CROUSTADES OF THRUSHES (Croustades de Grives), 


Bone five or six thrushes, leaving on the thighs and two-thirds of the stumps; season them on 
the opened side and fill with baking forcemeat (No. 81), mingled with a spoonful of plain, raw pork 
forcemeat (No. 73); bestrew this dressing with.a pinch of chopped truffles, and lay in the center a 
small slice of cooked foies-gras or half a good pullet’s liver, seasoned and partly cooked with 
melted fat pork. Reconstruct the birds to their original shape, but do not sew them, only uphold 
the legs with a slender wooden skewer; cover over with a small band of buttered paper, and range 
them in a narrow sautoir lined with fat pork, moistening to half their height with good unskimmed 
fat. Boil for two minutes, salt over, and remove the sautoir on one side, keeping them for ten to 
twelve minutes without boiling. These thrushes should merely poach; leave them till partly cold in 
their liquid, then drain off to pare. Cut six hollow crusts (Fig. 42), slit them around, and fry 
lightly in butter, then empty out the centers and cover the hollow with a layer of forcemeat. In the 


middle of each of these crusts lay one thrush, cover over with a very thin slice of fat pork, and. 


place these on a small, lightly buttered baking sheet and put this one inside another, so as not to 
have the crusts brown too rapidly. Cook the thrushes in a slack oven for ten to twelve minutes, 
and as soon as they are nicely done remove and cover them at once with a thin coating of brown 
sauce (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397) and Madeira. Glaze the surface of the sauce 
to let it acquire a brilliancy and luster, then dress and serve. 


(2254), CUPOLA OF OODFISH A LA BISOAYAN (Coupole de Morue a la Biscayenne), 


Butter a cupola-shaped mold, coat the inside with a layer of butter and dust over with white bread- 
crumbs, then pour into the mold three well-beaten eggs, shuffle them around so they moisten the 
entire surface, drain off the surplus egg and bread-crumb the mold once more; with this double 
breading it will be found easy to cover the mold with a layer of rice prepared as follows: Cook 
half a pound of rice with just sufficient fish stock (No. 195) to cover, and when dry finish it with 
butter and grated parmesan; beat it up vigorously and lay it aside to get cold, then use it to spread 
half an inch thick over the entire interior surface of the mold. Soak two inch-square pieces of 
salt codfish for eighteen hours, changing the water three times in the meanwhile. Fry four 
ounces of onions cut into three-sixteenths inch dice in two gills of oil, add to this four crushed 
and chopped cloves cf garlic, a pint of thick tomato purée (No. 730), a pint of broth (No. 194a) and 
six ounces of capers; cook the codfish in this preparation, and when done and the stock quite con- 
sistent let it become cold, afterward using it to fill the cupola, finishing the top with another layer 
of the rice. Place the mold on a small baking sheet for half an hour in the oven, then detach the 
rice with the blade of a knife and invert it on a hot dish; surround the cupola with sweet 
peppers sautéed in oil and bestrew the whole with chopped parsley. 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 687 


(2255). OUTLETS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BABANINE (Odtelettes de Filet de Bouf a 
la Babanine), 


Cut up in squares a pound of raw tenderloin of beef, well-trimmed and free of all fat and 
sinews, then chop it up very fine. Chop separately a quarter of a pound of beef-marrow, then 
chop the two together. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix in slowly half a pint of cream 
while continuing to chop; roll out and flatten a small ball of this hash, place it in the oven to try 
its consistency; if the preparation be too firm add a little more cream, if too soft a few raw egg- 
yolks. Divide the preparation into eight equal parts, roll each one separately on a table dredged 
with rice flour, shape them like cutlets, arrange them on a buttered pan, pour over a little melted 
butter, and cook in a quick oven for six or eight minutes. Serve separately a Lithuanian sauce 
(No. 487). 


(2256). CUTLETS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BIENVILLE (Cotelettes de Filet de Bouf & 
la Bienville), 


Cold roast or braised tenderloin of beef is used to make these cutlets; trim one pound of beef 
free from fat or sinews; cut it into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and the same quantity of 
cooked mushrooms cut the same size. Reduce some brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) in a saucepan, 
add to it some raw egg-yolks, and a little good butter, then mix in the beef fillet, also the mush- 
rooms. Heat the preparation well, and when boiling pour it in a dish to let it become perfectly 
cold, then divide it into twelve equal parts. Roll them out on a table dredged with grated 
bread-crumbs; shape them in form of cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and then roll them in 
bread-crumbs; flatten the tops with the blade of a knife, suas to make them smooth and equal-sized, 
then fry them in very hot fat until they have assumed a good color, and serve them with well- 
buttered gourmets sauce (No. 472). 


(2257), CHICKEN OUTLETS A LA ADOLPHE HARDY (O6telettes de Poulet & la Adolphe Hardy). 


Chop up finely one pound of raw chicken fillets after suppressing all the sinews and i 
fat; add half the same quantity of fresh butter, season and mix the whole well together. 
Divide the preparation into two inch in diameter balls and shape them like a 
cutlet; dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter; drain and 
decorate with favor frills (No. 10). Range them in a circle, filling the center with a 
garnishing of minced cépes fried in butter, drained and moistened with cream 
reduced with the cépes, season and just when ready to serve finish with a piece of 
butter, lemon juice and chives minced very fine. 





(2258), CHICKEN CUTLETS ‘A LA OLARENGE (Cotelettes de Poulet & la Clarence), 


Fry lightly in butter and lemon juice six well-pared chicken fillets cut into half hearts; place 
them under a weight to press lightly and divide each one into halves through the thickest part and 
trim neatly again. Bone the legs, suppress the nerves and fat and fry them in butter, ther allow 
to cool; pound these with the same quantity of foies-gras from a terrine, adding about six egg- 
yolks and proper seasoning; pass this through a sieve and then mix in four tablespoonfuls of 
chopped truffles, a little melted glaze (No. 402) and a dash of cayenne and nutmeg. With this 
preparation cover both surfaces of each fillet, range them on a lightly buttered baking sheet and 
let get cold on ice; detach them from the sheet, heating it underneath, then roll each separate 
one in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten egg, roll once more in the crumbs, and smooth the breading 
with the blade of a knife.. Plunge a few chops at a time into hot frying fat to brown nicely, 
then drain and insert a small favor frill (No. 10). Dress them in a circle on a forcemeat ring 
poached in a plain border mold (Fig. 139), hollowed on the top; in the center of the ring range 
minced fresh mushrooms thickened with well-reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409). 


(2259), GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HEN OUTLETS A LA SEGARD (Cételettes de Tétras ou de Poulet 
de Prairie 4 la Ségard), 

Braise the fillets from the breast of a grouse, remove the skin and nerves and chop up finely; 
add six ounces of butter, season with fine spices and mix in three tablespoonfuls of game cream 
forcemeat (No. 75); with this preparation shape some cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and bread- 
erumbs and fry in clarified butter over a good fire. Serve separately, but at the same time a toma- 
to sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 


688 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2260), OUTLETS OF KINGFISH, MAYONNAISE MOUSSELINE (Ootelettes de Kingfish, Mayonnaise 
Mousseline). 


Make a very delicate fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90); mold this into cutlet-shaped molds, 
and poach until sufficiently consistent to be able to egg and bread-crumb; fry in clarified butter, 
and when a fine color dress on napkins. Garnish the ends with paper favor frills (No. 10) and 
serve with a mayonnaise mousseline sauce (No. 615) separately. 


(9261), LOBSTER OUTLETS A LA SHELLEY, OR WITH CREAM SAUCE (Cotelettes de Homard. 
% la Shelley, ou & la Sauce & la Créme). 


Cook in a court bouillon (No. 38) one lobster of two and a half pounds, take out all the meat, 
cut one pound of this into three-sixteenths inch squares, add to it half a pound of cooked mush- 
rooms cut the same as the lobster, and mix this salpicon with a velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced 
with mushroom essence (No. 392), and into which has been added a little meat glaze (No. 402); 
season, stir well over the fire, and when the preparation reaches boiling point, pour it into a vessel 
to get cold. Have a bottomless cutlet mold five-eighths of an inch high by three and three- 
quarters inches long and two inches wide; butter and lay it on a piece of buttered paper slightly 
larger than the mold, garnish the bottom and sides with a light layer of pike forcemeat (No. 90), 
set the salpicon in the center and cover with more forcemeat; poach this lightly, unmold and set it 
aside till cold, then dip it in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter, drain and 
serve on napkins with favor frills (No. 10) and a ae lobster sauce (No. 488) containing 
chopped truffles. 


With Cream Sauce.—Have a lobster ar Onnekte preparation (No. 880), mold it to the shape of a 
cutlet, bread-crumb and fry the sauce as for the above; when a fine color, dress the cutlets and 
garnish with favor frills (No. 10), serving them with a separate cream sauce (No. 454). 


(2262), CUTLETS OF PHEASANT A LA REGINALD (dtelettes de Faisan & la Réginald), 


Cut up a pound of the white meat of a cooked pheasant free of fat and skin into three-sixteenths. 
inch squares, also four ounces of truffles; mingle these with reduced béchamel (No. 409) and meat. 
glaze (No. 402), season properly and let get cold. Divide the preparation into one and three- 
quarters inch in diameter balls, roll and lengthen them on one end in the shape of a cutlet and lay 
them in bread-crumbs; then dip in beaten eggs and again in the bread-crumbs, flatten them down to. 
half an inch in thickness and mold them into cutlet-shaped bottomless molds; unmold and fry in 
very hot white fat or clarified butter, drain and trim with fancy favor frills (No. 10). Dress either 
in-a circle or in a straight row, and serve at the same time a well buttered velouté sauce (No. 415), 
into which squeeze the juice of a lemon; strain it through a tammy and then add chopped 
parsley and small three-sixteenths of an inch pieces of cooked mushrooms and red beef tongue. 


(2263), CUTLETS OF SQUABS A L'ALBUFERA (Cotelettes de Pigeonneanx % PAlbuféra), 


To be prepared the same as the signora (No. 2269); replace the slice of truffle by a braised 
cock’s-comb, having it. fall toa glaze in Madeira and half-glaze (No..400). Serve separately a 
poivrade sauce (No. 522) with truffles. 


(2264), CUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA JARDINIERE ‘eoae de Pigeonneaux & la Jardinitre), 


Thrust the legs inside as many young pigeons as needed, and split them in two lengthwise, 
flatten, then trim each half cutlet-shaped, the leg bone to take the place of the handle, season and 


roll in butter after breading them over, broil. and dress on a jardiniére cake: (No. 677), 
decorating the leg with a paper frill (No. 10); serve. 


(2265), CUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA LAURISTON (Cételettes de Pigeonneaux & la Lauriston), 


Truss the legs inside of six prepared squabs; split them in two lengthwise, beat down to flatten, 
season and pare into cutlet shapes. Lay them in a sauté-pan with butter, shallots, mushrooms: 
and truffles, all finely chopped, and cut up chives; cook together for half an hour without browning, 
then drain off the butter and place the cutlets under the pressure of a weight; let the herbs eet 
quite cold, then mix them with some chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with this prepara- 
tion cover each inner side of half a squab; dip them in beaten eggs and roll them in bread-crumbs, 
smooth well the breading and fry in clarified butter. Dress the birds ina circle, garnish the 
handle with a frill (No. 10) and fill the inside with a purée of green peas (No. 2742). Serve a 
half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Marsala wine separately, adding to it a dash of cayenne pepper.. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. | 68o 


(2266). CUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA DE LUYNES (O6telettes de Pigeonneaux & la de Luynes), 


Prepare the cutlets the same as for the Lauriston, only replace the forcemeat by a well-reduced 
allemande sauce (No. 407) with lemon juice added. Cover the cutlets with this and when cold dip 
them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in clarified butter; dish up and fill the hollow of the 
circle with asparagus tops. Serve separately a well-buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which 
mingle lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(2267). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA PERIGUEUX (Ostelettes de Pigeonneaux 4 la Périgueux), 


After dressing the pigeons as for jardiniére (No. 2264), pour over a Périgueux sauce (No. 517), to 
which add a garnishing of small chicken quenelles, laid through a cornet on to a buttered baking 
sheet into bead shapes a quarter of an inch in diameter, then poached in boiling water and drained. 


(2268). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA PROVENGAL (Cotelettes de Pigeonneanx & la Provengale), 


Prepared the same as the jardiniére (No. 2264), then fried in oil with minced onion, and a 
clove of garlic; drain off the oil and replace it by white wine, espagnole sauce (No. 414) and 
tomatoes. Cover the saucepan and finish to cook; just when ready to serve, add minced mush- 
rooms and chopped parsley. 


(2269), CUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA SIGNORA (Oételettes de Pigeonneaux & la Signora), 


Have some well-cleaned and singed young pigeons; make an incision down the entire length of 
the backs and bone them by beginning at this incision and following the line of the carcass on both 
sides, then take out all the bones leaving a drumstick on the same side of each pigeon; season. 
Mix well together some chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with as much cooked forcemeat (No. 73); 
spread out a layer of it on the inside of the squab, and in the center on the back place a fine slice 
of peeled truffle, having it three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; cover this over with another 
layer of the forcemeat, and wrap this in the boned pigeon, shaping it like a cutlet; dip in melted butter, 
then in bread-crumbs. Butter a baking sheet, and range either buttered molds or rings shaped 
like cutlets on top, set the pigeons in these, sprinkle butter over, then place them in a moderate 
oven, and let cook for twenty minutes. Remove the sheet from the fire, drain off the pigeons and 
decorate the legs with paper frills (No. 10); dress them in a circie, and serve separately a queen 
sauce (No. 530). 


(2270). CUTLETS OF SQUABS IN PAPERS (Cotelettes de Pigeonneaux en Papillotes), 


Draw, singe and clean nicely some young pigeons, cut an incision in the skin between the 
rump and the breast; thrust the legs inside, split the pigeons in two lengthwise and pare them to 
resemble cutlets, then fry lightly in butter with lemon juice without letting acquire a color; set 
them under a weight and trim them again into the required shape. Place some oil, grated fat 
pork, chopped shallot, mushrooms, parsley, salt, allspice and eighth-inch squares of ham into a 
sautoir; when these ingredients are well fried, but not browned, add some half-glaze sauce (No. 
413) and Madeira wine. Coat some heart-shaped sheets of paper with oil, on one of the halves lay 
athin slice of fat pork, over this some of the above prepared sauce and thena pigeon cutlet on top, 
finishing with more of the sauce and a thin slice of cooked ham; fold the empty half of paper over 
on the full one, pinch the edges well together to enfold all and enclose hermetically, then lay 
them on a well-buttered dish intended for the table; set it in the oven to brown the paper and heat 
the cutlet. The paper should swell up; serve as soon as done. 


(2271), SWEETBREAD OUTLETS, MODERN STYLE (Cételettes de Ris de Veau & la Moderne), 


Cut one pound of sweetbreads into slices; season and cook with some butter in a sautoir, turn- 
ing them over when done on one side; drain, let get cold under a weight, then cut up into smalt 
quarter-inch dice pieces; lay them in a tureen with half a pound of cooked mushrooms cut the same 
size, and a quarter of a pound of unsmoked beef tongue cut in three-sixteenths inch dice; mix this 
salpicon with some allemande sauce (No. 407), bring to a boil, stir well with a reducing spatula 
and set it away to cool in a dish; when cold shape it into cutlets, dip them in beaten eggs, 
then in bread-crumbs and fry; then dress ina circle, garnish with favor frills (No. 10) and pour 


a financiére sauce (No. 464) into the bottom of the dish. 


nt THE EPICUREAN. 


(9272), SWEETBREAD CUTLETS A LA TALLEYRAND (Oételettes de Ris de Veau a la 
Talleyrand), 


Braise some unlarded sweetbreads and set under a weight to get cold; cut one pound of these 
into quarter-inch dice-shaped pieces with the same quantity of artichoke bottoms, and mushrooms 
cut the same, and four ounces of truffles cut in three-sixteenths inch dice and mingled with a 
béchamel sauce (No. 409) thickened with egg-yolks and fine butter. After this preparation is cold 
divide it into equal parts and shape them as cutlets; dip in egg and bread-crumbs, fry to a fine 
color; dress in a circle, garnish with favor frills (No. 10), pouring a cream of soubise sauce (No. 
548) in the center. 


(2273), VEAL CUTLETS, POGARSKT (Cotelettes de Veau Pogarski), 


Chop up one pound of fillet of veal free of all sinews, mix it in with ten ounces of butter, two 
ounces of bread-crumbs, half an ounce of salt, and nutmeg; roll about three ounces of this on a 
table, besprinkle with rice flour and shape them into the form of cutlets; dip in beaten eggs, roll 
in bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter; glaze each cutlet over with a brush and dress them 
in a circle with paper favor frills (No. 10) on the ends. Garnish with fried potatoes cut in five- 
eighths inch balls and serve separately a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 
413). 


(2274), CUTLETS OF YOUNG HARE A LA FAVORITE (Odtelettes.de Levraut % la Favorite). 


Take both fillet and minion fillets, suppress the sinews and cut the meat lengthwise in two or 
‘three pieces; flatten and pare into half hearts, salt and lay them on a buttered baking sheet; bend 
them all to the right and give them the shape of a cutlet. Cut each minion fillet in three equal 
pieces, streak them on their length with truffles and place on the outside edge of the cutlets, cover 
‘over with bards of fat pork or else melted butter and cook in a brisk oven; drain and decorate 
with fancy favor frills (No. 10). Lay these cutlets on bread-crumb crofitons cut the same size, 
‘dressing them in a circle, and fill the center with a stew composed of quenelles made with the 
leg and shoulder meats, truffles, mushrooms and espagnole sauce (No. 414), well reduced and beaten 
‘with some fumet (No. 397) made of the hare’s carcasses and bones; serve more of this sauce 
apart at the same time. 


(2275). YOUNG RABBIT CUTLETS A LA PREVILLOT (Cételettes de Lapereaux & la Prévillot). 


Take four very tender young rabbits, remove the hind part of them and cut them in two 
lengthways through the center, bone the thighs leaving on the leg bone; remove all the sinews, then 
season and stuff them with godiveau of rabbit (No. 84), made with the minion fillets and fillets, 
mixing into it some cooked fine herbs (No. 385); sew them up and shape them into cutlets, stiffen and 
color these lightly in butter on both sides, then set them under a light weight and when cold pull 
out the threads and pare them all alike into cutlet form; dip them in egg and bread-crumbs. Pre- 
pare a fumet (No. 397) with the rabbit parings; when ready toserve have some hot clarified butter in 
a sautoir, put in the cutlets and cook to a fine color; drain, wipe and trim the handles, dress and 


pour around a Prévillot salpicon (No. 749), and serve the fumet separately, reduced with a little 
espagnole (No. 414). 


{2276), ESCALOPS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUFFLES (Escalopes de Filet de Bouf 
aux Truffes), 

After paring a medium-sized tenderloin, cut it lengthwise in two, then across in pieces three- 
sixteenths of an inch in thickness; trim them round-shaped:.an inch and a quarter 
in diameter. Place them one beside the other in a well-buttered stewpan, add some 

Oo slices of the truffle of the same dimensions; cover with melted butter and when 


ready to serve put the stewpan on a moderate fire fora few moments. Drain off 
Fic. 421. the butter, and firlish with a reduced Madeira sauce (No. 492). 


(2277), ESOALOPS OF BEEF PALATES WITH PUREE OF CHESTNUTS (Escalopes de Palais de 
Bouf Purée de Marrons), 


Prepare and cook the beef palates the same as for palates A la béchamel (No. 1326); when cold 
and pressed cut them into oblongs two and three-quarters inches by one and one-half inches. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 691 


Cover both sides of the pieces with a layer of delicate chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), mixing 
in with it an equal quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Dip in eggs and fresh bread-crumbs, 


t- TESS 











and fry them to a fine color. Dress them crown-shaped, and garnish the center of the crown with 
a consistent purée of chestnuts (No. 712). 


(2278), ESOALOPS OF CHICKEN, FINANOIFRE (Escalopes de Poulet Financitre), 


Lift off the breasts from four fine chickens; remove the minion fillets, and suppress the skin; 
cut the breasts crosswise into three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices, pare these lightly to ovals and 
range them in a sautoir with clarified butter. Streak the minions with truffles, form them into 
circles, and place in a buttered sautoir. Sauté the prepared escalops on a hot fire, drain off the 
butter, and add quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, and some financiére sauce (No. 464). Poach the 
minion fillets; dress the escalops inside a decorated chicken cream forcemeat border, or else in a 


_ -eroustade, and serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira, or if for white, replace 


this by some good velouté sauce (No. 415). 


(2279). ESCALOPS OF FAT LIVERS A LA VILLENEUVE (Escalopes de Foies-Gras & la 


Villeneuve), 


From a good fresh and firm raw fat goose liver cut seven or eight escalops one and a quarter 
inches in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch thick; pare them into ovals or rounds, season 
and range on a sautoir; surround with fine slices of raw truffles, cut the same diameter, season 
and sauté them, pour over the whole some good half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira. Boil up the 
liquid, then push the dish into a slack oven, basting them with their liquid. Twelve to fifteen 
minutes will suffice to poach the liver in this stock. At the last moment, dress the escalops on a 
‘dish in a close circle, and dress the slices of truffles around, one overlapping the other; thicken 
the stock with a little good sauce, pour it over the liver and truffles, and serve immediately. 


(2280). ESOALOPS OF FAT LIVERS A LA RULLI (Escalopes de Foies-Gras & la Rulli), 


Braise for forty minutes in a mirepoix (No. 419) with Madeira some duck’s or geese livers, 
wrapped in thin slices of fat pork or caul fat and buttered paper; put them into a small vessel, and 
pour the stock over, then let get cold in this; remove them from the stock and cut them into slices 
‘a quarter of an inch thick; pare them into rounds an inch and a quarter, and have the same 
quantity of truffles and mushrooms sautéd in butter. Fry some shallots in butter, add chopped up 
parsley, meat glaze (No. 402) and some well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), and with this cover 
over the livers, mushrooms and truffles. Have small sheets of buttered paper, lay on the livers, 
partly overlapping the livers lay a slice of truffle, and partly overlapping the truffle lay a slice of 
mushroom; cover again with a little more of the sauce, and leave to get very cold; remove from the 
paper, then roll the escalops in bread-crumbs, afterward dip them in beaten egg, again in bread- 
<rumbs, again in the egg, and in the bread-crumbs once more; smooth the crumbs with the blade 
of a knife, and fry them a fine color; dress on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley to 


decorate. 


(2281), ESOALOPS OF FAT LIVERS WITH RISOT, PERIGUEUX SAUCE (Escalopes de Foies- 
Gras au Risot, Sauce Périgueux), 
Prepare three-quarters of a pound of Piedmontese rice into a risot (No. 739). Cut up the 


quarter of a fat liver cooked and cold into small escalops; put them in a sautoir with half as 
many cooked truffles also cut up; add three spoonfuls of Madeira sauce and as much melted meat 


glaze (No. 402). Keep the stew hot. Lastly finish the risot with fresh parmesan, fine butter, and 


692 THE EPICUREAN. 


prepared red pepper (No. 168). Pour half of this into a large buttered plain dome-shaped mold, 
press it well on the sides in such a way that a hollow is formed in the center; fill this with the foies- 
gras stew and cover with the remainder of the rice; keep it in a heater for seven to eight minutes, 
then turn it out on a dish, covering the bottom of it with a little Périgueux sauce (No. 517). 


(9289), ESCALOPS OF LAMB OR VEAL A LA HABIRSHAW (Escalopes d’Agneau ou de Veau | 
a la Habirshaw). 7 


Lift off the fillet from a loin of lamb or veal, remove all fat and sinews, cut it up into small 
slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, flatten, pare and shape them into rounds; they should each 
weigh one ounce after being trimmed; fry these in butter over a brisk fire, drain off the butter 
and add salt, pepper, minced cépes, meat glaze (No, 402), a spoonful of Madeira wine and 
chopped parsley. Cut some cucumbers across into an inch and a quarter thick slices, and remove 
from them pieces with a column tube an inch and a half in diameter, pare and take out the insides 
with a smaller tube, three-quarters of an inch in diameter; line a baking sheet with thin slices of 
fat pork, lay the cucumbers on top and fill in the insides with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), Into which 
mix a little chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); cover over with more slices of pork and cook them 
slowly in the oven; when the cucumbers are sufficiently done dress them in a circle which will 
form a border and fill the inside with the escalops. 


(2283), ESCALOPS OF PHEASANTS WITH OLIVES (Escalopes de Faisans aux Olives), 


Raise the breasts of two raw pheasants, cut them in twelve thin escalops of equal thickness, oval- 
shaped and rather large, season and range them in a sautoir with clarified butter to stiffen them 
simply on one side, drain them on to a baking sheet covered with buttered paper and lay another 
sheet of the same on top; then let them cool under the pressure of a light weight. With the 
pheasant parings prepare a good forcemeat (No. 91), fasten on a round dish a rice croustade 
foundation cut into a ring, having it half an inch thick; take up the escalops one by one and with 
an oval pastry cutter slightly narrower than they themselves pare so as to have them all of even 
size. Cover the stiffened side with a thin layer of a preparation made with half purée of truffles and 
half purée of foies-gras mingled with a little melted glaze (No. 402) and a sixth of its quantity of 
the above raw pheasant forcemeat. Smooth the surfaces neatly and replace the escalops in the 
same sautoir as the butter; push this into a slack oven to poach the preparation and the escalops. 
Drain them off and dress in a circle on the rice ring fastened on to the dish, fill in the hollow center 
with a garnishing of large Spanish olives, glaze the escalops lightly with a brush and pour over the 
garnishing a little good Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397); serve a 
sauce-boatful of the sauce at the same time. 


(2284), ESCALOPS OF SWEETBREADS A LA CAREME (Escalopes de Ris de Veau & la Caréme). 


Braise some unlarded sweetbreads; when cold cut them into slices three-eighths of an inch thick 
and shape them into rounds an inch and a quarter in diameter; add to them half their quantity of 
mushrooms sliced thick and a quarter as many sliced truffles, mix with an allemande sauce (No. 
407), season correctly and dress inside a border of rice, prepared as in No. 737. 


(2285), ESCALOPS OF KERNEL OF VEAL A L'ARNOLD (Escalopes de Noix de Veau a l’Arnold). 


Cut some thin slices from the round bottom of veal, pare them shapely an eighth of an inch 
thick by one and three-quarters inches in diameter, range in a buttered sautoir on a brisk fire and 
fry both sides to a fine color, then drain off the butter and replace it by some sherry wine, mush- 
room catsup, anchovy essence, finely shredded lemon peel, cream and velouté sauce (No. 415); heat 
the whole, removing the sautoir at the first boil. Dress the slices of veal, reduce the sauce and 
pour it over; garnish around with small triangle crofitons of bread fried in butter. 


(2286), ESCALOPS OF YOUNG HARE A LA ROEDERER, GARNISHED WITH QUENELLES 
(Escalopes de Levraut & la Roederer, Garnies de Quenelles), 


Prepare the escalops in the following manner: raise the fillets and minion fillets from a young 
hare, remove all the sinews, and cut them up into escalops; fry in butter with sliced fresh truffles, 
drain off the butter and detach the glaze with white wine; slice some ham thinly, and from these 
remove small rounds with a tin tube, adding them to the other ingredients, then heat up the whole 
without boiling. Drain off the escalops, and dress in a circle of game quenelles (Fig. 75). Reduce 
the white wine with as much half-glaze sauce (No. 418), and when this becomes rich and succulent. 
season properly, strain and pour it over the whole. 








4 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 693 


(2287). FAT LIVERS A LA TOULOUSAINE—WHOLE (Foies-Gras Entier 4 la Toulousaine), 

Select a fine, raw, fresh and white fat liver that has not yet been put in water or milk; remove 
the gall, and stud each side with a row of raw truffles; season and butter over with a brush; wrap it 
first in thin bards of fat pork, then in a flat of pie paste (No. 144), closing all the apertures carefully. 








Lay it on a baking sheet and cook for an hour anda quarter in a slack oven. After it has been 
removed, unwrap, take away the fat pork and dress the liver on a long dish, garnishing around 
with small molded quenelles, cocks’-combs and mushrooms; serve at the same time an espagnole 
sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and an infusion of Ceylon cinnamon. 


(2988), HASH A LA SAM WARD—TENDERLOIN OF BEEF (Hachis de Filet de Beuf 3 la Sam 
Ward), 


Haye a pound and a half of cold_ braised or roasted tenderloin of beef ; three ounces of cooked 
mushrooms, three ounces of cooked potatoes, all cut in three-sixteenths of an inch Squares, and 
one ounce of cooked ham cut in one-eighth of an inch squares. Fry in butter without browning 
an ounce of chopped shallot, then add the ham, mushrooms, meat and potatoes; mix in a little 
velouté sauce (No. 415) and purée of tomatoes (No. 730); do not allow to boil. Season to taste and 
arrange the hash on avery hot dish; surround it with pieces of bread fried in butter. 


(2289), HASH A LA SHEPPLER—TENDERLOIN OF BEEF (Hachis de Filet de Bouf & la 
Sheppler), 


Half a pound of cold tenderloin of beef cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares, half a 
pound of mushrooms cut the same size, an ounce of finely chopped shallots; fry these in butter, 
then add the tenderloin and the mushrooms, also a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), salt, pepper 
and chopped parsley. Dish this hashin a circle of noodles cooked and finished with parmesan 
cheese, and serve. 


(2290), CORNED BEEF HASH (Hachis de Bouf Salé), 


Have four ounces of boiled potatoes cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, put them in a 
saucepan, and moisten with sufficient beef stock (No. 194a) to cover them entirely. Season with 
pepper and nutmeg, and half an ounce of butter; simmer until the stock is reduced; add six ounces 
of corned beef cut the same size as the potatoes; warm without boiling, and serve when the meat 
is very hot. 


(2291), CORNED BEEF HASH, AMERICAN STYLE (Hachis de Boouf Salé a ]'Américaine), 


Put in a large frying-pan one ounce of butter; when hot add four ounces of potatoes, and six 
ounces of corned beef, both cut in three-sixteenths of an inchsquares. Season with pepper and 
nutmeg, and fry, slowly inclining the pan so that the hash assumes the shape of an omelet. When 
a fine color drain off the butter, and turn it on to a long dish the same as an omelet. 


(2292) HASHED CHICKEN, ANOIENT STYLE (Hachis de Volaille 4 l’Ancienne), 

Raise the breasts of a roast chicken, remove the skin and sinewy parts and cut the meat into 
three-sixteenths of an inch squares; also cut a shallot into one-eighth inch squares; fry all lightly in 
butter without coloring, then add chervil, parsley and mushrooms, all well chopped; fry once more 
and mix with velouté sauce (No. 415); warm the preparation thoroughly and thicken with egg-yolks, 
cream, butter and lemon juice. Dress and garnish around with heart-shaped bread croftons fried 
in butter. An equal quantity of potatoes cut the same size as the chicken may be added, and when 
the whole is dressed strew the top with chopped parsley. 


694 THE EPICUREAN. 





(9293), HASHED CHICKEN, BAKED (Hachis de Volaille au Gratin. 


Cut a pound of the white meat of a chicken into three-sixteenths inch squares. Fry one 
shallot in butter without allowing it to brown, add some reduced béchamel sauce (No. 412) and 
the chicken, seasoning with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg. Place on the edges. 
of the basin of a dish a border of potato, pushing it through a pocket furnished with a star-shaped 
socket; fill the inside of this border with the hash, bestrew with bread-crumbs, pour butter over 


and bake in a hot oven. 


(2294), HASHED LAMB ALA CELESTINE—BAKED (Hachis dAgneau & la Célestine au 
Gratin), 


Pare a kernel of a raw leg of lamb, make with it a little quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) and when 
passed through a tammy mix into it a few spoonfuls of raw chopped truffles. Suppress the skin 
and sinews from a pound of cooked lamb’s meat, either the saddle or leg; chop it up and add to ita. 
quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms and two ounces of ham chopped the same. Reduce a 
few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), incorporating into it slowly the mushroom broth and 
two tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine; when well reduced and thick withdraw it from the fire to stir 
in the prepared hash; heat this without boiling, season, and let it get slightly cold. Use half of the 
prepared forcemeat to cover the bottom and sides of a pie dish (Fig. 183); fill in the hollow center 
with hash, cover it over at once with the remainder of the forcemeat, smooth the surface and be-. 
strew with bread-crumbs; pour some melted butter over and bake lightly in a slow oven. 


(2295), HASHED LAMB, CREOLE STYLE (Hachis d’Agneau a la Créole), 


Have one pound of lean, cold leg of lamb without skin, fat or sinews; chop it up finely and place: — 
“t in a high saucepan in a bain-marie (Fig. 122) with a little brown sauce (No. 414), a few peeled_ 
and quartered tomatoes, fried in butter, some finely shredded green peppers and plenty of season-. 
ing. Dress the whole in a rice border, made by boiling some rice in slightly salted water with: 
some butter; when dry place it in a plain border mold (Fig. 139), liberally buttered, and set it in 
the oven covered over for ten minutes to dry more thoroughly. Invert it on the center of a. 
dish, and dress the hash in the middle. 


(2296), HASHED LAMB WITH BANANAS (Hachis d’Agneau aux Bananes), 


Take six ounces of lean, skinless and nerveless cold lamb’ cut in one-eighth of an inch 
squares; fry a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion in butter and when done, but not browned, 
add to it a quarter of a pound of cooked and finely minced potatoes; moisten with a little stock 
(No. 194a), reduce for a few moments to the consistency of a sauce, and add the lamb cut into. 
squares; heat up all without boiling and dress on a dish, surrounding the hash with slices of 
bread cut in triangles and fried in butter. Decorate the top of the hash with two bananas peeled. 
and cut lengthwise in two, roll in flour, fry them in very hot oil, drain and cut them across in two: 
and with these quartered fruits garnish the top of the hash. 


(2297), HASHED MUTTON A LA OMER PACHA (Hachis de Mouton & la Omer Pacha), 


Suppress all the fat, sinews and skin in order to obtain one pound of lean, cold leg of mutton;. 
chop it up finely and place it in a bain-marie (Fig. 122) with four tablespoonfuls of reduced sauce; add’ 
to this some cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley, seasoning with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg; add meat-glaze (No. 402) and a piece of fresh butter. Fry in hot clarified butter some 
peeled tomatoes, cut across in two and slightly pressed out; season them with salt, mignonette and 
chopped parsley, and dress these halved fried tomatoes in a ring with the hash laid in the center; 
decorate the top with fried crofitons of bread cut in the shape of crescents. 


(2298), PARTRIDGE HASH A LA OLEMENOEAU (Hachis de Perdreaux & la Clémenceau), 


| Roast two partridges on the spit; lay them aside to cool, then lift off the breasts, suppress- 
ing the skin, bones and sinews; cut these meats into eighth of an inch squares, having half as. 
much mushrooms cut the same size, and as many peeled truffles as mushrooms; add to it the cooked 

vers, Cut exactly a like size. Make a light roux (No. 163), add to it the gizzards and broken up. 
varcasses, one bay leaf, sage, cloves and minced shallot; fry together with the roux, moisten with 


l- 


a quart of stock (No, 194a), reduce to half and pass it through a tammy without pressure, then: 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 695. 


again reduce well and add the salpicon; heat up without boiling, season properly and dress the 
hash inside a potato border; bestrew the top with bread-crumbs and parmesan, pour over butter’ 
and brown under the salmander (Fig. 123). This hash may be accompanied by poached eggs. 
laid on round slices of toasted bread to be handed around at the same time, and it may also 
be served without the border, surrounding it simply with crofitons of bread fried in oil. 


(2299), HASHED PHEASANT (Hachis de Faisan), 


Chop up the best parts of a cooked and pared pheasant; put the hash into a small saucepan; 
chop up also three peeled truffles. With the pheasant bones prepare a small game fumet (No. 397) 
and thicken it with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413); reduce this with two spoonfuls of Madeira 
and when yery hot pour it over the hash, mixing in the truffles, and heat up the whole without 
boiling. Dress on a dish and surround with oval game quenelles, cut in two across, bread-crumbed 
and fried. 


(2300), HASHED VEAL CAKES, BRITTANY STYLE (Hachis de Veau en Galettes & la Bretonne’.. 


Have one pound of lean leg of veal without any fat or sinews whatever, chop it up and mingle: 
with it half a pound of fresh fat pork, equally chopped, and season with salt, prepared red pepper 
(No. 168) and mignonette; chop again for a few minutes, then put this hash into a vessel and stir 
well into it two egg-yolks and a quarter of « pound of mushrooms fried in butter and minced very 
fine; roll this preparation on a floured table into one inch and three-quarters in diameter balls, them 
flatten them down to three-eighths of an inch in thickness with the blade of a knife; dip them in: 
beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and smooth the surfaces nicely. Heat some melted butter in a. 
sautoir, range the cakes in this merely to stiffen them on both sides, then drain off half of the fat: 
and moisten to their height with some gravy (No. 404); boil up the liquid and place the saucepan 
in the oven for one hour, keeping it well covered and basting frequently with their own liquid; 
remove them from tne sautoir with a skimmer, dress them in a deep dish and cover over with minced 
white onions prepared beforehand, but having half of the strained stock from the cakes added at 
the last moment. 


(2301), VENISON HASH, AMERIOAN STYLE AND WITH POACHED EGGS (Hachis de Chevreuil™ 
& l’Américaine et aux Céufs Pochés), 


Fry in a sautoir some shallots, parsley and chives; do not color them; moisten with half white» 
wine and half stock (No. 194a), add as much espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduce, then put in two - 
thirds of venison and one-third of mushrooms, both cut up in quarter-inch squares. Prepare «! 
border with potato croquette preparation softened with eggs, push it through a cornet on to the: 
edge of the inside basin of the dish, using a channeled socket; then fill the border with the hash, 
pestrew it with bread raspings, pour over butter and brown in a hot oven. 

A more simple hash can be prepared with cold roasted venison and cooked potatoes, equaF. 
quantities of both cut in quarter-inch squares. Heat without boiling in a poivrade sauce (No. . 
522), seasoned to taste. Dish it up very hot and surround with croiitons fried in butter, 


(2302), HASHED WOODCOCK IN A GROUSTADE WITH SOFT EGGS (Hachis de Bécasses en 
Croustade aux Giufs Mollets), 


Line a low croustade mold (Fig. 152)with fine foundation paste (No. 135), form an outer edge and’ 
egg it over twice; cover the bottom and sides with buttered paper and fill it with uncooked rice, bake 
in a moderate oven and then empty of its contents. Take the meats from six cooked woodcock 
and cut them into small three-sixteenths inch squares, after suppressing all the bones, skin and’ 
sinews. Fry the intestines in butter, pound these with the meat from the legs, etc., and make of 
it a purée to place in a saucepan with the fragments and parings; add a few minced shallots and 
boil up for some moments, then put in some espagnole sauce (No. 414), pass the whole through a 
tammy and reduce to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce (No. 413); now add the woodcock meats 
and season properly. Fill the croustades with this hash and on top of it range either well 
drained poached eggs (No. 2931) or soft eggs (No. 2949). This hash can also be dressed in a breads 


croustade fried in butter. 


696 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(2303), YOUNG RABBIT HASH GARNISHED WITH CROQUETTES (Hachis de Lapereaux 
Garni de Croquettes), 


_ Trim nicely the meats of one or several cold roasted young rabbits, cut them up into quarter- 
inch squares. Reduce some espagnole sauce (No. 414) in a sautoir, either with champagne or 
good white wine, to the consistency of half-glaze, add to it the meats and season well; heat it up 
without boiling in a bain-marie for one hour, dish up the hash and surround it with small round 
and flat young rabbit croquettes, made with cold rabbit free of bones, sinews or fat, and cut up 
into three-sixteenths inch squares, with the same of truffles and. mushrooms; mix all these 
together with espagnole sauce (No. 414), finished with rabbit fumet. Fry, wipe, salt and dress 
them around the hash, scattering chopped parsley over the whole. 


(2304), “PAIN” OF CHICKEN A LA VILLARS (Pain de Volaille & la Villars), 


Prepare a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); dilute with a little Madeira sauce (No. 492). Butter 
‘a eylindrical-shaped low mold, decorate it with a few fanciful cuts of truffles and fill it with the 
forcemeat; poach by putting it in a saucepan with water to half its height; bring the water to the 
boiling point and poach in a slack oven; when firm to the touch in the center remove from the 
oven and unmold. Have the breasts and minion fillets well pared and free of sinews, then cut 
into escalops; sauté them on a brisk fire with some minced truffles, season and drain off the 
butter, replacing it by a little Madeira and half-glaze (No. 400), adding two dozen small channeled 
mushroom heads (No. 118); when the whole is very hot dress the mushrooms around the 
‘‘ pain” and the escalops and truffles in the center of it. Serve a Madeira sauce (No. 492) at the 
same time. 


(2305). “PAIN” OF CRAWFISH, CHARTREUSE (Pain VEcrevisses, Chartreuse), 


With some raw salmon and pike meats prepare a cream forcemeat of fish (No. 76); prepare 
also a fine montglas with truffles, mushrooms and lobster-claw meat, cut in small Julienne: 
mingle all with some good thick brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and the truffle broth. 
Take a part of this montglas and use it to fill seven or eight scallop shells, smooth and round the 
preparation on top in the shape of a dome and cover with a thin layer of fish cream forcemeat (No. 
76). Butter a small, narrow, pyramidical mold, keep it on ice for a few moments and then line: 














Fie. 424. 


the sides and bottom with fish cream forcemeat (No. 76), leaving a hollow space in the center; 
fill this in with the montglas and close the opening with a layer of the same forcemeat. Poach 
the ‘‘pain” for twenty-five minutes in a bain-marie, or until it is firm to the touch in the center, 
keeping it covered with a round piece of paper; stand the shells steadily on a baking sheet, 
push into a slack oven for ten to twelve minutes, and before taking them out cover the tops 
with a little good velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced and finished with red butter (No. 580); take 
out at once and keep them warm for two minutes at the oven door, then remove and on each one lay 
a slice of lobster. Invert the ‘‘pain” on a small cooked noodle paste (No. 142) foundation an inch 
and a quarter high, it being slightly wider than the mold: coat the forcemeat with a little velouté 
sauce and place a slice of lobster exactly on the center of the “ pain.” Dress the shells around 
its base and serve at the same time a sauce-boatful of velouté sauce finished with red butter. 


(2306), “PAIN” OF PHEASANT WITH CREAM (Pain de Faisan & la Ordme), 


Pound the raw meats taken from a pheasant: season and rub through a sieve; return this to 
the mortar to pound again with four egg-yolks and three-quarters as much butter as there is pulp. 
Put this preparation into a thin iron vessel and beat it on ice to have it smooth and acquire a body, 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 697 


mixing in gradually about a gill of raw cream. Fry a small part of this in the oven in a diminu 
tive mold to judge of its consistency and rectify it if found necessary. Prepare a montglas of cooked 
foies-gras, truffles and very red freshly cooked and tender beef tongue; put all into a small sautoir 
to thicken with two or three spoonfuls of good velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with pheasant 
fumet (No. 397) and keep it warm in a bain-marie. Butter the inside of mold (Fig. 150), using a 
brush dipped in clarified butter, and fill it up with the forcemeat; smooth the top, cover with a 
round of buttered paper, and poach it in a bain marie for twenty minutes or until firm to the 
touch. After removing it from the oven wipe dry and invert it on a rice croustade foundation ( Fig. 
9a) fastened on a dish; it should be an inch thick and a very little wider than the mold; fill the 
hollow in the twist with the montglas and cover the forcemeat lightly with a brush dipped in the 
same veloute sauce (No. 415). Send a sauce-boat of this same sauce to the table with the ‘“ pain.” 


(2307). “PAIN” OF PIKE (Pain de Brochet). 


Pound to a pulp half a pound of pike meat, and press it through a sieve; work it ina mortar 
with half a pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sifted flour, salt and allspice; mix in gradually 
four eggs, and a pint of cream, and set this preparation into small buttered molds, cover over with 
a buttered paper, and close the lid; but should the molds not be provided with covers, then lay 
over a sheet of buttered paper, on top set a tray with a weight on it, and cook them in a bain-marie 
kept at the boiling point for an hour anda half. Unmold, dress, and serve separately either a 
Madeira sauce (No. 492) or else a lobster sauce (No. 488), but to either one or the other add 
some mushrooms, lobster cut in fillets and small nonpareil capers. The ‘‘ pains” may be sur- 
rounded by crawfish tailsor carp’s milts sautéd in butter with fine herbs. 


(2308). “PAIN” OF YOUNG RABBITS A LA MAINTENON (Pain de Lapereaux 4 la Maintenon). 


Bone four young rabbits, reserving the minion fillets; suppress the sinews from the meats and 
cut them into dice; also cut exactly similar a third as much fat pork; fry both these in butter with 
parsley, truffles and mushrooms, all finely chopped, salt, pepper, nutmeg and fine spices; when 
cold pound and press through a sieve, adding half as much panada, first pounding it, then mixing 
it in gradually with the forcemeat until well incorporated, then put in twelve egg-yolks singly, and 
one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) well reduced with game fumet (No. 397). Grease a 
cylindrical mold with sponged and softened butter, decorate it with fanciful cuts of truffles, and 
fill with the prepared forcemeat; cover with bards of fat pork, and then poach; unmold, glaze 
and fill the center with a stew composed of truffles and mushrooms. Cut the minion fillets on 
the bias in three lengthwise pieces, pare them evenly, score and streak with truffles; turn them 
into a ring form, and lay them into a generously buttered sautoir, cover over with buttered 


* paper, and cook ina brisk oven; glaze and dress them on top of the ‘‘ pain.” Cut quarter-inch 


thick slices of brain, and from them remove twelve rounds with an inch and a quarter tin tube, 
dip in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry; garnish the ‘‘pain” around with these and serve with a 
sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with game fumet (No. 397). 


(2309), PATTY A LA PALMERSTON—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chand & la Palmerston), 


Prepare a hot pie crust as indicated for hot pie & la Bontoux (No. 2314), but do not fill it. 
Make a forcemeat with four ounces of chicken chopped up very fine, four ounces of chopped lean 
veal and a pound of beef kidney suet well skinned and chopped; mix the whole well together and 
chop once more, seasoning- with salt, spices and nutmeg. Pound well in the mortar with two 
ounces of paté-A-chou panada (No. 121), add to the forcemeat a little at a time, and one whole 
egg; pound well together until it becomes exceedingly smooth, then moisten with a little water to 
soften; cover the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat. Have some escalops of sweet- 
bread fried in butter, with chicken livers and bacon cut in quarter-inch squares and blanched, some 
lean cooked ham cut the same size, and minced veal kidney briskly fried in butter. With this 
preparation fill up the hot pie and cover with a layer of the above forcemeat and over this place a flat 
ot foundation paste (No. 135), fastening it on the sides; cut away all the surplus paste around, pinch 
the edges and egg over. Decorate the top with designs cut out of puff paste, egg these twice and 
bake the pie in a slack oven; when ready to serve raise up the cover and pour in a half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413) mingled with a little tomato sauce (No. 549). 


698 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2310), PATTY A LA RICHELIEU—HOT, LARGE (Gros Paté Chaud & la Richeliew. 


Butter a hot pie mold, lay it on a small baking sheet covered with a round piece of buttered 
paper, and line the mold with paste (No. 139); let it reach half an inch above the mold, cover the 
bottom and sides with buttered paper, then fill it up with rice and cover with a sheet of buttered 
paper. Dampen the inside paste and place a layer of the same on top, flatten the two layers 
together, cut off the surplus paste around the edge, pinch the top crest and the edges, egg it over 
and bake for one hour. Cut the cover inside of the border, empty the patty, egg over inside and 
outside, return to the oven, without the cover, until it assumes a nice color. Put into a buttered 

















Fia. 425. 


sautoir twelve blanched lambs’ sweetbreads, season and moisten with stock (No. 194a), let fall 
to a glaze and remoisten; allow the liquid to reduce once more, and continue until the sweetbreads 
are moderately cooked; drain, trim and divide into slices three-eighths of an inch thick by one 
and a quarter inches in diameter, add to them a half a pound of mushroom heads cut transversely 
into thick slices, and an equal amount of rounds of red beef tongue the same size. Mingle these 
garnishings with a little velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with the mushroom broth and a few 
spoonfuls of glaze (No. 402). Arrange this inside the pie, forming into a dome on top, and around 
it dress a chain of halved quenelles of veal molded with a soupspoon (No. 155) and poached; in the 
center range a pyramid of small round peeled truffles cooked when needed with Marsala wine. 
Cover the quenelles lightly with the velouté sauce. Serve the pie with the remainder of the 
velouté in a sauce-boat. 


(2311), QUAIL PATTIES—SMALL (Petits Patés de Cailles), 


Bone thoroughly three or four quails; divide each one in two parts, season and cover the in- 
side with forcemeat (No. 81) in which has been added half as much raw game forcemeat (No. 91) 
and chopped truffles, and season with game pie spices (No. 168); envelop, giving the quail an oval 
shape. Cut some layers of pie paste (No. 145) into ovals seven inches by four inches; on the 
center of one put a thin slice of fat pork (No. 110); over this spread a thin layer of chopped game 
forcemeat (No. 66), place half a quail on top and moisten the paste all around; wrapping with 
this paste, fold over the side, then roll out*the paste on each end, moisten the top of the paste 
and bring the two ends together on the top; cover the paste with a thin oval layer of puff paste 
(No. 145). Make a small opening iu the top, range the patties on a baking sheet, egg them 
over, make fanciful cuts with.the tip of a knife, and cook for forty mimutes in a moderate 
oven. Pour into the opening a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira. 


(2312), REEDBIRD PATTY—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chaud de Mauviettes), 


Butter a hot pie mold (Fig. 158) and line it with pie paste (No. 145). Bone the breasts of 
about thirty reed-birds; fill them with game forcemeat (No. 91) and an equal quantity of foies- 
gras mixed together, having some chopped truffles added. Heat some melted fat pork in a sautoir; 
when very hot range the birds on it simply to stiffen them, season and let get cold. Fill the mold 
with the reedbirds and game forcemeat (No. 91), alternating one and the other and intermingling 
in slices of raw truffles; have it dome-shaped, then cover with thin slices of fat pork and this with 
a flat of the same paste, fastening the edges together; cut a small hole in the center, decorate it, 
egg over, and cook the pie for an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven; after it has been ten 
minutes from the fire, take off the mold and open and suppress the pork. Pour ina few spoonfuls 


of brown sauce reduced with a fumet (No. 897), and mix with it a little Madeira; put back the 
cover and serve. 


MISCELLANEOUS -ENTREES. 699 


(2313), SWEETBREAD PATTY A LA McALLISTER—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chaud de Ris de 
Veau & la McAllister), 


First blanch the sweetbreads, then set them under a weight, and when cold escalop and fry 
them in butter with raw ham cut in dice-shaped pieces and peeled truffles; moisten with Madeira. 
wine and let it fall to a glaze. Line a plain hinged pie mold (Fig. 153) with foundation paste 
(No. 135); fill the bottom and sides with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), mixed 
with half as much foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) and chopped truffles; finish filling the mold with 
the sweetbreads, lay a bed of forcemeat on top, rounding it slightly; moisten the edges of the 
paste and cover with a flat of paste, cut flush with the mold and pinched all around; decorate. 
the top with lozenges made of puff paste fragments (No. 146); egg over twice, and cook in a 
moderate oven for two hours and a quarter. When done, unmold and fill the pie with Madeira. 
sauce (No. 492). 

(2314), PATTY A LA BONTOUX—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chaud & la Bontoux), 

Make a pie crust in a mold, imitating the pinchings of a Strasburg paté de foies-gras pie with a. 
paté de foies-gras pie paste (No. 135). Cover the inside with buttered paper and fill it with rice, 
cover with a round of paper, moisten the edges, and cover with a lid of the same paste, fasten to 
the crust of paste, cut off the surplus around, pinch the edges, decorate the dome with leaves of 
noodle paste (No. 142), and in the center place an imitation artichoke made of the same paste; set 
it in a moderate oven after egging over twice, and when done remove the lid, empty and egg the. 


_ exterior surfaces, then let attain a fine golden color. In case there be an empty foies-gras pie 


crust on hand it can be utilized. Fill either one or the other with a bed of macaroni mingled with 
reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) and tomatoes, finished with butter, parmesan, and meat glaze (No. 
402); mix in also with the macaroni an escalop of foies-gras, truffles and hare quenelles made with 
hare forcemeat. This is made like game forcemeat, substituting hare for game (No. 91). Roll 
in sheets of buttered paper, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and when poached remove 
the paper and cut into thick slices. Heat the garnishing well without boiling, and with it fill the 
crust. 


(2315), EEL PIE—HOT (Paté Chaud d’Anguilles), 


Cut into slices two pounds of skinned eels (No. 57), having it well cleaned, suppressing the head: 
and thin parts; cut the remainder into three-inch pieces, and be careful to abstract all the blood; 
wash, wipe dry, then bone the pieces and separate the meats; lard each one with thin slices of 
truffle; lay the fish in a tureen, season and pour over a few spoonfuls of brandy or Madeira wine; 
let macerate for a couple of hours. Fry in a sautoir with some butter a few spoonfuls of shallots: 
and mushrooms; lay in the eel fillets and let them simply harden while turning them over, them 





Fia. 426. 


add the Madeira marinade and two spoonfuls cf brown sauce (No. 414); at the first boil remove the 
sautoir from the fire and bestrew the fish with chopped parsley. Prepare a fish forcemeat (No. 
90), finishing it with four spoonfuls of chopped truffles. Cover the bottom of a small baking sheet 
with a round sheet of heavy paper; on it set a buttered hot pie mold with hinges (Fig. 153); cover 
the bottom and sides with foundation paste (No. 135), and cover the paste with a layer of the fish 
forcemeat, then fill up the empty center with the eel fillets and fine herbs, alternating them with 
layers of forcemeat; fill till dome-shaped on top above the edge of the mold, then smooth it neatly 
and lay over another flat of the same paste, attaching it to the sides of the mold; fasten it to the 
projecting borders of the inside paste previously dampened with a brush; cutit away evenly, press 
it down und pinch it tastefully through its thickness. Make a small aperture on the summit of the 
dome; moisten the surface and decorate with imitation paste leaves, or any other fanciful design 


700 THE EPICUREAN. 


of the same, then brush over the entire top and border with egg: set the pie into a moderate oven 
to cook for an hour and a half, being careful to cover with a sheet of paper as soon as the paste 
is well dried. After taking the pie from the oven, lay it on a dish, unmold and pour into the in- 
side through the aperture on top, a few spoonfuls of good half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with 
Madeira wine. 


(9316). FAT LIVER PIE, ALSATIAN—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chaud de Foies-Gras 
4 |’Alsacienne), 


Line a hot pie mold (Fig. 152) with foundation paste (No. 135) made with egg-yolks, not having 
it too fine; pinch the edges prettily and fill it three-quarters full with baking forcemeat (No. 81) 
mingled with half as much raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); cover this forcemeat with a round 
of buttered paper, egg the edges of the pie and cook it in a slow oven for one hour, then take it out 
and suppress a part of the forcemeat; keep the pie warm. Select two fine halves of fat liver of 
equal size, season with salt, then butter them with a brush, cover with thin bards of fat pork and 
inclose in an envelope of paste pie (No. 144), fastening them on tightly so that the liver can 





Fie. 427. 


thoroughly poach smothered; place them on a baking sheet and cook for an hour in a slack oven. 

Prepare a garnishing of coarse macaroni one and a quarter inches long; mixin some large Julienne 
of cooked beef tongue; also have eighteen uniform-sized peeled mushroom heads. After the 
livers have been taken out of the oven, unwrap and cut each half into crosswise slices slightly on 
the bias; between each one of these lay a fine slice of peeled truffie freshly cooked in Madeira. 

Arrange the livers to give them a nice shape, heat them in a slack oven, glazing with a brush. 

Take the pie from the heater and fill the empty space with the macaroni garnishing; lift up the 

slices of liver one by one with the aid of a palette, and dress them one beside the other on top of 
the garnishing; coat with a little Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with the truffle stock and then 
surround the base with the mushroom heads. Serve at the same time a sauce-boatful of Madeira. 
sauce (No. 492). 


(2317), PLOVER PIE—LARGE, HOT (Gros Paté Chaud de Pluviers), 


Make a hot pie crust the same as for Bontoux (No. 2314). Bone one dozen plovers or more 
according to the size of pie; stuff them with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), into which incor- 
porate one-eighth of an inch squares of truffles and range them in a sautoir one beside the other; 
moisten with a little mirepoix stock (No. 419) prepared with white wine and cook on a moderate 
fire until done; then lay them in another sautoir with espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with 
game fumet (No. 397), and a garnishing of mushroom heads and medium-sized peeled truffles; 
when all the ingredients are very hot fill the hot pie crust and serve. 


(2318), PATTIES WITH GRAVY—SMALL (Petits Patés au Jus). i 
Take one pound of lean meat from the thick loin end and free it of fat and sinews; chop and 
pound it with five ounces of chopped fat salt pork, and two ounces 
of bread-crumbs; season with salt and pepper, and chopped parsley. 
Line some round channeled tartlet molds with fine foundation 
paste (No. 135); cover the bottoms with a layer of the above force- 
Fig. 428. meat, set in the middle a ball of salpicon a la financiére with truffles 
(No. 667), and finish with another layer of the forcemeat; cover 
with a flat of foundation paste (No. 135), place on this a round flat of thin puff paste (No. 146) 
one inch in diameter, egg over, and with the point of a knife make a fanciful rosette on the top. 
Let cook for half an hour in a slack oven; remoye, lift off the covers, and pour in some half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413) with Madeira wine; unmold and serve. 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. TOL 


(2319), WOODCOCK PIE—HOT (Paté Chaud de Bécasses), 


Bone six very clean, singed woodcock, keeping the heads which should be cleaned, the eyes 
imitated with quenelle forcemeat, and a round piece of truffle for the pupil; cook the intestines in 
butter, and when cold pass through a sieve and mix them with some game quenelle'forcemeat (No. 
91), seasoned highly with salt, pepper, duxelle, and chopped parsley; stuff the birds with this, 
enclose well the dressing, and lay them in bottomless oval molds the same size as themselves; 
cover with bards of fat pork, and cook in a moderate oven. Make a fumet (No. 397) with the 
bones, adding to it some espagnole sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced; take away a 
third, and to the remaining two-thirds add some truffles and mushrooms; let both garnishing and 
birds be cold. Line a hot pie mold (Fig. 152) with foundation paste (No. 135), leaving it reach above 
the top; fill the center with the birds and garnishing alternated, then wet the top part of the paste, 
and cover over with a flat of the same; make an edge reaching half an inch above the level of the 
mold, pinch it on the side and top, and decorate the summit either with noodle paste (No. 142), 
forming an aperture in the center, or puff paste parings; egg over twice; bake in a hot oven for an 
hour and a quarter toan hour and a half; add a gill of Madeira wine to the remaining two-thirds of 
sauce and pour it into the hot pie, then serve. 


(2320), POTTED TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA NELSON (Terrine de Filet de Bouf & la Nelson, 


To prepare this dish it will require a covered pie dish which can stand the heat of the oven. 
Cut slices from a well-trimmed tenderloin of beef free of sinews, and season them with pepper and 
salt; cover the bottom of the pie dish with a layer of good butter, spread over this some minced 
onions, and on the onions a bed of minced potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and set the 
slices of tenderloin on top. Place the pie dish over a hot fire for a few minutes, then put it intoa 
moderate oven for forty-five minutes; add a tablespoonful of clear gravy (No. 404), and the same 
quantity of meat glaze (No. 402), Worcestershire sauce, and musbroom catsup; sprinkle over the 
surface chopped hard-boiled eggs and parsley. Serve it on a dish over a folded napkin. 


(2321), POULPETONNIERE OF PIGEONS (Poulpetonniére de Pigeons), 


To be made with two pigeons. Line a bottomless oval mold two inches high by six inches 
long and four inches wide with thin slices of fat pork, place over an eighth of an ineh thiek la yer 
of godiveau (No. 82). Mix in a bowl two spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and two spoon- 
fuls of sweetbread parings or roast veal, either of these to be chopped up, mixing it in well; season 
with salt and pepper, and add some reduced velouté sauce (No. 415). Lay a layer of this in the 
oval mold, over this lay two pigeons cut in four pieces, fried in butter, then drained and moistened 
_ with a little gravy (No. 404) and brown sauce (No. 414), cooked for half an hour and cooled. 
Spread over some fine herbs, finishing with another layer of godiveau; cook in a slack oven, 
remove the mold, dress and pour over the remainder of the potted pigeon sauce after it has been 
strained and thickened with butter. 


(2322). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF PUDDING WITH OYSTERS (Pouding de Filet de Buf aux Huitres). 


Pour a pound of sifted flour on the table, make a hole in the center, so that the flour 
forms a crown, and in the hollow of the crown set three-quarters of a pound of beef kidney suet, 
after removing the skin and fibers, and chopping it up well; add half an ounce of salt, half a pint 
of water, more or less, according to the quantity the paste can absorb, and in order to obtain a 
firm paste without its crumbling; let it repose for one hour or more, then roll it out to three- 
sixteenths of an inch in thickness; butter the inside of a dome-shaped mold, line it nicely with the 
above paste, then cut some slices of tenderloin, about two ounces in weight each, trim them and 
season them with salt and pepper. Fry in butter without browning two ounces of chopped onions, 
add to it the slices of tenderloin, leaving them in just time enough to stiffen, then remove them 
and lay them in an earthen bowl; add to the butter one teaspoonful of flour and let cook for a few 
minutes; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, and with this make a little stiff sauce; 
pour it over the tenderloin, and when all is nearly cold fill the mold with layers of the tenderloin, 
the sauce and some raw oysters, drained and well dried, removing the hard parts of the oyster. 
When the mold is nearly full, wet the edges of the paste, and cover with an upper crust, pressing 
it down on to the lower crust; cover it over with a damp, buttered and floured cloth, fastening it 
on tight, then plunge it into hot water to boil for one hour and a half to two hours. Unmold and 
serve with an English brown sauce (No. 1571). 


702 ‘THE EPICUREAN. 


(2323), LAMB PUDDING—MINION FILLETS A LA GLADSTONE (Pouding de Filets Mignons 
d’Agneau & la Gladstone), 

Fry lightly in butter one ounce of chopped onions and shallots, fry separately some yearling 
lamb minion fillets, then mingle the two together, adding espagnole sauce (No. 414), some Harvey 
sauce, gravy, salt and pepper. Line a mold (Fig. 151), from which the inside has been 
removed, with beef suet paste, made as explained in woodcock pudding (No. 2825), fill it 
up with alternate layers of the meat and minced potatoes; pour the sauce over, moisten the 
edges of the paste and cover over with a flat of the same paste, lay on a buttered, floured soft towel 
and tie it all around with a string, then plunge the pudding in boiling water and leave it to cook 
for two hours; remove the towel, unmold, glaze with meat glaze (No. 402), spread on with a brush 
and serve. ‘ 
(2324), THRUSH PUDDING (Pounding de Grives), 

Butter and line a dome-form mold with a woodcock pudding paste (No. 2325), made witn beef 
suet, butter, salt and flour. Fry in butter over a quick fire, some fat pork, ham and twenty-four 
boneless thrushes; as soon as done, drain off the fat and add salt, pepper, chopped parsley, Madeira 
sauce and half-glaze (No. 400). Place all of this in the dome and cover with a flat of the same 
paste; lay a wet and buttered cloth over and fasten it strongiy underneath on the rounded side, set 
this in boiling water and let cook for an hour and a half, unwrap and turn it out of the mold on a 
hot dish and pour over a good Madcira sauce (No. 492) with game essence added (No. 389), serving 
a part of it separately. 


(2325) WOODCOCK PUDDING (Pouding de Bécasses), 


Cut up two clean raw woodcocks, dividing each one into five or six pieces, then season. Pre- 
pare a paste with a pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of finely chopped beef suet, a little 
water and salt; give it two turns like a puff paste, roll it out and use it to line a half spherical- 
shaped mold; bestrew the bottom with raw onions, shallot, fresh mushrooms and parsley all finely 
chopped, and on this range the pieces of woodcock, dredging them over with chopped parsley. Cook 
the intestines taken from the birds with grated fat pork, press through a sieve and dissolve with 
a little half-glaze (No. 400), then pour it over the woodcocks. Close the opening with a layer 
of the same paste, fastening it well to the edges, and place the large part of the mold on the 
middle of a wet towel and tie the ends firmly on the top or round part of the mold. Cook the 
pudding for two hours in boiling water, then drain off the mold, untie the towel and turn the 
pudding over on a dish, remove the mold and cover the bottom of the dish with a little sauce 
reduced with game fumet (No. 397) and truffle peelings; glaze the paste with a brush and serve 
with a separate sauce reduced with game fumet. 


(2326), CHICKEN QUENELLES A LA DREW (Quenelles de Volaille a la Drew), 


Butter some oval molds three inches long by two wide and two and a quarter inches deep; 
decorate them with cuts of truffles and cover this with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 
89), then poach in a slack oven. Prepare some forcemeat crofitons so that when they are trimmed 
and fried they will be exactly the same size as the quenelles and each ‘a quarter of an inch thick; 
these are to be made of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78), 
half of each, mixed well and rubbed through a sieve. Spread this on sheets of strong buttered 
paper and poach in a slack oven; when cold dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a 
fine color; drain, wipe and dress these around a croustade (Fig. 8) made of fine foundation paste 
(No. 135), fastened with paste on to the center of a dish, pouring a little supréme sauce (No. 547) 
around. Unmold the quenelles and lay them on the forcemeat crofitons; fill the croustade with 
whole peeled truffles and channeled fresh mushrooms (No. 118); cover these garnishings with 
supréme sauce (No. 547); finish when ready with raw egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, range 
some trussed crawfish on top of the garnishing, then serve. 


(2327), CHICKEN QUENELLES A LA RICHELIEU (Quenelles de Volaille 4 la Richelieu), 
Decorate some oval-shaped molds with fanciful cuts of very black truffles. 
Pound one ounce of truffles with the same quantity of cooked rice and half 
as much fresh butter, adding one or two spoonfuls of béchamel sauce (No. 
409), pass all through a sieve and let get very cold. Garnish half of the 
Fic. 429. molds with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), lay the prepared truffle purée 
in the center, cover over with more forcemeat and poach them in a slack 
oven; as soon as they are firm to the touch, unmold and dress them crown-shaped; serve separately 

a Périgueux sauce (No. 517). 








MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 703 


(2328), CHICKEN QUENELLES, BRETONNE (Quenelles de Poulet Bretonne), 


This entrée is to be dressed on a paste foundation that covers the bottom of a dish, the sides of 
it to be decorated, and it should have a round flat support in the center, shaped rather on a slope 
and two inches high; this support is to be made of fried bread covered with forcemeat and 
poached inaslack oven. In this manner the quenelles will havea firm foundation to stand against, 
and the mushrooms being supported by this prop cannot impair the solidity of the circle, 
but in order to be perfectly safe it were better that the bottom of the dish be provided with an out- 








So Co. 


Fie. 430. 


standing ledge, thus giving more strengtn to the circle. Prepare a pretty garnishing of turned 
mushrooms (No. 118) of even size, and cooked very white; have some minced onions also prepared, 
reduced with good béchamel sauce (No. 409), and thickened off the fire with two egg-yolks, finish- 
ing with a dash of cayenne. Pound the raw meats of a large chicken, mixing in a third as much 
pate-a-choux panada (No. 121), adding it very slowly so that the meats will take some time to pound, 
then put in about four or five spoonfuls of the minced onions. When all is well mingled add two 
or three raw yolks; pass this forcemeat through a sieve, lay it aside in a metal bowl, smooth it on 
ice, and mold it into about fifteen handsome quenelles (No. 154); poach and remove carefully with 
askimmer; drain on a cloth, and dress them at once in a uniform circle, slightly spreading out- 
ward; arrange the mushrooms on top of the support, and cover them with a little good velouté 
sauce (No. 415), reduced with the mushroom broth and parings; serve more of this sauce apart. 


(2329), QUENELLES OF CHICKEN WITH CONSOMME (Quenelles de Poulet au Consommé), 


Prepare a quenelle forcemeat with the breasts of two chickens the same as for No. 89; form 
a small quenelle and throw it into a little boiling broth; remove it from the fire and poach it for 
about ten minutes, cut it in two to be assured of its delicacy, and if found too hard add two or 
three spoonfuls of allemande sauce (No. 407) to the forcemeat, and if too soft a little panada 
(No. 121), pounding it well and adding only a small quantity at a time; then place the forcemeat in 
a tin vessel and lay iton ice. Put the four well-roasted legs and all the fragments of the chickens 
into a saucepan, with the exception of the livers and gizzards, moisten to the height of the meats 
with some good stock (No. 194a), then boil and skim; add an onion stuck with a clove, a minced 
carrot and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf; let cook for one hour on a very slow fire, 
then strain, skim off the fat, clarify and pour it through a napkin; it should be of a fine color. An 
hour and a quarter before serving butter a sautéing pan liberally, having it large enough to hold 
twelve soupspoon quenelles, and mold them as explained in No. 155. Twenty minutes before 
serving put this sautéing pan on the range and moisten the quenelles with some of the boiling 
broth (No. 194a); cover and set it on one side to poach without boiling; as soon as they feel hard 
under the pressure of the finger, and have risen to the surface of the broth, drain them on toa 
white cloth and lay them either in a vegetable dish or a silver one and pour the boiling prepared 
consommé over. 


(2330), QUENELLES OF FISH, MONTGLAS (Quenelles de Poisson & la Montglas) 


This entrée is to be dressed in the center of a carved border made of rice croustade (No. 10). 
Prepare a fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) with pike perch; when strained put it into a thin 
metal vessel, and with a spoon incorporate in, while working it on ice, two spoonfuls of good 
béchamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with a. coffeespoonful of powdered curry, diluting with the 
mushroom liquor; keep the forcemeat on ice. With the head and parings of the pike perch make 
a good white wine court-bouillon (No. 89); strain, free it of fat, and reduce to a half-glaze. Put 
on to reduce three gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), and incorporate the court-bouillon slowly into 
it, also a few spoonfuls of the reduced mushroom broth. Strain the sauce when slieoulent and 
sufficiently thickened; pour it into a small saucepan and stir it occasionally on the side 


704 THE EPICUREAN. 


of the range. Prepare a plentiful montglas, composed of truffles, mushrooms, and cooked lobster: 
claw meat; mingle in a few spoonfuls of reduced veloute sauce (No. 415), and keep it in a bain- 
marie; prepare also a fine salpicon of trimmed and poached oysters, add a few spoonfuls of good 
reduced velouté sauce and the oyster liquor, finishing with a coffeespoonful of anchovy essence, 
paste or purée; let this preparation get cool, then divide it into small parts, and roll each one to the 
shape of a long olive. With the fish forcemeat mold some quenelles with a soupspoon (No. 155); 





Sa eed Oe 


Fig. 431. 


stuff them with the salpicon rolled in olive-shapes, and cover with more of the forcemeat; 
smooth the surfaces nicely; poach these quenelles in salted water without allowing the 
liquid to boil, and as soon as the forcemeat stiffens drain on toa cloth. Dress the montglas in 
the center of the rice border, and between the latter and the montglas range the quenelles stand- 
ing almost upright; cover them lightly with the prepared sauce, and serve at the same time a bowl- 
ful of the same, buttering it well, and finishing it at the last moment with a piece of lobster 
butter (No. 580). 


(2331), QUENELLES OF FOIES-GRAS, STUFFED A LA FINANCIERE (Quenelles de Foies-Gra: 
Fourrées & la Financiére), 


Fasten a bread or rice croustade on a dish as shown in Fig. 431, hollowing it one inch only 
on the top; in the center place a rice support slightly conical in shape and two inches high. Have 
this croustade fastened on a dish and keep it covered. Prepare a montglas of truffles; mix it 
with a very thick brown sauce (No. 414), leave to cool, then divide it into small parts and roll each of 
these into long olives. Pound a raw foies-gras, season and pass it through a sieve; pound also half 
as much breast of raw chicken and add slowly to it half the same quantity of bread panada (No. 
121); press this forcemeat through a sieve and return it to the mortar, season and pound once 
more, incorporating in gradually the pounded foies-gras and three or four egg-yolks; season 





highly; smooth by beating on ice, then try a small piece to judge of its consistency. With the 
bones, fragments of chicken and broth prepare a supréme sauce (No. 547); keep itin a bain-marie. 
Butter a dozen quenelle molds, decorate them with truffles (Fig. 75), fill them full of forcemeat, 
form a depression in the center, place in one of the montglas olives and cover with more force- 
meat so that it lies exactly in the center of the quenelle; smooth dome-form with the blade of a 
small wet knife to have it a perfect shaped quenelle. Range these molds on a deep baking pan 
containing a little hot water, cover with buttered paper and poach in a slack oven. Remove and 
dress them almost upright on the eroustade, leaning them against the support, and finally cover 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 705. 


with a little of the supréme sauce. Fill the empty space in the center with a tastefully arranged 
cluster of mushrooms and imitation cocks’-combs made of veal palates, masking them with more 
of the sauce, and in the middle lay a fine glazed truffle; cover very lightly with the sauce and serve 
what remains in a sauce-boat. 


(2332), QUENELLES OF GROUSE, LONDONDERRY (Quenelles de Tétras Londonderry), 


Obtain some oval-shaped molds three inches long by two and a quarter wide, they being half 
‘an inch thick; butter them over with cold fresh butter and decorate with fanciful cuts of very 
black truffles (Fig. 75); cover the bottoms with grouse quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and fill up 
the center with a salpicon of grouse and mushrooms, half of each, thickened with Madeira sauce 
(No. 492), then let stand till cold. Cover over with more of the forcemeat, smooth the surface and 
poach in boiling water, having just sufficient to reach halfway up the molds. When firm to the touch 
unmold, drain and dress on a dish bottom having a support on top filled with truffles; cover the 
quenelles with Madeira sauce (No. 492) and game fumet (No. 397), and also serve a sauce-boatful of 
the sauce. 


(2333), QUENELLES OF PARTRIDGE A LA STUART (Quenelles de Perdreau & la Stuart), 


Have oval-shaped molds, and decorate them with fanciful cuts of very 
black truffles and red beef tongue; garnish half of each mold with a delicate 
partridge cream forcemeat (No. 75); lay in the center some cold cooked fine 
herbs (No. 385) reduced with velouté sauce (No. 415), and cover with more 
of the forcemeat; poach them in a slack oven, and serve with a separate 
sauce-boat of béchamel sauce (No. 409) finished with essence of truffles Fic. 433. 
(No. 395). 





(2334), QUENELLES OF PHEASANT—FRIED (Quenelles de Faisan Frites), 


With some raw pheasant meat taken from the breasts prepare a quenelle forcemeat (Noy) 
and when passed through a sieve put it in a tin vessel and cook until smooth; mix in with it two 
spoonfuls of chopped truffles; use this to fill a dozen quenelle molds (Fig. 75); have the tops quite 
high and smooth. Range these molds on a raised-edge baking tin containing a little hot water; 
boil the liquid up twice, then cover the molds with buttered paper and poach uncovered in a slack 
oven; when firm to the touch remove. Cool them off partly before unmolding, then dip in eggs,. 


then in bread-crumbs, fry and serve on a folded napkin with fried parsley on top. 


(2335). QUENELLES OF SALMON—STUFFED (Quenelles de Saumon Fourrées), 
Fasten on to the center of an entrée dish a wooden bottom an inch and a half in thickness:: 
cover it with a thin flat of noodle paste (No. 142); in the middle of this fasten a small round sup- 
port cut sloping, and on‘ top set a small basket, all of these being covered with noodle paste; the 





Fia. 484. 


inside must also be covered, and the outside with ornamental leaves cut fromthe same paste. Egg 
over this paste and dry it for a few hours. Prepare a forcemeat with ten ounces of salmon, eight 
ounces of panada (No. 121), eight ounces of lobster butter (No. 580) and four egg-yolks; rub it 
through a sieve and when very smooth try a small piece to rectify if necessary; let this harden on 
the ice for twenty minutes, stirring it frequently. Make a fine truffled montglas with mushrooms and 
truffles thickened with a good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced and finished with a few tablespoon- 
fuls of fish glaze (No. 399); let this preparation get cold and divide into small parts and roll into 


706 THE EPICUREAN. 


Jong-shaped olives. Have the forcemeat very smooth and form it into quenelles with a spoon 
(No. 155), and stuffing each one with a little montglas poach them in salted water, drain on a cloth 
and decorate the smoothest side with a truffle lozenge, fastening it on with a little of the uncooked 
forcemeat. Dress these quenelles in a circle around the base on the dish, inclining them some- 
what; fill the basket with small truffles, cover the quenelles lightly with a little good lean velouté 


sance (No. 416) reduced with fish court-bouillon (No. 38) and mushroom broth, having a separate. 


sauce-boat of the same sauce. The truffles in the basket may be replaced by mushrooms or a small 
pyramid of crawfish tails or shrimps dressed around a bed of fresh parsley. 


(2336), SPRING TURKEY QUENELLES A LA PROVIDENCE Quenelles de Dindonneau & la 
Providence), 


Decorate some oval-shaped molds (Fig. 75) with red tongue, truffles and 
pistachios; fillthem half full with some very mellow turkey quenelle force- 
meat (No. 89), and lay in the center a royal salpicon (No. 751); cover with 
more forcemeat and poach them in a slow oven; unmold and dress them 
crown-shaped, filling the well with shrimps rolled in a little chicken glaze anne rots 
(No. 398), lemon juice and lobster butter (No. 580). Dress over a printaniére 
sauce (No. 546) and serve a separate sauce-boat of the same sauce. 





(2337). WOODCOCK QUENELLES A LA D'ARTOIS (Quenelles de Bécasses & la d’Artois), 


Butter some pieces of strong paper three inches by four, spread on them a layer of woodcock 

quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), oval-shaped, two and a half inches long by 

one and a half wide and a quarter of an inch thick; garnish the centers 

with a brown montglas (No. 747), and cover with another layer of the 

quenelle forcemeat, having it dome-shaped, and smoothing with a knife. 

iti * ita, «Gl Decorate the top with truffles and red tongue; cover with thin slices of fat 

Sorc ante pork and a strong buttered paper, then poach them in a slack oven until 

they are firm to the touch; dress them crown-shaped in a dish, cover them 

with half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira sauce (No. 492); serve separately a sauce-boat of the same 
sauce. 





(2338), SALPICON OF CHICKEN, BAKED (Salpicon de Volaille au Gratin), 


Take one pound of white meat of a cooked chicken, cut it into small dice and put the pieces 
in a saucepan with four spoonfuls of cooked lean ham, and as much mushrooms, all to be cut alike, 
and mingle in a few spoonfuls of good reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409), finishing the preparation 
with a small piece of melted chicken glaze (No. 398). Pour the whole into asmall pie dish (Fig. 183), 
smooth it to a dome and cover with a layer of duchess potato preparation (No. 2785), smooth again, 
butter over the top and bestrew with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; bake for a quarter of an 
hour in a slack oven and serve in the same dish. : 


(2339), SHELLS BENOITON (oquilles Benoiton). 


Prepare the samesauce as for a la Villa (No. 2340), mixing into it a third each of whole braised 
chestnuts (No. 654), fine mushroom heads and whole small truffles; strew the tops with unsmoked 
beef tongue and green pistachios, both cut up in small one-eighth inch squares; then dredge 
with bread-crumbs and butter. Brown in a moderate oven for ten to fifteen minutes and serve. 


(2340), SHELLS OF OYSTERS A LA VILLA (Coquilles d’Huitres @ la Villa), 


Poach the oysters, drain and suppress the hearts. Sauté in butter half as much escalops of 
cooked lobster, and half as much white part of cooked chicken as lobster. Out the poached 
oysters In five-eighths of an inch squares, mingle with the lobster, chicken and béchamel sauce 
(No. 409), thickening with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter; use this preparation to fill up some 
buttered and bread-crumbed clean oyster shells; when very full sift over each a little fried bread- 
crumbs, and set them in the oven a few minutes before serving. ; . 


Spl 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 70% 


(2341), SHELLS FILLED WITH CRAWFISH TAILS (Coquilles Garnies de Queues W’Ecrevisses), 


Prepare a salpicon with the meats picked from the large claws and the tails of crawfish; add to 
it a third as much cooked mushrooms, cut in dice Shape, and mingle with some good reduced thick 
béchamel sauce (No. 409); with this fill eight or ten silver or china table shells (Fig. 488); smooth 





— a > ow. 


Fig. 437. 


_the preparation to a dome and cover with a layer of the cream fish forcemeat (No. 76). Range the 
shells on a small baking sheet, dredge the forcemeat with grated parmesan and brown for five 
minutes under the salamander (Fig. 123); keep the shells hot at the oven door for five minutes 
longer, then dress them symmetrically on a wooden foundation covered with white paper; surround 
this foundation with green parsley leaves. 


(2342), SHELLS EILLED WITH SHRIMPS AND OYSTER CRABS (Coquilles Garnies de Crevettes 
et de Crabes d’Huitres), 


Put the oyster crabs into a saucepan on the fire, with a little white wine, 
and when poached drain and lay them in a sautoir with the same amount of 
cooked and. shelled shrimps fried in butter; add lean béchamel cream sauce 
(No. 411) that has been well seasoned; with this fill some buttered and breaded 
silver shells (Fig. 488) or else clean clam shells; throw bread-crumbs over, baste 
with butter and brown ina hot oven. 





(2343), SHELLS OF BEEF PALATES ALA MARINIERE ( Coquilles de Palais de Beuf & la Mariniére), 


Have some beef palates cooked and pressed as explained for a la béchamel (No. 1326), cut them 
in fillets of a quarter of an inch square by one inch in length. Place in a saucepan two ounces 
of butter, and some finely chopped shallots and mushrooms; moisten with a little white wine, add 
a little velouté sauce (No. 415), reduce, season to taste, then add the beef palates, heat and thicken 
the sauce with egg-yolks and cream. Butter weil some shells (Fig. 488), besprinkle over with bread- 
crumbs and fill them with the above preparation, keeping them slightly dome-shaped on top. Cover 
with béchamel sauce (No. 409), dredge over some grated bread-crumbs and parmesan cheese, and 
pour melted butter over the top. Brown them nicely in a warm oven and arrange them ona 


napkin with green sprigs of parsley around. 


(2344), SHELLS OF CHIOKEN A LA SHAW (Coquilles de Poulet & la Shaw), 


Cook two tender chickens, each one to weigh two pounds and a half, in a white wine mirepoix 
stock (No. 419), and when done strain the stock over and let get cold in this; then suppress the 
skin, fat and bones and cut up the meat into five-eighths inch squares. Cook the livers with the 
fat skimmed from the mirepoix stock and chop them up when cold; also chop up six hard-boiled 
eggs, the yolks and whites separately. Put the chicken meat into a sautoir with the Spop ee 
livers and eggs, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place two ounces of putter in a ules 
with two ounces of flour, stir it well, then remove the saucepan from the fire and mix into it the 
stock from the chickens, having two gills of it; then boil it up, stirring continuously, and add a gill 


nee - hats --volks diluted with a little ere: rithou 
of cream; simmer the whole and thicken with six egg-yolks diluted with a little cream without 


allowing it to boil. rolling the ingredients into the sauce while tossing without using any spoon, 
5S j ’ 5 © : a8 . fe ; ieee ud Ce 
and season properly; lastly add a glassful of sherry and half a teaspoonful of lemon juice; fill 
eee . 5] - “ roe . ob tes a ast 16) J 6 ‘ 
up the shells, dredge over parmesan cheese and color in a hot oven or under the salamander 
he ; 


(Fig. 128). 


"08 THE EPICUREAN. 





(9345), SHELLS OF CHICKEN OR SWEETBREADS (Coquilles de Volaille ou de Ris de Vean), | | 


Have either some silver or china shells (Fig. 438) or else some scallop shells; butter and dredge 
over with bread-crumbs; mince some braised white meat of chicken or else sweetbreads with half a 
as many mushrooms and put it intoa sautoir; mix with velouté sauce (No. 415); let all boil, — 
then thicken with raw egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter. Fill the shells with this preparation, 
bhestrew the tops with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan, and baste with melted butter; 


brown in a brisk oven. 


(2346), SHELLS OF FISH (Coquilles de Poisson), 


Cook a prepared sea bass in a court-bouillon (No. 38), then drain, suppress the skin and bones: _ 
and only use the meat after shredding it well; reduce some velouté sauce (No. 415) with mush- 
room essence (No. 392) and the court-bouillon; season properly and thicken with egg-yolks and 
butter, then stir in the fish. Butter some shells (Fig. 488), besprinkle with bread-crumbs, fill them 
with the fish preparation, having the tops slightly dome-form; bestrew with bread-crumbs and ~ 
grated parmesan, baste over with butter, then brown in the oven; serve as soon as they have: 


attained a good color, 


(2347), SHELLS OF FROGS’ LEGS (Coquilles de Cuisses de Grenouilles), 


Fry in butter one pound of frogs’ legs without letting them acquire a color; butter some shells: 
(Fig. 438), bread-crumb the insides, and fill the bottoms with a cream béchamel (No. 411); place on. 
top cooked and minced mushrooms, and over this the boned frogs’ legs; cover with more béchamel,. 
make another bed of mushrooms and frogs, and finish with béchamel; dredge the tops with bread- 
crumbs fried in butter, set them in the oven, and when very hot and nicely browned serve at once 
on folded napkins. . 


(2348), SHELLS OF LOBSTER (Coquilles de Homard). 


Kill two two-pound lobsters by plunging them into boiling water for two minutes; break off 
the claws, and put them into a saucepan with the bodies; cover with a court-bouillon (No. 38), and 
allow the liquid to boil for twenty minutes while covered; then remove the saucepan from the fire: 
and leave the lobsters to partially cool off in this stock; drain them. Suppress the claw shells, and — 
cut the meats up into three-sixteenths of an inch squares; lay them in a small saucepan, detach. 
the tails from the bodies, rub the creamy parts of the latter through a sieve, and strain the lobster- 
stock; put this on the fire to reduce to a half-glaze, and incorporate into it slowly a quart of reduced 
béchamel sauce (No. 409); season with a pinch of cayenne pepper; the sauce should be reduced to. 
a proper degree and seasoned. Cut the lobster tails lengthwise in two, take out the meats, and 
cut them into slices; butter the insides of the shells (Fig. 488), strew over with bread-crumbs, and — 
dress the pieces of lobster crown-shaped inside of these, alternating them with a slice of truffle;. 
lay them in a sautoir, one very close to the other; add the dice-shaped pieces of lobster to the 
sauce and pour this over the contents of the shells. Besprinkle with parmesan, and color the tops, 
using a salamander (Fig. 123); then dress the shells on folded napkins in a circle, garnishing the- 
center with green parsley sprigs. 


(2349), SHELLS OF MUSSELS OR OYSTERS BAKED (Coquilles de Moules on d’Huitres au Gratin), 


Suppress the black foot (the appendage) of some mussels and cut them up into two or three: 
pieces; place these in a highly seasoned allemande sauce (No. 407); add to it chopped parsley, and 
fill the shells (Fig. 488) already buttered with this preparation; dust over with fried bread-crumbs, 
and leave them in the oven for a few minutes before serving. Oysters may be prepared exactly 
the same way. 


(2350), OYSTERS BAKED IN THEIR SHELLS (Huitres Gratinées dans leurs Coquilles), 


Open some oysters, detach them from their shells, leaving them in the deep one; pourovera little 
melted butter mixed with chopped parsley, strew the tops with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, 
and then range these shells very straight on a bed of salt spread over a baking-sheet; cook them 
ror seven or eight minutes in a moderate oven, and after taking them out wipe the bottoms of the: 
li 1s carefully, and lay them on napkins to serve. 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 709 


(2351). OYSTERS BECHAMEL IN THEIR SHELLS (Huitres Béchamel dans leurs Coquilles). 


Poach and drain three dozen oysters; fry colorless in butter three shallots, moisten with white 
wine and the oyster liquor, and dilute with béchamel sauce (No. 409). Cook and despumate: 
thicken with egg-yolks, butter, and cream; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, stirring so that 
the sauce thickens properly; then add the oysters to it, and with this fill the well-cleaned, deep 
oyster shells; sprinkle over fried bread-crumbs and butter, then brown them in the oven, 


(2352), OYSTERS ROASTED AND ENGLISH STYLE IN THEIR SHELLS (Huitres Roties et & 
lAnglaise dans leurs Coquilles), 

Lay some very clean medium-sized oysters on the broiler, on the flat side of the shell; when 
hot, turn over and lay the hollow side to the fire until they open, then take off the flat shell and 
‘serve the oysters in the hollow one, laying a small piece of fresh butter on each. 

_ For English style prepare the oysters as for roasted in shells, and instead of butter season 
them with salt, pepper, and finely chopped fresh mushrooms; add a little lean velouté sauce (No. 
416) to each, bestrew with bread-crumbs fried in butter, push in the oven for a moment and serve. 


(2353), OYSTERS IN THEIR SHELLS WITH FRIED BREAD (Huitres dans leurs Ooquilles 


Naturelles au Pain Frit), 

Heat some butter ina small saucepan; mix in with it some white bread-crumbs, stir continu- 
ously and let it get a light brown color, then remove from the fire and drain. Poach and drain 
some oysters; lay six of their natural shells on a baking sheet having an inside perforated sheet to 
hold the oysters level, or cover the bottom of the pan with a bed of salt. Take up a heaping tea- 
spoonful of the fried bread-crumbs and pour it into each shell; on top place one or two oysters 
and cover with a little well seasoned velouté sauce (No. 416); bestrew the surfaces with grated par- 
mesan and on each set a small piece of butter; push the shells into a moderate oven for five or 
Six minutes, then remove and dress in a circle on a folded napkin, with a sprig of parsley in the 
center. 


(2354), SHELLS OF SCALLOPS, PARISIAN STYLE (Coquilles de Pétoncles 4 la Parisienne), 


_Open seven or eight large scallop shells; detach the meats as well as the white and red milts, 
and poach them in a little white wine; drain and cut them into dice pieces; keep this salpicon on 
one side. Fry in butter, chopped up onions and shallots; add raw mushrooms cut in dice shape and 
ook until their moisture is evaporated, then add the prepared salpicon five or six minutes later; 
season and thicken with a good béchame! sauce (No. 409) reduced when ready to use. Boil once 
more for a few minutes without ceasing to stir; it should be quite consistent, and finish it away 
from the fire with a pinch of cayenne pepper and a piece of fresh lobster butter (No. 580). Lift 
‘this stew up. with a spoon, and with it fill the shells; cover the preparation with bread-crumbs, 
brush over with meited butter, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven. Dress the shells as 
‘soon as they are removed from the fire. 


(2355). SHELLS OF SPINAL MARROW OR BRAINS (Coquilles d’Amourettes ou de Cervelles), 


After the spinal marrow or brains have been prepared and cooked as explained in No. 1549, 
drain and cut them up in one-inch length slices, butter the interiors of either china or silver shells 
(Fig. 438), cover the insides with white bread raspings, fill the shells with the pieces of spinal marrow, 
and pour over a white Italian sauce (No. 484). Cover the tops with some well-seasoned béchamel 
sauce (No. 409), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and parmesan cheese, add a little butter, and brown 
in a hot oven. Dress them crown-shaped on a folded napkin, garnishing with sprigs of green 
parsley. ; 


(2356), SHELLS OF SQOUABS BAKED (Coquilles de Pigeonneaux Gratinées), 


After the squabs have been plucked, singed, drawn, well cleaned and boned, divide each 
one into four or six pieces, according to the size of the bird, then fry these colorless 
in butter with minced fresh mushrooms; after they are well done, pour off the fat and 
replace it by allemande sauce (No. 407), adding a little finely cut up chives. Butter some 
shells (Fig. 488), bestrew the bottoms with a little bread-crumbs and _ fill them with the 
squabs; sprinkle more bread-crumbs over mixed with grated parmesan and brown with a sala- 


710 THE EPICUREAN. 


mander or in a hot oven. Instead of bread-crumbing the tops may be covered with chicken que- 
nelle forcemeat (No. 89) and coated with butter, then breaded and browned in the oven, or els¢ 
cover the shells with a thin flat made of puff paste fragments (No. 146), egg them over twice and 
bake in a moderate oven. 


(9357), SHELLS OF VEAL OR LAMB SWEETBREADS, A LA HARPER (Ooquilles de Ris de Veau 
ou d’Agneau, & la Harper). , 


Braise unlarded sweetbreads; when cooked place them in a dish, pour over the stock and let 
get cold; merely cut them up into small three-sixteenths inch pieces, add to these half as much 
fresh mushrooms and a quarter as much unsmoked but salted red beef tongue, all cut the same 
size, and mix the pieces into some béchamel sauce (No. 409), seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. 
Butter some shells (Fig. 438), besprinkle each with bread-crumbs, fill with the above preparation 
and dust the tops with bread raspings and grated cheese; pour melted butter over and brown the 
surface toa fine color in a hot oven, then dress and serve on folded napkins. 


(2358), SHELLS OF TERRAPIN WITH HAZEL-NUTS (Coquilles de Terrapéne aux Noisettes), 


Have a thick and well-seasoned béchamel sauce (No. 409); mix in with it four ounces of 
roasted hazel-nuts pounded toa pulp with a gill of sherry wine. Butter some shells, dust over 
with bread-crumbs, and fill the bottoms with the béchamel; over this lay some boned terrapin, 
sprinkle over a little fine sherry, and pour more sauce on top; throw over some tread-crumbs: 
fried in butter and of a fine color, then set the shells in the oven, and serve when tne surfaces 
are nicely browned. : 


(2359), SOUFFLE OF CHICKEN (Souffié de Poulet), 


Have a quarter of a pound of very white roasted chicken meat, pare it free of all sinews, fat or 
skin, then pound it to a pulp with an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of béchamel sauce (No. 409): 
and two egg-yolks; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and rub the whole through : 
= a sieve; put it back into a vessel to heat, mixing in slowly 
pe two tablespoonfuls of well-drained whipped cream, then stir 


ii 


i 


"y in two very stiffly beaten egg-whites and a teaspoonful of finely 

WwW iim 6 chopped truties. Butter a souffié pan (Fig. 182) lightly, or 

Fic. 439, small paper cases (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven; fill them up 

and cook in a moderate oven; it takes about twelve or fifteen . 

minutes to cook the souffié in the pan; serve at once. Guests had better be kept waiting for a 

soufflé than to have the soufflé wait for them. It must be served immediately it leaves the oven, 
otherwise it loses its greatest merit, namely a beautiful appearance. 





(2360), SOUFFLE OF COHIOKEN A LA DELSART (Soufilé de Poulet & la Delsart). 


Pound half a pound of the white meat of a cooked chicken with two ounces of butter, two 
spoonfuls of béchamel (No. 409), and two raw egg-yolks; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 
Stiffen some buttered or oiled paper cases in the oven, and ten minutes before serving incorporate 
into the preparation two egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth, and two tablespoonfuls of well-drained, 
whipped cream; fill the cases, prepared as for soufflé of chicken (No. 2359), and place them in a 
moderately heated oven for ten to twelve minutes, then glaze them over with a brush. 


(2361). SOUFFLE OF FAT LIVERS WITH TRUFFLES (Soufflé de Foies-Gras aux Trvffes), 


Pound six ounces of fat livers with two ounces of rice thoroughly cooked in broth until per- 
fectly dry; add one whole egg, season and press the preparation through a sieve, putting the purée 
into a bowl; make it very smooth by stirring into it four spoonfuls of raw chicken quenelle force- 
meat (No. 89), and two well-beaten-up egg-whites. Fill with this some paper cases (Fig. 439) 
previously buttered and stiffened in the oven; set them in the oven for ten to twelve minutes, and 
glaze them with some light chicken glaze (No. 398), using a brush for this purpose. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 710 


(2362), SOUFFLE OF GAME A LA LUCIE (Soufflé de Gibier & la Lucie), 


Pound four ounces of cooked game meat with two ounces of rice boiled in broth until dry and: 
consistent; add two tablespoonfuls of game glaze (No. 398), two raw egg-yolks and half an ounce: 
of melted butter, then press all through a sieve, and beat the preparation thoroughly. Ten 
minutes before serving mix in half an ounce of truffles cut in one-eighth inch squares, and two: 
egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter some paper cases (Fig. 439), stiffen them in the oven, 
then fill them three-quarters full with the soufflé preparation, set them in the oven for about ten 
minutes, and when done glaze the tops with a little game glaze (No. 398) and serve without delay.. 


(2363), SOUFFLE OF LOBSTER IN CASES (oufflé de Homard en Caisses), 


Plunge a two-pound lobster into boiling water so as to kill it quickly, and when cold split it 
lengthwise in two, take out the meat from the half tails, cut it up and pound the pieces with two 
or three spoonfuls of good reduced velouté sauce (No. 415); finish with some red butter (No. 580), 
adding also a piece of fresh butter; press this through a sieve, and put the purée back into the 
mortar, and with the pestle pound it well to make it have a good, consistent body, allowing it to 
absorb very slowly three gills of good raw cream; season and finally add two spoonfuls of the 
creamy part from the bodies, a dash of cayenne pepper and two spoonfuls of whipped cream. With 
this preparation fill either some round buttered paper (No. 489), silver (No. 488) or porcelain 
eases, wiped dry and buttered; dredge over the insides with bread-crumbs and fill the cases and 
lay them on a baking sheet; push them into a slack ovenand let the preparation cook from fifteen 
to twenty minutes; it shouid be cooked in a very hot oven, otherwise it will become black. After 
taking the souffiés from the oven, glaze the surfaces with a little of the same reduced velouté 
sauce, finish with red butter (No. 580), and serve them at once. 


(2364), SOUFFLE OF PARTRIDGE A LA HAGGINS (Souflé de Perdreau a la Haggins), 


Pound half a pound of cold partridge meat to a pulp, add to it half an ounce of foies-gras, 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and put in four tablespoonfuls of game glaze (No. 398) and 
half anounce of butter; press this through a fine sieve and place the purée in a metal basin to heat 
up lightly, incorporating in slowly four raw egg-yolks and four very stiffly beaten whites. When 
the preparation is thoroughly mixed, transfer it to some small buttered paper cases (Fig. 489), 
stiffened in the oven, having them three-quarters of an inch full; push them into a slack oven fifteen 
to twenty minutes before serving; glaze over with a brush dipped in game glaze (No. 398) and serve 
them instantly they leave the oven; they must not be standing. Truffles cut in eighth of an inch 
squares may be added to the souffiés if so desired. 


(2365), SOUFFLE OF PHEASANT A LA ANDREW (Soufflé de Faisan & la Andrew). 


Take the cooked meats from a roasted pheasant, suppressing skin, bones and sinews, pound 
them to a pulp with half as much cooked rice, and also one ounce of very fresh fat liver. 
Make an essence (No. 389) with the parings; reduce half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); add 
it to the essence and when very thick put it with the pheasant pulp and strain the whole through 
a sieve into a tin basin and work well while adding some chopped truffles. Twenty-five minutes’ be- 
fore serving heat the preparation in a bain-marie and incorporate into it seven raw egg-yolks one 
by one, and three ounces of fresh butter, working it in well, and then stir in five egg-whites, 
beaten to a very stiff froth. Butter a souffié pan (Fig. 182), fill it half full with the preparation 
and push it into a slack oven; it ought to take from fifteen to twenty minutes to cook; when done, 


glaze over with game glaze (No. 398) and serve at once. 


(2366). SOUFFLE OF WOODCOCKS WITH TRUFFLES (Soufflé de Bécasses aux Truffes), 


Suppress all the meats from three roasted woodcocks and pound it to a pulp; fry the intestines 
and liver in butter, add this to the pulp and press through a sieve; dilute with a heaping spoonful 
of game glaze (No. 398) and remove from the fire; stir the preparation until it loses its greatest 
heat, then add four egg-yolks, an ounce of melted butter, an ounce of peeled truffles cut in smal} 
dice, and proper seasoning, and incorporate in slowly four beaten e g-whites, and if found necessary 
an ounce of boiled rice may also be added. Put this either into a buttered souffle pan (Fig. 182) 
or else in buttered paper cases (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven. If for cases of half a pint capacity, 


they will require fifteen minutes, but all depends upon their size. 


712 THE EPICURBAN. | 


(9367), GHIOKEN LIVERS SURTOUT WITH MUSHROOMS OR IN RICE BORDER WITH 
CURRY (Surtout de Foies de Volaille aux Champignons ou en Bordure de Riz au Kari), 


Cover the middle of a dish with a three-quarters of an inch thick layer of foies-gras forcemeat (No. 
78) and poach ina slack oven. Fry some chicken livers in butter with a little blanched shallot 
and half as much minced mushrooms as there are livers; season with salt and pepper and dilute 
with Madeira sauce (No. 492). Dress these livers on the forcemeat surtout and sprinkle chopped 
parsley over; serve very hot. | 

Ina Rice Border with Curry.—Make an Indian rice (No. 1872) border, dress on a hot dish 
and fill the center with fried chieken livers the same as the above, adding some curry powder. 


(2368), WILD PIGEON SURTOUT, BAKED (Surtout de Pigeons Ramiers, au Gratin). 

After the pigeons have been picked, singed and nicely cleaned, cut them lengthwise in two, 
then trim, removing the legs anda part of the backbone; season and fry in butter till three- 
quarters done, drain off the butter, cover with velouté sauce (No. 415) thickening with raw egg- 
yolks anda little fresh butter; leave the sautoir on the fire and roll the pigeons in until well mingled 
with the sauce. Spread in the middle of an oval baking dish a half-inch thick layer of godiveau 
(No. 84); place the pigeons on top and pour the sauce over; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and 
grated cheese, baste with butter and brown in a hot oven or with a salamander (Fig. 128). 


(2369), BEEF TART OR PIE A LA PEREZ (Tarte de Beuf & la Perez), 

These pies are made in deep china dishes (Fig. 183), suitable to.be put in the oven. Butter 
the bottom of the dish and garnish it witha thin layer of finely minced onions; over this put a layer 
of cooked potatoes cut into thin slices, and on top of the potatoes a thick layer of slices of tenderloin 
of beef; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chopped-up mushrooms; set a few 
whole egg-yolks here and there, then cover with another layer of onions and potatoes, both minced 
fine. The dish should now be quite full of the dressing, and dome-shaped on top. Roll out some 
cuttings of puff paste (No. 146) to an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut from it a band half an 
inch in width and sufficiently long to reach around the edge of the dish; wet the edge, and set the 
band over it, moisten and cover the whole with a rolled-out flat of the same paste an eighth of an 
inch in thickness; press down the paste on to the band, at the bottom of the dome, and cut away 
the superfluous paste all around the dish, outside the edge; then with a small knife cut grooves 
into the band through its thickness. Make a hole in the center of the dome in the paste, decorate 
around this with imitation leaves made of paste, brush it twice with beaten egg, and set the pie on 
a baking sheet. Cook it for an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven, and should it threaten to 
brown too soon cover with sheets of wet paper, and when ready to serve pour into the pie an 
espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with some clear gravy (No. 404). Set it on a dish over a folded 
napkin. 


(2370). CHICKEN TART OR PIE A LA MANHATTAN (Tarte de Poulet 4 la Manhattan), 

Have two young chickens, singe, draw and cut them up into six or eight pieces; lay them in a 
saucepan containing small blanched onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf; moisten 
with stock (No. 194a), cook slowly and thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579). Fill the bottom of 
a deep pie dish (Fig. 188) with peeled and pressed halved tomatoes, cover with a layer of lightly 
parboiled fried bacon cut into three-quarters of an inch pieces; season with salt, mignonette and 
nutmeg, and range the chicken on top with potato balls five-eighths of an inch in diameter and 
boiled in salted water, also the small onions. Chop up four ounces of veal and three ounces of 
fat pork; season with salt, nutmeg and pepper; pound in the mortar and rub through a sieve; to 
this forcemeat add two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), an ounce of bread-crumbs 
and one whole egg; roll this on a floured table into three-quarter inch balls and drop them here and 
there while putting the chicken in the dish. Moisten the edge of the dish, place on a small band 
made of puff paste parings half an inch wide and one-eighth of an inch thick; moisten this and cover 
with a flat of puff paste parings; pinch the edges together, cut away all the surplus from around the 


edge of the dish, egg over twice and bake in a moderate oven for half or three-quarters of an hour, 
then serve. 


(2371) CHICKEN TART OR PIE A LA RIGOLO (Tarte de Poulet & la Rigolo), 
Cut up a pound and a half young chicken into four pieces, bone these and season with salt and 


pepper; sauté them colorless in butter with fresh mushrooms and a tablespoonful of onion, 
each chopped up separately; when the whole is fried add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 713 


and moisten with stock (No. 194a); boil, skim and simmer until thoroughly cooked, then add 
some imitation cocks’-combs made of beef’s palate and cocks’ kidneys, a broiled sliced sausage 
having the skin removed and the gizzard cooked and cut in quarter-inch squares, seasoning with 
salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Make a few quenelles with the chopped chicken livers, season 
well and mix in some bread-crumbs and raw egg-yolk; roll this preparation into balls, three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter. Fill a deep pie dish (Fig. 183) with the above chicken stew, 
dropping the balls among it, also some small hard-boiled egg-yolk balls; finish the pie the same 
as pie & la Manhattan (No. 2370). 


(2372), CHICKEN TART OR PIE, AUSTRALIAN STYLE (Tarte de Poulet & l’Australienne). 


Singe, draw and cleanse well some young chickens, cut them up into eight pieces: two wings, 
two thighs, two backs and two breastbones; fry these colorless in butter, moisten with stock (No. 
194a), season and cook slowly while covered; remoisten several times, then add some allemande 
sauce (No. 407); garnish the bottom of a pie dish (Fig. 193) with slices of fried ham, lay the chicken 
on top, intercalating the pieces with small hard-boiled egg-yolks, chopped-up raw mushrooms and 
fine herbs; pour the sauce over and cover with a layer of chicken forcemeat (No. 73). Make a flat 


of puff paste parings, lay it over the top, pinch the edges, egg the surface twice and decorate with 


puff paste leaves; bake the pie in a hot oven for thirty to forty minutes. 


(2373), LAMB MINION FILLET TART OR PIE A LA MANNING (Tarte de Filets Mignons 
d’Agneau & la Manning), 

Remove the fat and sinews from some yearling lamb fillets, wrap them up in thin slices of veal 
suet, and roast till rare, then cut them into escalops and range the pieces in a buttered deep pie dish 
(Fig. 183), intercalating the thin slices of suet with the slices of fillet. Fry in butter some cut-up 
shallot, add to it mushrooms and chopped parsley, and moisten with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) 
and good gravy (No. 404); pour this over the fillets and cover the edge of the dish with a band of puff 
paste, and the top with a flat of the same rolled to an eighth of an inch thickness; stick this to the 
band of paste, egg the surface and cook it for one hour in a moderately heated oven. After with- 
<irawing the pie from the fire, make an opening in the middle of the upper crust, and fill the 
inside with a brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) finished with mushroom essence (No. 392). 


(2374), LOBSTER TART OR PIE A LA A. HERAULT (Tarte de Homard & la A. Hérault), 


Boil two two-pound lobsters in a court-bouillon (No. 38); drain, and let get cold; detach the 
tails and claws; remove all the creamy parts and rub them through a fine sieve, then pick the meat 
from the tails and claws, and cut them into slices. Partly fry two ounces of shallot cut into one- 
eighth of an inch squares, with two ounces of butter; when partially fried add half a pound of 
chopped fresh mushrooms, and let fry together; pour in a quart of allemande sauce (No. 407), 
season with salt, nutmeg and cayenne, also chopped parsley, and mix well, adding the creamy 
parts and the pieces of lobster; transfer all this into a deep pie dish (Fig. 183), and set on the edge, 
slightly dampened, a narrow puff paste (No. 146) band, and over all a layer of puff paste fragments; 
cut it away evenly all around the outer edge, and decorate the top with leaves made of paste; pinch 
the edges around the pie, and egg over the surface twice, then cook it for twenty to thirty minutes 


in a hot oven, and serve as soon as it is done. 


(9375), LEG OF MUTTON TART OR PIE, CANADIAN (Tarte de Gigot de Mouton @ la Cana- 


dienne), 


Butter the interior of a pie dish (Fig. 183); range on the bottom some blanched salt pork and 
slices of mutton from the leg; on top lay a bed of potatoes, baked in the oven, peeled and cut in 
slices; season each layer with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chopped onions fried in. 
butter, and pour a little good clear gravy (No. 404) over. Wet the edges of the dish, lay ona 
narrow band of paste, moisten and cover the whole with a flat of puff paste fragments, decorating 
the top with devices of the same paste, egg it over twice, and bake in a moderate oven for an 


hour and a quarter. 


(9376), OYSTER TART OR PIE, SMITH STYLE (Tarte aux Huitres & la Smith), 


Poach in their own liquor three dozen medium oysters, drain and remove the muscles or liga- 
f butter, four ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, 


ments. Fryin two ounces 0 | . 
same size, and half a pound of peeled and seedless tomatoes cut into 


two ounces of onions cut the 


714 THE EPICUREHAN. 


five-eighths of an inch pieces; add the oyster liquor, reduce the whole with a pint of velouté sauce 
(No. 415), and when well done and seasoned nicely, add the oysters. Place all of this into a deep 
pie dish (Fig. 183), and lay on the edge, after slightly wetting it, a narrow band of puff paste (No. 
146) an eighth of an inch thick and half an inch wide; moisten the top of this band, and cover 
the whole with a layer of paste made of fragments of puff paste; cut away the extending edges, and 
decorate the top with bits of the paste rolled out to one-eighth of an inch in thickness; pinch the 
edges round the border, and egg over the surface twice, then cook the pie in a hot oven for twenty 
to thirty minutes, and serve on a folded napkin. Either salt or smoked bacon can be used. 


(2377), PIGEON TART A LA BRITANNIA (Tarte de Pigeons a la Britannia), 


Singe three clean pigeons; divide each one in two parts, beat, remove the surplus bones with- 
out boning them, then season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Cover the bottom of a pie 
dish (Fig. 188) with thin slices of bacon, bestrew with a spoonful of onion, and one of mushrooms 
both chopped separately, range the halved pigeons in the dish intermingled with more slices of bacon, 
and afew hard-boiled eggs cut in two; bring it toa dome. Poura few spoonfuls of good clear gravy 
(No. 404) into the bottom of the dish; cover with a layer of half paste the same as for the beef 
pie No. 2369. Decorate the summit, egg over, and cook for an hour and a quarter in a slack oven, 
covering with paper should it threaten to burn. 


(2378), LOIN OF PORK TART OR PIE—ENGLISH STYLE (Tarte de Longe de Pore a l’Anglaise), 


Have a loin of fresh pork, bone, remove the fat and cut from it slices three-eighths of an inch 
thick; beat to flatten slightly, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Butter the inside of a pie 
dish (Fig. 188) and lay over some thin slices of raw salted and smoked ham, seasoning with 
prepared red pepper (No. 168), chopped shallot and onions; on this place a bed of raw sliced 
potatoes, and the pieces of meat above, dropping sage leaves here and there; pour a little good 
cold gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish; moisten the edge with a brush dipped in water, 
lay on it a band of paste an eighth of an inch thick and half an inch wide; wet the top of this 
slightly and cover the pie with a layer of foundation paste (No. 1385) or puff paste parings, having 
it an eighth of an inch in thickness; adhere this on the band, cut away all the surplus paste from 
the outside and make deep marks all around with the back of a knife: egg the surface twice 
and cut a hole in the:center. Cook this pie in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter more or 
less, according to its size; this time being allowed for one containing a pound and a quarter of 
meat and potatoes. 


(2379), RABBIT TART OR PIE WITH FINE HERBS (Tarte de Lapin aux Fines Herbes), 


Suppress the skin from two good rabbits; draw and wipe well the meats; separate them at the 
joints, bone the shoulders and the legs, decrease the size of the backbones without boning then 
entirely and split each one in two. With the necks, bones and a few game parings, make a smail 
fumet (No. 397) with white wine. Cut halfa pound of bacon into small slices; put them ina 
sautoir with butter, and heat for five minutes while stirring, then remove with a skimmer, 
leaving the fat in the pan, and into this throw two spoonfuls each of onions, shallots and mush- 
rooms; fry together for two minutes, then add the pieces of rabbit; season highly, being sparing 
of the salt, and besprinkle with pulverized wild thyme. Cover the bottom of a pie dish (Fig. 183) 
intended for the oven with a layer of the bacon; on this place the pieces of rabbit, intermingling 
them with the fine herbs and bacon; pour into the bottom a few spoonfuls of the prepared fumet 
reduced to nearly half-glaze. Wet the edges of the dish, cover it with a thin band of puff paste 
fragments (No. 146) or fine foundation paste (No. 135); wet this band also. Cover the whole with a 
flat of puff paste parings, cut off the surplus around the edge of the dish, egg over twice and cook 


for an hour and a quarter in a slowoven; make a hole on the top and pour in the remainder of the 
fumet. 


(2380), VEAL TART OR PIE ALA DICKINSON (Tarte de Veau & la Dickinson), 


Suppress all the fat and sinews from a kernel of veal; cut it up into thin slices, having them an 
inch and a half in diameter. Butter a pie dish (Fig. 183) that can go into the oven; set slices of bacon 
and ham on the bottom, and over these the sliced veal, alternated; season with salt, pepper and pars- 
ley; add finely cut-up potatoes, chopped shallots or onions, then continue to fill with the same untik 





_the top. Fill the inside of the timbale with a well-pared boneless 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 715 


the dish is quite full and well rounded on top; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom, 
lay a small band made of puff paste parings on the edge of the dish, and a flat of the same paste on. 
top; cut away the surplus paste around the dish, decorate and egg the pie over twice; bake it in 
a medinm oven for one hour and a half for a dish containing a quart. 


(2381), TIMBALE A LA NANTAISE (Timbale & la Nantaise), 


Line a timbale mold the same as for No. 2383, cook it lightly, and when removed from the 
oven, unmold, open on the cut end, empty it of its contents, and keep warm. Prepare a garnish- 
Ing composed of a few dozen poached oysters or else crawfish tails or red shrimps (either of them 
shelled), or slices of cooked lobster-tail meat, four ounces of peeled truffles previously cooked in 






































Madeira wine, and a few dozen small salmon quenelles rolled on a floured table and poached. 


_ Range these garnishings in a sautoir and keep them well covered. Put on to reduce a few gills of 


good béchamel (No. 409), stir slowly into it the oyster broth, also a few spoonfuls of good court- 
bouillon (No. 38) reduced to a half-glaze; finish the sauce with a pinch of cayenne pepper 
and lobster butter (No. 580) and a handful of grated parmesan. Cover the garnishings with this 
sauce, set them in layers in the timbale, alternating with the remainder of the sauce; close the 
top with the removed lid and serve at once. 


(2382), TIMBALE OF CHICKEN, PARISIAN STYLE—LARGE (Grosse Timbale de Poulet a la 
Parisienne), 


Butter a cold oval timbale mold, decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles and cover this decora- 
tion with a layer of consistent chicken quenelle forcemeat, having 
it half an inch deep at the base and diminishing the thickness toward 


chicken fricassée (No. 1861), into which mix a Toulouse garnishing 
(No. 766), having both thoroughly cold. Cover the top with a layer 
of forcemeat and place the mold in a saucepan containing boiling 
water, withdraw it to one side at the first boil and finish cooking the Fig, 442. 

timbale in a slack oven. Let it rest for fifteen minutes after 

removal, then unmold and pour around a little velouté sauce (No. 415) with essence of truffles 
(No. 396); serve more of this sauce separately. 





(2383), TIMBALE FOR EPIOURES (Timbale des Epicures), 


Butter a large timbale mold (Fig. 441) slightly wider on top than on the bottom; cover the bottom. 
with apiece of paper and line with rather thick timbale paste (No. 150). With the tip of a small knife 
cut all round the bottom paste (Fig. 441), following the outlines of the sides in a way not to decrease the 
thickness; leave the cut piece of paste in its same position, then cover the bottom and sides with but- 
tered paper and fill the timbale with common flour; close the opening firstly with a round of paper, 
then witha flat of the same paste; stand it on a small baking sheet and cook for three-quarters of an 
hour ina slack oven. After removing it from the fire, allow to cool for a few moments, then invert 
it on a baking sheet to open on the cut side, and empty out the contents; take off the paper and keep 
the timbale for five minutes at the oven door, glaze it with a brush and fasten it on to the center of a 
dish, then with a cornet filled with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75) forma garland all around the 
upper edge; leave the timbale in a warm heater to poach this border slightly. Place in a saucepan. 
a garnishing composed of fine cocks’-combs, round truffles and very white and uniform mushroom 
heads; baste with two or three spoonfuls of good chicken stock (No. 188), cover the saucepan and 


716 THE HEPICUREHAN: 


keep it in a bain-marie. In another saucepan place a garnishing of cooked beef fries cut in inch 
and a half length slices; mix with these an equal quantity of large Italian macaroni, cooked till tender 
and cut into the same lengths as the fries; add also the same quantity of large fillets of cooked 
tongue cut likewise, and mingle these ingredients with some good béchamel (No. 409) reduced with 













































































Fia. 443. 


the mushroom broth, raw cream and melted meat glaze (No. 402). Heat the stew on a slow fire, stir- 
ring it unceasingly and not allowing the sauce to boil and incorporate into it apiece of fresh butter 
and a handful of parmesan. Now take the timbale from the heater, fill it up with the stew and on 
top dress the garnishing of the truffles, combs and mushrooms laid in the shape of a dome; cover 
these with two or three spoonfuls of good light velouté sauce (No. 415), and serve the timbale at 
once. 


(2384), TIMBALE OF FILLETS OF SOLES ‘A LA GAULOISE (Timbale de Filets de Soles & la 
Gauloise), 


Fill the timbale paste, prepare and cook a case as explained in No. 2383. After the case is 
taken from the oven open it on the cut to empty. Glaze the inside with a brush, and dress it on 
a dish; keep it warm ina heater. Poach the fillets of sole in butter, salt and lemon juice; set 
them under a light weight, pare and keep them warm likewise. Add to a well-reduced allemande 
sauce (No. 407) some minced truffles and mushroom heads; fill the timbale with a layer of sole on 
top of the truffles and mushrooms, then more sole, and continue the operation until the timbale 
is entirely filled. Garnish around with Milanese macaroni croquettes, and the top with trussed 
‘crawfish. 

Milanese Macaroni Croquettes are to be made with cooked macaroni cut into half-inch lengths 
and mingled with allemande sauce (No. 407), adding a salpicon of tongue, truffles and mushrooms; 
when cold dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry in hot frying fat. 


(2385), TIMBALE OF LOBSTER A LA D'AUMALE (Timbale de Homard & la d’Aumale), 


After a lobster has been cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), drain, and lay it aside to get cold; 
then pick out the meat and cut it up into escalops, not having them too thick—about a pound alto- 
gether; add to these slices two medium-sized blanched oysters after suppressing the hard parts; add 
also half a pound of mushrooms and four ounces of truffles. Butter with unmelted butter a half 
spherical, plain, round oroval mold; decorate it with fanciful cuts of truffles, and keep the decoration 
in place with a thick pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) mixed with lobster coral; fill up the inside with 
the above preparation, and finish with more forcemeat. Poach it in a slack oven for three-quarters 


to one hour; unmold, and serve separately a béchamel sauce (No. 409), with lobster butter (No. 
580) added to it. 


(2386), TIMBALE OF PULLET (Timbale de Poularde), 


Cut each of two pullets into five pieces, and five ounces of bacon into thin squares; 
warm these in a saucepan with some butter, then add the pieces of chicken, and fry them while 
tossing; season, put in the livers and three or four peeled and sliced truffles. When the 
chickens are partly done moisten them with a little white wine and reduce quickly; then pour the 
stew into atureen. Butter a timbale mold, bestrew chopped noodles over the sides and bottom, 
and then line it with fine paste (No. 142); cover the sides and bottoms with veal chopped force- 
meat (No. 65), finished with a few cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Pour the stew into the timbale, 
icaving as little empty space as possible, and ‘covering over with a flat of the same paste; fasten 





MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. Wt 


this to the edge, and egg over the whole, then push the timbale into a moderate oven to cook for 
one hour. After removing it cut a small opening in the middle of the crust, and pour in a few 
spoonfuls of good half-glaze sauce (No. 413); close the opening and invert the timbale on a dish to. 
serve. 


(2387), TIMBALE OF SQUABS A LA BERCHOUX (Timbale de Pigeonneaux & la Berchoux), 


Draw, singe and clean six squabs, then cut them each in four. Line atwo-quart buttered tim- 
bale mold with foundation or short paste (No. 135); coat it over with a layer of chicken quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89) three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness. Melt fourounces of grated fat pork in 
a saucepan with as much lean bacon cut into quarter-inch squares; add the squabs, and fry the: 
whole together over a bright fire. When the squabs are nicely browned, drain off the fat and 
moisten with a quarter of a bottle of white wine, then reduce, add some espagnole sauce (No. 414), 
and season to taste, adding half a pound of small mushroom heads, and four ounces of minced 
truffies, then let the whole get cold. Fill up the timbale with separate layers of squabs, mush- 
rooms, bacon, and sauce, and cover over with more quenelle forcemeat, and besides this a lid of puff 
oaste (No. 146); cook in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is done, remove it from the fire, 
dress, take off the lid, and pour in some espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Madeira; serve the 
timbale very hot. Instead of cutting the squabs in two, they may be boned and stuffed with 
delicate chicken quenelle forcemeat, then laid in oval-shaped rings and braised, finishing them as. 
for the others. 


(2388), TIMBALB OF SWEETBREADS, MODERN—LARGE (Grosse Timbale de Ris de Veau 4 la. 
Moderne). 


Butter a large oval mold as for timbale a la Parisian (No. 2382), allowing one quart for 
eight persons; decorate the bottom and sides with fanciful cuts of truffles, and hold these up 
with a thick layer of solid chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89.) Cut up in half-inch 
squares one pound of braised, unlarded sweetbreads that have been left to cool in their 
stock, also as much cooked lean ham. Put four ounces of butter into a sautoir with two 
ounces of onion cut in small one-eighth of an inch squares, and when done without browning add 
four ounces of minced fresh mushrooms; when these have evaporated their moisture add the sweet- 
breads and ham; season and moisten with two gills of Madeira; let the latter reduce entirely, then pour 
in some brown sauce (No. 414) and the sweetbread braise stock; reduce once more and transfer the 
whole to a dish to get cold. Fill the timbale mold with this preparation; spread a half inch thick 
layer of forcemeat on a sheet of buttered paper, having it the same size as the timbale, turn 
over the sheet to fasten the forcemeat to the forcemeat in the timbale; attach it well to the top; 
poach the timbale by placing it in boiling water that reaches halfway up; boil this and push the 
timbale into a slack oven for an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, or until the forcemeat 
be perfectly firm; remove the paper, unmold on a dish and pour around a Madeira sauce (No. 492), 
serving more of it in a sauce-boat. . 


(2389), TIMBALE OF YOUNG HARE (Timbale de Levraut). 


Bone a young hare, cut it up into sixteen pieces, and put these into a saucepan with melted 
fat pork, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and half a pound of bacon cut in half-inch squares 
and blanched. Fry these meats over a good fire, season with salt and spices, and when well stiff- 
ened throw in a pound of medium-sized mushrooms turned and channeled (No. 118), also a glass- 
ful of white wine; cover the saucepan, reduce the liquid quickly and leave till cold. Butter a plain 
timbale mold six inches in diameter by six inches high, strew the bottom with a handful of 
freshly and finely cut-up noodle paste (No. 142), or else pretty pieces cut out with a column 
tube; apply them all over the inside surface, wetting lightly with water, then line the mold 
with foundation paste (No. 135), having it rolled out very thin; now cover the bottom and 
sides with a thin layer of chopped game forcemeat (No. 67). Fill the timbale with the hare and 
some game quenelles (No. 733) intermingled; cover with a layer of the same forcemeat and over 
this a round flat of the paste, attaching it to the lower one at the edge. Place the timbale ona 
small baking sheet and push it into a moderate oven to cook for one hour and a quarter; after 
removing from the oven, invert it on a dish, make a hole in the center and pour into the inside a 
brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and game fumet (No. 397) made with the hare parings. 
and the mushroom peelings, then strained through a tammy. 


718 THE EPICUREAN.. 


(9390). TOURTE OF PALATE OF BEEF, PARISIAN STYLE (Tourte de Palais de Bouf 4 la 
Parisienne), 


Prepare, cook and press the palates of beef as described in a la béchamel (No. 1326), then cut 
them in one and a half inch squares. Heat half a pound of lard, brown in it two ounces 
of finely chopped onions, and half a pound of chopped mushrooms; add the palates, season 
with salt, pepper, chopped chives and parsley; drain off the grease, and add to it half its quantity 
of godiveau forcemeat (No. 82) quenelles and increase the garnishing by adding an espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) finished with Madeira. Prepare an empty tart, ancient style (No. 174); when the tart is 
done, raise up the cover, remove the paper pad, and fill the interior with the above garnishing, and 
replace the cover before serving. 


(2391), TOURTE OF CHICKEN (Tourte de Poulet), 


Divide two small chickens into eight pieces each, suppressing all the bones. Melt in a 
sautoir three or four spoonfuls of chopped fat pork; add to it a quarter of a pound of bacon 
cut in large dice and fry these for four or five minutes; lift them out with a skimmer, leaving the 
fat in the sautoir, and into it put three spoonfuls of chopped shallot and onion; fry colorless, then 
add double the same quantity of chopped mushrooms, and as soon as these have evaporated their 
humidity, put in the chickens, a bunch of parsley and aromatic herbs; fry together and at the end 
of ten minutes put back the bacon, and when the meats are half cooked moisten with half a glass- 
ful of dry white wine; let reduce quickly toa glaze and pour over two or three spoonfuls of half-glaze 
sauce, then take out the meats and let get cold. Prepare about a pound of chicken godiveau (No. 
82). Lay on a pie dish (Fig. 183)a rather thick layer of foundation paste (No. 135), having it eight 
inches in diameter; in the center spread a layer of the chicken godiveau six and a half inches in 
diameter; on this place the chickens, dressing them in a dome, and adding a few cooked mush- 
rooms; then cover the entire dome with the remainder of the godiveau; wet the lower flat at the 
base of the dome and cover over with a large layer of puff paste (No. 146), press it on to the lower 
one and fasten the two together, decreasing the thickness, then cut very round. Wet the 
top layer and lay on the free surface around the dome a band of puff paste made in six turns, 
haying it three-eighths of an inch thick; fasten the two ends, cut bias together, and wet this over; 
decorate the dome with fanciful cuts of paste, egg it over, as well as the bands of puff paste, and 
cook the tart in a moderate oven for forty minutes. After taking it out slip it on to a large dish 
and cut off one-third of the top of the dome to open it, and pour in a few spoonfuls of half-glaze 
sauce (No. 413), having more in a sauce-boat, and adding to it a few cooked mushrooms. Pigeon 
or rabbit tarts can be prepared the same. 


(2392), TOURTE OF FILLETS OF SOLES A LA FINANOIERE (Tourte de Filets de Soles & la 
Financiére). | 
Make a band tart the same as explained in No. 178; remove and detach it from the baking 
sheet, dress on a dish and keep warm. Cook five or six well-pared sole fillets in butter, having them 
seasoned and cut into escalops, laying them in a sautoir with sliced truffles, a few dozen poached 





oysters and small fish quenelles (No. 90) molded with a small coffeespoon (No. 155), then poached; 
add some good lean velouté sauce (No. 416), reduced with the broth from the truffles, mushrooms 
and oysters. Dress this garnishing in a dome inthe empty tart, ornament the surface with two sole 
filets decorated with truffles, two large cooked crawfish, their tails shelled, and four large quenelles 
each one having a truffle lozenge placed on the center. Between the quenelles and the fillets lay a 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 719 


mushroom head, turned (No. 118) and cooked very white; on top place a small round scooped-out 
quenelle, and on this a round peeled truffle; glaze this truffle and the fillets of sole, cover the 
mushrooms with a little velouté sauce-and serve more of it as a este sauce. 


(2393), TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FLUKES OR SMELTS—STREAKED (Turban ce Filets de 


Carrelets ou VEperlans, Bigarrés), 

Raise the four fillets, peel off the skin, cut them lengthwise in two, then into slices, having 
them six inches long by one wide; make bias incisions on.half the thickness, and set into every one 
a thin slice of truffle. With a fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) make a crown-shaped border, 
rounded on the top, using mold (Fig. 139); lay on it the streaked slices slanting in such a way as to 
cover thesurfaces so that the truffles are seen on top; lay over strips of buttered paper, and cook 
this turban in a slack oven; drain off the butter and fill up the empty space with mushrooms, 
truffles and oyster kernels, cover with an allemande sauce (No. 407) reduced with cream and well 
buttered, and lay a garnishing of fried milts around the turban. 


(2394), TURBAN OF LOBSTERS GARNISHED WITH SHELLS (Turban de Homards Garni de 
Coquilles), 


Kill the lobsters by plunging them into boiling water for one minute; suppress the tail shells 
and cut up the tail meat into transversal slices a quarter of an inch thick, and dress them crown- 
shaped on a ring made of raw pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), alternating each slice with one of 
truffles and mushrooms; cover this crown with a velouté sauce (No. 416) well-reduced with court 
bouillon and wine (No. 419); dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, and 
besprinkle with butter; brown it in the oven and then garnish the center of the turban with a gar- 
nishing of mushrooms; pour over these a lobster sauce (No. 488) with some cayenne pepper 
added, and garnish around the turban with small shells filled with lobster and cream béchamel. 
Prepare as follows: Put into a bowl half a pound of lobster meat cut in quarter-inch squares, and 
the third of its quantity of cooked mushrooms cut exactly the same. Reduceapint of béchamel 
sauce (No. 409) with some of the mushroom broth and cream; mix it in with the salpicon, season. 
with nutmeg, salt and cayenne pepper, and use this preparation to fill some scallop or silver shells 
(Fig. 438) previously buttered and bread-crumbed; when they are all full, strew over more bread- 
crumbs and parmesan, besprinkle with butter, and brown them in a hot oven, or else with a red- 
hot shovel, or under a gas salamander (Fig. 123). 


: (2395), VOL-AU-VENT A LA DIEPPOISE (Vol-au-vent & la Dieppoise). 


For this there must be prepared a vol-au-vent crust, as explained in No. 180; remove the 
cover to empty it out thoroughly, then keep it warm, or if it has been made some time beforehand 
just heat it in a slow oven for a few minutes. Reduce some lean velouté sauce (No. 416), 
then thicken it with egg-yolks. fresh butter and lemon juice, strain through a tammy and keep it 
in a bain-marie; add to it some cooked mussels, some fish (sole) quenelles, mushrooms and shrimps. 
When all is very hot, fill the crust, cover with the lid and serve. 


(2396), VOL-AU-VENT A LA FINANCIERE (Vol-au-vent & la Financitre), 
Prepare a vol-au-vent crust as explained in No. 180; when cooked lift off the cover, empty 





Fig. 445. 


out the interior and keep it warm. Prepare a garnishing of whole peeled truffles, turned 
and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118), cocks’-combs and quenelles, as many of one as of 


720 ‘THE EPICUREAN. 


the other, and enough to fill the crust; put this garnishing into a sautoir and mingle in a financiére 
sauce (No. 464). When very hot pour it into the crust, dressing the cocks’-combs in a circle, and 


inside of this the truffles and mushrooms, haying a fine braised, larded and well-glazed sweetbread. 


on top. The financiére garnishing can be replaced by a Toulouse (No. 766) or Aquitaine (No. 640) 


garnishing. 


(2397), VOL-AU-VENT A LA NESLE (Vol-au-vent & la Nesle), 


Take some well-buttered allemande sauce (No. 407) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392);. 
add to it some chicken quenelles made of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) moided with a. 
coffeespoon (No. 155), small turned and cooked mushrooms and cooked lean ham cut in three- 
eighth inch squares. When both the garnishing and crust are very hot fill up in layers alternated 
with slices of calf’s brains cooked when ready to use and then welldrained. Decorate the top with. 


fine trussed crawfish, and serve. 


(2398), VOL-AU-VENT, ANCIENT STYLE—LARGE (Gros Vol-au-vent 4 1’Ancienne), 


Reduce some velouté sauce (No. 415) with sweetbread stock, and thicken it with egg-yolks; run: 
it through a tammy, and mix in with this sauce some godiveau quenelles (No. 155, Fig. 81), 
medium-sized mushroom heads, cocks’-combs, slices of liver, and minced truffles. Fill the crust, 
as explained in ala financiére (No. 2396), with this very hot garnishing, and replace the cover 
by small, pretty kernels of sweetbreads and trussed crawfish. 


(2399), CHICKEN VOL-AU-VENT WITH MUSHROOMS—LARGE (Gros Vol-au-vent de Volaille aux 
Champignons), 


Prepare the crust as for the financiére (No. 2396), reduce some velouté sauce (No. 415) 
with mushroom stock, and when done thicken with raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream, 
then incorporate a piece of fresh butter, pass it through a tammy, and add to this sauce 
some braised white of chicken free of skin, sinews, or fat, and half the same quantity of mushroom 
heads or cut-up mushrooms. When the crust is very hot, also the garnishing, fill and lay the 
cover over, then serve. The chicken may be replaced by braised sweetbreads or spring lamb,, 
either of which should be well pared and cut in slices. | 


(2400). SALT CODFISH VOL-AU-VENT—LARGE (Gros Vol-au-vent de Morue Salée), 


Cut some salted codfish in two-inch pieces, pare them evenly, and lay in cold water to soak for 
twenty-four hours, changing the water every six hours; the last change must be slightly tepid. 
When ready to cook put it into a saucepan containing cold water; bring this slowly to a boiling 
point and leave for three-quarters of an hour without allowing it to actually boil; drain, take off 
all the skin and bones, and then shred it in flakes; put these in a saucepan with cream béchamel. 
sauce (No. 411). With this prepared fish fill a vol-au-vent crust the same as described in No. 
180, dress it on a very hot dish, and serve. 

It can also be prepared with eggs, adding to the fish hard-boiled eggs and finely chopped: 
parsley and chives. | . 


(2401), VOL-AU-VENT OF FROGS AND SOUBISE EGGS (Vol-au-vent de Grenouilles et d’Cufs: 
Soubise). 
Prepare the vol-au-vent crust as in No. 180. - Fry colorless in a pan with butter some: 
frogs’ legs; drain, bone, and lay them in a saucepan. Boil some eggs for eight minutes 
to have them very hard; shell and cut lengthwise in two, then across in two; add them to: 
the frogs’ legs, and also some well-buttered soubise sauce (No. 543); butter it well, heat all very 
slowly, and then fill the vol-au-vent crust, placing the removed coyer on top. 


(2402), VOL-AU-VENT OF OYSTERS (Vol-au-vent d’Huitres), 

Prepare either one large or sufficient small vol-au-vent (No. 180). Poach a few dozen large 
oysters in white wine and their own liquor. and when well drained, pare and lay them in a small 
saucepan. On the other hand, put on to reduce two gills of good béchamel sauce (No. 409), in- 
corporating into it slowly a part of the oyster juice, and when the sauce is considerably reduced and 
thick, finish it with a little cream; pour this over the oysters, and heat them in a _ bain-marie: 
(Fig. 122) without allowing them to boil; at the last moment fill the vol-au-vent with this prepared. 
garnishing, and serve very hot. 


MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. _ 721 


(2403), VOL-AU-VENT A LA DELMONTES—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent & la Delmontes), 


These small vol-au-vent are prepared the same as explained in No. 180. Prepare also a brown 
espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Marsala wine, into which mix equal parts of cooked unsmoked beef 
tongue, cut in balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter with a vegetable Spoon, foies-gras quenelles 
made with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) of the same size, or else replace these by marrow quenelles 
(No. 353) of the same diameter, small mushrooms and the cutaneous part of a calf’s head cut 
the same size; properly heat the whole, and fill the small vol-au-vent crusts with it; on each one 
place a round quarter-inch in diameter slice of calf’s brains breaded and fried, over this a stuffed 
Spanish olive (No. 695), and the whole surmounted by a ball of truffle glazed over with meat glaze. 


(2404), VOL-AU-VENT A LA LUCINI—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent 2 la Lucini), 


Prepare the small vol-au-vent (No. 180): when cooked take off the covers, empty out the insides 
and replace these covers by a game quenelle (No. 91) one inch and a half in diameter by an 
eighth of an inch thick; poach and bread-crumb them by dipping them in Villeroi sauce (No. 
560), then rolling them in bread-crumbs, then fry to a good color. Put into a saucepan some brown 
sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine; add to this some game fumet (No. 397) mixed witha garnishing 
composed of two-thirds of small young rabbit quenelles (No. 91) molded in a small coffeespoon 
(No. 155) and one-third of small turned mushroom heads (No. 118), or in case there be no small 
ones then cut-up others in two or four pieces. With this garnishing fill the small crusts, lay the 
Villeroi quenelle on top and in the center of it a round slice of truffle one inch in diameter and 
glaze over. 


(2405), VOL-AU-VENT OF OYSTERS ALA MAINTENON—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent d’Huitres 
| & la Maintenon), 


Set into a saucepan some fresh butter and lemon juice, place it over a hot fire, and add to it 
some fine raw oysters; after poaching and draining them cut them into pieces, return to the sauce- 
pan and season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and then add some pike quenelles (No. 90); 
also some cut-up truffles and mushrooms; add a little velouté sauce (No. 415) and thicken it just 
when ready to serve with raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream and fine butter. Fili the small 
vol-au-vent crusts with this, keeping all very warm, put on the cover and serve on a folded napkin. 


: (2406, VOL-AU-VENT, PARISIAN STYLE—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent a la Parisienne). 


Have a brown (No. 414) or Madeira sauce (No. 492) and add to it some half-inch squares of 
veal or lamb sweetbreads, stoned olives cut in four, turned mushrooms (No. 118) and small chicken 
quenelles. Fill prepared small vol-au-vent crusts with this garnishing and range trussed crawfish 
on top, then cover. 


(2407), VOL-AU-VENT OF REEDBIRDS, DIPLOMATE—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent de Mésanges 
Moustaches & la Diplomate). 


With six turns of puff paste prepare eight small vol-au-vent crusts (No. 180); after taking them 
out of the oven detach them from the baking sheet and press on the center of the paste to enlarge 
the hollow space, and keep them warm. Roast two dozen reedbirds, having them rare; remove the 
breasts without any bones, suppress the skin and lay them in asmall sautoir; mix with them an equal 
proportion of halved game quenelles, molded with a spoon (No, 155) and poached when wanted in 
salted water; also add three dozen cooked truffles trimmed into small olive shapes; mix these garnish- 
ings with a not too thin but very hot Madeira sauce (No. 492), and with this fill up the warm vol-au- 
vent crusts; instead of a cover close the apertures with a ring made of puff paste, and in the center 
have a large Spanish olive standing upright, stuffed with game baking forcemeat (No. 81) and 
foies-gras. Dress these vol-au-vent on a folded napkin and send them to the table at once. 


(2408). VOL-AU-VENT OF SALMON TROUT A LA REGENCE—SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent de 
: Truite Saumonée & la Régence), 


The only difference between bouchées and small yol-au-vent is that bouchées are filled with 
either a salpicon or a purée, while vol-au-vent are filled with small, distinct garnishings. Prepare 
eight or ten small vol-au-vent crusts (No. 180); cook them in a brisk oven; remove and 


722 THE EPICUREAN. 


<detach them from the pan, impress a hollow in the center with the finger and keep them warm. Put 
into asmall saucepan a garnishing composed of a pound of salmon-trout escalops, twelve small poached 
oysters, twelve mushrooms or cut up morils, twelve small fish quenelles (No. 90) rolled on a floured 
table and poached, also some small cut-up poached milts; cover these with a rich and very hot 
Normande sauce (No. 509), finishing with a piece of lobster butter (No. 580). Fill the warm vol- 
au-vent crusts with this garnishing, cover lightly with some of the sauce instead of a lid, and close 
the aperture with a pretty mushroom head, turned and very white, left in its natural state. Dress 
the vol-au-vent at once on folded napkins; they can also be filled with one garnishing only. 


COLD SERVICE (Service Froid). 


(2409), COLD DISHES (Le Froid), 


The cold service is the most elegant and artistic one of the culinary art. It requires taste, skill 
and much study in order to learn the necessary moldings, modelings and requisite cookery. Orna- 
ments render the socles and the pieces beautiful and coquettish; their appearance should be neat 
and precise; the pieces must be well defined and designed before beginning; prepare all the needed 
materials beforehand so that when the work has once begun there willbe nothing to delay the prog- 
ress. Wax flowers and leaves are very useful, therefore a good workman must learn to make 
them in great variety. Any ordinary cook can attain renown by studying the complicated ways 
of preparing cold dishes, but he must give his sole attention to this special part which helps to 
increase his reputation and develop his ideas, for by it he elevates his trade to a positive art. The 
manner of properly preparing sauces, side dishes, roasts and pastries should of course be executed 
with as much care as the cold. Jellies should be tasty, limpid and transparent; if they be defective, 
then the handsomest pieces are open to criticism. Hatelets and jelly garnishings greatly enhance 
the appearance of the pieces, therefore care should be used that they are most beautiful and all 
crotitons cut with precision and symmetry. Cold pieces should be prepared beforehand, for they 
must not be hurried nor left to be finished at the last moment. 


(2410). ASPIC OF COCKS'-COMBS AND KIDNEYS A LA MAZARIN (Aspic de Orétes et de 
Rognons de Cogs & la Mazarin), 


Braise some cocks’-combs and kidneys, and when cold drain and wipe well. Cover the combs 
with a white chaudfroid (No. 596), and the kidneys with a blond chaudfroid made by mixing half 
‘brown chaudfroid (No. 594) and half white chaudfroid (No. 596). Coat with jelly a plain cylin- 
‘drical or channeled mold, having it rather high, and fill the bottom with the combs dressed in a 
ring, one overlapping the other, and cover with jelly; lay on top a garnishing of the kidneys, cover 
with more jelly and when this has hardened dress on some roasted chicken fillets, sliced and pared 
round-shaped, and covered with ravigote chaudfroid (No. 595); lay these in a circle and continue 
to fill up the mold, alternating the combs, kidneys and chicken; when very full let get cold and 
unmold on a small low socle made of stearine. Place a mandrel in the empty space in the mold, 
and on it a cup filled with small cases containing whole glazed truffles, and decorate around with 
small timbales (No. 3, Fig. 137) filled with jelly and foies-gras. 


(2411), ASPIO OF FOIES-GRAS (Aspic de Foies-Gras), 


Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) in ice. Unmold on a small baking sheet a terrine 
of foies-gras; remove all the grease and keep it for one hour on ice. Cut this foies-gras into three- 
eighths of an inch thick slices, using a knife dipped in hot water, and then cut these slices into inch 
and a quarter rounds with a pastry cutter also dipped in hot water. Lift up these rounds one by 
one with a fork and immerse them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), having it thin and almost 
cold; range them at once on a baking sheet and let this sauce get quite stiff on the ice. Cut out 
some rounds of cooked truffles very nearly the same diameter as the foies-gras, only have half as 
many; glaze them with a brush and range them at once ona baking sheet. Poura quarter-inch thick 
layer of jelly into the mold, and when it has become quite hard dress on it a ring of the foies-gras 
rounds, the smooth side uppermost and slightly overlapping each other, but alternating every two 
with a round of truffle: cover this crown with cold jelly an inch and a half in thickness, and again 
form two more distinct crowns exactly the same as the first one in order to fill up the mold, pouring 
jelly between each. Keep the mold on ice for one hour or more. In order to turn it out it is only 


necessary to dip the mold into warm water, wipe dry, and inyert it on a cold dish. 
(723) 


T24. THE EPICUREHAN. 


(2412), ASPIC OF FOIES-GRAS—SMALL (Petits Aspicsde Foies-Gras), 


On a bed of chopped-up ice lay ten timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); decorate the bottoms of 
each with a ring of truffles filled with a piece of red tongue, and the sides with fanciful cuts 
of truffles and egg-white dipped in half-set jelly to make them adhere to the cold 
molds, then pour into each one an eighth of an inch thickness of jelly. Unmold 
a terrine of foies-gras, remove from it cylindrical pieces a quarter of an inch less 
than the diameter of the molds and the same height; range them in the molds, 
finish filling up with more jelly and set them on ice for half an hour longer. Dip 
the timbales into hot water to facilitate the unmolding, and dress in a circle either 
‘on an inch and a quarter high foundation (Fig. 8) without the central vase, or else simply on a 
- cold dish; fill up the inside of the circle with chopped jelly and set crofitons of jelly around. 





(2413). TERRINE OF FOIES-GRAS IN ASPIC—WHOLE (Terrine Entire de Foies-Gras en Aspic). 


Unmold a terrine of foies-gras; scrape it neatly with a knife on top and sides to remove ali the 
exterior grease, and keep it on ice. Procure a mold of the same shape but an inch wider in diame- 
ter and an inch deeper; incrust it in pounded ice; decorate the bottom and sides with fanciful cuts 
of truffles, tongue, egg-white, and pistachios, dipping each piece into half-set jelly before fastening 


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them on; cover this decoration with a layer of jelly, and pour in more to lay half an inch thick in 
the bottom. Place the foies-gras exactly in the center and finish filling the mold with cooled-off 
jelly; keep on ice. Put a rice foundation bottom one inch and a half in height on a plated metal 
tray with a half-inch high straight edge (the rice foundation should be one inch and a half less in 
diameter than the tray), turn the aspic out of its mold on to the rice foundation, fastening a small 
basket on top secured by a skewer, and filling it with small glazed truffles. Decorate around 
the rice foundation with triangular jelly croftons, as shown in the drawing. 


COTDOSERV LOBe pany? 


(2414), ASPIO OF LOBSTER (Aspic de Homard), 


Prepare a wooden foundation about two inches thick and furnished with a slightly raised bor- 
der on the outer edge so as to uphold the entrée when dressed. The aspic mold should be chosen 
slightly narrower than the bottom of the dish, which is to be covered with paper. Suppress the 
shells from the tails and claws of two or three small cooked lobsters; cut the tails lengthways in 
two and also split the claw-meat in two, then put them into a vessel and season. Prepare a gar- 
nishing of carrots cut into balls with a small vegetable spoon, blanch and lay them in the ves- 
sel and with them mix gherkin balls cut the same size, small cooked Brussels sprouts, small 
blanched olives stuffed with anchovies, and a seasoning of salt, oil and vinegar. Incrust on ice a 





Fie. 448. 


dome-shaped mold wider than its height, decorate the sides and bottom with designs of hard-boiled 
egg-white, truffles and gherkins; coat the mold rather thickly with jelly; fill the inside with the 
halved lobster tail and claws, pressing the red side of the meat against the jelly; fill up the hollow 
space with the prepared carrot balls seasoned as for a salad and finished with mayonnaise sauce with 
jelly (No. 613). Let the aspic harden on ice for one hour at least. Incrust also on ice twelve small 
timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 187); decorate the bottoms with rounds of truffles, the sides with small 
round pieces of white of egg and coat them over lightly with jelly; as soon as this is hard fill them 
up with lobster cream, the same as for No. 2470, and keep them for twenty-five minutes on ice. 
Just when ready to serve dip the dome mold into hot water, wipe it off quickly and invert the 
aspie on the raised-edge foundation; on top of it fasten a small lobster cream ‘‘pain” molded 
in a channeled mold, and against the edge of the bottom of the dish unmold the lobster cream 
timbales, after dipping the molds into hot water. This is to be served with a separate mayonnaise 
sauce (No. 606). 


(2415), ASPIC OF OYSTERS (Aspic d’Huitres), 


Blanch some oysters, drain, wipe and cool; coat them over with a liberal layer of remoulade 
sauce (No. 628), to which liquid jelly has been added. Decorate a cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) with 
fanciful cuts of truffles, egg-white, gherkin and the red part of lobster, dipping each piece in half- 
set jelly and fastening them on to the bottom and sides of the mold; pour in a layer of jelly, having 
it half an inch thick, and on it dress the oysters in a circle, one overlapping the other; pour in 
more jelly to cover these another half inch and continue until the mold be full, then leave for sev- 
eral hours to become very cold; unmold and garnish around with chopped jelly and croatons. 


(9416), ASPIG OF PARTRIDGE—MINION FILLETS (Aspic de Filets Mignons de Perdreauw). 


Pare twelve partridge minion fillets; remove all sinews and thin skin and streak them with 
semicircles of truffles graduated in size; season and bend their thin ends in one direction; poach in 
a little butter and lemon juice; drain and when cold pare nicely. Incrust a plain cylindrical mold 
(Fig. 150) in ice. Decorate the sides on the top and bottom with an even chain of round pieces js 
truffle and red beef tongue, cut out with a tin tube an inch and a quarter in diameter; these 
pieces are to be dipped in half-set jelly and the red and black colors alternated, letting each Bhat 
be at an equal distance from the minions. Decorate the sides in the center as shown in ao 449, 
with the streaked fillets, dipping one at a time in half-set jelly and applying the streaked Side to 
the mold; in order to succeed with this it will be found necessary to incline the mold on ice ie 
turn it around as soon as the jelly hardens and the separate fillets are fastened on firmly. Coat 
this decoration with a thick layer of jelly and fill the mold with a partridge preparation a la Mont- 
gomery (No. 2548); leave it to cool on ice for one hour. When prepared to serve, dip the mold in 


226 THE EPICUREAN. 


hot water and invert the aspic on a bed of cold jelly on the bottom of a dish; fill the center with 
foies-gras balls three-quarters of an inch in size covered with brown chaudfroid (No. 594); on top 














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Fig. 449. 


place very white cocks’-combs brushed oyer With: jelly and surround these with a chain of small: 
truffles dipped in jelly; keep the aspic on ice for half an’ hour before serving. 


(2417), ASPIC OF PHEASANT (Aspic de Faisan), 

Clean two young pheasants; truss them as for an entrée (No. 178), and-braise white; cool off,. 
remove the breasts (fillets) and pare into the shape of es¢alops one inch in diameter by three-six- 
teenths of an inch in thickness; cover each one with foies-gras. Pound the remainder of the meats. 
and rub through a sieve; put the pulp in a vessel, and add to it a pint of half-glaze sauce (No, 413). 
prepared with truffle essence (No. 395), and a pint of strong jelly (No. 103); let this get very cold, 
and with it thickly cover the escalops; leave ‘to cool on ice. Besides this make a purée with one: 
partridge, and dilute it with white chaudfroid (No. 596); season highly, rub through a sieve, and 
mix in as much white jelly (No. 103) as chaudfroid. Coat a cylindrical fancy mold (No. 150) with 
white jelly, and incrust it very firmly in ice. On the bottom of this mold lay a bed of jelly three- 
quarters of an inch in thickness; on it arrange some slices of truffles one overlaying the other, each. 
slice to be an inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick; on top of these place the escalops;. 
pour on a layer of the white chaudfroid half an inch thick, and on this a row of escalops overlap- 
ping each other; cover these with more white jelly; now pour in a layer of chaudfroid, and continue: 
the process until the mold be full; leave till very cold, then invert it on a small socle, either of 
stearin or carved rice (see No. 10). 


(2418), ASPIC OF PULLET A LA OUSSY (Aspic de Poularde & la Oussy). 


Raise the fillets from six medium chickens, weighing about two pounds each; suppress the: 
epidermis, and remove the minion fillets, from which suppress the sinews and fine skin; 
pare the large fillets into half-hearts and place them in a buttered sautoir with the pointed. 
ends lying toward the center. Make five gashes on each minion fillet and fill them in with graded. 
scalloped rounds of truffle; roll them up crown-shaped, place them on pieces of buttered paper 
and with a pocket fill the center with a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras. 
well-mingled, having half of each; lay on top a round piece of red beef tongue, and set 
these in a buttered sautoir; pour over some clarified butter and lemon juice, and cover 
each one with a sheet of buttered paper and let cook in a moderate oven. When cold 
cover the minions with half-set jelly and the large fillets with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596); 
when this is cold repeat the operation and lay them on a baking sheet one beside the other with- 
out allowing them to touch; detach them by slipping a thin-bladed knife under, then pare them 
into half-hearts all of the same size. Decorate a plain or channeled cylindrical mold with fanciful. 
cuts of truffles, tongue, gherkin, egg-white, or pistachios, dipping them singly into half-set jelly, 
and applying them symmetrically on to the bottom and sides of the very cold mold, having them 
only on the top and bottom, leaving the center undecorated. Coat over with jelly so as tc support 
the decorations, then lay the minion fillets half an inch from the bottom, and at even distances. 
from one another; fill it up with jelly half an inch above the minions, and when this is set dress: 
on the large fillets, one overlapping the other, the pointed ends downward; then fill up with jelly 
and let it get perfectly hard. Have a plain dish covered with a tin bottom, and spread this with 
ravigote butter (No. 583) and a round of white paper over; unmold the aspic on this, and fill the 
center with a wooden support with a cup filled with cut-up vegetables on top, held on with a skewer. 
Around the bottom range chopped jelly and crusts. 


COLD SERVICE. ; W272. 


(2419) ASPIC OF QUAILS—BREASTS (Aspic de Filets de Cailles), 


Raise the breasts and minion fillets from three or four quails, pare and beat lightly, seasonm 
and poach in butter and lemon juice, keeping them rare; cool them off under the pressure of @. 
light weight between two buttered papers. Detach the minion fillets from the carcass and streak. 
them with truffles; poach them also in butter and lemon juice, bending them slightly. Divide 
each large fillet into two pieces, pare them neatly and dip them one by one in a brown chaudfroid' 
sauce (No. 594); range them as fast as they are done on a baking sheet to harden the sauce, them 
pare. Cut some croutons of very tender red beef tongue, having them the shapeof the fillets, only 
halfas many, and trim them nicely. Imbed a fancy cylindrical mold (Fig. 148) in ice; on the: 
bottom lay a thin bed of jelly and on this dress the minion fillets, pressing them down on the: 
sides that are streaked; cover them gradually with cold jelly to have it form a thickness of about: 
an inch, then let it set; dress the fillets in a circle on this, laying them on their smoothest side and: 
alternating every two with acrofiton of red beef tongue; cover this circle with another layer of 
the jelly half an inch thick and form more circles with the fillets, proceeding as for the others. 
Fill the mold with cold jelly, put the mold aside on ice for an hour, and just when ready to serve 
invert the aspicon a bed of jelly hardened on a dish and surround it with small paper cases filled 
with small truffles covered with a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). 


(2420), ASPIC OF TONGUE A LA PICQUART (Aspic de Langue & la Picquart), 


To make this aspic use a mold having four rounded top uprights without the central tube; 
decorate the flat part of the mold between the uprights with rounded bits of hard-boiled egg-whites 
and the uprights each with three rosettes, also of the egg-white; coat with a thick layer of jelly 
and fill each upright with tongue cut in slices three-sixteenths of inch thick, well pared and cut 





Fie. 450. 


round, then reconstructed as before; keep the thinnest end of the tongue at the bottom of the 
mold. Put a solid piece of tongue in the center of the mold to hold up the cupid. Set the mold 


on ice, fill it with jelly and when this is exceedingly cold unmold the aspic on a stand made in 
two pieces, one of which is nine inches and a half in diameter by one inch and a half high, the 
other eight and a quarter inches in diameter and one and a half inches high; both shoula be 
covered with montpellier butter (No. 582), besprinkled with chopped parsley. Garnish around the: 


base of the aspic with chopped jelly and surround the upper tier with triangular croutons of clear: 


128 THE EPICUREAN. 


jelly and the lower one with timbales of foies-gras made in molds (No. 3, Fig. 137); in the center 
of the aspic place a cupid supporting a vase filled with small glazed truffles. 


(2421), ASPIC OF VEAL WITH MAGEDOINE ARTICHOKES—KERNEL (Aspic de Veau aux 
Artichauts Macédoine). 

Braise a kernel of veal after larding the inside parts with veal udder, ham and truffles; put it 
in an oval mold to cool, pressing down well, Unmold, and cut it intoslices. Decorate.a larger mold 
with vegetables, coat it by pouring in some jelly and turning the mold so that the jelly covers the 
vegetables, then pour in more jelly to have a quarter of an inch in thickness at the bottom and lay 
the sliced kernel over, having reformed it to its original shape, then fill up entirely with slightly 
cool jelly. When perfectly cold unmold on a dish and surround the meat with chopped jelly, lay 
on top some artichoke bottoms filled with macédoine (No. 2650) and decorate the summit with 
three Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526). 


(2422), ASPICS WITH SHRIMPS—SMALL (Petits Aspics aux Orevettes), 


Shell one hundred shrimp tails, having them cooked very red; keep them covered in a cool 
place. Make a quart of good aspic jelly (No. 103). Incrust in ice ten timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 
137); decorate them with fanciful pieces of truffles or gherkins, covering the decoration with a thin 
layer of jelly, then pile on the shrimp tails symmetrically all around, sticking them in with the 
point of a larding needle after dipping them one at a time in half-set jelly. When the sides are 
covered, fill the hollow in the center with a bed of green asparagus; on top of the asparagus lay 
some jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), on this chopped mushrooms, and so on until the mold is full, 
finishing with mayonnaise. Keep the aspics on ice for three-quarters of an hour before unmold- 
ing and dress them on a bed of jelly on a dish to prevent them from slipping off. 


(2423), VOLIERE GALANTINE OF PHEASANTS A LA CASIMIR PERIER (Volitre Galantine 


de Faisans 4-la Casimir Périer), 


Procure two fine English pheasants with handsome plumage, remove the skin with the feathers 
from the neck and upper breast, also the wings and tails, being careful not to destroy their beauty. 





Fic. 451. 


Fix the heads in such a way that they retain their natural appearance. Bone the pheasants, spread 
them open on a cloth. Prepare half a pound of peeled truffles cut in quarter-inch squares, half 
a pound of fat livers the same size; make a forcemeat with three-quarters of a pound of 
white game breasts and one pound and a quarter of pork tenderloin, also adding two pounds of fat 
pork. Chop the whole separately and very finely, season with galantine spices (No. 168) and 
pound to a pulp; press it through a sieve, afterward adding some finely chopped truffle peelings; 





COLD SERVICE. 729 


mix this well with the squares of truffles and fat livers, also a few pistachios. Season the pheas- 
ants, divide the forcemeat in two parts, one for each bird, and fill them with it; roll the two galantines 
in separate napkins, tie firmly at both ends and in the center: cook in a game stock made with 
parings of white meat game; when well done take them out and leave to cool off slightly; rewrap in 
the same napkins after cleansing them in clear water, having them six inches long; tie them up tight 
at the ends and leave to cool under a light weight; unwrap when cold and glaze over with a not too 
thick brown chaudfroid (No, 594). Ornament one end with the head, and the other with the tail, 
placing the wings on the sides, keeping them in position with skewers; the necks should be strongly 
salted and have a rather thick wire inserted in the bone of the head, then stuffed with cotton so 
that it resumes its original size and shape; finish with an oval piece of cardboard about three inches 
in length. Dress the pheasants on small oval socles from four to five inches high, these to be made 
of tin covered with noodle paste (No. 142), glazed and decorated, then placed on a larger socle, 
regarding the details for which see drawing. These tin socles can be replaced by others made 
either of stearin or carved rice, or else an oval pie crust the same size as the tin ones. On the 
edge of the socle lay small cases, each one to contain a truffle glazed over with game glaze (No. 
$98), or garnished with foies-gras, or else small boned birds stuffed, braised and glazed with 
brown chaudfroid (No. 594). 


(2424), VOLIERE GALANTINE OF PHEASANT A LA WADDINGTON (Volitre Galantine de 
Faisan & la Waddington), 


Prepare one pheasant instead of two as described in the Casimir Périer; dress it exactly the 
same and stand it on an oval socle four to five inches high by seven and a half inches long and four 
inches wide; place this on another oval socle about six inches high, eleven and a half inches long 
and eight inches wide. Pick off all the meat from a young rabbit, cut it in small dice and fry 
them in fat pork over a brisk fire; when cold, pound and add the same quantity of grated fresh 
fat pork; pound all together again and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; press it through a 
sieve and mix in with the preparation a quarter as much fat pork cut in three-sixteenths of an inch 
squares, and then blanched, and as much truffle cut the same size. With this fill twelve timbale 
molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), cover with very thin slices cf fat pork, and bake ina moderate oven for half 
an hour; remove and set aside to cool. Decorate some timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), with cuts of 
truffles and egg-white, pour a little jelly into the bottom of each mold. Unmold the No. 2 tim- 
bales, remove all the fat from the bottoms and sides, pare nicely and then put them into the No. 1 
jnolds, filling up with jelly; when very firm, unmold and arrange them around the small socle of 
the galantine exactly under the pheasant, placing a border of jelly crotitons outside. 


(9495), BALLOTINES OF LAMB CUPOLA SHAPED (Ballotines d’Agneau en Forme de Coupole), 


Bone two shoulders of spring lamb, remove all fat and sinews and fill them with a stuffing 
made with half a pound of veal, half a pound of fresh fat pork and a quarter of a pound of cooked 
and finely chopped ham; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and chives; mix into 
it some truffles, pistachios and cooked tongue, all cut into three-sixteenths of an inch dice pieces. 
Spread the shoulders on the table, season and put in the dressing; sew up to enclose it well, giving 
each a round form, then braise with very little moistening, putting them into a saucepan lined with 
bards of fat pork and wetting with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419). When well done place 
them in oval cupola-shaped molds and let cool off under a weight; remove, wash the molds well 
and decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles, pistachios and tongue dipped in half-set jelly; coat the 
inside of the mold with a layer of white chaudfroid, return the meats as before and finish filling with 
jelly. Unmold when thoroughly cold and dress on long dishes on a socle of rice two inches high, 
the size of the cupola. Have prepared some red lambs’ tongues, salted, blanched and braised for 
two hours in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) the same as the shoulders; drain, skin and 
set under a weight; strain their stock over and when very cold pare them all of uniform size 
and oval-shaped; the size is three inches long by two wide and a quarter of an inch thick; glaze 
and dress around the lamb cupolas, one overlapping the other. Garnish around the dish with 
chopped jelly and crofitons and lay some croustades filled with a macédoine of vegetables (No. 2650) 
mingled with alittle mayonnaise (No. 606). Stick Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526) on top of each cupola. 


(2426), BALLOTINES OF QUAIL A LA TIVOLIER (Ballotines de Cailles & la Tivolier). 


Remove all the meats from three young rabbits; keep the minion fillets aside and suppress the 
sinews from the remainder; pass the meat twice through the machine (Fig. 47), weigh and 


730 THE EPICUREAN. 


allow double the same quantity of unsalted fat pork. Chop up the pork fat, add the rabbit meat 
and chop together once more. Chop up also eight ounces of lean ham cooked separately and mix 
this in with the rabbit, seasoning with salt and spices for game galantines (No. 168). Bone twelve 
quails, equalize the meats, removing half of the fillets to lay them in the places that are bare of 
meat; spread a third of the forcemeat over the birds and on each one lay four small truffles, 
wrapped in udder, placing them in lengthwise; on each side of these truffles put slices of well- 
seasoned rabbit tenderloin, and over another third part of the forcemeat and four more truffles; 
lay at each end and in the center the remainder of the'tenderloins and forcemeat over the whole. | 
Close up the quails, sew and wrap them in slices of fat pork, then in a cloth; tie it firmly to keep 
the galantines in good shape. Line a braiziére (Fig. 184) with bards of fat pork, lay the boned 
quail on top with the game carcasses around; moisten with plenty of mirepoix stock (No. 419). 
Two hours’ cooking will be quite sufficient; take off and put them under weight in molds the same 
shape as the ones used for ballotines of squabs 4 la Madison (No. 2427) and when very cold unmold 
and wash the same molds and decorate them with truffles and white of egg; cover the decora- 
tions with a light coating of jelly; fill them with the quails and jelly; leave on ice for two hours 
then turn them over and dress them on a trimmed rice socle two inches high; garnish around with 
chopped jelly and over this cold artichoke bottoms (No. 2501). Garnish the center with small 
crescents of red beef tongue glazed with jelly. 


(2427), BALLOTINES OF 8QUABS A LA MADISON (Ballotines de Pigeonneaux & la Madison), 
Bone twelve squabs, previously singed and cleaned; season with salt and pepper. Out into 
quarter-inch dice a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles, a quarter of a pound of fat pork, a 
quarter of a pound of fat livers, a quarter of a pound of lean ham anda quarter of a pound of 
pistachios; put all of these into a vessel and pour some Madeira wine over. Prepare a forcemeat with 
half a pound of chicken meat, half a pound of lean pork, both free of sinews, and a pound 
of fresh fat pork; run twice through the machine (Fig. 47), pound to a. pulp and rub through 


INS = 
tenet a (GY 
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Fig. 452, 

a sieve (Fig. 97). Put this forcemeat in a vessel, add to it half a pound of liver forcemeat (No. 
81), and the chopped truffle peelings; mix the salpicon in with and divide it up into twelve equal 
parts. Lay one of these into each boned squab, inclose it neatly in the skin and lay each bird in 
an oval dome-shaped mold three and three-eighths inches long, two and three-eighths inches wide 
and one and three-quarters inches deep. Range these molds on a baking sheet, cover over with 
another one and cook in a slack oven for about forty-five minutes; after removing lay small boards 
on top of each, they to be a quarter of an inch thick, three and a quarter inches long and two 
and aquarter inches wide, of the same oval Shape as the molds themselves. Set these aside to cool 
with a board over and weights on top; then unmold, clean the molds properly and decorate them 
with fanciful cuts of truffles; cover with a light coat of jelly and another coat of white chaudfroid 
(No. 596); place one of the ballotines in each. fill up with jelly and unmold again when cold; they are 
A be dressed on the platforms as explained later on. Place on a round dish, as shown in ‘Fig. 
ans a round-shaped stearin socle an inch and a half thick by seven and a half in diameter; fastena 
slanting center support to the middle of this and on it have three metal uprights held firmly by the 





COLD SERVICE. Wt 


upraised edges of the dish. Each one of these uprights is provided with four platforms attached 
by movable hinges and beside has two sharp points near the edge so as to keep the ballotines ih 
place. They are kept together by another small platform that is fastened to each upright by 
means of a small hook. On top lay a stearine vase garnished with cut vegetables to imitate 
flowers or other objects. Between each shelf at the base: place a fine emptied tomato filled 
with seasoned macédoine (No. 2650) dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Fill the basin of 
the dish with chopped jelly and clusters of truffle set at intervals, and around it set evenly out 
croutons. Place on the large socle or on another dish. Have a socle made the same as 
represented in Fig. 453; this can be of mutton and veal fat, partly mixed with virgin wax 
to produce more firmness, or else it can be made of stearine. When the pieces composing the 






Fia. 453. 


socle, or properly speaking the body of the socle, such as the three griffons, the three shells and 
the stearine support, are modeled they are to be scraped the same as described in No. 56. Takea. 
round board an inch and a half high and thirteen inches in diameter; cover it with asheet of white 
paper and lay it on a large, round silver dish or tray; in the center arrange the principal parts of 
the socle; on the base of this socle place the three griffons and on these the three shells so they are 
supported by them, and the handles of the shells lie in the hollow parts of the socle intended to hold 
them firmly; these different parts are to be fastened with royal icing (No. 101); in the center place a 
stearine support an inch and a quarter high by five and a half inches in diameter; have the whole. 
resting very straight and fastened together with royal icing (No. 101). The base of the socle can be 
garnished between the griffons by laying on the board some cases of larks glazed over with chaud- 
froid or ‘‘ pains” of foies-gras or else croustades of rice filled with streaked minion fillets; on top of 
these lay two emptied mushrooms one and a half inches in diameter, stuffed with foies-gras, then. 
fastened together to form balls, glazing them over with chaudfroid. The shells are to be filled with 
glazed truffles or crescents of tongue covered with jelly, or else substitute shells of foies-gras. 
removed with a spoon and sprinkled over with chopped jelly. The socle is now ready to receive 
either a ballotine Madison or a galantine of partridge a la Clémentine (No. 2491) or any other cold 
piece. The advantage of using the decorated socles is that any dish can be placed on them to give 
a finer appearance, yet the dish can be simply laid on the table on top of a plain silver dish, if a 
plainer service be required. 


(2428), STRIPED BASS OR SEA BASS A LA MANHATTAN (Bass Rayé ou Bass de Mer & la. 
Manhattan), 


Raise the fillets from a striped bass; remove the skin and bones, pare each one into an oval 
two inches by three inches, and lay them in a buttered sautoir; season with salt, pepper, and 
very finely chopped onion; moisten with white wine, and cook smothered in the oven; now lay 
them under the pressure of a light weight, pare once more, and when exceedingly cold cover 
entirely with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and return them to the ice-box. Prepare a pound of very 
fresh, boneless and skinless bass, put in a sautoir two tablespoonfuls of onions, and six ounces of 
clarified butter; first fry the onion lightly, then add the well-drained fish; season with salt, nut- 
meg, and cayenne pepper, and cook in a moderate oven; drain and let get cold; now suppress all 
the small bones from its meat and pound it well, slowly adding the stock mingled with a few spoon- 
fuls of bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) until it becomes quite 


732 | THE EPICUREAN. 


thick. Rub the forcemeat through a sieve, and place it in a vessel on ice to beat up well, incor- 
porating into it a gill of jelly (No. 103); try a small part to discover whether sufficiently firm, and 
then add a little dissolved isinglass; thicken on ice and put in the value of a pint of unsweetened 
and well-drained whipped cream. Coat some No. 2 mousseline molds (Fig. 138) with jelly, dredge 
over chopped lobster coral, and fill with the preparation; keep them on ice, and when very hard un- 
mold and dress in a circle one beside the other on a round or oval dish into the bottom of which a 
little jelly has been poured and allowed to harden; in the center dress the escalops of bass; 
surround with chopped jelly and crotitons; brush the fish over with almost cold jelly, and keep the 
dish very cold until ready to serve, sending it to the table accompanied by a fine herb mayon- 
naise sauce (No. 612). 


(2429), BASTION A L'AMERIOAINE (Bastion & l’Américaine), 


Bone thoroughly six chickens weighing two pounds each; suppress the sinews and trim the 
meats evenly. To six pounds of chopped forcemeat for chicken galantines (No. 65) add one 
pound of lean cooked ham, well chopped, and half a pound of chopped truffle peelings; mix the 
whole well together with two gills of Madeira wine and one gill of brandy. Spread out the boned 


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chickens on the table, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and fill each one first with an eight- 
ounce layer of the foreemeat, then here and there lay two ounces of peeled, sliced truffle, a few 
pistachio nuts and some red beef tongue cut into quarter-inch squares, and over these spread 
another eight-ounce layer of forcemeat: repeat with the same quantity of truffles, tongue and 
pistachios and finish filling the chickens with the remainder of the forcemeat, dividing it equally 
between the chickens; they should all be of equal weight, about two pounds each. Enclose the 
stuffing well and roll them up into long, well-rounded shapes; wrap each galantine tightly in a cloth, 
tie it on both ends, also in the center, and place them in a saucepan with the bones, parings and a 
(lozen calves’ feet split lengthwise in two; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and boil, skim and cook 
slowly for two hours, then drain. Fifteen minutes later unwrap and re-enclose them again in a clean 
cloth, tie as before and make a loop on one end to hang them up by, and let get cold, suspended 
trom a hook, and to the other end attach a weight to pull the cloth down and thereby pressing the 





COLD SERVICE. 733 


galantine. After they have been left hanging for six hours, unwrap and lay them aside in a cool 
place. Have a bastion mold the same as shown in Fig. 454; it is made in two pieces, one large one 
and a smaller one on top; incrust it in chopped ice and decorate according to the Mustec with 
tongue, truffles and egg-whites; imitate the door with chopped pistachios mixed with jelly and coat 
the decoration with a thick layer of jelly; lay it flat on a very straight table, also the tower, then 
unwrap the galantines, pare off the ends and put one at each end or turret, two in the eehicn and 
one cut lengthwise in two and placed in the mold so that the flat side faces the door, thus making 
five galantines for the large mold; now place one in the tower mold and with the pieces left a 
fill the four cupolas surmounting the four towers; allow the molds to get thoroughly cold for six to. 
eight hours, then unmold on a long socle and trim around with square crofitons to imitate the 
battlements; stick a small pointed ornament in each cupola. The piece is now ready to serve. 


(2430), PRESSED CORN BEEF (Bouf Pressé & l’carlate), 


Remove the bones from a piece of breast or brisket of beef weighing about twelve pounds; 
put itin a brine of saltpetre (No. 15). After salting for eight days, drain and wash the meat; 
put it in a soup pot with plenty of water; let come to a boil, skim and leave to cook very 
slowly for four or five hours. When the meat is thoroughly done, untie the string, tighten the 
meat in the cloth, and fasten it like a boned turkey at both ends. Lay it under the press ora 
weight and as soon as the corned beef is cold undo and glaze it with some meat glaze (No. 402). 
Cut it in thin slices, replace as it was before cutting, garnish the dish with chopped-up jelly, or 
parsley sprigs, and serve. 


(2431), RIBS OF BEEF A LA BOURGEOISE (Cotes de Beuf a la Bourgeoise), 


Select a three-rib piece from the thinnest end of the ribs; remove two of the bones. 
leaving the middle one only. Lard the lean part of the meat with lardons (No. 1, Fig. 52) of raw, 
salted and unsmoked ham, season with mignonette and allspice, wrap it up in bards of bacon and 
tie. Garnish the bottom of a buttered braiziére (Fig. 134), with sliced onions and a carrot, a 
garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), and moisten with one gill of Madeira wine, one gill of brandy, 
and a sufficient quantity of stock (No. 194a) to immerse the meat to three-quarters of its height. 
Boil, skim, and let cook for two and a half to three hours, turning the meat over and basting freq uent- 
ly; then remove it from the fire, and leave it in the stock to get about two-thirds cold, then take. 
it out and lay it under a weight, and when completely cold pare it nicely into the shape of a cutlet; 
scrape the surface of the bone, and glaze the meat. Set it on a dish, and garnish around with 
pear-shaped carrots and turnips, previously blanched and cooked in white broth with a little sugar, 
and reduced to a glaze. Clarify the stock in the braiziére in order to make ajelly (as explained in 
No. 103), garnish the dish with this jelly chopped up, and cut triangular-shaped crotitons; fasten 
into the meat three handsome hatelets of vegetables (No. 2526); trim the bone with a large paper 
frill (No. 10). 


(2432), RIBS OF BEEF IN BELLEVUE (Cotes de Beuf en Bellevue), 

After the ribs of beef are prepared, cook them the same as for a la Bristed (No. 1829), adding 
several calves’ feet. When the meat is well cooked, remove it from the fire, strain the gravy, and 
clarify it. Pare the meat well, and glaze. Have a jelly-coated mold sufficiently large to contain 
this, put it in and fill the entire mold with jelly, leaving it on the ice till ready to serve. Unmold 
it on a large dish, garnish around with chopped jelly, and form an outside border of oblongs or 
triangles of jelly. 


(2433), RUMP OF BEEF A LA MODE (Pidce de Bouf ou Pointe de Culotte &1la Mode), 


For this dish use a piece of beef prepared as for & la mode a la bourgeoise (No. 1340). When 
nearly cold put it into an oblong mold four inches deep and four inches wide by eight inches long; 


lay the mold on ice. Range some balls of braised carrots half an inch in diameter on the bottom 
of the mold. Place the meat on ‘top, covering with stock; harden and arrange over some carrots; 


cover with partly set jelly, and when this is cold add the rest of the meat, and when entirely cold 
eut in half-inch thick slices. Range on a long dish ina straight line and garnish around with 
chopped jelly. ‘ 


Another way is to have the meat arranged in the same mold as above, skim all the fat from, 
the beef stock, strain it through a fine sieve and add toit as much strong jelly and a quarter bottle- 
ful of white wine; boil and cool. With this jelly cover the slices of beef, allow to get cold, unmold 


G34 THE EHPICUREAN. 


and dress on a long dish, and garnish around with small carrots, cut pear-shaped; cook and let fall 
to a glaze. Then season, cool and roll ina little cold jelly; surround these with slices of gherkin. 
Beef 4 la mode can also be placed in a mold and have another larger one decorated with carrots, 
turnips and gherkins; protect the decoration with a heavy layer of jelly; unmold the smallest mold 
and place the contents in the largest or decorated one; fill up with jelly, let get cool, then unmold by 
dipping it in hot water; garnish around with chopped jelly, and outside of it arrange triangle or 


oblong jelly crofitons. 


(2434), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BOUQUETIERE (Filet de Bouf & la Bouquetidre), 


Prepare and cook a fine tenderloin, the same as described in ? Ambassade (No. 1441), only omit- 
ting the larding. Let it get cool, keeping it very straight, and when thoroughly cold trim it to a nice 
shape, and pour over it a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); when the chaudfroid is firm cover it 
entirely with half-set jelly. Put the tenderloin on top of a two-tier foundation, made either of rice or 
hominy, the bottom one being two inches thick, the top one three-quarters of an inch, and shaped 
symmetrically. Fill each of thirty small paper cases with a different vegetable, or several of each 
kind—say three of each—such as green peas, string beans, flageolets or kidney beans, Brussels 
sprouts, beets, cauliflower, artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, truffles and celery, seasoned and mixed 
with a little mayonnaise (No. 606). Prepare fifteen roses cut from turnips, and fifteen cut from 
carrots, each one inch in diameter, blanched and cooked separately in white broth (No. 194a). Seta 
rose on the top of each and alternate the colors when decorating the upper tier with fourteen of 
these, and the lower one with sixteen; force some chopped jelly through a’cornet or a bag between 
each case around the bottom and the edge, and outside of this place a row of jelly squares. Gar- 
nish the top of the tenderloin with five hatelets of vegetables (No. 2526), imitating natural flowers, 
the center one representing a vase decorated with small flowers. 


(9435), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA EVERS (Filet de Bouf & la Evers) 


This tenderloin is to be prepared and cooked exactly the same as for & la Bienvenue (No. 1445); 
when done, pare it nicely, and cut it into quarter of an inch thick slices; lay these in an oblong 
mold the same shape as the tenderloin but smaller than the one to be decorated. Reduce the 
gravy, add some aspic jelly (No. 103), (test the consistency of this by putting a small quantity of it 
in a mold on the ice, and if it should not be firm enough add some gelatine), fill in the mold containing 
the meat with this, and set it aside on ice to get verycold. Decorate the largest mold with pieces 
of tongue, pistachio nuts, and white of egg;cover the decoration with a heavy layer of jelly; un- 
mold the one containing the meat, lay it in the center of the decorated one, and fill it in with jelly. 
Fill the entire center up to the inside of the dish destined for the tenderloin, edge with jelly, and 
when very firm unmold the tenderloin on to the center of it. Lay on each end half a nicely carved 
rice vase, these being filled with imitations of small truffles made of mousseline of foies-gras, and 
then rolled in finely chopped truffies. When cold dip them in partly cold jelly, and arrange 
chopped jelly all around, also oblong-shaped jelly croutons, and fasten three hatelets-decorated in 
Bellevue (No. 2526) on the top of the meat. 


(2436). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA LUCULLUS (Filet de Bouf & la Lucullus). 


In order to arrange this tenderloin it will be necessary to have eight molds in two series of 
four each, four to be decorated and four in which the tenderloins are molded, these being an inch » 
narrower in diameter than those to be decorated. Prepare and cook the tenderloin as explained 
in ? Ambassade (No. 1441); when done, cut it into slices and reshape the meat into its original form 
and fill the four smallest molds with it. Reduce the stock with aspic jelly (No. 108), (if necessary add 
some isinglass to have it very firm), pour over the meat in the molds and set on ice to get very cold. 
Decorate the four larger molds (see Fig. 455) intended to receive the tenderloin after they are 
decorated; cover the decoration with a layer of thick jelly, unmold the smaller ones, put their con- 
tents inside the larger ones and fill up with very firm jelly. After the jelly is very firm unmold 
the whole on a cloth, set at the bottom of the slope on each side of the bridge a strong tin square three 
and a half inches in width and three inches high, having rounded corners and bent in the center 


COLD SERVICE. 135 


to form a right angle; these squares are intended to keep up the tenderloins on the inclined slope, 
and are most necessary; place the small molds at the ends, and set around the piece twenty-four 










































































Fria. 455. 


small croustades made of short paste (No. 135), and filled with goose livers taken from a terrine of 
foies-gras; around these throw some chopped jelly, making a very regular border of croutons of 
the same. Stick two hatelets, one at each end, and in the center put a small figure holding up a 
cup filled with glazed truffles. 


(2437), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA NOAILLES (Filet de Bouf & la Noailles). 


This tenderloin must be prepared exactly the same as for A la Bayonnaise (No. 1448); when cold 
trim it nicely and glaze it with meat glaze (No. 402), using a brush for the purpose. Cover it with 
jelly and set iton a symmetrically carved rice foundation, garnishing around with mushrooms, truffles, 
scallops of foies-gras and chicken mousselines made in tartlet molds. The mushrooms are to be 
cooked and emptied with a vegetable scoop, then filled with a foies-gras, pressed through a tammy 
and glazed in a white chaudfroid (No. 596). The chicken mousselines should be covered with 
green chaudfroid (No. 595), and scallops of foies-gras to be covered with a brown chaudfroid (No. 
594), the truffles glazed. Arrange this garnishing around the tenderloin with chopped jelly and 
croutons of jelly, but do not decorate it with hatelets. 


(2438), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA VIOLETTA (Filet de Bouf a la Violetta). 


Have the tenderloin prepared and cooked the same as for 4 la Bayonnaise (No. 14438), and when 
completely cold pare it to the needed size to fit in an oblong mold, previously decorated with a 
variety of vegetables blanched and cooked in broth (No, 194a). Cover this decoration with a heavy 
coating of jelly; cut the tenderloin nine inches long by three and a half wide; trim it nicely and 
lay it in the center of the mold and imbed it in ice, laying it in very straight. Fill up the mold 
with cold melted jelly, and when it becomes quite cold and the jelly thoroughly firm, unmold it on 
an oval dish, and garnish around with some finely chopped jelly. Select eight equal-sized, large, 
ripe and very firm tomatoes; piunge them into boiling water to peel off the skins, and empty the 
insides through an inch and a quarter opening on the stalk end. Shred some lettuce leaves and 
cooked beet-root, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and thicken the whole with a 
little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), mixing in with it some whipped cream; fill the tomatoes ‘with 
this, and put the covers on again; coat them over with partly cold jelly; also have eight cooked arti- 
choke bottoms, garnish each one with asparagus tops seasoned and thickened with jellied mayon- 
naise (No. 613), adding to it some whipped cream. Place on top of the asparagus a small black 
truffle glazed with jelly; garnish around the inside of the dish with chopped jelly. Lay the pre- 
pared garnishings over, and intercalate around these a row of jelly croatons (Fig. 457). 


736 THE. EPICUREAN. 


(2439), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, GRENADINS ROCHAMBEAU ‘Filet de Boenf, Grenadins 
Rochambeau). 


Prepare twelve tenderloins into half-heart shapes, each one weighing four ounces; lard one. 
third of them with larding pork, cut as represented in No. 3, Fig. 52, another third with truffles, 
and the last third with salted unsmoked tongue; braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419), and 
glaze, then cool and pare. Dress them in a circle on a round dish, alternating the various lard- 
ings, and fill the center with some foies-gras scooped from a terrine with a spoon; arrange chopped 
jelly around, surrounded by a border of jelly croutons. 


(2440), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CROUSTADES MACEDOINE (Filet de Boouf aux Croustades. 
Macédoine), 


Prepare, lard, braise and glaze a fine tenderloin the same as for ala Bienvenue (No. 1445); put. 
it aside to cool, keeping it very straight, then pare and glaze. Set it ona small rice foundation 
two anda half inches high and symmetrically carved (Fig. 9a). Garnish around with small croustades. 
made ot foundation paste (No. 135); fill these croustades with a small vegetable macédoine (No. 
2650); season well and thicken with a ravigote mayonnaise (No. 612); sprinkle over some very finely 
chopped chervil, and garnish around the croustades with a row of chopped jelly. Decorate the top 
of the tenderloin with some Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526). 


(2441), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES, meee (Filet de Bouf aux 
Légumes, Mayonnaise), 


Prepare and cook a tenderloin the same as for a la Chanzy (No. 1447), keeping it quite rare; 
glaze it over several times and leave till cold. The drawing that accompanies this dish will show 
the way to prepare the meat for a supper, or for serving at asmall sideboard supper. First take 
an oval-shaped drum, three inches high and hollow in the center, fasten it on an oyal board a. 
quarter of an inch thick and an inch wider than the outlines of the drum; on top of this drum lay 
an oval wooden socle an inch and a half high and slightly curved in the center, it being two inches 
narrower all around than the drum itself, thus forming a shelf. Decorate all around the drum 
with small sticks of vegetables; such as carrots and turnips, cut out with a tin tube five-six- 











teenths of an inch in diameter, and blanched separately in salted water; lay them in regular rows 
one over the other formed of the two distinct colors, being careful to dip each piece in half-set jelly 
to make it adhere to the form; when the drum is all decorated, glide it on to along dish, the bottom 
being filled with jelly; keep it in a cool place at forty-two degrees temperature. Pare and cut up 
the tenderloin in er osswise slices, each a quarter of an inch thick, dress them on the second curyed- 
Shape form, glaze and cover over with jelly. Have a garnishing of Brussels sprouts, celery roots, 
and cucumbers, all of uniform size, alsosome green peas, all of these to be dressed in small clusters, 
alternating the various colors; these must be placed on the shelf between the drum and the curve: 
put chopped jelly in the dish around the piece. Serve mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time. 


(2442), BORDERS OF DIFFERENT SHAPED JELLY CROUTONS (Bordures de Différentes Formes en 
Crofitons de Gelée), 


Procure very firm and very clear jelly (No. 123) cooled on tin plates two inches high; unmold whem 
very cold on wet napkins having all the moisture squeezed out, then spread on the table without 


COLD SERVIOF. "37 





any creases whatever. The jelly can be cut into many shapes (see Figs. 457 to 465, jelly crofitons: 
for borders). Lay them on the edge of the inside of the basin with regularity. They must be: 











Fig. 459. Fie. 460. 










i 


cy: 





tht | 


Fic. 463. 


























Fig. 465. 


cut very evenly. The effect they produce can easily be seen on the different designs the plates: 
offer. Round crofittons are cut with a round pastry cutter that has been well heated in hot. 
water. The thickness of the crofiton should be in proportion to its diameter. 


(2443), VEGETABLE BORDERS (Bordures de Légumes), 


Boil and cook in salted water some carrots, turnips, green peas and whole string beans; keep: 
them all slightly firm. Cut the carrots into three-sixteenths of an inchto a quarter of an inch 
thick slices, according to the size of the border; lay these slices on a napkin to dry, then cut half 





Fic. 466. Fia. 467. 


rings from them with a column tube and coat them with half-set jelly. Fasten them on by dipping 
into half-set jelly, and then placing them tastefully on the edge of the basin of a very cold dish; 
range the string beans in lozenge form between the half-rings at the base and the green peas om. 


the center of the half-rings on top. 


738 THE EPICUREAN. . 


(2444), BUTTER BORDERS (Bordures en Beurre), 
These borders are not very practical; they can only be made when the temperature is very low 
and are only mentioned in case there be no other resource available; yet they can be of great utility. 
The butter should be well kneaded to remove all foreign matter that it might contain; it should be 





Fie. 469. 


colored green or red; spread it out on sheets of paper three-sixteenths of an inch thick, then leave 
to cool; invert these on wet napkins, and remove the paper; cut it into rounds, rings, or triangles. 
Dress them on the border of a dish, alternating the colors; the dish must be kept in the refrig- 
erator until required. 


(2445), MOLDED JELLY BORDER (Bordure de Gelée Moulée), 


Incrust a metal border mold, either of tinned copper or tin, on ice; decorate it with fanciful 
cuts, either of truffles, tongue, egg-white, pistachio nuts or vegetables, done by dipping them in half- 










Y pd 


Goa mite 


—— te pp 
YP 













set jelly. When the mold is decorated, coat this decoration with a layer of jelly, done by rolling 
the jelly in the mold on the decoration until there is a layer sufficiently thick to protect it; fill 
up with jelly. When sufficiently firm unmold the border on a dish, having the basin filled with 
very firm jelly. The border can be filled with foies-gras, chaudfroid, ete. 


(2446), LAMBS’ BRAINS WITH MAYONNAISE (Cervelles d’Agneau & la Mayonnaise), 


Steep six lambs’ brains in fresh water for half an hour; skin them by lifting off the thin cuti- 
cle enveloping them, also the sanguineous fibers, and return them to fresh water to soak for two 
hours more. Place them in a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover, adding salt and 
vinegar, and let boil slowly for twenty minutes. When cold and drained, dress in a circle, placing 
between every brain a crouton of red lambs’ tongue cut to resemble cocks’-combs; decorate all 
around with garnishing of eggs (No. 2513), gherkins and beets; fill the center of the circle with 
some green mayonnaise with fine herbs (No. 612), and surround with pretty clear jelly croutons. 


(2447), OASES OF LOBSTER A LA RAVIGOTE—SMALL (Petites Caisses de Homard & la 
Ravigote), 


Place nine or twelve small china cases two inches in diameter on ice to become thoroughly 
cold. Split across in two the meats taken from six cooked lobster claws, and cut these up into 


ij 


eee Str 
~ is 


i 
SES 


i 


mu 





small rounds, using a vegetable cutter one and a quarter inches in diameter for the purpose, and 
lay them in a small-sized vessel with half as many rounds of truffles cut the same size as the lobster 





COLD SERVICE. 739 


and two or three spoonfuls of gherkins cut in slices; season with salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, 
oil and vinegar and let stand for fifteen minutes; drain off the seasoning; fill the cases with the 
preparation mixed with mayonnaise printaniére, and cover the top with a layer of mayonnaise 
(No. 606), finished with tarragon vinegar; smooth the jelly sauce and dress the cases on a folded 
napkin. 

’ 


(2448), CASES OF SNIPE WITH JELLY—SMALL (Petites Caisses de Bécassines 4 la Gelée), 


This entrée should be served on a dish having its bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 181) 
and the outer edge decorated with an open-work border of the same: and in the center a cone- 
shaped support, first covered with paper then with chopped jelly. This support must have a hole 
through the top in order to sustain a hatelet. Bonesix large Snipe, stuff them with chopped force- 
meat (No. 77); to this add the chopped entrails of the bird sautéd in butter and sew them up to keep 
the stuffing in. Maintain them in shape with a band of buttered paper. Range them in a narrow 
sautoir lined with fat pork and aromatic herbs, moisten with half a glassful of white wine and 
reduce on a brisk fire; then moisten to about their height with stock (No. 194a); season and mask over 





Fig. 472. 


with fat pork. Boil the liquid for five minutes and then remove the saucepan to a slower fire, or to 
a slack oven to cook for half an hour, then let cool off in their own stock. Unwrap the snipe, pare 
and split them lengthwise in two, shape them properly to fit the half-heart paper cases and range 
the halved birds on a small baking sheet and set them aside to cool fora quarter of an hour. Now 
take up each half snipe, one by one, and dip them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) thickened 
when required to have it quite firm; return them to the sheet and remove them separately 
when hard, to suppress any surplus sauce; brush them over lightly with jelly and lay each half in a 
half-heart-shaped case having its bottom covered with chopped jelly. Range the cases around the 
support, the point upward, leaning them against the border; insert a garnished hatelet into the top 
of the support. Surround the bottom of the dish with a chain of triangle jelly crofitons. 


(2449), CASES OF THRUSHES WITH JELLY—SMALL (Petites Caisses de Grives & la Gelée), 


For this entrée have a border of jelly the center being filled with a round piece of wood of the 
same diameter and height as the border and covered with white paper. Bone eight thrushes, 
spread them out on the table and season; fill them with a fine game forcemeat (No. 91), 
some foies-gras and truffles made into balls. Cover them with a band of paper to hold them in 
a round shape, then range them on the bottom of a small sautoir covered with fat pork, putting 








them quite close to one another; salt over and moisten to nearly their height with a good un- 
skimmed stock (No. 194a), and cover over with more fat pork; boil up the liquid, then withdraw the 
saucepan and put on the lid. Cook the boned birds for three-quarters of an hour ina slack oven; they 


should but simmer, as they only require to be poached, and let cool off in this same liquid. Un- 


"40 THE EPICUREAN. 


wrap, pare, cover by dipping each one singly into a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) thickened or 
ice; after this sauce is cold, pare the birds and place them in round porcelain cases; dress these- 
on the border. Garnish around the cases with jelly cut in three-sixteenths inch squares. 


(2450), COELESTINES OF PULLET A LA TALLEYRAND (Gélestines de Poularde & la Talleyrand). 


Cut up into eighth of an inch squares a pound of braised and cold white pullet meat, free of fat 
and bones, also a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles cut in the same sized squares. With the leg: 
meats from which the skin, bones and fat have been removed, prepare a purée and dilute it with half a 
pint of brown chaudfroid (No.594); press through a tammy into a tin bowl and thicken the preparation 
onice, adding to it the truffle and chicken salpicon. Cut some slices of unsmoked red beef tongue- 
three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and these into rounds two and a quarter inches in diameter; cover 
one of the sides with the preparation, having it well rounded on top, smooth with a knife and let 
cool off on ice, then mask over with brown chaudfroid. Decorate the surfaces of these with truffles, 
cover with half-set jelly and dress them in a circle. Cut some medium-sized apples in two, peel 
and core, then lay them on a-buttered baking sheet and sprinkle over with powdered sugar, and let 
cook for a few moments in a hot oven. When done and cold, use these apples to fill in the center 
of the circle; garnish around the célestines at enone jelly and outside of this lay evenly cut. 
jelly croutons (No. 2442). 


(2451), CHAUDFROID OF CHICKEN A LA’ ‘orAeA MORRIS (Chaudfroid de Poulet a la Ulara 
Morris), 

Raise the fillets from six medium two-pound chickens: remove the skin and cuticle, pare them, 
carefully into half-hearts; salt over and lay them in a buttered sautoir.in such a way that all the 
pointed ends are in the center; cover with clarified butter and squeeze over the juice of a lemon; 
place them on the fire to fry without coloring, then drain and put them under a weight to press. 
lightly; pare them again so that they areall the same shape. Bonethe'second joints, keeping on half 
of the drumstick bones, remove the sinews and season the meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; stuff 
the inside with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix a quarteras much foies-gras rubbed. 
through a sieve and the same quantity of truffles, tongue and pistachios cut in three-sixteenths inch. 
squares. Enclose the dressing well and sew the skin together to envelop it completely, then place: 
these legs in a sautoir covered with thin slices of fat pork, moisten with mirepoix and white wine 
stock (No. 419), cover with buttered paper and cook them in a moderate oven. When done, drain 
off and place them under a weight to get cold, then cover them with either a white or brown chaud- 
froid sauce (No. 594). Prepare a garnishing composed of cooked channeled mushrooms (No. 118), 
carrot balls blanched and cooked in white broth (No. 194a), and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, 
vinegar and fine herbs, and some glazed truffle balls. Dress the’ chatdfroid around’ a bread 
support covered with ravigote butter (No. 583), and fill in the ‘intersections with the garnishing: 
around lay chopped jelly and small cases filled with asparagus tops covered with green mayonnaise- 
with fine herbs (No. 612). On the top set a round Pies of glazed truffle, and around the cases a. 
chain of lozenge-shaped jelly croutons. 


(2452). CHAUDFROID OF DOE BIRD, PLOVERS, BUSTARDS OR WOODCOCK WITH FUMET 
(Chaudfroid de Gourlis, Pluviers, Vanneaux ou Bécasses au Fumet), 


Pick, singe and clean nicely eight doe birds; draw and truss them for roasting like vlover: 
(No. 2119); put them to roast, remove, and when cold detach the breasts, suppress the skin and 
cut each breast in three pieces—one breastbone and the two wings. Break up the fragments and’ 
put them in a saucepan with minced shallots and carrots, parsley, thyme and bay leaf, moisten with. 
white wine, stock (No. 194a), and espagnole’ sauce (No, 414); boil, skim and simmer for thirty 
minutes, then strain; remove all the fat and reduce to half-glaze, adding jelly; pour this sauce into- 
a tin basin and leave to cool on ice while stirring unceasingly until it becomes the proper con- 
sistency. Dip each one of the pieces of bird into this chaudfroid to cover with a thick layer, and 
when thoroughly cold brush them over with half-set jelly. Decorate a border mold with fanci- 
ful cuts of truffles and egg-whites, coat it with a thick layer of jelly, and fill with a well-seasoned 
macédoine (No. 2650) garnishing dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); unmold it as soon as it 
is cold, and fill the center with a pad of rice; on this have a sloping pyramid of rice; cover this. 
over with thick jelly forced through a pocket. Dress the chaudfroids, leaning them against the 
pyramid and holding them up with sticky jelly forced through a cornet; on top insert a Bellevue- 
hatelet (No. 2526) and place fine jelly croutons around the border; push chopped jelly into all the- 
intersections between the chaudfroids. Proceed the same for plovers, woodcock or bustards. 


COLD SERVICE. 741 


(2453), CHAUDFROID OF YOUNG GUINEA FOWLS (Chaudfroid de Jeunes Pintades), 


In order to dress this entrée solidly it will be found necessary to unmold a border of very 
smooth and hard jelly on a dish decorated at the bottom with a few fanciful cuts of truffle and 
egg-whites; coat over the mold and fill the inside of this border with a foundation made of wood 
or stearine covered over with white paper and having fastened on to its center a column-shaped 
wooden support; enlarge this especially toward the bottom with thick chopped-up jelly and keep 
tne dish on ice. Truss three small, clean young guinea fowls; cook them in the pan, keeping them 





quite rare and let them get partly cold in their own stock, then drain them off and carve in five 
pieces; remove the upper breastbones and the fillets, and lay these under a light weight till cold. 
Suppress also the thick second joint bone, leaving on the drumstick only; cut this much shorter, 
and place the legs under a weight to cool. Pare the pieces nicely, suppressing all the skin; dip 
them singly into a blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), lifting them out with a large fork, and range 
them at once on a baking sheet, some distance apart from each other so as to harden the sauce. 
Now take them off this sheet to cut away the surplus of sauce and dress them pyramidically 
against the support in the center of the dish, the legs underneath and the fillets and upper breast 
parts on top, being careful that this pyramid does not incline toward the jelly but leans against 
the support, which must also be covered. with paper. Mask the pieces of chicken with half-set 
jelly laid on with a brush, and keep the dish on ice for twenty minutes before serving. 


(2454), CHAUDFROID OF LARKS (Chaudfroid de Mauviettes), 


Bone two dozen clean larks; spread them open on the table and season; prepare a boned 
game forcemeat (No. 66), season highly and add to it a few spoonfuls of liver baking forcemeat 
(No. 64), and some of the fried lark intestines, also a few spoonfuls of raw, chopped truffles. Use 
this forcemeat for filling the birds, and roll them up into balls, sew them up with coarse thread, 
and cook for twenty minutes in a very little good, reduced stock, and covered over with fat 
pork; remove from the fire and cool them off in their own stock, then drain, unwrap, and 
trim each one neatly, and rounded. Take them up one by one, and dip them in a brown chaudfroid 
(No. 594), thickened properly on ice; lay them at once on a grate, and let the sauce harden in the 
jce-box. Pare the larks from any excess of sauce, cover with a light layer of jelly applied with a 
brush, and when this has become quite cold, dress them in a pyramid form on a cold dish, and 
surround with more jelly. 


(2455), OHAUDFROID OF PARTRIDGES A LA BEATRICE (Chaudfroid de Perdeaux a la Béatrice), 


Have four partridges picked, singed, drawn, and well cleaned; remove the legs, bone, suppress 
the sinews and stuff them with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); 
braise and set them under a weight. Raise the fillets, and sauté them in butter without coloring; 
lay them under a weight also, then pare them as well as the legs into half-hearts, and cover both 
with brown chaudfroid (No. 594) prepared with game fumet (No. 897) extracted from the car- 
casses; repeat this operation until the coating of chaudfroid be of a sufficient thickness, then 
leave to cool, and cover over with another layer of half-set jelly. Dress all the pieces on an 
empty swan (No. 3597), with an opening on the top or back part of the swan, and surround 
with small ‘ pains” prepared as follows: Decorate some mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138) with 
fanciful cuts, either of truffles, tongue, or pistachios dipped in half-set jelly; coat them rather 
thickly with jelly, and fill with a game ‘‘pain” preparation made with game purée of the fillets 
and parings mixed with chaudfroid, péchamel (No. 593), and well drained, whipped cream; adda 
small salpicon of truffles and tongue cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, and when the molds 
are thoroughly cold, invert and range them around the swan; surround with chopped jelly anda 


border of jelly crotitons (No. 2442). 


742 THE EPICUREAN. 


(9456), CHAUDFROID OF FILLETS OF PHEASANTS (Chaudfroid de Filets de Faisans), 


This entrée is suitable to be served at a dinner or a buffet. It is dressed ona socle composed 
of a wooden base, having in its center a support made in tiers, the whole being covered with white 
paper; on the very top of this there should be a hole intended to receive a hatelet. The platform 
of this support is ornamented with a small overhanging border made of modeling fat or card- 
board. Detach the fillets from the breasts of three large, cooked and cold pheasants, leaving the 
apper part of the breast—the part against the fillet adhering to the frame—then cut them up and 
remove, first the skin and bones, then divide each one into parts on their length, and also divide 
each of the fillets in three, pare them in equal shapes and sizes and cut them square on one end so 
as later to be able to dress them standing upright. Pound all the parings of the breast meats with 
as much cooked foies-gras, then rub through a sieve, season this pulp and set it in a thin iron 
vessel to dilute with two gills of melted game glaze (No. 398) and four to five gills of brown chaud- 
froid (No. 594) in such a manner that when the preparation becomes cold it acquires a certain 
firm consistency. After it is smooth spread it on a baking sheet in even, thin layers, cover them. 
very lightly with cold jelly, using a brush, and range on top the eighteen fillets in a straight line, 





one beside the other, pressing them down lightly; now cover them with a thin layer of the same 
preparation and let get thoroughly cold on ice. After removing it, cut with the tip of a small 
knife dipped in hot water, following the outlines of the fillets most minutely, then heat the bot- 
tom of the sheet with a wet cloth so as to be able to detach the cut-out pieces. Take them up one 
by one to smooth and stand them upright on another sheet on their square ends; let them get cold 
on ice once more for a quarter of an hour. Remove the fillets one by oneand dip them into a fine 
flowing brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) in such a way that their size does not increase much, then: 
return them to the same sheet just as they were before, (meaning upright), and let the sauce harden. 
With the same preparation cover the upper breast pieces, being careful that they assume their 
original size and shape, and smooth the surfaces nicely. When thoroughly hard dip these pieces. 
into the same chaudfroid sauce to cover lightly and not allowing them to become misshapen. After 
the chaudfroid sauce is quite hard, take the fillets one by one and cut away the excess of sauce, 
then dress them at once upright on the lower tier, or more properly speaking on the wooden 
foundation (therefore around the central support); now dress the upper breast parts, also upright 
onthe upper tier, leaning them against the support, and brush over lightly with a brush dipped: 
in jelly both fillets and the others; surround the base with a cord of jelly pushed through a 
cornet so as to maintain the meats level, and also surround this base with chopped jelly, laying 
over a chain of small paper cases filled with truffles masked in chaudfroid. On the extreme top of 


the support stick a small hatelet into the hole made for the purpose. Keep the entrée cold till 
needed. 


(2457), CHAUDFROID OF PRAIRIE HEN—GROUSE (Chaudfroid de Poule de Prairie--Tétras), 


Prepare a fine garnishing composed of large cooked cocks’-combs, poached chicken kidneys, 
round truffles and mushroom heads; glaze the truffles with a thin layer of brown chaudfroid sauce 
(No. 594), the combs and kidneys remaining in their natural state glazed with half-set jelly. Cut 
the breasts of two cold roast pheasants into quarter of an inch thick slices, suppressing the skin¢ 


COLD SERVICE. | 743: 


have them well pared and of uniform size, dip each one separately in brown chaudfroid, and range: 
them at once on a baking sheet, keeping them somewhat apart; let the sauce harden on ice. In- 
crust a large dome-shaped mold in ice, coat it over with an eighth of an inch thick layer of jelly, 
and when this is set dress on to the bottom and around the mold the prettiest pieces, intermin- 
gling them with the garnishings; fill up the mold with some half-set jelly. One hour after dip 
the mold in hot water, wipe dry and turn the chaudfroid over on a dish foundation covered with 
white paper; surround with small crimped paper cases, each one containing a small truffle dipped: 
in brownchaudfroid. Fasten one garnished hatelet in the center of the dome, lay chopped jelly 
all around, and jelly crofitons around this. 


(2458), CHAUDFROID OF PULLET, PLAIN (Chaudfroid de Poularde, Simple). 


Draw, clean and truss two pullets of two pounds each as for an entrée (No. 178); put them into a 
saucepan and cover with stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf; boil, skim and cook slowly on the side of the fire until done, then transfer them to a 
vessel and pour the stock over; let get partly cold and drain off to cut into pieces, first remov- 
ing the two legs and from them suppressing the second joint bones, retaining only the drum- 
stick bones to answer for holding the frill; put these legs under the pressure of a weight, then 
begin to cut the fillets from the breast, leaving on a piece of the bone with the breast meat; pare 
the whole well free of all skin and sinews; dip all the pieces into a partly cold white chaudfroid 
sauce (No. 596), lifting them out with a large fork to range on top of a baking sheet, or else a 
heavy sheet of tin, one beside the other but without touching; a grate may be used. Set on ice 
to harden the sauce, then remove each piece and pare, trimming off the surplus chaudfroid sauce 
and giving them a handsome shape. Dress in a pyramid and cover the chaudfroid with half-set 
jelly applied with a brush; keep on ice for twenty minutes, then trim the pinion bones and drum- 
sticks with fancy paper frills (No. 10) and decorate the dish and chickens with chopped jelly and 
jelly crotatons. 


(2459), CHAUDFROID OF QUAILS A LA BAUDY (haudfroid de Cailles & 1a Bandy), 


This entrée is dressed on a wooden foundation covered with white paper, and bordered on the 
outside edge with small beads of butter forced through a cornet. It has a paper-covered support in 
the center two to three inches in diameter and about the same height as the quaiis. Singe and bone 
eight fresh quails, leaving on the thighs, season the insides and fill the empty space with a layer of 
fine galantine forcemeat (No. 66), mingled with foies-gras and truffles cut in small dice, also a piece of 





Fia. 476. 





raw truffle in each; all of these to be properly seasoned; cover over with another layer of the force- 
meat and bring the two sides together so that the quails retain their original shape, then sew them 
up. Truss the thighs, and tie each bird up in a separate piece of muslin. Range the quails in a 
deep sautoir lined with fat pork, moisten to their height with a good stock (No. 194) and boil 
up the liquid, then withdraw it to a slower fire and cook the quails for twenty to thirty minutes 
while covered, and let them get partly cold in their stock. Drain, unwrap, and tie them up 
tighter in the same cloths to keep them in shape, and when quite cold cut each one lengthwise 
in two; fasten the two halves together with a small wooden skewer, and cover the quails with 
a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). When the sauce becomes quite cold, stick one of the reserved 
legs in each half bird, and withdraw the skewer. Dress these boned quails almost mpright bs 
the foundation that is on the dish, leaning them against the support; garnish the center of wn 
with chopped jelly, and surround the base of the bottom with small crimped paper cases filled wit 


glazed truffles. 


744 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2460), CHAUDFROID OF FILLETS OF REDHEAD DUCK AND VENISON (Chaudfroid de Filets 
de Canard Téte Rouge et de Venaison). 


Raise the fillets from five redhead ducks, without the wings or minions; pare them into half- 
hearts; season and sauté in clarified butter, keeping them rare; then drain and cool off under a 
light weight between two pieces of buttered paper; remove the skin, pare them again to have all 
alike, and dip in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with game fumet (No. 397), properly 
thickened on ice; range them at some distance apart’ on a baking sheet to harden the sauce; deco- 
rate with ornaments of truffles dipped in jelly, and coat the whole in half-set jelly. Cut ten pieces 
of very red beef tongue, not too thick, but of the same shape and size as the fillets; lay a duck fillet 
on each piece of tongue, making it adhere, and let get cold. Dress these upright against a vegeta- 
ble salad cut in small dice, and thickened with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), then molded in a 
small pyramidical mold. Surround the bottom with a thick rope of jelly pushed through a pocket. 
On the top of the pyramid place a cluster of jelly cut in small squares. 

Chaudfroid of Venison.—Cut a fillet of venison into slices; dip them in a en clawdtrle 
sauce (No. 594) properly thickened on ice, then lay to cool on a baking sheet; when cold, pare and 
dress in a circle; glaze over with jelly, fill the center with chopped jelly, and outside with a border 
of jelly crofitons. 


(2461), CHAUDFROID OF SNIPE IN PYRAMID (Chaudfroid de Bécassines en Buisson), 


Dress this entrée on a wooden dish bottom, composed of three shelves, all to be covered with 
white paper. Bone fifteen to eighteen small snipe, keeping the heads and a part of the intestines 
aside, the latter to be cooked in melted butter and pressed through a sieve. Scald the heads, 
pick out the eyes, replace them with a little forcemeat and a round of truffle to imitate the original; 
place in the oven to poach the forcemeat. Spread the snipe out on the table, season and cover 
with a layer of game galantine forcemeat (No. 66). Putin the center of each one a piece of raw 
foies-gras and a piece of cooked truffle, cover with another layer of the forcemeat,-then roll the 
boned snipe into ball shapes. Cover each one with aseparate piece of buttered paper and range them 


=i 
= TUII) 





Fic. i. 
in a narrow sautoir lined with fat pork; moisten to their height with good stock (No. 194a) and cover 
with more of the pork, then put on the lid and let cook slowly for twenty-five minutes; leave them 
to cool in their own stock. Unwrap the snipe, pare and shape them properly and fill with foies-gras 
any crevices that may have been caused by the cooking. Pare them all alike and of a nice shape. 
Range them at once on a small baking sheet and put aside in a cool place for a quarter of an hour; 
take them up one by one and dip them in a brown chaudfroid. sauce (No. 594) thickened on ice so 
that they are entirely covered, and return them immediately to the sheet to drain off the sauce, 
and keep cold for another half hour, then pare them once more of any surplus of sauce. At the 
last moment force some sticky chopped jelly through a pocket between the shelves, dress the snipe 
over, letting them form into a pyramid, and between each one dress one of the heads, and glaze 
it over with a brush. Push a thick rope of chopped jelly around the pyramid on the bottom of the 
dish and surround this with fine crofitons. Cover the snipe lightly with jelly applied with a brush, 
So as to render them glossy. 


(2462), CHAUDFROID OF TURKEY A LA PERIGORD (Chandfroid de Dinde & la Périgord). 


Braise and put away to cool a fine six to eight-pound turkey; remove the fillets, free them 
from skin and sinews, and cut each one into six pieces, making them as long as possible; trim them 
all the same shape and size, and cover over one side with a thin layer of foies- -gras taken from a- 


oe 


a 


COLD SERVICE. 745 


terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; let get quite cold. Prepare a chaudfroid with a 
quart of reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) and the braise stock, strained, skimmed and reduced to a 
pint, with as much aspic jelly (No. 103) added. Let the chaudfroid be cold enough to cover the 
meat well. Then dip the pieces one by one into it and remove them with a fork, placing one beside 
the other on a tray or on a grate. Let get cold, then cover them once more, exactly the same 
as before, and finish by covering with half-set jelly. Dress them on the bottom of a dish around 
a support, both the foundation and support being made of tin, having a hole in the summit and 
covered with noodle paste (No. 142), dried in the open air and glazed over with game glaze (No. 
398). Decorate all around with small glazed truffles set in small white crimped paper cases. Insert 
into the top of the support a tasteful hatelet ornamented with a fine glazed truffle and a cock’s- 


comb. 


(2463), CHICKENS ECARLATE A LA DERENNE (Poulets Ecarlate & la Derenne), 


This piece is dressed on an oval wooden bottom covered with white paper and fastened on a 
long dish, having in the center a slightly conical-shaped wooden support also covered with paper 
and a hole bored in the top to hold a hatelet. Cook in water four large calves’ tongues or small 
red beef tongues; drain and cool under a weight. Break the breast bone of four small, singed and 
cleaned chickens, then remove the bone and fill up the empty space with galantine forcemeat (No. 
65) mixed with truffles and cooked foies-gras cut in dice; then sew up the breast skin on the back. 
Truss these chickens with the legs bent under the skin, lard the tops and wrap each one in a small 





oxy 
Fia. 478. 


piece of fine muslin without tightening them too much; cook for one hour in stock (No. 194a), 
but very slowly, so as not to spoil their shape, then let get very cold, drain and untruss. Detach 
the breasts from the back part of the chicken and cut them up in slices, then once across, keeping 
them in good shape, and return them to their original places. Lay the chickens on a grater, cover 
over with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), properly thickened, and let it get cold. Dress the 
chickens upright on the oval foundation laid on the dish, leaning them against the support and 
alternating each one with a tongue previously pared, skinned and cut in lengths, but returned to 
the original position, then glazed over with a brush. Surround the chickens on the base with a 
piping of chopped thick jelly pushed through a cornet and between every tongue and ehigken lay 
a well-rounded peeled truffle cooked in white wine and glazed over with a brush. Lay ; all around 
the outside of the foundation triangular crusts of very clear jelly, and fasten a hatelet into the top 
garnished with jelly and a peeled truffle. It is advisable to serve this dish with amayonnalse sauce 


(No. 606) in a separate sauce-boat. 


(2464), CHICKEN FILLETS A LA MIREBEL (Filets de Poulet 4 la Mirebel). 


Raise and pare twelve chicken breasts; remove the minion fillets and the skin from Une aN 
ones as well as the pellicle covering the minions and the sinews. Streak half of the minion euDt 
with truffies and the other half with red beef tongue, then shape them like turbans; lay them ona 
buttered baking sheet and place in the oven for a few minutes to poa Roa ToInOYe gue ey unaenie 
light weight until cold. Cover with half-set jelly and fill the interiors me a gs aie ae 
pushed in through a cornet, and on top of each lay a small, very white, cooked channe ed uel 2 
room (No. 118) covered with half-set jelly. Poach the larger fillets in butter and lopegn juice, | ay 
hen ee a weight and pare again into half-hearts, cover over with jelly and decorate with, fanciful 


"AG THE BPICUREAN. 


star-shaped cuts of truffles and tongue dipped in half-set jelly. For this use around mold two 
and a quarter inches in diameter, and one-eighth of an inch deep. Cut and then arrange in the 
pieces of truffle and tongue as shown in Fig. 479, first dipping them in half-set jelly; 
when this is hard, unmold and place these stars on the largest part of the fillet and 
eover the whole with half-cold jelly. (These stars are used for lamb cutlets, 
Leverrier.) Fill the basin of a dish with chopped jelly; after the large fillets are 
cold decorate with favor frills (No. 10) and dress them in a circle; surround with 
more chopped jelly and croutons, laying the minion fillets around. Cut up some let- 
tuce hearts, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, mix thoroughly, drain and place this salad in 
the center of the dish; serve a vinaigrette mayonnaise separately. 





Fig. 409. 


(2465), CHICKEN BREASTS A LA RENAISSANCE (Filets de Poulet & la Renaissance), 


Pare ten chicken breasts without the minion fillets; beat them thin, then season and poach in clari- 
fied butter and the juice of a lemon laid in a sautoir, keeping them rare; drain and range them on a 
tray, cover with a buttered paper and set a light weight on top until they become cold. Streak the 
minion fillets with slices of truffles and shape them into rings; place them in a buttered sautoir and 
cover with buttered paper; poach in a slack oven, drain them, and when cold cover over with 
half-set jelly. Drain off all the butter from the pared breasts and take them up one by one with a 
broad fork, dip five of them into a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), and range them at once on a 
tray, keeping them slightly apart, and then put it on the ice to harden the sauce. Dissolve the re- 
mainder of the sauce in a bain-marie and add to it a purée of ravigote herbs (No. 623) pounded 
without any butter, but having two spoonfuls of the cold chaudfroid sauce added; strain and color 
with a little spinach green (No. 37). Stir this sauce on ice until of the proper thickness, and with 
it cover the other five fillets, the same as the first ones, and when the sauce has become cold pare 
off all the superfluous sauce around, then dress all these breasts in a crown-shape on a thick layer 
of jelly set on the dish. In the center of this crown range a pyramid of large Spanish olives stuffed 
with a purée of foies-gras mingled with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); around dress the 
streaked minion fillets and in the center of each lay a small round glazed truffle. 


(2466), OHIOKEN BREASTS A LA GALLIER (Filets de Poulet & la Gallier), 


Trim a rice socle eight inches in diameter and two inches high. Remove the sinews well from 
twelve chicken breasts, suppress the skin and pare nicely, then fry them white in clarified butter and 
lemon juice; season with salt, drain, and lay them under a light weight; trim them into half-hearts, 
and split them in two through their thickness; then cover one part of each with foies-gras taken 
from a terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, and place the other part on top of this, pregs- 
ing one on the other lightly and evenly. Cover half of these double fillets with a ravigote chaudfroid 
(No. 595), and when it is cold brush over with partly solidified jelly; decorate the others with truffles, 
and cover also with partly cold jelly. When ccld cut away the surplus of chaudfroid and jelly 
and ornament the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10). Dress the fillets in a circle on the socle, 
intercalating the two kinds, having first one covered with chaudfroid, then one covered with jelly; 
fill up the inside with some well-seasoned vegetable macédoine (No. 2650) thickened with a little 
jellied mayonnaise (No. 618); decorate around the socle with chopped jelly and crofitons of jelly; on 
top of the macédoine lay round pieces of glazed black truffle. On the edge of the socle around the 
fillet have a border of stuffed mushrooms covered with chaudfroid (see No. 2517). 


(2467), CHICKEN FRICASSEE—CHAUDFROID (Fricassée de Poulet—Chaudfroid), 


Prepare a fricassee with a good, large chicken the same as for fricassee of chicken (No. 
1861), add two dozen large mushroom heads turned and channeled (No. 118). Remove the 
pieces of chicken singly and suppress all the skin and most of the bone, then range them on a 
tray; remove the mushrooms and set them aside to get cold; strain the sauce into a smalk 
saucepan without thickening it with eggs, and let get cold while stirring, incorporating into it 
slowly a few spoonfuls of cold jelly, then thicken it slightly on ice, stirring it the same as a chaud- 
froid sauce. Take up the pieces of chicken with a fork, and immerse them thoroughly in the 
sauce, not having it too thick; do the same with the mushrooms, and leave to drain well; dress 
them as quickly as each piece is done in a pyramid form on a very cold dish; cover with half-set 
jelly, using a brush for the purpose, and dress the mushrooms around the chickens, surrounding 
these with a border of jelly pushed through a cornet. Keep the dish for one-quarter of an hour ia 
the ice-box before serving. 


— > 

4 

si ot 
ae 


COLD SERVICE. V47 


(2468), CHICKENS SAUTED A LA SHERMAN (Poulets Sautés ala Sherman), 


Incrust a fancy border mold in chopped ice, having it decorated with truffles and 
egg-white; coat the decoration with a thick layer of jelly and fill the center with slices of tongue, 
mushrooms, ham and truffles; pour the sauce obtained from the chicken over, and let get coid, 
then mask with a thick layer of jelly to finish filling the mold; have this get quite hard. Cut up 
four young chickens, each weighing a pound and a half; they must be well drawn, singed and 
cleaned; take four pieces from each, namely, two wings and two legs, pare and sauté in butter to a 
fine color; drain off the butter when done and detach the glaze with a little Madeira wine and espag- 
nole sauce (No. 414); when the whole is reduced to perfection mix inan ounce of isinglass dissolved 
ina little broth (No. 194a); this sauce when cold should be of the consistency of a lightly thickened 
chaudfroid. Take out the chickens, strain the sauce througha tammy, remove a part of it, and into. 
it mix some unsmoked red beef tongue, mushrooms, truffles and lean cooked ham, all cut in eighth 
ef an inch thick by one and a quarter to one and a half inches in diameter slices, adding the chicken 
to the remainder of the sauce. Unmold the border, and when the chicken has cooled in its sauce 
dress it inside the border, and finish covering with the nearly cold sauce. Garnish around with a 
border of jelly crotitons (No. 2442). Keep the dish in the ice-box, and cover entirely with the 
nearly cold jelly applied with a brush. Decorate with fancy paper frills (No. 10), then serve. 


(2469), CHICKEN ROASTED WITH JELLY, CUT UP AND GARNISHED WITH TONGUE 
(Poulet Roti & la Gelée, Découpé et Garni de Langue de Beuf), 


_ Roasted with Jeliy.—Select a fine two pound and a half to three pound chicken; it must be 
very tender; draw, singe and free it of all the pin feathers, then truss it to roast (No. 179); cover 


_ with a bard of thin fat pork, then roast it on the spit, basting it frequently, and when done and 


of a fine color, remove and let it get cold. Untruss and glaze with chicken glaze (No. 397), and 
surround it with chopped jelly and jelly crofittons, cut either into triangles, oblongs, lozenges, atc. 


Cut up and Garnished with Salted Unsmoked Beef Tonguwe.—After the chicken has been 
cooked and is cold, the same as for the above, cut it up into five pieces, pare them nicely and glaze 
over. Cut from the thick part of a tongue some slices three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; 
pare them into oblongs three inches long by one and three-quarters wide, and cover well with half- 
set jelly. Dress the chicken around an upright conical support placed in the middle of a dish, 
having it covered with green butter (No. 583); decorate around with chopped jeliy, and over this. 
place the oblongs of tongue in a circle, one overlapping the other. On top of the support have: 
some ornamental piece, either a figure or a cup filled with jelly cut in squares of an eighth of an 
inch. This dish can be accompanied by a separate remoulade sauce (No. 624). 


(2470), CREAM OF LOBSTER (Créme de Homard), 


Fasten a wooden paper-covered foundation on a dish, having in its center a flat support two 
inches high, forming a step with a hole in the top. Decorate the bottom and interior of ten 
large timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137) with gherkins or truffles dipped in half-set jelly, coat the molds. 
lightly with jelly, turning them around on ice. Suppress the shells fram the tails and claws of 


— 


i al il srl 

2 ae ; ai Uy) 

om HAG] Yl, i 
ig pi ap are y Theron mul 
> P< — sy — a : 


Fie. 480. 





three small cooked lobsters, split the claws in two lengthwise and readjust them with half-set jelly 
to their original shape; keep them on ice. Cut up the tail meats and pound them with a few spoon- 
fuls of good velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom liquor, and mix in two spoonfuls of the 
creamy parts from the bodies, also a dash of cayenne pepper; pass the whole through a tammy and 
your the preparation into a vessel to smooth while stirring it vigorously with a spoon; incorporate. 


748 THE, EPICUREAN. 


into it slowly four gills of oil, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar and two gills of aspic jelly (N 0. 108); 
beat the preparation on ice to thicken, then mix in at once the value of three or four gills of 
unsweetened whipped cream. When finished, fill the small molds with this preparation and let it 
harden on ice; at the last moment dip each mold separately into hot water, wipe them off quickly 
and invert them on the bottom of the dish around the support; cover this latter with a coat of 
. thick chopped jelly and stick an untrimmed hatelet in the hole on top; now dress the lobster claws 
upright in a triangle against the hatelet, placed there with the purpose of holding them up, and 
fasten them on with sticky jelly; brush them over with half-set jelly and surround the base with 
green parsley leaves or water cress. Arrange around the dish small, even triangles of jelly, cutting 
off the tips, and serve with mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2471), CUTLETS OF LAMB, IMPERIAL (Cotelettes d’Agneau a I’Impériale), 


Trim eight to ten lamb cutlets taken from the rib near the loin of two racks, four from each 
rack; suppress the chine bone and fibrous skin from the rib bones, pare them, leaving only the kernel 
on; beat this lightly, replace the fat by lamb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) so as to give them their 
original shape, season and fry on both sides in butter;. when done drain on a baking sheet and 
over with buttered paper, then set them under a light weight to cool; pare them once more. Put 
into a saucepan a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), strained through a tammy, and dilute it 
slowly with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); thicken this lightly on ice, remove and dip the cutlets 
into it one by one, covering them entirely; range them at once on a tray and keep in a cool place 
to harden the sauce. Detach the cutlets from the sheet, free them of all surplus sauce and trim the 
handles with fancy favor frills (No. 10); dress in a circle, filling the center with whole asparagus 
tops seasoned with salt and pepper and dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); cover the tops 
of the asparagus with glazed truffles cut in slices, surround the meats with chopped jelly and place 
around a border of jelly crotitons. 


(2472), CUTLETS OF LAMBS KERNELS IN BELLEVUE (Cotelettes de Noix d’Agnean en Bellevue), 


Pare and sauté twelve lamb cutlets; place them under a light weight and cut away the kernels; 
cover these with a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). Decorate anaspic mold and fill it with layers 
‘of the kernels and jelly alternated and leave for two hours on ice; then unmold, dress on a dish 
bottom an inch and a half thick and one inch in diameter larger than the aspic and surround with 
chopped jelly and jelly crofitons. Place a large Bellevue hatelet (No. 2526) in the center. 


(2473), CUTLETS OF LAMB WITH ASPIC (Cotelettes d’Agneau a l’Aspic), 


Procure twelve cutlets cut from the covered ribs of a spring lamb and nicely pared; lard them 
with lardons (No. 38, Fig. 52), made of veal udder, truffles and red beef tongue. Line a sautoir 
with slices of fat pork, place the cutlets over and moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); 
set it on the fire and at the first boil push it.into the oven. .-When done drain and cool off under a 
weight, pare once more so that the lardons can be seen well. Decorate an aspie mold, 
range the cutlets inside of it in a circle, placing a crouton of tongue between each one, and pour in 
sufficient jelly to fill the mold to within a quarter from the top; after this has become firm finish 
filling the mold with jelly and lay it aside on ice for two hours. When prepared to serve un- 
mold the aspic on a dish, having the basin covered with very firm jelly, or on a small, low, 
‘decorated socle. Fill the center with a blanquette of lamb sweetbreads prepared with truffles, and 
‘surround the whole with chopped jelly and croutons. 


(2474), CUTLETS OF LAMBS KERNELS WITH MAYONNAISE (Ootelettes de Noix d’Agneau & la 
Mayonnaise), 


Fry twelve fine spring lamb chops; press them under a weight and cut out all the parts except 
the kernels; pare and replace the trimmings by pate de foies-gras and dip them into ajellied mayon- 
naise (No. 618) so as to cover them entirely with a thick layer of it. Range some cut-up lettuce 
leaves on a dish, reserving the hearts for decorating; around the lettuce dress the kernels of lamb 
and decorate the whole with the lettuce hearts, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, olives, ete.; surround 
the edge of the dish with chopped: jelly and: croutons of the same. 


COLD SERVICE YA 


(2475), CUTLETS OF LAMB WITH TOMATOED CHAUDFROID (Cotelettes dAgneau au Chaud-~ 
froid Tomaté), 


Fry in butter a dozen fine short-handled’ spring-lamb cutlets; put some blond chaudfroid 
sauce (No. 596) into a saucepan and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of tomato purée (No. 730), so- 
that it acquires a light red tint; thicken it by putting the saucepan on ice and moving constantly 
with a spoon, and when thick dip the cutlets in so as to have them well covered. Range them at 
once on a baking sheet slightly apart, but all on the same side, and allow the same to harden in a 
cool place; detach them, pare and decorate the kernels with a rosette formed of pickled gherkin 
and truffles dipped into half-set jelly; cover the whole with a coating of jelly, cool, then dress in a 
circle on a dish, having the handle bones under and the kernels on top; fill the center with chopped. 
jelly. 


(2476), CUTLETS OF LOBSTER A LA LOWERY (Cdtelettes de Homard & la Lowery). 


Chop up three hard-boiled eggs, the whites and yolks separately, also some pistachios. In- 
crust a cylindrical mold in ice; divide the bottom into six even parts with sticks of truffles dipped 
in half-set jelly and in one of these put the white, in another the yellow, andin a third the green; 
repeat, then pour over a little jelly, and when hard add sufficient to have it three-eighths of an inch. 
thick; over this lay in a circle some lobster escalops covered’ with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), one 


overlapping the other; pour more jelly over, and continue this process until the mold is full; leave. 


it on ice to get thoroughly cold, invert iton a dish and surround with cutlets prepared as follows: 
Have some bottomless cutlet molds; lay them on sheets of oiled paper, and cover the bottom of each 
one with a bed of jellied mayonnaise having raw fine herbs added to it; on top place small, well- 
seasoned slices of lobster, also sliced truffles, and cover with a little white jellied mayonnaise (No. 
613), strewing the whole with finely chopped truffles; when very cold unmold and dress them in a 
circle around the aspic; trim the thin ends with a fancy favor frill (No. 10), and place a border of 
stuffed olives (No. 695) around the cutlets, and chopped jelly and croftons outside the whole. 


(2477). OUTLETS OF PHEASANT IN CHAUDFROID (Chaudfroid de Cotelettes de Faisan). 


The accompanying drawing, Fig. 481, is the model of a mold in which the cutlet preparation is 
hardened; this is made of thick tin, open on both ends, but it can be closed by covers that fit 
on the mold itself. This mold when closed measures three inches in height and two in width, it 
being shaped like a half-heart, but for preparing a large quantity double molds can be em- 





Fia. 481, 


ployed, they having almost a whole heart-shapa appearance; if these are used, after the prepara- 
tion is hardened and unmolded, it is to be cut in two through the center from the top to the 
bottom and each half made into a single cutlet; in this way there will be sufficient of them to dress. 
three or four dishes. With the breast meat’ cut from a large cold roasted pheasant, an equal 
amount of cooked foies-gras, one or two gills of melted game glaze (No. 398), and two or three gills of 
brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 897), make a preparation, and 
when smooth and of a desired consistency mix in with it a fine salpicon of cooked foies-gras and 
truffies, half of each; then stir it on ice to thicken sufficiently so that the truffles and livers do not 
fall to the bottom. Pour it into the cutlet mold, laying on ice, and wrapping the mold in a sheet 
of paper imbed it completely in. pounded ice and keep it thus for five or six hours. At the expi- 
ration of this time dip the mold in warm water to unmold the preparation, and then cut it at once 
into two parts, from top to bottom; smooth the surfaces well and keep fora quarter of an hour on ice. 
After removing them, divide across in slices each three-eighths of an inch in thickness, and take 
these up one by one on a broad fork and dip'in some brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) properly 


750 . THE EPICUREHAN. 


thickened; drain it off well and range the cutlets on a cold baking sheet slightly apart. Lay this on 
ice for half an hour to harden the sauce; detach the cutlets from the sheet and pare off any surplus of 


/ 





Fig. 482. 


sauce, and stick a pretty favor frill (No. 10) into each; dress them in a close circle on a foundation 
placed on a dish and covered over with paper; fill in the empty space in the circle merely with 
chopped jelly and surround the foundation with large croutons of jelly. Keep the dish in the 
ice-box until needed. 


(2478), VEAL OUTLETS A LYANACREON (Cédtelettes de Veau & l’Anacréon), 


Lard some veal cutlets cut from a rack with tongue and fat pork, a half of each; braiso or poéler 
them while basting frequently, then lay them under a weight to reduce to five-eighths of an inch in 
thickness; pare neatly and cover over with cream forcemeat (No. 75), and decorate with a hand- 
some truffle rosette; range a buttered paper on top of each and poach in a slack oven; when cold 
mask the surfaces with half-set jelly and dress flat in a circle, filling the center with an asparagus 
salad (No. 2621); surround with chopped jelly and crotitons. 


(2479). CUTLETS OF WOODCOCK, PONIATOWSKI (Cotelettes de Bécasses, & la Poniatowski). 


Dress this cold entrée‘on a wooden foundation covered with noodle paste (No. 142), fastening it 
on toa dish; decorate the sides of the foundation, and place a support in the center surmounted by a 
small fancy tin vase, both covered the same as the foundation; the top of the base is flat and 
closed; it is simply to be dressed with three fresh woodcock heads with feathers, and held in 
shape, arranged in a triangle; surround their base with chopped jelly and a chain of truffle balls. 





Cut the meats of three cooked, cold woodcock: into a fine montglas, put this in a saucepan with 
half as much cooked foies-gras, and as many truffles cut exactly like the meats; combine this 
montglas with some good, partly warm, succulent brown chaudfroid (No. 594), reduced with game 
fumet (No. 397); smooth the preparation and use it to fill twelve to fourteen tin cutlet-shaped molds 
brushed over with jelly; equalize the tops and leave to cool one hour on ice. Dip these cutlets in 
hot water, unmold on a baking sheet and smooth the surfaces once more; lift them up one by one, 
dip into a good brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) slightly thickened on ice, and return them at once 
to the sheet to have this sauce get thoroughly cold on ice. Surround the base of the support with a 
very thick layer of chopped, sticky jelly, pushed on through a pocket. At the last moment 
detach the cutlets from the sheet, pare neatly, fasten a small fancy favor frill (No. 10) in each, and 
(tress them in a circle around the support on the foundation; coat with jelly so as to give them a 
brilliant appearance. 


COLD SERVICE. "51 


(2480), CUTLETS OF WOODCOCK A LA SARAH BERNHARDT (Cotelettes de Bécasses & la 
; Sarah Bernhardt), 


Take seven or eight fresh round Périgord truffles, all of equal size and very clean; peel, salt 
and cook them for seven or eight minutes in a little Madeira wine and leave them to cool off in this 
liquid. Remove all the meats from three woodcock roasted rare, keeping aside three or four of 
the fillets; pound the remainder of the meats with a part of the cooked intestines and three- 
juarters as much cooked foies-gras; season and rub through a sieve; put this purée into a vessel 


‘and beat it up for two minutes with a spoon, incorporating into it slowly four spoonfuls of good 


melted game glaze (No. 398) and one gill of liquid brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with 
game fumet (No. 397) and essence of truffles (No. 395); when all is well mingled add gradually to 
the preparation two and a half ounces of fresh butter, wiped and divided into small pats; the 
whole should now be very smooth without being frothy. Drain the truffles, stand them upright 
on a cloth to mark the tops with a tube from a column box an inch in diameter; remove this 
marked piece and empty the truffles out with a vegetable spoon; pound these removed pieces with 
as much cooked foies-gras, season the preparation and lay it in a bowl to beat up for a 
few moments so as to have it smooth. Prepare a montglas with half of the woodcock fillets laid 
aside, and an equal quantity of red beef tongue mingled with a little good reduced and thick 
Madeira sauce (No. 413). Moisten witha brush dipped in cold jelly a dozen tin cutlet-shaped molds, 
cover the bottoms and sides with the woodcock preparation, leaving an empty space in the center; 
fill this up with some of the cold montglas; cover with more of the preparation and smooth it at once; 
keep the molds for one hour onice, then unmold them and cover with a layer of brown chaudfroid 
sauce (No. 594). Put a few spoonfuls of this chaudfroid sauce into a vessel, thicken it while stirring 
on ice and mix withit the remainder of the woodcock fillets cut in small dice and twice as much 
cooked foies-gras cut the same; use this preparation for stuffing the emptied truffles; range them 
as soon as done on a small baking sheet and close the opening with a round piece of cooked foies- 
gras cut out with the same tube used for marking the truffles; glaze over the whole with a brush; 
keep this baking sheet on ice for half an hour. Harden a thick layer of jelly on a dish and on top 
of it set a narrow wooden foundation covered with white paper; on this dress the truffles piled 
in a pyramidical form, then push chopped jelly through a cornet into all the intersections, as well as 
around the truffles, to maintain them in position. Around this board dress the cutlets in a circle 
after inserting a fancy favor frill (No. 10) into each. 


(2481), LOBSTER DOME GARNISHED WITH SMALL CASES (Dome de Homard Garni de Petites 
Caisses), 


Pound the cooked meat of two or three lobster tails with a spoonful of prepared red pepper 
(No. 168), two spoonfuls of béchamel (No. 409), and a piece of lobster butter (No. 580); pass the 
whole through a sieve and then set it in a vessel to mix with an equal quantity of white chaud- 
froid sauce (No. 596) and two gills of mayonnaise (No. 606). Mix in with this preparation the claw 
meat cut in smalldice. Incrust a dome-shaped mold wider than its height on ice; decorate the top 
and sides with fanciful cuts of gherkins, black truffles, lobster coral, tarragon leaves and red shrimp 
tails split in two, being careful to dip each separate decoration in half-set jelly. Harden a layer of 
jelly on the bottom of the mold, and when cold set another dome-shaped mold inside of it, having it 
‘led with pounded ice, but half an inch narrower than the first one; pour some half-set jelly 
between the intersections of the two molds to fill up the empty space entirely, and as soon as this 
is hard remove the smaller mold, after replacing the ice by warm water. Thicken the lobster prep- 
aration on ice while stirring, and pour into it two spoonfuls of good tarragon vinegar and some 
Dlanched cut-up tarragon leaves; pour all this into the empty coated mold and let rest for one 
hour. Unmold the dome on to a socle of carved rice two inches high (see Fig. 9a), having it round, 
and surround its base with the small cases, as described herewith: Put a dozen small china cases 
on ice to have thoroughly cold. Split across in two the meats of four or five lobster claws; cut 
these same meats into small rounds with a tin tube, having them half an inch in diameter and an 
eighth of aninch thick; lay them in a small vessel with half the quantity of rounds of truffles and 
two or three spoonfuls of rounds of gherkin, all being of the same size as the lobster; season with 
salt, a dash of cayenne, oil and vinegar, leaving them to macerate from twelve to fi fteen minutes. 
Drain off the seasoning and thicken it with blond chaudfroid sauce, made by mixing white and 
brown chaudfroid, mingled with two spoonfuls of mayonnaise (No. 606) and a pinch of chopped 
tarragon leaves. Fill the cases with this preparation, covering the tops with a layer of mayon- 
naise finished with tarragon vinegar. 


752 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2482), DUCKLIN G, WITH SPANISH OLIVES (Caneton aux Olives d’Espagne), 


Singe, draw and clean a duckling, then bone it from the ribs. Mix in a vessel equal quantities 
of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64) and chicken forcemeat (No. 73); add two spoonfuls of tomato 
purée (No. 730) and a large salpicon of cooked foies-gras. With this dressing fill the body and 
breast of the duckling where the pouch was; sew up the skin underneath, and truss it with the legs 
thrust inside as for an entrée (No. 178); lard over and wrap it in thin muslin, then cook slowly for 
one hour in some stock (No. 194a). Drain off the duckling, tighten the cloth and let get cold, after 
unwrapping and untrussing it; detach the breast, keeping it whole, and cut it into slices without. 
misshaping it; then return it to its original place. Wipe the duckling well, and cut a piece from 
underneath so that it will stand plumb, and set it on a grate; cover it over with some excellent 
brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), finished with tomato sauce (No. 549) and reduced with Madeira 
wine. After this sauce has drained off well keep the duckling for ten minutes in the ice-box; 
remove and dress it on a thick layer of jelly that has stiffened on a dish, and surround both sides 
and front with a garnishing of large Spanish olives, stuffed with foies-gras and covered with brown 
chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). 


| (2483), FOIES-GRAS IN BORDER (Foies-Gras en Bordure), - 


Open‘a terrine of foies-gras; suppress all the top fat and keep on ice for two or three hours. 
Fill a fancy border mold (Fig. 470) with fine cold aspic jelly (No. 103), and put it on ice for one hour. 
Cut up the contents of the terrine with a thin steel spoon the size and shape of a tablespoon, dipping 
it each time into warm water; should this cutting be neatly done the pieces will each acquire the 
shape of the spoon, rounded lightly; lay all of these as fast as they are done on a cold baking 
sheet, one beside the other, repairing those that may have been -broken during the process, and 
put them away on ice for a quarter of an hour. Just when prepared to serve dip the border mold 
into warm water, wipe neatly, and invert the mold on a cold dish, having a wooden or tin 
foundation in the center exactly the same size and covered with white paper; on this foundation 
dress the pieces of foies-gras pyramidically, placing the poorest looking ones underneath, and piling 
the remainder into a steep pyramid. 


(2484), FOIES-GRAS ve CRADLE, TO BE CUT IN SLICES (Foies-Gras en Berceau, pour étre 
Coupé en Tranches), ~ 


Prepare one pound and a half of baking foreemeat (No. 64); let this foreemeat become quite 
cold, then pound and rub it through a sieve. Chop up two pounds of lean veal with a pound and 
a quarter of fresh fat pork, and pound this to a pulp also; season and lay it in a bowl to mix with 
three or four raw, chopped truffles, and add liver baking forcemeat. Butter. cradle-shaped 
molds, and cover the insides with a thin layer of the forcemeat, leaving an empty space in 
the center; fill up this vacancy with large strips of raw foies-gras, season and intermingle them 
with forcemeat and cut-up raw truffles; cover this over with more of the forcemeat and with slices. 
of fat pork. Lay the mold on a raised-edge baking sheet containing a little water, push it into a 
slack oven and bake for an hour and a quarter; when removed, cool under the pressure of a slight 
weight. These pies are useful for cutting up in slices. 


(2485a). GALANTINE OF CHICKEN (Galantine de Poulet), 
Singe one large chicken, suppress the neck and drumsticks, also the pinion bones; split it in 
two down the back and bone it entirely. Spread the chicken out on a table, remove part of the 
breast meats and lay them on the skin where there is no meat. Also remove the meat from the 








Fia. 484. 


legs, suppress the sinews and chop them up and place in a vessel; also chop up three-quarters of a 
pound of lean veal and an equal amount of fresh fat pork and add it to the legs; add a quarter of 
« pound of blanched fat pork, cut in half-inch squares, and an equal quantity of cooked red beef 
tongue; add a few quartered truffles and a few peeled pistachios; season and pour over a few spoon- 


+] 
: 
af 3 
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CORD sScRVicH ee 


fuls of Madeira wine. Season the inside of the chicken, fill it with the contents of the bowl, alter- 
nating with the forcemeat, then roll the boned chicken into an oblong shape, sew it up and wrap: 
it in a cloth, tightening it well, then tie it at the two ends and in the center. Place it in a long. 
saucepan with the broken-up bones and two or three calves’ feet; moisten liberally with stock (No. 
194a) and boil while skimming; cook the boned chicken slowly for an hour and a half, then drain;. 
ten minutes later unwrap, remove the thread and wrap it up once more in the same cloth, 
after it has been well washed, tying it this time with five rows of string—two at the ends, one in the 
center, and two between; let cool off under a light weight for six hours. After it is finally un- 
wrapped, pare and glaze with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596) so as to be able to decorate with: 
truffles; cool and cover with a layer of partly cold jelly, dress on a small rice or hominy socle (Fig. 
9a), and surround with chopped jelly and crofitons (No. 2442) prepared with the galantine stock. 
- itself. 


(2485b), TRUFFLE DECORATIONS (Ornements en Truffes), 


For these decorations select large, mellow, sound black marbled truffles; cut them 
into thin slices a sixteenth of an inch thick, and arrange them as in shown Fig. 485. These 
truffle decorations are taken up with a metal needle, then dipped into half-set jelly, and applied 
to the object required to be decorated, the principal aim being to dispose them very regularly, 





Fic. 485. 


and arrange thei with taste. Truffle decorations can also be made by cutting the truffles as thin 
as a thread with a knife, and placing them at once in Madeira wine until required for use, then 
drip and lay them on a napkin. With these imitate the outlines of landscapes or any other orna- 
mentation, using them for tracing designs imitating pen or pencil drawings. When the design 1s 
finished coat over with half-set white jelly. 


(9486), GALANTINE OF OHIOKEN A LA DORLEANS (Galantine de Poulet & la d'Orléans) 

Bone two young chickens weighing two pounds each; leave on only ot mae peat git 
to the breasts, and suppress the leg meats; remove some of the breast oe a eae ae 
and place it where the skin is bare. These chickens when boned and mak ae d on y ‘ : a 
two pounds and a half each. Fill them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), Sg ee | noi a 3 does 
of truffles, pistachios, tongue and foies-gras, all cut In quarter-inch wit # ea nam ? 
(No. 194a) for two hours, unwrap, wash out the cloths and rewrap them as ? i 4 g a 
by one end on a hook, and to the other end fasten a sufficiently gps eda oe si re fs 
for twelve hours; unwrap and pare them alike, then cover with an ordinary white chaudtroid (No. 


54 _ THE EPICUREAN. 


596); decorate the tops with fanciful designs of truffles dipped in half-set jelly so they adhere 
well to the galantines; when thoroughly fastened coat over with jelly spread over with a funnel 


° 




































































made for this purpose (Fig. 759), and stand them against the support; place one on each side. The 
cup is filled with small truffles. Arrange some squares of jelly around the support, and chopped 
jelly between the support and crotitons, as shown in the drawing. 


(2487), GALANTINE OF DUCKLING, PEAR-SHAPED (Galantine de Caneton en Forme de Poire) 


Bone a cleaned and singed duckling, leaving on one leg; season the inside meats and fill with 
pounded galantine forcemeat (No. 65) mixed with half as much baking forcemeat (No. 81), and a 
salpicon of lambs’ sweetbreads, mushrooms and truffles, to be cut in quarter-inch squares, also some 
cooked and cold veal udder. Restore the duckling to its original shape, sew it up, inclosing its 
contents, and mold it in a bottomless mold, shaped like a pear; braise in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) 
for an hour and a half in a slack oven, basting frequently. When done drain and place this mold 
on a buttered baking sheet and leave it to cool under the pressure of a weight; glaze over with a 
light green chaudfroid sauce (No. 595), smear one side of the galantine with a piece of wadding 
that has been rubbed on very finely powdered carmine, and coat with a layer of half-set jelly; at 
the end stick in either a natural or artificial pear-stalk with a few leaves around and surround, when 
dished, with a border of chopped jelly and crofitons. 


(2488), GALANTINE OF EEL, DECORATED (Galantine d’Anguille Décorée), 


Skin a large Niagara eel, take out the middle bone, season and fill it with fish quenelle force- 
meat (No. 90), mixing into it truffles and pistachios, seasoning it well. Inclose this dressing in the 
eel and lay it in a well-buttered Savarin mold, baste over with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) 
and cover with bards of fat pork. Place this mold in a low saucepan containing a little water and 
push it into a slack oven: when the fish is properly done, remove and leave it to cool off in the 
mold under the pressure of a light weight, then turn it out and dress on a round dish; cover over 





COLD SERVICE. 155 


with Cambridge butter (No. 570), decorate with cuts of truffle, the red part of a lobster, tarragon 
Jeayes and a small stalk of chervil; garnish around with quartered hard-boiled eggs (No. 2513) 
and fill the center with a macédoine salad (No. 2650) dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); serve 
with a separate tartar sauce (No. 631). 


(2489), GALANTINE OF GOSLING, MELON-SHAPED (Galantine d’Oison en Forme de Melon), 


After singeing and boiling a gosling remove all its meat, spread out the skin on a buttered 
napkin, cut up the breast into five-eighths of an inch squares, suppress all sinews from the legs 
and add as much pork meat and veal meat to obtain a pound and a half in all; chop this well, then 
‘chop separately a pound of fat pork, and half a,pound of beef marrow. Pound all well together and 
mix in with the pulp a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, some finely cut-up mushrooms, salt, spices 
No. 2 (No. 168), and a few egg-yolks. . Lay this forcemeat on the skin and close up the napkin, 
giving it a round shape; tie and cook in a stock (No. 194a). Unwrap and then retighten the 
napkin and flatten lightly, so as to give it the shape of a melon; let cool for twenty-four hours, 
afterward imitate a melon by cutting eight half-inch deep grooves from top to bottom, glazing it 
over with white chaudfroid (No. 596) colored with yellow. Paint it with spinach green (No. 37) 
to imitate a cantaloup melon, and coat with layers of half-set jelly. Imitate the stalk and 
melon leaves with modeling fat (No. 56) and dress it on a dish, garnishing around with chopped 
jelly and crofitons of jelly. | 


(2490), GALANTINES OF GUINEA FOWL A LA LYTTON (Galantines de Pintades & la Lytton). 


Bone entirely three young guinea fowls, spread them on the table, remove the thigh meats, 
suppress the sinews of the fillets and all the superfluous fat; cut the fillets in two on their thickness 
and use them to lay where the meat is lacking, then fill them with chicken quenelle forcemeat 
(No. 89) mingled with a salpicon of truffles, pistachios and udder, all cut in three-sixteenths inch 
squares and well mixed; they should, when stuffed, each weigh two pounds. Cover the entire 
‘outside with very thin slices of fat pork and wrap them up in napkins; roll all the same thickness 
and put on to cook in some stock (No. 194a) for one hour and a half, then drain, unwrap and wash 
out the napkins; wrap them up again without the fat pork and hang them on a hook, fastening a 
weight to the end of each one so as to have them well pressed; when very cold unwrap once more 
and pare again; cover them over with white chaudfroid (No. 596), decorate with black truffles, 
coat with jelly and dress them on a dish against an upright or sloping supporting piece, it being 
two inches across at the summit and six at the base by five inches in height, covered over with ray- 
igote butter (No. 583), and strew chopped parsley over. Set a cup on top of the summit, filled 
with truffles. Make truffle balls with foies-gras taken from a terrine, pounded and rubbed 
through a sieve; when very cold form this into inch and a quarter diameter balls, roll 
them in truffle peelings that have been finely chopped and passed through a sieve. When these 
imitated truffles are very cold dip them in half-set jelly and lay each one in a white paper crimped 
case the same size as themselves; place these also between the galantines and garnish all around 
with chopped jelly and jelly crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2491), GALANTINES OF PARTRIDGES ALA OLEMENTINE (Galantines de Perdreaux a la 
Clémentine), : 


Choose three nice partridges; bone and open them on the table; decrease the thickest parts of 
the meats to place them on the thinner spots, then season well; cover with game galantine force- 
meat (No. 66) pounded and forced through a sieve. On this place lengthways some lardons (No. 
1, Fig. 52) of blanched fat pork, some truffles, cooked beef tongue and foies-gras; cover with more 
forcemeat and repeat the operation, finishing with the forcemeat; enclose well in the partridge 
skin and roll up in separate cloths, tying them at both ends and in the center; the three must be 
of the same weight—a pound and a half apiece—and rolled to the same length. Simmer them in 
some stock (No. 194a) for two hours; drain and leave cool partly, then roll them up tight in a clean 
cloth, tie both ends and the center again and hang them up, fastening a ten-pound weight or more 
to the bottom of each one; leave till quite cold, then unwrap and pare to an equal size and shape; 
cover with white chaudfroid (No. 596); decorate with truffles and mask over with jelly, then leave 
to get quite cold. These galantines are to be dressed on a round dish with swan | support dressed 
on the stearine foundation; place a galantine between each swan. Bone a partridge thoroughly, 
remove all the skin and sinews and cut it up in small quarter-inch pieces, fry them in oil with 
garlic, mignonette and cayenne, wet with good vinegar and broth and let simmer; when the meats 
are done and the moisture reduced add a little jelly. ‘Prepare some pretty, red peeled tomatoes, 


796 THE BHPICUREHAN. 


empty them, arrange on a baking sheet, fill them with this preparation, replace the covers and when 
cold glaze over with half-set jelly and lay them between the galantines. Have a griffon socle pre- 
pared as for the ballotines a la Madison (see Fig. 453), place in the shells of the socle some stuffed 
mushroom heads (No. 2517) glazed with brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Garnish the bottom of the 


Tite: 





Fia. 487. 


socle with cases of stuffed thrushes or larks all glazed over with blond chaudfroid; between each of 
these cases lay a carved hominy croustade filled with chopped jelly, with the streaked minion 
fillets formed into rings on the top. Finish decorating the whole with a stearine cup placed on the 
support, having it filled with small glazed truffles; around the base place a garland of smilax or 
other greens. t 


(2492), GALANTINES OF PARTRIDGES AND SLICED IN BELLEVUE (Galantines de Perdreaux 
en Tranches et en Bellevue), 


Procure two or three fresh, plucked and singed partridges; bone them through the back; 
Suppress the largest ‘sinews from the legs and fillets, and season; remove all the meat 
attached to the bones and carcasses. Prepare a fine foreemeat (No. 65), pound and mix 
with it the chopped parings of the birds and half as much liver baking forcemeat (No. 81); pound, 
strain and season. Put into a bowl some strips of blanched fat pork a quarter of an inch square, 
mix with them some truffles and red beef tongue, cut the same. Fill the partridges with the force- 
meat; reconstruct them to their original shape and sew up; wrap them in small cloths, tying them 
at the ends and in the center. Cook these galantines slowly for one hour and a quarter in some 
good unskimmed stock (No. 194a). After taking them out, remove the cloths and wrap them up. 
once more, only much tighter, and let cool off under a light weight; finally, unwrap, pare, glaze 
and serve, either whole or cut up, garnished with jelly. 


In Belleoue.—Have a boned partridge cooled under a weight as for the above; cut it into 
slices; pare them into even ovals all of the same thickness, then glaze with game glaze (No. 398) on 
one side only, using a brush; lay on the center of each a thin slice of truffle cut out with a column 
tube. Let a thin layer of clear jelly harden on a small baking tin; when stiff, range the slices on top, 
pressing the pieces down on the glazed side, one beside the other, then pour in between them enough 
cold jelly to reach as high as the slices; cool this for one hour on ice. At the last moment slit all 
around these slices with the heated tip of a small knife, then warm the bottom of the pan with a 
cloth dipped in hot water to enable the slices to be removed with the jelly attached, and dress in a 


circle on a cold dish. Garnish the center with chopped jelly and around with crofitons of jelly 
(No. 2442). 


(2493), GALANTINE OF PARTRIDGE, ELIZABETH (Galantine de Perdreau Elisabeth), 


Pare some quarter-inch thick slices of a boned partridge prepared as in Bellevue (No. 2492) 
into half-heart shapes; glaze and on each one lay a fine slice of black and well marbleized truffle, 
cover with jelly and dressthem in a circle, filling the center with a Russian salad (No. 2645), and 
around with artichoke bottoms, garnished with seasoned macédoine (No. 2650). 





Bs 
’ 
COLD SERVICE. V5? 


(2494), GALANTINE OF PHEASANT A LA LORENZO (Galantine de Faisan & la Lorenzo), 


Fry colorless in butter one pound of fat chicken livers; keep half of the finest ones 
aside. Chop up finely one pound of partridge meat and the same quantity of fat pork; season 
highly with salt, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg; stir well together, adding four egg-yolks and half 
of the liver well pounded; press the whole through a tammy and then put in an onion cut in one- 
eighth cf an inch squares, blanched and fried colorless in butter, and some finely chopped 
parsley. Bone a pheasant, spread it open on the table, remove half of the thickness of the fillets, 
equalize the meats throughout the entire surface of the skin, then lay a third of the prepared force- 
meat over, on this half of the livers laid aside, and the same quantity of quartered truffles; now 
another layer of the forcemeat, and scatter here and there the rest of the livers and as many 
truffies; spread all that remains of the foreemeat, and enclose the whole well in the pheasant skin; 
sew and roll the galantine in a napkin; tie it firmly at both ends and in the center, and place it in 
a braziere with a knuckle of veal and the game carcasses, a bunch of garnished parsley (No. 123), 
an onion containing two cloves, and a carrot cut in four; moisten with plenty of stock (No. 194a), 
cook slowly for two and a half hours, then leave to cool off in the stock for one hour; unwrap and 
remold it once more, this time placing it under a weight. When the galantine is thoroughly cold, 
unwrap and pare it nicely, then cover it over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and decorate with 
cut-up truffles, pistachios, tongue, and egg-white; lay it on a small three-inch thick socle made of 
carved rice. Prepare sixteen larks by boning and filling them with forcemeat composed of half 
foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) and half game forcemeat (No. 75) and chopped truffles; cook them 
in No. 3 mousseline molds, having the breasts downward; prepare the same number of streaked 
partridge minion fillets, form them in the shape of rings two and a quarter inches in diameter, 
and lay each one on a separate piece of buttered paper; fill the centers with game cream 
forcemeat (No. 75), and poach in a slack oven. Put some No.1 mousseline molds on a baking 
sheet, having ice around; on the bottoms form an eye of egg-white and truffle, and coat the mold 
with brown chaudfroid’ (No. 594); lay the cold unmolded larks in the center and fill up with 
chaudfroid. Turn them out only when very cold and arrange them around the galantine with 
the minion fillets between. Decorate around the socle with finely chopped jelly made with the 
stock. Bellevue hatelets may be fastened in the top of galantine if so desired. 


(2495), GALANTINE OF PHEASANT OUT UP (Galantine de Faisan Découpée), 


This entrée is dressed on a wooden foundation fastened to a dish and covered with white paper, 
having in its center a small convex-shaped support made of tin, quite low, and covered with white 
paper. Singe two clean pheasants, bone the largest one by splitting it down the back, remove the 
meats from the legs and decrease the thickness from the breast meat; then cut this up into large 
shreds and lay them in a bowl, adding the breast meat of the other pheasant, pared and cut the 
same; also add strips of raw trufile, strips of blanched fat pork or udder, strips of foies-gras and 





lastly a few shreds of lean cooked ham or cooked red beef tongue; season highly, pour over 
some Madeira wine and let macerate for one hour. Chop up the leg meats with the carcass parings 
and mix them with a chopped forcemeat made of game meats and lean veal and as much chopped 
fat pork, then season. With this chopped forcemeat and the macerated meats in the bowl 
prepare the boned pheasant the same as the boned pullet No. 2497, sew it up and wrap it 
in a cloth, then cook it for one hour and a half, cooling it off afterward under a weight. Pare the 
cold boned pheasant, cut it in slices and dress them one overlapping the other on the support, and 
glaze over lightly with a brush. Surround both sides of these slices with a few boned larks cov- 
ered with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and around these push a rope of chopped jelly through a 
cornet; surround the paper-covered bottom with pretty crofitons of jelly, and on one end of the 
galantine of pheasant stick a hatelet garnished with truffles. 


708. THE EPICUREAN. 


(2496), GALANTINE OF PIGEONS (Galantine de Pigeons), — 


Bone three large, tender, clean and singed pigeons, season the inside meat and fill them 
with forcemeat (No. 65), mingled with a little baking forcemeat (No. 81) and a few spoonfuls of 
truffles cut in dice. Return them to their former shape, sew up and wrap each one in a sepa- 
rate piece of muslin, then cook them for one hour in a good stock; when done properly, unwrap, 
tighten more and let get cold under the pressure of a weight. When ready to use, take the pigeons. 
from the cloths, glaze them over, cut in slices and dress with jelly. 


(2497), GALANTINE OF PULLET OR CAPON A LA MOZART (Galantine de Poularde ou de 
Chapon 4 la Mozart), 


This cold entrée can be dressed on a support slightly higher in the middle, covered with cooked! 
paste (No. 131) and dried in the air. Singe a not too fat pullet, split it down the back, bone en- 
tirely, and season the inside. Prepare this pullet the same as a galantine of turkey a la Berger. 
(No. 2499), and sew it up; wrap it well and cook for one hour and a half. to two hours in clear, 
unskimmed stock (No. 194a), having the pullet bones added, and two or three:boned and blanched. 


} ; ‘ ; 
eo Mee owe 





calves’ feet, some roots, onions and aromatic herbs. When the boned pullet has cooked tor a: 
sufficient length of time, drain it off and unwrap it; wrap it up once more and reshape it, tying it: 
very tight, and then place it to cool under the pressure of a weight: When cold, pare off the ends. 
and cut it up into equally thick slices, and divide each of these slices into two; dress them neatly 
in a single row on the support; garnish around with cocks’-combs and mushrooms covered over 
with chaudfroid, intermingled with chopped jelly, and besides have a few small cases filled with. 
glazed truffles. 


(2498), GALANTINE OF SUOKLING PIG (Galantine de Cochon de Lait), 


Prepare a suckling pig the same as for No. 1810, singe and bone it completely without pierc-: 
ing the skin, keeping on the four feet and removing the head. Remove the meat or fat from the. 
different parts where there is too much. Stuffthe gaiantine with a salpicon of truffles, one pound. 
of red tongue mixed with pork forcemeat (No. 68) and.a pound of blanched fat pork—the truffles, | 
red tongue and fat pork cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. Season with salt, prepared red pepper’ 
(No. 168) and nutmeg; wrap it up ina cloth and roll without pulling or shortening the length of the. 
skin and keeping the feet in their natural position. Lay it in a braziere lined with fat pork and. 
garnish around with vegetables and uncooked pig’s feet; moisten with white wine, season with salt: 
and whole peppers, and let cook without. boiling for four to five hours.. Drain, cool, unwrap partly 
and roll up again, then tie the cloth firmly at both ends of the galantine, and hang it up with a 
sufficiently strong weight on the bottom. When thoroughly cold, unwrap and glaze it a daik 
color; put back the head, which has been blanched for half an hour and allowed to cool, and decorate: 
the whole with fanciful cuts of egg-white, tongue, truffles, gherkins and ornamental hatelets; dress: 
on a rice foundation and surround with chopped jelly and jelly crofitons. 


(2499), GALANTINE OF TURKEY A LA BERGER—BONED TURKEY (Galantine & la Berger), 


Bone a small turkey after having cut off the wings, the legs and the neck. Begin by cutting 
the skin down its entire length, commencing from the middle of the neck and ending at the middle. 
of the rump, using a small thin knife and following the outlines of the rib bones; then remove the 
breast bone and the second joint bones, suppress the meat from the latter and chop it up finely; 
remove all sinews from the fillets, cut away a part of their thickness and place them where the legs. 
were taken from. Prepare a well-seasoned chopped forcemeat (No. 65), mix well together, 
adding half a gill of brandy, truffle essence (No. 395) and one ounce of chopped truffles. Out. 
half a pound of fat pork into half-inch squares, blanch and drain; have also half a pound. 
0! unsmoked red beef tongue cut in half-inch squares, five ounces of peeled truffles cut im 





COLD SERVICE. | 759. 


pieces, and three-quarters of a pound of duck or goose livers, parboiled, cold and cut in half-inch: 
dice. With this and the forcemeat stuff the turkey, then wrap it up in a cloth and let cook in: 
some good stock fortwo hours. Drain off well, take off the cloth and wrap it up again before: 
setting under the press. When thoroughly cold unwrap, pare and cover with a white fecula. 






































Fie. 490. 


chaudfroid sauce (No. 593), and decorate with fanciful cuts of very black truffles and pistachios 
dipped in half-set jelly; as soon as this is quite hard, cover with half-set jelly and dress ona 
trimmed crotiton of cooked hominy or rice. Garnish around with chopped jelly and have an outside 
border of jelly crofitons. Stick one Bellevue hatelet (No. 2526) in the center of the turkey, and two 
garnished hatelets (No. 2526) on each side. 


GARNISHINGS FOR COLD DISHES (Garnitures Pour Piéces Froides),. 


(2500). GARNISHING OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS FILLED WITH MACEDOINE (Garniture de? 
Fonds d’Artichauts Garnis de Macédoine), 


Artichoke Bottoms.—Trim some small round artichoke bottoms two inches in diameter; rub 
over with lemon and blanch in plenty of water; cook them ina white stock (No. 182) seasoned 
with salt and lemon juice, putting in also half a pound of chopped beef marrow; cover with but- 
tered paper and boil slowly. When the bottoms are well done remove from the fire, place them into » 
a stone bowl, cover with buttered paper and leave to cool in their liquid; wash them off in boiling 
water, marinate and drain. Lay each bottom on a turnip cut out to imitate the base of a vase, and . 
fill with either macédoine salad (No. 2650) or a separate vegetable: carrots, turnips, green peas, 
cauliflower, string beans, asparagus tops, crawfish tails, or else a salpicon of tongue, truffles and 
mushrooms mixed in even parts and mingled with mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2501), GARNISHING OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, IMPERIAL (Garniture de Fonds d’Artichauts 
a l’'Tmpériale), 

Prepare and cook some artichoke bottoms asin No. 2500; they must be thick and not too broad; 
Wipe dry and lay them on a small baking sheet; keep on ice. Prepare a cooked truffle salad, they 
to be cut in quarter-inch dice, small green asparagus tops and celery roots cut up the same as the 
truffles; season this salad with salt, oil, vinegar and mustard. Drain off this seasoning one hour 
later and thicken it with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). With this preparation fill the hollow parts 
of the artichoke bottoms, arranging each one in a pyramid; smooth the surface and cover lightly 
with jellied mayonnaise, decorate with fanciful cuts of gherkins and replace on the ice for tem 
minutes before serving. 


¥60 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2502). GARNISHING OF EGGS A LA DEVELLE (Garniture d'ufs & la Develle). 


Cut in two crossways seven or eight shelled hard-boiled eggs; use only the halves with the 
rounded ends and from them remove all the yolks and rub through a sieve; put this into a small vessel 
and add to ita little cold aspic jelly (No. 108); (scoop the whites out lightly). Pound the cooked meats 
of a small lobster, press through a sieve into a bowl and season with salt and a dash of cayenne; 
add first two spoonfuls of white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), then some mayonnaise sauce (No. 
606), and lastly a few spoonfuls of the cold jelly; stir this preparation on ice to harden, then take up 
sufficient of it with a spoon and fill the hollow egg-whites, smoothing the tops dome-shaped; lay 
them in the ice box; when cold take them in the hand one by one and dip into a chaudfroid sauce, 
‘but only on the garnished side and as far down as this begins; have the sauce hardened. Dress 
-on jelly rings cut out with a pastry cutter, keeping the dish very cold. When the eggs are ready 
‘decorate the tops with fanciful cuts of truffles and a few small shrimp tails; dip them one by one 
in half-set jelly and stand them upright, each one inside of one of the jelly rings. 


(2503), CARNISHING OF EGGS A LA JARDINIBRE (Gamiture d’Eufs & la Jardiniare), 


Divide in two crossways fifteen hard-boiled eggs; keep only the halves having the roundest end 
and cut these off so that they stand upright. Remove the yolks from these halves and scoop the 
white out lightly, then fill up the hollow with a little finely cut macédoine salad (No. 2650) 
dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); smooth them into a dome and put aside on ice, then cover the 
dome with small carrot and gherkin balls cut in halves; brush over with half-set jelly and dress. 


(2504), GARNISHING OF EGGS, JULIETTE (Garniture d’Giufs Juliette), 


Fry thin slices of ham in butter without coloring; drain off the fat and place the ham under a 
weight; detach the glaze from the pan with alittle Madeira wine, a small quantity of half-glaze (No. 
400), and as much jelly (No. 103); reduce well. Pare the ham into half-hearts and cover them entirely 
with the sauce. Decorate a timbale mold (No. 1, Fig. 137) with pistachios and truffles; coat the dec- 
oration with a thick layer of the sauce and place in the center some small soft eggs just cooked 
enough to allow to peel; on these lay the ham, shredded fine, and the remainder of the sauce; when 
perfectly cold fill up with jelly, and as this becomes thoroughly cold invert the whole on a dish, 
having a layer of jelly on its bottom; surround with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). 


(2505), GARNISHING OF EGGS A LA JUSTINE Garniture d@Eufs & la Justine), 


Boil hard seven or eight eggs; when very cold, drain and shell. Incrust in pounded ice seven 
or eight tin molds the shape of half eggs, only just a little wider and higher; coat these with jelly. 
Cut each egg lengthways in two; take out the yolks and scoop out the whites with a vegetable spoon, 
leaving only a thin envelope; fill the empty inside of these half eggs with a chicken ‘‘ pain ” prep- 
aration (No. 2543), having it lightly buttered. Take up the stuffed eggs one by one on a wide ~ 
fork passed under the flat side; dip them in a good brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with 
pheasant fumet (No. 397); drain off the sauce and let the eggs cool, then pare the surplus of it, and 
decorate with thin cuts of truffles and gherkins; now place a half egg in each mold, and pour cold 
jelly around to fill up the spaces; when cold, unmold and dress in a rosette as a garnishing. 


(2506), GARNISHING OF EGGS A LA ROUENNAISE (Garniture d’Giufs & la Rouennaise), 


Divide in two lengthways seven or eight shelled hard-boiled eggs; take out the yolks to pound 
and rub through a sieve. Harden ona small baking sheet on ice a layer of fine jelly, having it 
a quarter of an inch thick; from this cut out with a heated pastry cutter eight oval crusts, having 
them two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter inches wide; form rings of these with a 
narrower pastry cutter, and detach them from the pan by warming it underneath; dress them in a 
rosette on a cold dish and keep it on ice. Fill the half eggs with a salpicon of cooked duckling 
fillets mixed with mushrooms and a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) mixed with soubise sauce 
(No. 543); smooth the preparation into domes, and cover the eggs entirely with a thin layer of 
white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). When this is quite cold, decorate the surfaces with fanciful 


cuts of truffles and with strings of pounded egg-yolk mixed with chaudfroid; lay one egg inside of 
each jelly ring. 








COLD SERVICE. 161 


2507), GARNISHING OF EGGS, BARREL-SHAPED (Garniture d’Giufs en Forme de Baril), 


Cut off both ends of seven or eight shelled hard-boiled (eggs imitate the shape of a small 
barrel); empty them from top to bottom with a small tin tube, and fill up the hole with a salpicon 
of lobster and truffles mingled with a thick mayonnaise (No. 606); lay them on a baking sheet, and 
let stand on ice for half an hour. On removing them, decorate the sides with thin fillets of 
anchovies, dipped in half-set jelly, and cover over the top platform with a pyramid of chopped jelly. 


(2508), GARNISHING OF HARD-BOILED EGGS, BASKET-SHAPED (Garniture 
. d’Giufs Durs en Forme de Corbeille), 

Cut off straight the ends of the hard-boiled egg and across through the 

center; take out the yolk from the upper parts, and fill them to a pointed 


shape with a salpicon of vegetables cut in small squares, and combined with 
a little mayonnaise (No. 606), or simply fill them with jelly. Wie. 491. 





1.2509), GARNISHING OF HARD EGGS IN CHAUDFROID (Garniture d’Giufs Durs en Chaudfroid), 


Have two oval pastry cutters—one two and a quarter inches long by oneand quarter wide, and 
another half an inch less in diameter; cut some slices of very red cooked beef tongue three-six- 
teenths of an inch thick, and cut them into ovals with the largest cutter; remove the center with 
the smallest cutter; glaze over the rings with a brush and dress on the bottom of a cold dish. Cut 
lengthways in two six shelled hard-boiled eggs, take out the yolks, garnish each half with a foies- 
gras purée preparation, having chopped truffles added; smooth the surfaces dome-shaped. Dip 
the half-stuffed eggs into a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), thickened to a proper consistency, 
and drain off the surplus, then dress a half egg into each ring. After the sauce is thoroughly cold 
decorate the tops with fanciful cuts of truffles, and dress. 


(2510). GARNISHING OF HALVED HARD-BOILED EGGS (Garniture de 
Moitiés d’ Gufs Durs), 

Cut some hard-boiled eggs lengthwise in two even parts, and a third across 
on the most rounded end; try and obtain the eggs all of even size. Dress 
the border so that the yolks face the exterior of the dish; on top of the whites 
place a small lozenge of angelica, or one of very thinand very red beetroot, 
_| Which ever is used should be cut very thin. All egg borders should be dressed 
Fia. 492. very regularly. 





(2511), GARNISHING OF EGGS, MOSCOVITE (Garniture d’Gufs Moscovite). 


Have a thin layer of aspic jelly (No. 108) three-eighths of an inch thick; harden on ice on a small 
baking sheet; from it cut out with a hot pastry cutter seven or eight rings sufficiently large to hold up 
the eggs inside of them. Cut crossways, two-thirds from the top, seven or eight shelled hard- 
boiled eggs; take out the yolks and pound them with a few anchovies and apiece of butter; rub 
this through a coarse sieve so it falls through like vermicelli, and keep cold. Scoop out the 
insides of the eggs lightly with a vegetable spoon, and fill them with a fine salpicon of crawfish 
mingled with thick tartar sauce (No. 631); leave for two minutes on ice; smooth the preparation 
into a dome form, and lay the eggs inside the jelly rings, to stand for a quarter of an hour longer 
on ice. After they are removed take up the vermicelli yolks with a fork, and cover the domes of 


the eggs with it. 


(9512), GARNISHING OF EGGS, POLISH STYLE (Garniture d’ufs a la Polonaise), 


Cut in small dice the cooked meats of some lobster claws, add to this salpicon the same 
quantity of oysters poached in white wine and half as much salt, cucumber or gherkin, and 
beside this the white of seven or eight hard-boiled eggs, also cut up in small dice; season the 
salpicon with oil, vinegar and mustard, and let macerate for one hour; drain on a sieve and return 
it to the same vessel {0 combine with some mayonnaise (No. 606). Dress this preparation in a 
small croustade, smooth the top and decorate with the egg-yolks pounded with a little ravigote 


butter (No. 583) pushed through a cornet. 


762 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2513), GARNISHING OF DECORATED QUARTERED EGGS (Garniture d’Giufs Durs en Quartiers 
Décorés), 

Choose some hard-boiled eggs, all of uniform size; cut them across the rounded ends and then 
lengthwise in four even-sized quarters; dress them so that the yolks. 
face outward. The whites may be decorated with small fanciful cuts. 
of very black truffles, red tongue and pistachios, by dipping them into 
half-set jelly, and applying them tastefully on the very cold eggs 
(Fig. 493). 

(2514), HARD-BOILED EGGS STUFFED WITH SALPICON 

(Eufs Durs Farcis au Salpicon), 
In f Incorporate some rather firm jelly into a little purée of foies- 
») : : | gras, spread it out on a baking sheet to half an inch in thickness 
| i | and leave to cool. With a pastry cutter remove from it some 
; Fie. 493. rounds two inches in diameter, and from these remove the center 
with an inch and a quarter pastry cutter. Place these rings in 
small shallow crimped paper cases. Cut some hard-boiled eggs in two through the center of 
their height, empty the interior of each half and refill them to a point with a 
half-inch salpicon of chicken, truffles, tongue and mushrooms, combined with 
a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); strew chopped parsley over. Lay these 
eggs on the rings and cover lightly with jelly. 





(2515), GARNISHING OF HARD-BOILED EGGS, VASE SHAPE (Garniture 
d’ufs Durs en Forme de Vase), 

Cut off a third of the length of the egg; use the most rounded end for 
the upper part and the pointed end for the base; stick these two parts to- 
gether with white chaudfroid (No. 596); take out ihe yolk and replace it by 
chopped jelly (Fig. 494). Fic. 494, 


(2516), GARNISHING OF WHOLE HARD-BOILED EGG-YOLKS (Garniture 
de Jaunes d’Giufs Durs Entiers), 

Have some small, even-sized hard-boiled egg-yolks; stand them on rings 
cut from gherkins or beef tongue; lay in a circle a fillet of anchovy two- 
thirds the height of these yolks; besprinkle the inside of this circle with 
finely chopped truffles, and on top place a green pistachio nut (Fig. 495). 





(2517). MUSHROOMS STUFFED AND GLAZED WITH CHAUDFROID 
(Champignons Farcis Glacés au Chaudfroid), 


Select even-sized mushrooms about an inch in 
diameter; empty out the interiors and fill them up 
= with foies-gras rubbed through a sieve. Fasten 

Fie. 495. them together, two by two, to form a ball, then 

glaze over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594); lay 

them on top of a ring of cooked beef tongue and on the summit place a 

circle cut from hard-boiled egg-white: fill the center of this circle with 

a round piece of very black truffle and coat the whole 
with half-set jelly (Fig. 496). 


(2518), GARNISHING OF STUFFED SPANISH Fig. 496. 
OLIVES (Garniture d’Olives d’Espagne Farcies), 
Stone some large Spanish olives with a tin tube sufficiently large to remove 
the stone; pare the olives very straight at both ends and fill up the hollow 


space with anchovy butter (No. 569); on top of the butter lay a green pistachio 
nut (Fig. 497). 





. (2519), GARNISHING OF OYSTERS IN CROUSTADES (Garniture d’Huitres 


| en Croustades), 
Drain and wipe some large blanched oysters; remove the muscle part and replace it by a round 


piece of lobster cut the same size. Make some small oval fine foundation paste croustades; cover 





COLD SERVICE. 163 


the insides with buttered paper, fill with rice, bake and empty; fill them halfway up with cooked 
mushrooms, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, mingled with a little well-seasoned blond 
chaudfroid, made by mixing a little brown chaudfroid (No. 594) with white chaudfroid (No. 596),. 
and over these lay the oysters; putin a layer of half-set jelly, applying it with a brush, and deco- 
rate each croustade with chervil leaves; cover with more jelly. 


(2520), GARNISHING OF OYSTERS WITH JELLY (Garniture d’Huitres & la Gelée), 

Open some large oysters, poach, remove the muscle and split them in two through their 
thickness; cover both sides with a layer of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and reshape them as before; 
then lay them slightly apart ona baking sheet; brush the surfaces several times with half-set jelly, 
and keep them for a few moments on ice; afterward remove by cutting away the jelly all around. 
with a plain pastry cutter dipped in hot water; detach the oysters from the sheet, heating this un- 
derneath, then dress. ! . 


(2521), HAM DECORATED A LA GATTI (Jambon Décoré & la Gatti, 

Have a ham prepared and cooked the same as for jelly (No. 2524); leave a part of the rind on 
the handle end, and cut it into sharp points by raising up, the edge of each point on one side; glaze 
the ham with white chaudfroid (No«596), all except the rind, which must be glazed with meat glaze 
(No. 402). a hes 




















Fie. 498. 


Decorate around the ham with a design of branches made of fillets of truffles and very greem 
pistachios; decorate the top with a rosette of truffles. Place the ham on asilver dish, having two 
tiers covered with ravigote butter (No. 583); decorate around the dish bottom with halved eggs. 
filled with chopped jelly, as shown in Fig. 498; surround the ham with chopped jelly, and the base 
with square jelly crofitons (No. 2442). Insert a piece of wood to take the place of the handle,. 
and trim it with a fancy frill (No. 10), and a hatelet on one side. 


(9522), HAM GLAZED WITH SUGAR (WJambon Glacé au Sucre), 


Hams are usually purchased already salted and smoked, for the pickling only succeeds when a 
large quantity are done at one time. The most essential point to observe is to have them recently 
smoked, of a young pig of a good breed. The easiest way to cook a ham is as follows: Cut off the 
end handle of a ten-pound ‘ham, shorten the loin bone, suppress a thin layer of the outside of the 
ham that is oversmoked, and then soak it for three hours in water; afterward place it ina large 
soup-pot or sauce-pan, covering with cold water; stand the vessel on the fire and bring it gradu- 
ally to a boil, then drain off this water, and replace it by tepid water; add some whole spices and 
aromatics. It must cook about fifteen minutes for each pound, or two and a half hours in all. 
Take the vessel from off the fire, and leave the ham to cool in: its liquid. Remove, drain thor- 
oughly, lift off the rind, and pare nicely, keeping it a pretty shape; bestrew with fine agar; and 
stand it on a baking tin; glaze to a fine color in a hot oven, remove, and when cold dress it ona 
bread foundation covered with ravigote butter (No. 583) and chopped parsley; surround the bottom 
of the dish with chopped jelly and cut-out croatons (for these see No. 2442). 


764 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2523), HAM TRUFFLED A LA FLORIAN (Jambon Truffé & la Florian), 

In order to succeed with this dish it will be found necessary to have an oval bomb-shaped 
copper-tinned mold, nine and a half inches long, six and three-quarters inches wide and four inches 
deep. This mold must be oiled on the outside and laid on an oiled marble slab, having the opening 
downward; around it place an iron ring twelve inches in length, ten inches wide and five and a 
half inches deep; place this ring in such a way that the mold will fit exactly in its center, fill the 
space between the mold and the ring with plaster of Paris wetted with a little water; smooth the 
































































































































Fie. 499. 


top nicely and leave it to harden; turn this ring over and take out the mold. Pare a twelve- 
pound freshly salted smoked ham neatly, unsalt it for ten hours, and boil it in water for an hour 
and a half, then braise in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) for three hours or more until 
the bones are easily detached from the meat; remove them, and pare the ham shapely, suppressing 
the skin and all the smoked parts, then lard it in every direction with quartered truffles and 
pistachios. Place this ham in the mold, the mold in the ring filled with plaster, and on the ham 
lay a board one inch less in diameter than the mold, and half an inch thick. Put under the press 
(No. 71), and when cold unmold and trim. Glaze over with pink chaudfroid, decorate with truffles 
and pistachios dipped in half-set jelly, cover over with jelly and lay it on a carved rice socle, hay- 
ing this ranged on an oval dish. Decorate the top with three hatelets, and around with chopped 
* jelly and a border of jelly crofitons (see Fig. 461). 


(2524), ENGLISH HAM WITH JELLY (WJambon Anglais 4 la Gelée), 
If freshly salted and smoked it is unnecessary to soak it; simply wash offin warm water, pare 
and saw the handle bone short, then put it into a large vessel, cover with cold water and bring this 


Ny 
ext 
Ge 























Fie. 500. 


to a boil, adding aromatic herbs; close the lid and leave to boil for three hours slowly, but continu- 
ously and regularly. Remove the vessel from the fire and allow the ham to cool off in this liquor. 
(A ham is cooked when the meat on the handle bone becomes soft.) Drain it off, suppress the 





COLD SERVICE. 765 


thick end bone and a part of the rind, leaving the leg end covered; pare and remove ali the 
upper part to cut up into even slices. Lay the ham on an oval wooden board covered wiih 
white paper and fastened on a dish, dress the cut slices in a circle on top of the ham and fill the 
center with chopped jelly; glaze the rind and the remaining whole piece with a brush and surround 
the base with a string of thick jelly pushed through a pocket; dress fine triangles of jelly (No. 2442) 
all around; fasten a jelly-decorated hatelet in the opposite end from the handle, slanting it nee 
(see drawing, Fig. 501). ; 


(2525), HAMS OF CHICKEN WITH ZAMPINO (Jambons de Poulet Garnis de Zampino), 


Bone thoroughly two good chickens weighing two pounds each, leaving on only the drumstick 
bones; separate each one in two lengthwise, season and fill each half with galantine forcemeat (No. 
65) and long shreds of cooked veal udder, also of very red beef tongue, raw foies-gras and quartered 
raw truffles, proceeding exactly the same as for boned chicken (No. 2485); bring the meats close 
together in order to sew up and wrap each of the halved boned chickens in a white cloth; cook for 
one hour in unskimmed white broth (No. 194a); drain the galantines and unwrap; lay on a baking 
sheet some bottomless molds in the shape of hams, having a slot in the thin end to allow the drum- 
stick to pass through, place the chickens in these and let get cold under the pressure of a light 
weight. Pare and disengage the pinion bone. They may now be cut in slices, reconstructing 
them as before, and keeping in shape with a thin skewer; cover the entire surface with white 
chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), that has become slightly thickened on ice. After this sauce is cold 
cover over the hams on the drumstick end with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), imitating the real 
skin of a pared ham; trim each ham bone with a frill (No. 10); dress them two by two on a rice 
foundation, withdraw the skewers and decorate the hams with fanciful cuts of very black truffles; 
surround with thin slices of zampino three inches in diameter and cut in two across and dress 
them around the foundation, one overlapping the other. Surround with a piping of chopped 
jelly and some jelly crofitons. 

Zampino of Modena.—Take one leg of a fresh pig about fifteen inches long, leaving the 
foot adhering; bone it carefully not to split the skin, turn the skin back and then remove the 
meat and fat: salt the skin plentifully, and leave it in brine for four to five days. After 
this time chop up coarsely ten pounds of lean pork meat with five pounds of beef, and mix these 
with five pounds of very finely chopped fresh pork rind. Season the mixture with ten ounces of 
salt, one ounce of crushed black pepper corns, a heavy pinch of cinnamon, a small pinch of 
saltpeter and one gill of red wine; mingle thoroughly. Now wash the skin in fresh water to ex- 
tract all the salt, turn it over to its normal position, and fill it with the above mixture; tie it firmly 
at the extreme end, and enwrap with a strong inch-wide tape, beginning at the smallest end of the 
zampino (that is, near the foot). Lay the zampino in a large kettle, cover plentifully with cold 
water, and stand it on a slow fire to have the liquid almost reach boiling point; then remove the 
kettle to a corner of the range and let barely bubble for an hour and a half to an hour and three- 
quarters. Take from the fire and leave to cool in the liquid; drain and remove the tape. This. 
zampino can be served hot with string beans as described in No. 1820. 


(2526). MISCELLANEOUS COLD HATELETS, BELLEVUE VEGETABLES; CROUTONS, 
QGHOPPED TRANSPARENT JELLY AND STICKY CHOPPED JELLY (Hatelets 
Froids Divers en Bellevue, de Légumes; de Crofitons et Gelée Hachée Transparente et 


de Gelée Hachée Collante), 

Cold hatelets are to be prepared with plain or double white cocks’-combs enveloped in 
jelly, and round, black, unpeeled truffles glazed over with meat glaze (No. 402). Others are 
made of trussed crawfish from which the small legs have been suppressed and the body shells 
rubbed over with a little oil, channeled mushrooms (No. 118) coated with jelly, chicken or game 
qaenelles (No. 91), decorated and molded .in Bellevue or simply covered, or else carved veg- 
etables blanched separately. These hatelets can also be composed of crawfish, lemons, truffles 
and mushrooms, having one small glazed truffle on top, a lightly oiled trussed crawfish under 
this truffle, and then a fine channeled glazed mushroom, having the upper part rounded, then a 
‘lemon cut into points; first one-half of the lemon, placed. with the points upward, then a round 
piece of truffle and the other half of the lemon, the points downward, and finished with a glazed. 
channeled mushroom, having the rounded end toward the bottom. 


766 THE EPICUREAN. 


Lean Hatelets for Fish are composed of shrimps, crawfish, truffles, mushrooms or lemon. 
Cocks’-combs are not admissible for this kind of hatelets. 

Bellevue Hatelets.—Prepare these hatelets as follows: Cut out with a tin tube three-fourths 
of an inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch in thickness, small rounds of chicken, cooked 
beef tongue and truffles; take pieces from the center with a smaller tin tube one-eighth of an inch 






































Fia. 501. 


in diameter; run a hatelet through six of these rounds, beginning first by putting a small round 
whole truffle, then a round of chicken, tongue and truffle; begin again with another round of 
chicken, tongue and truffle, leaving a space between each. Out off the upper crust of a loaf of 
bread, this to be six inches high; spread over the top to replace the crust a layer of butter a 


iia 
! i a 


“lt wt 
rn 
yf mn) 


W 


rs 





Fic. 502. Fic. 503. Fig. 504. 


quarter of an inch thick; on top place the hatelet cases or molds (Fig. 501); run through the metal 
hatelets decorated with the rounds exactly in the center, stand them upright, then fill the 
molds with cold jelly (No. 103) and keep them in a cool place for several hours. When ready to 
serve the pieces unmold these hatelets and ‘run a fine unpeeled, round and black truffle on each 


one then stick them into the piece. Carrots and turnips can be substituted for the chicken and 
ongue. 


. Vegetable Hatelets.—These hatelets are composed of vegetables or roots, imitating vases of 
various kinds; they are turned and carved with a knife, and formed of several pieces, then filled 
wit h artificial flowers made of vegetables, such as roses, camelias, lilies, or daisies; these flowers are 
colored by dipping them 1n a solution of aniline dissolved in alcohol and diluted with water. If 


these flowers are w ae ; 
. edih i, are W ell made they can imitate the natural ones most marvelously. They can be 
used plain, without any coloring, but this is a matter ‘of taste. a MOOSE 





COLD SERVICE. "6% 


For Chopped Transparent Jelly the fragments of jelly crofitons are generally used, chopping 

‘them on a moistened cloth with a large knife; they should be chopped sufficiently fine, still not 

allowing them to get thick looking; they may also be cut into small fine lengthwise strips abtorwian 
cutting them across in small squares; in this way they are sure to remain transparent. 3 





Fig. 505. Fia. 506. Fie. 507. 


Sticky Chopped Jelly is used for pushing through a pocket or paper cornet around acold meat 
piece, and is also frequently used to cover the surface of a high foundation that is to be used as a 
support. In order to obtain a sticky jelly, chop it up on a wet cloth, and sprinkle it over from time 
te time with some hot water, until it forms into a soft compact mass. This must be used at once. 


(2527), KERNES OF VEAL WITH MAYONNAISE TOMATOED SAUCE (Noix de Veau & la Sauce 
Mayonnaise Tomatée), 


Lard thoroughly a kernel of veal with ham and fat pork, cover it with slices of udder, and 
then braise. Have a dome-shaped terrine or mold; put the kernel in; strain in the stock, add to 
it a little gelatine if not consistent enough, and when cold turn it on a dish. Remold into another 
mold of similar shape, but an inch larger in diameter, decorated with cuts of vegetables; fill with 
jelly and when cold dress it on a carved rice socle and garnish around with balls of turnips and 
carrots, blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a) with a little sugar, and glazed; dress a butter 
border (No. 2444) or one of vegetables (No. 2443) on the edge of the dish, and serve apart a 
mayonnaise (No. 606) with some tomato purée (No. 730) added. 


(2528), KINGFISH FILLETS A LA VALENG(AY (Filets de Kingfish & la Valengay). 
| Pare oblong shape and cook ten to twelve small fillets of kingfish in a sautoir with white wine 
court-bouillon (No. 39); drain and let coul under a weight; trim them nicely, dip them singly into 
a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), ranging them immediately on to a baking sheet to cool off the 





sauce, then pare off the surplus of it. Decorate a third part of them on the smooth side with 
fancitul cuts of truffles or gherkins; cover them over with half-set jelly applied with a brush, and 
let this get cold, then dress them on an inch-high socle in pyramid form, placing the decorated ones 
on top. On one side fasten a hatelet garnished with shrimps. Uphold the fillets of fish on both 


768 THE EPICURBAN. 


sides w ith thick chopped jelly pushed through a cornet and surround, both right and left, with five 
or six large crawfish bodies, emptied and refilled with a salpicon of crawfish or lobster tails, com- 
bined with a salad of small vegetables dressed with mayonnaise (No, 606). Stand these bodies up- 
right to form a half circle, and brush over with half-set jelly; surround the base of the dish with 
fine jelly crofitons (No. 2442), and serve with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(9529), CHICKEN LEGS SHAPED AS DUCKLINGS (Cuisses de Poulet en forme de Canetons), 


Cut the leg three-quarters of an inch from the joint. Remove the bones belonging to the 
second joint, as well as a third part of the drumsticks; stuff the legs with quenelle forcemeat (No. 
89), introducing into it half as much foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78); mix in a third as much small 
three-sixteenths of an inch squares of tongue and mushroom, half of each, and raw fine herbs. 
Shape them to represent ducklings. Put in a sautoir some thin slices of fat pork and place the 
ducklings one beside the other. Braise, cool and pare off the under parts neatly, so that these 
imitated ducklings can stand plumb on their base, then glaze them with white chaudfroid (No. 
596), and form the wings with crawfish claws. Make artificial eyes and form the beak by cutting 
the bone slanting. Surround with green parsley leaves, and serve with a bowl of ravigote 
sauce (No. 623). 


(2530). LEG OF MUTTON A LA GARRISON (Gigot de Mouton & la Garrison). 


Line a buttered saucepan with onions, carrots and slices of round of veal, slices of fat pork and 
ham; in the middle lay a leg of mutton having the thick loin end boned, and add a bunch of pars- 
ley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, also two boned calves’ feet; moisten with stock (No. 194a), 
white wine and Madeira wine, a pint of each; let fall to a glaze and remoisten with stock; when it 
begins to boil skim and cover with a sheet of paper; push into the oven for four or five hours until 
the leg is thoroughly cooked, then transfer it to an oval vessel and leave till cold. Have a few 
dozen carrots and turnips cut in balls, also some small onions; blanch these and cook each kind sepa- 
rately in broth (No. 194a); when fallen to a glaze allow them to cool, thickening with a little jelly 
(No. 103). The leg being cold, trim it nicely, glaze over with meat glaze (No. 402), dress it in 
the center of a dish and surround with the jellied vegetables and jelly cut in eighth of an inch 
squares arranged in clusters. Decorate the leg with anchovy fillets, chervil and tarragon, dipped 
in half-set jelly, and surround by horseradish ribbons (No. 98). Skim the fat from the stock, add 
a seasoning of oil, vinegar, salt, mignonette, capers and gherkins, and serve in a sauce-boat when 
cold. Place on the bone the silver handle shown in Fig. 164. | 


(2531), LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER A LA RAVIGOTE (Homard ou Langouste @ la 
Ravigote). 

Boil a lobster in a plain court-bouillon (No. 38) and let it cool off under a weight with the tail 
stretched out. Remove the tail meats from underneath, leaving the shell attached to the body; pare 
the meats on the thickest end and cut them up into slightly bias slices so as to have them somewhat 
wider; season and place them flat on a tinned-copper tray; decorate the tops with lobster, eggs, 
tarragon leaves and chervil; cover the decorations with half-set jelly and keep in a cool place. 
Break the shells of the large claws so as to remove the meats and divide these in two lengthwise, 
then brush them over with half-set aspic jelly (No. 103). Cut in dice the meats of a small boiled 
lobster, put the pieces in a bowl with an equal quantity of cooked truffles, a few spoonfuls of 
cooked mushrooms and raw gherkins; season this salpicon and stir it on ice into some thick 
mayonnaise (No. 606), and with it cover ten to twelve small cooked equal-sized artichoke bottoms. 
Turn over the lobster body and fill the empty tail with thick jelly pushed through a pocket; dress 
at once in its natural state, the red side uppermost, ’ ‘on a long dish, moistening it with half-set 
jelly, laid on with a brush, to prevent the lobster from’ slipping off. On the top of the shell, from 
one end to the other, push two thick strings of butter préviously softened in a cloth and an inch 
and a quarter apart; between these strings range a bed of chopped ‘jelly, and on top of this dress 
the slices of lobster, one overlapping the other. On the right and left of the head lay the jelly 
covered claws and around the body have chopped jelly surrounded with the garnished artichoke 
bottoms, and around them a border of pretty jelly crofitons (No. 2442). Serve at the same time 
a ravigote sauce (No. 623), having the creamy parts of the lobster added to it. 


(2532), LOBSTER IN A BORDER (Homard en Bordure), 
Cut into quarter-inch squares, on the bias, the tail meat of two boiled lobsters, also the claws 
cut into four pieces; lay them in a deep dish and season with salt, oil and vinegar. Incrust in 


COLD SERVICE. TOP 


ice a plain border mold (Fig. 139), coat the inside with clear jelly (No. 108); cut some hard-boiled’ 
eggs into four pieces, that is once lengthwise and then each half egg once across; fasten to the 
yolks small sprigs of green chervil dipped in jelly, and fill the border mold with these eggs; them. 
pour into the bottom a little melted jelly; let it set, add about half an inch more, and when: 
this begins to harden fill up the mold, and let it remain on ice until the jelly is perfectly firm;, 
then turn the mold over ona cold dish. Fill the inside empty space as high as the jelly with 
a vegetable salad (No. 2650), thickened with jellied mayonnaise (No. 6138); dress on top the slices. 
of lobster, covering the whole with jellied mayonnaise; cover with more jelly, and set on top the: 


claws dipped in jelly. A mayonnaise printaniére (No. 612) should be served separately. 


(2533). LOBSTER TAILS IN THEIR SHELLS (Queues de Homards dans leurs Coquilles), 


Detach the bodies, claws and tails from five small cooked lobsters; open the claw shelis to 
remove the meats. Cut the five lobster tails lengthways, both meat and shell together; remove the 
meats from these ten halved shells, wipe the shells neatly, and fill the bottoms with a layer of 
preparation made with the lobster parings, truffles and mushrooms, mingled with a little chaudfroid 
sauce (No. 606), and finished with a dash of cayenne pepper. Season the tail meats and cut them 





Fie. 509. 


up slanting without spoiling their shape, and dip them into half-set jelly; then replace each one im 
its half shell, the red side uppermost, and lay them aside in a cool place. This entrée is to be 
dressed on a dish foundation having in the center a pyramidical support, both of which are to be- 
covered with white paper, then with a layer of thick chopped jelly pushed through a pocket; the: 
halved tails are to be dressed with the points upward, five on each side; the claws are to stand: 
upright on top of the support, and surrounded by green parsley leaves. The base of the halved! 
tails is also to be surrounded by fresh parsley, and the bottom of the dish with pretty jelly 
croutons (No. 2442). As soon as the entrée is dressed place it in the ice-box until ready to serve,. 
then send it to the table with a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2534), LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER WITH. MAYONNAISE (Homard ou Langouste & la 
Mayonnaise). 

Cook a large lobster; drain and let get cold with the tail stretched out. Detach the large claws: 
and divide the body lengthwise in two; remove the meats whole from each halved tail, and cut 
them up slanting, but without deforming them. Wipe well the empty tail shells and fill them half 
way with chopped jelly, then return the meats to the shells upside down so that the red part is 
uppermost. Suppress the black vein from the center of the bodies, also the creamy parts, and rub 
these through a sieve and add them to a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Dress the two halves of 
the lobster on a napkin or dish, and in the hollow space formed by the shells place a bunch of 
parsley leaves; on this dress the lobster claws in their shells, after suppressing half of them, and 
surround the lobster on the bottom of the dish with a string of chopped jelly, and around this lay 
either crofiitons of jelly or halved hard-boiled eggs filled with a salad of vegetables (No. 2650); 
serve the mayonnaise sauce separately. 


(2535), MOUSSELINES OF FOIES-GRAS A LA DANA (Mousselines de Foies-Gras & la Dana, 
Prepare a frothy preparation with foies-gras in the following manner: Pound one pound of foies- 
gras taken from a terrine, pass the pulp through a sieve, season, lay it in a thin 1ron vessel and beat 
well, adding a gill of melted glaze (No. 402) and two gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), to 


270 THE EPICUREAN. 


make the preparation of a good consistency when cold. After it has become smooth stir in slowly 
the equal quantity of a pint of well-drained whipped cream without sugar. Range on pounded ice 
fifteen quenelle molds (Fig. 76); cover the insides of these to half their height with the frothy 
preparation, forming a hollow in the center, and into this lay a slice of foies-gras three-sixteenths 
of an inch thick and cut egg-shaped; finish filling the molds with the same preparation, smooth 
the tops, having them perfectly flat, and then set the molds on ice for one hour. Dip them into 
hot water, unmold the mousselines on a cold baking sheet and cover each one with brown 
chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). After this has become quite cold dress the mousselines in a 
pyramid inside a jelly border. Garnish around the border with clear jelly cut into very small 
dice, and outside of this place a row of jelly crotttons (No. 2442). 


(2536). MOUSSELINE OF KINGFISH A LA BRIERE (Mousseline de Kingfish & la Briére), 


Seale two or three fresh kingfish, weighing about two pounds; suppress the head and thin tail 
end, the fins and gills. Put into a sautoir two soupspoonfuls of chopped onions and shallots, add 
half a pound of clarified butter cooked to hazelnut (No. 567) and fry the onions and shallots 
lightly; put in the well-wiped fish and season with salt, nutmeg, a dash of cayenne, a pinch of 
thyme leaves and bay leaf; fry over a brisk fire until done. Remove the skin, pour the whole into 
a sieve laid over a large dish, so as to be able to collect all the liquid and butter, and let this as 
well as the fish get cold on ice. Take all the bones out of the fish and pound the meat, adding 
gradually the well-strained butter and liquid, also a few spoonfuls of good béchamel sauce (No. 
409) reduced with the fish stock. Press this forcemeat through a sieve and smooth it in a 
vessel, mixing in with it slowly a few spoonfuls of very thick jelly (No. 103); try a 
small part of this preparation in a small mold on ice, and if not quite firm add more 
dissolved jelly until perfectly thick. When cold on the ice incorporate into it slowly about 
one pint of very firmly whipped cream, drained and sugarless. Stir the preparation again 
for a few moments, then pour it into a high mold incrusted on ice, coated with jelly, and bestrew 
‘with chervil leaves; let the mousseline harden for a couple of hours and at the last moment dip 
the mold into hot water so as to easily unmold it on a rice foundation two inches high; fill the 
bottom of the dish with half-set jelly, surround the foundation with quartered hard-boiled eggs 
‘standing erect, and these with a string of chopped jelly or jelly crofitons. Serve at the same time 
a sauce-boat of mayonnaise (No. 606), finished with tarragon and chopped chervil. 


(2537). MOUSSELINE OF LOBSTER (Mousseline de Homard), 


Select a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) and incrust it in pounded ice; cut some crosswise slices 
‘of large green gherkins, of equal size and thickness, lift them up with the pointed end of a larding 
needle, dip into half-set jelly, and then arrange them symmetrically against the sides of the mold; 


fll 
i 


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Hf 


i we al 
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Si a ere 





Fie. 510. 


-coat this decoration lightly with jelly. Out up into quarter-inch dice the claw meat of four lobsters 
and enclose them in asmallsaucepan. Pound the tail meat with two or three spoonfuls of béchamel 
(No. 409), pass it through a sieve and return it to the mortar to pound once more, adding three or 
four gills of blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), a few spoonfuls of jelly (No. 103) and a few drops of 
tarragon vinegar; season highly and set the preparation in a saucepan to thicken lightly while 
stirring on ice; incorporate into this five or six spoonfuls of well-drained whipped cream. After 


COLD SERVICE. tenn 


this preparation is well smoothed add to it the dice pieces of claw meat and with the whole fill up 
the coated mold; put on ice for one hour. Just when ready to serve dip the mold in warm water 
and invert the contents on a dish having a small support fastened to the center; on top of this 
place a hatelet garnished with fine shrimps or crawfish of graduated sizes, and serve at the same 
time a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2538), MOUSSELINE OF PHEASANTS, PRINCESS (Mousseline de Faisans, Princesse), 


This cold entrée is dressed on a carved rice croustade slightly hollowed out on top to form an 
outspreading ledge. Incrust in chopped ice a plain pyramidical flat-top mold. Take the meat of 
two breasts of cooked pheasants and half a cooked foies-gras; with these make a preparation the 
same as for a chaudfroid of fillets of pheasants (No. 2456); before thickening it on ice put a quarter 
of this into a saucepan and incorporate in it two spoonfuls of black pounded truffles; thicken the 
two preparations separately on ice. Moisten the interior of the mold with a brush dipped in jelly, 
fill it toa third of its height with the white mixture, and when this is cold pour in a layer of the 


—SSs 














a2 S 














6 


Fre.-511. 





black one inch deep, and on this another of the white, of the same thickness as the first, then an- 
other one of black, the same as before, and finish filling with the white; cover with a buttered white 
paper and leave to cool for two hours. Lastly dip the mold in hot water and turn it over to un- 
mold on the croustade; surround the base with a row of sticky chopped jelly (No. 2526) and on this 
lay a chain of small, crimped paper cases, each one filled with a round of truffle. On top of the 
mousseline fasten a hatelet garnished with mushrooms of graduated sizes, and surround this with 
chopped jelly; lay around some cases the same as the lower ones, only somewhat smaller, also filled 
with truffles. 


(2539), MOUSSELINE OF PULLET (Mousseline de Poularde), 


Poach in butter four well-pared pullet fillets; when cold pound them with a third of their 
quantity of the very best butter; season and rub through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin 
iron vessel and beat it for five minutes with a spoon to have it 
smooth, then incorporate slowly three gills of blond chaudfroid sauce 
(No. 596); try a little of this preparation on ice to rectify if necessary, 
and when perfect thicken it on ice, stirring in a quarter as many 
truffles, red beef tongue and cooked mushrooms, the whole cut in 
three-sixteenths of an inch dice, also the volume of a pint of well- 
drained whipped cream. With this preparation fill an oval mold 
decorated with truffles and coated with a light coating of jelly, or 
else several quenelle molds, covered with half-set jelly, having used a brush for this purpose; then 
smooth the top nicely and keep the mold on pounded ice for one hour. At the last moment un- 
mold the mousseline on a cold dish and surround the base with pretty jelly crofitons (No. 2442). 





(9540), MOUSSELINE OF WOODCOCK (Mousseline de Bécasses). 


Simply dress this on a channeled rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish. Remove some 
rounds of cooked truffles with a cutter, and use them to decorate symmetrically the interior sides 


V72 THE EPICUREAN. 


and bottom of a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) imbedded in ice, dipping them one by eas in balfs 
set jelly to be able to fasten them on, then coat over the entire inside of the mold lightly with half- 
set jelly. Pound the breast meats of three cooked woodcock with an equal quantity of cooked foies- 
gras, half as much cooked and chopped-up truffles and a very little of the cooked intestines from the 
birds; season and pass the whole through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal ee and stir: 
























































into it gradually three gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), increased with a few spoonfuls of 
warmed jelly (No. 108); the chaudfroid sauce should be reduced with a game fumet (No. 397) pre- 
pared with the woodcock legs and bones; thicken the preparation properly by stirring it on ice and 
with it fill up the mold; then harden it on ice for one hour. When needed dip the mold in noe 
water, wipe dry and invert the mousseline on the rice foundation, surrounding it with a bed of 
chopped jelly. is. 


(2541), TENDERLOIN OF MUTTON A LA HENRY OLAY (Filets de Mouton & la Henry . 
Clay). ' 

Raise the tenderloins from two saddles of mutton, and the sirloins or meats from four racks;, 
remove the skin, pare and lard with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); season with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, fine herbs and shallots. Cover the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, carrots, 
onions and a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove; lay the fillets on top, 
moisten with stock (No. 194a) and Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, then bring to a boil and: 
set in the oven for one hour; when done lay them on a deep dish and strain the stock over; glaze 
and dress on a rice croustade, and garnish around with breasts of mutton in chaudfroid, prepared: 
as follows: Braise the breasts, set them under a weight to cool, pare by removing the skin and fat, 
and then cut the meat into small half-hearts; cover their surfaces with foies-gras taken from a. 
terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; when cold mask them with chaudfroid made with 
the fillet and breast stock, and some poivrade (No. 523) added, and when cold pare and trim with. 
fancy favors (No. 10). Dress them in a circle, one overlapping the other, around the rice socle, 
and outside of the breasts place chopped jelly surrounded by jelly croutons (No. 2442) cut very- 
regular and dressed symmetrically. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of printaniére mayon-. 
naise (No. 612). ; 


(2542) SMALL “PAINS” OF CAPON WITH TARRAGON (Petits Pains de Chapon & l'Estragon).. 


Select some timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 187), imbed them in chopped ice, and decorate the bottoms. 
and sides with cut-up gherkins and blanched tarragon leaves, being careful to dip these decorations. 
in half-set jelly when using. Take the value of two or three gills of capon purée, and mix with it 
a few spoonfuls of velouté sauce (No. 415); put this into a small saucepan and dissolve gradually 
with a gill of good aspiec jelly (No. 103) and a few spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Stir this prepa- 
ration on ice to thicken, and-use it to fill the empty molds. One hour later dip these timbales in 
warm water; unmold the timbales and dress them at once in a circle on a cold dish. Garnish the. 
center with chopped jelly and around with jelly crofitons. 


(2543). SMALL “PAINS” OF CHICKEN A L'ECARLATE (Petits Pains de Volaille & !Ecarlate), 


This entrée requires to be dressed on a wooden foundation fastened ona dish; cover it with. 
white paper, and decorate its thickness with a border in relief; in the center of this foundation 


place a wooden support also covered, it being as high asa six-sided timbale mold about the same- 


size as timbale No. 1, Fig. 1837. Pound the white meats of a large chicken with an equal quan- 
tity of foies-gras, both to be cooked; add two spoonfuls of velouté sauce (No. 415), season and. 


t 


COLD SERVICE. 7173 


strain through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal vessel, and mix in an equal quantity of 
liquid blond chaudfroid (No. 596), and four spoonfuls of cooked truffles cut in small dice. Incrust 
the molds on ice; coat with half-set jelly, and line the sides only with narrow strips of red beef 
tongue, cut the same height as the molds. Thicken the preparation on ice and with it fill the lined 

































































molds; leave toharden for one hour. When required for serving, dip the molds in hot water in order 
to unmold the ‘‘ pains,” and dress them on the foundation around the support, placing one on its 
summit; decorate all the tops with a large mushroom head channeled through the thickness and 
hollowed in the center so that it is capable of holding a small truffle ball. On the central ‘“ pain” 
fasten a small hatelet garnished with a truffle and cocks’-comb slightly larger than the rest. 


(2544), SMALL “PAINS” OF CHICKEN A LA FREYCINET (Petits Pains de Poulet a la 
Freycinet), 


Have a baking tin with a raised border an inch and a half high; range on it some timbale 
molds (No. 2, Fig. 187), and surround them with finely chopped ice; pour into the bottom of each 
mold some jelly to an eighth of an inch in thickness and on top set a round slice of truffle a quarter 
of an inch narrower than the diameter of the bottom mold; decorate the sides with fanciful cuts of 
truffles or egg-white dipped in half-set jelly; coat over the interior of the mold or else brush it 
with a layer of the jelly and fill it up with the following preparation: Pound half a pound of the 
white meat of a braised and cold chicken to a pulp, after removing the skin, fat and bones; add to 
it half a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) well reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) and a pint 
of jelly (No. 103); pass the whole through a tammy into a thin metal bowl and lay it on ice; incor- 
porate and mix well with it the same quantity of whipped cream, drained for two hours on a sieve. 
Fill the molds half full and place in the center a ball of foies-gras taken from a terrine with a 
round five-eighths of an inch vegetable spoon dipped in hot water; finish filling up with the prep- 
aration, smooth the tops and let get thoroughly cold. Unmold the timbales and dress them in a 
circle on a cut-out rice socle two inches high by eight inches in diameter; place in the center of the 
socle a sloping support, having it three inches high and five inches in circumference at the base 
and two inches in circumference on the top; on this top fasten a stearine cup, filling it with very 
small black and glazed truffles. 


(9545), “PAIN” OF GAME A LA BARTHOLDI (Pain de Gibier & la Bartholdi), 


Have made beforehand a round wooden socle nine inches and a half in diameter by two and a 
half inches in height. At half an inch from its top have a curve two inches high in the shape of 
an ogive, reducing the part that rests on the dish to the diameter of eight and a half inches; also 
hollow it out a quarter of an inch deep on top, leaving a three-quarter-inch border all around; 
exactly in the center bore a half-inch hole through the entire depth. Moisten the socle lightly, and 
cover it over with noodle paste (No. 142), or English paste (No. 134), rolled out very thin, and let 
dry in the air; then glaze it over with very light meat glaze (No. 402), and decorate by applying to 
the glaze fancifully cut pieces of either of the pastes used or a wreath of flowers. Make one or two 
preparations (the cut represents only one), one white with partridge meat, and the other brown with 


grouse meat. 


For the White Preparation.—Pound one pound of the white meat of some braised cold par- 
tridges, boned and free of fat; add to it half a pound of foies-gras, and continue to mash the two 


C74 THE EPICUREAN. 


together, adding one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with the braised stock, strained and 


skimmed, having added to it an ounce of well-dissolved gelatine; strain the whole through a fine 
sieve, and set it away to get cold in a metal vessel. Instead of gelatine half a pound of very clear 
jelly (No. 103) may be substituted. 

For the Brown Preparation.—Proceed exactly the same as for the white, but instead of the 


white partridge meat and velouté sauce use grouse or prairie chicken meat and espagnole sauce 
(No. 414), reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392); strain through a fine sieve, and lay it 


aside in a metal vessel. Fry two young and tender prairie hens in butter with chopped- 


up fresh mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and let them get cold. 
Bone and suppress the skin, pound the meat to a pulp and rub it through a sieve; mix in a few 
spoonfuls of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and add and mingle to the whole the same quantity 
of truffies, tongue, liver and pistachios, all cut up in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares. 
Line some small mousseline molds (No. 3, Fig. 138), with very thin slices of fat pork, and fill them 





Fig. 515. 


up with the above preparation; arrange them on a baking sheet, one beside the other, without 
allowing them to touch, and bake them in a slack oven; leave them to cool off under 4 weight; 
decorate No. 2 mousseline molds, either with truffles, egg-white, or pistachios; coat with a thi 
layer of jelly; pour a quarter-inch thick layer of jelly in the bottom of the mold: when cold place 
the contents of the No. 3 mousselin molds on it, and finish filling with jelly; keep in a cool place. 
Incrust in chopped ice a mold made in graduated tiers. The design as represented is plain, with- 
out any decoration; if decorated, then decorate the upper edge of the sides of each tier witt fang 
ful cuts of truffle and egg-white dipped in half-set jelly; coat over evenly the inside of the mold 
with jelly. Place the two preparations on ice, beat them up well and fill the bottom tier with the 
brown preparation; lay in the center some slices of truffle and let it get cold; then fill another tier 
with white preparation, using slices of foies-gras instead of truffles, and continue the same operation 
until the mold is all filled; then let it get quite cold, leaving it on the ice for several hours so as to 
harden the contents. Unmold the “« pain” on to the socle, ran through the center a wooden sup- 
port | which must be made to hold up the subject on its summit, and decorate each tier with jelly 
croutons cut into long triangles, having the pointed end cut off and dressed upright; the height of 
these crofitons for the lower tier dressed on the socle must be an inch and a half, then diminish 






ee ee ee a oe Se 


COLD SERVICE. runs 


the height one-eighth of an inch for each tier, so that those on the fifth tier are only one inch high;. 
decrease their thickness and width also. Stick on top of the support a stearine figure in imitation 
of the statue of Liberty. Push through a cornet between all the crotitons some finely chopped 
jelly, and decorate the bottom of the socle as high as the basin with more chopped jelly; or sur- 
round the base with the same mousseline-shaped timbales. 


(2546), “PAIN” OF GAME, DIANA (Pain de Gibier & la Diane). 


- This ‘‘ pain” is dressed on a socle, the frieze being upheld by the trunk of a tree having many 
branches, these to form a support; the branches are modeied over wire, the surface of the base is 
covered with foliage and the frieze decorated with leaves and flowers. On top of the socle place a 
surtout of carved rice of similar shape, to be ten inches long by seven inches wide, or one of tin 
covered with noodle paste (No. 142). Have three oval molds, the largest ten inches long, by seven 
inches wide and two inches high, the medium-sized one eight and five-eighths inches long, and 

































































Ldjidée 
i 





Fia. 516. 


three and a half inches high and five and a quarter inches wide; the smallest to be seven hb ty 
eighths inches long, four and five-eighths inches wide and three inches high. Benne ns ys 
these molds with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch thick. Make three different preperanes 
one for each mold; for the largest have a young hare “ pain ” preparation, made as ; eats te 
two pounds of young hare meat into large squares; fry in melted rete fat ih; x ee pike 
rooms, truffles and fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices; when the hare 1s cooke pee ete 
the fire and set away to cool, then pound it well, adding four egg-yolks, half a DOBne/pL Lote ere 


16 THE EPICUREAN. 
from a terrine and one pound of cream panada (No. 120). After all has been well pounded and 
passed through a sieve, add six ounces of unsmoked cooked beef tongue, half a pound of truffles 
and one pound of calves’ udder, all cut in three-eighths inch squares; mix thoroughly and fill the 
largest mold; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let bake*in a slack oven for three hours; 
cool under a weight, unmold and remove the fat part from the bottom and sides, pare the ‘‘ pain” 
neatly, smooth and set it in the ice-box. For the medium-sized mold prepare the following: Cut two 
pounds of prairie-hen meat in squares, fry on a brisk fire in grated fat pork and as soon as cooked 
remove, cool and pound well, adding the same quantity of grated fresh fat pork; pound all thor- 
oughly together, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pound eight ounces of panada and mix it 
slowly into the preparation, press it through a sieve and mingle into this forcemeat a quarter of a 
pound of truffles cut in quarter-inch squares and as much fat pork cutexactly the same. With this 
preparation fill the medium-sized mold, having lined it with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch 
thick; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let cook in a slow oven for two hours and a half, 
then cool under a weight. Unmold the ‘‘ pain,” pare and smooth it and leave it in the ice-box. 
For the smallest mold pound thoroughly one pound of roasted pheasant, partridge or quail meat 
from which all bones, fat, skin and sinews have been removed, with half a pound of foies-gras 
from a terrine; season, strain, return to a vessel and add a pint of cold half-glaze sauce (No. 413) © 
well reduced with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) and twelve egg-yolks. Fill the mold with this 
preparation, stand it in a flat saucepan containing boiling water, place it in the oven, and when 
poached, cool, unmold and set it in the ice-box. After cleaning the molds well apply the lozenges 
correctly, dipping each one in half-set cold jelly. Begin at the bottom of the mold with a lozenge 
of egg-white cut in half across its length, keeping the lozenges of truffles on the right and the 
lozenges of tongue on the left. The beauty of this decoration consists in applying and joining 
them nicely, putting them rather close on the bottom of the mold and a little further away toward 
the top to allow for the spread of the mold. Coat each mold with jelly (No. 103), having it aneighth 
of an inch thick at the bottom, and leave it to cool. The lozenges for the large mold are one and 
three-eighths inches long by three-quarters of aninch wide; for the medium size, one and a quarter 
‘inches long by one and one-sixteenth inches wide; and for the smallest, one and one-eighth inches long 
‘by five-eighths of an inch wide. Put the ‘‘ pains” into these decorated molds and finish filling with 
cold jelly that is not set; stand them in the ice-box for six hours, then unmold the largest carefully 
on the rice surtout, On the largest place the next size and the smallest on top; in the center of — 
this one place a pretty subject, and at each end of it fasten a garnished hatelet and two larger 
ones below on the lower ‘‘ pain.” Surround the base of the surtout with jelly crotitons (No. 2442). 


(2547), “PAIN” OF LIVER WITH SALPICON (Pain de Foie au Salpicon), 


Mince a pound and a quarter of raw calf’s liver; fry it quickly in melted fat pork with aromatic 
herbs, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, truffle and mushroom peelings and chopped blanched shallot; 
remove as soon as done and leave to cool, then mix in four ounces of foies-gras parings from a 
terrine. Pound and return it to the mortar and add slowly one pound and a half of chopped raw 
veal and fat pork, the same as a galantine; pound the whole well: together, press once more through 
a sieve and season properly. Put this preparation into a vessel and stir in a third as much truffles, 
cooked veal udder and cooked red beef tongue, all cut into small squares. Cover the bottom and 
sides of a large charlotte mold with thin slices of fat pork; put the preparation in the center and 
cover over with more pork; place the mold in a saucepan containing hot water to reach a third of 
its height; let this come to a boil, then remove to a slower fire or a slack oven. Cook the ‘‘ pain” 
for an hour anda quarter and leave to cool for four hours; unmold, take off the pork to smooth the 
surfaces neatly, then glaze and decorate with fanciful cuts of gherkin, red beef tongue and truffles 
dipped in half-set jelly. Dress on a bread crofiton covered with ravigote butter (No. 583) and dec- 
orate around with chopped jelly and crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2548), “PAIN” OF PARTRIDGES A LA MONTGOMERY (Pain de Perdreaux a la Montgomery). 


Cut three raw partridges in pieces as for a sautéd chicken, fry with chopped fat pork, truffles, 
mushrooms, fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices; when well done, put aside to cool, remove the 
meat and divide in half-inch squares, then pound and add nine egg-yolks, half a pound of foies- 
xras, and three-quarters of a pound of flour and milk panada (No. 121); when a smooth pulp is ob- 
tained press it through a sieve and mingle in six ounces of salted, unsmoked red beef tongue, nine 
ounces of truffles, and fifteen ounces of udder, all to be cut into three-sixteenths inch dice. Fill 
«plain oval dome-shaped mold six inches long by four inches wide with the preparation; cover with 





COLD SERVICE. v7 


fat pork, and then set it in a sautoir with a little water and cook in a slack oven for three hours: 
turn it out after it is thoroughly cold, remove the fat pork, smooth the surfaces and set it in a hangee 
mold decorated with truffles, coated with a light coat of white jelly (No. 103), and another one of 
white chaudfroid (No. 596); finish filling the mold with jelly,and when 
exceedingly cold invert it on a bread support two inches high covered 
with lobster butter (No. 580); surround with chopped jelly, and garnish 
around the support with jelly croaitons and cases of thrushes prepared 
as follows: Bone some thrushes, keeping one leg on each that must not 
be boned; stuff the birds with game forcemeat (No. 91), season with 
salt, pepper, mushrooms, parsley and truffles, all to be finely chopped. 
Then also cook some whole truffles, rounded to an inch in diameter, and when both of these are cold 
glaze the birds over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and decorate the leg with a favor frill (No. 
10); lay the thrushes in oval cases, and the truffles in small round ones; arrange all of them 
around the support intercalating the birds and truffles. 





Hie. 517. 


(2549), “PAIN” OF YOUNG RABBIT (Pain de Levraut), 


Suppress all the meats from a young rabbit, also the skin and sinews, and use the bones to 
make a game fumet (No. 397). Fry in butter the large fillets, the minion fillets and the leg meats; 
as soon as they are cooked take them out of the sautoir. When cold pound the leg meats finely, 
adding the fillets, and minion fillets then pound again with half as much cooked foies-gras, season 
and rub through a fine sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal basin, and beat it for a few moments 
with a spoon in order to have it smooth, and incorporate into it slowly three gills of brown 
chaudfroid (No. 594), some game glaze (No. 398), and melted gelatine. Try a little of this 
preparation on ice to judge its consistency, and if not correct thicken it at once by beating 
it for a few moments longer on the ice, while mixing in more melted gelatine add two ounces of 
fresh butter broken into small bits, and wher of a proper consistency stir in a few spoonfuls of cooked 
truffles cut in dice pieces, and an equal quantity of red beef tongue cut the same. Pour the whole 
into a plain cylinder mold coated over with a little half-set jelly applied with a brush, and imbed 
the mold on chopped ice; harden the contents for a couple of hours, then unmold it on a cold 
dish; surround with chopped jelly and crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2550), ROAST LARDED PARTRIDGES (Perdreaux Piqués et Rotis), 


Truss two partridges after singeing, drawing and cleaning them well; lard them and roast 
either on the spit or in the oven. Let get cold, and when ready to use glaze them over with a 
brush dipped in game glaze (No. 398), and dress, either whole or cut up, on a dish and surround 
with jelly. 


(9551). PORK LIVER PIE OR TERRINE (Paté ou Terrine de Foies de Porc), 


Terrine.—Take three pounds of the breast of fresh pork, chop it finely into a forcemeat; chop 
separately two pounds of pig’s liver after soaking it in cold water and straining through a sieve. 
Put the whole into a vessel large enough to have all thoroughly mixed, add one-third of an ounce 
of salt for each pound and one coffeespoonful of pepper for the same quantity, prepared red pepper 
(No. 168), nutmeg to taste, a pinch of chopped parsley, a bay leaf, a pinch of thyme, six eggs and 
three and a half ounces of flour; stir the whole thoroughly until a very smooth paste is obtained. 
Line the bottom of one or several earthen jars, fit to be put in the oven, with slices of fat pork, then 
fill them with the paste; cover with another slice, having notched the fibrous parts; place it in the 
oven and let bake slowly. A terrine weighing four to five pounds requires three to four hours to 
bake. When done drain off the fat and replace it with good melted leaf lard, cover with a board 
and place a two-pound weight on top. After it is cold cover with a light layer of lard, and serve 
either in the same jar, or else cut it with a spoon. 

Pie.—The above preparation can also be made into a pie by b 


directed in No. 2557. 


aking it in a mold, proceeding as 


(2552), ROAST PEACOCK ADORNED WITH ITS PLUMAGE (Paon Roti et Paré de son Plumage) 

Procure a young peacock with very brilliant plumage; cut off half of the rump with the tail 
feathers. attached to it and spread them into a fan, then dry; also remove the wings with their 
plumage and the head with all the beautiful neck feathers as far down as the breast, including the 


718 3 THE EPICUREAN. 


skin; stuff the neck with wadding and insert a stiff wire in the middle to hold it in its natural 
position. Pick the peacock, draw, singe and free it of feathers; truss for roasting (No. 179) and 
stuff with a dressing made with a pound of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs, the same 
quantity of chopped beef marrow, and season with spices (No.168), chopped shallot fried colorless 
in butter and raw liver chopped up finely. Cook in a moderate oven, basting over frequently 
with butter, and when cold dish it up on a carved rice socle; adorn it with its plumage; surround 
with chopped jelly and a border of jelly croitons (No. 2442) and serve separately a cold poivrade 


sauce (No. 620). 


(2553), PHEASANT STUFFED A LA PRINCE ORLOFF (Faisan Farci & la Prince Orloff), 

Open a fresh pheasant through the back; bone it, leaving on the pinions and drumsticks, then 
season the meats. Take all the meat from another fresh pheasant and chop it up finely, mixing in 
an equal quantity of chopped fresh fat pork; season this forceemeat and add to it a quarter 
of its quantity of cooked foies-gras cut in large dice and as much truffles. Use this preparation to 
fill the boned pheasant, bring the meats together and sew it up, giving it its original form; truss 
and brush over with butter, then wrap it in a fine cloth, tying it well, and cook it very slowly for 
an hour and a quarter in good stock (No. 194a). Drain off the pheasant, untie and wrap it 
again in the same cloth after washing it, then let get cold. One hour before serving unwrap the 
pheasant, separate the back from the breast, cutting it off, then divide this in. two lengthwise 
pieces; cut the two halves in transversal slices, reshape and put the breast back into its former 
place from whence it was taken. Cover the whole pheasant with a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 
596) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397) and afterward thickened on ice. Place the pheasant 
on ice till needed and then decorate the pinions with paper frills (No. 10); now dress it on a 
small oval foundation covered over with white paper and fastened on a long dish; surround it with 
a thick cord of chopped jelly pushed through a pocket, and decorate the edges of the dish with 
jelly crotitons (No. 2442) and two clusters of medium-sized stuffed truffles. 


(2554). CHICKEN PIE—TO BE OUT UP (Paté de Poulet pour Découper). 

Procure two oblong corrugated pie molds ten inches long, four inches high and four inches wide, 
buttered with cold butter; stand them on a sheet of buttered paper, and line with pie paste (No. 
144). Bone thoroughly four tender chickens of about two and a half pounds each; suppress the fat 
and thigh sinews, also the minion fillets; season with No. 2 pie spices (No. 168). Put into a vessel 
some ham, tongue, truffles and fat pork, all cut in three-eighths of an inch squares; season and 
baste with Madeira wine. Prepare a forcemeat with one pound of finely chopped pork free from 
sinews, and one pound of fresh fat pork; mix together and chop once more; season. Oover the 
bottom and sides of the paste with this forcemeat, and fill the pie in alternate layers with chicken 
forcemeat and the salpicon, finishing the whole with forcemeat; cover with thin slices of fat pork; on 
top place a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Cover with a flat of the same paste, fasten both 
together, clip off the surplus paste around the edge, form and pinch a erest, and cover the whole 
with another flat made of puff paste parings (No. 146); egg over and cook in a slack oven for two 
hours. Should the crust brown too quickly, lay over a double sheet of wetted paper, and when 
the pie is done remove and let cool partly; fill it up with consistent jelly made from the fragments 
of chicken, and after the pie is thoroughly cold cut it into slices, and dress in a straight row on a 
cold dish surrounded by chopped jelly and crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2555). DUCKLING PIE A LA ROUENNAISE (Paté de Canneton & la Rouennaise). 

Prepare two pounds of cold pie paste (No. 144), having it rather firm; let it rest for an hour 
and a half in a cool place. Cut off the pinions, legs and necks from two clean ducklings, bone 
them entirely, leave the fillets adhering to the skin, remove half the fillet through its thickness and 
lay on the skin that has no fillet, and detach the meat from the legs to suppress the sinews, then 
chop up finely; in with this mix a pound and three-quarters of boned turkey foreemeat (No. 65); 
pound both together for a few moments with four ounces of chopped truffles and four ounces of raw 
chopped ham, seasoning with No. 2 pie spices (No. 168). Place this forcemeat in a bowl and add to it 
a third of its volume of baked liver forcemeat (No. 64), passed through a sieve, also a few spoonfuls 
of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and half a pound of blanched fat pork cut in quarter-inch squares. Prick 
the skin of the boned ducklings with a larding needle and fill their insides with a part of the force- 
meat, placing the liver well seasoned in the center; reshape the duck to its original appearance, With 
the bones and parings prepare a succulent stock. Place on a small baking sheet covered with strong, 
well buttered paper a smooth oval hinged mold; line this mold with two-thirds of the paste and cover 
the bottom and sides with thin slices of fat pork; on this place a layer of the forcemeat and set. 





COLD SERVICE. | 779 


one of the stuffed ducklings on the bottom, then cover over with more forcemeat and another duck- 
_ ling on top, finishing with the remainder of the forcemeat, having it dome-shaped on the top, 
then cover with thin slices of fat pork and over this place a flat of the same paste; press it 
down on the base of the dome and against the projecting edges of paste to fasten the two together; 
cut away any surplus paste close to the edges and pinch it with a pair of pincers, or else decorate the 
dome with fanciful cuts of the same paste; cut a small hole exactly in the center, which is intended 
to act as a chimney for the steam to escape. Egg over the surface and set the pie in a moderate 
oven; as soon as it begins to brown cover over with paper and cook for an hour and a half. An 
hour after the pie has been removed from the oven pour in through the opening on top a few 
spoonfuls of duck fumet (No. 397) reduced to a half-glaze and mixed with a little Madeira wine 
and jelly; close the opening with a pad of paste. Half an hour later take off the mold and let the 
pie cool for twelve hours before serving. 


(2556). GAME PIE DRESSED A LA LESAGE (Paté de Gibier Dressé & la Lesage). 


Prepare six pounds of cold pie paste, the same being described in No. 144; after it has. 
well rested roll out three-quarters of it to three-eighths of an inch in thickness; raise the 
paste with the hands several times, leaving it rest between each; place it on a sheet of buttered 
paper, and when it attains the height of about six inches, is rounded and properly equalized, 
thicker on the bottom than on the top, then pinch on the outside a row toward the right, another 
toward the left, and wrap several strong sheets of buttered paper around and tie with several 
strings. Fill the bottom and sides with bards of fat pork, and on the bottom spread a layer of 
forcemeat made of three pounds of pork meat, one pound of young rabbit meat, four pounds of 
_ fat pork, six ounces of prepared No. 2 pie spices (No. 168), and ten egg-yolks. Having finely chopped 
and pounded all these ingredients together, spread a layer in the bottom of the pie, and over it 
place a boned pheasant with the inside meats larded with fat pork and ham, and seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, chives and chopped bay leaf, and filled with some of this 
same forcemeat. Bone twelve woodcock and prepare them the same as the pheasant. Cut into. 
three-sixteenth inch squares some carrots and onions; fry the onions first in butter, add the carrots 
and the woodcock intestines; moisten with a little broth and Madeira wine, and as soon as done: 
(that is, when the moisture is thoroughly reduced) pound all finely and press through a sieve; let 
stand till cold, then mix into it some of the above forcemeat, adding eight ounces of cooked lean 
ham cut in one-eighth inch squares, and four ounces of chopped truffle peelings. Fill the boned 
woodeock, and in the center of each lay a small peeled truffle. Place eight of these birds around 
the pheasant, cover with more of the forcemeat, and in the center set the four remaining ones, 
with whole truffles laid around, also eight partridge fillets larded with lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52), and 
seasoned; cover with more of the forcemeat to form a dome, and on this lay thin slices of fat pork 
and a little thyme and bay leaf on top. Wet the edges of the pie, and lay over a cover of the 
rolled-out paste; fasten both together, cut the crust straight, equalize it and pinch it all around; 
make a chimney on the top, place several rows of noodle paste (No. 142) leaves on, and in the 
center arrange a noodle paste artichoke madeas follows: Take a flat of paste about one-sixteenth of 
an inch thick, fold it in two three times, then roll it in a ball an inch and a quarter across, make 
two cross-shape incisions half an inch deep on the centre of the ball so as to divide it in eight parts 
partly open to represent an antichoke; egg over several times and bake in a moderate oven for 
three or four hours; leave it to cool partly, then fill the pie either with game fumet (No. 397) 
mixed with jelly or with chaudfroid (No. 594) made with essence of game (No. 397) or else with 
fresh butter.and lard mixed, half and half. Filling it in this way the pie will keep much longer. 
It will take nearly twenty-four hours to thoroughly cool off a pie of this size. 


(2557). GOOSE PIE A LA ADOLPHE HARDY—FILLETS (Paté de Filets d’Oie & la Adolphe Hardy), 


The Crust for the Pie.—Make apie paste with three pounds of flour and one pound of butter, 
as described in pie paste No. 144; keep it in a cool place to rest for two hours. Have a round, 
plain, bottomless mold six and a half inches in diameter by six inches in height; line it with some 
strong buttered paper. Roll out three-quarters of the paste to a round, eighteen inchesin diameter 
and half an inch in thickness; dredge it with flour; fold it in two. and bring the two ends toward 
the center in the shape of a pocket; equalize the thickness of the paste by using the rolling pin. 
Line the unbuttered mold with it, pressing it against the sides, and having it a little thicker 
toward the bottom; leave for two hours on ice, unmold and pinch it all around, beginning at the 
bottom and inclining the pinching toward the left, and the second row toward the right; surround 
the pie by another mold, a quarter of an inch wider and a quarter of an inch higher than the last. 


y 


780 THE EPICURBAN. 


one: fill the bottom and sides of the pie with sheets of buttered paper, and fill it either with rice 
or very dry flour; cover over with a round of paper, wet the upper edges and over the top lay a flat 
of the same paste; fasten the two together and cut away the paste from the border, three-quarters 
of an inch higher than the mold; pinch it all around and orf top; cut a hole in the center, and 
insert therein a cardboard tube, called a chimney. Decorate the cover or dome with leaves or flowers 
made of thin noodle paste (No. 142), brush with egg twice, and leave for one hour in the ice- 
box; form a small artichoke (No. 2556) of exceedingly thin noodle paste; egg it over twice and bake 
it ina small noodle-paste ring. Bake the pie crust or timbale in a moderate oven for one hour, 
having it assume a beautiful color; as soon as done cut off the cover at the base of the dome by 
slipping a small thin knife between the two pastes; remove the cover, empty the inside rice and 
paper, and glaze the interior with a brush dipped in melted meat glaze. 

Terrine of Goose Fillets.—Have half a pound of the kernel or bottom round of veal, remoye 
the sinews, chop and pound it up finely. Chop separately a pound of fresh fat pork, mix the two 
together, season with pie spices (No. 168), and pound the whole, incorporating in slowly one gill 
of stock (No. 194a). Lard some goose fillets with medium lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides of a No. 3 terrine (about two quarts) with 
thin slices of fat pork, masking over with a layer of the above forcemeat; lay in the fillets more 
foreemeat and some small, whole, peeled truffles, having alternate layers, and finishing with force- 
meat well rounded on top; cover with a bard of fat pork, then the lid, and cook for about an hour 
and a half in a slack oven; let get cold under a light pressure, leaving it on for twenty-four hours; 
unmold the terrine. suppress all the fat, and lay the contents inside the timbale or pie crust. 
Cook half a pound of leaf lard, half a pound of butter and the fat suppressed from the terrine; 
when clarified pass it through a strainer, leave to cool without having it set, then pour it into the 
pie; lay on the cover and finish filling with more of the fat. Pull out the cardboard chimney, range 
the paste artichoke on top, and let the pie get thoroughly cold in the ice-box for twelve hours. 


(2558), HAM PIE (Paté de Jambon), 


Select a fresh, smoked ham, detach the kernel and under kernel; free these meats from their 
hard parts and cut them into inch and a half squares: if the meat be very salty it will require un- 
salting either in water or milk for a few hours before cutting up; lard each piece with a bit of 
truffle, passing it through from one side to the other. Melt half a pound of lard and when hot add 
to it the squares of ham and fry for a few moments only. Prepare a chopped forcemeat (No. 65); 
mix in four ounces of chopped truffle parings, pound the whole and add half a pound of lean and 
finely chopped cooked ham, and half a pound of fat pork cut in small three-sixteenths inch squares; 
‘season with red and white pepper, nutmeg and a little salt. Line a cold pie mold with short paste 
(No. 135), cover the bottom and sides of this with a layer of the prepared hash and fill the center, 
alternating the squares of ham with another layer of the hash; finish by giving it a dome form 
on top and cover with bards of fat pork; moisten the inside of the crest with a brush, then add a 
layer of paste: form this into a pretty crest, pinch the top and sides, egg over twice and range a 
puff paste (No. 146) cover over the whole, having it only a quarter of an inch thick; egg this twice 
also, score the entire surface and form a chimney in the center of the paste. Bake for three hours 
to three hours and a half. Should the pie brown too quickly cover over with strong, wetted 
paper. Two hours after removing it from the oven pour sufficient good jelly (No. 103) through 
the chimney to fill it well. 


(2559), HARE PIE IN A DISH (Paté de Liévre dans un Plat), 


Remove the meats from two young hares, keep the tenderloins and minion fillets apart and 
pare the remainder, suppressing all the skin and sinews; cut the meats into pieces and range them 
in a sautoir with half a pound of grated fat pork, the liver, the lights, and a tablespoonful of finely 
chopped onions; toss the whole over a brisk fire without letting it attain color, then take off to cool; 
chop and pound with three-quarters of a pound of grated fresh fat pork and four ounces of fresh pork 
tenderloins. Pare the reserved tenderloins and minion fillets, cut them in half-inch squares and 
add to them half a pound of peeled and cut-up truffles; season with salt and pepper and throw over 
a gill of Madeira wine and as much brandy. Two hours later put in the cooked meats. Line a 
deep pie dish, fit to go in the oven, with thin slices of fat pork, pour in the preparation and coyer 
with a slice of the same pork, thyme and bay leaf, then lay over a foundation paste (No. 185) cover, 
egg it twice and bake in a moderate oven; when done allow to cool, remove both cover and pork, 
clean the dish, place on a folded napkin, then decorate the edges of the pie dish with a border of 
jelly croftons and the center with chopped jelly. 





COLD SERVICE. 78) 


(2560). HARE PIE WITHOUT A MOLD (Paté de Lidvre Sans Moule), 


Cut some large fillets from the back of a hare, divide them into good-sized square lardons. 
(No. 1, Fig 52) and lay them in a vessel with as much fat pork cut exactly the same size and 
shape and a few raw truffles cut likewise; season highly and pout over a few spoonfuls of Madeira 
wine or brandy. Cut off the meats from the legs and shoulders, lay them in a frying pan with 
melted fat pork and an equal quantity of cut-up calf’s liver; season and fry over a brisk fire; as 
soon as the meats are brown remove to cool; pound and rub this through a sieve, then add this 
forcemeat to as much chopped fresh pork, raw, pounded and seasoned highly and mixed with 
cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Roll out on a floured table a flat of cold pie paste (No. 144) twenty 
inches long by fifteen wide; spread it on a baking sheet and cover the center with a layer of the: 
prepared forcemeat, giving it an oblong shape; then alternate the garnishing and the forcemeat, the. 
last layer being forcemeat, and cover this with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten the edges of the 
paste, fold over the flaps on the sides so as to enclose the contents, roll out the ends, moisten the 
top and bring these ends over on the center, wet again and cover with a three-sixteenths of an inch 
. oval flat of puff paste (No. 146), sufficiently large to cover the pie; on this flat make small openings 
to act as chimneys; put in pasteboard cylinders to uphold the paste. Egg over the paste and score 
it with the tip of a small knife. Place the pie in a moderate oven to bake, covering the top with 
sheets of buttered paper, and let cook fortwo hours. A quarter of an hour after taking it from 
the oven pour into the holes afew spoonfuls of game fumet (No. 397) mixed with a little Madeira 
wine and melted jelly (No. 108), then set it aside to cool for twelve hours before serving. This. 
same method may be employed for the preparation of chicken, game or fish pies. 


(2561), LAMB PIE—LOIN (Paté de Longe d’Agneau). 


Bone two loins and two shoulders of spring lamb; cut the loin meats into squares, lard them with 
larding pork and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and spices. Chop up the shoulder meats free 
of all sinews and fat and add to it the same weight of fat pork, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and spice, then pound the whole in a mortar, mixing in a little Madeira wine. Clean well and but- 
ter a pie mold, line it with ordinary pie paste (No. 144) and cover the bottom and sides with thin 
slices of fat pork; mask these with a layer of the forcemeat and place some slices of cooked ham on 
the bottom, then a layer of the forcemeat and the larded squares over, finishing with more force- 
meat, having the mold quite full and rounded on the top; cover with bards of fat pork and in the: 
center place a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Cover the pie with a flat of paste, having a raised 
edge on the border, pinch it all around and decorate the top with imitation leaves cut from puff 
or noodle paste and a paste artichoke (No. 2056) in the center. Egg the surfaces and cook in 
a medium oven, then fill up with jelly when the pie is thoroughly cold. 


(2562), GOOSE LIVER PIE (Paté de Foies-Gras), 
This cold pie, as shown in Fig. 518, is intended for very large suppers. Make a preparatiom 
che same as terrine of foies-gras, cook it in a long square-shaped tin mold and let get cold under a 
weight; keep it for five or six hours on ice. Butter a tastefully decorated cold pie mold, lay it on a 





Fie. 518. 


baking sheet covered with strong buttered paper, and line it with foundation paste (No. 135) made 
with egg-yolks; cover the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill it up with common flour, 
then cover with another buttered paper, and close the opening on top with a flat of the same paste, 


482 THE EPICUREAN. 


‘ 


fastening the two edges together; cut the top straight and pinch it prettily, then egg it over. 
Cook this paste for one hour and a quarter in a slack oven, so that it acquires a fine color, and as 
soon as it is removed open it by cutting the cover on a level with the edges and lift it off and empty 
out the contents; dry the inside for afew moments at a warm heater. When the crust is thoroughly 
cold unfasten the hinges of the mold so as to remove it, then glaze over the inside with a brush; 
cover the bottom with a layer of chopped jelly, and on this dress the terrine preparation cut in 
slices, having them in long squares of equal size and thickness; put the poorest ones at the bottom, 
and when this garnishing has reached nearly to the top finish filling with the prettiest slices, dress- 
ing them in a compact circle, and filling the inside of this with fine chopped jelly. Fasten the pie 
on a cold dish, surround the base with crotitons of jelly (No. 2442), and on top of the chopped jelly 
lay a fine truffle, peeled and cooked in wine. 


(2563). GOOSE LIVER PIE, CUT UP (Paté de Foies-Gras Découpé). 


This entrée is dressed on a crescent-shaped support, slightly circular, and made of tin; cover 
it with noodle (No. 142) or cooked paste (No. 131); this support should not be fastened on the center 
of the dish; being ofa half-circular form it should stand at one side on the edge of the hollow center 
so that the garnishing can be dressed inside the crescent. Prepare a chopped forcemeat for game 
pie (No. 67); season it highly and mix with it an equal quantity of baking liver forcemeat (No. 86), | 
pounded and passed through asieve. Cut into large fillets one good raw foies-gras, set them in a 
bowl with raw, peeled and quartered truffles; season and pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine 
or brandy. Butter a large cradle mold, line it with thin foundation paste (No. 135), and fill the 
bottom and around with the prepared forcemeat; on top of this range the foies-gras, fillets and 
truffles; cover over with more of the forcemeat, having it slightly rounded on the top, and set over 
this a flat of the same paste, fastening it well on the outer edges. Make a small opening in the 
center of the cover, egg it over, then lay this pie on a baking sheet and push it into a moderate 
oven to cook for one hour and a quarter, being careful to cover the paste with a buttered paper as 
fast as it browns. After removing it from the fire, pour into the opening a few spoonfuls of jelly 
(No. 103), mixed with a little melted glaze (No. 402) and Madeira. wine. Before cutting the pie 
into slices it must be unmolded and kept for twenty-four hours in a cool place, so that the paste is 
slightly softened, otherwise it wili be likely to crumble when cutting. Have the slices all of equal 
thickness, and dress them neatly in a half circle on the support. In the empty space it has 
formed range a tasteful cluster of round and peeled truffles cooked in wine and glazed over; sur- 
- round these truffles and the pie with a thick piping of chopped jelly forced through a cornet. 


(2564), COLD STRASBURG LIVER PIE (Paté de Foies-Gras de Strasbourg), 


Line a pie mold the same as No. 2557. Prepare a forcemeat with half a pound of very zresh 
Jean pork, and half a pound of exceedingly white and fresh lean veal, free of all sinews and fat, 





Fig. 519. 


and both chopped finely and separately; chop up the same weight of fat pork, and a half pound of 
liver; pound and pass through a sieve; pound also half a pound of cooked lean ham with some 





COLD SERVICE. | 783 


truffle peelings; rub this also through a sieve, and mix the whole together, seasoning with foies- 
gras spices (No. 168). Cover the bottom and sides of the pie with a thick layer of this forcemeat, 
place a fine well-seasoned goose liver in the center, then some peeled truffles, and cover with more 
forcemeat, rounding it well on top; finish the pie the same as No. 2557, baking it in a slack oven 
for three hours or more, according to its size; when cold fill it with butter and lard mixed together. 


(2565). QUAIL PIE (Paté de Cailles), 


Prepare a forcemeat as described in No. 67, and press through a sieve; mix into it a quarter 
of a pound of plain foies-gras cut in quarter-inch squares; have twelve small peeled truffles. Bone 
twelve quails, leaving them whole; season and fill with the above forcemeat, and in the center lay 
one of the truffles; enclose the contents well. Butter a low pie mold, line it with foundation paste 
(No. 135), and cover the sides and bottom with thin slices of fat pork; over this set a layer of the 
forcemeat, and then a bed of the quails on the bottom; on top of these place more forcemeat con- 
taining a salpicon of fat pork and red beef tongue, mixed with an equal quantity of the forcemeat, 
then another bed of the quails, and finish with forcemeat raised to a dome. Cover with a thin 
bard of fat pork, some bay leaves, and a flat of the same paste; smooth the summit; pinch all 
around and on top, and decorate the dome with noodle paste leaves; egg over twice, and bake 
the pie for two hours and a half; cool partly and then fill with jelly (No. 103) made of quail fumet 
(No. 397) and Madeira wine. 


(2566), SALMON PIE (Paté de Saumon), 


Cut four pounds of fresh salmon meat into large fillets; season them with salt and pepper, and 
put them in a vessel with two or three raw truffles also cut in fillets; pour over a little Madeira wine 
and leave to macerate for one hour. With some raw pike or gurnet, the salmon parings, panada, 
butter or veal udder and egg-yolks prepare a delicate forcemeat (No. 90), and when strained place 
it in a vessel to beat smooth and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), 
and the fish marinade. Butter an oblong metal pie mold selected proportionately to the quantity 
of fish and forcemeat, lay it on a baking sheet covered with paper and line it with cold pie paste 
(No. 144). Mask the bottom and sides of this paste with a layer of the forcemeat andin the hollow 
center dress the fillets of salmon and truffles, alternated by layers of forcemeat; the mold should be 
full so that when cooked there remains little or no empty space (the top layer must be of the force- 
meat). Wet the edges of the paste and cover over with a flat of the same, fastening it on the 
edges; then cut away the paste on a level with the mold and pinch it all around. Cover the top 
surface above the border with a fake cover—meaning a simple layer of puff paste (No. 146) cut 
the same shape as the top of the pie—and in the center of this make a small opening; egg over 
and decorate the top with designs made with the tip of a small knife, and cook for an hour and a 
half in a moderate oven, being careful to cover the paste with paper as soon as it becomes dry. A 
quarter of an hour after the pie has been removed from the oven pour into the hole on top a few 
spoonfuls of good jelly (No. 103) mixed with fish essence (No. 395) and reduced to ahalf-glaze, also 
a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine. Let it get cold for ten hours. At the last moment cut the pie 
into slices, and dress these, one overlapping the other on a long dish, and surround with chopped 
jelly and jelly crofitons. 


(2567), SNIPE PIE (Paté de Bécassines), 

Peel and cook some truffles in a little Madeira wine, cut them in four and season; singe and bone 

ten snipe, season them, and with their intestines, a few good chicken livers, some fragments of ham 
and aromatic herbs, prepare a baking forcemeat (No. 64). Have a chopped game forcemeat (No. 
67), pound and mix with it the baking forcemeat in equal quantity, a bit of garlic, and the truffle 
parings; force the whole through a sieve. With some cold pie paste (No. 144) line a low-hinged bot- 
tomless mold, place it on a baking sheet over buttered paper, and cover the bottom and sides with 
the prepared forcemeat; in the hollow center dress the snipe, alternated with more of the chopped 
forcemeat and the quartered truffles; pile up the mold, cover with thin bards of fat pork, then with 
a layer of the same paste, fastening it on the edge of the under paste; cut it away evenly and 
pinch the edges; make a small hole in the top of the dome and decorate the latter with a few 
imitation noodle paste leaves (No. 142), then egg over both top and border. Cook the pie for an 
hour and a half to two hours in a moderate oven; after it has been removed pour into the holeon 


784 THE EPICUREHAN. 


top some game fumet (No. 397) and finish it the same as a duckling pie (No. 2555). Let it be 
remembered that if all game pies, such as partridge, pheasant, reedbird, etc., have a slight bit of 
garlic mixedin with the foreemeat it will add greatly to the aroma, that is if it be not too pre- 
dominant. : 


(9562), VEAL AND HAM PIE (Paté de Veau et de Jambon), 


Butter a large pie mold, line it with pie paste (No. 144), and lay it ona buttered paper, and 
this on a tart plate; garnish the insides with thin slices of fat pork. Fill the bottom and sides with 
forcemeat made with two pounds of fresh pork and veal, half of each, and two pounds of fat pork; 
season with salt, pepper and fine herbs; on this foreemeat lay slices of cooked lean ham, and over 
a layer of forcemeat; on this a layer of thick slices of kernel of veal larded with fat pork (No. 2, 
Fig. 53), and seasoned highly; put in more forcemeat with finely chopped lean ham; place slices 
of fat pork over, and a bit of thyme and bay leaf; cover with a flat of the same paste, forming a 
crest, pinch the edges and egg over twice; on top lay a cover of puff paste (No. 146); make a hole in 
the center to act as a chimney. Egg over twice; bake in a moderate oven for two hours and a 
half. To be well assured of its being done thrust a trussing needle through, and if it penetrates 
easily and comes out hot and dry, then the pie is sufficiently cooked; when cold fill with jelly. 


(2569), WOODCOCK PIE (PAté de Bécasses). 


Bone six woodeocks, remove the pouches and gizzards, and fry the intestines by mixing in 
with them two pounds of game forcemeat (No. 67); pound and pass them through a sieve. Fry the 
fragments of the birds in butter with a small mirepoix of onions, carrots, thyme, bay leafand celery 
root, allcut in small dice. Bone twelve larks, season and fill them with the boned turkey forcemeat 
mixed with their intestines previously fried in butter; press through a sieve, and season with fine 
spices (No. 168) and brandy. Line a pie mold with pie paste (No. 144); cover the bottom and sides 
with thin slices of fat pork, and at the bottom lay three of the woodcocks and six of the larks; then 
another bed of the forcemeat, the three other woodcocks and the six other larks; finish with more 
forcemeat and a bard of fat pork; wet the inside edge, cover with a flat of paste, and fasten it 
down; smooth the top nicely, pinch it all around and on the summit, and bake in a moderate oven}. 
when cold fill the pie with partly cold jelly (No. 103) prepared with game fumet (No. 397). 


(2570). PIG’S HEAD (Téte ou Hure de Porc), 


Have a well scalded and cleaned pig’s head, singe and bone without destroying the skin, begin- 
ning from underneath; fill it with layers of fine pork forcemeat (No. 68), placing on each one some 
lardons of fat pork (No. 1, Fig. 52), pistachios, truffles and quenelle foreemeat (No. 89), into which 
chopped-up ham has been mixed, and then rolled into the same sized pieces as the lardons. When 
the head is filled sew it up and reshape it as before, then wrap it in a cloth and cook in a stock (No. 
194a) for four hours; unwrap and return it to the cloth to give it the shape of the head; unwrap 
once more, pare well, glaze over with meat glaze (No. 402), and dress on. a low socle; put in glass 
eyes and place natural fangs in the mouth; decorate the head with tongue, hard-boiled egg-white 
and pistachios; surround with chopped jelly and a border of crofitons (No. 2442). | 


(2571), LARDED PULLET WITH JELLY (Poularde Piquée & la Gelée), 


Break the breastbone of a not too fat pullet; fill in the breast and stomach with a large sal- 
picon made of cooked veal udder, truffles and cocked foies-gras, mixed with a little fine galantine 





Fie. 520. 


forcemeat (No. 65). Cut the legs from the pullet, truss, and steep the breast for two minutes in 
boiling water to stiffen the meats and facilitate the larding with lardons (No. 8, Fig. 52). Cook 





COLD SERVICE. "85 


the pullet in a little stock (No. 194a), basting over frequently; finally glaze it at the oven door. Whem 
cold untruss, detach the legs and cut each of them in two, then cut both breasts in slices and 
return them to their former place. Lay the pullet on a wooden foundation covered with white: 
paper and fastened ona dish; rearrange the two pieces of each leg, thrusting a small hatelet 
through, in their original places, only in a contrary direction; on each pinion seta pretty favor frill 
(No. 10). Surround the pullet with a thick piping of chopped jelly forced through a cornet and the 
bottom of the dish with a row of round peeled truffles all of the sa me size, then cook in wine and 
glaze over with a brush. A mayonnaise with fine herb sauce (No. 612) can always accompany. 
this cold piece. 


(2572), PYRAMID OF CRUSTACEANS A LA ROCHELAISE AND PYRAMID OF ORAWFISH 
(Buisson de Crustacés & la Rochelaise et Buisson d’Ecrevisses), 

To be able to dress this entrée correctly it will be found necessary to fasten a wooden founda- 
tion on a dish, having it two inches narrower than the basin of the dish itself; cover it with 
white paper and in the center attach a wooden support also to be covered with paper; this latter 
must be in the shape of a pyramid, its base measuring four and a half inches, its top two inches and 





Fig. 521. 


its height four inches; cover its surface with a layer of butter. This pyramid or buisson is to be 
composed simply of large slices of lobster tails and of red shrimps, after suppressing their beards. 
The shrimps are stuck into the butter on the pyramid in regular circles, but having each row lay 
in a contrary direction; the slices of lobster are also laid in close circles just on top of the rows of 
shrimps. As soon as all are dressed cover both shrimps and lobster with half-set jelly applied 
with a brush. In order to insure its safety it is advisable to push a thick string of sticky jelly 
(No. 2526) through a cornet, exactly underneath the circle of lobster Slices, so as to give them a 
good support. The hollow formed by the upper row of shrimps can be filled in with chopped jelly 
or parsley leaves, or else with a crimped paper case filled with a round truffle. Surround the bot- 
tom of the dish with a chain of pretty jelly crofitons (No. 2442) cut into oblongs, having one over- 
lap the other. Keep the buisson in a cold room and serve it with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce 
(No. 606). 

Pyramid of Crawfish.—Crawfish intended for this dish should be chosen as large as possible 
and cooked in a white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), then left to cool in the stock. When cold break 
off the smalllegs. Generally a buisson of shellfish is dressed on a tin step shelf made with pro- 
jecting ledges, each one furnished with hooks on which the crawfish can be hung; these ledges are 
movable and are placed at any desired distance from each other, accoi:ding to the length of the 
fish, but there must be no openings left between. The pyramid ought first to be fastened on to the 
center of a large dish and the empty space ‘filled in with parsley leaves or water cress; surround the 
base with a bush of green, then fasten on the crawfish by the tails, beginning at the lower ledge. 
Between the edge of. the dish and the pyramid dress the remainder of the crawfish, laying them 
down flat with the heads turned outward and the claws hanging over. This pyramid after being 
dressed should be laid on a large tray; have this placed in the center of the table. The green and 
the pronounced red of the crawfish form a pleasant contrast for the eye to rest upon. 


(2573), SADDLE OF VENISON A LA HARDER (Gelle de Chevreuil & la Harder), 


Roast to a fine color a medium-sized saddle of venison, after having marinated it for 
two days, and then larded it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); glaze and let stand till cold, then 


786 THE EPICUREAN. 


raise up the sirloin part and cut it in pretty slices, either bias or lengthwise. Add to some Madeira 
poivrade sauce (No. 620) the same quantity of jelly; reduce, despumate and pass it through a 
tammy; put it away on ice to cool, stirring it incessantly in the meantime until very nearly cold, 
then dip each slice into this chaudfroid and restore them to their respective places, reshaping the 
saddle as originally, and entirely cover over with the chaudfroid; then dress on along dish. Place 
around on a bed of jelly some artichoke bottoms, having some garnished with small carrot balls, 
others with turnips, others with cauliflower, others with string beans cut lozenge-shape, and others 
with English green peas; all of these vegetables to be cooked separately, cooled, well seasoned 
and mixed with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). At the ends place two fine cauliflowers 
boiled in salted water and butter, left to cool in their liquid, then drained properly and laid in a 
vessel to have a seasoning poured over of oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper; baste several 
times with this seasoning, then drain and cover with jellied mayonnaise. Around the whole lay 
a pretty border of evenly cut jelly crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2574), COLD SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES (Salmis Froid de Perdreaux), 


Roast two partridges, cut them up, being careful to have all the pieces nicely pared, and to 
suppress the skin, leaving on as little bone as possible; range these when prepared ona small baking 
sheet and keep them in a cool place; have also a round serving dish laid aside on the ice. Prepare 
a salmis sauce (No. 536) with the parings and bones; strain it into a small saucepan to cool, while 
stirring occasionally, then incorporate into it slowly two spoonfuls of Madeira wine and several 
more of good cold jelly (No. 108); beat this on ice to thicken as a chaudfroid sauce. Dip each piece 
of game singly into this sauce to envelop thoroughly; drain and dress in a pyramid form in the 
center of a cold dish, reserving the choicest pieces for the tep; leave the entrée on ice for another 
quarter of an hour. Garnish the wings and legs with paper frills (No. 10), surround the base of the 
pyramid with chopped jelly or croaitons of jelly (No. 2442), and small glazed truffles laid in cases. 


(2575), COLD SALMIS OF QUAILS A LA BALZAC (Salmis Froid de Cailles & la Balzac, — 
Roast eight quails; remove the breasts and break up the legs and bones. Fry some shallots in 
‘butter, moisten with white wine and half-glaze sauce (No. 418); put in the broken-up 
carcasses and let simmer for twenty minutes, then strain through a sieve, and add two 


gelatine leaves, so as to thicken to a good consistency. Decorate some pigeon ballotine molds, the — 


same as ballotines a la Madison (No. 2427), with fanciful cuts of egg-white and tongue; coat with 
jelly and lay the breasts in the center; finish filling with the cooled-off jelly; unmold the ballotines, 


range them in a circle on a bread socle covered with green butter (No. 583), and fill the center with , 


chopped jelly, and around with crotitons (No. 2442). 


(2576), SALMON DARNE, DECORATED (Darne de Saumon Historiée), 


Cut a darne or thick five-inch slice from the middle of a large salmon after it has been scaled, 
emptied and cleaned. Lay it straight on the grate of a fish-kettle, salt it over liberally and let it 
macerate for half an hour. Boil in court-bouillon (No. 88). (It should remain at the boiling point 
until cooked.) Leaving it in the fish-kettle until thoroughly cold, drain off the darne, then remove 


the skin, wipe the fish, and cover the surfaces with a thin layer of Montpellier butter (No. 582), 
























































Fig. 522. 


softened to a proper degree. Slide the darne at once on to a wooden dish foundation covered over 
with white paper; smooth the butter well, and set it aside in a cool place to harden. Fill the 
hollow in the center of the darne with a variegated vegetable salad; decorate the top with strips 
of green butter alternated with mayonnaise, and -decorate the sides with a fine relief wreath 
made of green and white butter, and ornamented with fanciful bits of gherkin, lobster and: 





ie _— se ee 


COLD SERVICE. 7837 


cooked truffles. Surround the base of the fish with quartered hard-boiled eggs standing upright 
(No. 2513), alternated with small clusters of chopped jelly or cooked green peas. Serve witha 
sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2577), SALMON SLICED AND DECORATED (Tranches de Saumon Historiées), 


Take two two-inch slices from the middle of a large salmon; after cleaning them nicely lay them 
in salt for one hour; place them on the grate of a fish-kettle and cover profusely with cold water, 
adding to it a large sprig of parsley and a gill of vinegar; set the kettle on the fire, skim the 
liquid and.at the first boil withdraw it to one side so as to have it quiver only for forty to forty-five 
minutes; let cool in the stock, then remove the fish with the grate and let drain for half an hour. 





Fig. 523. 


Trim the slices, lift off the skin, wipe neatly, lay them on a baking sheet and cover the sides with 
a layer of Montpellier butter (No. 582); smooth it nicely and set aside on ice to cool. Decorate the 
sides and tops of these slices of fish with fanciful cuts of truffles, gherkins and hard-boiled egg- 
whites, being careful to dip each piece into half-set jelly before applying it. Dress the two slices 
on a thin wooden double support covered with white paper, and in the center of the dish on both 
sides arrange a cluster of macédoine salad (No. 2650) dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); on the 
salad lay a large cooked crawfish and surround the slices with halved hard-boiled eggs, having the 
yolks hidden under a round piece of truffle. On both ends of the support fasten two tasteful 
hatelets of red prawns, slanting them outward. Serve with the fish a separate mayonnaise sauce 
(No. 606). : 


(2578), SLIOH OF SALMON WITH JELLY (Troncon de Saumon & la Gelée), 


Cut from the middle of a large clean salmon a slice ten inches long; salt it over well and lay it 
on the grate of a fish-kettle on the belly side; tie it down to the grate with a string to keep it in 
place, and cover it with cold white wine court-bouillon (No. 389); heat the liquid while 
skimming, and at the first boil withdraw it to one side so as to keep it quivering for one 
hour, then allow it to get partly cold in its own stock. Remove the fish with the grate and let 





Fig. 524. 


it become thoroughly cold, then leave it to drain for a couple of hours; wipe it off very 
cautiously, leaving the skin as entire as possible; now slide the fish on an oval wooden foundation 
covered with white paper and fastened on a long dish; support the slice on both sides sO as to 
maintain it level, and cover the surface with half-set jelly applied with a brush, Surround it 
with small artichoke bottoms or hard eggs, 4 la Develle (No. 2502), fill with a vegetable salad (No, 
2650), and decorate around with jelly crusts cut in triangles; serve at the same time two sauce- 
boats of tartar sauce (No. 631). 


788 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2579), SALMON A LA AVELANE (Saumon a la Avelane), 


Prepare and cook a salmon the same as explained a la Déstaing (No. 2580); when cold cover 





of jelly dipped in partly cold jelly, forming a medallion as shown in drawing. Coat over with a 
layer of jelly (No. 103) by means of a funnel having a handle and spring stopper (Fig. 759). Place 
the salmon on the socle and garnish both sides with halved eggs decorated with truffles; between 
these place small mounds of chopped jelly. 


(2580). SALMON A LA DESTAING (Saumon & la Destaing), 

Have a very fresh twelve to sixteen-pound salmon; dress, that is, scrape off the scales, sup- 
press the gills, and empty it by making an incision in the belly; wash it very clean, pare 
off the fins, and lay the salmon on a fish-kettle grate, on its side, the head resting toward 
the left; cover with cold white wine court-bouillon (No. 89) and stand the kettle on a hot fire; 
remove it at the first boil, and keep the liquid at boiling heat, without allowing it to boil up, for 
one hour for a twelve-pound salmon, and one hour and a half for a sixteen-pound one. Let it 
cool off in its own stock, then drain well for two hours. Remove the skin and sanguineous. 
parts in the center so that the meat itself is entirely exposed, then slide it on a board of its own 
dimensions. Place a small bread crotiton, shaped like the tail (a slightly lengthened triangle), 
at the extreme end of the tail, it being shaved down to almost nothing; fill the empty part 
of the fish with butter. Work some butter in a bowl and when very white, smooth and 
frothy, use it to cover the entire fish; have a strong straight band of paper, one inch in 
width, pass it over the butter several times until smooth, following the outlines of the salmon, and 
let get thoroughly cold; now cover it with a sufficiently thick and smooth layer of half-set red 
jelly, decorate this with truffles, pistachios, hard egg-white, and the red part of lobster meat; 
imitate the eye, mouth and gills, covering it over with more jelly. Dress it either on a socle or 
large dish, and surround with small shrimp aspics molded in timbale molds (No. 2. Fig. 137), dec- _ 
orated with eggs and truffles, filling them with a salpicon of shrimp mingled with jellied mayon- 
naise (No. 613), and fillets of sole, pared round. Cover with jellied mayonnaise, to which add 
chopped tarragon and chervil, then mask this over with jelly. Serve some mayonnaise sauce (No. 
606) separately. 


(2581). SALMON A LA FARRAGUT (Saumon & la Farragut). 

Prepare and cook the fish as 4 la Destaing (No. 2580); cover with creamy white butter and let 
it get thoroughly cold; on the central part lay a thin band of crawfish butter (No. 573), an eighth of 
an inch thick by ten inches wide, so as to entirely cover this part of the fish. Decorate the top 
with fanciful bits of truffles, crawfish tails, anchovies and tarragon leaves; when the fish is very 
cold, cover it over with light red half-set jelly, and place it on its socle or dish; garnish around 
with sixteen small crawfish tartlets prepared as follows: Make some tartlets with fine foundation 
paste (No. 135), and when cold fill them either with crawfish tails or oysters, clams, etc., that have 
been laid in a marinade, and then cover with half-set jelly. Between these tartlets place 
sixteen white onions about one and three-eighths inches in diameter, from which cut off 
about an eighth of the stalk end, and as much from the root end; blanch for five minutes 
in plenty of water, then refresh and cook slightly firm in white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); 
drain, empty, and fill them up with Cambridge butter (No. 570), or else marinate them for 
two hours in oil, vinegar, saltand pepper. Place these onions on round pieces of beetroot one inch 
in diameter, and empty them with a half-inch tube. Cut eight more onions in three even parts. 
across and use only the two end pieces; blanch them in salted water and vinegar, drain and fill 
with jellied ravigote mayonnaise, made by mixing ravigote sauce (No. 623) with jellied mayonaise 
(No. 618); place them over the others, and arrange small sprigs of green water cress on top. 
A printaniére mayonnaise sauce (No. 612) is to be served separately. 


COLD SERVICKE. "89 


(2582). SALMON A LA MODERN, ON SOCLE (Saumon 3 la Moderne sur Socle), 


The fish, as represented in Fig. 526, is laid on its belly on a long wooden foundation covered 
over with white paper; the foundation with the fish is placed on a poate. and this is standing on 
a large tray. Every part is movable and independent, so that the piece can be easily trans arte 
The tray is made of wood of oval form, with rounded prolongations on each end: it ae 
several feet; the body of the tray is simply covered with white paper, and it has sf open-work 
silvered border. The socle is oval and hollow, it being made of two pieries of wood, one ede than 
the other, but fastened together in the center by a solid wooden support: the outlines of the socle 
are made of small pieces of board, or simply of strong cardboard devecen with a thin layer of 
modeling fat (No. 56). The ornaments on the frieze and base of the socle are white wd iaoted i 
fat. The waterfall forming the frieze is made in pieces, stamped in a plaster cast, and put se 
gether, and are upheld by a tin band projecting out all around the top of the socle | The balls can 
also be made in plaster casts in two separate pieces, then put together. The end small octee 
placed on the rounded ends of the tray can be made of fat on a mandrel, or else molded in stearine; 

? 

















































































































a Nat 


| Fie. 526. 
they are movable but are held in place by a wooden peg fixed in the tray, and passing up through 
the base of the socle; each one of these is filled with macédoine salad (No. 2650). dressed 
in a pyramid and surmounted by slices of lobster. To cook the salmon whole it should be drawn 
through the gills, after scaling, and the inside filled with an ordinary bread stuffing (No. 61), 
then trussed: fasten it erect on the grate of a fish-kettle with string; cover with white wine 
court-bouillon (No. 39); heat up the liquid, skimming it at the first boil, and leave it 
on one side of the fire to quiver for an hour to an hour and a half; remove and cool 
partly on the grate out of the water. Untie it when cold, drain and lay it on the oval 
foundation, supporting it in two places on each side with wedges and supports, so as to keep it in 
position. These supports are hidden under sprigs of parsley leaves, then brushed over with half- 
set jelly. The small trout which constitute the garnishing on the front of the tray are cooked au 
bleu, as directed in No. 1297, well drained and laid in two symmetrical rows on a bed of chopped 
sticky jelly (No. 2526); they are then covered over with jelly the same as the salmon. These two 
rows of trout are separated by a cluster of round, peeled and cooked truffles after being covered 
with jelly (No. 103) or meat glaze (No. 402); this cluster of truffles may be replaced by one of red 
shrimps or simply by fresh parsley leaves. This dish as represented in the design is intended for 
a sideboard supper or a ball; it must be accompanied by four sauce-boats of mayonnaise sauce (No. 


606). 





tis 


(2583), SALMON A LA REGENCE, ON SOCLE (Saumon & la Régence sur Socle), 


Arrange and cook the salmon the same as for Destaing (No. 2580); cover with a very smooth 
layer of white butter, then with one or two coats of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). When cold dec- 
orate to imitate the head of the fish and ornament the surface with small truffle crescents graduated 
in size, or else with a large oval medallion about half the length of the salmon. Let the fish be 
very cold, then cover with a coating of half-set jelly; lay it on a socle and garnish around 


with a border of halved eggs filled with macédoine (No. 2508); between this border and the fish 


place lettuce hearts cut in foar. Serve a well-seasoned printanitre mayonnaise (No. 612) with the 


salmon. 3 


790 - ‘THE EPICUREAN. 


(2584), SALMON A LA SEYMOUR (aumon & la Seymour), 


Have a salmon prepared and cooked the same as Destaing (No. 2580); carefully suppress the 
skin and the brown parts of the meat; fill the inside with butter and cover with several layers of 
pale pink jelly; decorate with fanciful cuts of egg-white and pistachios and garnish around with. 
marinated lobster escalops covered with white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), on which strew truffles, 
gherkins and egg-white, each of these to be chopped up separately; then mask with jelly; decorate 
with basket-shaped eggs (No. 2508); also have lettuce hearts cut in four and at each end place: 
green water cress. Accompany this fish by a sauce-boat of ravigote mayonnaise sauce (No. 612). 


(2585), SALMON A LA COURBET (Saumon & la Courbet), 


Have the salmon already prepared and cooked the same as the Destaing (No. 2580); cover it. 
with softened and smooth crawfish butter (No. 573) and decorate through a cornet; dredge the. 
whole surface lightly with lobster coral chopped exceedingly fine and sifted through a sieve. Lay 
the fish on a socle and garnish around with lobster escalops covered with jellied mayonnaise (No. 
613) and strew the surface with finely chopped truffles; between the escalops place clusters of fine 
large shrimp tails covered with jelly, and between each moscovite egg garnishing (No. 2511). Insert 
in the fish three hatelets composed of crawfish and decorated quenelles. Serve a mayonnaise: 
cardinal sauce (No. 608) at the same time. 


(2586). SALMON, RUSSIAN STYLE (GSaumon a la Russe), 


Prepare and cook the salmon the same as for Destaing (No. 2580); cover with white butter, then: 
with mayonnaise (No. 606), into which stir as much slightly dissolved jelly (No. 103); cover it well 
through a funnel the same as explained for 4 la Avelane (No. 2579) and scatter over truffles, egg- 
white, lobster coral and parsley, all finely and separately chopped. Imitate the eyes and gills and 
garnish around with Polish eggs (No. 2512), and between each egg place large oysters, blanched, 
marinated and covered with a white chaudfroid (No. 596). Decorate the intersections with lettuce. 
and water cress and serve with a sauce-boat of tartar sauce (No. 631). 


(2587), SALMON, VENETIAN STYLE (Saumon a la Vénitienne), 


Cook and prepare the salmon the same as the Destaing (No. 2580); cover it with ravigote butter- 
(No. 583), and lay over this on its entire surface one or several beds of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). 
of a light green shade; decorate with gherkins, capers, branches of chervil and tarragon leaves, 
imitate the eyes and gills and cover the whole with a thin layer of jelly. Dress the fish on a dish. 
or socle and garnish around with paupiettes of smelts laid over some artichoke bottoms; be- 
tween these put quartered eggs (No. 2518); intersect clusters of water cress and lettuce hearts cut: 
in four and’ chopped jelly. Decorate with three hatelets, two of shrimps and one of crawfish.. 
A green mayonnaise sauce (No. 612) accompanies this salmon. 


(2588), SALMON, WITH MONTPELLIER OR CAMBRIDGE BUTTER (Saumon au Beurre de Mont-. 
pellier ou au Beurre de Cambridge). 


The aie must first be prepared and cooked the same as for the Destaing (No. 2580); cover: 
it either with Montpellier butter (No. 582), or Cambridge butter (No. 570); decorate through a. 
cornet and in the center form a medallion; lay here and there olives, capers and sliced pickled. 
gherkins, and garnish around with trussed crawfish, lettuce hearts, water cress and hard eggs cut 
as barrels (No. 2507), also oysters covered with ravigote jelly. Serve a remoulade sauce (No. 624): 
separately. 


(2589), SLICED SHEEPSHEAD WITH JELLY (Tranches de Sheepshead & la Gelée), 


Cut off two fine slices of raw sheepshead, salt over and leave to macerate for one hour. Fry 
in butter or oil a root and a minced onion; add root mirepoix with aromatics, parsley and a clove of 
garlic; moisten with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), having plenty of it so as to cover the fish 
well, and boil the liquid for an hour, then strain. Put the slices of sheepshead into a deep earthen 
dish, suitable to be placed in the oven, cover over with the marinade stock and then with a strong 
paper; allow the liquid to boil up once before pushing the dish into a slack oven to cook the fish: 
slowly for twenty minutes. After taking it out drain off the slices, remove the skin and lay them: 
in a deep serving dish; strain the stock, lift off all the fat from the surface and mix in with it the 





COLD SERVICE. 794 


e 


‘same amount of very thick aspic jelly (No. 103) and a dash of good vinegar; pour this into the dish 
containing the fish and decorate the top with thin slices of lemon. After the jelly has become hard 
serve the fish accompanied by a sauce-boat of grated horseradish, mixed with a little good cream. 


(2590), SHELLS OF CAPON WITH JELLY (Coquilles de Chapon & la Gelée), 


Cut up into small dice the white meats of a capon; put them in a bowl with a third of their 
quantity of cooked mushrooms cut the same size; season with salt, oil and vinegar, and let mace- 
rate for half an hour, then drain off the seasoning and put the salpicon into a mayonnaise (No. 606),. 
stirring into it two spoonfuls of gherkins likewise cut in dice pieces. With this preparation fill 
some shells, have the tops bomb-shaped and cover over with a thin layer of mayonnaise, then smooth: 
the surface with a knife, decorate the top with fanciful cuts of truffles, gherkins and some beets; 
dress the shells on a folded napkin with sprigs of parsley in the center. 


(2591), SHELLS OF PERCH OR RED SNAPPER (Coquilles de Perche ou de Red Snapper), 


Cold shells are prepared with the same materialsas the hot shells, using the cold meats of 
perch, red snapper, salmon, bass, sole, halibut, turbot. lobster or crawfish, the manner of prepara- 
tion differing only. Cut the cold fish into small three-eighths of an inch dice and put them into a 
bowl with a third as much cooked mushrooms, as many truffles and a few spoonfuls of gherkins cut. 
the same as the fish; season with salt, oil and vinegar and let macerate for a quarter of an hour. 
Drain the seasoning from the salpicon and replace it by a jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and with 
this preparation fill up the shells, smoothing the surface to a dome and covering them over with a. 
layer of the same mayonnaise; decorate the tops with details of smoked salmon, truffles, egg-white 
and gherkins, cut out with a column tube. Surround the base of each one of the domes with a 
string of chopped jelly pushed through a cornet. 


(2592). SOCLES AND ORNAMENTS (Socles et Ornements). 
These socles, as represented by Fig. 527-528, are made on astand covered with modeling fat (No. 


NS 


Vii 


Cai Mails 


oS 











amented either through a cornet or else with a border of fanciful 


56) and cut out with a knife, then orn 
These two socles, although differently ornamented, are both 


pieces stamped in a mold or molded. 
constructed on the same principle and on the same plan. 


792 Ey Ee PT Cun Ae 


Small socles are intended for decorating a sideboard of small dimensions; they can also be 
placed on a dinner table, either to figure as a center-piece—should there be no other—or at the 
ends of the table if there be two, but in that case it will be necessary to have the upper garnishings 
and decorations dressed on a dish, instead of being directly on the socle, so they can be readily 


















































Fie. 528. 
removed and handed to the guests. In either case the socles should be fastened on a large dish 
or tray. : 

Each socle stands on a solid, wooden, hollow drum that answers for a base; on top of the 
socle is another low-shaped drum, also made of wood and covered with white paper, having in its 























Fic. 529. 

center a thin wooden support forming a pyramid and arranged in such a way that it can afford a 
perfect support to the garnishings; this support has on its top a small platform on which can be 
laid any desired object or subject. 


rie 


COLD SERVIOKE. 793 


The garnishings on the first of these socles (Fig. 527) is composed of small cold chicken or par- 
tridge galantines made oval, then cut up, reconstructed and covered over with a blond chaudfroid (No. 
596). They stand almost upright, leaning against the central support, but to be more assured of their 
safety it were advisable to-inclose each galantine on the bottom with a solid wooden or cardboard 
shoe, the shape of a horseshoe. The galantines are decorated after they are dressed, and are then 


covered with half-set jelly. Exactly on top of these galantines lay a row of small paper cases filled 


with truffles, and fasten them against the central support. On the platform above is set a small 











modeled or cast subject. The base of the small drum on which the galantines rest is surrounded 
by a row of round, even-sized truffles, peeled and glazed over with a brush. 

The garnishings for the second socle consist of seven or eight large crimped paper cases shaped 
into half-hearts, pointed on one end and rounded on the other. These cases are filled with a 
frothy foies-gras preparation made the same as for pheasant cutlets, smoothed dome-shaped and 
covered with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). 

The figure on top represents a satyr seated on a rock, under which is laid a row of small cases 
containing truffles. The base of the small drum on which the garnishings repose may be deco- 
rated with small cases of truffles or with fine jelly crofitons (No. 2442). 

Let it be observed that the garnishings for these socles can be modified or replaced by 


others. 


(2593), SOLES A LA MAZAGRAN—FILLETS (Filets de Soles & la Mazagran). 


This entrée is to be dressed on a wooden foundation fastened to a dish having a pyramidical 





a) OO C7 
Fia. 531. 


wooden support in its center, both to be covered with white paper. First prepare a small variegated 
macédoine salad (No. 2650); let it macerate for two hours in its seasoning, then drain it off, and 


dress the salad with thick mayonnaise (No. 606), and keep it on ice. Suppress the shells from the 


794. THE EHPICUREAN. 


claws and tails of two lobsters simply cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), and left till cold; split 
the claws in two through their thickness, and brush over with half-set jelly, so as to be able to 
fasten them together again; also divide the tail meats into several slices from top to bottom, and. 
wet each slice with half-set jelly, so as to be able to reshape them as before; keep these tails and 
claws on ice. Cook the fillets of three soles in a baking tin with white wine court-bouillon (No. 
39), and as soon as done drain and range them on another baking tin and cover over with but- 
tered paper; let cool off under a weight, then pare them all of the same length, not too freely, 
suppressing only the thin ends. Take the fillets up one by one, dip them into a white chaudfroid 
sauce (No. 596), reduced, with a part of the stock they are cooked in, and range then once more 
on the same tin, keeping them a slight distance apart; cool them off on ice, and then cut away 
the surplus sauce. With the prepared salad, mingled with the fragments of lobster tail, cover the 
pyramidical support all around so as to increase its thickness, but keeping it in the same shape; 
smooth and cover over with a layer of jellied mayonnaise (No. 6138). Against this pyramid dress the: 
fillets of soles standing upright, one overlapping the other, and cover them with half-set jelly put. 
on with a brush. On top of the pyramid dress the two prepared claws and tails, surround them 
with a thick string of chopped jelly to keep them in position and cover them as well with the 
half-set jelly. Place all around the bottom of the dish even-sized fine jelly crottons (No. 2442), 
and keep the dish for ten minutes on ice, then serve with a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 


(2594), STURGEON OR STERLET, LIVONIENNE—SMALL (Petit Esturgeon ou Sterlet Livon- 
ienne), 


Clean the -fish and put it in a fish-kettle to moisten with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); 
boil and leave to cool off in its stock, then dress it on a dish, having carefully preserved the fish 
perfectly whole; let get thoroughly cold in the ice-box. Cover over with half-set jelly or else with 
fish-glaze (No. 399) and crawfish butter (No. 573); decorate it around with trussed crawfish, herring 
paupiettes (No. 789), cucumbers stuffed with vegetables, gherkins, olives, chopped jelly and 
crotitons. Serve a mayonnaise ravigote sauce (No. 612) at the same time. 


(2595), SWEETBREADS A LA MIRABEAU (Ris de Veau & la Mirabeau), 


Braise (No. 12) thesweetbreads first, and as soon as done put them in the press (Fig. 71) or under: 
a light weight; cut them in two on their thickness; witha two inch in diameter pastry cutter cut out 
some round pieces, cover with blond chaudfroid (No. 596), and decorate each with a handsome. 
rosette of very black truffles; cover over with half-set jelly, and range them on top of a macédoine 
salad (No, 2650), dressed with mayonnaise piled into a high dome; have a border of jelly crotitons. 
around, and serve tartar sauce (No. 631) separately. 


(2596), TERRINE OF DUCKS’ LIVER A L’AQUITAINE (Terrine de Foies de Canards & 
lV Aquitaine), . 

Put two and a half pounds of fat ducks’ liver in a terrine, after removing the gall, seasoned. 
with foies-gras spices (No. 168) and larded with large fillets of raw truffles. Pound the truffle 
parings with five ounces of fresh chopped fat pork and six ounces of very white lean veal or pork. 
meat, free from sinews, also chopped up finely, and four ounces of raw lean ham, adding the liver 
parings, salt and spices. Infuse a piece of cinnamon stick in a little Madeira wine, pass it through 
a sieve and mix it with the forcemeat, also six spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season the: 
whole to perfection. Cover the bottom and sides of a medium No. 8 terrine with thin bards of fat 
pork, lay on a bed of the prepared forcemeat and then range in the livers, pressing them closely 
together: mask over with a thick layer of the foreemeat and cover with a thin bard of fat pork; set. 
on the cover and place the terrine on a small raised-edge baking pan containing a little hot water; 
push it into the oven to bake for an hour; remove and lay it away to cool with a light weight on 
top; when thoroughly cold fill it to the edge with lard and butter, melted together. This terrine 
is to be served either whole, by suppressing the fat, or by unmolding it on a dish without cutting it 
up and merely removing the fat pork and grease, or else in the terrine itself. Decorate with 
chopped jelly and erofitons (No. 2442). 


(2597), TERRINE OF KERNEL OF HAM (Terrine de Noix de Jambon), 


Raise the kernel from a fresh ham; suppress the rind and lard with large lardons (No. 1, 
Fig. 52), seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley. Put it in a vessel with carrots, minced. 
onions, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), salt, pepper and Madeira wine; let macerate for forty- 


COLD SERVICE. 195 


eight hours in a cool place, turning it over frequently. Cover the bottom and sides of a terrine 
that can stand the oven with chopped forcemeat (No. 68); lay the kernel in the center, cover 
with more forcemeat and the whole with bards of fat pork; put on the lid and place the terrine in 
a deep baking tin containing water; push into a slack oven for three hours; remove, place a round 
of wood fitting the inside of the terrine over and a light weight on top; when cold, remove this 
round of wood and cover the surface with chopped jelly; then serve. 


(2598), TERRINE OF HARE (Terrine de Lidvre), 


Choose a fresh-skinned and clean hare, remove the fillets from the back, the minion fillets and 
the kidneys, reserving these apart. Take the meat from the shoulders and legs. and chop it well; 
mix with it an equal quantity of boned turkey forcemeat (No. 65), and an equal quantity of 
baking forcemeat (No. 64); mix well. Pare the large fillets from the hare’s back; cut them up into 
big squares and put into a vessel with the minion fillets and kidneys cut likewise, adding as much 
blanched fat pork cut the same, a few raw truffles and a piece of foies-gras; season these meats 
- and pour over a few spoonfuls of brandy and Madeira wine, then let macerate for a few hours. 
Select a proper-sized cooking terrine, cover the bottom and around with thin slices of fat pork and 
fill it up in layers, intermingling each layer of forcemeat with a bed of the squares prepared before- 
hand, and finishing with forcemeat on top; cover the whole with fat pork. Set the terrine on a 
baking pan with a little hot water and let bake for one hour and a half to two hours inaslow oven; 
after removing, put it away in a cool place, with a weight laid on top, for three-quarters of an 
hour at least, and serve it only after twenty-four hours has elapsed; remove the fat from the top, 
and garnish with chopped jelly and crotitons (No. 2442). 


(2599), TERRINE OF LARKS (Terrine de Mauviettes), 


Bone two or three dozen larks: season, cook a part of the intestines with fat pork and then pass 
them throughasieve. Prepare a pound and a half of chopped galantine forcemeat (No. 66), place it 
in a vessel and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), chopped truffles and 
the intestine pulp. Spread the larks on the table and lay in each one a forcemeat ball. Line a 
terrine used for cooking and proceed to fill it exactly as described for terrine of ducks’ liver 4 
VY Aquitaine (No. 2596). Bake slowly for an hour anda quarter; let it cool, pressing it slightly half 
an hour after it leaves the oven; when cold garnish with jelly. 


(2600), TERRINE DE NERAO (Terrine de Nérac), 


Cut off the feet and wings from a medium-sized partridge; bone and season with allspice (No. 168); 
take out the liver and carefully remove the gall from it, then pound and mixit to pound again with 
half a pound of chopped pork forcemeat (No. 68). Cut up some cooked ham, some tongue, truffles, 
fat pork, and the minion fillets taken from the partridge, in quarter-inch square pieces; mix all in with 
the forcemeat, and with it fill the boned partridge, proceeding the same as for a boned chicken (No. 
2485a). Line a terrineof the same capacity as the boned partridge (one that can be placed in the 
oven) with slices of fat pork; on top of this set a layer of the pork forcemeat, and then put in the 
partridge with the breast downward; finish filling up with truffles and more forcemeat, and lay slices 
of fat pork on top. Set the cover on and fasten it all around with strips of paper dipped in a flour 
and water paste; bake it one and a half to two hours, more or less, according to the size and thickness 
of the terrine. After removing and unfastening it put inside a smaller cover that can easily enter 
the top, to take the place of its own, and press lightly under a weight; drain off all the grease aris- 
ing over the inside cover which is used for pressing it, and when the contents are perfectly cold 
remove the small cover and pour back the grease previously removed, and after this has cooled off 
cover the whole with melted lard. Return the original cover to the terrine after washing it well; 
fasten it on again with pasted tin foil and keep it in acool place. When wanted for use take 
off all the grease, unmold, dress and garnish around with chopped jelly, or it may be served 
in its own terrine. 


(2601), TERRINE OF PLOVERS AND LARKS (Terrine de Pluviers et Mauviettes), 


Take off the fillets from eight plovers; remove their skin, lay them in a vessel and season with 
salt and spices, and moisten with a little brandy and Madeira. Detach and cut up the leg meats; 
put four ounces of fat pork in a sautoir, and when melted add the intestines without the gizzard 
and pouch; fry all together over a brisk fire with half a pound of chicken livers, the cut-up leg 


796 THE EPICUREAN. 


meats, and some chopped shallots and mushrooms; when this is cold pound it with an equal quantity 
of chopped-up fresh fat pork, and press the preparation through asieve. Cover the bottom and 
sides of a terrine with thin bards of fat pork; over this a layer of forcemeat; fill the center with the 
skinned plover fillets; on this lay a layer of the prepared forcemeat; on this some larks boned and 
stuffed with game forcemeat made with a pound of game, the same of fat pork, a few truffles and 
pistachios, and small squares of ham; now place another layer of the forcemeat, more fillets, and so 
on until the terrine is quite full; all these ingredients should be well seasoned; range on top a bard 
of the fat pork and the cover; put it in a low saucepan containing a little water; cook in a moderate 
oven for an hour and a half, and when the meats are done press down lightly, and set it aside to 
cool. Fill the terrine with melted butter and lard, half of each, and use only when cold. 


(2602), TERRINE OF PORK LIVER (Terrine de Foies de Pore), 


Procure two pounds of the whitest pork liver, three pounds of fresh fat perk, four ounces 
of onion and one ounce of shailot, both chopped very finely and separately, four ounces together 
of salt, pepper, fine spices (No. 168), and a little powdered thyme, six ounces of flour, one ounce ot 
truffles, one ounce of pistachios, and two ounces of tongue, these three latter to *e chopped sepa- 
rately. Work the whole well together to obtain a compact paste, then divide it into three parts. 
Line the inside of a terrine with thin slices of fat pork, place in it one of the parts, and on it lay a 
bed of quarter of an inch squares of fat pork, then another one of the parts of forcemeat, 
another layer of fat pork squares, and on these the third or remaining part. Theterrine should 
be filled to one inch below the edge, then covered with bards of fat pork; place a bay leaf on top, and 
set on the cover. Push the terrine into a moderate oven, standing on a baking sheet, and when 
cooked remove and lay a round of wood on it the size of the inside of the terrine; place under the 
press so as to press it down lightly, and leave it thus to cool for twelve hours. 


(2603), TERRINE OF SNIPE (Terrine de Bécassizneas), 


Bone two snipe, divide each one in two parts and lay them ina dish with five or six peeled and 
cut-up truffles, and as much cooked ham fat, or fat pork; season the ineats and truffles highly and 
pour over a little Madeira wine. Take the meat from the leg of a hare, cut it in pieces and fry ina 
saucepan with double its quantity of chicken or game livers until weil done, then add the birds’ 
intestines and leave to cool; chop this up with a third as much raw and chopped fresh pork, and 
then season the whole; put it in a mortar to pound with the same amount of fresh fat pork pre- 
viously chopped and pounded with the truffle parings; add to this foreemeat a pinch of prepared 
spices (No. 168). Five minutes later set it in a vessel and incorpo¢ate with it the Madeira wine used 
for marinating the snipe. Cover the bottom and sides of a terrine with slices of unsalted fat pork 
and these with a layer of the prepared forcemeat; range the pieces of snipe, truffles and ham in 
the center, alternated with the remainder of the forcemeat; the terrine should now be quite full. 
Smooth the top with a knife and cover with slices of fat pork; put on the lid and set it in a baking 
pan with a glassful of hot water; push it into a moderate oven to cook for an hour and a half. 
When the water in the pan evaporates pour in some inore, and when done take it out and 
leave to cool partly, then set a light weight on top, and when thoroughly cold take the contents 
from the terrine, divide in two across, return one-half to the terrine, cut up the remaining half into 
oblong pieces and dress them again in a circlein the same terrine. Garnish the center with chopped 
jelly. 


(2604), TERRINE OF WILD RABBITS (Terrine de Lapins Sauvages). 


Cut off the limbs of two or three wild rabbits previously skinned, cleaned, and the meats nicely 
wiped; bone the four limbs and the back, cut the back fillets in pieces, also the meat from the legs, 
and lard them with shreds of raw ham and bits of truffles; lay them in a vessel to season with pul- 
verized wild thyme, and pour over a few spoonfuls of brandy or Madeira wine; let macerate for 
two or three hours, adding a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). With the minion fillets 
and the nicest parings prepare a forcemeat, mix with it an equal quantity of baking forcemeat 
(No. 81), and to this dressing add the marinade from the meats. Cover the bottom and 
sides of a cooking terrine with a layer of the prepared forcemeat, then begin to fill it 
with the pieces of rabbit intermingled with large lardons of foies-gras and truffles, both raw, but 
seasoned, and alternate the forcemeat with layers of the meats; cover the top with foreemeat and 
thin slices of fat pork over all. Set the terrine into a deep baking pan containing hot water, and 
bake for one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half in a moderate oven; after it has been re- 
moved one quarter of an hour set a weight on top and allow to cool off. 


he thei, VCE, hg 


(2605), TIMBALE OF PHEASANTS WITH TRUFFLES (Timbale de Faisans aux Truffes), 


Remove the meat from the breast of two raw pheasants. Chop up the fleshy part of the legs 
with one fillet and the carcass parings, and with it mix an equal quantity of fat pork, a few ie 
truffles and fragments of foies-gras; pound well and pass through a sieve. Cut into large ater ve 
remaining breast meats and lay them in a vessel with as much cut-up raw foies-gras; season highly 
and pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine; keep this in a cool place for two Boas Rate 
a large dome-shaped mold, broader than it is high; line it with cold pie paste (No. 144) and cater 
with a layer of the forcemeat, filling the empty space with the contents of the vessel; cover the top. 





with a thick, well-rounded layer of the same, and then lay several slices of fat pork on all; close up 
the aperture of the mold with a flat of the same paste, fastening it to the edges, and in the center 
bore a small opening. Now lay the timbale on a small-sized baking sheet and let it cook for about 
an hour and a half in aslack oven; after it has been removed for a quarter of an hour pour into 
the hole two or three gills of brown chaudfroid (No. 594), reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397) 
and Madeira wine, and let it cool for twenty-four hours before unmolding. When ready to serve 
invert it on the table, lift off the mold and cut from the bottom a slice about an inch thick, then 
begin cutting the dome into even slices, not too thick, from the top to the bottom; restore these to 
their original shape on the piece cut from the bottom. Dress the timbale on a wooden founda- 
tion attached to adish and covered with white paper; have small holes perforated at equal distances 
around the edges of this foundation and into these stick a dozen small hatelets, each one being 
garnished with two peeled truffles, one larger than the other. On the summit of the dome insert 
another hatelet garnished with large truffles; surround the foundation either with handsome jelly 
crotitons (No. 2442), or else with slices of pie cooked in a cradle mold. 


(2606). BEEF TONGUE A LA ROCHEFORT (Langue de Bouf & la Rochefort). 
Prepare and cook a tongue, as explained in red beef tongue, No. 2608; after it iscold cut away the 
entire center of the tongue, as in the accompanying design (Fig. 533); cut this part into slices, 
reconstruct and glaze it nicely with a brush dipped in partly set jelly. Set it on a plain or 





anciful cuts of truffles, egg-whites, 


earved rice foundation; ornament the ends of the tongue with f 
filled with slices of foies-gras, and 


and pistachio nuts; on the foundation place a shell made of grease, 


798 THE EPICUREAN. 


chopped jelly sprinkled over; stick two garnished hatelets in the thick end, and at the tip of the 
tongue a crotiton of jelly laid in tiers (Fig. 465), one on top of the other. Garnish the sides with 
elazed carrot balls, and the ends with chopped jelly; surround the socle with chopped jelly and 
erotitons of jelly cut in squares. - 


(2607). RED BEEF TONGUES ARCADE (Langues de Bouf Ecarlate en Arcade), 
Prepare and cook the tongues in water, lay them in a mold having the shape of a tongue two 
and a quarter inches thick, then place them under a weight to get cool; pare, and cover them 
witha brown chaudfroid (No. 594) and decorate with designs of egg-white, truffies and pistachio nuts. 





Fie. 534. 


Mask the decoration with a partly solidified jelly, and arrange these tongues on a silver-plated 
support, as represented in the accompanying Fig. 534; garnish around with chopped jelly and a 
border of jelly crofitons. 


(2608), RED BEEF TONGUES, SMOKED (Langues de Bouf Ecarlate Fumées), 


Cut off the windpipes and prick the tongues with the point of a trussing needle; rub over with 
pulverized saltpetre, mingled with as much brown sugar, and place them in an earthen or wooden 
vessel between layers of white salt, with thyme, bay leaf, basil, juniper berries and cloves. 
Put a board over with a weight on top; turn them after three days and cover so that the air cannot 
enter and repeat the operation every three days during the period of twelve. To cook, place them 
in a stock pot after washing in several waters; cover with a sufficient quantity of water to allow 
them to swim, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with two carrots and two onions; boil slowly 
for an hour to an hour and a half until thoroughly cooked, which can be ascertained by inserting the 
point of a trussing needle deep into them; remove from the stock and wrap in a wet cloth; leave to 
cool, then dress them in a circle leaning against a crotiton with the tips downward; garnish with 
jelly and serve. 


(2609), RED BEEF TONGUES WITH JELLY (Langues de Bouf Ecarlate & la Gelée), 


Cut away the fat and cartilaginous part from six beef tongues, wash and wipe them well, then 
prick them with a larding needle; rub each tongue over, using half an ounce of saltpetre for each 
one. Lay them in a bowl, covering them with a layer of salt; set a board over with a weight on - 
top, and leave them there for twelve hours, then range them in an earthen vessel or wooden tub. 
‘over them with a brine prepared as follows: Have eight quarts of water and one pound or more 

salt; test the brine, to see whether it be strong enough, by putting in an egg or potato, and 
i{ it floats on the surface then the brine is sufficiently strong. Boil it, adding half a pound 
of brown sugar, and let get cool before pouring it over the tongues; leave them in this pickle for 





COLD SERVICE. 799 


twelve to fifteen days, setting them in a very cool place, and laying a board over with a weight on 
top so as to keep them continually under the brine, turning them over in it every three days; when 
they are to be used, place them in plenty of cold water, and set on the fire to boil for three or four 
hours according to their size; when done plunge them into fresh water, remove their skins, press them 
down under a weight, trim them nicely, then cut out the entire center of the tongue, leaving a 
piece underneath and at both ends; cut this square piece into thin slices, return them to their 
original position, then glaze the tongue with meat glaze (No. 402); dress it on a dish over a layer 
of bread spread with green butter (No. 583), and decorate it through acornet with the same butter. 
Garnish around with chopped jelly, having a border of nicely shaped jelly crofitons (No. 2442). 


(2610). CALVES’ TONGUES A LA MACEDOINE (Langues de Veau a la Macédoine), 


Cook six calves’ tongues, salted as the beef tongue No. 2609, in salted water for eight days, 
and unsalted in fresh water for six hours; when done remove and lay them to cool under a weight. 
After suppressing the skin, pare them rounded at the thick end, and cut the two surfaces off 
straight, then split each one lengthwise in two or three, brush over with meat glaze (No. 402) and 
cover with a little half-set jelly to give them brilliancy. Besides this prepare a vegetable macédoine 
with Brussels sprouts, small clusters of cauliflower, balls of potatoes and carrots, string beans 
sliced or cut in lozenges, asparagus tops and green peas; all of these vegetables should be blanched 
separately; season the salad and form it symmetrically into a pyramid on the middle of a dish. 
Dress the halved tongues upright in a circle around with their pointed ends upward, and surround 
the whole with jelly, serving a tartar sauce No. (681), or cold ravigote (No. 628) apart. 


(2611), BROOK TROUT ‘A LA CAREME (Truites de Ruisseau & la Caréme), 


Seale, wash and draw the fish without opening their bellies; wrap them up in sheets of but- 
tered paper and cook them in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when done, drain, unwrap 
and remove the skin carefully. Lay them in a deep dish, one beside the other, placing them very 
straight; strain the stock over and allow to cool off thoroughly in this, then take them from the 
liquor, wipe dry, dress and cover one-half with white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and the other 
half with green ravigote (No. 623) mixed with jellied mayonnaise. Decorate the tops with egg- 
white, truffles, anchovy fillets, gherkins and pistachios; surround with chopped jelly and croftons, 
and serve a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time. 


(2612), TROUT WITH JELLY, TARTAR SAUCE (Truites a la Gelée, Sauce Tartare), 


Let the fish be very fresh for it loses its best qualities when kept from the water or on ice for 
any length of time. Clean the fish through the gills without opening or scaling it. Lay it 
on the belly side on the fish grate, cover with cold and strained white wine court-bouillon (No. 
39), heat the liquid and skim; at the first boil withdraw it to one side, so that it quivers 





Fia. 535. 


for fifteen minutes. Remove the fish with the grate, and let drain for a couple of hours, 
then slide it on a wooden foundation concealed by white paper and fastened on a large dish; 
support the fish upright, so it will not fall, and cover over with slightly reddened cold 
jelly; garnish the two ends with clusters of shrimps and surround the foundation with jelly 
crotitons (No. 2442); fill up the spaces between the fish with bunches of fresh parsley leaves or 
chopped jelly; serve tartar sauce (No. 631) with the fish. 


800 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2613). TURBOT A LA REMOULADE (Turbot & la Rémoulade). 


Place some slices of turbot cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), in a deep dish; pour over oil, 
vinegar, salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Decorate a border mold (Fig. 138), with fanciful cuts of 
egg-white, truffles, pistachios and red lobster meat; cover these with a thick layer of jelly (No. 
103), and fill it up with shrimps dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); unmold when the 
border becomes very firm, and fill the center with a pad of rice, or of veal and mutton fat, half of 
each; lay the pieces of turbot on top, having suppressed all the bones and skin therefrom; cover the 
fish with remoulade sauce (No. 624), mixed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and serve separately 
a sauce-boat of remoulade sauce. 


(2614), TURKEY A LA STEVENS—STUFFED (Dinde Farcie & la Stevens), 


Fry one onion in two ounces of butter with four ounces of fresh mushrooms chopped up; 
season with salt, nutmeg, fine pepper, parsley, thyme and bay leaf; moisten with half a pint of 
white wine, and set it on a slow fire to let fall to a glaze, then dilute with very thick and well- 
reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), strained through a tammy and cooled off. Put this into the 
mortar gradually with the same amount of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with a spoon 
mix in some truffles and red beef tongue, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and pistachios. 
Bone the breast of a young turkey, fill the empty space with the above dressing, truss it and wrap 
it up in several sheets of buttered paper, then put it to cook in an oval-shaped saucepan lined 
with bards of fat pork, and moisten to half its height with a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 
419); it requires fifteen minutes cooking for each pound of turkey when stuffed. Half an hour 
before serving untie the turkey and let it assume a fine color, then remove and lay it on a dish to 
cool off. With the stock prepare a jelly and use for making some small aspics of foies-gras (No. 
2412), molded in timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 1387), and garnish around with them, placing them on 
chopped jelly and surround with jelly crotitons, and stick on the top three or five hatelets; trim 
the drumsticks with favor frills (No. 10), then serve. 


(2615). TURKEY IN DAUBE A LA VERNEUIL (Dinde en Daube & la Verneuil), 

After picking, singeing and drawing a large turkey, lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), seasoned 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chives and pulverized thyme and bay leaf. Line a braziere (Fig. 134), 
with slices of fat pork, raw lean ham, carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a gill of brandy and two split calf’s feet or knuckle of veal; lay in the turkey. 


( 


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Fia. 536. 


Boil, skim, then set the braziere in the oven for three or four hours until perfectly cooked. Blanca 
and cook separately some turnip balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and some short sticks 
of carrots one inch long by three-eighths of an inch in diameter. When the turkey is cooked put it 
into an earthen or a tin vessel, strain the stock over and when three-quarters cooled remove the 


4 


COLD SERVICE. SOL 


‘ones and skin from the meat. Mold the daube in a mold about oneinch shorter and narrower than 
the mold to be decorated, placing in layers of turkey, calf’s feet, truffles and pistachios. Decorate~ 
the larger mold, the shape of the one in Fig. 536, with the carrot sticks cut lengthwise in two and the 
rounded side applied to the sides of the mold, and the turnip balls also cut in two and the convex 
side applied; the half lozenges on top to be of turnips and the smaller lozenges above of’ 
truffles, below which place a row of small green peas. Coat the decoration and fill the bottom 
with jelly, and when hardened unmold the smallest mold and place it in the decorated one. Fill 
up with cold liquid jelly, let get thoroughly cold on ice, and when sufficiently firm unmold on a 
cold oval dish; garnish around with chopped jelly and triangular jelly crofitons dressed upright. On. 
top fasten three hatelets and on the first platform range a symmetrical border of jelly squares. 
all around. 


(2616), TURKEY OR GOOSE IN DAUBE (Dindon ou Oie en Daube), 


Draw a turkey cock; singe and lard it with large lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg and chives, then stuff it with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which 
mix quarter-inch squares of red beef tongue and lean ham. Place the turkey in a braziere lined 
with slices of fat pork, carrots, minced onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, 
a clove of garlic, a gill of brandy and a split knuckle of veal. Boil, skim and simmer gently 
and allow to braise for three and a half to four hours. Blanch separately some carrots and small 
onions, both trimmed into five-eighths of an inch balls, and when the turkey is partly cooked 
remove it from its stock, strain the liquid, wash the saucepan, and return the turkey to it with: 
its strained and skimmed stock; range around the carrots and onions and finish cooking the vege- 
tables and turkey slowly. When well done, drain, untruss and lay it in an oval stone or tin vessel 
with the vegetables around, pour the stock (which should be sufficiently consistent to form a jelly) 
over and let cool off, then unmold the turkey on a long cold dish; surround the base with chopped. 
jelly and jelly crotitons (No. 2442). 

A goose in daube can be prepared the same way as the turkey. 


(2617), YOUNG TURKEY BREASTS, GUSTAVE DORE (Filets de Dindonneau & la Gustave Doré?. 


Raise the breasts from two turkeys; remove the minion fillets and the skin, and sauté them in: 
butter and lemon juice; set them separately under a weight to cool, then pare and cover over twice: 
with white chaudfroid (No. 596), the same as for chaudfroid of turkey Périgord (No. 2462). 
Decorate with cuts of truffles, and cover with half-set jelly. Pare the four minion fillets, remove : 
the light skin, and the sinews, and range them in a buttered sautoir,; one beside the other, . 
shaping them like crescents; cover over with buttered paper, and poach in a hot oven for a: 
few moments, then cool them off and coat over with a brown chaudfroid (No.'594). Cut some: 
slices of unsmoked red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and from these pare slices. 
the same shape as the minior fillets, and cover them with jelly. Dress the turkey breasts on a cut- 
out rice support, and around a pad of bread covered with green butter (No. 583); decorate around: 
this support with finely chopped jelly, and on it lay the minion fillets and tongue intercalated, and 
outside of the jelly place some triangular-shaped crofitons (No. 2442), cut much longer than their 
width. On top of the support have a vase made of vegetables, filled with small stuffed mush-- 
rooms, as explained in No. 2517. 


(2618). WILD BOAR’'S HEAD, DECORATED (Hure de Sanglier Décorée), 


Cut off the head of a wild boar or wild pig at the neck, near the shoulders; singe and scrape> 
carefully; when well cleaned bone it, beginning under the lower jaw, and when thoroughly boned 
rub it over with four ounces of salt and one of powdered saltpetre. Lay the head in a vessel with 
thyme, bay leaf, basil, mace, cloves, juniper berries and carrots; leave it in two days, rub it over 
once more and let remain six days longer; drain, open, suppress all the aromatics, remove the:- 
greater part of the meats, and cut these into half-inch squares. Have a pound of truffles in a ves— 
sel with a pound of pork minion fillet cut in half-inch pieces, the boar’s tongue and a calf’s tongue,. 
both to be pickled (No. 15), cooked and cooled under a weight, then cut in three-eighths inch squares =. 
also have a pound of blanched fat pork cut up the same size, and a quarter of a pound of greem 
pistachios; season highly and mix these ingredients with a forcemeat prepared with two pounds of © 
lean pork, a pound of lean veal and three pounds of fresh fat pork, the whole chopped finely and 
forced through a sieve. Fill the head with this preparation, close and sew up the aperture, filks 
the mouth with carrots so as to keep it open, cut off the ears and cook them separately in stock 


802 THE EPICUREAN. 


(No. 194a), keeping them firm; tie the head in a cloth and boil it for five hours over a slow fire; 
set it to cool for half an hour, unwrap it and reshape the head as near as possible by wrapping 
tightly around it a linen band, beginning at the snout and finishing at the base of the head; press 
lightly; when entirely cool unwrap. This head may be shaped in a specially made mold, then 
unmolded and glazed. Reconstruct the head with imitated eyes and fangs, and glaze over the | 
well-pared ears with meat glaze and fasten on with skewers; lay it on an oval stand made of rice, 
in two parts, the lower part one and a half inches high the top part one inch high; on the edge of 
the lower one place a wreath of oak leaves; garnish the lower tier with truffles in paper cases and 
the base with chopped jelly and crofttons, and ornament the head with some hatelets. 





Head Cheese.—Salt a pig’s head for three days in a light brine or in sea salt; cook it in 
remoistening (No. 189), with onion, thyme and bay leaf added. After it is done bone it.entirely 
and cut the meat into half-inch squares. Also cut a few slices from the fatty cheek part and 
with them line a square tin mold. Put the squares of meat in a receptacle sufficiently large to 
contain them, and mix together; add four finely chopped shallots, pepper, nutmeg, a soupspoonful 
of chopped parsley, a glassful of good white wine and a pint of melted jelly (No. 103); mix all 
together. Pour all of this into the larded mold, place it in the oven and let cook slowly for half 
an hour. Remove and cover with a board, having a pound and a half weight on top. Cut in 
slices and serve cold. 


(2619). WOODCOCK A LA VALERE (Bécasses 3 la Valére), 


Roast six woodcocks; let them get cold, then raise the fillets from them all; suppress the skin 
and pare into the form of half-hearts, all the same size. Pound the remainder of the meats and 
the insides, from which the gizzard and pouches have been removed and to which half as much 
foies-gras has been added, the whole fried in butter. With this forcemeat mash the fillets on the 
side that adheres to the breast-bone. Put the broken bones into a saucepan with half a pint of 
white wine, a bay leaf and a minced shallot; letsimmer slowly for half an hour, then run it through 
a fine sieve; add this fumet to an espagnole reduced to the consistency of a sauce, then add some 
jelly, cool on ice, stirring continually, and when the chaudfroid is sufficiently consistent cover the 
woodcock fillets; after it becomes quite cold cover with half-set jelly (No. 103), pare and dress on a 
dish in a circle on a nicely carved rice foundation, one and a half inches high. Lay chopped jelly 
around and garnish the center with some salpicon tartlets made of foundation paste (No. 135), 
cooked white and filled with a salpicon of game, red tongue and mushrooms, mingled with a little 
brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Surround with jelly crofitons of two shades alternated, brown and 
white—the former made of brown jelly and the latter of white. 


COLD SERVICE. : 808 


COOKED SALADS (Salades Cuites), 


(2620), DRESSINGS OR SEASONINGS FOR SALADS, TARRAGON AND OHILI VINEGAR 
(Assaisonnements pour Salades, Vinaigre & l’Estragon et au Poivre de Chili), 

Rémoulade Sauce, Pimentade with Tomatoes, Tarragon and Chili Vinegars.—The quan- 
tity of salad to be seasoned and the necessary proportions must be taken into consideration when 
using these dressings. When a salad is served no oil should ever remain at the bottom of the 
bowl; the quantity of oil varies according to the salad. It generally takes three to five spoonfuls 
of oil for one of vinegar. This can be varied according to taste. Americans do not like the taste 
of oil in which the taste of the olive is prominent, and therefore prefer a neutral olive oil. When 
a salad is prepared away from the dining-room it is better to put the salt and pepper in a bowl, 
dissolve them with the vinegar, add the oil and mix well; then pour this over the salad, and stir 
it in a common salad bowl before removing it to the one intended for the table, this being a much 
cleaner method. There are glass decanters for mixing the seasonings, adding to them an egg- 
yolk and a little mustard; shake this well, and by so doing a light mayonnaise is obtained that 
can be poured over the salad. 

Another way is to put the salt and pepper into a spoon, add the vinegar, mix with a fork, pour 
it over the salad and afterward the oil, or else put the salt and pepper into the salad, stir, then add 
the oil, stir once more and lastly pour in the vinegar, stirring it well again. 

Tarragon Vinegar.—Fill a two-quart jar two-thirds full with layers of tarragon leaves, shallots 
and onions; pour over some very strong vinegar and use it two months later, filtering it before 
doing so. 

Chili Pepper Vinegar.—Put into a quart jar half its height of Chili peppers, cover with strong 
wine vinegar, and three months later it can be used, either with the peppers or filtered. 


(2621), ASPARAGUS SALAD (Salade d’Asperges). 


Cut the tender parts of asparagus into pieces of equal length and tie them in bunches, then 
cook them in salted water and leave them to get cold. A few minutes before serving mix them in 
a bowl with a third of their quantity of pared crawfish tails; season with salt and pepper. Rub 
through a sieve the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, dilute this with oil and vinegar, and pour over 
this sauce the asparagus and crawfish, then arrange the salad symmetrically in a salad bowl 
and add the seasoning to it. 


(2622), BAGRATION SALAD (Salade & la Bagration). 


Have some very white lettuce leaves, some anchovies, marinated tunny fish, stoned olives, 
beetroot cut small, minced gherkins and escalops of lobster. Season the lettuce leaves and lay 
them at the bottom of a bow]; also season the other ingredients with a little mayonnaise (No. 606), 
lay them on top of the lettuce, and dredge over and around a border of chopped truffles to 
decorate. Place on top quartered hard-boiled eggs, in the center a pretty lettuce heart, and around 
this some chervil, tarragon, water cress, parsley, burnet and chives, all chopped up very fine and 
divided into six parts, arranging them tastefully around the lettuce heart. 


(2623), BEEF SALAD WITH TOMATOES (Salade de Boeuf aux Tomates), 


Scallop or trim in slices some cold boiled or braised beef, pare the pieces round-shaped, 
and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, also very finely cut-up chervil and chives; lay all on 
a plate or salad bowl, giving it a dome-shape, and garnish around the salad with peeled and quar- 
tered tomatoes. 


(2624), CAPON SALAD A LA MORTIMER (Salade de Chapon & la Mortimer). 


Have a cold roast capon, cut off the thighs and the breasts; suppress all the skin, fat and 
bones. Divide the meat into slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and these into round 
pieces an inch in diameter; lay them in a deep dish, and season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and. 
mustard. Now put into a salad bowl half a pound of salted cucumbers, half a pound of potatoes, 
ed red radishes, a quarter of a pound of celery or celery knob, all being 


a quarter of a pound of mince 
alt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped cheryil and tarragon, and mix 


minced up very fine; season with s 


.§04 THE EPICUREAN. 


thoroughly. Cut into eight pieces sufficient artichoke bottoms to form a border, dip the tips of 
each piece into finely chopped parsley. Prepare rounds of truffles one inch in diameter by one- 
eighth of an inch in thickness; arrange the vegetables at the bottom of a a cold dish, lay the capon 
on top, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and surround the whole with the artichoke. 
bottoms; inside this border lay symmetrically the slices of truffies, and inside of these 
slices of beetroot cut smaller than the truffles, and on top of the beets smaller bits of gherkin; 
finish the center with a small cluster of truffles. Send this salad to the table to show the guests. 
before removing it to stir and serve. 


(2625), CHICKEN SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE—CHICKEN MAYONNAISE (Salade de Poulet a 
_ TAméricaine—Mayonnaise de Poulet). 


Cook a four-pound chicken in some stock (No.194a); the time allowed for this varies considerably, 
according to the age of the chicken, but the usual length of time is about two hours. When the: 
chicken is done put it into a vessel, pour its own broth over, and let it cool therein; remove it, and 
begin by lifting off all the skin and white parts from the breasts; cut the meat into dice from five- 
to six-eighths of an inch, and lay them in a bowi, seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. 
Chicken salad may be prepared either with lettuce or celery, the latter being generally pre- 
ferred. Choose fine white celery,-wash it well, drain and cut it across in one-eighth of an inch. 
thick pieces or else in Julienne; dry them in a cloth to absorb all the water remaining in them. 
Pat at the bottom of a salad bowl intended for the table some salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; 
mustard can be added if desired; mix the seasoning in with the celery. For lettuce prepare an 
ordinary lettuce salad. Lay the pieces of chicken on top, and cover the whole with a layer of 
mayonnaise sauce (No. 606); decorate the surface with quartered hard-boiled eggs, anchovy fillets, 
olives, capers and beets; place some lettuce leaves around, and a fine lettuce heart in the center. 


Chicken Mayonnaise.—Cut into five pieces a roasted chicken weighing two pounds and a half, 
remove the skin and pare nicely. Season the chicken the same as for No. 2625; two hours later: 
toss it in the vessel with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and dress it pyramidically ition any green, 
salad; cover with jelly mayonnaise, and garnish around with halved eggs, olives, capers, anchovies, 
beetroots and chopped jelly. 


(2626). MIGNON SALAD (alade Mignonne). 


Pare four heads of endive or escarole that are not too large, suppress the outer leaves, and wipe- 
the others well without washing them; cut either of these salads across in two parts, put the upper- 
part of the leaves in a bowl, cut up the other half into large Juliennes, and season with salt, 
pepper and some fine oil. Cut in medium Julienne four peeled truffles cooked in wine, season them 
also with salt and oil, cut up the same as the truffles two breasts of chicken cooked in butter and 
lemon juice without attaining a color; let them get cold and lay them on a plate. Shell four hard- 
boiled eggs, rub the yolks through a sieve and set this in a bowl, diluting with some mayonnaise- 
(No. 606), a good ‘spoonful of mustard and a dash of vinegar; add one after the other, first the 
truffles, then the endives, and lastly the chicken breasts, all previously drained of their seasoning. 
Dress the salad in a salad bowl, and decorate the top with truffles, beetroot, eee and lobster- 
coral. 


(2627), CHICKEN SALAD WITH VEGETABLES (Salade de Poulet aux Légumes), 


Cut up a large roast chicken into eight pieces, four from the breasts and four from the legs,. 
suppressing the pinions and carcass; remove the breast bone and the second joint bones, then cut. 
the meats and the fillets each in two or three pieces, taking off the skin; put them in a vessel to- 
season with salt, oil and vinegar. Prepare a macédoine salad (No. 2650), cut in small dice; for 
instance, carrots and turnips blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a), also green peas and string 
beans boiled in salted water. After all these vegetables have been cooked and drained lay them in 
« bowl and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix in some cut-up gherkins and beets, and. 
let macerate for one hour. Drain off the seasonings and finish with mayonnaise, slightly thickened. 
with jelly (No. 606). Dress the chicken and the vegetables in a dome-shape on a cold dish; cover: 





COMD SHRV LOE: 805 


this with a layer of the same mayonnaise, and decorate near the top with a row of sliced truffles; 
divide the dome between the truffles and the bottom into panels by means of round slices of 





gherkins. Surround the base of the dome with slices of beets and potatoes, overlapping. Garnish 
the top with string beans. 


(2628). CRAB SALAD (Salade de Crabes). 


Cook some crabs as explained in bisque of crabs (No. 198); pick the meat from the shells and 
put it on the ice; serve when very cold, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; sprinkle over 
the whole some finely cut-up chives and chervil, also some chopped lobster or crab coral. 


(2629). CRAWFISH SALAD A LA MAINTENON (Galade d’Ecrevisses & la Maintenon), 


In order to dress this salad in an elegant manner, and with a required solidity, it is better to 
fasten a wooden bottom to the dish, covering it with white paper and having on the upper outer 
edge a small wooden or cardboard ledge, and in the center a thin support equally covered with 
white paper. Detach the tails from the bodies of six or eight dozen large, cooked crawfish; sup- 
press the tail shells and claws. Pare the meat from the tails, put it into a bowl, and season with 
salt, oil and vinegar; empty the crawfish bodies, and rub the insides through a sieve. Stuff about 
fifteen of these bodies, when well cleaned, with a salpicon composed of poached oysters and cooked 
truffles; mix in with it the meats from the claws, and the parings from the tails, and stir in a good 





het C9 


Fig. 539, 

white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). Let the preparation become firm by keeping the stuffed bodies 
for halfan hour in the refrigerator. Cut in small quarter-inch squares some cooked and cold fillets 
of sole and salmon, also some anchovy and herring fillets, some marinated tunny-fish, poached eggs, 
potatoes and salt cucumbers; put this salpicon into a bowl, and season it with salt, oil, vinegar and 
mustard, then let macerate for one hour. Drain off the seasoning, and add to it a mayonnaise 
with jelly (No. 613). Dress it dome-shaped onthe wood fastened to the dish, and let it get firm for 
a quarter of an hour in the ice-box; remove the dish from the ice, and cover the dome with a layer 
of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Stick in the crawfish tails one by one, with the point of a larding 
needle so that they lay symmetrically against the dome in two graduated rows; cover them at once 
with half-set jelly, and garnish the hollow of the second or top row with a bunch of green leaves or 
a bunch of chopped jelly. Send a sauce-boat of mayonnaise (No. 606) to the table at the same time. 


(2630), CRAWFISH SALAD WITH JELLY (Salade d’Ecrevisses & la Gelée), 


Detach the tails from the bodies of several dozen cooked crawfish; suppress the shells from the 
tails and largest legs; pare the meats, season, and keep them covered. Prepare a macédoine wee 
(No. 2650), cut into small dice, add to it the legs and parings of shrimps, also cut in dice; season 
with salt, oil and vinegar, and let marinate for one hour. Select a plain border mold with a nar- 


806 THE EHEPICURHAN. 


row cylinder, imbed it in broken ice, and decorate its sides with eggs cut in two, alternated with 
some small vegetable balls dipped in half-set jelly; fill up the empty space in the mold gradually with 
some partly cold jelly (No. 103). Drain the salad on asieve, lay it back into the bowl and mix in with 
it a jellied mayonnaise (No. 618); stir it on ice for a few minutes. Unmold the border on a cold dish; 
place into the cylindrical space a wooden foundation of exactly the same diameter, having on the 





Fia. 540. 


center a light upright support, both being covered with white paper; lay the salad around this. 
support, giving it a pyramidical shape, smooth the surfaces, and cover it with a thin layer of thick 
jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); keep for two minutes on ice. Stick in the crawfish tails one by one, 
using a larding needle for the purpose, first dipping them in half-set jelly, then fasten them to the 
salad in three graduated rows, each one laying in a different direction, and forming a pyramid. 
As soon as each row is finished coat it over with some half-set jelly to consolidate it; in the hollow 
of the third or top row lay a pretty lettuce heart, and serve a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 
606) at the same time as the salad. 


(2631). FISH SALADS (Salades de Poissons), 


These consist principally of perch, trout, turbot and salmon. For these salads the fish 
must be boiled or cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38) beforehand, so that they are cold when needed. 
for use. They can also be made of sautéd fillets of fish; in either case the skin and bones must 
first be removed. Put the fish into a bowl and season it with salt, oil and vinegar; it is generally 
arranged shaped as a pyramid on a cold dish, alternating and upholding the pieces ot fish with a. 
mixed cooked vegetable salad (No. 2650) cut in quarter-inch dice or balls five-sixteenths cf an inch in 
diameter. When the salad is dressed, smooth the surface, and cover it with a layer of mayonnaise. 
with jelly (No. 613), then let it get firm for half an hourina cold place, decorating it afterward with 
pieces of pickled cucumber and truffles. Surround the base with halved hard-boiled eggs, standing 
upright one against the other, after cutting off a quarter of their length on the round end, so as to 
enable them to stand erect against the salad. A row of small lettuce hearts cut in four, and 
simply salted, may be arranged above the eggs, and also fasten a lozenged cut of very red and thin 
beetroot over the cut end of the egg, on top of the yolks (Fig. 492). Instead of anegg border, one of 
jelly may be substituted, decorated with shrimp tails, hard-boiled eggs, crawfish and stoned olives. 


(2632), FROG SALAD (Salade de Grenouilles), 


Have one pound of very white medium-sized frogs, cooked ina little mushroom broth, and 
Seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and lemon juice; when cold cut the meats into three-eighths of 
an inch squares, and put them in a vessel with cooked artichoke bottoms, potatoes and hard-boiled 
eggs, all cut the same size as the frogs; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and macerate 
for fifteen to twenty minutes. Drain the salad on a sieve, return it to the vessel, and dress it with a 
consistent mayonnaise (No. 606), finished with mustard and chopped tarragon; arrange itin a salad 
bowl, smoothing the top toa dome. Split some lobster claw meat in two, season and form into a 


rosette in the center of the salad; decorate around with truffles and gherkins, having a lettuce heart. 
exactly in the middle. 


(2633), HERRING SALAD WITH POTATOES (Salade de Harengs et Pommes de Terre), 

Wash four salted herrings, soak them in milk for several hours, then drain and dry them. 
temove the fillets and cut them into half-inch squares; cut into three-eighths inch squares eight. 
ounces of cooked potatoes; add a four-ounce apple, peeled and cored, then minced very finely, half 





Ss 
_ 


COLD SERVICE. | 807 


a pound of roasted veal cut in quarter-inch squares, a four-ounce pickled beetroot cut in three- 
sixteenths inch squares, and four ounces of salt cucumbers cut equally into quarter-inch squares. 
Put into a salad bowl the potatoes, herrings, apples and veal; season with oil and’ vinegar, a little 
hot water or broth (No. 194a), salt, pepper, mustard and some chopped chives, all well mixed; 
snooth the surface with aknife and decorate it with anchovy fillets, pickled cucumbers, beets, 
«pers, pickled cherries and the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, chopped up very fine, also: 
some chopped parsley. 


(2634), IMPERIAL SALAD (Salade Impériale), 


Cut off some green asparagus tops one inch in length; cook them in salted waterin an untin- 
ned copper basin; drain and lay them in a bowl, seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Cut 
some cooked truffles into large Julienne the same length as the asparagus, season them the same, — 
and half an hour later lay them on top of a sieve to drain well, then add them to the asparagus 


_ and mingle them both with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), having a little mustard added. 


(2635), ITALIAN SALAD (Salade Italienne), 


Cook in salted water one pint of green peas, half a pint of string beans, half a pint of carrots 
and as much turnips, both of these pushed through a tin tube; they should be a quarter of an inch 
in diameter, and three-eighths of aninch long. First blanch the carrots and turnips, then cook them 
in broth (No. 194a) with salt and sugar, and when done drain and leave them to get cool. Put into 
a salad bowl the carrots, green peas, some green peppers, string beans, turnips and finely cut-up. 
chervil, tarragon, chives and finely chopped parsley; season with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, 
mixed well together. Cut some beets and potatoes in an eighth of an inch thick slices, remove 
some rounds from these with a vegetable cutter three-quarters of an inch in diameter, then season;. 
set the beetroots alternated with the potatoes around the base; near the top place a row of round 
slices of pickles half an inch in diameter; divide the height between the potatoes and the pickles 
with fillets of anchovies into six panels; in the center of these place a round slice of mortadelle and 
on the top lay some small channeled mushrooms (No. 118). 


(2636), JAPANESE SALAD (Galade Japonaise), 


Cook some peeled potatoes in broth (No. 194a), cut two pounds of them in slices while still warm, 
and season them with salt, pepper, olive oil, vinegar, also half a pint of white wine, some chervil, 
chives, tarragon, shallot, parsley and burnet, all finely and separately chopped up. Cook some 
mussels with minced onions, branches of celery, mignonette, but no salt, adding a little vinegar 
and water; set them on a good fire, toss them frequently, and when done so that they open take 
them from the shells and cut away their foot or black appendage. Put the potatoes into a bowl with 
one pound of the mussels, or else very small clams may be substituted, stir them up lightly, and 
dress in a salad bowl, covering the surface with slices of truffles cooked in champagne. Set the 
salad in a cold place for one hour, and when serving it mix in the truffles. 


(2637), LAMB SALAD A LA SOMER (Salade d’Agneau & Ja Somer). 


Cut slices of braised lamb a quarter of an inch in thickness; arrange on a deep dish in straight 
rows over a bed of sliced cooked potatoes. Decorate the whole with some anchovy and _ bloater 
fillets, slices of pickled gherkins, capers, small pickled onions, chopped chervil and chives, salt, 
pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard. Garnish the dish with hard-boiled eggs (Fig. 492) and lozenge- 
shaped pieces of beetroot, also a few tarragon leaves. Serve without stirring, so as to avoid break- 


ing the slices of meat. 


(2638). LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE (Salade de Homard ou de 
Langouste 4 l’Américaine), 


Cook two medium lobsters weighing three pounds each, let get cold, then break the shells and 
| claws, cutting it into five-eighth inch dice; season all with salt, 


remove the meat from the tails and cl 
Drain, and range them in @ 


pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard, and let macerate for half an hour. | 
salad bowl over a bed of white and well-seasoned lettuce leaves; dress It dome-shaped, and cover 
the surface with a firm and consistent mayonnaise (No. 606); decorate with the lobster claws, 

i i i aying on the extreme top a pretty 
hard-boiled eggs, olives, capers, beets and pickled cucumbers, laying p a pretty 


white lettuce head. 


808 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2639), MAZARIN SALAD (Qalade & la Mazarin), 


Boil in salted water two heads of celery knobs; let them get cold, then cut them up into fine 
slices, and with an inch diameter column tube (Fig. 168) remove all that it is possible to obtain, then 
range the pieces in a salad bowl. Cut the white ends of two celery stalks into pieces one and a half 
inches long, wash them well, and split them finely lengthwise; lay them in cold water for half an 
hour. Drain them off, and add to them the celery knob in the salad bowl, also eight ounces of 
cooked truffles cut into pieces the same size as the knobs. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
gar, and mix well by tossing them in the bowl in such a way as not to break the truffles. Pound 
four hard-boiled egg-yolks, rub them through a sieve, add to them a tablespoonful of mustard, 
half a pint of oil and a little vinegar; mix this in with the celery and truffles; range it in the 
bowl for the table, and sprinkle over some chopped chervil, chives and tarragon. 


(2640). MIRABEAU SALAD (Salade 4 la Mirabeaw), 


Have some shrimp tails, blanched oysters, truffles cooked in white wine, and potatoes baked in 
their skins, and cut into bits while hot, also the truffles. Season each article separately with salt, 
pepper, oil and vinegar; macerate them from fifteen to twenty minutes, then drain and mix them 
together in a bowl, and thicken with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and a little tarragon 
mustard. Dress the salad in a salad bowl, smooth the surface, and decorate the top with some 
shrimp tails and truffles kept aside for this purpose. 


(2641), NORWEGIAN SALAD (Salade 4 la Norvégienne), 


For this salad have one pound of salted anchovies (sardels), soak them in cold water for two 
‘hours, and then wipe them with a cloth to remove the white skin covering them; cut off the fillets, 
pare the ends either on one side or the other, and split them across in two. (Herrings may be used 
‘instead of anchovies.) Cut into quarter-inch squares some boiled potatoes, boiled celery root, 
boiled and pickled beetroot, raw russet apples, and roasted tenderloin of beef, having half a pound 
of each kind, also half a pound of minced cabbage blanched for fifteen minutes, and then drained 
and cooled; put all these into a bowl, season highly with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and mix 
together thoroughly. Range the pieces in a salad bowl, garnish the edge and inside of the 
bowl with a row of well-drained pickled oysters, about three dozen in all, and cover with a jellied 
‘mayonnaise (No, 613); inside of this row of oysters make another one of olives stuffed with anchovy 
butter (No. 569); divide the surface in quarters, and on one quarter lay choppec. hard-boiled egg-white, 
on the next quarter some finely chopped chervil and chives, the third quarter filled with 
hard-boiled egg-yolks, and the last quarter with chopped beetroot. Decorate the oysters 
with slightly blanched tarragon leaves dipped in jelly, and lay between each olive a thin slice of 
pickled cucumber, and stick in the center a finely pared bunch of white celery, previously laid in 
cold water to curl nicely. 


(2642), OYSTER SALAD (Salade d’Huitres), 


Half-fill a salad bowl with white and finely cut lettuce leaves; place on top some pickled 
oysters cut in two or three pieces, and cover with a layer of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Decorate 
the top with lobster coral, beetroot, pickled cucumbers, capers, hard-boiled eggs and small pickled 
oyster crabs, or else use young pepper grass, two inches long, and well washed. (This cress 
can be sown in pots and will grow during the whole season; the smaller the plant the better and 
stronger is the taste.) 


(2643), SALMON SALAD (Salade de Saumon), 


Cook some slices of salmon; when cold separate the meat in flakes. Mince some celery very 
fine, place it in a salad bowl with the salmon over it; season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, 
mixed in another vessel and thrown over it. Pour over some ravigote mayonnaise sauce (No. 612), 
decorate the top with tarragon leaves, lobster coral, quartered hard-boiled eggs and fanciful cut 
of truffles. 


(2644), PARISIAN SALAD (Salade Parisienne), 


Cut in quarter-inch squares some artichoke bottoms, beetroots and celeriac, boiled in 
water, and some cooked potatoes. Lay these vegetables in a bowl with a sliced, salted and pickled 
«ucumber; add some marinated tunny-fish, season and pour over some good sweet oil. Pass 





COLD SERVICE. 809 


through a sieve six cooked egg-yolks, beat them with a spoonful of olive oil, a tablespoonful of 
mustard and tarragon vinegar. Dress the vegetables, cover them with this sauce, and decorate the 
top with anchovies, olives, truffles, shrimp tails and a few fanciful cuts of red beef tongue. 


(2645), RUSSIAN SALAD (Salade Russe), 


Lay in a salad bowl two ounces of celeriac cut in fine Julienne, four ounces of boiled and 
cold potatoes, cut in quarter-inch squares, four ounces of artichoke bottoms, each one divided into 
sixteen pieces, four ounces of well-pared roast sirloin of beef, cut in quarter-inch squares, four 
ounces of string-beans cut lozenge-shaped, two ounces each of chicken, ham and tongue cut into 
three-sixteenths of an inch squares: season with salt, pepper and vinegar. Cover the whole 
with a highly seasoned mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), in which some mustard is mixed, and garnish 
all around the outer edge with cucumbers and gherkins cut in fine slices, alternating them, and 
having one overlapping the other, then toward the center decorate with another row of sliced 
truffles, inside of these a row of beetroot, inside a row of anchovies and capers, and in the center 
lay a fine lettuce heart. There may be arranged outside of the cucumbers, and upright against the 
salad bowl, a row of thin slices of sausage. 


(2646), RUSSIAN SALAD FOR LENTEN DINNERS (Salade Russe au Maigre), 


Have some small quarter-inch carrot balls, small sticks of turnips, both blanched and cookec 
separately in water with some butter, salt and sugar, green peas and lozenge-shaped string beans, 
both cooked in salted water. Lay these vegetables in a salad bowl in four distinct sections, cover 
them over with a mayonnaise (No. 606), highly seasoned, and set on top four groups, one composed 
of smoked salmon, one of fillets of sole, one of salt herring, and one of egg-white, all cut into 
quarter-inch dice. Decorate with fillets of anchovies, sliced pickled cucumbers, capers, olives, 
shrimps, beetroots and truffles, and in the middle set a fine lettuce heart. 


(2647). SHRIMP SALAD (Salade de Orevettes), 


Skin the shrimps, already cooked in unsalted water, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
gar, and serve them in a salad bowl on top of lettuce leaves, and sprinkle over some chopped 
parsley: lay a lettuce head on top, or, if preferred, when the shrimps are dressed, cover them with 
a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and instead of laying them in the salad bowl they may be set inside 
a border made as follows: Coat a border mold (Fig. 470) with some clear jelly (No. 108), decorate 
it through a cornet with lobster butter and Montpellier butter (No. 580), then fill it up with whipped 
jelly. Unmold and surround it with quartered hard-boiled eggs, and garnish the inside of the 
border with some seasoned lettuce; on top of this lay the seasoned shrimps in a pyramid, and 
sprinkle some chopped parsley over them; set on the summit a lettuce heart, and serve 4 
mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) separately. 


COOKED VEGETABLE SALADS (Salades de Légumes Cuits), 


(2648), CARDOON OR CELERY SALAD (Salade de Cardons ou de Céleri). 

Have one pound of cardoons, remove the stringy outside coat, and cut them into inch- 
long pieces, then cook them the same as cardoons with half-glaze (No. 2710). When done, 
drain and fry them in a pan with some oil, adding one clove of garlic, salt and sweet Spanish 
peppers, and halt a gill of vinegar. Let boil up only once, then lay the cardoons in a salad bowl, 
pour the liquid over, stir well and serve. 


(2649), OAULIFLOWER, MAYONNAISE SALAD (Salade de Choux-fleurs, Mayonnaise). 


Lay some fine, white, cooked, cold and seasoned cauliflower in a spherical-shaped mold; un- 
mold it over a salad bowl, and cover it entirely with a highly seasoned mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 
Garnish it around with slices of pickled beetroot and dredge over some fine herbs and capers. 


810 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2650), MACEDOINE SALAD (Salade Macédoine), 


Have four ounces of artichoke bottoms, four ounces of celery knob, four ounces of beetroot, four 
ounces of turnips all cut in quarter-inch squares, four ounces of string beans, cut lozenge-shaped, 
four ounces of asparagus tops and four ounces of green peas, all cooked separately in salted water, 
then refreshed, except the beetroots, which must be cooked whole and cut into squares afterward. 
Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and mix with a fine herb mayonnaise (No. 612). 


(2651) OKRA AND SWEET PEPPER SALAD (Salade de Gombo et de Piments Doux), 


Cut the ends and stalks from some tender, stringless okras; cook them in salted water, refresh 
and drain, then lay them in a salad-bowl. Throw some sweet peppers into hot fat, peel off the 
skins and cut them in Julienne, add them to the okras, and season with a fine herb mayonnaise 
(No. 612). 


(2652), POTATO AND BEETROOT SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre et Betteraves). 


Cut some cold boiled potatoes in three-sixteenths inch slices, also some cooked and pickled 
beetroots; remove twenty-four rounds from each of these, using a one-inch diameter vegetable cut- 
ter, and range them crown-shaped, one overlapping the other, intercalating the beets and the potatoes, 
both previously seasoned. Fill the hollow in the center with finely cut, seasoned lettuce, romaine 
or escarole, and cover with a layer of very thick mayonnaise (No. 606); decorate the summit with 
anchovy fillets and tarragon leaves; surround the border with quartered hard-boiled eggs. 


(2653). POTATO AND HERRING SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre et. de Harengs), 


Cut in three-eighths of an inch squares, four pounds of potatoes cooked in salted water, half 
a pound of sour apples cut in four, peeled and minced, eight medium-sized vinegar pickles also. 
minced, and four salted herrings boned and cut in three-eighths inch dice, previously unsalted in 
cold water. Put the potatoes into a bowl, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and 
when the seasoning is well mixed add the apples, pickles and herrings, a tablespoonful of finely 
chopped onion, and four spoonfuls of pickled beetroot cut in quarter-inch squares; mix all the 
ingredients thoroughly, then range the salad on a dish or in a salad bowl. 


(2654), HOT POTATO SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre Chaudes), 


Cook twenty potatoes, either in water or steam, leaving on their skins; drain as soon as done, 
peel and cut into slices; lay them in a bowl with two or three gills of boiling broth (No. 194a) 
poured over, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add two spoonfuls of finely chopped 
white onion. This salad can be served with roast veal, lamb or mutton. 


(2655). POTATO SALAD IN BORDER WITH TRUFFLES (Salade de Pommes de Terre en Bordure 
aux Truffes), 


For a plain potato salad put some fresh boiled and sliced potatoes into a bowl, season them 
with salt and pepper, oil, vinegar and chopped fine herbs. 


For a Bordered Salad with Truffles, have some carrots and turnips sliced one inch long by 
three-quarters wide; take out pieces with a three-eighth inch column tube, and put them to cook 
in salted water; when done drain them, and set on the center of each piece of carrot and turnip. 
one asparagus top an inch and three-quarters long; range them crown-shaped, intercalating the car- 
rots and turnips, and set some chopped jelly around. Garnish the center with the potato saladi 
aressed dome-shaped; cover the potatoes with round slices of truffle and then serve. 


(2656). OYSTER PLANT SALAD (Salade de Salsifis), 


Scrape two pounds of oyster plants, plunge them as soon as they are done in water acidulated: 
with vinegar, then cut into inch long pieces. Dilute two spoonfuls of flour with two quarts of 
water, add to it salt and the juice of a lemon, a medium-sized onion, a bunch of parsley garnished! 
with thyme and bay leaf; boil up the liquid, then put in the oyster plants, and let simmer until 
they are thoroughly cooked, then set them aside to drain and get cold, and cut each one into four 
pieces lengthwise. Range these in a salad bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, also 
some chopped parsley, and half an hour before serving cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). 





CORD SHR VICE, S1t 


(2657). STRING BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Verts), 


Have one pound of small string beans; if too large cut them lengthwise in two, and cook them 
in salted water in an untinned copper vessel; refresh them and drain. Put them into a salad bowl 
and season with salt and pepper, adding one tablespoonful of vinegar and three of oil. 


(2658), WHITE BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Blancs), 


| When the white beans are cooked the same as for No. 2701, and cold, put them in a salad 
bowl with a little shallot, chives and parsley, all finely chopped, and for each quart of beans add 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and six of oil, salt and pepper; stir well and serve. 


RAW VEGETABLE SALADS (Salades de Légumes Crus), 


(2659), CABBAGE SALAD—WHITE OR RED (Salade de Choux—Blancs ou Rouges). 


Have either a very fresh white or red cabbage; suppress the outer leaves, also the hard 
parts and core; mince it up finely, and lay it in a bowl, sprinkle over some salt, and let 
macerate for one hour, then drain off its liquid and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. A 
cabbage salad, called cold slaw, is made by shredding the cabbage as finely as possible and seasoning: 
it with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and tomato catsup. 


(2660), CELERY SALAD AND CELERY KNOB SALAD (Qalade de Céleri et Salade de Céleri Rave) 


Remove the first stalks, which are generally hollow, and put the good ones into a bowl of cold 
water; cut each stalk into pieces one inch and a half long, then divide these pieces into lengths 
the same as a large Julienne; wash well, drain and dry them thoroughly; season with salt, pepper, 
mustard, oil and vinegar. 

Celery Knob.—Choose these very tender, peel and cut them into thin round slices, set them in 
a bowl in layers, salting each one separately. One hour later pour off the water and season with 
oil, vinegar, ground pepper and mustard. Macerate for one hour in its seasoning, and then serve. 


(2661), CUCUMBER SALAD, ENGLISH STYLE (Salade de Concombres @ |’Anglaise), 

Select the tenderest cucumbers, peel off the rind, slice the interior finely, and lay them in a 
dish, sprinkle over some fine salt, and let macerate for fifteen minutes; season them, after strain- 
ing off the liquid, with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding some chopped parsley. 

English Style.—The same, only add a very finely minced onion. 


(2662), CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Ooncombres et Tomates). 
The same as for English style, only adding very firm, finely sliced and peeled tomatoes as well 
as the onion. 


(2663). EGGPLANT SALAD, PROVENQAL (Salade d’Aubergines Provengale), 


Peel and slice some eggplant into quarter of an inch thick slices, pare it in rounds one and a 
quarter inches in diameter, lay them in salt for ten minutes, then sponge them off and season with 
pepper, garlic, oil and vingear; then add the same quantity of water cress and a few hard-boiled 


eggs. 


(2664), GERMAN SALAD WITH CROUTONS (Salade Allemande aux Crotitons), 


Blanch in boiling water one pound of sauerkraut for five minutes, refresh and add to it one 
pound of red cabbage previously pickled in vinegar. Cut up the sauerkraut to make the pieces: 
shorter, and lay them in a bowl with three ounces of very fine chopped onions, blanched and 
refreshed; add to this one ounce of grated horseradish and a tablespoontul of chopped chervil. 
Season with salt, pepper, six tablespoonfuls of olive oil and two of vinegar, and serve in a salad 
bow] with a ring of round crofitons on top made of fragments of puff-paste (No. 146), one and a 
quarter inches thick, cut with a round pastry-cutter, then cooked in a very slack oven. 


812 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2665), ONION SALAD—BERMUDA (Salade d’Oignons de Bermude), 
Mince the onions very finely, either with a knife or the machine, and season them with salt, 
pepper, oil and vinegar. : 


(2666), TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Tomates), 


To peel tomatoes throw them into boiling water; cut them in slices across and season with 
salt, pepper, vinegar and a little oil; arrange them ina salad bowl. 


(2667), TRUFFLE SALAD A LA GAMBETTA (Salade de Truffes & la Gambetta), 


Mince six fine peeled Piedmontese truffles, weighing eight ounces, put them into a bowl with 
three artichoke bottoms, previously cooked and cut into eight pieces. Rub through a sieve four 
hard-boiled egg-yolks, lay them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of mustard, work well together, 
then incorporate three gills of oil and tarragon vinegar; rub the bottom of a salad bow! with. 
a clove of garlic, set the truffles in, and the artichokes over; cover all with some mayonnaise 
(No. 607), mixing in also some tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, all finely chopped. 


GREEN SALADS (Salades Vertes), 


(2668), CHICORY SALAD (Salade de Chicorée), 


Select the chicory heads; having yellow hearts and very fine leaves; cut away all the green 
and wash the white part, drain and shake well in a napkin or wire basket to remove all the 
water. Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chervil and tarragon, or, instead of these 
herbs use a piece of bread-crust after rubbing a clove of garlic over it. This piece of bread is 
‘called a capon. 


(2669), CORN SALAD OR LAMB'S LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Mache ou Doucette), 


This salad can be mixed with monk’s beard and slices of cooked beetroot. It should be well 
picked and all the yellow leaves removed; clean the roots, cut them off when too large, and divide 
the stalks into two or four parts; add cooked slices of beetroot and chopped chervil; season with 
‘salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Monk’s beard may be mixed with it, half and half. 


(2670). DANDELION SALAD (Salade de Dent-de-lion), 


This salad takes the place of wild chicory, especially in winter,-and by growing it in cellars 
it can be had very white and tender. Prepare and season it the same as monk’s beard (No. 2674). 


(2671), ESCAROLE AND ENDIVE SALAD (alade d’Escarolle et d’Endive), 


Take the leaves when quite yellow, remove the hard parts, and split each leaf in the center its 
entire length; it is always preferable not to wash these salads, as the leaves can be cleaned 
by wiping them. Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and finely chopped chervil and 
tarragon. 


(2672), LETTUCE SALAD, PLAIN (Galade de Laitue, Simple), 


Choose freshly gathered and well-filled lettuce heads, suppress the hard leaves, keeping only 
the yellow ones; pick them off the stalks, retaining the heart whole, the size of an egg, and cut it 
in four. Split each leaf through the center, wash them at once, drain, wipe and shake the salad 
well to extract all the water, then place it in a salad bowl, sprinkling over some chopped chervil 


and tarragon. Put into a bottle four egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of vinegar and eight of oil, some ~ 


salt and pepper; shake the seasoning up well in the bottle, and pour it over the lettuce, stirring it 
until it is properly mixed. ; 





COLD SERVICE. 813 


(2673), LETTUCE AND ANCHOVY SALAD (Salade de Laitue aux Anchois), 


This is made with well washed and dried lettuce by shredding it up finely; season and 
lay itin a salad bowl, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), decorated with fillets and an- 
chovies, hard-boiled yolks and whites of eggs, and some finely chopped herbs. <A lettuce salad. 
may be served garnished with hard-boiled eggs and plenty of herbs. Lettuce salad may also be 
seasoned with sweet or sour cream instead of oil. 


(2674) MONK’S BEARD SALAD (Salade de Barbe de Capucin), 


This salad is very much liked and is exceedingly wholesome. Clean it well by wiping the 
leaves with a towel—do not wash it; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding a few slices 
of beetroot. 


(2675). COS LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Romaine). 


Remove all the green leaves until the yellow ones are reached; wipe each leaf well, and split 
them lengthwise, then cut into two-inch long pieces, continuing as far as the heart; split it in four; 
place in a salad bowl and season the salad with chervil, tarragon, all finely cut, egg-yolks (one egg 
for two persons) and dilute with eight spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar; add salt, pepper and 
green mustard; mix well when ready to serve. The egg-yolks may be suppressed. 


(2676) WATER CRESS AND APPLE SALAD AND NONPAREIL [CHIFFONADE] SALAD: 
(Salade de Cresson aux Pommes d’Arbre et Salade Nonpareil [Chiffonade].) 
Have very clean and green water-cress; season it only when ready to serve with a very little 
oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and some sour apples cut in slices. Pepper water-cresses are prepared the 
same. 


Nonpareil (Chiffonade) Salad.—Place in the bottom of a bowl some seasoning composed of 
salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix well with a fork. Mince some lettuce very fine, also the same 
quantity of chicory and celery; dress dome-shaped in the bowl containing the seasoning. Chop up. 
separately the whites and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and cut in three-sixteenths of an inch 
squares the same volume of beets and potatoes. Divide the dome in four equal parts with anchovy 
fillets, garnish one of these parts with beets, one with the chopped egg-white, one with the chopped. 
yolks, and the last one with the chopped potatoes; bestrew over all finely chopped truffles, parsley, 
lobster coral, and in the center place a nice Spanish olive. 


A 


4S 4 


Fas 





VEGETA BLES (Légumes). 





(2677), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA FLORENCE (Fonds d’Artichauts & la Florence), 


Prepare and cook some artichoke bottoms the same as for la Villars (No. 2682); fill the hollow 
in the center with minced truffles and mushrooms fried in butter, this to be drained off and the 
preparation mingled with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); let get cold after they are filled 
dome form, and smooth neatly with a knife; then lay them on a buttered sheet, bestrew with bread- 
crumbs and grated parmesan, pour butter over and color in a hot oven. Dress them in a circle, 
filling the center with blanched artichoke bottoms, cut in six parts, pared and cooked in butter; 
pour over a buttered supréme sauce (No. 547) and send to the table. 


(2678), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA JUSSIENNE (Fonds @Artichauts & la Jussienne), 


Turn some artichoke bottoms the same as mushrooms (No. 118), rub them over with lemon and 
cook in a seasoned white stock (No. 182), to which add pieces of marrow; drain when well done. Mince 
afew mushrooms, cut them into strips and fry them in butter; drain off the latter and replace it by 
thick béchamel sauce (No. 409); cover the artichoke bottoms with this, mask over with allemande 
sauce (No. 407), reduced with a little jelly (No. 103), into which mix more mushrooms and chopped 
truffles; allow to cool; roll them in white bread-crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, again in bread-crumbs 
and fry toa fine golden color; drain, wipe and arrange them on a dish in a circle, having the center 
filled with sliced cooked sweet potatoes, cut three-eighths of an inch thick and one and a quarter 
inches in diameter. Serve separately a Colbert sauce (No. 451). 


(2679), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA MONTGLAS (Fonds d’Artichants & la Montglas), 


Have some artichoke bottoms prepared and cooked the same as for la Villars (No. 2682); drain 
and fill the hollow centers with a montglas garnishing cut in small sticks, composed of red beef 
tongue, truffles, mushrooms and some cooked white meat of a chicken; mingle them with a wel] 
reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), and remove from the fire at the first boil and leave till cold; 
then fill the artichoke bottoms, forming them bomb-shaped on top; cover with chicken quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89), smooth and strew bread-crumbs and grated parmesan over the entire surface. 
Range them on a small baking sheet, pour plenty of clarified butter over and finish cooking in a 


slack oven, basting frequently. 
(815) 


816 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2680). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA MORNAY (Fonds d’Artichauts & la Mornay). 


Wipe dry ten to twelve cooked artichoke bottoms, all of the same size; fill the hollow side with 
a foies-gras baking forcemeat (No. 81), mixed with a few spoonfuls of chopped cooked trufiles; 
smooth the top of the preparation and cover with a layer of well-reduced Mornay sauce (No. 
504); bestrew the sauce with parmesan cheese, and brown for two minutes under a salamander 
(Fig. 128). 


(2681), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA SOUBISE (Fonds d’Artichauts & la Soubise). 
Prepare a soubise purée (No. 723). Select some equal-sized cooked artichoke bottoms, drain 
and wipe them on a cloth; cover the hollow side with a part of the soubise purée (No. 723) and 
let it get cold, then over this lay a thin layer of delicate raw chicken quenelle»forcemeat (No. 89); 


besprinkle with bread-crumbs, and brush over with butter. Range these artichoke bottoms in a 


sautoir with some good gravy (No. 404), and heat them well while browning slightly. 


(2682). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA VILLARS (Fonds d’Artichants & la Villars), 


Procure twelve raw artichoke bottoms; when turned (Figs. 547-548) and pared blanch them in 
salted water and cook in white stock (No. 182), with aromatics and a little white wine, keeping them 
slightly firm; drain on a cloth and then cut out the bottom with a two and a quarter inch diameter 
tin cutter. Lay them in a sautoir, moisten with a little chicken bouillon (No. 188) and a small 
piece of butter. Reduce the liquid entirely. Mince some white onions, blanch them for a few 
minutes, fry them lightly in butter and moisten with broth (No. 194a) and cream, half of each, 
adding the same quantity of minced fresh mushrooms; reduce and leave to cool. Drain the 
artichoke bottoms, cover the hollow side with the preparation, and this with a layer of raw 
cream forcemeat (No. 75); strew over bread-crumbs and grated cheese, and lay them in a sautoir 
with a little stock (No. 194a); color in a moderate oven, and dress on a well-buttered reduced 
cream velouté sauce (No. 415). 


(2683), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS FRIED (Fonds d’Artichauts Frits), 


Pare off the bottoms of some young, tender and stringless artichokes; after cutting away the 


green part divide each one in four, remove the choke and cut the leaves at half an inch from the 
bottom; divide each quarter in four and throw them at once into a pan of water acidulated with 
vinegar; drain and lay them in a vessel with salt, pepper, oil and lemon juice. Prepare a frying 
paste with flour, diluted with water, adding a few egg-yolks anda little olive oil; whip the whites toa. 
stiff froth and beat them into the paste; dip each piece of artichoke into this and plunge them 
in hot frying fat; cook slowly, drain, wipe and salt over with salt; dress on a folded napkin with 
a bunch of parsley on top. 


(2684), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED—LEAN (Fonds d’Artichauts Farcis au Maigre) . 


Pare eight or ten raw artichoke bottoms, blanch them in salted water and cook them in a white 
stock (No. 182) with aromatic herbs and alittle white wine, keeping them rather hard, then drain 
them on acloth. Prepare a duxelle (No. 385) composed of chopped onions, shallots, truffles and 
mushrooms, mingled first with a little smooth cream frangipane panada (No. 120), then with a little 
sauce; season the preparation and finish it with some raw egg-yolks, chopped parsley and a few 
spoonfuls of salted anchovy fillets cut in small dice. With this forcemeat cover the artichoke 
bottoms, smooth and bestrew with bread-crumbs; range them in a small deep baking dish, capa- 


ble of being placed in the oven, and besprinkle lightly with oil; finish cooking in a slack oven, basting 
over. frequently. 


(2685). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH BAKED CAULIFLOWER (Fonds d’Artichauts aux Choux- 
Fleurs Gratinés), 


Have some artichoke bottoms cooked and prepared as for la Villars (No. 2682); drain and fill 
the hollow centers with flowerets of cauliflower; cover with béchamel sauce (No. 409), bestrew the 
top with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, baste over with butter, and range them at once on a. 
buttered baking sheet; bake in a moderate oven and dress ina circle on a dish; pour béchamel 
cream sauce (No, 411) in the center, or else a brown half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 





; 
4 
7 


VEGETABLES. | 817 


(2686), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH CREAM BECHA MEL, BAKED (Fonds d’Artichauts Béchamel 
a la Créme, au Gratin), 

Drain some cooked artichoke bottoms (Fig. 546-548) on a cloth, selecting those of equal size; fill 
the hollow in the center with a layer of delicate chicken godiveau (No. 82); cover this with cream 
béchamel sauce (No. 411) and besprinkle the surface with grated parmesan, pouring some butter: 
over. Range them at once in a sautoir, having its bottom covered with a little good gravy (No. 
404); baste over with more melted butter and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes; they 
should be of a nice color. Dress in a circle on a dish and pour some cream béchamel in the center. 


(2687), ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH MARROW (Fonds d’Artichauts & la Moelle), 

In case there be no fresh artichokes canned ones can be procured at any time of the year. 
Drain and range the cooked bottoms in a flat saucepan; moisten with a little good unskimmed 
stock (No. 194a) with white wine; heat them simply over a slow fire, but if too hard boil them until 
perfectly done. Soak two or three pieces of raw beef marrow, without the bone; wrap them up- 
in fine pieces of muslin and poach for a quarter of an hour in stock (No. 194a). Just when pre- 
pared to serve drain the artichoke bottoms carefully, wipe them on a towel, and drain the pieces. 
of marrow as well; unwrap these and let get partly cold; then cut them across in thick slices. 
and glaze them with a brush; keep them for a few moments at the oven door, then set one slice: 
in the hollow of each artichoke bottom; dress these on a dish, cover with a little brown sauce (No. 
414) reduced with Madeira wine, not having it too consistent. For garnishing artichoke bottoms, 
a macédoine of vegetables (No. 680) may be substituted for the marrow, or else green peas, Parisian 
style (No. 2745), with which mix a quarter as much cooked chicken, using only the white part cut. 
in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. 


(2688), ARTICHOKES QUARTERED ALA COLBERT, STUFFED ALA VILLEROI, FRIED AND 
BRAISED (Quartiers d’Artichauts 4 la Colbert, Farcis & la Villeroi, Frits et Fraisés), 

To prepare these artichokes the hard outside leaves must first be removed, the remaining’ 
ones shortened and the bottoms pared; then divide them in four, blanch in salted acidulated 
water until the choke detaches easily; throw them into cold water, drain and pare once more (see 
Fig. 545). They can be cooked in several ways, either sautéing in butter to finish the cooking, 
and adding just when ready to serve some meat glaze (No. 402), lemon juice, seasoning and 
chopped parsley. Or they can be cooked in a white stock (No. 182), and then served: in their 
natural state, either by filling the space between the leaves and the bottom with chicken quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89) that has had cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mingled in, then poached and coy- 
ered with Villeroi sauce (No. 560), breaded and fried. Those not stuffed may also be breaded a. 
la Villeroi and fried. They can also be braised in a sautoir lined with bards of fat pork; moisten 
with mirepoix stock (No. 419), and cover with more bards of fat pork. When done dress them in 
a vegetable dish, and have half of their stock skimmed and strained over; reduce the other half 
with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when well reduced fill some hollowed-out bread-crusts (No. 51) 
with blanched marrow; cover with a part of this last sauce, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(2689). ARTICHOKES—WHOLE—A LA BARIGOULE (Artichauts Entiers & la Barigoule), 
Pare eight medium-sized artichokes; suppress the hardest leaves from the bottom (Fig. 544) 





Fig. 545. Fie. 546. Fig. 548. 


and cut the upper ones off straight on the pointed end; empty out the inside, or more properly 
speaking the chokes (Fig. 543), wash thoroughly and drain well, turning them upside down so as to 


818 THE EPICUREAN. 


have no water left in the inside. Pour some oil in a pan; when very hot fry the tips of the 
artichoke leaves in it. Should the bottoms be thin, then lay another one inside, thus having two 
bottoms to one artichoke. To make the dressing, chop up half a pound of fresh fat pork with half 
a pound of butter; add three finely chopped small shallots, a spoonful and a half of chopped pars- 
ley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a pound of finely minced or chopped mushrooms, and a gill of Madeira 
wine. Have all these ingredients properly mingled, divide in eight parts, and fill the inside of 
the artichokes with them; cover with bards of fat pork, tie with two rows of string and lay them 
in a saucepan with slices of fat pork; on the bottom place carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley with 
thyme and bay leaf, moisten with half stock (No. 194a) and white wine; boil, skim and then cook in 
a moderate oven for one hour or longer, until the leaves detach. easily; drain the stock, skim and 
reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to haif-glaze, adding lemon juice. Untie the artichokes, 
suppress the fat pork and dress; cover lightly with a part of the sauce, serving the remainder sep- 
arately. 


(2690), ARTICHOKES—WHOLE—A LA RACHEL (Artichauts Entiers & la Rachel), 


These proportions are for six artichokes: Pare them by removing the hardest leaves next to the 
stalk, suppress the green bottom part and cut off the tip of each leaf straight; empty the inside by 
removing all the choke (Fig. 548), wash and drain well. Cut a medium-sized onion and one shallot into 
small squares, fry in butter and add one pound of fresh mushrooms chopped very finely; place the 
saucepan on the fire and keep stirring with a spoon until the mushrooms have their moisture re. 
duced, then add some chopped parsley and fresh bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg 
and pour in a little béchamel (No. 409). Fill the artichokes bomb-shaped with this and lay on 
top one fine turned or channeled mushroom (No. 118); cover with bards of fat pork, tie with two 
turns of string and braise in a low saucepan lined with pieces of fat pork, moistening with white 
wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); drain this off when done, skim the fat and reduce to a quarter- 
glaze. Dress the artichokes and pour a little of the stock over. Serve separately a velouté sauce 
(No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392), the rest of the stock and a little well-buttered 
tomato purée (No. 780); serve. 


(2691), ARTICHOKES—WHOLE—BOILED, WITH WHITE OR VINAIGRETTE SAUCE (Artichauts 
Entiers Bouillis, & la Sauce Blanche ou a la Vinaigrette), 

Select artichokes of a medium size; remove the hardest leaves from the base, pare vine 
bottoms well, suppressing all the green part, then cut off the tips of each leaf straight (see Fig. 
543). Put them into a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook until the leaves detach, then drain, 
remove the choke, and washing them in their own liquor range them on a napkin bottom downward 
to have them drain thoroughly; serve at the same time either a white sauce (No. 562) or else a 
vinaigrette sauce (No. 684). 

Boiled and cold artichokes are served with a vinaigrette sauce. 


(2692). BOILED ASPARAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE, HOLLANDAISE MOUSSELINE OR 
VINAIGRETTE SAUCE (Asperges Bouillies & la Sauce Hollandaise 4 la Sauce Hollandaise 
Mousseline), 

Have the asparagus freshly picked, if practicable; trim the tops, and scrape or peel the stalks; 
then pare them into equal lengths, and tie them in small bunches, separating the larger ones from 
the smaller. Fasten them well with string. Boil the asparagus in plenty of salted water in an 
untinned copper basin, plunging them into the liquid; cover the vessel and let cook slowly. As 
soon as they are done drain them on a sieve, and afterward untie the bunches on a cloth and dress 
them symmetrically in a pyramid on a folded napkin; carefully reserve the handsomest ones for the 
top. Send to the table at the same time a good Hollandaise sauce (No. 477), or else a vinaigrette sauce. 


Vinaigrette.—Put into a vessel six hard-boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve, smooth 


nicely while beating with a spoon, and incorporate slowly two gills of good oil, two spoonfuls of 
cold velouté sauce (No. 415), a little vinegar, mustard, pepper, chopped parsley or chervil. Serve 


this sauce the same time as the asparagus, or else serve them with a Hollandaise mousseline sauce 


(No. 477). 


(2693), ASPARAGUS, COUNTESS STYLE—HEADS (Tétes d’Asperges & la Comtesse), 


Scrape some green asparagus, cut them, leaving the tops two and a half inches long, and tie 
these into small bunches; cook in salted water, and when done cut off the strings and dress them 
in a pyramid; garnish around with bouchées filled with asparagus tops and mushrooms as follows: 
After the asparagus is cut off for the above break the remaining tender parts of the stalks, and 





VEGETABLES. 819 


cut them into quarter of an inch thick pieces; cook in salted water, and drain; put these into a 
saucepan with as much cooked mushrooms cut into quarter-inch squares, and dilute with good 
buttered velouté (No. 415); season properly, and fill very hot bouchées (No. 11) with it. Servea 
velouté sauce apart, having it thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks, cream, a liberal ‘piece 
_of fresh butter and lemon juice. 


(2694), ASPARAGUS IN SMALL BUNCHES—HEADS (Tétes d’Asperges en Petites Bottes), 


Serape the stalks of some medium-sized asparagus; cut them from the top end into two and a 
half inch lengths, and with these form small bunches, holding them together by two rings cut from 
a carrot about two inches in diameter; cook them in salted water. Use these small bunches for 
garnishing hot or cold removes, pouring a little Hollandaise sauce (No. 477) over, or else a vinai- 
grette sauce (No. 634), both to be well seasoned. 


(2695), ASPARAGUS TOPS A LA MAINTENON (Pointes d’Asperges & la Maintenon), 


Have all the asparagus of the same size, not too slender; break off the stalks at the beginning 
of the tender part; strip off the heads, and cut the tender part into inch lengths; put the 
heads aside to cook separately. Plunge the lengths into boiling salted water placed in an untinned 
copper pan; boil quickly, keeping them slightly hard, then wipe on a cloth, and put them into a 
thin sautoir with melted butter; season, heat rapidly while tossing, then remove. The asparagus 
can now be laid in a little velouté (No. 415) and chicken purée (No. 713). Serve the aspara- 
gus in a vegetable dish, surrounded with crofitons of bread shaped like a cock’s-comb, and fried in 
butter, just when prepared to dish up. . 


(2696), ASPARAGUS TOPS FRIED A LA MIRANDA (Pointes d’Asperges Frites & la Miranda), 


Bend and break off the tender part of the asparagus into one inch lengths; blanch 
them well in salted water; drain and dip in fine cracker dust, then in beaten egg, and finally in 
bread-crumbs; fry, drain, salt, and dress on a folded napkin, laying a bunch of fried green parsley 
on top. Serve apart a sauce made with one hard-boiled egg-yolk mingled with one raw yolk, mus- 
tard, salt and pepper; beat vigorously, stirring in a little olive oil and tarragon vinegar. 


(2697), ASPARAGUS TOPS WITH CHEESE (Pointes d’Asperges au Fromage), 

Scrape some medium-sized asparagus; cut them into quarter of an inch lengths, cook in salted 
water, keeping them slightly hard, drain and put them into a sautoir with butter, and toss for 
a few moments over the fire to evaporate all the moisture. Drain off the butter, season and dress 
on a vegetable dish; cover the surface with freshly kneaded butter, into which mix as much 
grated parmesan as the butter can absorb; salt, if found necessary, adding a little cayenne pepper; 
push into a hot oven, and serve as soon as it browns. 


(2698), FRESH BEANS, WITH CREAM AND ENGLISH STYLE (Féves Fraiches 4 la Créme et @ 
l’ Anglaise.) 

Take freshly picked, shelled and tender beans; put them to blanch in salted water with a small 
bunch of savory added, then transfer them to a saucepan with hot butter; season, Fry them for 
two minutes on a hot fire to evaporate their moisture and thicken with a few spoonfuls of 
reduced béchamel (No. 409); remove from the fire and stir ina large piece of butter divided in 
small pats; finish with a little nutmug and serve with puff-paste crotitons around. 

English Style.—Blanch some fresh green beans in salted water until the skin detaches easily, 
then let get cold and suppress these skins; sauté the beans in butter, season with salt, nutmeg 
and finely cut-up fresh savory. Transfer them to a vegetable dish and serve with thin slices of 


butter laid on top. 


(2699), LIMA OR KIDNEY BEANS, MAITRE D’HOTEL (Haricots de Lima ou Flageolets Maitre 
d’Hotel), . 

Have a pound of medium-sized, freshly picked lima beans; boil them in salted water in an 

untinned copper saucepan, then drain. Put four ounces of butter in a sautoir, heat it well, add 

the beans and sauté, seasoning with salt and chopped parsley; stir in a little velouté sauce (No. 


415) and fresh butter, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, then serve. 


820 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2700), RED BEANS, SMOTHERED (Haricots Rouges a VFtuvée), 


Steep a pound of red beans for six hours in cold water, drain, put them into a saucepan and 
moisten to double their height with cold water; add half a pound of blanched bacon, a carrot cut 
in four, anda bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the beans are three- 
quarters done, take out the carrots and herbs and put in one pound of small onions fried in 
clarified butter, also a pint of red wine; continue to boil until thoroughly done, then drain, and 
put them back into a sautoir and thicken with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), seasoning with 
salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Dress the beans and surround them with the bacon cut up in 
slices. The red beans may be replaced by white or black beans. 


(2701) WHITE BEANS, THICKENED MAITRE D'HOTEL AND BRETONNE (Haricots Blancs 
Maitre d’Hotel Liée et Bretonne), 


Put a pound of dry white beans to soak in cold water for six hours; place them in a saucepan 
and cover to three times above their height with cold water; set this on the fire and with- 
draw the saucepan to the side of the range at the first boil; add toit two ounces of butter, let cook, 
and when they crush easily under the pressure of the finger drain and transfer to another sauce- 
pan; season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg; add a little thickened maitre 
d’hotel butter and chopped parsley. 


Bretonne.—Add chopped onions, cooked colorless in butter, to the above, and instead of the 
maitre d’hoétel butter substitute espagnole sauce (No. 414), finishing with chopped parsley. 


(2702), BEETROOT FRITTERS A LA DICKENS; BEETROOTS WITH BUTTER AND FINE HERBS 
AND BEETROOTS WITH CREAM (Beignets de Betteraves 4 la Dickens; Betteraves au Beurre 
et fines Herbes et Betteraves & la Oréme), 


Cut some beetroots cooked as below in slices, each one an eighth of an inch thick; wipe dry 
and place on half of them a quarter of an inch thick layer of the following preparation: Fry two 
well-chopped onions colorless in butter; add four ounces of chopped mushrooms and a pinch of 
minced chervil, salt and pepper; on this layer place another round of beetroot, and from the whole 
remove rounds an inch and a half in diameter; div these in frying batter (No. 137) and plunge into 
very hot frying fat, drain, wipe and dress as a garnishing around a meat remove. 


With Butter and Fine Herbs. —These beets can be cooked in boiling water or by steam with- 
out suppressing the stalk or root end; select them always of a fine red; peel after they are done and 
cut them up into quarter-inch thick slices and from these remove rounds two to two and a half 
inches in diameter; lay them in saucepan with salt, pepper and a little vinegar; sauté for a few 
moments and serve; chopped parsley and chives can be scattered over the top. 


With Cream.—After the beetroots are cooked and cut into slices, as above, simmer them in 
fresh cream, seasoning with salt, cayenne pepper and nutmeg; thicken just when ready to serve 
with egg-yolks and fresh butter. 


(2703), BRUSSELS SPROUTS A LA BARONESS (Choux de Bruxelles 4 la Baronne), 


, Clean, prepare and cook the sprouts the same as for sautéd (No. 2704); the only difference to 
be observed is that instead of boiling them entirely have them only three-quarters cooked. Put 
them into a saucepan with as many chestnuts also three-quarters cooked; moisten with fresh 
cream, season with salt and nutmeg, and let simmer together until done and the liquid suffi- 
ciently reduced. 


(2704), BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTED (Choux de Bruxelles Sautés), 


Select three pounds of the freshest and firmest Brussels sprouts, having them of as uniform 
size as possible; pare and plunge them into an untinned vessel full of boiling water to cook 
green; when done drain, refresh in cold water, drain once more, wipe and pare again. Put six 
ounces of butter into a sautoir and when hot add the sprouts; season with salt and shake them in 


the butter; sprinkle in some chopped parsley, and if so desired they can be mingled with a little 
velouté sauce (No. 415). 





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VEGETABLES. 821 


(2705). CABBAGE IN BALLOTINES--STUFFED (Choux Farcis en Ballotines), 


Cut each of two clean cabbages in half, plunge them into boiling salted water and boil for 
fifteen minutes; then drain, refresh and press out all the water. Dampen some pieces of linen six 
by five inches; lay over each a thin slice of fat pork four by three inches, and on this spread a 
blanched cabbage leaf, mincing the heart-leaves up finely. Fry in lard four ounces of finely 
chopped onion, and one pound of chopped mushrooms; when the moisture has been evaporated from 
the latter add the minced cabbage, season with salt and pepper, then add half a pound of cooked 
sausage meat, and half a pound of boiled rice; thicken this preparation witha few raw egg-yolks and 
range it in the center of the spread-out leaves; roll each one in the shape of a sausage, then in the 
bards of fat pork, and lastly in the linen; tie both ends the same as a boned turkey. Lay them 
in a sautoir, cover with more slices of fat pork, and pour in some unskimmed broth (No. 194a), 
then let cook for two hours; free the stock from fat, strain it through a sieve and reduce it with as 
much espagnole sauce (No. 414). Unwrap the ballotines, remove the pork and dress them in the 
center of a dish, covering over with a third part of the sauce, and serving the remainder in a 


- sauce-boat. 


(2706), OABBAGE, PEASANT STYLE (Choux & la Paysanne), 


Parboil half a cabbage for fifteen minutes, remove the core, drain and braise; when well done 
drain once more and suppress the hard parts; mash the remainder with a spoon, seasoning with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg. Have a linen bag two and a quarter inches in diameter; fill it with the 
seasoned cabbage and tie it firmly, pressing it down tight; lay this under a weight to get thoroughly 
cold, then cut it into even slices: remove the pieces of linen and dip each slice in beaten egg and 
then in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter and dress in a circle. To fill the center chop up 
finely the other half of the cabbage, after blanching it for ten minutes and draining very dry; put 
it into a saucepan with fresh butter, and fry colorless; season, moisten with broth (No. 194a), and 
let simmer until thoroughly done and the liquid reduced, then drain off the fat and thicken with a 
little velouté sauce (No. 415) and fresh butter; lay this inside the circle as described above. 


(2707). RED CABBAGE A LA MONTARGIS (Choux Rouges & la Montargis), 

Divide two red cabbages in four pieces, remove the core and the hard stalks from the leaves; 
mince finely, wash and drain. Place in a saucepan half a pound of butter, and half a pound of 
bacon cut in quarter-inch squares; first blanch them, then let fry in the butter, and add the cab- 
bage, salt, pepper and nutmeg; moisten with a pint of broth (No, 194a) and a gill of brandy. Have 
six sour apples, peel, round and core them with a tin tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter; lay 
them in with the cabbage, and cover the top with a buttered paper; cook in a slow oven for twe 
hours and a half. Just when ready to serve remove the fat and dress the cabbage in the center 


of a dish with the apples around, arranging a small Chipolata sausage (No. 754) between each one. 


(2708), KOHL-RABIES, HOUSEKEBPER’S STYLE (Choux Raves & la Ménagire), 


Cut some medium-sized kohl-rabies in four equal parts, or if very large, then in six or 
eight; peel and pare them into crescent olive form, obtaining about three pounds in all. Blanch 
these in boiling salted water, refresh and drain once more. Put six ounces of butter into a sauce- 
pan and when very hot and cooked to hazel-nut (No. 567) lay in the blanched kohl-rabies and 
toss them so they do not color; moisten with broth (No. 194a), let cook, reduce to a glaze and when 
serving dilute with a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), also adding three ounces of fresh butter, a 


very small lump at a time. 


(2709), KOHL-RABIES, STUFFED (Choux Raves Farcis), 


all of uniform size; empty out the insides and stuff them while 


Shape them perfectly round and 
the stuffing consists of 


raw, or else blanch them first in boiling salted water for a few moments; 
godiveau forcemeat (No. 85), having truffles, mushrooms and parsley, all chopped up, mixed in with 
it; range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404); when 
done drain and strain the stock, remove all of its fat and reduce it with as much espagnole sauce 


(No. 414). Lay the kohl-rabies over the sauce and serve. 


822 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2710), CARDOONS WITH HALF-GLAZE (Cardons 4 la Demi-glace), 


Remove the large strings from a head of cardoon; cut the tenderest parts into four-inch 
lengths and throw them at once into cold acidulated water, then plunge them into boiling water, 
also acidulated with citric acid or vinegar; blanch until the downy skin detaches, rubbing with a 
cloth and drain to plunge at once into an abundance of cold water. Pare the cardoon, suppressing 
the superficial threads, and range them in a saucepan lined with fat pork; cover with more pork and 
moisten with unskimmed broth (No. 194a) mixed with a little white wine; add the cut-up pulp of a. 
lemon, salt and aromatics, cover the saucepan and finish cooking very slowly. At the last moment. 
drain them on a tammy, then on a cloth and cut them up into even lengths to dress in a pyramid. 
on a dish, covering over with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira wine. 

Cardoons may be covered with a velouté sauce (No. 415) or else a brown sauce (No. 414),. 
having some poached marrow cut into large dice added. 


(2711), CARROTS, COLBERT (Carottes 4 la Colbert), 


Take a few dozen small, new carrots of uniform-size, trim them pear-shaped, blaneh for a. - 
few moments in salted water, drain and lay them in a saucepan with a little butter, salt, a pinch 
of sugar and white broth (No. 194a); cook until they fall to a glaze, and should they then not be. 
sufficiently tender, remoisten and reduce the liquid once more; finish with a little half-glaze sauce: 
(No. 413), butter and lemon juice. 


(2712), CARROTS GLAZED OR WITH FINE HERBS (Carottes Glacées ou aux Fines Herbes). 


Turn or cut out with a spoon (Fig. 91) some carrots, shaping them to resemble olives; blanch,, 
then sauté in butter with a little sugar; moisten with broth (No. 194a).and cook slowly until’ 
reduced to a glaze, and the moistening reduced the same, in the meanwhile having the carrots done;. 
add a little root glaze (No. 403) and then dish up in a pyramid. 

For Fine Herbs add to the carrots prepared as for the above some chopped parsley and finely 
cut-up chives. 


(2713), CARROTS, VIENNESE STYLE (Carottes 4 la Viennaise), 


Scrape some large carrots and cut them up into balls with a vegetable spoon five-eighths of am 
inch in diameter; blanch them in salted water until half done, then drain, place them in a sauce- 
pan with white broth (No. 194a), salt and a very little sugar; finish cooking, letting the liquid falk 
to a glaze, and just when ready to serve thicken with a little well-buttered velouté sauce (No. 415), 
to which add lemon juice, fine herbs and meat glaze (No. 402). 


(2714), CARROTS WITH CREAM (Carottes 4 la Oréme), 


Cut some carrots into inch lengths; from the red parts remove cylindricals with a round 
vegetable cutter five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter; blanch until half done, then drain and sauté: 
in butter with a little sugar; moisten with white broth (No. 194a) and put on to cook; when ready’ 
to serve boil with cream and thicken with egg-yolks and fresh butter. 


(2715), STUFFED CAULIFLOWER A LA BECHAMEL—BAKED (Choux-fleurs Farcis & la Béchamel 
au Gratin), 

Prepare, cook and drain the cauliflower the same as for fried bread-crumbs (No. 2718); scoop. 
out the hearts and fill them with veal godiveau (No. 85), into which mix parsley and chives, both 
finely chopped. Place the cauliflower stalk downward on a buttered dish and cover over with. 
allemande sauce (No. 407), into which mix half as much cooked herbs (No. 385). Strew the top. 
with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, pour butter over and push into a moderate oven for ten 
minutes; baste at frequent intervals and color the cauliflower; remove and decorate around with 
heart-shaped crofitons fried in butter, then serve. 


(2716), CAULIFLOWER A LA VILLEROI, FRIED AND SAUTED WITH FINE HERBS 
(Choux-fleurs 4 la Villeroi, Frits et Sautés aux Fines Herbes), 


Ala Villerot.—This is to be cooked and drained the same as for white sauce (No. 2'719),, 
then covered with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407) into which mingle chopped-up fresh 





VEGETABLES. 393 


mushrooms and chopped parsley; when thoroughly cold immerse in beaten eggs, then in bread- 
crumbs, smooth the breading and fry it a golden color; drain, salt and dress on a folded napkin, 
laying a bunch of fried parsley on top. | 


Fried.—Have the cauliflowers cooked and well drained, then dip each piece in beaten eggs, rolli 
in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. 


Sautéd with Fine Herbs.—After the cauliflowers are boiled and drained the same as for the 
above, divide in flowerets and sauté in butter, seasoning with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. 


(2717), OAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE—BAKED (Choux-fleurs au Fromage Gratinés), 


Suppress the hard parts from some cauliflowers, divide in small flowerets and cook in salted 
water. When they are tender and drained range them in layers in a vegetable dish with a little 
reduced béchamel (No. 409); bestrew with grated parmesan and pour over some butter; give them 
a dome shape and cover with a layer of thick béchamel, finished with grated parmesan arid butter; 
dredge evenly with more parmesan and color nicely in the oven for twelve minutes. 


(2718). CAULIFLOWERS WITH FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS (Choux-fleurs 3 la Mie de Pain Frite), 


Divide some cauliflowers into separate flowerets all of uniform size; pare the stalks to a point, 
wash and drop them into a saucepanful of hot water, then boil the liquid very slowly. When the 
pieces are three-quarters cooked salt the water and withdraw the saucepan to allow them to finish 
cooking much slower; in this way they remain firmer; drain, dress the cauliflowers and cover over 
with butter having fried bread-crumbs added to it. 


(2719), CAULIFLOWERS, BROCCOLI, OR SEA KALE, WITH WHITE, BUTTER OR CREAM 
SAUCE (Choux-fleurs, Brocolis et Choux de Mer & la Sauce Blanche, au Beurre & la Creme), 


For serving whole with sauces the cauliflowers should be chosen very white and close; cut off ° 
the bottom of the stalks, clean the inner parts well, removing the outer peel and leaves covering 
the stalk, then lay them in a well-tinned and very clean saucepan containing hot water and a 
little butter; remove to the side of the range to cook slowly until three-quarters done, then salt the 
water and finish cooking. Dress on a folded napkin, the stalk end downward, and serve apart 
either a white sauce (No. 562), a butter sauce (No. 440), or a cream sauce (No. 454). 

Broccoli, a long-stalked cauliflower, can be prepared the same way, also sea kale; the 
only difference to be observed is that these must be served with slices of toast, buttered with fresh. 
butter. 


(2720), CELERY WITH BECHAMEL AND OROUTONS (Oéleri Béchamel aux Crotitons), 


Cut into large squares, each one inch in size, the yellow stalks of a head of celery; blancli 
them in water, drain and place in a saucepan with a quart of white broth (No. 194a), an ounce of 
butter and a coffeespoonful of powdered sugar; cook so that the liquid reduces, and when the celery 
is done add to it a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), some grated nutmeg and salt. Just when 
serving incorporate two ounces of fresh butter; pour into a vegetable dish and garnish around 
with bread crofitons shaped like small hearts (Fig. 40) and fried in butter. 


(2721), CELERY STALKS WITH HALF-GLAZE, ESPAGNOLE AND MARROW, OR VELOUTE: 
SAUCE (Pieds de Oéleri 41a Demi-glace & la Sauce Espagnole a la Moelle ou au Velouté, 
Suppress the outer hard stalks from eight or ten tender, but not too large celery heads; cut the: 
remainder into four or five-inch lengths and pare the roots to a point. Wash them carefully and 
blanch for twenty minutes; refresh and range them in a saucepan to cover with unskimmed. 
broth (No. 194a); lay a buttered paper or a thin slice of fat pork on the top and cook very slowly. 
Drain, wipe well, pare and dress them on a dish; mask over entirely with a half-glaze sauce (No. 
413) reduced with Madeira wine, or else an espagnole sauce (No. 414) with marrow, or a velouté 
sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) and buttered when ready to serve. 


(2722), OBLERIAG MIRABEAU OR A LA VILLEROI (Oéleri-rave Mirabeau ou 4 la Villeroi), 
Mirabeau.—Peel the celeriac, cut them either into balls with a large vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) 
or in the shape of cloves or crescents; blanch in salted water, drain and place in a deep buttered 
sautoir; cover with broth (No. 194a) and finish cooking while glazing; dress and pour over some 
Mirabeau sauce (No. 500). 


824 THE EPICUREAN. 


A la Villerot.—Cut the celeriac into four pieces; pare them like cloves of garlic, having one 
sound in all; blanch in salted water, drain, place in a saucepan, adding half a pint of stock (No. 


194a), and a little sugar; cook, drain once more, and when cold cover over with a Villeroi sauce — 
(No. 560) witb mushrooms and chopped parsley; lay on a baking sheet to cool, after which pare off — 


the surplus sauce, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry toa fine color; dress on a folded 
napkin, with a bunch of parsley leaves on top. 


(2723), CBPES, PROVENGAL STYLE (Gépes & la Provencale), 


Wash and wipe some cépes heads after suppressing the stalks; split them in two through their 
thickness and fry in oil over a brisk fire, with some chopped onions, a clove of garlic and bay leaf, 
seasoning with salt and pepper. When their moisture has been reduced add a little reduced es- 
pagnole sauce (No. 414) and tomato sauce (No. 549); boil up once or twice and finish with chopped 
parsley and lemon juice. Take out the garlic and bayleaf, dish them up and surround with crotitons 
of bread (No. 51), fried in oil. 


(2724), OEPES BAKED WITH CREAM (Cépes Gratinés & la Créme), 


Suppress the stalks from some clean cépes; divide the heads and salt over, flour them briskly 
and put them into a sautoir with hot butter, moisten with a little good raw cream, adding chopped 
onions and parsley and a bunch of fennel; finish cooking very slowly while covered for three-quar- 


ters of an hour, then remove with a skimmer, lay them in a bowl, and thicken the gravy with some 


good béchamel sauce (No. 409); let this reduce without ceasing to stir and when the sauce becomes 
succulent add to it the cépes and let cook for two minutes. Pour the stew into a vegetable dish, 
bestrew with bread-crumbs and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve the ceépes in this same 
“dish. 


(2725), OEPES MINCED IN CROUSTADES (Cépes Emincés en Croustades). 


Trim some bread crotitons into ovals three inches long by two inches wide and half an inch 
thick; slit them all around an eighth of an inch from the edges and fry in clarified butter; re- 
move the tops and empty them completely. Peel some cepes, cut them in two through their thick- 
ness, salt over and leave them for twenty minutes, then mince them finely and fry in butter; drain 
this off and transfer them to a saucepan, adding some sour cream; finish cooking, then mingle in a 
little bechamel sauce (No. 409) and meat glaze (No. 402); add a small bit of finely cut-up green 
fennel and fill the croustades with this preparation; serve at once, very hot. 


(2726), OBPES STUFFED (apes Farcis). 


Choose cépes of even size one inch and three-quarters to two inches in diameter, firm and 
fresh; remove the stalks and scoop out the heads from the stalk end with a vegetable spoon 
(Fig. 91), then peel and salt over; chop up the stalks and parings, mix with them some fat 
pork and cooked ham, both chopped, bread-crumb panada (No. 121), chopped parsley with a clove 
of garlic, a few raw egg-yolks, salt and pepper. A quarter of an hour after fill the hollow spaces 
with the prepared dressing and strew with bread-crumbs; range them in a sautoir, pour over 
butter or oil and cook very slowly for one hour in a slack oven, while covered; serve with their 
own stock, thickened with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) or bechamel sauce (No. 409). 


(2727), CHESTNUTS WITH GRAVY (Marrons au Jus), 


Remove the shells from several dozen large chestnuts, then scald so to be able to peel off the red 
skins; put them into a buttered flat saucepan, salt and moisten to their height with good broth 
(No. 194a); boil the liquid and withdraw the saucepan to a slower fire to have the chestnuts 


cook while remaining whole. When tender the moisture should be entirely reduced; glaze with 
a brush before serving. 






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4 


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VEGETABLES. © 825 


(2728), CHICORY TIMBALES (Timbales de Chicorée), 


Have some chicory prepared the same as for cream (No. 2729), strain it through a sieve; put 
one pound of this into a saucepan with four ounces of finely chopped cooked mushrooms, seasoning 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix in singly four whole eggs, two yolks and lastly a gill of cream. 
Decorate some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), or a larger one, with fanciful cuts of truffles and 
tongue; fill these with the preparation and lay them in a sautoir on the fire; pour in boiling water 
to reach to half their height, boil and finish poaching in a slack oven; unmold and serve separately 
a Hungarian sauce (No. 479). 


(2729), CHICORY WITH CREAM (Chicorée & la Créme), 
Pick eight chicory heads, suppress all the green leaves, wash well, and cut the bottoms into a 
cross; piunge into boiling salted water, and let cook for twenty-five to thirty minutes; refresh, 
drain, press out all the moisture, and pick over carefully to remove any small straws or other 


hla “impurities that may be found among the leaves, then chop upfinely. Heat some butter ina sauce- 


pan, put in the chicory, and dry it over a brisk fire for ten minutes without ceasing to stir; add a 
heaping tablespoonful of flour, some salt, nutmeg, sugar and rich cream; when very hot and ready 
to serve incorporate four ounces of fresh butter. If to be served as a vegetable pour it into 
a vegetable dish, and surround with bread crofitons (No. 51) fried in butter. 


(2730). CORN ON THE COB—BOILED (Mais Bouilli en Tige), 


Select white and close-grained corn; open the husks without tearing, and remove the silk found 
between these and the corn; brush over,.and close up the husks, tying them at the ends, or remove 
them entirely from the! stalk end, either way being optional, then cut the stalks off straight at 
both ends. Boil them in water, to which add a quarter as much milk and salt. They take about 
twenty to twenty-five minutes to cook. Dress in a napkin, serving butter at the same time. 


(2731), CORN CUT UP, SUCCOTASH AND CORN PANCAKES (Mais Coupé, “ Succotash,” et Crépes 
de Mais), 


Cut-wp Corn.—Boil the corn without the leaves the same as for on the cob (No. 2730); split 
the grains with a knife through the center their entire length; press down forcibly with the back 
of a knife to extract all'the inside parts without the skin; season in a pan with salt, pepper and 
fresh butter; toss well, and serve very hot in a vegetable dish, 

Succotash.—Use corn that has been cut the same as in the preceding paragraph, having as much 
lima beans or string beans. Sauté both corn and beans together in butter, adding salt and pepper. 
The-succotash can be thickened with a little velouté sauce (No. 415), or béchamel sauce (No. 409). 

Corn Pancakes.—The same preparation as for ordinary unsweetened pancakes, mixing in as 
much cut-up and chopped corn. Make pancakes a quarter of an inch thick; color well, and serve 
them very hot. 


(2732), CUCUMBERS FRIED, BREADED ENGLISH STYLE AND FRIED A LA VILLEROI (on- 
combres Frits, Panés & l’Anglaise et Frits & la Villeroi), 


Fried.—Cut some peeled cucumbers in slices a quarter of an inch thick by one and three-quarters 
inches in diameter; empty out the center seed parts with a three-quarter inch diameter tube; salt 
over for fifteen minutes, then drain, wipe, dip them in flour, and fry to a fine golden color in very 
hot frying fat. 

Fried Breaded English Style.--Cut the cucumbers in two-inch lengths and then once across 
in the center; peel, remove the inner seeds, round the corners, and cook them in salted water. 
Drain, wipe, immerse in beaten eggs, bread-crumb English style, and fry to a nice color, having 
fennel sauce (No. 463), served apart. 

Fried & la Villeroi.—Prepare and cook the cucumbers the same as the glazed ones (No. 2733), 
and cover with cold Villeroi sauce (No. 560); place on a baking sheet to cool; take them up with a 
thin knife; dip each piece in egg and bread-crumbs, fry to a good color, and dress on a folded 


napkin. 


826 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2733), CUCUMBERS GLAZED (Concombres Glacés), 


Split some cucumbers crosswise into two-inch pieces, having them an inch and a half in diame- 
ter, and each of these lengthways and across to obtain four quarters; peel and remove the seeds; 
pare them into the shape of cloves, add garlic, and cook in salted water; drain, wipe ona cloth, and 
put them in a thin sautoir with melted butter to reduce their humidity, then pour off the butter, 
and moisten with some gravy (No. 404), letting this fall to a glaze. 


(2734), CUCUMBERS STUFFED (Concombres Farcis), 


Peel the cucumbers and cut them in inch lengths; empty each piece with a vegetable spoon 
(Fig. 91), retaining a quarter of an inch at the bottom; blanch, then cook in consommé (No. 189) and 
drain. Fry a little onion in butter, add some chopped mushrooms, evaporate their humidity, then 
throw in some chopped truffles and parsley, also a little gravy (No. 404); simmer and add soaked 
and well-pressed bread-crumbs and raw egg-yolks. Stuff the cucumbers with this, stand them on 
a dish, bestrew the cucumbers with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan, pour over melted. 
butter and finish cooking brown in a moderate oven. Dress in a vegetable dish on a little half- 
glaze sauce (No. 413). 


(2735), EGGPLANT A LA DUPERRET—BROILED (Aubergines Grillées & la Duperret), 


Peel some eggplants, cut them up into three-eighths of an inch thick slices, each one to be 
three inches in diameter; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and let marinate for two hours, 
then drain off and dry; baste over with oil and broil them on a slow fire; dress wane maitre-d’hotel 
butter (No. 581) poured over. 

Eggplant can also be prepared by cutting it up three-quarters of an inch in thickness and 
three inches in diameter; score and besprinkle with fine salt; leave for one hour, then wipe dry and 
season with salt and black or red pepper, pour over a little oil, and turn them frequently before: 
broiling to a fine color on a slow fire. Fry a little well-chopped shallot, mushroom and parsley in 
butter, season with salt and pepper, add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and lemon juice. Dish. 
up the eggplant and pour the sauce over after incorporating a small piece of fresh butter. 


(2736). EGGPLANT IN CASES A LA MORTON (Aubergines en Caisses & la Morton), 


Butter some cases, either of paper or china; cover the bottom of each with a slice of peeled 
eggplant an eighth of an inch thick, and around with small bands of the same, exactly like an 
apple charlotte; cut up the remainder of the plant in squares, and fry them colorless in butter, 
then drain. Chop up as much cooked chicken meat as eggplant, and mix both together with 
mushrooms, truffles and chopped parsley, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding a very 
little thick allemande sauce (No. 407). With this preparation fill the cases, smooth the tops and 


bestrew with bread-crumbs; pour a little oil over and push into a moderate oven; when done drain 


off the fat, cover over with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 418) and serve. 


(2737) EGGPLANT A LA ROBERTSON (Aubergines & la Robertson), 


Have some peeled eggplants cut in half-inch diameter slices, sprinkle over with salt, and leave 
them to marinate for twenty minutes, then wipe and fry in oil.over a brisk fire; color them to a 
light golden brown, season and drain; dress in a circle, intercalating a layer of béchamel sauce 
(No. 409) between each slice; fill the center of the circle with more eggplant, cooked smothered with 
a piece of butter, then pressed through a sieve. Cover the whole with thick béchamel, and scatter 
on white bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan; pour over fresh butter and brown in a hot. 
oven, serving as quickly as it assumes a fine color. 


(2738), EGGPLANT STUFFED AND BAKED (Aubergines Farcies Gratinées), 


Divide some small eggplants, each one in two, without peeling them; score and fry, them 
drain and empty out the center with a spoon, leaving a layer a quarter of an inch thick against the: 
peel. Chop up the parts that have been removed, adding as much soaked and well-pressed 
bread-crumbs, and a clove of crushed garlic; cook the preparation for a few moments, season witls 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, and remove from the fire until it loses its greatest heat, then finisln 





VEGETABLES. 827 


with a few raw egg-yolks and chopped parsley. Fill the interior of the halved eggplants with this, 
smooth the tops and range them on a baking sheet; pour over plenty of oil and cook in a 
slack oven. When a fine color dress them on an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with tomato. 
sauce (No. 549) and run through a fine sieve. 


(2739), EGGPLANT FRIED (Aubergines Frites), 


Peel some eggplants; cut them into three-eighths of an inch slices, and from these remove 
round pieces two and a half inches in diameter, using a pastry cutter for the purpose; roll them. 
in flour and then fry to a fine color, or they can be fried plain without any flour. 


Another Way is to cut peeled eggplant into three-eighths of an inch slices and divide these 
into squares; salt over and drain for fifteen minutes on a sieve; wipe on a cloth and flour them 
quickly, a few at a time; drop them into very hot frying fat, and when done and of a fine color 
drain, salt and dress either kind on a napkin. 

Breaded Eggplant.—Cut each slice a quarter of an inch thick; remove from them rounds two. 
and a quarter inches in diameter; dip them in flour, then in beaten egg, and lastly in bread- 
crumbs; smooth the breading with a knife and fry to a fine color; drain and dress on a napkin. 


(2740). ENDIVES OR ESCAROLES GLAZED (Endives ou Escaroles Glacées), 


Wipe the endives well, cut them of an even length and range them in a flat buttered saucepan; 
season and baste over with butter; cook ona slow fire while covered and with no other moistening, 
turning them over onceonly. At the last moment drain off the endives; arrange them on a dish: 
and unglaze the saucepan with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 418) or light béchamel (No. 409), then 
strain the sauce over. 


(2741), GREEN PEAS—-MANGETOUT—A LA FLEURETTE (Petits Pois Mangetout & la Fleurette), 


These are prepared with ‘‘mangetout” peas, a species of very tender peas, the pods of which 
are eaten as well as the contents. String the threads on both sides of the pod from some ‘‘mange- 
tout” peas after they are partly cooked; drain and put them in a saucepan with some fresh cream; 
let simmer until the peas are entirely cooked, and just when serving season with salt, a little sugar, 
finely cut-up chives and a dash of vinegar. They can be thickened with egg-yolks, cream ana 
fresh butter just before serving. 


(2742), GREEN PEAS, ENGLISH STYLE, AND PUREE OF GREEN PEAS (Petits Pois & Anglaise: 
et Purée de Pois Verts), 

Boil some green peas in an untinned copper vessel containing boiling salted water and a few 
mint leaves; when cooked, drain and place them in a sautoir with salt, sugar and fresh butter, 
divided in small pats, mixing it into the peas without stirring them. Dress in a vegetable dish and 
lay small bits of butter on top. 

Purée of Green Peas.—To obtain a purée pound the cooked and drained peas in a mortar, 


adding some very thick béchamel (No. 409); season with salt and sugar. press through a fine sieve, 
and return to the saucepan to boil; stirin some fine butter at the last moment. 





(2743), GREEN PEAS, FRENCH STYLE (Petits Pois 4 la Frangaise), 


_ Put one pint of fresh-shelled green peas into a saucepan with a little cold water, stirring in a 
piece of butter; add salt and a bunch of parsley; cook with the lid on. When sufficiently done and 
the liquid reduced add a small piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); then take from the fire and finish 
by incorporating a large piece of butter divided in small bits. The peas should be well buttered. 
and thickened so that the liquid be entirely absorbed. 

With Sugar.—Prepare them exactly the same, only adding a pinch of powdered sugar. 


(2744), GREEN PEAS, HOUSEKEEPER’S STYLE (Petits Pois & la Ménagére), 


Take half a pound of lean unsmoked bacon cut in quarter-inch squares; blanch, drain and put 
them into a saucepan with four ounces of butter; fry the bacon colorless, then add a spoonful of 
flour and when this begins to brown moisten with a quart of stock (No. 194a); add three quarts of 
shelled fresh peas, a bunch of parsley and three green onions. When the peas are, done remove 
the parsley and onion, drain off the stock, thicken it with alittle kneaded butter (No. 579) and pass it 


828 THE HPICURTAN, 


through a sieve; put it back with the peas, boil both together again and remove from the fire; 
thicken with egg-yolks diluted in cream, at the same time incorporating a piece of fresh butter. 


(2745), GREEN PEAS, PARISIAN STYLE—SMALL (Petits Pois fins.4 la Parisienne), 


Cook some small green peas in a pan or small copper vessel with salted water, a large green 
onion and a bunch of parsley; as soon as done, take out the parsley and onion, drain through a 
colander without refreshing and put the peas into a sautoir with a pinch of sugar and nutmeg, 
thickening with a little velouté sauce (No. 415); take the peas from the fire, toss well and dress 
in a vegetable dish, garnishing around with puff paste crottons. 


(9746), GREEN PEAS WITH BRAISED LETTUCES (Petits Pois aux Laitues Braisées), 


Blanch and braise fifteen lettuce heads; drain them to pare, fold and trim evenly; put them back 
into the sautoir and pour over a few spoonfuls of half-glaze (No. 400) so as to be able to heat them up. 
At the last moment dress them in a circle on a dish, alternating each one with a thin bread-crumb 
crust fried in butter and then glazed with a brush. In the hollow of the circle dress a garnishing 
of small green peas cooked in salted water and simply finished with a piece of fresh butter. 


(2747) GREEN PEAS WITH SHREDDED LETTUCES (Petits Pois aux Laitues Ciselées), 


Put a pound and a half of fresh green peas, recently shelled, into a saucepan with two tender 
lettuce heads shredded up coarsely, one small onion, a bunch of parsley, salt, a pinch of sugar and 
sufficient cold water to reach to about their height; cover the saucepan and cook for twenty to 
twenty-five minutes on a hot fire. Suppress the parsley and onion, thicken the liquid with a small 
piece of butter kneaded with flour (No. 579), and finish off the fire with a lump of fresh butter 
divided in small pats. 


(2748), HOP STALKS OR POINTS FRIED AND WITH VIENNESE SAUCE (Pointes ou Tiges de 
Houblon Frites et 4 la Sauce Viennaise). 


Select the white parts of some young hops; these should be picked from the 15th of 
May to the 15th of June; blanch them in boiling water with salt, drain and lay them on a dish to 
season with salt and lemon juice, rollin rice flour, dip them in frying batter (No. 187), not too thick, 
plunge into hot fat, and when done drain, salt and serve. 


Viennese.—After the hops have been cooked in salted water, drain well and place them in a 
vegetable dish, covering over with Viennese sauce (No. 558). 


(2749), JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A LA SALAMANDER (Topinambours a la Salamandre), 


Pare Jerusalem artichokes into three-quarter inch rounds, or else in the shape of a pigeon’s egg; 
cook in salted water, drain and sauté in butter without letting attain a color. Prepare a purée by 
placing some peeled Jerusalem artichokes in a saucepan to boil; drain when done, and cover over 
with a damp cloth; dry in the oven, then press through a sieve. Return this purée to the sauce- 
pan; season with salt, nutmeg, fresh butter and egg-yolks, and form it into a border inside a dish, 
either pushed through a channeled socket pocket or else modeled with the hand; lay the sautéd 
Jerusalem artichokes in the center, strew grated parmesan over, cover with some rather thin cream 


béchamel sauce (No. 411), and then more parmesan; color in a brisk oven, serving it immediately 
after it is baked to a golden brown. 


(2750), LENTILS WITH BAOON (Lentilles au Petit Salé), 


Soak a pound and a half of lentils for six hours, after picking and washing them in several 
waters; put them into a saucepan with half a pound of unsalted and blanched lean breast of bacon, 
some carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, an onion with one clove stuck 
in it, pepper, nutmeg and stock (No. 194a); boil, skim, and simmer until thoroughly done, and after 
removing the carrots, parsley, onion and pork, drain off the stock, toss the lentils in butter, and sea- 





VEGETABLES. 829 


son with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice, or they can be sautéd with a little alle- 
mande sauce (No. 407). Dress and surround with well-pared slices of the bacon, and over this 
pour a little gravy (No. 404), then serve. 


(2751), LETTUCES CHOPPED WITH CROUTONS ics Hachées aux Orotitons), 


Pick and pare nicely some lettuce heads by removing the green leaves from the bottom of the 
stalk; detach all the leaves separately, and wash them in several changes of water, then blanch 
refresh and drain; press down well to extract the liquid; pick over to remove all straws antl 
other impurities that may be attached to the lettuce, then chop it up finely, and lay it in a sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter; dry over the fire, and season with salt and nutmeg, adding a pinch of 
flour; moisten with some clear gravy (No. 404), andthen dress. Surround the lettuce with crofitons 
fried in butter. The gravy may be replaced by cream and the flour by velouté sauce (No. 415) or 
espagnole sauce (No. 414). Cos lettuce can be prepared and served the same way. 


(2752), LETTUCES STUFFED AND FRIED (Laitues Farcies et Frites), 


Pare and wash some lettuce heads in several changes of water,. blanch them in a copper 
basin and cook in boiling, salted water for twenty minutes; drain, refresh and press out the 
liquid from each one separately. Spread them on a cloth, open the leaves, and fill each lettuce 
with a forcemeat ball an inch and a half in diameter, prepared as follows: Take a quarter of a 
pound of cooked chicken meat, the same of cooked ham, the same of cooked mushrooms, and add 
a pound of veal udder, a quarter of a pound of soaked and pressed-out bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, 
chopped parsley, minced chives and five egg-yolks, the whole to be well pounded in a mortar. 
Enclose the forcemeat ball in the lettuce. Wrap each of these in a slice of fat pork, braise ‘or one 
hour, drain and dip in egg and bread-crumbs, either whole or cut in two, fry to a fine color, and 
serve with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) apart. 


(2753), LETTUCES WITH HALF-GLAZE SAUCE—STUFFED (Laitues Farcies & la Sauce 
Demi-Glace), 

Blanch some pared and well-washed lettuces for ten to twelve minutes; drain on a sieve, and 
press them singly to extract all the water, then double them over and range them in a sautoir 
lined with fat pork; season and moisten with broth (No. 194a), cover with buttered paper and cook 
for one hour on a slow fire. Drain the lettuces once more, open them and stuff with veal quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 92), closing them up again carefully; return to a clean sautoir one beside the other 
and pour over a little gravy (No. 404); cook once more for twenty minutes on a slow fire, drain and 
shape them prettily. Dress on a dish in a circle, and cover over with a little half-glaze sauce 


(No. 413). 


(9754), LETTUGES WITH THICKENED GRAVY—BRAISED (Laitues Braisées au Jus Lié). 


Trim some lettuce heads by removing the green leaves from the stalks; pare these stalks to a 
point, wash the lettuces in several waters, changing it each time, and then blanch for ten minutes 
in a copper basin with boiling salted water; drain on a sieve, press each one separately to ex- 
tract all the liquid, and fold them lengthwise in two, wrapping each one in a thin slice of fat 
pork tied on with a thin string. Range them in a sautoir, braise in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) 
and broth (No.194a) half of each, and cover with buttered paper; let cook for one hour and a quarter 
on a slow fire or in the oven, being careful to baste occasionally during the operation. Drain the 
lettuces, dress them in a circle; strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it well with a little 
espagnole sauce (No. 414); pour a third part of this over the lettuces and serve the remainder 


separately. 


(2755), MACEDOINE A LA MONTIGNY (Macédoine & la Montigny). 


rter-inch cylindricals, turnips into five-sixteenths inch in diameter 


Cut carrots into small qua 
Blanch and cook each 


balls, string beans into lozenges; also have small flageolet beans and peas. 
vegetable separately, drain, fry together colorless in butter, and mingle in a good soubise sauce 
(No.'543), thickening when ready to use with a little fresh butter and seasoning. Bread-crumb and 
egg over some small teaspoon chicken quenelles (No. 155), fry them in clarified butter, drain and 


range them around the dressed macédoine. 


830 THE EPICUREAN. 





Fia. 549. 


(2756), MUSHROOMS A.LA RAYNAL—MOUSSERONS (Champignons Mousserons & la Raynal), 


Prepare a foundation paste (No. 185) croustade, having it broad and rather high; place it on 
a baking sheet and fill it with a preparation made with a pound and a half of mushrooms cooked 
for five minutes in a little butter and broth (No. 194a); season with salt, then drain; when they 
are done cut them up finely and add the pieces toa chicken purée (No.713), having it the consistency 
of a thick sauce, mixing in some raw egg-yolks. Push the filled croustade into the oven and let cook 
without browning. Have prepared a dozen mushroom heads, each one an inch and a half in diam- 
eter, suppress the stalks, scoop out the inside and chop up the fragments and stalks very fine; 
fry them in butter until quite dry, add lemon juice and let cool; mix this with the same quantity 
of chicken forcemeat (No. 86) and chopped parsley, season well and use this to fill the mushroom 
heads, forming them slightly rounded on top; lay them on a baking pan, scatter bread-crumbs over 
and pour on some butter; slip a little broth into the bottom and place in the oven for half an 
hour; dress these mushrooms on top of the croustade and serve. 


(2757). MUSHROOMS A LA DUMAS—ORONGES (Champignons Oronges & la Dumas), 

Remove the skin from some oronges; mince finely and fry in oil; when the moisture has all 
evaporated, season and drain in a colander. Put some fresh oil in the pan, add to it parsley and a 
love of garlic and afterward the drained oronges with the addition of a little salt and cayenne 
pepper; dress on a baking dish, dredge over bread-crumbs to cover and push into the oven. Turn 
eighteen whole mushroom oronges, having them an inch and three-quarters in diameter; chop up 
the stalks with the removed parts from the inside. Have a sautoir on the fire, set into it a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter with as much oil; in this fry colorless four finely chopped and blanched 
shallots, a clove of garlic, the chopped oronges and a heaping tablespoonful of chopped parsley; 
when there is no more moisture, add half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Remove the garlic, 
stuff the whole oronges with this preparation, bestrew with bread-crumbs, pour butter over and 
place them in a baking pan; moisten with mushroom liquor and cook in a moderate oven for 
twenty minutes, and garnish the baked preparation around with these. 


(2758). MUSHROOMS A LA RIVERA—MORILS (Champignons Morilles 4 la Rivera), 

Select large-sized morils; cut off the stalks, wash well and throw them into a saucepanful of 
tepid water; leave to soak for half an hour, then take them up, one by one, and rub them several 
times through the hands, being careful not to break them and changing the water each time so as 
to remove all the adhering sand, then drain. Cut some lean ham into one-eighth inch dice pieces, 
fry in butter, add the morils and toss both together, then moisten with half a pint of good sherry 
and a little Malaga; season and cook slowly for half an hour. Fry some sweet Spanish peppers in 
oil; when done and well drained, add a little meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. - Dress the 
morils in the center of a dish and surround with the sweet peppers; bestrew with chopped parsley. 


(2759). MUSHROOM ORUSTS AND WITH TRUFFLES—MOUSSERONS (Crotites aux Champignons 
Mousserons et Orotites aux Champignons Mousserons aux Truffes), 


These are prepared in various ways. Flat crusts are made three inches in diameter and a quar- 
ter of aninch thick, to be covered over with butter and placed in the oven to attain a fine color. Or 





VEGETABLES. 831 


cut off the tops of some rolls or flutes, empty out all the crumbs, coat the inside with fresh butter 
and put them into the oven tocolor nicely. Turnand channel (No. 118) one pound of sound mush- 
room heads; wash them in clear water, then place in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, salt, 
lemon juice and a little water, boil for a few moments, keeping the vessel closed. Reduce 
some velouté sauce (No. 415) with this mushroom liquid, add to it the mushrooms, remove at the 
first boil and thicken with four egg-yolks, a little cream and fresh butter; fill or cover the crusts 
with this and serve at once. 


For Mushroom and Truffie Crusts.—Prepare the same way, only adding minced truffles to 
the mushrooms; they may be colored in the oven by besprinkling the tops with bread-crumbs and 
' cheese, pouring butter over, then set in the oven for a few moments. 


(2760), MUSHROOMS SAUTED WITH THICKENED BUTTER AND BROILED MUSHROOMS ON | 
TOAST—MOUSSERONS (Champignons Mousserons Sautés au Beurre Lié et Champignons 
Grillés), 


Turn one pound of mushroom heads (No. 118); peel the stalks and cut them up into medium- 
sized pieces. Put some clarified butter in a sautoir, add all the mushrooms, set it on the fire and 
let cook with salt, lemon juice and white wine. Just when ready to serve add a little béchamel 
sauce (No. 409); thicken with two egg-yolks and dilute with a gill of cream. 


Broiled Mushrooms on Toast.—Choose large, fully opened mushrooms, remove the stems and 
peel the heads, season with salt and pepper, besmear with oil or melted butter and place them in 
a hinged gridiron (Fig. 172). Broil on a slow fire and when cooked on one side, turm over. About 
ten minutes should be sufficient tocook them. Dress on toast, having the rounded sides uppermost, 
spread over the top partly melted maitre-d’hotel butter (No. 581) and serve hot. 


(2761). MUSHROOMS SERVED UNDER A GLASS COVER AND WITH CREAM (Champignons 
Servis Sous Oloche en Verre et a la Créme), 


Have some rouud slices of bread three inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick. 
Cut off the stalks from some very fresh mushroom 
heads, channel (No. 118) and sauté; range these on 
the slices of bread (the heads downward); season 
with salt and pepper and lay a single slice on a 
dish so that each individual guest can be supplied 
with a separate one. Cover with a bell made 
either of glass or silver and push them into the 
oven for twenty minutes. After removing lift off 
the bells and cover the mushrooms with a white 
wine velouté sauce (No. 415) or a white wine 
espagnole sauce (No. 492). 











Under a Glass Cover with Cream.—¥ry some Fic. 550. 
turned mushroom heads in butter; moisten 
with fresh cream, season with salt and pepper; cover and simmer until the cream becomes partially 
reduced. Have slices of bread prepared the same as for the above, put a slice on each plate, and 
on these dress the mushrooms in a pyramid form, pouring a part of their liquid over each; put on 
the bells and lay them to bake in a slack oven for twenty minutes, then serve with the bells still on. 


(2762) MUSHROOMS STUFFED IN GASES WITH MADEIRA—MOUSSERONS (Champignons 
Mousserons Farcis en Oaisses au Madére). 


Procure twelve mushrooms, each an inch and three-quarters in diameter; remove both peel 
and stalks; wash and with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) scoop out the centers until the firm mushroom 
meat is reached, then wash the whole, and chop up the stalks. Have some hot butter and in it fry 
alittle shallot, parsley and truffles, all well chopped; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and dilute 
with half a pint of well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); fill the insides of the mushroom heads 
with this dressing. Prepare paper cases the same size as the mushroom heads, coat them with 
oil, and stiffen in the oven; into each case place a little Madeira wine, and one mushroom with the 
stuffed side uppermost; bestrew with bread-crumbs, pour over a little butter, and bake in the oven; 
when done to a fine color baste with Colbert sauce (No. 451), and serye. 


832 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2763), OKRA OR GUMBO, GARNISHED WITH BARLEY BECHAMEL QGROUSTADES (Gombo 
Garni de Croustades d’Orge, Bechamel), 

Procure young and tender okras; cut off both ends, keeping the gumbo two inches long; 
blanch them in a copper pan with boiling salted water, drain and lay them in a sautoir 
one beside the other; moisten to their height with mirepoix stock (No. 419), let simmer until 
cooked and the stock reduced to a glaze; dress, cover over with well-buttered béchamel sauce 
(No. 409), garnishing around with barley béchamel croustades, made according to the following 
directions. 

Barley Béchamel Croustades.—Boil some pearl barley in salted water for three hours, drain, 
put into a sautoir, and dilute with a well-buttered and highly seasoned sauce. Fill some hollow 
croustade tartlets with this, forming a cover with a round piece of savarin (No. 148) an inch and a 
quarter in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick, having it buttered and glazed in the oven. 


(2764), ONIONS BOILED, HOLLANDAISE OR SOUBISE SAUCE (Oignons Bouillis, Sauce Holland- 
aise ou Soubise), 

Peel medium-sized onions, each one weighing two ounces; boil them in salted water, and when 

done, drain, wipe carefully, and dress them in clusters or in a row, covering over with Hollandaise: 
sauce (No. 477) or a well-buttered soubise sauce (No. 548). 


(2765), ONIONS BRAISED (Oignons Braisés), 

Peel eighteen onions, weighing an ounce and a half each, being careful not to break them; cut. 
off the stalks and roots and make a crosswise incision on the root end; sauté them in butter or fat 
with salt and a pinch of sugar, browning slightly; then range them in a sautoir with bards of fat. 
pork; moisten with a little veal blond stock (No. 423), just sufficient to cover, and cook slowly while 
reducing the liquid. Dress in a vegetable dish and pour the stock over, or else cover with matelote 
sauce (No. 498), having reduced it with the stock. 


(2766), ONIONS, WHITE OR BERMUDA—STUFFED (Oignons Blancs Ordinaires ou d’Espagne Farcis), 


Take either common white onions or Bermudas of medium size, each weighing about three — 


ounces; plunge those seiected into boiling water for two minutes, then drain and peel off the outer 
skin; empty the insides with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), blanch for a few moments, drain and stuff 
them with chicken: forcemeat (No. 79), incorporating as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385); be- 
strew the tops with bread-crumbs, pour butter over and lay them in a sautoir lined with fat pork; 
moisten to a third of their height with broth (No. 194a), then cook until they attain a color in a. 
moderate oven; dress on a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and serve. 


(2767), PARSNIP CAKES FRIED IN BUTTER (Galettes de Panais Frites au Beurre), 
Cut three pounds of young parsnips in six or eight pieces, according to their size, after they 
have been peeled and washed; boil them in water with salt and butter; when cooked drain off well, 
then pound and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Press this pulp forcibly through a sieve, 


incorporate a little butter, then leave to cool. Divide the preparation into two-inch diameter balls, 


roll these in flour, flatten to half an inch in thickness and yu in clarified butter; drain and dress. 
on napkins with ried parsley on top. 


(2768). GREEN PEPPERS STUFFED (Piments Verts Farcis), 
Plunge the peppers into hot fat, leaving them in sufficiently long to be able to detach the outer 
skin by rubbing with a cloth; cut off the stalk ends and empty out the seeds, etc. Prepare a force- 


meat with finely chopped onions and fry it in oil with as much cut-up peppers; let get cold, then - 


mix ina quarter of a pound of cooked sausage meat (No. 68), a quarter of a pound of chopped. 
fresh mushrooms and a little thick tomato purée (No. 730). Put the whole into a saucepan on 
the fire, boil, thicken with bread-crumbs and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when partially 
cold stir in four egg-yolks. Fill the peppers with this, lay them on a baking pan covered with 
thin slices of fat pork, pour butter over and set in a moderate oven for fifteen’ minutes; dress in 
a circle, pouring a little light half-glaze sauce (No. 413) in the center. 


(2769), SWEET PEPPERS SAUTED (Piments Doux Sautés), 

Plunge the sweet peppers in hot fat, or broil them, to be able to remove the light skin; divide- 
each one in two, cut away the hard parts and sauté slowly in oil, cooking them at the same time; 
season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168), finely chopped shallot and parsley; dress in a veg- 
etable dish and serve. Instead of fresh sweet peppers canned ones can be substituted, these being: 
imported from Spain. 





| ae 


VEGETABLES. 833 


(2770), POTATOES, ANNA (Pommes de Terre Anna), 


Select long- -shaped potatoes; they must be peeled and cut into the form of a large cork; mince 
them finely, and soak in water for a few moments; drain and wipe on a cloth. Butter and bread. 
the inside of a thick copper pan, having a well-fitted cover; range 
on the bottom and sides a thin layer of the potatoes, one sperieanine 
the other, then fill entirely with the remaining ones in separate layers, 
covering each with butter free from moisture, softened by working in a 
_napkin; mask the upper layer with the same, and close with the lid. 
Cook the potatoes for three-quarters of an hour in the oven; a quarter 





mea) 


of an hour before serving take from the fire, drain off the butter and cut Fic. 551. 

a cross through the potatoes yet in the sautoir, and turn each quarter 

over with the aid of a palette; put back the drained-off butter and return to the oven 1 ntil ready, 
and invert on a dish to serve. These potatoes may be made in a smaller pan; in this case they 
should not be cut but turned over whole before putting in the oven the second time. 


(2771), POTATOES BAKED (Pommes de Terre au Gratin) 


Wash and brush medium-sized potatoes, wipe dry and lay them on a dish, then push into a 
hot oven for thirty to forty minutes; when done serve on a napkin, or else they may be steamed 
or boiled, then baked and peeled; cover with butter, color in the oven, and serve in a vegetable: 
dish. 


(2772). POTATOES BIARRITZ—BAKED (Pommes de Terre au Gratin & la Biarritz), 


Put a pound of peeled potatoes to boil in salted water; drain as soon as done, and dry in the 
oven; rub through a sieve, then put this purée into a saucepan to dilute with a little clear gravy 
(No. 404), and add meat glaze (No. 402), two shallots prevoiusly fried in butter, chopped parsley, 
- salt, pepper, nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of raw ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and four 
egg-yolks. Put aside the eighth part of this preparation, and dress the remainder dome-form on a 
baking dish; to the eighth reserved part add four egg-yolks and a little cream; beat well, and then 
stir in two well-whipped egg-whites; cover the dome with this, bestrew it with bread-crumbs, 
pour melted butter over, and set it in the oven for twenty minutes to heat and bake to a fine color.. 


(2773), POTATOES, BIGNON (Pommes de Terre Bignon), 


Turn some raw potatoes into rounds two and one-eighth inches in diameter; make an opening: 
in them of one and one-eighth inch, leaving a thickness of a quarter of an inch; blanch these: 
hollow balls for a few moments in salted water, then turn them over to drain well. Prepare a. 
forcemeat with a shallot fried colorless in butter, adding some sausage meat (No. 68), and let cook. 
together; put in salt, pepper, bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, and a few egg-yolks, and with this: 
preparation fill the holes in the potatoes; strew bread-crumbs over, then parmesan cheese, sprinkle 
_ over melted butter, and range them as fast as they are ready in a sautoir lined with bards of 
fat pork; pour more butter over, and put on the lid, then set it in an oven to finish cooking’ the: 
potatoes; when done remove the cover and brown them nicely; range neatly in a vegetable dish. 
on a little half-glaze (No. 400). 


(2774), POTATOES BOILED IN THEIR SKINS OR PEELED, ENGLISH STYLE, PERSILLADE 
- BALLS (Pommes de Terre Bouillies en Robe ou Pelées, & l’Anglaise,'en Boules Persillade), 


Boiled in Their Skins or. Peeled.—Wash some uniform-sized potatoes; cook them either by 
steam or in salted water from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and when nearly done (if in salted 
water) drain and cover with a‘damp cloth; put them into the-oven until all their moisture has 
evaporated, and serve in folded napkins, with or. without skins, or in a-covered vegetable dish, so 
they keep hot. 

Boiled English Style.—Peel some raw potatoes; pare them in the shape of large olives, and 
put them in a saucepan with salt and water; cover and let the liquid boil until the potatoes are 
done, then drain off the water and cover over with a cloth. Close the saucepan and set it in the 
oven for a few moments to dry them well; pour a little melted salt butter over and dress in a 
vegetable dish. 

Persillade Balls are potatoes formed into balls three-quarters of an inch to one inch in 
diameter with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), and cooked the same as the English. Serve them in & 
vegetable dish, pour salted butter and chopped parsley over. 


834 THE EPICUREAN.: 


(2775), POTATOES, BORDELAISE—NEW (Pommes de Terre Nouvelles 4 la Bordelaise). - 
Select small, uniform-sized new potatoes; rub the peelings off with a cloth and sauté them in 
lard, keeping the pan covered until done and of a fine color, then drain and sauté in butter with a 
little chopped shallot, a trifle of garlic, salt and fine herbs. In case there be no new potatoes, pare 
old ones into olive forms, wash and boil partly in salted water, then drain and ‘finish cooking in 
butter the same as the new ones. 


(2776). POTATOES BROILED WITH FRIED BREAD-RASPINGS (Pommes de Terre Grillées 4 la 
Chapelure Frite), 


To prepare broiled potatoes boiled ones are generally used, cut in half-inch thick slices; tay 
them on a double-hinged broiler, salt and baste with melted butter, then place the broiler over a 
slow fire, and cook the potatoes to a good color; dress them in the center of a dish. Fry fresh 
bread-crumbs in butter, and when a fine golden brown pour over the potatoes, and serve. 


(2777), POTATOES, BUSSY (Pommes de Terre Bussy), 


After having the potatoes prepared the same as for the dauphine potatoes (No. 2783), and 
before dividing it into balls, mix in some chopped parsley. Take up some with a teaspoon, detach 
it with the finger, and let fall into hot frying fat; when of a good color drain dry, and dress on 
a folded napkin. 


(2778), POTATO CAKES (Gateaux de Pommes de Terre), 


Bake eight potatoes in the oven, and when done cut them iengthwise in two, empty out entirely, 
and place this in a saucepan with two finely chopped shallots fried in butter, and a pound of lean 
meat, either of veal or lamb or dark poultry meat, chives, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two ounces of 
butter, six egg-yolks, and two gills of velouté sauce (No. 415). With this preparation make inch 
anda half diameter balls flattening them down to five-eighths of an inch in thickness; roll in 
beaten egg-white, then in flour, and fry in a pan with clarified butter. Dress on a folded napkin 
in a circle with fried parsley in the center. 


(2779), POTATO CAKES WITH HAM (Galettes de Pommes de Terre au Jambon), 


Lay in a saucepan one pint of mashed potatoes (No. 2798), rubbed through a sieve; mix 
in with it a lump of butter, a pinch of sugar, nutmeg, a handful of grated parmesan, 
Six raw egg-yolks, two beaten whites, a little salt and four ounces of cooked and finely chopped 
Jean ham. Heat a griddle or frying-pan, butter well the surface, take the preparation up 
with a spoon, and let it fall on it in rounds three inches each, keeping them slightly 
apart; cook them on a slow fire, turning over; when nicely colored and hardened drain and serve 
hot. The preparation may be let fall into three-inch diameter rings, five-sixteenths of an 
inch thick, filling them to the top; in this way the cakes will be more uniform than when cooked 
as above. 


(2780). POTATOES CHOPPED WITH CREAM, AND BAKED (Pommes de Terre Hachées & la 
Oréme et au Gratin), 


Peel some boiled potatoes after they are cold; chop them up and lay in a sautoir with butter, 
salt, nutmeg, white pepper and cream; boil and simmer until the preparation has acquired a suffi- 
cient consistency, then serve in a vegetable dish. 


Baked.—Butter the bottom of a dish, bestrew it with bread-raspings, and fill slightly bomb- 
shaped with chopped potatoes and cream as the above; dredge more bread-raspings over, pour on 
some butter, wipe the edges of the dish, and bake in a hot oven. 


(2781). POTATOES, CREAM OF, BAKED (Créme de Pommes de Terre au Gratin), 


Cut up some boiled potatoes the same as for duchess (No. 2785). After they have steamed 
take from the fire and stir in a piece of butter; work rapidly with a large fork to make a purée, 
but do not rub it through a sieve; season with salt, nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, and for three 
or four gills of the purée add four or five raw egg-yolks and a handful of parmesan cheese, 
diluting very slowly with a gill and a half of rich, raw cream, so as to have the preparation as 
smooth as for a pudding; when this degree is acquired stir well on the side of the range for two 


VEGETABLES. 835 


minutes to heat slightly, then remove and incorporate two or three ounces of fresh butter 
divided in small pats. Pour the preparation at once into a small vegetable dish, lay it ona 
baking tin and brown the surface lightly in the oven. Eight or ten minutes will besufficient. Serve 
in the same dish. 


(2782) POTATO CROQUETTES, IN SURPRISE AND MAISIENNE (Croquettes de Pommes de Terre 
: en Surprise et 4 la Maisienne), 


Obtain one pound of very hot mashed potato preparation (No. 2798), and rub it through a 
sieve; put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, work it well with salt, nutmeg and four 
egg-yolks; jet get cold, then form it into cylindrical croquettes an inch in diameter by two and a 
quarter inches in length; roll them in bread crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in bread-crumbs; 
smooth this breading with a knife, and fry a few at a time in hot frying fat; drain and dress on 
a napkin. 

In Surprise.—Use the same preparation as for the above; form into round croquettes instead 
of cylindricals, and in the center of each one insert a half-inch diameter ball of consistent chestnut 
purée (No. 712); bread-crumb and fry them the same as the potato croquettes. 


Maisienne Croquettes.—Have a pound of the mashed potato preparation (No. 2798), put it into 
a saucepan with an ounce of butter, two egg-yolks, half a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409), and 
the same quantity of green corn, the grains scraped free of skin; mix well and leave till cold; with 
this form two anda half inch cylindrical croquettes, having them an inch and a quarter thick; 
roll in eggs and bread-crumbs, fry in plenty of hot frying fat, drain and serve on folded napkins. 


(2783), POTATOES, DAUPHINE (Pommes de Terre Dauphine), 


Bake two pounds of potatoes, cut them lengthways in two, remove sufficient pulp to obtain a 
pound, and mix this with a quarter as much pate-a-chou (No. 132), eggs, a little cream, salt and 
nutmeg. Divide it to make inch and a half balls, lengthen them to the shape of an egg, roll in 
butter, then in bread-raspings, and fry in hot frying fat. 


(2784), POTATOES, HALF-GLAZE (Pommes de Terre Demi-Glace), 

Prepare potatoes the same as for gastronome (No. 2789), lay them in a sautoir with clarified 
butter, without having them previously boiled; when nearly done change into another saucepan 
and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404), espagnole sauce (No. 414) and meat-glaze (No. 402); cover 
the pan and cook so that the liquid be reduced to the consistency of a half-glaze as soon as the 
potatoes are finished. 


(2785), POTATOES, DUCHESS (Pommes de Terre Duchesse), 


The same preparation as the marchioness (No. 2797), adding a handful of grated parmesan; roll 
in one and three-quarter inch diameter balls, lengthen these and roll them in bread-crumbs to have 
them assume an oblong form two and five-eighths inches by one and three-quarter inches; flatten 
to the thickness of half an inch, cut off the four corners, dip them in melted butter, then in bread- 
crumbs and lay them on a liberally buttered baking sheet, pouring more butter over; push into a 
very hot oven and when of a fine color remove from the oven and serve. 


(2786), POTATOES, PARISIENNE (Pommes de Terre Parisienne), 


Cut them with a three-quarters of an inch diameter vegetable spoon (Fig. 91); fry slowly in 
plenty of hot fat and when three-quarters done drain this off and lay them in a sautoir with clari- 
fied butter, toss, season with salt, sprinkle over with chopped parsley and serve. 


(2787). POTATOES FRIED AND CHANNELED (Pommes de Terre Cannelées Frites), 

5) in a pan provided with a wire basket (Fig. 121). Peel raw potatoes, 
| aving each one about an inch and a half in 
ater immediately, soak for 
arm frying fat; then 


Put some frying fat (No. 5 
cut them in slices with a channeled knife (Fig. 157), h 
diameter and three-sixteenths of an inch thick; throw them into cold w 
one hour, then drain; put them intoa wire basket, and plunge into the Ww 
cook, keeping them at the same degree of heat, stirring about several times; when done and nicely 


colored, drain, wipe, salt and dress in a pyramid. 


836 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2788). POTATO FRITTERS (Beignets de Pommes de Terre), 


Imitate small eggs with potato croquette preparation (No. 2782); leave them till quite cold or 
ice, then cut each one lengthwise in two, thus obtaining two halves for every egg, then cut these: 
again in two on their length; dip these separate quarters in a light frying batter (No. 137), then in 
hot frying fat and fry to a fine golden color. Dress on a folded napkin. 


(2789), POTATOES, GASTRONOME (Pommes de Terre Gastronome). 


From some raw potatoes trim cylindricals one inch in diameter by an inch and a quarter long; 
blanch them for ten minutes, then drain off and finish cooking in clarified butter; when done pour 
this butter off and add salt, lemon juice, a small quantity of meat glaze (No. 402), chopped truffles. 
and a little Madeira wine. Range and serve in a vegetable dish. 


(2798), POTATOES HOLLANDAISE WITH MELTED BUTTER OR HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 
(Pommes de Terre & la Hollandaise au Beurre Fondu ou & la Sauce Hollandaise), 


Cut potatoes into inch balls with a round vegetable spoon (Fig. 91); cook them in salted water, 
and a few moments before they are finished drain off the water and cover with a damp cloth, then. 
lay them in the oven for a few minutes; return to a saucepan and pour over slightly melted salty 
butter or else use a well-buttered Hollandaise sauce (No. 477). 


(2791), POTATOES, HOUSEKEEPER’S STYLE (Pommes de Terre Ménagére), 


Cut a quarter of a pound of lean, unsmoked bacon into three-eighths of an inch squares; blanch: 
and fry in butter two ounces of chopped onion; moisten with broth (No. 194a), having just suffi- 
cient to moisten, and let the bacon cook so that when done the liquid will all be reduced; add about 
a pound of mashed potatoes, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley. 


(2792), POTATOES, JULIENNE OR STRAW (Pommes de Terre Julienne ou Pommes 
de Terre Paille), 
Peel the potatoes and cut them in eighth of an inch slices and these into. 
fillets. For straws the fillets are much thinner than for Julienne; fry the same- 
as the channeled (No. 2787). 


(2793), POTATOES, LONG BRANCH (Pommes de Terre Long Branch), 

Cut up some peeled potatoes with the machine (Fig. 552); these pieces can be: 
obtained several yards long. Soak them in cold water for some hours, and fry 
the same as channeled potatoes (No. 2787) in white fat. 


(2794), POTATOES, LYONNESE (Pommes de Terre Lyonnaise), 
Pare some cooked ‘potatoes into cylinders one inch in diameter, cut them. 
Fie. 552, three-sixteenths:of an inch thick and sauté in butter; mince finely one medium- 
| _ sized onion; fry it in butter, and when nicely colored mix in the sautéd potatoes. 
and season with salt‘and pepper; toss them again for a few moments, drain off the butter and. 
dress. BR | Lence dues 
























































(2795) POTATOES, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Pommes de Terre Maitre d’Hétel), 


Boil the potatoes the same as for plain boiled No. 2774; leave them to cool partly, then pare: 
into cylindricals an inch in diameter, and these into three-sixteenths of an inch slices; place them 
in a saucepan having its bottom well buttered, season with salt and nutmeg, and moisten to three- 
quarters of their height with broth (No. 194a). Boil slowly until the liquid be reduced, then remoye- 
from the fire and stir in a few bits of butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice. They can.also be 
prepared by using raw potatoes pared to the same size and thickness as those for the above; set 
them in a buttered saucepan, moisten with veal blond (No. 423), season and cook on a brisk fire in 
such a way as to have the liquid almost dry by the time the potatoes are done; just when serving: 
add a few small lumps of butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


(2796), POTATOES, MARSHAL (Pommes de Terre Maréchal), 


Mince some raw potatoes; wash and wipe well on a cloth; put them in a flat saucepan with 
butter; season and cook very slowly while covered, tossing them frequently; when soft beat them 
up and dress in layers ina vegetable dish; bestrew each of these with grated parmesan, pour: 
melted butter over and bake for half an hour in a slack oven. 





VEGETABLES. 83? 


(2797). POTATOES, MARCHIONESS (Pommes de Terre Marquise). 


Peel and cut up some raw potatoes; boil them in salted water, drain it off as soon as they are 
dione and cover over with a clean cloth; let steam for a few moments in a slack oven, then remove 
and rub afew at atime through a sieve; put this purée into a saucepan, and for each pound 
stir in quickly one ounce of butter, five raw egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg, a pinch of sugar and two 
tablespoonfuls of good raw cream. Pour the preparation on a floured table, roll it into thick cork- 
shaped pieces and cut these across in ovals two inches wide, three inches long and half an inch 
thick; range them in a copper baking pan with hot clarified butter and brown on both sides in the 
oven, turning them over while cooking. 


(2798). POTATOES, MASHED, IN SNOW, IN PUREE OR BAKED (Pommes de Terre en Neige, en 
Purée ou au Gratin), 


Boil mealy potatoes, the same as described in No. 2774; pass them through a small hand 
strainer (Fig. 553), or a large pressure strainer if for larger quantities (Fig. 554). 


For Snow Potatoes use the purée as it leaves the strainer (Fig. 553), put it in a napkin and 
form it into a ball inside of this; 
remove the napkin slowly to 
have the ball remain whole and 
serve in a covered vegetable dish. 

In Purée.—After removing 
the potatoes from the strainer, 
put the purée in a saucepan, 
adding one ounce of butter for 
each pound, and a gill of milk; 
serve. 

Baked Mashed Potatoes.—Lay 
the potatoes in a baking dish, smooth .the top nicely, bestrew with bread-crumbs and 
parmesan, pour butter over and bake in the oven, or substitute potato croquette preparation 
(No. 2782); dress in the center of a baking dish in pyramid form and mark with a knife in large 
stripes from top to bottom; brush over with beaten eggs, baste with melted butter and brown in 
a not too hot oven. 





sk (2799), POTATOES, MELLOW (Pommes de Terre Fondantes), 


Prepare a few dozen small potatoes, giving them the shape of a pigeon’s egg, all of uniform size; 
lay them in a sautoir with melted veal kidney fat, or good lard, and cook slowly while turning so 
that they color on all their surfaces; when done, press down slightly with a palette so as to flatten 
without breaking; they should now be oval-shaped. Pour off the fat from the pan and cover with 
butter; put in the potatoes, one beside the other, and keep them in the oven from ten to twelve 
minutes, to have them absorb the largest part of the butter while turning and basting; salt over 
and “dress in a vegetable dish. | 

Another way is to prepare by first boiling olive-shaped potatoes, then crushing them one after 
the other in a cloth; place on a buttered baking sheet, pour slightly melted fresh butter over and 
color in a hot oven, basting at frequent intervals with the butter while cooking; dress in a vegetable 
dish. 


(2800). POTATOES, PONT-NEUF (Pommes de Terre Pont-Neuf), 


These are potatoes cut in square lardon shapes, three-eighths of an inch by two inches in 
length, to be fried and dressed the same as the channeled potatoes (No. 2787). 


(2801). POTATOES, PROVENGAL (Pommes de Terre a la Provengale), 


Trim raw potatoes to the shape of corks, then cut them across three-sixteenths of an inch in 


thickness; wipe perfectly dry and sauté slowly in oil so they have plenty of time to cook, then add 


838 THE EPICUREAN. 


a little garlic and a little onion all finely chopped; salt them and finish in the oven just when serving; 
drain off the butter and strew over with chopped parsley and lemon juice. 


(2802), POTATOES, SARAH (Pommes de Terre Sarah), 


Cut some raw potatoes into corkscrew shapes with a special machine (Fig, 
555); fry till half done in not too hot fat; drain and place them in a sautoir with 
clarified butter to finish cooking, seasoning with salt, and adding chopped parsley 
and lemon juice. 





(2803). POTATOES, SARATOGA (Pommes de Terre Sar- 
atoga), 


Mince the potatoes very finely in the machine (Fig. 
556), or cut thinly with a knife; lay them in cold water for 
twelve hours, changing it several times, then drain and fry 
in very hot white lard; when finished they should be ex- 
ceedingly white and dry. 





Fic. 555. (2804), POTATOES SAUTED (Pommes de Terre Sautées), 


Boil some long unpeeled potatoes in salted water; remove their skins and when partly cold pare 
into the shape of corks, then in three-sixteenths inch slices and put them in a pan with melted butter; 
season and sauté over a moderate fire to have them slightly browned; bestrew with chopped pars- 
ley and serve at once. 


(2805), POTATOES SAUTED WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS AND TRUFFLES (Pommes de Terre 
Sautées aux Fonds d’Artichauts et aux Truffes), 


Trim long potatoes, shaping them into cylinders one inch in diameter; cut them into three- 
sixteenths of an inch thick slices, drain and dry on a cloth; also trim small artichoke bottoms, 
cut them in four pieces, and pare. Heat a liberal quantity of good oil in a sautoir; put in the 
potatoes and artichoke bottoms, and cook while tossing to have them attain a color; drain when 
done, and add salt and butter; shake off of the fire until the butter dissolves, then add minced 
truffles cooked in Madeira wine, tossing continually in the meanwhile; serve up in a vegetable dish. 


(2806), POTATOES IN THE SHAPE OF AN OMELET (Pommes de Terre en Forme d’Omelette), 


Boil a few raw, peeled potatoes in salt and water; when cooked drain off the water, and let 
steam for five or six minutes; invert them on a clean cloth to dry all the moisture, and return them 
to a pan containing melted butter; fry for two minutes, then break by chopping them up with an 
iron palette until well crumbled, adding a little melted butter from time to time; season; brown 
nicely while tossing incessantly; lastly bring the potatoes to the front of the pan to have them all 
together, and shape the mass like a folded omelet; color it nicely, adding a little more butter, and. 
invert it on a small long dish. 


Another Way is to peel boiled cold potatoes; chop them up or else cut them in 
small three-sixteenths of an inch cubes; sauté them in a pan with clarified butter, 
season with salt and chopped parsley and let color nicely, tossing them unceasingly; 
bring the preparation forward to the front of the pan, assemble it together, and 
shape it like a folded omelet; color, adding a little more butter, and when finely 
browned drain off the fat and turn it over as an omelet on a long dish. 


(2807). POTATO SHAVINGS (Pommes de Terre en Copeaux), 


These are to be cut with a special machine (Fig. 557); they are shaped like thin 
spirals. Leave them soak in cold water for two hours, then drain well, and place 


inside a hinged double broiler to keep them apart; fry the same as the channeled 
potatoes (No. 2787). 





(2808), POTATORS SOUFFLED (Pommes de Terre Soufilées), 


Good souffléd potatoes can best be made by using those called Holland potatoes. 
First trim the raw potatoes in ovals of equal size, two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter 
wide, and then proceed to slice them lengthwise three-sixteenths of an inch inthickness. As quickly 


Fig. 557. 





VEGETABLES. | 839 


as they are cut throw them intoa bowl of cold water, leaving them in for twenty-five minutes. Heat: 
two panfuls of fat, one of fresh beef kidney suet, the other having previously been used for other 
purposes and therefore its strength being somewhat extracted, it should be clean and white. 
Wipe the sliced potatoes on a cloth, dry them thoroughly, put them in a basket and plunge them 
into the oldest fat, leaving them cook until they become soft, but do not let them take color. Re- 
y0ve and place them on a large sieve to drain and cool for a few moments, and just before serving: 
plunge the potatoes into the fresh, hot fat, toss them, remove those that do not soufflé, also those 
that souffié badly; set them to cool, and return them again to the hot fat. Should they not 
_ soufflé at the second immersion, it is useless to try again. Salt the potatoes before serving, dress. 
around the meat, or on a napkin in a separate dish. 


(2809), POTATOES IN SURPRISE (Pommes de Terre en Surprise), 


Wash and brush medium-sized potatoes, wrap them in separate sheets of damp paper; range 
on a baking tin, and cook in a slack oven for thirty to forty minutes; remove, unwrap and make an 
opening on one side of each potato; empty the contents with a small spoon (Fig. 91), pound this 
to a pulp with fresh butter, salt, nutmeg and egg-yolks; refill the potatoes, close the aperture with 
the piece removed, and lay them on a buttered baking tin, having the opening uppermost. Push. 
into aslack oven for twenty minutes, then dress on or inside of a folded napkin. 


(2810), POTATO TARTLETS (Tartelettes de Pommes de Terre), 


Prepare mashed potatoes the same as for duchess (No. 2785); make it rather firm with egg- 
yolks, butter and parmesan; with it fill some large buttered molds lined with puff paste parings (No. 
146), rolled out thin; press down well, and smooth the tops. Place on a baking sheet and push im 
a hot oven; unmold when nicely colored and dress as a garnishing or on a folded napkin. 


(2811), POTATO TIMBALE A LA PARMENTIER (Timbale de Pommes de Terre & la Parmentier). 

Remove some rounds with a three-quarter inch diameter tin tube from slices of potatoes three- 
sixteenths of an inch thick; sauté them in butter for two minutes, then drain. Line the bottom of 
a buttered timbale mold with part of these rounds, and the sides with separate rows laid on flat, 
intercalating them in such a way that a round of potato lays between two others of the next row. 
Prepare a purée with a pound of potatoes boiled in salted water, drained and covered with a damp 
cloth, then dried in the oven; rub through a sieve and stir in two ounces of butter, one whole egg, 
one yolk, salt and nutmeg. Fill the timbale with this, lay the cover over and push into a moderate 
oven to cook for half an hour or more; when removed let stand for ten minutes, and invert ona 


hot dish. 
(2812), POTATOES, VIENNESE (Pommes de Terre Viennoise), 


To be made with the same preparation as Marchioness (No. 2797); divide it into balls, roll 
these on a table, covered with rice flour, to look like a Vienna loaf,—thick in the center and 
pointed at the ends. Imitate the gashes in the center of its length, egg over twice and cook in a hot 
oven. Serve on a folded napkin. 


(2813), POTATOES WITH MINCED TRUFFLES (Pommes de Terre aux Truffes Emincées), 

Peel raw potatoes and cut them into one-inch diameter corks, then across in three-sixteenths 
of an inch slices; wash, wipe well and lay them in a thin sautoir with melted butter, seasoning 
with salt; cover and cook in a slack oven, being careful to shake them about frequently until they 
are slightly browned, then add a quarter as much minced truffles cut one inch in diameter and alk 
eighth of an inch thick; drain off the butter and baste with a small quantity of good Madeira wine, 
meat glaze (No. 402), and lemon juice. Pour into a vegetable dish and serve. 


(9814), PUMPKIN FRIED IN SMALL STICKS (Potiron en Batonnets Frits), 


Peel and remove the inside part of a pumpkin or marrow squash so that only the meat remains; 
cut two pounds of this into small sticks an inch and a half long, and three-eighths of an inch 
across; lay them in a vessel, strew salt over and let macerate for fifteen minutes, then drain, wipe 
and dip quickly in flour; plunge a few at a time into very hot fat; when cooked, drain, salt and 


dress on a napkin. 


$40 | THE: EPICUREAN. 


(2815), PURSLAIN, GREEN OR GOLDEN ALA BARBANQON (Pourpier Vert ou Doré a la 
Barbancon), 


Clean three pounds of the golden purslain; blanch in salted boiling water, drain and finish 
cooking in some good blond veal stock (No.423), thickening with a little kneaded butter (No.579), and 
adding four ounces of lean cooked ham cut in squares. Dish it up and garnish around with small 
tartlets prepared in the following manner: Cook some of the purslain in salted water after it has 
been cleaned: drain and press out all the liquid, then fry it in butter, season and add bread-crumbs 
and raw egg-yolks. Line some round tartlet molds with thin puff paste (No. 146), fill them with 
the preparation, strew over grated parmesan and cook in a moderate oven; turn them out to range 
around the purslain, laying between each one a small marinated purslain stalk dipped in light 
frying batter (No. 137) and fried to a fine color. 


(2816), COS LETTUCE A LA RUDINI—STUFFED (Romaine. Farcie & la Rudini), 


Remove the green stalk leaves from six cos lettuces; cut each one lengthwise in two, remove 
the centers or hard parts, and blanch in boiling salted water; drain properly, and lay them on a 


cloth; suppress all the hard part from the leaves and stuff each half with veal quenelle forcemeat (No. - 


92), into which mix the insides of four cooked and skinned sausages, also a coffeespoonful of finely 
cut-up chives. Roll the romaines into muff-shapes, wrap them around with fat pork, then braise 
and drain; strain and reduce the stock with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and pour this over after it 
has been well reduced. 


(2817), SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT A LA POULETTE, SAUTED WITH FINE HERBS OR 
FRIED (Salsifis ou Scorsondres & la Poulette, Sautés aux Fines Herbes ou Frits), 


Ala Poulette.—Scrape some oyster plants to remove their covering of brown skin, cut off the 


tops and thin end parts, and throw them as quickly as they are done in cold water acidulated with 
vinegar; divide them into two anda half inch lengths, and cook in a white stock (No.182), into which 
add chopped beef kidney suet and sliced lemon pulp; let cook slowly, and when they crush under 
the pressure of the finger, then drain. Sauté them colorless in butter, season, drain off the fat, 
and put ina little velouté (No. 415); roll them in the sautoir and thicken with egg-yolks and butter, 
finishing with lemon juice and chopped parsley. 


Sautéd With Fine Herbs.—Are first to be cooked the same as the poulette, then cut across in 
slices a quarter of an inch thick, and sautéd in butter, seasoning with salt, pepper, chopped parsley 
and lemon juice. 


Fried.—Prepare the same as for the poulette, drain and season with salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and chopped parsley; dip them into frying batter (No. 137), and fry slowly in plenty of hot white 
fat; drain, salt, and dress on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley on top. 


(2818), SORREL WITH GRAVY (Oseille au Jus), 


Pick some clean, tender sorrel leaves; wash well, changing the water. Put them into a sauce- 
pan with a little salt and water; dissolve while stirring with a spoon; throw the sorrel into a col- 
ander and when cold press it through a sieve. Put this purée with a little prepared white roux 
(No. 163), and cook it for a few moments while stirring; moisten with a small quantity of gravy 
(No. 404); reduce the purée, mixing well all the time; season and finish witha little half-glaze (No. 
400). 


(2819), SAUERKRAUT GARNISHED (Choucroute Garnie), 


Butter the bottom of a saucepan; lay in two pounds of fresh sauerkraut washed in several waters; 
in the center arrange a quarter of a pound of bacon and a quarter of a pound of goose or chicken 
fat; moisten to its height with broth (No. 194a), and in the middle lay an eight-ounce cervelas saus- 
age, one onion or carrot cut in four and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); cover over with 
buttered paper and cook for two hours or moré; the moistening should be reduced when the sauer- 
kraut is done; drain off the fat, take out the bacon, sausage and vegetables, and add to the sauer- 
kraut one gill of white wine, a piece of kneaded butter (No. 579) and three ounces of plain butter 
divided in small pats. Suppress the bacon rind, cut it and the sausage into slices and dzess them 


around the sauerkraut as a garnishing; thicken the sauce with some espagnole (No. 414), and serve 


separately. 





VEGETABLES. 841 


(2820). SPINAOH WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE AND WITH CREAM (fipinards & la Béchamel et 
& la Créme), 


Pick some fresh, tender spinach, using only the leaves; when well cleaned and washed in sev- 
eral waters plunge into boiling salted water. and blanch for five or six minutes; drain, refresh and 
press out every particle of moisture. Chop fine.y and put into a saucepan with hot melted butter. 
Season, place the saucepan on a brisk fire for a few moments without ceasing to stir until - 
the moistening is reduced, and finish with two spoonfuls of thick béchamel (No. 409), and another 
piece of butter. : 


With Cream.—After the spinach has been prepared as for the above, and thoroughly dried, 
add to it a little flour, moisten with cream and stir constantly. Just when ready to serve incorpo- 
rate a piece of fresh butter, then dress and garnish around with puff paste crescents or small] 
bouchées filled with béchamel (No. 411). 


(2821). SPINACH A LA NOAILLES (Epinards & la Noailles), 


Carefully pick the spinach, removing the largest stalks; wash it several times, changing the 
water, then blanch in anuntinned copper vessel with salted water, letting it boil incessantly. When 
the stalks are tender enough to crush under the pressure of the finger, drain the spinach in a 
coarse colander, refresh and drain again; press out all the water, pick over to remove any straws 
or other impurities and then chop it up; force this through a coarse sieve; place the pulp ina sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter, put the saucepan on the fire, stir continuously until the moisture is 
evaporated, then besprinkle with flour; moisten with some thick veal blond (No. 423), adding a 
little meat glaze (No. 402), salt and nutmeg. A moment befcre serving stir in a piece of fresh 
butter. The flour can be replaced by some velouté sauce (No. 415). 


(2822), SPINACH A LA ROUGEMONT (Epinards & la Rougemont). 


Have the spinach picked and prepared the same as for a la Noailles (No. 2821). Brown a piece 
of butter to hazel-nut (No. 567), put in the spinach, place the pan on a hot fire, stir continually 
until the spinach is consistent and the moisture evaporated; season with salt and nutmeg; thicken 
with espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little chicken glaze (No. 398), and fresh butter; dress it in a 
dome-form and decorate around with small bouchées of sweetbreads, mingled with very rich and 
thick financiére sauce (No. 464). 


(2823), SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE (Epinards & l'Anglaise). 


Pick and wash the spinach in several waters; blanch it in an untinned copper vessel with boil- 
ing, salted water; drain well and cut it up without chopping; now put it into a saucepan on the 
fire, season with salt and pour it into a vegetable dish, cover with small bits of fresh butter, set on 
the cover and serve very hot. 


(2824), SOUASH—MARROW—WITH PARMESAN (Citrouille au Parmesan), 

Peel the squash and cut it into quarter-inch thick slices; from these remove twent y-four round 
pieces with an inch and a quarter diameter cutter; blanch, drain, and sauté them in butter over a 
brisk fire, seasoning with salt and nutmeg; dress them in a circle, one overlapping the other, on % 
dish that is fit to be placed in the oven. Cut as much of the squash into five-eighths of an inch 
‘squares, blanch by dropping them into boiling salted water, continuing the boiling process. for 
fifteen minutes, then drain and fry them in butter, salt over, and lay them in the center of the 
irele; dredge grated parmesan cheese on top, pour on some butter, and color in a hot oven; strew 
‘chopped parsley over the surface, and when serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole. 


(2895), STRING BEANS A L’ALBANI (Haricots Verts & ]’Albani). 


String some medium-sized tender beans; cut them into lozenges, and boil in salted water 
placed in an untinned copper pan. Drain them off, sauté in butter, and thicken with a little 
velouté (No. 415) and chicken glaze (No. 398), adding the juice of a lemon. Dress, bestrew with 
chopped parsley, and surround with triangular crofitons (No. #1), on which lay quartered artichoke 
dottoms sautéd in butter, and mingled with meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. 


842 THE EHPICURBMAN, 


(2826), STRING BEANS A LA BOURGUIGNONNE (Haricots Verts & la Bourguignonne) 


Cut two ounces of onion into squares; blanch in boiling salted water, drain, and fry colorless in 
butter; add to it some lean unsmoked bacon cut in three- sixteenths of an inch squares, an equal 
quantity of lean cooked ham cut the same and fried in butter, also two pounds of cleaned string 
beans; fry until the latter have evaporated their moisture, seasoning with salt; moisten with a pint 
of stock (No. 194a), and as much red wine, and when the beans are done and the liquid reduced 
add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), butter, lemon juice, and asmall pinch of finely sliced chives. 


(2827), STRING BEANS A LA PETTIT (Haricots Verts & la Pettit), 


Prepare and cook some string beans the same as with butter (No. 2829), but they should only 
be partly done; drain, wipe, and sauté them in a sautoir with butter without allowing to attain 
color, then pour off the butter and substitute some good sweet cream; let simmer until this is 
almost reduced, seasoning with salt and nutmeg. Thicken when ready to serve with a thickening 
of egg-yolks, cream, and a small lump of fine fresh butter. 


(9828), STRING BEANS SMOTHERED (Haricots Verts Etuvés) 


Choose string beans not too small but tender and fresh; cut them up and put them into a but- 
tered sautoir, salting lightly; moisten to about their height with broth (No. 194a), cover the sauce 
pan, and cook the beans slowly, adding a little more broth as fast as it reduces. When the beans 
are done they should be dry, then baste them over with two or three spoonfuls of good thickened 
half-glaze sauce (No. 400); finish off the fire with some good fresh butter divided in small pats. 
Pour into a vegetable dish and serve. 


(2829), STRING BEANS WITH BUTTER (Haricots Verts au Beurre), 


{f the beans be young and tender leave them whole; if large and yet tender, cut them in two 
or three lengthwise fillets; string and plunge the beans into boiling water in a copper 
pan; salt and cook them over a brisk fire without covering; keep them slightly hard; drain and 
throw in cold water, then spread them quickly on a cloth to wipe away all the moisture; put them 
at once into a vessel with fresh butter divided into small pieces, and stir them about with two forks 
without breaking, or else toss until the butter is dissolved; season and serve immediately. 


(2830). SWEET POTATOES, BOILED AND WITH LOBSTER CORAL (Patates Bouillies et au 
Corail de Homard), 


This tubercle originally came from the isiand of St. Domingo, and may be prepared in various 
ways. 

Boiled.—Wash, cut off the ends, and lay them in a large-mesh basket; cook them by steam for 
twenty minutes or else in boiling water. They can be served either in their skins or peeled. 


With Lobster Coral.—After the sweet potatoes are boiled, cut them into olive-shapes; lay them 
in a vegetable dish, pour melted butter over, and strew the top with finely chopped lobster coral. 


(2831), SWEET POTATOES SOUFFLED AND SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES (Patates 
Soufflées et Oroquettes de Patates), 


Souffléd.—Cut them up raw into quarter-inch slices, pare them oval-shaped two and three- 
quarters by one and a half inches, then fry slowly in white fat to have them cook without 
coloring or stiffening; drain and ten minutes later throw them back into hot fat; they should 
puff out considerably. 


Croquettes.—After the potatoes are roasted cut them lengthwise in two and empty out the 
insides; to this add salt, nutmeg, egg-yolks and fresh butter; mix well together, and when the 
preparation is thoroughly cold roll it up into inch and three-quarter diameter balls, dip them in 
eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden brown; dress in a circle, having a bunch 
of fried parsley to decorate the center. 


(2832), SWEET POTATOES ROASTED AND BROILED (Patates Roties et Grillées), 


In the Oven.—Wash and cut off both ends, pare them olive-shaped, lay them on a baking pan, 
cover with butter and roast in a moderate oven for about thirty minutes; when done serve inside 
of a folded napkin. 





VEGETABLES. 843 


Broiled.—In order to have them broiled cut some steam-boiled, peeled potatoes in slices three- 
eighths of an inch thick, then trim olive-shaped and lay them in a double broiler; salt and coat 
over with melted butter and broil on a slow fire; dress them inside a folded napkin. 


(2833), TOMATOES A LA BOQUILLON (Tomates & la Boquillon). 


Have very plump tomatoes, plunge them into boiling water, peel off the skins and cut them 
into four pieces; place these in a saucepan with salt, pepper, fresh butter and sugar, cover and let 
cook on a brisk fire for a few moments; they are then ready to serve. 


(2834), TOMATOES A LA FROSSART (Tomates & la Frossart), 


From the stalk end of the tomatoes suppress with a pastry cutter a round piece an inch and a 
half in diameter; empty out the insides, drain and fill them with chicken forcemeat (No. 75), 
adding to it as much foies-gras from a terrine pressed through a sieve, truffles, mushrooms, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and grated parmesan. Fill the tomatoes through a pocket 
and bake them in a slack oven for fifteen minutes. Range them in a circle, pour Madeira sauce 
(No. 492) in the center and on each tomato lay a round piece of glazed truffle. 


(2835), TOMATOES, PROVENGAL STYLE—STUFFED (Tomates Farcies & la Provengale), 


Tomatoes for stuffing must be selected of uniform size; cut off the tops an inch and a half 
in diameter, extract all the seeds, salt the insides and then drain; fill them with the following prep- 
aration: Fry some finely chopped onions in oil with a little crushed garlic and finely chopped mush- 
rooms; when these have rendered up their moisture add chopped parsley, moisten with espagnole- 
sauce (No. 414) and meat glaze (No. 402), season and thicken with bread-crumbs. Fill the tomatoes, 
range them on a baking tin, cover the tops with bread-crumbs, pour oil over and bake for half an 
hour in a moderate oven. : 


(2836), TOMATOES A LA TREVISE (Tomates & la Trévise). 


Cut twelve medium, sound tomatoes across in two through their thickest part; extract all the 
liquid and lay them one beside the other on a buttered baking tin. Have a pint of good white. 
wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), into which pour four tablespoonfuls of tomato purée (No. 730) 
and sufficient bread-crumbs to thicken, adding salt, pepper, a quarter of a pound of finely chopped 
ham and chopped parsley. Fill the halved tomatoes with this preparation, dredge bread-crumbs 
and grated parmesan over, pour on some oil and let brown nicely in a hot oven; dress them on 
top of a buttered thickened half-glaze sauce (No. 413), mixing into it more butter and lemon juice. 


(2837), TOMATOES BAKED (Tomates Gratinées), 


Remove the skins by plunging the tomatoes into boiling water; cut each one across in two, 
press out the seeds and lay them in a large frying pan with melted butter; season and reduce alk 
their moisture. Range them ina buttered baking dish, the round parts on the bottom and scatter 
over cooked fine herbs, composed of shallot fried in butter with chopped mushrooms, chopped ham, 
parsley and bread-crumbs; pour butter or oil over and bake for fifteen minutes in a slack oven. 


(2838), TOMATOES BROILED, HOT MAYONNAISE SAUCE (Tomates Grillées, & la Sauce Mayonnaise 
Chaude), 


Throw some sound tomatoes in boiling water to remove the skin; cut them across in two, 
season with salt and pour oil over. Place them on a hinged double broiler and broil on a slow fire,. 
basting frequently with oil. Dress them on a hot dish and cover with hot mayonnaise sauce (No. 


433). The mayonnaise sauce may be served separately if desired. 


Tomatoes are frequently served broiled without any sauce, simply cooked as above. 

(9839), TOMATOES IN CASES, BAKED (Tomates en Caisses Gratinées), 

o boiling water to peel off their skins readily; cut them in two 

out all the liquid and seeds and fill them with a forcemeat 

vd-crumbs and as much cooked fine 
Lay each half tomato in an 

grated parmesan over, baste 


Throw some tomatoes int 
through their thickest part, press 
made with cold chicken meat, cut from the legs, as much bree 
herbs (No. 885) as bread; season well and stir in a few egg-yolks. 
oiled case (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven, bestrew bread-crumbs and 


with butter and bake in a moderate oven. 


$44 THE EBPICURHAN. 


(2840), TOMATOES, QUEEN STYLE (Tomates & la Reine), 


Throw some small tomatoes an inch and three-quarters to two inches in diameter into boiling 
water; peel off the skins and open them on top, then take out the seeds, salt the insides and drain 
off all their water. Fill them with well-seasoned chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), adding to 
it the same amount of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and on top lay a channeled mushroom (No, 118), 
then cover with a thin bard of fat pork. Arrange the tomatoes on a buttered baking tin and set 
them in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes; dress in a circle and pour in the center a well- 
buttered supréme sauce (No. 547), adding chopped-up truffles to it. . 


(2841), TOMATOES A LA GIBBON S—SAUTED AND FRIED (Tomates Sautées et Frites & la 
Gibbons). 


Split the tomatoes in two through their thickness, drain off their liquid and season; sauté 
them in butter and oil, half of each, strew over chopped parsley and place them in the center of a 
dish; garnish around with fried tomatves prepared as follows: Plunge some small tomatoes in 
boiling water, peel and cut them in four even parts; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, 
dip them into frying batter (No. 187), then in hot frying fat, drain, salt and arrange them around 
the sautéd tomatoes. 


(2842), TOMATOES STUFFED WITH FRESH MUSHROOMS (Tomates Farcies aux Champignons 
Frais), 


Chop up some clean fresh mushrooms, fry a chopped onion, and add it to these, and con- 
tinue to fry until all the moisture is evaporated, then season and remove from the fire. Bind 
*t with a little sauce, then with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs soaked and pressed, a few 
vaw egg-yolks, adding some chopped parsley. Select fine, sound tomatoes, smooth and round, of 
even size, but not too large nor too ripe; cut out a piece from the top in order to open and empty 
out partially, then salt and drain them for a quarter of an hour, filling them afterward with the 
mushroom preparation, and smoothing the tops nicely. Range the tomatoes in a small bordered 
baking pan, bestrew them with bread-crumbs and pour over some oil; cook for three-quarters of an 
hour in a slow oven. 


(2843). TRUFFLES IN A NAPKIN OR IN A CROUSTADE (Truffes en Serviette ou en Croustade), 


Choose one pound of the finest medium-sized, round and well- marbled truffles; clean and 
brush over; wrap each one separately in a thin slice of fresh pork. Fry slowly in butter without 
coloring one ounce of raw lean ham, cut from the kernel and the sinews removed, as much 
carrot and the same of onions, all three to becut in eighth of an inch pieces, one bay leaf, 





thyme, a small slice of garlic and one: clove. When these ingredients have been fried colorless 
moisten with a quarter of a bottleful of champagne or white wine and let boil, then skim and sim- 
mer for twenty minutes. Add the truffles and cook slewly for ten minutes; thicken the stock very 
slightly with a bit of kneaded butter (No. 579) and close the saucepan hermetically; set it in a bain- 
marie for half an hour. Dress the truffles in a folded napkin (Fig. 557). Butter the sauce, pass it 
through a tammy and serve it in a sauce-boat the same time as the truffles. These can also be 
dressed in a basket made of border paste (No. 131), decorated with fanciful cuts made of the same 
paste, or even one made of carved bread. In either case have the basket very tasteful and 
elegant and spread out open on the top. | 





VEGETABLES. _ 845, 


(2844), TRUFFLES IN SHELLS, BAKED (Truffes en Coquilles, Gratinées), 


Peel some truffles and put the parings into a saucepan with a little Madeira wine, parsley, 
thyme and bay leaf; let boil and leave in a bain-marie (Fig. 122) for half an hour. Out the truffles. 
in three-sixteenths inch slices, warm them in butter, drain this off and replace it by thick béchamel 
(No. 409), the above truffle essence and cream, seasoning with salt, nutmeg, prepared red pepper 
(No. 168) and Madeira wine, then reduce. Butter some silver shells (Fig. 488), strew over with 
bread-crumbs and fill with the truffles, then sprinkle over more bread-crumbs and grated parme- 
san; pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven; serve. The minced truffles can be replaced 
by small whole ones trimmed into balls or olives. 


(2845), TRUFFLES STUFFED (Truffes Farcies), 


Select seven or eight large, unpeeled truffles, having them very clean, round and of equal size;. 
put them into a narrow saucepan one beside the other and cook them for eight or ten minutes. 
while covered, adding salt and white or Madeira wine; leave them to get partly cold in this stock. 
Place in a small saucepan a few spoonfuls of cooked purée of foies-gras; mingle with it a little 
good reduced and thickened Madeira sauce (No. 492), add some raw egg-yolks and seasoning. 
Drain the truffles, cut a round piece from the top, remove it and empty the insides with a vege- 
table spoon (Fig. 91); cut up a part of these removed pieces and add them to the foies-gras. Use- 
this preparation to fill the truffles; close the opening with the removed cover and return them to. 
the original saucepan with a little of their broth and a little melted glaze (No. 402): heat them 
for ten minutes while basting, then remove and cook the contents, while covered, for seven or eight 
minutes longer, off the fire. Dress them in a vegetable dish and pour over their own stock. 


(2846), TRUFFLE TIMBALE A LA PERIGORD (Timbale de Truffes & la Périgord), 


Decorate a timbale mold with fanciful cuts of noodle paste (No. 142); dampen these and line 
the mold with a layer of fine foundation paste (No. 135) an eighth of an inch in thickness; cover 
both bottom and sides of the timbale with very thin bards of fresh fat pork. Peel as many 
medium-sized truffles as the timbale will hold, having them black and mellow; put them to cook in 
a foies-gras terrine, seasoning with salt, pepper, nutmeg, sprigs of parsley, thyme and_ bay leaf, 
also some minced ham and Madeira wine; place the terrine in the oven and as soon as the liquid 
comes to a boil take it out and let stand till cold, leaving the truffles in with the stock. Suppress. 
the thyme and bay leaf, drain off the stock and reduce it with a pint of financiére sauce (No. 464) 
reduced to the consistency of a succulent sauce; transfer the truffles to the timbale, cover with a 
part of the sauce and lay over a flat of the same paste. Cook the timbale in a hot oven for three- 
quarters of an hour and serve unmolded; pour the remainder of the sauce into an aperture on top; 


serve at once. 


(2847). TURNIPS GLAZED (Navets Glacés), 


Prepare some cylindricals of turnips one inch in diameter and one and a half inches long, hay- 
ing them beveled on both ends; blanch these in salted water, refresh and when well drained put 
them into a frying pan containing very hot butter. Color and season with salt and a pinch of 
sugar; drain once more, then place them in a sautoir and moisten with broth (No. 194a). When 


cooked the liquid should be reduced to a glaze. 


(2848). TURNIPS. WITH SPANISH, BECHAMEL OR ALLEMANDE SAUCE (Navets & la Sauce 
Espagnole & la sauce Béchamel ou & la sauce Allemande), 


Trim some turnips into seven-eighths of an inch balls, or in the shape of crescents, olives or 


cloves of garlic; blanch in salted water, drain and sauté them colorless in butter, seasoning with 


salt and sugar; drain off the butter, lay them in a saucepan, and moisten with gravy (No. 404) and 
espagnole sauce (No. 414), finishing to cook quite slowly. The espagnole sauce can be replaced by 
béchamel sauce and cream (No. 411), or else allemande sauce (No. 407) and broth (No. 194a), fin- 


ishing with chicken glaze (No. 398) and fresh butter. “ 


846 | ‘THE EFICURHAN. 








(9849), TELTOW TURNIPS WITH CHESTNUTS (Navets de Teltow aux | 


Scrape and throw the turnips into tepid water, then plunge into boiling salted 
in a well-tinned saucepan; boil over a moderate fire, and when done drain and put ‘them b 
a saucepan with a piece of butter and a little sugar; toss for a few moments, and n moiste 
broth (No. 194a); season and thicken with a little acs into nes stir some “fi . 


eo 


EGGS (Gufs). 














Fia. 558, 


(2850), EGGS (Gufs), 


The eggs of chickens are most generally used. Boiled eggs should be moderately cooked; they 
are the most nourishing and easily digested; duck eggs are as nutritive as those of chickens. 
After these, the best are pheasant eggs, but they are very scarce. In order to discover whether 
an egg be fresh, hold it against the light of a candle, and if transparent without being spotted 
then it is fresh. 

The white of an egg consists of one part of albumen and one part solid matter, this appearing 
as an envelope to the albuminous liquid, and has the appearance of white flakes, also of a fatty 
sabstance formed of olein and stearine. 

The yolk is composed partly of albumen, partly of a fatty matter containing olein, and another 
part that is colored, besides one of a solid membranous composition. 


(2851). EGGS AU MIROIR A LA JOCKEY OLUB (Gufs au Miroir & la Jockey Club). 


Suppress the thin skin from one half of a white veal kidney; divide it, take out the fibrous 
fat, and then cut the meat into small dice. Heat some butter in a pan, put with it the kidneys, 
season and toss on a bright fire to have them cook rapidly, then remove with a skimmer, and set 
into a small vessel. Into the pan the kidneys were stewed in put two or three spoonfuls of half- 
glaze sauce (No. 418), and as much tomato purée (No. 730), reduce all to a third, mixingin a spoon- 
ful of Madeira wine; boil up once or twice, then take it from the fire and return the kidneys, also 
half as much cooked truffles cut exactly the same size as these; the sauce should be consistent. 
Cook six eggs au mirior on a large buttered dish, that is, baste the egg yolk with boiling butter 
several times while cooking in the oven; this will make them very glossy; cut them into rounds 
with a pastry cutter (three inches in diameter), take up with a palette, and dress in a circle on the 
bottom of a dish; heat the kidneys without boiling, and dress them inside the circle. 


(2852), EGGS AU MIROIR A LA LULLY (Gufs au Miroir & la Lully’. 


Butter a large dish or baking pan; break in six eggs, pour boiling butter over the yolks, and put 
in a very hot oven or under a salamander (Fig.123); when done properly cut them rounded with a 


pastry cutter two and a quarter to two and a half inches in diameter; take them up with a large 
(847) 


848 THE EPICUREAN. 


palette and dress on a dish on slices of ham of the same dimensions, and three-sixteenths of an 
inch thick, and the ham on croutons of fried bread cut the same, having taken them from the 















































Fia. 559. 


kernel part of a good raw ham; fry them in butter in a pan, turning them over. Fill the center of 
this circle with a hash made of sliced end seasoned ducks’ livers mingled with a little brown Madeira 
wine sauce (No. 492). 


(2853). EGGS AU MIROIR A-LA MEYERBEER (Eufs au Miroir & la Meyerbeer). 


Peel off the skin from two mutton kidneys; ‘split them lengthwise on the roundest side without. 
separating the parts, run two small wooden skewers through each kidney, season and roll in oil, 
then broil for eight or ten minutes, turning them over in the meanwhile. ‘Cook two eggs in a china. 
dish (Fig. 567), having them glossy on top; cut them round- shaped with a two ‘and a half inch 
pastry cutter and take them up with a palette and dress on a hot dish with some tomato ‘sauce: 
(No. 549) underneath. After removing the kidneys from the fire glaze them with a brush, pull 
out the skewers and divide each one in two. Dress them on both sides of the eggs, the cut'side 
uppermost, and fill the hollow with a consistent Périgueux sauce (No. 517); serve. 


(2854)' EGGS AU MIROIR A LA PROVENCAL (Gufs au Miroir a la Provencale),. 


Pick out three or four even-sized tomatoes, cut them through their thickest part in two, sup- 
press the seeds and put them into a pan with some oil; season and cook on both sides until they 
have reduced their moisture, then take them from the pan and dress on a serving dish capable of 
being put in the oven; bestrew with chopped parsley mingled with a bit of garlic and a pinch of 
dry bread-crumbs, pour over some oil and let brown for ten minutes; remove and lay on top of 
each tomato one miroired egg cut round with a pastry cutter two and a quarter inches in diameter. 


(2855), EGGS AU MIROIR ALA TIVOLIER (CEufs au Miroir & la Tivolier), 


Toast some slices of bread cut into rounds two and a half inches across and on each one place: 
a layer of chopped marrow; set into a hot oven. Fry raw ham cut in one-eighth inch squares. 
in a pan with lard; drain this off and finish with butter, meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. 
Fry some eggs in a pan; gloss by putting them in the oven and sprinkling with boiling butter; 
dress the marrow toasts with the ham around; pare the eggs with a two and a half inch pastry 
cutter, lift them up one after the other to place on top of the toast. Dress in a circle, garnish 
around with the tomatoes and serve with'a good Madeira sauce‘ (No. ee ates! es 
parsley over the whole. . 


(2856), BOILED EGGS (Gufs 4 la Coque), 


When only a few eggs are required proceed as follows: Boil some water in a saucepan,, 
remove it from the fire, and plunge the eggs into the liquid with a skimmer, being careful not to 
break the shells; cover the saucepan to allow the water to boil up again, and 
from this time cook the eggs for three minutes. Should they be large or freshly 
laid take the saucepan off after three minutes, leaving the eggs one minute: 
longer in the liquid. 

Eggs may also be plunged into cold water, put over a brisk fire and taken 
off at the first boil. 


Another Way is to plunge them into boiling water and let cook for one minute 
after the water has boiled up again, then withdraw the vessel from the fire, and leave them in the 
water for five minutes. Eggs are cooked by steam in four minutes. The ordinary method is the first 
mentioned. However it is very difficult to tell exactly how long to boil an egg, for some like them: 
scarcely heated through, while others prefer the whites slightly hard. Boiled eggs are generally 
eaten from their shells with a spoon, but many empty the contents into a glass or cup, seasoning: 
with salt, pepper, and a little fresh butter, then mixing thoroughly. Boiled eggs should be served 
in folded napkins or in imitated chickens made of china. 








EGGS. , | 349 


(2857), HARD-BOILED EGGS AND AURORA (CEufs Durs et 3 1’Aurore). 


These should not be cooked too long, still they only attain a proper degree after they have: 
boiled ten to twelve minutes. On removing from the fire they must be thrown into cold water, 
and left to cool for at least fifteen minutes; drain and shell, without injuring any of the white: 
part, which should remain intact. 


Aurora.—Cut lengthwise in halves eight hard-boiled eggs; take out the yolks and divide: 
each halved white in four parts; put these in a sautoir, season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 
168) and nutmeg, and dilute with well-reduced béchamel (No. 409), into which mix finely cut-up- 
chives; dress this in a baking dish. Rub the yolks through a wire sieve directly over the eggs, 
besprinkle with salt, brush over with hazel-nut butter (No. 567), and heat for a few moments in a. 
hot oven; serve at once. The chives may be replaced by mushrooms and truffles, both finely- 
minced, adding to the bechamél a quarter as much soubise sauce (No. 548). 


(2858), HARD-BOILED EGGS A LA BENNETT (Gufs Durs & la Bennett), 


Boil eight eggs hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); shell and lay them in tepid water- 
until needed. Mince eight ounces of white onions, blanch for a few moments in salted water, drain 
and wipe on a cloth; lay these in a saucepan on a fire with melted butter; fry slowly while stirring: 
until they be cooked, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; thicken with béchamel (No. 409), 
having reduced it with a little mushroom broth and melted meat-glaze (No. 402); add as much 
minced mushrooms as onions, and an ounce of fresh butter, and then drain the eggs, wipe and cut 
them crosswise, remove the yolks, press them through a sieve and mix well with the sauce. This- 
sauce must be succulent but not too thick; strain it through a tammy. Dress the white parts in. 
layers intercalated with the onion and the mushroom stew and pour the sauce over. 


(2859). HARD-BOILED EGGS A LA BENOIST (Eufs Durs & la Benoist). 


Cook six eggs, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); shell and cut them lengthways in two; re- 
move the yolks and rub these through a sieve. Prepare a well-reduced béchamel (No. 409) thickened 
with raw egg-yolks; when cold mix in the six cooked egg-yolks, as much mushrooms, and half as: 
many truffles as mushrooms, all to be chopped up separately, and then beat in three very stiffly 
beaten egg-whites. Cover the bottom of a dish with a layer of veal godiveau (No. 85) with chives, 
having it a quarter of an inch thick; replace the egg-yolks by-a little montglas and fasten the two 
halves together; lay these reshaped eggs over the godiveau and cover the whole with the beaten egg. 
preparation; pour over butter, push in a moderate oven to heat the eggs well and color them nicely- 


(2860), HARD-BOILED EGGS WITH NOODLES A LA GAROLLI (Gufs Durs aux Nouilles 4 1a. 
Carolli), 


Blanch some finely shredded noodles in salted water for three minutes, drain and lay them in. 
a saucepan with salt and nutmeg; leave to simmer for a few moments, then range them on 
a vegetable dish with grated parmesan strewn over. Boil eight eggs hard, the same as 
Aurora (No. 2857), cut them across in slices, dress them in layers over the noodles, then a layer of 
minced fresh mushrooms; season each one of these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and mask the 
surface with béchamel (No. 409) reduced with the mushroom broth, seasoned with prepared red 
pepper (No. 168) and well buttered. Strew the top with grated parmesan and melted butter and 
bake in a hot oven. 


(2861). HARD-BOILED EGGS A LA GIBSON (Cnufs Durs & la Gibson), 


Mince some drained, blanched celery-roots; fry them colorless in butter, then cook in broth 
(No. 194a) with a little sugar; reduce the liquid to a glaze, add some béchamel (No. 409) and 
thicken with eight hard egg-yolks pounded with as much butter and then rubbed through a sieve; 
add also the whites of these eight eggs minced up finely and mix them together with the sauce. 
Butter and bread-crumb eight small silver shells (Fig. 488); fill them with the prepared eggs, strew 
bread-crumbs and parmesan over, baste with butter and bake in a hot oven. 


(2862), HARD-BOILED EGGS A LA WASHBURN (Cufs Durs & la Washburn). 
Take the whites ot eight hard-boiled eggs; cut them in thin slices or in quarter-inch dice, also 
some cooked truffles and mushrooms; with these fill eight medium-sized shells (Fig. 438), alter- 
nating the three different ingredients; cover with some reduced soubise (No. 543). Smooth 


850 THE EPICUREAN. 


to a dome and mask this with a thin layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); dredge white 
bread-crumbs over all, pour on a little melted butter and bake for two minutes in the oven; serve 
at once. 


(2863). HARD-BOILED EGG CROQUETTES (Croquettes d’Giufs Durs), 
Chop twelve cold hard-boiled eggs in three-sixteenths inch squares, also half a pound of mush- 
rooms the same size. Reduce a quart of béchamel (No. 409), season and add to it a little meat 





Fic. 561. 


glaze (No. 402) and chopped truffles, mix in the egg salpicon and take off at the first boil. When 
this preparation is cold form it into croquettes, either round, cylindrical or flat ovals; immerse 
them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry toa fine color; drain, salt and serve on a folded napkin 
with sprigs of fried parsley on top. 


(2864). HARD-BOILED EGGS, NEW YORK STYLE (Gufs Durs a la New Yorkaise), 


Have six eggs boiled hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); shell and split them lengthwise 
in two; remove the yolks and pound them in a mortar with an ounce of melted butter, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, two raw egg-yolks and a gill of béchamel (No. 409), beating the whole well together; then 
stir in half as much chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Fill the halved eggs with this prep- 
aration, rounding the tops well; range a layer of this same on the bottom of a dish, lay the 
stuffed eggs over, pour on some butter and dredge with parmesan cheese; push into a moderate 
oven to heat and brown to a fine color; pour Colbert sauce (No. 451) around and serve. 


(2865). HARD-BOILED EGGS, RUSSIAN STYLE (Gufs Durs a la Russe.) 


Boil six eggs hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); cut them in two lengthwise, remove 
the yolks, and chop up separately two ounces of ham, four ounces of tongue, and four ounces of 
chicken, mingling all together with béchamel sauce (No. 409); pound the yolks with half as much 
butter. Put a bed of the chicken salpicon on a dish capable of going into the oven, range the halved 
egg-whites over and cover with the remainder of it; bestrew with bread-crumbs and parmesan 
cheese, pour over butter and bake in a moderate oven; decorate around with some round caviare 
canapés (No. 777) and serve. 


(2866), FRIED EGGS A LA EUGENE ANDRE (Gufs Frits Eugéne André) 


Cut tomatoes in two through their thickness, press out and fry in oil with shallots, a little gar- 
lic and chopped parsley; finish with a little meat glaze (No. 402). Dress in a circle, filling the 





Fia. 562. 


center with cepes fried in oil, with fine herbs, lemon juice and a little brown sauce (No. 414). 
Heat some butter in a pan and when very hot slip in the eggs broken beforehand on a plate; season 
the whites with salt and scald the yolks with boiling butter; when the eggs are fried, slip them 
over the tomatoes and cépes and serve. 


(2867). FRIED EGGS A LA MONTEBELLO (Gufs Frits & la Montebello). 


Poach some eggs; when cold pare and wipe on a cloth; season and roll simply in flour 
then plunge them into hot frying fat, and as soon as dry and nicely colored remove with a skim- 
mer, drain on a cloth and lay each one on a plain crofiton of bread sautéd in clarified butter. 
Dress the eggs on a dish and cover over with Montebello sauce (No. 502). 





EGGS, 851 


(2868). FRIED EGGS, NEAPOLITAN STYLE, TURNED OVER (Gufs Frits des deux Cotés & la 
Napolitaine), 

Heat either oil, lard or butter in a small, deep pan; incline it slightly, and break an egg in 
the liquid; cook and bring it over with a perforated spoon to have it attain a long, well-rounded 
shape; as soon as done drain, and cook another one the same way, until sufficient are ready, and 
when all are well drained lay each one on a separate crotiton (No. 51). Dress in a circle, and 
fill the center with Neapolitan macaroni (No. 2960); pour over the eggs some tomato sauce (No. 
549) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and good gravy (No. 404). 


(2869), FRIED EGGS TURNED OVER—A LA SOLE (Gufs Frits des Deux Cdtés—a la Sole), 


Break two eggs on a plate and season: pour some clarified butter in a small pan, and when it 
reaches hazel-nut (No. 567), slip in the eggs carefully, and pour more butter over. When they are 
cooked underneath, turn them over, and a minute after slide them ona dish with the butter; 
baste over with a coffeespoonful of good vinegar heated in a pan. 


(2870), FRIED EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER (Cnfs Frits au Beurre Noir). 


Break four or five eggs into a frying pan containing some hot butter; scald the yolks with the 
butter, and cook until glossy; season, remove carefully with a large skimmer, and lay them ona 
dish. Put more butter into the pan, and when slightly brown without burning, strain it over 
the eggs; put a little vinegar in the frying pan, and pour it over the eggs through a strainer. 


(2871), FRIED EGGS WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY (iufs Frits au Persil haché), 


Heat clarified butter in a small pan; break two very fresh eggson a plate, season with salt, and 
pour them carefully in the pan; fry slowly, and then slip them on a dish, throwing over a little 
chopped parsley. 


(2872). FRIED EGGS WITH HAM OR BAOON (CEufs Frits au Jambon ou au Petit Salé), 


Broil on a slow fire either some ham or bacon; put one or the other on a dish, and slip fried 
eggs over it. 


(2873), EGGS MOLDED A LA BEDFORD—IN COCOTTES AND EGGS COCOTTES (Cufs Moulés en 
Cocottes & la Bedford et CEufs Cocottes), 


Cover the bottoms and sides of a few cocottes, a small earthen saucepan standing on three 
feet, able to go in the oven (Fig. 563), with a layer of liver baking force- 
meat (No. 64), thickened with a little raw forcemeat thinned with duxelle 
sauce (No. 461) and Madeira wine; break a fresh egg over, season the 
white with salt and pour a little hot butter over the top. Place these 
cocottes in a sautoir containing a little hot water; poach the eggs for 
eight to ten minutes in a slack oven, and after removing bestrew with 
truffles and cooked beef tongue, cut either in small dice or chopped up; dress the cocottes on a dish 
or on a folded napkin. — ee eee | ; 
Eggs Cocottes.—Have small cocottes (Fig. 563); butter the interiors and cover the bottoms with 
a preparation made with a few finely chopped shallots, slightly fried in butter, to which add a few 
finely chopped fresh mushrooms; after these have evaporated all their moisture, add some chopped 
parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped truffles. Break an egg in each cocotte, pour boiling hot 
melted butter over and stand the cocottes on a baking sheet; push intoa medium hot oven for 


ten minutes, then serve. 





Fig. 563. 


(2874). EGGS MOLDED A LA COLBERT—IN 
CASES (Gufs Moulés en Oaisses & la Colbert. 


Butter a few china cases, covering the bottom 
and sides with a chopped raw truffle preparation 
mingled with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75). Srey 


In the hollow center of each break a fresh | 
egg, season the top and butter over with a brush; place the cases on a small raised-edge baking 


pan having hot water at the bottom, and poach them for six to eight minutes in a slack oven; 
after removing wipe nicely and cover the tops with a layer of Colbert sauce (No, 451). 








852 TIIE EPICUREBKAN. 


(2875), EGGS MOLDED A L'ECHIQUIER—IN CASES (Cufs Moulés en Caisses & l’Echiquier), 


Prepare a paste with fresh lobster butter (No. 580), an equal amount of white bread-crumbs, 
some chopped parsley and half as much cooked and chopped crawfish or lobster tail. With this 
paste cover the bottom and sides of some round china cases shaped the same as the paper cases 
shown in Fig. 439, leaving an empty space in the center, and into this break a fresh egg; season 
and cover with a Jittle butter. Set the cases on a small baking pan containing a little hot water, 
push it into a slack oven and cook the eggs; pour a little velouté sauce (No. 415), over each egg, 
having it well buttered with lobster butter, and sprinkle chopped lobster coral over the whole. 


(2876), EGGS MOLDED A LA PARISIAN, ALSO OALLED TALLEYRAND, POLIGNAC, POLISH 
SOYER (Gufs Moulés a la Parisienne, Dits Talleyrand, Polignac, Soyer). 


Eggs & la Parisienne are molded in mousseline molds (No. 1, Fig. 138), or else in oyal ones 
of the same size. Cut two truffles into small dice; butter eight molds, strew the insides with 
the truffles and into each one break a whole fresh egg, salt and baste the top with a little butter; 
lay the molds in a sautoir with hot water reaching to half their height, and poach in a moderate 
oven for eight to ten minutes; when done to perfection turn out the eggs on a dish, covering the — 
bottom of it with a little poivrade sauce (No. 522). Instead of buttering the molds they may be 
wetted in the inside with melted meat glaze (No. 402) and bestrewn with chopped parsley, truffles, 
mushrooias or cooked red beef tongue, or else a mixture of all these. 


(2877). EGGS MOLDED WITH FOIES-GRAS—IN CASES (Cufs Moulés en Caisses aux Foies-Gras). 


Brush over with butter six round crimped paper cases (Fig. 439) having them three inches across 
at the opening, two at the bottom, and an inch anda quarter high. Rub a little paté-de-foies-gras 
from a terrine through a fine sieve, and mix slowly into it some melted glaze (No. 402), and as. 
much chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) as foies-gras. Spread a layer of this on the bottom of 
each case, poach the forcemeat in a slack oven, and then break an egg on top of each one; scald 
the yolks with hot melted butter applied with a brush; season the whites with salt, and range 
the cases on a grate; lay this on a baking-sheet, and cook the eggs in a slow oven from eight to ten 
minutes, then place each case inside another paper one, having it larger and very clean, and dress. 
cn a folded napkin. The foies-gras forcemeat can be replaced by one of fish, game or chicken, with 
@ salpicc. of either shrimps, mushrooms or truffles. | 


(2878), ARGENTINE OMELET (Omelette a l'Argentine), 


Break six fresh eggs in a bowl; season with salt and white pepper; beat with a whip or fork, 
and strain through a strainer into another vessel; beat again with a few bits of butter laid here 
and there. Set an omelet panon a hot fire, and in it have three ounces of very hot butter; skim, then 
pour in the eggs all at once; stir lightly with a spoon, and when the eggs begin to thicken bring 





























tnem forward in the pan; fill the center with peeled eggplant cut in quarter-inch squares, fried in 
butter and thickened with a little half-glaze (No. 400). Close the omelet with a single stroke of the 
handle, remove the pan from the fire, and with the spoon close it entirely. Put more butter in 
the pan, and incline it so that it can slip under the omelet, then color it nicely, and turn it over 
on a dish; garnish around with an Argentine sauce (No. 429). 


(2879), BACON OMELET (Omelette au Petit Salé), 


For three raw eggs cut one ounce of bacon in quarter-inch thick slices; suppress the rind, and 
cut into small quarter-inch squares after paring off the smoked parts that cover the bacon; fry these 
pieces in butter, add the eggs, and finish the same as parsley omelet (No. 2903). 


EGGS. 853 


(2880), BEEF PALATE OR LAMB'S TROTTERS OMELET (Omelette au Palais de Bouf ou aux 
| Pieds d’Agneau), 


Cut some beef palates or boned lamb’s trottersin quarter-inch squares, and put them into a 
bordelaise sauce (No. 486); fill the interior of an omelet with the preparation, pouring the sauce 
around. 


(2881), BERTINI OMELET (Omelette & la Bertini), 


Prepare and cook an omelet the same as Argentine (No. 2878). Pour into arisot, thickened 
with parmesan, a little half-glaze (No. 400) and velouté (No. 415) and with it fill the omelet. Cut 
some celery hearts or roots in quarter-inch squares, blanch, cook in broth (No. 194a) and let fall to 
a glaze; add velouté reduced with white wine, season and pour this around the dressed omelet. 


(2882), BONVALET OMELET (Omelette Bonvalet), 


Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter with two ounces of chopped morils or mush- 
rooms; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, marinated tunny fish cut in quarter-inch squares, 
meat glaze (No. 402) and cooked ham cut in three-sixteenths of an inch pieces. With these ingre- 
dients fillan omelet, and finish it the same as an Argentine (No. 2878); pour around an espagnole 
sauce (No. 414) containing minced gherkins. 


(2883). CHEESE OMELET—SWISS OR PARMESAN--WITH CRUSTS AND FONDUE (Omelette au 
Fromage de Gruyére ou au Parmesan aux Orotites Garnies de Fondue), 


Beat up eight eggs in a bowl and season; mix in four spoonfuls of fresh Swiss cheese cut up in 
small dice, adding two spoonfuls of grated parmesan, and also one of grated Swiss, then a piece of 
y good butter divided in small pats. Make the omelet over a good fire, fold and turn it on to an oval 
dish; surround both sides with small round hollowed crusts (No. 52) filled with fondue (No. 2954). 


(2884), CHICKEN LIVER OMELET (Omelette aux Foies de Volaille). 


Cut some chicken livers in three-eighths of an inch squares; sauté them in butter, dilute with 
a little Madeira winé and half-glaze (No. 400); fill the inside of the omelet with this, and finish the 
same as Argentine (No. 2878), pouring the sauce around. 


(2885), CLAM OMELET—HARD AND SOFT (Omelette aux Lucines Molles et Dures). 


Blanch small clams; remove the hard parts and mix in well-buttered allemande sauce (No. 
407); fill the inside of an Argentine omelet with this, and pour what remains of the sauce around. 


(2886). OREAM OMELET—PLAIN (Omelette Nature a la Créme). 


Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, season and beat lightly, mixing in a few small pieces of 
butter and two spoonfuls of raw cream. Melt some fresh butter in an omelet pan, pour in the eggs, 
stir quickly with a large spoon and thicken properly, keeping the omelet mellow; when it detaches 
from the bottom bring it forward to roll over; turn it rapidly on a long dish and form it prettily, 
shaping the ends under so as to have them pointed; brush the surface with melted butter and 


throw over some chopped parsley. 


(2887), DESJARDINS OMELET (Omelette & la Desjardins), 


Fry in oil (for three eggs) one peeled tomato cut across in two, pressed and divided in small 
three-eighth inch squares, half as much minced fresh mushrooms, a little onion cut in squares and 
fried in butter, olives cut in eight pieces, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, chopped parsley and meat-glaze 
(No. 402). With this preparation fill the inside of a parsley omelet (No. 2903); decorate the top 
with thin anchovy fillets to imitate lozenges; fill each one of these through a cornet with solid 
tomatoed béarnaise sauce (No. 433), and on each point set a little bit of chopped parsley; pour 
around a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), finished with lemon juice and plenty of butter. 


(2888), DUXELLE OR COOKED FINE HERB OMELET (Omelette & la Duxelle ou aux Fines Herbes 


Cuites), 
ts very small; fry them ina little grated fat pork or butter, put 


Chop up some onions and shallo 
d their moisture add some 


in some finely chopped fresh mushrooms, and when these have evaporate 


854 THE EPICUREAN. 


chopped parsley and two spoonfuls of chopped truffles, mixing in a little velouté sauce (No. 415). 
Prepare the omelet the same as the parsley and fill it with the preparation; surround each side: 
with hollow half-round-shaped crusts (No. 52) to be filled with tomato purée (No. 7380). 


(2889), FINE HERB OMELET—RAW (Omelette aux Fines Herbes Orues), : 


Chop or cut finely some fine herbs, such as parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives; mix them in, 
with the eggs, and finish the same as the parsley omelet, or either of these herbs may be used ei 
arately in making a chervil, tarragon or chive omelet. 


(2890), FROG OMELET (Omelette aux Grenouilles), 


Sauté some large frogs in butter, bone and lay the meats in a sautoir, adding well-buttered. 
allemande sauce (No. 407) and soubise sauce (No. 548), half of each. Fill and finish an omelet the 
same as the parsley omelet (No. 2903), and pour around half supréme sauce (No. 547) and half 
soubise sauce, keeping it rather thin. 


(2891), OMELET, GERMAN STYLE (Omelette a l’Allemande), . 


Dilute two tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl with two whole eggs, one yolk and a.gill of cream,,. 
salt, pepper and nutmeg; strain through a fine wire sieve and then add finely cut-up chives. Put. 
four ounces of clarified bauee in a pan to heat, pour in the preparation, spreading it over the 
entire surface of the pan; prick the omelet as fast as it swells up, and turn it over when of a fine. 
color; add a little more butter and brown nicely on the other side before serving. With this. 
quantity several omelets can be obtained. 


(2892), GREEN OMELET WITH FINE HERBS, SPINACH, OR WITH SORREL CRUSTS (Omelette: 
Verte aux Fines Herbes aux Crotites d@'Epinards ou d’Oseille), 


Chop up parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon and clean sorrel leaves, put them into a saucer and. 
mix in some finely shredded chives. Break eight eggs in a bowl, mix with them the chopped herbs, 
season and beat; melt some butter in an omelet pan, pour in the eggs and stir with a fork to: 
thicken; as soon as the omelet detaches from the pan fold over and turn it out on a long dish; 
moisten the top with a brush dipped in maitre-d’hétel butter (No. 581) and surround with some. 
hollowed-out bread-crusts filled in with a fine purée of spinach (No. 729); glaze these over also. 


With Sorrel.—Chop up a full handful of sorrel leaves, free of stalks; after having them well 
washed and cleansed, fry in butter and mix with beaten eggs. Make an omelet the same as the. 
above and serve without any garnishing. 


(2893). HAM AND GREEN PEA OMELET (Omelette au Jambon et aux Petits Pois), 


Make an omelet with three eggs the same as a parsley omelet (No. 2903), only suppressing the: 
parsley; when done, and before folding it, put in two tablespoonfuls of lean cooked ham cut in three-- 
sixteenths inch squares, or else only one spoonful and one of green peas cooked English style (No.. 
2742), 


(2894), HAVANESE OMELET (Omelette Havanaise), 


Chop up some chicken livers and mushrooms; fry the livers in butter, add the mushrooms and’ 
moisten with port wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), then reduce. Outsome peeled tomatoes in 
two, press to extract the juice and fry them in oil, also sweet Spanish peppers. Fill the inside of 
an omelet with the tomatoes, the chopped liver, the sweet peppers and the mushrooms; finish the- 
same as the Argentine (No. 2878). Surround the omelet with the peppers and pour over a little: 
thin Colbert sauce (No. 451). | 


(2895), SMOKED HERRING OMELET (Omelette aux Harengs Saurs), 


Pour three ounces of partly melted butter in a vessel, beat it up with a spoon, mixing in with 
it four egg-yolks, one after the other. When the preparation becomes frothy, add to it two small 
spoonfuls of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lastly three stiffly beaten egg-whites. Mix into this: 
paste the fillets of four smoked herrings heated in the steam of boiling water until the skin is. 
sufficiently softened to remove, then cut them into large dice, suppressing all the bones. Butter the 
bottom of a large frying pan with melted butter put on with a brush, and when hot pour in the 
preparation; cook the omelet in a slack oven, pricking it several times with a fork; brush the top 
with butter and slide it on a dish. 





EGGS. 855 


(2896). HUNTER’S OMELET (Omelette au Chasseur). 


Mince some cépes finely; fry them in oil over a hot fire with a little garlic, salt and peppers 
add these to an omelet prepared as follows: Fry a little bread-crumbs or small crofitons in butter, 
mix them into beaten eggs seasoned with salt and pepper and make the omelet as explained for 
parsley omelet (No. 2903). Fill the omelet with the cépes. Pour a hunter’s sauce (No. 480) around: 
when dressed. 


(2897), KIDNEY OMELET (Omelette aux Rognons), 


Use either veal or mutton kidneys; cut them up small, sauté in butter over a brisk fire, drain 
and put them back into the pan with half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and white wine; take out the 
kidneys, reduce the sauce, butter it and replace the kidneys to warm up again, then fill the inside 
of an omelet with the preparation, and finish it as the Argentine (No. 2878), pouring the sauce 
around just when ready to serve. 


(2898), OMELET A LA ANDREWS (Omelette 4 la Andrews), 


Have a chicken hash prepared as for No. 2292; with it fill a slightly cooked omelet prepared 
the same as an Argentine (No. 2878); invert it on a dish that may be placed in the oven. Roll 
some noodle paste (No. 142) out very thin; allow it to dry a little in the air, roll it on itself to 
facilitate mincing it finely, then boil in salted water, drain and replace it in the saucepan with 
milk, white pepper, salt, nutmeg and butter; let simmer for twenty minutes so that nearly all the 
milk is absorbed, then cover the omelet with these noodles, bestrew with bread-crumbs and par- 
mesan cheese, sprinkle butter over and let brown in a hot oven; pour around a little bigarde 
sauce (No. 435). 


(2899), MUSHROOM OR SWEETBREAD OMELET (Omelette aux Champignons ou aux Ris de Veau) 

Cut up some mushrooms or cooked sweetbreads and place them in a sautoir with allemande 
sauce (No. 407), season, fill an omelet with either the mushrooms or the sweetbreads and finish by 
pouring the sauce around. 


(2900), ONION AND HAM OMELET (Omelette aux Oignons et au Jambon), 


Mince finely four ounces of white onions (new ones if in season); fry them slowly in butter 
or oil, stirring until they become tender and lightly colored, then add two ounces of cooked lean 
ham cut in one-eighth inch squares; drain off the whole. Break eight eggs in a bowl, season with 
salt, pepper and a little sugar; beat them up well and run through a colander, then add the onion, 
the ham and some chopped parsley. Heat a little butter in a pan, pour the eggs in and make the- 
omelet over a hot fire without ceasing to stir, keeping it mellow; fold over and turn it with one: 
stroke on a long dish; decorate with strings of tomato sauce (No. 549) put on with a brush. 


(2901), OYSTER OMELET (Omelette aux Huitres), 
Blanch raw oysters in their own liquor; drain and roll in velouté sauce (No. 415) or béchamel 
sauce (No. 409) reduced with the oyster liquor, thickening with raw egg-yolks; dilute with a little: 
cream and fresh butter and finish the same as an Argentine omelet (No. 2878). 


(2902). OMELET WITH CAVIARE ‘A LA STORCKEL (Omelette au Caviar & la Stoeckel). 

Dilute some caviare gradually with cream béchamel (No. 411) and with it fill a chopped pars 
ley omelet (No. 2903). Blanch a few cucumbers cut the shape of cloves of garlic, cook in white- 
broth (No. 194a) and have them so that when done the liquid has fallen toa glaze; remoisten 
with sour cream sauce; place these cucumbers around the omelet. 


(2903), PARSLEY OMELET (Omelette au Persil). 

ded with fine herb omelet. Use only eggs, seasoning 
green fresh parsley, put it into the corner of a napkim 
squeeze out all the moisture. Break 


Parsley omelet is frequently confoun 
and chopped parsley. Chop up some very 
and dip this in several waters; remove the cloth at once and 
eight eggs into a vessel, add the parsley, also pepper and salt. Melt some butter in a pan, pour im 
the beaten eggs and set it on the open fire; move the pan rapidly with the left hand, using a 
stew-spoon in the right hand. When the omelet is done fold it on both ends, turn it over on toa 


dish and shape it prettily. 


856 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2904), PHYSIOLOGICAL OMELET (Omelette Physiologique), 


Blanch some oysters or mussels in their own liquor; drain and cut into pieces, removing the 
feet from the mussels and the muscles from the oysters; add as much marinated tunny fish and 
as much fresh smoked herring meat and carp milt cut in three-eighths of an inch dice. Fry some 
shallots in butter, add the oysters, milt, herring and tunny fish, all cut in three-eighths of an inch 
squares, also parsley, chives, chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. Fill an 
omelet with this preparation, the same as an Argentine (No. 2878), and pour around a rather thin 
cream béchamel (No. 411). 


(2905). SAUSAGE OMELET (Omelette aux Saucisses), 


Sausage omelets can be made with Lubeck, Frankfort or fresh sausages. For the unsmoked 
ones, first broil them, then take off the skins and cut them up into small pieces. For Lubeck sau- 
sages, fry them in a pan, thencut them up. Plunge Frankfort sausages into boiling water, peel off 
the skin and divide the meats into small bits. Mix either of this with the uncooked omelet and 
finish the same as a parsley omelet (No. 2908). 


(2906). SHRIMP OMELET (Omelette aux Crevettes), 


Cut each shrimp in quarter-inch squares and mingle with an allemande sauce (No. 407) well 
buttered with lobster butter (No. 580); season, adding lemon juice, and just when ready to serve 
fill the omelet with the same and finish as for an Argentine omelet (No. 2878); pour the sauce 
around. The shrimps may be replaced by lobster or hard-shell crab meat.: 


(2907), SPANISH OMELET (Omelette @ l’Espagnole), 


This is to be prepared with a tablespoonful of chopped onion, aS much peeled and cut-up green 
pepper, half a crushed clove of garlic and one peeled tomato cut across in two, pressed and 
divided into quarter-inch squares; fry the onion, garlic and the pepper colorless in oil, add the 
tomatoes and cover the saucepan; let simmer for fifteen minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper. 
Break six eggs in a bowl, beat well, season and mix in a third part of the preparation. Make a 
mellow omelet, fill the center with the solid remaining part and pour the sauce around the whole. 
Instead of mixing the tomato preparation with the eggs the omelet can be filled with it when made. 
Pour around a little half-glaze sauce (No. 418). 


(2908), TRUFFLE OMELET (Omelette aux Truffes), 


Mince some cooked peeled truffles and put them in a sautoir to mingle with either allemande 
sauce (No, 407) or else half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. Fill the inside of an omelet with 
these truffles and pour the sauce around. 


(2909). EGGS ON A DISH (Gufs sur le Plat), 


There is very little difference between eggs on a dish or miroir eggs, for they are both cooked 
the same way, the only difference being that the first ones are served on the same dish they are 






WW 


Fic. 566, 


cooked in, while the miroir eggs are basted with boiling butter while cooking and cut in rounds as 
soon as done with a two and a half inch pastry cutter; take them up with a palette and serve on 
a plate or dish. 

Lo Prepare Eggs on a Dish.—These eggs should be cooked in china egg dishes (Fig. 567); to 
do them properly first butter the dish with fresh or unsalted butter, break the eggs into the dish, 
and salt over the whites but not the yolks so as not to discolor them; set the dish on a thick, 
cold baking sheet and push it at once into the oven so that they receive more heat from the top 
than bottom; as soon as the yolks are glossy remove the dish from the oven and, if necessary, 
finish cooking on top, being careful not to have the whites done too much. Eggs cooked in this 
way are generally served on the same dish, with or without a garnishing. 








i 
7 
; 
; 
) 


as) pe Se eek aly | 857 


(2910). EGGS ON A DISH, BERCY (Gufs sur le Plat & la Bercy), 


Fry in a pan two or three sausages; pour the fat into a small egg dish (Fig. 567), leaving the 
sausages in the pan, then break four eggs into the dish. Pour over some melted butter, aalix Suen 
the whites and cook in the range oven, leaving them in till they are glossy. Skin the sausages 
cut them up and dress around the eggs, serving with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and tomato ea 
(No. 549), reduced together and strained through a fine sieve. 


(2911). EGGS ON A DISH, BIENVENUE (CEufs sur le Plat & la Bienvenue). 


Lay through a pocket on the inside edge of the basin of a dish a border made of potato 
croquette preparation (No. 2782) softened with an egy; fill the center of this border with a. bed of 
duxelle or cooked fine herbs (No. 385); break over some raw eggs without injuring the yolks, 
season with salt and pepper, and put in the center of the yolks; dredge with grated Swiss cheese, 
pour onsome butter and cook the eggs in a hot oven. Serve as soon as removed. 


(2912), EGGS ON A DISH, CONDE (Gufs sur le Plat & la Condé), 


Through a pocket provided with a channeled socket form a border of chicken quenelle force- 
meat (No. 89) and baking forcemeat (No. 81), well mixed together, laying it in the inside of the 
basin of the dish. Butter the bottom of this dish, season with salt and pepper, and break in a 
sufficiency of eggs without disturbing the yolks; strew the whites with duck’s liver cut in one- 
eighth of an inch squares, and over the whole scatter grated parmesan cheese; pour on some butter 
and cook inahot oven. Garnish around with three-quarters of an inch round chicken croquettes. 


(2913) EGGS ON A DISH, CREOLE STYLE (Ginfs sur le Plat & la Créole), 


Fry colorless in oil one tablespoonful of chopped onions, as much finely cut-up hot pepper, a 
quarter of a clove of crushed garlic and a-peeled tomato cut in two, pressed out, then divided into 
small squares; simmer, reduce, and when of a sufficient consistency add two tablespoonfuls of 
ecoked rice, salt and cayenne pepper. With this preparation cover the bottom of a dish fit for the 
oven; break over the eggs carefully, keeping the yolks entire, pour on melted butter, season with 
salt on the white of the eggs, and in the center of the yolk put a little pepper, and cook in a 
moderate oven. 


(2914), EGGS ON A DISH, ENGLISH STYLE (Gufs sur le Plat 4 l’Anglaise), 


Suppress the rind from some bacon, cut it'up very thin and fry in butter without browning. 
Break some eggs into a buttered china egg dish (Fig. 567), season the whites with a little salt only, 
‘and the yolks with a little pepper placed in the center; cook in the oven, having more heat on top 
than on the bottom. Serve as soon as done, surrounded with the bacon. 


(2915), EGGS ON A DISH, FERMIERE (Gufs sur le Plat & la Fermiare), 


Cut the gall from one chicken liver, mince the latter and put it into a pan with butter and 
a spoonful of chopped onions; season and cook, but not too quickly, while turning over; remove the 
liver with a skimmer and put one spoonful of chopped-up mushrooms into the pan; let the moisture 
reduce. Place this in the bottom of an egg dish, on this the liver, break two eggs over, season, 
pour over some melted butter and cook in the oven. 


(2916), EGGS ON A DISH, MONACO (Gufs sur le Plat & la Monaco), 


Put into a sautoir one gill of tomato juice and a spoonful of melted glaze (No. 402); add a 
small bunch of aromatic herbs and tarragon leaves, reduce the liquid until it is the consistency of a 
syrup, then take out the herbs and pour the liquid into a large egg dish. Break six eggs in a dish, 
salt the whites, pour over some melted butter and cook in the oven until they become glossy. 


(2917), EGGS ON A DISH, OMER PACHA (Ciufs sur le Plat & la Omer Pacha), 


Melt a little butter on a dish that can go in the oven; when heated break in twelve eggs, one 
beside the other, keeping the yolks whole; cook in a moderate oven for five to six minutes. Fry in 
butter two ounces of chopped onions and as much cut-up green peppers, add three gills of tomato 
sauce (No. 549) and half the quantity of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and white wine; reduce, not 
having it too thick, then add bacon prepared by mincing unsmoked bacon; fry it in butter, moisten 
with gravy (No. 404) and Madeira wine, then cook and reduce the moistening entirely; pour this 


prepared sauce over the eggs or else serve in a separate sauce- boat. 


858 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2918), EGGS ON A DISH, PLUMEREY (Gufs sur le Plat & la Plumerey), 


Remove the whites from four eggs, keeping the yolks in their shells; mix with these whites — 
half a gill of soubise (No. 723) and half a gill of tomato purée (No. 730); butter a dish plentifully ~ 


and pour into it the white of eggs, soubise and tomato mixture. Lay the yolks over and cook ina 
slack oven, bestrewing the top with raw fine herbs. Between each yolk place a round croquette an 
inch in diameter, made of grated cooked ham mixed with béchamel sauce (No. 409). 


(2919), EGGS ON A DISH, ROSSINI (Ghufs sur le Plat & la Rossini), 


Butter the bottom of a dish, break on it four eggs, being careful to keep the yolks whole. 
‘Fry some fat chicken livers cut in escalops that have been seasoned and rolled in flour; garnish 
around the eggs with these. Cook the eggs in a moderate oven, cover the livers with Périgueux 
sauce (No. 517) and serve. | 


(2920) EGGS ON A DISH, VENETIAN STYLE (Gufs sur le Plat & la Vénitienne), 


Cut in dice pieces equal quantities of anchovy fillets, broiled and peeled sweet ‘peppers from. 
which the seeds have been removed and good sound tomatoes, scalded, peeled and the liquid 
squeezed out. Bestrew the bottom of an egg dish with these ingredients, pour over some 
oil and heat lightly. Break four eggs into the dish, season the whites, and cook in the oven; when 
removed lay the dish inside of another and serve. 


(2921), EGGS ON A DISH WITH BACON (Chufs sur le Plat au Petit Salé), 


Butter the dish, break in the eggs without spoiling the yolks, season and set for an instant on 
the fire and finish cooking in the oven; surround with slices of broiled smoked bacon. 


(2922). EGGS ON A DISH WITH CEPES (Gufs sur le Plat aux Cépes), 


Peel and chop up two or three cépes heads; melt some butter in a large egg dish, bestrew the 
bottom with chopped cépes and these with parsley; season and heat for two minutes. Break six 
eggs into this dish, and cook in the oven, having them glossy. Eggs can also be prepared with 
canned mushrooms. 


(2923), EGGS ON A DISH WITH CHOPPED HAM (Gufs sur le Plat au Jambon Haché), 
Butter the bottom of a small egg dish (Fig. 567), cover it with a layer of cooked and chopped 
lean ham and over this pour a little melted meat glaze (No. 402). Break four eggs into the dish, 


salt the whites, and cook in the range oven, letting them get glossy on top. They may also be 
prepared with boiled tongue instead of ham. 


(2924), EGGS ON A DISH WITH TOMATOES (Cufs sur le Plat aux Tomates), 


Scald two small partly ripe tomatoes in order to remove the skins, divide each one in two, cut 
them up small, salt over and drain in a sieve; sauté in butter and range them on the bottom of a 


small buttered egg dish (Fig. 567); break four eggs into this, salt the whites, scald the yolks and 
cook in the oven, glossing the tops. 


(2925), POACHED EGGS A LA BOELDIEU AND EGGS A LA BENEDIOK (Eufs Pochés & la’ 
Boéldieu et CEufs & la Benedick), 


Poach two or three eggs; scald two tomatoes just sufficiently to be able to peel off the skins;. | 


drain and cut them in slices, then in dice; put the 
pieces in a pan with oil and sauté on a brisk fire 
until they have reduced their humidity without 
dissolving; season highly, and bestrew with 
chopped parsley. With these tomatoes fill two or 
_ three hollowed-out bread crusts (No. 52), and on 
each lay one of the poached eggs heated at the oven door, basting them over with good reduced 
velouté sauce (No. 415); range these crusts on separate plates. 

Eggs a la Benedick.—Cut some muffins in halves crosswise, toast them without allowing to 
brown, then place a round of cooked ham an eighth of an inch thick and of the same diameter as 
the muffins on each half. Heat in a moderate oven and put a poached egg on each toast. Cover 
the whole with Hollandaise sauce (No. 501). 














Fie. 568. 





_ — 


ie 


or Cre: 859 


(2926), POACHED EGGS A LA BOURGUIGNONNE—BAKED (Gufs Pochés a la Bourguignonne: 
au Gratin). 


Boil water in a saucepan; add salt and a dash of vinegar. Crack six very fresh eggs and drop. 
them slowly in a deep dish, keeping them whole; slip them into the boiling water, and when done, 
and found to be of a proper consistency, remove them with a skimmer, and transfer to cold water; 
pare each one singly. Butter thoroughly a baking dish, bestrew it with bread-crumbs and then ¢ 
layer of grated parmesan; pour over butter, and lay on the eggs; mask them with a well-seasoned 
béchamel sauce (No. 409), sprinkle with grated parmesan and butter, and bakein a hot oven. When 
done strew over some chopped fine herbs and squeeze over the juice of a lemon. 


(2927), POACHED EGGS A LA MIRABEAU (Gufs Pochés & la Mirabean), 


Prepare a cooked foies-gras and cut seven or eight oval-shaped slices of the same dimensions: 
as the poached eggs; pound the parings of liver with two pounded raw peeled truffles, season and 
add a spoonful of raw chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and two egg-yolks; put this into a strong 
paper cornet and push it through to form a high string all around the upper edges of the slices 
of foies-gras. Range these on a small raised baking sheet, having the bottom covered with a thin 
layer of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira wine; keep for two minutes in a slack 
oven to warm the liver and poach the forcemeat. Remove and dress in a circle on a dish, placing a 
poached egg on each one; heat at the oven door while basting over with good velouté sauce (No. 
415). 


(2928), POACHED EGGS A LA VILLEROI (Eufs Pochés & la Villeroi), 


Poach seven or eight eggs just sufficiently not to have the whites break; when refreshed, pared 
and well wiped, dip them one by one into a thick Villeroi sauce (No. 560); range as fast as they are 
done on a small baking sheet, slightly apart, and leave until the sauce hardens, then detach the 
eggs from the sheet, suppress the superfluous sauce, and roll them first in fresh bread-crumbs. 
mingled with parmesan, then in beaten eggs; lastly plunge the eggs, one at a time, into plenty of 
hot frying fat to cook to a good color; drain and dress in a circle on a thin bed of chicken quenelle 
forcemeat (No. 89) poached on a dish to prevent the eggs from slipping off; surround each one 
with a string of consistent tomato purée (No. 730), mixed with béarnaise sauce (No. 483). Serve 
at once. 


(2929), POACHED EGGS A LA WRIGHT SANFORD (Gufs Pochés & la Wright Sanford), 


Blanch some straight thick vermicelli in boiling water for two minutes ; drain and return 
them to the saucepan, adding fresh mushrooms previously minced, washed, drained, fried in 
butter, and moistened with a little Madeira wine and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and reduced; season, 
then dress the whole in the center of a dish, and garnish around with poached eggs (No. 2981). 


(2930), POACHED EGGS, MATELOTE (GEufs Pochés Matelote), 


Poach some eggs the same as for poached eggs with gravy (No. 2931); prepare and fry in clarified 
butter some oval crusts (No. 52) measuring two and a quarter by two and three-quarter inches. 
Cook in butter one minced onion, add to it a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, 
and a clove of garlic and mushroom peelings; moisten with red wine and thicken with kneaded 
butter (No. 579); boil all slowly for half an hour, skim and pass it through a tammy; add small 
cooked mushroom heads and small glazed onions. Dress the eggs on the fried crusts; range them 
in a circle, and pour the garnishing in the center. 


(2931), POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY (Gufs Pochés au Jus), 


The eggs must be very fresh and selected of uniform size. Only a few at a time can be 
poached. Boil some salted water acidulated with vinegar in a saucepan; quickly crack three or 
four eggs, one at a time, on the edge of the saucepan; open and drop them over the water exactly 
in the spot where it bubbles; with a small, deep, long-shaped skimmer gather the egg together, 
turning it incessantly, so that it assumes a long form, then remove the pan to the side of the fire 


860 | THE EPICUREAN. 


until the envelope of the yolk be sufficiently hardened not to break. The difficulty consists in giving 
the egg a sufficient solidity without allowing the yolks to harden, for these should remain perfectly 
mellow. As soon as each egg is done, lift it up delicately with the skimmer and drop it in a 
plentiful supply of cold water so that it hardens, then take it up very carefully, pare neatly, and 
return it at once into cold water. Just when ready to serve, warm the poached eggs, either in 
their own water that has been strained through a sieve, or on a small baking tin, in a slack oven; 
dress them in a vegetable dish and baste over with clear gravy (No. 404) and serve. Poached eggs 
are also served simply on slices of toast, without any sauce whatever. | 


(2932), POACHED EGGS WITH PUREE OF CHICKEN SUPREME (CEufs Pochés & la Purée de 
Volaille Supreme), ! 


Poach eight eggs, the same as for those poached with gravy (No. 2931); prepare some croustades, 
either of bread or paste, and fill them half full with chicken purée (No. 713), having all very hot; 
lay on the well-drained poached eggs, thoroughly heated at the oven door, and cover with buttered 
supreme sauce (No. 547). 

They can also be prepared with a purée of mushzooms (No. 722), game (No. 716) or truffles 
(No. 731). 


(2933). POACHED EGGS WITH SPINACH (Giufs Pochés aux Epinards). 


After poaching the eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2931), dress them on a spinach garnish- 
ing, or else one of chicory (No. 729). 


(2934), SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA COLUMBUS (Eufs Brouillés a 5 Colombus), 


After the eggs are nearly done mix in with them some cooked lean quarter-inch squares of ham; 
cut some slices of raw blood pudding (No. 1772), fry them in butter over a brisk fire, then arrange 
them on a baking sheet and allow to cool off; bread-crumb and dip in egg, then fry to a fine color. 





Fia. 569. 


Also sauté some slices of beef brains over a quick fire. Dress the scrambled eggs, putting half the 
preparation on a dish and the brains in the center; cover these with the remainder of the eggs and 
surround with the fried slices of black pudding. Garnish the top with very thin half slices of 
sausage. 


(2935). SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA DUXELLE AND WITH ANCHOVY OROUSTADES (Gufs 
Brouillés & la Duxelle et aux Croustades d’Anchois), 


Fry in butter some chopped onions, shallots and mushrooms; mix with these a little reduced 
velouté sauce (No. 415). Break five or six eggs in a bowl, season, beat hghtly and pour them 
into a saucepan, having previously buttered the bottom with one ounce of fresh butter; 
beat them over a slow fire with a whisk until they begin to thicken, then use a spoon, 
and work till smooth, incorporating about an ounce and a half more butter divided in 
small pats; season and throw in the fine herbs and some chopped parsley; finish with a little raw 
cream so as to keep them mellow. In case the eggs have to wait, then put the saucepan ina bain- 
marie having the water only tepid, and continue beating with the spoon. Dress the eggs in a 
vegetable or any deep dish, smooth the top and drop over some tomatoed half-glaze; surround 
with small hollow round crusts (No. 52) filled with reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409), finished with 
anchovy purée and a halved anchovy dressed in a ring the size of the opening on the croustade, the 
anchovy to be filled through a cornet with cold béarnaise sauce (No. 483), having lobster coral 
sprinkled over the top. 





EGGS. 861 


(2936). SORAMBLED EGGS A LA JEROME (Gufs Brouillés & la Jérdme,) 


Cook some eggs the same as for scrambled with gravy (No. 2940), mixing in when nearly done 
a salpicon either of partridge, woodcock or any other seasonable game cut in three-sixteenths of 
an inch squares; dress, pour around the sauce and garnish with the stuffed eggs. 

For the Sauce.— Prepare a game fumet (No. 397) with the fragments of game, reducing it with 
espagnole sauce (No. 414). 

Stuffed Hggs.—Have hard-boiled eggs prepared as follows: Boil some eggs for ten minutes, 
throw in cold water, shell and remove the white from the pointed ends only with a tin tube half 
an inch in diameter; empty out the interiors with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and pound this with 
well seasoned béarnaise sauce (No. 433), mixing in chopped-up mushrooms; fill and re-form the 
eggs with this stuffing, roll in flour, then in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. 


(2937), SORAMBLED EGGS A LA MARTINEZ (Eufs Brouillés & la Martinez), 


Broil four sweet Spanish peppers, selected with meaty and plump insides; suppress their skins 
by rubbing with a cloth, then divide each one in two; fry in butter and oil, half of each, season 
with salt. drain off the fat, and mix in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and chopped parsley. Scramble 
eight eggs, thickening over a slow fire, and when almost done mingle in some artichoke 
bottoms cut in quarter-inch squares, and fried in butter, and some cooked ham cut in three-six- 
teenths of an inch squares. Dress the whole in a vegetable dish, smooth the surface dome-shaped 
and pour around tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), mixed. Arrange the pep- 
pers ina circle, one overlapping the other, and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. 


(2938), SCRAMBLED EGGS IN A RISOT BORDER WITH DUCKS’ LIVERS (Gufs Brouillés ev 
| Bordure de Risot aux Foies de Canard). 

Make a risot (No. 739), mixing in with it some cooked ducks’ livers cut in quarter-inch squares. 
Butter a plain, round-top border mold (Fig. 138), fill it with the risot, pressing it firmly; keep warm 
and unmold just when ready to serve. Fill the center with scrambled eggs (No, 2940), mixing in 
some chopped truffles. Garnish around the eggs with small escalops of foies-gras rolled in Madeira 
sauce (No. 492). 


(2939), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH FINE HERBS (Gufs Brouillés aux Fines Herbes), 

Have some eggs scrambled the same as with gravy (No. 2940); to avoid having lumps in them 
they should not be cooked excessively, and above all be well stirred; mix in one tablespoonful 
altogether of chopped parsley, chives and chervil. Should it be necessary to keep them any length 
of time before serving, then add a little good velouté sauce (No. 415). Surround with puff paste 
crescents baked in a slack oven. 


(2940). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GRAVY (Cufs Brouillés au Jus). 

Break six eggs in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a gill of cream or milk, and season 
with salt and pepper. Lay the saucepan containing the eggs on a slow fire and stir by beating 
vigorously with a small wire whip (Fig. 154); as soon as they attain a consistency, remove the sauce- 
pan from the fire and continue the same process for two minutes longer; when finished pour it out 
on a dish and surround by bread crofitons (No. 51) fried in clarified butter. Throw over some 
reduced clear gravy (No. 404), mixing a little meat glaze (No. 402) into it. 


(2941), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH LOBSTER, GARNISHED WITH VILLEROI OYSTERS (Gufs 
Brouillés aux Homards, Garnis d’Huitres a la Villeroi). 
Add to some nearly finished scrambled eggs, prepared the same as for gravy (No. 2940), 
a salpicon of lobster cut in three-sixteenths of an inch dice. Dress the eggs when finished, 
smooth the surface and garnish around with Villeroi oysters (No. 698), or else mussels or scallops. 
The lobster salpicon can be replaced by one of shrimps or of crabs. 


(9942), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS (Cufs Brouillés aux Champignons), 
Prepare the scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940); when almost done mix in a 
salpicon of mushrooms cut in quarter-inch squares; dress and pour around a little Madeira sauce 
(No. 492) and surround with croatons of bread fried in butter (No. 51). 


$62 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(2943), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH SWEETBREADS (Gufs Brouillés aux Ris de Veau). 


Braise some sweetbreads and then put them under a weight to cool; cut them up in quarter- 
inch squares and warm in butter. Prepare some scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940) 
and when nearly done add the sweetbreads and mix them in with the eggs. Dress on the center 
of a dish, pour around a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and surround with half-heart crofitons 
(small) of bread fried in butter (No. 51). The sweetbreads may be replaced either by unsmoked 
salted tongue, ham, or even thin pieces of smoked beef or squares of bacon fried in butter. 


(2944), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH SWISS AND PARMESAN CHEESE (Gufs Brouillés au Fromage 


de Gruyére et au Parmesan), 


Beat eight eggs lightly in a bowl, pour them into a saucepan having its bottom buttered with 
two ounces of fresh butter; season and thicken on a slow fire while beating unceasingly, and as 
soon as cooked incorporate an ounce of butter and two of grated parmesan. Remove it from the 
fire and then pour in a little good velouté sauce (No. 415) and raw cream; finish with a few spoon- 
fuls of Swiss cheese cut in dice and softened in cold milk. Dress the preparation in a deep dish 
and surround with puff-paste crescents. Scrambled eggs may be prepared with the Swiss cheese 
or with grated parmesan, mixing in three ounces of either. Surround with triangle-shaped bread 
crotitons fried in butter (No. 51). 


(2945), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATO PUREE (Gufs Brouillés & la Purée de Tomates). 


Select two or three good tomatoes; put them beside each other in a wire basket and plunge into 
boiling water for two minutes simply to scald and remove the skins; drain off and press through a 
sieve; should the purée be too thin put it on a hair sieve to drain, then warm and season it. Scram- 
ble seven or eight eggs in a saucepan the same as for scrambled with gravy (No. 2940); when 
properly thickened remove and mix in the prepared purée; pour the whole into a deep dish. 
Sprinkle over with half-glaze (No. 400), using a brush, and surround with bread croftons (No. 51). 


(2946), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES AND OHIVES (Ciufs Brouillés aux Tomates et a la 
Ciboulette), 


Scald some tomatoes, peel and cut across in two, then into squares, and sauté in butter; add 
them to the scrambled eggs when nearly done, also some finely cut-up chives (see scrambled eggs 
with gravy, No. 2940). 


(2947), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH PERIGORD TRUFFLES (Gufs Brouillés aux Truffes du 
Périgord). : 


Cut two ounces of Périgord truffles into three-sixteenths inch squares, after they have been 
peeled and cooked with salt and Madeira wine; put this salpicon with a little melted meat-glaze 
(No. 402) into a small saucepan and set it in a bain-marie. Break four eggs in a bowl, season and 
beat to mix well, then pour them through a fine strainer into a saucepan, having its bottom coy- 
ered with half an ounce of butter; put the saucepan on a slow fire and thicken the eggs while 
beating steadily with a small tinned wire whip.. When almost done remove from the fire and mix 
in slowly about half an ounce of butter broken up small, finishing with a few spoonfuls of raw 
ream; add the truffles and dress in a vegetable or any other deep dish. 


(2948), SORAMBLED EGGS WITH PIEDMONT TRUFFLES (Gufs Brouillés aux Truffes du 
Piémont), 


Prepare the scrambled eggs the same as for No. 2940, only salting them less; mix with them 
two spoonfuls of grated parmesan. Have two ounces of white truffles cut up into thin fillets; put 
the eggs in a soufflé pan (Fig. 182), make a hole in the center and in it place the truffles; pour 
some barely melted butter over, and on top place anchovy fillets. Cover the whole with the eggs 
so that the truffles are inclosed in the center; set this pan ina slack oven for a few moments and 
serve at once. 





EGGS. # 863 


a 
(2949), SOFT EGGS A LA CHIPOLATA (Gufs Mollets & la Chipolata), 
As for poached eggs these must be of the freshest so as to have them well shaped, all of the 
same size, while cooking. Partly fresh eggs form into cavities when taken from their shells, 
giving them an ungainly appearance. Put the eggs into a strainer and plunge this into boiling 

















water; cover the vessel and allow the liquid to boil steadily for five minutes, should the eggs he 
large; leave them for thirty seconds in their water off the fire; then remove them from the 
strainer, and plunge into cold water for twelve to fifteen minutes before breaking off their shells; 
remove these, then return them to the cold water. Just when ready to serve heat them in salted 
water that must not boil; drain and dress them on hollow crusts (No. 52) and garnish around 
with a Chipolata garnishing (No. 657). | 


(2950), SOFT EGGS FOR EPICURES (Gufs Mollets des Gourmets), 


Fry in clarified butter some hollowed crusts the shape of an egg (No. 52), having one for each; 
dine the interiors with a bed of foies-gras purée, and range a hot soft egg over. Pour into a sauce- 
pan some tomato purée (No. 730), strained through a fine sieve, and incorporate, beating it in, 
some lobster butter (No. 580), a dash of tarragon vinegar, and a little shallot cut in one-eighth of an 
inch squares, and blanched. Dress the crusts (Fig. 570), and pour the sauce over. 


(2951), SOFT EGGS WITH PUREE OF SORREL (Cufs Mollets & la Purée dOseille), 
Prepare a purée of sorrel garnishing (No. 728), finish it with a little half-glaze (No. 400), 
‘butter it well, and dress in a vegetable dish; smooth the surface, and on it arrange six soft eggs, 
prepared as explained in No. 2949. Baste the sorrel with half-glaze applied with a brush. 


when 








FARIN ACHOUS (Farineux). 





(2952), RICE CROQUETTES WITH SALPICON (roquettes de Riz au Salpicon), 


Pick and wash half a pound of rice; blanch, drain and refresh; place it ina saucepan to moisten 
with broth (No. 194a) to three times its height; add a quarter of a pound of butter and a seasoning 
of salt, pepper and nutmeg. When the rice is sufficiently cooked (in twenty or thirty minutes), mix 
into it a salpicon weighing a quarter of a pound, composed of tongue, truffles, chicken, game and 
mushrooms—all to be mixed evenly after cutting in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Leave 
this stand till cold, then form into round, flat, oval or oblong croquettes; dip in beaten eggs, then in 
bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color. Dress on a folded napkin with fried parsley on top. 


(2953), FEDELINI VERMICELLINI AU CARDINAL (Fedelini Vermicellini au Cardinal). 


Have half a pound of small, straight vermicelli, one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter. 
Begin by plunging it in an abundance of boiling salted water for about three minutes, then drain 
and put it back in a saucepan with four ounces of butter divided in small lumps, and two ounces of 
grated parmesan, adding salt, pepper, nutmeg, béchamet sauce (No. 409), four ounces of minced 
mushrooms, two ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573). Have two ounces of truffles sliced sufficiently 
large, and an eighth of an inch thick, then fried in butter, drained and rolled in meat glaze (No. 
402). Alternate the fedelini in a vegetable dish with layers of minced truffles, covering each one 
with grated parmesan; bestrew the top with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, pour butter over, 
and brown in a hot oven, or under a salamander (Fig. 128). 


(2954), FONDUE WITH PIEDMONTESE TRUFFLES (Fondue aux Truffes du Piémont), 


Take a pound of soft, fresh Swiss cheese and cut it up into quarter-inch squares. Break 
twelve egg-yolks in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well together and dilute with a 
pint of cream, then strain through a sieve. Put the cheese into a saucepan on a slow fire with two 
tablespoonfuls of milk, stir it about with a spoon until it no longer forms into strings, then pour in 
the prepared yolks. Heat all on the fire, stirring with a spoon until it assumes the consistency 
of a cream (but it must not boil), then add a little butter and peeled and finely minced Pied- 
montese truffies. Pour the whole into a deep dish and dredge the top with finely chopped truffles. 


(2955), GNOCQUIS (Gnocquis), 


Put into a saucepan two gills of water, adding an ounce of butter, salt and pepper; let come 
to a boil, then put in a quarter of a pound of flour and an ounce and a half of grated cheese; stir 
the preparation for two minutes on the fire and beat in quickly three eggs, one after the other. 
Dredge the table with flour, pour the paste on it, divide it into small bits and rolling each one out 
into a string on the table, cut them so as to obtain three-eighths of an inch in diameter balls, and 
poach these for five minutes in boiling milk. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, fill it with 
flour and moisten with the milk the gnocquis were boiled in, then add grated parmesan cheese and 
the gnocquis, stir well, heat the gnocquis thoroughly and serve. Gnocquis can also be made with 
semolina, also with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) added to the same weight of cream cake 


paste (No. 132). 


(2956). GNOCQUIS, ROMAN STYLE (Gnocquis & la Romaine), 


Range a pound of sifted flour in a ring, form a hollow in the center and in it put salt, two 
‘ounces of butter, four ounces of mashed potatoes passed through a fine sieve, anda little hot water. 
Make a firm paste and divide it into small pieces to form three-fourths of an inch diameter balls; 
press them on a grater, throw into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then drain and serve in a soup 
tureen in layers alternated with parmesan cheese; pour over hazel-nut butter (No. 567) and some 


gravy (No. 404) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and tomato purée (No. 730). 
(865) 


866 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2957), LAZAGNETTES, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Lazagnettes & la Philadelphie), — 


Blanch half a pound of lazagnettes. (These are thin bands of paste three-sixteenths of an 
inch wide.) Drain and put them in a saucepan to cover with some broth (No. 194a); boil and 
reduce this to almost nothing, then add four ounces of cooked lean ham and eight ounces of 
mushrooms, both to be cutin small three-sixteenths inch squares; dish in separate layers of lazag- 
nettes and parmesan and cover with thin béchamel sauce (No. 409), into which have mixed meat- 
glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549). 


(2958). MACARONI A LA BRIGNOLI (Macaroni & la Brignoli), 


Braise a piece of beef by placing it in a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, onions, carrots 
and a bunch of parsley; moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a) and let fall to a glaze, then re- 
moisten and let fall once more to a’glaze; pour in sufficient broth and white wine to reach to the 
height of the meat. Cook for four hours in a slack oven, strain, skim off the fat and mingle into 
the sauce a third as much tomato purée (No. 730). Boil some macaroni in salted water for twelve 
to fifteen minutes, drain and put it in a saucepan with a pint of gravy (No. 404); when this is 
absorbed dress two-thirds of the macaroni in layers with grated parmesan between; form a hollow 
in the center and in it arrange sliced truffles previously cooked in a sautoir with cocks’-combs and 
minced mushrooms, having them simmered with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze 
(No. 400). Cover over with more macaroni and grated parmesan, pour on a part of the prepared 
stock and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. 


(2959), MACARONI BAKED (Macaroni au Gratin), 


Dress the macaroni, cooked as for the Parisian (No.2961), in a buttered and bread-crumbed dish; 
smooth the top neatly, strew with bread-raspings and butter, and bake in a hot oven. 


(2960). MACARONI, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Macaroni @ la Mode de Naples), 


Line a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and 
bay leaf, and on top lay a three-pound piece of rumps of beef. ‘Into this make three holes some dis- 
tance apart from each other, and each an inch in diameter; in one place some grated fat pork, 
in the other a little garlic and in the third hard egg, chopped and seasoned with salt, pepper and 
parsley. Put the meat into the saucepan with some fat, and color it on a slow fire or in the oven. 
Around lay a few boned calves’ feet, moisten with two bottles of wine, one red and one white, and 
a quart of broth (No. 194a); when the beef is half-cooked, add twelve tomatoes cut in two and 
pressed out, and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); cover the saucepan, paste on the lid with a 
paste made of flour and water and push it into a moderate oven for six hours; remove, skim off 
the fat and strain the stock. Cook a pound and a half of macaroni three-sixteenths of an inch in 
diameter in salted boiling water from twelve to fifteen minutes; when sufficiently done drain and 
range it in a large vegetable dish or soup tureen in separate layers of macaroni and grated cheese. 
Baste over with the beef stock and continue until it is all used, and when ready to serve stir well 
and send to the table, using the meat only for stock. 


(2961). MAOARONI, PARISIAN STYLE (Macaroni 4 la Parisienne). 


Boil a pound of macaroni in salted water from twelve to fifteen minutes, putting it in only 
when the water boils. Avoid breaking it for it can always be cut the desired length after cooking. 
When cooked drain and return it to the saucepan, season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
and add half parmesan and half Swiss cheese, finishing with a little bechamel sauce (No. 409) and 
a large piece of butter. Toss in the saucepan, without using a spoon, and when well mingled 
and the cheese forms into threads then it is done. Pour it into a vegetable dish and serve. 


(2962). MACARONI WITH CREAM AND TRUFFLES (Macaroni 4 la Créme aux Truffes), 


After cooking and blanching the macaroni the same as for the Parisian, drain and lay it in a 
saucepan to season with salt and nutmeg; add a pint of cream and let simmer until this is re- 
duced, then transfer it to a vegetable dish in layers, alternating each one with grated parmesan 
and some finely shredded truffles, finishing with the chopped truffles. Pour over melted butter 
and serve. 





FARINACEOUS. 867 


(2963). MACARONI WITH GAME PUREE (Macaroni 4 la Purée de Gibier), 


Pound the meats of a cooked partridge, free of skin or bones; add to it six ounces of butter and 
six gills of meat gravy, prepared the same as in No. 2960. Blanch the macaroni for twelve minutes, 


drain and dress it in layers—macaroni, grated parmesan and game purée. Serve separately a 
half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of game (No. 389). 


(2964), MACARONI MEZZANI GRANDI A LA CAVALLOTTI (Macaroni Mezzani Grandi a la 
Cavallotti), 


Boil half a pound of this macaroni, which is a quarter of an inch in diameter. Chop up 
separately some cooked lean ham, some cooked cold chicken fillets and livers, mushrooms 
and truffles; place these ingredients in a saucepan with reduced gravy (No. 404) and finish 
with a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549); keep this preparation in a bain-marie 
(Fig. 122). After the macaroni is cooked, drain and return it to the saucepan to mix ina gill of 
rich gravy; boil while stirring at times and when the gravy is all absorbed add two ounces of butter 
divided in small pats, also two ounces of grated parmesan. Dress the macaroni in a vegetable 
dish and spread a part of the sauce over; strew with parmesan, pour a little hazel-nut butter (No. 
567) over and serve very hot, with the remaining gravy in a sauce-boat. 


(2965), MACARONNICELLI A LA LUGINI (Macaronnicelli & la Lucini), 


Boil a pound of macaronnicelli; drain and put it in a sautoir with half a pound of butter. 
Cut five peeled tomatoes crosswise in two; press them well and fry in butter over a brisk fire, keep- 
ing them very whole. Grate half a pound of Swiss and parmesan cheese, half of each. Chop up a 
medium onion, fry itin butter with four ounces of cooked lean ham and as much bacon, both cut 
in three-sixteenths inch squares; drain off the butter and replace it by espagnole sauce (No. 414) 
and meat gravy; let cook for fifteen minutes, then dress the macaronnicelli in a vegetable dish, 
alternating each layer with one of the grated cheese; cover the surface with the halved tomatoes 
and pour the sauce over the whole. 


(2966), SPAGHETTI MACARONI A LA LAURENCE (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Laurence), 


Cook the spaghetti in boiling water for ten minutes; drain and finish in some veal blond (No. 
423) in such a way that when the paste is cooked the moistening will be entirely reduced, then dress 
it in a vegetable dish intercalated with layers of grated parmesan. Serve the following sauce sepa- 
rately: Chop up two ounces of onions, fry it in butter with six ounces of minced ham, a bunch of 
parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mignonette, an uncrushed clove of garlic, six halved and 
well-pressed-out tomatoes, melted meat glaze (No. 402) and espagnole sauce (No. 414); boil together 
for fifteen minutes, then strain through a tammy and pour ina sauce-tureen to serve at the same 
time as the macaroni. 


(2967), SPAGHETTI MACARONI A LA PRATI (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Prati), 


Take half a pound of cold braised sweetbread escalops, one inch 1n diameter by three-sixteenths 
of an inch in thickness, and a quarter of a pound of cooked lean ham cut the same size and shape; 
fry both lightly in butter and moisten with some gravy (No. 404), espagnole sauce (No. 414) and 
Madeira wine; add two ounces of salted unsmoked tongue and one ounce of truffles. Blanch a pound 
of spaghetti in salted water for ten minutes, drain and put it back in the saucepan with melted 
glaze (No. 402), butter and a little of the gravy from the above stew; simmer and when finished 
cooking incorporate four ounces of grated parmesan; arrange two-thirds of this spaghetti in a 
circle on a dish, pour the stew in the center and cover with the remainder of the spaghetti. 


(9968), SPAGHETTI MACARONI, QUEEN STYLE (Macaroni Spaghetti 4 la Reine), 


Plunge one pound of spaghetti into boiling salted water, and when cooked drain in a colander 
without refreshing; return it to the saucepan with some chicken purée prepared as follows: 
Pound some roast chicken meat to a pulp with a pint of béchamel (No. 409); rub it througha sieve 
and put it in the saucepan with the spaghetti, adding salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168), nutmeg 
and meat glaze (No. 402). When thoroughly mixed incorporate slowly some butter and grated 
parmesan. Dress in a vegetable dish, scatter fine fillets of tongue and truffles over and pour on 


some clear half-glaze (No. 400). 


868 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2969). SPAGHETTI MACARONI, SALVINI (Macaroni Spaghetti & la Salvini), 


Cook in boiling and slightly salted water one pound of spaghetti macaroni, having it boil for 
twelve to fifteen minutes; drain and dress it in layers in a large vegetable dish or soup tureen, 
beginning with a layer of the macaroni; strew this with grated parmesan, and continue till finished. 
Baste over with beef gravy prepared as follows, and serve very hot: Take three pounds of rump of 
beef. Select a saucepan rather larger than the piece of beef, cover its bottom with bards of fat 
pork and sliced onions, having sufficient to conceal the bottom; lay in the meat, salt and pepper 
cover, add a clove of garlic and a garnished bunch of parsley, cover the saucepan, put it on the fire: 
and let fall toa glaze. When the meat is browned have two ounces of extract of tomatoes dis- 
solved in a quart of broth (No. 194a), and add a spoonful at a time to the saucepan until the- 
onions are well melted, then continue adding the remainder of the tomatoes and another quart of 
broth; cook the whole slowly for six hours. 


(2970). NOODLES A LA LAUER (Nouilles & la Lauer). 


Mince fine one pound of noodie paste (No. 142), rolled out to a sixteenth of an inch in thick- 
ness; cook it in boiling water for afew moments, then drain; add to it salt, pepper, nutmeg, six: 
ounces of butter, and four ounces of grated parmesan, also a little béchamel sauce (No. 409); mix. 
all together and serve. 


(2971), NOODLES, BAKED (Nouilles au Gratin), 


Butter a baking dish, lay in the same preparation as for Lauer (No. 2970), smooth nicely, and: 
dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; pour on melted butter, brown in a hot oven: 
and serve. 


(2972). NOODLES SAUTED IN BUTTER (Nouilles Sautées au Beurre), 


Bianched noodles can be sautéd in butter, drained and seasoned with salt and pepper, then 
shi ghtly browned in the oven. 


(2973), NOODLES WITH FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS (Nouilles 4 la Mie de Pain Frite), 


Prepare the noodles as for the Lauer (No. 2970), but instead of using six ounces of butter, have- 
only two, and finish precisely the same. Fry a handful of bread-crumbs in butter, and when a. 
fine color throw over the dressed noodles. It is then ready to serve. 


(2974), POLENTA (Polenta), 


A dried and crushed corn resembling semolina. Have a quart of water boiling in a saucepan,,. 
drop in like rain one pound and a half of polenta; boil for a few moments, adding a little salt and’ 
three ounces of butter, then stir in briskly a little grated parmesan. When cooked, pour it into. 
mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138), previously coated with meat glaze (No.402); when the polenta. 
is hard, unmold, or else have the molds buttered, and when the polenta is thoroughly cold unmold 
and cut each one into slices; spread a little melted butter and grated parmesan between each, then 
restore them to their respective positions; remold and place in the oven for twenty- “HN to thirty 
minutes, then unmold sige serve with a cream sauce (No. ahh 


(2975), RAMEKINS (Ramequins), 


Pour a pint of milk into a saucepan, add to it five ounces of butter, and when this boils re-. 
move it from the fire, and stir in twelve ounces of flour; beat and dry it on the fire. Remove the 
saucepan from the range and then incorporate five more ounces of butter, also five ounces of 
grated parmesan, six whole eggs and two yolks, a pinch of pepper, two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
sugar and eight ounces of Swiss cheese, cut in quarter-inch squares; mix the whole well together, 
adding a little whipped cream. Have this paste the consistency of a pate-a-chou, then drop it with 
a round spoon on a buttered pan into balls measuring an inch and a quarter in diameter; egg them 
over and decorate each ramekin with thin slices of Swiss cheese put on in form of a rosette. Cook 
ina medium oven. As soon as done take them out and detach from the pan to dress and serve: 
at once on a folded napkin. 








FARINACEOUS. 869 


(2976), RAVIOLES A LA BELLINI (Ravioles & la Bellini) 


Prepare some ravioles as explained in No, 158. After being blanched and drained put them in 
@ saucepan and cover with broth (No. 194a); cook for a few minutes, then drain and dress in layers 
in a vegetable dish, alterating each one with grated parmesan; pour over some thickened gravy 
(No. 405), mixed with meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato purée (No. 730), then serve. Ravioles can 
also be prepared the same way, and when drained and placed in the vegetable dish pour over 
some melted butter, strew over grated parmesan and bake in a moderate oven for a few minutes. 


(2977), RICE A LA MANHATTAN—LEAN (Riz au Maigre & la Manhattan), 


Chop up two ounces of onion; fry it in butter, add a pound of rice and heat both together. 
When exceedingly hot moisten to three times its height (the rice one-third and the moistening 
two-thirds) with broth (No. 194a); let boil and cook in a slack oven for twenty minutes. Incorpo- 
rate with the rice, when done, six ounces of grated’ parmesan. Pour two-thirds of this into 
a casserole or vegetable dish; make a hole in the center and fill it with shelled crawfish tails or 
shrimps and poached oysters, after removing their muscles, or else with mussels and minced 
mushroons; pour over lean velouté sauce (No. 416) reduced with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) 
and chicken glaze (No. 388); mix well and cover the whole with the remainder of the rice; put in 
a hot oven for fifteen minutes and serve. 


(2978), RICE, ORIENTAL STYLE (Riz a J’Orientale), 


Wash well and drain one pound of rice, place it in a saucepan with three quarts of boiling 
water, cover and push it into the oven; when the rice is dry and sufficiently done pour it ona 
sieve. Put three-quarters of a pound of clarified butter cooked to hazel-nut (No. 567) in a sauce- 
pan, add to it the drained rice and cover with a wet cloth; place the lid on the saucepan to close 
it hermetically, then set it in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Serve the rice in a vegetable 
dish. 


(2979), RISOT A LA FRANGATELLI (Risot & la Francatelli), 


Chop up a two-ounce onion, fry it colorless in butter and add one pound of Piedmont rice, a 
few slices of raw smoked ham and six small chipolata sausages; moisten to double the height of 
the rice with broth (No. 194a), boil, put on the lid and place the saucepan in the oven for twenty 
minutes, then remove the ham and sausages, and incorporate four ounces of hazel-nut butter (No. 
567), four ounces of grated parmesan and a very little salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168). Put 
two-thirds of this risot into a vegetable dish; garnish the top with a circle of escalops of sweetbreads 
fried in butter, and the center with the sausages, having suppressed the skin and cut them into 
slices: cover with the remainder of the risot. Serve separately a very thick rich sauce, into which 
mix some tomato paste and a little espagnole sauce (No. 414). 


(2980), RISOT A LA RISTORI (Risot a la Ristori). 


Prepare a risot the same as with Piedmontese truffles (No. 2981); dress half of it in a casserole 
or yegetable dish so as to cover the bottom and sides; in the center place a garnishing of cocks’-combs 
and kidneys, escaloped duck’s liver and sliced truffles; cover this garnishing with espagnole sauce 
(No. 414) reduced with Marsala wine; mask with the remainder of the risot and this with peeled 
halved tomatoes pressed out and fried in oil, keeping them as whole as possible. Serve apart a little 
clear gravy (No. 404) and grated parmesan. 


(2981), RISOT WITH PIEDMONTESE TRUFFLES (Risot aux Truffes du Piémont), 


Put six ounces of butter in a saucepan; when it begins to heat add to it two ounces of chopped 
onion and fry for a moment, then put in a pound of unwashed but well-picked rice. When this 
becomes quite hot moisten to double its height with broth (No. 194a), and cook very slowly while 
covered for twenty minutes. When done add six ounces of butter in small lumps, and four ounces 
of grated parmesan, stirring them in with a large carving fork, also two tablespoonfuls of meat 
glaze (No. 402) or chicken glaze (No. 398). Range the risot in a casserole or vegetable dish, cover 
the top with two ounces of fresh white Piedmont truffles, warmed in a little butter. Serve a 


clear gravy (No. 404) at the same time. 


87 | THE EPICURBAN. 


(2982). SOUFFLE, OREAMY, WITH CHEESE (oufflé Orémeux au Fromage), 


Place twelve raw egg-yolks into a saucepan; beat them with half a pound of partly melted 
butter, season with pepper and nutmeg and stir the preparation on a slow fire the same as acream, 
so that it thickens, without ceasing to stir, and without letting it boil; when done remove from 
the fire and stir in three-quarters of a pound of grated Swiss and parmesan cheese (the prepara- 
tion should remain mellow); add to it first five beaten egg-whites, mixing thoroughly but gently. 
and then two or three spoonfuls of whipped cream. Pour this preparation in a soufflé pan (Fig. 
182), lay it on a small baking sheet and cook it from eighteen to twenty minutes in a slack oven. 
Strew over grated parmesan before removing and serve at once. 


(2983), SOUFFLE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Soufflé au Fromage Parmesan), 


Have a gill of water in a saucepan, with two ounces of butter, a pinch of sugar, some whole — 
peppers and salt; let the liquid boil, then remove and stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; thicken 
the paste by beating it vigorously over a slow fire until it detaches from the saucepan: pour it 
into a basin and let get partly cold while stirring about with a spoon. Incorporate six or seven 
egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of grated parmesan and two ounces of butter divided in small pats, 
adding them all very slowly without ceasing to stir. At the last moment work in five beaten- 
up egg-whites, and lastly two or three spoonfuls of good whipped cream. With this preparation 
fill a buttered soufflé pan (Fig. 182) two-thirds full, lay it on a small baking sheet and cook for 
twenty-five minutes in a slow oven. This quantity is sufficient for eight persons. 


(2984), SOUFFLE WITH SWISS CHEESE (oufflé au Fromage de Gruyére), 


Puta quarter of a pound of flour into a saucepan with two ounces of fecula, two ounces of butter, 
five ounces of grated cheese, having half Swiss and half parmesan, a pinch of pepper and some sugar; 
dilute slowly with a pint and a half of good milk, and stir the preparation on a slow fire to thicken; 
let it dry on a very low fire until it detaches from the saucepan, then remove and let get partly cold. 
Now incorporate a piece of butter and six or seven egg-yolks; heat it for two minutes on a 
slow fire without ceasing to stir. At the last moment incorporate into the preparation five or six 
egg-whites beaten to a froth, and a quarter of a pound of fresh Swiss cheese cut in small dice. 
Pour the whole into a buttered soufflé pan (Fig. 182) and lay it on a small baking sheet; place it in — 
the oven to cook for twenty-five minutes. 


(2985), SOUFFLES WITH SWISS AND PARMESAN CHEESE—IN CASES (Soufilés en Caisses au 
Fromage de Gruyére et au Fromage Parmesan). 


Melt five ounces of butter in a saucepan; to it add seven raw egg-yolks; set the saucepan on 
the fire, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken, then put in five ounces of parmesan 
cheese, and five ounces of Swiss cheese, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, a little salt, a pinch of 
sugar, and two beaten egg-whites, mixed in after the preparation has lost its first heat. Twenty 
minutes before serving incorporate five very firmly beaten whites, and use this to fill round but- 
tered cases (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven; cook the soufflés in a slack oven; serve promptly. 


(2986). TAGLIATELLI IN CROUSTADE (Tagliatelli en Croustade), 


Cook half a pound of tagliarelli (small thin bands of paste three-sixteenths of an inch wide) in 
salted water for a few moments; drain and put them into a sautoir to season with salt, pepper | 
and nutmeg; add a little béchamel (No. 409), fresh butter, grated cheese and four raw egg-yolks. 
Butter and line a mold or ring eight inches in diameter and an inch and a half in height; fill it 
with the preparation, dredge the top with fresh bread-crumbs, besprinkle with butter and cook 
in a moderate oven; when the paste is done slip the croustade on a round dish and serve with a 
Separate tomato sauce (No. 549) mingled with meat glaze (No. 402) and velouté (No. 415). 


(2987) TIMBALE OF GNOOQUIS, A LA CHOISEUL (Timbale de Gnocquis & la Choiseul), 


Prepare a paste with a pint of milk boiled with a quarter of a pound of butter; remove it at the 
first boil and put in a half pound of sifted flour; prepare as a pate-A- chou (No. 182); boil fora 
few moments on the fire, then incorporate fourteen eggs, salt and four ounces .of grated 





pi 


FARINACEOUS. | 871 


parmesan. Turn this paste over on the table and finish with sufficient flour to have it firm and 
solid, then roll it out into thin strings a quarter of an inch in width, and divide these into quarter- 
inch lengths; roll each one to the shape of a ball and plunge them into boiling water to poach for 
three minutes, then drain and lay them in a Saucepan with grated Swiss cheese and béchamel sauce 
(to. 409). Line a timbale mold with thin foundation paste (No. 135), pour in the gnoquis and wet 
tae Inside upper edge; cover the timbale with a flat of the same paste, attach the edges solidly 
together and cook for one hour in a medium oven, remove, unmold and serve at once, dressed ona 
dish, with a little buttered velouté sauce (No. 415) served separately. 


(2988), TIMBALE MILANESE OF MACARONI OR NOODLES (Timbale de Macaroni ou de 
Nouilles, Milanaise), 


Butter the interior of a timbale mold; decorate the sides with slightly sweetened noodle 
paste (No. 142); moisten the decorations and line the whole with foundation paste (No. 135). 
Cut the bottom with a three-inch pastry cutter, but do not remove this round piece. Blanch 
some macaroni in water, drain and finish cooking in broth (No. 194a), drain once more, 
then cut it into three-inch lengths; season with a very little salt, pepper, grated parmesan 
and a liberal piece of butter. Fill the timbale with this macaroni, leaving a hollow in the center 























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to be filled with a garnishing composed of truffles, foies-gras, game quenelles, unsmoked red beef 
tongue and mushrooms, all cut an eighth of an inch thick and three quarters of an inch long; these 
ingredients to be mingled with half-glaze (No. 409) made of essence of game (No. 389). Close the 
timbale with a cover of the same paste and cook in a moderate oven. <A timbale containing two 
quarts will require an hour and a half to cook properly; invert it immediately on a dish, remove 
the round that was cut, replace it and serve. Instead of macaroni, noodles or lazagnettes may 
be substituted, proceeding precisely the same. Send at the same time with the timbale beef a-la- 
mode gravy, with tomato pulp, little meat glaze (No. 402) and brown sauce (No. 414). 


(2989), TIMBALE OF NOODLES A LA PEARSALL (Timbale de Nouilles & la Pearsall), 


Make some noodle paste the same as for No. 142; roll it out a sixteenth of an inch thick 
and leave it dry slightly, then cut into very thin fillets and cook these in salted water for one 
minute; drain and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add six egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound 
of butter and a quarter of a pound of parmesan cheese. Garnish a timbale mold measuring five 
by five inches with foundation paste (No. 135), line the bottom and side with buttered paper, fill 
with rice, place a round of buttered paper on top, moisten the upper edge, cover over with a lid of 
paste and cook in a moderate oven for an hour. Unmold when cold, bread-crumb and egg over 
twice, mark it on the top half an inch from the edge and fry in white frying fat; remove the cover 
and empty out the timbale. Fry in butter one ounce of finely chopped onions with half a pound 
of minced mushrooms, add salt, pepper, nutmeg, meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 
549). Arrange the noodles in the timbale in layers separated with the mushrooms and grated 
parmesan. Pour over some gravy (No. 404) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and the 


timbale is ready to serve. 





SWEHEEHET ENTREMETS. 
SWEET ENTREMETS—HOT (Entremets de Douceur—Chauds), 


“ 


(2990), APPLES A LA GIUDICI (Pommes a la Giudici), 


Remove the cores from a dozen small pretty apples; peel them evenly and cook them in a light 
syrup of about twelve degrees. As soon as done, drain and place them in a vessel to cover with a 
hot vanilla syrup of thirty degrees. Witha large vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) scoop out about thirty 
round balls from some large apples, blanch, drain and place them in another vessel containing a 
hot syrup colored with carmine. With the apple parings and a few more apples prepare som> 
marmalade with vanilla; reduce till somewhat thick and with this fill a dozen small Savarin 
molds to the top, and let harden. Have a pastry cutter of the same diameteras the Savarin molds 
and with it cut out a dozen round pieces of cooked brioche a quarter of an inch thick; bestrew 
them with sugar and range on a baking .sheet, then place them in the oven to glaze; mask this 
glazed side with currant jelly. Dress on each one the apple paste borders, having ha: them cooked 
in the Savarin molds, and fill up the hollow centers with vanilla frangipane (No. 44) mixed with a 
sulpicon of pineapple cut in dice, and on top dress the apples that have been previously drained 
and covered with a layer of lightly tinted pink jelly. Dredge over with finely chopped pistachios, 
fill the empty spaces in the apples with vanilla frangipane and on top set a small round croquette 
made of chestnut purée (No. 3017). Range these dressed apples in a circle on a dish, fill the middle 
with the small apple balls, mixed with a few whole pistachios, the whole mingled with some apple 
jelly (No. 3668). Serve separately a sauce made of the apple juice thickened with a little apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675) and flavored with kirsch. 


(2991), APPLES A LA NELSON (Pommes & la Nelson). 


Prepare a semolina croquette preparation (No. 3019), pour it into a flawn mold (No. 3170) 
previously buttered and sugared; place this in a buttered sautoir and push it into a very slack 
oyen to harden the preparation. Have eight fine apples, suppress the cores with a column tube, 
enlarge the orifices slightly and peel them very neatly; range them in asantoir and cover with 
syrup, and then cook them in the oven; as soon as done drain on a grate and cover with strained 
peach marmalade (No. 3675). Unmold the semolina on a dish and dress the apples around the 
edge in a circle; fill the holes in these with marmalade, and lay on each a small round semolina 
croquette with a piece of angelica to represent a stalk; decorate the edge of the semolina with a 
wreath composed of angelica lozenges and candied cherries, and fill up the center with some of 
the same cherries (demi-sucre); push it into the oven for about fifteen minutes and serve with a 
vanilla syrup thickened with peach marmalade. 

A surtout is a plain round or oval base made of semolina, ete., about three-quarters to ons 
inch high. 


(2992), APPLES BAKED (Pommes au Fouri. 


Use a five-eighth inch tin tube from the column box fo core some eood russet apples without peel- 
ing them: cut off a strip of the peel all around the middle and lay the apples beside each other 
on a dish fit for the oven, leaving half an inch space between each one. Fill up tthe hole in the 
center of each apple with white or brown sugar, and place a little melted butter on the top of 
them all; pour a little hot water into the bottom of the dish and push the apples into a slack oven 
for about half an hour. Should the oven be too hot, cover them over with paper. Serve in the 


same dish they were cooked in. 
(873) 


874 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2993) APPLES, BARON DE BRISSE STYLE (Pommes 4 la Baron de Brisse), 


Peel twelve medium-sized apples, remove the cores with a tin tube, rub them over with lemon 
and cook in a light syrup, being careful to keep them slightly firm; drain on a cloth. Prepare a 
croquette of semolina preparation (No. 3019); spread some of it on the bottom of a dish, having it 
half an inch thick, and pour the remainder in a pocket furnished with a channeled socket (Fig. 179) 
and push this out in the shape of a plait to form a border around the inside edge of the dish; range 
the apples in the center; fill the cavity of the apples with cream rice preparation (No. 160) 
and on the top of each one place a small cream rice pear-shaped croquette, containing a shred of 
angelica to imitate a stalk. Decorate the border between each apple with angelica lozenges and pre- 
served cherries (demi-sucre), and fill up the center with whole marrons cooked in light syrup with 
vanilla, and mixed with a few spoonfuls of Smyrna raisins washed in hot water, the whole to be 
stirred with a littie apricot marmalade. Serve separately a chestnut syrup with vanilla taken from 
some preserved chestnuts (No. 3689). 


(2994), APPLES BROWNED (Pommes Gratinées). 


Have about fifteen nice small apples; empty the centers with a half-inch in diameter column 
box tube; peel and pare them round, then blanch in acidulated water, keeping them whole. 
Drain and fill the hollow centers with frangipane cream (No. 44), finished with a wholeegg. Range 
the apples in a baking dish, pour over some apricot and vanilla syrup, and put them for half an 





Hic. 572, 


hour in a slack oven, basting over frequently to finish cooking and glaze. At the last moment 
spread on the bottom of a vegetable dish a thick layer of vanilla cream rice (No. 160), having it 
very soft; remove the apples one by one with a palette knife and dress them on the rice, pressing 
them down slightly; close the middle hole with a half-sugared cherry, or with a round piece of 
greengage half an inch in diameter. Bestrew over with finely chopped and sifted almonds mixed 
with sugar; brush the surface lightly with butter, then brown for a few moments under a sala- 
mander (Fig. 123), or in a hot oven, until a fine color is attained, then serve at once. 


(2995), APPLES IN SURPRISE (Pommes en Surprise), 


Roll out sufficient puff paste parings (No. 146) to the thickness of an eighth of an inch to make 
eight squares of five incheseach. Peel and turn eight good medium-sized russet apples to have them 
two and a half inches in diameter; empty out the cores with a five-eighth of an inch column tube, 
and on each square of paste lay one apple; brush them over with butter, besprinkle with sugar, 
then fill the hollow in the apple with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); wet the edges of the paste, 
raise it up and enclose the apples well inside, attaching it firmly oa top; moisten this and lay over 
it a round piece of paste cut out with a channeled pastry cutter (Fig. 16). Range the apples on a 
baking sheet a short distance apart, egg over, and cook in a slow oven for three-quarters of an hour. 


Ten minutes before removing glaze them over with sugar, and lay them on a dish as soon as they 
are done. 


(2996), APPLES, NUBIAN—MERINGUED (Pommes Meringuées & la Nubienne). 


Cut in four eight fine apples; peel, core and round the angles, rub them over with lemon, and 
range them in a sautoir one beside the other; cover lightly with melted butter, and bestrew with 
vanilla sugar, then place a sheet of buttered paper over and cook ina slack oven. Butter and 
sugar a plain border mold (Fig. 138), fill it to the top with cream rice flavored with vanilla (No. 
160), and finished with a few egg-yolks; lay it on a baking tin with water to reach to half its 
height, and set in a slack oven to harden. Spread a layer of the same rice on the bottom of a dish, 
unmold the border on this, and mask the inside with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); on this range 





4 
; 
a 
7 


SWEHET ENTREMETS. 875. 


% 


the cooked quartered apples in a pyramid, and glaze them over with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) > 
cover it with meringue (No. 140), shaping it like a dome over all; smooth it with a knife, and deco- 
rate the entire surface with rows of beads, having the largest at the base and decreasing at the top, 
made of the same, sticking a small piece of almond into each one. Dredge with sugar, and put. 
the dish in a very slack oven to color the meringue slightly. 


(2997), APPLE “PAIN” WITH VANILLA (Pain de Pommes 3 la Vanille), 


Make a pint and a half of fine apple purée, and reduce it with half a pound of sugar. Put. 
into a vessel six ounces of butter, beat it up to a cream, adding two egg-yolks and two whole eggs, 
one at a time, and then a pinch of salt; when this becomes very frothy, add to it a teaspoonful 
of fecula, six ounces of pulverized macaroons and the apple purée. Butter and flour a plain cylin- 
drical mold (Fig. 150), fill it up with the preparation, and lay it in asautoir, with water to half its 
height, then cook it in an oven. Just when ready to serve, unmold on a dish and send to the 
table with a bowlful of very fine apple purée diluted with vanilla syrup. 


(2998), APPLES, PORTUGUESE (Pommes & la Portugaise), 


Peel twelve medium-sized apples, remove the cores with a column tube, and cook them in a. 
light syrup; as soon as done drain on to a cloth, wipe and brush over with a layer of apricot mar- 
malade (No. 3675). Cut someslices of savarin, half an inch thick, and from these cut a dozen rounds. 
with atwo and a quarter inch diameter pastry cutter; cut some grooves on one of the surfaces a 
quarter of an inch apart to form lozenges; strew this cut side with powdered sugar, and range the 
slices on a baking sheet, push into the oven to glaze, and when removed mask the glazed side with 
currant jelly, then dress in a circle on a dish; lay an apple on each, and fill the holes in them with 
currant jelly; set on each a small cream rice croquette (No. 3018), made in the shape of a three- 
quarter inch ball. Fill the inside of the circle with stewed cherries mingled with currant and 
maraschino syrup, and serve separately a sauce-boat of currant sauce, made with currant jelly 
dissolved in a few spoonfuls of boiling syrup, and flavored with maraschino. 


(2999), APPLES WITH BUTTER (Pommes au Beurre), 


Cut four fine russet apples in quarters; peel and pare them, and range in a well-buttered sau- 
toir; moisten with a few spoonfuls of twenty degree syrup, and the juice of a lemon; cover over 
with a well-buttered paper, and finish cooking in a slow oven. When done dress on a dish in @, 
circle, and add to the sautoir a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675) with some Madeira wine; boil 
up with the lid on; strain the sauce through a tammy, and pour it over the apples. 


(3000), APPLES WITH BURNT ALMONDS (Pommes au Pralin). 


Cut six fine apples across in two; remove the cores with a column tube, peel and round the 
angles; cook them in a light syrup acidulated with lemon juice, being careful to keep them slightly 
firm. As soon as done drain, wipe, and cover with a layer of burnt almonds (No. 1); bestrew with 
sugar, place them on a buttered baking sheet, and set into an oven to color. Cut half-inch thick 
slices of savarin, and from these stamp out a dozen round pieces the same diameter as the apples; 
cover them on one side with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and over this a layer of burnt almonds 
as used for the apples; dredge with sugar, range them on a baking sheet, and push into the oven. 
As soon as the crusts are browned lay them in a circle on a dish with an apple on top. 
of each; fill the hollow of these with vanilla pastry cream (No. 46), and on top set a fine large: 
preserved cherry (demi-sucre); fill the center of the circle with fresh strawberries, over which has. 
been poured some sugar cooked to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171), and flavored with maraschino. 


(3001), APRICOTS A LA JEFFERSON (Abricots & la Jefferson), 


Infuse a vanilla bean in a quart of hot milk for half an hour, then take it out and set the 
milk on the fire; drop into it like rain six ounces of farina. Let this boil a few minutes, then 
remove from the hot fire to a slower one, so that it continues to cook without boiling. Then add 
to it six egg-yolks, two ounces of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, and two egg-whites. 
beaten toa stiff froth. Butter twelve timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); put into the bottom of 
each a ring of apricot paste and fill the interior of this ring with a round piece of angelica. Fill 
the molds with the above preparation and keep them ina bain-marie for twenty-five minutes, 
then unmold and dress in a circle on a dish. Drain some fine compotes of halved apricots, wipe 


876 | THE EPICUREAN. 


them well and dress them in a dome in the center of the circle. Cover them over with the apricot 
syrup reduced with sugar and maraschino. Decorate the intersections of the apricots with halved, 
freshly skinned almonds and cherries (demi-sucre). Lay on the edge of the dish between each ~ 
timbale a brandied greengage and a brandied cherry. Place the dish after it has been decorated in 
the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes and serve with an apricot and kirsch sauce in a sauce-boat, 
made as follows: Put three gills of apricot pulp into a copper pan, with as much water and half 
a pound of sugar; let boil up once or twice; then strain the sauce through a fine sieve and add 
one gill of kirsch to it. 3 


(3002). BABA WITH MARSALA (Baba au Marsala). 


Fill a buttered baba mold to half its height with a baba paste (No. 129) without any raisins; 
set it to rise in a rather mild temperature until the mold is nearly full, then bake it in a moder- 
ate oven. As soon as done cut it off even with the top of the mold. Unmold, and pour over a 
rum syrup, favored with vanilla and orange peel; drain it well and glaze it with lemon icing 
(No. 102). Dress it on a very hot dish and fill up the inside of the hollow space with fruits pre- 
pared as follows, serving the surplus of them in a sauce-boat: 


Preparation of Fruits.—Put in asaucepan a quarter of a pound of well-cleaned sultana 
raisins (No. 157), two ounces of candied orange peel, two ounces of candied green almonds and 
two ounces of candied pineapple, the whole to be cut in small three-sixteenths inch squares; two 
gills of Marsala wine, three gills of syrup at thirty-two degrees, the peel of half a lemon and the 
peel of half an orange; put the saucepan on the fire and take it off at the first boil. 


(3003), BANANAS, CHERRY SAUCE—FRIED (Bananes Frites, Sauce aux Cerises). 


Cut some bananas lengthwise in two, roll them in finely pulverized macaroons and then in 
flour, and fry in very hot oil until they acquire a good color; drain on a cloth, wipe and coat over 
with some apricot marmalade (No. 3675), laid on with a brush. Dish them up pyramidically and 
dredge over freshly peeled and shredded pistachio nuts. Serve a currant sauce, with cherries. 
apart, made by putting four heaping tablespoonfuls of currant jelly in a saucepan and diluting it 
with a pint of syrup at thirty degrees. Stand the saucepan on the fire, let boil a few times, then 
strain the syrup through a fine sieve; add to it one gill of kirsch and a good handful of preserved 
cherries previously washed in hot water. 


(3004), BISCUITS, FRASCATI (Biscuits Frascati). 


Break twelve eggs, putting the yolks in one vessel and the whites in another; add to the yolks 
three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar and beat 
well with a whip to obtain a very light and frothy preparation. Then add to it six ounces of flour 
and six ounces of fecula sifted together, and afterward the stiffly beaten egg-whites;, stir the prepa- 

ration until perfect. Butter and flour a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150); fill it two-thirds full 
with the preparation and cook it in a slack oven. As soon as done unmold and let get cold. When: 
cold, cut it up in transversal slices a quarter of an inch thick and cover each slice with a layer of 
jiue vanilla cream (No. 42); dredge the surfaces with a finely chopped salpicon of pineapple and 
pistachios. Reconstruct the biscuit to its original shape, cover it with a layer of apricot marmalade 
(No. 3675) and bestrew the sides with chopped pistachios. Now place it on a dish; decorate the 
top with a rosette of fine candied pink and white pears cut in four and intermingle them with loz- 
enges of angelica; brush these fruits over with a very thick syrup and surround the base with a row 
of apples cooked in butter, having small sticks of angelica placed between each. Fill the hollow 
center of the biscuit with cream rice flavored with vanilla (No. 160) and keep the biscuit warm for 
twenty minutes, serving it with a flavored English cream sauce. 


English Cream Sauce Flavored with Vanilla.—Place in a vessel eight egg-yolks, half a pound 
of sugar and one ounce of starch; beat up a moment to have the mixture smooth. Stand a 
quart of milk on the fire in a saucepan with a split vanilla bean added to it and let boil; as soon as 
this occurs pour it gently over the eggs and stir all well together. Pour it all back into the sauce- 
pan, place it again on the fire and thicken the sauce without permitting it to boil, stirring continu- 


ously with a spatula, then strain through a ane sieve. The vanilla can be replaced by liquors 
added at the last moment. : pee 





SW.HET, .ENTREMETS. 87% 


(3005). BORDER OF RICE WITH BANANAS ‘Bordures de Riz aux Bananes), 


Make a consistent rice cream preparation (No.160) flavored with vanilla, and finish it with a few 
egg-yolks. Divide this into two portions, and into one incorporate a salpicon of chestnuts cut up 
small and candied pineapple cut in quarter-inch dice. Butter and sugar a plain border or sayarin 
mold (Fig. 139),and with the rice which has no fruit cover the sides, then fill the mold with the rice 
and fruit, smooth the top and set this border in a sautoir with hot water reaching halfway up, and 
push it into a slack oven for twenty-five minutes. Unmold the border on a dish, and ornament 
the top with a handsome circle of angelica lozenges and candied cherries, and surround the base 
with preserved plums. Peel some fine bananas, cut them up into transversal slices a quarter of an 
inch thick, plunge them into a thick maraschino syrup, let simmer for a few moments, then drain 
and range them in a pyramid in the center of the border. Brush the top over with apricot mar- 
malade (No. 3675), and dredge finely chopped pistachios over all; heat the border in the oven 
for twenty minutes, and serve with a sauce-boat of sauce made with apple jelly (No. 3668), diluted. 
with a little syrup and flavored with maraschino. 


(3006), BRIOCHES ST, MARK (Brioches St. Marc), 


Butter twelve small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), fill them three-quarters high with brioche. 
paste (No. 130), and leave to rise in a mild temperature, and when the molds are partly full bake 
them inaslowoven. After taking them out cut them off level with the tops of the molds and 
leave in till cold, then empty them partially and pour over the insides some syrup flavored with 
maraschino and almond milk (No. 4), filling them up with frangipane cream (No. 43). Cover the 
outsides with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and strew the sides with green pistachios and white 
almonds, both chopped up finely. Ornament the tops of each brioche with a rosette composed of 
halved pistachios and a;split cherry laid in the center. Dress them in a circle on a dish, and ar- 
range in the center some stewed halved peaches. Cover the ornamentation on the brioches with 
maraschino syrup thickened with a little apricot marmalade, and dress in the intersection of the 
peaches some freshly shelled white split almonds, and also some candied halved cherries, then 
serve. Have a sauce-boat of English vanilla cream sauce (No. 3004) to accompany this entremets. 


(3007), CHARLOTTE A LA DESTREY (Charlotte a la Destrey), 


Butter a charlotte mold, either round or oval, this depending on the dish required for serving, 
and line it with fine foundation paste (No. 135), then let stand in the ice-box for half an hour. Cut 
eight apples in quarters, peel, core and lay them beside each other on a buttered baking sheet; be- 
sprinkle with sugar and cover with a sheet of buttered paper, then cook in the oven and when done 
remove and let cool off. Prepare a frangipane cream (No. 43); add to it a few spoonfuls of cream 
rice (No. 160) and a salpicon of fruit, such as green almonds, pears, apricots, a little orange peel cut 
in thin shreds and a few crushed macaroons. Fill up the charlotte in layers of cream and apples. 
(peaches or pears may be substituted), and smooth the surface; lay the mold on’a baking pan, 
push it into the oven and let cook for about oné hour; as soon as finished remove and let rest for 
ten minutes before unmolding it on a dish, then cover with well-reduced apricot marmalade: 
(No. 3675) and sprinkle highly with chopped roasted almonds; decorate the top with an angelica 
rosette and around the base of this with a circle of fine halved pistachios; fasten a nice cherry in the 
center of the rosette and all around a circle of preserved cherries (demi-sucre), cut in two and 
laid flat on the charlotte. Serve at the same time as this entremets a sauce-boat of English cream 
sauce, flavored with brandy and Madeira (No. 3004). 


(3008), APPLE CHARLOTTE (Charlotte de Pommes), 


Cut a few russet apples in four, peel, core and mince them up rather coarsely, then put them 
into a sautoir with some melted butter; stir and toss incessantly over a good fire until the moisture 
is reduced, then sweeten. Butter a four-inch high by four and a half inches in diameter char- 
lotte mold, cover the bottom with a flat rosette made of long triangles of bread, an eighth of an inch 
thick, pointed on one end and rounded on the other, carefully dipping them as needed in clarified 
butter. These slices should slightly overlap each other. Remove the center with a one-inch tube 
and replace with a round of bread of the same size dipped in butter. Cut some one-eighth inch 
thick slices of bread into inch-wide strips, having them somewhat higher than the mold; dip them 
in clarified butter and apply them upright to the inner side of the mold, one overlapping the other, 


S78 THE EPICUREAN. 


cut flush with the mold; cover the bottom and sides of the mold with part of the apples, and in 
the center put three spoonfuls of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); finish filling with the remainder 
of the apples, and cover these with a round piece of bread the same size as the mold, then lay the 










































































































































































Hh Aa 


Be B73. Fie. 574. 

mold on a small baking sheet, push it into a hot oven and leave for twenty-five to thirty minutes, 
so that the bread becomes a fine golden color. Should it brown too fast put a metal cover on top. 
Invert the charlotte on a hot dish and serve it at once with an apricot and maraschino sauce 
poured around (see Humboldt pudding, No. 3100). 


(3009), COMPIEGNE WITH SABAYON (Compiggne au Sabayon), 


Butter a dozen small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 187}, and fill them three-quarters full 
with Compiégne paste (No. 3236); let rise in a mild temperature, then set them on a baking sheet, 
and cook in a slack oven. When done, remove and cut them off exactly level with the molds; 
unmold and dip them at once into a light syrup flavored with Madeira wine and vanilla; drain on 
a grate, and then dish them up in acircle. Prepare some rings of apricot paste of the same 
diameter as the top of the timbales; put them on the top of each Compiégne, place a mirabel plum 
in the center of each, and stick a piece of angelica into each one. Cover the Compiégnes with a 
Madeira sabayon, as for cabinet pudding (No. 3096), serving more of it separately. 


(3010), OREAM A LA MAINTENON—FRIED (Orame Frite & la Maintenon), 


Remove the outer shells from three-quarters of a pound of chestnuts; plunge them into boiling 
water and let boil up once or twice; then remove the saucepan from the fire, and quickly abstract 
the second skin; return them to a saucepan and cover with milk, adding a quarter of a vanilla 
stick; cook very slowly, and then press through a sieve. Put the purée into a bowl, pour over 
six ounces of sugar cooked to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171) and mix it into the pulp, beating it 
vigorously. Spread this on a sheet of buttered paper to a quarter of an inch in thickness. Prepare 
a pound of white and delicate apple pulp, put it in a saucepan with a pound of sugar, and reduce; 
then add a tablespoonful of fecula, and a gill of water; spread this over the chestnuts and smooth 
it to the same thickness, then let get cold. Cut it into lozenges, and cover each one with apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675); roll them carefully in pulverized macaroons; then dip them in beaten eggs, 
and afterward in bread-crumbs; smooth with the blade of a knife, and fry to a fine color in hot 
white frying fat; drain, wipe, and bestrew with vanilla sugar, then dress in a pyramid on a folded 
napkin, and serve with a separate English cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004). 


(3011), CREAM OF BISCUIT WITH KIRSCH (Créme de Biscuits au Kirsch), 


Put six whole eggs and four yolks into a vessel with a grain of salt and six ounces of sugar, a 
part of which is to be flavored with orange. (This flavored sugar is obtained by rubbing the entire 
surface of the fruit on a sugar loaf, and then grating the flavored part off, either with a knife or 
spoon.) Beat the preparation with a whip, and dilute it slowly with a quart of raw milk and four 
gills of raw cream. Soak four ounces of lady fingers in milk, then drain on a sieve, and put them 
in a bowl; dilute with the above preparation, and pass the whole through a sieve, then stir in one 
gill of kirsch. Butter a charlotte mold, and fill it with the preparation; set it in a saucepan con- 
taining hot water, and place it on the fire; let the water come to a boil, and keep it in this state 
for thirty minutes, either on the side of a slow fire or else in a slack oven. When the cream is 
firm to the touch in the center, take it off and and leave it for half an hour longer in the water so 
that it hardens, then unmold on a dish and pour over a kirsch syrup. ° 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 879 


(3012), CREAM OF CHESTNUTS WITH CARAMEL SUGAR (Orame de Marrons au Caramel), 


Cook a pound of skinned chestnuts in water with a quarter of a vanilla bean, then rub them 
through a sieve into a vessel, and add six whole beaten eggs and four yolks, also half a pound 
of sugar; dilute with a pint of raw milk, mix well, and pass the whole through a sieve. Pour into 
the bottom of a plain timbale mold one gill of sugar cooked to caramel: when cold butter the sides 
of the mold, and fill it up with the chestnut preparation; set the mold into a saucepan with hot 
water to half its height, leave it on the fire, and just when it reaches the boiling point cover and 
keep it cooking slowly, or else place it in a slack oven to maintain the liquid at the same temper- 
ature without boiling for fifty to sixty minutes, or until the preparation is firm to the touch in the 
center. Invert the cream on a dish, and cover it with the caramel sugar found on the bottom of 
the mold. 


(8013), CREAM PAMELA—FRIED (Oréme Frite Paméla), 


Put four eggs, two yolks, four ounces of sugar and the peel of one lemon into a bowl, beat 
them up with a whip and dilute with a pint of milk, then run it through a sieve. Butter and 
sugar twelve six-sided molds, the size of timbale molds No. 2, Fig. 187, but only half as high; fill the 
bottoms with a layer of candied cherries cut in four, lay on these candied pineapple and angelica 
washed in hot water and cut in small quarter-inch squares; scatter broken macaroons over the 
fruit; pour on a little of the strained preparation to soak, and prevent floating to the top, then | 
finish filling. Place these molds in a stewpan and pour in the bottom boiling water to reach to 
half their height; set this in a moderate oven to poach the cream, and as soon as done remove 
from the oven and let get cold in the water. When cold unmold them, roll in biscuit dust, dip 
in beaten eggs and finish by rolling in white bread-crumbs, smooth with the blade of a knife, then 
plunge them into hot frying fat and fry to a fine golden color, drain on a cloth and bestrew with 
vanilla sugar, then serve with a Bischoff sauce, made as follows: 


Bischoff Sauce.—Place half a pint of white wine and as much syrup into a saucepan; boil and 
thicken this liquid with a spoonful of fecula diluted in a little cold water; add the peel of a lemon 
and the same of an orange cut in Juiienne and previously blanched, also two ounces of almonds and 
two ounces of shredded pistachios, two ounces each of seeded Malaga and Smyrna raisins and of 
currants, thoroughly washed in hot water; boil a few times, then serve. 


(3014), GREAM WITH APPLES (Créme aux Pommes). 


Mince six peeled russet apples, fry them for a few moments in butter in a thin sautoir to soften 
slightly without letting them melt; sweeten moderately. Make a pint of cream of biscuit prepa- 
ration (No. 3011), strain it through a fine sieve and place it in a saucepan, then heat it slightly 
while stirring over a slow fire. Mix the apples in with the cream and pour the whole into a deep 
china baking dish; cook for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven and if deemed necessary 
cover over with paper. Besprinkle the surface with fine sugar a few moments before serving, then 
remove from the oven and serve in the same dish. 


(8015). ORESCENTS OF NOODLES WITH CHERRIES (Croissants de Nouilles aux Oerises), 


Cut up finely about a pound of noodles (No. 142), blanch, drain and put them into a saucepan 
with two gills of cream, two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, two ounces of sugar and three 
tablespoonfuls of brandy; set the saucepan on a slack fire and let cook slowly, being careful to stir 
the contents at frequent intervals until all the moisture is absorbed, then pour the preparation on 
two baking sheets covered with buttered paper, spreading to a layer three-eighths of an inch thick. 
Bake in a hotoven. Unmold as soon as done and cover one of these flats with a thick layer of 
reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675); on top place the other flat, then cut into crescents, using a 
pastry cutter two and a half inches in diameter. Dress these crescents in a circle on a dish and fill 
the center with compoted cherries, serving a separate cherry and kirsch sauce (No. 3003). 


(3016), CROQUETTES A LA TRIMALCION (Groquettes & la Trimalcion), 

Cut twelve apples in four, peel and core them, then cut into small dice; put them into a sau- 
toir, pour over a few spoonfuls of butter and fry, and as soon as done remove from the fire and 
add a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of cinnamon, a handful of candied cherries cut in four and 
two spoonfuls of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); pour this on a baking sheet to cool off. Mold this 


preparation into inch and a quarter balls, 


shave them into cylindrical croquettes am inch in 


880 THE EPICUREAN. 


diameter, roll in cracker dust, dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs; smooth the breading 
with a knife and plunge the croquettes into hot frying fat; fry till they become a light golden color, 


then drain on a cloth; strew over powdered sugar and dee on a napkin. Serve with a sauce-~ 


tureen of cherry sauce prepared the same as for fried bananas with cherry sauce (No. 3008). 


(3017), CROQUETTES OF CHESTNUTS (Croquettes de Marrons), 


Select four pounds of fine, sound chestnuts; slit them on one side and put them to roast in a 
large perforated pan; cover and toss at times until done. They may also be cooked by placing 
them on a baking sheet and then in a hot oven to roast without blackening. Skin them, remoy- 
ing both the skins, and picking out twenty of the finest, pound the others to a fine paste. 
Add, while continuing to pound, two ounces of vanilla sugar and a little raw cream. Pass 
this preparation through a sieve and put it into a saucepan, beating into it six egg-yolks, them 
dry over the fire while stirring. Pour this on a baking sheet and leave till cold, then divide it into 
parts and of each one make an inch and a quarter diameter ball; in the center of each insert one 
of the roasted chestnuts split in two; mold the croquettes to the shape of a chestnut, dip them in 
beaten eggs, roll in white bread-crumbs and fry in very hot clear frying fat; when done, drain and 
sponge, besprinkle with vanilla sugar and dress on a napkin. ~ . 


(3018), CROQUETTES OF RICE WITH ORANGE, RASPBERRY SAUCE (Croquettes de Riz a 
YOrange, Sauce Framboise), 


Blanch half a pound of rice in plenty of water; drain and put it back into a saucepan with: 
sufficient boiling milk to cover, then set it on the corner of the-range to finish cooking while stir- 
ring it at times with a wooden spoon. As soon as the rice is consistent and dry, work into it. 
eight egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, two ounces of orange sugar, a pinch of salt, two tablespoon- 
fuls of whipped cream and two tablespoonfuls of candied orange peel shredded very fine. Spread 
this preparation on a buttered baking tin covered over with a sheet of paper and let it get cold. 
Divide it into balls each two inches in diameter, and draw them down on one end to give them the: 
shape of a pear; dip in beaten eggs, then roll in white bread-crumbs and plunge them in plenty of 
hot fat to fry to a fine golden brown; drain, sponge, and stick a piece of angelica into the ends to: 
imitate the stalk of a pear; besprinkle lightly with orange sugar, dress on a napkin and serve with a 
raspberry sauce made with a pint of raspberry juice mingled with as much boiling syrup, and 
Curagao, straining the whole through a fine wire sieve. 


(8019), CROQUETTES OF SEMOLINA, PISTACHIO SAUCE (Croquettes de Sonia Sauce aux 
Pistaches), 


Boil a quart of milk, add to it half a split vanilla stick and keep it warm in a covered sauce- 
pan; take out the vanilla and place the milk on a hot fire, and at the first boil drop into it like 
rain six ounces of semolina, stirring the preparation continuously with a whisk, and cover the 
saucepan; push it into a slack oven and take it out again fifteen minutes later. Mix in with the 
semolina four ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a little salt and.eight. egg-yolks; stir: in well 
with a spoon two ounces of apricot, two ounces of cherries, an ounce of pineapple and. an ounce 
of orange peel, all cut in quarter-inch dice. Spread this on a baking sheet covered over 
with paper and let it get cold. Then divide it into inch and a half: diameter balls; roll these in, 
powdered macaroons, dip in beaten egg, and finally roll in white bread-crumbs; fry to a fine color, 
drain on a cloth, wipe and bestrew with vanilla sugar. Dress the croquettes on a napkin and serve 


separately an English cream sauce (No. 3004), into which has been added green pistachios shredded. 
finely. 


(3020). CROUSTADES OF VENICE, MERINGUED (Oroustades de Venise Meringuées), 


Line some small buttered fruit pie circles, three-quarters of an inch high and two anda quarter- 
inches in diameter, with fine foundation paste (No. 135), or else puff paste parings (No. 146); raise 
an edge and pinch it; place them on a baking sheet and egg the edges of each pie over twice. Put 
into a vessel four spoonfuls of fecula or arrowroot, six ounces of vanilla sugar, a grain of salt, eight 
whole eggs and eight yolks; mix well with a whisk and dilute with a pint and a half of cream or 
rich milk; strain the preparation through a sieve and then pour it into a saucepan containing four 
ounces of fresh butter; stir on the fire until the butter is entirely melted, and with this prepara- 





a a 


iS" 


SWEET ENTREMETS. Sst 


tion fill the small pies, then put them into a slack oven to cook without browning; when the cream. 
has set and the paste is cooked, remove the croustades and leave them till nearly cold. Oover the 
tops with meringue, forming it into a dome; decorate this, leaving a hollow in the center and dredge 
vanilla sugar over the whole; return them to a slow oven to brown to a fine light golden color, 
then take them from their molds and finish decorating with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) pushed: 
through a cornet and some angelica and preserved cherries (demi-sucre). 


For a Large Croustade.—Line a shallow hot pie mold with fine foundation paste (No. 135): 
or puff paste parings (No. 146); lay it on a baking sheet and fill it up with the same preparation as: 
for the above; put it into a slack oven to cook for one hour. When the cream has set and the 
paste is cooked take out the croustade and let get partly cold before unmolding; cover it with 
meringue (No. 140), shaping it as a dome; decorate and finish the same as for the above. 


(8021). GOLDEN CRUSTS (Crotites Dorées), 


Scrape off the crust from some table flutes and cut them in slices half an inch thick, then range 
them one beside the other on a dish; pour over a little sweetened raw cream mixed with a few 
egg-yolks. Let the crusts soak for ten to twelve minutes, basting them over with the cream, and 
then take them out and extract the moisture lightly; dip them into slightly sweetened beaten 
eggs, then drain and plunge them into hot frying fat a few at a time; drain as fast as they 
brown nicely, and bestrew the surfaces with sugar; serve with fruit preserves or else an English 
vanilla sauce (No. 3004). 


(3022). CRUSTS OF PINEAPPLE, APRICOT SAUCE (Crofites aux Ananas, Sauce d’Abricots), 


Cut from cooked savarin some slices three-eighths of an inch thick; from these remove some 
rounds three inches in diameter; divide these in two through the center and notch them on 
their convex side. Arrange these slices shaped like cocks’-combs on a baking sheet, dredge 
them over with sugar, and glaze in a brisk oven; cover them on the unglazed side with straw- 
berry marmalade strained through a sieve, and lay on each one a fine slice of preserved pine- 
apple; decorate the borders of the crusts reaching out beyond the pineapple with angelica lozenges. 
and candied cherries cut in four, then dress them on a dish in a circle, one overlapping the other. 
Fill the hollow of the circle with candied fruits cut in dice, such as apricots, pears, green- 
gages, green almonds, candied cherries, orange peel and angelica, the whole washed in warm water, 
and then mingled with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) flavored with kirsch; heat the dish after 
it is dressed in the oven for ten minutes. Serve an apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001) separately. 


(3023), ORUSTS WITH BANANAS A LA PANAMA (Crofites aux Bananes & la Panama), 


Slice some brioche three-quarters of an inch thick, and from them remove a dozen rounds 
with a two and a quarter inch diameter pastry cutter; cut them all around a short distance from 
the edges and empty out the insides; lay them on a baking sheet, besprinkle with sugar and glaze 
in a quick oven; after they come from the oven cover the insides with guava jelly softened with a 
little maraschino. Peel six fine very ripe bananas, cut them across in slices an eighth of an inch 
thick, and plunge into a hot syrup of twenty-five degrees, flavored with maraschino, leaving them 
in for five minutes only, then drain and dress dome-shaped on the crusts, covering over with very 
hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675); dredge with fresh finely chopped pistachios and dress in a 
circle on a dish; fill the inside of this with pineapple cut in quarter-inch squares, thrown into 
the syrup in which the bananas were cooked, then brought to a boil, and mingled with some 
guava jelly diluted with syrup and flavored with maraschino, serving separately a hot sauce made 
with apricot marmalade, grated pineapple and maraschino. 


(3024), CORUSTS WITH CHERRIES OR STRAWBERRIES A LA MICHELET (Orofites aux 
Cerises ou aux Fraises & la Michelet). 


Gut some slices an inch thick from a very firm kitchen loaf, using only the crumb part; froms 
them obtain six rounds with atwo and a half inch diameter pastry cutter, and cut these rounds in 
two through their diameter so as to have twelve half-rounds. Cut partly through these half-rounds 
a short distance from the edge with a small kitchen knife, square the corners and plunge them into 
hot clarified butter to have them assume a fine golden color. Drain them at once on a cloth, wipe 
and empty out the centers. Cover the inside with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fill 


882 THE EPICUREAN. 


them level to the top with rice and cream (No. 160) flavored with vanilla and finished with a few 


egg-yolks and then mask the tops with a heavy layer of strawberry jam, mixed with almonds and 
pistachios. Dress these crusts prepared in this manner in a circle ona dish and fill the center of it 
with stewed fresh cherries or candied cherries washed in boiling water and softened in a light 
syrup, then mingled with apricot marmalade and kirsch. Serve aaa a sauce- -boat of cherry 
syrup with a few spoonfuls of currant jelly added and flavored with kirsch. 


(3025), ORUSTS WITH FRUITS A LA MIRABEAU (Crotites aux Fruits & la Mirabeaw), 


This entremets, though simple, can be served at the most sumptuous dinners. Cut a well- -pared 
fresh pineapple across in two; divide the largest end into two parts, and these into medium-sized 
slices; pare again to have them all of the same size and shape, put them into a vessel and moisten 
to their height with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees; cover with a round piece of paper, and 
keep them in a cool place. After six hours drain off the syzup, and adding to it a handful of pow- 
dered sugar pour it back on the fruit and operate thus twice, but should preserved pineapple be 
used it will require to be done four times. Bake some savarin paste (No. 148) in a, large buttered 
savarin mold (Fig. 139), or a large cradle mold, and leave stand for twelve hours. Cut this 

_eake straight on top, then into transversal slices ot equal thickness, and cover. one side of 
them first with a thin layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), then with a lager: of Condé Prep- 





Fria. 575. 


aration (No. 2), range them at once on a baking sheet, bestrew with fine sugar, glaze in a 
‘slack oven, and detach from the baking sheet as soon.as glazed. Fasten a round flat of Genoese 
cake on a' ah and on it place a ring of the same or of meringue, having it much higher than the 
flat itself, but not too wide (this ring is intended to uphold the slices of pineapple); brush it over 
with apricot marmalade, also the lower Genoese flat, and let dry in the air. Select some good, 
large, preserved cherries (demi-sucre), wash them in warm water, and place them in a copper vessel 
with some cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees. Now drain the slices of pineapple, and dress them 
upright in the center of the ring, one overlapping the other, and bent out slightly so they form the 
shape of a basket. Then fill the hollow in the inside with the well-drained cherries, dressing therm 
in a pyramid; brush the pineapple over with some fine apricot marmalade, diluted with Madeira 
wine; surround the base with the slices of glazed savarin, forming them into a pretty crown, and 
mask the whole lightly with the marmalade. Serve with this entremets a sauce-boatful of the same 
marmalade diluted with syrup and Madeira wine mixed with a Julienne of candied fruits cut from 
orange or mandarin peel, pears and apricots, adding a spoonful of pistachios. To make this 
entremets more plentiful the crusts can be surrounded at their base with a row of candied | reams 

Sages, cut in two, and the stones replaced by almond ’paste oi 0. 125) fare with vanilla. 


(3026), ORUSTS WITH MADEIRA (Crottes au Madére), 


Wash in tepid water four ounces of candied. citron peel, two ounces of lemon peel and two 
ounces of orange peel, all cut in quarter-inch squares. Put these into a saucepan with two 
ounces of Smyrna raisins and two ounces of currants, well picked and scalded in boiling water, 
then drained, and cover over the whole with boiling Madeira syrup and keep the saucepan well 

closed in a bain-marie until ready to serve. Make a croustade from a close and stale kitchen loaf, 
having it four to six inches high, and shaped like a vase. Slit the top near the edge and pass a 
skewer through its depth to keep it straight while cooking, then fry to a fine light golden color, 
drain and sponge it, remove the skewer and the slit piece on top. Scoop out a little of the inside 
crumbs, then fasten it on the center of a dish with a paste made of flour and egg-white. Cutslices 
of kitchen bread five-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and from this stamp out ovals three by two 
inches; brown them on both sides in clarified’ butter, drain!and cover: with apricot marmalade 









SWEET ENTREMBETS. 883 


(No. 3675); dress them in a circle around the croustade or else substitute slices of cooked brioche, 
having them the same size; lay these flat on a baking sheet, besprinkle with sugar and brown in the 
oven. Moisten the crusts with the syrup and arrange the fruits all around. Fill the croustade 
with red stewed cherries (No. 3688) and angelica and serve with a separate apricot sauce, 
diluted with Madeira wine. (See Humboldt pudding No. 3100.) 


(3027), CRUSTS WITH PEACHES OR WITH PEARS (Orotites aux Péches ou aux Poires), 


Put into a sautoira dozen compoted peaches cut in halves, all of equal size; pour over some thick 
syrup and keep them warm. Cut from a kitchen loaf half-inch thick slices and from them take 
two-inch in diameter rounds, having as many as there are peaches. Color them in clarified butter, 
turning them over when done on one side to color on the other, then drain and cover lightly with 
apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Set ahalf peach on top of each and dress them on a dish; pour 
over some peach syrup mingled with a few spoonfuls of kirsch and serve more of this separately. 

For Pears.—Replace the peaches by compoted pears and finish exactly the same. 


(3028), ORUSTS WITH PEARS A LA DOUGLAS (Crotites aux Poires & la Douglas). 


Cut some half-inch thick slices from a kitchen loaf and form them into rounds with a plain 
cutter two and a half inches in diameter; remove the center of these rounds with another cutter 
an inch in diameter so as to make them into rings. Put two egg-yolks into a basin and dilute with 
a pint of good cream, adding two ounces of sugar flavored with half a grated orange peel and pass the 
whole through a colander over the bread rings. After they have well soaked, drain and dip them 
in pulverized macaroons, then in beaten eggs and lastly roll in white bread-crumbs; fry to a fine color 
in clarified butter; drain and mask the surface with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); throw over a 
pinch of powdered burnt almonds and dress in a circle on a dish; fill the center with fine pears 
cooked in syrup, some Malaga raisins-and candied orange peel cut in small shreds and combined 
with apple jelly (No. 3668) and maraschino. Serve separately a sauce-boat of kirsch syrup thick- 
ened with a few spoonfuls of dissolved apple jelly and the pulp of two oranges free of their white 
skin and seeds. 


(3029). CUPOLA A LA MADISON (Coupole @ la Madison). 


Butter a cupola-shaped mold and fill it three-quarters full with savarin paste (No. 148); let 
rise in a mild temperature, and as soon as it reaches the top of the mold push it into a slack oven 
to bake; when the cake is done unmold it ona grate, cool well, replace it in the mold and pare flush 
with the bottom; unmold again and cut an incision all around at three-quarters of its height, 
with a small kitchen knife, keeping its point toward the center; carefully lift off the lid 
and empty out the interior, leaving the sides half an inch thick; fill the empty cake with fine 
paper to prevent it from losing its shape; replace the lid and cover it with a very thin layer of 
apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and ice it with fondant (No. 58) flavored with kirsch. After this icing 
is well drained slip the cupola on a dish and decorate the center of the lid with a handsome rosette 
of angelica and candied orange peel, cui to represent crescents, arranging them alternately; place 
in the center a large cherry and surround the crescents with a wreath formed of angelica lozenges 
and candied cherries laid between. . Range around the base of the cupola a circle of fine brandied 
greengages. Prepare a compote of pears cut in four, drain and cut them up into thin slices, add- 
ing as many preserved cherries (demi-sucre). well washed in hot water, and mingle the whole with 
the same quantity of white apple marmalade, reduced and flavored with kirsch. Ten minutes 
before serving lift off the lid from the timbale, remove the paper and fill it up with the very hot 
preparation; replace the lid and keep the whole hot for a few minutes; serve with a sauce-boat of 
apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001). | 


(3030), DAMPFNOODLES WITH CREAM (Dampfnouilles & la Créme). 
Put half a pound of flour into a basin and make a hollow in the center; lay in it a quarter of 
slowly with two gills of warm milk, adding the flour 


an ounce of compressed yeast and dissolve it ry , 
‘ ith a cloth and leave it in a mild temperature to rise 


$0 as to obtain a soft paste; cover it over W 
to double its volume; then incorporate into this sponge four egg-yolks, four spoonfuls of sugar and 
half a pound of flour added very slowly, and lastly two ounces of butter; mix well for one minute 
in order to give the paste a good body, then lay it in a vessel and let rise to double its volume. 
Work it on a floured table and roll into strings; divide each of these into pieces and shape them 


884 THE EPICUREAN. 


- into balls an inch and a quarter in diameter; range these in a buttered sautoir, three-quarters of 
an inch apart, and leave them to rise again to double their volume. Now pour sufficient 
boiling vanilla-flavored milk over to have the balls swim to half their height; cover hermetically 
and put the sautoir in a hot oven for fifteen to eighteen minutes. Detach them from the pan, and 
dress in a pyramid on a dish; cover over with some English cream sauce (No. 3004) and serve 
more of the same separately. 


(3031), STUFFED EGGS (Gufs Farcis). 


Choose seven or eight large, fresh and very white eggs; saw off the top of the shell on the 
roundest end so as to make an opening three-quarters of an inch wide; empty the eggs into a bowl, 
wash the shells and leave to drain well. Beat the eggs up lightly, add to them a few spoonfuls of 
rich raw cream, four spoonfuls of powdered lady fingers, six or seven spoonfuls of powdered 
sugar, Some cinnamon and a grain of salt. Butter liberally the bottom of a flat saucepan, pour in 
the eggs and thicken while stirring over a slow fire, the same as for scrambled eggs. When the prep- 
aration is done to perfection, mix in two or three spoonfuls of lady fingers cut up in small dice, 
and with this fill the shells one by one; lay each one when done into a separate egg cup; cover 
the opening with a small pyramid of the same cake cut small, and dress the egg cups on a dish. 


(3032). EGGS WITH CREAM, MERINGUED (Gufs a la Oréme Meringués), 


Have seven or eight eggs in a bowl, beat them well, then run them through a sieve: add six 
ounces of sugar partly flavored with vanilla and eight pulverized macaroons; dilute the whole with 
a pint of raw cream, and stir the preparation on the fire for a few moments to warm it, then pour 
it at once into a soufflé saucepan (Fig. 182), or simply a buttered pie plate (Fig. 183); let it poach 
in a bain-marie in a slack oven, and as soon as it becomes firm take it from the water and leave 
stand till cold; then cover the entire surface with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Cover over 
with a layer of Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with kirsch, smooth nicely and dredge the 
top with pulverized macaroons; let stand for a few moments in a slack oven and glaze it with 
sugar. 


(3033), EGGS WITH COFFEE CREAM MERINGUED (Gufs & la Créme au Café Meringués), 


Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, beat and strain through a sieve; add a grain of salt, 
two spoonfuls of sugar, twelve pulverized lady fingers, four gills of raw cream and one gill of 
very strong coffee. Stir the preparation for two minutes on the fire, then pour it into a 
buttered tart dish; let it set in a bain-marie or slack oven and remove as soon as firm. When 
nearly cold cover over with a layer of Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with cognac, smooth 
nicely and besprinkle with pulverized lady fingers; poach for a few moments in a slack oven, glazing 
over with sugar. 


(3034), FLAWN A LA MANHATTAN (Flan & la Manhattan), 


Line a flawn ring (No. 3170) with sweet paste (No. 136), leaving the edges rather thick, and let 
it rest for half an hour in the ice-box. Then cover the paste with buttered paper and fill it up with 
dry rice; cookit in a hot oven and as soon as done empty it out and cover the outside border and 
the inside surfaces with hot and well-reduced peach marmalade (No. 3675); slide the pie on a dish; 
dress against the edges a circle of halved peaches; arrange in a pyramid in the center of this 
crown some quartered apples cooked in butter and cover the whole with strained peach marma- 
lade; sprinkle over the entire surface some finely chopped pistachios and decorate between the 
peaches on the border, also on the.summit of the pie, with lozenges of angelica and candied 


therries. Set it for one instant in the oven to warm, then serve with a bowlful of cream vanilla. 
sauce (No. 3004). 


(3035), FLAWN AU LION DOR (Flan au Lion dor), 


Divide some apples in eight pieces each; peel, core and cook them in butter, and when half 
done mingle in some apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and finish cooking. Line a flawn ring (No. 
3170) with fine short paste (No. 135), raise the edges, pinch them and let the flawn stand for 
twenty-five minutes in the ice-box or any other cool place. Then cover the bottom and sides 
of the paste with buttered paper, fill up with dry rice, and cook in the oven. As soon as the crust 
is done, empty it out and remove the plate, then brush the surface with egg-yolks and return the 
crust to the oven to color. When cold mask the inside with apricot marmalade, fill in alternate 





2 
q 
Q 
i 


ie 


SWEET ENTREMHETS. | 885 


layers of white and well-reduced apple marmalade, flavored with vanilla and apples cooked in 
butter, finishing with a layer of the apples; dredge powdered macaroons over the top and then 
cover with apricot marmalade and on this pour a Condé preparation (No. 2); bestrew with sugar, 
and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then serve. Have a separate vanilla syrup mingled with 
apricot marmalade. 


(3036), ALLIANCE FRITTERS (Beignets Alliance), 


Cut six medium-sized apples in transversal slices three-eighths of an inch thick; remove the 
cores with a column tube, cut away the edges with a two-inch in diameter vegetable cutter so as 
to have all the rounds of the same size; fry them in. butter over a brisk fire, drain and wipe. 
Drain as many halves of stewed peaches as there are slices of apples, fill the hollow in the apples 
with apple jelly (No. 3668). Prepare a fine paste with the same quantity of dry macaroons as 
apple paste, and pound well together with a few spoonfuls of maraschino, and with this paste fill 
the center of the halved peaches, and fasten these on to the rounds of apple; cover the other side 
of the apple with the macaroon paste to have the whole form a ball; roll them in cracker dust, 
and then dip in frying batter (No. 137) and plunge into hot frying fat. When the paste has become 
dry and well browned, drain the fritters on to a cloth, besprinkle with sugar, and lay them on a 
tart dish to place in the oven in order that they may glaze. Serve separately a pineapple syrup: 
Put half a pint of apple pulp that has been passed through a fine sieve into a saucepan, and 
dilute it with three gills of syrup, boil up for one minute, and then thicken this sauce with a 
spoonful of fecula diluted in a little cold water; remove it at once from the fire, flavor well with 
kirsch, and add half a pint of pineapple cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; keep the sauce 
hot until needed. 


(3037), APPLE FRITTERS AND MONTAGNARD FRITTERS—GLAZED AND UNGLAZED 
si (Beignets de Pommes et Beignets Montagnard—Glacés et non Glacés), 

Core some apples with a column or tin tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter; peel them all 
around, and cut from them slices about a quarter of an inch thick; put to macerate in a little 
brandy and powdered sugar for one hour, tossing them about often so that they all get well covered. 
Dip each piece in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge into hot frying fat; when done and of a 
fine color, drain and dredge over with sugar, then dress on a napkin. 

For Glazed Fritters.—When done place them on a baking sheet, bestrew with sugar, and glaze 
in a hot oven, or under a salamander (Fig. 123); serve dressed on a napkin. 

For Montagnard Fritters.—After they have been cooked and glazed as above, cover the tops 
with a layer of currant jelly placed on with a spoon, then dress on a napkin and serve. 


(3038), APPLE FRITTERS WITH PRUNELLE OR WITH KIRSCH (Beignets de Pommes a la 
Prunelle ou au Kirsch), 


Peel some fine apples; cut them across in three pieces, remove the cores with a five-eighths of 
an inch diameter tin tube, and cook them partly in a syrup, then drain ona sieve. Make an apple 
jelly (No. 3668), and when done add to it as much peach marmalade (No. 3675); range the apples 
on a baking sheet and mask them several times with the jelly, having sufficient of it to leave on 
a thick layer. When cold remove the slices of apple with a knife and roll them in powdered 


macaroons, then dip in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge them into hot frying fat. As the 


paste becomes crisp, drain them off, wipe and brush over with a brush dipped in a sugar frosting 
flavored with prunelles or kirsch. 


(3039), APRICOT OR PEACH FRITTERS WITH MARASCHINO (Beignets d’Abricots ou de Péches 
au Marasquin), | 

Split a dozen fine apricots or peaches in four; remove the stones and skin, then boil up in a 
light syrup, but keeping them firm; drain ona cloth, wipe and fill the hollow space left by the 
aroon paste pounded with a little maraschino; cover over with a light layer 
of peach marmalade (No. 3675), roll them at once in pulverized macaroons and dip them in frying 
batter (No. 137), then plunge in hot frying fat and fry the fritters to a fine color; drain, wipe 
and dredge over with vaniila sugar and dress in a pyramid ona folded napkin. Serve separately 
a sauce made of purée of apricots if the fritters be of apricots, flavored with maraschino, or of 


peaches if the fritters are of peaches. 


stone with a ball of mac 


886 THE EPICUREAN. 


Another way is to peel the apricots or peaches, cut them in four, then place the pieces in @ 
vessel with sugar, maraschino and a little vanilla syrup; one hour later drain and roll them in 
powdered macaroons passed through a coarse sieve. Dip the pieces in frying batter (No. 137) and. 
immerse in hot fat, then fry to a fine color. After the paste is well fried, drain, wipe and be- 
sprinkle with vanilla sugar, then dress ona napkin and serve with the same sauce as for the above. 


‘2040), BRIOCHE AND CREAM FRITTERS WITH SABAYON (Beignets de Brioche & la Créme 
au Sabayon), 


Butter a tin mold forming a box four inches wide by three inches deep and eight inches long, 
with a hinged cover; fill it half full with brioche paste (No. 130); let it rise in a mild temperature: 
until the box is full, close the cover and fasten the catch, then bake it in a moderate oven. As. 
soon as done, unmold and lay it on a wicker stand and keep it in a cool place to use only twelve: 
hours later. Now pare and cut it up into three-eighths of an. inch thick slices; cut these straight. 
through the center so as to obtain oblong pieces three inches long by one and a half inches. wide. 
Dilute six egg-yolks with one quart of double cream and two ounces of vanilla-flavored sugar; run 
the whole through a sieve and dip into it the pieces of brioche so that they soak in well; drain them 
off and plunge into hot frying fat, then drain again and wipe; besprinkle with powdered vanilla. 
sugar and dress ina pyramid. Serve a sabayon with Madeira wine separately. (See cabinet pud- 


ding with sabayon, No. 3096.) 


(3041), CELERIAC, PEAR AND QUARTERED APPLE FRITTERS (Beignets de Céleris-Raves de: 
Poires et de Quartiers de Pommes), 


Celeriac.—Cut some celery roots in four, pare neatly and blanch them in plenty of water, 
then drain and finish cooking in a twenty-two degree syrup with a gill of Madeira wine added; 
when done, drain, wipe dry and leave to get cold, then dip them in frying batter (No. 137), and 
plunge into hot fat. As soon as of a fine color and the paste is crisp, drain and wipe them off, 
bestrew over with sugar and serve. 


Pear Fritters are prepared the same, either with small pears or quartered larger ones, 
blanched and cooked in syrup and kirsch. Should the pears be very ripe they may be used raw 
and finished exactly the same as celery fritters. 


Quartered Apples.—Peel and core the apples, cook them firmly in a light syrup with mara- 
schino, drain and fry the same as for the above; glaze with sugar, pour over some rum and serve. 


(3042), CHERRY FRITTERS—FRESH OR BRANDIED (Beignets de Cerises Fraiches ou @ 
!'Eau-de-vie), 

Select some large and fine fresh cherries, remove the pits and lay the fruit in a. bowl to 
sprinkle over with sugar, pour on a few spoonfuls of kirsch and let macerate for one hour. Then 
drain and thread eight of them on a silver skewer or a straw; roll these in lady finger dust and dip. 
in frying batter (No. 137); plunge them into hot frying fat and when the paste is fried and well 
colored drain off the fritters on a cloth, sponge them and dredge over with vanilla sugar, then: 
dress them in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Serve at the same time a cherry sauce made with. 
cherry purée and flavored with kirsch. es 

For Brandied Cherry Fritters.—Prepare as above, using brandied cherries; besprinkle with. 
sugar when the pits have been removed and finish as above. For the sauce, crush four ounces of 
sour cherries, put this into a copper pan with a pint of red Bordeaux wine, four ounces of sugar, 
a small piece of cinnamon and the peel of one lemon; leave to cook for a few minutes, then strain: 
the liquid through a sieve and return it te the pan; thicken with a little fecula diluted in a smalk 
quantity of cold water and strain this sauce ouce more through the sieve; now add to it a heavy 
handful of candied cherries washed in hot water and serve. 


(3043), CREAM OF RICE FRITTERS (Beignets de Oréme de Riz), 


Dissolve ten ounces of rice flour in a bowl with one quart of cold milk; pass this through a 
sieve into a saucepan, and add to it a grain of salt, three ounces of butter, two spoonfuls of sugar 
and the fourth part of a vanilla bean; stir over a slow fire until it comes to a boil, then continue to. 
cook the preparation for twenty minutes on the side of the range, adding to it a little raw cream. 
Take out the vanilla, and pour into another saucepan, then reduce it for a few moments. When 

“consistent take it from the fire and mix in with it three ounces of pulverized macaroons, a piece of 





SWEET ENTREMBETS. 887. 


fresh butter, and five or six well-beaten whole eggs. When the preparation has been thoroughly 
mingled prepare some wafer sheets, three and a half inches by two anda half; soften them betweer:. 
two damp napkins, and lay on the preparation run through a pocket into sticks three-quarters of ar 
inch in diameter, having them the whole length of the leaves; roll them into cylindricals and faste:. 
the edges firmly, or else it may be poured directly on a baking sheet without wafers, dampenad. 
with cold water, to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and then set aside to cool for a few 
hours. Divide the preparation into pieces, three-quarters of an inch wide by three and a halt 
inches long, or an inch and a half cubes, or else in rounds measuring one and five-eighths inches. 
in diameter by three-quarters thick; roll the fritters in pulverized macaroons, then in beaten 
eggs and lastly in bread-crumbs; plunge them into hot frying fat, a few at a time, and when they’ 
have attained a fine color drain and wipe, bestrew with powdered vanilla-flavored sugar and 
dress on a folded napkin. 


(3044), MUNDANE FRITTERS (Beignets Mondains), 


Prepare a cream cake paste, the same as for soufflé fritters 4 la Médicis (No. 3047). Cut some 
bands of paper three inches long by two inches wide, and butter them over. Pour the paste into 
a pocket furnished . with a channeled socket and push through on to each paper band a string: 
of paste to form a large 8, both ends being rolled. Heat some fat made with beef kidney suet and 
lard in a large frying pan, and when this is hot plunge in sufficient of the fritters to cover the sur- 
face; lift off the papers as quickly as they detach from the paste and fry the fritters slowly while: 
turning them over; when fried and of a fine color drain them on asieve. After they become: 
partly cold dip them one by one in a clear rum icing made with fine sugar and the liquor. Drain: 
and place them at once on a pastry grate laid on top of a tin plate so that the icing drains off 
properly; when the fritters are dry dress and serve. ) 


(3045), ORANGE FRITTERS A LA TALLEYRAND (Beignets d’Oranges @ la Talleyrand). 


For one-third.—Cut two oranges into six pieces, leaving on the rind, then peel them close:y7 
and remove the seeds; besprinkle with fine sugar and drain on a cloth; dip each separate piece im: 
frying batter (No. 137), and plunge into hot fat, and when of a fine color and very crisp drain theses 
six pieces on a baking sheet and glaze the surfaces under a salamander (Fig. 123). 

For one-third.—Peel a medium-sized orange, divide it as for orange glacées with caramel and! 
immerse them in frying batter (No. 137), plunge into very hot fat, and when they have attained a. 
fine color drain and besprinkle with vanilla sugar. 

For one-third.—Peel three oranges to the pulp and pass a knife between the sections; take off 
all the skin and suppressing the seeds macerate in a little prunelle and sugar; wrap two pieces: 
of orange in a rissole made of very thin brioche paste (No. 130), having it two and a quarter inches. 
in diameter; fold the paste over and fasten the edges together, then put to rise in a mild temper- 
ature; fry to a fine color, drain well, dry and glaze with a light flavored icing (No. 102). Dress. 
these three kinds of fritters on a napkin, all on the same dish, but in separate groups. 


~ (8046), SINGAPORE FRITTERS (Beignets Singapore). 


Dry two dozen macaroons; break them up and mash them with some rum in order to make a: 
consistent paste. Peel neatly a medium-sized ripe pineapple; remove the core with a column tube 
five-eighths of an inch in diameter and split it lengthwise in two; cut from each half, even slices, 
having them one-eighth of an inch thick; put these slices in a vessel, bestrew with sugar, and pour 
over some brandy, then let macerate for two hours. Drain, wipe, and cover one side with the 
macaroon and rum paste; lay another slice on top and fasten the two together so as to enclose ths 
macaroons, then roll them in powdered cracker, and dip them in frying batter (No. 137); plunge 
into hot frying fat, and when the paste becomes crisp and of a fine color drain off the fritters, wipe 
and dredge with sugar; set them on a baking sheet, push them into a hot oven to glaze, and dress in 
a pyramid on a folded napkin. Serve separately a sauce made with apricot marmalade (No. 3675)» 
diluted with the pineapple infusion and a little rum, adding some square pieces of pineapple. 


(3047), SOUFFLED FRITTERS A LA MEDIOIS (Beignets Soufflés & la Médicis), 

Put a pint of water into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, and # 
grain of salt; set the saucepan on the fire and at the first boil remove it on one side and mix in quickly 
half a pound of sifted flour: thicken the paste over the fire, dry for a few moments, working it 
continually, and then take it off to have it lose its greatest heat, but continuing to stir it steadily-- 


888 THE EPICUREAN. 


‘Then add to it one tablespoonful of orange flower water and seven to eight eggs, breaking them in 
one by one. Take up a heaping teaspoonful of this paste, and push it with the finger in such 
a manner as to give ita round shape, then let it fali into hot frying fat; stir all the time until 
the fritters assume a fine golden color, then drain on to acloth and besprinkle with vanilla-flavored 
sugar; glaze them in a brisk oven, and dress on a napkin. Serve separately a sauce-boatful of 
chocolate cream prepared as follows: Place in a saucepan three egg-yolks, two ounces of sugar, and 
half an ounce of fecula; beat well and dilute the preparation with half a pint of boiling milk into 
‘which has been added the fourth part of a vanilla bean; stir the whole on the fire, and as soon as 
it thickens pour it over an ounce of dissolved cocoa; mingle all well together, pass through a 
tammy and let get cold, afterward adding to it twice as much whipped cream; serve at the same 
time as the fritters. 


(3048). SOUFFLED FRITTERS WITH LEMON PEEL OR WITH ROASTED HAZEL-NUTS 
(Beignets Soufflés aux Zestes de Citron ou aux Noisettes Grillées), 


With Lemon Peel.—Put into a small saucepan two gills of water, one ounce of butter, a 
pinch of sugar and a grain of salt. Stand the saucepan on the fire and remove it at the first boil, 
then incorporate four ounces of fine sifted flour, proceeding the same as for cream cake paste (No. 
132). When the paste has become smooth beat it for a few moments on the fire to dry, then take 
it off and let cool partly. Then incorporate three whole eggs and two yolks, putting them in singly, 
also a little finely chopped lemon peel. The paste must be rather too hard than too soft. Havea 
deep pan; heat in it moderately some fine frying fat, half clarified butter and half lard; take it from 
the range to the side of the fire. Take up the paste in small quantities with a teaspoon and let it falj 
on a floured tabie; roll into balls and arrange each one as soon as done on asmall smooth saucepan 
cover, then slip them into the hot fat, a few ata time. After the fritters are all in the fat bring 
the saucepan back to the hot fire so as to gradually increase the heat, being careful to toss the 
fritters continuously. When they are all of a fine color drain and roll each one in vanilla sugar 
and dress on a napkin. 

With Roasted Hazel-nuts.-—A pint of milk, quarter of a pound of butter, five eggs and four 
ounces of roasted hazel-nuts, pounded in-a mortar with a little kirsch. Finish the same as the 
above. 


(3049), STRAWBERRY FRITTERS WITH MACAROONS, GARNISHED WITH GLAZED STRAW- 
BERRY FRITTERS (Beignets de Fraises aux Macarons, Garnis de Beignets de Fraises Glacés), 


Procure some large strawberries; cover them entirely with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and 
roll them in pulverized macaroons, then dip them one by one into a light frying batter (No. 137), 
and plunge them immediately into very hot frying fat. When the paste has fried, and is of a fine 
color, drain them off, and roll in vanilla-flavored sugar; dress on a folded napkin surrounded by the 
strawberry fritters. | 

Strawberry Fritters.—These are large strawberries dipped in frying batter, and plunged into 
very hot frying fat, drained, wiped, and bestrewn with sugar, then ne in the oven; dress them 
around the above strawberry fritters. 


(3050). ROMAN TRIUMVIRATE FRITTERS (Beignets Triumvirat Romain), 
This hot dessert is composed of bakes sorts of fritters: Stuffed greengages, stuffed pears and 
stuffed pineapple. 
The Stuffed Greengages are made by splitting some very ripe and sound gages through the 
middle; separate the two parts and remove the stone; apply on the cut side a macaroon 
paste made by pounding macaroons to a paste with apple jelly (No. 3668) and kirsch. Give them 


the original shape, roll them in powdered macaroons and dip in frying batter (No. 137); plunge 


them into hot frying fat and when the paste is fried and of a fine color, drain and wipe; beeps 
with sugar and glaze either under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a hot oven. 

The Stuffed Pears are made by peeling some medium pears, leaving on the stalks and emptying 
them from the other end with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), removing all the seeds. Cook them in a 
light syrup, drain and wipe and fill the empty space with candied apricots cut in three-sixteenths 
inch squares and mingled with apricot: marmalade (No. 3675); cork up the opening with a round 
plece of pear or angelica, and dip them ina frying batter (No. 137), and then in plenty of hot fat.te 
fry to a good golden Brawl, drain, wipe and bestrew with vanilla sugar. iow 






SWEET ENTREMETS. 889 


For Stuffed Pineapples.—Peel a pineapple neatly, and divide it into one-eighth of an inch 
slices, and each of these in four; lay them in a vessel, pour over some good brandy, and dredge 
with powdered sugar, leaving them to macerate for half an hour; drain, wipe, put together two by 
two with a layer of hazelnut paste with cooked sugar (No. 125); press down and dip in frying batter 
(No. 137), then in white frying fat. When the fritters are of a fine color, drain, wipe and lay them 
on a baking sheet, bestrew with sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123). Dress in three dis- 
tinct groups on a folded napkin and serve separately a sauce made of pineapple and prunelle as 
follows: Mix equal parts of grated pineapple and apricot marmalade (No. 3675); put it ina saucepan 
on the fire and leave boil up once or twice: then dilute with as much syrup, and flavor nicely with 
prunelle liquor. | 


(3051), FRUITS A LA CREOLE (Fruits & la Créole), 


Cut lengthwise in two one large, well-pared pineapple, either fresh or preserved. Divide each 
half into slices of even length and thickness, not having them too thin, and lay them in a flat dish 
to cover with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees; let macerate for two or three hours. Beside 
these split in halves five or six fine peaches, not too ripe, suppress the stones, then lay a few at a 
time on a large skimmer and plunge into boiling water; remove to. the side of the fire and leave 
them until the skins detach, then throw them at once into cold water. As soon as the skins are 
peeled off drain and macerate them for one hour in a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees and 
covered with a round piece of white paper. In case no fresh peaches can be procured use canned 
ones ecutin two; after removing them from the can they should be wiped on a cloth and then ranged 





Fie. 576, 
in a china vessel and covered with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees, afterward with a round 
piece of white paper. Cook in milk three-quarters of a pound of blanched Carolina rice, keeping 
it consistent but tender; sweeten it wellat the last moment, finishing with a little cream, fresh but- 
ter and a few egg-yolks. With this rice fill a buttered pyramidical tin mold shaped like a funnel; 
press down the rice and lay the mold in a narrow but deep bain-marie saucepan, and keep it hot for 
ten to twelve minutes. Just when prepared to serve drain the pineapples and peaches; unmold the 
rice on a cooked paste (No. 131) foundation, a little wider than the circumference of the mold, hav- 
ing it attached to the center of a dish; dress the slices of pineapple erect against the pyramid, lightly 
overlapping them, and dress the half peaches around the pineapple. Arange in a crown-shape on top 
of the pyramid a few angelica leaves cut into points and fill the center with a cluster of fine large 
red candied cherries. Brush the fruits over with a thick vanilla syrup and serve with a sauce-boat 
of apricot and maraschino sauce (No. 3001). 


(3052), GRENADES WITH CHERRIES (Grenades aux Cerises). 


Divide a pound and a quarter of brioche paste (No. 130) into twelve even parts; roll each one 
into a separate ball and lay these in bottomless oval molds, three inches long, one and three-quarters 
inches wide and one and three-quarters inches high; let rise until they are almost full, then cook 
in a hot oven; as soon as done unmold the cakes on a grate and let cool off ; then pare them with a 
knife to give them the appearance of an egg. Put ten egg-yolks and eight ounces of sugar in ‘ 
bowl and dilute with a quart of cream flavored with vanilla, then strain through a tammy. Soak 
the brioches in this cream, drain and roll them in pulverized macaroons, dip them in beaten eggs, 
roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into hot frying fat to fry to a tine color; drain, wipe and ata en 
up in a cirele; fill the interior space with a compote of cherries with pKnHeH? and serve sepa ately 
some of the syrup from the compote. 


$90 ) THE EPICUREAN. 


(3053), MAZARINE WITH PINEAPPLE AND KIRSCH (Mazarine & |’Ananas et au Kirsch), 


Butter a timbale mold and fill it three-quarters full with savarin paste (No. 148); let rise in @ 
mild temperature, and when this has reached nearly to the height of the top edges lay it on a 
tart plate and push into a brisk oven in order to bake the cake nicely. Unmold as soon as it is 
done and leave stand till cold. Now pare the cake evenly and cut it into transversal slices three- 
eighths of an inch thick; cover each of these with a layer of pineapple marmalade flavored with kirsch, 
and spread over some very finely chopped pistachios; reconstruct the cake as originally and mask 
the outside with hot apricot marmalade (No. 38675); bestrew with a mixture of chopped pistachios 
and dried almonds, then slide it on a dish to keep warm. Wash at the same time in hot water four 
ounces of citron, two ounces of angelica, and four ounces of orange peel, all cut into thin inch-long 
fillets; put these in a saucepan with a quart of twenty-eight degree syrup, place it on the fire and 
let boil up once or twice, then withdraw the saucepan to one side, and incorporate a quarter of 
a pound of very fresh butter divided in small pats, stirring constantly so as to mingle the butter 


well with the sauce; flavor with a gill of kirsch, and serve tiiis 3 in a sauce- -boat to accompany the 


mazarine. 


(3054), MIRLITONS OF PEARS A LA BIENVENUE (Mirlitons. de Poires & la Bienvenue), 


Butter and linea dozen deep tartlet molds with fragments of puff paste (No. 146); range them on 
a baking sheet and keep ina cool place. Put into a basin four ounces of powdered sugar, four 
ounces of sifted flour and two tablespoonfuls of orange flower water; dilute with a pint and a half 
of cream and strain the whole through a fine sieve. Place a piece of butter the size of a half-inch 
ball in the bottom of each mold, and set the baking sheet at the mouth of the oven door, then fill 
the molds with the above preparation; dredge sugar over and push the sheet gently into a warm 
spot. In the meantime peel a dozen fine small Sickle pears; empty out the insides with a vegetable 
spoon (Fig. 91) and cook them in a light syrup; drain well and fill the insides with well-washed 
candied apricot cut in small squares. Lay one pear in each tartlet and cover with an apricot and 
kirsch sauce. Bestrew shredded pistachios over and dress in a circle on a round dish, filling 
up the center with compoted cherries; serve an apricot sauce with kirsch and brandy (No. 3001) 
apart. 


(8055) MUNICH WITH PEACHES (Munich aux Péches), 


Butter twelve timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); fill them half full with savarin paste (No. 148), 
and let rise in amild temperature, then bake in amoderate oven. As soon as done cut them off even 
with the edges, unmold and dip them at once in alemon syrup flavored with Curacao, maraschino and 
kirsch. Drain on a grate, glaze with a light orange icing (No. 102), and decorate the top of each 
cake with a rosette of halved pistachios, having a halved candied cherry in the center. Range them 
in a circle on a dish, and fill up the inside with compoted peaches; serve a marmalade of peaches 
(No. 3675) passed siroteh a sieve and flavored with noyau in a separate sauce-boat; see Clev eland 
peach pudding (No. 3102). 


(3056), SMALL CELESTINE OMELETS (Petites Omelettes Oélestine), 


Make a dozen small omelets, and when done slip them on a baking sheet and cover four of 
them with cream frangipane (No. 44) and chopped or finely cut-up candied fruits, four with apple 
marmalade (No. 3675) and almonds, and four with strawberry marmalade. Fold over flat or else roll 
them and cut off the ends; divide each one in two and arrange them in a pyramid form on a hot 
dish; pour over some apricot sauce with rum, and dredge over the surface. pistachios and sweet 
almonds cut in dice and two spoonfuls of dry currants; serve at once. 


(8057), OELESTINE OMELET WITH WHIPPED CREAM (Omelette Célestine & la Ordéme 
Fouettée), 


Break three eggs in a bowl and add to them a pinch of salt and a coffeespoonful of sugar; beat 
the whole well and run it through a sieve. Butter the bottom of a medium-sized frying pan with 
clarified butter, heat and pour it in the preparation, spreading it over the entire surface so as to 
obtain a mellow omelet. Put in a vessel two spoonfuls of currant jelly and dilute it with double 
its quantity of sweetened whipped cream, then incorporate into this two crushed macaroons; lay 
this cream in the center of the omelet, raise the edges to inclose it well, and invert it on a dish. 
Powder over with powdered sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron. Dress on each side a spoonful 
of whipped cream mixed with currant jelly and crushed macaroons. 





SWHET ENTREMETS. 892 


(3058), PFRANGIPANE OMELET (Omelette & la Prangipane), 


Prepare a frangipane cream with vanilla and almonds (No. 44). Beat up ten eggs in a vessel 
with a grain of salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the same of melted butter; dilute the whole. 
with a gill of cream. Make with this a dozen small omelets in a pancake pan buttered with clari- 
fied butter; after taking them from the pan, slip them ona baking tin and cover over one side. 
with a layer of the prepared frangipane; fold them up flat and cut off the ends, bestrew with pow- 
dered sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then dress in a pyramid. 


(3059), RUM OMELET (Omelette au Rhum), 


Beat up seven or eight eggs in a bowl and add to them a grain of salt, two spoonfuls of 
powdered sugar and a spoonful of good rum. Warm a little butter in a pan and pour in the beaten 
eggs, thickening them over a brisk fire stirring with a large fork. Fold over the omelet as 
fast as it detaches from the pan, and invert it with one stroke on a long dish; strew its entire sur- 
face with powdered sugar and glaze it with an omelet iron heated in the fire, decorating the top 
any desired fashion. Serve the omelet after pouring a few spoonfuls of rum with a little syrup into. 
the bottom of the dish and setting it on fire. 


(3060). OMELET SOUFFLE, ANCIENT STYLE (Omelette Soufflée & l’Ancienne), 


Melt half a pound of good butter and have it clarified. Put into a glazed vessel fourteen egg- 
yolks and ten ounces of ‘vanilla sugar; beat the preparation the same as for lady fingers, or until 
it becomes frothy and light, then add to it a grain of salt, seven or eight pulverized macaroons, 
and lastly sixteen stiffly beaten egg-whites. Pour the melted butter into two clean omelet pans, 
heat and putting half the preparation into each, toss slowly to warm them both at once, having them 


absorb all the butter, and keep them well rounded; transfer them immediately into two deep, 


buttered dishes, and push into a slack but well-regulated oven; remove two minutes later and split 
them down through their entire depth, then return them to the oven. Twelve to fifteen minutes: 
suffice to cook the omelets. When done and light, besprinkle liberally with powdered vanilla, 
sugar (No. 3165), and two minutes later remove from the oven and serve immediately. 


(3061), OMELET SOUFFLE—LIGHT (Omelette Soutfflée Légére), 


Put three spoonfuls of powdered sugar, four ounces of flour, a grain of salt and some lemon: 
peel into a vessel, and dilute it first with ten egg-yolks, then with half a gill of raw cream, in order 
to obtain a paste the same consistency as a frying paste; incorporate into it six well-beaten whites. 
and three-quarters of a pound of whipped cream. Have some melted butter in a large pan; when 
hot pour in the preparation and cook it the same as for an omelet soufflé with preserves (No. 3065); 
when done to perfection slip it on a sheet of paper and strew over with sugar; roll it on itself, 
and dress on a dish; dredge more sugar over, and glaze in the oven or under a salamander (Fig. 


123). | 


(3062), OMELET SOUFFLE WITH ALMONDS (Omelette Soufflée aux Amandes), 


For six persons. Beat up six egg-yolks, twelve shelled, skinned and crushed bitter almonds, 
and six teaspoonfuls of sugar in a bowl the same as for lady fingers; add the grated peel of a lemon 
and a grain of salt; as the preparation becomes light stir in delicately the beaten egg-whites, using: 
a spoon, and cutting it with this. The mixture should now stand alone without any danger of sink- 
ing, then pour it into a long buttered plated dish, smooth the surface, shaping it like a large folded 
omelet, and push the dish into a well-heated but not too hot oven. As soon as the omelet begins to. 
brown remove and split it lengthways through the center with a knife, being careful not to press. 
too hard, then replace it in the oven and be careful to turn the dish around from time to time. 
Let cook for twenty-five minutes; cover with sugar before it is finished so that it can glaze, and when 


removed dredge over more sugar before serving. 


852 os THE BPICUREAN. 


(3063). OMELET SOUFFLE WITH APPLES (Omelette Soufflée aux Pommes), 


Prepare an omelet soufflé preparation exactly the same as for a light omelet soufflé (No. 3061). 
Cut four or five good apples in quarters, peel, core and mince, then put them intoa pan with warm 
butter, and toss on a moderate fire; besprinkle with sugar, and cook without letting them melt; 
then remove the pan from the fire to thicken the contents with two or three spoonfuls of apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675). Have four spoonfuls of clarified butter in a large frying-pan; when hot pour 
in the omelet preparation, heat it for two minutes, then push the pan into a slackoven to cook the 
omelet; when firm slip it on a large sheet of paper, then turn it over again into the pan after having 
buttered it once more. When done slip it on the paper again and fill it with the apples. Roll it 
on itself, dress on a dish, bestrew the surface with sugar, then glaze. 





(3064), OMELET SOUFFLE WITH MACAROONS (Omelette Soufflée aux Macarons), 


Stir in a bowl six egg-yolks with a grain of salt and seven ounces of powdered sugar. The whole 
should get quite frothy. Pound six macaroons, and shake them through a sieve; beat up six egg- 
whites and mix them gradually with the former preparation, also stir in the macaroon powder at 
the same time. Melt three ounces of butter in a pan, and when hot pour in the omelet and toss 
it very slowly over the fire to heat through, then double it over, and invert it on a long buttered 
plated dish, and finish cooking the omelet in a slack oven. A few seconds before taking it out 
besprinkle bountifully with powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165) to glaze. In order to have an omelet 
souffié perfect, the guest should be kept waiting. 


(3065), OMELET SOUFFLE WITH PRESERVES (Omelette Soufflée aux Confitures), 


Place in a bowl five ounces of flour with four ounces of powdered sugar; dilute with two gills 
of milk, strain the liquid through a sieve into a saucepan and add to it a bit of lemon peel, a 
grain of salt and three ounces of melted butter; stir the preparation over a slow fire to thicken and ~ 
boil for two minutes without leaving it, and when it is taken from the fire remove the lemon peel 
and five minutes after work in six or seven egg-yolks, one at a time, without ceasing to beat; 
when cold stir in the beaten whites. Put into a large frying pan four or five spoonfuls of 
clarified butter; when kot pour in the preparation, spreading it over the entire surface, and two 
minutes after push it into a slack oven on a trivet; as soon as the top is firm turn the omelet over 
on the lid of a large saucepan covered with a sheet of paper, slide it back at once to the rebuttered 
pan and set it once more in the oven to finish cooking. It ought to be quite mellow. As soon as 
done, slip it on a sheet of paper again and fill the center with a row of preserves; fold it on itself, 
then invert it on a long dish with the assistance of the sheet of paper; shape it prettily, tightening 
the two ends, and besprinkle over with fine sugar; glaze under a salamander (Fig. 128). 


(3066), OMELET SOUFFLE WITH VANILLA (Omelette Souffiée & la Vanille), 


Place six egg-yolks in a bowl with three ounces of powdered sugar and an ounce of vanilla 
sugar (No. 3165); beat well with a whip until it becomes as light as for biscuits; also beat up twelve 
whites to a stiff froth and mix them in slowly with the others, then dress a part of this preparation 
in a pyramid form on a lightly buttered dish, leaving a hollow in the center; pour the remainder 
into a pocket furnished with a socket and decorate the surface of the omelet prettily; sugar it over 
and bake in a hot oven for eight or ten minutes, serving it as soon as it is done, or it may be 
dressed on a long dish and split lengthways through the center with the blade of a knife so as to 
make two pieces of it, then cook as above. 


(3067), OMELET STUFFED WITH PRESERVES—GLAZED (Omelette Fourrée aux Confitures et 
Glacée), 


Prepare a sweet omelet with seven or eight eggs; as soon as it becomes firm roll it over on 
itself in the pan to detach it, then bring it forward and fill it with currant jelly or apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675); shape it nicely, rolling it on itself lengthwise, and invert it quickly ona 
small long dish. Give it a pretty appearance, turning the ends under, and credean over with pow- 
dered sugar; glaze the surface with an iron heated in the fire. ’ 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 893 


(3068). OMELET STUFFED WITH STRAWBERRIES (Omelette Fourrée aux Fraises), 

Pick about forty large, ripe and very fresh strawberries; select twenty of the finest ones and 
ent them in four, then place them in a bowl with sugar, a piece of orange peel and two spoonfuls 
_ 0: rum; keep them in a cool place. Press the remainder of the strawberries through a fine sieve 
and put the pulp into a bowl to sweeten and also lay on ice. Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, 





Fie. 577. 


mix in two soup spoonfuls of sugar, two soup spoonfuls of good cream, a few small bits of butter 
and a grain of salt; beat up well. Heat some fresh butter in a pan, pour in the beaten eggs and stir 
with a fork until they thicken; when the omelet detaches from the pan bring it forward and fill 
it with the cut-up strawberries without any of the liquid and turn it over with one stroke on a long 
dish. Give ita pretty shape, besprinkle with powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165), glaze with a red 
hot iron three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and surround with the purée, into which should be 
incorporated the liquid from the quartered strawberries. 


(3069), OMELET WITH FRUITS, MERINGUED (Omelette aux Fruits Meringuée), 

Prepare an omelet with ten beaten eggs, a grain of salt, powdered sugar, butter and raw cream, 
the same as for frangipane omelet (No. 3058). With this preparation and some clarified butter 
cook a dozen omelets in a small frying pan and when done spread them at once on a baking sheet; 
brush the surfaces on one side only with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), bestrew with a fine salpicon 
of assorted candied fruits and roll up the omelets, cut off the ends and divide each one in two; 
spread them over with more marmalade and dress in a pyramid on a dish; scatter over more of 
the same salpicon, then cover the entire pyramid with meringue prepared as for snow eggs (No. 
3163); smooth this neatly and decorate it through a cornet; dredge over powdered sugar and poach 
the whole in a slack oven, setting the dish on top of a thick baking tin. 


(3070), OMELET WITH PUREE OF SPINACH—SWEET (Omelette Sucrée & la Purée d’Epinards) 

Blanch quickly in salt water in a copper basin afew handfuls of new spinach, having it 
very clean, tender and fresh—this is most important. When well drained and squeezed chop or 
pound and press it through a sieve. Cook some butter to hazel-nut (No. 567) in a saucepan, mix in 
with it three or four spoonfuls of the spinach and fry until the moisture is thoroughly evaporated, 
then add a handful of powdered lady fingers, a little sugar and a few spoonfuls of raw cream. 
Cook the whole from four to five minutes, remove and put in a bit of lemon peel and a piece of 
butter. Prepare a sweet omelet with seven or eight beaten eggs, and as soon as it thickens uring 
it to the front of the pan and fill it with the purée; fold over and invert it on a small, long dish; 
shape it prettily with the two ends finished in a point; bestrew with powdered sugar and glaze 
under a salamander (Fig. 123) or with an iron three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter heated red 
hot in the fire. 


(3071). OMELET WITH RUSSET APPLES (Omelette aux Pommes de Reinette), 

Cut three russet apples into quarters; peel, mince coarsely and put into a pan with six tang: 
spoonfuls of melted butter; heat well without letting them dissolve. Dilute two Espns of 
flour with two whole eggs and eight tablespoonfuls of raw cream; add to this two spoontals of 
powdered sugar and a grain of salt; pour the preparation over the apples, spreading ge on: the 
entire surface of the pan, then as soon as it begins to thicken prick it with a fork to a5) ane ia 
Dredge some brown sugar over the omelet and laying an inverted plate over hold i gc n wit 2 
the right hand and turn the pan quickly so as to receive the omelet on the plate. Melt ees I 
in the pan and slipping the omelet into it, heat-it well, rolling the pan backward and forw wl ee 
glaze the sugar without allowing the omelet to adhere, then sprinkle some more of the same sugar 
over the top and turn it again on the plate; slip it on a dish and serve. 


394 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3072), PANCAKES A LA DEJAZET (Orépes & la Déjazet). 


Work nine ounces of flour with a pint of boiling milk in a saucepan until it becomes a smooth 
paste, then add to it at once four and a half ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar and a pinch 


of salt. Set the vessel on the fire and stir it with a spoon untilit becomes thick and detaches from. 
the sides, then remove it from the fire and let the preparation get cold, afterward adding to it 


twelve egg-yolks, four ounces of sugar, a finely chopped orange peel and ten egg-whites beaten to 
a stiff froth. Heat two small frying pans, the bottom of each measuring five inches across; wipe 


them well and butter over lightly with a brush; then. pour into each one a very thin layer of the 


preparation and cook in a brisk oven, turning them over when half done. Drain them on to a cloth 
and continue until three-quarters of the preparation is used. Soak them ° with maraschino 
and cover with a layer of English coffee cream (No, 41) with vanilla added, then dress them one 
on top of the other, finishing with a pancake; cover the whole with the remainder of the prepara- 
tion, pour over some butter and brown ina hot oven, placing ‘another dish underneath the one 
they are dressed on; bestrew with sugar and glaze till they attain a fine color. Serve an apricot 
sauce with kirsch (No. 3001) separately. 


(3073), PANCAKES A LA ROSSINI—MERINGUED (Pannequets Moringués & la Rossini), 


Place in a vessel half a pound of flour, one ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt, lemon peel and 
two tablespoonfuls of orange flower water; beat with a whip to mix well and dilute the prepara- 
tion with five gills of cream, afterward adding three ounces of melted butter. Heat two small 
pancake pans, wipe them nicely and brush with clarified butter; pour into each one two spoonfuls 
of the preparation, spreading it over well and set it on a slow fire. As soon as the pancake begins 
to dry turn it over quickly and a few seconds later invert it on a baking sheet; finish cooking all 
the preparation the same way. Cover each pancake with a layer of apricot. marmalade (No. 8675) 
and roll them up on themselves. Spread a thick layer of pastry cream (No. 46) on the bottom of 
a dish, dress over the pancakes, forming them into a pyramid and cover with a layer of vanilla 
meringue with sugar (No. 140); decorate the summit with a rosette of the meringue pushed through 
a channeled socket pocket and the base with a circle of hollows; besprinkle lightly with sugar and 
push into a very slack oven to color the meringue, then fill the hollows with currant jelly (No. 
3670) and apricot marmalade (No. 3675). A Madeira sabayon sauce (No. 3096) is to be served apart. 


(3074), GERMAN PANCAKES (Orépes & VAllemande), 


Put in a bowl six ounces of flour, eight egg-yolks, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and four table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter; stir the whole to obtain a smooth preparation. Dilute this: with a gill 
and three-quarters of double cream, and add-five beaten-up egg-whites and four tablespoonfuls of 
whipped cream. Butter lightly with clarified butter the*bottom of two medium: pans; heat and 
pour into each a thin layer of the batter, spreading it over the entire surface, and push them into 
a hot oven; when half done turn them over to have them cooked evenly on both sides. As soon as 
they are finished drain them on a cloth; eet bigs hehe and Nae on a dish. 


(8075), PANCAKES OF PEACH MARMALADE MACEDOINE (Cr8pes Marmelade ae Péches 
“Macédoine), 


Have four ounces of sifted flour in a basin with one ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt, two whole 
‘eggs, one egg-yolk and the finely chopped peel of a quarter of an orange; add to the whole a 
gill and a quarter of milk. Stir well with a whip and pourin two and a half ounces of melted 
butter and with this preparation make some pancakes, six inches in diameter; from them cut with 
a pastry-cutter rounds in the center two and a half inches in diameter and around with 
another cutter six inches in diameter, so as to have them all of even size. Cover with a layer 
of peach marmalade (No. 8675) and dress on a dish, superposing one on the other; bestrew: 


with fine sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then fill the center with a macédoine 
of fruits cut in five-sixteenth inch squares, having them mingled with peach marmalade and 
maraschino, Place around a garnishing of apples cut: in inch-diameter balls and cooked in 


p, and on each one of these fasten a candied cherry with a pleve of angelica. | Serve an apricot 
ia Hs sauce (No. 3001) apart. iF Pike j RI OMS Die Mews 1 





dea Teele Jha 


SWEET ENTREMETS. 895 


(3076), PANCAKE STICKS, ROYEAUX (Pannequets Batons, Royeaux). 


Prepare six large pancakes as for pancakes A la Rossini (No. 3073); cut them in two and each cf 
these pieces into oblongs, four and a half inches long by three inches wide; lay on the center of 
each of these a spoonful of almond cream (No. 40); fold them laterally in three so as to enclose the 
cream and dip them in beaten eggs; roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into very hot frying fat to 
have them a fine golden color, then drain, bestrew with vanilla sugar (No. 3115) and dress in a 
pyramid on a napkin. Serve separately an orgeat sauce thickened with a few spoonfuls of apricot 
marmalade. See Franklyn pudding (No. 3098). : » 


(3077), PANCAKES WITH BROWN SUGAR—LIGHT (Crépes Légéres & la Cassonade), 


Put one pound of flour into a basin; make a hollow in the center and break in the eight egg- 
yolks; dilute with a glassful of milk, add three spoonfuls of sugar and a grain of salt. Work in 
the flour slowly so as to have a smooth and light, paste, then add to it three-quarters of an ounce 
of yeast dissolved. in a little warm milk and strained. Let the paste rise for two hours ina mild 
temperature, afterward mixing in with it five well-beaten’ egg-whites and one pint of whipped 
cream, then leave it stand for ten minutes longer. Put. some clarified butter into a small sauce- 
pan and use it to brush over the bottom of a small frying-pan; pour in two or three spoonfuls of the 
pancake preparation, spreading it all over the pan, and cook in the oven. Before turning the pan- 
cake over cover the surface with the clarified butter; when done slip it-ona baking tin, sweeten 
both sides with brown sugar, and when all are cooked dress and serve them very hot. 


(3078), PANCAKES WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER—LARGH (Grandes Orépes & YEau de Flevx 
d’Oranger), 


Sift twelve ounces of flour into a basin; add to it a grain of salt, and mix in six to eight eggs, 
one by one, beating the paste each time for three or four minutes so as to haveit smooth and 
light; put in two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and four spoonfuls of good olive oil; when the mix- 
ture is finished add two or three spoonfuls of raw cream, and as much brandy; the paste should 
be flowing without being liquid; cover the basin with a cloth, and let it rest for a couple of hours. 
Heat two omelet pans, butter them liberally with a brush dipped in clarified butter, and cover the 
bottom with a rather thick layer of the paste; prick it with the prong of a fork to have the liquid 
parts fall to the bottom. As soon as the pancake attains consistency rotate the pan vigorously 
to detach it from the pan, and toss it over with one stroke; butter the bottom of the pan and the 
top of the pancake with melted butter without ceasing to toss the pan over a slow fire so that it 
finishes to cook. When the pancake is properly done slide it on a round dish, having the bottom 
bestrewn with brown sugar, and dredge more of the same over the top; then sprinkle with a few 
drops of orange flower water, and on this slip the second pancake; sweeten and sprinkle it the 
same. Send the dish at once to the table so that they can be eaten hot while the other two are 


being prepared. 


(3079), PANCAKES WITH PRESERVES—LIGHT (Pannequets Légers aux Confitures), 


_ Dilute half a pound of flour with eight egg-yolks, one pint of milk, a gill of cream, and four 
ounces of melted élarified butter; add lemon or vanilla flavoring, a grain of salt, three grated bitter 
almonds, and the beaten egg-whites. Dip a brush in clarified butter, and grease over some small 
pancake pans; heat and pour into each one a spoonful of the preparation; spread it thinly over the 
entire surface of the pan, and as soon as the paste assumes a color underneath turn over on the 
other side. When done slip on a baking sheet, besprinkle with vanilla or lemon sugar, and dress 
on a dish, one on top of the other; serve with a separate plateful of preserves. 


(3080), PEACHES A LA COLBERT (Péches & la Colbert), 


Plunge twelve fine peaches into boiling water for a few seconds in order to skin them easily, 
then split, pare and take out the kernels: put the peaches to macerate in a hot twelve-degree syrup 
flavored with maraschino. As soon as the fruit is tender drain’ on a cloth, wipe and stuff each 
half with rice and cream flavored with vanilla (No. 160) and finished with a few egg-yolks; place 
two half peaches together to resemble whole ones, then cover them with a light coating of apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675), roll in pulverized macaroons, dip in beaten eggs, then in white bread-crumbs 
and fry to a fine golden color. Cut some slices of savarin cake three-quarters of an inch thick and 


{ * j 


896 THE EPICUREAN. 


with a pastry cutter remove some rounds two and a half inches in diameter; slit these half an inch 
deep with another pastry cutter an inch and a half in diameter, inserting a small kitchen knife on 
the side at a quarter of an inch from the bottom and with the tip cut around to detach the center 
only. Lay the prepared crusts on a baking tin, besprinkle over with sugar and glaze in a hot oven. 
As soon as this is accomplished and they become cold fill the empty centers with a salpicon 
of fruits mingled with apricot marmalade; decorate the edges of each crust with twelve small 
sticks of angelica, each an inch long. Lay the crusts on a dish, dress the peaches on top and heat 
in the oven twenty minutes before serving. Have a separate apricot sauce, adding a few spoonfuls. 
of almond milk and flavored with maraschino (No. 3001.) 


(3081), CONDE PEACHES (Péches Condé), 


Blanch half a pound of rice; drain and replace it in the saucepan with a pint of cream and 
half of a vanilla stick; push the pan into a slack oven and allow it to cook for forty minutes. Re- 
move the rice, suppress the vanilla and put in six egg-yolks, three ounces of fresh butter, three 
ounces of sugar and a little salt. Butter and sugar a mold one inch high by seven inches in 
diameter; fill it to the top with rice and place it in a bain-marie for twenty minutes. Split in two 
twelve fine peaches, remove the kernels, blanch and peel off the skins, pare nicely and lay them to. 
macerate in a hot thirty-degree vanilla syrup; one hour later drain the peaches ona cloth and 
wipe them well. Unmold the rice on a dish and dress the peaches over dome-shaped, cover them 
with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), bestrew with shredded pistachios and decorate the cavities. 
between the peaches, and also the border of the rice, with angelica lozenges and split candied cher- 
ries; surround the base with small pear-shaped rice croquettes. Set the dressed dish in the oven 
for twenty minutes to heat well, and serve with an apricot sauce and Madeira wine diluted with 
vanilla syrup. (See Humboldt pudding, No. 3100.) 


(3082). MERINGUED PEACHES (Péches Meringuées), 


Cook half a pound of rice in milk, proceeding the same as for rice with apples (No. 3115); finish 
with cream and butter. Cut six peaches in four, remove the kernels and plunge them into boiling 
water until the skins peel off, then drain on a cloth and cut them up into small quar- 
ters; besprinkle over with sugar. With the cooked rice form with a spoon any style of border, 
leaving a hollow in the center; inside of this dress the quartered peaches in layers, brushing them 
over with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and alternating with thin layers of the rice; the whole to 
be covered with the rice and this with a layer of meringue (No. 140); smooth the surface, deco- 
rate with meringue, dredge with fine sugar and dry in a very slow oven for twenty minutes. 


(3083), RICHELIEU PEACHES (Péches & la Richelieu), 


Butter some half-inch high flawn rings, having them two and a half inches in diameter; line 
with fine paste (No. 135), and cut it off even with the edge, then raise it up to form a crest, which 
must be pinched all around. Leave them in a cool place for fifteen minutes; egg over twice and 
prick the bottoms in several places; line the inside with buttered paper, fill up with dry rice, 
then cook in a hot oven and remove as soon as done; empty out and brush over the exteriors with 
egg-yolks and return to the oven for an instant to color the egg. Dress on around dish and line the 
inside with peach marmalade (No. 3675), then fill up with frangipane cream (No. 44) into which has 
been mixed some crushed macaroons moistened with maraschino. Smooth the surfaces well and 
dress on top of each a well-drained preserved half peach the same size as the small flawns; cover 
over with apricot or peach marmalade and then decorate with candied cherries and fanciful cuts 
of angelica; fill the centers with a salpicon of pineapple, plums and pears cut in quarter-inch 
Squares, the whole to be mixed with apricot marmalade. Keep them warm and serve separately 
a peach syrup with maraschino. 


(084), STEVENS PEACHES (Péches & la Stevens), 


Infuse a vanilla bean for one hour in a quart of boiling milk; take it out and return the milk 
to the fire; at the first boil drop into it like rain half a pound of tapioca; allow it to boil up once 
or twice, then finish cooking on the side of the range without allowing it to boil; add to it two 
ounces of sugar and four eggs, beating them in one by one. Butter some timbale molds (No. 1, 
Fig. 137), cover the bottoms with a ring of quince paste and fill the center of this ring with a 
round of greengage cut out with a cutter, then fill up the timbales with the prepared tapioca and 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 897. 


poach in a bain-marie for thirty minutes. When firm unmiold and dress in a circle on a roun@ 
dish; fill the center of this circle with a compote of peaches, decorating the top with fruits. Reduce- 


the syrup used for compoting the peaches and with it make a sauce, adding peach marmalade and. 
maraschino. 


(3085). PEARS FERRIERE (Poires Ferridre). 

Peel some pears; hollow them with a vegetable spoon and cook in a light syrup; draim 
on a sieve and stuff them with powdered macaroons moistened with a little Curacoa; cover them 
with a coating of fine apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and bestrew with finely chopped pistachios. 
Butter and sugar a surtout mold and fill it to the top with rice and cream flavored with vanilla (No. 
160) and finished with a few egg-yolks; set the mold in a sautoir with water reaching to half its 
height and put this into a slack oven to get firm; then unmold on a dish. Dress on the edge of the 
rice a circle of greengages alternated with small apple-shaped rice croquettes having their stalks 
made of pieces of angelica; range the pears ‘nside of this circle dressed in a pyramid, and amoment. 
before serving push the dish in the oven to heat well; serve separately the following sauce: Take- 
very ripe pears; peel and cut in quarters, then cook them to a compote with some thirty-degree- 
syrup; when the fruit is well cooked strain through a fine sieve to obtain a pulp; dilute this with: 
the syrup in which they were boiled, adding alsoa,few spoonfuls of kirsch. Sturtout molds are: 
made. of different sizes.as follows: About three inches, in,diameter by half, an inch high, or six 
inches in diameter by three-quarters of an inch high. | 


(8086), LOMBARDE PEARS—STUEFFED (Poires Farcies & 1a Lombarde), 

Peel one dozen medium-sized pears, leave on a part of the stalk and cut them across in two at 
two-thirds of their height; scoop them out with a vegetable spoon (Fig.91) and cook in a light syrup. 
As soon as they are done drain, wipe and stuff them with a salpicon of fruits mingled with peaz 
marmalade and flavored with kirsch, and put them together again into their original shape. Dress 
a layer of rice and cream with vanilla (No. 160), finished with a few egg-yolks, on the bottom of a 
dish; arrange the pears in a circle on the edges of this and fill the center with some stewed apples 
cut into balls with a vegetable spoon, some candied cherries washed in hot water and pineapple cut 
in dice, the whole to be diluted with a little vanilla syrup. Serve separately a sauce made of strawe-- 
berry pulp diluted with as much syrup and flavored with maraschino, 


(3087), PIE, APPLE, PEACH OR RHUBARB (Tarte aux Pommes, aux Péches ou & la Rhubarbe) 
Prepare a tart paste (No. 149). Cut into quarters six or eight very ripe apples or fine, tender” 
peaches; range them in layers ina pie dish, besprinkle with sugar, and dress them ina dome: 
form. Wet the edges of the dish and cover it with a band of the paste, half an inch wide by, ar: 
eighth of an inch in thickness; wet this band also with a fine brush, and cover the fruits and this 
band with a rolied-out flat of the same paste; press it down on.the-base of the dome, and then, 
on the band, so as to have the two adheres", Cut the paste even with. the edge of the dish, and 
scallop it all around with a small knife;, pressiilig the paste: heavily with the left thumb, and cutting 
it at short intervals from the bottom: to the top to raise the gash slightly, so that when cooking the: 
paste will rise in relief. Brush over'the top with water, and decorate with a few fanciful cuts of” 
the same paste, then egg the: surface with beaten eggs. Stand the pie ona small baking tin and’ 
push it into a slack oven to. cook for forty-five minutes, then bestrew with sugar, and leave to 
glaze ina hot oven. Instead of egging the pie may-be simply moistened with water and lightly’ 
covered with powdered sugar. | 
Rhubarb Pie.—Select fine tender stalks of rhubarb. Remove the leaves, wash and peel the stalks, 
then cut them up’ transversely in pieces three-quarters of an inch long; arrange these in layers! in: 
a pie dish intermingled with sugar, and cover and finish the same as the. above apple or peach pies. 


(3088), PIE, MARROW FRANGIPANE (Tourte Frangipane 4 la Moelle), 

Wet an eight-inch diameter tart plate and cover with a flat made of the parings of puff paste: 
(No. 146) an eighth of an inch thick; moisten the edges with a brush, lay all around a band of puff 
paste a quarter of an inch thick by three-quarters of an inch wide, and press the band down on the 
flat to have the two adhere. and fasten the two ends together. Put ina vessel three ounces of flour 
and five ounces of sugar; dilute with four eggs, dropping in one at a time, to have the whole very 
smooth, but in case this fails then strain through a fine wire sieve; increase the proportions of this 
preparation with one pint of boiling milk, and pour the whole into a saucepan to thicken on the 
fire: when this is accomplished remove and add two ounces of melted marrow. Leave cool, and. 


898 THE EPICUREAN. 


with this fill the pie up as far as the band; over these place devices of puff paste, egg over ard 
push the pie into a hot oven to cook it. When done, take out, sprinkle the surface with fine 
sugar, and return to the oven for a few moments longer, in order to have this glaze. This pie is 
to be served hot, as soon as removed from the oven. 


(3089), MINCE PIE (“Mince Pie”), 


Take a tin pie plate and line it with foundation paste (No. 135); on the edge fasten a puff paste 
(No. 146) band three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and three-quarters of an inch wide; fill the 
hollow in the plate with mincemeat (No. 117), wet the edge and cover over with a puff paste flat the 
same diameter, fastening it on firmly to the edges, egg the surface and trace on top some fanciful 
designs with the tip of a small knife; pinch all around and push in the oven to bake for an hour to 
an hour and a quarter, As soon as done remove to the oven door, bestrew with fine sugar and replace 
it in the oven for a few moments to glaze. 


(3090), PINEAPPLE, OAROLINA AND WITH RICE WITH CREAM (Ananas Qaroline et Ananas 
au Riz & la Oréme), 


Peel a pineapple neatly; remove the core with a column tube and split it lengthwise in two. 
Cut one of these halves into very small thin bands, each one being an inch and a quarter long by 
half an inch wide, and cut the other half into even slices an eighth of an inch thick. Put the 
sliced pineapple into a vessel and cover it with a cold twenty-five degree syrup, and three hours 
later drain off this syrup to add to it a little sugar melted in a small quantity of water, and cook 
it again to thirty-two degrees. Let it get cold, then flavor with a little maraschino; pour it once 
more over the pineapple. Two hours after drain the small bands on a cloth and wipe them carefully. 
Butter twelve small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 187), cover the bottoms with a ring cut from angelica 
and place a candied cherry in the center; decorate the sides with the pineapple bands overlapping 
each other, and fill the timbales as far as the top with rice and cream (No. 160), flavored with vanilla 
and finished with a few egg-yolks. Keep these timbales in a bain-marie for thirty-five minutes. 
Place the even slices of pineapple to drain, wipe dry and cover with a light layer of apricot marma- 
lade (No. 3675) flavored with kirsch. Dress the unmolded timbales in the center of a round dish 
and range the pineapple in slices around, one overlapping the other; bestrew with finely chopped 
pistachios and decorate with angelica lozenges and candied cherries. Set the dish in the oven for 
a few moments to heat the whole and serve with the syrup used to steep the pineapple, flavored 
with maraschino and then strained through a fine wire sieve into a sauce-boat. 


Pineapple with Rice with Cream.—Have some rice with cream (No. 160) flavored with 
orange, dress it in the center of a dish and garnish around it with slices of pineapple a quarter of 





Fia. 578. 


an inch thick, four inches in diameter and cut in four, having prepared them as follows: Place 
them in a copper basin and throw over them a thirty-degree syrup and allow to infuse for an hour; 
drain. Pound the parings and mix them with the syrup in which the pineapples were infused; 
pass through a sieve and serve as a sauce. 


(3091), POUPELIN (Poupelin), 


Pour one pint of water into a saucepan, adding a pinch of salt, an ounce of sugar and two 
ounces of butter; set the saucepan on the fire and at the first boil fill up the liquid with as much 
flour as it can possibly absorb; then dry it on the fire, proceeding the same as a cream cake paste 
(No. 182). Afterward incorporate six whole eggs, one at a time, and six yolks, working the paste 
thoroughly. Pour this preparation into a buttered charlotte mold; cook in a slack oven, 
3ad when done unmold and allow to cool on a grate; empty the inside only, leaving a crust a 
quarter of an inch in thickness, and fill the empty interior with frangipane cream (No. 44), alternat- 





f 
; 


re 


SWEET ENTREMETS. 899 


ing with a layer of salpicon of fruits. Return it to the oven for half an hour and just when pre- 
pared to serve remove and turn it over ona dish. Serve an apricot and kirsch sauce (No. 8001) in 
a sauce tureen at the same time. 


(3092), PUDDING A LA BENVENUTO (Pouding & la Benvenuto), 

Cook five to six large pancakes and cut them up into inch-wide bands. Butter a dome-shaped 
cylindrical mold and line it with these bands, one overlapping the other. Put seven ounces of flour 
in a saucepai with one pint of boiling milk and thicken it on the fire to obtain a smooth paste; 
remove it at once and add to it two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, four ounces of sugar, two 
ounces of grated cocoanut laid on a paper-covered baking sheet and slightly roasted in the oven, 
the peel of one lemon and eight raw egg-yolks; return it to the fire, stirring continuously, and as 
soon as the preparation attains consistency incorporate into it slowly the well-beaten whites of 
five eggs. With this fill up the mold, alternating it with layers of pancake parings, first covered 
with apple jelly (No. 3668) and then rolled up. Set the mold into a saucepan with boiling water 
reaching to half its height and place it on the range; when the water boils, finish cooking in a slow 
oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as this is accomplished take out the pudding, let it stand for 
five minutes, then unmold it on a dish and serve at once witha sauce-boat of orange syrup thickened 
with arrowroot and flavored with maraschino. 


(3093), PUDDING A LA BRADLEY (Pouding & la Bradley). 

Soak one pound of bread-crumbs in hot milk; extract all the moisture and place it in a sauce- 
pan, pouring over it a few spoonfuls of raw cream. Stir briskly with a spoon and add twenty-four 
egg-yolks, ten ounces of sugar, ten ounces of butter, a little at a time, twelve tablespoonfuls of 
frangipane (No. 44), a grain of salt, a grated orange peel, a pound and a quarter of Smyrna raisins © 
and eight ounces of candied pineapple cut up in small squares, and lastly fifteen well-beaten egg- 
whites. With this preparation fill three-quarters full some buttered and floured pudding molds; 
place them in a deep baking pan containing boiling water and poach for one hour in the bain-marie 
in a slack oven. Serve with a Sabayon with California wine (No. 3096). This quantity is sufficient 
for twenty persons. 


(3094), MELLOW PUDDING, APRICOT SAUCE (Pouding Moelleux, Sauce aux Abricots.) 

Skin half a pound of suet and pass it twice through the machine (Fig. 47); pound it with five 
ounces of beef marrow and pass it through a sieve; put it into a vessel with fourteen ounces of 
powdered sugar and beat up for ten minutes with a spoon, then add two whole eggs and from fifteen 
to eighteen yolks, little by little, five ounces of white bread-crumbs soaked in hot milk and well 
pressed, pounded and diluted with a little raw cream and then passed through a sieve, and lastly 
add four or five spoonfuls of brandy, salt, grated lemon peel and one pound of candied fruits cut 
in quarter-inch squares and ten ounces of Smyrna raisins. Puta little of this preparation in asmall 
timbale mold and poach it in a bain-marie to judge whether its consistency be correct. Butter some 
plain or cylindrical molds, flour them over and fill them three-quarters full with the preparation; 
place these molds ina deep baking tin with hot water and poach for one hour in a slack oven. Let 
stand for ten minutes and then unmold on a dish and cover with apricot and rum sauce (No. 3001). 
This quantity is sufficient for twenty persons. 


(3095), CABINET PUDDING A LA ROYALE (Pouding Cabinet & la Royale), 

Buiter a syuare, hinged mold and fill it three-quarters full with Savarin paste (No. 148); 
ieave it to'rise in a mild temperature and when it reaches to a quarter of an inch from the top 
close the cover and bake in a slack oven. As soon as it is done unmold and leave set till the 
following day. Butter and sugar a cylindrical timbale mold. Cut up the stale Savarin cake in 
quarter-inch thick slices and cover one side with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); cut some of these 
into inch-wide bands the same height as the mold and fasten them on their uncovered side all 
around the inside of the mold, having them standing upright and overlapping each other; cut the 
remainder of the slices into dice and use them to fill up the mold in alternate layers with candied 
fruits also cut dice-shaped and macaroons. Put ina vessel twelve egg-yolks, two whole eggs, six 
ounces of sugar and two ounces of orange sugar; beat the whole together and dilute with a pint of 
milk and a pint of cream; pass it through a wire sieve. Pour this preparation slowly into the mold 
until well filled. then leave it to soak for several minutes; lay the mold.in a saucepan with water 
reaching to half its height and cook it in a slack oven for an hour and a quarter; take it from the 
oven and let stand for a few moments, then unmold it on a dish and cover over with apricot mar- 
malade. Serve with a sauce-boat of Sabayon with Marsala sauce (No. 3096). 


900 THE -EPICUREHANS = 


- (3096), CABINET PUDDING WITH SABAYON (Pounding Cabinet au Sabayou), © 


Prepare a Genoese cake mixture the same as for No. 3239; pour and spread it on a baking 
sheet, covered with buttered paper, in a layer haif an inch thick, and bake it in a slow oven; whem 
done, remove and invert it on a grate, lift off the paper and let get cold. Wash three-quarters of 
a pound of candied fruits in hot water, such as pears, apricots, plums, orange peel and cherries; cut 
them up into quarter-inch dice, and lay them in a vessel; mix with a few crushed macaroons, and. 
pour a few spoonfuls of rum over the whole. Butter and sugar a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150), 
place in its bottom thin slices of the Genoese cake, overlapping each other, and scatter on top a part 
of the fruits and macaroons; on these lay more slices of cake, then more sean proceeding the same: 
as before, and continue the operation until the mold is full. Break ten egg-yolks into a vessel, 
beat in four ounces of sugar, and add the grated peel of one lemon; mix with a whisk, and dilute- 
this preparation with a quart of cream, then run the whole through a fine sieve. Pour it over the: 
pudding, filling it well, and let it soak thoroughly for several minutes, then place it in a bain-marie- 
and when the water has reached boiling point push it into a slack oven to cook. for one hour. Un- 
mold the pudding on a dish, cover it with Madeira Sabayon sauce, and serve more of it separately. 


For the Sabayon, put half a pound of sugar and eight egg.yolks in a bain-marie,'set it on the: 
fire, and whip the preparation until it becomes frothy, then add half a pint:of Madeira or other 
wine, and continue to whip until the sauce is very oy and. Lee to eget then remove it at: 
once from the bain- amet and serve. AS at! ah wat BAG 


(3097). COUNTESS PUDDING Ponding & la Comtesse), 


Prepare a small biscuit preparation the same as for lady fingers (No. 3377): spread it, out om 
a sheet of buttered paper to the thickness of three-sixteenths of an inch, and cook in a slack oven, 
being careful to keep it soft. As soon as done remove from the oven, take off the paper and cut the 
cake into four-inch wide bands down its entire length; cover each one of these bands with a layer 
of strawberry marmalade passed through a sieve, and roll them up into cylindricals an inch and a 
half in diameter; wrap them at once in paper to tighten and keep firm, and let them rest for one- 
hour, then cut them intoslices a quarter of an inch thick. Butter adome-shaped cylindrical mold, 
and with the rolled slices of cake cover the interior sides, then fill the empty hollow with a Saxony 
soufflé pudding preparation (No. 3107); place it in a saucepan with boiling water to half its height 
and let come to a boil, then remove the saucepan from the. fire, and push it into a slack oven. 
After forty minutes take it out and let cool off for a few moments, then unmold ona dish, and 
cover with hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Serve a sauceboat of Richelieu and liquor. sauce- 
made as follows: Heat a pint of thirty-degree syrup, and remove it from the fire, thicken with a 
little arrowroot dissolved in cold water, and add. a few. cherries. (come faigicked are peters: pis: 
tachios; flavor with: kirsech. : ve raie. ray Weis ON 


(309 8). FRANKLYN PUDDING € Ponting a a Frankly), 


Put half a pound of butter into a vessel, ‘beat it to a cream, ‘and add to it’ seven egg: yolks, one- 
at‘a time. When the preparation has become frothy’ put with it gradually six ounces of peeled, 
and dried almonds that have been pounded and rubbed ‘through a ‘sieve, six ounces of sugar, 
six ounces of bread-crumbs, and eight ounces of candied fruits, suchas, candied cherries cut in two, 
pineapple and ‘orange ‘peel cut in dice, and finally six well beaten. egg- ‘whites. “Pour this prepara- 
tion into a cylindrical timbale mold (Fig. 150), and place this in a sautoir with water to half its. 
height; set it on the fire to come to a boil, then push it into a slack oven. At. the expiration of” 
forty-five minutes remove the pudding fern the oven, let it rest for a few moments, then unmold: 
it on a dish; cover it with orgeat sauce, and serve with a bowlful of the same. 

The orgeat ‘sauce is made by cooking four ounces of sugar to ‘‘ small crack” (No. 171), then. 
adding a gillof almond milk (No. 4), and boiling once. Thicken the sauce with a spoonful of fecula. 
diluted with a little water and half a gill of rich cream. | 


(3099). PUDDING A LA DE FREESE (Pouding & 1a de Freese) 


Chop up and pass through a sieve five ounces of beef marrow; place it in a vessel and beat it: 
up to a cream with five ounces of sugar, adding singly eight egg-yolks and three whole eggs, and 
have the preparation very light. Then incorporate one pound of white meat taken from a chicken, 
pounded with two and a half gills of cream, six ounces of well-reduced apple marmalade, twelve: 
ounces of Smyrna raisins thoroughly washed in hot water, and finally six stiffly whipped egg~ 








P 


SWEET ENTREMETS. 901 


whites. Pour this preparation into a dome-shaped cylindrical pudding mold, well buttered and 
sugared. Stand the mold in a saucepan with hot water to reach to half its height and bring to a 
boil, then put it into a slack oven. Take out the pudding at the end of forty-five minutes and let 
stand five or six minutes; then unmold it on a dish and cover witha sabayon sauce (No. 3096), well 
flavored with Madeira, and serve more of this sauce in a sauce-boat. 


(3100). HUMBOLDT PUDDING (Pounding & la Humboldt) 


Cook five or six large pancakes; cover them on one side with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 
3679) and cut them up into bands each an inch and a quarter wide and through their entire length. 
Butter a dome-shaped cylindrical mold and fasten the pancake bands on their uncovered side against 
the sides of the mold, overlapping each other. Cover the pancake parings with apricot marma- 
Jade and roll them into small rolls, then cut them in half-inch long bits. Beat eight ounces of 

butter to a cream, add to it, one by one, four whole eggs and two whites; when this becomes frothy, 
put in four ounces of sugar, then four ounces of flour and four ounces of peeled almonds dried and 

pounded with four ounces of sugar, afterward passed through a sieve. Mix the whole properly 
and lastly incorporate into it three well-beaten egg-whites. Pour this preparation into the pan- 
eake-lined mold, alternating it with layers of the small rolls previously prepared; when the mold is 
full set it in a bain-marie and allow the water to come to a boil on the fire, then cook it in a slack 
oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as the pudding is done take it out and let it stand for a few 
moments before unmolding it on a dish, brush it over with hot apricot marmalade and serve with 
a sauce-boat of apricot sauce. Place two gills of apricot marmalade in a saucepan, diluting it with 
two gills of syrup; set it on the fire to boil up once, then strain through a fine wire sieve and add 
two gills of good Madeira wine. 


(310), ITALIAN PUDDING (Pouding & !’Italienne), 


Soften in boiling water half a pound of Smyrna raisins and half a pound of candied orange 
peel cut in small dice. Place them in a vessel with half a pound of candied cherries washed in hot 
water and pouring over a few spoonfuls of rum leave them to marinate for one hour. Prepare a 
small quantity of Genoese cake preparation (No. 3239) finished with orange and spread it ona 
sheet of paper in a quarter of an inch thick layer, then bake it in a hot oven. As soon as done 
turn it over on a table, remove the paper and cover with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), 
then cut it up into inch and a half in diameter round pieces. Butter and sugar a cylindrical 
timbale mold (Fig. 150) and lay in the bottom a circle of these pieces, overlapping each other; scatter 
over the marinated fruits into which have been mingled a few crushed macaroons and on top dress 
another circle of the cake the same as the first, then more fruits and macaroons, and continue thus 
until the mold is full. Put into a vessel six egg-yolks, two whole eggs and four ounces of sugar, 
having a part of it flavored with orange; beat the whole well to mingle properly and dilute with a 
pint and a half of double cream and half a gill of rum; pass this through a wire sieve and pour it 
slowly into the mold until full, then cook the pudding in a bain-marie 
in a slack oven, and just when ready to serve unmold on a dish and 
pour over a frothy rum sauce (No. 3103), serving more of it sepa- 
rately. 


(8102), PEACH PUDDING A LA OLEVELAND (Pouding de Péches a 
| la Cleveland), 


Cut twenty sound peaches in four pieces; lay them in a vessel, 







































































Fic. 579. 


sprinkle over with a handful of powdered sugar and tet macerate for half an hour, tossing 
them about at frequent intervals. Line a dome-shaped mold wider than its height with a very 
thin suet pudding paste (No. 2322); fill the inside with the quartered peaches, placing them In 


902 THE EPICUREAN. 





layers and bestrewing brown sugar between each one. Cover the fruits with a round flat 
of the paste and fasten it solidly to the sides. Close the mold with its own lid and wrap 
it up in a cloth, then plunge it into boiling water and let cook for an hour and a half, 
having it remain at a boiling degree during the whole time. Just when ready to serve re- 
move the mold, unwrap and invert the pudding on a dish and cover it over with a Madeira 
sauce with peaches, serving some of it separately. For the sauce have six to eight very ripe 
peaches; remove the stones, crush the fruit and adding a few spoonfuls of sugar and two gills of 
water let cook for a few moments. Strain this sauce through a fine wire sieve and add to it a few 
tablespoonfuls of maraschino. 


(3103), PLUM PUDDING, ST, GEORGE (Plum Pouding 8. £ qeatel 


Place in a vessel one pound of beef kidney suet, very dry, free of fibers and chopped up very 
finely; one pound of seeded Malaga raisins; one pound of currants, cleaned and washed in plenty 
of water; one pound of bread-crumbs, sifted through a sieve; a 
quarter of a pound of candied lemon peel chopped up very fine; 
one pound of powdered sugar; four tablespoonfuls of flour; a quar-. 
ter of an ounce of ground cinnamon; a quarter of an ounce of nut- 
meg and allspice; a pint of brandy and six eggs. Mix the whole 
well together. Dip a strong cloth, in cold water and wring it out to 
extract all its moisture; spread it open on a table and butter it 
liberally with butter softened to the consistency of cream; dredge 





Fie. 582. 


over with sifted flour and shake the cloth to remove the excess of flour that has failed to adhere 
to the butter. Lay in the center of this cloth the above prepared mixture, form it in the 
shape of a ball, raise up the edges of the cloth bringing the four ends together and all around 
so as to enclose the preparation well, then tighten and tie firmly. Have on the fire a high 
saucepan filled to three-quarters of its height with water; when this boils plunge in the plum ~ 
pudding and let cook for three hours, then remove it from the water. Have it stand for 
five minutes before cutting the string; undo the cloth carefully and invert the pudding on 
a hot dish; besprinkle it with sugar, pour over some brandy or rum and set it on the fire; serve 
immediately. Have a separate sauce-boat of frothy vanilla and rum sauce to be made as follows: 


Frothy Vanilla and Rum Sauce.—Chop up half a pound of beef marrow, melt it in a bain- 
marie, then strain through a napkin into a bowl and whip it until it begins to froth, then add four 
ounces of fresh butter broken in small parts, four ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and lastly, 
half a gill of rum; serve. 


(3104). PLUMERY PUDDING (Pouding 4 la Plumery). 


Pound four ounces of raw beef marrow, pass it through a sieve and place it in a vessel; beat 
it up to a cream, adding five egg-yolks and two whole eggs, one at a time. When this prepara- 
tion becomes creamy add to it four ounces of powdered almonds passed through a sieve, two 
ounces of cracker dust, three ounces of crushed macaroons, two ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in 
rum, two ounces of angelica and one ounce of orange peel, both washed in hot water and cut into 
quarter-inch squares. When all these ingredients have been properly mixed incorporate slowly 
into the whole four egg-whites beaten to a very stiff froth; pour this preparation into a cylindrical 
buttered and sugared mold and cook it in a bain-marie in a very slack oven. Just when pre- 
pared to serve unmold the pudding on a dish, cover it with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and 
serve with a sauce-boat of apricot sauce prepared with almond milk. 

Apricot Sauce with Almond Milk.—Have two gills of apricot pulp, four ounces of sugar and 
two gills of water placed in a saucepan; stand it on the fire and allow to cook for a few moments, 
then strain through a fine strainer and add one gill of almond milk (No. 4); return it to the 


saucepan and heat the sauce without boiling; just when prepared to serve add a tablespoonful of 
noyau liqueur. 


SWEET ENTREMETS. | 903 


(3105), RICE PUDDING A LA BAGRATION (Pouding de Riz & la Bagration) 


Wash half a pound of rice; blanch it properly in plenty of water, drain and put it into a 
saucepan with one quart of milk and half a stick of vanilla; let it cook for forty minutes in the 
oven, then withdraw and suppress the vanilla; add to it three ounces of sugar, two ounces of 
latter, a pinch of salt, six yolks and one whole egg, mixing all well together. Stir in six ounces 
of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch dice, such as pears, greengages, pineapples, cherries, and 
lastly add three well-beaten egg-whites. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped cylindrical mold; fill it 
four-fifths full with the preparation and lay it in a saucepan with water to half its height; place 
it on the fire until the water boils, then in a slack oven to cook for fifty minutes. Remove the 
pudding from the fire, let it stand for five minutes, then unmold on a dish and cover with English. 
cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004), having more of it served separately. | 


(3106), RICE PUDDING, FRUIT SAUCE (Pouding au Riz, Sauce aux Fruits), 

Wash one pound of rice; blanch and cook in two quarts of milk and cream, half of each, pro- 
ceeding the same as for rice pudding (No. 3105); when done sweeten with six ounces of sugar, finish 
it witha grated orange peel, a handful of chopped almonds, and two ounces of butter; remove it 
from the fire, and when almost cold incorporate fifteen to eighteen egg-yolks, one by one, without 
ceasing to beat up the preparation; add also twenty ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch 
squares, and lastly twelve to fourteen egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. With this fill five but- 
tered and floured molds; place them in a deep baking-pan with hot water, and poach the pud- 
dings for nearly one hour in a slack oven. At the last moment unmold on a dish, cover them 
liberally with apricot and kirsch sauce (No. 3001), and serve separately a sauce-boatful of Bischoff 
sauce; for this see fried cream Pamela (No. 3013). 


(3107), SAXONY PUDDING—SOUFFLED (Pouding Soufflé 4 la Saxonne), 


Sift half a pound of flour into a saucepan and dissolve it with half a pint of boiling milk, into 
which has been infused half a vanilla bean; mix with this four ounces of butter and four ounces 
of sugar; set the saucepan on the fire and stir the mixture with a spatula until it detaches from 
the saucepan. Then remove it from the fire and beat in four ounces of butter and four ounces of 
yanilla sugar; continue to stir until it attains body, and let it lose its greatest heat, then add at 
once ten egg-yolks, four ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch dice, and six stiffly beaten 
egg-whites; pour this preparation into a dome-shaped mold with a tube in the center, and cook it 
in a bain-marie in a slack oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as done unmold the pudding on @ 
dish, cover it over with a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and serve with a separate apricot 
sauce with noyau (No. 3100). 


(3108), SCOTCH PUDDING (Pouding a V'Boossaise), 


Soften twelve ounces of beef marrow at the oven door, without letting it melt. Pass 
it through a strainer and lay it in a bowl to beat to a cream, adding to it one by one ten egg-yolks, 
two whole eggs, also a pinch of salt, then put in fourteen ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, 
two ounces of candied cherries cut in two, four ounces of candied orange and lemon peel cut in 
small three-sixteenth inch squares and half a gill of rum; lastly mix in ten egg-whites, beaten to 
a very stiff froth. Transfer this preparation into a buttered and sugared dome-shaped mold with 
a tube in its center; set it into a saucepan with water reaching to half its height, and place the 
saucepan on the fire for the water to come to a boil, then finish cooking in the oven for forty 
minutes. As soon as the pudding is done unmold it on a dish and cover over with apricot mar- 
malade (No. 3675) diluted with a little Madeira wine: serve with a sauce-boatful of sauce or punch 
made as follows: Put in a saucepan a gill and a half of brandy, a gill and a half of rum, a gill of 


a lemon and of an orange and a small bit of cinnamon. Just when 


vanilla syrup, the peel of 
onds to burn out the 


ready to serve heat without boiling and then set it on the fire for a few sec 
alcohol; cover the saucepan at once to extinguish the fire, and serve. 


(3109), SCHILLER PUDDING (Pounding & la Schiller), 

Prepare twelve to fifteen large pancakes and with some of them line a liberally buttered cylin- 
drical mold (Fig. 150). Cover half of the remaining pancakes with a layer of apricot marmalade 
(No. 3675), and the other half with frangipane cream (No. 43); roll these pancakes up separately 
into rolls and cut them into three-quarter inch thick slices; range these in alternate layers inside the 


O04 THE EPICUREAN. 


mold with a few candied cherries washed in hot water interspersed between. Put in a vessel twelve 
yolks and two whole eggs, also six ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 8165); beat up well and then stir 
in a quart of milk. Pass it through a fine wire strainer into the mold. Lay the mold in water 
reaching to half its height; set it on the fire and when it comes to a boil put it into a slack oven 
to cook for one hour; remove, let stand and unmold on a dish; brush the pudding over with apricot 
marmalade and serve with a sauce-boat of English cream and vanilla sauce (No. 3004). 


(8110), SPANISH PUDDING (Pouding a l'Espagnole), 


Put four ounces of clarified butter into a saucepan and heat it well, then add to it eight ounces 
of white bread-crumbs and let it cook until it becomes a fine golden color, while stirring it 
from time to time with a spatula; withdraw the saucepan from the fire and dilute the preparation 
with a gill of milk and a gill of cream and dry it for a few moments over the fire. Add to it the 
peel of one lemon, a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of rum, three ounces of sugar and six egg-yolks; 
stir well and lastly mix in the well-beaten whites of six eggs. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped 
cylindrical mold, fill it up with the preparation and place it in a saucepan with boiling water ~ 
to half its height; set the saucepan on the fire to have the liquid come to a boil, then withdraw it 
at once and push it into a slack oven so that the pudding can cook for forty-five minutes. When 
this is accomplished take it out and let it stand from five to six minutes; unmold on a dish 
and cover with an English cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004) with rum added; serve more of the sauce - 
apart. 


(3111), TYROLEAN PUDDING (Pouding 4 la Tyrolienne), 


Soften five ounces of beef marrow, run it through a sieve into a vessel and beat it up to a 
eream, adding five egg-yolks and five whole eggs, one at a time. As this becomes frothy put into it 
six ounces of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), six ounces of grated chocolate, six ounces of lady finger 
crumbs soaked in a gill and three-quarters of double cream, three ounces of Smyrna raisins 
well cleansed and washed in hot water, and lastly beat in six very stiff egg-whites. Butter and 
sugar a dome-shaped mold with a cylindrical center, fill it with the preparation and place it in a 
bain-marie in a saucepan; bring the water to a boil, then push it into a slack oven to cook for forty 
to forty-five minutes; take it from the oven and let stand for a few moments before unmolding 
on a dish; cover over with chocolate sauce and serve more of the same separately. 


Chocolate Sawce.—Dilute two ounces of chocolate with two gills of water and a gill of vanilla 
syrup; let boil, then strain through a fine strainer and add one gill of rich cream. 


(3112), PUDDING WITH ALMONDS—LIGHT (Pounding Léger aux Amandes), 


Dissolve ten ounces of fine wheat and rice flour (half of each) in one and a half pints of 
almond milk (No. 4). Strain this liquid into a saucepan and add to it salt, half a pound of sugar 
and three ounces of butter, Coox the preparation, avoid all lumps and do not cease to stir until 
if detaches from the saucepan, then take it off and pour it into a vessel; incorporate with it-slowly 
twelve egg-yolks, beating them in vigorously, and then add five ounces more butter, four ounces of 











Fic. 583. 


finely pounded almonds, the peel of an orange, and finally nine well-beaten egg-whites. Butter 
some dome-shaped pudding molds, having them wider than their height, cover the interior sides 
with small flat round pieces of lady fingers cut out with a cutter and fill the hollow space three- 
quarters full with the preparation; poach the puddings for fifty minutes m a bain-marie with the 
vessel covered, and before removing push them into a slack oven to dry the tops. Take them out 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 905 


and unmold five minutes after on a hot dish; cover them lightly with an apricot sauce made with 
rum (No. 3001), and in each pudding insert a small hatelet composed of three graduated rounds of 

candied pineapple. Serve separately an apricot sauce mingled with almond milk, the same as for 
Plumery pudding (No. 3104). _ This quantity is sufficient for ten persons. 


(3113). PUDDING WITH BURNT ALMONDS—SOUFFLED (Pouding Soufflé aux Pralines), 


Sift six ounces of rice flour in a saucepan; dissolve it with a pint of boiling milk and thicken 
the preparation over the fire, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon; when it detaches from the 
side of the saucepan take it off and add to it one ounce of butter, four ounces of burnt almonds 
ground to a dust and passed through a sieve, a pinch of ‘salt, six ounces of sugar, eight egg-yolks, 
two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, and finally six very stiffly whipped egg-whites. Butter and 
sugar a dome-shaped cylindrical mold, fill it up in layers, alternating the preparation with slices of 
Savoy biscuit or lady fingers soaked in maraschino and quarters of candied apricots well washed in 
hot water. When the mold is full set it in a bain-marie and let the water come to a boil, then finish 
cooking for forty minutes in a slow oyen. As soon as the pudding is unmolded on a dish cover it 
with apricot sauce made with almond milk (No. 4) and maraschino, serving more of it in a bowl. 
For this sauce see light pudding with almond milk (No. 3104). 


(3114), PUDDING WITH HAZEL-NUTS—SOUFFLED ‘Pouding Soufflé aux Noisettes). 

Dilute in a saucepan seven or eight spoonfuls of rice fecula with four to six gills of hazel-nut 
milk, prepared the same: as almond milk (No. 4); add to it a grain of salt and a piece of butter: 
thicken the preparation over the fire, stirring it about with aspoon; after it attains the consistency 
of a soufflé preparation remove and add to it a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and a 
quarter of a pound of butter, then ten egg-yolks, one whole egg, two spoonfuls of whipped cream 
and four egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a timbale mold, fill it with the preparation 
laid in alternate layers with slices of biscuit cut very thin, 2sver over with some apricot marmalade 
(No. 3675), and when the mold is full set it in a saucepan vontaining hot water to reach to half its 
height, then poach for three-quarters of an hour ina bain-marie. At the last moment unmold it 
on a dish and cover with English cream with almonds and vanilla (No. 42), serving more of the 
sauce (No. 3004) separately. : 


(8115), RICH WITH APPLES (Riz aux Pommes), 


Prepare some minced apples, the same as for an apple charlotte (No. 3008), not having them 
too sweet. Blanch eight ounces of picked ana washed rice, drain on a sieve, refresh and put it in 
@ saucepan with some milk; cook itslowly without stirring, keeping it slightly consistent, and lastly 
mix in four ounces of powdered lemon sugar, a few spoonfuls of cream and apiece of butter; remove 
to a much slower fire in order to allow the liquid to became entirely absorbed, then take up the rice 
with a spoon and place it in layers on a deep dish, alternating each one with a layer of the apples, 
giving the whole a, dome shape, and finishing with the rice. Dredge the top with cinnamon or 
vanilla sugar and serve at once. ea | 

Sugar Flavored with Vanilla.—Have four ounces of vanilla ‘Deans,.split them in two, chop 
and pound them in a mortar witha pound and a half of loaf sugar “until exceedingly fine, then 
pass through a fine hairsieve. Keep ina hermetically closed box ina dry place until needed fox 
use. . 


(3116). RISSOLES WITH PRESERVES AND WITH ALMOND CREAM (Rissoles & la Confiture st 
3 la Oréme d’Amandes), 


Roll out into a square layer, an eighth of an inch in thickness, one pound of fine short paste 
(No. 135) or puff paste parings (No. 146); cut the edges straight and range on the top at desired 
distances apart small balls of any kind of thick marmalade; wet the paste to form the rissoles (No. 
161), and when they are cut out press down the borders of the paste with the fingers in order to 
diminish its thickness, then cut the rissoles again with the same pastry cutter, so as to have them ali 
alike, and fasten the paste together. Dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into 
hot fat. Cook them slowly, drain and roll in vanilla sugar (No. 8165), then dress on a folded 
napkin. ) 

With Almond Cream.—Prepare the rissoles the same as for the above, replacing the preserves 
by small balls of almond cream (No. 40) placed an inch and a half from the edges and at the same 
distance from one another; finish them exactly the same. 


906 THE EPICUREAN. 


(2117). SAVARIN WITH APRICOTS (Savarin aux Abricots), 


Sift one pound of flour into a warm vessel, make a leaven with a quarter of the flour and half 
an ounce of yeast dissolved in tepid water; cover it over with a part of the flour and let rise in a 
mild heat. When it has risen to double its primitive volume remove from the warm place and 
break it up with the hand to make the sponge, giving the paste plenty of body. Mix into it gradu- 
ally eight whole eggs and six separate yolks, and working in the flour knead it vigorously for ten 


minutes, then add slowly half a pound of melted butter, six ounces of sugar, a grain of salt, lemon ~ 


peel and lastly four spoonfuls of raw cream. Take up the paste in small parts with the hands and 
fill one or several buttered Savarin molds three-quarters full; let rise as high as the edges in a 
mild temperature, then bake the cakes in a moderate oven. As soon as they are removed moisten 
them with syrup infused with lemon or orange peel and any desired liqueur, then drain on a dish, 
cover with Madeira apricot sauce, filling the hollows with hot stewed apricots. Serve an apricot 
sauce with Madeira apart, the same as for Humboldt pudding (No. 3100). 


(3118), SOUFFLE OF CHESTNUTS WITH VANILLA (Soufflé de Marrons & la Vanille), 


Skin half a pound of raw chestnuts, then grate them; pound three ounces of almonds with 
four ounces of powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165). Beat in a bowl four ounces of fresh butter, 
mixing into it six or seven egg-yolks, and when the preparation is frothy add the chestnuts, sugar 
and almonds, then five or six beaten whites. Pour all this into a buttered soufflé pan (Fig. 182) 
and cook it for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven; glaze over with sugar before removing 
.and serve without delay. : 


(3119), SOUFFLE OF CHOCOLATE (Soufflé au Chocolat), 


Melt in a saucepan at the oven door, in a little tepid water, four ounces of grated chocolate; 
remove and pour it into a bowl to smooth nicely; mix into it five or six spoonfuls of vanilla sugar 
(No. 3165), beating it in vigorously, then add four or five spoonfuls of the following preparation: 
Place in a tureen two tablespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of arrowroot, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
a little salt; dilute with half a gill of milk; strain into a saucepan and add two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter and:a little vanilla; stir on the fire until it boils and when smooth reduce till it is. 
consistent and detaches from the pan; take out the vanilla and let partly cool. Add eight raw 
egg-yolks, two ounces of melted butter, four beaten whites and three spoonfuls of whipped cream. 
When all these ingredients are well incorporated pour the préparation into one or two soufflé pans. 
(Fig. 182) without filling them too high. Set the pan on a small baking sheet and bake the soufflés. 
in a slack oven from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 


(3120). SOUFFLES IN CASES WITH VANILLA OR ORANGE—SMALL (Petits Soufflés en Caisses: 
& la Vanille ou a l’Orange), 

Put into a vessel four spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of fecula, four spoonfuls of sugar and a 
grain of salt; dilute with two and a half gills of milk, then strain it into a saucepan, adding a lump- 
of butter the size of an egg and a piece of vanilla; stiron a 
slow fire until it comes to a boil and when smooth reduce: 
until it detaches easily from the saucepan, then take out 
the vanilla and let the preparation get almost cold before 
stirring in another piece of butter and five to six egg- 
yolks one after the other, while continuing to beat briskly; 





Fie. 584. 


lastly add the beaten whites and three spoonfuls of whipped cream. With this mixture fill some 


soufflé cases (Fig. 584) two-thirds full, range them on a small baking sheet and place in a slack 
oven to cook for twenty minutes. Serve just as quickly as they leave the oven. 


With Orange.—Instead of vanilla, flavor the souffiés with two tablespoonfuls of orange sugar 
(No. 3165). 


(3121), SOUFFLE OF RICE WITH MARASCHINO (Soufflé de Riz au Marasquin), 

Boil six ounces of rice in plenty of water; drainand set it in a vessel and pour a little maraschino- 
over. Prepare a vanilla soufflé preparation (No. 3120) and after the egg-whites have been mixed in, 
dress it in layers in a soufflé pan (Fig.182), alternating each one with a small part of the well-drained 
rice. When the souffié pan is three-quarters full place it on a baking sheet and push it into a well 
heated oven; three minutes later remove to split the shape of a cross on top and return it to the 
oven to let cook for twenty-five minutes more, glazing it over with fresh butter. Serve as soon as- 
it is taken from the oven, as soufflés should never be left waiting to be served. 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 907 


(3122), SOUFFLE WITH RASPBERRIES (Soufilé aux Framboises), 


Place seven ounces of rather stiff raspberry jelly in a small basin and mix slowly in with it 
seven ounces of powdered sugar so as to obtain a consistent preparation, then incorporate one 
after the other four to five unbeaten egg-whites, stirring up the whole vigorously with a whisk for 
twenty minutes. When this is frothy and firm color it with a few drops of vegetable carmine (No. 
37) and pour it into a soufflé pan (Fig. 182) to cook for forty minutes in a very slack oven. Five 
minutes before removing the soufflé from the oven glaze it with sugar, set it on a hot dish and 
cover with a large hot dish cover; serve it immediately. 


(3123), TIMBALE A LA FIGARO (Timbale & la Figaro), 


Cut one pound of short paste (No. 185) into four pieces; roll them on the table into long quarter- 
inch thick strings and dip these strings as fast as they are done in melted clarified butter; arrange them 
ina spiral around the inside of a timbale mold, being careful to fasten the ends securely with beaten 
eggs. Leave the timbale rest for half an hour in a cool place, then fill it up in alternate layers of 
apples cut in quarters, cooked in butter, and masked with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fran- 
gipane (No. 44) with almonds. Cover over with a flat of short paste, egg the surface, and set it in 
the oven to cook for forty-five minutes. One moment before serving turn the timbale out on a 
dish, cover it with hot apricot marmalade, and strew over finely chopped pistachios and almonds, 
then decorate the top with rosette of angelica lozenges, having a greengage in the center; surround 
the base of the dome with brandied geeengages. Heat the whole for ten minutes in the oven, 
and serve with an apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001). 


(3124), ZEPHYR OF RICE WITH PINEAPPLE (Zéphyr de Riz & l’Ananas), 


Cook half a pound of blanched rice in milk; when sweetened withdraw it to a slower fire to let 
attain more consistency, and then finish with a large piece of fresh butter divided in pats. Ten 
minutes later incorporate into it two or three spoonfuls of crushed chestnuts and six egg-yolks, one: 
after the other, and lastly the half of five beaten whites mixed with three spoonfuls of whipped 
cream. Add to this preparation five to six spoonfuls of candied pineapple cut in small dice, andi 
pour the whole into a timbale mold previously buttered and glazed with fine sugar and fecula. 
Lay the mold in a saucepan on a small trivet with hot water reaching to a third of its height, and 
boil the liquid; remove it toa much lower fire or else toa slack oven, and cook the zephyr for three- 
quarters of an hour. Finally unmold it on a dish and surround with small slices of preserved pine- 
apple; cover these with vanilla syrup, and serve a sauce-boat of pineapple sauce as for Roman 
triumvirate fritters (No. 3050). 





SWEET ENTREMETS—COLD (Entremets de Douceur—Froids), 





(8125), GLAZED APPLES (Pommes Glacées), 
Choose a few small, even-sized apples; empty the centers with a column tube five-eighths 
of an inch in diameter, peel and cook them in slightly sweetened acidulated water. In order to 
have them remain whole it is advisable to took scarcely boiling, and to keep them covered. 





Fie. 586. 


When cold drain and 


Drain and place them in a vessel, pouring a little syrup over; leave to cool. ' 
No. 3675) so that it 


cover them several times with a brush dipped in lukewarm apricot marmalade ( 
adheres to the apples, and cover them completely; decorate around the tops with a circle of smalh 
dots of angelica. Fill the hole in the center with candied cherries or fruit jelly, such as quince,, 
currant or apple, or use all mingled together; arrange the apples in a pyramid on a dish. 


908 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3126), GLAZED MARMALADE OF APPLES (Marmelade de Pommes Glacée), 

Cut a few good russet apples in four, peel and put them into a saucepan with a little water; 
dissolve on a slow fire while covered, then pass through a sieve; return the purée to the saucepan 
with two-thirds as much powdered sugar and a tied bunch of lemon peel. Set the saucepan on the 
fire and let the marmalade reduce while stirring unceasingly with a spoon. When perfect remove 
the lemon peel, and after it is nearly cold pour it into a dish, smooth it dome-shaped with a knife 
and sprinkle fine sugar over the top; glaze this with a skewer heated in the fire, cool off and 
surround the base with triangles of biscuit, placing a flat rosette of the same on the summit of the 


apples. 


(3127), FROTHY PUREE OF APPLES (Purée de Pommes Mousseuse), 

Peel six fine apples, cut them up small and cook in a covered saucepan, keeping them very 
white and adding four spoonfuls of water, a bit of lemon peel and two cloves. When melted press 
them through a fine sieve, then add seven or eight dissolved gelatine leaves, the juice of four or five 
lemons and eight or ten ounces of powdered sugar; beat the preparation well on ice with a whip 
until it whitens and becomes quite frothy, then add a salpicon of candied fruits, and pour this into 
a mold inecrusted in chopped ice. One hour later dip the mold in hot water, unmold the contents 
on a cold dish and pour over a cold apple syrup flavored with lemon peel. 

Apple Syrup.—This syrup is made with the liquid in which apples have been cooked and half 
its weight of sugar added; flavor with lemon or orange peel, boil until it attains the consistency 
of light jelly, then strain and cool. It is now ready to be used. 


(3128), BUCKET OF WAFFLES WITH CREAM (Baquet de Gaufres 4 la Créme), 

Prepare a waffle preparation the same as for the timbale of wafers (No. 3222); spread it in a 
Jayer on a waxed baking sheet, having it about one-sixteénth of an inch in thickness, «nd bake it 
partly, then remove from the oven and cut from it twenty-five uprights, each three-quarters of an 
inch wide and four inches long, and two others an inch and a half wide by five anda quarter inches 
long; bore a hole with a thin tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter through these two, and also 
cut a round bottom piece six inches in diameter. As soon as all these are cut return the 
sheet to the oven to finish baking the waffles; when of a fine color remove and leave to get 
thoroughly cold on a marble. Have a timbale mold six inches in diameter; lay the round piece on 
the bottom and arrange the high pieces against the sides, having the two longest and bored ones 
exactly opposite to each other, fastening them all on with cooked sugar. When cold unmold the 
bucket and encircle it with two bands of almond paste (No. 125) in imitation of hoops, having one 
slightly above the bottom and the other a short distance from the top; slip the bucket on a dish and 
when ready to serve fill it full of whipped cream flavored with vanilla. 


(3129), BASKET OF NOUGAT WITH CREAM (Oorbeille en Nougat & la Créme), 

To prepare this dessert it requires a basket mold that opens in two or three parts; oil it over 
with a brush. Peel half a pound of almonds, wipe dry and mince them crossways; dry.in a slack 
heater for twenty-four hours. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar in a copper pan with the juice of 
two lemons; stand it on a slow fire, stir with a wooden spoon till melted and of a nice yellow tint, 





then mix in the very hot almonds; take from the fire when the almonds and sugar form one 
mass. Put a part of this on an oiled baking sheet, roll it out thin with the blade of a knife, and 
then apply it to the inside surfaces of the basket mold; close and clip off all the nougat extending 
beyond the edges, and when very cold unmold and trim it with the nougat rings to serve as 
handles. Fill it with whipped cream flavored with vanilla, haying fresh strawberries mingled in; 
stick here and there small pieces of angelica and dress the basket on a folded napkin. 





SWEET .ENTREMETS. 90% 


(3130), BASKETS OF ORANGES WITH JELLY (Paniers d’Oranges & la Gelée), 


Select twelve even-sized oranges, cut them into basket shapes, leaving a handle on the center; 
empty them with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and around them make a small border, scoring the peel 
with a knife or small punch made for this purpose (see Andalusian Sherbet, No. 2321); plunge these. 
into boiling water for a minute; remove at once and throw them into cold water to refresh, then 
suppress all the inside white skin so that the jelly cannot acquire any of its bitterness. Stand them 
upright on a baking sheet covered with chopped ice and as soon as cold fill them with orange jelly 
(No. 3180), but slightly thickened and colored with a little carmine; put the sheet and its contents 
into the ice-box so that the jelly stiffens thoroughly. Dress on a folded napkin or on a stand and, 
trim the handles with variegated ribbons. 


- (8131), CHOCOLATE BAVAROIS Hagaiors au Chocolat), 


Make an English cream with a pint of milk, four egg-yolks, four ounces of sugar, and half a 
vanilla bean, proceeding the same as for No. 3135; as soon as finished pour it slowly over two. 
ounces of chocolate dissolved in a few spoonfuls of water, then add one ounce of gelatine melted in 
a little water. As soon as the chocolate and gelatine are both well dissolved strain the whole 
through a fine strainer into.a tin basin and set it on the ice, stirring constantly until:cold, and 
when it begins to, thicken take it. offiand incorporate three pints of whipped cream, having. it firm 
and well drained. Fill a jelly mold incrusted on ice with this preparation; let the bavarois harden. 
for two hours, and when serving dip the mold quickly into hot water and invert.on a cold dish. 


(3132), BAVAROIS IN SURPRISE (Bavarois en Surprise), 


Coat a jelly mold incrusted in pounded ice with maraschino jelly (No. 3186), and decorate the 
bottom and sides with white split almonds, then coat the mold once more with a thick layer of 
chocolate bavarois preparation (No. 3131); as soon as this is set fill the hollow center with a 
vanilla bavarois, into which has been mixed a few spoonfuls of freshly peeled and cut up pistachios. 
Lay around of paper over and cover with a deep lid filled with chopped ice; leave the bavarois to 
get thoroughly cold for an hour anda half. Just when ready to serve dip it speedily into hot 
water and turn it over on a cold dish. Surround the base with small Genoese cakes (No. 3307) 1ced 
with strawberry fondant (No. 3652) flavored with kirsch, and decorate with a rosette of halved. 
pistachios. 


(3183), BAVAROIS WITH MERINGUES (Bavarois aux Meringues). 


Prepare a vanilla bavarois, the same as for No. 3135; pour it into a dozen oval ballotine molds 
and set them in the ice-box to have their contents get quite hard. When ready to serve unmold 
the bavarois, and range them in a circle on a dish, keeping them a slight distance apart. On 
either side of each one place two small meringue shells (No. 116) well scooped out and very dry. 


- (3134), RASPBERRY BAVAROIS (Bavarois aux Framboises). 

“Put into a bowl ‘one pint of raspberry pulp strained through a tammy, dilute it’ with three 
or four gills of cold, thick syrup flavored with lemon and an equal quantity of clarified 
isinglass. Add to this preparation the strained. juice of two oranges. Put a small part 
on ice to judge of itssolidity (it must be rather. thick than otherwise), and when perfect pour it into 
a small untinned copper pan, and thicken, it on ice while stirring. As soon as it has acquired the 
consistency of a thick, smooth sauce, také it off.and add to it a pint and a half of firm and well- 
drained whipped cream. Use this preparation, to, fill either a, jelly mold (Fig. 149) or a plain cylin- 
drical mold incrusted in chopped ice; cover with a piece of paper and lay on a deep cover, filling it 
with more chopped ice, then leave to harden, for one hour. . Unmold on a cold dish after dipping the 
mold in hot water. Various bavaroises of different fruit pulps can be prepared the same way, such 
as pineapple, mandarins, currants, almonds and fresh nuts. The mold “may be coated on the 
inside with a light layer of oil of swéet almonds, thus avoiding the necessity of dipping it in hot. 
water. 


(3135), VANILLA BAVAROIS (Bavarois 4 la Vanille), 


Boil one pint of milk with half a split vanilla bean. Whip four egg-yolks well ina basin with six 
ounces of sugar, dilute them with the boiling milk, and pour the whole into a saucepan to stir over 
a moderate fire without letting it boil. Remove the cream from the fire as soon as it thickens, 
take out the vanilla, and add two gelatine leaves (one ounce) previously softened in cold water. 


910 : THE EPICUREAN. 


When this is melted pass the whole through a fine wire sieve into a tin basin and leave to cool on 
ice. As it begins to thicken mix in about three pints of cream, whipped and drained. Fill 
a jelly mold (Fig. 149) incrusted on ice with this, put on it a round of paper, and then let the 
bavarois harden for two hours. At the last moment dip the mold in hot water, and invert it on 
a cold dish. 

(3136). BAVAROIS WITH CHESTNUTS (Bavarois aux Marrons). 


Suppress the shells from one pound of good, fresh chestnuts; put them with some water into 
a saucepan and let cook on:a slow fire for two hours, being careful to replace the black liquid by 
clean boiling water. After the chestnuts are tender, drain, skin and pound them in a mortar with 
half a pint of syrup at twenty-five degrees, to reduce them to a fine paste, and press this paste 
through asieve into a tin basin. Put four egg-yolks into a bowl and beat them up with four 
ounces of sugar; dilute with a pint of boiling milk into which has been added half a vanilla bean; 
pour this into a saucepan and place it on the fire, beating it with a whip until it begins to thicken; 
then remove at once and add an ounce and ahalf of gelatine, softened in cold water; when this is 
dissolved, pass the preparation through a fine wire sieve and add it to the chestnuts in the basin, 
putting it on pounded ice and beating well till cold. As soonas it begins to thicken incorporate 
into ita quart anda half of firmly whipped and drained cream; then pour it into a channeled 
cylindrical mold (Fig. 148) incrusted in ice. Let it harden for an hour anda half. Just when 
serving dip the mold quickly into hot water and invert the cream on a cold dish, surrounding 
the base with fine glazed chestnuts. 


‘ (8137), CREAM BISCUIT—SMALL (Petits Biscuits 4 la Créme), 


Take some oval-shaped lady fingers and as many more shaped round like a bouchée; cover the 
edges with a thin layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); soak the oval ones lightly with maraschino 
and dress them in a circle on the outer edge of a deep dish; in the center of this place the round 
biscuits in intermingled layers after they have also been soaked in maraschino, and cover each one 
of these with a rather consistent English cream (No. 42) prepared with lemon peel and beaten for 
seven or eight minutes on ice, then mixed with a few spoonfuls of whipped cream. 


(3138), BLANO-MANGE A LA SMOLENSKA (Blanc-Manger a la Smolenska), 


Soften one ounce of gelatine in cold water and dissolve it in a gill of orange syrup; add to it a 
pint of filbert milk, made like almond milk (No. 4), substituting filberts for almonds, and strain 
into a tin basin. Let this preparation become cold on ice, and just as it begins to thicken incor- 
porate about three pints of well-whipped cream. Pour this into a dome-shaped mold, cover with 
a sheet of paper, close hermetically with a lid, and chill in lightly salted ice. One hour will suffice 
for this operation. Unmold on a cold dish and serve. 


- (8139), STRAWBERRY BLANO-MANGE (Blanc-Manger aux Fraises), 


Pound half a pound of freshly peeled almonds, a few at a time; dilute with a quart of cold 
milk and press the whole slowly through a napkin held by two persons, so as to extract 





all the liquid thoroughly; mix into this almond milk three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, 
some lemon peel or half asplit vanilla bean, and a quarter of an hour later put into the liquid 
fifteen clarified gelatine leaves. Strain and try a little on ice to judge of its strength. 
Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) on ice, coat it with clear jelly mixed with strawberry 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 911 


or orange juice and filtered through blotting paper. Stir on ice two-thirds of the blanc-mange to 
thicken it slightly, using a spoon, and as soon as perfect mix in a fine salpicon of candied pine- 
apple; pour this into the coated mold and leave it stand for one hour. Thicken the remainder of 
the preparation on ice, and with it fill five small timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), also incrusted 
on a thick bed of ice spread over the bottom of a deep sautoir. Three-quarters of an hour later 
empty out the centers of the small molds with a tin tube dipped in hot water; to remove these 
pieces it is only necessary to heat the bottom of the molds slightly; replace them on ice and fill 
the center with some of the same preparation mingled with strawberry juice (No. 3673); let this 
get hard. Unmold the small timbales and cut each one across in three parts. Dip the large mold 
quickly into hot water; invert on a cold dish and surround the base with the rings, then fill up the 
hollow with Chantilly cream (No. 50), flavored with almonds, having it dome-shaped. Surround 
this dome with a few large strawberries, each one cut in two and dressed flat to resemble a 
rosette. at the same time a bowlful of strawberry purée sweetened with syrup, having it 
very cold. 


(3140), CAROLINA BORDER WITH CHAMPAGNE (Bordure Caroline au Champagne). 


Make an apricot ‘‘ pain” preparation (No. 3194) a little thicker than usual, into which add the 
same quantity of rice cooked with cream and vanilla (No. 160), and a few spoonfuls of whipped 
cream (No. 50); pour it into a Savarin mold, incrusted in pounded ice. Beside this, prepare and 
mold a macédoine jelly with champagne the same as for No. 3179, having it in a dome the same diame- 
ter at the bottom as the hollow inthe Savarin mold; put this macédoine in the ice-box to stiffen. 
One moment before serving unmold the border on a cold dish and in the center place a pad of Gen- 
oese cake (No. 3239), reaching three-quarters to the top; into this unmold the champagne macé- 
doine and surround the base with a circle of crofitons made of ribboned jelly (No. 3184). 


(3141), CHATEAU FRAMBOISE (Chateau Framboisé). 


Fasten a round layer of office paste (No. 143) on a dish and on it place a charlotte mold half 
an inch narrower than the paste. Prepare a cream cake paste (No.132) with five ounces of butter, three 
gills of water, seven ounces of flour, a spoonful of sugar, lemon peel, a grainof salt and five eggs. Put 
this paste into a socket pocket (Fig. 179), and put it on a baking sheet in the shape of thin even 
eclairs as long as the mold is high; then bake them ina slack oven until dry, then allow to cool. 
After the cakes are detached from the sheet, keep them warm for a few moments. When cold, 
open and fill them with raspberry jam (No. 3695) pushed through a cornet, and glaze over with 
sugar cooked to ‘‘crack” (No. 171). As this becomes cold dip one end and one side into the same 
sugar so as to enable them to stand upright on the layer of office paste around the mold. When 
the sugar is cold lift out the mold and fill the inside of the case with a raspberry bavarois prepara- 
tion, the same as for No. 3134, thickened on ice, and lastly having a salpicon of candied pineapple 
added to it. 

(8142), CHARLOTTE BENGALIAN (Charlotte Bengalienne), 


Cook a flat of Genoese paste (No. 3239), having it about three-eighths of an inch thick; invert 
it on a sheet of paper, pare off the upper crust and divide it into two bands, each to be two and 
three-quarters inches wide; cut one of these bands into short uprights slightly inclined toward the 
right, having them half an inch wide, and the other band the same width, only inclined toward the 
left. Put a round piece of paper in the bottom of a charlotte mold, against its sides range a row 
of these uprights, inclining them according to their cut and alternating those with crusts with 
those without them. On this first row range a second the same way, only inclining the uprights 
in the opposite direction. Fill the charlotte with a banana ‘‘nain” preparation (No. 3195), and 
let harden in the ice-box for an hour and a half. Unmold the dessert on a dish, and just when 
ready to serve place a spun sugar ornament on top. 


(3143), CHARLOTTE OF COALVILLE APPLES (Charlotte de Pommes de Calville), 


Cut in four pieces eight or ten Calville apples; peel and cook them in a covered saucepan with a 
little water, very little sugar, a bit of lemon peel and half a vanilla bean. When done and all the 
moisture is evaporated, press them through a sieve. Cover the bottom of a charlotte mold with 
lady finger biscuits, or else butter biscuit for charlotte, cooked on a baking sheet covered with 
paper, three-eighths of an inch thick and cut up into long triangles, and form them into a rosette 
without any open space whatever between the pieces. From the same biscuits cut some even 
upright pieces three inches wide and the same height as the mold, which should be kept on ice. 
Pour the apple pulp into a round-bottomed pan and dilute with a gill of syrup mingled with a sheet 


912 THE EPICUREAN. 


and a halfof gelatine that has been softened and dissolved. Stir the preparation on ice to thicken, 
and as soon as it begins to set pour in quickly two or three spoonfuls of good rum and then 
a quart of whipped cream. Two minutes after turn this into the charlotte mold. and sur- — 
round it with chopped ice, leaving it thus for one hour, and when needed unmold the charlotte on 


a folded napkin. 
(3144), CHARLOTTE A LA METTERNICH (Charlotte & la Metternich) 


Prepare a paste made by beating three whole eggs in a basin, and when creamy add halt & 
pound of sugar, as much sifted flour, a pinch of fecula and some orange sugar (No. 3165). The 
paste should be quite firm. Then force it through a pocket on a buttered and floured baking sheet, 
having the pieces resemble lady fingers all of the same size, and bake in a moderate oven. Detach 
them from the sheet and cut one end off of about forty and leave till cold leaning against a 
support, so as to have them slightly bent on the uncut ends. Dip the cut end of each biscuit into 
sugar cooked to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171), drain it off and fasten the cakes upright against the 
thickness of a round flat, of office paste; fasten each, piece with cooked sugar, overlapping them 
slightly so that they form a pretty basket spread. out open on the top. When the sugar is quite cold 
dress the basket.on a dish and fill it with chestnut purée sweetened with vanilla sugar (No. 3165) 
and then mingled with whipped cream. Surround the base with candied chestnuts dipped in sugar 
cooked to ‘‘ small crack.” ae oie | 

| (3145), CHARLOTTE RUSSE (Charlotte Russe), 

Lay a round sheet of white paper at the bottom of a charlotte mold and line it all around with 
well-pared lady fingers (No. 3377). Boil a pint of milk with half a split vanilla bean; beat up in a 
vessel six egg-yolks with six ounces of sugar and dilute the preparation with the boiling milk; 
pour it at once into the saucepan and thicken over a moderate fire without letting it come to a 
boil. Then take out the vanilla and add two leaves of gelatine softened in cold water then melted 
in a gill of boiling water. Run the whole through a fine Chinese strainer into a vessel and leave 
to cool until it begins to thicken slightly. Then mix with it the volume of three pints of whipped 
cream and pouring it at once into the charlotte mold cover with another round of paper and place 
the mold on ice for an hour and a half. When ready to use invert the charlotte on a cold dish 
covered with a napkin, remove the upper paper and place on top a cover, made with the same paste 
as the lady fingers, cut the same dimension as the charlotte, icing it with a white vanilla icing 
(No. 102) and decorate with a handsome design of preserved fruits or with royal icing. 


(3146), CHARLOTTE WITH STRAWBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES (Charlotte aux Fraises ou aux 
_ Framboises), 


Cut a few large lady fingers or charlotte biscuits (No. 3377) into long triangles so as to be able- 
to place them in the shape. of: a: rosette; in the, bottom of a, charlotte mold, pressing them down on 
their glazed side; cut out the center with a pastry cutter one and a quarter inches in diameter; 
replace this cut-out piece with around of biscuit cut with the same cutter; then cut off the ends. 
and sides of, a few of the same biscuits so as to stand them upright against the sides of the mold, 
pressing them, close to each other. Incrust the mold in. ice. Strain, first through a sieve and 
then throvgh a, tammy about two, pounds ; of strawberries or: raspberries; sweeten this pulp with 
some thick, syrup flavored with orange peel and mixed with about two gelatine leaves or clear 
melted calf’s foot jelly (No. 104); stir the preparation on ice and as soon. as it thickens incorporate 
into it slowly the volume of a pint, and a half of very firm, well-drained and slightly sweetened 
whipped cream. Fill up. the mold with this and let pordan for one hour.on ice. At the last. 
moment dip the mold into tepid water and invert the charlotte on a napkin. 


(3147), CHESTNUTS WITH CREAM (Marrons 4 la Créme), 


Shell a few dozen sound chestnuts; scald them in order to remove the inner skin, then cook 
them very slowly in milk containing a piece of vanilla bean. When done all the liquid 
ought to be evaporated. Rub them through a sieve to make a purée. Put this. purée into a 
saucepan with half its weight of sugar; work the paste on a slow fire until it becomes consistent 
and detaches from the saucepan; leave it till partly cold, then run a little of it at a time through 
a coarse sieve, pressing it down with a large spoon so that it falls like vermicelli; lift it up witha 
palette, dress it in a circle on the bottom of a dish and in the center build a pyramid of whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. 





SWEET ENTREMETS. | 9133 


(3148), CORNETS OF ORANGE CREAM (Cornets, Oublies, Plaisirs de Créme A l’Orange), 


Pound eight ounces of shelled and peeled almonds with eight ounces of sugar and four egg- 
whites. to obtain a fine paste; add to it two ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), two ounces of flour 
and eight lightly beaten egg-whites. Dress this paste on a waxed baking sheet, laying it with a table- 
spoonful into thin round wafers four inches in diameter, and bake them in a hot oven When of 
a fine golden color remove them from the oven and roll them around some tin cornet forms and 
leave tili cold. Dress in a pyramid on a dish covered with a napkin and fill each one with whipped. 
cream flavored with orange. 


(3149), CREAM BAIN-MARIE—MOLDED (Crame au Bain-Marie Moulée), 


Put into a bright copper pan two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, stir it on a slow fire until it 
becomes a fine yellow color, then pour it into the bottom of a low charlotte mold and let get cold. 
Break seven or eight eggs in a bowl with five or six yolks; beat them up for two minutes, then 
dilute with a quart of milk, adding ten ounces of powdered sugar and a little lemon peel. Ten 
minutes later strain it twice through a sieve. Butter the sides of the mold, pour the prepara- 
tion in, place it in a saucepan on a small trivet and pour hot water around to reach up to half 
the height of the mold, then bring to a boil; remove the saucepan to a slower fire, and cover it 
over; place some hot cinders on the saucepan lid and let poach for one hour at least without allow- 
ing the water to boil. Remove thesaucepan and let the cream get partly cold before taking it from 
the water, then unmold on a dish. 


(3150), MALAKOFF CREAM (Créme Malakoff), 


Have eighteen to twenty ounces of Genoese cake (No. 3239) or biscuit (No. 3231) cut into not 
too thick slices. Cut up some candied fruits, such as apricots, greengages and pineapple, in small 
dice, adding whole candied cherries. With seven or eight egg-yolks, a pint of milk and ten ounces 
of sugar prepare an English cream (No. 42); when thick and nearly cold mix with it four spoonfuls. 
of dissolved gelatine, strain and stir on ice to reduce it to the correct consistency (it must be very 
light); then mix with it five or six spoonfuls of whipped cream. Incrust a souffié pan (Fig. 182) on 
ice. Soak the sliced biscuit half with rum and the other half with kirsch or Curagoa; spread them 
in layers in the pan and pour the cream over; bestrew with the candied fruits, and repeat until 
the pan is entirely full and forms a dome on top; keep it on ice for half an hour. Cover the 
dome with a thin coat of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), then cover with sweetened and fiavored 
whipped cream; decorate with the same cream, and place the pan on a napkin to serve at once. 


(8151), OREAM OF RICE WITH ANGELICA (Oréme de Riz a |’Angélique). 


Pick and wash four ounces of good rice and cook it till tender (keeping the grains whole) with 
a pint and a half of milk into which has been added half a split vanilla bean; pour it at once into 
a basin. Put into another vessel six egg-yolks, stir in six ounces of powdered sugar, and dilute 
with half a pint of boiling milk; pour this into a saucepan to thicken over the fire, and then add 
two ounces of gelatine softened in cold water, and as soon as the gelatine is dissolved strain the 
whole over the rice and mix well without stirring the rice more than necessary. At the same time 
incorporate four ounces of angelica previously washed in hot water, cut in small three-sixteenths 
of an inch dice, and steeped in maraschino. Set the preparation on ice to get thoroughly cold, and 
as soon as it begins to thicken stir in as much whipped cream; pour the whole intoa plain cylindrical 
mold (Fig. 150), and keep it on ice for two hours. Unmold on a cold dish, and garnish around 


with lady bouchées (No. 3376). 


(3152), SPANISH CREAM (Oréme & |’Espagnole), 


Have eight egg-yolks in a vessel and mix in with them eight ounces of sugar; dilute with a 
quart of boiling milk, thicken on the fire, and remove at once to add to it two ounces of gelatine 
softened in cold water; leave it to cool off partly; now strain it into a tin basin, adding about half 
a pint of fine apricot marmalade (No. 3675), diluted with a gill of rum. Have this preparation 
thicken on ice, mixing in with it one pint of whipped cream, and then pour it immediately into a 
jelly mold incrusted on ice. Unmold the cream when ready, and surround the base with triangular 


cuts of sweet jelly (No. 106). 


914 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3153), TUTTI-FRUTTI CREAM (Créme Tutti-Frutti), 


Cut a fine salpicon of preserved fruits in three-sixteenths of an inch dice pieces, such as 
peaches, apricots, pears, almonds, a little angelica, and whole candied cherries (demi-sucre), if 
smail (if large cut in two). Sprinkle a little maraschino over, and leave to marinate for one hour. 
Have the volume of two quarts of whipped cream, add to it a gill of strawberry pulp, into which has 
been mixed a little melted gelatine, place it on ice and as soon as it begins to thicken add the 
fruits; stir them in very slowly, and pour the whole into a cylindrical timbale mold; cover it her- 
metically, cement the joints well with paste, and set it on lightly salted ice, leaving it to freeze 
for an hour and a half. When ready dip the mold quickly into hot water, and invert the cream 
on a cold dish; surround the base with a circle of brandied greengages and lozenges of angelica. 





(3154), OREAM WITH CHERRIES (Créme aux Cerises),. 


Drain on a sieve a quart of very firm whipped cream sweetened and flavored with 
lemon. Remove the stones from some large, black, sweet and sound cherries; stew them with 
powdered sugar, then leave till cold; drain their syrup into a panand let reduce until it becomes 
thick. Cover the bottom of a china dish with a layer of soft macaroons broken in pieces, spread 
the cherries over, and mask these with another ounce of macaroons; on this dress the cream in a 
dome; smooth and decorate through with the cornet, and serve the syrup separately. 


(3155), CREAM WITH LEMON PEEL IN POTS (Pots de Créme aux Zestes de Citron), 


Fill eight small cream pots, half with cream and half with raw milk. Beat up in a bowl eight 
whole eggs and six more yolks, add five ounces of powdered sugar, a bit of grated lemon peel and 
.a grain of salt; dilute slowly with thé cream and milk; strain the liquid twice through a sieve and 
with it fill a dozen cream pots; place them in a flat saucepan with hot water reaching to half their 
height, and heat the water until it reaches boiling point. Then immediately remove the saucepan 
to a very slow fire so that the water only simmers twenty-five to thirty minutes while covered. 
Leave them in this until the cream becomes nearly cold, having withdrawn it from the fire. Wipe 
off the pots and dress them ona dish. 


(3156). CROWN A LA CAMPER (Couronne & la Camper), 


Coat a border mold with maraschino jelly (No. 3186); fill it with a preparation the same as for 
“pain” of chestnut a la Béotie (No. 3196), and leave to get quitecold on ice. Unmold when very 
firm onan exceedingly cold dish; fill the center of the crown three-quarters full with Bar-le-due 
jelly and finish filling with whipped cream flavored with maraschino, having it slightly sweetened; 
arrange this in a dome and decorate it through the cornet with some of the same cream; place it 
in an ice-box for one hour, then serve. 


(3157), CROWN A LA CHOISEUL (Couronne a la Choiseul), 


Cook in a plain shallow and narrow border mold some almond biscuit, the same as for 
No. 8229. Unmold it on a small baking sheet and let get cold. Then cover over with apricot 
marmalade (No. 8675) and decorate it all around with fancy cuts of candied fruits. Incrust in 
pounded ice another border mold more fanciful and slightly wider than the one used for the biscuit; 
decorate the bottom of it with candied fruits and cover this with a layer of orange jelly (No. 3180). 
When hard slip the biscuit into this mold upside down, and fill the empty space between the mold 
and the biscuit with more of the cold jelly. One hour after dip the mold in hot water and wipe and 
invert the dessert on a cold dish; fill the center with a pyramid of quartered oranges pared to the 
pulp, the pith and seeds extracted and then macerated in sugar. Dress this pyramid in layers, 
nouring some thick orange peel syrup between each one. 


(3158), GROWN PRINTANIERE (Couronne Printaniére), 


Butter a large Savarin mold, line it with fine flawn paste (No. 185), and cut this off just level 
with the edge of the mold; cover over the inside with buttered paper and fill it up with cherry 
pips or dry rice to hold the paste in shape, and cook the crust to a fine color; empty it out as soon 
as done, unmold and brush over with beaten eggs, push it into a quick ovento attain a good golden 
color, then leave till cold. Make a fresh fruit macédoine composed of candied cherries (demi-sucre), 
strawberries and raspberries, quarters of well-pared oranges and a few red currants; besprinkle 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 915 


these fruits with powdered sugar, pour over some maraschino and let maceratefor one hour. One 
moment before serving cover the inside of the croustade with apricot jam, and filling it level with 
the top with the fruits mask them with currant jelly (No. 3670) and slip itona dish. Pile the 
center high with whipped cream and arrange around the crown a circle of handsome greengages 
and candied cherries (demi-sucre), then serve. 


(3159), CUSTARD IN A DISH (Créme au Lait Dans un Plat), 


Break four whole eggs in a tinned basin; add six ounces of powdered sugar; flavor either with 
vanilla, lemon or orange peel or else orange flower water or coffee, according to taste; whip into 
_ this one pint of boiling milk, into which has been infused the vanilla, lemon or orange peel or else 
coffee beans; strain all through a fine sieve, and with this preparation filla china pie dish (Fig. 183); 
putit into a sautoir with a little boiling water on the bottom, and let cook in a slow oven from 
forty to fifty minutes; as soon as the custard is firm take it from the sautoir and leave stand to 
cool. When serving, a bed of whipped cream may be placed on top, flavored the same as the 
custard, and decorate it through a cornet. 


(3160), CUSTARD OR BAIN-MARIE CREAM (Oréme au Bain-Marie), 


Break five whole eggs in a vessel, add three yolks, six ounces of sugar (powdered), grated 
Jemon and orange peel and a grain of salt. Dilute with two gills of milk and two gills of cream, 
beat up the preparation, strain it several times through a sieve, then pour it into a soufflé pan 
(Fig. 182) or simply into a china pie dish (Fig, 183). Stand this vessel in a pan containing boiling 
water and push it in a slack oven to bake. Take it out after forty-five or fifty minutes. As 
soon as the cream is firm take it out and leave cool. Just when ready to serve unmold it on a cold 
dish, and dress over the top some whipped cream flavored with lemon. 

Another way.—Have one pint of milk and one pint of raw cream, six eggs and eight yolks, 
half a pound of powdered sugar, one grain of salt and either some orange-flower water, zests 
or vanilla. Dilute with the milk and cream and strain through a sieve; put this preparation into 
a buttered mold in a saucepan with boiling water reaching to half its height; push it into a slack 
oven and when the cream is firm to the touch unmold it on a dish. 


43161), CUSTARD OR BAIN-MARIE CREAM WITH CARAMEL (Créme Bain-Marie au Caramel), 


Melt half a pound of sugar in a pan with the juice of a lemon; as soon as of a light golden 
color pour a third part of it into the bottom of a plain timbale mold and leave to cool. Break 
six whole eggs in a basin, add eight yolks and beat together with half a pound of sugar; dilute 
with a quart of good milk and a quarter of a gill of orange flower water or vanilla and strain this 
preparation two or three times through a colander, and pour it into the timbale mold, then poach 
the cream in a bain-marie in a slack oven for an hour and a quarter; remove and cool off in the 
bain-marie. When ready detach it from the mold with the blade of a small knife and turn it over 
on a cold dish; cover with a caramel syrup made with the remainder of the caramel. 


(3162), BAIN-MARIE CREAM WITH VIRGIN COFFEE (Créme Bain-Marie au Café Viergo), 


Torrefy half a pound of coffee and when done throw it into a saucepan containing a quart of 
boiling milk; close hermetically and leave to infuse for half an hour. Then pass the milk througa 
a fine sieve and add to it a gill of rich cream. Put eight yolks and six whole eggs into another 
vessel, beat them with half a pound of sugar and dilute with the infusion of coffee; strain this 
preparation two or three times through a wire sieve and then pour it intoa lightly buttered and 
sugared timbale mold. Bake the cream for an hour and a quarter in a bain-marie in a slack 
oven and as soon as done remove and leave it to cool in the water of the bain-marie. When ready 
to serve detach it all around with the blade of a small knife, invert it on a cold dish and pour 
over an English cream (No. 42) prepared with coffee. 


(3163), SNOW EGGS OR FLOATING ISLANDS (Gufs a la Neige). 

Prepare an English cream (No. 42) with six egg-yolks, seven ounces of sugar, a quart of milk, 
lemon peel and a grain of salt; strain it several times, then let get cold. Beat up five or six egg- 
whites to a very stiff froth and incorporate into them very delicately seven ounces of fine lemon- 
flavored sugar (No. 3165). Boil some water in a deep sautoir, remove it to one side, mold the 
beaten whites with a large spoon, as explained in No. 155, and let the preparation fall into the sau- 
toir, retaining the shape of the spoon; turn them over carefully. As soon as these whites become 


916 THE EHPICUREAN. 


hard remove them with a skimmer and drain on a cloth spread over a sieve; when cold take them 
up one by one to pare and dress in a pyramid on a cold dish; cover them lightly with some of the 
cold English cream, serving the remainder separately. 

These eggs can be poached in sweetened milk flavored with vanilla instead of water, using the 
milk to make the sauce by adding a few egg-yolks. 


(3164), SNOW EGGS MOLDED (Gufs a la Neige Moulés), 


Take a cylindrical moid having wide channels; butter it with clarified butter and glaze over 
with sugar. Beat up five or six egg-whites to a stiff snow with a grain of sait, adding slowly to it 
nalf a pound of powdered sugar, a part of it flavored with lemon peel. With this preparation fill 
the glazed mold and set in a saucepanful of boiling water to reach to half its height; poach in a 
slack oven until it becomes firm, and lastly unmold on a dish; cover the bottom of this with a 
little English cream flavored with lemon (No. 42) and serve more of it separately. 


(3165), TO FILTER FRUIT JUICES, TO FLAVOR SYRUPS WITH ZEST AND TO FLAVOR 
SUGAR WITH ZEST OR VANILLA (Pour Filtrer les Sucs de Fruits, Pour Parfumer 
les Sirops aux Zestes, Pour Parfumer le Sucre aux Zestes et & la Vanille), 


To Filter Fruit Juices.—Orange and lemon juices are those most frequently filtered, either 
through a filtering paper and a glass funnel, or through unsized paper, mashed up, washed and 
converted into a pulp, then spread in layers on a clean sieve. To filter raspberry and currant 
juices in large quantities use the felt straining bag, as represented for filtering jellies (Fig. 50). 

To Flavor Syrup with Zest.—-Infusions are made of lemon, orange, mandarin or Seville orange 
peel. First peel the fruits with a small kitchen knife, being careful not to cut off any of the white 
part, as this is always bitter. To flavor a syrup with these peels they need only to be macerated 
for twenty-five minutes in a little tepid water; add this infusion with the zest to some cold syrup; 
after remaining in the syrup twenty-five minutes strain through a fine sieve. 


To Flavor Sugar with Zest.—To flavor sugar with fruit peels, rub the fruits on a piece of loaf 
sugar, and at once grate off the colored damp parts of the sugar with a knife; put this on sheets of 
paper, and set it in the air to dry, then crush with a rolling pin and pass through a fine sieve. 


To Flavor Sugar with Vanilla.—Cut the vanilla beans into small pieces, pound them with 
the loaf sugar, using one pound of sugar for two ounces of vanilla; sift the sugar through a fine 
sieve and put it away in closed glass jars. 


(8166), FLAMRI OF APPLES (Flamri aux Pommes), 


For this dessert employ ten ounces of sugar, one glassful of water, eight to ten apples and a small 
tied bunch of lemon peel. Dissolve the sugar in the water and cook it to large ball (No. 171); add half ~ 
the apples peeled and minced, and boil the whole slowly for ten to twelve minutes, then put in the 
remainder of the peeled apples and the lemon peel. Stir around at frequent intervals, and when 
the sugar has again attained the same degree (the large ball), suppress the peel and pour the prep- 
aration into a dome-shaped mold dipped in cold water; keep this for twelve hours in a cool place. 
Unmold on a cold dish; stick on the top small fillets of almonds lightly roasted in the oven, and 
cover the bottom of the dish with either rum syrup or whipped cream. 


(8167), FLAMRI OF CREAM (Flamri 4 la Créme), 


Pour into a saucepan one quart of white wine and two glassfuls of water; add a bunch of 
aromatics and a grain of salt; let the liquid come to a beil, then incorporate into it eight ounces of ° 
good semolina; continue to cook for a quarter of an hour on the side of the range; when done 
sweeten with eight ounces of powdered sugar, add a piece of lemon peel and keep the preparation 
off the fire for ten minutes; let get cold, stirring from time to time. Incorporate slowly into this 
preparation about two glassfuls of good double cream, beating it vigorously on ice; pour it into a 
charlotte mold dipped in coid water and let get firm or ice for one hour. Unmold on a cold dish 
and serve with a sweetened purée of red fruits, either strawberries or raspberries. 


(3168), FLAMRI OF SEMOLINA (Flamri de Semoule), 
Boil two quarts of milk; incorporate slowly into it half a pound of semolina, so as to obtain a 
light preparation, then cook it while stirring for twelve to fifteen minutes; when creamy mix in @ 
pound of sugar and a pinch of salt; cook again for ten minutes, then take from the fire and quickly 








SWEET ENTREMETS. 917 


add six to seven beaten whites with a little sugar stirred in; work the preparation with a whip so 
that it combines well, and put it back on the fire, while stirring steadily. “Watch the preparation 
attentively so as to remove it at the first signs of a boil, then mix in an ounce of grated bitter 
almonds. Fill two or three molds to the top with this, having them simply dipped in cold water 
and still wet in the inside; let cool off for at least six hours in a very cold place, or in the ice-box, 
and unmold the contents on dishes; cover the bottoms with a sweetened raw raspberry pulp. 


(8169), APPLE FLAWN—LATTICED (Flan de Pommes Grillé), 


Prepare a flawn ring the same as for an apricot flawn (No. 3170); fill it with well-reduced apple 
marmalade (No. 3674) flavored with lemon peel. Roll out some parings of puff paste (No. 146) to a 
sixteenth of an inch in thickness; cut it into narrow strips or bands three-sixteenths of an inch wide. 
Dampen the edges of the flawn and lay over the strips, leaving a three-eighths of an inch space 
between each one; fasten well and cut away any surplus without stretching the paste. Moisten the 
first row of strips with a brush, arrange another row over slightly on the bias to form lozenges; 
fasten them also to the edge, having the whole form an uniform lattice work; egg twice and cook 
in a hot oven for one hour. After removing dust over with fine powdered sugar, and again put in 
the oven for a few minutes to glaze. 


(S170). APRICOT, PEACH, PLUM OR NECTARINE FLAWN (Flan d’Abricots, de Péches, de Prunes 
ou de Brugnons), 


With some flawn paste (No. 185) line a flawn ring in the following manner: Butter the ring, 
roll out the paste to an eighth of an inch in thickness, and lay it in the ring so that it has the same 











Fie. 589. Fie. 590. 





thickness throughout, pressing it against the sides to equalize it well. Cut off the paste a little 
above the height of the ring, and with this surface form a ridge, pinching it all around ontop and 
outside. Divide some apricots in two, peel and dress them ina circle, one overlapping the other, 
inside the flawn; place the cracked and peeled kernels here and there among the fruit, bestrew 
with fine sugar and cook in a moderate oven; remove, unmold and brush over with a consistent 
syrup flavored with kirsch, then serve. : 

The apricots may be replaced by peaches, plums or nectarines, proceeding exactly the same. 


(3171), OHERRY FLAWN (Flan aux Cerises), 


After lining the flawn ring the same as the apricot flawn (No. 3170), fill it with fine, ripe, sour 
cherries, first removing the pips and arranging them so that the holes caused by the removal of 
these pips lie underneath; dredge with sugar, bake in a moderate oven; when done cover with 
currant jelly (No. 3670) diluted in a little syrup. Take the pie from the ring, leave to cool, and 
when serving pour over more of the currant jelly diluted as before. 


(3172), FRUIT FLAWN (Flan de Fruits). 


Have a flawn ring lined with flawn paste (No. 135); raise the edges to form a ridge, pinching 
this evenly; prick the bottom, egg the ridge twice and line the inside with buttered aaa fill with 
very dry rice and cook in a moderate oven. Empty and cover the bottom with fine aOR ners 
lade (No. 3674) reduced with apricot; on top lay some white halved apples gig in = up tes 
properly drained, some white compoted halved pears, strawberries, cherries, grapes ” any ot Ve Be 
of fine green and red fruits; pour vanilla syrup over, and cover with apple jelly (No. 3668), ae 
previously poured it in a very thin layer on a plate the same size as the Ham a aaa it 
jelly from the plate press a sheet of paper of larger dimensions than the plate ov “ Py de ach i : 
jelly from the plate all around with the tip of a knife and lift the jelly by pride rer dss one side 
of the paper. Invert this on the pie, wet the paper and lift it off without the jelly.. 


918 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3173), GOOSEBERRY FLAWN (Flan aux Groseilles Vertes), 

Line some flawn rings the same as for apricot flawns (No. 3170); cut off with the tip ofa small 
knife all the stalks and stems of some gooseberries; arrange them inside the flawn, one beside the 
other, very close together; bestrew plentifully with powdered sugar and cook in a hotoven. As. 
soon as it is done remove, cool and cover with a layer of apple jelly (No. 3668) diluted in a little 
thick syrup. 





(3174). MERINGUE FLAWN (Flan Meringué). 


Line a flawn ring with flawn paste (No. 135); ‘raise the edges and leave to repose for half an, 
hour. Make a frangipane cream (No. 44), well flavored with vanilla; as soon as cold fill the pie 
with it as far as the top, then push it into a hot oven; remove when baked, cool and cover the top 
with a thin coating of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); cover it all with meringue (No. 140). Smooth 
this with a knife and decorate with some more of it pushed through a cornet; bestrew the entire: 
surface lightly with icing sugar, set it in a slack oven to color the meringue, then decorate through 
a cornet with currant jully (No. 3670) or apple jelly (No. 3668), placing it inside the decorations, 
representing round or oval rosettes. 


(3175), PEAR AND APPLE FLAWN (Flan aux Poires et aux Pommes). 


Line a flawn ring the same as for apricot flawn (No. 3170); fill the bottom halfway up ‘with fine- 
well-reduced apple marmalade (No. 3668); over lay peeled and cored pears or appies, cut either in 
four or in quarter-inch slices; range them the way they are cut into a rosette on the marmalade, 
bestrew with sugar and cook in a hot oven. When done thoroughly, remove, brush over with: 
apple (No. 3668) and currant jelly (No. 3670), half and half, diluted with a little syrup. 


(3176), GARNISHINGS FOR COLD DESSERTS (Garnitures Pour Entremets Froids), 


These are composed of compoted fruit, small cakes or frequently of cold crofitons made with blanc: 
mange, jelly or fruit ‘‘ pain” preparation. These crofitons are sometimes plain and sometimes. 
ribboned. To make them proceed as follows: Prepare some very clear jelly and pour it on a tin. 
sheet in an even layer three-quarters of an inch thick; place this perfectly straight in the ice-box. 
to have the jelly harden; when quite so, dip the sheet into very hot water, and turn the jelly over 
on a cloth. Triangle-shaped or cube-shaped croattons can be made by first dividing the jelly into long 
bands, then cutting the crotitons into any desired form. Should they be needed round or in crescents, 
then cut them with a pastry cutter or tin tube. To have them ribboned, pour first a layer of clear 
or whipped jelly on the sheet, and when hard pour a second one over, either of colored jelly tinted 
with carmine ora shaded ‘‘ pain” preparation; as soon as this is set turn it over on a cloth and cut 
the same as for the above. Pretty crofitons can also be made as follows: Have twelve No. 2 or 3. 
mousseline molds (Fig. 138); fill six of them with carmine-tinted jelly, and leave till very cold, 
then invert them ona cloth and cut perpendicularly in two even parts; lay each of these in one of the: 
twelve molds, and fill the empty space with blanc-mange preparation, and leave to harden. When, 
this is very firm empty out the center of the timbale with a tin tube, and fill the hollow space with, 
chocolate bavaroise (No. 8131); after the timbales become quite cold unmold and cut them perpen-. 
dicularly in two. When dressing put the rounded side of the timbale turned toward the entremets.. 


(8177), GOOSEBERRIES WITH CREAM (Groseilles Vertes & la Créme), 


Pick a few handfuls of still green but firm gooseberries; put them into a copper pan with two: 
spoonfuls of hot water and a handful of sugar; let dissolve while tossing, and then press through a. 
sieve; return the purée to the pan, sweeten and reduce to the consistency of a light marmalade, 
then pour it into a tart dish and leave till cold. Cover it with sweetened whipped cream flayored 
with lemon, smooth nicely, and decorate the surface with cream pushed through a cornet. The: 
cream can be mixed in with the purée if so desired. 


(8178), CALIFORNIAN PINEAPPLE JELLY (Gelée aux Ananas Oalifornienne), 


Pare neatly a ripe, medium-sized pineapple; split it in two lengthwise; remove the core and 
cut it into thin crosswise slices; arrange these in a dish and cover with a quart of thirty-degree- 
syrup and one gill of cognac; let macerate for two hours. Put into a tinned basin four ounces of 
gelatine with a quart of water, the juice of four lemons and six oranges, also the peel of half a. 
lemon and the same of an orange; clarify with six egg-whites, adding, just before the filtering: 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 919 


process, all of the syrup used for marinating the pineapple. As soon as the jelly is properly 
filtered pour it intoa vessel, cool partly on ice, and let fall on the top three pure gold leaves; mix. 
the jelly so that the gold separates and spreads. Incrust a jelly mold on pounded ice, pour into it. 
a layer of the gold mixed jelly and let it get hard; on this dress a crown of the prepared pineap- 
ples, drained and well wiped, and over pour a second layer of the jelly; when this is also hard. 
range another crown of pineapple, and continue until the mold is full. Set the jelly on ice for two: 
hours to stiffen thoroughly; unmold it on acold dish and surround the base with a circle of the 
slices of pineapple, one overlapping the other. 


(3179), MACEDOINE JELLY WITH CHAMPAGNE (Gelée Macédoine au Champagne), 


Prepare a macédoine of preserved or fresh fruits. They should be firm. Cut in three-eighths 
of an inch dice and steep in brandy. Besides this prepare two quarts of orange jelly (No. 3180) 
and pour it into a small bowl packed in ice; stir it continuously until almost cold, then add to it 
half a bottleful of champagne and continue to work it in until it attains the consistency of a 
thick syrup. Now put in the well-drained and wiped fruits. Keep.on turning until the jelly 
begins to solidify, then transfer it to a jelly mold that has been incrusted on pounded ice; lay more. 
of it over and leave for an hour and a half to set thoroughly. Unmold as for No. 3182. 


(3180), ORANGE JELLY IN CUPS (Gelée d’Orange en Tasses), 


Put four or five gills of sweet, clarified, liquid jelly (No. 106) into a bowl; when quite cold mix ir 
with it the juice of three or four oranges filtered through filtering paper spread on a sieve; add two 
or three drops of liquid clarified carmine and incrust the vessel in chopped ice. Stir the jelly with 
a spoon until it is half set, then mix in with it two or three spoonfuls of candied orange peel cut 
in very small dice; stir again for two minutes, and with a spoon fill up some very cold small cups;, 
keep these for twenty minutes on ice before serving. 


(3181), ROSE JELLY (Gelée & la Rose), 


Place a pan on the fire containing one pint of clear syrup at twenty-eight degrees; at the first: 
boil mix in with it two handfuls of fresh, highly perfumed rose leaves, and remove from the 
fire to let infuse a quarter of an hour while covered. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve and 
mix in with it a sufficient quantity of gelatine or clarified isinglass, adding also two gills of filtered 
orange and lemon juice, and four or five spoonfuls of good brandy. Taste the jelly, test its con- 
sistency on ice, in a small mold, and when perfect pour it into a jelly mold and let harden for one 
hour on ice, then unmold on a cold dish. 


; (8182). RUSSIAN JELLY (Gelée a la Russe), 


Make about a quart of unflavored jelly (No. 106); set it on ice to get thoroughly cold, add to» 
it as much champagne, beating continuously until the preparation has the appearance of a cream; 
as soon as it begins to acquire consistency pour it at once into a jelly mold (Fig. 154) previously in- 
erusted in slightly salted ice; set the cover on top, then cover over with salted ice. Let it freeze 
for half an hour, and when ready to serve dip the mold quickly in hot water, wipe it off, and in- 
vert the jelly on a cold dish. 


(3183), STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY JELLY (Gelée aux Fraises ou aux Framboises). 


Boil one quart of syrup to thirty degrees, pour it still boiling on a pound of good picked straw- 
berries or raspberries; two hours later strain this syrup through a jelly bag. Clarify and filter 
four ounces of gelatine in a quart of water with six beaten whites, let cool off partly, and add to it 
the strawberry or raspberry syrup, and a few drops of carmine. Incrust a jelly mold (Fig. 154) 
on chopped ice, fill it with the jelly, and put the cover on top; cover this with ice and leave the» 
jelly to set for two hours; when ready to use dip the mold into hot water and unmold the jelly 
on a cold dish. 


(3184), TUNISIAN JELLY, RIBBONED (Gelée Tunisienne Rubanée), 
Prepare about a quart of strawberry jelly, the same as for No. 3183, also a quart of Jemon 
jelly into which has been added a gill of kirsch; put this last into a tin basin and beat it on ice untill 
it becomes white. Incrust a cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) on ice; pour into its bottom a half-inch thick. 


920 TH io OU RSA 






layer of the white jelly and let get quite hard; then on it pour a layer of the strawberry jelly of 
the same thickness as the other, and leave it also to harden; on this pour another one of white 
jelly, and continue the same until the mold is completely full, and let the whole get thoroughly 
hard on ice. Unmold it at the last moment. 


(3185), VIOLET JELLY (Gelée aux Violettes), 


Put one pint of clear syrup into a newly tinned and clean saucepan; bring it to a boil, 
4hen remove and throw in a heaping handful of fresh violets, after suppressing their stalks; let 





infuse for half an hour with the cover on. Strain the liquid into a glazed vessel, and mix in with 
it three or four spoonfuls of clarified gelatine with some orange and lemon juice. Taste the jelly, 
to try its consistency, and then pour it into a mold incrusted in broken ice and let set for one hour 
and a half, and when ready to serve dress it on a cold dish. 


(3186). WINE AND LIQUOR JELLY (Gelée aux Vins et aux Liqueurs). ae 


All wine and liquor jellies are made the same way. Prepare a sweet gelatine or fish isinglass ~ 
jelly, the same as described in No. 106. As soon as this is clarified and filtered add the wine 
desired for flavoring the jelly, such as Madeira, Marsala, sherry, Malaga, port, etc., or any liquors 
such as kirsch, maraschino, noyau, Curagoa, ktimmel, etc., mixing the liquor well with the jelly, 
then pour into a mold previously incrusted on ice. Leave to harden on ice for an hour and a half 
to two hours. 


(3187), JELLY WITH FRUITS AND KIRSCH (Gelée aux Fruits et au Kirsch), 


Prepare about a quart of clarified gelatine with sugar, the filtered juice of four lemons, 
orange peels and the juice of two oranges. Try its consistency in a small mold on ice. Incrust an 
ornamental jelly mold (Fig. 149) or else a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) on ice. Prepare 
a macédoine of either fresh or candied fruits, having greengages, apricots, pineapples, cherries, 
small quartered and peeled oranges, small balls of white apples, cooked in white syrup, 
and small balls of pears cooked red and also some strawberries or raspberries, currants or grapes. 
Candied fruits should be washed in warm water, then carefully dried, while the fresh ones should 
remain in their natural state. Take as much of these fruits as are necessary to fill the mold, varying 
the different kinds; pour the jelly into a small tin basin, mix in with it a gill of kirsch and lay it on — 
ice, stirring it around with a clean tinned spoon until it commences to set, then put in the selected 
fruits, either cut up or whole. Take up this preparation with a silver soup ladle and pour it into 
the mold until it reaches the top, then cover Over with a round sheet of paper and close with a deep 
cover (Fig. 146) filled with pounded ice; keep it this way for three-quarters of an hour. At the last 
moment dip the mold in hot water, wipe dry and invert on a cold dish. For a change, or should 


the jelly appear weak, the mold can be frozen with a little salted ice, but only ten or twelve minutes 
previous to serving. 


(8188), MACARONADE (Macaronade), 


Prepare a small vanilla frangipane cream (No. 44), neither too sweet nor too light; add to it 
an equal amount of sweet jelly (No. 106); when cold add to it a few spoonfuls of candied pineapple 
cut in small dice and stir on ice with a spoon until it becomes quite stiff. Cut two dozen soft 
macaroons in halves, dip the pieces one by one in maraschino and range them at once on a dish, 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 921 


leaving them until they have entirely absorbed all the liquor. Pour into the bottom of a deep 
dish a layer of the prepared cream; on this set:a layer of the soaked macaroons: cover over with 
more cream and continue to alternate the cakes and cream until a high pyramid is formed, then 
smooth the surface and keep it for ten minutes on ice; cover the whole with a layer of well- 
whipped cream, drained thoroughly and flavored with vanilla, but only slightly sweetened; 
smooth the cream, decorate it through a cornet and serve at once. 


(8189), MARSHAL NEY (Maréchal Ney). 


Pound four ounces of peeled almonds with four ounces of powdered sugar and enough egg- 
white to have a fine paste; put this into a vessel and mix in two ounces of flour, two whole eggs and 
one stiffly beaten white. Push this preparation through a pocket provided with a three-eighths 
inch diameter socket on buttered sheets in two-inch lengths and bake them in a hot oven; remove 
and cool. Have four lightly oiled hexagonal tin rings ranging from five to eight inches in diameter 
and one and three-quarters inches high; cut the above marchpanes the same size as the sides of 
the hexagon; fasten these around the hexagonal rings with some sugar cooked to ‘‘small crack” 
(No. 171); unmold, stand one on top of the other, graduating the sizes, and fill the inside with alter- 
nate layers of vanilla bavarois (No. 3135), intercalated with small meringue shells made with fifteen 
egg-whites to one pound of sugar. On the top set one large meringue filled with Bavarian cream 
and coated with sugar cooked to ‘‘crack;” sprinkle over the sugar while hot some finely sliced 
pistachios. 


(3190). MOSAIC WITH CREAM (Mosaique a la Créme), 


‘Inerust an ogive-shaped mold (Fig. 151) in ice. In this place another mold half an inch less 
in diameter; fill the inside mold with chopped ice; pour some kirsch jelly between the two molds 
so as to fill the empty space entirely, and when this gets hard remove the ice from the inside mold, 
replacing it with warm water, so it can be'‘removed. Cut some Genoese cake (No. 3239) and can- 
died fruits into large uniform squares, add a few candied cherries and with this salpicon fill the 
empty space inthe jelly. Prepare an English vanilla cream (No. 42), cool it on ice and incorporate 
into it a pint and a half of whipped cream; pour this slowly over the salpicon in such a way 
that it falls through to the bottom, then set it away on ice for one hour; lastly, dip the mold 
quickly into hot water, wipe it dry and turn the jelly on a cold dish; serve it at once. 


(3191), MOSCOVITE OF STRAWBERRIES (Moscovite aux Fraises), 


Put one pint of clear gelatine jelly (No. 106) into a glazed vessel, having it only half as thick as 
usual but much sweeter. In another vessel have a pint of strawberry pulp; mixing with a grated 
slice of fresh pineapple, a small tied bunch of lemon or orange peel, a bit of vanilla, the juice of 
five or six oranges and half a pound of powdered sugar, let the whole macerate for a quarter of an 
hour, then strain and mix it in with the jelly. Pour this preparation into a large jelly mold fur- 
nished with a cover (Fig. 144), and let freeze for at least two hours ina pail with salted ice and 
saltpetre. At the last moment remove the paste from the mold, also the cover, and dip briskly in 
warm water; wipe and turn the jelly out on a cold dish, and surround it with a garnishing of 


small cakes. 


(3192), MOSSAGANEM (Mossaganem). 


Prepare alittle cream cake paste (No.132). Out some round pieces of white paper four inches 
in diameter, and butter the edges lightly; lay the paste in a socket pocket and push it to resemble 
crowns on the edges of these papers, then lay them on a baking sheet; egg over the paste and 
bake in a slack oven. After removing the crowns detach them from the papers and let cool off; 
open them all around at their base, and fill them with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) pushed through 
‘a cornet, then range them in the center of a cold dish on top of each other, alternating each layer 
with one of frangipane cream with vanilla (No. 44), to which pounded almonds and Base ee 
butter have been added. Cover the inside of the hollow formed by the crowns with a thin layer 
of whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla. With this same cream cover the entire 


922 THE EPICUREAN. 


outside of the cake, smooth the surface and decorate with more of the cream pushed through a 
cornet. At the last moment decorate the hollow with strawberries, sprinkled over with a little 
thick syrup and maraschino. 


(3193), ORNAMENTS FOR COLD DESSERTS (Ornements d’Entremets Froids), 


Uprights are generally used for cylindrical molds; they are made with a wooden base-plate, 
having a hole bored in the center to insert a column therein; this column must be higher than the 
mold and of proportionate thickness to the opening in the cylinder. It answers the purpose of sup- 
porting the dessert and all the ornamental pieces laid on top. These wooden supports are covered 
with gum paste and surrounded by a gum-paste edge. Cold dessert ornaments consist of hatelets, 
voluptes, tufts and aigrettes. 

Hatelets are silver-plated skewers a quarter of an inch wide and eight inches long, pointed on 
one end, and fancifully decorated on the other; these hatelets are garnished with rounds of 
different colored fruits and finished as explained in No. 2526, using sweet jelly (No. 106) instead of 
aspic jelly. They can be used to decorate cold entremets. When required for ornamenting large 
dessert cakes they are simply garnished with fine preserved fruits. 


Voluptes are scrolls of arabesque design made of cooked sugar poured in thin fillets on lightly 
oiled marble and then grouped together, standing upright in fours, sixes or eights, also cast in 
sugar. ; 


Tufts are made of spun sugar molded in the hand into the shape of a ball. These balls are at 
times laid directly on the dessert or else on voluptes of cooked sugar. 


Aigrettes are also made of spun sugar put together likea smallsheaf; this is cut off straight at 
a certain height, then molded into the shape of a cone; clip it off short, invert and fasten it on the 
dessert, either on top of a tuft or in the center of a volupte. Spun sugar is also used for making 
sultanas. 


(3194), “PAIN” OF APRICOTS (Pain d’Abricots), 


Soften two ounces of gelatine in cold water and dissolve it in a gill of almond milk (No. 4) and 
a gill of syrup at thirty-two degrees; pass it at once through a fine colander into a tinned basin. 
Place in another vessel a pint and a half of fine apricot purée sweetened and flavored with a little 
kirsch; pour this purée in with the gelatine, and standing it on ice stir steadily until cold. As sooa 
as it begins to thicken transfer it into a cylindrical jelly mold incrusted in chopped ice, keeping it 
thus for another hour and a half. When ready to serve unmold; surround the base with a circle of 
fine halved apricots covered with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) diluted with a little kirsch. 


(8195), “PAIN” OF BANANAS, HAVANESE (Pain de Bananes Havanaise), 


Peel eight very ripe bananas; crush the pulps and rub them through a fine sieve into a basin; 
add the juice of two oranges and one ounce and a half of gelatine dissolved in a gill of water, 
then pass the whole through a fine sieve; let it get thoroughly cold on ice and as soon as it 
begins to set incorporate into it the sume quantity of very firm whipped cream. Have prepared a 
quart of clear jelly (No. 106) flavored with rum, colored with carmine, and let cool to the consistency 
of-a thick syrup. Incrust a cylindrical jelly mold (Fig. 150) in ice, pour into the bottom a three- 
quarter of an inch thick layer of the banana preparation and leave it to harden; on this pour a layer 
of the same thickness of the rum jelly, leaving it also to harden, and over this pour another layer of 
the banana preparation, then another of the jelly, and so on until the mold is entirely filled, being 
careful that each layer is of equal thickness. Cover the top with a round piece of paper, then 
place on a lid with chopped ice over; leave stand for an hour and a half to two hours so that it is 
perfectly hard before unmolding. 


(3196), “PAIN” OF CHESTNUTS A LA BEOTIE (Pain de Marrons & la Béotie), 


Incrust in ice a flat, dome-shaped mold; decorate the inner sides with fanciful cuts of assorted 
candied fruits, dipping each piece in half-set jelly, then coating with a layer of rather firm blanc- 
mange (No. 3138), having it a third of an inch thick. Cover the mold with a lid with ice on top. 
Put into a vessel four gills of sweet chestnut purée (No. 3186), dilute it with four spoonfuls of 
maraschino and a few gills of thick vanilla syrup, beat the preparation on ice to thicken and as 





j 





SWEET ENTREMETS,. © 923 


soon as this occurs incorporate into it about four or five gills of good whipped cream; two minutes 
later add a small salpicon of candied pineapple and then pour the whole into the hollow of the 








mold; replace the lid, covering it at once with more ice, and after the lapse of an hour dip the 
mold quickly into hot water, wipe and turn the cream on a cold dish. 


(3197), PAINS” OF STRAWBERRIES WITH COREAM—SMALL (Petits Pains de Fraises & la 
Créme), 

Decorate the sides and bottom of a dozen timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137) that have been on ice. 
with fresh strawberries cut in two, being careful to dip each piece in half-set jelly before applying: 
it; then coat them with jelly, leaving an empty space in the center and fill this with a pureé 
of candied pineapple mingled with some jelly and two spoonfuls of kirsch. Incrust a dome- 





shaped or pyramidical mold on ice, fill it with a purée of strawberries, to which melted gelatine has 
been added; thicken on ice, and let it get quite hard. Fasten on a cold dish a bottom of Genoese 
cake (No.' 3239), slightly wider than the open part of thé mold; scoop it out lightly so as to 
permit the strawberry ‘‘ pain” to stand upright inside of it, then mask it over with apricot marma- 
lade (No. 3675). At the last moment unmold the pyramid on this and let it stand till quite cold, 
then cover quickly with a bavarois preparation (No. 3135) flavored with lemon peel and vanilla 
and thickened on ice when needed. Unmold the small ‘‘ pains” and dress them at once around 
the cream. 


($198), PEACHES A LA LOUVOISIENNE (Péches 2 la Louvoisienne), 


Fill a border mold (Fig. 189) with raspberry jelly (No. 3183) tinted with a little carmine, having 
it rather firmer than usual. After the jelly is well set unmold the border on a cold dish and place 
a pad of biscuit three-quarters of an inch thick in the center. On this dressa dome of fine halved 
peaches and cover these with a layer of cold cream rice with vanilla (No. 160). Dress a circle of 
greengages around the rice and decorate the top with quartered peaches, some cherries (demi-sucre), 
and lozenges of angelica; surround the base with a row of crofitons made of blanc-mange (Ne. 
3138) and red jelly alternated, each being a quarter of an inch thick. 


- (8199), APPLE PIE (Tarte aux Pommes), 


Butter a tin plate and lay on ita flat of short paste (No. 135) an eighth of an inch thick; 
dampen the edges lightly and lay all around a band of puff paste three-sixteenths of an inch thick 
and three-quarters of an inch wide. Cut four medium apples in four; peel, suppress the cores and 


924 THE BEPICURBAN: 


pips and mince them up; put them in a vessel, adding two spoonfuls of apple marmalade (No. 
3674), three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a pinch of ground cinnamon; stir all together and pour 
them into the plate, dressing the apples ina dome form; wet the edges of the pie and cover over 
with a flat of puff paste (No. 146) an eighth of an inch thick and of the same diameter as the pie. 
Fasten both pastes together, cut away all the surplus and pinch the edges all around; egg 
over and trace a rosette on top with a small kitchen knife, then bake in a hot oven for three-quar- 
ters of an hour to one hour or even an hour and a quarter, according to the thickness of the 
apples and the heat of the oven. 


(8200). COCOANUT PIE (Tarte & la Noix de Coco), 


Take a deep tin pie plate and line it with foundation paste (No. 185); raise up the edges, pinch 
all around and leave stand for twenty minutes in a cool piace. Put in a vessel four whole eggs, 
four ounces of sugar and the peel of one lemon; stir well together. Increase the quantity of this 
mixture with a pint of milk and strain through a fine strainer; spread on the bottom of the pie 
crust a layer of grated cocoanut and fill half full with the above preparation; push the pie cau- 
tiously into the oven, not to upset any of the liquid, keeping it very plumb, and when in the oven 
finish filling with more of the preparation, using a dipper for this purpose. Cook forty to fifty 
minutes. 


(3201), CREAM PIE (Tarte & la Créme), 


Linea tin pie plate with foundation paste (No. 135); raise up and pinch the edges; leave rest in 
acool place, then cover the inside surface with buttered paper and fill with dry cherry pips or raw 
rice; partly cook the crust and empty out at once. Pour in a vessel four ounces of sugar, two and 
a half ounces of flour and three eggs; beat thoroughly, dilute with a pint of boiling milk, having a 
vanilla stick infused therein; transfer this preparation to a saucepan, thicken it over the fire and 
as soon as it begins to acquire consistency pour it into the crust and push into a slack oven to finish. 
cooking. 


(8202), LEMON CUSTARD PIE, VENETIAN STYLE (Tarte de Venise & la Oréme au Citron), 


Line a deep tin pie plate with foundation paste (No. 135), operating the same as for cocoanut 
pie, and let it set. Put three whole eggs and three separate yolks into a vessel, stir in three ounces 
of powdered sugar and an ounce of lemon sugar; dilute with a pint of milk and strain the whole 
through a fine strainer. Fill the pie crust three-quarters full with this, push carefully into the 
oven and finish filling with a dipper. Cook from forty to fifty minutes. 


(3203), PUMPKIN PIE (Tarte aux Courges), 


Cut one pound of very ripe pumpkin intoslices; suppress the seeds and peel; cut it up into dice 
and put these pieces in a saucepan with some water to cook over a brisk fire; then drain and press 
the pulp through a sieve. Pour this into a vessel, add to it four eggs, a pinch of ginger, a pinch of 
cinnamon, a small pinch of nutmeg, one ounce of melted butter, a half pint of milk, and one quarter 
of a pound of sugar; stir well. Use this preparation for filling three-quarters full a pie plate lined the 
same as for a cocoanut pie (No. 3200); push it carefully into a hot oven and finish filling with a dipper. 
Cook forty to fifty minutes. 


(3204), RHUBARB PIE AND RHUBARB WITH CREAM (Tarte & la Rhubarbe et Rhubarbe a la 
Créme), 


Take very ripe rhubarb, suppress the leaves, peel and cut into pieces one inch long; arrange 
them in layers with sugar between each on a tin pie plate lined with short paste (No. 185), so as to 
form a dome. Moisten the edges of the paste on the plate and cover the whole with a flat of puff 
paste (No. 146) the same diameter as the plate, fastening it firmly to the moistened under edge, then 
pare off all the paste beyond the border, gash it all around with a small knife, egg the surface and 
trace a rosette on top with the tip of a knife. Bake in a hot oven for forty-five minutes. 


Rhubarb uth Cream.—Choose some very green rhubarb, suppress the leaves and hard parts 
near the roots, peel and cut in half-inch squares. Put one pound of this prepared rhubarb in a 
copper pan with a little water, a small piece of cinnamon and a sliced lemon. Put the pan on the 





SWEET ENTREMETS. 925 


fire, and when sufficiently cooked sweeten it according to taste. Remove from the fire, allow to 
cool slightly, and add a tablespoonful of cornstarch or fecula, diluted in a little cold water: put 
back on the fire to thicken it, take out the slices of lemon and the cinnamon. Pour the rhubarb. 
in mousseline molds (No. 1, Fig. 138), allow to cool and unmold: or it may be served in a dish. 
Serve separately some sweet cream or else incorporate into it an equal quantity of whipped cream. 


(8205), BOISSY PUDDING (Pouding Boissy), 


Dilute four ounces of corn starch in a bowl with three gills of cold milk; on this pour a quart 
of boiling milk sweetened with six ounces of sugar; turn the whole into a saucepan and set it on 
the fire to stir until well thickened; take it off and incorporate into it quickly one gill of kirsch, 
the grated peel of a lemon, asalpicon of preserved fruits cut in dice, such as pears, pineapple, green 
almonds, and cherries cut in two, besides a few seeded Malaga raisins and six stiffly beaten fresh 
egg-whites. As soon as the preparation is sufficiently mixed pour it into a plain timbale mold 
oiled over with sweet almond oil, and leave it to harden in the ice-box for an hour and a half. 
When prepared to serve invert the pudding ona cold dish; cover with raspberry sauce (No. 3217), 
serving more of it apart. 


(3206), CASTELLANE PUDDING (Pouding Castellane)., 


Prepare a fine purée of chestnuts, the same as for bavarois with chestnuts (No. 3136); also 
prepare an English vanilla cream (No. 42), with eight egg-yolks, a quart of milk, four ounces of 
sugar and half a split vanilla bean. As soon as the cream is done stir into it the purée of chest- 
nuts, also two ounces of dissolved gelatine; pass the whole through a fine wire sieve into a vessel 
and place it on the ice to get cold, working it well until it begins to stiffen. Prepare a salpicon 
of chestnuts and candied pineapple cut in three-sixteenths inch dice, cherries (demi-sucre) cut in 
four, and macaroons also cut in four; pour a little maraschino over. Incrust a timbale mold on ice, 
pour into ita layer of the preparation, then the fruits and continue to alternate until the mold is full. 
Just when ready to serve dip the mold quickly into hot water and invert the pudding on a cold dish 
and pour over a syrup made of chestnuts with vanilla flavoring, into which has been added a few 
chestnuts cut in dice. Serve some of this syrup apart. 


(3207), HARRISON PUDDING (Pouding 4 la Harrison). 


Have some half-set sweet jelly (No. 106) and with a camel’s hair brush wet the bottom and 
sides of a plain and very cold cylindrical mold (Fig. 150); bestrew the inside with peeled and 
chopped pistachios, pressing them so that they form a compact layer, then turn the mold on ice 
for two or three minutes; incrust it upright. Put into asmall basin about three-quarters of a pound 
of blanc-mange preparation (No. 3138) of a proper consistency and flavored with orange peel; stir 
it on ice to harden, then incorporate slowly into it a pint and a half of whipped cream but slightly 
sweetened. Two minutes after fill up the cold mold with this in layers intermingled with macaroons. 
soaked in kirsch; freeze the mold for one hour longer in unsalted ice, then dip it in hot water and 
unmold the contents on a very cold dish. é‘ 


(3208), LAFAYETTE PUDDING (Pouding Lafayette), 


Prepare a little meringue preparation (No. 140) with six egg-whites; divide it in two and flavor 
one of them with orange, having it slightly colored with a little carmine, and the other flavored 
with vanilla. Distribute these two preparations into small parts the size of a pigeon’s egg, and 
poach them in milk the same as snow eggs (No. 3163); drain them at once on a cloth. Have a 
cupola-shaped mold incrusted in ice, pour into the bottom an English cream (No. 42) flavored with 
rum and mixed with a little gelatine, adding to it a few spoonfuls of whipped cream; let it get 
hard, then dress on it a layer of the poached eggs, alternating the two colors, and strew over some 
shredded pistachios; pour another layer of cream on top, then more eggs and pistachios, and so on 
until the mold is entirely full. Let the pudding harden in the ice-box for two hours; serve with a 
bowl of sweetened strawberry pulp flavored with maraschino, 


(3209), MINISTERIAL PUDDING (Pouding Ministériel), 


Wash in hot water one pound of cherries (demi-sucre) and lay them to marinate for one hour 
in a light syrup well flavored with kirsch. Make a bavarois preparation with vanilla (No. 3135), 
only using a little less whipped cream than usual; add to it a few tablespoonfuls of kirsch. Have 
a cylindrical timbale mold incrusted in ice; pour a layer of the preparation into the bottom, and 


926 . | ISR eC Ce aN 


‘on this scatter some of the cherries; when hard pour in another layer and more cherries, con- 
tinuing the process until the mold is full. Then cover it with a round sheet of paper and a lid 
covered with ice, and leave till entirely hard. At the last moment unmold the pudding and sur- 
round the base with a circle of fine cherries (demi-sucre) previously marinated in kirsch. Serve 
a sauce-boat of whipped cream with vanilla and kirsch at the same time as the pudding. 


(8210), RENAISSANCE PUDDING (Pouding Renaissance), 


Put ten egg-yolks into a vessel, beat them well with half a pound of sugar, and dilute with a 
quart of boiling milk, into which a split vanilla bean has been infused; stir well, and thicken on 
the fire. As soon as the preparation is done remove from the range, suppress the vanilla, and add 
three gelatine leaves softened in cold water; beat it from time to time until the gelatine is entirely 
dissolved, and then pass the preparation through a fine strainer into a vessel and leave to cool 
slightly. Have prepared a preserved fruit macédoine cut in small dice, such as apricots, pears, 
plums, pineapple and cherries (demi-sucre), and pour some maraschino over. Also prepare a few 
chestnuts cut in quarters, and steep themin maraschino. Put a timbale mold onchopped ice, place 
in it a layer of the preparation and leave it to set. Then scatter the fruits and chestnuts on it; 
also some lady fingers soaked in maraschino; over these pour another layer of the preparation, 
and continue in this manner until the mold is full. Leave it on ice for an hour and a half, and 
just when ready to serve dip it hastily in hot water, and invert the pudding on a cold dish; pour 
a cold English vanilla cream sauce (No. 42) over, serving some of it separately. 


(3211), VALOIS PUDDING (Pouding & la Valois), . 


Make a Neapolitan cake paste (No. 3250), and roll it out with a rolling pin to the thickness of 
an eighth of an inch; cut from this sixty rounds, each an inch in diameter; lay them on a baking 
sheet and cook in a brisk oven. Also have prepared at the same time a salpicon of preserved 
fruits composed of greengages, dates and pineapple, the whole cut in dice, and some cherries (demi- 
ssucre). Prepare also an English cream (No. 42) with twelve egg-yolks, twelve ounces of sugar, a 
pint of cream and a pint of milk. As soon as finished add to it three gelatine leaves previously 
‘softened in cold water and stir the preparation until the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved. Then add 
to it six ounces of roasted hazel-nuts pounded with a gill of milk; pass the whole through a fine 
sieve into a tinned basin, and leave it on ice to cool partly. Incrust a timbale mold in chopped 
ice, pour on the bottom a layer of the preparation, leave it to set, and on it scatter the fruits; over 
this pour another layer of the cream, then on top arrange a bed of the round cakes, afterward more 
cream, and then more fruits, continuing the process until the mold is entirely full. Leave the pud- 
ding on ice for an hour and a half. Serve with a cold English vanilla cream sauce (No. 42). 


(3212), PYRAMID OF MERINGUES (Buisson de Meringues), 


Meringues make a delicious dessert. They should be small but of even size and specially of a 
beautiful golden color; besides*they must be exceedingly dry. Select about twenty of the prettiest 
cold shells; use a small spoon to fill them with good whipped cream (No.:50) sweetened with vanilla 
sugar (No. 3165); fasten these shells, two by two together, and keep them: for two hours in a cool 
place before dressing them in a pyramid on a napkin. 


(8213), RICE MIRABEAU (Riz & la Mirabeau), 


Boil three-quarters of a pound of rice in water acidulated with the juice of a few lemons, keep- 
ing the grains whole, then drain and macerate in a maraschino syrup. Prepare a fine salpicon of 
preserved fruits cut in dice, having pineapple, apricot, pears and citron cut up very fine, cherries 
divided in two and shredded pistachios; on these pour four tablespoonfuls of maraschino, four of 
brandy, four of Curacgoa, and four of almond milk (No. 4); leave the whole to steep for one hour; 
throw over two ounces of gelatine that has been dissolved in a little water. As soon as this prepa- 
ration begins to thicken stir the rice into it and transfer the whole toa plain timbale mold, and let 
harden in the ice-box for two hours. When ready to serve unmold on a cold dish, and cover with 
a raspberry sauce (No. 3217). 








SWEET ENTREMETS. 927 


(3214), RICE WITH APRICOTS (Riz aux Abricots), 


Blanch half a pound of rice; cook it till tender in milk with vanilla and when cooked remove 


it from the fire, sweeten it, add raw cream and fresh butter and pour it into another saucepan to let 
get cold, stirring from time to time. Place the preparation on ice and incorporate slowly into it 
one pint of whipped cream. When well stirred in dress it in layers in a soufflé pan (Fig. 182) in- 
crusted in ice, covering each layer with one of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); smooth it dome- 
shaped and decorate the summit with candied pineapple cut in pieces. 


(3215), RICE WITH CREAM AND RASPBERRIES (Riz & la Créme Framboisé), 


Cook about a pound of rice with cream, not having it too sweet, and finish with two gills of 
almond milk (No. 4). When cold set it into a small thin tin vessel and incorporate slowly about 
two gills of syrup, flavored with lemon peel and mingled with half as much calf’s foot jelly, 
sweetened and clarified (No. 104). Incrust a dome-shaped mold wider than its height in lightly 
salted pounded ice and put in a one-inch layer of thick clear jelly with raspberry juice at the bot- 





ee 5 6s 
Fic. 594. 
tom, and let it settle; as soon as it is hard lay another tin mold of the same shape, but narrower, 
on top of it, filling it up with pounded ice; pour a little of the same warm jelly between the 
two molds to fill up the entire vacancy and let it harden. Then remove the ice from the smaller 
mold and replace it by warm water so that it can be easily removed. Fill the center of the moid 
at once with the rice cream preparation (No. 160) thickened on ice and mixed with two spoonfuls of 
whipped cream and a salpicon composed of shredded pistachios, candied pineapple and. half- 
Sweetened cherries; cover the preparation with a layer of jellyand close the mold witha deep 
cover, on which lay pounded ice. Keep it for forty minutes longer on ice and finally remove the 
mold, wash it quickly in warm water and invert its contents on a cold dish. Fasten on the sum- 


‘mit an almond paste ornament fixed on by a hatelet garnished with fruits. 


(3216), RICE WITH STRAWBERRIES (Riz aux Fraises), 


Wash half a pound of Carolina rice; put it into a saucepan with two quarts of water and the juice 
of two lemons; cook till tender, keeping the grains whole, and when done drain on a sieve, pour it 
into a vessel and cover with a hot syrup of twenty-eight degrees, adding some orange and lemon 
peel; leave till cold. At the last moment lift up the rice with a skimmer and dress it in a deep 
dish in layers alternated with small fresh strawberries. Pour a thick syrup over the whole. 


(3217), SAUCES FOR COLD ENTREMETS (Sauces Pour Entremets Froids), 


The sauces for cold desserts are cold English cream (No. 42), flavored with vanilla, lemon or 
orange peel or with liquor. Sweetened whipped cream also flavored with vanilla, liquors or fresh 
fruit juices. Fine purées of fresh fruits sweetened with icing sugar; these can also be flavored 
with liquors. 


(3218), SUEDOISE OF APPLES AND PEARS (Suédoise de Pommes et de Poires), 
Peel as many large apples as pears and with a tin tube take from them small sticks an inch 
SY o& o Ay | i EY j gem 
and a quarter long by five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter; cook the apple sticks in a ele ar syrup 
and the pear ones in a syrup colored with carmine, being careful to keep them all rather firm; leave 


928 THE EPICUREAN. 


to cool off in their syrup and then drain and wipe. Coat a plain timbale mold with jelly, incrust it 
well in.ice, take up the pear and apple sticks one by one and dip them in half-set jelly, then 
arrange them against the sides of the mold; on the first row lay another and so on until the mold 
is completely lined. Then fill it with an apple ‘‘ pain” preparation, made as explained in No. 3194, 
substituting apples for apricots, and flavor with vanilla, incorporating into it a salpicon of pre- 
served fruits cut in dice, selecting for this purpose, pineapples, apricots, pears and cherries cut in 
two; let the Suédoise harden on ice for an hour and a half. When ready to serve dip the mold 
hastily in hot water, unmold on a cold dish and surround the base with small ribboned jelly crot- 
tons (No. 3198). . 


(3219), SURPRISE OF FRUITS, FROTHY SAUCE (Surprise aux Fruits, Sauce Mousseuse), 


Butter a charlotte mold and fill it three-quarters full with either baba paste (No. 129) or plain 
Savarin paste (No. 148); let it rise as high as the top in a mild temperature; bake the cake in a 
moderate oven and five minutes after it has been taken from. the oven pare the top off straight, 
then turn it over on a pastry grate and soak it with a syrup flavored with lemon and maraschino. 
When the cake is thoroughly cold return it to the mold and slice off the bottom so as to be able 
to empty it out, leaving only a thickness of five-eighths of an inch at the top and sides; fill this. 
hollow space with layers of small strawberries and pour over them a cooked Italian meringue (No. 
140) flavored with cold burned punch. Close the opening on the cake with the removed slice 
and invert it on a cold dish, covering it over with a frothy sauce prepared as follows: 

Frothy Sauce.—Pour into a tin basin three gills of English cream flavored either with vanilla 
or lemon (No. 42), having it slightly consistent and cold; beat it up vigorously for a quarter of an. 
hour on ice and when hght and frothy add two or three spoonfuls of firm and well-drained whipped. 
cream mixed in with a spoon. 


(3220), CONDE TART (Tarte & la Condé), 


Spread a thin flat of fine foundation paste (No. 135) or half puff paste (No. 146) on a baking 
sheet; cut it into a round and cover the surface within an inch and a quarter from the edge with 
a layer of vanilla frangipane (No. 44); wet the borders of the flat and cover entirely with another 
thin one of fine puff paste; press the edges with the fingers and scallop out with the tip of a small 
knife, then cover the surface with a Condé preparation (No. 2) made of chopped almonds, powdered 
sugar and egg-whites; besprinkle over with fine sugar and cook the tart in a slack oven for three- 
quarters of an hour. 


(3221) MASSILLON TIMBALES (Timbales 4 la Massillon), 


With some icing sugar, applied with a brush, coat over the inside of a charlotte mold, having 
it wider than its height; line it with marchpane paste (No. 139), not too thin, then dry this for a few 
hours in a mild temperature, and finally apricot over the insides. Take some almond biscuit (No. 
3229), some vanilla Savoy biscuit (No. 3231) and some Genoese biscuit (No. 3239) flavored with 
lemon and rum; cut them up in uniform dice pieces and put them in a vessel, mingling in half a 
pound of candied pineapple cut in small bits, and adding a few spoonfuls of light apricot marma- 
lade (No. 3675) in such a way that the whole becomes well mixed. Fill the empty lined mold with 
this and pour over a bavarois cream preparation (No. 3135), mixed with a little gelatine, and keep 
it on ice for half an hour. Just when ready to serve unmold on a cold dish and pour slowly over 
the biscuit a vanilla ice cream preparation (No. 3458), mixed with a few spoonfuls of whipped 
cream, then close the top with a layer of massepain (No. 3392) fastening it well to the edges. 
Unmold the timbale on a cold dish, cover the outside with fine apricot marmalade applied with 
a brush, and decorate the sides and top with fanciful pieces of candied fruits prepared beforehand 


for this purpose. Cover the bottom of the dish with a layer of the same ice cream preparation and 
Serve at once. 


(3222), TIMBALE OF WAFFLES (Timbale de Gaufres), 


Pound ten ounces of shelled and skinned almonds with one pound of sugar and sufficient egg- 
white to form it into a fine soft paste. Put this into a vessel and incorporate half a pound of 
flour; dilute with eight lightly beaten egg-yolks. With a part of this paste lay on a waxed baking 
sheet a band four and a half inches wide by sixteen inches long, and bake it to a fine color; as soon 
as done pare the edges straight and bend it around a timbale mold; fasten the two ends well with 
cooked sugar, and leave till cold. Add to the remainder of the paste a few spoonfuls of whipped 
cream, and with it arrange on waxed baking sheets about forty very thin and even waffles, each 








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- 
; 


SW EET ENTREMETS. 92% 


five inches in diameter, and cook them to a fine color ina brisk oven; as soon as done roll them on z 
small roller about a quarter of an inch in diameter. When all the waffles are cooked and rolled. 
up dip one end of them one by one into royal icing (No. 101), then into finely chopped pistachios, 
and lay them on a grate and dry the icing ina heater. After this is accomplished fasten them alk 
around the waffle timbale, close to each other, having the pistachio ends uppermost, and attack 
them in position with cooked sugar; set this timbale on a waffle paste foundation dredged over: 
with pink sugar (No. 172). Decorate the base with small one-inch diameter meringues filled with. 
bavarois cream (No. 3133). When prepared to serve slip it on a dish and fill it with a light. 
chocolate bavarois (No. 3131). 


(8223), WAFFLES BRISSELETS WITH RASPBERRY CREAM (Gaufres Brisselets & la Oréme: 
Framboisée), 

_ Arrange one pound of sifted flour in a circle on the table; in the center place four ounces of. 
butter, six ounces of sugar, a piece of hartshorn the size of a hazel-nut and powdered very fine.. 
Dilute the whole with half milk and half cream to have it the consistency of a Milan paste, only 
slightly softer; roll out in the shape of strings and cut each one of these into small pieces, then mold 


them into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Heat some flat round waffle irons, butter 


lightly with clarified butter and when hot open and place one of the balls in the center, close the 
irons and cook to a fine golden color on both sides; as soon as this is accomplished remove and roll. 
them quickly around rolling pins three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and leave till cold. Just. 
when ready to serve fill by means of a cornet with whipped cream flavored with raspberry and! 
dress in a pyramid on a dish covered with a folded napkin. 


(8224), WAFERS WITH CURAQGOA CREAM—ROLLED (Gaufres Roulées 4 la Oréme au 
| Curacoa), 


Have in a vessel three-quarters of a pound of sugar, six ounces of flour, six ounces of corn 
starch, two ounces of melted butter,.ten lightly beaten egg-whites and a pint of whipped cream;. 
make with this a smooth paste, adding a little vanilla flavoring and a few tablespoonfuls of brandy. 
Heat on a slow fire some flat waffle-irons, butter them with a pad dipped in clarified butter, and 
when hot cover one side with a spoonful of the paste; close the irons and cook the waffles on both 
sides; after they are done roll them on three-quarter-inch in diameter rollers; remove from these 
and leave till cold. Serve dressed in a pyramid on a dish covered with a napkin and fill them alh 
by means of a cornet with whipped cream flavored with a little Curagoa. 


fen 
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PASTRY (PAtisserie). 





LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS (Gros GAteaux pour Entremets), 


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(8225), ALMOND CAKE (Gateau d’Amandes), 


From some parings of puff paste roll out a round flat twelve inches in diameter and three-six- 
teenths of an inch in thickness; lay it on a slightly dampened tart plate; cover this flat with an 
even layer of almond cream (No. 40) a quarter of an inch thick, placed half an inch inside the 
border; moisten the edge lightly and cover over with another layer of the paste of the same diameter 
and thickness as the lower one, only making it of puff paste prepared to six turns (No. 146); press 
the edges well to attach the two flats together, and scallop this border with a small knife; egg the 
top, decorate it by making incisions in the shape of a rosette with the tip of a kitchen knife, then 
push the cake into a brisk oven to bake. As soon as done remove to the oven door, bestrew 
lightly with powdered sugar and return it again to the the oven to have the top well glazed. 


(3226), ANGEL CAKE (Gateau des Anges), 


Pour twenty egg-whites into a basin and whip them till quite firm; at once add ten ‘ounces of 
sugar, part of it flavored with vanilla (No. 3165), and continue whipping the whole until quite 
smooth, then add half a pound of flour into which has been mixed half a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar and sifted several times through a sieve; mix all together lightly till smooth. With this 
preparation fill some angel cake molds, eight to nine inches in diameter, three-quarters full; these 
should be quite dry. without any buttering. Push the cakes into a very slack oven to cook for forty 
to fifty minutes, then take them out and keep them in their molds for two hours; now pass a small 
kitchen knife between the pan and the cake, knock the edges of the former gently on the table to 
detach the cake and turn it on a grate; pare the tops very straight, ice with royal icing (No. 101) 
and dress on a lace-paper-covered board or dish; after the icing is dry decorate with more of the 


_ royal icing. 
(931) 


932 THE eh Pic uy haa: 


(3227), BABA SYRUPED OR ICED (Baba au Sirop ou Glacé), 


With some baba paste (No. 129) fill a well-buttered baba mold three-quarters full; stand this: 
in a moderately heated place, cover and leave until the paste has reached to the upper edges of the- 
mold, then set it on a pie plate in a slow oven to bake; this operation ought to take from an hour 
and a quarter to an hour and a half; as soon as baked cut away any surplus paste overreaching: 
the top and invert the baba on a grate. Prepare a thirty-two degree hot syrup flavored with good 
rum; soak the baba with this, applying it with a brush, and let drain well. It can be served sim- 
ply soaked with this syrup or else iced with a light layer of water icing (No. 102) or fondant (No. 
58) well flavored with rum. After the icing has dried remove the baba carefully from the grate. 
and lay it on a dish; should it be iced decorate the icing with angelica lozenges, halved cherries: 
and cuts of orange peels, surrounding the base with a circle of marchpane in small cases; serve. 


(3228), BISOUIT A LA-HERNANT (Biscuit & la Hernani), 


Bake a Savoy biscuit in a dome-formed mold eight inches in diameter by four inches high. 
Turn it out and let stand till cold, then: put, ‘it back again in the mold and pare it straight; cut: 
around the top at about two inches from the bottom a cover by means of a small knife held on a 


slant, tohave the cut form a bevel (this is to prevent the cover falling in the biscuit), and empty it, — 


leaving the outer crust only half an inch’in thickness. Place it on a grate with its cover on and 
cover with reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and ylaze with fondant (No. 58), to which melted. 
chocolate is added. At serving time fill the empty biscuit with whipped cream, into which mix a. 
few chocolate pastilles, some finely shredded pistachios and a few preserved cherries cut in two. 
Lay the biscuit on a frolle paste (No. 136) foundation, coated with egg whites, and dredged over 
with white granulated sugar; stide the whole on a cold dish and surround the base with a wreath. 
of Africans (No. 3364) glazed with chocolate. 


(3229), ALMOND BISCUIT (Biscuit aux Amandes), 


Beat one pound of sugar in a basin with fifteen egg-yolks, obtaining a very light mixture; add 
five ounces of sweet and one of bitter almonds, pounded finely with two egg-whites; continue to. 
whip together for a few minutes longer, then add five ounces of flour, five ounces a fecula, two. 
ounces of melted fresh butter and lastly twelve stiffly whipped egg-whites. Pour this preparation 
into a pound cake or ‘‘manqué” mold lined with paper, and bake in a veryslow oven. Turn out the: 
cake as soon as done, transferring it to a grate to cool; mask the surface with apricot marmalade. 
(No. 3675) and ice with almond milk fondant (No. 58). After this icing is dry slip the cake ona 
’ round board covered with lace paper and decorate the top with royal icing. Surround the base with. 
a circle of fine large preserved cherries and lozenges of angelica. 


(3230). MOUSSELINE BISCUIT (Biscuit Mousseline), 


Mix and work eight egg-yolks and two whole eggs in a basin with one pound of sugar; when 
quite light add two ounces of orange sugar (No. 3165) and continue to stir the preparation for a. 
few moments longer; add four ounces of flour and four ounces of fecula and finally eight stiffly 
beaten egg-whites. Butter a cylindrical timbale mold, glaze it with icing sugar and fecula, half 
of each, then fill the mold three-quarters full with the above composition; set it in a very slack 
oven and let bake for an hour and a half. As soon as the biscuit is done unmold on a grate, leave: 
to cool and afterward pare it very straight; ice over with strawberry icing (No. 102) and dress the 
cake on a dish. Put into a copper pan five spoonfuls of strawberry pulp and mix into it sufficient 
orange sugar to form a flowing paste. Heat and when quite hot pour it over five stiffly beaten 
egg-whites. Just when serving fill the hollow in the cylindrical mold with this preparation, dress- 
ing it in theshape of a dome; surround the base of this cream with a circle of preserved cherries. 
and small lozenges of angelica. Arrange around the bottom of the cake some small Genoese cakes. 
(No. 3307) iced with strawberry and cut into rectangulars. 


(8231), SAVOY BISCUIT (Biscuit de Savoie), 


Grease a high biscuit mold with melted prepared veal kidney suet; drain off any surplus fat 
by reversing the mold, then glaze with sugar icing and fecula, halfof each. Pour into a vessel one 
pound of powdered sugar flavored with vanilla (No. 3165) and a pinch of salt, add fourteen egg-yolks. 
one at a time and beat the whole forcibly to have it get quite frothy; whip fourteen egg-whites. 
to a stiff froth, and put a fourth part into the yolks, also six ounces of potato fecula and six ounces: 
of flour, the two latter to be sifted together. As soon as the whole is thoroughly combined. 








LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 933 





add the remainder of the beaten whites. With this fill the mold three-quarters full and stand it 
on 2 baking pan; fix it so that the mold will not fall; place it carefully in the mildest spot in the 
oven. In order to bake this biscuit properly it is essential that the oven be first thoroughly heated, 
then allowed to fall to a mild temperature; leave it in for two and a quarter to two and a half 
hours. When done to perfection unmold on a grate, cool, pare very straight and dress on a dish; 
‘surround the base with a circle of lady bouchées iced with vanilla (No. 3376) 


(82382), BRETON CAKE (Gateau Breton), 


Set in a basin one pound and a quarter of sugar, eighteen eggs and a small pinch of salt; beat 
‘continuously for twenty-five to thirty minutes so as to have it very light, then add six ounces of 
almonds, including an ounce of bitter ones, these to be pounded very finely with one egg. Continue 
the beating process for a few minutes longer and then mix in a pound and a half of sifted flour 
-and finally ten ounces of melted butter. Distribute this preparation into a set of six Breton 
molds, having these buttered and floured; fill them up to the top and bake in a slack oven. 
Remove as fast as they are done, unmold on a grate, let cool and then pare very straight. Ice the 
‘smallest as well as the fourth one in size with white vanilla fondant (No. 58); the second and fifth 
with pink strawberry fondant and the third and sixth with chocolate fondant. Dry the icings well 
then dress the cakes on an office paste foundation in a pyramid, one on the other, alternating the 
colors and graduating the various sizes. Fill the hollow formed in the cake with Quillet cream (No. 
48), and decorate with more of this pushed through a cornet. Keep the cake in a cool place until 
required for serving. 


(8233), CROWN OF BRIOCHE (Couronne de Brioche), 


Put two pounds of brioche paste (No. 130) that has been sufficiently raised and hardened on ice 
‘on a floured table, form it into a ball and lay it on a round baking sheet covered with paper; flatten 
it slightly with the hands and make a hole in the center, spreading out the paste so that it forms 
into a large ring; place it on a baking dish, equalize, egg and gash a round inside of the crown 
with the tip of a knife, raising the dough; push into a well-heated oven and bake for thirty-five 
minutes. These crowns can be made of asmaller size, two ounces each, to be served for breakfast. 


(3234), LARGE BRIOCHE WITH HEAD—Grosse Brioche & Téte), 


Have a brioche paste prepared the same as described in No. 130; put this in a vessel in a cool 
place and let it rise to half its size again. Then work it once more and set it in the ice-box for 
two hours to have it harden. Butter a tin mold six and a half inches in diameter and eight 
inches deep; line it with paper and butter this over. Mold a four-pound round-shaped piece of the 
paste, put it in the mold, then mold another pound piece and roll it on the table on one side to give 
it a long pear-form appearance; with dampened fingers make a hole in the center of the first paste 
and in it insert the pointed end of the pear; leave the mold in a moderately heated place to have 
the paste rise to the level of the top, then egg it over twice and put in a slack oven to cook for 
two hours. Unmold assoon as done, allow to cool and dress on a folded napkin. In case there be 
no mold at hand use a cylinder of strong paper the same diameter as the mold. 


(3235), CHAMOUNIX CAKE (Gateau Chamounix), 


Bake in a slack oven a small Genoese preparation (No. 3239) placed in a border mold, it hav- 
ing a round-shaped bottom buttered and bestrewn with chopped almonds. After it is taken from 
the oven, cold and pared, brush the surface over with apricot marmalade (No, 3675) and lay it 
on a pastry grate, then cover entirely with kirsch icing (No. 102), and when this is dry dress on & 
dish. Suppress the shells from about a hundred chestnuts, without touching the skins; boil them 
slowly in plenty of water in a covered vessel, then drain off the water, leaving them covered 
with a hot cloth; now quickly remove the skins; pound and rub the chestnuts through a sieve 
into a saucepan with three-quarters of their weight of powdered sugar added, also a small bit of 
vanilla; stir this well over a moderate fire until it detaches from the bottom and leave it till 
nearly cold, then dilute with a little light syrup and kirsch; incorporate into the mixture a few 
spoonfuls of well-drained whipped cream, but without weakening it, keeping it quite consistent, 
then stir on ice for ten minutes to harden, adding a salpicon of vari-colored fruits after itis 
rewoyed. With this preparation fill up the hollow of the cake and smooth it to a dome-shape, then 
decorate through a cornet with whipped cream slightly sweetened and flavored with vanilla. 


934 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3236), COMPIEGNE CAKE (Gateau Compitgne). 


Dilute three-quarters of an ounce of compressed yeast in a vessel with one gill of warm milk; 
strain, return it to the vessel and incorporate five ounces of flour to make a soft leaven; put this 
on a floured table, mold and replace it in the vessel after cleaning it out well; cover over with a. 
cloth and leave in a mild temperature to rise to double its size. In another vessel place three- 
quarters of a pound of flour, form a hole in the center and in it lay an ounce of sugar and a heavy 
pinch of salt (according to the saltiness of the butter), two eggs, eight yolks and six ounces of butter. 
Mix all well together to form into a paste, working it forcibly for a few moments in order to give it. 
body, then add slowly one gill of rich cream; continue to work the paste until it has plenty of 
body, then mix in the leaven very lightly, also one pint of well-drained whipped cream. Butter a. 
large plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) seven inches in diameter by seven inches high; fill it up 
three-quarters with the above paste and leave it in a mild temperature until quite full; stand it on 
a pie plate and push it carefully into a very slack oven. It should take an hour anda half to an 


hour and three-quarters to bake; take it out as soon as done, invert it on a grate and let cool off. 


Dress on a folded napkin to serve. 


(3237), FLEURY CAKE (Gateau Fleury), 


Make a biscuit preparation with a pound of sugar, having two ounces of it flavored with 
vanilla (No. 3165), eight ounces of flour and four ounces of fecula sifted together; three-quarters of. 
a pound of roasted and pounded filberts, twenty-two egg-yolks, six beaten whites and a grain of salt. 
Bake in a slack oven on a baking sheet covered with paper, having it at least half an inch thick, 
and when done put aside to cool for twelve hours. With seven or eight egg-yolks, some sugar, six 
gills of milk and a piece of vanilla, prepare an English cream (No. 42); as soon as it thickens: 
remove and mix in a quarter of a pound of roasted chopped filberts, and pour it at once intoa glazed 
vessel, working till cold; then strain through a tammy and return it to the saucepan to beat on a. 





Fia. 595. 


slow fire for two minutes to have it lukewarm; remove once more and incorporate into it, without 
ceasing to stir, one-half pound of fresh butter divided in small pats; the cream should now be 
quite consistent and slightly frothy; divide it into two parts, and color one with carmine mixed 
with a littlesyrup so that it acquires a pinkish hue, leaving the other half white. Have a hexagon 
(six-sided) shaped cardboard pattern and with it cut three or four pieces from the prepared biscuit; 
split them through their thickness, mask them over with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and recon- 


struct them as before; fasten these pieces on a thin Genoese bottom a third of an inch wider than 


the biscuit, and on this, with the remainder of the biscuit cut thin and also masked with apricot, 
raise an even pyramid, cut hexagonally; cover it as well as its base with a thin layer of the butter 
cream. Roast in the oven half a pound of filberts cut up small; when removed besprinkle with 
fine sugar, and when nearly cold apply them in smooth layers against the thickness of the base on 
which the pyramid stands, pressing them down with the blade of a knife to equalize the sur- 
face, leaving no open space whatever between. Introduce a part of the white cream into a small 
fancy socket pocket (Fig. 179), and push on the surfaces of the pyramid small, plain, close flowers, 
strictly following the divisions of the hexagon; next to these push some pink flowers, alternating 
the shades, in the different compartments. When the pyramid is entirely.covered push a large 
rose on top, having the two colors mixed, then with asmaller socket surround the base of the cake 
with small roses made of the two colors. Keep the cake for a quarter of an hour on ice to have the 


cream harden superficially, and on removing slip it carefully on a napkin, and serve at once, for 
the buttered cream must remain hard. 





LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 935 


(3238), FRUIT CAKE (Gateau aux. Fruits), 


Proportions.—One pound and a half of butter, a pound and a half of sugar, a pound and a 
half of flour, twenty eggs, four pounds of seeded Malaga raisins, four pounds of Smyrna raisins, 
four pounds of citron, ten pounds of currants, two gills of rum, two gills of brandy, four gills of 
1 lasses, one ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of allspice, a quarter of an ounce of mace and a. 
quarter of an ounce of nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar together in a tinned basin until creamy 
and white; adding the eggs one by one add the flour and mix perfectly, then put in the Malaga and 
Smyrna raisins, the currants, the finely cut-up citron and the spices; afterward the liquors and 
molasses; work until thoroughly mixed. For this quantity have two very strong tin molds twelve 
inches long at the bottom and five inches wide, with a quarter of an inch splay on each side, the depth. 
to be six and a quarter inches. These molds must be furnished with covers closing on the outside. 
Butter and line them with buttered paper. Divide the preparation into two equal parts, one into- 
each mold; cover the tops with buttered paper, put on the covers, then set both molds on a 
baking sheet and push into aslack oven. They take from six and a half to seven hours to bake. 
When partly done turn the molds upside down and finish cooking; remove from the oven, lift off 
the covers and arrange them one beside the other; lay blocks of wood on top, two and a quarter 
- inches thick and of the same dimensions as the opening of the mold, or even slightly narrower, 
so they can enter the mold with facility. On each block lay a board and on this a sufficiently 
heavy weight to allow these blocks to enter entirely inside the mold, leaving it in this position for 
twelve hours in a cool place. Unmold the cakes carefully, wrap them in paper, and range in a. 
hermetically closed tin box. These cakes require to be made two months beforehand, and be left. 
tightly closed so they acquire the mellowness and flavor characteristic of theirkind. When needed 








for use remove from the boxes, take off the paper adhering to the cakes, and cut each one into 
eyen eight crosswise slices; divide all of these on the widest side into five equal-sized pieces,. 
therefore obtaining forty pieces from each mold; wrap each 
one of these small pieces in a separate piece of waxed paper, 
then in tin foil, and after all are prepared put them into 
small cardboard boxes manufactured expressly for this pur- 
pose, they to be four and three- 
quarter inches long by an inch and 
a half wide and an inch and an i 
eighth deep; these are the inside TA TM 
measurements; place on the covers, | oy a 
Se tie with a white ribbon once around Te he Test a i a 
Fig. 596. their length and then around Fie: 597. 
their width, forming it into a pretty 
bow, which must come exactly in the center of the top of the box. For the machine for 
eutting these cakes see Figs. 596-597. These machines greatly facilitate the cutting. To have 
them very regular, according to the above proportions, put the whole cake in machine No. 596, 
cut it in transversal slices one after the other, pressing the cake forward on the machine for each 
slice that is cut. Machine No. 597 is used for dividing the first slices and to cut them very 
even, passing the blade of the knife between the vertical guides of the machine. If instead of 
small cakes in boxes a large one be desired, then put the preparation into one large round mold 
sixteen inches in diameter at the bottom and eighteen inches at the top or opening; it must be 
five and a half inches deep and furnished with a tube in the center five and a half inches at the 
bottom and five at the top. Cover the insides with bands of buttered paper, overlapping each other, 
and cook the cake the same as the preceding ones in a slack oven, leaving it in from seven to 
seven and a half hours. Let it get perfectly cold by placing on top a board seventeen inches in 
diameter, having a hole in the center five and a half inches in diameter, then press down lightly. 
These cakes ought to be made two months before they are needed and kept in a cool place. When 
required for use unmold, remove the paper and ice over with several layers of royal icing (No. 101); 
slide on a board covered with lace paper, and after the icing is perfectly dry decorate with more 
royal icing. A fine gum-paste vase can be placed in the center, filled with flowers or other orna- 
ments. 


(3939), GENOESE CAKE (Gateau Génoise). 


Butter a pound cake mold and line it with paper. Have one pound of sugar, part of it being 
flavored with vanilla (No. 3165), in a basin with sixteen whole eggs; whip this till light, warming 


the preparation over a slow fire. To have this attain a proper degree of lightness it will be neces- 


936 THE EPICUREAN. 





sary to whip for at least forty minutes, then mix in one pound of sifted flour, and lastly half a 
pound of melted butter. Fill the mold three-quarters full with this, and bake in a slack oven for 
an hour and a quarter. Remove, unmold on a grate and cool thoroughly. Then pare it very 
straight and cover with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); ice with vanilla fondant (No. 58). 
After the icing has dried thoroughly slip the cake on a dish and decorate either with royal icing 
or fanciful cuts of fruits; surround with a circle of preserved plums and cherries. 


(3240), GUGELHOPFEN (ougloff), 


Butter well the inside of a baba mold having fluted sides; decorate the interior with halved 
almonds and keep it cool. Form a hollow in the center of four ounces of sifted flour; in it lay half 
an ounce of yeast, diluting it little by little with a small quantity of tepid milk; mix both 
flour and liquid slowly together to obtain a soft paste; gather it all up, lay it on the table and form 
into a ball, cutting a cross on top; place in a basin, cover with a cloth and leave in a mild tempera- 
ture to have it rise to double its volume. In another vessel work ten ounces of butter with a 
spatula to a light cream. Lay three-quarters of a pound of flour in a circle on the table; in the 
center put one ounce of sugar and a little salt; dissolve these with a little water, then add four 
whole eggs and four separate yolks; mix the whole well and knead _ the paste vigorously to have it 
smooth with plenty of body, proceeding the same as for a baba paste; add slowly a gill and a half of 
good cream; continue to knead the paste until it is quite glossy, then add the butter slowly, knead ~ 
once more for a few moments, put in the leaven and mingle all well together, then add four ounces 
of seeded Malaga raisins. As soon as all the ingredients are perfectly combined lay the paste in the 
mold to reach to two-thirds of its height and set it in a mild temperature until it raises to the 
top. Place the mold on a baking pan and bake in a slack oven for two hours; unmold on a wire 
grate. 


(3241), HAZEL-NUT OAKE (Gateau aux Noisettes), 


Prepare a fine paste with two eggs, four ounces of almonds and four ounces of hazel-nuts, both 
well pounded. Put into a basin a pound anda quarter of sugar with twenty egg-yolks, beat till 
quite frothy, then stir in the almond and nut paste, continuing to beat for a few moments longer. 
mix in lightly three-quarters of a pound of flour and twenty egg-whites whipped to a stiff froth. 
Divide this preparation in three rings eight inches in diameter lined with paper; bake the cakes 
in a slow oven; turn them out as soon as done and leave cool off entirely, then mask each with a 
thick layer of pastry cream (No. 46) highly flavored with vanilla, adding to it a few roasted hazel- 
nuts pounded with alittlecream. Lay one round on top of the other to form into one large cake; 
pare it well rounded and very uniform with a knife and cover it entirely with reduced apricot mar- 
malade (No. 3675); ice the cake with vanilla icing (No. 102). As soon as this is hard and dry slide 
the cake ona dish covered with lace paper and decorate the top with a fine display of royal 
icing ornamentation. Surround the bottom of the cake with small lady bouchées (No. 3376) iced 
with white fondant (No. 58), laying each one in a small paper case. 


——— 


(3242), JAMAICA CAKE (Gateau & la Jamaique), 


Beat up a pound of sugar with fourteen egg-yolks, so as to have it frothy, then add slowly : 
twelve beaten-up whites and at the same time one pound of sifted rice flour, then a pound of melted ¢ 
butter, also pouring it in slowly with some grated lemon peel, a grain of salt, six ounces of candied | 
orange peels cut in small pieces and six ounces of small raisins. Bake this preparation in a slack — 
oven after placing it in a buttered and floured spiral mold; when the cake is unmolded and cold 
apricot the surface and glaze with rum icing (No. 102). Dress on a napkin and decorate with — 
whipped cream. 


(3243). JELLY CAKE MERINGUED (Gateau a la Gelée Meringué), 


Have eight egg-yolks in a vessel with half a pound of sugar and the peel of one lemon; beat 
with a spatula until it becomes light and creamy, then add half a pound of flour, four ounces of 
melted butter and lastly eight firmly whipped egg-whites. Take some jelly cake molds eight inches 
in diameter and half an inch deep; butter and flour their insides and fill them to the top with the . 
mixture, then bake ina hot oven. As soon as done unmold on grates and leave stand to cool. 
Place three of these cakes one on top of the other with a layer of currant jelly (No. 3670) 
Spread between each, pare the cake round, decorate the surface with a handsome rosette of Italian 


LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 937 





meringue (No. 140) in the center, it having six to eight leaves, with an empty space in the middle; 
around the edges dress a continuous wreath of these rosettes, also hollow in the center. Stand 
the cake for two or three minutes in the oven to dry the meringue decorations, then take out 
and fill the cavities with apple, currant and quince jellies and apricot marmalade, alternating the 
different colors; set it on a lace-paper covered dish. Instead of covering the jelly cake with merin- 
gue, a piece of cardboard the same diameter as the cake, having a design of any kind cut out to 
form a stencil, may be used; lay it over the cake, sprinkle it entirely with finely powdered sugar, 
semove the cardboard carefully and the design will be found imprinted on the cake. 


(3244), LADY CAKE (Gateau des Dames), 


Put fourteen ounces of butter and twenty ounces of sugar in a metal bowl and work together 
with the hands for fifteen or twenty minutes to have it quite frothy, then add four ounces of almonds, 
including a few bitter ones, pounded with a little water, and work again for a fewmoments. Now 
put in one gill of brandy or rum, twenty ounces of fiour and finally twenty very stiffly whipped 
egg-whites. Butter a pound-cake mold, line it throughout with paper and fillit three-quarters full 
with the preparation; bake in a very slow oven. (Once the cake is in the oven it must not be 
touched until baked.) Take it out, unmold and leave to get thoroughly cold. Then ice with 
royal icing (No. 101) and stand it at once on a lace-paper covered board. After the icing has dried 
decorate the cake with more royal icing. 


(8245). MANDARIN CAKE (Gateau Mandarin), 


Fasten on a dish a wooden bottom about an inch thick and cover it with white paper. Heat a 
medium-sized biscuit mold, grease it over with melted veal kidney suet mixed with melted butter, 
and turn it over to drain out all the fat, then glaze with sugar mixed with fecula. Beat up vigor- 
ously in a basin twelve egg-yolks with three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, having ones 
quarter of it grated on two mandarins, and add a grain of salt. When this preparation becomes 
creamy, incorporate into it ten or eleven beaten whites, and at the same time let fall into it through 
a sieve a pound of fine flour and fecula mixed together; carefully work without breaking, and with 
it fill the mold nearly to the top; surround the exterior of the top with a band of buttered paper, 
then lay it on asmall baking sheet covered with a thick layer of hot cinders, and push it into a 





Fig. 598. 


moderate oven to bake for one hour, carefully turning the baking sheet around at frequent ‘inter- 
vals. On removing the biscuit from the oven detach it from the top, inserting a small knife 
around the edges, and unmold ona grate, and when perfectly cold cut the bottom off straight, 
then let it get stale for seven or eight hours. Should the surface of the biscuit not be smooth, or 
else too brown, stand it upright on the grate and brush over entirely with apricot marmalade (No. 
3675), then cover with raw vanilla icing (No. 102); when this is dry, cut a round piece from the 
cut side, about a quarter of an inch from the edge, remove this piece and empty out the biscuit as 
neatly as possible, not approaching the edges too closely. Cut across through the center about 
twelve small, fresh and sound mandarins; remove the insides neatly from the peel, keeping these as 
whole as possible, and lay them on one side; suppress the white pith and seeds from the fruit, and 
crush the pulp to rub it through a sieve; put this into a vessel and mix with it a few spoonfuls of 
champagne, some syrup, a small bunch of lemon peel and a few spoonfuls of calf’s foot jelly (No. 
104), sweetened and clarified; let infuse together for fifteen minutes. With a vegetable spoon (Fig. 
91) scoop out all the white part from the halyed mandarin peels, and incrust them ina thick layer 
of pounded, slightly salted ice, suppressing the lemon peel from the preparation; thicken it lightly 


938 | THE EPICUREAN. 


while stirring on ice, and with it fill the empty peels; brush them over with jelly and keep on ice for 
a quarter of an hour. Open five or six oranges from the stalk end; with a tin tube empty them 


out entirely, suppressing all the white pith; incrust them in pounded, unsalted ice, and then fill — , 


them with clear jelly flavored with orange (No. 3180), alternated with layers of blanc-mange 
(No. 3138), also flavored with orange; harden both of these preparations on ice. Now fill the 
empty biscuit with well-drained and sweetened whipped cream flavored with Curagoa and orange 
peel. Close the opening with the removed piece and dress on the center of the wooden bottom. 
Surround with the filled halved mandarins, and the base of the dish with the oranges cut in six, 
then cut off straight on one end so as to maintain them upright. 


(8246). MARLY CAKE (Gateau - Marly), 


Butter and glaze two dome-shaped pointed molds, seven inches high by six inches in diameter; 
fill them almost to the top with a lemon-flavored biscuit preparation, the same as for mandarin 
cakes (No. 3245), and surround the opening with a band of buttered paper; stand them upright on 
a raised-edge baking sheet and bake the biscuits in a slow oven for one hour. Remove and un- 
mold on a pastry grate, and when cold cut the bottoms off straight and let get stale for the next 





Fie. 599. 


twelve hours. Now lay the cakes on a grate, placing them on the cut end and brush them over 
lightly with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), then: cover orie of them entirely with pink icing (No. 102) 
and the other with white (No. 102). Two minutes after; without letting it get dry, divide each biscuit 
into eight pieces from top to bottom, pointed on the tops, and when the icing is thoroughly dry take up: 
the pieces one by one and reconstruct them into one biscuit, only being careful to alternate the colors, 
having first a pink piece and then a white one; empty the inside of the biscuit as neatly as possible 
and fill the center with St. Honoré cream (No. 49), to which pounded almonds and a little kirsch 
haye been added, dressing it in layers alternated with cut-up macaroons soaked inrum. Invert 
the biscuit on a cold dish covered over with a folded napkin. 


(3247), MILFOIL CAKE, POMPADOUR (Gateau Mille-Feuilles, Pompadour), 


Prepare some rounds of puff paste (No. 146) the same way and size as the milfoil with pre- 
serves (No. 3248); cover each of these with vanilla-flavored English cream (No. 42), dredging the 
top with a salpicon of candied fruits cut in one-eighth inch squares and macerated in kirsch. 
After the cake is formed, pare it round and cover with firmly beaten and well-drained whipped 
cream sweetened with fine vanilla sugar (No. 3165). Dress this in a dome-form on top, and deco- 
rate through a cornet: with whipped cream tinted a pale pink; strew with thin green fillets of 
pistachios. Slip the cake on a flat two inches wider than itself and covered with strawberry icing 
(No. 102), sprinkled with red sugar (No. 172); surrround the base of the cake with small lady 
bouchées iced with strawberry (No. 33876). 


(3248), MILFOIL WITH PRESERVES (Gateau Mille-Feuilles aux Confitures), 


This requires some puff paste of twelve turns (No. 146); divide it into six-ounce pieces, roll 
them out to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and cut into rounds seven inches in diameter; 
lay these on baking sheets slightly moistened with cold water applied with a brush; from the center 
of each piece remove a two-inch diameter round and leave these to rest in a cold place for half an 
hour; bestrew lightly with sugar, prick and bake in a slack oven. After taking them out detach 









LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 939 ° 


from the sheets and lay them at once on grates to get cold, then stand one on top of the other inter- 
calated with a layer either of currant jelly (No. 3670), apricot marmalade or peach marmalade (No. 
3675); pare the cake neatly into a perfect round and cover with Italian meringue (No. 140) on the 
edges. Sprinkle over it a mixture made of equal parts of Mocha sugar (No. 3249), half of which is 
colored with carmine with a little syrup, chopped almonds, chopped pistachios and currants. Lay 
the cake on a tart dish and push into a moderate oven for a few moments to dry the meringue 
without coloring it, then place it on a round made of a three-eighths of an inch thicknocs of 
frolle paste (No. 136), and iced over with pink icing (No. 102), strewn with pink sugar (No. 172), 
it having a border of gum paste or English paste. Dress the milfoil either on a napkin or on a 
socle, and garnish around with small bouchées filled with currant jelly, these being called Wells of 
Love (No. 3338). 


(3249), MOCHA CAKE (Gateau Moka), 


Deposit in a vessel half a pound of sugar, six egg-yolks and one whole egg; beat for fifteen 
minutes to have it light, then add six ounces of flour and two ounces of fecula sifted together, 
also two tablespoonfuls of brandy, six ounces of melted butter, and lastly six well-whipped egg- 
whites. Bake this in a buttered and paper-lined pound-cake mold; as soon as done remove, un- 
mold on a grate and leave it there until perfectly cold. Now pare the cake very straight and cut 


‘it across in two even parts; fill it with a three-eighths of an inch thick layer of Mocha cream (No. 


45); cover the top and sides with the same and decorate the surface through a channeled socket 
pocket (Fig. 179), using more of the cream; dredge with Mocha sugar. Leave the cake in a cool 
place until required for serving. 

Mocha Sugar is made by pounding loaf sugar in a mortar and passing it through a six-mesh 
sieve cloth (No. 94). 


(3250). NEAPOLITAN CAKE (Gateau Napolitain), 


Crush one pound and ten ounces of almonds with a pound and a quarter of sugar; reduce to a 
fine powder; pass this through a sieve. Sift on the table two pounds of flour, make a hollow in 
the center and in it lay the almond and sugar powder, a pound and a half of butter, a pinch of 
salt and four whole eggs; work the whole together’ just enough to form a smooth, firm paste, 
for if worked too much it is liable to crumble. Lay it in a vessel and leave in a cool place to rest; 
one hour later divide this paste into sixteen or twenty even parts and roll them to a quarter of an 
inch thick by six and a quarter inches in diameter; empty out the centers with a two-inch pastry 
cutter. Have two of the flats a little thicker and two inches wider in diameter than the others; 
bake on a buttered and floured baking sheet in a hot oven, and as soon as done take them out and 
leave to cool under the pressure of a weight; pare the large rounds eight inches in diameter and 
put them once more under a weight; when cold ice either with white or pink icing (No. 102); mask 
the small flats with well-strained and reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675); now lay them one over 
the other; pare them evenly to have the cake six inches in diameter, and cover the whole with well- 
reduced and well-cooked apricot marmalade; place the cake on one of the large flats and over lay 
the second large one. Decorate around with fanciful cuts of almond gum paste and the top with 
a cupola of royal icing or gum paste. Ornament around the edge of the large flat with a double 
border of the same paste and arrange the cake on a richly decorated stand. This cake is intended 
for a sideboard. It can also be made with almond biscuit (No. 3229). 


(3251), NOUGATINE CAKE (Gateau Nougatine). 


Make a biscuit preparation with a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of flour, six whole eggs, 
eighteen yolks, six beaten whites, vanilla and a grain of salt. Bake this in a slack oven in three 
or four smooth fruit pie circles, six or seven inches in diameter by an inch to an inch and a half 
high. These circles should be buttered with clarified butter and glazed with fecula. After taking 
them from the oven remove from the circles and leave to get thoroughly cold for twelve hours. 
Prepare a buttered orange cream the same as for the Fleury cake (No. 3237). Mince half a pound 
of sweet peeled almonds, previously dried on a sheet of paper then roasted in a pan to brown nicel y: 
Cut the biscuits into transversal slices three-eighths of an inch thick, and taking up seven or eight 
of these, one by one, cover one side with a layer of the prepared cream, then put one on top of the: 
other so as to form into a regular-shaped cake, and cover the top and sides at once with another 
layer of cream; now spread over the whole a layer of the roasted almonds, fastening them on with 
the blade of a knife, so as to equalize its thickness; besprinkle lightly with fine vanilla sugar (No 
3165), and push the cake for one minute in a hot oven, simply to have the sugar adhere to the 


almonds. then take out at once and when cold dress on a napkin. 


940 THE EPICUREAN, 


(8252), PINEAPPLE CAKE (Gateau Ananas), 


Prepare aSavoy biscuit composition in the following proportions: One pound of sugar, fourteen 


yolks, two whole eggs, three-quarters of a pound of feculaand flour, half of each, fourteen whipped 


whites, and some pineapple extract. Bake a part of this in a Savarin mold seven and a quarter 
inches in diameter, buttered and glazed with sugar and fecula, and the remainder in a charlotte 
mold six inches wide by seven high. As soon as both are cooked unmold the cakes and allow to cool. 
Cover the one baked in the Savarin mold with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and ice with pink 


fondant (No. 58) flavored with kirsch; as soon as this is dry slip it on a sweet paste (No. 136) foun-— 


dation, sprinkled over with green granulated sugar; put a pad of biscuit in the center, and range 
it on a dish or board covered with lace paper. Pare the cake baked in the charlotte mold to the 
shape of a sugar loaf, then cut it into transversal slices three-eighths of an inch thick; cover all 
of these with a light layer of apricot marmalade, and reconstruct the cake as before; cover its 


i 


entire surface with Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with orange and slightly tinted with vege-_ 


table yellow; pour some of the same meringue in a pocket (Fig. 179) with a channeled socket and 
push it through to imitate the rough skin of a pineapple, forming points on the entire surface of 
the cake; stand it on a tart plate and pushit into a slack oven to barely dry the meringue; remove 
it at once and allow to cool thoroughly; place it on a grate and ice over with yellow orange icing 
(No. 102), and when this is dry detach the pineapple cautiously from the grate and place it on top 
of the biscuit. Over the points of the rough pineapple form the tips with chocolate icing pushed 
through a cornet. Decorate the top with stalks cut from angelica dipped in- sugar cooked to 
‘‘crack”” (No. 171) having the base of the pineapple surrounded by leaves of the same. (See 
pineapple, No. 3595.) 


(8253), PLUM CAKE (Gateau aux Raisins de Corinthe), 


Butter a charlotte mold five and a half inches in diameter by five inches high; at the bottom 


lay a round piece of paper .and line the sides with a band of the same. This should reach three-— 


‘quarters of an inch beyond the edge and should be serrated all around. Place three-quarters of a 
pound of butter in a vessel with the same weight of sugar and beat together to have it creamy, 


then add six whole eggs, one at a time, one gill of rum, six ounces of currants cleaned and softened — 


in hot water, three ounces of preserved cherries cut in four, three ounces of citron cut up finely, a pinch 


‘of powdered carbonate of ammonia, and lastly fourteen ounces of sifted flour. Fill the mold three- — 


quarters full with this, and stand it on a baking plate; push it into a slack oven to bake, and when 
done unmold on a grate to cool thoroughly without removing the paper, then place it on a dish 
covered with a folded napkin and serve. 


(3254), POUND CAKE (Pound Cake). 


Put twelve eggs and four ounces of sugar in a basin and whip until they become quite light, 
warming them slightly over the fire. Ina large metal vessel lay one pound of butter and three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar; work with the hands until creamy and light, then add gradually the 
prepared eggs, beating continuously, and a gill of brandy or rum, and lastly one pound of sifted 
flour. Butter a pound cake mold, line it with paper and pour in the preparation, having it three- 
quarters full, then place it in a slow oven to bake for an hour and three-quarters to two hours. 
Remove from the oven, unmold, and leave stand till cold, then ice it with icing flavored with rum 
(No. 102). After this is dry slip the cake on a board or dish and decorate with royal icing. 


(3255). PUNCH CAKE, PUNCH BISCUIT, IMITATION OF BOAR’S HEAD, A BOOK OR A HAM 
(Gateau Punch, Punch Biscuit, Imitation de Hure de Sanglier, d’un Livre ou d’un Jambon), 


Put eight ounces of fine white apple marmalade (No. 3674) and eight ounces of sugar in a copper 
pan; stand this on the fire and cook for a few moments to reduce the marmalade, then remove and 
adda quarter of a gill of rum, a quarter of a gill of Curagoa and eight well-beaten egg-whites. Bake 


a Savoy biscuit (No. 3231) ina buttered timbale mold, glazed with sugar and fecula; as soon as - 


done, unmold, cool and cut it straight, then empty it from the bottom, leaving an inch-thick crust 
all around. Fill the empty cake with the above apples, lay over a round of frolle paste (No. 136) 
the same dimensions as the cake andinvert it on a grate; ice with orange fondant (No. 58) flavored 
with rum and Curagoa. After the icing has dried slide the cake on a dish, decorate with fanciful 
cuts of candied fruits and surround the base with a circle of greengages. 





LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. gat 


; Punch Biscuit Paste—One pound of sugar, half a pound of flour, half a pound of fecula 
nine ounces of melted butter, three whole eggs, eleven yolks, four whipped whites, a small lasetat 
of rum, chopped lemon and orange peel and a grain of salt. Place ‘the sugar in a vessel; add 
the yolks slowly, creaming together with a spoon, and when very light put in the butter Piette 
the whipped whites, the fecula, the sifted flour, and lastly the peels and salt. 


Boar’s Head—Imitation (Hure de Sanglier).—Bake thoroughly a punch biscuit in an oval 
mold the same size as a natural boar’s head, fourteen by nine inches on the top and six inches. 
deep, the splay to be half an inch. The next day cut the biscuit the shape of a boar’s head 
(Fig. 537); hollow it out underneath and replace the biscuit that is removed by the same 
soaked in maraschino so as to make a paste, into which mix plenty of candied fruits. Lay the cake 
on an oval foundation the size of the head, and cover with well-cooked apricot marmalade (No. 
3675), then coat the whole with cooked chocoiate icing (No. 99). As soon as the icing is dry cut 
out the snout, leaving it partly opened, hollow out the cavities for the eyes, and on each side of 
the snout place two large fangs made of almond paste (No. 127) and dipped in clear dissolved: 
gelatine. Imitate the eyes by two rounded balls of almond paste, placing a black spot in the 
center; mold these in a teaspoon with clarified gelatine; unmold and when cold fasten them in the 
cavities made to hold the eyes. Dress the cake on a foundation glazed with green fondant (No. 58). 
Decorate the head with fruits and transparent hatelets, ornamented with large fruits; the base 
should be surrounded with chopped jelly and jelly crotitons. 


A Book—Imitation (Un Livre).—To be prepared the same as the boar’s head with punch 
biscuit, the two covers and the back of the binding made of almond paste (No. 127). Empty out 
the center, leaving the top cover stationary. Glaze the sides of the book with orange icing, the 
cover with coffee icing and decorate the whole with royal icing. Fill the inside with tutti-frutti 
ice cream (No. 3586). This book can be laid on a socle or a cushion glazed with pink icing. 


Ham—lInmitation (Jambon).—As for the boar’s head, prepare a punch biscuit fourteen inches. 
long, nine inches wide and four and a half inches thick; after being cooked and thoroughly cold, 
trim it to the shape of a ham, then cut it through its thickness; empty it out and fill the center with: 
a Bengalian charlotte preparation (No, 3142). Fasten the two parts together again with apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675) and coat it over with the same. Glaze the handle end one-third of the length 
of the ham with chocolate icing to imitate the rind and the other two-thirds with white prunelle icing. 
Stand the ham ona foundation bottom made of frolle paste (No. 136), and on the chocolate end stick 
apiece of pointed wood three-quarters of an inch in diameter by five inches in length; trim the end of 
this with a large paper rosette. Decorate the white part of the ham with almond paste (No. 127) 
flavored with chocolate or pistachio. Leave it to cool perfectly, then coat with jelly. Lay the ham. 
on a small low socle (for this see ham a la Gatti, Fig. 498), and decorate around with chopped jelly 
and croftitons. These cakes can also be made to imitate a salmon (Fig. 521a), a swan (Fig. 723), 
foies-gras_ patty (Fig. 515), boned turkey (Fig. 479) or any other design. 


(3256), QUEEN CAKE (Gateau Reine). 


Beat up a pound of butter with twelve egg-yolks, adding a pound of sugar, a little at a time,, 
half a pound of ground almonds, half a pound of fecula and then seven beaten whites, one quart 
in volume of drained whipped cream, vanilla or lemon flavored, a few candied orange flowers and 
a grain of salt, the cream to be added lastly. Bake in a slack oven ina spiral mold glazed with 
sugar. After the cake is unmolded and cold cover with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and ice with 
maraschino icing (No.-102). No good results can be expected unless good cream is used. 


(3257), ROEDERER CAKE (Gateau Roederer), 


Pound six ounces of almonds and six ounces of pistachios with a little milk to make a fine, 
soft paste. Put one pound of sugar in a basin, slowly add sixteen whole eggs, and beat until very 
light, heating it slightly on hot embers or on a very slow fire; put in the almond paste and con- 
tinue beating for a few moments longer, then mix in with a small skimmer three-quarters of a 
pound of rice flour and lastly half a pound of melted butter. Butter a pound cake mold, line it 
with paper and fill it three-quarters full with the preparation; push into a very slack oven to cook 
for an hour and a quarter. When done remove and invert it on a grate to cool, then 
detach the cake from the paper and cut it across in two: fill it with some Bavarian cream (No. 
3135), into which mix three ounces of pistachios pounded with a little vanilla syrup; cover the 
entire cake with hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675); coat it with pistachio fondant (No. 58) and 


942 THE EPICUREAN. 


bestrew immediately with finely shredded green pistachios; let the fondant dry, then slide the 
cake on a lace-paper covered board or dish and surround the base with a row of small cream 
cakes (No. 3295), glazed with sugar cooked to ‘‘crack” (No. 171) and sprinkled with shredded 


pistachios. 


(3258). SAND CAKE (Gateau Sable). 


Mix twelve ounces of powdered sugar and four ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) in a basin 
with sixteen egg-yolks; beat until light, then add halfa pound of flour and half a pound of fecula, 
sifted together, one pound of melted butter, and lastly the sixteen beaten whites; bake this ina 
slack oven in apound cake or manqué mold, buttered and lined with paper, and when done to per- 
fection take it out and invert on a grate to cool. Then cover the cake with well-reduced apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675) and ice over with water icing flavored with rum (No. 102). Decorate with 
candied fruits and dress on a dish covered with lace paper. 


(3259), SAVARIN A LA VALENCE (Savarin & la Valence). 


Butter a medium-sized Savarin mold, dredge the bottom with cut-up almonds and fill it half 
full with Savarin paste (No. 148) into which has been incorporated candied orange peel cut in the 
shape of small dice. Let it rise in a mild temperature until it reaches the edges, then bake in a 
slack oven. As soon as it is done remove from the oven, pare it even and unmold on a grate; 
pour some orange syrup over, cover with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and glaze with fondant 
(No. 58), flavored with orange. When the icing is cold slip the Savarin on to a bottom made of 
office paste (No. 148) covered with green sugar (No. 172), and dress it on adish. Decorate the top 
of the cake with a wreath of angelica lozenges and cherries (demi-sucre); fill the center with 
Chantilly cream (No. 50) flavored with orange sugar (No. 3165) and place on top a light sugar 
sultana (No. 3193), then serve. 


(3260). SPONGE CAKE (Biscuit Léger), 


Set into a basin fourteen whole eggs, two separate yolks, one pound of sugar and the peel of a 
lemon; beat in such a way as to have a very light composition while heating it slightly; in order to 
obtain the desired lightness it will be necessary to beat for at least thirty to forty minutes, then 
carefully mix in one pound of flour. With this fill a pound cake or ‘‘ manqué” mold three-quarters 
full, having it buttered and glazed with sugar and fecula, half of each; bake in a slack oven. In- 
vert the cake as soon as done on a grate, let get thoroughly cold, then bestrew with icing sugar and 
dress onadish. This cake may be served plain, without icing, simply bestrewing vanilla sugar 
(No. 3165) over it. 


(3261). ST. HONORE AND ST, HONORE SULTANA (St. Honoré et St. Honoré Sultane), 


Roll out some very fine short paste (No. 185) to obtain a flat three-sixteenths of an inch in 
thickness and eight inches in diameter; lay it on a round baking pan dampened with water, prick 
it all over and with a pocket furnished with a half-inch diameter socket push flat on the edges of 
this a heavy string of cream cake paste (No. 182). Egg over twice and bake in a slack oven for 
ten to fifteen minutes. Dress on another tart plate sixteen small round cream cakes (No. 
3294), three-quarters of an inch in diameter; egg over and bake them in a moderate oven, then 
detach from the plate by slipping a knife underneath. Peel two oranges, divide them in sections, 
leaving on only the fine skin covering the pulp, being careful not to break it, and range them on a 
grate to dry, either in the air or in a heater. Wash in hot water some candied fruits, such as 
cherries, apricots, angelica and pears; wipe dry and cut the apricots in four, the angelica in lozenges, 
the pears in four and leave the cherries whole; have also some loose green grapes, eight pieces of 
each kind of fruit. Cook some sugar to ‘‘ crack” (No. 171); first dip in the cream cakes and 
arrange them on an oiled baking tin, then drain; proceed the same with the oranges, grapes, 
apricots, angelica, cherries, pears, etc. On the band fasten the cream cakes with sugar cooked to 
‘‘crack ;” on top of these place a row of quartered oranges, on each quartered orange a glazed 
cherry, and between each one of the sections place an angelica lozenge or one of the grapes; slip 
on a dish covered with lace paper. Fill the St. Honoré with St. Honoré cream (No. 49), and serve. 

St. Honoré Sultana.—Replace the St. Honoré cream by a vanilla bavarois cream (No. 3135) with 


plenty of whipped cream, and over the fruits place a spun sugar sultana theshape of an ogive (No. 
3193), and around quarters of apricots and pears, both glazed. 











4 


LARGE CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. — 943 


(8262), STRAWBERRY SHORT CAKE (GAteau aux Fraises), 


Place in a basin six ounces of butter with ten ounces of sugar; beat both well together until 
a creamy preparation is obtained, then add three eggs, one at a time, two gills of milk and vanilla 
flavoring. After the whole has been well mixed pour in a pound of sifted flour into which has 
been added a coffeespoonful of baking powder. Have some round flat molds seven and a half inches 
in diameter and the edges raised to three-eighths of an inch high; butter and flour these over, then 
fill them to the top with the mixture and bake in a briskoven. Unmold on a grate as soon as they 
are done and leave stand till cold; cover each one of these layers of cake with a vanilla pastry 
cream (No. 46), and on it arrange very fine, ripe strawberries, one next to the other; bestrew with 
sugar and lay two of these garnished cakes one on top of the other; put on a dish and cover the 
cake with sweetened whipped cream (No. 50), flavored with vanilla and pushed through a pocket. 


(8263). FAVART CAKE (Gateau Favart), 


Whip sixteen eggs in a basin with one pound of powdered sugar and two ounces of vanilla sugar 
(No. 3165); beat till very light while heating slightly, then stir in with a spoon one pound of sifted 
flour and later three-quarters of a pound of melted butter. Butter a hexagonal mold (Fig. 139) 
with clarified butter, flour it over and fill it three-quarters full with the preparation. Bake in a 
slow oven; when done, unmold on a grate and when thoroughly cold cover with peach marmalade 
(No. 3675), ice with kirsch icing (No. 102), dredging the top with chopped burnt almonds and some 
small one-eighth inch squares of angelica and citron. 


(3264), VACHERIN CAKE WITH CREAM (Gateau Vacherin & la Oréme), 


Cut three or four rounds of white paper seven inches in diameter; on the edges of these 
push through a socket pocket some meringue (No. 140), to form a ring an inch wide and of the 
same height; smooth the surfaces of the meringue on both top and sides with the blade of a knife, 
bestrew with fine sugar and stand each one on a board dampened with water; dry the meringue in 
a slack oven without letting attain color. After these rings have been removed invert them on 
baking sheets and replace them in the oven for ten minutes to dry the meringue that has remained 





soft, then stand for twenty-four hours in a warm closet. Arrange these rings on top of each other 
on a layer of frolle paste (No. 136) cut exactly the same dimensions, and cover each one with 
meringue made of cooked sugar (No. 140), to fasten them together; mask the entire inside with a 
thin layer of the same meringue; smooth it quickly and dry for two hours in a warm closet. After 
the meringue is quite cold cover it superficially with a brush dipped in reduced apricot marmalade 
(No. 3675), not having it too thick; dry this in the air, then decorate the upper ring with a chain 
of small rings a quarter of an inch thick made of lady finger paste (No. 3377), also to be covered 
with the marmalade. Fill the center of these small rings with quince jelly (No. 3672) or currant 
jelly (No. 3670). Slip the cake on a folded napkin and at the last moment cover with whipped 
cream flavored with vanilla (No. 50). 


(3265), VALENTINE CAKE WITH RUM (Gateau Valentin au Rhum), 


Crush one pound of almonds with one pound of sugar and three eggs; make it into a very 
fine paste; put it into a basin and dilute gradually with thirteen eggs and one gill of rum; beat 
well until perfectly light. Line a mold with very thin sweet paste (No. 136); fill it three-quarters 
full with the preparation and strew over some finely cut-up almonds. Bake in a very slack oven 
for three-quarters of an hour, then turn the cake out on a grate and allow to cool; when cold glaze 
with a light frosting flavored with rum. This cake can be kept for several months if wrapped in 


tin-foil and left in a dry cool place. 


944 THE EPICUREAN. 


BREAKFAST CAKES (Gateaux de Déjeuner), 


(3266). BISCUITS (Biscuits), 


Sift one.pound of flour on a table, divide it into four parts, and take one of these to make 
the leaven by making a circle with the flour and diluting half an ounce of compressed yeast with a 


little tepid water, then mix to make a soft paste; shape this leaven into a ball and cut a cross on - 


top; lay it in a deep vessel and cover, leaving it to rise to double its height. Makea hollow in the 


center of the remaining flour, lay in it two ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, seven whole eggs and — 
two volks; mix well together to form a paste, working it well so that it obtains considerable body, © 


and then incorporate three ounces of butter. As soon as the leaven isready mix it well but lightly 


into the paste, then lay it in a vessel and cover tolet it rise to double itsvolume. Afterwardknead . 


it and with it fill some tin or sheet-iron half cylindrical molds, three and a half inches in diameter 
by twelve inches long, and previously buttered. Leave them until the dough rises as high as the 
level of the edges, then set these molds in the oven so the biscuits bake all alike to a fine golden 
color. Unmold them as soon as they are done and cut them across in quarter-inch slices; range 
.these on tins and push into a slack oven to brown slightly. 


(3267), CINNAMON BISCUITS (Biscuits & la Canelle), 


The proportion for these is one pound of flour, half an ounce of compressed yeast, four ounces 
of sugar and one grain of salt, seven whole eggs and two yolks. ‘With these ingredients prepare a. 
dough the same as for biscuits (No. 3266). As soon as it is risen properly lay it in a long, square- 
shaped mold four inches wide, four inches deep and twelve inches long; fill it three-quarters full 
and let the dough rise to the level of the edges, then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes.. 
As soon as done unmold and when cold cut it up into slices five-sixteenths of an inch thick by 
three inches long and one and a quarter inches wide. Range these ona baking tin; sprinkle the 
tops lightly with sugar to which has been added a little ground cinnamon; place in a slack oven 
and let glaze to a fine golden brown. 


(3268), FLUTES OF BRIOCHE (Flites en Brioche). 


Take some brioche paste (No. 130) hardened on ice; divide it into two-ounce pieces and roll 
each of these into a string on the:table, having them six ‘to seven inches long; range them at once 
on a baking sheet at short distances apart’ and egg them over twice, then cook in a hot oven, and 
when removed pass- a knife under to detach them*from the sheet. 


(3269), BRIOOHES FOR BREAKFAST (Brioches Pour le Déjeuner). 


Small brioches can be baked in small channeled molds or else simply laid ona baking pan. In 
both cases they must be rolled into balls. Have some raised brioche paste (No. 180) that has been 
hardened on the ice; invert it on a floured table and shape it into large rolls; cut these across into 
equal pieces and mold them into balls with the hands; lay them at some distance apart on ‘tins or 
else each one in a separate mold; flatten down the center with a damp-finger and introduce into 
this cavity a small piece of the same dough molded the shape of a comma; this is to form the head 
of the brioche. Let the dough rest for ten minutes, then egg over the brioches and bake them for 


twenty minutes in a brisk but not too fierce oven; after removing keep ‘them for ten minutes at. 


the entrance of the oven before serving. 


(3270). ENGLISH BUNS AND HOT CROSS BUNS (Buns Anglaises et Oross Buns Chaudes), 


Buns.—Sift a pound of flour on the table and with a fourth part of it prepare a soft leaven by 
forming a hollow or hole in the center and pouring in three-quarters of an ounce of yeast dis- 
solved in a little tepid water; shape it into a ball, score a cross on top, and lay it aside till it has 
risen to double its size. Make a hole in the center of the remainder of the flour, place in it three 
ounces of sugar, half an ounce of salt, three ounces of butter and four eggs; mix these ingredients 
well together, incorporating the flour gradually, and adding two and a half gills of milk; continue 
to stir, obtaining a soft and not very consistent paste; knead this well for a few moments to let 
acquire a body, then put with itfour ounces of currants that have been cleansed and washed several 
times in warm water; also add the leaven, but knead it slightly only. As soon as finished lay the paste 











BREAKFAST CAKES. | 945: 


In a bowl, cover with a cloth and let rise ina mild temperature until it is a third larger than its. 
original size, then turn it over on the floured table and refold it on itself two or three times; break 
it into pound pieces and roll these into strings three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to cut into 
lengths of an ounce each; mold them into balls, then roll them into oval Shapes; lay them as fast 
as they are done on lightly buttered tins, and‘ leave them in a mild temperature to ec: Opa ara 
and bake in a hot oven. » 55 


Hot Cross Buns.—Prepare the dough exactly as for the English buns, adding when it is finished: 
a pinch of cinnamon and grated nutmeg; shape them into rounds instead of ovals, and egg 
them over once. Just when ready to put in the oven make two opposite incisions on each bun with 
the tip of a knife to form a cross. Bake at once in a hot oven. 


(3271), BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER (Galettes de Sarrasin a la Levure en 
Poudre), 


This paste should be made just when ready to use, in the same proportions and in the same 
manner as the buckwheat cakes with yeast (No. 3272), only suppressing the yeast. When ready 





Fic. 601. Fig. 602. 


divide it into two parts, and incorporate into one of these two tablespoonfuls of baking powder; mix 
thoroughly and cook at once, proceeding exactly as for the others. As soon as the first part is 
exhausted put the same quantity of baking powder into the second part, and proceed precisely as 
for the first. 


(3272) BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH YEAST (Galettes de Sarrasin & la Levure), 


Put a pound of buckwheat flour in a bowl with four ounces of corn flour, two ouncesof sugar 
and a coffeespoonful of salt; dilute all these ingredients with a quart of water, beat the mixture 
well to have it smooth, then add three-quarters of an ounce of. yeast dissolved in a little tepid 
water; when all has been well stirred together cover the vessel with a cloth and keep it in a tem- 
perate place until the dough has risen to double its volume, which will take at least four hours or even 
more; stir with a spoon and work into it two tablespoonfuis of molasses; the paste is now ready. 
Heat a griddle (Fig. 602), and as soon as it is sufficiently hot and smokes rub it over with a cloth and 
butter with clarified butter or lard; pour on enough preparation to form small cakes three and a 
half to four inches in diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick; in order to have them round and 
of equal thickness iron rings beveled on the outside are used. When the cakes are firm enough, 
which will take about two or three minutes, lift up the rings and turn the cakes over to finish 
cooking for two or three minutes longer. Dress them on a very hot covered dish and serve at 
once. 


(3273), FLANNEL OAKES (Galettes Légéres), 


Place in a bowl four ounces of butter and two ounces of sugar; work well together to obtain a 
creamy preparation, then add four whole eggs one by one, and after the eggs are well incorporated 
put in eight ounces of flour and two giils of milk. Have the paste nice and smooth, and just when 
ready to use adda tablespoonful of baking powder mingled with an equal quantity of flour, then 


finish cooking and serve exactly the same as the buckwheat cakes (No. 8272). 


(8274), INDIAN CAKES (Galettes Indiennes), 


Have in a vessel six ounces of wheat flour and four ounces of corn flour sifted together; add 
one ounce of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt and one gill of milk. Mix well in order to obtain a 
smooth running paste, then pour in an ounce anda half of melted butter. Just when ready to 
cook the cakes add to the mixture a teaspoonful of baking powder, already mingled with a tea- 
spoonful of flour, and finish exactly the same as for the buckwheat cakes (No. 3272). When cooked 
dish and set a cover on top, serving them immediately. 


946 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(3275), RICE CAKES (Galettes au Riz), 


Put in a pan four ounces of wheat flour and four ounces of rice flour sifted together; make a 


hollow in the center and lay in two ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, four eggs and one gill of milk; 
work the flour into the liquid and knead it in such a way as to obtain a smooth dough, then add 
another gill of milk and continue to work it until the paste is well mixed, then finally pour in two 
ounces of melted butter and also add half a pint of rice, blanched and cooked till quite soft. Just 
when ready to use work it well with a teaspoonful of baking powder and a teaspoonful of flour, 
and when sufficiently kneaded and the paste is smooth it will be ready. Finish like buckwheat 
cakes (No. 3272). . 


(3276), WHEAT CAKES (Galettes au Froment), 


Mix in a bowl eight ounces of sifted flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a little 
salt, four eggs and two gills of milk; stir all well together to obtain a smooth paste. Beat one tea- 
spoonful of flour with as much baking powder, add it to the other ingredients and when well 
mingled, cook and finish them the same as buckwheat cakes (No. 3272), serving them very hot. 


(3277), COUQUES (Couques), 


Lay a pound of brioche paste (No. 130) in a vessel, place it in the ice-box, working it 
from time to time to give it plenty of body; when this is firm put it on a floured table and divide 
it in two parts; draw them lengthwise to form into strings and cut each of these into fifteen even 
pieces; form all of them into balls and shape them like rolls three and a half inches long; range on 
a baking sheet slightly apart, leave to rise in a mild temperature and when double their volume 
egg over and bake in a good oven. Just when serving open them on one side and insert a little 
good, slightly salted butter. Send to the table very hot. 


(3278), GRISSINIS WITH BUTTER (Grissinis au Beurre), 


Make a hollow in the center of a pound of flour sifted on the table and in it lay half an ounce 
of yeast; dilute with a gill of warm water, working in slowly a little flour in order to have a soft 
paste; cover this with the remainder of the flour, and let rise to double the original height, then 
add a pinch of salt and a gill of barely tepid water; mix thoroughly to obtain a rather consistent 
dough, and finally add two ounces of butter; cover this over with a cloth, and leave it to rise for 
twenty-five minutes, then set it on a floured table and break it up into small half-ounce bits; mold 
these into balls, and leave them to rise for ten minutes before rolling them into strings a quarter 
of an inch in diameter; place them at once on lightly buttered baking tins, and leave to rise once 
more for ten to twelve minutes. As soon as they are ready push into a slow oven to bake to a fine 
golden color. 


(8279). GRISSINIS WITH SUGAR (Grissinis au Sucre), 


Sift a pound of flour on the table, and with a fourth part of it, half an ounce of yeast and a 


little warm milk make a soft leaven; place this in a deep vessel, cover over and let rise to double — 
its height. Forma ring with the remainder of the flour; in the center put one ounce of salt, 


two and a half ounces of sugar, two eggs, and one gill of milk; mix all well together, incorporating 
the flour slowly so as to obtain a rather consistent dough; knead this for a few moments to give it 
body, then add two ounces of butter, and continue to knead until the butter is thoroughly worked in, 


finally adding the prepared leaven. Lay this dough in a vessel to rise to double its height, and then 


place it on a floured table and break it into pieces, having twenty-four of them to the pound; 
lengthen each piece into even-sized strings nine inches long, place on baking sheets, allow to rise, 
egg over twice, and bake in a hot oven. ) 


(3280), OATMEAL; WHEATEN GRITS; HOMINY, BOILED (Farine d’Avoine Broyée et Bouillie; 
Froment Broyé Bouilli; Mais Blanc en Semoule Bouilli), 


Boiled Oatmeal.—Put two quarts of water into a saucepan; add a coffeespoonful of salt and 
set it on the fire; at the first boil drop in three-quarters of a pound of oatmeal, letting it fall like 
rain, and being careful to stir continuously with a spatula, bearing it down on the bottom of the 
saucepan. Remove at the first boil to the side of the range, and let it continue to bubble for 
twenty-five minutes, stirring it at frequent intervals with the spatula. Serve with fresh sweet 
Cream. 


3 
4 
a 
a 






BREAKFAST CAKES. 947 





Wheaten Grits, Boiled.—Wheaten grits are cooked in the same manner and in the same pro- 
portions as the oatmeal. Serve with fresh sweet cream. 


Hominy.—Hominy is prepared exactly the same, using the same proportions as the oatmeal, 
but it only requires twenty minutes’ cooking. Serve fresh sweet cream at the same time. 


(8281), POLISH BLINIS (Blinis & la Polonaise), 


Sift into a pan half a pound of wheat flour, a quarter of a pound of rye flour and half a pound 
of rice fiour; make a hollowin the center. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of yeast with half a 
pint of milk, run it through a sieve into the hollow and incorporate the flour slowly, also 
five or six eggs and half a pound of melted butter, so as to obtain a smooth paste of the same con- 
sistency as a frying batter. Cover the pan with a cloth and keep it in a mild temperature to raise 
the paste to double its original height, and when this is accomplished beat in four egg-whites pre- 
viously beaten to a stiff froth and also the volume of a pint of whipped cream; let this rise 
once more for twenty minutes. Heat twelve small tartlet molds made of tinned sheet iron, two 
and a half to three inches in diameter and half an inch in depth; baste them with melted butter, 
using a brush, and fill them half full with the paste; set them in a very hot oven, and as soon as 
the paste is well seized, remove and baste again with butter, using a brush; turn them over quickly, 
butter them on the other side and return to the oven. When done dress on a hot plate and serve 
at once. These are to be accompanied either with a sauce-boat of sour cream or melted butter; 
they can also be laid on a folded napkin, serving the cream or butter separate. Buckwheat flour 
may be used alone instead of the three other kinds. 


(3282), ECHAUDES (Echaudés), 


Arrange one pound of sifted flour in a circle on the table; in the center lay two ounces of but- 
ter, two ounces of sugar, a well-crushed piece of carbonate of ammonia the size of a hazel-nut, a 
pinch of salt and eight whole eggs; mix all well together, obtaining a very smooth paste, but not 
too firm, working it so that it attains considerable body. Flatten this paste to an inch and a half 
in thickness with the rolling-pin, lay it on a floured tin sheet and leave to rest for two or three 
hours in a cool spot. Invert this paste ona lightly floured table and cut it into pieces; roll each of 
these to form a string an inch and a half in diameter, then divide into three-quarter-inch lengths. 
Lay these cakes on their cut end on a round floured pan cover; boil water in a vessel larger than 
this cover; at the first boil take the water from the fire, invert the cover over and pour boiling 
water on this to detach the pieces of paste; return the vessel to the fire without letting the water 
boil, and shake it about. As soon as the pieces of paste rise to the surface remove them with a 
skimmer and throw into a pan of fresh water, leaving them in for twelve hours, changing the 
water every four hours; then drain, range then at some distance apart in hermetically closed 
hinged baking sheets, and bake in a hot oven for twenty to twenty-five minutes. 


43283), TOASTS, DRY, BUTTERED, DIPPED IN WATER, MILK OR OREAM (Tranches de Pain 
Grillées, Beurrées, Trempées Soit & I’Eau, au Lait ou a la Créme), 

Dry.—Slices of bread cut from square American loaves, about three and a half inches in size 
by three-eighths in thickness, laid on a double broiler and toasted over a low fire, then arranged on 
.v hot plate. 

Buttered.—After the bread is toasted spread one side over with butter. 

Dipped in Water, Milk or Cream.—Toast the bread, then lay the slices in a deep dish and 
moisten sufficiently to cover the bread with hot water, this being called dipped toast; or else with 
hot milk, making milk toast; or hot cream, this being called cream toast. 


(3284), WAFFLES (Gaufres), 


Put half a pound of butter into a vessel with four ounces of sugar and a pinch of salt; beat well 
with a wooden spoon to obtain a creamy mass, then break in eight whole eggs one by one, stirring 
unceasingly, now add a pound of flour and half a pint of milk. Put the waffle irons (Fig. 608) on 

the fire, heat them to a proper degree and grease over with clarified butter, then take four 
 tablespoonfuls of the paste and stir into it a small coffeespoonful of baking powder; pour it into the 
waffle irons, spreading it evenly; close and cook the waffles to a fine golden color, turning the iron 
from time to time. As soon as the waffles are done, pare the edges, take them out and dress on a 
covered dish, serving them very hot. 


948 THE: HPICUREAN: 


(3285), WAFFLES WITH VANILLA—LIGHT (Gaufres Légéres & la Vanille), 


Beat up in a vessel half a pound of partly melted butter, and when creamy mix in slowly seven 
or eight egg-yolks; after the preparation becomes frothy add half a pound of flour, a pinch of sugar, 
a grain of salt and half an ounce of compressed yeast dissolved in two gills of milk; cover the vessel 
and keep it in a mild temperature. When the dough is raised work and let get cold, then incorpo- 
rate into it four or five beaten egg-whites. Heat a deep waffle iron, butter it over with a brush 
dipped in melted butter and putting a spoonful of the paste on one side of the iron only, close and cook 
the waffles over a low fire, turning the iron frequently; when dry and a fine golden color take it out 
of the form and sprinkle fine vanilla sugar (No. 3165) over the top. 


SMALL CAKES FOR ENTREMETS (Petits Gateaux d’Entremets),. 


Cakes ten to a pound. 


(3286), APPLE CAKE (Gateau aux Pommes), 


Prepare a frolle paste (No. 136); keep it in a cool place onice for twenty minutes. Cut about 
fifteen good apples in four, peel, shred them small and cook partially, while tossing them over a 
brisk fire, in a pan with some butter, sugar and vanilla added, then set aside to cool. Roll out two- 
thirds of the paste, not too thin, four inches wide and about the length of the baking sheet on a 
floured table; roll it over the rolling-pin to unroll on a baking sheet and cut it away straight; sur- 
round the edges with a narrow raised rim, and put in a moderate oven to half bake and leave till 
quite cold. Then fill the center with the cooked apples and finish exactly the same as the goose- 
berry cakes (No. 3309). 


(8287). APRICOTS WITH CREAM OF ALMONDS (Abricots 4 la Créme d’Amandes), 


Line a few tartlet molds with fine foundation paste (No. 135); fill them level to the top with 
almond frangipane (No. 44), and lay a well-drained compoted half apricot (No. 3691) over each; 
bake in a moderate oven, and when done and partly cold dress an imitation apricot made of Italian 
meringue (No. 140) on top of each one. Place them again in the oven to dry the meringue, and 


then let cool. When cold glaze over with a yellow rum icing (No. 102), fasten a stalk of angelica — 


into each, and rub each one with a little carmine on cotton to color it. 


(3288), BABAS WITH RUM—SMALL (Petits Babas au Rhum), 


Cut two ounces of candied fruits into small dice, such as citron, orange peel, preserved pears 
and a few cherries; add to them as many currants and raisins well washed in hot water, picked and 
cleaned. Prepare a small baba paste as described in No. 129, and when ready to mold stir in the 
fruits. Butter some small baba molds, fill them half full with the paste, and leave to rise; when 
entirely full push into a hot oven to bake; unmold as soon as done, and dip them into a hot thirty- 
two degree syrup well flavored with vanilla and rum (No. 102). 


(3289), BISCUITS IN CASES WITH CREAM (Biscuits en Caisses & la Oréme), 


Choose eight fresh eggs; break the whites into a basin and the yolks into a bowl; into the 
latter mingle two ounces of powdered sugar flavored with grated lemon peel (No. 3165), and beat it 
up with a spoon until it becomes white; add a grain of salt to the whites, beating them very stiff, 
and mix them slowly with the yolks, sifting four ounces of good flour over the whole; lastly add 
a gill of well-drained whipped cream, and with this preparation fill some oblong paper cases (Fig. 
548) three-quarters full; range them on a thin baking sheet, glaze the surfaces with fine sugar, 
and cook for twenty-five minutes in a slack oven. 


(8290), BANANA BOATS (Bateaux de Bananes), 


Line ten boat-shaped tartlet molds with sweet paste (No. 136), and cook them white. Peel tem 
small, ripe, short bananas, cut off both ends and plunge the fruit into a boiling twenty-five degree 
syrup; remove the pan at once from the fire, and let the bananas cool off in this syrup, then drain. 
Cover the insides of the unmolded boats with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and lay in each one half 
a banana, the rounded surface uppermost, brushing it over several times with vanilla apple syrup; 
garnish both sides with apple jelly (No. 3668). 


ee ne ; 








SMALL CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 949 


(3291), BOATS, PRINTANIER (Bateaux Printaniers), 


Line a dozen boat-shaped tartlet molds with fine foundation paste (No. 135); cook them white 
unmold and leave till cold, then cover the insides with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Strain 
through a fine sieve the pulp of four or five sound oranges, mix, in with their juice two or three 
spoontuls of strawberry pulp, and two or three gills of thick syrup flavored with orange peel (No. 
3165) and a little isinglass added. Stirthe preparation on ice, work it well to a cream, and then 
mix in at once about half a pound of small, very fresh-picked strawberries; roll them well in with 
the above, then take some up with a spoon and fill the small boats, having them well-rounded on 
top; smoth this into a dome and cover with a layer of freshly made apricot marmalade (No. 
3675); let this dry in the air for ten minutes, then decorate the summits quickly with a few spoon- 
fuls of whipped cream pushed through a cornet, having it well drained and only slightly sweetened. 


(8292), CANNELONS ‘A LA OBLESTINE (Cannelons & la Célestine), 


Roll out some puff paste parings (No. 146) one-eighth of an inch thick; cut this into five- 
eighths of an inch wide bands, each fourteen inches long; egg them over, and roll them spirally 
around some cornucopia-shaped molds an inch and a half in diameter and three inches long; as they 
are done set on a baking sheet, then place this ina hot oven. When partly cooked dredge with 
powdered sugar, and finish baking; when cooked unmold and leave to get cold. When serving 
fill each one with whipped cream into which mix some pastry cream with vanilla (No. 46), crushed 
macaroons and currant jelly (No. 3670). 


(3293), CASINOS (Casinos), 


For these cakes take puff paste made at six turns (No. 146), having it an eighth of an inch 
thick; cut half of the rolled-out layer in two-inch in diameter rounds with a channeled pastry 
cutter (Fig. 16), and range them on a slightly dampened baking sheet, then egg over. Divide the 
other half of the layer into the same number of rounds, but only an inch and a half in diameter; 
empty the centers of these with a pastry cutter an inch in diameter so as to form into rings, then 
lay them on top of the rounds; egg over lightiy and decorate the surface of each one with a 
rosette of fine halved almonds burnt with egg-white and sugar, and then bake the cakes in a hot 
oven. When done fill the center holes with orange or quince jelly. 


(3994), OREAM CAKES ICED WITH CHOCOLATE, VANILLA OR COFFEE (Choux & la Oréme 
Glacés au Chocolat, & la Varille ou au Café), 

On a lightly buttered baking sheet lay some small round cream cakes made of cream cake 
paste (No. 132) pushed through a pocket (Fig. 179); egg over and set into a medium oven to cook; 
detach them from the pan as soon as done, and when cold split through the sides and fill with 
vanilla pastry cream (No. 46) and ice over with chocolate, vanilla or coffee fondant (No. 58), the 
same as eclairs. 


(3295), OREAM OAKES WITH BURNT ALMONDS AND GLAZED CREAM OAKES (Choux 
Pralinés et Choux Glacés), 
Lay on a baking sheet about twelve small cream cakes (No. 3296); egg over and lay on each a 
small pinch of shredded or chopped almonds, and cover these with a pinch of powdered sugar; cook 



























































Fic. 605. 


Fic. 603. ; Fie. 604. 
the cakes in a slack oven and when they become cold open and fill them either with apricot mar- 
malade (No. 3675), currant (No. 3670), quince (No. 3672) or apple jelly (No. 3668), or else with 
Chantilly cream (No. 50) or St. Honoré cream (No. 49). 

To Giaze the Cream Cakes take them up one by one and dip the upper parts into sugar cooked to 
“crack” (No. 171), then lay them at once ona wire grate to drain off the surplus sugar. These 
can also be filled with pastry cream (No. 46) flavored with vanilla, orange or orange flower water. 


950 THE: HPICUREAN.S 





(3296), DREAM OAKES WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR ST. HONORE CREAM (Chou a la Cringe 4q 
Fouettée ou Aa la Créme St. Honoré), + 


With some cream cake paste (No.132) pushed through asocket pocket dress on a lightly pa ttereall 
baking sheet some small round cakes, an inch and a half in diameter; cover over with pow- 
dered sugar and leave stand for a few moments, then remove all the sugar that has failed to adhere. 
to the paste; push into a very slack oven to cook. Detach them from the pan as soon as done and 
split open the side to fill with pastry cream (No. 46), or whipped cream flavored with vanilla (No. 
50). They can also be filled through the top by making an opening and placing the cover on. 
upside down. Push a small string of royal icing (No. 101) around the edge all around the opening. 
Dredge over some fine pink colored sugar (No. 172) and fill the insides ie St. Honoré cream (No.. 
49) pushed in through a pocket. 


(3297), CONDE CAKES (Gateaux Condé). 


Mix in a vessel four or five spoonfuls of chopped almonds with an equal quantity of powdered’ 
sugar; wet slowly with egg-whites so as to obtain a thin but not too flowing paste. Roll out some: 
fragments of puff paste (No. 146) into long strips, three and a half inches wide; cover the tops 
with the almond preparation and cut the sides. straight, then cut them across in one-inch wide 
pieces; take them up one at a time on the blade ofa palette knife and range in straight rows on a. 
baking sheet, slightly apart from each other. Besprinkle the cakes with fine sugar and cook ina, — 
slack oven; remove when nicely done by passing a knife under to detach from the pan. 


(8298), CRESCENTS WITH PRESERVES (Croissants aux Confitures), 


In order to make these crescents it is necessary to have two cutters: a round channeled pastry 
cutter (Fig. 16) and a smooth unchanneled pastry cutter the shape of a crescent, but much smaller 
than the first one. Roll out some puff paste made to eight turns (No. 146) into eighth of an inch 
in thickness; from this cut some channeled rounds four inches in diameter and with the same 
pastry cutter cut the rounds into crescent-shaped pieces. Range half of these crescents slightly 
apart from each other on a moist baking sheet and wet the tops over with a brush; empty out those: 
remaining with the small and smooth crescent-shaped pastry cutter and lay them on top of those: 
already prepared so that they cover them exactly; egg over and cook in a brisk oven without 
glazing. When removed press the paste on the empty part and when these crescents are cold glaze 
them lightly with-icing (No. 102), using a brush, and press them on chopped pistachios. Fill the. 
empty place in the crescents with apple jelly (No. 3668) or else apricot marmalade (No. 3675). 


(3299), DARIOLES DUCHESS (Darioles & la Duchesse), 


Have in a vessel one ounce of flour, two whole eggs, six yolks and four ounces of sugar, dilut-- 
ing with one pint of cream; pass the whole through a sieve and add to it six crushed macaroons. 
Line a dozen buttered oloe (No. 1, Fig. 187) with puff paste parings (No. 146); into the bottom of 

each place a little finely cut-up eaudee fruits, fill them with the preparation and on all lay a small 
piece of fresh butter; sift the tops with sugar and bake in a hot oven; when the paste is well 
cooked, unmold on wire grates to cool. 


(3300). DARIOLES WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER (Darioles & Yeau de Fleur d’Oranger), 


Line twelve buttered molds (No. 1, Fig. 187) with puff paste parings (No. 146) rolled out thin.. 
Put into a basin one’ Bi of flour and oe ounces of sugar, dilute with two whole eggs, two table- 
spoonfuls of orange flower water and three gills of milk; stir well and run the preparation through 
a fine colander; use it to fill the molds, putting a sora piece of fresh butter on the: top of each. 
Dredge over wih sugar and bake in the oven, unmolding as soon as they are done. — 


(3301), DARIOLES WITH VANILLA (Darioles & le Vanille) 


Break three eggs in a vessel, beat and add one gill of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), as much flour, 
the same proportion of dried almonds and a grain of salt, diluting with three gills of good milk. 
Butter twelve timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 187) and line them with puff paste parings (No. 
146) and place a small piece of butter on the bottom of each, then fill with the above preparation. 
Lay them on a baking sheet and cook in a slack oven for half an hour: five minutes before taking 
out bestrew the tops with vanilla sugar and allow them to cool off before unmolding. 


SMALL CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 951 


(3302). DARTOIS CAKE WITH APRICOT MARMALADE OR ALMOND CREAM (Gateau D’Artois: 
& la Marmelade d’Abricots ou & la Oréme d’Amandes), 


Roll some puff paste parings (No. 146) into a layer three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness: 
and cut this into two bands, each three inches wide. Lay one of these bands on a baking sheet 
and coyer the center with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) or almond cream (No. 40); moisten the 
edges of the paste with a brush dipped in water, then cover with the second band; pare them 
straight, scallop the edges and mark the band across one and a quarter inches apart with a knife; 
within this space place leaves formed with the tip of the blade of a small knife. Bake in a quick 
oven and when the cake is nearly done dredge with sugar and finish cooking and glazing. Cut it 


_ through the divided sections with a large sharp knife. 


(3303), EOLAIRS, COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE CREAM (Eclairs au Oafé ou au Chocolat): 


Put into a saucepan one pint of water, a pint of milk, half a pound of butter, two 
ounces of sugar and some salt; place it on the fire. When the liquid begins to boil remove the 
saucepan and incorporate into it a pound of sifted flour, mixing it in quickly with a spatula; 
return the saucepan to the fire and continue to work the paste vigorously for a few moments in 
order to dry and have it smooth, and when it detaches from the bottom 
of the saucepan take it off the fire and leave it for a second to fall below 
boiling heat, then incorporate into it slowly two whole eggs, stirring in well 
with the spatula. As these are well mixed add two more, and continue Fia. 606. 
this operation until the paste has absorbed fourteen or sixteen eggs. With this paste fill three- 
quarters full a linen pocket furnished with a three-eighths of an inch diameter socket (Fig.179), and 
lay the eclairs through it three and a half inches long, at short distances from each other, on a 
lightly buttered baking sheet; egg over the tops and cook them in a slow oven. When done take 
them from the baking sheet and split them through the sides, either with a small knife or a pair of 
scissors, and fill them up with vanilla pastry cream (No. 46). Immediately dip them to half their 
depth into chocolate or coffee icing (No. 99) and lay them on a wire grate to drain and dry the. 
icing. Place an instant at the oven door to gloss. 








(3304), EOLATRS, VANILLA CHANTILLY (Eclairs Chantilly a la Vanille), 


Boil two gills of water in a saucepan with a grain of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar and four 
ounces of butter; as soon as the butter rises remove the pan from the fire and incorporate into it: 
five ounces of flour; beat the paste with a spoon until smooth, then stir it once more over a moder- 
ate fire until it detaches from the saucepan; this is called drying; take it off and let get partly cold. 
Then mix into it four or five egg-yolks, one after the other, continuing to stir vigorously, and lastly 
add two ounces more butter. Pour the paste into a pocket (Fig. 179), having a three-eighths of 
an inch socket, and push it on a baking sheet in regular rows of eclairs, each one three inches long 
and a short distance apart; egg over and cook until they become perfectly dry. After removing. 
from the oven detach from the sheet with the blade’ of a thin knife. When the eclairs are 
cold split them through the bottom, open and fill with sweet whipped cream flavored well with 
vanilla (No. 50); cover the tops of the cakes with a little light apricot marmalade (No. 3675) 
with vanilla icing (No. 102). As soon as the cakes are iced range them on a pastry grate, and place 
at the entrance of the oven for a few minutes to glaze. 


(3305), FRANCILLON CAKES (Gateaux Francillon). 


These are prepared with one pound of peeled sweet almonds, fourteen ounces of clarified butter 
kneaded with twenty ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), also four and a half ounces of flour, two 
ounces of fecula, ten or twelve egg-yolks, seven or eight beaten whites, and a grain of salt. Pound. 
the almonds with one egg-white, dilute with a glassful of good milk, and pass through a sieve; put 
the butter into a vessel, and with a spoon beat in the eggs, one at a time. When the whole is creamy 
mix in the sugar, the almonds, the beaten whites, and the sifted flour and fecula. Line a thin 
raised-edge baking sheet with sweet paste (No. 136), pour in the preparation, smooth nicely and bake 
in a slack oven; when unmolded and cold brush apricot marmalade (No. 3675) over the top, and, 
cut it into small cakes without separating the pieces; ice the surface with kirseh icing (No. 102),. 
and detach from each other only when this becomes dry, then dress. 


952 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3306), GALETTES PUFFED AND HALF PUFFED (Galettes Feuilletées et Demi-Feuilletées), 


Arrange a pound of flour in a circle on a table; in the center put a pinch of salt, two ounces 
of butter, and sufficient water to form a smooth but not too consistent paste; leave it for some 
time, then roll it out to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch; on the middle of it place three- 
quarters of a pound of butter, wrap it in the paste, and roll it once more; give five and a half turns 
to this paste, mold it into small balls weighing three ounces, then to a perfect round three-eighths 
of an inch in thickness; lay them on a baking sheet, egg over, trace lines on top to form a lattice 
work, festoon all around with a small kitchen knife, and bake ina medium oven. Half puffed 
galettes are made with puff paste parings (No. 146). 


(3307), GENOESE CAKE—LIGHT (Génoise Légére), 


Put twelve whole eggs and eight yolks into a basin with one pound of sugar, a part of it being 
flavored with vanilla (No. 179); beat together vigorously for twenty minutes on a slow fire, barely 
heating the preparation, and when well beaten and very light mix in lightly one pound of sifted 
flour, using a small skimmer or spoon, then half a pound of melted fresh butter added a little at a 
time. Butter lightly a pan twelve inches long by seven and a half wide and two inches deep; 


glaze it with flour and sugar, half and half, well mixed together and sifted through a sieve. Fill ~ 


the pan three-quarters full with the preparation, lay it in a baking pan and place it in a slack oven 
to bake for forty-five to fifty minutes. As soon as the cake is done, remove and unmold it on a 
wire grate to get cold; afterward cover it lightly with well-reduced peach or apricot jam (No. 3675) 
and ice over with water icing flavored with vanilla (No. 102); place for an instant at the entrance 
of the oven to dry the icing; allow to cool; cut the Genoese cake into oblong pieces and serve. 

This cake can also be made in a round mold and iced exactly the same, decorating the top 
with candied fruits; dress on a round plate ornamented with lace paper. 


(3308), GENOESES WITH CREAM MERINGUED (Génoises & la Créme Meringuées), 


Butter and flour some tartlet molds, fill them with Genoese preparation (No. 3307) and cook 
in a slack oven; unmold as soon as done and when cold hollow out the centers. Fill the cakes 
with a St. Honoré cream preparation (No. 49) flavored with orange; color it lightly with a little 
green; cover this with meringue (No. 140) laid on in beads pushed through a pocket; spread fine 
sugar over this and place in the oven to color the meringue. 


(3309), GOOSEBERRY CAKES AND TARTS (Gateaux et Tartes aux Groseilles Vertes), 


Prepare a tart paste (No. 149) with one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter, 
five ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, three yolks, salt and lemon flavoring. Divide this 
paste into two parts and roll them out separately into oblong layers not too thin; roll one-of these 
on the pin to unroll on a large baking sheet, cutting off the four sides evenly, and edge it with a 
small band of the paste laid on higher, forming a border of half an inch; prick the paste. Cook 
this flat till it is half done in a very slack oven, not allowing it to brown, then take it out and let 
get cold. Fill the hollow as high up as the border with blanched gooseberries without boiling, so 
that they remain whole; smooth them evenly and egg over the raised border. Roll the second flat 
on the rolling-pin and unroll it on top of the other; press down the edges, fastening them together, 
and egg the surface. Lay the baking sheet on top of another and push the two intoa slack oven 
(the second one is to prevent the half-cooked paste from burning). When the top paste is well ea 
remove from the fire and glaze over witha thin layer of fondant flavored with lemon (No. 58); 1 
get cold, then cut the cake into three and a half inch wide strips and these across in such a ae as 
to obtain oblong pieces. Round tarts may be prepared in the same way. 


(3310). GORONFLOTS (Goronflots), 


Butter some small tin hexagonal-shaped molds with clarified butter; fill them about three-quar- 
ters full with Savarin paste (No. 148); stand them in a mild temperature to have the paste rise as 
high as the edge, then cook in a moderate oven. Remove and unmold as soon as done; leave te 
cool and afterward dip each one in a syrup of almond milk (No. 4) with kirsch. 








—_— 


SMALL CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 953 


(3311), JEALOUSIES (Jalousies), 


Roll out some puff paste parings (No. 146) toan eighth of an inch in thickness; cut this into three- 
inch wide bands; lay half of them on a baking sheet and mask the whole length of the center with 
apple marmalade (No. 3674); wet the edges and cover over with the remaining bands, 
scored as follows: Fold the bands in two, cut them from the folded side, this eut to be one inch 
long, the same as the bands for scored favors. Egg the tops, mark them across with the tip of a 
small knife, then bake in a hot oven. After the cakes are done bestrew with powdered sugar, 
return for a moment to the fire to have it melt, then divide the cakes. 


(3312), ROLLED JELLY BISOUIT (Biscuit Roulé & la Gelée), 

To make this cake use lady finger preparation (No. 3377), adding a little melted butter; assoon as 
this is mixed in pour the whole on a paper-covered baking sheet and spread it to a quarter of an inch 
thick layer, then bake in a hot oven; remove when done, detach frcm the paper and cover the sur- 
face of the cake with a layer of currant jelly (No. 3670), then roll it over on itself to form a roll; wrap 
this up in paper and leave to cool. When thoroughly cold undo the paper and stand the cake on a 
wire grate; ice it over with vanilla icing (No. 102). After this becomes very dry cut the cake into cross- 
wise slices, each one three-eighths of an inch thick. The rolled biscuit may also be covered with 
a layer of Condé almond preparation (No. 2), marking it in the places where the cake is to be sliced. 
Set the roll in the oven for an instant to color, then cut the cake in the marked places. 


(3313), LAFAYETTE WITH RUM (Lafayette au Rhum). 

Pound six ounces of almonds with six ounces of sugar to reduce to a powder. then sift it 
through a sieve; place this powder ina basin with six eggs and beat till light, then add one 
tablespoonful of rum, an ounce of flour and four ounces of melted butter. Pour the preparation 
into tartlet molds lined with puff paste parings (No. 146), strew the tops with sugar and bake in a 
hot oven. Oover the tops with a thin layer of icing flavored with rum (No. 102). 


(8314), MADELEINES AND GENOESE MADELEINES (Madeleines et Madeleines Génoises), 


Place in a vessel nine ounces of sugar, nine ounces of warm melted butter, seven ounces of 
flour, five whole eggs, four yolks, two spoonfuls of brandy,'a grain of salt and some sugar flavored 
with lemon peel (No. 3165). Stir the ingredients well with a spoon and ‘heat the preparation for 
two minutes without ceasing to stir, then fill some buttered Madeleine molds two-thirds full; 
bake, them in a slack oven. 


Genoese Madeleines are made with eighteen ounces of sugar, eighteen ounces of flour, eighteen 
ounces of melted butter, eight egg-yolks, eight beaten whites, some chopped lemon peel, four spoon- 
fuls of rum and a grain of salt; fill buttered Madeleine molds, bake, finish and serve as above. 


(3815), COMMERCY MADELEINES (Madeleines de Commercy), 


Have in a bowl one pound of sugar, one pound of flour, ten egg-yolks and the peel of one 
lemon; mix well without beating and add a pound of melted butter and finally eight beaten egg- 
whites. Butter some long shell-shaped molds, flour over and fill three-quarters full with this 
preparation; strew sugar on top and bake in a medium oven. As soon as baked unmold on a 
wire grate and serve when cold. 


(3316), MADELEINES WITH RUM (Madeleines au Rhum), 

Beat half a pound of sugar with six eggs and a tablespoonful of orange flower water; when 
it is slightly frothy add half a pound of sifted flour and half a pound of melted butter. Butter 
and flour three dozen Madeleine molds and fill them three-quarters full with the preparation, strew 
sugar over and bake in a medium oven; unmold at once and ice with rum 
fondant (No. 58). 


(8817), MARILLAN OAKES (Gateaux Marillan), 


Bake a baba in a flat mold having a cover, or else in « tin mold covered 
with another. Moisten the crust lightly with baba syrup ‘No. 3227) and cut 
it two-thirds across without detaching it at the further end; empty the crumbs 
out partly and fill this double crust with flavored whipped cream or else with smooth cooked 
Italian cream (No. 140). The top and around the base of the cake should be covered with 
liquid apricot marmalade (No. 3675) laid on with a brush. 





F 1a. 607, 


954 “oA Pd GU IR BAIN 


. (3318), MARS CAKES (Gateaux Mars), 


Roll out some foundation paste (No. 135) to an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut this inte 
three-inch wide bands and cover these with a layer of ‘almond cream (No. 40) mixed with as much 
vanilla pastry cream (No. 46); bake in a slow oven, and when done and cold mask over with a 
layer of meringue (No. 140), having it three-quarters of an inch thick; smooth the sides and tops well. 
Slit these bands across one inch and a quarter apart with the tip of a small knife and decorate each 
section with halved almonds or thin slices of almonds cut lengthwise and laid on symmetrically in 
imitation of branches, having adry currant between each one. Out the cakes where they have been. 
slit, place them on a baking sheet, dredge with sugar and set into a slack oven to color the merin- 
gue; the bands may be left whole and divided where they were slit while yet hot. 


(8319), NOUGAT OF APRICOTS (Nougat d’Abricots), 


Make a band of brioche paste (No. 130) an eighth of an inch thick and three inches wide; raise up. 
the edges to form a border, fill this entirely with consistent apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and bake in 
a moderate oven; after it is done cover the top with a layer of shredded almonds mixed with white 
of egg and sugar and return it to the oven to color the almonds; as soonas finished take it out and 
cut the cake across in inch pieces, laying them aside on a wire grate to cool. 


(3320), PALMS (Palmiers), 


Have some puff paste made to four turns (No. 146); give it four more, dredging each one with 
sugar; at the very last one roll out the paste to obtain a six-inch wide band and fold this into four on. 
its length, making it join on to the first two that were folded, the two lateral ends being in the center, 
and then another fold doubling up the band. Out this into transversal slices a quarter of an inch 
thick and range them on a baking sheet an inch and a half apart, laying them down flat; sift pow- 
dered sugar over and bake in a medium oven; as soon as done detach from the sheet. 


(8321), PARISIAN CAKES (Gateaux Parisiens), 


Lay a band of puff paste parings (No. 146) three and a half inches wide by twelve inches long on @ 
baking sheet; on the edges place small narrow bands of the same or else twist the edge to form a 
border; fill it with vanilla pastry cream (No. 46); prick the bottom and push into a hot oven. As 
soon as done remove the band and allow to cool. Then cover with a preparation made of very 
lightly beaten royal icing (No. 101) into which shredded almonds have been mixed; dredge over 
with sugar; cut into crosswise slices an inch and a quarter in size; place these on a baking sheet, 
then in the oven to color; remove and stand on a wire grate to get perfectly cold. 


(8322) RICE CAKES (Gateaux au Riz), 


Line a few oval-shaped timbale molds, the size of the mold shown in No. 1, Fig. 187, with puff 
paste parings (No. 146); cover the bottoms with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fill up with a mel- 
low rice cooked with cream (No. 160) and flavored with vanilla, finishing it with a few egg-yolks; om 
each place a little butter; push the cakes into the oven, and when done unmold and mask them 
over with a layer of apricot he BO or powder with JOGR Sugar. s 


“ - 


(3323) ROUEN MIRLITONS (Mirlitons de Rouen), 
Beat well together three eggs, two ounces of sugar, a gill of orange flower water and three 
gills of cream; strain the whole through a colander. Pour it into tartlet molds lined with puff 
paste parings (No. 146), dredge with sugar and push carefully into a hot oven to bake. 


(3324), SMALL SAVARINS (Petits Savarins), 


Butter some Savarin molds, dredge shredded almonds on the bottom and fill half full with 
Savarin paste (No. 148); let rise in a mild temperature until the molds are full, then place them 
in a brisk oven to bake; unmold as soon as removed and dip them in a syrup made as follows: 
Into five gills of thirty-two degree cold syrup, add one gill of kirsch, halfa gill of maraschino, halfa 


gill of noyau and half a gill of Curagoa; warm this syrup and then dip in the cakes. When they 
are well soaked place on a wire grate to drain. 





SMALL CAKES FOR ENTREMETS. 95 


yr 


(3325), CAKES STUFFED WITH APRICOT (Gateaux Fourrés a l’Abricot). 


Roll out some puff paste parings (No. 146) to an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut it into rounds 
with a channeled pastry cutter (Fig. 16) two and a quarter inches in diameter. Place half these 
rounds on a moistened baking sheet, fill the centers with well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 
3675), wet over the borders and cover with the remaining rounds, fastening them together; egg over 
twice, mark a rosette on top and push into a brisk oven to bake. Whenthe cakes are almost done 
sift powdered sugar over and finish cooking, allowing the sugar to melt well. 


(3326), ALMONDINE TARTLETS (Tartelettes Amandines), 


Have some tart paste (No. 149) and with it line some tartlet molds; prick the paste and cover 
the bottoms with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Cut up finely four ources of peeled almonds; dry 
them in the oven and then roast to a fine color; when cold pound with half a pound of powdered 
sugar, and pour this into a vessel to beat with a spoon, incorporating into it one egg-yolk and three 
whites, having the whole slightly creamy, then add four ounces of chopped candied peel. Fill the 
lined molds three-quarters full with this preparation, bestrew sugar over the tops and cook 
in a slack oven; glaze well with sugar before removing. 


(8327), APPLE TARTLETS (Tartelettes aux Pommes), 


Line two dozen hollow tartlet molds with fine short paste (No. 135); fill them to half their height 
with apple marmalade (No. 3674) flavored with vanilla, and on each one lay a round piece of apple cut 
out with a plain cutter the same diameter as the tartlet. On each slice of apple put a pinch of 
sugar, then cook ina hot oven. Unmold and cover each one with a thin layer of apricot marma- 
lade (No. 3675). 


Sour Apple Tartlets.—Have some deep tartlet molds and line them with short paste (No. 135), 
then fill three-quarters full with sour apple marmalade. Wet the edges of the tartlets and cover 
with a layer of the same short paste. Egg the surface and lay on each two rounds of parings of puff 
paste cut out with a channeled cutter and of graduating sizes; egg again and bake in a hot 
oven. These tartlets can be used as a garnishing for saddles of venison, etc. 


Sour Apple Marmalade.—Peel and quarter some sour apples, put them in a basin, cover with 
water and cook on a good fire. As soon as done pour them on a sieve to drain well. Strain the 
pulp through a sieve into a basin, add the same weight of sugar and let reduce on the fire fora few 
moments. Pour into jars and leave to cool. 


(8328), BORDELAISE TARTLETS (Tartelettes Bordelaises), 


Pound six ounces of almonds with a pound of sugar; sift it through a sieve, then add to it 
a quarter of a gill of rum and seven egg-whites; beat well together; now put with it three-quarters 
of a pound of flour and three-quarters of a pound of melted butter and lastly fourteen very stiffly 
beaten egg-whites. Line scalloped tartlet molds with sweet paste (No. 136); fill them with the 
preparation, bestrew lightly with sugar and bake in a medium oven. Unmold as soon as done and 
leave till cold, then dress on top of each a rosette of Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with 
vanilla; bestrew with sugar and return the cakes to the oven to color the meringue; garnish 
between the parts of the rosette with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), apple jelly (No. 3668) 
or currant jelly (No. 3670). | 


(3329), CHERRY TARTLETS (Tartelettes aux Cerises), 


Pick the stalks and stones from a few handfuls of fine sour cherries; lay them in a basin, 
strew over sugar and leave to steep. Line two dozen hollow spindle-shaped tartlet molds with 
foundation paste (No. 135); fill with the cherries and.bake in a brisk oven; unmold as soon as 
done and leave stand till cold, then cover with a thin layer of currant jelly (No. 3670) dissolved 
in a little syrup. 


(3330), COLUMBIA TARTLETS (Tartelettes & la Columbia), 

Pound four ounces of almonds with five ounces of sugar, afterward adding a gill and a quarter 
of milk; grind the whole to obtain a fine paste, put it into a vessel, add four ounces of sifted flour 
and four very stiffly beaten egg-whites. Line some tartlet molds with parings of puff paste (No. 
146); cover the bottoms with a little apple marmalade (No. 3674), fill with the preparation and 
strew sugar over the tops; bake in a medium oven. 


956 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(3331). DEMONET TARTLETS (Tartelettes 41a Demonet), 


Line a sufficient number of tartlet molds with puff paste parings (No. 146). Put in a saucepan 
four ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter and half a pint of water; set it on the fire and at the 
first boil add half a pound of flour; dry the preparation for one second, then remove from the fire 
and beat in seven or eight eggs singly and a little powdered vanilla and finely chopped citron. 


Cover the bottom of the tartlet molds with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fill them with the - 


above paste pushed through a pocket; lay two small bands of paste on top, crossing them; in each 
triangle place a half cherry; bake in a medium oven. 


(3332), FANOHONNETTE TARTLETS MERINGUED (Tartelettes Fanchonnette Meringuées), 


Lay in a vessel three ounces of sugar and one ounce of sifted flour; beat up with five egg- 
yolks, and dilute with five gills of milk, adding a little vanilla. Pour this into tartlet molds lined 
with puff paste parings (No. 146), and bake in a medium oven. After they are done cover the 
tops with a flat layer of meringue preparation (No. 140) and on this form a rosette or any other 
decoration with more meringue; sprinkle with sugar, and push in the oven for an instant to color. 
When cold garnish the inside cf the decoration with currant jelly (No. 3670). 


(3333), HERISSON TARTLETS (Tartelettes Hérisson), 


Line some oval tartlet molds with puff paste parings (No. 146); fill them with a fanchonnette 
preparation (No. 8332), flavored with kirsch, and bake in a medium oven; as soon as done let 
get cold, then put some Italian meringue (No. 140) on top in a dome form, sticking it all over 
with long thin strips of almonds, sprinkling chopped almonds over all; push into a slack oven te 
color the almonds lightly. 


(8334), PEACH TARTLETS WITH RICE (Tartelettes de Péches au Riz), 


Prepare a fine foundation paste (No. 135); line some tartlet molds, cover the bottoms with a 
little apple marmalade (No. 3674), and fill the molds level to the top with rice with cream flavored 
with vanilla (No. 160), then bake them. As soon as done unmold and lay a compoted half peach 
on top (No. 3691), placing a circle of meringue points all around; bestrew with sugar, and push 
in a slack oven in order to color the meringue lightly, and afterward cover the peaches with a 
light syrup. 


(8335), PELERINE TARTLETS (Tartelettes Pélerines), 


Butter some plain tartlet molds; line them with puff paste parings (No. 146), and fill with 
almond cream (No. 40), and pastry cream (No. 46), half of each; cover witha flat of the same paste; 
cook, unmold, turn them over, and spread with a thin layer of Condé preparation (No. 2); push 
into the oven, bake and serve. 


(8336). VALENCIA TARTLETS (Tartelettes de Valence), 


Crush six ounces of almonds with six ounces of sugar and a few spoonfuls of orange flower — 


water to make it into a paste; add to this two ounces of very finely cut-up orange peel, and five 
stiffly beaten egg-whites; with this preparation fill some tartlet molds lined with puff paste parings 
(No. 146); dredge lightly with sugar, and bake in a medium oven. Unmold as soon as done, and 
when cold ice the tops with orange fondant (No. 58); decorate the surfaces with a rosette made of 
bits of orange peel, laying a preserved cherry in the center. | 


(3337), VARIEGATED FRUIT TARTLETS (Tartelettes aux Fruits Variés). 


Have some molds lined with fine short paste (No. 135); prick and put into the bottom a layer 
of apple marmalade (No. 3674), and over some halved apricots or peaches or a round slice of pear 
or any other cooked fruit, drained and wiped dry. Bake the tartlets in a hot oven, and after 
removing, unmold and leave till cold. Then cover with a thin layer of of apricot marmalade (No. 
8075) diluted with a little syrup. | | 





eT Ss —/~ © 


THEA CAKES. 957 


(38338), WELLS OF LOVE (Puits d'Amour), 


Roll out some six-turn puff paste (No. 146) to the thickness of three-sixteenths of an inch; 
cut it out with a two-inch diameter channeled pastry cutter, and lay these rounds on a bak- 
ing sheet, putting it aside in the ice-box for a few moments to set. Now egg over and mark a. 
round in the center with a small plain cutter an inch in diameter, and bake in a hot oven. A 
moment before removing bestrew over with powdered sugar, and leave until this is entirely melted 
and glazed. Then empty them at once, and fill the hollow with currant jelly (No. 3670); strew a 
few chopped pistachios over, and place a fine preserved greengage (No. 3679) in the center. 





TEA CAKES (Gateaux Pour le Thé), 


Forty to the Pound. 


(8339), BASEL LECKERLETS (Leckerlets de Bale), 


Pour four pounds of honey into a saucepan and stand it on the range; as soon as it rises 
remove and leave the honey to cool. Arrange five pounds of flour in a circle on the table: in the 
center lay one pound of sugar, one pound of finely cut-up citron, two pounds of chopped almonds, 
one ounce of grated nutmeg, one ounce of ground cinnamon, half an ounce of ground cloves, two gills. 
of kirsch, the chopped peel of two lemons, and one ounce of finely crushed carbonate of ammonia. 
On these ingredients pour the cold honey and mix all together, working the flour in slowly to form, 
it into a smooth, firm paste; leave this in a cool spot to rest for two hours; then roll it with the 
rolling-pin into flats three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; spread these on slightly buttered baking 
sheets, and bake ina hot oven. As soon as done remove and allow to cool, then ice them over 
with cooked icing (No. 102) flavored with orange flower water, applying it with a brush; when the. 
icing is dry cut the flats into small cakes two and a half inches long by three-quarters of an inch 
wide. 


(3340), BUTTER PATIENCES (Patiences au Beurre). 


Beat up with a spatula half a pound of butter and half a pound of sugar with a pinch of salt 
to make a not too light preparation; add eight eggs, one by one, the peel of a lemon, and 
lastly one pound of flour, and mix well. Put this paste into a pocket (Fig. 179) furnished with a 
quarter-inch thick channeled socket and range it in small biscuits two and a half inches long and 
one inch apart on a buttered sheet, then bake in a hot oven. 


(8341), CATS’ TONGUES WITH BUTTER (Langues de Chat au Beurre), 

Work ten ounces of butter to a cream with eight ounces of sugar and two ounces of vanilla 
sugar (No. 3165); add slowly eight egg-whites and finally eight ounces of flour. Range this paste- 
on a slightly buttered baking sheet in the shape of three-inch length biscuits, keeping them at a 
short distance from each other; bake in a hot oven. 


(3342), CATS’ TONGUES WITH CREAM (Langues de Chat & la Créme), 

Place in a vessel eight ounces of flour, eight ounces of powdered sugar and two ounces of 
vanilla sugar (No. 3165); dilute with three gills of rich cream and make a smooth paste, then add 
six partly whipped egg-whites. Dress this paste on a waxed baking sheet in the shape of small 
biscuits, each three inches long, pushing them through a quarter-inch diameter socket; bake 
slowly in the oven. 


(3343), COCOANUT CROWNS WITH CHERRIES (Couronnes de Noix de Coco aux Cerises), 

Mix together one pound of grated cocoanut, a quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of 
sugar, three whole eggs and two ounces of flour; make this into a paste then leave it In the 
ice-box for one hour. Afterward mold this paste by hand into balls an inch in diameter, lay them 
on a buttered and floured baking sheet, flatten them a little, egg over, place in the center a pre~ 
served cherry and bake in a hot oven. 


958 THIE EPICUREAN. 


(3344), CROQUETS (Croquets), 


Put one pound of flour on the table, make a hollow in the center and into it lay half a pound 
of butter, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of chopped almonds, the grated peel of a lemon, — 
four eggs and two spoonfuls of rum; mix well to obtain a smooth paste; leave this in some cool 
place to rest for one hour. Then roll it into two-inch wide bands, having them three-eighths of an 
inch in thickness; lay them on a buttered and floured baking pan, egg over and leave rest again for 
half an hour in a cool place. Mark them with a fork in the shape of small lozenges. Bake them 
in a hot oven, brush them over with thick syrup, and after removing cut the bands across into 
small cakes, each one-half an inch wide. 


(3345), CRUMBLED PASTE CAKES (Gateaux en Pate Fondante), 


Mix slowly with the hands twelve ounces of butter and a pound of flour in such a way as to have 
it crumbling like semolina, then lay it on a table in the shape of a ring and in the center place 
twelve ounces of sugar, six egg-yolks, three eggs, some grated lemon peel and a \grain of salt. 
Mingle the whole simply with the blade of a knife and incorporate this liquid into the crumbled 
flour; work together quickly and roll it into a ball; wrap up in a cloth and leave stand for two 
hours in a very cool place. Lay the paste on a floured table and divide it into small parts; roll 
out each of these pieces into strings four and one-half inches long; curl both extremities of each 
string in two spirals, bring these spirals together so as to form a sort of eye-glass imitation, arrange 
them gradually on a baking-sheet and let them dry for two hours. Then bake in a slack oven. 





t 


(3346), ESPAGNOLETTES (Espagnolettes), 


Break five eggs in a basin, add three-quarters of a pound of sugar and beat together on a slow 
fire to have the whole very light, then put in the grated peel of a lemon and three-quarters of a 
pound of very dry sifted flour. Pour this into a pocket and with it dress the preparation on a 
buttered and floured baking sheet in rounds one inch in diameter; dredge the tops with coarsely 
chopped almonds; turn the baking sheet over quickly to remove the surplus of almonds, bestrew 
with sugar and bake in a very slack oven. 


ee ee eee ee ee, 


(3347), JAPANESE OAKES (Gateaux Japonais), i 


Pound halt a pound of unpeeled almonds with half a pound of sugar; pass it through a sieve, add 
half a pound of flour and mix the whole together. Dress this flour in a crown shape and in the 
center place four ounces of kneaded butter (No. 579) and three or four egg-whites; work the whole to 
obtain a fine smooth paste, then leave it rest for one hour in a very cold place; roll it out toan eighth 
of an inch in thickness and cut this into three-inch wide bands; egg these over and strew with 
chopped-up almonds. Range the bands two by two, one on top of the other, pressing them down 
lightly so they adhere together, then cut them across in small sticks three-quarters of an inch wide; 
lay them on buttered and floured sheets and bake in a hot oven; after removing ice over with a 
brush wet with rum icing (No. 102). 


(3348), JUMBLES (Jumbles). 


Work to a cream one pound of butter with one pound of sugar, add a little grated nutmeg and 
five eggs, one at a time, then a pound and a quarter of flour. Place this preparation in a pocket 
furnished with a channeled socket five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and dress on a buttered sheet 
in the shape of one and a halt inch rounds, keeping them an inch and aquarter apart, then bake 


in a hot oven. As soon as done remove them from the oven and when cool detach at once from. 
the sheet. 


(3349), LOZENGES (Losanges), 


Arrange one pound of flour on the table, lay in the center three-quarters of a pound of butter, 
ten ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, two eggs and two spoonfuls of orange flower water; mix the 
whole to have a smooth paste. Push this through a syringe having a scalloped plate on the end 
into long ribbons one and a half inches wide, and divide these into three-inch long lozenges; lay them 
on a buttered and floured baking sheet and leave in a cool place for half an hour, then bake in a 
hot oven, when cooked brush over with light gum or with a little icing sugar dissolved in mifk. 


TEA CAKES. 959 





(8350), MARQUIS’ HATS (Chapeaux de Marquis), 


Make a paste with a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, eight ounces of sugar, two whole eggs 
two yolks and the peel of a lemon; leave rest in a cool place; roll it out intoa flat one-eighth of ih 
inch thick and from this cut channeled rounds two inches in diameter; egg the edges of them all and 
in the center lay a three-quarter-inch diameter ball made of almond paste (No. 125), incorporating 
into it as much crushed macaroons soaked in maraschino; lift up the edges on the three corners and 
fasten them together on top of the balls; egg over and leave for half an hour in a cool spot, then bake 
in a slack oven. 


(83851), MILANESE (Milanaises), 


- Put four ounces of sugar in a vessel with two egg-yolks and two whole eggs; beat together for 
a moment to obtain a light preparation, then add two heaping spoonfuls of powdered almonds, four 
ounces of melted butter, four spoonfuls of finely cut-up citron and half a pound of flour, stirring 
together well to obtain a smooth paste; leave it in a cool place for half an hour. Roll it out with 
the rolling-pin to a quarter of an inch in thickness ard cut th's into bands, each one two and a half 
inches wide; brush each one with egg-yolks and trace lines on top with a fork; bestrew lightly with 
chopped almonds and cut them across in rectangles five-eighths of an inch thick; lay them on 
a buttered sheet and bake in a quick oven. 


(3352), NANTES (Nantes), 


Arrange a pound of flour in a circle on the table; in the center lay half a pound of sugar, half 
a pound of butter, three eggs and four ounces of candied orange peel and citron, chopped very 
finely; stir well to have a firm and smooth paste, roll it out with a rolling pin to a quarter of an 
inch in thickness and cut this into rounds an inch and a half in diameter; pinch the edges with a 
pastry pinch (Fig. 178) and lay them at once on a buttered and floured baking sheet; garnish the 
centers with a preparation made with an equal quantity of chopped almonds and sugar combined 
with a little egg-white; let rest for an instant in a cool place, then bake in a medium oven. 


(3353), PALAIS DE DAMES WITH VANILLA (Palais de Dames Vanillés), 


Work four ounces of butter to a cream in a vessel: add to it four ounces of sugar partly flavored 
with vanilla (No. 3165), then three whole eggs one by one and lastly four ounces of sifted flour. Dress 
this preparation by means of a pocket (Fig. 179) on a buttered and floured baking sheet and cook in a 
hot oven. After removing glaze over with a brush dipped in vanilla icing (No. 102). 


(8354), PISTACHIO NOUGAT (Nougat de Pistaches). 


Roll out some sweet paste (No. 136) to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; cut it into 
small one and a half inch diameter rounds and brush them around with egg-yolks; dredge all around 
on the brushed part a circle ef chopped burnt almonds (No. 1), then lay them on a buttered baking 
sheet and leave rest for one hour in the ice-box. Bake them in a slack oven and when finished mask 
the centers with apricot jam (No. 3675) and lay over a round piece of preserved apricot; glaze with 
rum and bestrew immediately with shredded pistachios. 


(8355), RIBBONS WITH ALMOND MILK (Rubans au Lait d’Amandes), 


Pound six ounces of almonds with a little milk. Arrange half a pound of sifted flour in a 
circle on the table and in the center lay the pounded almonds, half a pound of sugar, six ounces of 
butter and two egg-yolks; mix all together to have it smooth. Push this paste through a syringe 
on a lightly floured board and form it into long pointed-edge ribbons; cut these in two-inch lengths 
and range them at once on a buttered and floured baking sheet, bake in a hot oven. 


(3356). SCOTCH BREAD (Pain d’Ecosse), 


Roast four ounces of almonds and when cold pound them with half a pound of sugar to reduce 
toa powder and sift through asieve. Arrange on the table in a circle half a pound of flour; 
in the center put the almond powder, four ounces of butter, one egg, one separate yolk and the 
peel of a lemon; mix well to obtain a smooth paste. Form this with the hands into small spindles 
two inches long; range them an inch anda half apart on a buttered and floured baking sheet, 
brush over twice with beaten egg-yolks and leave stand for a minute in a cool place; when ready to 
bake split them in two lengthwise and push into a brisk oven. 


960 THE EPICUREAN. 


(8357), SHAVINGS (Copeaux), 


Partly beat up ten egg-whites; add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of 


orange flower water, and three-quarters of a pound of flour; lay this paste through a pocket fur- — 


nished with an eighth-inch diameter socket or else through a paper cornet, on a waxed baking sheet 
in the shape of ribbons, each four and a half inches long; bake in a brisk oven, and as soon as 


done detach from the sheet and roll them spirally around small rollers three-eighths of an inch in 


diameter, removing them as fast as they get the proper shape. 


(3358). SUGAR CAKES (Gateaux au Sucre). 


Make a ring with two pounds of flour; in the center place one pound of sugar, half a 
pound of butter, two eggs, four yolks, three-quarters of an ounce of salaratus, a quarter of an 
ounce of dissolved carbonate of ammonia, the peel of alemon and a little milk; mix all well together 
to have a smooth paste; lay this aside in a stone crock, and just when ready to use roll it out very 
thin and cut it into rounds with a two and a half inch diameter channeled pastry cutter (Fig. 16), 
and from the center remove small pieces with a three-quarter of an inch diameter cutter. Range 
these rings on a buttered sheet, and bake in a hot oven. 


(3359), TROUVERE OAKES (GAteaux Trouvére), 


Lay a pound of flour in a circle on the table and in the center place half a pound of butter, 
half a pound of sugar, the peel of one orange and two eggs, also a half-inch ball of carbonate 
of ammonia, having it finely crushed; mix the whole carefully to obtain a smooth and fine 
paste, watching attentively that it does not crumble; let it rest for half an hour, then roll it tc 
three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; cut it into inch and a half diameter rounds with a chan- 
neled pastry cutter, range them on a baking sheet, egg over, and trace lines on top with a fork; 
prick the surfaces and bake in a hot oven. 


(3360), TUILES (Tuiles), 


Crush a pound of almonds with a pound and a quarter of sugar and six egg-whites to obtain a 
paste not too fine; put this into a bowl and beat well to give it body; then add eight beaten egg- 
whites and vanilla flavoring; mix well. Dress this preparation into flat oval macaroons on but- 
tered and floured baking sheets; scatter shredded almonds over, bestrew lightly with powdered 
sugar and bake in a slack oven. As soon as done detach from the sheets, and bend each one around 
a wooden roller. : 


(3361), PARISIAN TUILES (Tuiles Parisiennes), 


Beat four egg-whites to a stiff froth, add seven ounces of sugar, mixing together to form a 
meringue; then put in one ounce of flour and seven ounces of shredded almonds. Dress this 
preparation with a fork into small inch and a half diameter balls on a buttered and floured sheet: 
flatten them to three-eighths of an inch with a fork and bake in a slack oven. As soon as done 
detach and bend on a roller. 


(3362), CHOCOLATE WAFFLES AND OIGARETTE WAFFLES WITH VANILLA—THIN (Gaufres 
Minces au Chocolat et Gaufres Cigarettes & la Vanille), 


Lay six ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, one ounce of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), and four 
ounces of powdered chocolate in a vessel; dilute with four egg-yolks, half a pint of double cream partly 
whipped and four egg-whites also partly whipped. Range this paste with a spoon on a waxed 
baking sheet into very thin round wafers two and a half inches in diameter and bake ina hot oven. 
As soon as done roll them on small wooden sticks half an inch in diameter. 


Cigarette Wafers with Vanilla.—Dilute gradually six ounces of flour, an ounce and a half of 
sugar and half an ounce of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), with two and a half gills of milk and one egg; 
stir to have a smooth and flowing paste, then add an ounce of melted butter. Cook this preparation 
in round, flat wafer irons (Fig. 608), proceeding the same as for No. 3363. When of a fine golden 
color roll them on a small roller three-eighths of an inch in diameter. 






FANCY CAKES. 961 





(3363), WAFERS WITH ALMONDS OR HAZEL-NUTS AND WITH BRANDY—THIN (Gaufres 
Minces aux Amandes ou aux Noisettes et au Cognac), 


Grind eight ounces of peeled sweet almonds with four egg-whites; pound them toa pulp to obtain 
a very fine paste, then add twelve ounces of powdered sugar, part of it flavored with vanilla (No. 
3165) four ounces of flour and two egg-whites. Mix the whole well, and when the paste is quite smooth 
add to it four partly beaten egg-whites. Dress this 
paste in rounds two and a half inches in diameter 
with a spoon on waxed baking tins, and bake in a hot 
oven; when of a fine golden color remove from the tins 
and roll them on half-inch diameter cylinders. 


For Hazel-nut Wafers.—Substitute the same quan- 
tity of roasted nuts for the almonds. 





Rolled Wafers with Brandy.—Lay twelve ounces 
of sifted powdered sugar in a bowl and wet it slowly 
with ten half-beaten egg-whites, then add six ounces of flour and six ounces of corn starch, 
_two ounces of melted butter, and two tablespoonfuls of. brandy. Mix thoroughly to a 
smooth paste; add a pint of milk and stir until a flowing paste is obtained. Heat two flat, round, 
wafer irons (Fig. 608), cover one side with a thin layer of the paste, close the irons, and cook the 
wafers to a fine golden color. Pare the edges as soon as they are done, then roll each one upon 
a small inch-diameter roll. 


Fia. 608. 





FANCY CAKES (Petits Fours), 


Sixty to the Pound. 


(3364), AFRICANS (Africains), 


Make a small lady finger preparation (No. 3377); pour it in a linen bag furnished with a 
quarter of an inch socket, and lay the cakes on paper in the shape of small rounds an inch anda 
quarter in diameter; place this paper on a baking sheet, and bake the cakes ina slow oven. As 
soon as they are done remove them from the sheet and let get cold on the paper, then take the ° 
biscuits off, scoop them out on the flat side, and fill in the empty space with pastry cream (No. 46); 
fasten them together in pairs and dip them entirely in icing (No. 102) flavored with vanilla, rose, 
coffee or chocolate, removing them with a fork. Drain well on a wire grate, then set them at the 
oven door an instant to gloss. 


(8365), AMARETTES (Amarettes). 


Mix fifteen ounces of sweet almonds with one ounce of bitter almonds, a pound of sugar and 
four egg-whites, and crush to make a very fine paste; lay this in a vessel, add two more egg-whites 
and half a pound more sugar; stir well together until the paste is smooth. Mold it with the hands 
into olive shapes, and range them ona baking sheet covered with paper; leave to rest for four hours 
in the heater, then bake in a hot oven. After removing from the fire, and while yet hot, detach 
from the paper, gum over and roll them in finely chopped pistachios, then lay at once on a grate 
and return to the oven to dry the gum. 


(3366), BARCELONNETTES (Barcelonnettes), 


Pound eight ounces of almonds with a pound of sugar, four eggs and a gill of rum; make a 
very fine paste and put it in a vessel to add to it six egg-yolks, one at a time, beating them in 
until the whole becomes very light. Then sift in eight ounces of flour, mixing it in lightly, and 
lastly ten egg-whites whipped to a very stiff froth. Butter some small molds the shape of small 
channeled tartlets; glaze them over with icing sugar and fecula, half of each, and fill them 
three-quarters full with the preparation pushed in through a pocket; scatter chopped almonds over 
the tops, bestrew lightly with powdered sugar, and cook in a very slack oven; unmold as soon as 
done. 


962 THE EPICUREAN. 


(8367), BIRDS’ NESTS (Nids d’Oiseaux). 


Put four egg-whites in a vessel and beat them up with six ounces of icing sugar to obtain a 


rather light icing, then add a pinch of cinnamon and a large handful of citron cut in small sticks, © 


and some shredded almonds, having half of each. Mold this preparation with the hand into inech- 
diameter balls and range them on a buttered and floured baking sheet; press a small roller in the 
center of each to form a hollow in imitation of birds’ nests; dry these for one hour in the heater 
and bake in a very slack oven. After removing fill the centers with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). 
Cover this over with thick kirsch water icing (No. 102) pushed through a cornet, and scatter over 
the top small candies imitating eggs, and a little green sugar (No. 172). 


(3368), HAZEL-NUT BISCUITS (Biscuits aux Noisettes), 


Crush twelve ounces of roasted hazel-nuts with a pound of sugar and three eggs to make a 
very fine paste; lay it in a basin and add half a gill of orange flower water and sixteen egg-yolks, 


one at a time, then beat vigorously until very creamy. Add ten ounces of flour and twelve 


firmly whipped egg-whites. Pour this preparation on'a paper-covered baking sheet; spread it to 
a three-quarters of an inch thick layer and push in aslack oven to cook. Unmold the cake as soon 
as done on a grate and leave in a cool place for a few hours. Then pare it very straight and soak 
it lightly on the under side with Curacgoa; cover the top with reduced apricot marmalade (No, 3675), 
then cut the cake into small lozenge-shapes two inches long and dip them at once in Curagoa 
fondant (No. 58); bestrew with chopped and lightly roasted hazel-nuts. 


(8369). BISCUITS WITH ALMONDS—ICED (Biscuits Glacés aux Amandes), 


Put a pound of sugar in a basin with eight eggs; beat until it is frothy, then add six ounces of 
almonds thoroughly pounded with two egg-yolks and half a gill of maraschino; continue to beat 
until the preparation is quite light, then add eight ounces of rice flour, mixing it in gently, and four 
ounces of melted butter. Pour the preparation on a baking sheet covered with paper, spreading it 





to a layer one inch in thickness, and place this in a slack oven. Turn the cake over on a grate © 


cand keep it in a cool place to rest until the following day. Then wet it over with a brush dipped 
in maraschino; cover the top with a layer of reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and glaze 
it with white fondant (No. 58) flavored with maraschino and at once scatter chopped burnt 
almonds over the entire surface. After the icing is firm cut the cake into small rectangulars 
an inch and a half long and three-quarters of an inch wide. 


(8370). CHOCOLATE CHESTNUTS (Marrons au Chocolat), 


Pound together a pound of almonds and half a pound of sugar to a fine powder and pass it 
through a sieve; put this strained powder back in the mortar and stirring into it twelve to fourteen 
egg-yolks continue to pound until a fine paste is obtained, then lay it on a marble slab and incor- 
porate six ounces of softened chocolate; leave the paste in the ice-box for one hour. Roll into 
strings, cut into small pieces and form these into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter and 
shape them to resemble chestnuts; lay them on a paper-covered baking sheet and leave in a cool 
place for twelve hours. Then cook in a very hot oven and gum them over as soon as removed. 


(3371), COCOANUT KISSES (Meringues Moelleuses aux Noix de Coco). 


Place eight egg-whites free from yolks in a basin, whip until they become a stiff froth, then — 


add with a small spatula one pound of sifted sugar, having part of it flavored with vanilla (No. 
3165), and one pound of grated cocoanut. Weta board thoroughly, cover it with a sheet of paper, 
dampen this lightly and on it range small balls of the preparation one inch in diameter, placing 
them slightly apart. As soon as finished bestrew with powdered sugar and push into a very slack 
oven to cook from eighteen to twenty minutes. After removing lift from the paper and fasten two 
‘by two together. 


(3372). EXQUISITES WITH CHESTNUTS (Exquis aux Marrons), 


Have ready a little firm lady finger paste (No. 3377), and with a pocket furnished with a three- 
eighths of an inch diameter socket dress it into small crowns an inch and a half in diameter, laying 
them on a sheet of paper; bakein a slack oven. When finished detach from the paper and hollow 


cae 


FANCY CAKES. 963 





out the interiors of these crowns slightly on the flat side, then fill them up with chestnut purée; 
fasten together two by two, cover one side with a little apricot marmalade (No. 8675), and ice with 
vanilla fondant (No. 58); bestrew lightly all over with very finely chopped pistachios and with a 
channeled socket placed in a pocket dress in the center of each crown a rosette of Mocha cream. 


(3373), FILBERT CAKES WITH RUM—SMALL (Petits Gateaux d’Avelines au Rhum), 


Roast half a pound of filberts; clean them well by removing their outer reddish skins, then 
pound with three-quarters of a pound of sugar, two eggs and half a gill of rum, making it into quite 
a fine paste; lay this in a vessel and soften it gradually with eight. egg-yolks, continuing to beat 
until it is frothy, then add two ounces of finely shredded citron, four ounces of potato fecula, four 
ounces of melted butter and lastly six firmly beaten egg-whites. Pour. this paste on a buttered 
sheet covered with paper, spread it out to half an inch in thickness and cook in a slow oven. Turn 
the cake over on a grate when done and leave to cool and set until the following day. Pare and 
cut it either in lozenges, oblongs or other shapes; steep each one slightly in Jamaica rum and ice 
over, dipping them into Jamaica rum fondant (No. 58); bestrew the cakes with chopped-up roasted 
filberts. 


(83874), FANCY CAKES—SOFT ‘Petits Fours Moelleux), 


Crush one pound of almonds with a pound and a half of sugar and five egg-whites; let this 
paste be very fine; lay it on a table and add a tablespoonful of strawberry essence and three more 
whites, and beat until it is very smooth and has attained body. Put a part of it in a channeled 
socket pocket and push it on a paper-covered baking sheet into small cakes shaped like an §, 
commas, knobs, etc. Decorate each one with a fancifully cut candied fruit or very white 
almonds and leave to dry in a cool place for four or five hours. Then bake in a hot oven and gum 
as soon as removed. 


(3375), JAVANESES (Javanais), 

Cook a little Genoese preparation (No. 3307) on a baking sheet, having it a quarter of an inch 
thick. Then divide it into two even parts; cover one of these with a layer of Quillet coffee cream (No. 
48) a quarter of an inch thick and lay the other half on top, pressing it down lightly so it will 
adhere to the cream; cover:over with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and place the cake in the ice-box 
toharden the cream. Then cut it out with an oval pastry cutter two and a quarter inches long by 
one inch wide. Glaze these separate cakes with coffee fondaut (No. 58) and in the center of each 
lay a pinch of lightly burnt chopped almonds. 


(8376). LADY'S BOUOHEES WITH STRAWBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES (Bouchées de Dames a 
la Fraise ou & la Framboise). 

Make a little very firm lady finger preparation (No. 3377); lay it through a pocket on paper in 
small inch and a quarter rounds and bake them in a moderate oven. As soon as done and cold 
detach from the paper and hollow each one slightly; fill up this empty space with strawberry or 
raspberry marmalade (No. 3695) and fasten two together; cover with a light layer of the marmalade 
and glaze with raspberry fondant (No. 58). 


(3377), LADY FINGERS (Biscuits 4 la Cuiller), 


Separate the whites from twenty eggs and pour them into a basin; leave the yolks in another ves- 
sel; to these yolks add a pound of powdered sugar, part of it being flavored with vanilla (No. 3165) and 
beat up to make a very light preparation; then put 
in one pound of sifted flour and the twenty whites 
beaten to a stiff froth, stirring the whole lightly to- 
gether. Pour a part of this preparation into a pocket 
(Fig. 179) furnished with a half-inch diameter socket 
and through it push biscuits four and a half 
inches in length, keeping them slightly apart and 
laying them on sheets of paper; bestrew with Fia. 609. 
powdered sugar; put on a baking sheet and leave 
stand a moment until the sugar begins to dissolve, then push it into a moderate oven. As soon 
as they are of a light golden color and the crust begins to harden remove at once from the oven 
and from the baking sheet, then range them on a table till cold. 

Another Recipe is one pound of sugar, twelve eggs, half a pound of flour, a grain of salt, grated 
zest or a spoonful of orange flower water. 


















































964 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3378). LEMON CROWNS (Couronnes au Citron), 


Prepare a very fine paste with ten ounces of almonds, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, apie 
of it flavored with lemon (No. 3165) and five egg-whites; lay this paste on a buttered and floured 
baking sheet in small crowns an inch and three-quarters in diameter, pushing them through a pocket 


with a small three-eighths of an inch channeled socket; leave to dry in the heater for four to five 


hours, and when ready to cook fill the centers with frangipane cream with vanilla (No. 44); dredge 


over this cream with chopped almonds and BOOK in a hot oven. Gum over as soon as done, leave 


to cool and detach from the paper. 


(3379), MACAROONS (Macarons). 


Shell and skin one pound of almonds; pound them with two pounds of sugar, having part of it 
flavored with vanilla (No. 3165) and ten egg-whites; make a smooth but not too fine paste; lay it ina. 
vessel to beat with a spatula until it acquires a body. Have a pocket provided with a half-inch 
diameter socket and push through it macaroons an inch in size, laying them on a paper-covered, 
baking sheet. Moisten the surface with a slightly dampened cloth and cook in a slow oven. 


(3380), ANGELICA MACAROONS.(Macarons d'Angélique), 


Crush one pound of almonds with a pound and a quarter of sugar and seven egg-whites; make. 
a smooth but not too fine paste; place it in a copper basin and heat while stirring continuously 
with a spatula; when warm enough remove it at once from the fire to stir in five ounces of 
finely chopped angelica. Range this paste on a paper-covered baking sheet in small macaroon 
shapes an inch and a quarter in diameter; dampen the surfaces with a slightly wet cloth, powder 
over with sugar and bake in a slack oven. 


(8381), BITTER MACAROONS (Macarons Amers), 


Pound twelve ounces of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds with two pounds of sugar and 
ten to twelve egg-whites; make a paste not too fine but rather soft; work this well to have it 
attain body, then lay it through a pocket into small oval macaroons an inch and a half long on a 
paper-covered baking sheet; dampen with a wet cloth and bestrew with granulated sugar; cook im 
a slack oven. 


(8382) CHOCOLATE MACAROONS WITH NONPAREIL (Macarons au Chocolat 4 la Non- 
pareille), 


With one pound of pounded almonds, two and a quarter pounds of sugar and ten egg-whites: 
make a smooth but not too fine paste; place it in a vessel, incorporating four ounces of cocoa 
softened in a mild oven; mix well, adding two or three egg-whites. Dress this paste on paper 
through a pocket furnished with a socket into small inch-diameter balls; dampen the surfacegjwith 
a wet cloth, then cover with white nonpareil, removing the surplus that has not adhered; put the 
sheet of paper on a baking sheet and cook these macaroons in a slack oven. 


(3383), CREAM MACAROONS IN CASES (Macarons en Caisses & la Créme), 


Form a paste with one pound of pounded almonds, two pounds of sugar, one gill of good rich 
cream, a quarter of a gill of rum, four egg-whites and two orange peels. Put this paste into a ves- 
sel and beat it thoroughly to give it body; then add five very stiffly whipped egg-whites, stirring 
them in gently. Have some small paper cases ready; range them one beside the other, slightly 
apart, on a paper-covered baking sheet; fill them three-quarters full with the preparation, letting it. 
fall through a pocket; bestrew with powdered sugar and cook in a very slack oven. 


(3384), DUTCH MACAROONS (Macarons Hollandais), 


Peel one pound of almonds; pound them with two and a half pounds of icing sugar, part of it 
flavored with vanilla (No. 3165) and add slowly ten egg-whites to obtain a very fine paste; put it 
into a vessel and work to give body. Push it through a pocket on a paper-covered baking sheet: 
into small oval macaroons one inch in length, and keep them in the heater for twelve hours, them 
remove and split them in two with a small kitchen knife and cook in a very slack oven. 





: 
4 
J 
é 


ae «- * at 


FANCY CAKES. 965 





(3385), FANCY MACAROONS (Macarons Fantaisie), 


These macaroons are made with ordinary macaroon paste, the proportions being one pound of 
almonds, two pounds of sugar and twelve to fourteen egg-whites, preparing the paste in the 
manner described in Elementary Methods (No. 138). They can be made in an infinite number of 
_ designs, and among others are the following: 


Angelica Macaroons.—Place the prepared paste in a pocket furnished with a socket (Fig. 179) 
and push through four small macaroons five-eighths of an inch in diameter in a straight line, one 
next to the other, fastening them all together, and decorate the entire line with a stick of angelica, 
then bake. Gum over after they are done, and decorate the ends with two small beads of pink 
icing (No. 102) made with syrup. 

Clover Macaroons.—Dress three rounds the same way but place them in the formof a clover, 
instead of a straight line; decorate with three lozenges of angelica and then bake. Gum over as soon 
as they are taken from the oven and on each bead push a spot of green fondant (No. 58) through a 
‘cornet. 


Orange Macaroons.—Have the same paste dressed in small, long ovals; decorate each one with 
two strips of candied orange peel laid on the bias; cook and gum over. 


Apple Jelly Macaroons.—Make the macaroons an inch and a quarter in diameter, wet over 
and cook. After removing them from the oven form a hole in each with a small roller and fill 
this up with apple jelly (No. 3668). On top dress a bead of white icing (No. 102) pushed through a 
‘cornet. 

Twin Macaroons.—Lay two small macaroons one beside the other in such a way that they 
adhere together.- Wet over and cook. After taking them out of the oven make a hole in the 
center of each with a very small roller. Fill these holes with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and 
cover this with a bead of pistachio fondant (No. 58). 


Currant Jelly Macaroons.—Dress a small macaroon and around it form small beads of the same 
paste; wet and cook. Remove from the oven and make a hole in the center with a small roller and 
fill it up with currant jelly (No. 3670), then cover with raspberry icing (No. 102). Decorate with 
‘small beads of royal icing. 


Network Macaroons.—Dress small oval-shaped macaroons, wet and cook. When done make 
‘an oval hole in the center of each and fill the hollow with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); cover 
this with orange fondant (No. 58) and decorate the fondant with a network of royal icing (No. 101). 

Lyre Macaroons.—Push through the socket in the form of small lyres; at the base of each 
‘one range three small beads; decorate to imitate the strings with small sticks of angelica; wet and 
cook; gum over after taking them out of the oven. 


(8386), HAZEL-NUT MACAROONS (Macarons de Noisettes), 


Lay some hazel-nuts on a raised-edge baking sheet and roast them in the oven; as soon as done 
pour them on a large sieve, rub well to remove their skins and leave to cool. Crush three- 
quarters of a pound of these nuts and a quarter of a pound of almonds with two pounds of sugar 
and eight or ten egg-whites; make a paste the same as for plain macaroons. Put this into a vessel 
and stir well to give it body; then push it through a pocket on paper, dampen with a cloth and 
bake in a warm oven. 


(3387), SOUFFLE MACAROONS (Macarons Souffiés). 


Crush one pound of almonds with two pounds of sugar and eight egg-whites; of this make a 
fine paste; lay it in a vessel and work, to give it body, then mix in lightly twelve very stiffly whip- 
ped egg-whites. Push the preparation through a pocket on paper in the shape of inch and a 
‘quarter long macaroons; bestrew lightly with powdered sugar and cook ina slack oven. When 
done detach from the paper by wetting and fasten the macaroons together two by two with apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675). 


(3388), STRAWBERRY MACAROONS (Macarons & la Fraise), 

Pound together one pound of almonds, two pounds of sugar, five egg-whites and half a gill of 
strawberry spirit; make of it a plain macaroon paste; put this in a vessel and add a few drops of 
‘carmine and four very stiffly beaten egg-whites. Lay the paste through a pocket into small oval- 
Shaped macaroons an inch and three-quarters long on a sheet of paper; dampen with a wet cloth 
and cook them in a slack oven; remove the paper from the baking sheet and leave the macaroons 
to get cold. Detach them from the paper and stick them two by two with strawberry preserves. 


966 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3389), MADRILIANS (Madriliens), 


Line some small tartlet-shaped cake molds with sweet paste (No. 136); mask the insides with 
well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Pound four ounces of almonds with four ounces of sugar, 
two egg-yolks and a few spoonfuls of rich cream; make a soft, fine paste, add to it two ounces of 
orange peel cut in very small dice, and finally two whipped egg-whites. With this fill the 
small molds even with the top, strew crystallized sugar over and bake very slowly in a slack 
oven. 


(3390), MAGICIANS (Magiciennes), 


Prepare three pastes of different tints and flavors; have an almond paste with egg-yolks (No. 


126), another paste made of pistachios the same as for pistachio lozenges (No. 3395), only keeping — 


it a little firmer, and the third of almond paste as for ordinary fancy cakes (No. 124); into this in- 
corporate a little softened cocoa. Roll these pastes separately to three-sixteenths of an inch in: 
thickness and on the chocolate one spread a thin layer of well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675); 
on top of this place the pistachio flat, cover it with more of the same marmalade and lastly put the 
almond flat on top. Slide this on a grate and leave it stand in a cool place for one hour to set, 
afterward cooking it in a hot oven; as soon as done and partly cold ice the cake with vanilla icing 
and divide it into small lozenges. 


(8391), DEMIDOFF MARCHPANES (Massepains Demidoff), 


Chop one pound of almonds finely and pass through a fine sieve; also three ounces of candied 
orange peel. Beat one pound of sugar with ten or eleven egg-whites and make it very light while 
heating gently, then add four ounces of flour, the orange pee: and chopped almonds. Lay this. 
preparation in inch and a quarter diameter rounds on a buttered and floured baking sheet; 
bestrew with chopped almonds, then with powdered sugar and let rest, and then bake in a very 
slack oven. 


(3392) ORANGE MARCHPANES (Massepains a /’Orange). 


Pound a pound of almonds with two and a half pounds of sugar; add twelve egg-whites, one: 
by one; form into a smooth paste. Lay it in a vessel and continue to work until it‘acquires body; 
then add six ounces of finely chopped orange peel; mingle well and dress on buttered and’ 
floured baking sheets in the shape of oval macaroons one and a quarter inches long; bestrew with 
powdered sugar and cook in aslack oven; detach and fasten together two by two with apple: 
jelly (No. 3668) flavored with orange. 


(3393), SOPT MARCHPANES (Massepains Moelleux), 


Crush one pound of almonds with a pound and a half of sugar, having part of it flavored with 
vanilla (No. 3165) and twelve to fourteen egg-yolks; make this into a fine paste. Run it through a 
syringe into channeled bands and decorate these at even distances with lozenges of angelica and a. 
preserved half cherry in the center of each; leave to dry in a mild temperature until the following: 


day, then cook 1n a very hot oven. Gum over when taken from the oven with gum arabic dis- 


solved in water and cut them at once across between the decorations. 


(3394), ITALIAN COFFEE MERINGUES—SMALL (Petites Meringues Italiennes au Café), 


Break seven egg-whites in a basin and beat them on a slow fire with a pound of icing sugar to 
form into a very light and firm meringue, then add to it one good tablespoonful of coffee 
essence, mixing itin lightly. Lay this through a pocket on a paper-covered damp board into small 
meringue shapes and cook in a slack oven. As soon as done fasten them together two by two. 


(3395), PISTACHIO LOZENGES (Losanges aux Pistaches), 


Have two pastes ready; one made of almonds and the other of pistachio nuts, proceeding as- 
explained herewith: Pound one pound of almonds with eighteen ounces of sugar and four or five 
egg-whites, obtaining a rather stiff paste; roll this out with the rolling-pin to a quarter of an inch 
in thickness. Besides this pound fourteen ounces of pistachio nuts with one pound of sugar and 
two ounces of chopped candied orange peel, using sufficient egg-whites to make a fine paste of the 
same consistency as a macaroon paste. Spread the pistachio layer on top of the almond one, slip: 
it on a paper-covered baking sheet and push into a moderate oven to cook. As soon as the cake is 









FANCY CAKES. | 96% 


done remove it from the fire and leave to cool partly, then spread over a coating of royal icing 
(No. 101), dredging the top with shredded pistachios. Cut at once into lozenges two inches long; 
4 range the cakes, one beside the other, on a baking sheet covered with paper and lay them for a 
few moments in the oven to dry the icing. 


i, (3396), PISTACHIO TOURONS (Tourons aux Pistaches), 


: Obtain a fine firm paste with half a pound of pounded almonds, three-quarters of a pound of 
_ sugar and three or four egg-whites. Roli it out to.a quarter of an inch in thickness, then cover 
_ with royal icing (No. 101), into which mix ten ounces of chopped pistachios and half a grated 
orange peel. Out this paste into small sticks each two and a quarter inches long by five-eighths of 
an inch in width; range them on a buttered and floured baking sheet and cook in a slow oven. 


(3397), QUILLETS—SMALL (Petits Quillets), 


Line some small tartlet shape molds with parings of thin puff paste (No. 146), and let rest for 
some time. Mix three parts of cream cake paste (No. 132) with one part of pastry cream 
(No. 46) and with this fill the molds as far as the edges; bestrew the tops lightly with pow- 
dered sugar, then bake in a slack oven. As soon as done turn them out of the molds and leave 
to cool off; scoop out partially and refill with Quillet cream (No. 48). Ice the tops with vanilla 
fondant (No. 58). 


(3398). PIGNON ROCKS WITH WHITE AND PINK ALMONDS (Rochers aux Pignons aux 


Amandes Blanches et Roses), 


Whip eight egg-whites in a basin with a pound of icing sugar, a part to be flavored with vanilla 
(No. 3165); beat over a very slow fire and as soon as it begins to feel light and slightly warm 
take the basin from the fire and continue the beating process until perfectly light, then add one 
pound of pignons, mixing them in gently, or shredded almonds mixed the same. Dress the prepara- 
tion with a fork into balls about an inch in diameter, lay them on waxed baking sheets and bake 
in a very slack oven. For the pink rocks with almonds or pignons mix in the preparation before 
adding the nuts one tablespoonful of spirit of raspberry and a little carmine, then finish as above. 


(8399), ROCKS WITH ORANGEADE (Rochers 4 /’Orangeade), 


Incorporate some icing sugar with three egg-whites to have a rather light icing; add to it four 
ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and half a pound of shredded almonds slightly roasted in the 
oven and a quarter of a pound of thinly sliced candied orange peel. Roll out some sweet paste 
(No. 136) to an eighth of an inch in thickness, divide it into small inch and a half diameter rounds. 
and range these on a buttered baking sheet; on each one lay a ball of the above preparation an 
inch and a quarter in diameter and cook in a slack oven. 


(3400), CHERRY STICKS (Batons aux Cerises). 


Crush one pound of almonds with two pounds and three-quarters of icing sugar, having part of 
it flavored with vanilla (No. 3165) and eight to ten egg-whites; obtain a very fine paste, then spread 
it out three-eighths of an inch in thickness and let rest in a cool place for an hour and a 
half to two hours; cover the flat with a layer of the same paste, softened with more egg-white. 
Divide it into bands, each two and a quarter inches wide, and cut these in crosswise sticks, three 
eighths of an inch in width; decorate each one with four halved cherries, the cut side down, and 
lay them on a baking sheet covered over with paper; bake in a medium oven. 


(3401), VANILLA STIOKS (Batons a la Vanille), 


Beat one pound of almonds with two pounds and three-quarters of icing sugar and a quarter 
of a pound of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), adding seven beaten egg-whites; obtain a very fine paste. Let 
it stand for a few hours in a cool place, then roll it out with the pin to three-eighths of an inch in 
thickness; cover the top with a layer of royal icing (No. 101). Cut this flat into bands two and a 
quarter inches wide, and these into sticks five-eighths of an inch long; lay them at once on a 
baking sheet covered with paper; cook in a very slack oven. 


968 THE EPICUREAN. 











(3402), APRICOT TARTLETS (Tartelettes d’Abricots), 


Pound one pound of almonds with three pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of vanilla s 
(No. 3165) and ten to twelve egg-whites; make a fine and firm paste. Roll this out wit. 
rolling-pin to one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and with it line some small hollow tartlet 
unmold on a baking sheet and let dry well in the heater. Fill the insides of the small - 
with reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and glaze with apricot fondant (No. 58). 


(3403), STRAWBERRY TARTLETS (Tartelettes de Praises), 


Line some oval-shaped small cake molds with a thin coating of almond paste (Nx 
Orush eight ounces of pounded almonds with eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of st 
marmalade (No. 3678), a little maraschino and two egg-whites; make this into a smooth bu 
too fine paste, color it slightly with carmine and incorporate five well-beaten egg-whites into 
has been mixed an ounce of sugar, continuing to beat all the time. Fill the molds to the 
with this, bestrew the surfaces with powdered sugar and cook in a slow oven; unmold when 
cool off and ice over with fondant (No. oe) flavored with strawberry. 


(3404), VENETIANS (Vénitions) 


Chop up a pound of almonds with a quarter of a pound of peeled, dried pistachios, and 
them through a sieve (Fig. 96). Put sixteen egg-yolks into a basin with a pound and a qua 
sugar; beat till a light mixture is obtained, then add the powdered almonds, two ounces of | 
and six firmly beaten egg-whites. Turn this preparation on a baking sheet covered with pap 
three-quarters of an inch thick layers and cook it in a slack oven; when done unmold on a 
‘eaving it there until quite cold. Cover it with a thick layer of apricot marmalade (No. 36 
bestrew with shredded pistachios. As soon as the apricot is hard cut the cake into rectai 
two inches long by one inch wide. 


BAKERY (Boulangerie). 














(8405), BREAD MAKING (Fabrication du Pain), 


Although bread is considered a plain, simple food, yet it plays a very important part on the 
table and in the kitchen work. The preparation it requires in the kitchen, and the labor it demands, 
are almost innumerable, therefore I consider it necessary to give a few suggestions as to the manner 
of manipulating. These suggestions, of course, are only meant as a guide for the skilled practi- 
tioner, for to obtain perfect success in bread making requires both the experience and judgment of 
the workman, and he should always take in consideration, while performing his task, all that stands 
im relation to his work: The season, the weather, the temperature, the quality of the flour em- 
ployed and its strength, the different kinds of flour entering into the mixture, the preparation of 
* the dough, yeasts and ferment, the size of the bread, the quantity of either the first or second 
batch, the nature of the combustible for heating the oven and its capacity. All these are most 
useful points to study and to remember, but can only be learned by practice, from whence experi- 
ence arises. Both the judgment and tact must be utilized if success in bread making be desired. 


(3406), NECESSARY UTENSILS FOR BREAD MAKING (Ustensiles Nécessaires 4 la Fabrication 
du Pain), 


The utensils needed for bread making are few, and generally of a simple kind. A range for 
cooking the potatoes for the ferment and heating the water. An enameled cast-iron pot to cook 
the potatoes. wo twbs, each twenty inches in diameter and thirty inches deep—one to prepare 
the yeast in, the other for the ferment. A pestle for crushing the potatoes used to prepare the 
ferment. A sieve (Fig. 97) to strain the hop water for preparing stock yeast and common yeast. 
A sieve (Fig. 96) for sifting the flour. A strainer for straining the ferment. A poker or long 
iron hook, when the oven is heated by wood, to remove the embers. This is not used in the 
modern ovens heated with coal. A tub or pail to be filled with water into which the mop used for 
cleaning the oven is plunged. A swab or long stick on the end of which a heavy cloth or mop is 
attached. A dipper or tin vessel with a handle, generally holding about two quarts; it is used for 
measuring the water, yeast and ferment. A scraper or polished iron plate, four inches long by five 

(969) 


970 ' THE EPICUREAN. 


and a half inches wide, with a handle; this is used to remove the dough adhering to the sides of the 
kneading trough; it is also used for cutting the dough into pieces. Square wooden boxes, measur- 
ing thirty inches wide by thirty-two inches long and four and a half inches deep in the inside. It 
is in these boxes, either simply dredged over with flour or else covered with a layer of coarse linen, 
that the dough rests after being cut up in all the operations succeeding the molding. Long and 
narrew wooden crown boxes, measuring in the inside sixteen inches wide by four feet ten inches 
long and three and a quarter inches deep. It is in these boxes, after they are covered with a 
layer of coarse linen, that the crowns are placed and left until ready to put in the oven. Long 
strips of coarse linen in proportionate width to the boxes they are intended for. These strips are 
laid in the boxes, and on these the bread rests until ready to be baked. Two hard wood rolling- 
pins, one three feet long and an inch and three-quarters in diameter; the other two feet long and 
five-eighths of an inch in diameter. The longest one is used to split the crowns, and the shortest 
to split the rolls. Zwvo small hard wood boards, four inches long by thirty inches wide and half an 
inch thick on one end, then sloping down to scarcely nothing on the other, on the long side of the 
board. Cover one of these with thin flannel, to be used to remove jockos from the piece of linen, 

to place them on the peel, when sufficiently raised to be put in the oven; the other one remains 
uncovered and is used for raising the rolls from the linen when ready to cook. A rownd board half 


an inch thick and fifteen inches in diameter, furnished with a:-handle; the crowns are inverted from 


the linen on this to transport to the peel, just when ready to place a the oven. Wooden and tron 
peels and a shovel, one five inches wide by forty-one inches long. It is used for putting the 
jockos into the oven. Another of the same length and twenty inches wide is used to put all the 
small rolls and crowns in the oven, also to take them out, as well as the jockos. A third iron peel, 
seven by ten inches in length, is used for putting in and removing the molded loaves and those on 
tins. A shovel for coal, to be wide and quite deep. Baking pans of Russian sheet-iron with high 
sides, sixteen inches long by eight inches wide and three and a half inches deep. These pans are 
used for American two-pound loaves. Others, measuring twenty-four by nineteen inches wide, are 
intended for sweet rolls and muffins. Sheet-iron molds with hinged covers of two different sizes, 
one containing seven pounds of dough as in Fig. 610, for 
TATA AeTE RTT TTT = loaves intended for sandwiches and crusts; the other con- 
| | Hi 7 taining twelve pounds of dough, these loaves to be used 
UA for large croustades, supports and bread-crumbs. Fig. 610 
Fia. 610. | mold contains seven pounds, and is twenty inches long by 
five and a half wide, and five inches deep; at the bottom it is-a quarter of an inch shorter and a 
quarter of an inch narrower than at the top. The other mold must be thirteen inches long by nine 
inches wide, and at the bottom a quarter of an inch shorter and a quarter of an inch narrower 
than at the top; that is, twelve and three-quarters by eight and three-quarters inches. The depth 
should be nine inches. A kneading trough, a large wooden case, generally thirty inches wide at 
the top and twenty-two inches at the bottom, twenty inches deep and eight feet long. 





Wis 


in 





We 


(3407), TO MAKE BREAD (La Fabrication du Pain), 


Bread making is divided into the following operations: The preparation of the stock yeast, 
the yeast, the ferment, the leaven, the dough, the molding and the baking. 


(3408), STOCK YEAST (Fond de Levain), 


Boil five quarts of water. Put in a stone jar five ounces of flour; dilute it with a part of this 
boiling water, sufficient to obtain a very firm paste; put into the remainder of the water one ounce 
of hops; let boil for ten minutes, then remove the liquid from the fire and run it through a fine 
sieve into the stone jar and over the paste. Set this jar in a cool place until the liquid is only 
lukewarm. Then dissolve the paste with the water, and add to it four ounces of malt; cover the 
pot, and leave it in a rather warm temperature for forty-eight hours, where it cannot be disturbed; 
when this time has expired strain the liquid through a sieve into another stone jar. The stock 
yeast is now ready to be used. 


(8409), YEAST (Levure). 


All the utensils used for making yeast and leaven should be kept scrupulously clean, as also 
the tubs. Put fifteen quarts of water into a large pot; set it on the fire and remove it at the first 
boil. Lay two pounds of flour in the bottom of a tub, dilute it with a pint of boiling water and 
make a sufficiently hard paste. Put into the rest of the water in the pot three ounces of hops and 





: 








’ ) : BAKERY. 97} 


let boil for ten minutes, then remove from the fire and strain the boiling liquid at once through 
a fine sieve into the tub and over the paste; set this tub in a cool place and _ leave it till the liquid 
is only lukewarm, then with the hands work the paste well into the water; add immediately one 
quart of barley malt and a quart of stock yeast, mixing all well together. Set the tub in a moder- 
ate temperature and leave without disturbing it while fermenting, which process will take 
place in eighteen to twenty hours. By attending to these elementary details with care a perfect 
baking will ensue. Strain the yeast through a fine sieve into another tub and set this in the ice- 
box, or any cool place, to use as needed for the preparation of the ferment. This yeast will keep 
perfectly good for four days. 


(8410), FERMENT (Ferment), 


Wash seventeen quarts of small potatoes, put them into an enameled iron pot, pouring over 
sufficient cold water to cover; place the pot on the fire, and let them boil uninterruptedly until 
well done, then remove. Throw the potatoes into a large tub, add two and a half pounds of flour, 
mash well together with a pestle to reduce. the whole to a smooth paste, then dilute this paste 
gradually with twenty-two quarts of water, either cold or barely lukewarm, according to the tem- 
perature and season; afterward add five quarts of yeast, and mix the whole well together. “Cover 
the tub with a cloth, and set it in a moderately warm place where there is no danger of its being 
disturbed and leave it until fermentation takes place, which means until it rises to double its 
height and falls again to its normal state. The fermentation should take place in from seven to. 
eight hours. With this quantity of ferment a barrel of flour can be used. 


(3411), LEAVEN (Levain), 


Sift a barrel of flour into one end of the kneading trough; into the other end strain thirty-one 
quarts of ferment through a colander, and work enough of the flour into it to form a dough, not 
too consistent; gather up this dough into a small space in the trough and keep it in position with 
a movable board which answers for a partition; dredge it over with flour, and cover with the lid 
of the trough, then leave it to rise for three hours; at the end of that time the sponge should be 
double its size and ready to fall again; it is then ready for the dough. 


(3412). THE DOUGH (La Pate), 


Remove the supporting board and let the sponge cover a larger space in the trough; pour over 
it twenty-nine quarts of water and three pounds of salt dissolved in a part of the water, then mix 
the whole together until the sponge is well blended; then dredge over the half of the remain- 
ing flour and knead well together with the hands, giving them a vertical rotary movement, going 
and coming from one end to the other of the dough; it should now be rather soft and begin to. 
acquire body. Pour the remainder of the flour in one layer over all the paste and knead it once. 
more, but this time cutting it into small pieces with the hands and superposing these pieces at 
once, one on top of the other; as soon as all the flour is absorbed, then push all of the dough to. 
one end of the trough. Out from the whole of it a piece weighing twenty-five pounds; knead it 
strongly, blowing and beating it forcibly against the sides of the trough, which means to take the 
piece of dough by the two lateral ends, raise them to the height of the chest, stretching out 
the dough and bringing it down heavily against the sides of the trough in such a way as to im- 
prison all the air possible, and give it consistency; repeat the same operation with the remainder 
of the paste. Superpose the pieces of dough as quickly as they are done, one on top of the other, 
at the other end of the trough; repeat this operation a second time, then a third andeven a fourth 
time, until the dough has acquired the desired body, then gather it together into a small space in 
the trough, holding it up with the well-floured board wedged against it. Dredge over lightly 
with flour, cover and leave it to rise for one hour. The dough is then ready to mold. 


(3413), BREAD WITH BUTTER, VARSOVIAN (Pain au Beurre & la Varsovienne), 


Make a small leaven with four ounces of flour, half an ounce of yeast and sufficient warm 
milk to form it into a softish paste; mold it into a ball, lay in a vessel, dredge with flour, cover 
with a cloth and leave it in a mild temperature to raise the leaven to double its size. Sift three- 
quarters of a pound of flour on the table, form a hollow in the center and in it put a pinch of salt, 
five ounces of melted butter and half a gill of milk; make the dough of the same consistency as a 
brioche paste; incorporate the leaven, cutting it up to mix it well with the paste without knead~ 


972 THE BPICURBHAN, 


ing it. Lay this paste in a vessel, dredge with flour, cover with a cloth and leave it to rise in a 
mild temperature. Turn it over on the table when it attains twice its original size; cut it up and 
divide it into pieces; with each of these form a ball an inch and a half in diameter; range them 
on buttered baking sheets at a distance of an inch and a quarter apart and let rise to double their 
size; brush over with egg diluted with milk and bake in a moderate oven. 


(3414), CRESCENTS WITH BUTTER—FINE (Croissants Fins au Beurre), 


Make a rather firm leaven with half an ounce of yeast and six ounces of flour; let it rise in a 
mild tempefature. Arrange twelve ounces of flour in a circle, lay a little salt in the center and 
moisten with a small quantity of milk, adding four ounces of butter; dilute the paste, keeping it 
rather firm, then add the leaven; when this is well mingled lay the paste in a vessel, cover over 
and leave to rise slowly, without any heat; after it is well risen cut it up on a floured table and 
divide it in parts the size of an inch and three-quarters diameter ball; mold each one in a round 
form and flatten with a roller; spread to a thin oval an eighth of an inch in thickness. With the 
left hand take hold of the nearest end and with the right roll the opposite end, then bring the two 
‘ends quickly together at the same time, being careful to draw the paste lightly with the left hand 
so as to keep the cake quite thin; this operation should be deftly and speedily performed. As soon 
as a band is rolled lay it on a baking sheet, ranging it in the shape of a crescent. Leave the paste 


to rise slowly once more, then wet with a brush dipped in water and push into a hot oven; after 


removing dampen the tops with fecula cooked in water to the consistency of a light syrup, apply- 
ing it with a brush; this helps to give gloss to the cakes. 


(8415), CROWNS (Couronnes), 


For twelve crowns: Take thirty-six pounds of dough; divide it into twelve parts of 
three pounds each, and mold all the pieces into separate balls; flatten them to a third of 
their thickness. Lay these in lightly floured boxes and leave them to rise for half an hour; then 
remove them from the boxes and lay them on the table, one by one, to flatten out; roll over in four 
and finally stretch out to the shape of a roll twenty-six inches long. As soon as they are 
done return them to the boxes and leave them to rise for twenty-five to thirty minutes, then take 
‘one of them from its box and lay it on the table; with a wooden rolling-pin, as described in the 
bread-making utensils, split the dough through its whole length without separating it entirely, 
forming a depression along the center an eighth of an inch in thickness, separating the dough on 
‘each side, two and a half inches apart; then take up the furthest edge of the dough, and raising 
it, bring it forward toward yourself in such a manner as to partially envelop the other edge of 
the dough. Bring the two ends together and fasten so as to form a crown. Transfer this into 
another long box. as explained in No. 3406, covered inside with a piece of coarse linen, laying the 
split side underneath; continue to mold all the other balls in a like manner, then cover and leave 
for an hour anda half. As soon as they are suffieiently raised take the round board with a handle, 
as denoted in No. 3406, in the right hand, and lay it on the right of one of the first molded 
crowns, slanting it slightly against the crown; at the same time with the left hand take hold of the 
piece of linen which extends beyond the crown on its left, and with a deft stroke turn the crown 
over ou the board without injuring its shape; transfer this crown on the board and slip it on to 
the peel, then push it at once into the oven. Continue the same operation for all the other crowns 
until they are in the oven and leave them there for thirty to thirty-five minutes. 


(3416). JOCKOS—FRENCH LOAVES (Jockos), 


Lay on the table a part of the dough from the trough; divide it up into pound and a half 
pieces each and mold them into balls as soon as they are weighed; flatten them down to a third of 
their thickness, and range them two inches apart in boxes previously bestrewn with flour. When a 
box is full sprinkle the balls lightly with flour, cover them hermetically by laying another box of 
the same size on top; fill this one the same as the first, and cover in a similar manner, and con- 
tinue this process until there are sufficient of them. Over the last box set an empty one and let 
raise for twenty to twenty-five minutes; take the first ones molded, and with the hands roll and 
pull them out in a way to give them a cylindrical shape, twenty-two inches long; lay these on a 
ded of Indian meal previously spread over one end of the table, and leave them there for a few 
moments—sufficient time to allow the meal to adhere to the dough. Range in a box a long piece of 
coarse linen, the right end extending up two inches against the side of the box; lay on this piece of 
jinen, against this side, one of the rolls of dough, putting the side the meal is on at the bottom; 





eS ee eS ees a Y, 








BAKERY.» . 973 


raise the linen on the left side of the paste in such a manner as to form it into a fold parallel to. 
the roll of dough, to serve as a support, so that the dough when rising does not flatten out, but 
stands up vertically, which helps to give the bread its round shape. Roll out another roll of dough 
to form a second roll, the same as the first; lay it in the meal, and then range it on the piece of 
linen, against the first roll; raise the linen to form a fourth fold to maintain the third roll of dough, 
and continue the same until the box is full. Cover it hermetically, laying another box on top, and 
fill it up the same way; when all the balls have been rolled out let them rest for one hour anda 
half to two hours, according to the temperature and season, or until they rise to a third of their 
original size. Now take the thin covered board, as explained in bread-making utensils, in the 
right hand and insert it sideways on the right of the first roll of molded dough, between the fold 
of linen and the dough; at the same time, with the left hand, take the end of linen on the left of 
the dough, and hold it so that the dough can be rolled over on this board; transport this roll of 
paste, and turn it over on the peel; score four slanting incisions at once on its back, using for this. 
the tip of a small knife, and set it into the oven; continue the operation until all the jockos are in 
the oven, then close it up for fifteen minutes; at the expiration of this time the jockos should be 
baked. Begin taking out the first ones put in, and continue according to the order they were: 
placed in the oven until all are removed. 


(8417), LOAVES IN BOXES AND PANS OF TWO, SEVEN AND TWELVE POUNDS EACH 
(Pains en Boites et en Plaques de Deux, Sept et Douze Livres Chaque), 


For sixteen pan loaves, two pounds each, lay on the table thirty-two pounds of dough, 
cut it into sixteen pieces of two pounds each, and mold them into balls; flatten and range 
them in lightly floured boxes to rise for one-half hour; flatten again and iift up the four 
corners, fold the dough in two, and again in such a way as to form a roll or stick, eight inches 
long by four inches in diameter; lay these as soon as done in pans sixteen by eight inches with. 
raised edges (No. 3406), previously greased over with lard; lay four in each, very close, 
one beside the other, and leave them one hour to rise, then push them into a moderate oven to 
bake for three-quarters of an hour; as soon as they are done remove and turn them out at once. 

For seven-pound loaves to cut up for sandwiches and crofitons, and for twelve-pound loaves. 
for large croustades and bread-crumbs, roll them out, and prepare the same as the two-pound. 
bread, putting seven or twelve pounds of dough into each, according to the size of the mold. 
Butter or grease the molds, close the lids, and let rise for one hour, then push them into the mild- 
est spot in the oven. 

To bake a seven-pound loaf of bread it will take an hour and a quarter; a twelve-pound loaf 
takes about two hours; when done, remove from the oven and unmold. 


(3418), PASTE FOR FINGER ROLLS AND SMALL ROLLS (Pate & Petits Pains). 


The ingredients are one pound of flour, two eggs, three-quarters of a gill of milk, salt, two 
ounces of butter, half an ounce each of sugar and yeast. Make a little leaven with a quarter of the 
flour and the yeast, diluting it with a little warm water; leave this in a vessel, cover and place in a 
temperate place so that it rises to double its height. Lay the balance of the flour on the table; 
make a hollow in the center and in this put a pinch of salt, the sugar and a little tepid milk, then 
the eggs and mix, drawing in the flour gradually and adding the rest of the tepid milk. When all 
is mixed bring the dough together and knead it well, striking it on the table for a few minutes (the 
object of this being to incorporate as much air as possible in the paste); when the paste has plenty 
of body add half the butter to it and continue the kneading until the butter is well worked in, 
then add the rest of the butter and knead again, working the paste a few minutes longer. Now 
put in the leaven, mixing it lightly with the dough, set into a vessel, cover with a cloth, and let it 
rise in a moderate temperature. As soon as this dough is sufficiently raised divide it into pieces of 
a pound each; roll out these into ropes half an inch in diameter, and dividing these ropes into 
twenty equal-sized parts give each one a round shape by rolling them on the table with the palm 
of the hand; roll them out to the shape of small rolls two and three-quarters inches long, pointed 
at both ends, and lay them on a slightly buttered baking sheet, keeping them about one inch 
apart, then leave them to rise in a gentle temperature. As soon as they are sufficiently raised 


brush them over with beaten eggs twice, and bake in a warm oven. 


UTA THE EPICUREAN. 


(3419), FINGER ROLLS (Flites Longues), 


Sift two pounds of flour on the table, divide it into four parts and in one of the quarters form 
a hollow; set into it an ounce and a half of yeast, diluting with a gill and a half of lukewarm 
water; work the flour into the liquid in such a way as to obtain a soft leaven; mold it round 
shape and indent a cross on top; lay it in a vessel into which a few spoonfuls of tepid water have 
been deposited; cover over and let rise to double its size for twelve to fifteen minutes. During 
this time range the balance of the flour in a circle, and lay in the center two ounces of sugar, half 
an ounce of salt, two whole eggs and two and a half gills of barely warm milk; mix the ingredients 
together, and then incorporate gradually all of the flour; the dough must now be consistent; 
knead it well and cut it up with the two hands, and beat it on the table for a few moments so that 
it acquires body; add two ounces of butter and continue kneading for a few minutes longer. As 
soon as the leaven is ready mix in thoroughly with the dough but without kneading again; lay this 
in a basin, sprinkle over lightly with flour, cover and let rise for one hour in a mild temperature. 


At the expiration of that time it should have doubled its original height; knead it once more and — 
divide it into half-pound pieces; divide each into twelve small pieces, obtaining three-quarters of an 


ounce in each one, then mold these into small balls and set to rise for twenty minutes, after- 
ward rolling them out with the hand into four and a half inch lengths; range them at once on a 
lightly buttered baking sheet; when it is full place it in a box and close hermetically; con- 
tinue to prepare and mold the remainder of the dough, and whey all are done examine the first 
ones that were molded, and should they be sufficiently raised, or increased to a third of their 
original size, brush them over with beaten eggs and bake in a hot oven. 


(3420). FLUTES AND SPLIT ROLLS (Flites et Petits Pains Fendus), 


Flutes and split rolls are made with a dough slightly stiffer than for the jockos; generally both 
of these kind of rolls are molded at the same time. Prepare a bread dough as explained before, 
working it exactly the same, the only difference being it must be kept a little stiffer; let it rise for 
one hour; knead it again to stop the fermentation and remove it from the trough to the table. 
Divide it up into two and a half ounce pieces and form them into balls; range these at short dis- 


tances from each other in slightly floured boxes; set the boxes one on top of the other as fast as. 


they are filled and leave them to rise for fifteen to twenty minutes; at the expiration of this time 
the balls are ready to be molded into any shape desired. ) 


For Flutes or French Rolls.—Lay on the table two of the balls of dough, beginning with those 
first molded; flatten them down with the palm of the hand, raise the ends of the dough and press 
these ends together; roll them out on the table with the hands to finish lengthening them, then 
lay at short distances from each other in boxes lightly dredged with white Indian meal. © Continue 
thus until half of the balls are rolled out. Cover these boxes om els one on top of the other 
and leave them to rise for twenty-five to thirty minutes. rr 


ie 


For Split Rolls.—During the time the flutes are rising aie ths remainder of the balls of 
dough. Take six of these balls and range them on the table in rows of two and two,:then with a 
small rolling pin, as described in the article on utensils, split two of them through ‘at the same 
time; take hold of the edge of the farthest side of each piece and bring it forward; wrap it over 
half of the front piece so that the molding is on top and the split side underneath, then take these 
split rolls, one in each hand, and range them against the right side of a box that is already lined 
with a strip of coarse linen, laying the split side underneath; raise up the linen on the left of the 
rolls to form a fold which answers for a support, so that while the rolls are rising they cannot fall 
again. Take six more balls of dough, range them on the table two by two, the same as the first 
ones; split and lay them on the linen against the others, and continue this operation until all the 
rolls are shaped. Cover the boxes as fast as they are filled, and leave them to rise for twenty-five 
to thirty minutes. As soon as all the rolls are split examine the flutes to see whether they are a 
third larger than when molded; if so they are ready to be placed in the oven; brush them over 
with beaten eggs diluted in a little water, using a feather brush; take them up delicately with the 
hands, one by one, and lay them on the peel; cut three slanting incisions on each with the tip of a 
small knife and place them in the oven. As soon as they are all in, close the oven door for ten to 
twelve minutes, according to the degree of heat therein; when a fine golden color take them out, 
beginning with those first put in. By this time the rolls ought to be ready to go in the oven; take 
them from the linen, six at a time, turning them over on to the board, as described in the bread- 


rk ee ae 





eo. 





BAKERY. 975 





making utensils, having the split sides uppermost, removing them exactly the same as the jockos; 
slide them on the peel, and place them in an oven not too hot; as soon as they are all in close 
the door for a few minutes, and when done take them out, beginning with those first put in. 


(8421), SWEET ROLLS, CRESCENTS AND MUFFINS (Petits Pains au Lait et au Beurre, Orois- 
. sants, Muffins), 


How to Prepare the Dough.—Sift eight pounds of flour into a large wooden bowl; make a 
hollow in the center and lay in it three ounces of yeast; diluting with three pints of barely luke- 
warm water, make a soft sponge, sprinkle it over with flour and leave it to rise in a mild tempera- 
ture for three hours, more or less, aceording to the heat, and until the sponge doubles itself, then 
moisten with three pints of milk into which has been dissolved half a pound of sugar and three 
ounces of salt, incorporating at the same time a pound and a half of butter; knead well and divide 
it into small pieces. As soon as it is thoroughly mixed incorporate sufficient flour to make a con- 
sistent dough and knead it well to give it plenty of body. The dough being now finished cut it 
into three parts. 


Sweet Rolls.—Put one of these parts into a vessel, sprinkle it lightly with flour and leave it to 
rise for an hour and a half. 


Crescents. —Take the second piece of dough, put it into a basin and incorporate four ounces of 
butter; work weli so that it is well mixed, then leave it to rise for one hour and a half. 


Muffins.—To the third and last piece add a little milk to soften and obtain a mellow dough, 
keeping it sufficiently firm to be able to mold with the hand on the table; take it out of the bowl, 
dredge the latter with flour and return the dough to it; besprinkle flour over the top, cover and 
leave it to rise, the same as the other two, for one hour and a half. At the expiration of this time 
the three pieces of dough should be raised to double their height. Knead them again to prevent 
fermentation; they are now ready to be divided and molded. 


Sweet Rolls.—Begin with the sweet rolls and operate as follows: Break it into two-ounce pieces; 
roll these into balls and place them as fast as they are done into lightly floured boxes at short dis- 
tances from each other; dredge slightly with flour, cover and leave them to rise for half an hour, 
then roll them over again exactly the same as before, giving them a more perfect spherical shape; 
range these balls as quickly as they are formed into lightly buttered baking sheets with a slight 
space between each, and as soon as the sheets are filled put them into boxes and cover; let 
them now rise from one hour to an hour and a quarter; they should be one-third larger than their 
original size and are then ready to be put into the oven; brush the surfaces with a feather brush 
dipped in beaten eggs, diluted with a little milk; with a pair of scissors make four deep incisions 
so as to form a cross, then push them into a slack oven and let bake for eighteen or twenty 
minutes. 


Crescents.—Crescents are to be molded in the following manner: Lay on the table the buttered 
dough already prepared for these; divide it up into one ounce and a half pieces and roll them into 
balls: set them into the boxes as soon as done, dredge over with rye flour, cover and leave them to 
rise for thirty-five to forty minutes, then lay two of the first molded balls on the table one beside the 
other, a short distance apart, and with the roller used for rolls flatten down the two balls at once, to 
obtain two oval pieces, an eighth of an inch thick, leaving the two furthest sides a little thicker 
than the forward ones, then with the left hand hold the nearest or front one of these flats, and 
with the palm of the right hand roll it over on itself, beginning with the back or thick side, and bring 
it forward to give the shape of a shuttle, six inches long, seven-eighths of an inch in the center and 
one-fourth of an inch at the ends; lay them when finished on a lightly buttered baking sheet, 
giving them the shape of a crescent, and finish the other oval layer the same, continuing until all the 
balls are molded; as fast as each baking sheet is filled put them into the boxes, cover and leave 
for one hour to one hour and a quarter; brush over with beaten eggs diluted in a little milk and 
push them into a slow oven to bake for twelve to fifteen minutes. 


Muffins. Lightly butter three dozen tin muffin rings three anda half inches across and one 
inch high; lay them on two lightly buttered baking sheets. Place the third piece of dough—the 
onesoftened with milk—on the table, cut it into an ounce and three-quarters pieces and roll them all 
into balls; flatten slightly in the middle and lay them at once into the rings; when all are filled 
cover over with two more lightly buttered baking sheets, set a weight on top of each and leave the 


976 THE EPICUREAN. 





dough rise for three-quarters of an hour; push them gently into the oven, sheets, weights end all, 
being careful not to disturb them whatever; they take from twenty to twenty-five minutes to 
bake; turn them out of the rings as soon as they leave the oven. 


(3422), CORN BREAD (Pain de Mais), 


Put four ounces of butter into a tin basin; work it to a cream with four ounces of sugar, add 
a pinch of salt and four eggs singly, also a gill of milk; now sift in one pound of corn flour and 
half a pound of ordinary flour into which has been previously added two coffeespoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and add another gill of milk to finish. Butter some corn-bread molds, fill them three- 
quarters full with the preparation, lay them on baking-sheets and set them in a hot oven to ad 
for twelve to fifteen minutes; unmold them as quickly as they are done and removed. 


(3423), RYE BREAD, BOSTON BROWN BREAD AND GRAHAM BREAD (Pain de Seigle, Pain 
Brun de Boston et Pain de Graham), , 

The dough for rye bread is made exactly as for ordinary bread (see the article on bread dough), 
the only difference being that half rye and. half wheat flour are used; a few caraway seeds may be 7 
added to the dough, mixing them in when the kneading process begins. When the dough is finished. 
and sufficiently raised, cut it into two-pound pieces, turn and roll them out long-shaped and lay 
them in the folds of linen exactly the same as the jockos. Just when ready to put into the oven, 
while still on the peel, dampen the tops with water, using a brush, and cut a few slanting incisions. 
on each one with the tip of a small knife, then set them in the oven to bake for forty-five 
minutes. 


Boston Brown Bread.—Place in a basin two and three-quarter pounds of yellow corn 
meal, two pounds of white corn meal, one and three-quarter pounds of rye flour, one pound of 
Boston meal and an ounce of salt. Dilute these flours with one pint of New Orleans molasses, one 
pint of Potter molasses, one quart of ferment (No. 3410), and. two quarts of water; mix all well 


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together, making a very soft paste, then cover over and leave it in a mild temperature to raise for z 
four hours. Then add three-quarters of an ounce of soda dissolved in a glassful of water and i 
twelve ounces of stale bread sifted through a sieve; mingle all well together. With this paste fill ~ q 
three-quarters full some buttered timbale molds and leave the paste stand for one hour. Coyer — a 
over and place in a very slow oven and let bake for six hours. . nif 


Graham Bread.—Put into a large vessel one and a quarter pounds of wheat flour, one and a 
quarter pounds of Graham flour, a coffeespoonful of salt and half a gill of molasses. Onto these 
ingredients pour one and a quarter pints of leaven, and one and a quarter pints of water. Mix 
all well together forming a dough of the same consistence as for bread; cover and leave it to raise 
for two hours in a mild temperature. Divide the dough into pound and a quarter pieces, mold 
and place each one in buttered molds; let raise again for an hour and a half to two hours, them 
bake in a very slack oven. Graham flour is made of the wheat ground to flour and left unsifted, 
consequently it contains the bran and commoner qualities than other flours. 


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(3424), ICES (Glaces), 


Preliminary Remarks.—We call ice (in general) a solid body, formed naturally or artificially 
from a fluid substance, such as water, oil, etc., frozen to a certain degree. It can also be said to 
be a fluid compressed by the lowering of the temperature to zero. Therefore, ice is nothing but 
crystallized water, lighter than liquid water, as it floats on its surface. In alimentary language 
1¢és are compounded creams or liquors made to freeze. Many books have been written on the 


Subject of ices, and many serious researches have been made, hence it is not our intention to 
(97) 


978 THE EPICUREAN. 


enter into the various details, as they can more easily De learned by consulting these divers wore a 
Still we have considered it our duty to recall ina few words the history of the manufacture of these — 
perfect and delicious refreshments. By going back to the most ancient times we find, especially — 
in southern countries, that they had learned of the benefits to be derived from cool drinks, so we — 
suppose the use of ice was known to the Greeks and Romans, and we read that Hippocrates, the | 
father of medicine, recognized_the impropriety of its use, as well as that of snow. The Orientals 
partook of iced drinks, also the Persians and the Shaniards had vases called alcarazas (in French — 


Gourgourlelles), an earthen vessel without handles, to contain and keep the water cold. 


Therefore, the progress made in the seventeenth century and productive of such vast improvement — 
was but the realization of an idea discovered centuries before; this is plain, for in those days-as. in 
these, they understood the necessity of having within their reach refreshing drinks suitable for - 
the hot seasons of the year. Doubtless they were far from possessing the resources we haveat our | 
disposal to-day as regards material, for it was only at the end of the sixteenth century that the 
use of ice-boxes was first invented; nevertheless, our forefathers learned how to utilize the natural — 
means at theircommand. With the assistance of porous vases exposed to a brisk current of air, — 
also to all the sunlight possible, and by. wrapping them in wet cloths, a sufficient degree of cold 
was obtained to have the value of such a drink appreciated, while suffering from the heat of the 





climate. Later, the people were not satisfied by procuring a temporary cool liquid, but devised 


some other plan by which they could retain the cold they had thus obtained. The only way to 


accomplish this was to transform the liquid drinks into a solid mass—in one word freeze them. The 4 


idea was rational, but chemistry, a science so thoroughly restricted in those days, and only under- 
stood by a few privileged persons, was found to be of very little assistance. However, in one of 
Bacon’s works (a celebrated physician and chemist of the sixteenth century), we find a sentence which 
reads as follows: ‘‘It is evident that salt when mixed with ice for artificial congealments increases 
the action of the cold.” At the end of the sixteenth century, and at the beginning of the seven- 
teenth century, all the physicians of those days devoted themselves to experimenting, and the 
result of their researches was as follows: ‘‘lce and salt are the most active principles for congeal- 
ing, observing at the same time that ammoniacal salt is the most effective, and will produce the 
quickest cooling result.”” Henceforth, the wonderful progress for making ices was rapid, and these 
wise men thought they had at last reached a degree of perfection. They froze liquors in tin and 
leaden boxes, by surrounding them with a powerful refrigerating mixture. These ices, called 
rare ices and served only in sumptuous repasts, were still very imperfect, being nothing 
else than blocks of solid ice, reminding one of the taste of the liquor used in their fabrica- 
tion, but being so remarkably hard that the pleasure of partaking of them was overbalanced by 
the great difficulty in eating them. They therefore endeavored to obtain a result more satis- 
factory to epicures. Réamur was the first person, in the year 1734, to refer to this defect, 
and try to ameliorate its condition. It was observed that if any liquor or fruit juice and sugar be 
added to water in certain proportions and that this mixture be submitted to a sufficient degree of 
cold, the water would be the first to congeal, while the sugars and syrups were the last. This 
defect had to be overcome, therefore they found that by cooking a certain amount of sugar in 
water they produced a syrup which they could afterward weigh. To this syrup they could mix 
the juices of different fruits and freeze the preparation without any fear of the defective results 
they sought to obviate. This was taking a great stride toward a final success, and thereafter 
experience alone sufficed to teach these practitioners how to acquire the best results. Instead of 
leaving the mixture to refrigerate alone in order to congeal the compositions, they endeavored to 
find how to increase the action of the cold by giving a rotary motion, more or less rapid, to the 
receiver in which the operation takes place. This is why they began to employ round, elongated 
vessels, so much easier to manage, and to which they gave the name of sorbotiéres, to-day called 
sorbetiéres or freezers. The round freezer is evidently the best for working the ices, for not only 
does its shape facilitate the rotary movement employed, but this movement also connects with the 
liquid, and while keeping it continually well-mixed, it also keeps the interior sides of the freezer 
covered with all the particles of water, syrup or sugar, of which it is composed. These simple 
methods having been discovered it only remained to find the means of improving on them. It is 
not our intention to follow step by step all the contrivances invented for the making of ices. The 
most important fact was discovered that by careful manipulation a composition could be obtained 
not only agreeable to the taste, but easier to swallow and to relish. However, we do not intend 
concluding our preliminary remarks without giving some general advice on the manner of cooking 
sugar, on the precautions necessary to the manufacture of phe frozen preparation, and also on the 
way to mold and unmold ice cream figures. 





a +. Oh pee 









ICES. 979 


(8425), COMPOSITIONS FROZEN BY MACHINE (Compositions Glacées & la Machine), 
_ —- ~—Havea machine of basin or pear shape. The basin-shaped machine should be fifteen inches 
_ in diameter by fifteen inches in height and rounded at the bottom, to be provided with a tinned 
_ iron rod running through the freezer and fitting into a gear with a pivot below (see Fig. 611). Put 
a the cover on the freezer and pack it in salted ice; remove the cover and pour into the freezer 
(which contains about thirty quarts), six quarts of preparation, or the fifth part of its capacity. 










































































Fia. 612. 
























































Fie. 613. 


_ ‘Turn the freezer by hand or by steam and detach the composition as fast as it adheres to the sides. 
As soon as the cream is sufficiently consistent, transfer it toa long freezer packed in salted ice 
_ (see how to pack in ice, No. 3432). Several compositions can be frozen one after the other without 
washing out the freezer, by beginning to freeze the composition containing. the least color, and 
being careful to remove any particles of cream remaining after the operation is finished. 


(3426), HOW TO (00K THE CREAM FOR ICES (Maniére de Ouire les Oremes pour les Glaces) 


2 First boil the milk or cream. If with vanilla or white coffee infuse either of these into the 
milk or cream. Put the yolks or whites of eggs in a tinned basin of sufficient size not to have 
the mixture rise to over three-quarters of the height of the vessel; add sugar to the yolks or whites, 
eating it in well with a whisk; then add the boiling milk or cream. Set the basin on a slow fire 
‘or in a bain-marie; stir continuously with the spatula until the composition be of a sufficient thick- 
ness to cover this spatula, which will occur a few moments before it begins to boil; remove it from 
the fire or bain-marie and then strain through a Venice or plated copper wire sieve; stir occasion- 
ally while cooling and freeze when thoroughly cold. For cooked ice cream be careful to select 
‘only the freshest eggs and milk; the most important point to be observed in these creams is to 
have the eggs cooked, allowing them to proceed as far as possible without actually boiling, then 
pour quickly through a sieve and stir steadily until most of the heat is lost. 


(8427), HOW TO FREEZE BY HAND IN A LONG COVERED FREEZER (Maniére de Glacer & la 
Main Dans une Sorbetiére Longue et Couverte). 
Procure a tin freezer with a tinned copper bottom, in preference to all others, or else one of 
block tin; also a wooden pail deeper than the freezer; this pail, aa Tiy> 
made expressly for freezing purposes, must be bored with two \Y A$, 
holes; one two inches above the bottom and another an inch | 
and a half below the top of the freezer. Close these holes with 
well-fitting corks that can easily be removed. Put at the 
bottom of the pail a flat piece of ice about four inches thick— 
this is to facilitate the rotary movement of the freezer—lay the 
freezer exactly in the center and pack it around with ice, as des- 
ribed in No. 3432; now lift off the cover, pour in, to a third of 
its height, the prepared composition needed for freezing, turn the 
freezer rapidly by its handle to the right and then to the left, and 
as soon as the ice attaches to the sides detach it by sliding the 
spatula or palette along the sides of the freezer from the top as far down 
. the freezer, turn and detach again and repeat the same operation until the cre 











ee) 


Fie. 614. 





as the bottom. Cover 
am is found to be of 


980 THE EPICUREAN. 4 


a sufficient consistency, then finish freezing and have it acquire body, while working vigorously 
with the spatula, giving the freezer a rotary movement at each turn with the spatula. If the. 
cream cannot be finished without repacking the freezer, then let a little of the water run out and 7 
repack it once more. . 


peeuly HOW TO FREEZE BY HAND IN A WIDE, UNCOVERED FREEZER (Maniére de Glacer © 
la Main Dans une Sorbetiére Large et Découverte), cee 


To accomplish this it: will be necessary to have a wide and not very deep freezer; 
pack it in a pail of sufficient size to allow three inches of ice all around; add a little 
salted water to the ice so as to loosen the freezer before beginning the operation. — 
The inside measurements of the pail should be sixteen inches deep and sixteen 
inches in diameter, so that when the freezer is packed it will be on a level with the 
pail. Pour two or three quarts of the composition into the freezer, put on the lid — 
and turn it to the right and left until the movement becomes easy to perform, 
Lift off the cover; take hold of the edge of the freezer between the thumb and ee, 
finger and with the palm of the right hand give it a continuous rotary movement, 
detaching the ice as fast as it adheres to the sides, and continue the operation ont 

Fie. 616. the preparation has congealed sufficiently; then transfer it to another freezer packed 
beforehand in ice, putting only a little in at a time; in this way it is easier to work and the ices 
become much finer. 


































(3429), MACHINE WITH LONG FREEZER (Machine avec Sorbetiére Longue), 


Have a machine with two or three pails and freezers of various sizes, according to require- — 
ments (for this see design, Fig. 617). Proportions for a machine 
containing eighteen quarts and for one containing twelve: Put the 
composition into the freezer packed in the pail, not having it reach 
above half the height of the freezer; in the center stand the detaching 
apparatus, intended for the purpose of detaching the cream from 
the sides—this turns one way and the freezer itself in the opposite 
direction; in this manner it detaches the cream from the sides, 
making it much lighter. Put the cover on the detaching apparatus 
and turn the freezer for ten minutes, either by steam or hand. 
After the cream is congealed take the spatula and detach any cream 
adhering to it. Should it have to remain in the same freezer, pack 
it once more in ice (No. 3432). Proportions for an eighteen-quart 
freezer: The inside pail is twenty-four inches high; diameter across 
the opening thirteen and a half inches; diameter across the bottom 
twelve inches. Either size should be made of oak an inch thick. 
The freezer for this pail must be nineteen and a. half inches high 
by eight inches in diameter. For the inside measurements of a 
twelve-quart freezer, have the height of the pail twenty-one inches — 
by thirteen-inches in diameter at. the opening, the bottom to be eleven and a half inches. The 
freezer for this pail must measure eighteen and a half inches in height and seven and a half i in. Fe 
diameter. 

























































































“Fi. 617, 


(2430), MANNER OF FREEZING, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Manitre de Glacer & la Napolitaine). 


Have a tin freezer (sorbetiére) capable of holding sixteen quarts of preparation; imbed it im ~ 
Salted ice, and pour into it eight quarts of composition, then turn the freezer from right to left, — 
and as soon as it becomes easy to turn seize the edges between the thumb and first finger of the 

right hand, and move it with a continuous motion. After a suffi- 

weA cient quantity of ice adheres, remove it with a copper spoon (Fig. 

Fic. 618. 618), to detach it from bottom to top. Another tin freezer must 

be imbedded beforehand. Put into this second freezer the ice 

taken from the first; another person must now work this ice until it becomes perfectly smooth, 

and then transfer it once more into a third freezer, packed in salted ice, to preserve it. Ices 
made this way are remarkably smooth, and can be molded at once. 


—$—$———————— 


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ICES. 981 


(3431), HOW TO MOLD, FREEZE AND UNMOLD SMALL ICES AND LARGE ONES REPRE- 
SENTING FIGURES, ETO. (Maniére de Mouler, Frapper et Démouler les Petites Glaces et 
les Grosses Piéces Représentant des Sujets). 

To mold ices representing any object or subject whatsoever calls for the greatest amount of 
care, otherwise a defective result will ensue. When small ices or half ices are required for molding, 
such as those representing flowers, fruits, etc., lay the molds on unsalted ice so they become 
thoroughly cold. Cover the bottom of a pail with a layer of salted ice, having a sufficient 
quantity of it to form a bed three inches deep; then take the mold in the left hand and in the 
right a copper spoon (Fig. 618, a Neapolitan spoon), this being used to take up the various 
ices meant for filling the molds. It should be kept continually in water so as to keep it clean, as it 
is used for different creams. Press down the composition without inclosing any air between the 
mold and the ice; in this way it can adhere to the various designs imprinted on the mold, leaving 
no empty space whatever between. Now, having the mold full, close it forcibly, bringing the cover 
down well on to it, and with the finger remove any surplus ice that may issue from the intersections 
of the mold. After it is pressed down stand it on a bed of prepared salted ice and over lay more 
of the same ice. Continue thus to mold and pack down until all the molds are finished, then cover 
the whole with ice and salt; leave to freeze for one hour or more, according to the composition 
used, the size of the mold, and also according to the humidity of the atmosphere. When 
it becomes a question of molding more important ices, such as figures, subjects, etc., after cooling 
the molds thoroughly lay them on a slightly raised bed of rice and salt, so that they can be filled 
cautiously and with facility, for it requires every possible precaution in order to form these figures 
properly. Close the mold furnished with pins. After filling it well, beginning from the bottom 


put on the lid and press it down forcibly, removing any surplus ice issuing from the joints, and 


pack the mold in plenty of salted ice (No. 3482), leaving it in as long as judged proper, a two-quart 
mold requiring about two hours. 

To Unmold.—Take the mold out of the ice, remove any surplus ice on the outside, and the 
pins from the hinges, then plunge the mold thoroughly and hastily in hot water; lift off the cover 
and lay the fancy ice mold bottom downward on a napkin; detach all the parts quickly but cau- 
tiously from the mold so as not to deform the piece. Those of a larger size are usually dressed on 
colored natural ice socles; these ices may be painted over with small badger brushes dipped in 
vegetal colors into which a little syrup has been mixed. The base of the molds intended to stand 
on socles should be of ice cream and not too rich, as they support the weight of the whole piece. 
When packed in ice the base of the mold should always be at the bottom of the pail; cover this 
with a cloth, packing it down well between the ice and pail. 


(3432), TO PACK SORBETIERES OR FREEZERS IN ICE (Pour Sangler les Sorbetiéres). 

Salt and saltpetre are the active agents used for freezing. The quantity employed is one 
pound of salt for four pounds of ice, this being a pro- 
portionately active mixture for freezing the very richest 
cream and water ices. The salt and ice can be ranged 
in alternate layers or else have the whole mixed well 
together in a pail; in either case place ice around the 
freezer and pack it down well with the palette. Repeat 
this operation every time more salted ice is to be packed. 
Always pay attention that sorbetiéres turned by hand 
are to be packed lower than the edge of the pail, so 
that when the ice is finished the cover of the freezer may 
be adjusted as well as the cover on the pail. In houses 
where ices are being constantly made they have boxes 
lined with galvanized sheet-iron cylinders, and the empty 
space between the box and the cylinder is filled either 
with charcoal dust, tow or sawdust, as well as the covers; 
each cylinder must be provided with a hole one inch in diameter and two inches from the bottom 
to allow the water to run out. In case the water should not be allowed to flow off, then it will be 
prudent to bore a hole half an inch in diameter, one inch lower than the height of the freezer. 





(3433), FOR FREEZING WATER BOTTLES (Pour Frapper les Carafes). 
Water bottles are easily frozen, only be careful to follow closely the ensuing instructions. If 
a handsome looking bottle is required, it must be of a spherical shape, slightly longer than its 


982 | THE EPICUREAN. 


width and of ordinary thick glass; it must invariably be clean, and then filled slightly less tham 4 


half full or a little lower than the circumference line of thesphere, with filtered water. Mix three- 
quarters of very finely chopped ice with one-quarter of. rock salt; range the bottles in a box suffi- 
ciently large to hold twenty, leaving an inch space between each; 
cover the neck of the bottle with a tinned copper cup, having a 
round bottom, or else with a specially made rubber cork (Fig. 620); 
cover entirely with salted ice, raising them all up so that the ice 
passes slightly underneath each bottle; neglect of this precaution 
will break all the bottles in the box. Pack the ice around, cover 
the box with a hermetically closed cover, and an hour later raise up. 
the bottles, one by one, and give each a rotary movement to hasten. 


of the height of the ball of the bottle, and leave in again for an 
hour and a half to finish freezing; remove the faucet that keeps the- 
water in the box, let this run out, and besides remove the corks. 


wash in cold water and fill with filtered ice water. 


Colorée), 


Procure a box sufficiently wide and deep to contain all the molds. 
needed for making the socles and sherbets; into it put a mixture of 


Re Ss into this imbed the molds in such a way that they are not too close 
~~ Fie. 620. = to one another, having all their sides well surrounded by the ice, so. 
that when the water is poured into these molds their surfaces will 
be perfectly horizontal; for this examine the basket shown in Fig. 621. The mold for this. 
basket is made in two pieces; imbed the bottom or foot in the salted ice; into it pour water colored 
green or blue and as the foot is to be of uniform tint fill it entirely, then leave to freeze. Now 
place the upper part of the mold in salted ice, pour in water 
to reach halfway, having mixed a little milk into it to 
render it opaque. Cover the box with a raised edge sheet 
of zine and fill this with more salted ice and let freeze. As 
soon as the whitened water is frozen fill the remainder of 
the mold with red water. These colored waters should be 
used perfectly cold and the last ones poured in, only after the 
first ones are congealed. The colors may be varied accord- 
ing to the taste of the one preparing the socles and glasses. 
It is most important to remember that no salted water 
whatever must-penetrate into the molds, otherwise it will = : 
melt and eat away the ice already congealed and deteriorate ‘Fra, 621. 
the beauty of these socles and glasses. The unmolding is the 
same as for ices. Soeles are to be dressed on folded napkins and glasses on lace papers. Ices can ‘also 
be dressed on:blocks of ice cut any . desired size and shape. To keep these blocks together, iron 
rods,can- be proeuréd, having on one-end a sheet iron ring and on the other a nut screw to hold 
the whole together. These rods are to be inserted in a hole through the center of the socle 
formed with a tube foot in the:center of the mold and held in place with butter, being careful to: 
have it water-tight, so the liquid cannot penetrate. They can be decorated with grasses and 
flowers maintained by wires introduced into the water when it first begins to congeal. Blocks of 
all sizes can be made in square, oblong, round or oval molds, having a hollow formed in the middle;. 
for these special molds must be procured. 





(3435), ICED BISCUITS, DIPLOMATE AND HOW TO MAKE BISCUIT CASES (Biscuits Glacés 
a la Diplomate et Maniére de Faire les Boites & Biscuits), 

To make these biscuits usea vanilla biscuit preparation (No. 3488), or else vanilla ice cream (No. 
3458) beaten in a metal bowl with as much whipped cream mixed with it. Cut candied fruits into 
three-sixteenths inch squares, lay them in a bowl, pour over a little kirsch and let soak while cov- 
ered, adding a few crushed macaroons. Fill the cases half full with the preparation, lay a bed of 


the freezing; withdraw all the superfluous water above two-thirds, | 


from the necks of the bottles; when ready to serve lift them out, 


(3484), PLAIN WATER SOCLES, COLORED (Socles d’eau Naturelle, 


salt and ice equivalent to the quantity used for packing freezers; 








’ 
. 
. 
4 






ICES. . 983 


the fruits and macaroons on top and then another layer of the cream, filling the cases to 
one-eighth of an inch below the edge of the box. Freeze the biscuits and cover with a layer of 
_ whipped cream tinted rose-pink, mixing in a pinch of ground cinnamon; return the biscuits to the 
_ freezing box and finish freezing. 

_ Biscuit Cases.—Boxes for biscuit glacés are made with sheets of very strong paper, generally a 
_ little longer than their width, being six and a half inches long and six inches wide. In order to 
make these boxes take one of these sheets of paper and fold it lengthwise on itself in three even 
parts; again refold the two lateral parts on themselves lengthwise on the outside, thus forming a 
long band open in the center. These last two folds form the double lateral edges of the box. ee 
: _ fold this band transversely on the open side into three parts, but in such a way that the two extreme 
_ ends exactly meet at the center of the band. Openall the folds except the two forming the outside 
edges of the box, and when this is done there will be found traced on the paper the various lines 
representing the bottom, the center and the four sides, besides four small rectangular corners 
which are used for closing the box. Fold each of these four rectangulars all on the inside so as to 
trace on each one an almost diagonal line beginning at the bottom angle of the box. Now, by fol- 
lowing the lines of these folds, raise the lateral sides of the box, also the ends, at a straight angle 
with the bottom; by folding the small rectangulars at. the almost diagonally traced line the result 
will be the angles of the box by the junction of the prolonged lines traced on'the bottom of the box; 
then bring the two wings of each end, which are exteriorly against and in the center of the small 
edges, or ends, of the box. Fold outward the corners of the two ends, exceeding the edges of the 
box so as to form two truncated triangles; fold over these triangles on the outside against the nar- 
row ends of the box and seal them down. 


4 2) 


Another Way to Make Biscuit Cases.—Take a quarter of a sheet of strong white paper; cut it 
about twice as long as its width, so as to give it an oblong shape. Fold this paper lengthwise in 
three on its length, then refold the two sides on themselves on the outside so as to double them, 
and thus form a long, straight band, open on one side only; fold the double points of the angles 
inwardly again so as to have the band pointed on each end; now fold these two ends on the inner 
side, simply to form the fold, open the band, press the folds well and the box will be formed. 
The narrow sides of the band form the length of the case. 


(3436), EXCELSIOR BISCUIT (Biscuit Excelsior), 


Have ready a vanilla biscuit preparation (No. 3438), line a 
large biscuit case, the size being explained in the vanilla biscuit 
recipes; fill it half full with the preparation. Divide lady fingers. 
lengthwise in two or three pieces the same length as the box; soak 
them in maraschino, then place in the cases over the first layer 
of preparation, filling with more of the same. Put them ina freez- 
ing box; freeze and ice over half their length with orange water ice 
(No. 3605), the other half with raspberry 
(No.3607); in the center place a small size 
rose, molded in lemon ice (No.3604), and 

ni on each side on the length place a lozenge 
~~ Fig. 622, of pistachio ice cream (No. 3454). Fic. 623. 





































































































































































































(84387), ICED BISCUITS ALA DORLEANS (Biscuits Glacés & la d'Orléans), 


Procure atin box with a cover closing on the outside. The interior should measure eight 
inches in length, five and three-quarters in width and 
one and three-quarters deep. Fit the bottom of this 
7 with twelve small cardboard 
cases, all together being the exact 
size of the bottom of the box and 
each half an inch high. Pour 

: 2:4 in sufficient yanilla biscuit prep- 
ap Erode aration (No. 3488) to fill up the 
tin box to a quarter of an inch below the top, put on 
the cover and close the joints with butter, then pack the box in salted ice; leave it for at least 
an hour and a half, being careful that the water does not rise higher than the bottom of the 
tox; take out the box, wipe, remove the cover and finish filling to the typ with strawberry water 








Fie. 625. 


984 THE EPICUREAN. 


ice (No. 3607); smooth with the blade of a knife, replace the cover and fasten it once more with : 


butter; freeze for one hour longer. Then remove both box and cover, wipe well and pass a thin 


knife all around the inside. Dip the bottom into hot water, unmold so that it turns over ina 
single block, then reverse it to have the strawberry iceon top. Divide the biscuit into twelve equal- 
sized parts, the exact size of the cases, and dress each one on a round piece of fancy lace paper. 


(3438), ICED BISCUITS WITH VANILLA AND STRAWBERRY, MELON SHAPED Bi | 
Glacés & la Vanille et aux Praises, et en Forme de Melon), 
Put eight egg yolks in a small tinned basin with three gills of thirty-five degree syrup, four 


gills of rich cream and a vanilla bean split lengthwise in two; beat the whole together and when _ 


well mingled set the basin on the fire and stir constantly with a 
spatula until it covers it thoroughly with a thick layer, then 
remove from the fire and strain the preparation through a Venice 
sieve. Wash the basin thoroughly and return the cream to it; 
lay the basin on ice, beat and when the composition is very firm 


fill some cases (Fig. 623) three-quarters full and freeze them in a 
freezing box (a square box furnished with movable tin shelyes on 
the inside, they being perforated with large holes). When frozen 
finish filling with strawberry or any other water ice; smooth with 
a knife and return to the freezing box to finish freezing. The 
inside dimensions of large cases are four and a half inches long, two and a half wide and one and 





























Fig. 626. 


incorporate therein a quart. of whipped cream.* With this mixture _ 


one-sixteenth deep; the medium cases measure three and a half inches long, one and seven-eighths __ 


wide and one inch deep. 

Iced biscuits can also be ranged in melon-shaped molds; coat these over with strawberry 
water ice (No. 3607), into which mix twice as much whipped cream (No. 50), and finish filling 
with the above vanilla biscuit preparation; freeze and unmold on a folded napkin. 


(3439), BOMB A LA CONSTANTINE (Bombe a la Constantine), 


Take a special hinged mold, the same as for Fig. 627; it must have a hollow on the top, into 
which place a double mold filled with cotton and alcohol and set on fire ; 

when serving. The inside of the mold must be coated with chocolate ice 
cream, into which mix half as much whipped cream. Fill the hollow space 
in the inside with a preparation made as follows: Melt five ounces of sweet 
chocolate and five ounces of sugar in a quart of hot water; after the choco- 
late is all dissolved pass the whole through a fine sieve and leave to cool; pour 
the top off gently an hour later and reduce it to three gills. Break sixteen 
egg-yolks in a basin, beat with three gills of thirty-two degree syrup and 
three and a half gills of water and the chocolate; set this on a slow fire and 
stir steadily until the composition covers the spatula well, then strain through 
a sieve, return it to the basin, lay on ice and beat, adding half as much well- 
drained whipped cream (No. 50). Fill the mold quite full with this, close tightly e 
and freeze. A two-quart bomb will require two hours’ freezing. Unmold “Nn 
and dress on aring of white chocolate ice cream, the proportions for making Fie. 627. 

it being three and a half gills of clarified sugar at thirty-two degrees, three and a half gills of water, 
sixteen egg-yolks, and eight ounces of cocoa infused in the syrup with a vanilla bean split lengthwise 
in two. Decorate around with Africans (No. 3364) and pistachio lady bouchées (No. 3376). 





(3440), BOMB A LA TROBRIAND AND FIFTH AVENUE (Bombe & la Trobriand et & Ja 
Cinquiéme Avenue), 


Imbed a bomb-shaped mold (Fig. 627) in ice; remove its lid and coat it perpendicularly, half 
‘with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) and half with pistachio (No. 3454). Fill the inside with the 
following preparation: Pound seven ounces of filberts or sweet almonds; moisten little at a time 
with a pint of water and three gills of thirty-five degree syrup. Break eighteen egg-yolks in a 
saucepan or tinned copper basin, add the almond milk and a pint of boiling milk; set it on a slow 
fire and stir steadily until sufficiently cooked so that it covers the spatula; strain throuall a sieve, 





*In all cases where reference is made to a given quantity of whipped cream the quantity stated should be understood 
as meaning when the cream is whipped and not in its liquid state. 





ICES. 985 


return it to the well-cleaned basin, and add the same quantity of thoroughly drained whipped 
eream. Fill up the coated mold, cover with paper, put on its lid, imbed in salted ice, and if the 
mold contains two quarts freeze it for one hour and a half. 

For Fifth Avenue Bomb.—Have the same preparation; coat the mold with strawberry ice 
eream only when it is frozen; dip in hot water, unmold on a napkin, and decorate with small cakes. 


(8441), PRINTANIER FRUIT BOMB (Bombe aux Fruits Printaniéve), 


Pack a bomb mold (Fig. 627) in salted ice and cover the bottom and sides with a layer of 
strawberry ice cream (No. 3451), having it a quarter of an inch thick; fill in the hollow with a 
preparation made as follows: In a tin basin have fourteen egg yolks, six gills of twenty-degree 
syrup, and a yanilla bean split lengthwise in two; mingle well, and set the basin on a slow fire; 
cook until the composition covers the spoon or spatula, then remove, strain, return it to the clean 
basin and set it on ice; beat thoroughly to have it light, adding one quart of firm whipped cream, 
drained for two hours on a sieve; mix well together and pour this preparation into the mold, filling 
it entirely; place over a sheet of paper and the cover; pack in salted ice, and allow one hour’s 
freezing for each quart of cream. After the bomb is properly frozen unmold on an ice-cold dish 
and garnish around with a macédoine of fruits steeped in maraschino. 


(8442), ROMAN BOMB (Bombe & la Romaine), 


Add twelve ounces of sugar to one quart of cream; strain it through a sieve, freeze and work 
it briskly, adding gradually two gills of rum stirred with two ounces of sugar; incorporate two 
Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140). Coat a two quart bomb-shaped mold (Fig. 627) with 
pineapple ice cream (No. 3451), fill it with the above, then cover, and pack it for two hours in 
salted ice. Take the mold from the salted ice, remove all drippings, and unmold on a folded nap- 
kin, garnishing around with strawberry lady bouchées (No. 3376). 


(3443), BOMB WITH LIQUORS (Bombe aux Liqueurs). 


Have twelve raw egg-yolks well beaten in a saucepan, or tinned copper basin, with four gills 
of thirty-two degree syrup, four gills of water and one gill of either aniseed, Curagoa, kirsch, mara- 
schino or mint liquors. Cook the preparation over a very slow fire; stir continuously until it covers 
the spatula well, then remove and pass it through a fine sieve. Wash the basin, put back the prep- 
aration and whip until firm and light, then add the same quantity of very solid whipped cream 
(No. 50) drained well for two hours on a hair sieve; mix together. Imbed the mold in ice, 
fill the inside with orange water ice if for aniseed, strawberry water ice for Curagoa, vanilla for 
kirsch, pistachio for maraschino, and lemon water ice for mint. When the mold is overflowing 
lay on a sheet of waxed paper twice the diameter of the mold. Put on the lid, fastening it down 
firmly, and cover with a thick bed of salted ice; freeze for one hour and a half for two quarts. 
Take out the mold, dip it quickly in hot water and invert on a folded napkin; surround with a 
garnishing either of macaroons, small biscuit cases, small flat waffles, small cream cakes or 
slices of Savoy biscuit iced with prunelle. 


(3444), BOMB STREAKED WITH WHITE AND BLAOK COFFEE (Bombe Panachée au Café 
Blanc et Noir). 

White Coffee.—Set into a high saucepan three gills of thirty-two degree syrup and three and 
a half gills of water, adding six ounces of freshly roasted coffee; cover the saucepan tightly and 
leave the coffee infuse in the syrup for three hours in a bain-marie. Place fourteen egg-yolks in 
a basin, whip them gradually with the coffee infusion and cook on a slow fire; strain the 
preparation when done and beat it well on ice, mixing in half as much well-drained whipped 
cream. 

Black Coffee.—Put fourteen egg-yolks in a tinned copper basin, dilute with three gills of thirty- 
two degree syrup and three gills of very strong coffee, made with two ounces of ground Java, 
Maracaibo and Mocha; finish it exactly the same as the white coffee. 

Divide a bomb mold with a tin partition to separate it perpendicularly into two 
compartments; put the white coffee preparation in one, remove the tin and replace it with 
a waffle of the same size; finish filling the mold with the black coffee preparation, having the 
mold quite full. Cover with paper. then with the lid and pack well in ice; leave it to freeze, al- 
lowing an hour and a half for two quarts; remove from the ice, turn it out on a folded napkin and 
surround with small coffee lady bouchées (No. 3376), then serve. 


986 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3445), ICE CREAM A LA CIALDINI (Crame & la Cialdini), i 

Put ten egg-yolks and eight ounces of sugar in a tinned copper basin; beat up well and add a : 
pint of boiling milk into which has been infused, for half an hour, half a vanilla bean and two : 
ounces of ground almonds. Cook the preparation on a slow fire until it covers the spatula, adding — 
half a pound of dissolved chocolate, a piece of Ceylon cinnamon and a tablespoonful of ground — 
coriander seeds; let cool, then pour in one pint of cream; pass the whole through a fine sieve, 
freeze and incorporate a quarter as much whipped cream (No. 50), half a pound of almonds and — 
half a pound of quartered pistachios; pack the cream in ice and salt, and it is ready to use het , 
needed. ; 


a 





(3446), ANDALUSIAN ICE CREAM—WITHOUT COOKING (Crame & I'Andalouse—Sans Ouisson). 


Pour in a vessel one pint of cream, one pint of orange juice, twelve ounces of sugar and — 
half an orange peel; infuse this for one hour, then strain through a silk sieve and freeze, mixing — b 
in a little orange flower water added to a little syrup;. work the ice well, pack in cracked ice 
and salt, and use when needed. 


(8447), CARAMEL ICE CREAM (Créme au Caramel), 


Put ten ounces of sugar in a copper basin with very little water, cook to caramel, then pour it 
on a marble to get cold; pound and return it to the basin with six egg-yolks, a quarter of a vanilla 
stick and a pint of boiling milk. Cook this preparation on a slow fire without boiling, remove it — 
from the range when it covers the spatula, and when cold add a pint of cream; strain through a 
sieve and freeze. 


(3448), COLUMBIA ICE CREAM (Oréme 4 la Columbia), 


To make this ice cream it will require two preparations: One composed of a pint of fresh cream, 
half a gill of maraschino and four ounces of sugar; strain through a sieve, freeze, then add another 
half gill of maraschino, a little at a time, one Italian meringue egg-white (No. 140), half an ounce 
of cherries cut in four, half an ounce of candied citron and orange peel chopped into thin 
shreds. The other preparation is made as follows: Grind one pound of freshly peeled pistachios. 
with a quarter of a pound of sugar, diluting with a quart of cream. Put into a vessel twelve egg- 
yolks and eight ounces of sugar; mix well together, add the pistachios and a coloring of spinach 
green to give it a pale green hue. Set the basin on a slow fire and cook the cream without boiling, 
stirring continuously, and when it covers the spatula cool and put in three-quarters of a gill of 
orange flower water. Strain through a sieve, freeze, then mix in as much whipped cream (No. 50), 
two, ounces of candied pineapple cut in quarter-inch squares and two ounces of angelica cut the 
same. Fill a Madeleine mold (Fig. 694) quite full of the two preparations divided in halves; fasten 
the lid on tightly, pack in salted ice and an hour after unmold on a very cold dish and bestrew 
with finely minced green pistachios. 


(8449), CHOCOLATE AND COCOA IGE CREAM (Créme au Chocolat et au Cacao). 


Dissolve in a very slack oven four ounces of unsweetened chocolate in two gills of hot water. 
Beat twelve egg-yolks in a tinned basin with one pound of powdered sugar and dilute the prepara- 
tion witha pint and a half of boiling milk, adding the fourth part of a vanilla stick. Stir the cream 
on a moderate fire till nearly thick, then mix in the chocolate thoroughly dissolved with three gills. 
of hot cream; stir well for a few moments, remove and strain twice through a sieve into a metal 
vessel; when cold transfer to a sorbetiére to freeze. 


Chocolate—Another Way.—Two pounds of fine sweet chocolate, two fe of ‘aoe half a 


vanilla bean, two pounds of sugar and twenty-four yolks; cook, let get cold and then add two 
quarts of fresh cream and freeze. 


With Cocoa.—Boil a pint and a half of milk, add ten ounces of torrefied cocoa, and a quarter 
of a vanilla stick; leave to infuse for two hours. Mix five egg-yolks, ten ounces of sugar and the 
infusion in a tinned basin; cook over a slow fire, stirring incessantly until the preparation covers. 


the spoon; remove, cool partly and add one pint of raw fresh cream; strain, freeze any serve, mix- 
ing in a few chocolate pastilles. 





4 


ICES. 987 


(3450), CINNAMON, GINGER OR PUMPERNICKEL RYE BREAD ICE CREAM (Glace Oréme a 
la Canelle, au Gingembre ou au Pumpernickel Pain de Seigle), 

With Cinnamon.—Infuse one ounce of cinnamon in a quart of boiling milk. Place twelve 
ounces of sugar in a basin with eight egg yolks; beat and add the infusion; mix so that the sugar 
dissolves, cook without boiling, then cool and pass through a fine sieve; freeze and mix in a few 
vanilla chocolate pastilles, each half an inch in diameter. 

Ginger.—Substitute ginger for the cinnamon and finish the same. 


Pumpernickel Rye Bread.—Grate half a pound of rye bread and pass it through a coarse 
sieve or colander; pour into a vessel and throw over a pint of thirty-degree syrup. Break twelve 
egg-yolks in a tin basin, add eight ounces of sugar, mix well with a pint of boiling milk; cook this 
on a slow fire without boiling, remove and when cold strain through a sieve, freeze, adding the 
rye bread when nearly frozen and two quarts of whipped cream (No. 50). 


(3451), FRESH FRUIT ICE CREAMS—WITHOUT EGGS OR COOKING (Crame de Fruits Frais— 
Sans Chufs ni Cuisson), 

Por Strawberries, Cherries, Currants and Raspberries.—Add three pints of cream and a pint 
of milk to a quart of strawberry, cherry, currant or raspberry juice and two pounds of powdered. 
sugar. Melt the sugar, strain the whole through a silk sieve and freeze. 

Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines.—To be made with one pint of cream, a pint of the pulp of 
any of these fruits, taking those thoroughly ripe; break the kernels, peel the nuts, split them in two. 
and infuse in a gill of syrup with the fourth part of a vanilla bean. To the cream and the fruits. 


‘add ten ounces of powdered sugar and the infusion. Strain through a very fine sieve and freeze. 


Pineapple.— Mix a pint of milk and twelve ounces of sugar, also a pint of pineapple juice; 
strain through a fine sieve and freeze. Instead of using the juice, thin slices may be cut from the 
pineapple, laid in a vessel and covered with a boiling syrup of thirty-two degrees; strain, cool off 
and freeze. 


(8452), NOUGAT ICE CREAM; NOUGAT NEAPOLITAN CREAM (Créme Nougat; Oréme Nougat. 


& la Napolitaine), 


Set half a pound of powdered sugar in a tinned copper pan with the juice of one lemon; place- 
it on a slow fire, stir continuously and when melted and colored to a fine red add half a pound of 
unpeeled almonds and a pinch of coriander seeds; mix well. Pour this nougat on a marble and 
as soon as cold pound it in a mortar, moistening slowly with a pint of cream. Have ten egg-yolks 
in a basin with four ounces of sugar, beat well together and then add a pint of boiling milk and 
the crushed nougat; cook on a slow fire, stirring steadily; remove when it covers the spatula and 
leaye till cold; into this mix a pint of cream; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. 

Nougat Neapolitan Cream.—To be made with a quart of cream, fourteen ounces of sugar, 
twelve egg-yolks, half a pound of peeled almonds roasted to a golden brown and half an ounce of 
coriander seeds. Pound the almonds and corianders, wetting with two giils of cream; color with 
a little carmine and cook without boiling; when cold add a pint more of cream, strain and 
freeze. 


(3453), PEACH ICE CREAM A LA HERBSTER (Oréme aux Péches & la Herbster). 


Prepare a peach ice cream with two-thirds of cream and one-third of fruit pulp, adding three 
drops of extract of almonds; color slightly to a very pale pink and with this cream when frozen 
coat a pudding mold. Have some ripe peaches already peeled, stoned and cut -in quarters; mince 
them finely and macerate in a little kirsch. Mix into the remainder of the peach ice cream half 
as much whipped cream (No. 50) and an equal quantity of the minced peaches; fill the mold 
quickly, freeze and unmold one hour later. 


(3454), PISTACHIO ICE OREAM (Créme aux Pistaches), 


Pound half a pound of freshly peeled pistachio nuts with two gills of cream and an 
ounce of candied citron peel cut up very finely. Break twelve raw egg-yolks in a tinned basin, beat 
with ten ounces of sugar, and moisten with a pint of boiling milk; cook on a slow fire, stirring alk 
the time with a spatula, and when the composition is cooked add the pistachios; take from the fire, 
and when cold put in a pint of cream, some spinach green or vegetal green, and a little orange: 
flower water; strain through a fine sieve and then freeze. 


988 THE EPICUREAN. 


Pistachio Ice Cream made with Almonds.—One quart of milk, six whole eggs, a pound and a 
quarter of sugar, half a pound of almonds, half a gill of orange flower water, one quart of cream 
and vegetal coloring. 


(8455). BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM AND WITH ANGELICA (Créme Pralinée et & l’Angélique), 


Crush half a pound of burnt almonds with two gills of cream; put ten egg-yolks in a basin 
with ten ounces of sugar, mix well together, adding the burnt almonds and a pint of boiling milk. 
Set the basin on a slow fire, stir constantly with a spatula until of sufficient thickness to cover the 
same, then put aside to cool while stirring at times to prevent a skin from forming on top; add 
one pint of cream, strain through a fine sieve, and freeze. 


With Angelica.—After the cream is frozen add to it half as much whipped cream (No. 50) 
and half a pound of finely shredded angelica. 


(8456), RICE IGE CREAM, PARADISE (Créme de Riz, Paradis), 


Wash and blanch twelve ounces of Carolina rice; drain. Take four ounces of it and cook it 
thoroughly in four quarts of milk; strain through a sieve. Put thirty-two egg-yolks in a tinned 
basin, add two pounds and a quarter of sugar, and beat both together, then put in the rice pulp; 
set it on the fire and beat steadily until the preparation covers the spatula; leave stand till cold; 
run it through a sieve, and replace it in the basin after it has been well cleaned; lay it onice; whip 
to have the mixture light, and stir in as much whipped cream. Cook the remainder of the rice in 
a vanilla syrup at twenty degrees; cool off, drain, add it to the composition, and freeze. 


(3457), RICE ICH CREAM WITH CITRON, GARNISHED WITH TRUFFLES (Oréme de Riz et au 


Cédrat, Garnie de Truffes), 


Place eight egg-whites in a tinned basin with twelve ounces of sugar and four tablespoonfuls 
of rice flour; stir well together, adding a quart of boiling milk; cook without boiling on a slow fire, 
remove and when cold put in a pint of cream; pass through a sieve, freeze and then add halfa 
pound of very finely shredded citron peel and half a pint of blanched rice cooked in syrup. Have 
it molded in a low Madeleine mold, and garnish around with imitation truffles prepared as 
follows: 


Truffle Ice Cream.—This cream can only be made with fresh truffles. Brush over half a pound 
of fresh, fragrant truffles; peel, slice and infuse in a pint of boiling cream for thirty minutes. Drop 
twelve egg-yolks in a tinned basin with ten ounces of sugar; mix well together and then add one 
quart of cream, including that in which the truffles are being infused; cook the preparation without 
boiling, and add the truffles after pounding and passing them through a sieve. Freeze and mold 
in molds imitating whole truffles coated with chocolate; pack inice. Chop up the truffle peelings 
very finely, mixing in a few vanilla seeds; dry in the open air, pass through a sieve and roll the un- 
molded imitation truffles in this powder. Use these truffles to decorate the above ice cream. 


(3458), VANILLA ICE CREAMS—ITALIAN MERINGUE (Crémes Vanille—Meringue Italienne), 


Vanilla (No. 1).—Boil two quarts of milk; remove and add a large vanilla bean split in two 
through its length; cover the saucepan and leave infuse for fifteen minutes. Beat twelve raw egg- 
yolks in a vessel with one pound of powdered sugar, diluting gradually with the hot milk; strain 
into a tinned basin; place over a moderate fire, stirring continually until it thickens, without 
boiling, and pass it at once through a sieve into a glazed vessel; stir several times while cooling. 
Pour this composition into a spherical freezer packed in salted ice; turn the freezer around 
and with the spatula remove any particles of cream that may adhere against the sides. Fifteen to 
twenty minutes will suffice to congeal and thicken the preparation, then take it up with a spoon 
and lay it in a small long freezer buried in salted ice. Work it vigorously with the spatula, turn- 
ing the box around on itself. Fine ices require to be well worked. Various vanilla ice creams 
may be prepared the same, only changing their proportions. 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Milk and Cream (No. 2.)—Boil a pint of milk in which is infused 
half a vanillastick. Beat in a vessel ten egg-yolks with ten ounces of sugar; finish the same as 
in No. 1; when the preparation is cold add one pint of fresh cream, then freeze. 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Cream (No. 3).—Have a quart of boiling cream with half a vanilla 
bean infused therein. Whip eight egg-yolks with six ounces of sugar; pour over the cream, cook 
and finish as in No. 1 


J 
] 
, 
; 





eS 





ICES. ygo 


Vanilla Ice Cream without Cream or Milk (No. 4).—Infuse a vanilla bean in eight gills of 
syrup at twenty degrees. Break eighteen raw egg-yolks in a tin basin, dilute with the syrup and 
cook while stirring steadily over a slow fire until the mixture covers the spatula then pass it 
through a sieve, leave till cold and freeze. Cook a quarter of a pound of sugar fo “large ball ”” 
(No. 171), mix it slowly with two stiffly beaten egg-whites, leave stand till cold, then Tae eae 
this meringue gradually into the ice cream. 


Vanilla Snow Ice Cream, Italian Meringue and Whipped Cream (No. 5).—Beat five egg- 
yolks to a stiff froth; mix in slowly one pound of sugar cooked to ‘small ball” (No. 171) ae 
vanilla bean split lengthwise in two; let cool. Whip a quart of cream; when very firm drain on a 
sieve and mix it in lightly with the Italian meringue. 


Roman Vanilla Ice Cream, Syrup and Cream (No. 6).—Put sixteen raw egg-yolks in a 
tinned basin; pour over eight gills of syrup at twenty degrees into which has been infused a 
split vanilla bean; beat well with a small whip, place it on a slow fire and continue stirring with 


the spatula until cooked and of a sufficient thickness to cover the spatula; remove, cool and add a 


quart of fresh cream before freezing. 


Light Vanilla Ice Cream, Milk and Whipped Cream (No. 7).—Beat up a quart of cream; 
drain it on a hair sieve; add ten ounces of powdered sugar to twelve raw egg-yolks in a basin; beat 
and moisten with a pint of boiling milk into which has been infused a vanilla bean split down in 
two; set the basin on a slow fire and stir continuously until the mixture covers the spatula; then 
remove, strain and leave till cold. Freeze as usual and after the cream has congealed mix into it 
the same quantity of the whipped cream. 


Vanilla Ice Cream (No. 8).—Two quarts of milk, two vanilla sticks, two and a half pounds 
of sugar, twenty-four egg-yolks. Cook, cool and add two quarts of cream; strain, then freeze. 


(8459), VIRGIN CREAM WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER AND NOYAU, ETC, (réme Vierge. 
& la Fleur d’Orange au Noyau, etc,). 


Virgin creams are composed of cream, sugar and egg-whites; they are cooked the same as the 
egg-yolk creams and are always to be left white, either finished with orange flower water, noyau, 
maraschino, almond milk, lemon or hazel-nuts. 


Orange Flower and Noyau.—Put twelve egg-whites in a tinned basin, add one pound of sugar, 
and mix thoroughly with a quart of fresh cream. Cook this preparation while stirring, being careful 
it does not come to a boil, then remove and beat it occasionally until cold; strain through a very 
fine sieve, adding half a gill of noyau liquor and a gill of orange flower water, also another gill of 
noyau after the ice has congealed. A quarter of its quantity of Italian meringue may be incor- 
porated into this cream when frozen. With Maraschino.—Substitute two gills of maraschino for 
the orange flower water. With Almond Milk.—Six ounces of almonds, including a few bitter 
ones, pounded with two gills and a half of cream; stir this in when the cream is cooked and partly 
cold. With Lemon.—Infuse the peels of two lemons after the cream is cooked. With Hazel- 
nuts.—Half a pound of roasted, peeled and crushed hazel-nuts mingled with sugar and added to 
the cream before cooking. 


(3460), WHITE COFFEE ICE CREAM (Oréme au Café Blano), 


Roast very slowly, either in a roaster or in a frying pan, half a pound of good coffee beans, not 
haying them too dark. Boil a pint of milk and pour it over the roasted coffee laid in a saucepan, 
cover tightly and keep it on the side of the range for half an hour. Put twenty egg-yolks in a 
saucepan or a tinned copper basin with twelve ounces of powdered sugar and a quarter of a vanilla 
stick; beat well together and dilute with three pints of milk and the infused coffee; stir this cream 
on a slow fire to thicken without boiling, and as soon as the preparation has attained the correct 
consistency transfer it to a well tinned metal vessel and stir occasionally while cooling; strain it 
twice, the last time through an exceedingly fine sieve. Try a small part in a freezer packed in ice 
to discover its consistency, and if too thin add some thirty-two degree syrup, and raw cream if too 
thick. Freeze by working it until firm and smooth. 

Virgin Coffee Cream is prepared with egg-whites instead of yoiks, exactly the same way, the 
proportions being, half a pound of coffee, one quart of milk, sixteen egg-whites instead of the. 
yolks, ten ounces of sugar, a quart of cream and a quarter of a vanilla stick. 


990 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3461), ICE CREAM WITH ALMONDS, FRESH OR DRIED NUTS (Créme d’Amandes ou de Noix 4 


Fraiches ou Séches), 


If there be any almonds or fresh nuts on hand peel to remove the skin, but should dried ones 
be used soak them in cold water for twelve hours, lift out and peel off their skins. Take halfa 
pound of either fresh nuts or almonds and pound them with a pint of milk. Mix in a tinned basin 
ten raw egg-yolks with ten ounces of sugar, beat well together and add a pint and a half of very 


rich milk or fresh cream and a sixth part of a vanilla stick; stir on the fire to thicken withou§ __ 


boiling. As soon as done remove the cream from the fire, mix in the pounded nuts, then pour into 
a glazed bowl to cool off while stirring occasionally; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. 

For almond ice cream a few bitter almonds and a little kirsch may be added, and a little 
maraschino for those made of fresh nuts. 


(3462). ICE CREAM WITH MARASOHINO, PRUNELLE, KIRSCH, TEA OR ALL-FLOWER 
(Orme au Marasquin, Prunelle, Kirsch, Thé ou Mille-Fleurs), 


Place in a tinned basin twelve ounces of sugar, ten egg-yolks, the peel of one lemon and dilute 
with three pints of boiling milk; thicken the preparation on the fire while stirring, and as soon as 


done strain through a sieve into a vessel and stir occasionally till cold; freeze the sameas explained _ 
in No. 3427; transfer the ice to a small long freezer to finish and when smooth and firm incorpo- — 


rate slowly into it a gill and a half of maraschino or one gill of kirsch or prunelle or else a gill of 
infused tea or highly concentrated all-flower, either of the two last named requiring the 
addition of a little rum. Both liqueurs and infusions should be mixed in the ice cream slowly. 


(3463), ICE CREAM WITH EGGS AND BLACK COFFEE, WITHOUT EGGS, LIGHT WITH 
BLACK COFFEE (Créme aux Chufs et au Café Noir, Creme Sans Giufs Légére au Café Noir). 


With Eggs and Black Coffee.—Prepare half a pint of very strong coffee, using Mocha, Jaya 
and Maracaibo, a pound in all, ground very finely and put into a filter (Fig. 774); moisten with a 
quart of boiling water and strain it entirely two or three times. Have in a tinned basin ten raw 
egg-yolks and eight ounces of sugar; add half a pint of boiling milk, a quarter of a vanilla bean 
and the infused coffee. Set the basin on a slow fire and stir until consistent enough to cover the 
spatula; let get cold, then add one pint of cream; pass through a fine sieve and freeze. 


Without Eggs, Light with Black Coffee.—Dissolve half a pound of sugar in a quart of good 
cold milk; add half a pint of very strong coffee prepared the same as the above, infusing in it the 
fourth part of a vanilla stick; pass through a sieve and freeze. After it has been properly worked 
mix in as much well-drained whipped cream and at the same time half a pound of powdered sugar; 
stir well and pack in ice to use when needed. All light creams should be served the same day as 
prepared. 


(3464), IGE CREAM WITH PIGNONS, BRAZILIAN NUTS, WALNUTS OR HAZEL-NUTS (Créme 


Glace aux Pignons, aux Noix de Brésil, aux Grosses Noix ou Noisettes), 


Cook one pound of sugar slightly wetted to three hundred and thirty-eight degrees Fahrenheit 
or ‘‘crack” (No. 171); add half a pound of pignons or Brazilian nuts or even common walnuts or 
hazel-nuts; the nuts selected must be first roasted; boil once or twice in the sugar, then pour on 4 
marble to leave till cold, when pound with a pint of cream. Break ten egg-yolks in a tinned basin, 
dilute with a pint of boiled milk, having already had infused in it a quarter of a vanilla stick; 
cook without boiling and when the preparation covers the spatula remove it from the fire, add to 
it the pounded nuts and cream and leave stand till cold; strain through a fine sieve and freeze as an 
‘ordinary 1ce cream (No. 3427). 


(3465), IGE CREAM WITH ROASTED OR BOILED CHESTNUTS (Crime aux Marrons Rotis on 
Bouillig), 


With Roasted Chestnuts.—Split the chestnuts on their sides, roast and skin; put them with a 
pound of sugar into a copper pan, adding three gills of water; cook the sugar to three hundred and 
thirty-eight degrees Fahrenheit, or a little above the ‘‘crack;” pour it on a marble and as soon as cold 
pound with a small quantity of cream; place it in a tinned basin with fifteen egg-yolks, a quart of 
cream and the quarter of a vanilla bean. Set the basin on a slow fire to cook the mixture without 
boiling and as soon as it covers the spoon remove’ from the fire, cool, strain and freeze. 









ICES. 991 


With Boiled. Chestnuts.—Suppress the hard outer shell and red inside skin from a pound of 
chestnuts; boil them in milk with a little vanilla, and when tender rub through a sieve. Pour this 
purée into a vessel and dilute with a gill of vanilla cream No. 1 (No. 3458); strain, cool and freeze, 
working it vigorously, and when smooth and firm mix in half as much very firm and slightly sweet- 
ened whipped cream and half a gill of maraschino. 


(3466), ICE CREAM WITHOUT COOKING (Glaces sans Cuisson), 


Vanitia. —Mix well together one quart of good cream, half a pound of sugar and half a stick 
of vanilla infused in a little milk; when'the sugar has melted pass the whole through a fine silver 
wired sieve, and freeze either by machine or in a freezer, turning and detaching the cream with a 
spatula as fast as it adheres to the sides; after it has solidified finish by working with the spatula, 
turning the freezer by a rotary movement with this spatula. Instead of vanilla infusion extract 
of vanilla may be used. 


Chocolate.—Boil a quart and a half of cream and with it dissolve half a pound of chocolate 
melted in a slack oven; add three pounds of sugar, mix well and stir in three quarts of raw cream 
and a littie vanilla extract; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. 


Orange Flower Water.—Boil one quart of milk with a quarter of a pound of sugar; dissolve 
two tablespoonfuls of corn starch, and stir it into the boiling milk, beating it with a whip; color 
to a fine green, strain through a sieve, and allow to cool. Beat one quart of cream, add six ounces 
of sugar and a little orange flower water; freeze and incorporate it into the above. Use this cream 


either for molding or dressing with a spoon. 


Lemon.—One quart of cream which has had the peel of a lemon infused therein for one hour; 
add half a pound of sugar, strain and freeze the same as vanilla. 


Coffee.—Prepare one pint of coffee, composed of four ounces of cold Mocha mixed with a pint 
of cream and twelve ounces of sugar; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. 


Light Chocolate.—Have two ounces of chocolate melted in a pint of milk; pass through a sieve, 
and cool off. Mix one quart of firm whipped cream and three-quarters of a pound of sugar; freeze 


and add the chocolate very slowly. 


(3467), FIORI DI LATTE A LA BELLINI (Fiori di Latte & 1a Bellini), 


Tho fiori di latte is a light preparation composed of Italian meringue with hot syrup cooked to 
thirty-five degrees; add flavorings, also as much whipped, well-drained cream, sweetened when 
drained with a quarter of a pound of sugar for each quart of cream. The meringue and cream are 
to be well but lightly combined. This cream is used for filling molds the same shape as shown in 
Fig. 628. 


Fiori di Latte & la Bellint.—Whip firmly one pint of cream and pour it on a wire sieve to drain 
for two hours. Out in quarter-inch squares eight ounces of fruits, such as pineapple, cherries, 
orange and lemon peel, also a few shredded pistachios; lay these in a vessel, pour maraschino over 
and let macerate for one hour, then drain. Prepare an Italian meringue with four egg-whites 
beaten to a stiff froth, and a pint of hot thirty-five degree syrup; allow to cool, then mix it in with 
the whipped cream and well-drained fruits. Pack atwo-quart mold in salted ice; cover the insides 
with a quarter-inch thick coating of uncooked strawberry ice cream (No. 3451); place the prepa- 
ration into the empty space, letting the mold be quite full; press the cover on forcibly, imbed and 
freeze for one hour. Unmold by dipping it into warm water, the same as for all other ices, and 
invert it on a folded napkin, as shown in the drawing. 


(3468), FIORI DI LATTE A LA ORLANDINI (Fiori di Latte & Ja Orlandini). 


Whip a pint of cream, then drain on a sieve; grate the peel of a good orange on lump sugar, 
and scrape off the part impregnated with the peel. Make an Italian meringue preparation with 


five eggs (No. 140), add the sugar flavored with the peel to the sugar used for making the me- 
ringue; leave stand till cold, then incorporate gently the whipped cream without beating, and add 
candied citron peel cut up finely, and a little powdered vanilla. Fill a fiori di latte mold (Fig. 


628), with a coating of chocolate a quarter of an inch thick, pour in the preparation, and finish the 
same as a la Bellini (No. 3467). 


992 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3469), FIORI DI LATTE WITH VANILLA OR OTHER FLAVORINGS (Fiori di Latte a la 
Vanille ou Autres Parfums), 


Beat up a pint of whipped cream; drain ona sieve. Whip five egg-whites quite stiff; cook 
eight ounces of sugar with half a vanilla bean to thirty-five degrees; suppress the vanilla and mix 
the sugar with the egg-whites, a little at a time, while stirring the meringue constantly; leave to 
cool on ice. Coat a fiori di latte mold with pistachio ice cream (No. 3454); pack in ice (have the 
coating only a quarter-inch thick); fill the center of this shell quite full, pressing down the prepara- 
tion with the cover and imbed in ice, allowing one hour’s freezing for each quart. Unmold on a 
folded napkin and serve. This ice may be prepared and finished the same way, only putting in 
the eighth part of a vanilla stick instead of half a one, and after the preparation is quite firm add- 
ing either maraschino, kirsch, prunelle, Curacgoa, almond milk, or concentrated orange flower 
water, just enough to have the preparation nicely flavored. — 


(3470), FIORI DI LATTE WITH VIOLETS, BURNT ALMONDS AND PISTACHIOS (Fiori di 
Latte & la Fleur de Violette, aux Pralines et aux Pistaches), 


Cook two ounces of violet leaves in two ounces of sugar, and when this has reached ‘ crack” 


(No. 171), pour it on a marble to cool, then pound and run it througha sieve. Whip apint of cream 
till very firm, and drain it on a sieve. Beat five egg- 
whites toa stiff froth, mix into them three gills of hot 
thirty-five degree syrup, and cool this meringue by stand- 
ing the basin on ice; mix together lightly the whipped 
cream, Italian meringue and violet sugar. Pack a 
fiori di latte mold (Fig. 628) in salted ice and line it 
with a coating of virgin maraschino ice cream, finishing 
as the Bellini (No. 3467). 


Burnt Almonds and Pistachios.—The same prepa- 
ration as the above; after mixing the whipped cream 
with the Italian meringue add two ounces of crushed 
E burnt almonds and two ounces of shredded pistachios, 

Fie, 628, also two tablespoonfuls of orange flower water. Mix 

well together and with this fill a mold coated with virgin 

orange ice cream (No. 3459). Fiori di latte can also be flavored with either chocolate, coffee, 

cinnamon, lemon, orange or Seville orange. Peel the three latter very finely, cut the skins up 
very thin or else chop them, or fruits with well-flavored juices may be substituted, ete. 

















(3471), MOUSSE A LA SEMIRAMIS (Mousse a la Sémiramis), 


Lay a quart of well-whipped cream on a sieve to have it drain well. Pound four ounces of 
freshly shelled sweet almonds with half an 

ounce of coriander seeds and three gills of 
water; put this in a basin with twelve ounces 
of sugar; color to a pretty light red shade; 
add slowly and lightly the whipped cream. 
Imbed a high dome-shaped mold (Fig. 629) 
in ice, and fill with the preparation, into 
which add a salpicon of fruits cut in quarter- 
inch squares, soaked in maraschino and 
drained. Pack in ice, freeze for one hour SE oe 

for each quart of preparation, unmold overa napkin and surround with cakes iced with kirsch or rum. 


(3472), MOUSSE A LA SIRAUDIN (Mousse & la Siraudin), 


Whip a quart of cream till quite firm, lay it on a sieve and when well drained mix into it 
eight ounces of icing sugar and a salpicon of fruits cut in Squares and marinated in kirsch. Filla 
high dome-shaped mold with this preparation, pack in ice, freeze an hour for each quart, and un- 


mold on a very cold dish; cover the top with Italian cream, decorating it with fruits; freeze once 
more and serve. 












worse TOMS! a sie 993 


(3473), COFFEE OR CHOCOLATE MOUSSE (Mousse au Café ou au Chocolat), 


In former days they mingled milk, sugar and flavoring together, and when the preparatiom 


was beaten to a stiff froth it was lifted up with a skimmer, drained on a sieve and glasses were: 


filled with it which were then frozen in ice-packed boxes. Now the process is different. A mousse 
preparation is simply cream beaten till very light, sweetened properly and flavored with natural 


flavors, liquors or essences. 


With Coffee.—Beat a quart of cream till very light, drain it on a sieve and when thoroughly 
drained put it into a tin basin and mix in twelve ounces of sugar, a gill of coffee and some vanilla. 
essence. Imbed a high-dome mold in ice, fill it with the preparation, fasten on the cover, 
imbed it well and freeze. It will take about one hour for each quart. Unmold the mousse on a 
napkin and surround with small cakes. 


With Chocolate.—-Dissolve two ounces of cocoa at the oven door, dilute it with two gills of 
twenty-six degree syrup, strain through a sieve and mix in gradually three beaten egg-whites, six 
ounces of sugar and a quart of well-whipped, drained cream. Pack a tall-dome mold in salted ice, 
fill it with the preparation, then freeze. A quart of cream takes about one hour to freeze. 


_ (8474), FRUIT MOUSSES WITH PINEAPPLE OR OTHER FRUITS (Mousses & !'Ananas ou a. 


e d’Autres Fruits), 

_ Strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, pineapple, etc., to be used. A quart of cream 
must be whipped till very light; drain it on a sieve and then transfer it to-a bowl; add a pound of 
pineapple purée and one pound of sugar, mixing both together with a little vanilla and a gill of 
kirsch, whip the preparation in a tin basin on ice for ten minutes to have the cream and pulp 
assimilate well together. Coat the inside of a high-dome mold with virgin strawberry cream 
(No. 3451), fill the center quite full with the preparation, and close the mold. Pack it in ice for 
one hour for each quart, unmold on a napkin and surround with small iced cakes. Strawberries, 
raspberries, apricots, peaches or other fruits may be substituted for the pineapple. 


(8475), ITALIAN MOUSSE (Mousse 4 I’Italienne), 


- This mousse will require three separate preparations: One of strawberry, one of vanilla and: 
one of pistachios; mold it in a two-quart high-dome mold (Fig. 629). Incrust the mold in salted 
ice, cover and leave till perfectly cold. Make the three preparations as follows: 

The Strawberry.—Mix one pint of strawberry pulp with a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar 
(No. 3165); beat on ice for ten minutes, and lightly add one pint of well-whipped and thoroughly 
drained cream. _ 

The Vanilla.—Half a pint of whipped cream and three ounces of pounded sugar; add a little: 
vanilla pounded and passed through a silk sieve; mix it in lightly with the mousse. 

The Pistachio.—Have half a pint of very light whipped cream, three ounces of sugar, half # 
gill of almond milk, a little orange flower water and a small quantity of spinach green; beat the 
whole lightly. Fill the bottom of the mold one-third of its height and very even with the straw- 
berry cream; on this lay exactly in the center some macaroons soaked in maraschino; freeze this for~ 
twenty minutes, then put into it another layer of the vanilla, finishing the center with soaked! 
macaroons; the mold should now be two-thirds filled. Freeze for twenty minutes and finish with» 
the pistachio cream. Close the mold hermetically and pack in ice for one hour and a half... 
Unmold on a folded napkin. 


" (8476), MOUSSE WITH LIQUORS (Mousse aux Liqueurs), 

Whip a quart of cream until very firm, drain on a sieve and when finished return it to a basin. 
to mix in ten ounces of sugar, and half a gill of either Curagoa, maraschino, noyau, kirsch, 
aniseed, chartreuse, etc., flavoring but slightly with vanilla. Fill a dome-form mold with this, 
previously coated with any kind of water ice laid on in stripes. 


(3477), MOUSSE WITH MACAROONS OR CHESTNUTS (Mousse aux Macarons ou Marrons), 


With Macaroons.—Beat a quart of cream till very light, drain on a sieve and mix into it tens 
ounces of sugar; coat a high-dome mold with virgin maraschino cream and fill it in three distinct: 
layers, alternating each one with broken macaroons soaked in kirsch; imbed in ice and freeze one» 
hour for each quart; unmold on a napkin and surround with lady bouchées with maraschino. 


994 THE EPICUREAN. | = 




















With Chestnuts.—Whip one quart of cream and drain on a sieve. Prepare half a pound o fo 
chestnuts boiled in milk with a little vanilla pounded and pressed through a sieve; dilute with as 
pint of thirty-degree syrup and half a gill of maraschino; incorporate the whipped cream lightly 
into this purée; pack a mousse mold in ice, line it with a coating of ice cream made without eggs 
and flavored with prunelle, and fill it in three separate layers with the preparation, the same as the 
mousse with macaroons, only using crushed chestnuts soaked in maraschino; freeze the molds; 
unmold and dress on a napkin; decorate around with cream cakes garnished with apricot marma- — 
lade (No. 3675). r 


| (3478), PARFAIT WITH NOUGAT AND WITH ALMONDS (Parfait au Nougat et aux Amandes), 


Boil four gills of syrup to twenty degrees with half a vanilla bean; pour this slowly over ten ; 
egg-yolks beaten in a vessel, after removing the vanilla; whip the preparation 
well over the fire until it is as thick as a cream, but avoid having it boil, 
then remove and stir continuously until frothy and cold; now beat it again 
on ice to give consistency, and incorporate two quarts of wail: drained whipped — 
cream, also half a pound of almond nougat (No. 3621) crushed finely with a 4 ; 
rolling-pin. Place the preparation in a three-quart bomb or parfait mold (Fig. 
630) lined with paper, incrust in salted ice, and put onthe lid, cementing the 
joints with butter; cover this with a thick layer of salted ice, then freeze for 
two hours and a half; lastly remove the mold, wash it quickly in cold water, 
wipe and unmold the parfait on a folded napkin; remove the paper and 
serve surrounded by small cakes. : 

With Almonds.—Have the same preparation as for the parfait mith a 
nougat. Pound half a pound of new, freshly shelled almonds with a little 
water, vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and noyau; when pounded to a pulp use them instead of the nougat — 
and finish exactly the same as for the above. If the two ices are to be served in the same mold have 
a waffle partition the same size as the center of the mold; fill one side of it with parfait with 
nougat, atid the other side with parfait with almonds. 




















Fic. 620. 


(3479), EXCELLENT WITH COFFEE AND PARFAIT WITH COFFEE (Excellent au Café et 
Parfait au Café), *& 

Excellent with Coffee.—Boil three pints of cream, mix in three-quarters of a pound of good 
freshly roasted coffee, not having it too dark; leave infuse for half an hour, being careful to keep 
the saucepan covered. Place sixteen egg-yolks in a tin- 
ued basin, add half a pound of sugar, stir together and 
cook on a slow fire, beating continuously until such a 
consistency is obtained that it will cover the spatula; 
remove the basin from the fire, leave till cold, then strain 
through a fine sieve; freeze in a spherical freezer and 
when the composition begins to congeal add half a gill of 
thirty-two degree vanilla syrup (No. 3165); when almost 
hard put in another gill of the same syrup and as much 
whipped and slightly sweetened cream as there is prep- 
aration. Fill some boxes, the same as illustrated in 
Fig. 631, and lay them on top of soclos made of colored 
water (No. 3484). Place a spun sugar ornament on the 
summit. 

Parfait with Coffee.—Infuse for half an hour six 
ounces of freshly roasted coffee and the fourth part of 
a vanilla bean in one pint of boiling cream; into a basin 
lay eight egg-yolks and a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
diluting with the infusion; set the basin on a slow fire, 
stir steadily until the mixture covers the spatula and 
leave till cold; pass it through a fine sieve. Cleanthe = Hl 
basin, return the preparation to it and whip on ice) SSS 
quite light, adding as much whipped cream. Fill a 
bomb-shaped mola (Fig. 630) with this, lay a paper over, then the cover and imbed in salted ice; 
freeze for one hour for one quart, two quarts requiring an hour and a half; the larger the mold tne 
longer it will take. 


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Fic. 632. oe 


ICES. | 995 


(3480), PLOMBIERE ALA MONTESQUIEU (Plombitre & la Montesquieu). 


Cook half a pound of rice in plenty of water with the Juice of four lemons; drain and place it 
in a vessel to cover with a hot thirty-two degree syrup, draining this off an hour later. Put sixteen 
egg-yolks in a basin with half a pound of sugar, beat both together and mix in a pint of boiling 
milk; cook this, without allowing it to ‘boil, until the preparation covers the spoon, then take it 





from the fire, let cool and pour in a pint of cream; pass the whole through a fire sieve and freeze; 
stir in the rice and a quart of well-drained whipped cream. Cut some preserved pineapple and 
melon in three-eighths inch squares and macerate in kirsch for two hours. Coat a plombiére mold 
with uncooked lemon ice cream; fill the center with the rice cream, put on the cover and freeze 
for one hour for each quart. | Unmold on a napkin and garnish around with small lady’s bouchées 
(No. 3376) iced with coffee icing; on top and in the middle place the macerated fruits and send to 
the table with a sauce-boatful of prunelle sauce, made with vanilla and whipped cream, to which 
some prunelle has been added. 


(8481), PLOMBIERE A LA RICHMOND (Plombiare & la Richmond), 


Make a Genoese biscuit preparation as herewith described: Mix in a basin one pound of powdered 
sugar, twelve whole eggs and a grain of salt; beat this over a slow fire, and remove to incorporate 
slowly one pound of sifted flour and one pound of warm melted butter, also the well-chopped peel 
of an orange. Take a round mold seven inches in diameter by one and a half indepth; butter and 
flour the interior, then fill it three-quarters full with the preparation, and bake in a slack oven; spread 
the remainder of the paste on a sheet of paper toa quarter of an inch in thickness, and bake this 
also in a hot oven. After removing the thin biscuit from the fire cut it into half rounds two inches 
in diameter with a channeled pastry cutter (Fig. 16); leave them to cool, coat over with apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675), then cover with a layer of orange sugar icing (No. 102). When the round 
Genoese is cooked and cold, apricot it over, and in the center, on the apricot, place a round piece of 
strong paper six inches in diameter, and ice the whole with rum icing (No. 102). Lay it 
on a grate and make an incision around the biscuit at half an inch from the edge; remove 
the icing and paper from the center; scoop out the cake; set it on a dish, and put it on 
ice until ready to serve. Imbed a plombiére mold (Fig. 632) on ice; fill the bottom and 
sides with a coating of maraschino ice cream (No. 3462), and fill the inside with a prep- 
aration made with three-quarters of a pound of pounded roasted hazel-nuts, adding slowly a quart 
of cream to them; put this into a vessel with an orange peel, infuse for one hour, and strain 
forcibly through a fine sieve; add a gill of vanilla syrup (No. 3165) and eight ounces of sugar, freeze, 
then put in as much whipped cream. Mold it in layers, alternating each one with hazel-nut 
macaroons (No. 3386). Then unmold the plombiére into the cavity of the cake, surround the base 
of the plombiére with the above half-rounds of Genoese, and serve separately a sauce made with 
well-drained whipped cream flavored with kirsch, to which has been added candied apricots cut 
in small squares of a quarter of an inch, previously macerated in kirsch. 


(3482), PLOMBIERE A LA ROCHAMBEAU (Plombitre & la Rochambeau), 
Pound half a pound of peeled almonds, but a few at a time, soaked for several hours in cold 
water, adding a little water at frequent intervals, then transfer from the mortar to a glazed vessel. 
Prepare an English cream (No. 42) with a quart of milk, half a pound of sugar, eight to ten egg- 


996 THE EPICUREAN. 


yolks and a stick of vanilla split in two; as this becomes thick pour it over the almonds and stir 
occasionally while cooling, then strain forcibly through a tammy and leave till thoroughly cold. — 

Pour this cream into a deep freezer imbedded in salted ice, work it vigorously until smooth and 
firm—this will take forty minutes—then incorporate two or three spoonfuls of kirsch mixed — ’ 
with a little orange syrup. Five to six minutes later stir in a pint of sweetened whipped 
cream, after adding to it a few spoonfuls of the almond preparation to prevent it from 
granulating; work again for ten to twelve minutes. Freeze a plombiére mold; coat it with nougat 
ice-cream (No. 3452) and at the bottom range some lady fingers soaked in prunelle; cover these 
with the above ice and on top of this place some preserved greengages, macerated for a quarter of — 

an hour in kirsch and thick syrup, then drained. After the mold is full close the lid forcibly, 
pack it in salted ice and freeze for one hour for each quart. Unmold the plombiére on a 
folded napkin and surround the base with small iced Genoese cakes; fill the hollow center of the — 
plombiére with some of the greengages infused in kirsch and serve separately, in a sauce tureens 

whipped cream with a little kirsch added, mixing it well. 


(3483), PLOMBIERE D’ALENGON (Plombiére d’Alengon), 


Fill a plombiére mold with Chantilly cream (whipped cream made ‘with a quart of cream 
and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, both firmly whipped together); place on the 
cover forcibly and pack it in ice, leaving it in a quarter of an hour for each quart; remove the — : 
cover and take out the contents, leaving only a thin three-eighths of an inch coating, then fillup the 
inside with alternate layers of No. 1 vanilla ice-cream (No. 3458), having half as much whipped 
cream added to it, intermingling 1t with macaroons soaked in maraschino or kirsch; fill it quite 
full, put back the cover neatly and pack in ice, freezing one hour and a half for two quarts; un- 
mold and garnish the hollow on top of the plombiere with preserved peaches (No. 3682) and 
cherries, the former cut into pieces and softened in a light syrup with maraschino; place here and 
there a few lozenges of angelica; garnish around with various small cakes. Sauce. of whipped. 
cream flavored with noyau should be served apart. 


(3484), PLOMBIERE, HAVANESE STYLE (Plombiére & la Havanaise), 


Put ten egg-yolks in a tinned basin with eight ounces of sugar; beat both well together 
with a whip and dilute with a pint of boiling milk; cook without boiling and when the preparation 
covers the spoon remove from the fire and allow to cool. Now add one pint of cream and 
the pulp of twelve very ripe bananas. Pass all of this through a fine sieve and freeze. Then 
incorporate the same quantity of whipped cream, and a gill and a half of maraschino. Coat a 
plombiére mold with Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446); fill it quite full with the banana cream, 
fasten the cover on tight, pack in ice and freeze one hour for each quart; unmold and fill the hol- 
low center in the mold with slices of raw pineapple, quartered, pared to the pulp, then macerated 
in maraschino. The sauce required for this is composed of apricots and maraschino. 


(3495), PLOMBIERE WITH CHERRIES (Plombitre aux Cerises). 


Suppress the stalks and pips from one pound of cherries; pound and press through a sieve; 
into this pulp mix five gills of cold thirty-degree syrup, a few bits of lemon peel and some lemon 
juice; pass the preparation once more, then stir in an infusion made with a part of the crushed 
cherry pips and some light syrup. Bring it to twenty-two degree syrup, then freeze the whole, the 
Same as an ordinary ice. After it becomes firm and smooth incorporate a few spoonfuls of kirsch, 
ten minutes later transfer three or four spoonfuls to a vessel and mix in with it six or seven gills of 
well-whipped rich cream, properly drained and sweetened; stir this at once into the principal prep- 
aration, but only a little at a time, to have the mixture more perfect. Beat the whole well for a. 
few moments longer so that it attains body. Coat a plombiére mold with kirsch ice cream (No. 
3462), fill it full with the above, close properly and freeze. Unmold on a napkin and decorate the 
summit of the cupola with candied cherries that have been softened in light syrup and macerated 
in kirsch for one hour previously, and then well drained. 


(3486), PLOMBIERE WITH CHESTNUTS (Plombitre aux Marrons). 


Pack a plombiére mold in salted ice; line the bottom and sides with a thin layer of vanilla ice 
cream (No. 3458) and the center with chestnut cream (No. 3465), having the mold perfectly full; 
fasten on the coyer forcibly, then freeze, allowing one hour for each quart of the plombiére; 
unmold and range it on a folded napkin; fill the hollow in the mold with chestnuts in juice 
flavored with maraschino. Stick between the chestnuts lozenge shaped pieces of angelica. 





PCH 2h 8 997 





(3487), BANANA PUDDING (Pouding aux Bananes), 


The composition for this is one pint of banana pulp, one pint of thirty-five degree syrup and 
a gill of lemon juice; bring this to twenty-two degrees test, then pass it through a sieve and freeze, 
Incorporating two Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140). Coat a two-quart pudding mold 





with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458); on the bottom place a layer of the banana ice, on this 
some slices of banana macerated for one hour in maraschino, and bestrewn with finely powdered 
sugar, also some biscuits soaked in Curagoa, then another layer of banana ice, more sliced bananas 
and more biscuits, proceeding until the mold is thoroughly filled; freeze in salted ice for one hour 
anda half. Invert the pudding on a folded napkin and serve at the same time a sauce composed 
‘of whipped cream, vanilla ice cream and kirsch, the whole well mixed. 


(3488), BISCUIT PUDDING (Pouding aux Biscuits), 


Crumble one pound of very dry Savoy biscuit (No. 3231). Put twelve egg-yolks in a basin 
‘with six ounces of sugar; beat, add the crumbled biscuit and a quart of boiling milk; cook this on 
‘a slow fire without boiling, and when the preparation covers the spoon remove the basin from the 
fire, allow to cool, then strain through a sieve and freeze. Pack a two-quart pudding mold in 
‘salted ice; coat the inside with pistachio ice cream (No. 3454) and fill the center in alternate layers 
of the above ice, slices of biscuit soaked in maraschino, and a salpicon of fruits; continue until the 
mold is full, finishing the top with ice cream, then freeze for one hour for each quart. Unmold 
on a folded napkin and serve with a separate sauce made of vanilla ice cream beaten in a metal 
owl, mixing in some rum and whipped cream. 


(3489), CAVOUR PUDDING (Pouding & la Cavour), 


Pick, wash and cook in an abundance of water half a pound of Piedmontese rice, leaving it 
poil for twenty minutes; then drain it off and place it in a vessel to maeerate for two hours in a 
hot twenty-two degree vanilla syrup; afterward drain. Break ten raw egg-yolks in a tinned copper 
asin; add eight ounces of sugar and mix well, stirring in a pint of boiling milk; cook this prep- 
aration on a slow fire without boiling and without ceasing to stir until it covers. the spatula, then 
remove; allow to cool and add to it one pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of almonds pounded 
with two gills of water; strain this forcibly through a sieve and freeze. Coat a two-quart pudding 
mold with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), fill up the inside in distinct layers of the prepared ice cream, 
well-drained rice, and preserved pineapple cut in three-eighths of an inch squares. Freeze 
for one hour and a half in salted ice for each quart of pudding, then turn it out on a napkin 
and serve. Serve separately a sauce made of vanilla ice cream mingled with rum and whipped 
cream. 


(3490), CONSTANCE PUDDING (Pouding a la Constance), 


Pour a quart of cream into a vessel to stir with ten ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165); strain 
through a sieve and freeze. Prepare a salpicon of fruits, such as apricots, cherries, plums and 
pineapple, also have some macaroons stuffed with apricot and macerated in maraschino. Imbed a 
two-quart pudding mold (Fig. 633) in salted ice; coat it with a thin layer of uncooked strawberry 
ice cream (No. 3451) and fill it in layers composed of the above vanilla ice cream, the fruits, more 
vanilla ice cream and then the macaroons, continuing until perfectly full, having the last layer of 
ice cream; force on the cover and freeze for one hour and a half, Invert and dress on a napkin, 
- serving separately a sauce made with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) finished with maraschino. 


998 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(3491), DIPLOMAT PUDDING (Pouding & la Diplomate), 


Prepare a salpicon of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch squares, selecting pineapple, cherries, — 
almonds, apricots, orange peel and Smyrna raisins; pour over some hot twenty-degree syrup 
flavored with rum, and let all macerate for half an hour. Put in a tinned copper basin, ten egg- . 
yolks and six ounces of sugar; beat well together and dilute with a pint of boiling milk; cook with- — 
out allowing it to come to a boil, then cool off and add one pint of cream; strain through a sieve, 


freeze, flavor with maraschino, and mix in half as much very firm and well-drained whipped cream, 
Cut up some slices of Savoy biscuit (No. 3231). Take a two-quart pudding mold, incrust it in ice, 


line it with a layer of uncooked Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446), and on the bottom have the 2 


sliced biscuit previously soaked in rum; scatter a part of the fruit salpicon over, then place a 
layer of the ice cream, and continue in this way to fill the mold, finishing the top with the ice 


cream; set the cover on tight, pack it well in salted ice, and freeze for one hour anda half, then _ 


unmold on a napkin and serve with a sauce made of vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) flavored with 
rum, mixing into it half as much whipped cream (No. 50). 


(3492), DUCHESS PUDDING (Pounding a la Duchesse), 


Cook six very ripe peeled pears in a twelve-degree syrup; drain and rub them through a sieve; 


put this pulp in a vessel with two gills of syrup at thirty-five degrees, and one gill of lemon juice; 
strain the whole, bring it to twenty-two degrees and freeze. Cut some candied pineapple and can- 
died cherries (half a pound of each) in quarter-inch pieces, boil them in a little thirty-degree syrup, 
leave to cool and drain. To the ice add two egg-whites of Italian meringue, and the well-drained. 
fruits. Imbed a two-quart pudding mold in ice; coat the inside with a quarter of an inch layer 
of maraschino ice cream (No. 3462), and put in the pear ice; place the cover on, pack it well in 
salted ice, freeze, allowing one hour for each quart, then unmold and dress on a napkin. Accom- 
pany this pudding by a sauce prepared as follows: Put one Italian meringue egg-white in a metal 
bowl; stir it well with the juice of an orange and a few drops of extract of pears and a little. 
champagne. 


(3493), FLEURY PUDDING (Pounding 4 la Fleury), 


Mix in a vessel one quart of apricot pulp, ten ounces of sugar, one gill of almond milk (No. 4): 
and half a gill of kirsch; bring it to twenty-two degrees of the saccharometer, then strain through a 
sieve and freeze; mix in half as much whipped cream. Have a two-quart pudding mold packed in 
ice; coat the inside with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451), and fill it in.layers composed of the 
above prepared cream; between each layer arrange a macédoine of fresh fruits macerated in kirseh 


and some biscuits soaked in maraschino; let the last layer be ice cream; pack and freeze for one 


hour and a half; unmold and serve with a separate sauce made of strawberry ice cream, mixing: 
into it a little kirsch and whipped cream. 


(3494), IMPERIAL RICE PUDDING (Pouding de Riz 4 l’Impériale).. 


Coat a two-quart pudding mold with almond ice cream (No. 3461). Have some vanilla ice 
cream (No. 3458) and mix intoit half as much well-drained whipped cream. In the bottom of the 
mold inside the coating range a layer of this vanilla cream and on it one of paradise rice (No. 3456); 
place over this some biscuits and macaroons steeped in maraschino, and cover with more vanilla 
cream, then more rice and a salpicon of fruits, finishing with vanilla cream, so that the mold be 
entirely full and the cover packed on tight. Imbed and freeze one hour and a half; unmold and 
dress on a napkin, and serve with a sauce made of apricot marmalade (No. 8675) dissolved im 
maraschino, stirring in some thoroughly drained whipped cream (No. 50). 


(3495), NESSELRODE PUDDING WITH CANDIED CHESTNUTS (Pounding a la Nesselrode aux 
Maryrons Confits), 


Have ready a chestnut ice cream (No. 3465); mix into it a quarter as much Italian meringue 
(No. 140), and flavor with maraschino. Coat a two-quart pudding mold with vanilla ice cream 
(No. 3458); at the bottom lay a bed of the chestnut ice cream, placing a few broken candied chest- 
nuts here and there, then another layer of chestnut cream, and continue until the mold is per- 
fectly full, finishing with the cream; force on the cover, and freeze for an hour anda half. Un- 
mold and dress on a napkin. Serve separately a sauce made with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), 
into which mix whipped cream and maraschino. 





| 
| 





ICES. 






(3496), PLUM PUDDING (Plum Pouding), 


7) 
ae 


W little vanilla, and one quart of cold syrup at thirty degrees; strain through 
_ asieve and freeze; now add two Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140), 
some seeded Malaga and Smyrna raisins, currants, orange, lemon and 
_ citron peel cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, all of these pre- 







Melt half a pound of chocolate in a quart of water, add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, a 








_ viously boiled in a little twenty-two degree syrup, then drained and 


Coat a two-quart pudding mold with chocolate ice cream (No. 3449); fill 
_ it with the preparation, freeze as usual and unmold an hour and a half 


whipped cream (No. 50) and rum; pour a third of ‘the sauce on the pud- 
_ ding and serve the other two-thirds apart. 


macerated for one hour in kirsch; drain and mix them well into the ice. 


later, on a dish without a napkin. Make the sauce of vanilla (No. 3458), 





(8497), ROMANOFF PUDDING (Pouding & la Romanoff), 


Make a chestnut cream the same as described for chestnut ice cream (No. 3465), having the 


_ chestnuts cooked with sugar. After this is frozen incorporate half the same quantity of 


whipped cream (No. 50). Have a two-quart pudding mold (Fig. 633) packed in salted ice, coat the 


‘interior with uncooked orange ice cream and fill the center in separate layers; first the chestnut 


ice cream, then lady fingers soaked in kiimmel and walnuts well drained from their juice and cut 


_ lengthwise in four; have the top layer of the ice cream; cover the mold. Freeze one hour and a 
half, and turn it out ona napkin. Serve a separate sauce of vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) flavored 


with kirsch, beating it well with whipped cream. : 


(3498,) SERANO PUDDING (Pouding & la Serano), 


- Boil one quart of raspberry pulp, one pound of syrup at thirty-two degrees, one gill of lemon 
juice and vanilla, bringing the whole to a twenty-two degree heat, then strain through a sieve and 
freeze, incorporating into the ice one Italian meringue egg-white (No. 140). Have a pudding mold 
well packed in salted ice; coat the inside with pistachio ice cream (No. 3454). Fill up the mold in 




















Fic. 635. 


alternate layers, having a light strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) on the bottom, then some biscuits 
intercalated with fruits, and over the prepared raspberry ice; continue to fill in the same order: 
raspberry ice, biscuits and fruits cut in small squares. Have the mold well filled, fasten the cover 
on tight, pack in ice and freeze for one hour for each quart; invert it on a napkin and serve with a 
sauce-boat of strawberry sauce mingled with maraschino and whipped cream. 


(3499), SICILIAN PUDDING (Pounding 4 la Sicilienne), 


Out six ounces of slightly roasted almonds lengthwise in four, and six ounces of citron 
and four ounces of orange peel cut the same size. Coat a two-quart pudding mold with pistachio 
ice cream (No. 3454); mix the almonds and fruits with chocolate ice cream (No. 3449), adding a little 
cinnamon and one Italian meringue egg-white (No. 140); fill with this, laying in the center a little 
orange jelly (No. 3668). Pack in salted ice, unmolding on a napkin an hour and a half later. 
The sauce should be made of whipped cream (No. 50), with chocolate%ice cream and brandy stirred 


in; serve it apart. 


1000 THE EPICUREAN. 






(3500), WADDINGTON PUDDING (Pouding & la Waddington), 


Have half a pound of Smyrna raisins, a quarter of a pound of apricot paste and a quarter of 
a pound of orange peel; macerate these in two gills of kirsch. Have also some hazel-nut macca- 
roons (No. 3386) garnished with orange jelly (No. 3668) and some nougat ice cream (No. 3452). 
Coat a two and a half quart pudding mold with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451); on the bottom 
lay a bed of the nougat ice cream, over this the fruits macerated in maraschino and the march- 
pane, then more nougat cream and more fruits and marchpane, and nougat ice cream to finish, 
Close the mold, freeze and unmold two hours later. Prepare a whipped cream sauce, adding 
kirsch, maraschino and vanilla ice cream (No. 3458). 


(3501) PUNOH AND SHERBET (Punch et Sorbet). 


Punch or sherbet is served between the last entrée and the roast. Either one should be 
placed on the bill of fare without a separate heading, merely reading: Sherbet or punch, a la ——, 
The difference between sherbet and punch is that the former is a water ice into which some 
liquor is mixed, while punch is an ice either of water or cream mingled with a quarter as much 
Italian meringue and liquors; for this see Italian meringue (No. 140). Punches and sherbets are 
served either in medium glasses, the size usually used for Bordeaux, without any foot, but providea 
with a handle, or else in fancy cups, either of gum paste or of water tinted to various 
colors, or in many kinds made of cardboard of a basket or other shape, or in the peels of fresh 
fruits. Italian meringue is mixed both in white or colored ices. The size 
for sherbets and punches is eight or ten from each quart. - 


| 
: 


(3502), BEATRICE PUNCH (Punch & la Béatrice), 


For twelve persons take about one quart of lemon water ice (No. 
3604) and add to it two drops of extract of citron. To two well-beaten 
egg-whites put one gill of boiling syrup at thirty-five degrees; lay aside 
to cool and when very cold incorporate in the ice a little good rum, a 
quarter of a bottleful of good champagne and four soupspoonfuls of 
Italian meringue (No. 140); fill with this some swans made of gum paste (No. 3624), having the 
top parts hollow. 





Fig. 636. 


(3508). ieee PUNCH (Punch & la Bouqueti’re) 


For ten sherbets have one pint of orange water ice (No. 3605) and as much strawberry water 
‘ice (No. 3607); mix both together in a freezer with a quarter as much Italian meringue (No. 140); 
add one gill of maraschino and a quarter of a bottleful of champagne. Procure molds the shape 
of Fig. 637 and Fig. 639. The latter mold is furnished with a socket three-sixteenths of an inch 
in diameter in its center, a little higher than the mold. Incrust them well in salted ice and fill Fig. 





Fic. 637. Fic. 638. Fic. 639. 


637 with water whitened with milk, and Fig. 639 with reddened water; after the ice has formed oD 
the sides to an eighth of an inch in thickness empty out the surplus water, dip the mold in hot 
water and unmold quickly. Place the contents of the mold (Fig. 637) in small blue cardboard 
boxes and fill them up with the sherbet. Unmold Fig. 639, lay on top of Fig. 687 so that the 
rounded part be uppermost, fasten a small bunch of natural flowers in the center and then stand 
them in silver-plated rings and these on silver saucers. 


IOES. 1001 










(3504), CHAMPAGNE PUNCH (Punch au Champagne), 


aa Procure some imitation silver champagne pails made of cardboard or gum paste (No. 3624) 
_ Have tin molds to fit into these and incrust them in ice, filling to the top with water. As soon as 
a this becomes frozen sufficiently thick to cover the sides to one-eighth of an inch . 
_ empty out the liquid and unmold, jay these ice pails inside the cardboard ones 
_ and imitate the bottle in gum paste (No. 3624), having the surrounding ice of 
_ White rock candy; these should be laid on the cover. Pour into a small freezer 
_ one quart of pineapple water ice (No. 3606), half a gill of fine brandy, half a gill 
_ of kirsch and two gills of champagne; mix the whole and add as much Italian 
meringue (No. 140). When frozen fill the pails, lay on the covers and serve. 





a j (3505), COFFEE PUNCH; GRANITE PUNCH WITH COFFEE (Punch au Café; 
a. Punch Granit au Café), 


" For ten persons put one quart of vanilla ice cream into a freezer and mix a 
im with it three Italian meringue egg-whites (made with three beaten egg-whites ht tes, 
and two gills of forty-degree syrup properly liquefied with coffee made with water). To make 
this coffee requires one quart of water to six ounces of coffee; add it to the 
firm so that it does not grain the punch, then put in a little brandy or kirsch. 


: Another way to make granite punch with coffee is to have four quarts of black coffee, one 


_ quart of cream, ten ounces of sugar, four gills of brandy and one quart of whipped cream or 
__ftalian meringue. Freeze as the above. 





cream when nearly 


(3506), DOLGOROUSKI PUNCH (Punch & la Dolgorouski), 


For ten persons allow one quart of peach water ice (No. 

* 3602); beat it up well and incorporate in a third as much 
Italian meringue (No. 140), then mix in slowly a gill and 

a half of kirsch, and two gills of Cliquot champagne; with 
this preparation fill some natural water glasses, having the 
bottom of the glass red and the upper part white, made and 
frozen the same as American sherbet. 


TA 


a Ti 


ll 
q 
LH 















(8507). ELIZABETH PUNOH (Punch Fic. 641. 
Elisabeth), 


Have in a freezer one quart of strawberry (No. 3451) or currant ice 
cream (No. 3451), moisten it with kirsch, brandy and champagne, two gills 
and a half in all; whip in a quarter as much Italian meringue (No. 140) 
and serve this punch in imitation flower pots (Fig. 643), made in three parts, 
the saucer, the pot and atop. Stick two wires into the top to fasten on a 
small bunch of natural flowers or else a single one. 


(3508), FAVORITE PUNCH (Punch 4 la Favorite), 


Arrange in a freezer one quart of strawberry water ice (No. 3607); 
work it well and mix in two gills of rum, one gill of brandy 
and a quarter as much Italian meringue (No. 140). Prepare and pack some 
goblet-shaped molds in salted ice, filling them three-quarters full of water slightly 
whitened with milk; when frozen to one-eighth of an inch in thickness empty out, 
then fill the mold entirely with water tinted red; when frozen to an eighth of an 
inch in thickness empty and range them in small fancy blue boxes; place in a 
freezing box and when ready to serve fill with the strawberry punch. 








Fig. 644. 


(3509), IMPERIAL PUNOH (Punch 4 |’Impériale), 


Put three gills of pineapple juice in a vessel with the juice of two lemons and the peel of one 
orange, also half an ounce of tea infused in a pint of water, three gills of rum, two gills of brandy, 


1002 THE EPICUREAN. 






one gill of kirsch and one gill of maraschino; bring this composition to sixteen degrees, then 
freeze. When frozen to an ice add half as much Italian meringue (No. 
140), fill the inside of the crowns and serve. These crowns are made of s 
gum paste, (No. 3624) having cardboard boxes fitted into the center. a 





(3510) CORDIAL PUNCH—ICED (Punch Glacé aux Liqueurs), 


Pour eight gills of cold twenty-eight degree syrup into a glazed yessel; — 
mix with it a quarter of a vanilla bean, a few bits of lemon peel, a gill of lemon juice, the peel of 
half an orange and the juice of four oranges; let infuse for half an hour then strain; boil till‘it 
attains twenty degrees; rectify if necessary. Freeze the preparation in a freezer packed in 
salted ice after the usual manner, and when smooth and consistent incorporate four Italian 
meringue egg-whites (No. 140); beat again slowly and add two gills of liqueur or cordial, such as — 
rum, kirsch, prunelle, maraschino, kimmel, ete. Let become consistent once more and serve. — 


Fig. 645. 


(3511), MILK PUNOH—ICED (Punch Glacé au Lait), 


This punch is not to be served the same as a liqueur punch, for it must be 
thoroughly frozen. Make a preparation with two quarts of milk and four ounces 
of sugar, strain and freeze. When three-quarters frozen mix in as much whipped 
cream, then add slowly one gill of rum and one gill of brandy. Use this prepara- 
tion to fill some glasses, smooth the tops neatly and grate a little nutmeg over; 
lay them in a lightly imbedded freezing box. This milk punch can be trans- 
ported quite a distance, for the ice will keep a length of time by putting the 
glasses in covered cardboard boxes that close hermetically. 





(3512), MONTMORENOY PUNCH (Punch & la Montmorency). | 


Place two quarts of cherry ice cream (No. 3451) in a freezer; mix in 
a gill of kirsch, half a gill of noyau, half a pint of good Sauterne and a 
quarter as Ayah Italian meringue (No. 140). With this punch fill some cups 
made of natural ice slightly’ reddened. 7 igtau: fawet 





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: Ee te BIDS 


(3618). ‘NENUPHAR PUNCH—LILIES (Pid sieGapnabs 


Place i in a- Sasel the peel of one lemon, the peel of half an orange, half an ounce of coriander 
seeds and a small piece of Ceylon cinnamon, also four drops of extract of i 
citron; set it in a heater or expose to the sun for four hours in a hermeti- 
cally closed earthen vessel; afterward pass it through a filter and add a quart 
of syrup at thirty-two degrees. Mix the whole well and bring the compo- 
sition to sixteen degrees, coloring to a light pink; strain through a very fine 
sieve and freeze. When the ice begins to congeal pour in three gills of 
kirsch and maraschino and half its volume of Italian meringue (No. 140). 
Use this ice for filling some gum paste Nenuphar lilies and serve at once. 


(3514), PARGNY PUNCH (Punch Pargny), 


Soak two gelatine leaves in cold water for half an hour, drain and dis- Ses Bie, 648, 
solve in a quart of hot milk, afterward adding one quart of cream, half a pound of sugar, half a 
pint of good sherry and two. gills of rum... Whip the whole well, together and strain through a 
sieve; put it into a freezer and freeze with half as much salt as is required for ordinary ices. Add 
some Italian meringue (No. 140). This punch should be mellow and not hard; dress in fancy 
glass cups. “ 





EO Oe ge Gee ee ee ee ee ak Se 


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(8515), ROMAN PUNCH (Punch & la Romaine), 


This is made with one quart of lemon water ice (No. 3604) well worked in a freezer packed im 
ice; add to it a little citron peel or extract; the composition should be put in a rather large freezer 
to allow two Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140) to be incorporated; it should first be added 
slowly in small quantities, working it well with the spatula to have it acquire much lightness, then 
add two gills of rum and a quarter of a bottleful of champagne; work it well and detach from the 
sides of the freezer. The rum should be poured in gradually, as well as any kind of spirits ip 


tie 


ICES. 1003: 






different punches; continue until sufficient be added to suit the taste. It is almost impossible to. 
_ designate the exact quantity, that depending entirely on the quality of the ingredients composing 
_ the punch; generally the liquors are only put in just when serving. The punch should be suffi- 
ciently liquid to be drank without using spoons and as soon as served. Serve the punch in upright 
_ giasses provided with handles. This is sufficient for twelve persons. 


< x 


(8516), SIBERIAN PUNCH—LALLA ROOKH (Punch & la Sibérienne—Lalla Rookh), 


Siberian or Lalla Rookh punch is merely vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) worked in a freezer, 
mixing in with it a quarter as much Italian meringue (No. 140) and about two gills of good rum 
_ for each quart of the ice cream; with this fill plain punch glasses with 
handles, or cups. 


_ (3517), SUNFLOWER PUNCH (Punch Tournesol), 


Put two quarts of pineapple water ice (No. 3606) in a freezer; work 
it well, adding half as much Italian meringue (No. 140), two gills of 
kirsch and a quarter of a bottleful of champagne; fill some sunflowers 
(Fig. 649) made of gum paste (No. 3624) or pulled sugar (No. 3618). 
with the mixture and serve without delay. 





Fic. 649. 


(3518), STANLEY PUNCH (Punch 4 la Stanley), 


If for tweive guests have one quart of syrup at thirty-two de- 
grees, the juice of four lemons, a quart of boiling water having a 
pound of freshly roasted coffee infused therein and half a vanilla. 
bean; pour the infusion into the preparation, let steep together for 
two hours, keeping it well closed. Bring the composition to twenty- 
two degrees and strain through a sieve; freeze while incorporating 
two Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140), one gill of kirsch 
anda gill of maraschino. Arrange the punch inside of a goblet 
beside which is a heron made of gum paste (No. 3624) surrounded 
by grasses. 





(3519), TOSCA PUNCH (Punch 4 la Tosca), 


‘Put in a freezer packed in ice one pint of Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446) and 
as much almond ice cream (No. 3461); work well, adding two gills of noyau and an 
eighth of a bottle of champagne, also a third as much Italian meringue (No. 140). 
Color a delicate pink and with the preparation fill some goblets made of coloriess 
natural water frozen to a sufficient thickness, then unmold and set in thick blue 
cardboard boxes the same shape as the glasses. 
The quantity here given is sufficient to serve twelve persons.. 





Fic. 651. 


(3520), TREMIERE PUNCH (Punch & la Tremitre). 
Mix in a freezer one quart of pineapple water ice (No. 3606), 
one pint of orange ice (No. 3605) and one pint of strawberry ice 
eae (No. 3607). When thoroughly mixed incorporate a third of its. 
volume of Italian meringue (No. 140), three gills of kirsch and a quarter of a bottle of champagne; 
with this preparation fill some Tremitre roses ( Fig. 652) made of gum paste (No. 
8624), or else they can be made of pulled sugar, and served at once. 









ee ; Wl 
653), Maal j 


(3521), AMERICAN SHERBET (Sorbet & l’Américaine). 


Prepare some glasses of ice, using molds as shown herewith (Fig. i 
they being made in two pieces which, when unmolded, are joined together. ie NY 
them just when ready to serve with this preparation. Have ready a water ice of 
one quart of water, one pound of sugar, the peel of two oranges and of one eae 
the juice of eight oranges and of six lemons; boil to attain sixteen degrees, pass Fic. 653. 
through a fine sieve, then freeze, incorporating into the ice when about serving a 
quarter of a bottleful of American champagne mixed with twe gills of kirsch and one of prunelle. 








1004 THE EPICUREAN. 





(3522), ANDALUSIAN SHERBET (Sorbet Andalouse), 


Trim some fine orange peel to represent baskets (Fig. 656); scallop their borders with the 
punch shown in Fig. 654; decorate with narrow ribbons and freeze for one hour in a freezing box, 
Squeeze out the juice of four oranges and two lemons; place this in a vessel, add the peel of half an 





Fic. 655. Fia. 656. 


; 


‘orange, two drops of extract of bitter orange and two drops of the extract of lemon; bring the 
composition to twenty-two degrees; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. When frozen mix in 
one gill of Curacoa and as much kirsch; fill the orange peel baskets and serve at once. 


(8523), CALIFORNIAN SHERBET (Sorbet Oalifornienne). 


In a vessel place four gills of syrup at.thirty-five degrees, one ‘gill of brandy, one gill of mar- 
aschino, half a bottleful of California champagne, the peel of 
one and the juice of three oranges, four gills of pineapple juice 
and the juice of twelve lemons. Reduce until it registers 
sixteen degrees with the saccharometer; strain through a fine 
wire sieve and freeze. Imbed in ice some molds as shown in 
Fig. 657; decorate with sprigs of fresh mint and fill with 
plain, colorless water; when the ice is sufficiently frozen unmold 
and keep them on ice until required for serving the 
‘sherbet, filling and serving them without any delay. 





Fic. 657. 





(3624), MEPHISTO SHERBET (Sorbet & la Méphisto). 


Infuse for three hours in one quart of boiling syrup ten ounces of tor- 
refied fresh cocoa and half a stick of. vanilla; add the juiceof four 
lemons and‘one bottleful of good white wine; bring to twenty-two de- 
grees, then freeze; incorporate, just when ready to serve, two gills of 
brandy and a gill of rum; with this preparation fill a dice box and serve at 
once. The box and dice should be of gum paste (No. 3624) or pasteboard. 


ee ase 
oat os 








(3525), PARADISE SHERBET (Sorbet Paradis), 


Prepare an orange water ice (No. 3605), into which incorporate a 
little carmine, kirsch and orange flower water. This is dressed in a nest with a small bird perched 
on its edge. The bird, the interior and the bottom should be 
made of gum paste (No. 3624); imitate the outside of the nest with 
spun sugar and the grass with fillets of angelica. Serve at once. 


Fig. 659. 


(3526), PARFAIT AMOUR SHERBET (Sorbet Parfait Amour). 


Pour into a freezer one pint of raspberry water ice (No. 3607), 
———< one pint of orange water ice (No. 8605) and a pint of cherry water 
Fia. 660. ice (No. 3602); mix thoroughly and add to them half a gill of 
Curacoa, half a gill of maraschino, one gill of kirsch or one gill 
parfait amour cordial and half a pint of champagne just when ready to serve. Dress in tulips 
made of gum paste (No. 8624) or pulled sugar (No. 3618). 





ICES. , 100% 





(3527), PAQUERETTE SHERBET (Sorbet Paquerette), 


A light apricot ice cream (No. 3451), having one quart for ten 
persons; put it into an imbedded freezer and incorporate one gill of 
_ Madeira and one gill of brandy and noyau. With this sherbet fill the 
inside case found in the handled basket, having this trimmed with a 
_ ribbon bow. A small bunch of flowers may be fastened to it also. When 
prepared to serve put the case filled with the sherbet inside the basket. 





(3528), REBECCA SHERBET (Sorbet 
Rébecca), 
Place in a freezer one quart of 
orange water ice (No. 3605) and one of lemon water ice (No. 3604); 


Fig. 661. 





nis 


l Ze —— work both together thoroughly, mixing in a gill of kirsch and 
bik ch. half a bottleful of champagne. This sherbet is served in 
small cases representing baskets, and decorated with a rich ribbon. 


: 
: 


bow, or ina little well made of gum paste (No. 3624). 


te 


(3529), VENETIAN SHERBET (Sorbet & la Vénitienne), 


- Place in a vessel one pound of grated pineapple with 
a quart of twenty-degree boiling hot syrup, also half a 
yanilla stick. Two hours later strain forcibly through a sieve 
and add one gill of kirsch, one gill of brandy and a quarter 
of a bottleful of champagne. Serve in small gondolas (Fig. 668), made of gum paste (No. 3624). 





Fig. 663. 


(3530), YOUNG AMERICA SHERBET (Sorbet Jeune Amérique), 


Imitate a boat in gum paste (No. 3624), standing it on a thin board; fasten an American flag 
at the stern and fill the empty boat with the following 
sherbet: Place in a vessel one quart of thirty-two degree. 
syrup, one quart of syrup of pears and currants and 
one gill of lemon juice, the juice of four oranges, half 
an orange peel and a little vanilla. Infuse for one hour, 
then bring it to thirty-two degrees; pass through a fine 
sieve and freeze. Just when prepared to serve incor- 
porate one gill of kirsch, one gill of rum and a quarter ofa bottle of champagne. 





* (3531), SABAYON A LA CANETTI (abayon & la Canetti) 


Break twelve raw egg-yolks in a deep saucepan with five ounces of sugar; whip the yolks and 
sugar together with a wooden beater. or small wire whisk, rotating either one or the other 
between both ‘hands; add slowly four gills of good white wine, then a stick of vanilla, the 
peel of half a lemon and alittle cinnamon. Place the saucepan either on a very slow fire or in 
a bain-marie until the preparation becomes quite frothy and firm; remove it from the fire, la y it 
on ice and continue the beating process. When very cold suppress the peel and vanilla and stir in 
one quart of whipped cream (No. 50) and half a gill of kirsch. Serve this preparation 1n high 
glasses, paper cases, or else silver souffle casseroles. 


(3532), SABAYON A LA DENARI Gabayon & la Denari). 


Prepare a sabayon with Lunel wine, putting twelve egg-yolks in a deep saucepan with Bye 
ounces of sugar; beat well with the whip or whisk and slowly add four gills of Lunel wine and - 
stick of vanilla. Beat the preparation in a bain-marie or else over a slow fire until thoroughly 
frothy and firm, then remove from the fire and lay it on ice, continuing to 3 beat anti quite Baer 
mix in the same volume of whipped cream (No. 50) and with. this preparation fill up some peice 
in alternate layers of the sabayon and lady fingers soaked in maraschino, adding a few rapborr ss 
placed here and there. Cover the top with whipped cream and freeze in a freezing box, serving 
when well frozen. 


1006 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3533), ALCAZAR SOUFFLES—ICED Soufflés Glacés 4 I’ Alcazar), 


Fill some paper cases with the following: Pour some vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) into a metal 
vessel; lay it on salted ice, stirring well with a spoon, mixing in as much whipped cream, finishing 
with macaroons and broken chestnuts infused in maraschino; with this 
preparation imitate the shape of some soufflés just taken from the oven, 
Have some pulverized macaroons sifted through a fine sieve and bestrew 
the souffiés with this powder; cut a gash on the side, then cover with 
fine powdered sugar. Color quickly in a brisk oven and then put into 
the freezing box; pack it on ice to freeze for one hour; serve on folded 
napkins. 














Fic. 685. (3534), FAVART SOUFFLES (Soufflés Glacés & la Favart). 


Have ready a burnt almond ice cream preparation (No. 3455); when frozen mix into it as 
much whipped cream and with this partly fill some crimped paper cases; on top lay slices of hazel- 
nut biscuit (No. 8241) soaked in maraschino, and strawberries in their juice macerated in kirsch; 
cover and shape to resemble baked soufflés; besprinkle with powdered macaroons and icing sugar; 
color briskly in a quick oven, then stand them on the shelves of a tin freezing box; freeze for one 
hour and serve. 


(3535). PALMYRA SOUFFLE Goufflé Glacé Palmyyre). 


Cook in a slack oven a few good, whole, unpeeled russet apples placed in an earthen dish; 
when done, remove all the pulp and rub it through a sieve. Put four gills of this into a vessel 
with half a pound of fine sugar flavored with vanilla, and beat on ice to give it body, then mix ina 
pint of whipped cream flavored with maraschino. Dress this preparation in separate layers in @ 
sonfflé dish (Fig. 182), alternating each one with a layer of almond biscuit soaked in maraschino and 
well-drained brandied figs; shape it like a dome, then freeze it for forty minutes in salted ice in a 
freezing box. After taking it out decorate the dome with sweetened and vanilla-flavored whipped 
cream, also candied fruits; return it to the freezing box and serve half an hour later. 


(3536). SPONGADE A LA MEDICIS (Spongade a la Médicis), 


Cut up finely the peel of a citron and an orange; have also some pistachios and cherries divided 
in four, and pour kirsch over. Take four 
gills of cold syrup at thirty-five degrees, the 
juice of five oranges, the peel of two, the 
same of one lemon, one gill of vanilla syrup 
and two gills of egg-whites. Infuse together 
for half an hour, and bring the preparation 
to twenty-two degrees; pass it through a fine 
sieve. Freeze the composition by working it 
with a spatula to incorporate as much air as 
possible so as to obtain a very light ice, and 
then mix in the above fruits. Coat a two- 
quart spongade mold with raspberry ice cream 
(No. 3451) or water ice; fill with the prepara- 
tion, press down the cover and freeze for one 
hour; unmold, dress on a folded napkin and 
surround the spongade with small cakes. 





(3537). OREAM SPONGADE A LA PAREPA (Spongade Créme & la Parépa). 


Cream spongades are made by putting into a vessel four gills of fresh cream and almond milk 
made with five ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds; also eight egg-whites, mixing in 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar; beat well together, strain and freeze in medium-sized freezers; 
one to congeal the mixture and the other to work it. When the composition is in the first freezer, 
turn the latter quickly with the right hand, and as soon as the preparation adheres to the sides 
remove it to the second or smaller one, then work to give it body, and to incorporate plenty of air 
into the ice. Then add a salpicon of fruits cut in quarter-inch squares. Mold the ice in a spongade- 
shaped mold (Fig. 666), coated inside with pistachio cream. 






a 
: 
’ f 





ICES. 100% 









Be | (3538), ALASKA, FLORIDA (Alaska, Florida), 


____ Prepare a very fine vanilla-flavored Savoy biscuit paste (No. 3231). Butter some plain molds two 
and three-quarters inches in diameter by one and a half inches in depth; dip them in fecula or flour, 
and fill two-thirds full with the paste. Cook, turn 
‘them out and make an incision all around the bottom; 
hollow out the cakes, and mask the empty space with 
apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Have some ice cream 
‘molds shaped as shown in Fig. 667, fill them half with 


ind 


uncooked banana ice cream (No. 3541), and half with 
uncooked vanilla ice cream (No. 3466); freeze, un- 
‘mold and lay them in the hollow of the prepared 
a biscuits; keep in a freezing box orcave. Prepare also 
a meringue with twelve egg-whites and one pound of 
» sugar. A few moments before serving place each Fic. 667. 
4 biscuit with its ice on a small lace paper, and cover 

_ one after the other with the meringue pushed through a pocket furnished with a channeled 




































































Ih 





(3539), ALEXANDRIA (Alexandria), 


Haye in atin basin ten raw egg-yolks and twelve ounces of sugar; beat both well together, 
diluting with a quart of boiling milk, adding the peel of one 
orange. Set this on a slow fire, stir and cook until the prep- 
aration covers the spatula, then leave to cool off. Add the 
pulp of four bananas, one pint of cream and two gills of vanilla 
syrup at thirty-two degrees; strain through a sieve, freeze and 
; : mix into this ice one gill of Curagoa and half as much whipped ~ 

aot —— cream. With this frozen preparation fill some crescent-shaped 

: slag molds, pack in ice and freeze for half an hour. Unmold and 
‘decorate each side with lozenges of angelica and candied cherries, and stand them on whipped 
cream haying had crushed macaroons soaked in maraschino mingled in. 





pen (3540), ASPARAGUS (Asperges), 

Cook one pound of asparagus tops in plenty of unsalted water; drain and lay them ina tinned, 

basin with ten ege-yolks and twelve ounces of sugar; mix thoroughly, incorporating a pint of 

boiling milk; cook this preparation without allowing to boil, 

and put aside to cool, then add a pint of cream; color a third 

: part to a pale green; ‘strain - through a sieve, and freeze the 

f parts separately. With this ice fill some asparagus-shaped 

molds, the stalks or third part to be of the green ice, and the 
‘remainder white. Freeze the molds for half an hour, un- aes 

mold, tie in bunches of three with a pink ribbon, and dress 


on napkins. Serve separately a sauce made of vanilla ice ie 
Be (No 3458) Sipe cream (No. 50) and maraschino. Asparagus can also be imitated by 
° ’ 


filling the molds with pistachio (No. 3454) and vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), and serving the same * 
as the above. 





(3541), BANANAS IN SURPRISE (Bananes en Surprise), 

The proportions for eight large bananas is one quart of cream, the pulp of aa aeapia ane 
= one pound of sugar; press through a fine sieve and freeze. 
= == ‘Pare and cleanse the peels nicely; freeze them in a freezer 

: for one hour and fill with the above cream, putting 
inside of them a salpicon of candied fruits macerated in 
the bananas into a freezing box 
to harden for several hours. 






Fic. 671. rio maraschino. Put 
well packed in ice and leave 


__ Dress on a folded napkin and serve. 





1008 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3542), BLIDAH (Blidah), 






Fill a lozenge-shaped mold with cherry ice cream (No. 3451) or currant water ice (No. 3602); 4 
unmold and put it in the bottom of a Montelimar mold packed in ice; finish filling the lozenged 
part of the mold with mandarin water ice and the rest with vanilla ice — 
cream (No. 3458), into which mix the pulp of two oranges macerated for an 
hour in maraschino. Fill the molds well, force on the cover, pack and 
freeze for one hour; unmold and cutting in half-inch slices dress each 
slice on lace paper and serve. The length of the mold is eight inches long : 
inside, the height is three and three-quarters inches and the width at its — 
base is three and a quarter inches. The lozenge is the same lenges as the 
larger mold and its height is two inches. : 





(8543), CARAMEL BOUCHEES (Bouchées au Caramel), 


Lay on a sheet of paper some half-spherical rounds of lady fae paste (No. 3877), each two. 4 
and a half inches in diameter; when cooked empty out the centers. Put 
a quarter of a pound of strawberry juice in a vessel with a pint of 
thirty-two degree syrup and a little vanilla; strain through a fine 
sieve, freeze and then mix in two Italian meringue egg-whites (No. 140) 
and half a pound of preserved pineapple cut in three-sixteenths inch 
squares and macerated in kirsch. With this ice fill the interior of the Fic. 673. 
biscuits, range one on top of the other, fastening them well together; 
lay them in a freezing box for one hour to congeal the ice and then dip them in sugar cooked to 
‘crack’? (No. 171). Dress these balls on rounds of waffles three inches in diameter; serve them 
plain or scatter over finely shredded green pistachios. 





(3544), CAULIFLOWER WITH MARCHIONESS RICE (Choux-fleurs au Riz Marquise), f 


Blanch half a pound of rice; cook itin milk for half an hour, pass through a fine sieve and mix 
with it double as much hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464). Fill a cauliflower-form mold with three 
pints of this preparation, keeping a cavity in the center, and fill this with the well-cooked boiled 
rice marinated in vanilla syrup and having added to it a salpicon of fresh fruits, macaroons and 
lady fingers steeped in maraschino. Close the mold after it is quite full, pack in salted ice and 
freeze for one hour, then unmold on a folded napkin and serve with a separate sauce-boatful of 
sauce prepared with vanilla ice (No. 3458) and maraschino mixed to- 
gether, to which add an equal volume of ee cream (No. 50). 


(3545), CEYLON WITH COFFEE (Geylan au Café) 


Put ten egg-yolks in a tinned basin; whip in three gills of very 
strong coffee and bring the preparation to twenty-two, degrees with a 
syrup gauge; set the basin on a slow fire, stir and remove when it covers 
the spoon, then strain through a fine sieve; return it to the cleaned 
basin, beat again on ice till it attains a light consistency. Coat a mold 
(Fig. 674) with uncooked cinnamon ice cream (No. 3450), fill the center 
Fic. 674. with the coffee composition, close forcibly, pack and freeze for one 


hour. Unmold and dress on a folded napkin and surround with 
vanilla lady bouchées (No. 3376). 





(3546), CHARLOTTE CORDAY (Charlotte Corday), 


Obtain some round crimped paper cases; cover the bottoms and sides 
with uncooked Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446) and fill the centers with 
biscuit glacé preparation with vanilla (No. 3438), adding a little maraschino eee 
to it; also put in some candied orange peel cut in exceedingly thin fillets; ce 
powder the tops with pulverized macaroons and cover this with Andalusian ice cream and candied 
fruits. Lay them in a freezing box for an hour to finish freezing. 








ICES. 1009 


(3547), CORN (Mais). 


Fill tin molds, representing a medium-sized ear of corn, partly with hazel-nut ice cream (No. 
3464) and partly with lemon water ice (No. 3604); in the center of 
each ear of corn lay pieces of lady fingers soaked in prunelle. Close 
the molds forcibly, pack and freeze; three-quarters of an hour 
Fig. 676. after, unmold, dress on a napkin and serve with a bowlful of 


vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and whipped cream (No. 50), ‘half 
of each, well beaten together, adding a little kirsch. 





aadaa Asses araane 
POreriee er et 
Tana aang aaa) 










aa 
aaa 
13 1a 


(3548), COUNTESS LEDA ICE CREAM (Glace & la Oomtesse Léda). 


Coat with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) the inside of a mold 
the shape of the annexed cut (Fig. 677), able to contain one quart 
and a half to two quarts of preparation, having previously packed 
it well in salted ice; fill the center with uncooked vanilla ice cream 
(No. 3466), into which have mixed fresh peaches cut in four and in- 
fused in maraschino, and freeze for one hour and a half. At the 
same time mold a swan with almond ice cream (No. 3461). At 
the moment of serving unmold the large form on a napkin. Sur- © 
round the base with lady bouchées frosted with vanilla and straw- 
berry frosting (No. 3376), and on the top dress the swan. Serve 
separately a kirsch sauce, made with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and whipped cream (No. 50), 
beaten together with a little kirsch. 


































































































(3549), DICE, DOMINOES AND CARDS (Dés, Dominos et Cartes), 


Dice.—Fill some cube-shaped tin molds two inches in diameter with hazel-nut ice cream (No. 
3464); in the center lay some macaroons soaked in maraschino; pack in salted ice, freeze and 
unmold half an hour later. Imitate the black dots of the dice with small chocolate pastilles three- 
sixteenths of an inch in diameter, pressing them down into the ice; put them in a freezing box to 











NG) 


i 
‘hy 
Mk 
lu ) 








Fig. 678. Fig: 681. 


freeze until the ice has become firm, then stand on a lace paper and cover each dice with a box of 
wafers cut square, being two and three-quarters inches on each side, held together with sugar cooked 
to ‘‘crack” (No. 171); fasten on top a quarter-inch ball of almond paste (No. 125) of four distinct 
colors, iced with caramel, or else a walnut emptied and filled with small candies; fasten together to 
enclose the candies. 


Dominoes.—Have hinged tin molds two and three-eighths inches long by one and three-eighths 
wide and half an inch high, opening through their thickness; fill them half full with virgin mar- 
aschino cream and the other half with chocolate (No. 3449); pack in ice for half an hour, unmold, 
and in the center of the white side, and across from side to side, lay a strip of angelica, and on 
both sides of this range small dots of chocolate to imitate dominoes; form a small easel of wafers 
with a ledge at the base; on each side place two dominoes, making four for each guest, and over the 
whole stand a cover as explained for the dice. 


Cards.—Procure square boxes made of pasteboard, each panel having a playing card on it. 
These boxes should have double boxes filling in the interior; fill this inside box with ice cream, 
then serve. 


1010 THE EPICUREAN. 





(3550), EGGS A LA TREMONTAINE, RED WINE SAUOE (Gufs & la Tremontaine, Sauce au Vin 4 
Rouge), 


Mix some fruits previously cut dice shaped with whipped cream (No. 50); fill spherical molds 
of one and one-eighth inches in diameter, freeze and unmold. Coat some 
hinged tinned molds, the shape of an egg, containing a gill each, with — 
pistachio ice cream (No. 3454); in the center place the spherically molded 
whipped cream, close and clean off the surplus, freeze, unmold and serve 
ona folded napkin. Serve separately a red wine sauce prepared as follows: 
| Infuse some cinnamon and a slice of lemon in good red wine; sweeten ~ 
Fie. 682. and stand the saucepan on the fire. As soon as the wine begins 
| to whiten thicken with fecula diluted in cold water, strain, leave stand 
till very cold, then serve. 





(8551), ESMERALDA ICE CREAM (Glace a YEsméralda), 


Mix one pint of strawberry pulp, three pints of cream, three quarters of a one pounce of sugar; 
strain through a fine sieve, freeze and stir in as much whipped cream (No. 
50). Pound four ounces of burnt almonds with a quarter of a vanilla 
bean and half a gill of cream; put into a basin six egg-yolks and five 
ounces of sugar; dilute with half a pint of boiling milk and cook on a 
slow fire without boiling; cool and add a pint of cream and a little 
orange flower water; freeze. Stir in an ounce and a half of the finely 
pounded burnt almonds and an ounce and a half of shredded pis- 
tachios. Fill a pyramid-shaped mold made in two separate longi- 
tudinal divisions, half with the strawberry and the other half with 
the burnt almond preparation; freeze for half an hour, unmold and 
on top place an apricot steeped in prunelle cherries. 


ET id tes 





(3552), FRASCATI ICE CREAM (Glace Frascati), 


= 

Fill a round shallow tin mold, having flaring sides with a depression ; 

‘in the center, the dimensions being three inches in diameter and one inch deep, with light vanilla . 
ice cream preparation (No. 3458); pack in ice and freeze for half an hour, unmold and put in the ; 
center some fiori di latte with kirsch (No. 3469); lay them in the freezing box to freeze, then on top ‘ 
of each set a macaroon soaked in maraschino; push through a pocket some very firm iced biscuit 
preparation, turning it around to form into a pyramid; decorate the : 

top with candied fruits; freeze for three-quarters of an hour before 

serving. | : r 

: : | 

(3553), FROMAGE GLACE (Fromage Glacé), 

Have an iced mold (see Fig. 684); divide it in three parts with . 

partitions made of tin and pack it well in salted ice. Put into a vessel 

three-quarters of a pound of apricot pulp, a gill and a half of raspberry : 











juice, the juice of two oranges, three-quarters of a pound of powdered 
sugar and one pint of cream; strain this through a sieve and freeze, 
adding to it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50). Arrange this 
preparation in one of the compartments, in the other strawberry water ice 
(No. 3607), and in the third hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464), adding apricots 
macerated in maraschino. Take the partitions out, fill up, coat well, pack — 
the mold in salted ice, freeze for one hour, then unmold on a napkin. 
This preparation is rarely used nowadays. 









































(3554), HARLEQUIN ICE CREAM (Glace Arlequin), 


This ice is molded in four triangular-shaped molds; fill one with coffee ice cream (No. 3463), 
another with vanilla (No, 3458), another with pistachio (No. 3454) and the fourth with strawberry 
ice (No. 3607). Imbed and freeze for half an hour, then unmold. Put them in a brick-shaped 
mold three inches square. The triangles should be two inches on one side by an inch and a half in 





¥ 


FE TIE ee ee he eT ee 


4 
3 





= _ Taains and freeze for half an hour. Now mold some chocolate ice cream 

G ‘in spherical molds an inch and a quarter in diameter, freeze for half an 

hour and unmold the whole. Cut the brick up in slices with a special 
_ knife (Fig. 700) dipped in hot water, 


into a freezing box for half an hour be- 





ICES. 1011 


é: 


height. ‘The mold should be eight inches long. Place the triangles in the mold, as shown in Fig, 
_ 686, having the vanilla at the bottom, one side the strawberry, the other the pistachio and keeping 


the coffee on the top. Press the cover down well so no empty space re- 














and place each one on a four-inch square 
‘sheet of lace paper; fasten the chocolate 
drops exactly on the center and put them 


















































fore serving. All creams that are to be Fie. 685. Fig. 686. 


‘eut should be laid on a small board so as to facilitate cutting and removing them, and to keep 
them in good shape. 


(3555), JARDINIERE OUTLETS (Cételettes Jardiniare), 


Blanch half a pound of rice, refresh and return it to the saucepan with a pint and a half of 
boiling cream, half a pound of sugar and the peel of half a lemon. Boil up once, push it into the 
oven for-an hour, then remove and whip it well, adding a quart of cream; freeze and as the prepa- 


ration takes body mix into it as much sweetened whipped cream as there isice. Mold in cutlet- 





Fic. 687. 


Cg 


shaped molds and when thoroughly frozen turn them out and dip each one in macaroon dust sifted 
through a fine sieve. - Dress on a salpicon of fruit macerated in maraschino and thickened with 
apricot marmalade (No. 3675) prepared with maraschino; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and 
serve at once. 


Pe 
“at 


(3556), LA GRANDINA (La Grandina), 


Coat some oval-shaped plaited paper cases with a part of the following ice: Whip together one 
pint of raspberries, the peel of one orange and the juice of three, 
also the juice of six lemons; tint this a beautiful pale red and boil, 
adding enough sugar to make a twenty-two degree syrup; strain 
through a fine sieve and freeze. When consistent and smooth add 
to it half as much whipped cream and two ounces of finely cut-up 
citron peel; partly fill the inside of the cases with iced chocolate biscuit 
preparation flavored with vanilla, into which mix pounded macaroons 
and afew roasted and pulverized hazel-nuts; freeze for one hour, 
putting the cases in a freezing box and finish filling with the 
raspberry ice, having it slightly bomb-shaped on top; decorate with whole cherries placed 
directly in the center; dredge the top with finely shredded pistachios; return to 
the freezing box and freeze for one hour. 





(3557), LEMONS IN SURPRISE (Citrons en Surprise), 


Pour a quart of fresh cream into a vessel, pound two ounces of sweet almonds 
‘and a few bitter almonds with twelve ounces of sugar; sift through a sieve and put 
it with the cream, adding two gills of maraschino and four ounces of candied 
fruits cut in quarter-inch squares; tint it to a soft pink, then freeze. With this 
cream fill some large lemons that have been emptied. Tie around with ribbons the same as 


shown in Fig.. 689. 





Fig. 689. 


1012 , THE EPICUREAN 





(8558), LEONA ICE CREAM (Glace lLéona), 


First prepare some natural ice glasses the shape of Fig. 690. (For preparing these glasses 
see No, 3484.) When they are all ready put them into a freezing box until serving 
time. Prepare some whipped cream (No. 50) flavored with maraschino and drain it 
onasieve. Make an ice with half a pound of almonds, ground a few at a time, 
with half a pound of sugar and a pint of water, adding two gelatine leaves dissolved. 
in two gills of water, and a gill of vanilla syrup; strain this through a fine tammy 
and freeze in slightly salted ice; work well with the spatula, incorporating as much 
whipped cream and a salpicon of assorted fruits cut in quarter-inch squares, 
macerated in kirsch and drained. With this ice fill some spiral-shaped molds and 
pack in ice. Half an hour later, just when prepared to serve, fill the glasses with 
the whipped cream. Unmold the ices, lay them over the cream and on top of each 
place a brandied cherry or one made of almond paste (No. 125); serve at once. 


(3559), MACEDOINE CROQUETTES (Croquettes Macédoine) 


Mold in tins the size and shape of a medium croquette some burnt almond 

cream (No. 3455), ranging exactly in the center some biscuits soaked in maraschino; 

Fie. 690. freeze for half an hour, then unmold and roll in pulverized macaroons sifted through 

asieve. Have in an ice cream freezer all sorts of fresh or preserved fruits cut in 

quarter-inch squares; to them add lemon juice, maraschino and champagne; freeze with very little 

ice and when extremely cold drain properly and mix in whipped cream (No. 
50); dress on saucers, laying the croquettes over, one or two on each saucer. 





(3560). MACEDOINE OF FRUITS AND ST, JACQUES CUPS (Macédoine de 
Fruits et Coupes St. Jacques). 


Macédoine.—Lay in a vessel one peeled banana cut in half-inch squares, 
one well-peeled orange having the meats lying between the intersections re- 
moved with a knife and all the seeds suppressed, a slice of pineapple half an 
inch thick cut in dice, four ounces of grapes, two ounces of strawberries or 
raspberries, four ounces of cherries, pears or peaches, half a gill of kirsch or 
maraschino and a little powdered sugar; mingle all together and keep it cold 
in a freezer with ice packed around; serve in a compote dish. 





Fic. 691. 


St. Jacques Cup.—With this macédoine fill some wide champagne 
cups; cover the macédoine with kirsch or maraschino sherbert and serve (see Fig. 691). 


(8561 MADELEINE ICE CREAM (Glace Madeleine), 


Decorate a Madeleine mold (Fig. 692) with candied fruits; coat the inside with vanilla ice 
cream (No. 3458) and fill with hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464) into which 
have mingled a salpicon of fruits and whipped cream. In the very center 
lay a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675); pack this mold in ice and freeze 
for two hours; unmold on a napkin and surround with fancy cakes; serve 
at the same time a sauce made of whipped cream, vanilla ice cream and 
Curagoa. 


(3562), MADRILIAN (Madriléne), 


Place in a vessel twelve raw egg-yolks and half a pound of sugar, 
diluting slowly with a pint of boiling milk that has just had a quarter 
of a vanilla stick infused therein for fifteen minutes; strain through a 
fine sieve. Butter some timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 137) and fill them with 
the preparation; stand them in a sautoir with boiling water to reach to half their height and poach; 
when they are firm to the touch leave stand till cold, then unmold. Pound a quarter of a pound 
of sweet almonds and a few bitter ones, all freshly peeled; moisten slowly with a quart of milk and 
strain forcibly through a napkin; add ten ounces of sugar and a gill of kirsch, also a little vanilla 
syrup (No. 3165); strain, freeze, and when the ice has congealed mix in one Italian meringue 
egg-white (No. 140). Mold in cylindrical molds two and a half inches in diameter by two inches 








‘until the preparation will cover the spatula; strain through a fine 


a hued Oh Ree 1013 


in height, placing the small timbale directly in the center; freeze for half an hour, then unmold 


and lay on lace paper; on top have a handsome brandied plum, and around this and the base set 
an even row of cherries cut in two. 


(3563), MARVELOUS (Merveilleuse), 


Break six egg-yolks in a tinned basin with twelve ounces of sugar, aquart of boiling milk, and 
half a pound of freshly roasted, coarsely ground coffee; set the basin on \ 
a moderate fire and stir continuously, without permitting it to boil, 






sieve, leave till cold and freeze, adding the same quantity of sweet- 
ened whipped cream, half a pound of chopped burnt almonds, and as 
much candied chestnuts broken in small pieces. Put one pint of 
orange water ice (No. 3605) in a freezer with the same amount of 
burnt hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464) and as much whipped cream. cd 
With this preparation coat some small paper cases, fill the inside with the first preparation 


‘and surround with orange flowers. 


(3564), MIGNON ICE CREAM (Glace a la Mignonne), 


Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in water with the juice of a lemon; put it into a vessel and 
pour over some vanilla syrup (No. 3165) at thirty-two degrees. 
Place in a freezer one pint of No. 1 vanilla ice cream (No. 
3458), and the well-drained rice. With this cream fill some 
shell-shaped tin molds; freeze and unmold after one hour, lay 
in the center some fresh fruits and soaked macaroons, and 
cover the whole with a layer of very smooth whipped cream; 
es . decorate the top with whipped cream pushed through a cornet; 
freeze and serve with a sauce made of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and kirsch. 











(3565), MOKABELLE (Mokabelle). 


Put into a coffee filter a quarter of a pound of ground coffee and half a vanilla stick; moisten 
with a pint of water to obtain a very highly coneéntrated extract of coffee, then add to it sufficient 
syrup to bring the composition to twenty-two degrees, strain through a tammy, freeze and when 
well congealed pour in as much whipped cream (No. 50). With this ice fill some cups, either of 
sugar, china or fancy pasteboard ones; return to the freezing box and freeze once more. If 
desired the tops can be covered with whipped cream flavored with extract of coffee and kirsch 


mixed together. 


(3566). MONTELIMAR WITH HAZEL-NUT CREAM (Montélimar a la Créme aux Noisettes). 


Hazel-nut Cream.—Roast a quarter of a pound of hazel-nuts; carefully remove their outer 
skins and pound with two gills of cream. Put in a tinned basin twelve egg- whites and ten ounces 
of sugar; stir to mix thoroughly, then moisten with a pint of boiling milk; set the 
basin on a slow fire, stir continuously, then remove from the fire when the prep- 
aration covers the spatula, add the nuts and leave stand till cool. Pour in a 
pint of rich sweet cream; strain through a sieve and freeze. 


Montélimar.—Pound in a mortar three ounces of peeled sweet almonds with 
a gill of kirsch; cook ten ounces of sugar to three hundred and two degrees Fahr- 
enheit or ‘‘ small crack;” mix it slowly in a mortar with the almonds, leave till 
cold, then divide it into three parts; one of these color red with vegetal carmine 
flavored with Curagoa, the other color green with spinach green or vegetal green 
flavored with orange flower water, and keep the third part white; ie. evar Fic. 695. 
into three-eighths of an inch thick strings. Cut some lady fingers (No. Ba ) sae ate 
the same size, and baste over with maraschino; pack a Montélimar mold (I ee y A at? ef 
With a thin layer of the nut ice cream (No. 3461), fill it perfectly full, ears ing poe Pe 
colors of almond paste and the biscuits, and close it forcibly. Two hours after unmold an 


in slices to serve. 

















1014 - THE EPICUREAN. 





(3567). MUFFS A LA DEJAZET, VENUS OREAM (Manchons & la Déjazet, Oreme Vénus), 


Prepare the muffs according to the following description: Sift through a sieve one-quarter of a 
pound of sugar, place it in a vessel with four whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of flour and a little 
powdered vanilla; spread this on a buttered and floured baking sheet to the thickness of about one- — 
sixteenth of an inch, and bake in a brisk oven; divide this cake into 
bands each six and a quarter inches long by two and a half wide, roll 
them on a piece of rounded wood two inches in diameter, cover them 
with a light layer of meringue (No. 140), and over this scatter in 
LZ profusion some pistachios and almonds, chopped in eighth of an inch 
Fic. 696. pieces, mixing them with dried currants. ¢ 





Venus Cream.—Put into a vessel one vanilla bean, as much Ceylon cinnamon broken small, . 
a little mace and the peel of an orange; boil a quart of very fresh cream, pour it over the spices, 
cover and leave infuse for three hours. Break ten egg-yolks in a basin, work well with half a ; 
pound of sugar and the boiled cream, coloring it toa soft pink. Cook this preparation, let stand. ’ 
till cold, then strain through a fine sieve; freeze and add to this ice one quart of Whipped cream. q 
Dress each muff on a separate sheet of paper; fill the bottom with a quarter 
of an inch thick layer of pistachio cream (No. 3454), over this the Venus 
cream, and on top another one ‘of .pistachio to: close the orifice. Keep: im , 
the freezing box for half an hour. _ When serv ing fasten i in the center of both } 
ends a stick of angelica. 


(3568). MUSHROOMS (Champignons), 





For these have some molds representing mushrooms of various sizes; fill . 
them with maraschino ice cream (No. 3462), freeze, unmold and dip the ends 
or stalks in grated chocolate to imitate the roots. Dress piled high on a folded napkin. 


(3569), NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM (Glace Napolitaine), 


Pack in a freezer a Neapolitan mold as represented in Fig. 698; it must be made in three 
divisions; fill one of the round parts with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), the other with pistachio ice 
cream (No. 3454), and the flat or center part with strawberry water ice (No. 3607), having the mold: 










































































Fig. 699. 











































































































































































































Fig. 698. 


quite full so that when forcibly closed the surplus cream runs out all around, thus preventing the 
ice from becoming salty; pack it well in ice and let freeze for one hour; unmold on a small board 
and cut it into five-eighths of an inch slices with a special tinned copper or silver-plated knife so as 
not to blacken the ice (Fig. 700); this knife should be dipped into warm water every time a slice is 
cut. Dress these slices on small lace papers. 


ICES. 1015. 



















| = (8570). BASKET FILLED WITH ORANGES (Panier Garni d’Oranges), 


‘ asket i is of wicker furnished with an inside case; one of the handles must be trimmed 
bbon. Fill the inside case with Andalusian i ice cream (No. 
to which incorporate as much whipped cream (No. 50). Pare 
rar ges to the pulp, remove the white skin adhering to each 
n and marinate them in a little maraschino, sugar and 
with these pieces of orange decorate the top of the cream 





(3571), POSILIPO ORANGES (Oranges Posilipo), Fra. 701 


Cut some three-inch in diameter oranges straight through the 
center; empty the insides entirely, scallop the edge of the peel with a 
machine (Fig. 654) and cut some uniform slits half an inch below this: 
edge; run a ribbon through, tying it in a bow on one side. Have a 
spherical mold two and three-quarters inches in diameter and divided 
in three even hinged parts; fill one of these parts with strawberry ice 
cream (No. 3451), the other with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and the 

third with pistachio i ice cream (No. 3454); equalize all these parts so 
_ that when the mold is closed there will be no more than just sufficient 
to fill them. Pack in ice and freeze for one hour; unmold and lay’ 
the pistachio side in the half orange; stick a piece of angelica in the 
top, it being run through.a preserved cherry. 


y SEVILLE ORANGES, AND ORANGE MACEDOINE BASKETS (Oranges a la Séville et 
} Paniers d'Oranges Macédoine), 


repare some Seville oranges or mandarins the same as for orange Russian punch (No. 3613); 
t 1ey have been emptied and are well wiped inwardly, freeze, then fill with vanilla ice cream 
3458) into which has been added some candied orange and citron peel cut in very thin shreds 
macerated in a little maraschino, Curacoa and kirsch. Serve, surrounding each 

green smilax. The baskets are prepared the same as the Andalusian (No. 


(8573), PARISIAN ICE CREAM (Glace a la Parisienne), 


Have some conical molds rounded on one end and pointed on the other (Fig. 
fill them half with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) and half with vanilla ice 
(No. 3458). The idea of using these molds is to avoid the necessity of using a 
to mold the ice. On the round end lay a small macaroon soaked in maraschino; 
the mold and remove any surplus ice issuing from the joints; pack in ice and 
as an hour. Onremoving dress them in specially made glasses as shown in Fig. 703, and 





rhs 


! (8574), PEARS OR APPLES IN SURPRISE (Poires ou Pommes en Surprise). 
perevty out the insides of the fruit, either apples, pears, oranges or others, lay them in a 





Lill . = i cs e 
Fic. 704. Fie. 705. 
freezer imbedded i in ice for one hour and fill with various ices, either of cream or water. Pack inn 


Ee sali ice to freeze for two hours, then dress on a socle or dish with smilax. 


a a 


1016 THE EPICUREAN. 


(8575), POTATOES (Pommes de Terre), 


Procure lead molds resembling medium-sized potatoes; fill them with chestnut ice cream (No, 
3465) and stuff the centers with biscuits soaked in maraschino, also a 
salpicon of fruits. Freeze for half an hour, then unmold. Roll them in 
grated sweet chocolate and imitate the eyes by sticking in sticks of almonds; 
dress on a napkin and serve separately a sauce made of whipped cream 
and a little maraschino. 





Fic. 706, (3576). RIBAMBELLE (Ribambelle), 


Boxes imitating the fancy boxes of the itinerant dealers of Paris. Coat the bottom and sides 
with nougat cream (No. 3452); fill the center with uncooked maraschino cream (No. 3462) into 
which incorporate half as much whipped cream (No. 50) and one ounce of small vanilla chocolate 
pastilles for each quart of preparation. Pack these boxes in a freezing box or cave and serv 
accompanied by small wafer cakes or very thin wafile cornets. . 


(3577). RICE A LA RISTORI (Riz & la Ristori) 


Coat a dome-shaped mold with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), range on the bottom a layer of 
crushed candied chestnuts, over these a bed of chocolate mousse (No. 3473), then another layer of 
chestnuts and apricot marmalade (No. 3675); finish filling with a light burnt almond cream (No. 
3455). Have the mold quite full, forcing the cover on tightly, pack in salted ice and freeze for 
three-quarters of an hour. Unmold on a garnishing of thoroughly boiled rice macerated in an 
eighteen-degree vanilla syrup; serve a sauce-boatful of apricot maraschino sauce at the same time. 


(8578), RICE WITH MARASCHINO (Riz au Marasquin), 


Boil half a pound of rice in milk; when dry and soft sweeten it and two minutes after remove and 
put away to cool. Dilute it with a few spoonfuls of vanilla syrup (No. 3165) and three tablespoonfuls 
of maraschino and keep it on one side. Freeze a dome mold in pounded ice and salt for a quarter 
of an hour before opening it; when cold range the ice inside of it in layers, bestrewing each one with 
candied fruits cut in large dice. After the mold is full first close the opening with a round piece 
of paper larger than itself, then with its own cover, closing the joints with butter so that the salted 
water cannot penetrate inside; cover also with salted ice and one hour later wash the mold quickly 
in warm water, dry and invert the rice on a cold dish. 


(3579), SICILIAN (Sicilienne), 


Whip twelve raw egg-yolks in a tinned copper basin with twelve ounces of sugar and a quart 
of boiling milk; add three ounces of roasted coriander seeds, a piece of cinnamon and half a 
pound of chocolate; cook on a slow fire, allow to cool,then add a pint of cream; pass this through a 
sieve; freeze, and add six ounces of almonds, each one to be cut lengthwise in four, and three ounces 
of candied orange or lemon peel cut up very finely. Have one quart of chocolate ice cream (No. 
3449) into which mix half as much whipped cream (No. 50). Line a square one-quart mold with 
bands of biscuit a quarter of an inch thick. At the bottom place a layer of the chocolate ice 
cream, over this slices of guava jelly and citron marmalade and the chocolate cream, repeating 
the operation until the mold is completely full. Pack in salted ice, freeze for one hour, unmold 
and dress. 


(3580), ALGERIAN TIMBALES (Timbales & l'Algérienne), 


Lay in a vessel twelve ounces of sugar, six ounces of sifted flour and six ounces of finely ground 
almonds and two egg-whites; mix thoroughly, then incorporate ten partly beaten egg-whites; this 


paste should be flowing and smooth; add four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream (No. 50). Spread 


this paste on a waxed baking sheet in a band nineteen inches in length by six and a half inches in 
width; push it into a moderate oven and when partly baked pare the edges off with a knife and 
finish baking; when of a fine golden color remove from the oven and range it against the interior 
sides of a ring six inches in diameter by six inches in height. From the same paste cut out three 
rounds, one eight inches in diameter and two of six and a half inches; of one of these two rounds 
cut out the center so as to form a ring which will serve as a cover for the timbale, the other for the 
bottom, and the seven-inch one is to be cut into six parts; these are intended for lining the dome- 
shaped mold; clip off the surplus wafer and fasten the pieces to the inside with sugar cooked to 









crack” (No. 171); cover over with well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and decorate with 
a green lime (chinois) on the center; around fasten on some halved cherries, dredge the whole with 
shredded or chopped pistachios and surround the base of the timbale with a row of nice red candied 
cherries. 

Salpicon.—Prepare a salpicon of pineapple, cherries and almonds; macerate in a little kirsch 
and maraschino for one hour. ; 

Racahout Cream.—Put six egg-yolks into a basin with two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
racahout and ten ounces of sugar; beat well with a whip, adding one quart of boiling milk; cook 
this cream until it almost boils, without allowing it to do so, then strain, cool and freeze, mixing 
in half as much whipped cream (No. 50). Pack two molds in ice, having covers to fasten on the 
outside; one cylindrical, five and a half inches in diameter and six inches high, and the other 
dome-shaped, four and a half inches in diameter at its base. Pour some maraschino over 
macaroons; place them in layers in the cylindrical mold, then racahout cream to cover, on this the 
fruits and more of the cream and then macaroons (No. 3379), continuing until the mold is entirely 
full, finishing with the cream; fit on the cover, freeze for one hour, then unmold it into the above 
wafer timbale; lay this timbale on a folded napkin, put on to it first the wafer ring and then the 

dome cover and serve. 


(3581), CHATEAUBRIAND TIMBALE (Timbale Chateaubriand), 


Pound fmely half a pound of almonds and mix in four ounces of butter, the chopped peel of a 
lemon, six ounces of sifted flour, salt and three eggs; make a firm, but not too hard paste and leave 
it set for one hour; roll it out to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and from this flat cut six 
pieces each six inches long by three and a half wide; lay them 
very straight on a baking sheet. Cut also two pieces a quarter of 
an inch thick, one having a diameter of seven and a quarter inches 
and the other nine inches; cook all these in a moderate oven and 
cool under weights. When very cold pare them on all sides to 
obtain panels six inches long and three and a quarter wide; bevel 
the edges on the inner long sides; cover them lightly with apricot 
marmalade (No. 3675) and glaze with royal icing (No. 102), white, 
red and chocolate. Decorate with royal icing, then fasten the 
panels together without attaching them to the baking sheet; deco- 
rate the joints of each panel with a small royal ice beading. Prepare 
the bottom piece six cornered, eight inches from end to end, and 
the top seven and a half inches; ice the bottom, one in white and 
the top one pale green; on this one stand a dome made of meringue 
or royal icing, and on this dome a lyre, either of royal icing or 
gum paste (No. 3624); decorate around the bottom with a border of 
pink gum paste. 


Chateaubriand Cream.—Pound four ounces of almonds with 
half an ounce of bitter ones and two gills of cream. Put ten egg-yolks ARTS 
in a basin with twelve ounces of sugar, half a vanilla bean, a pint 
of milk and the pounded almonds; cook the preparation on a slow fire without boiling till it 
covers the spatula, then allow to cool; pour in a pint of fresh cream. Strain this composition 
through a sieve, freeze and add half as much whipped cream and four ounces of shredded pista- 
chios as well as a salpicon of candied fruits, seedless Malaga and Smyrna raisins, having all of 
these macerated for one hour in kirsch. Fill a six-sided mold of the same form and size as the 
Chateaubriand, only half an inch smaller in diameter; pack well in ice and freeze for two hours. 
Unmold the ice on the largest round, place on a dish with the timbale over, then set the small 
round on top; decorate with the cupola or lyre; serve. 





























(3582), STUFFED TOMATOES (Tomates Farcies), 
Mask the sides of a mold imitating a tomato with strawberry water 
ice (No. 3607) and in the center burnt almond ice cream (No. 8455 )and a 
salpicon of fruits and macaroons soaked in maraschino; finish filling, close 
forcibly, imbed in ice and freeze for half an hour; unmold, dress in a 
ith a bowlful of sauce made of vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), 





Fie. 


pyramid on a napkin and serve w 
whipped cream (No. 50) and prunelle, well mixed together. 


1018 THE EPICUREAN. 








(8583), TORONCHINO PROCOPE (Toronchino Procope). 
Put ten raw egg-yolks into a tin basin containing three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and half 
a pound of burnt almonds crushed with about a gill of cream. Set on a slow fire, stir steadily a 
until the preparation covers the spatula, then take from the fire and let stand till cold. Now — 
add a pint of cream and a little orange flower water, strain the whole through a sieve, freeze and 
use the cream to fill some plaited paper cases, scattering shredded pistachios over the tops. a 
(3584), TORTONI CUPS (Coupes Tortoni), :. 

This ice requires the use of lead molds representing plain, shallow, round baskets; line them 
with rather thin strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) and freeze fora 
one hour; unmold and lay over sheets of paper placed on au 
tin; fill quite full and rounded on top with iced biscuit prepara-_ 
Gan (No. 3435) and put them into the freezing box. When the — 4 
iced biscuit is sufficiently congealed decorate each ice cream ii : 
roses of medium size molded in raspberry, orange, lemon and — 
pineapple water ices, one quart being sufficient for twelve flowers; 
fill some of the rose molds with lemon and orange, others with — 
raspberry and pineapple. Pack in ice, freeze and unmold; lay 4 ; 
each one on the above. biscuit preparation, it being sufficiently hard to have -the rose set firmly on 
top of the roundest part; put them in a freezing box (Fig. 622) for half an hour and serve. = 


(8585), TUTTI-FRUTTI BISCUITS (Biscuits Tutti-Frutti). oe 
Prepare a lady finger paste (No. 3377), adding a little butter; spread it in thin eighth of an aq 
inch layers on sheets of paper and bake in a brisk oven; after it has been 
removed punch out round pieces with a pastry cutter two and a quarter 
inches in diameter, also some bands seven and a half inches long by one and 
a half wide. Place one of the rounds at the bottom of a tin ring measuring 
two and three-quarters inches in diameter by an inch and a half in height; 
on top of this round range the band in a circle. Fill the center with two 
kinds of ice, one lemon water ice (No. 3604) and the other nut cream (No. & ; 
3461), both having a salpicon of fruits macerated in kirsch added to them, Fia. 710. 
and freeze for one hour; unmold and range each tutti-frutti biscuit on a Yee 
lace paper of the same size. Cover entirely with a smooth coating of whipped cream and decorate _ 
with lozenges of angelica and halved cherries, placing a whole one in the center; freeze once more 
for half an hour and serve. 











Fia. 709. 





(3586), TUTTLFRUTTI (Tutti-Frutti), 


Have some very cold tutti-frutti molds (Fig. 711). Incorporate a salpicon of 
candied fruits, cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and marinated in kirsch, in — 
vanilla ice. cream (No. 3458). Fill the molds half full with this and the other 
half with orange water ice (No. 38605). Close forcibly, remove the surplus ice 
and freeze for half an hour. Unmold and dress on lace paper, the 
same diameter as the tutti-frutti, and serve. 





(3587). VALENCE CUP WITH PEACHES (Coupe de Valence aux Péches), 


Prepare some Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446); mold it in a cup 





¥Fia: 712, 
mold that has been imbedded in ice; freeze in ice and salt for one hour; ra 


unmold and decorate with peeled peaches cut in four, soaked in champagne, sugar and maraschino, 
adding to them well-pared oranges cut in sections, having withdrawn the seeds. . 


(3588), VERMEIL GLOBULES A LA DAMSEAUX (Globules Vermeilles & la Damseaux), 


To dress these imitated strawberries 
made of ice cream, it requires shells : 
(Fig. 714), made of either nougat (No. 
3621), pulled sugar (No. 38618) or clear 
sugar. The ends of the shells must be — 
decorated with small flowers made of 
cooked sugar or gum paste. Mold half 
of these icesin strawberry ice cream (No. 
3451) and the other half in strawberry water ice (No. 3607); after all are molded pack 





Fia. 718. Fig. 714. 




















Hard “0 be oan a ey : : she Sein F Wy eee / a ; 
mM ee tne Minsk tr | 1019 


or half an hour, then unmold them; fasten an artificial stalk, surmounted with 
a h one. Place them in the shells and serve at once. . ; 


— 


x 


Be: ae (3589), WATERMELON (Pastéque), 


. pound of the red pulp of a watermelon, the juice of four oranges and of three lemons,. 
se and a lemon peel, also some syrup at twenty degrees. Bring the composition to eight- 
ree heat, strain through a sieve and freeze, adding half a gill of brandy and one quart of 
1 cream (No. 50). Coat a watermelon-shaped mold with pistachio cream (No. 3454); on this. 
above preparation, with strawberry water ice (No. 3607) laid in the center; pack and 
two hours; unmold and cut it up in four or else in two; on the red part insert imitation 
on seeds made of chocolate. These halves or quarters can be cut in slices. 


. 





(8590), BACCHUS (Bacchus), 


chus represents wine and is the companion piece to the well, representing water. Molds: 

purchased already made for these ices. Bacchus’ barrel is of chocolate ice cream (No. 

4 Bacchus is of virgin orange cream (No. 3459); the foot on which the barrel rests is of 
{ : 


oe | 


fee 











chio. ice eream (No. 3454). Mold quite: full, close foreibly, having it completely filled, and 
for an hour and a half; unmold on a water socle as represented in Fig. 715, being careful. 
e this piece to correspond with the other as regards its proportions. 





: oD, CANTALOUP IN SURPRISE AND CANTALOUP MOLDED (Cantaloup en Surprise et 
: ai Cantaloup Moulé). | 
and very ripe cantaloup melon, make an opening on 


and on the bias, directing the tip of the knife toward 
k the cover and imbed this rind in 


In Surprise.—Take a handsome, fresh 


5 ; ‘the top two and a half inches below the stalk, 


~ the center; suppress all the ripe pulp from the inside, put bac i eae | 
salted ice. 6 the removed pulp make a melon water ice (No. 3603), color with a little red and 


_ yellow carmine to imitate the orange color of a cantaloup melon; with this fill the rind to ie pice 
“the original melon, return it to the ice and freeze for two hours. When Wee ee a pat oe 
a ; Be : id , . ui ay 
cut in slices; make the seeds of almond paste (No. 3623). A sar of fresh fr 
_ pagne and lemon water ice can also be substituted for the melon ice. 


‘a 
“a 


» Ps 


1020 THE EPICUREAN. 


Molded.—Melons may be molded in lead molds, having the shape of a melon, making the rind 
either of vanilla (No. 3458) or pistachio (No. 3454) and the center of orange water ice (No. 3605) 


y 


/ t ‘i ! 
a 


YH 
Vig 





Fic. 716. 
or pineapple water ice (No. 3606); pack in ice and freeze for two hours. Unmold and dress 
either on a water socle or folded napkin and on topof the melon range an artificial stalk and leaves. 


(8592). DELICIOUS WITH HAZEL-NUTS (Délicieux aux Noisettes), 


Lay half a pound of hazel-nuts taken from their shells on a baking sheet, roast 11 the oven, 
peel to suppress the red skins, then pound with two gills of cream; set this in a basin with twelve 
raw egg-yolks and twelve ounces of sugar; whip all together and dilute with a pint of miik which 
has had a quarter of a vanillastick infused init. Cook the preparation without boiling till it covers 


D 


i\ 





the spatula well, leave stand until cold, then add a pint of fresh cream; freeze. When the cream 
has a proper consistency mix in two quarts of well-drained whipped cream (No. 50). Pack a 
two-quart mold on ice, fill it with the composition and freeze for two hours; unmold on a folded 
napkin, on top set a spun sugar ornament and surround with scooped-out oranges refilled with two 
differently tinted jellies, white and red, laid in streaks, cooled and then cut in six or eight separate 
parts; surround the base with small strawberries having fresh leaves attached. 


(3593), FRUIT BASKET WITH DOVES (Corbeille Jardinigre aux Colombes), 


Make the stand representing a basket in two parts of colored water, with a hole in the center 
of each; when this stand has been frozen place it on the middle of an oval board thirteen inches 
long by nine and a half inches wide, having a half-inch diameter hole bored through the center; 
keep the whole firmly together and very straight with a nut-screw five to six inches long, serewing 





shyt Sry = a SE ter pS 






ICES. 1021 


it in very tight. Have two cylindrical molds with bottoms, fill them with water and freeze: unmold 
and place them on the center line at one-third of the length of the stand; on each of these columns 
set a dove, imitating the eyes with a dry currant, and fasten a cherry-colored ribbon around his 





Fig. 718. 
neck; decorate all around with fruits molded in various ices and dipped in hot water to unmold; 
put them in the freezing box or cave and freeze; afterward color them lightly and stick into them 
stalks with their respective leaves. All these ice cream pieces should be dressed at the last moment 
and then served at a dinner table or sideboard supper. 


(3594), HEN WITH CHICKS; NEST WITH EGGS (Poule Avec Poussins; Nid Garni d’Gufs), 


_ Prepare a sponge cake stand (No. 3260) or one of wood or office paste (No. 148), eleven 
and a quarter inches long by eight and a quarter inches wide; cover it with coffee or chocolate icing. 





Make a nest of spun sugar, on which place here and there small bits of angelica; in the center set 
the stand. Mold the hen in burnt almond ice cream (No. 8455), spotted over with coffee, choc- 





Fie. 720. 
olate, vanilla, etc., to imitate the different shadings of the bird. 


Pack it in ice and freeze for one 


hour; unmold and dress it on the stand, surrounded with small chicks, made also of ice cream, the 


same as the larger one. 


1022 THE maine 












For the nest (Fig. 720), prepare a round nest, the same as Fig. 719, only smaller; fill with small 
eggs made of assorted ice cream. _ 


(3595), PINEAPPLE IN SURPRISE AND PINEAPPLE MOLDED (Ananags en » Supi et Aoaaae 
Moule), 


In Surprise.-—Suppress the stall from a fine pineapple; empty it out entirely and pack icine 
ice for one hour. With the inside of the fruit make a pineapple water ice (No. 3606), mixing into it — 
a salpicon of fresh fruits; fill the pineapple and freeze it once more; dress ona napkin and surround 2, 
with small molded peaches decorated with a stalk and slightly colored over. ‘4 


j 
x4 


Wir 


ta tate 





Fie. 721. 


Molded.—They can also be molded in a pineapple-shaped mold, the top or stalk to be made of 
pistachio cream (No. 3454) and the pineapple in Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446), colored a reddish 
yellow. Cut the best pieces from a small pineapple into quarter-inch squares; steep them in 
kirsch and maraschino for one hour, add pieces of biscuit and macaroons, drain and with this — 
preparation fill the inside of the pineapple. Imbed in ice and freeze for an hour and a half, un- 
mold and dress on a water socle, serving at once. 


(3596) RABBIT IN SURPRISE Gospiit’s en ac 


Rabbit or any other animal in surprise, made of spun sugar and serving for covering ices (Fig. 
722). For the rabbit or hare make the ice in a half melon-shaped mold; the bear and rabbit in an 


3 


TM 





v¥von broESUDoCDmNNAGOoOONONO” 
Fig. 722. 


iced biscuit mold (Fig. 626). These molds can be filled with puddings, parfaits, etc., either with 
flavors or with fruits; pack in ice, freeze for one hour for each quart, unmold and dress; lay 
on top either a rabbit, hare or bear of spun sugar and serve. 


ICES. 1023 







(3597), SWAN WITH REEDS AND RUSHES (te Cygne aux Roseaux), 

___ Have an oval bottom made of office paste (No. 143) or wood, half an inch thick, fifteen inches 
_ long and eleven wide; glaze it with royal icing (No. 101) of a soft green color and place around an 

— inch and a half from the bordera band of pistachio nougat (No, 3622) two and a half inches high 

on top of this a platform of sugar cooked white to ‘‘crack” (No.171), and the same size as the band: 





























garnish around the stand with reeds, rushes, ete., made of pulled sugar. Mold a swan with out- 
‘stretched wings and neck in lemon virgin cream (No. 3459), the under. part of the wings in coffee 
(No. 3460) and the body in. vanilia (No. 3458); pack it in ice and freeze fortwo hours. Unmoldand 
lay this swan in the center of the platform, imitating the eyes with small dry currants. This dish 
ean be garnished all around with flowers made of ice cream placed in small paper cases. 

j 


(3598), THE HELMET (Le Casque). 


The helmet shown in Fig. 724, is made in a two-quart tin mold filled with a pudding. 
When unmolded decorate it with halved pistachios and cover these with a thin layer of straw- 





berry ice cream (No. 3451). The crest of the helmet is of vanilla, the edge resting on the socle 
of chocolate and the whole is dressed on a natural water socle. The feather should be made of 


spun sugar. 


1024 THE EPICUREAN. 





(8599), THE WELL (Le Puits), 

Have a lead mold the shape of a well and fill it with light vanilla ice cream (No. 3458); this 
mold should have an inside one to form the hollow of the well; freeze for an hour, anmold it on a 
water socle dressed on a napkin and fill the inside with half a pound of rice, blanched and cooked 


Pa a hs gts 





Fig. 725. 


in a light twelve-degree vanilla syrup (No. 3165); drain and add a salpicon of apricots cut in smail 
sticks and shredded pistachios; mix the whole into strawberry ice cream (No. 3451), having mixed 
into it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50) flavored witha little maraschino; the ornament 
on top should be made of spun sugar, fastened on to the well just when serving (see Fig. 725). 


(3600), TURBAN WITH PINEAPPLE OR STRAWBERRY OR SULTANA (Turban aux Ananas ou 
Fraises ou Sultane), 


Put one pint of apricot pulp in a vessel with two gills of almond milk (No. 4) and one gill of 














Fig. 726. 


maraschino; add some syrup to bring the preparation to twenty-two degrees, then strain, freeze and 
mix with it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50). Place this preparation in a turban-shaped 
mold, pack in ice to freeze for one hour, then unmold and decorate around the center with some 





- ICES... 1025. 


well-pared, ripe pineapple cut in four, and the hard center core suppressed; then cut up the re-- 


7 


mainder in slices, lay them it in a vessel and bestrew with sugar, pouring over some rum so that. 
they macerate for half an hour. 


Vanilla Strawberry Turban can be made by mixing in the same quantity of whipped cream: 
(No. 50) after it is frozen; unmold and garnish the center with fresh strawberries macerated in 
kirsch, maraschino and a little powdered sugar. The turban can also be served plain or else. 
trimmed with a sultana of spun sugar. 


(3601). WATER ICES—HOW TO PREPARE AND FINISH THEM (Glaces & !’'Bau—Manidre de: 
les Préparer et de les Finir), 
The base of all water ices is the pulp or juice of fruits, with sugar syrup prepared beforehand 


_ at thirty-two degrees, or else substitute a pound and a half of sugar for each quart of water. 
The syrup gauge (Fig. 167) is the only arbiter for ascertaining the proper degree; they can be- 
_ prepared from fourteen to twenty-four degrees. At eighteen degrees a thin ice is obtained called 


granite. Highteen to nineteen degrees is an excellent degree for water ices prepared for the taste- 


of this country, aithough in some climates they are made as high as twenty-four degrees. At this. 


degree very fine and consistent ices are formed, but they are objectionably sweet and therefore not 
generally liked, so that water ices at eighteen to twenty degrees are considered the best — 
eighteen degrees with fruit pulps and twenty degrees for fruit juices, or sometimes twenty-two,. 
according to the acidity of the fruit. The juice of three lemons make about a gill; for this quan- 
tity use two pounds and a quarter of sugar and one pint of water, obtaining a quart of syrup at 


_ thirty-degrees. To freeze the fruit preparation it requires two freezers, one of a high shape and 


the other semi-spherical. Before freezing the mixture in the semi-spherical freezer it must be 

packed in salted ice and the inside wiped out neatly, then pour in about a gill of the preparation 

to try its consistency, working it with a small spatula, and if found to be sufficiently congealed 

pour in about two quarts to freeze, setting the semi-spherical freezer in motion and detaching at 

times with the spatula any particles that may adhere to the sides. As soon as the ice attains a 

proper consistency remove and lay it in a small, long sorbetiére (freezer) also imbedded in salted ice. 

The ice should be worked vigorously with the spatula to have it acquire body, then imbed it once 
more, letting all the superfluous water run out of the hole at the bottom of the pail, adding more. 
salted ice, packing it down with a stick; cover the pail with a lid or a cloth to prevent any air from 

entering and keep it thus until ready for use. 


(3602), FRESH FRUIT WATER ICES (Glaces & l’Eau aux Fruits Frais), 


Por Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines.—Select good fresh plucked fruits, yet not too ripe; split 
open, suppress the stalks, pith and skins; cut up. finely and bestrew with vanilla sugar to hinder 
from blackening, then strain through a fine sieve. Put the pulp in a vessel and mix in a pint of 
thirty-two degree syrup for each quart, the juice of two oranges and four lemons and a bit of 
orange peel. Strain this preparation through a silk sieve and freeze it. As soon as the ice con- 
geals remove with a spoon and place in a small, long freezer packed in ice; work it vigorously for 
ten minutes, incorporating slowly a pint of Italian meringue (No. 140) for each quart of syrup, and 


half a gill of kirsch or noyau; work it again ten minutes to have it smootk. 


For Cherries, Pomegranates, Currants and Barber ries.—A pint of fruit pulp for one quart of 
syrup and one gill ur the juice of three lemons. If with cherries, crack the pips to extract and 
erush the meat and make the syrup of twenty degrees strength. For currants use the juice of two 
lemons; color with vegetal red, strain through a silk sieve and freeze. 


(3603), GUANABANA, MELON, MEDLAR, PEAR OR PLUM WATER ICE (Glace & Eau & la 
Guanabane, au Melon, aux Néfles, Poires ou Prunes), 


Select fruits that are ripe, having them in preference a little too hard than too soft; they 
be fragrant and freshly plucked. Suppress the skins or peels with a knife; press first through a. 
sieve, then through a tammy; put the purée in a vessel, allowing for each quart one pis of hte | 
syrup, the juice of two oranges and four lemons and the peel of half an orange ees a a et ” 
syrup. Stir all the ingredients well together and bring it toa twenty to twenty-two dest ar 8y rup; 
strain through a very fine Venice or silk sieve and pour into a semi-spherical freezer: al ry | is 
congeal without ceasing to detach with a large spatula every particle adhering to the sides of t Le 
freezer. As soon as the ice is all congealed remove it with a spoon and transfer toa small, long: 


must 


1026 THR EPICUREAN. 






freezer imbedded in salted ice to have it acquire plenty of body, and smooth while still stirring; 
lastly incorporate three tablespoonfuls of good rum, kirsch or prunelle, mixed with a little of the — 
syrup and frozen preparation, being careful to incorporate it little by little; work again for a few — 
moments, freeze once more and serve. 


(3604), LEMON WATER ICE AND GRAPE FRUIT ICE (Glace , Eau au Oitron et Glace au a 


Poncires), 


Pour into a vessel some syrup made with two and a quarter pounds of sugar and a pint of a 
water cooked to thirty-two degrees; cool off, then add two gills or the juice of six lemons and the — 
peel of four of the finest among them well washed and wiped; let the preparation attain twenty 
degrees according to the syrup gauge and infuse therein the peels, leaving them for two hours; 
strain through a silk sieve and freeze. : 


" 


Another Way.—Proportions: Four pounds of sugar, three gills of water, the peel of fifteen 
lemons and the juice of twenty-five; cook to twenty degrees of the syrup gauge; infuse the ~ 
peels in this for two hours; strain the whole through a silk sieve and freeze. This quantity will 
produce a little more than six quarts. "i 


Grape Fruit.—Prepare this ice the same as lemon water ice, substituting grape fruit for 
Jemons. — -~ - 


(3605), ORANGE WATER IOE OR WITH GELATINE (Glace a I’Eau a /’Orange et & la Gélatine), 


Take one quart of syrup at thirty-two degrees, five gills of orange juice, the peel of a large 
orange and one gill of lemon juice. Infuse for two hours, bring it to eighteen or twenty degrees 
of the syrup gauge, and color with a little carmine; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. 


Another Way.—Six pounds of sugar, four quarts of water, thirty oranges, using the peel of six- 
teen, and the juice of twelve lemons. Infuse for two hours, bring to twenty degrees, strain through 
a silk sieve and freeze. This will make about eight quarts. 


With Gelatine.—Have one quart of water, one pound of sugar, the peel and juice of two 
oranges, the juice of four lemons, a sheet of gelatine weighing a quarter of an ounce, previously 
dissolved in a little water, then strained through a fine sieve. The ice may be flavored with ex- 
tract of orange and the lemon replaced by citric acid. 


(3606), PINEAPPLE WATER ICE (Glace 4 l’Eau a |’Ananas), 


Pineapple can be prepared in two ways, eithe! grated or pounded in a mortar or infused in a 
Syrup. 

Infused in Syrup.—Boil a quart of thirty-two degree syrup, add to it one pound of peeled 
pineapple cut in thin slices, also the peel of one orange; remove from the fire, cover the saucepan, 
and leave to cool in the syrup, adding one gill or the juice of three lemons; strain forcibly. either 
through a Venice sieve or a silken one; boil the mixture until it reaches twenty degrees of the 
syrup gauge and freeze. 


Another way is to place a pound of sugar in a vessel with two quarts of water and one quart 
of grated or crushed pineapple; let infuse for two hours; add aleaf and a half of isinglass dissolved 
in half a pint of water acidulated with the juice of eight lemons or else melted citric acid; strain 
through a fine sieve and freeze. 


Another Way.—One quart of grated pineapple, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, the 
juice of sixteen lemons or five gills. Finish the same as water ice (No. 3601). 


(3607), STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY WATER ICE (Glace a l’Eau aux Fraises ou aux Fram- 
boises), 


Small ripe wild berries are preferable to cultivated ones for these ices. Put one quart of 
strawberry or raspberry pulp in a basin, and dilute with a pint and a half of cold syrup at thirty 
degrees; add a little vanilla, the peel of an orange, the juice of two oranges and of four lemons; 
strain through a silk sieve. The syrup should be from twenty to twenty-two degrees. 

Another Way.—Take eight pounds of powdered sugar, two quarts of fruit pulp, the juice of 
twenty lemons and six quarts of water; color to a light red with vegetal carmine. Bring it to 
twenty degrees of the syrup gauge, strain through a silk sieve and freeze. 





ICES. | : 102” 


ICED DRINKS, 





(3608), ICED CHOCOLATE (Chocolat Glacé), 


_ Dissolve a pound of sweet chocolate in a quart of water with half a bean of vanilla; when cold 
stir in a quart of cream, then strain through a fine sieve. 


Another way is to take a pound of sweet chocolate, half 2 pint of water and half a vanilla 
bean; when the chocolate is all dissolved and cold mix into it three pints of cream and a: gill of 
thirty-two degree syrup; strain through a sieve and put it into a freezer with lightly salted ice 
_ around, and serve in glasses. 


(3609). ICED OOFFEE (afé Glacé), 


Black Coffee.—Iced coffee, as it is called in New York, is simply black coffee cooled in a china 
freezer, having lightly salted ice placed around. 


Mixed Coffee.—Mixed coffee is prepared the same, only mixing the whole of the following 
ingredients together: One pint of milk, one gill of cream, one quart of black coffee and one gill of 
syrup at thirty-two degrees. Put the mixture into a china or enameled freezer with lightly salted 
ice around, and serve when the coffee is exceedingly cold. 


Brandy Coffee.—One quart of black coffee, six ounces of sugar, one gill of brandy; to be 
mixed and cooled the same as the black coffee. 


Iced Coffee in Sherbet.—Have one quart of black coffee mixed with one quart of cream and 
twelve ounces of sugar; place it in a freezer with salted ice around, detach from the sides as fast 
as the ice adheres, and when sufficiently cold and firm serve in glasses. 


(3610). GRAMOLATES OR GRANITE WITH ORANGE (Gramolates ou Granit & Orange), 


Put in a vessel one quart of fifteen-degree syrup, the juice and peels of three oranges; cover 
over and leave infuse for one hour; add the juice of four lemons and a little orange vegetal car- 
mine; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. Peel three oranges to the pulp, remove the pulp by 
passing the knife near each section and lay the pieces in a bow! with a very little sugar and kirsch; 
steep for half an hour then add it to the ice and serve in glasses. 


(8611), GRANITE IN WATER BOTTLES WITH OURRANTS, CHERRIES, POMEGRANATES, 
ETO. (Granits en Carafes 4 la Groseille, aux Cerises, Grenades, etc). 


Granites are made the same as water ices, flavored with any desired fruits, the sole difference 
being that they must not be worked and must only attain fourteen degrees of the saccharometer; 
when the composition is ready pour it in water bottles having very wide necks; pack these in ice 
with half as much salt as for ordinary ices. Detach from the sides with a small boxwood spatula. 


Serve in the same decanters or else in glasses. 


(3612). GRAPE FRUITS A LA MADISON (Poncires & la Madison), 


The grape fruit is a species of large yellow orange, resembling the Florida orange; it is slightly 
bitter. Select those that are not too large, cut them across in two, empty the insides, keeping it 
all in a vessel, and notch the edges of the peel in points; remove the small rounds from the center 
and then place them to cool in a freezing-box. Prepare a mixture the same as orange punch, 
Russian style (No. 3613), the only difference to observe being that all the fruit juice must be 
used; bring to twelve degrees and let cool to a granite (No. 3611), then serve in the prepared peels. 


Ar. 


i oe 3 4 eae ehh 4 (wa, PO rete ae hi roe era: 
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: cece A he 


<2 ey 


1028 : THE gain 









(3613), ORANGE PUNCH. RUSSIAN STYLE—UN FROZEN COLD DRINK (Punch Orange rn i 
Russe—Boisson Froide non Gelée), : 


Slit open with a tin tube an inch and a half in diameter the top of eight ome on th 
opposite to the stalk, empty them out entirely, wipe neatly and set them in low paper cases to] 
them level. On the round piece removed from the orange fasten two 1 lo 
straws, tying them together with a ribbon passed through two holes. Put 
these oranges for at least two hours beforehand in a box and pack with 1 
and very little salt, not to freeze the rinds. Place in a freezer one 
orange juice obtained from the pulp of the emptied oranges and 

abe through a fine strainer, add to it two gills of water, six ounces of 
Fig. 727. gill of rum, half a gill of kirsch, the peel of two oranges and the j 
four lemons; flavor it properly, either by adding or removing any 
ingredients; strain the whole through a very fine silk sieve and freeze with ice 
little salt. Just when ready to serve fill the oranges and serve them at once. — ‘The straws 
for drinking the contents of the orange. 





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CONFECTIONERY (Confiserie). 





(3614), CENTER PIECES—PYRAMIDS (Piaces Montées), 


Table ornaments called pyramids are used for replacing the cold pieces in the third service for 
French dinners. They are placed on the table at the beginning and at the dessert for a Russian 
‘dinner. ; The principal object is to flatter the eye of the guests by their regularity, their smoothness 
and their finish. To attain this end it is necessary that the subjects be chosen according to the 
circumstances in which the dinner is offered. Special care must be taken that they be faultlessly 
executed. The pieces can be selected from a number of designs, such as: Swiss cottages, temples, 
pavilions, towers, pagodas, mosques, fortresses, hermitages, belvederes, cabins, cascades, houses, 
fountains, ruins, rotundas or tents; then there are lyres, harps, helmets, boats, cornucopias, vases, 
baskets, hampers, beehives, trophies both military and musical, fine arts, agriculture, navigation, 
commerce, science, etc. <A very prolific branch almost entirely overlooked is a figure representing 
some well-known character. Then come animals, trees and flowers, which offer an infinite number 
of beautiful subjects. Few workmen are capable of making these different styles of pieces, 
their talent being limited, for their use is confined to a very small number of houses. There- 
fore it would be most useful if the workman engaged in making these pieces confine himself 
solely to figures, as this art is certain to become fashionable in the near future. Authors of the best 
works on cooking and pastry only casually mention these ornamental pieces. The workman while 
executing them must give his entire attention and talent, for the persons before whom they are 
generally placed are accustomed to works of art. In case he finds it impossible to produce a 
perfect figure, then he had better devote himself to other kinds of work in which perfection need 
not be so scruputously followed; for, after all, these pieces only serve to decorate one dinner, and 
consequently are very rarely preserved. Still, whatever style of work he may see fit to undertake, 
let him endeavor to excel and attain the pinnacle of perfection. A well-executed idea has more 
merit than a well-finished, but badly conceived one. The quantity of figures and subjects to select 
from are numerous. First, we have mythology; what a fertile theme—here a Cupid on a shell 
drawn by swans; Neptune among the tritons and Naiads; Bacchus; the Centaurs; the Muses; scenes 
from Iliad and Odyssey! How delightfully ingenuous would be a group representing Venus teach- 
ing Cupid the art of dancing: the young one in the act and the mother directing his steps; Apollo 
playing the flute and Jupiter benignly watching the scene, surrounded by other gods and goddesses. 
Then we have the history of the flood: Noah standing at the door of the Ark contemplating the 
ingress of all‘the animals into it. We can choose from the customs of different ancient'and modern 
nations: the Normandy peasants dancing opposite to each other; a Tyrolian descending a rock 
carrying on ‘his~back the carcass of a chamois; an American Indian dressed in war garb 
burying the tomahawk; or a Tartar on horseback. Then there are scenes in ordinary life. 
We can also choose from animated nature: birds, animals, the fox ready to attack an innocent 
rabbit, fish, swans on a lake surrounded by their families, birds pecking their young, and many 
other interesting subjects too numerous to mention. 


(8615). OENTER PIECES; EXPLANATION OF VARIOUS FIGURES (Pitces Montées; Explication 
des Différents Sujets), 


These figures as far as the letter I can be used for all pyramids, either of cooked, poured or 
spun sugar or of gum paste; adjust four to six pieces equally distant, and fasten them together; 
fill the intersections with arabesques, as in G and H, and surmount the whole with an ornament or 
bunch of flowers made of web sugar, the same as shown on piece K. On the projections of piece 
K, LLL rings of poured sugar can be placed, filling the centers with iced fruits; in the empty 
spaces can also be ranged sticks of poured sugar covered with fruits or small cakes, bonbons, 
almond paste, ete. The figures F and A show the effect that can be produced by using simpler 


inecthods. A 1s merely decorated with small arabesques, shown in I, in half their natural size; 
(1029) 





1030 THE EPICUREAN. 





Fic. 729 TL, F. Fic. 728. 


Fic. 729 H, 


Via. 729 3B, 



































Fie. 730 





CONFECTIONERY. 1031 


oL 


on F small sticks are fastened one to the other. Fig. 728 is made of nougat; the frog to be of green 
pistachio nougat molded in a varnished and oiled plaster mold; the rushes are green and brown. 
Fig. 730 represents a cactus on a two-shelved socle made of Parisian nougat; the flower pot is of. 
nougat containing chopped almonds and chocolate; the plant is of green pistachio nougat to imi- 
t-te the cactus. The lighthouse (Fig. 731) is of gum paste; the chimney on top of the house, from: 
\. hence arises the smoke, is imitated in wadding; the branches of the tree of very fine wire covered: 
with finely cut paper to represent the leaves, and the trunk to be of gum paste or fine wire covered 
with silk. The staircase and the boat are of gum paste; the boat lies on a piece of looking glass. 
The J and M are meant for forming socles for raising the low pieces, such as the frog, ete. J is 
made in three pieces that can be used independently, so as to make the socle either higher or lower. 


(3616), CENTER PIECES OF COOKED SUGAR (Piaces Montées en Sucre Cuit), 


For cooked sugar see Elementary Methods (No. 171). It is always necessary to have sugar 
cooked in advance so that each time some is wanted it will not have to be prepared, especially when 
only a little is to be used at atime. Have some sugar cooked to 
‘‘Jarge crack” (No. 171); when it reaches three hundred and thirty 
degrees add to it the juice of a quarter of a 
lemon and leave cook to three hundred and 
fifty degrees, then pour it hastily on a 

Fie. 732. thick marble sufficiently large to allow it 
to cool, then detach and set it away in 
hermetically closed tin boxes. To make web or spun sugar, first melt 
it slowly in a small copper pan, a little at a time, being 
careful it does not change color. This sugar is used for 
spinning sultanas, for making ornaments in spun sugar, 
or it can be used for Parisian nougat and even for candy- 
ing fruits, reducing its degree by introducing a little syrup 
at thirty-two degrees or else some glucose. For spun 
sugar pieces lightly trace with a pencil on an unpolished 
and very lightly oiled marble the outlines of the design 
needed for reproduction; cover this tracing with a thread 
of firm royal icing, either large or small according to the 
size of the piece. Fill in between these threads of icing 
with melted sugar, white or colored; detach the piece 
from the marble before it is thoroughly cold, as then 
they are apt to break easily. Instead of using royal 
icing the tracing can be outlined with a thread of spin- 
ning sugar of a different color from that used in the 
inside; put all the pieces together, attaching them in four, 
six, or eight, and ornament them here and there, when 
fastened, according to taste, with candied fruits, bonbons, 
or else small cakes, almond paste, ete.; decorate with flowers or leaves made of 
sugar molded in oiled tin molds, dipped in sugar cooked to ‘‘ crack,” lightly cooled 
in its pan, then hung by a wire to hooks slightly apart so they cannot touch one 
another. Unmold as soon as they begin to cool and place on grates until ready for use. Sheaves 
can also be made (an imitation of sheaves of rye or wheat) in very finely drawn sugar, fastened 
with an imitation band prepared with the same sugar. These sheaves may be colored or white, 
according to the taste; the sugar should be cooked to three hundred and thirty-five degrees. 
Pieces may also be decorated with pulled sugar flowers. 


(3617), TO KEEP SUBJECTS OR PIECES (Pour Conserver les Sujets ou Pisces Montées). 





Fie. 734. 





Pyramids made of spun sugar or nougat can be kept in a perfect state of preservation by 
standing them under a plain glass globe to protect them from the aci ion of the air. But should it 
be necessary to keep them for several days, then they musi certainly be placed under a glass globe 
fitting on to a hollow wooden stand opening on the top, having its surface bored with holes and 
the empty space filled in with bits of quicklime. The lime has the faculty of absorbing all 
the humidity of the atmosphere; in this way sugar can be kept intact for an indefinite period, 


especially in winter time and damp weather. Pieces made of royal icing or gum paste can also be 
kept for a long while if the above method be followed. 


1032 THE EPICUREAN. 


(3618), FLOWERS OF PULLED SUGAR (Fleurs en Sucre Tiré), 


Among the various objects that can be made of pulled sugar must be mentioned flowers and 
all kinds of leaves. which with a little taste and skill can be beautifully imitated, and if this branch 





Fic. 735. . 736. Fic. 737. 


of decoration is studied it can become one of artistic merit. At the beginning learners should not — 
undertake the task of making difficult flowers, such as roses, dahlias, or other flowers having | 
numerous petals, but must be satisfied with more simple ones, such 
as apple blossoms, wild roses, poppies, pansies, ete. 

Cook the sugar to ‘‘large crack” (No. 171), or 335 degrees 
Fahrenheit, being careful to have it very clear, transparent and 
grainless. Let it get cold on a marble slab. Melt a pound of this 
sugar in a copper pan, keeping it as white as possible. Pour a 
tablespoonful of the syrup on the marble, and add to it the color- 
ing matter for the intended flowers; pound the color should it be 
<lry; then pour over the melted sugar, and work the whole together 
with a spatula, and afterward with 
the hand until it becomes smooth and 
tractable. Put this pulled sugar into 
a mold, or on a lightly oiled dish, and 
then in a heater which should regis- 
ter 170 degrees Fahrenheit. 

It will be enough for us to explain 
the making of just a few kinds of 
flowers, in order that the work for all 
others may be understood. For in- 
stance, we will begin with a cluster 
of apple blossoms: Take from the 
heater a small quantity of very white 
pulled sugar, and dipping the finger in 
corn starch to prevent them Sticking to the sugar make some petals as shown in Fig. 7385, pressing 
it down between the thumb and 
first finger as thinly as possible, and 
detaching it with a pair of scissors 
as fast and as soon as it is pressed into 
shape, varying the shapes so that 
when finished they are not all alike. 
Use the flame of a small gas stove 
to keep the sugar soft; now heat 
the bottom of each petal over this 
gas flame, and adjust five of them 
togther to form each separate flower 
) (Fig. 786). Make also buds and 

Fie. 740. partly opened flowers. Color a little 
gum paste a bright yellow with a 
small wooden or bone tool, and form the inside. Paint the edges of the petals a pale pink, 





Fic. 739. 





; 


~~ - 


i a Se 
i. “eee ’ 






CONFECTIONERY. 1053 


also the buds, being careful to use the coloring matter as dry as possible. Now color a little of the 


pulled sugar green and form the leaves the same way as the flowers, afterward pressing them on a 


lightly oiled plaster mold to mark the veins (Fig. 740, No. 3). Melt all the fragments of the various 
colored pulled sugars, and add to it some cocoa, and with it coat various lengths of wire; twist 
them to resemble branches of trees, and stick them together (Fig. 740, No. 4), and on it mount the 
flowers and buds (Fig. 741). Proceed exactly the same for all petal flowers, such as leaves, roses, 


violets, tulips, poppies and pansies (see Fig. 737, No. 7, for the pansies). 


The bunch of apple blossoms, if well made, is most natural. For calla lilies the operation is 
entirely different. Leave the sugar, pulled very white, in the heater until it runs slightly. The 
principal object is to work it quickly. Take a small piece from the heater, the size of a walnut, 
and roll it with the rolling-pin on marble as thinly as possible, always using corn starch for the 
roller and fingers. Cut the sugar rapidly with the scissors into pieces the shape of leaves, having 
the bottom part pulled out lengthways; heating these over the gas, should the sugar get too cold 
(Fig. 738, No. 8), bend them into cornets (Fig. 738, No. 9), always while heating, and fold the 
edges outward (Fig. 738, No. 10). Color a little sugar a bright yellow, and make the inside of the 
flower. Coat it lightly with gum arabic, and roll it in powdered sugar that has already been tinted 
to a fine yellow. 

Leayes are made the same way; roll them out with the roller, cut them into long shapes, and 
press on a plaster mold to mark the veins. 

Mount the flowers and leaves on stalks of wire covered with green sugar (Fig. 739). 

The principal thing to be observed when making any object, either of sugar or nougat, is to 
perform the work as speedily as possible, for the less the pulled sugar is heated at the gas flame the 
more beautiful and brilliant it will remain, and its glossy luster will not be marred. 


Satinated Pulled Sugar.— Place three and a half pounds of lump sugar in an untinned copper 
pan and moistening with one quart of lukewarm water, leave soak for a few moments. Cook it 
on a brisk fire, skim and wash the same as for caramel and after a few boils add a heaping coffee- 
spoonful of cream of tartar. Let the sugar attain three hundred degrees, then pour it on to a very 
cold, slightly oiled marble. When sufficiently cold to allow it to be handled mass it all together 
and pull it slowly, then mass again with the palm of the hand; pull it again a little, just sufficient 
to give it a clouded appearance. Put it in the heater and use small quantities, according to the 
work to be done, pulling and massing to give it a brilliant surface. Never use this sugar when 


too hot, on the contrary work it as cold as possible so that it will not lose its brilliancy. Flowers, 


leaves, baskets, etc., can be made with satinated sugar. 


(3619), MATERIALS FOR MAKING EASY PIECES (Matiéres Pour Faire les Piéces Faciles), 


Macaroons, candied fruits, small cakes, bonbons, meringues or marchpanes fastened together 
and applied on conical-shaped molds, having their base measuring eight to ten inches in diameter, and 
ending in a point one inch in diameter, this style of piece is not much used nowadays except in | 
ordinary balls or banquets. Itis gum paste, nougat, roval icing and cooked sugar that the prettiest 


‘pieces are made of, and in these the true artist, can be readily distinguished. 


(3620), IMITATION OF NATURAL GREEN ALMONDS (Imitation d’Amandes Vertes Naturelles), 


Prepare a cooked almond paste the same as explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 125); 
davor it with orange flower water and tinge it toa light green color. Mold this paste into medium- 
sized olive shapes, split them lengthwise through the center and in the crack lay a fine white 


almond: mold and work the paste to have it assume the form of a natural green almond, then lay 


them as fast as done on a wire sieve and place in the heater to dry. When finished leave to 


get cold and glaze over with sugar cooked to ‘‘ crack” (No. 171). 


(3621), BROWN NOUGAT FOR OENTER PIECES (Nougat Brun Pour Pidces Montées): 


Put into a copper pan one pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon; 
melt the sugar on a moderate fire, and when entirely dissolved stir In one pound of almonds, either 
chopped or slightly shredded; these are to be heated at the oven door, but great ete must be, pant 
that the almonds be not too hot, for should the sugar be slightly colored then the nougat would 
become too brown; should the almonds be too hot then have the Sl “/ ebsectbagh 
if the sugar be very hot, it is unnecessary to heat them only slightly. The best nougat for eating 


is made with melted sugar, but for elaborate panel pieces requiriug much cutting it is better to use 


igar simply melted, and again, 


1034 | THE EPICUREAN. 


cooked sugar, the same as used for spinning work, without diluting with syrup. Almonds are used — 
in the proportion of six to eight ounces for every pound of sugar. This nougat is certainly not se — 
good for eating as the preceding, but it is much easier to work, for it cools with less rapidity and — 
bends with more facility. It can be molded in arabesque molds made of plaster, or else pressed — 
on to tin leaves to form moldings around different sized rings, or else around sticks to form columns, — 


The nougat is cut out when in a flat three-sixteenths of an inch thick, or even thinner, with 
cardboard designs applied on, then cut ayay all around; these -cardboards should be cut out 
beforehand into any shapes, such as rounds, ovals, squares, oblongs, triangles, ete. . 


(3622), PARISIAN, WHITE AND PISTACHIO NOUGAT (Nougat Parisien, Blanc et aux 
Pistaches), 


Parisian.—This nougat is made of hulled almonds split lengthwise and dried in a hot closet. 


After dipping them in melted cooked sugar apply them in a large biscuit mold slightly oiled, the a 


flat side of the almond lying against the inside of the mold. If a cylinder mold is used, eight 


inches high by six in diameter, dip the almonds in the melted sugar and then take them 
up one by one with a larding needle and range them on their flat side in a double reversed ~ 


wreath. 


White Nougat.-—-White nougat is made of almonds split in two through their thickness and 


warmed in a heater. Melt in an untinned copper pan one pound of powdered sugar with a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice; melt this sugar without coloring and when well dissolved mix in the 
halved almonds. Mold in a plain cylindrical mold, cut off even with the top, and when cold un- 
mold on a baking sheet and decorate either with candied fruits or spun sugar. 


Pistachio Nougat.—Have a pound of peeled and very dry pistachio nuts, leave them whole and 
warm in a heater. Melt a pound of powdered sugar on a slow fire-with a tablespoonful ef lemon 
juice; finish the same as the white. Roll both the white and pistachio nougat to a quarter of an 
inch thick and cut into inch and a quarter bands. This nougat is to be molded in plain and almost 
straight timbale molds, having just sufficient flare to allow the nougat to be unmolded; garnish the 
bottom of the mold with a round of pink nougat, (white nougat slightly colored with carmine); 
adjust the bands on the bias, alternating the white, and fasten them on the inside with bits of 
nougat dipped in sugar. These nougats are ornamented with fanciful designs of spun sugar. 
On top place a cupola of spun sugar and over an aigrette of web sugar, or any other tasteful deco- 
ration. Nougat is also made of hazel-nuts, common nuts, peanuts, Brazil nuts or butter-nuts; in 
fact with all kinds of almonds, and finished as explained for the others. 


(3623). ALMOND PASTE CANDIED (Pate d’Amandes au Candi), 


Shell and peel fourteen ounces of sweet almonds; leave to soak in fresh water for three hours, 
then pound to a pulp with a little water and kirsch, half of each, just sufficient to moisten the 
almonds so they do not oil. Cook a pound of sugar to ‘‘ crack” (No. 171), in a round bottom “ 
pan, mix the almonds in with the sugar and dry them for a few moments over a slow fire. 

If for chocolate almond paste add a little grated chocolate or else partly dissolved chocolate. 


White almond paste is colored with vegetal colorings (No. 172). Roll this paste to three-eighths of 


an inch in thickness and cut it up in small fanciful patterns; dry them in the heater and when 


sufficiently dry put them to candy (No. 3640); they can be flavored with vanilla or any other 
flavoring. 


(3624), GUM PASTE (Pastillage.) 


This is the manner of preparing gum paste used for various purposes: Have half a pound 
of very white Turkey gum tragacanth either in a glass vessel or a glazed one; wet the gum just 
sufficiently to have it covered, then close the vessel and leave it at least twelve hours or more. 
When the gum is quite soft and every hard particle disappears under the pressure of the finger 
put the gum ina heavy new towel; roll the two ends of this around two strong sticks and then 
twist each forcibly in a contrary direction until all the gum has passed through; lay it on a 
clean marble and work with the hand, incorporating half a pound of icing sugar sifted through a 
fine sieve, using more if the gum can absorb a larger quantity. Should the gum paste have too 
much consistence and recede while working, add a little water and sugar. (It is always 
preferable to have gum paste prepared the day before.) When it is required for making subjects. 


figures, dressing, draping, etc., or any other object that requires much manipulation, put a third 


” 








CONFECTIONERY. 1035 


less sugar to the above and replace it by corn starch. Should the gum paste now split it will be 
the result of too much body, therefore add a little water, sugar, corn starch, ete. If hard lumps be 
found in the gum tragacanth this is caused from it not being sufficiently or quickly worked. 
with the sugar. For gum paste ornaments and architectural designs ordinary gum paste must 
be used—all sugar and no starch (only gum, icing sugar and water). Put in as much icing 
sugar as the gum can absorb without having too much, otherwise it will be impossible to work the 
paste. Shouid the edges of the pieces that have been cut out rise up, it is because the paste has 
too much body, therefore add to it a little ordinary gum paste, icing sugar and water. There must 
be no contraction whatever; the pieces once cut must remain as they are; dry them in the air, 
being careful that no dust settles on them and avoid any strong draught. With these cut-out 
pieces of gum paste pyramids are prepared, using cardboard models prepared in advance. They 
can be kept when very dry, wrapping them up carefully and placing them on edge between sheets. 
of tissue paper and putting the pieces for each pyramid in a box to be kept in a dry place. When 
required for use fasten all the pieces of gum paste together with gum _ paste dissolved in water, 
having it liquid enough to force through a cornet, or else use royal icing. The paste can be colored 


with vegetal colorings, or gold, bronze or silver impalpable powders, after exposing the objects. 


a few moments to steam. The gum paste may also be varnished with a varnish prepared as 
follows: Put a coffeespoonful of cream of tartar into a pint of milk; set it in a hot place and when 
the milk has soured filter and add four ounces of pulverized gum arabic, four ounces of spirits of 
wine and one small dissolved gelatine leaf; pour the whole into a bottle and stand it in a hot place 
for a few hours, then strain through a fine sieve and keep well corked in a cool spot. 


(3625), MALAGA RAISINS STUFFED AND GLAZED (Raisins de Malaga Farcis et Glacés’. 


_ Split some fine Malaga raisins in two without separating the parts; remove the seeds and stuff 
one-third with a half-inch ball of almond paste (No. 125) colored white, another third with the same 
paste colored pink and the remaining third of almond paste with pistachios (No. 128); all these pastes. 
to be prepared -with cooked sugar (No. 3616); roll them into olive shapes, leaving the almond or 
pistachio paste show through the opening, and lay them at once on a wire sieve, then place in the: 
heater to let get dry and glaze with sugar cooked to ‘‘ crack” (No. 171). 


(3626), TO SPIN SUGAR BY THROWING (Pour Filer le Sucre & la Jetée), 


First have a spinner constructed as follows: On the entire surface of a round of sheet iron five. 
inches in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick are to be riveted wire pegs an eighth of an inch. 
in diameter and three and a half inches long, and at three-quarters of an inch apart from each 
other. A solid handle is fastened to the spinner. Cook in a copper pan two or three pounds of 
sugar to ‘“ large crack” (No. 171) or three hundred degrees Fahrenheit. As soon as done. 
remove from the fire. Place several clean and oiled baking sheets on the floor. With the 
left hand take a small stick and hold it horizontally to the height of the chest or else lay it project- 
ing over the edge of a table; with the right hand plunge the spinner into the sugar, take it out and. 
drain off all the superfluous sugar; then, moving the instrument vigorously backward and forward 
over the small stick until all the sugar has run off in threads, redip the spinner into the sugar and 
begin the same movement again, continuing until all the sugar is spun. In case there be no spinner 
handy, a spoon can be used, dipping it into the cooked sugar, lifting it out and leaving all the- 
surplus sugar drain off by moving it backward and forward the same as the spinner. 


(3627). SUGAR FOR CASTING IN MOLDS (Sucre & Couler dans les Moules), 


Place some lumps of sugar in a copper pan; pour over sufficient water to soak and : 
dissolved, when mix in a few drops of acetic acid and cook to 245 degrees; then remove from 
the fire, color a light blue with ultramarine blue and rub it against fhe sides of the pan with a 
wooden spoon to grain it. Pour it at once into molds; plaster ones ave genera lly used for this purpose, 
having them properly dipped in cold water, then well drained and tied around firmly with a string 
so that the sugar cannot escape from the joints of the mold. After the mold is full wait until the 
sugar congeals on top, then break this thin crust and turn the mold upside down to empty out all 
the liquid sugar in order to hare the subject hollow in the center. Unmold earefully, removing, 
each piece one by one; pare them neatly and leave to cool in a ary, but not a hot place. 


leave till 


* 


1028 | THE EPICIUREAN. 


LARGE PIECES (Grandes Piéces), 





(3628), BASKETS FILLED WITH CANDIED FRUITS, OR ICE CREAM FRUITS (Corbeilles 
Garnies de Fruits, ou de Fruits en Glace), 


Take some ordinary nougat (No. 3621) and roll it out to a quarter of an inch in thickness; from 
it cut a round ten inches in diameter. Prepare twenty-one wires, each five inches long, coat them _ 
with a layer of colored pulled sugar (No. 3618) three-sixteenths of an inch thick and fasten them 





Fig. 742. ; . Fia. .743. 


to the round of nougat at half an inch from the edge, leaving an inch space between each one. 
Have some pulled sugar, either white or colored; imitatea rope and arrange it around the base of 
the basket; pull some more sugar and roll it into strings a quarter of an inch thick and three feet 
tong; make a braid of this sugar the same as a wicker basket going in and out of the wires, con. 





tinuing as far as the top, finishing the whole with another rope the same asthe bottom. Make the 
handles two and a half inches in diameter with the same sugar and pass them through rings fastened 
with sugar cooked to ‘‘crack (No. 171). Inside the upper part of the basket arrange a nougat 


foundation and cover it either with candied fruits, fresh fruits or else those made of ice cream or 
water ice. 


(3629), PERRETTE’S BASKET (Le Panier de Perrette), 


Have some nougat made of chopped almonds (No. 3621); roll it out to a quarter of an inch in 
thickness and cut it into an oval nine by five inches. Have sixteen pieces of wire, each six inches 
long; cover all of them with a three-sixteenths of an inch layer of pulled and colored sugar (No. 
3618); bend each one separately while the sugar is still hot, then fasten them around the nougat 


CONFECTIONERY. 103% 





oval, an inch from the border; spread the wires outward on top. Make a ropeof pulled white sugar, 
place it around the bottom of the basket; roll some more pulled sugar into quarter-inch diameter. 
strings and braid it around the wires, finishing the top with another braid of pulled sugar. In the. 





center fasten a sufficiently large handle, cover it with flowers and leaves made of pulled sugar and’ 
at one end tie a pretty satin ribbon bow three inches in width and of a color harmonizing with the. 
basket. Put a nougat bottom inside the basket at two-thirds of its height, then fill up with chest- 
nuts made of chestnut paste iced over with chocolate, or else ice cream in imitation of mushrooms, 
strawberries, etc. 


(3630). BASKET WITH CHERRIES (Panier de Cerises). 


To begin this basket first have an oval board ten and a half inches long by six inches. 
wide; all around this oval bore holes a quarter of an inch in diameter and one inch apart from 
each other. Out as many pieces of wire four and a half inches long as there are holes perforated 
in the board; straighten and envelop them in cooked sugar to form into sticks three-sixteenths. 





of an inch thick. After these sticks are cold dip the ends of each one separately in melted sugar 
and fasten them in the holes in the board. Now prepare some pulled sugar as described in No. 
3618; take a little of this at a time and pull it into strings a quarter of an inch thick, and with 
these braid the basket as high as the top of the sticks. Pull two sticks with the same sugar, only 
sightly thicker than those used for braiding the basket and a little longer than half the circum 


1038 THE EPICUREAN 


ference of the basket; fasten these two sticks together and twist them so as to imitate a thick rope; . 
flatten this partly and fasten it at once on half of the edge of the basket, then pull two more — 
sticks the same as the others, twist them the same way to obtain another thick rope, flatten it also 
and fasten it to the other half of the basket’s edge. To make the handle pull three strings of sugar 
the same thickness and twenty inches long, braid them together and as soon as this is done hend 
the plait so as to shape the handle and when it is cold attach it to the basket. The two covers are 
made as follows: Pull two strings of sugar five-sixteenths of an inch thick, and bend each one so 
as to form a frame the shape and size of the opening of the basket, then pull more strings and 
while they are still hot fasten them diagonally on to these frames, and on top of these fasten others, 


crossing them in such a way that they form a lattice work. When these covers are finished attach 


them solidly against the handle of the basket. Trim around the base of the basket with a wreath 
of leaves, either gilded or silvered, arranging them symmetrically. Fill the basket tastefully with 
cherries made of almond paste (No. 125) and leaves of pulled sugar. 


(363). “BON VOYAGE” BOAT SERVED AT A FAREWELL DINNER (Bateau “Bon Voyage,” 
Servi a l’Occasion d’un Départ), 


The shell of the boat is made of brown nougat (No. 3621), molded in a plaster mold, oiled and — 
varnished with shellac, first well dried, then oiled; the masts are made of wire covered with pulled 
sugar (No. 3618) ofa yellowish hue; the cordage of silk, and the sails of pulled sugar exceedingly 
white, remelted on a slow fire, and rolled out speedily with a roller, then cut with cardboard patterns 
into the shape of the various sails, afterward laid on sheets of tin bent to the needed form. The waves 
are imitated in pulled sugar of a greenish color, and the letters on the standard are painted with 
gold paint. The entire boat can be made of white or colored gum paste (No. 3624), and the water 


























imitated with green royal icing (No. 101). This piece may be filled either with fresh or candied 
fruits, such as Malaga grapes stuffed with almond paste (No. 125); candied cherries or strawberries 


and angelica, or else instead of these have imitation flowers made of ice cream and angelica 
lozenges. 


(3632), CHARIOT FILLED WITH LADY APPLES (Chariot Garni de Pommes d’Api), 


Tomake the chariot the wheels must first be constructed. The hoops of the wheels are made with 
thick bands of nougat (No. 3621), three-quarters of an inch broad; bend these around a cylindrical 
mold four inches in diameter and stick the parts together with cooked sugar (No. 3616). To make the 
spokes of these wheels, roll out some nougat to three-eighths of an inch in thickness and then divide 
it into small sticks half the length of the diameter of the hoops of the wheels; when these are all cold 
fasten the small sticks inside the wheel with cooked sugar, having them laid at even distances 


apart, and fasten a small round piece of nougat in the center to imitate the naves of the wheel; 
now make the axles with two pieces of strong wire, each six and a half inches in length; en- 
velop these in cooked sugar and when cold attach them firmly on the wheels. Make the bottom 


of the chariot with a layer of nougat twelve inches long by six wide and when this is very cold 








R 


CONFECTIONERY. 1039 


fasten it solidly on the axles. Next make the two ladders as hereby described: Roll out a band of 
nougat to five-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, pare it straight and even on both ends having it 
twelve inches long; divide it lengthwise into four very straight sticks five-sixteenths of an es 
wide; roll out some more nougat to a quarter of an inch in thickness and cut this into even 
sticks three and a quarter inches long; take up two of the long sticks, lay them down paralle! 
at three and a quarter inches distance apart and between these attach diagonally a row of the small 
sticks slightly apart from one another, and again on these a second row Hise laid diagonally, but in 
an opposite direction, so that one row crosses the other. Having finished the first iaader nceen 
to make the second. Fasten these two ladders solidly on the bottom of the chariot and against the 





Fic. 748. 


wheels. Make the shafts with two very thin wires enveloped in cooked sugar and when cold attack 
them to the front of the chariot. The socle is now to be made: Have two flats of nougat three- 
sixteenths of an inch thick, one for the upper part to be seventeen inches long by eleven anda 
half wide, and the second one for the bottom nineteen inches long by thirteen and a half inches 
wide; also make four nougat bands for the framework and fasten them firmly with cooked sugar; 
on this framework lay the second flat and fasten it also to form the socle or stand; fasten around 
the bottom of this socle a triple row of nougat points cut very evenly and placed symmetrically; 
decorate the border of the second flat with oak leaves and acorns made of sugar, and lastly con- 
Struct the fence with sticks of nougat cut a quarter of an inch inthickness. Lay the chariot on 
this stand and fill it with small lady apples formed of gum paste (No. 3624) or grained sugar, and 
fasten here and there some apple leaves made of cooked sugar. 


(3633), CHARIOT OF DOVES (Le Chariot des Colombes), 


The body of the chariot is made and molded of white nougat (No. 3622) ina plaster mold, 
divided in two, well garnished with shellac and oiled; the border of the shell is made of almond 


41040 - ‘THE EPICUREAN. 


paste (No. 125) and gum tragacanth cut out in a design; the wheels are of nougat or pulled sugar 
(No. 3618), the spokes, the ring and the axle cut out separately and fastened together with cooked 
sugar; the nails are imitated with royal icing (No. 101); the shafts are made of wire covered with — 





Fie. 749. 


nougat or pulled sugar. Stand. the chariot. on an oval stand of pistachio nougat (No. 3622) the size Be 


of the bottom of the dish intended for serving. Place a false nougat bottom inside the chariot, then 
fill it up with candied fruits iced over with caramel and angelica. This ‘chariot can also be made of 
gum paste (No. 3624) and filled with candied fruits or fruits and flowers of all desc made 
in ice cream or water ice. 


(3634), CHARIOT OF SWANS (Le Char des Oygnes), 


This piece is made entirely of gum paste (No. 3624), the swan is molded in a two-piece plaster 
mold, the two halves of the swan are fastened together, the crevices filled with softened gum paste, 
then thoroughly dried. Wash off with a sponge and imitate the eyes and beaks with a brush. 





The shell 1s also molded in a dry plaster mold and is decorated on the outspread parts with designs” 
of gum paste bronzed or gilded. On the thin end of the shell stand a Cupid made of gum paste; 
the ring encircling the swan is of gum paste, the reins of silk and the harness of satin ribbon; 
the whole is made to stand on an oval bottom cut the size of the dish it is served on. The waves” 
are made of royal icing (No. 101) tinted a pale gr een. Fill the chariot with iced candied. fruits, 
candies, or else ice cream or water ices. ‘a 


(3635). CORNUCOPIA, HORN OF PLENTY (Corne d’Abondance), 


This cornucopia is molded in a mold the shape of Fig. 751. It is made of pulled sugar (No. 3618), 
remelted and rolled out with a roller—this must be done very quickly—or else it can be made of 
white nougat (No. 3622) decorated with royal icing (No. 101) or of gum paste (No. 3624). Fasten 
it on the opening side on a nougat surtout, and support the body of the cornucopia by fastening 
two rests molded in gum paste in a two-piece mold, and place a wire in the center of each; attach 
the two pieces together and let get very dry. The cornucopia is surmounted by agum paste Cupid; 
the inside border of the opening of the dish is made of pulled sugar and is composed of rings, with 
smaller ones of a darker color placed inside of one another; bend them lightly to spread open on 
sheets of tin, then fasten them to the inside border of the dish with cooked sugar; between each 





CONFECTIONERY. | 1041 





one arrange a lozenge of glazed angelica. The openi 
: pening of the ¢ ia is fi i i 
fruits, or else others made of chestnut or almond paste (No. 125), Sarasa: eee 
o 





“crack i (No. 171). This piece may be made of white gum paste (No. 3624) and decorated with 
gold reliefs, or it may be utilized by replacing the fruits with fruits imitated in cream or water 
ices. 


(3636), THE DOSSER A LA DENIVELLE (La Hotte a la Denivelle), 


Roll out some nougat (No. 3621) to a quarter of an inch in thickness, and from it cut with either 
a tin or oiled cardboard pattern a piece fifteen inches long by six on one’end and four on the other in 

















Fie. 752. 


rt of the dosser; also cut another piece 
and a half inches in radius. Prepare 
arters, two of seven and a half, two 
coat them all with 


width, rounding the six-inch end which is for the upper pa 
of a semicircular shape four inches in diameter by two 

eleven wires, two eight inches long, two of seven and three-qu 
of seven and a quarter, two of seven and one of six and three-quarters inches; 


AV42 THE EPICUREAN. 


colored sugar. Fasten the semi-circular bottom on the large piece at its narrowest end, near a 
the edge; on this bottom arrange the wires, beginning with the eight-inch ones on each side ~ 
‘beside the back of the dosser, and continuing with the others according to their various lengths, ar 
the same time spreading them open toward the top. Coat with green sugar two more wires each 
nine inches long, and leave tocool. Cut out a round bottom twelve inches in diameter, then fasten 
the dosser on the center of it, pressing it against the two long wires to be used for a support; 
decorate the whole profusely with leaves and flowers made of satinated pulled sugar (No. 3618), 
and fill the dosser with mushrooms or strawberries made of almond paste (No. 125), also some 
angelica coated with sugar cooked to ‘‘ crack” (No, 171). The dogser may be filled with small ices 
imitating flowers. 


(3637), VASES OF PULLED AND DRAWN SUGAR (Vases en Sucre Filé et Tiré), 


All pieces that are made of pulled and spun sugar are exceedingly useful for many reasons, 
as large-sized pieces can be executed at a comparatively low cost and yet be most elegant, grace- 
ful and light; besides the rapidity of the execution, they can be made to assume a great variety of 
shapes, and all this with very few or even no molds. The designs shown in Figs. 758 and 754, 


.) : . 


SANA 
SW 





Fic. 754. 





will demonstrate the many uses to be made of pulled and spun sugar, and although they 
demand much skill and attention, yet they do not offer the same difficulties as gum _ paste. 
‘The socles or stands for these pieces may be of white nougat (No. 3622), molded and cut out, and 
the embellishments around the base of the vases may also be of almond paste (No. 125) glazed with 
caramel. The three swans seen on one of the socles are made of very white cooked sugar (320 
degrees Fahrenheit). poured into slightly oiled tin molds; leave till cold, then unmold. The whole 
work must be mounted symmetrically, being careful that each part is firmly attached and the piece 
perfectly secure. For vases of white or colored cooked sugar (No. 3616) trace outlines of the de- 
signs on marble (see Fig. 733), having sixteen, twenty-four or even thirty-two pieces for each vase. 
Take a stick six to eight inches higher than the intended vase and coat it with cooked sugar; 
roll it on the marble until it becomes exceedingly smooth, leave it until cold, then fasten it verti- 
cally on to the center of the socle; adapt the traced pieces perpendicularly around this stick at equal 








Marr eG ULONERY. > 1043 


distances apart. Prepare the flowers and leaves of pulled sugar (Figs. 735 to 741); mount them on 
wire stalks covered with sugar, and attach them solidly against the stick inside the top of the vase, 
spreading them open slightly to enlarge and to give a graceful effect to the blossoms. Decorate 
the base of the socle with flowers and leaves of pulled sugar. Should the pieces be very large, 
_ then it will be found advisable to mount the bouquet separately and place it in the vase when in 
position on the dinner table; in this case instead of having the stick higher than the vase it must 
be at least six inches lower, to leave room for a receptacle intended to receive the flowers, the latter 
to be the same shape and size as the upper portion of the vase, and to be made of nougat (No. 3622), 
stand this inside the vase and place the flowers tastefully within. 


43638). WHEELBARROW FILLED WITH FLOWERS ON A SOCLE (Brouette Garnie de Fleurs sur 
Socle), 


Have ready an oval socle made of brown nougat, the same as shown in Fig. 756; decorate it 
with agricultural implements and leaves of pulled sugar made by hand; the rope around the base 
of the socle is made with two strings twisted quickly and fastened to the border and around the 
under base; the top tray is made of green pistachio nougat (No. 3622). On top of the entire socle 
arrange a wheelbarrow made in four pieces of pink or any other color of pulled sugar, rolled out to 
three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, then cut out with patterns made beforehand and after the 
drawing; the shafts and rests are made of wire covered with pulled sugar and bent to the desired 














sugar cooked to ‘‘ crack;” the flowers*tliat fill the barrow and the border on top are made of pulled 

sugar to which a little chocolate has been added... oes ae cs 
This piece of confectionery may be made of gum paste (No. 3624), either white or any bens 

color; the wheelbarrow can be filled, as well as the one above, with glazed fruits or fancy Ices, suc 


as potatoes, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc., and the bottom of the socle garnished around with fruits, 


or fruits in cases glazed with caramel, or with small light waffles dressed in a circle, one overlap- 
ping the other. 


(3639), WINDMILL (Moulin & Vent). | 
is always sure to be well received. The great variety 


: i ite an old idea ive i 
This pyramid, though qalyesa scenes of country life, give it 


of its details, and the figures which can be added to it, representing oir hciieaciie ee 
an attractive appearance which can hardly be obtained in architectural bee id be) meth ne pe 
cution offers no great difficulties, yet great care and exactitude m sd ch ‘ : = i | ts is : ee 
the different pieces of which it is composed, for there is the essential eS nee : wi mi ha austel a 
pletion. The cut is a reduction of the original, and can thus serve as 4 asis $e ; 


1044 THE EPICUREAN. 


either in multiplying or diminishing its dimensions, according to the desired size of the pyramid. 
Cut out with great precision patterns of strong cardboard, and, if to be used for nougat, oil them 
well. The part of the pyramid representing the walls is made of white nougat (No. 3622) with 
chopped almonds, rolled on the marble to about one-quarter of an inch thick, and with the help of 


oiled patterns cut out rapidly the windows and the doors. The roof is of nougat covered with imi- 


tation of tiles made of almond paste (No. 125) colored a light chocolate or a light brick red, rolled 
to a sheet one-sixteenth of an inch thick. Cut out with a tin circular cutter and then put on, begin- 
ning with the bottom layer, each layer successively overlapping the other. The large platform and 
the doors are of ordinary brown nougat (No. 3621), the railing of lightly colored chocolate sugar, and 
composed of pieces cut with a knife and stuck together with melted sugar. The windows are made 
of sugar boiled to three hundred and thirty degrees, very clear, rolled thin and placed in the interior. 








Fia. 757. 


The rustic beams are made of chocolate pulled sugar (No. 3618), the stairways of brown nougat and 
the wings of the mill are composed of four pieces of wire, covered and rolled in brown cooked sugar, 
and of white pulled sugar melted and rolled thin, and cut out with scissors. The little sticks across 
the wings are made of lightly colored chocolate sugar and put on about one-eighth of an inch apart. 
The rock or base is twelve inches high, and is composed of two wood platforms, supported by a wood 
framework, around which bunches of crumpled paper are put on, which is then covered with green 
nougat, rolled thin and garnished with herbs and plants imitated with green pulled sugar. This 
whole pyramid can also be made of clear sugar exclusively, boiled to three hundred and thirty-five 
degrees, very transparent, melted over and poured on a tracing of patterns on marble and filled in 
as described. Or, further yet, of gum paste (No. 3624) exclusively, in natural colors or white, 
taking great care, however, not to set up the pieces until each one is perfectly dry. The windows 






| 
; 
‘ 






CONFECTIONERY. 1045 


could then be imitated by thin sheets of mica or gelatine, and the base of gum paste d wi 

royal icing (N 0. 101). Or, the ambitious workman ean imitate with eum paste a mane ae he 
his shoulder, going up the stairway, or two peasants eating and drinking or j t ce th 
children around her, and many other subjects of country life and customs pen eee 


(8639a), THE PROLIFIC TREE (L’Arbre Prodigieux), 


In order to make a tree two feet in height cut the wires varying from four to fourteen inches i 
length. Prepare some nougat with chopped almonds (No. 3621), iecoriokatnk suffi me ae a 
color it brown; roll out enough of this to be able to cut out a piece a quarter of Be Are ah a 
inches long and seven inches wide in the part intended for the base and slightl Lara ate 
top. Wrap this piece of nougat around a wooden support in imitation of the eit of % oui 






































Fia. 758. 


leave to cool; coat the wires with nougat proportionately thick according to their length, and thicker 
on the ends that are to be attached to the trunk; bend them as soon as covered to shape them into 
knotty and irregular boughs, and leave to cool. Color some white nougat (No. 3622) a pistachio 
green, roll it out on a marble to a quarter of an inch in thickness, and from it cut a round bottom 
sixteen inches in diameter, then attach it to a board of the same size. At two inches from the edge 
fasten the trunk of the tree on solidly and decorate it with the boughs, having the heaviest attached 
to the trunk, and the lighter ones attached to these. Melt some cooked sugar, mix in a little eecoe 
and chopped almonds, and with a knife coat over the trunk and the branches to imitate the bark 
and the roots at the foot of the tree. Pull some dark green-colored sugar, a very little at a time, 
and with it form leaves as described in No. 3618; trim the branches with these. and also with cherries 
made of almond paste (No. 125) and glazed, or else substitute pears or little apples, or better still 
green almonds, but any imitated fruit can be used. Place a ladder against the tree, made of wire 
covered with chocolate-colored sugar, and on this stand a small image to representa cupid stealing 


1046 THE EPICUREAN. 





the fruit, and at one side another cupid receiving the picked fruit. Make these figures of — 
gum paste (No. 3624). Make the boughs and bushes around the foot of the tree of pulled sugar 
(No. 3618), also the rope that surrounds it. These trees can be varied as regards both size and: 
subject. One or more trees can be arranged on a single board without any figures or subjects. 


(3640), CANDYING, COLD AND HOT (Candi a Froid et & Chaud), 


Cold.—This manner of candying is specially adapted for bonbons. Put some lump sugar in 
a copper pan, pour over sufficient water to dissolve it, and as soon as this takes place set it on the 
fire to cook to thirty-five degrees; when the sugar has attained this degree take the pan from the 
fire and stand it in a basin or any other receptacle filled with cold water; cover the sugar witha 
round of paper, and leave stand till cold. Now pour it into the candy pans containing the pieces: 
to be candied; put ina dry place in a moderate temperature and leave for twelve to eighteen hours; 
drain off the syrup and place the candied pieces on a grate to dry. 


Hot.—This manner of candying is used specially for candying preserved fruits. Cook some. 
syrup to thirty-six degrees; leave rest for one instant, then pour it into the candy pans, having the 
fruits already arranged therein: place the. _pan in a heater, having it moderately hot, and remove: 
only after six or seven Aoure,. or when the fruits are all: coated. 


a 
: 2 


(3641), TO CAST IN STARCH (Pott Couler » Amidon). 


To cast in starch wooden: boxes aré: ‘required twenty inches. long, fourteen inches wide and 
three inches seat Fill these boxes with very dry starch to a quarter of an inch from the top; stir 
a about with a small whip to have it light, then smooth neatly with a 

ruler; now imprint into it with small plaster molds fastened on to a 
keto ruler at some distance apart, burying them in the starch until the 
ruler touches the edges of the box. Should these small molds haye a 
channeled surface or deeply imprinted designs, then before lifting them 
out of the starch rap the ruler lightly on top to have any of the starch 
! that may adhere fall away. Care must be taken to sift the starch 
Fic. 759. from time to time to rid it of any lumps or grains of sugar that may have 
formed therein. To cast the sugar use a funnel in the center of which is. 

a rod terminating in a ball that fits the outlet of the funnel accurately. This rod is moved up 






















































































ee eee, 


* 
a 


funnel. 





CANDIES (Bonbons),’ 


Oe ee eee te ase 


(3642), BURNT. ALMONDS (Pralines), 

Put a pound and a half of sugar and half of a vanilla bean ina pan, dissolve it with a little 
water and stand it on the fire to cook to thirty-four degrees (syrup gauge), then add one pound of 
fine almonds; mix all together with a wooden spoon and continue to cook until the sugar reaches. 
“crack” (No. 171), stirring the almonds steadily till the sugar granulates. Take the pan from the. 
fire and pour both sugar and almonds into a coarse sieve to separate the almonds from the granu- 
lated sugar, return the almonds to the pan, stand it on the fire and stir constantly until the sugar 
covering the almonds melts away, adding from time to time a small handful of the granulated : 
sugar. As soon as all the sugar 1s added and that surrounding the almonds is well dissolved, pout 
it immediately on to a slab, separating them from each other, and leave to cool. Put a heaping, 
tablespoonful of dissolved gum arabic in a basin, dilute it with a little water and let it come to a 
boil; then add the burnt almonds and toss until entirely covered; pour at once on to a sieve and: 
place in the heater to dry. 


ae RR a 


(3648). CHOCOLATE CREAM CARAMELS (Caramels & la Orame au Chocolat), 


Melt twelve ounces of chocolate in a copper pap with a pint and a half of good cream and half 
a pint of fruit syrup well flavored with vanilla, then add a pound and a half of sugar. Stand 
the pan on a hot fire and when the liquid begins to boil stir it vigorously with a spatula until it 


CONFECTIONERY. 104% 





peenche s “large ball” (No. 171), then pour it on a slightly oiled marble to half an inch in thickness: 
securing the caramel within lightly oiled square iron rods laid in the shape of asquare. Thi 1€ tenia 
takes a long while to cool; when cold remove the rulers, detach from the aah aon ae ian 
into long bands half an inch wide, and these across in half-inch squares. As fast me 1 : 

are cut wrap each one in a piece of waxed paper. eee eh eee ae 


(3644), VANILLA OREAM CARAMELS, OR WITH TBA OR COFFEE (Caramels & la Oréme» 
Vanillés au Thé ou au Café), 


. Set a pound of sugar in a copper pan to melt with three-quarters of a pint of cream, adding a. 
split vanilla bean; stand the pan on a brisk fire and stir steadily until cooked to “large ball be (No 
ty 171), then pour it in a square formed on the marble with slightly oiled square iron rsda having it: 
: the same thickness as the chocolate caramels. When cold cut out and wrap in wana aapeel : 





dinishing them exactly the same as the chocolates. These caramels can be flavored with tea or: 
“coffee, proceeding as for the above, only using one pound of sugar, two gills of cream and a gill! 
“and a half of infused tea or coffee. | | 


mi? 12... | 
ge (3645), CORDIAL CANDIES (Bonbons aux Liqueurs), 


Se 

These candies are cast in starch. First prepare the boxes of starch, impressed as explained im 
No. 3641; put two pounds of sugar in a copper basin, dissolve with three gills of water an@ 
stand it on the fire to cook the sugar to thirty-six degrees (syrup gauge); when the sugar attains. 
‘this degree add a small cordial glassful of kirsch, maraschino or any other desired cordial,. 
to bring the syrup back to thirty-two degrees, stirring it well. Now pour this syrup into a serie 
funnel (Fig. 759) and cast. the candies in the starch impressions; put the filled box in the 
heater at a moderate temperature and leave for twelve hours. They should now have formed a 
sufficiently thick crust to allow them to be worked; remove carefully from the starch, brush one at 
-a time with a very soft hair brush, and lay them at once on a grate to cool, then stand this 
grate on a candy pan and cover the candies with a cold thirty-two degree syrup; lay a piece of- 
paper on top to keep the candies submerged. Put this candy pan in a mild temperature and leave: 
for six hours. Then drain off the syrup, take out the candies to arrange them on a second grate: 
and leave to dry. Instead of crystallizing these candies they can be iced with fondant (No. 58}; 


flavored with cordial. 


™, 


; 
4 
* 


Sa 
- 


(3646).. DROPS (Pastilles), 


These are made by mixing powdered sugar from which the icing sugar has been removed by™ 
sifting through a very fine sieve, flavored either with aromatics or fruit Juices, to the consistency 
of a paste. They are all prepared exactly alike; those composed of fruit should be a little more : 
liquid and a little less heated than those with aromatically flavored waters. They should all be~ 


dropped on to bright tin plates. 
(8647), PEPPERMINT DROPS (Pastilles de Menthe), 


Mix seven ounces of the same sugar as above with about two ounces of water, favored with # 
few drops of peppermint essence, to form into a paste; heat it the same as for the strawberry, 
drops, only warming it rather more, and finish exactly the same. 


(3648), STRAWBERRY DROPS (Pastilles aux Fraises), 


Place seven ounces of powdered sugar, prepared as (No. 3646), in a small copper pan having a 
spout, and reduce it to the consistency of a paste with about an ounce of filtered strawberry juice;: 
color lightly with liquid carmine to give it a pink hue. Stand the pan on the fire and heat until the 
paste flows, stirring continuously with a small spatula; however, it must be of a consistency not to 
spread when dropped on the trays. To dress, hold the pan in the left hand, inclining the spout 
toward the tray, and in the right hand hold a small wire; with this cut the paste away from the 
spout as fast as it runs out, thus leaving it fall in small pieces to form into drops three-eighths of- 
an inch in diameter and slightly apart from each other. Half an hour after they can be detached! 
from the tray by bending it slightly and then shaking them; throw on a sieve to finish drying. 


(3649), FILBERT CANDIES (Bonbons d’Avelines en Qonserve), 


Procure small plaster molds imitating hazel-nuts and fasten them to a ruler, then imprint: 
1 very fine paste with a gill and a 


them in starch. Peel six ounces of filberts and crush to form < 


1048 THE EPICUREAN. “= : 


half of water. Cook a pound of sugar to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171), add the pounded nuts, stir well — 
and cast it at once into the starch impressions; when these candies have sufficiently hardened in the — 
starch to be able to be handled take them out, one by one, brush carefully and stand on a sieve to 
cool; they can afterward be dipped in cold crystallized syrup until completely coated with candy. — 


(8650), CHOCOLATE FONDANTS (Fondants au Chocolat), 


Dissolve four ounces of chocolate with two gills of water; add half a stick of vanilla and a 
pound and a half of sugar; continue to cook until it reaches ‘‘ small ball” (No. 171), then pour it on 
a marble slab and leave to cool; work to obtain a fondant, proceeding the same as for No. 58. Put 
a part of this ina copper pan to melt, adding a spoonful of vanilla syrup, then cast this in the 
starch. As soon as the candies are firm and cold take them out and brush over; melt the 
remainder of the fondant, softening it with vanilla syrup, and dip the candies in this. ) 


(3651), VANILLA FONDANTS (Fondants a la Vaunille), | ~ a 


Have some conical-shaped molds, with rounded tops, a quarter of an inch in diameter at their _ 
base and a quarter of an inch high; impress them into the starch. Put one pound of fondant 
(No. 58) in a sugar pan, add two tablespoonfuls of thirty-four degree syrup strongly flavored 
with vanilla and stand it on the fire to heat until the finger can yet be held in, then pour it 
into a spring funnel (Fig. 759) and run it through into the impressions in the starch; when the 
candies are cold and firm take them carefully from the starch, brush gently with a brush and 
stand them on a grate, then put away in a cold place. These can be dipped in fondant well 
flavored with vanilla. 


(3652), FONDANTS DIPPED IN STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY (Fondants Trempés & la Fraise 
ou a la Framboise), 


Put some fondant into a eopper pan and heat well, dissolving it with a few spoonfuls of straw- 
berry or raspberry juice. As soon as hot cast it through a funnel into the starch, proceeding the 
same as for vanilla fondant (No. 3651). When firm and cold take them carefully from the 
starch and dip each one in a strawberry or raspberry fondant lightly tinted with a little carmine. 


(3653), CANDIES FOR MOTTOES (Bonbons pour Papillotes), 


Have some small conical-shaped plaster molds, the bottoms being detruncated and rounded; 
they should be an inch in diameter at the bottom and one inch high. Fasten these molds on a ruler 
slightly apart from each other, then with this ruler imprint the molds into the starch. Put two 
pounds of sugar in a copper sugar basin and dissolve it with a pint and a half of water; stand this 
on the fire to cook to ‘‘ large ball” (No. 171), being careful to remove all the scum and keep the sides 
of the pan clean. When the sugar has reached the proper degree let it fall to ‘‘small ball” by 
adding a few spoonfuls of orange flower water, then remove the pan from the fire and with a 
wooden spoon rub the sugar against the sides to mass it. As soon as it begins to whiten stir it well 
and cast it into the starch impressions, using a spring funnel (Fig. 759) for this purpose; when the 
box is full bestrew the candies lightly with a handful of starch and put the box in a heater for two 
orthree hours. After the candies are hard remove them from the starch and range them on grates 
or on asieve to cool thoroughly, then brush over with a camel’s hair or feather brush. To wrap up 
these candies spread open some variegated colored motto papers, in the center of each lay a printed 
motto folded in four and on this one of the candies, then fold the paper all around toward the 
center and use a string attached to the table to enclose the candy (this is done by giving the string 
a turn around the motto and pulling on it, then the motto is released and will be found firmly 
twisted) and form a bouquet with the fringed ends of the paper. 


(3654), NORTHERN JELLY CANDIES (Bonbons du Nord & la Gelée), 


Fasten some plaster half-spherical or convex molds on a ruler and with it make the impressions 
in the starch. Prepare a pint of apple jelly the same as in No. 3668, only cooking it a little more; 
bring this to the ordinary degree of cooking, adding either rum, kirsch or other liquor, then east it 
in the starch impressions through a spring funnel (Fig. 759). Put the boxes in a heater and leave 
for eight or ten hours. By this time the jelly will have formed into thin crusts sufficiently hardened 
to be taken out carefully and laid on a wire sieve. When cold, brush each one separately with a 
fine hair brush and then dip into a liquor-flavored fondant (No. 58). Instead of dipping them in 
the fondant they can be candied by laying them in a cold-syrup, the same as for No. 3659... [- 

















CONFECTIONERY. 1049 
+ 

— a (3655). NOUGAT, SOFT AND HARD (Nougat Mou et Dur), 

4 4 Soft White Nougat.—Heat three pounds of white honey, cook separately three pounds of sugar 
“ball” (two hundred and thirty-six degrees Fahrenheit). Whip eight egg-whites in a copper 
sin to a stiff froth, add the honey and the cooked sugar and continue beating the whites on a 
‘slow fire until the preparation is at ‘small crack” (two hundred and ninety degees Fahrenheit). 
et his degree of heat will be recognized by taking up a small part with the tip of a knife, dipping it 
i n cold water, and when crumbled it should fall into a powder. During this time cook three pounds 
of sugar to *‘ crack ” (three hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit); mix it with the whites, adding 
_ five pounds.of whole almonds and a quarter of a pound of hulled and dried pistachios. Fill some 
_ oblong tin cases with this, having them previously lined with white wafers. Pour the nougat in 
_ the case, leave to cool, then cut in slices. 

. Another Proportion is a pound and three-quarters of almonds, one pound of sugar, one pound 
a of white honey, five egg-whites, a quarter of a pound of pistachios, two ounces of burnt almonds, 
_ and yanilla; finish the same as the above. 

__—s-— Hard White Nougat.—¥Four pounds of heated honey, two pounds of sugar cooked to “ ball” 
_ (three hundred and twenty-six degrees Fahrenheit), two pounds cooked to ‘‘ small crack ” (two hun- 
_ dred and ninety degrees Fahrenheit), five pounds of almonds, a quarter of a pound of pistachios 
__ and five beaten egg-whites. Cut in slices when nearly cold. The same preparation as for the soft 
white nougat. 


it 


~*~ 


(3656), TORTILLONS (Tortillons). 


_ Place one pound of loaf sugar in a copper sugar basin with sufficient water to melt, then stand 
. - it on the fire to cook to three hundred and twenty-five degrees Fahrenheit, being careful to keep 
_ the sides clean, and proceed as explained for cooking sugar (No. 171). When ready pour it on a 
lightly oiled marble, add at once a few drops of peppermint essence and begin to raise up the 
edges, bringing them toward the center until the sugar can be handled with the hands, then begin 
_ to pull till it attains a very glossy, silvery appearance; pull again to a quarter of an inch in diame- 
ter string, and cut this quickly into small pieces an inch and a half long, bending each one imme- 
diately into the shape of a ring. The pulling, cutting and bending should be performed with 
despatch, before the sugar has time to cool, when it will fail to bend. The sugar may be colored 
either light pink or pale green just when flavoring. 


= 
a“ —— 


(3657), TROCADEROS WITH RASPBERRY (Trocadéros & la Framboise), 


___ Proceed the same as for Trocaderos with rum (No. 3658), using a pound and a half of sugar 
and a gill and a half of raspberry pulp strained through a very fine sieve and two and a half gills of 
rich cream. After removing from the starch and well brushed, dip in a thin royal icing (No. 101) 
slightly tinted with carmine and flavored with a little raspberry juice. 


(3658), TROCADEROS WITH RUM (Trocadéros au Rhum), 


Cook a pound and a half of sugar to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171), adding three gills of cream, and 

let it boil up once only; put in half a gill of rum and cast it at once in starch imprinted with small 

‘ozenge-shaped molds; set the box away in the heater for twelve hours. Now remove the candies 

“one by one from the starch, brush carefully and range them ona grate; dip the candies in a light 
royal icing (No. 101) well flavored with rum. 


(3659), CANDIED VIOLETS (Violettes Pralinées). 


| Select a pound of full-bloom violets; suppress the stalks and throw into cold water to refresh, 
then spread them on a towel to drain. Cook a pound and a quarter of sugar to” small ball” (No. 
171), throw in the violets, remove the pan from the fire at once and stir gently to submerge them. 
Boil this up once and then transfer immediately to a vessel. The following day drain them on A 
sieve, pour the syrup back into acopper pan, adda little more sugar, and cook ayain to ** small ball; 
put in the flowers and transfer once more to the vessel to leave for another twelve hours; after this 
drain off again, pour this syrup back into the pan, boil it once or twice and add 1 he violets, remov- 
ing the pan at once from the fire. Stir the violets lightly in this syrup until it begins to grain, 
then pour the whole on sheets of paper; shake and separate the flowers carefully with the hands, 
and when dry pick them from the granulated sugar, arrange on a grate and leave to get cold. 


ae ee ee ee eee ee ee ee ee ee 





1050 . THE EPICUREAN. 


PRESERVES (Conserves), 


(8660). BRANDY CHERRIES (Cerises & l’Eau de Vie), 


Cook two and a half pounds of sugar to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171); as soon as it reaches this | 


degree take the pan from the fire and add slowly to it one gallon of brandy and a fourth part of a 
vanilla bean; leave this till cold. Cut off half of the cherry stalks, range the fruit in glass bottles 
and cover with the above liquid. Cork the bottles hermetically when the cherries are cold and pu 
away in a cool place. 


(3661), BRANDY FIGS (Figues & l’Eau de Vie), 


Have some white even-sized figs; prick and leave them to soak for twelve hours in salted water. 
Parboil them properly, keeping them firm, then drain and refresh by throwing them into a plentiful 
supply of cold salted water and leave them to steep for two or three days; now put them in a copper 
pan and cover with a hot twenty-two degree syrup so that they macerate for six hours; afterward 
drain off this syrup, add to it more sugar and let cook to twenty-five degrees; when this is cold pour 
it over the figs; repeat this operation unti} the sugar attains thirty degrees. Drain the figs well, 
put them into glass jars and cover with brandy; let macerate for six weeks, then add for every 
quart of brandy two gills of thirty-degree syrup. 


(3662), BRANDY GREENGAGES (Reines Clandes & Eau de Vio). 


Take fine sound greengages; prick over and blanch; have them resume their former green 
color the same as for preserved greengages (No. 3679), and when well refreshed drain again and 
arrange them in glass jars, each one to contain a vanilla bean; cover with good white brandy and 
cork the jars hermetically; leave them thus for fifteen days. After this lapse gf»time drain off 
the brandy and add some sugar to it, allowing three pounds for each gallon of liquid; stir well 
together; when the sugar is dissolved pour it over the fruits; close the jars hermetically and leave 
them in a cool place. 


(8663). BRANDY PEACHES (Péches a l'Eau de Vie). 


Let the peaches be white and sound; rub with a cloth to remove their down, prick the surfaces 
and lay them in cold water; drain this off and place them ina basin, covering with fresh cold water 
into which has been added a small piece of alum; set the basin on the fire and as soon as the liquid. 
begins to heat stir -the fruits about from time to time, and when they float on top of the liquid 
remove and throw them again into cold water. Drain and arrange them in one-quart glass jars, 
having a quarter of a vanilla stick in each, and cover with good white brandy. Olose the bottles. 
hermetically and stand them in a cool place to leave for fifteen days, and then drain off the brandy 
into a basin, add sugar to it, allowing three pounds for each gallon; stir well to melt the sugar, 
then pour this liquor over the peaches; cork the jars so no air whatever can enter and lay aside 
in a cool place. 


(3664), OANNED CHERRIES (Cerises en Boites), 


Suppress the stalks and pips from some fine, very ripe but sound cherries; range them at once 
in tin cans of a quart capacity and cover with a twenty-five degree cold syrup; put on the lids and 


solder tightly. Stand these cans in a large saucepanful of cold water, set it covered on the fire — 


and boil the water for seven minutes, then remove at once from the fire and allow the cans to cool 
off in the liquid. 


(3665), CANNED PEARS (Poires en Boites). 


Select pears that are ripe yet firm (Sickle pears in preference); peel, turning them round, and 
empty with a vegetable scoop to remove all the pips, blanch and refresh. Drain as soon as they 
are properly cooled off and range them in tin cans each of a quart capacity; fill the can nine- 
tenths full with a fifteen-degree cold syrup; cover and solder. Range these cans in a large sauce- 
pan, immerse them in cold water, place on the fire and boil for ten minutes; remove the cans, tap 


a small hole in the center to allow the air to escape, solder it up immediately and boil for five 
minutes longer. 


‘7 








CONFECTIONERY. 1051 


(8666), CANNED PINEAPPLE (Ananas en Boites), 


Pare neatly some fine ripe pineapples; remove the hard centers with a tin tube, then split them, 
lengthwise in two; cut across in quarter-inch thick slices and range these in tin cans of one quart 
capacity each. Fill the cans nine-tenths full with cold twelve-degree syrup; cover and solder, then. 
place them in a large saucepanful of cold water so they are entirely submerged, and covering the pan 
stand on the fire and allow the liquid to boil for fifteen minutes. Remove the cans, punch a small 
hole on top to allow the air to escape and solder immediately; replace the saucepan and allow to 
boil five minutes more. If whole pineapples, merely cored, are used instead of slices they will 
require forty minutes boiling, and if not cored one hour will be found a correct time. 





(8667), CELERY HEARTS, CRYSTALLIZED (Ccours de Céleri Oristallisés), 


Peel the hearts of some small celery stalks; parboil them well in acidulated water, and when: 
very tender drain and wipe on a cloth; range them in a flat dish and cover with a cold twenty- 
five degree syrup. Six hours after drain off this syrup and mix in with it some sugar steeped in: 
_ water and cooked to thirty degrees, adding the juice of one lemon; pour this again over the celery 
hearts and six hours later recommence the operation. When cold dress into a preserve dish with. 
the syrup poured over. 


(3668). APPLE AND ORANGE JELLY (Gelée de Pommes et Gelée d’Oranges), 


Cut two dozen russet apples in slices, lay them in a basin with water to cover; cook tender, 
_ then pour them on a sieve to drain off the juice, collecting it in a bowl; filter this through a flannel. 
bag and put it into the basin again with the same weight of sugar; dissolve thoroughly, mixing: 
together with a skimmer, then set the basin on the fire and cook until the syrup coats the spatula 
and falls down in beads; stir continuously with the skimmer. As soon as the liquid reaches the 
proper degree pour it at once into stone pots or glasses previously heated; leave to cool thoroughly. 
Lay on the jelly a round of paper soaked in brandy, and afterward cover the glasses with strong 
paper or parchment. 

Orange Jelly.—Remove the peel from a few nice oranges, cut it in very thin shreds, blanch. 
them well and then drain. Pare the oranges to the pulp. Prepare some apple jelly, as explained 
above, and when it is nearly cooked add to it the blanched peel and the pared oranges; mix well 
and when cooked pour into small jars or glasses previously heated in boiling water. 


(8669), CHERRY JELLY WITH KIRSCH (Gelée de Cerises au Kirsch), 


Stone three pounds of cherries, pound six ounces of the kernels with one pound of currants. 
and strain it through a sieve. Put the cherries in a copper pan on a slow fire and reduce to 
half, then add three pounds of sugar and one pound of the strained currant and kernel juice, and. 
continue to cook until a drop of it placed on a flat surface will not spread; now put in half a gill 
of kirsch and pour at once into jars to leave in a cool place until thoroughly cold; cover with a 
round of paper dipped in brandy, and close the pots hermetically with their respective covers. 


(3670), CURRANT JELLY AND PLAIN CURRANT JELLY; CRANBERRY JELLY (Gelée de 
Groseille et Gelée de Groseille Simple; Gelée de Canneberges). 


d one pound of powdered sugar; mix both together 
the sugar is dissolved pour the whole into a copper 
for five or six minutes the syrup will have 


Have one pound of currants free of stalks an 
in a vessel without crusting the currants; when 
pan and stand it on the fire; after it has been boiling REE: Pigg ie 
cooked to the proper degree, that is, until it coats the skimmer and drops from it in bee o * 
pour the fruit and syrup on to a sieve laid over a vessel fit to receive the liquid, and aie eee 
jelly glasses; keep slightly warm for two hours, then leave to cool before covering the glasses WIth 
paper. 

Another way is to select the currants when not too ripe; plc 
fruit in a copper pan with three-quarters of their weight of pow? 
melted stand the pan on a slow fire to bring the liquid toa bon shia . 
twice only; skim well, strain through a napkin and pour into jeu y glasses. ‘by eae 

Plain.—Slightly cook ten pounds of currants with their stalks in a popes pan; sip é Vt ee i ‘ 
a sieve having sufficiently fine meshes to prevent the seeds from passing; mix an eq g 


pick off all the stalks and put the 
ered sugar; when this is partly 
hile skimming; boil it once or 


1052 THE EPICUREAN. 





sugar to this juice; cook until it coats the skimmer and drops from it in beads, being careful ta : 
skim during the whoie process of cooking. Fill some heated glasses or jars, and when cold cover 
with a round of paper soaked in brandy, then cover the top of the vessel with strong paper. 


Cranberry Jelly.—Crush about two pounds of very ripe cranberries, dilute with a little water i 
and strain the juice through a jelly bag. Pour this juice into an untinned copper pan and add a 
pound of sugar to each pint of liquid; let it cook on a good fire to the consistency of a jelly, fol- — 
lowing the directions found in No. 3668. As soon as it is finished pour it. into small pots or 
glasses and leave to cool off. When the jelly is perfectly cold cover with round pieces of paper 
dipped in brandy, and cork up the pots or glasses to close them hermetically. 


(3671). CURRANT JELLY AND CURRANT JELLY WITH APPLES (Gelée de Groseille et Glee 


de Groseille aux Pommes), 


Pick some not too ripe red currants from their stalks; lay them in a copper preserving pan __ 
and set this on the fire; as soon as the fruits have dissolved strain the juice forcibly through a 
cloth into a vessel; pour this back into the pan and add one and a half pounds of sugar for each 
quart of juice. When the sugar has all melted place the pan on a hot fire and cook it untilthe 
preparation dropped from the skimmer forms into a jelly, or else if a drop be placed on a flat sur- _ 
face it will retain the shape of a bead and not spread, being careful to stir the liquid continuously ~ 
with a skimmer. As soon as the jelly is cooked pour it into stone pots or heated glasses. In 
order to have it fine and clear no more than two gallons should be cooked at once. 


Currant Jelly with Apples.—Prepare the currant juice as above and add an equal quantity of 
liquid in which apples have been cooked, then finish as for the above, when a currant and apple 
jelly will be obtained. 


(3672), QUINCE JELLY (Gelée de Ooings), 


Choose well-ripened, good, sound quinces; peel, cut in four, and immerse them in a basin of 
water. Cover the basin, place it on the fire, and cook the quinces thoroughly, then pour them on 
a sieve to drain off the jnice, collecting it ina bowl. Filter this juice through a flannel bag, return 
it to the bowl, add the same weight of sugar, cook and finish the same as apple jelly. 


(3673), CLEAR GRAPE JUICE AND STRAWBERRY JUICE (us de Raisin Clair et Jus de Fraises), 


Gather the grapes when quite ripe, place them in a vessel and pound without mashing them 
too much, to extricate as little coloring matter as possible. Pour the whole into a thick flannel 
bag to filter the juice, letting it fall into a porcelain or glass receptacle. Commence the operation 
again, and continue to filter the juice through the bag until it flows out quite clear. After all the 
juice has been filtered pour it into small strong bottles (small champagne bottles), and cork with 
sound corks, driving them in with a mallet; tie the corks down with strings attached to the necks 
of the bottles, then stand them upright, Siehely apart, in a deep saucepan or soup pot, and cover to” 
the height of the bottles with cold water. Place the pot on a moderate fire, boil for ten to twelve 
minutes, remove and leave the bottles cool in the water, only taking them out when thoroughly 
cold. Cut the strings and lay the bottles down flat, keeping them in a very cool place. 

Crush some very ripe strawberries and press them on a wire sieve sufficiently fine not to permit 
the seeds to pass through. With this juice fill some one-quart bottles, close well, tying the corks 
on with a string. Range these bottles in a saucepan, cover with cold water and stand it 6n the 
range. Watch the time when the water begins to boil and leave them in for only half an hour, 
then take the saucepan at once from the fire and leave the bottles cool off thoroughly in the liquid. 
When cold lift them out, wipe dry, cut the strings and lay them down, piling one on top of the 
other in a cool, dry place, inclining the bottles a little forward so that the sui rests against the 
cork. 


(3674), APPLE MARMALADE OR JAM (Marmelade de Pommes), 


Quarter some apples, core and cut up small; put them into a basin with the juice of several 
lemons and a little water; cook. As soon as done pour on a sieve to drain, pressing them through 
afterward. Add to this pulp three-quarters of its weight of lump sugar, and stir well together. 
Pour it all into a tinned copper pan and stand it on the fire to cook the marmalade until it 
coats the spatula and drops from itin beads; stir continuously with a spatula. As soon as itis done 
pour into stone pots that have.been previously heated. 


a 






CONFECTIONERY. 1053 


(8675). APRICOT OR PEACH MARMALADE OR JAM (Marmelade d’Abricots ou Marmelade 
de Péches), 


Split some very ripe apricots or peaches in two, suppress the kernels, mince and put them into 
a copper pan with a few spoonfuls of water. Melt over the fire, stirring constantly with a spatula 
then strain the pulp through a sieve and weigh it. Cook three-quarters of its weight of ae to 
“small crack ” (No. 171); when it has attained this degree remove from the fire and pour the pulp 
intoit, stirring vigorously; continue to cook until it coats the skimmer and the jelly drops in vehda: 
then transfer immediately to stone pots or glasses heated beforehand. The jam must be quite eld 
before covering it over; keep in a cool, dry place. 


Apple, Apricot, Peach, Quince and Chestnut Paste.—Prepare a purée of apples, apricots 
peaches, quinces or chestnuts; add to either one of these three-quarters of a pound of sugar cooked 
to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171); reduce until the preparation detaches itself from the pan; ecan this 
about one-eighth of an inch thick on sheets of tin or it may be pushed through a cornet in rounds. 
Put in a hot closet for two days, remove from the tins and when cut roll in coarse powdered sugar. 


(3676), FIG AND ORANGE MARMALADE OR JAM (Marmelade de Figues et d’Oranges), 


Select large white, ripe, but very firm figs; remove the skins and cut up the fruits; weigh, and 
for each pound allow seven ounces of sugar dissolved in a little water. Boil this up once or twice, 
put in the figs and cook until the marmalade coats the skimmer and drops from it in beads, then 
pour into glass jars previously heated. 


Orange Marmalade.—Choose some not too ripe oranges, remove their zests with the knife 


shown in Fig. 156, prick them with a coarse needle and put them ina pan with boiling water; 


cover them over to cook until the remaining skin becomes softened, then place in an abundance of 
cold water for twenty-four hours. Drain, open them, suppress the seeds, and pass the orange and 
peel through a sieve. Cook the same weight of sugar to ‘‘ ball” (No. 171) as there is orange, mix 
both together and cook until the marmalade falls from the skimmer in a sheet. 


(3677), MELON MARMALADE OB JAM (Marmelade de Melon), 


Suppress all the rind and seeds from the fruit and rub this through a sieve. If very sweet 
a quarter of a pound of sugar will suffice for each pound of pulp; reduce the marmalade in a cop- 
per pan until it covers the skimmer and drops from it in beads, then pour it into glasses. 


(8678), LARGE WHITE CURRANTS, BAR-LE-DUC JELLY (Confiture de Groseilles de Bar-le-Duc). 

Have one pound of large picked white currants and a pound of loaf sugar; seed the fruits, 
using a pointed goose quill, and lay them in a vessel. Put half a pouud of the sugar into a sugar 
pan with two gills of water, let it soak, then cook it to ‘* bead” (No. 171); mix in the berries, leaving 


their juice in the vessel, and place the pan on the side of the range; five minutes later pour both 


fruits and liquid into a bowl, and three hours after lay a small sieve over the sugar pan and pour the 


fruits and syrup into this. Mix with the syrup half of the remaining sugar, and let it melt 


thoroughly, then cook it untilit coats the skimmer and drops from it in beads; return the cur- 
rants to the syrup; give them a single boil and return the whole to the bowl. Four hours 
after strain the syrup into the pan again, put the rest of the sugar with it and cook once more 
until it coats the skimmer; now add the currants and boil the whole up once. Set the pan 


back on the range for five minutes, but so that the syrup does not boil. Pour the jam into small 


jelly glasses; let get very cold before closing with paper. A few spoonfuls of clear apple juice can. 
be added if necessary to give more consistency to the preserve. 


(3679), PRESERVED GREENGAGES (Reines-Claude Confites). 

greengages, prick the surfaces with a large pin 
lding ten gallons three- 
- and three handfuls of 


Take twenty pounds of very green and sound 
and throw into a panful of cold water. Fill an untinned copper pan ho 
quarters full of water; add a heavy handful of salt, three gills of vinegat | 
spinach; stir the liquid so all the ingredients are properly mingled; drain the gages from their water 
and throw them into the copper pan; stand it on the fire. After the water begins to heat stir the 
fruits around carefully with a skimmer, and as soon as they float on the surface take them out and 
throw into a panful of cold water; place under a faucet and allow the water to flow over them 
Prepare a twelve-degree syrup; drain the greengages properly and throw them into this, then es 
boil up once, pouring them afterward into shallow vessels to leave for twelve hours. Drain off the 


1054 THE EPICUREAN. 


syrup, add a little sugar, and boil it again several times until it attains fourteen degrees, then 


throw it over the fruits and let stand again for twelve hours. Continue this operation daily until 
the syrup reaches thirty degrees; for the last time drain off the syrup once more, and boil it to 
thirty-two degrees; then put in the fruits, boil up once and transfer the whole to jars; close her- 
metically as soon as cold and keep in a cool, dry place. 


(3680), PRESERVED LIMES (Limons Confits), 


Remove the cores from the limes with a quarter-inch tin tube and leave them to soak in a 
pailful of water, adding a heavy handful of salt; let them remain four hours in this, then drain 
and throw them into a large basin of boiling water to blanch. As soon as soft take them up 
‘one by one and put into a pailful of cold water to refresh, changing it at frequent intervals. To 
have them turn green again, put ten quarts of water in an untinned copper pan, add two 
heaping handfuls of kitchen salt, half a pint of vinegar and a few handfuls of spinach; stand 
this vessel on the fire and boil for a few moments; drain the limes from their water and throw them 
‘into this while still in the act of boiling, allowing them to boil up several times. Take the basin 
from the fire and leave the fruits therein for three or four hours; they should now have assumed 
their natural color. Drain and plunge them into a pailful of cold water for twelve hours, changing 
it frequently during this time. Prepare a fifteen-degree syrup. As soon as it boils drain the limes 
and throw them into this, boil up once, then transfer the whole to vessels and leave in a cool place 
for twelve hours. The following day pour off the svrup and cook it to sixteen degrees, throw it 
once more over the fruits, leaving it for twelve hours; drain the syrup again, boil until it reaches 
twenty degrees, then pour it over the limes and leave for twelve hours longer, repeating the pro- 
cess every twelve hours until the syrup reaches thirty-two degrees, then pour it back into the basin 
and as soon as it begins to boil throw in the limes and boil up once. Transfer them immediately 
to their respective stone jars, cool and close hermetically. 


(3681), PRESERVED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL (Ecorces d’Oranges re de Citrons Confites), 


Cut some oranges or lemons in four, remove the pulp and put the peels in a basin with water; 
blanch thoroughly. When they are soft to the touch take from the fire, drain and put them in a 
panful of cold water; leave to soak for twenty-four hours, changing the liquid from time to time, 
or, if possible, stand the pan under the faucet and let the water run over continuously, then drain. 
Range the peels in a vessel, cover with a boiling syrup at fifteen degrees and leave them in for 
twelve hours; at the expiration of that time drain off the syrup, boil it up to eighteen degrees, 
then pour it again over the peels, leaving them steep for ten or twelve hours. Repeat this opera- 
tion six or seven times, gradually increasing the strength of the syrup until it reaches thirty-two 
degrees. The last time prepare a fresh thirty-two degree syrup. Drain the fruits from the syrup 
they are in and put them into this fresh one that is in the act of boiling; boil up once; remove 
from the fire and lay them in stone pots, covering with this last syrup; close hermetically when 
quite cold. 


(8682). WHOLE PEACHES, PRESERVED—LARGE (Grosses Péches Entiéres Confites), 


The Brothers Carresa, of Nice, France. prepare boxes, of preserved peaches, each one containing 
only four, but of extraordinary size; in the boxes are also leaves, blanched with acid; they can be 
arranged so exquisitely that they easily pass for fine fresh ones. Drain off the peaches one by one, 
wipe dry on a fine cloth, then tint their surfaces with powdered carmine dissolved in water and 
‘pounded with the finger. This first layer should only be slightly tinted, then begin again on each 
‘side of the parting division, spreading the color over well with the finger so as to represent the 
bright shades of a fresh peach. As soon as they are tinted place them on a dish and cover entirely 
with clear jelly, applying it with a brush. First dress three of these peaches in a preserve dish 
and lay the fourth one on top of the under triangle; surround with a few peach leaves and pour 
some thick syrup into the bottom of the dish, being careful not to spill any over the peaches. 


(8683), CANDIED AND ORYSTALLIZED FRUITS (Fruits Confits Glacés et Cristallisés), 


Apricots, green almonds, greengages, mirabelles, cherries, and in fact all preserved fruits, 
must first be washed in hot water to remove the sugar adhering to them, then drain and leave 
to dry properly. After these fruits are very dry arrange them in a single layer, one beside the 
other, in a candy pan having a grate on the bottom; when this first grate is full lay another one 
on top and fill it the same as the other, and continue thus until they reach to slightly below the 





a) Ge Sane 









~ 
i 
— 
e 


CONFECTIONERY. 1055 


_ edges of the candy pan. Cover the last layer of fruits with another grate, and on it lay a weight 


to keep the fruits submerged in the syrup. Now cook a sufficient quantity of sugar to thirty four 
degrees to cover the whole of the fruit and pour it over as soon as done; put thie fruits in a hot 
closet and leave without disturbing for twelve hours; at the end of that time drain the fruits from 
this syrup, lay them on dry grates and leave till very dry. A good way to judge of the thickness 
of the layers of candy is to put small pieces of wood reaching above the edges of the candy pan 
into the corners at the same time as the fruits. After a few hours take out one of these pieces of 


wood, drain it well and see whether it be covered with a sufficiently thick layer of candy; if the 


layer attached to this piece of wood be the desired thickness then certainly the fruit should be 


covered the same, and if not thick enough then leave the fruits in the closet for a longer time. 


After the lapse of a short time draw out another one of the sticks and observe it the same as the 
first, and continue this operation until the candy be.of the desired thickness; then drain off the 
fruits and dry them the same as described above. 

Preserved Pears.—Choose fine, sound Sickle pears in preference to others; peel them round, 
suppress the cores with a small vegetable spoon, and lay them at once in cold water; drain from 
this and blanch, taking them out one by one as soon as they rise on the surface of the boiling 
liquid and throw them into a panful of cold water to refresh. Drain immediately; put them into 
a boiling syrup at twelve degrees, leave in a cool place for twelve hours; drain the syrup, adding 
little sugar to bring to fourteen degrees, pour it over the pears, and the next day draw this off, add 
a little sugar to bring the syrup to sixteen degrees, and continue the process daily, each time augment- 
ing the syrup two degrees until it has reached thirty degrees; now drain off this syrup from the 
pears, boil it up by itself once or twice, and when it attains thirty-two degrees put in the fruit; 
give it one more boil and transfer the whole to jars to cool. As soon as cold close hermetically 
and leave in a cool, dry place. 

Preserved Fruits Coated with Grained Sugar.—To coat preserved fruits with grained sugar - 
proceed the same as for fruits with candy. Cook some sugar to ‘‘ thread” (No. 171), take from the 
fire and with a wooden spoon spread a layer on the sides of the pan in which it has been cooked 
and rub it on for a few seconds with the spoon. As soon as this rubbed sugar begins to whiten 
mix it with the remainder of the sugar, then dip in the fruits, using a fork, and range them at onee 
on a grate, leaving them till the sugar be dry. 

Preserved and Fresh Fruits Coated with Caramel.-—For preserved fruits that have to be 
coated with caramel, proceed first by washing them in hot water, drain and cut them into halves 
or quarters, or leave whole, according to necessity and to the nature of the fruits, then stick them 
on wires pierced into a cork and leave them to dry. When ready, cook some sugar to ‘‘ large 
erack ” (No. 171), or three hundred and forty degrees. As soon as it has attained this heat take 
it at once from the fire and dip in the fruits, then lay them on a marble to drain and cool; when 
nearly cold pull out the wires. 

For Quartered Oranges.—Peel and separate in sections, leave to dry, then dip them in the 
sugar, using a pair of pastry pincers, and then lay them one by one on a slightly greased marble. 


For Grapes.—Take them off their stalks and dip them the same way as the oranges. These 
fruits are used for decorating pyramids and for cases of iced fruits. 


(3684), PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (Ananas Oonfits). 

Pare some very ripe pineapples to the pulp, suppress the cores with a tin tube and cut 
them up into quarter-inch thick crosswise slices; throw them immediately into a panful of cold 
water, drain and put them into a basin of boiling water to blanch, refreshing afterward in a pan- 
ful of cold water. Prepare a twelve-degree syrup, add to it the well-drained pineapple and_ boil 


up once. Now transfer to vessels to leave stand for twelve hours. At the end of this time drain 
off the syrup and pour it into a copper pan. Add a little sugar, boil to bring it to fourteen 
degrees, then add the pineapple; twelve hours later boil the syrup a little more, until it 
reaches sixteen degrees; pour it over the fruit and continue this same process until the:s} rup is at 
thirty degrees; when this takes place boil up several times, throw in the sliced pineapple and leave 


‘ 7 sald elase hermetically and kee 
them for a few moments, then transfer the whole to jars; hen cold close hermetically and keep in 


a cool, dry place. 


(3685), PRESERVED QUINOES (oings Confits) 
Quarter some good, sound quinces; peel, core and throw them at once into cold water, then 


plunge them into boiling water and boil until they become quite tender. Refresh, drain and range 


1056 THE EPICUREAN. 


/ *» 





them in wide, shallow vessels; cover with boiling syrup at fifteen degrees and keep them in a cool 
place for twenty to twenty-four hours; drain off the syrup, add a little sugar, boil up and let it 
attain two degrees more; continue the same process until it reaches thirty degrees; then drain the — 
syrup again, add a little more sugar and boil until it reaches thirty-two degrees, then put in the — 
fruits and boil up once. Pour into stone jars and when cold close hermetically. 


(3686), STEWED APPLES WITH JELLY (Compote de Pommes & la Gelée), 


Peel some fine medium-sized apples; suppress the cores with a tin tube, rub the surfaces with 
half a lemon and cook in a twelve-degree acidulated syrup, being careful to keep them whole. As 
soon as done drain and range in atureen, cover with fresh syrup at thirty-two degrees, leaving to 
cool in this; keep the syrup they were cooked in for further use. Drain the apples from their 
syrup and dress on a compote dish; filter the syrup kept aside, add a little sugar to it and cook it 
to the consistency of a jelly (see apple jelly, No. 3668); leave this stand for one moment on the 
corner of the range, then pour it over the apples; serve when cold. 


(3687), STEWED BANANAS (Compote de Bananes), 


Skin some sound bananas; suppress the coarse threads and throw them immediately into boil- 
ing water; drain at once, then transfer them to a hot twenty-eight degree syrup; leave to cool in 
this. Drain once more, range them pyramidically in a compote dish and cover with their own 
syrup; they are now ready. | 


(3688), STEWED CHERRIES (Compote de Cerises), 


Cut the stalks halfway up from a pound of fine, large, sour cherries. Boil a light syrup in a 
sugar pan, just having sufficient to cover the fruit, then throw in the cherries; toss them for two 
minutes, boiling the liquid up once only, then pour the whole into a bowl to leave till cold. Lay 
both syrup and fruits on a sieve placed on top of the sugar pan and take away some of the fallen 
syrup, pouring sufficient sugar into the remainder that when boiled again it forms a thick syrup; as. 
this becomes almost cold add the cherries to it, take from the fire and half an hour later dress. 
the stewed fruit. 


(3689), STEWED CHESTNUTS (Compote de Marrons), 


Suppress the shells from two pounds of fresh chestnuts without breaking the meats; soak them 
for seven or eight hours in cold water with a little citric acid added. Drain and place in a recently 
tinned saucepan with plenty of water, having a bag containing bran. At the first boil remove the 
pan to the side of the fire so that the liquid only quivers for two hours, being careful to replace 
at times a part of the black water by a little clean boiling water, so as to keep the chestnuts. 
as white as possible. When tender but yet whole, drain off a few at a time to peel without get- 
ting cold, then put them at once into another saucepan with tepid syrup cooked to twelve degrees. 
and half a stick of split vanilla; use only the whole chestnuts. Cover the saucepan and keep it on 
one side of the range to have the liquid hot without boiling, and two hours after drain off half the 
syrup, replacing it by a stronger hot one of thirty degrees; keep the chestnuts in this for one hour 
on the side of the fire. Drain them again delicately one by one to dress on a compote dish; strain. 
the syrup, reduce it to twenty-eight degrees, and when cold pour it over the chestnuts. 


ee ee ee ee 


—_ 


Y=? ee oo 


(3690), STEWED ORANGES AND ORANGE SALADS (Compote d’Oranges et Salade d’Orange). 


Cut each of four or five good oranges into six parts; pare them to the pulp, suppressing the 
peels and white skin, then extract the seeds. Put the oranges into a bowl and pour over a few 
spoonfuls of thirty-degree cold syrup flavored with orange peel and a little kirsch; half an hour 
after dress the fruits with the syrup poured over. ; 


Orange Salad.—Select sweet, juiey oranges, peel them to the pulp, cut in crosswise slices, and 
range them in a circle in a dish; bestrew with sugar and pour rum over. 


Orange and Apple Salad.—Peel some fine, sound apples, core and cut them up into thin slices, 
dress them in a circle on a dish with slices of orange between each piece of apple, throw powdered 
sugar over, and pour on some kirsch and rum. 


4 


CONFECTIONERY. 10 





(3691). STEWED PEACHES OR APRICOTS (Compote de Péches ou d’Abricots), 


Select very fine, sound, ripe peaches or apricots, cut them in two, peel and lay them in a 
_ twenty-eight degree boiling syrup; leave to quiver for a few moments on the side of the range 
__ remove from the fire and put them into a tureen, leaving to cool in their own syrup; drain and 
_ dress on a compote dish, pouring the syrup over. 


(3692), STEWED PEARS (Compote de Poires), 


_ Cut some fine ripe pears in two or four, but if small keep whole; throw them into a saucepan 

containing cold water; blanch in hot water acidulated with the juice of a lemon; drain, range in @ 
_ vessel, and cover with a boiling twenty-eight degree syrup; leave them in this until cold, then 
drain, dress and pour over the syrup after reducing it. 


- - (3693), STEWED PINEAPPLE (Compote d’Ananas), 


2 Pare neatly a fine pineapple; remove the core with a tin tube; split lengthwise in two, and 
_ cut each half in crosswise slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick. Arrange these in a vessel, and 
pour over some boiling thirty-two degree syrup, leaving them to marinate for two hours, then dress 
# in a circle on a compote dish and cover with their own syrup. 
' 


(3694), STEWED PRUNES (Compote de Pruneaux), 


_ Put a pound of fine dried prunes in a saucepan; cover with water; place on the range to boil 
up a few times so they can soften, then drain and cover with a twenty-eight degree syrup, adding 
two or three slices of lemon, a small piece of cinnamon anda quarter of a bottleful of red wine. 
Place the saucepan on the fire and let the whole boil slowly until the prunes are done, then leave 
stand till cold and serve on a compote dish. 


(3695), STEWED STRAWBERRIES AND RASPBERRIES AND STRAWBERRY AND RASP- 
BERRY JAM (Compote de Fraises et de Framboises et Marmelade de Fraises et de 
Framboises), 

Pick some fine not too ripe strawberries or raspberries; cook some syrup to ‘‘ball,” throw in 
the berries and pour the whole at once carefully into a vessel to leave till cold. Drain and arrange 
on a compote dish; pour part of the syrup over and serve. 


Strawberry and Raspberry Jam.—Choose two pounds cf sound, ripe strawberries or rasp- 
berries, remove the stalks and leaves. Either crush or pass them through a sieve. Have an un- 
tinned copper basin (Fig. 140), place the berries in it, reduce to half, remove the basin from the 
fire, then add a pound and a half of sugar cooked to ‘‘small crack” (No. 171). Put on the fire 
again, then stir continually until reduced sufficiently to see the bottom of the basin; now pour it im 
glasses or jars which have been heated; when the jam is cold cover with small rounds of paper, 
dipped in brandy, and close the jars or glasses hermetically and keep in a cool, dry place. 


? 


1058 THE EPICUREAN. 





















SALTED ALMONDS, CHEESES AND FRESH FRUITS (Atandes Sal 
Fromages et Fruits Frais), 3 


(8696), SALTED ALMONDS (Amandes Salées), 


Hazel-nuts, walnuts, and pistachios can also be salted; these are generally dressed in er 
paper cases or small fancy boxes; they are passed around with the desert, or at the same tim 
the hors-d’ceuvre, and then left on the table during the entire length of the cinta It 

improvement to mix these nuts and serve them together. oe 


(3697), CHEESES (Fromages), 


American, Brie, Camembert, Chester or Brighton, Cream, Briquebec, Eidam, Gorgonzaat : 
Swiss or Gruyére, Holland, Munster, Mont-d’Or, Neufchatel, Parmesan, Pont Leveque, Port cali 
Roquefort, Stilton, Strachino, Shedder, Gervais. | 

Cheese is served either after the roast, before the sweet entremets, or else with thay 
dessert; the first is most appropriate. Cheese must be accompanied by crackers or very thin slices i 
of toast; it should be eut in pieces or slices. Ata dinner it is better to have two kinds handed to — 
the guests, with fresh butter; serve salted almonds and nuts at the same time. Stilton must be 
served whole wrapped in a plaited napkin: it should be scooped out with a cheese spoon and 
time it is used the vacuum should be filled with sherry wine; it must always be kept sufficien 
damp to prevent cracking. Chester should be served the same as Stilton in a plaited napkin, a 
paring it neatly; it should also be cut with a spoon and filled each time with good Madeira wit 
For Brie, Camembert, Mont-d’Or or Pont Leveque: scrape any of these cheeses and serve with 
silver knife for each guest. For Roquefort and Gorgonzola carefully suppress the outer rinds 
serve with silver knives; pass around at the sametime some fresh butter. Strachino and Milla 
are serve in a plaited napkin folded to resemble a tulip; scoop out with a cheese spoon the s: 
as Stilton. Holland cheese should be cut in quarters or slices. Neufchatel should be sera 
and served whole. Swiss cheese, Eidam, Munster, Port Salutand Briquebee are cut in sli 
They must be chosen very mellow, cleaned and served with silver knives. Gervais isa sort of fresh 
bondon, the paste being very fine; it must be served quite cold. It should be covered with papel 
to be removed when sending to the table. * 


(3698), CREAM CHEESE (Fromage 4 la Créme), 


Put two quarts of milk into a vessel and keep it in a cool place until it curdles, then pour tl thi 
curdled milk on a hair sieve to drain, and pass it through the same sieve, standing over a 
deep vessel; add to it a little salt and half as much firmly beaten, unsweetened whipped crea 
Take some heart-shaped tin molds, perforated with small holes, each mold one inch deep 
three and a half inches long; line them with pieces of muslin and fill with the above; place thes 
the ice-box for two hours. When ready to serve invert on a plate, lift off the muslin and s se 
accompanied by some thick and very cold cream. 


(8699), FRESH FRUITS (Fruits Frais), 


Choose ripe fruits; arrange them either in baskets, fruit stands or plates garnished with green 
grape leaves and fresh moss. The base must be solid so that when carried they will not be dis- 
lodged; place the handsome part of the fruit on the outer side. Early fruits are always appre- 
ciated as they foretell those that are to follow in their season. Fruits for dressing are apricots, 
pineapples, pears, peaches, oranges, lady apples, grapes, cherries and strawberries. In caseno 
fresh green leaves are procurable, use artificial ones made of muslin and dipped in wax. Ifa pine- 
apple is to be arranged in the center of a basket, stand it on a cardboard cylinder four inches high 
by three inches in diameter. _All fruits to be found in New York are designated on the table for 
the different seasons (see page 17). Dry fruits consist of almonds, raisins, figs, dates, and innume2- 
able others. | 










sis CONFECTIONERY. 2059 


| - eas COFFEES, RACAHOUT, TEAS, ETC, (Chocolat, Cafés, Racahout, 


oo Thés, Etc. | 


ae | (3700), CHOCOLATE (Chocolat), 

ie Have good, fine vanilla chocolate; dissolve it in a tin saucepan, or 
better still in a chocolate pan as shown in figure, using the oe to 
—— —— dissolve it, over a slow fire, using a pound 
== Of chocolate for a quart of water. When 
well dissolved strain it through a fine 
wire sieve and serve in a chocolate pot i 
Bt i with a jug of hot water, and one of milk Fia. 761, 
and sugar. Some persons prefer whipped cream in their chocolate. Serve at the same time 
brioches, grissinis, biscuits and other fancy breads. 











































(8701), HOW TO MAKE OOFFEE (Maniére de Faire le Café), 


The best-known coffee-pot is the one with a filter, of which a design is shown (Fig. 762). They 
are to be had of various sizes and more or less luxurious. To obtain a 
limpid infusion quickly place the ground coffee in the cylinder on top of 
the coffee-pot, then put in the strainer on top of the coffee, press it 
down and pour boiling water over so that the infusion runs slowly 
down into the pot. While the infusion filters the coffee-pot should 
be kept in a vessel containing hot water to the 
depth of two fingers so that the infusion attains 
the same degree of heat without allowing it to 
boil. For the sake of economy, after the infusion 
is made, the grounds can be boiled up once more 
and an infusion prepared with it to take the 
place of plain water, but, in order to obtain a 
good result, the grounds must first settle, then 
the water be poured off, strained and heated to 
- boiling point. In this way less coffee can be used 
without deteriorating from its excellence. Use 
= one and a half pounds of Java coffee, a pound 
- and a half of Maracaibo, one pound of Mocha and seven gallons of water. The best way to obtain 
-_ good coffee is to make it only when required; the maxim should be ‘‘ little and often.” It takes 
three kinds of coffee to obtain a good result; for instance, Mocha for the aroma, having it only 
-# slightly roasted, Maracaibo for the color, which should be well roasted, and Java for the strength, 
roasted to a degree between the other two. 


(8702), TURKISH COFFEE (Café & la Turque). 


To be made with the same proportion of Java as Mocha, ground and passed through a very fine 
sieve. Put ordinary black coffee in a coffee- 
_ pot, as many cups as needed, and add for each 
cup a common coffeespoonful of coffee passed 
through a sieve, also a lump of sugar; stand it 
on the fire or gas stove, boil for two minutes, 
then take it off and pour in a little cold water 
to settle the coffee; let stand again for a few 
minutes. Serve powdered sugar with the 
coffee. 



















































































































































































Fie. 762. 























Fic. 764. Fia, 765. 


(3703), ARABIAN RACAHOUT (Racahout des 
| Arabes), 
Put a pint of milk into either a silver or tin saucepan. 
racahout, then four or five spoonfuls of cold milk; dissolve 
milk; let cook for four or five minutes, stirring all the while, swe 
also be prepared with water instead of milk. 


Place in a bowl two level spoonfuls of 
the racahout and pour it into the boiling 
eten to taste and serve. It can 


1060 THE EPICUREAN. 











| (8704), TEA (Thé), 7 
Black Tea for Sixty four Cups.—One pound of black tea and four gallons of water. 


Green Tea for Forty-eight Cups.—One pound of Oolong and green tea for three gallons of 
water. 

Black Tea.—Put one ounce of black tea into a teapot; moisten it with two gills of boiling water 
to infuse and open the leaves and leave it thus for ten minutes, then add eight gills of boiling water, 
A few moments later stir with a teaspoon and let stand. Serve at the same time, sugar, cream, — - 
toast or cakes. Never allow utensils for tea-making to be used for any other purpose. The teapot Ee 
should always be plunged in hot water before making the tea. 


ce 


For Green and Oolong.—Use an ounce and a half AAG of an ounce and prepare it with the 
same quantity of water. “a 
Serve the tea on a tray covered with a cloth, accompanied by a sugar bowl, suger tongs, tea- 
spoons, cups and saucers, a pot of cream, boiling water, a teapot with a strainer, toast, fancy rolls, a 


muffins, etc. For a party use the same preparation, only having the tea poured into cups. 


Russian Tea for Twelve Cups, Samovar.—The samoyar is a brass or silver-plated urn wail 
a cylinder in the center, with a grating at the bottom. ‘Lay some paper in the cylinder, over place — 
small splints of wood, and on these some charcoal. Light it from underneath and on the cylinder 
arrange a pipe that is then connected to the outside or the chimney. Fill the urn with water, 
between the cylinder and the outside; this part of the samovar is provided witha faucet. Assoon 
as the water boils put the samovar on the table on a silver or brass salver. A crown is fastened — 
to the center cylinder to infuse the tea and keep it hot. Put in twelve teaspoonfuls of the very 
best Oolong, Formosa or any other preferred brand of tea. Pour over three teacupfuls of boiling 
water and allow it to draw fer five minutes, keeping it hermetically closed and very hot, then add 
nine more cupfuls of boiling water, and even more should the tea be too strong. Gentlemen are 
seldom present at afternoon teas. Serve the tea in cups, but for the evening (eight o'clock), tea is 
then poured into glasses for the gentlemen guests. These glasses are plain, four inches high, three 
inches wide on top and two inches at the bottom; they are to be placed in silver or silvered glass 
holders, having handles; the ladies’ tea is served in cups. Cream must be handed around at the a 
same time, also very thin slices of lemon in crystal dishes, accompanied by small silver forks. 
Strawberry or raspberry jam, rose or currant jelly flavored with vanilla, according to taste, verfom 
thin slices of buttered bread, dry sweet tea cakes and sugar broken into pieces the size of a cunTates 
may also be served with the tea. 





WINES (Vins). 





(3705), WINES AND CARE OF WINES (Le Vin et les Soins qu'il Demande), 

_- Grimod de la Reyniere has said that ‘‘ No one ages at table;” he mi Pitchve Radel vehes 
the dinner is good and the wines are of the finest. Wine is the intellectual part of the meal and is 
eee Proper temperature in the order of the service, as will be explained further on. 


_ However, this is not an absolute rule; preference should be given to such and such a wine accord- 


ing to one’s taste and according also to the influence it bears on one’s health. This last aed 
easier to define for there can be no rule given regarding taste, as each individual sensation is apt 
to differ. ‘Some prefer the keen savor of Bordeaux, others the delicate aroma of champagne; this 
one the warmth of the wines from Languedoc; another the exciting flavor of Burgundy. Tastes 
for some reason or other, are formed on temperament; nature indicates and inspires in its ary 
best way the proper method to follow for the good of our health. Sanguine temperaments feel the 


» want of a light wine, such as champagne and Rhine wines; the phlegmatically inclined love the 


warmth of spirits, and the wines from Languedoc and Frontignon; gloomy dispositions crave 
for sweet Spanish, Italian, Roussillon and Burgundy wines; and those of a bilious nature, absorbed 
iby the contention of their daily physical pain, require a stimulating wine such as Bordeaux. 
Bordeaux wine is generous, stomachic, easily digested, leaves the mouth clear and the head free, 
even when liberally drank. This wine can be transported to a great distance. Burgundy wine is 
aphrodaisical; it is extremely delicate and of a delightful aroma. Champagne wines are heady; 
they are limpid, light, odorous and unctuous. When champagne is frozen its effect is entirely 
changed; the temperature of the ice increases its tonic power and better contributes to the act of 
digestion, it condenses on the stomach and prevents the largest proportion from stimulating and 
rising to the brain. Frequently dinner parties are given when champagne alone isserved. Cham- 
pagne is not a natural wine, for on its preparation depends the superior qualities it is required to 
possess. Rhine wines are liked for the delightful mellowness of their flavor. They can support 
very long journeys, which instead of deteriorating only increases their value. 


, The Cellar.—Be very careful that the cellar is not exposed to sudden vibrations or shocks, or 
they will cause the lightest part of the dregs to arise, and when this mingles with the wine it pro- 
duces sourness; also avoid placing any green wood in the cellar when the sap is ascending, or any 
vegetables, for these produce fermentation, impair the quality of the wine and prevent its pres- 
eryation. Cellars should be kept very clean and at a temperature of 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, 
without any thorough draught. In the warmest part of the cellar place the Bordeaux, and the 
Burgundy in the coldest. 


Placing the Casks in the Cellar.—Before a cask of wine is placed in the cellar it should be 
thoroughly examined to see whether it be in good condition and the hoops perfectly solid. Stand 
the casks on wooden joists six to eight inches square, placed on bricks high enough so that a bot- 
tle can be set under the faucet; when in this position wedge each one separately with blocks of 
wood and be careful not to move or disturb the casks. When wines are required to be left in their 
barrels they should be placed sufficiently far apart to allow a free circulation between. Should 
the wines be of the present year the cask should be bored near the bung and the hole closed by a 
small plug removed from time to time so that the fermentation can beknown. If, when the plugis 
taken out, the air comes whistling forth, then fermentation still exists; in this case remove the 
plug daily and at less frequent intervals as fermentation diminishes. Casks should always be 
refilled as quickly as they are emptied. Light wines spoil easily if their casks are not kept con- 
stantly full. The drier and more airy is the cellar the faster the barrels must be refilled. This 
should be done every month, and the wine used for refilling should be of 


as that already contained therein; this alone will prevent it from deteriorating. 
(1061) 


exactly the same quality 


1062 | THE EPICUREAN. 


(3706), BOTTLING WINES (La Mise en Bouteilles), 


The faucet should be partly opened to allow sufficient time for corking the bottles that have 
been removed. The corks should be selected perfectly sound, especially if to be kept for a long 
while. Dip them first in lukewarm water and force them into the bottle with a mallet or a special 
machine, then cut them off leaving an eighth of an inch above the bottle. Wines are bottled to 
have them attain the ripeness to which they are susceptible and to be able to keep them in a better 
condition; generally it requires two years before bottling red wines; only do so when they are found 
to be of a proper degree and ripeness, neither too sweet nor too sour, but of a perfect and pure flavor. 
White wine can be bottled earlier than red—one year to eighteen months, after it has lost its sweet 


taste. The clearness of a wine being one of its most essential points, an effort should be made to ~ 


obtain this result; if not of a perfect limpidity, then wait a few days longer, and if not then clear it 
must be drawn off and transferred to another very clean cask, and clarified over again. Bottles 
must be rinsed carefully with lead shot or small pebbles. Bottle the wine on a clear, cold day; 
avoid stormy weather, and if possible select a day when the wind blows from the northeast. Bore 
the cask with a gimlet at an inch and a half from the inside border and stop as soon as the wine 
appears, then push in the opened faucet and strike it’ in such a way as not to disturb the dregs. 
The spigot must be left sufficiently open to allow enough time for filling the bottles while the corks 
are being put in. If required for keeping, then cover the cork and about an inch and a half of the 
neck of the bottle with some prepared wax, by dipping it in the heated wax and rotating the bottle 


until the adhering wax is cold; this coating keeps the corks from molding and from being eaten — 


up by insects. To make this wax melt a pound of common rosin with two ounces of yellow wax 
and half anounce of mutton tallow; color it with animal black, ochre, ete.; if too brittle add more 
tallow, and if the opposite, then more rosin. The bottles are to be stacked slightly inclined so that. 
the wine can touch the cork at all times. The above is an abridged direction on preparing and 
bottling wines. The utensils needed are: one large funnel, two measures of three gallons each, a 
faucet for drawing off the wine and one other one, a mallet to push in the corks, a beater for the 
bung-hole in the cask, a pump and a felt filter, or round paper filters, for filtering the wine from 
the bottom of the cask. 


(3707), CLARIFYING WINES (Collage des Vins), 


Clarifying is not only for the purpose of rendering wines clear, but also to free them of any 
dissoluble matter which might precipitate later. 


To Clarify Red Wines.—To clarify a cask of wine containing two hundred and twenty-five 
quarts, beat up partly five egg-whites with half a bottleful of wine; take out eight quarts of wine 
from the cask, pour in the clarifying matter and insert a stick split in four; move this about in 
every direction for two minutes so as to mix in the whites well, then refill the cask with the eight 
quarts previously extracted, and finish filling with wine or water; put back the bung. Five or six 
days after the wine should be clear, but in case it is not sufficiently so draw all the wine off into 
another very clean cask and reclarify once more the same as before, leaving it five or six days; 
it can then be drawn. 


To Clarify White Wines.—White wines are clarified with fish isinglass. Beat with a hammer 
a quarter of an ounce of the isinglass, tear it to pieces, cutting it apart with a pair of scissors, 
then soak it for eight hours in sufficient wine to cover; when swollen, and it has absorbed all the 
liquid, pour over as much as before and leave it for twenty-four hours; then add half a pint of hot 
water; stir this about to crush, then press forcibly through a towel. Beat it with a whip, pour- 
ing a little white wine slowly over until the entire solution makes one quart of liquid. Before 
pouring it into the cask beat it up with three pints of white wine and finish the same as the 
red. The egg-whites or isinglass can be replaced by prepared powders. 


(3708), DECANTING WINES AND BASKET FOR SERVING WINE (Vins Décantés et Panier 4 
Verser le Vin), 


Decanting consists of gently pouring from the bottles, inclining them slightly, any liquor that 
leaves a sediment; on this depends the clear appearance of an old wine. Well-decantered liquors 
present a beautiful limpid color through the decanter, contributing greatly to the enjoyment of 
drinking a glass of good wine. 


Basket for Serving Wines.—In well-appointed houses the fine wines are decantered 
before dinner and poured into cut-glass decanters. A simpler way is to lay the bottles ip 





7 
’ 
UO 
6 





asm ings; but in order to carry out this precaution 
: Es will be absolutely necessary to haye the bottle laid in the basket several hours before nate it 









Fic. 767. 


_ on the table, so that however little sediment the wine may contain it will settle at the bottom of 
the bottle. It is unnecessary to add that the basket must not be violently shaken and that the 
__ wine be poured out with the greatest care, 


(3709). DELMONICO’S WINE CELLAR LIST, 


pee , Absinthe. Vermouth. 
SHERRY. 
From the De Renne Estate. 
. | Duff Gordon. 
_ Premieére. G. S., 1815. C. Old around the cape. Peter Domecq Jerez Med. 
-_ Imperial. J. S8., 1815. Peerless Cape. 1818. 
Brown. Pale Gordon. Choice Amont’ado 1857 Montilla xxxx. 
Pando. Suarez Superior. P. G. Old, No. 5. Wellington, P. Domecq. 
Amontillado, Dry. Suarez Pasto. Dry Soleras, 1828. Jerez, 1730. 
_  Amontillado, 1834. Suarez Oloroso. Solera Cape. P. Domecq £100 Royal, 
Ka Old Mantilla. Pale Pemartin. Harmony. Pale. 
4 MADEIRA. 
a From the De Renne Estate. 
: Imperial. L. I., 1815. Agrella Madeira, 1818. F. Amory Imported, 1806, 
Green Seal. Thompson’s Auction. L. C. Madeira. Y. Amory Dom Pedro, 
oo 0. 8. Y.,-.1820. Old Reserve. Thorndike A, 1809. 1791-92. 
a N. G., 1798. F. Amory, Imported, 1811. 
: MOSELLE. 
: Scharzberg Muscatel. Brauneberger. Scharzhofberger. Piesporter. 
Berncasteler Doctor. Zeltinger. Sparkling. Josephshofer. 
A . RHINE. 
Johannisberger Red Seal. Steinberger Cabinet. Geisenheimer. Riidesheimer. 
Johannisberger Gold Seal. Steinberger Auslese. Marcobrunner. Riidesheimer Berg. 
“ Johannisberger Schloss. Steinberger Cab. Imp’l. Marcobrunner Aus. Riidesheimer Berg Aus. 
¥, Rauenthaler Berg. Bocksbeutel. Domdechaney. Riidesheimer Berg Cab. 
. Hochheimer. Deidesheimer. Laubenheimer. 
Liebfraumilch. Assmannshauser (Red). Niersteiner. 
HUNGARIAN. 
Budai. Tokay Imperial (White). Somlyai (White). 
Villanyi. Tokay Cabinet (White). Budai Créme. 
BORDEAUX. 
White. ree 
Chateau Yquem. Graves. Sauterne. Lafaurie. 
Chateau Yquem Créme de Haut Sauterne. Sauterne tre. Latour. 


5 Téte. Barsac. 





THE EPICUREAN. 


1064 | 
BORDEAUX. 
Pichon. Pontet Canet. Larose. 
Chateau Lagrange. Rauzan. St. Julien. - Chateau Léovillé. 
Batailley. Léoville. . St. Julien Supérieur. Chateau Larose. — 
St. Pierre. Mouton Rothschild. Chateau Couffran. Chateau Margaux, 
Chateau Langoa. Haut Brion. St. Estéphe. Chateau Latour. 
Chateau Pontet Canet. Magnum Bonum. Chateau de Pez. Chateau Laffitte. ; 
BURGUNDY. | a 
Nuits. Macon. _ Clos de Vougeot. Beaujolais. 
Corton. Macon Vieux. Romanée. Volnay. 
Chambertin. Pommard. Romanée Conti. Beaune. — 
BURGUNDY. 
White. 
Montrachet. Chablis, — 
Montrachet Mousseux. Chablis Vieux. 


RHONE. 
Hermitage. a 

Hermitage (White). | 
CHAMPAGNES. Ser 
Moét, White Label. 


Cook’s Imperial. Pommery. 

Jules Mumm Grand Sec. Pommery Vin Nature. Moét, Imperial Brut. 
Deutz & Geldermann Sec. Clicquot. Piper Heidsieck Sec. 
Dry Monopole. L. Roederer. Delbeck, Extra Dry. 
Monopole Club, Dry. Ruinart Brut. Delbeck, Brut. 
Giesler. Royal Charter. Delmonico. 


Giesler Brut, 1884. Montrachet Mousseux. Krug Sec. 


MALAGA, OLD. 


Port. 
Premiere. Very Old (White). | Osborn. 
BRANDY. 
Renault & Co. Vierge. Martell. 
Jules Robin & Co. Renault, 1858. . Martell Old. 
WHISKEY. 


Delmonico’s Private Delmonico’s Private - Irish. 


Stock-Rye. Stock-Bourbon. Trish (Powers). 
Bourbon. Hollywood. Old Cabinet Rye. 
Rye. McGrath. Scotch. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
Old Tom Gin. Holland Gin. Old Rum. Very Old Jamaica Rum. 
LIQUEURS. 
Noyau. Kimmel. Bénédictine. Curacoa. 
Prunelle de Bourgogne. Kirsch. Chartreuse (Yellow). Curacoa Sec. 
Creme de Menthe. Eckau. Chartreuse (Green). Anisette. 
Maraschino. 
ALEs, ETc. 
Scotch. Kaiser Beer. 
Porter. Yuengling’s Tivoli Beer. 


Ginger Ale (Imported). 
Beadleston & Woerz’s Imperial Lager. 
St. Louis Lager. 
Ind. Coope & Co. Pale Ale. 


MINERAL WATERS. 


Apollinaris. Clysmic. Juliushaller. 


Cotes Réties. 


Milwaukee Lager. 
Bass—MeMullen. 





Krug Sec, 1880. 
Perrier Jouet, Special. 
Heidsick Brut. 
Perrier Jouét, Brut. 
Mumm’s Extra Dry. 
Trroy. 

Irroy Brut. 


Sandeman’s Old. 


Private Importation. 
Very Old English Brandy. 


Bass Dog’s Head. 4 
Cider, Jericho. 


Vichy (Imported). 


WINES. 1065 


(3710), HOW TO FREEZE CHAMPAGNE (Manitre de Frapper le Champagne), 


In order to freeze champagne pounded ice and rock salt are generally used. Have a pail made 
of galvanized sheet iron or of wood, but the iron one is preferable, for the wine cools quicker in it. 
z Put the bottle into a pail thirteen inches deep, seven and a half inches in diameter at the bottom 
i 
p 





and nine inches at the top; this pail must be furnished with a handle. Make a mixture of three 


~ 
Pe thine 




































































| 

























































































































































































































































































Fie. 768. Fic. 769. 


pounds of finely pounded ice with a pound and a half of rock salt, not too coarse; fill the pail to the 
top, mix well together and turn the bottle by the neck to give it a backward and forward move- 
ment from right to left. If the champagne be taken from the ice-box where it has been lying for 
several hours, then it will only take twelve to fourteen minutes to freeze, but if it has not been 
previously on ice, then it will require fifteen to eighteen minutes for the operation. Champagne 
an be frozen without turning it around by leaving it in the salted ice for half an hour before serv- 
ing. Machines are sometimes used which simplify the work greatly; the same time is required, 
only the labor is less fatiguing. When finished serve in a metal silver-plated pail with salted ice 
around. These are to be placed either on the table or on a small side table. 


(3711), APPETIZERS AND MIXED DRINKS (Apéritifs et Boissons Mélangées), 


Iced drinks are those to which plenty of ice is added, then covered with a tin shaker and 
shaken until the contents are very cold and iced. 

Cold drinks are those mixed into chopped ice with a spoon. 

A glass of vermuth equals half a gill and is the glass meant in the recipes when not otherwise, 
specified. 

Five small glassfuls equal a gill. 

Six dashes fill a teaspoon. 

Vermuth Cocktail.—Put some fine ice into a large glass, add a glassful of Italian vermuth and 
one dash of Boker’s bitters; mix the whole together with a spoon, strain and serve in small glasses. 
Another kind of vermuth cocktail is made by replacing the Italian vermuth by French vermuth, 
and having orange bitters instead of Boker’s. 

Sherry and Bitters.—Sherry into which a little bitters is mixed. 

Brandy, Whiskey, Holland Gin and Tom Gin Cocktails.—Put some very finely broken ice in 
a large glass, add a glassful either of brandy, whiskey or Holland gin, one dash of Boker’s bitters, 


1066 THE EPICUREAN. 


and two dashes of sweetening (gum syrup); mix well together with a spoon, strain and serve in 


small glasses. Tom gin cocktail is made exactly the same, only using old Tom gin and suppressing — 


the sweetening. 

Calisaya Cocktail.—Mix in a large glass some finely chopped ice, a vermuth glassful of 
calisaya, one dash of orange bitters and a little vermuth; mix well, strain and serve in small 
glasses. 

Peruvian Cocktail.—Add to some finely chopped ice in a glass, a vermuth elaseenlt of 


Peruvian bitters, one dash of orange bitters and a little vermuth; mix thoroughly, strain and serye ~ 


in small glasses. 

Martine Cocktail.—Have some broken ice in a large glass with the third of a glassful of Tom 
gin and two-thirds (making a glassful in all) of vermuth, and one dash of Boker” s bitters; mix well, 
strain and pour into small glasses. 

Manhattan Cocktail.—Place some very finely broken ice in a large glass, ‘add the third of a 
glassful of whiskey and two-thirds of vermuth, also one dash of Boker’s bitters; mix properly, 
strain and serve in small glasses. 

Jersey Cocktail Iéed.—For three cocktails put into a vermuth glass some apple jack and two 
glassfuls of Italian or French vermuth, adding three dashes of Angostura bitters and finely pounded 
ice. Cover with a tin shaker, toss, strain and pour into small glasses. 


Absinthe Cocktail Iced.—Put some finely chopped ice in a large glass, add a small glassful of 


absinthe, two dashes of orange bitters and two dashes of sweetening; mix properly, cover with a 
shaker, toss, strain and serve in small glasses. 


Iced Absinthe.—Have some finely chopped ice in a large glass, add a small glassful of absinthe 
and water, cover with a tin shaker, tess thoroughly, strain and serve in medium-sized glasses. 


Riding Club Cocktail.—Put some finely broken ice in a glass with two-thirds of a glass of 


Hostetter’s bitters, half a teaspoonful cf Horsford’s acid phosphate, two dashes of French vermuth; 


cover with a tin shaker and toss until the cocktail is iced, then strain and pour into small glasses. 
For all cocktails a piece of lemon peel is generally twisted over the cocktail. 


(3712), OLARET OUP AND CLARET OUP A LA WILLARD'S. 


Sweeten a pint of claret to taste, add to it one gill of maraschino or Curacoa, one pint of soda 
water, a few mint leaves, fresh strawberries or raspberries and pieces of pineapple. Cucumbers 
or borage leaves may be added. 


A la Willard’s.—Crush one pound of strawberries, add four spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the 
juice of one lemon, a pint of whipped cream and a bottleful of soda water. 


(3713), LEMONADE OR WITH SYRUP AND ORANGEADE (Limonade, Limonade au Nirop et 
Orangeade), 
Lemonade.—Take a pint and a half of lemon juice and a pound and a half of sugar, add water 
to taste, add thin slices of lemon and serve very cold. 


Lemonade with Syrup.—ten gills of syrup at thirty-two degrees, one quart of lemon juice, 
the peel of one lemon and a quart of water; let the peel infuse, strain through a silk sieve and 
bring it to eleven degrees, syrup gauge (Fig. 167). 

Orangeade.—Eight gills of syrup at thirty-two degrees, ten gills of lemon juice, the peel of two 
oranges, two and a half quarts of water, and the juice of four lemons; bring it to eleven degrees, 
syrup gauge, strain through a silk sieve and serve very cold. 


(3714), CHAMPAGNE, CLARET AND RUM PUNCH; DESSERT DRINKS (Punch au Champagne, 


Bordeaux et Rhum; Boissons Pour le Dessert), 


Champagne.—Three quarts of champagne wine, two quarts or bottles of Sauterne wine, three 
bottles of soda water, one gill of Curagoa and fresh fruits in season. 


Claret.—Four bottles of Bordeaux, one quart of water, one pound of sugar, one gill of Curagoa 


and kirsch, half of each, half a gill of lemon juice and fresh fruits in season, such as cherries, 
strawberries, pineapple or raspberries. 


Rum.—Two quarts of St. Croix rum, one pint of Jamaica rum, three pints of water, one pound 
of sugar, one gill of lemon juice and fresh fruits in season. 














WINES. 1067 


| cious drink is currant juice, grenadine or orgeat, in large glasses, and moistened with ice 
t Drinks.—Fine champagne brandy, iced eckau kiimmel, iced cream of peppermint. ’ 
menthe), Chartreuse, yellow and green, and kirsch. 

Pousse Café.—The pousse café is a drink composed of four kinds of liquor of different color: 
say, white cream of peppermint, green Chartreuse, cream of cocoa and brandy. These 
ors are poured into a glass tumbler in such a way that they remain in distinct layers, 


2 is done by carefully pouring the above liquors, one after the other, against the side of the 
; thus the liquors flow down gently without mixing. 


ne pound of Scotch oatmeal mix four quarts of boiling water; whip it in, stirring vigor- 
boil the preparation, working it steadily; add one and a half pounds of seeded Malaga 
peel and juice of four lemons, a pint of good sherry wine and sufficient sugar to 
ttle grated nutmeg, ground cloves and cinnamon; also add a quarter of a pound of 
ed citron, and should it be too thick then put in more boiling water, strain through 


Punch—Hot.—Put into a jar two bottles of Bordeaux wine, the juice of six oranges and 

three, a small stick of cinnamon, and three cloves; let the whole infuse for twelve hours, 

s through a sieve. Put the liquid in an untinned copper saucepan with six ounces of 
1t until it nearly reaches the boiling point and serve in punch glasses, 


” 





ee ey cee 





owe CHUN TORY TABLES. 





Following will be found several plates taken from works of the last century. I have thought 
them sufficiently interesting to publish and even to have them made use of, that is by modifying 
the models; for instance, replacing the colored sand beds by those of arabesques of flowers or 
grass; the marble statues by bronzes, the trees by graceful potted plants and the center by hand- 


some ornamental sugar pieces. The following cuts will give a correct idea of how these tables were 


dressed. The center of the table was decorated with ‘‘dormants” or looking-glass platforms; 
on these were placed ornaments made by cutting out cardboard arabesques (see plate 1). 
The edges of these cardboards were trimmed with green chenille fastened on with green wax; this 
chenille filled up any vacant space that might occur between the cardboard and the looking-glass. 
The center B is decorated with a balustrade shown in the design on the top.of the page. The 
center of this is a square flower-bed, in the middle of which a figure generally stood, and the 


remainder of the bed is decorated around with variegated colored sand; to meet this balustrade 


is a gum-paste border garnished with small fancy cakes or dried fruits. There must always bea 
space two feet wide left between the platform and the edge of the table. The designs A and C are 
decorated with beds the same as B, having also a figure in the center. In case of large tables these 
*‘dormants ” or platforms were made iz sections. 


PLATE IIJ.—Represents a table already dressed, taken from a work published in 1768. 
PLATE III.—A table laid with the dessert, decorated with colored sand arabesques. 


PLATE IY.—Represents a more modern horseshoe-shaped table; this design being frequently 
used for large society dinners and banquets. This form of table is very convenient, as the president 
is seated in the center of the rounded part and the two principal officers at the ends; on the right 
of the president, the most honored guest; on his left, the one next in distinction and so on, alter- 
nating from right to left for the guests or members of the society. No high center pieces or’ other 
tall ornaments should be placed before the president, merely a basket of natural flowers or one 
of pulled sugar flowers. On the length of the table and in the center or middle line can be placed 
several high pieces, candelabras, epergnes, etc., all around, sixteen inches from the edge. Arrange the 
plates and glassware at the usual distances, with two forks on the left, one for fish and another 
for the entrées; on the right have a knife, a soupspoon, a butter knife and an oyster fork, butter 
and salt in front, and around arrange the glasses for water, Burgundy, port, champagne, Sauterne, 
and sherry. The space between each place is twenty-four inches for those seated straight and 
twenty-two for those on the curve. Before each plate set a chair and on the plate a folded napkin 
containing a roll; in front a card with the number and name written on of the person who is to 
occupy the seat. This is a short synopsis of the manner of arranging a horseshoe-shaped table. 


PLATE V.—Represents divers ornaments used for decorating a table the same as PlateI. The 
design D represents the palace of Circe, who metamorphized Ulysses’ companions into swine. 
E F are statues to stand at each end; G are pedestals with vases on top; placed around the beds 
of sand or flowers and between each pedestal is a tree as shown in H. The looking-glass ‘‘ dor- 
mant” or platform can be left undecorated. M may be used instead of the temple for a small table. 


Piate VI.—Figure No. 1 represents a border around the dormant made of gum paste; No. 2 
platforms to place the dried fruits and nuts on; No. 3 flower beds; No. 4 the position for the 
trees; No. 5 for pedestals having grass around each one; No. 6 represents mounds of earth to 
stand figures on, and all the intervening empty space is to be of looking-glass, or else of sand, 


according to taste. 
(1069) 







1070 THE EPICUREAN. 
PLATE L : 


mg 












UU 


OTTO 


. 


= ee 


ALVA 





oh Haver areanaNTCCa 


0 Te Ma") QI 
@ MMMM III 




























y me N oe 


NW 










LA 


\ ES 
SSE ae 

$ pe \ 
See 
SSS ae 


S 


f Y 


1071 


LAST CENTURY TABLES. 


PLATE III. 























Ser 
error wow, Loe TLLE EMI ILD Uy 
rrr vorswmarr es, 
LE PIO 


SSeS 


LPSLOLSPSS I 
—— fen gh 




















PLL TD 


LIP PLT a; 
nee cee oe 


[cee 
_—————— 
———— 

Gamar ia 


go 
Dui MEE 

















PLATE IV. 


ee 8 6aEB 9 
s8vTb avai ns 


@nnvaveo * + 

=18 3 . pauod ‘< 
: ° “Wauwan ‘% 

“¢ BBYTO LONTAUNA* 


_ aaADG 


\7 BS AU OLAV GAL 





& Gar o= 0 


O 


° @D 


Cx. 


Gyo Ou, © 


s 


O 


@D 


Peo: © 0.0 


O 


Os © 


1072 THE EPICUREAN. 


PLATE V. 


j= 


xs 


| 


(cles 





) i 3 =3 IK 
IGUANA” ILA TN eeu 


| 
t || cc teeA PROTA UENO MN ACU AN CORSO US AY UT Hh 


irene 





PLATE VI. 








a eo 


—_) ) 42> 
A a 


1862. DELMONICO’S MENUS. 1894. 





I give here a series of bills of fare served ico, i 
Madison square and 26th street. These are Wee ahi ce that here fe Teese wee 
regret that I cannot add more, for I am sure they. would please the subscribers ee eT 
I have endeavored to select those most interesting. The bills of fare are gener i SS eee 
ep rate Some being engraved on sterling silver leaves; others are litho ra h # ae Sana 
masterpieces of art, the original costing several hundred dollars; others — e fe ‘ : ay ag 
others enclosed in small Russian leather books; many have hee made ae ; Res et B's a 
figures, giving a very beautiful and artistic effect; they are also made of bev 1 ’ i “i a 
painted by hand in water colors, either subjects or monograms being used. A Bi be ae BRO: 
very much admired is two equal-sized cards having two holes in the top of : ee nee Z 
together with two pretty ribbons; with these there is no necessity of hi Cees bala its 
holder, as when opened they stand alone. RRs E28: 






TABLD DPCORATED Wirt FLOWERS "AND FOLIAGE “ayo 


¢ Brillat-Savarin in his digression on taste observes that only men of wit know how to eat, 
the food that pleases the men of wit.” 


while I add, that it requires a man of taste to prepare 
—EVERS. 


year 1893 will be found the 


n by the Chamber of Commerce in the 
the president 


d; the upper one is the principal table, 
sein front of the 


In the last dinner give 
diagram and the manner the tables were lai 
and his guests being seated in the center. The other tables are placed lengthwi 
president’s; they are classed alphabetically. Each place is designated by a number and the name 
of the person to occupy it. The end of each table is reserved for the members of the arrangement 
committee; a special table is for the press. The one numbered F 1s for the object of completing 


the seating capacity of the three hundred guests. 
(1073) 













DECEMBRE, 1862. 
DINER DE 28 COUVERTS. © 
Un Menu de la Série des fameux Diners grecs. 


ona ly be MENU. ~~ iE ee 


tr tee , eke ae 


pee 


. . < . is -- ‘. ” , ei, 
* - Ay Ph ae 1 We ; ad ee 
Ai, gy ok eee a ete SUEY Uy Gene ii de 





oinbae sibier 2 a la a rrengateee 
“HORS-D'@UVRE. me, 
Croquettes & la Comtesse, 
| Sas ep 6 72 07 8 “PoRsoNe. ie 1 Se SN 
SaumondlaRoyale === Bass De BEC 
ptees ta Pui, e es ae 


Filet de bout Chateanbriand, * ° = 
Dinde sauvage au Chasseur, 


en 





Coteltts a a volaille Moréthale. Ria ee aa Ne 





Se nae - Filets de grouse a la Dauphine.” : 
go SE = ee Timbales a ala ‘Parisiefine: 





; ce . Att ea ie Croustades ae s Telepen | ¥ 
f eae ae “ org i a 7 mo de ie an Bel 
| ae Sorbet & PAndatouses* fees Ls 
a ope BOTA ie 
‘ Faisans Anglais planes 4 truffés. : Bae a: < Ss a @, B: 


‘ENTREMETS svoriis CHAUDS, 2 


‘Compitgne aux poires. , 
bio ic a “ a _ Cygne suri 





A rw Orit ata “miners ‘suchis, is. 
Macédoine. Neate oe Fate a 7) 
es ‘de Muscat Pain dabricets Montaig 
_ Lait-d'amandes rubané ‘au-chocolate a «ras . 
Creme’) ‘Portugaise, Soe ak Goronflot 4 l’an igual 
Charlotte ee 










PIECES uowrées, 


Pavillon des Colonnes. 
Corbeille arabesque garnie de fruits. 
~ Nougat Impérial. 
Chaumiére des Colombes. 


GLACES. 


Napolitaine. — > ee as "Bombe a la flew orangor, 
Dessert.;, <. *i sent cpene pai Sanaa 
ee Pre gs et ee ey Ay ae in foe” oe cif age ore 
ey: 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. 


1075 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


Votuoulag "anuaey YS PUY poalzg yzuoojinog fe 
“9JeO 
“LYassaa 
"S9OUIS S}INOSIG ‘9yvO NV 4IeyIVg *SOORLD 


“ULIVABS NBIIVH 
‘o1QpVL NB’ VgTeH 
-oureode N soitod ap ayvquily, 
‘SHUNNS SLANAULNG 
‘yonp youq svauvo ‘soonbid sor[Iep 
"SLOU 
"(0UIpLDQ ND YOUN 
‘oulg.19 sones ‘soslodsy . 
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1076 THE EPICUREAN. ~ || 


BALL. 
NOVEMBER 5, 1863, AT THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC. 


RUSSIAN FLEET. 


Rear-Admiral Lessoffsky, Russian flagship ‘‘ Alecander Weosky,” 51 guns. 
Captain Kopytor, Russian screw frigate ‘‘ Peresvat,” 48 guns. 
Captain Bontakoff, Russian screw frigate ‘‘ Osliaba,” 33 guns. 
Captain Lund (or Lurd), Russian screw sloop ‘‘ Vitioz,” 77 guns. 
Captain Kremer, Russian screw sloop ‘‘ Variag,” 17 guns. 


MENU. 
HORS-D’QUVRE. 
Huitres 4 la poulette. Huitres en marinade. Bouchées. de gibier. 
Canapés de filets d’ortolans. Snit-mitch a la Russe. 


GROSSES PIECES. 


Saumons au beurre de Montpellier. . Truites a la Régence. 
Filet de boeuf a la Mazarin. Patés de canvas-back ducks. 
Galantines de cochon de lait. Patés de gibier sur socles. 
Jambons de Westphalie 4 la moderne. Galantines de dindes aux truffes. 
ENTREES. ; 
Salade de volaille a la Russe. Canetons Rouennaise. 
Cételette de pigeons en*macédoine. Bordures d’escalopes de homards. — 
Chaudfroid de filets de faisans. Aspics de filets de soles Victoria. 
Pain de gibier 4 la Royale. Timbales a la Renaissance. 
Terrines de Nérac. _ Mitecae = Bécassines a la Geoifroy. 
ROTs. 
Cailles aux feuilles de Vignes. Bécasses Bardées. 
Faisans Piqués. Grouses. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES ET DESSERTS. 


Savarins au Marasquin. Biscuits Moscovites. 
Gateaux de mille feuilles. Babas glacés au Rhum. 
Charlottes Sibériennes. Charlottes, New York. 
Meringues panachées et vanillées. 
Gelées macédoine au champagne. Pain d’abricots 4 la Bérisina. 
Gelées Dantzic Orientale. Blane manger rubané au chocolat. 
Gelées de poires 4 la maréchale. Bavarois aux fraises. 
Gelées au Madére. Biscuits glacés a la rose. 
Gateaux assortis. Petits fours. Compotes. _ Fruits. 


PIECES MONTEES ET GLACEES. 


Pierre le Grand. Washington. 
Alexandre IT. Lincoln. 
Le berceau des Palmiers. La rotonde d’Athénes. 
La fontaine moderne. L’ Ermitage Russe. 
L’Arc de Triomphe. | Cornes jumelles d’abondance. 
Sultane a4 la Parisienne. Le Pavillon des _aigles. 
L’aigle Américain. Le casque sur socle. Pouding Nesselrode. 
LA LIONNE. 
Colombus. Corbeille jardiniére. Les Dauphins. 
Diane. Madeleine. Mousse aux amandes. 
Bombe spongade. Citron et fraise. Ceylan au café. Vanille chocolat. 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 





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1078 THE. EPICUREAN, UU 


NOVEMBRE, 1864. 


DINER DE 26 COUVERTS. 


Offert 4 1’Amiral Renaud de la 
Flotte Francaise. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 
Oréme de volaille. Consommé Royale. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Croquettes 4 la Victoria. 


POISSONS. . 
Saumon & l’Impériale. Soles farcies, sauce au champagne. ~ 


RELEVE. . 
‘Selle de chevreuil, sauce poivrade. ° 


ENTREES. 
Dindonneaux a la Toulouse. 
Caisses de bécasses 4 la Diane. 
Paté de foies gras. 
Mayonnaise: de homard. 


Punch a la Régence. 


ROTS. 
Canvas back. tinh -— Filet de beeut; — 
ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 
Petits pois. Haricots verts. 
Choux fleurs. Tomates farcies. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES CHAUDS. 
Pouding Cabinet. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES FROIDS. 
Gelée macédoine. _ 3 Savarin Chantilly. 
Gelée-Madere. . Charlotte russe. 
Blane manger. } : Meringues. 


PIECES MONTEES. ay asin" 
Trophée maritime. ~~ 


Bombe spongade, Napolitaine. ore = Oa ea 
Petits fours. Fruits. : Gatien 


Le casque Romain. 


Nougat Impérial. 
Chaumiére des Colombes, 





Glace Napolitaine. 
Bombe fleur d’oranger. 
Dessert. 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico 





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1080 | 2 PT OU RAN 


DINNER GIVEN BY SIR MORTON PETO, 
—— A Pas. 
DeELMonico’s, OcToBER 30, 1365. 





MENU. 


Barsac. ‘ Re Huitres. 
POTAGES. 

Xéres F. S., 1815. : - Consommé Britannia. iheeee 
; Purée A la Derby. : 

" HORS-D’EUVRE. = + 

Cassolettes de foies-gras. atte “ta Timbales a V 
POISSONS. ; 


Steinberger Cabinet. ~ Saumon Ala Rothschild. 
Grenadins de bass, New York. 


Chie 


RELEVES, Pas 
Champagne Napoleon. Chapons truffés. 
ie Filet de boeuf 4 la Durham. = 
ENTREES. “ge 
Chateau Latour. Faisans 4 la Londonderry. 2 3 


Cételettes d’agneau Primatice. 
Cromesquis de volaille 4 la purée de marrons. 
Aiguillettes de canards A la bigarade. 

Rissolettes 4 la Pompadour. 


. ENTREES FROIDES. Be 
Cotes Rities, Pn nnn iw anemone rome gare Oe BIDIEE = a 
Ballotines d’anguilles en Bellevue. 
Chaudfroid de rouges-gorges & la Bohémienne, _ 








Buisson de ris d’agneau Pascaline. = 
Sorbet @ la Sir Morton Peto. 
ROTIS. 
Clos-V ougeot. Selle de chevreuil, sauce au vin de Porto groseilles. 
) Bécasses bardées. 
. ; ENTREMETS, ae 
Choux de Bruxelles. | Haricots Verts. 
_ Artichauts farcis, Petits pois. . 
; sucrés, | cos 
Tokai Impérial. Pouding de poires A la Madison. 
Louisiannais a l’ananas. oe 
Gelée aux fruits. . Pain d’abricot. 
Moscovite fouettée. —. Gelée Indien 
Vacherin au marasquin. | Cougloff aux : 
Mazarin aux péches. - Mousse A l’orangs 
Caisses Jardiniére. ae Glaces assorties. 
Fruits et Desserts. ec a 
| _ PIECES MONTEES. 
Madére Faquart. . | Cascade Pyramidale. ak 
Corbeille arabesque. Ruines de Poéstum. : 
Le Palmier. : . ' - Trophée militaire. 


Corne d’abondance, © 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. 


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“NvWuaEg IVUANGY) AV LUNATIC 
| SLUMANOD ZZ aa | 


1082 THE BPICURPAGN. 


DINNER GIVEN BY THE CITIZENS OF NEW YORK 
TO HIS EXCELLENCY 
PRESIDENT JOHNSON, 


In honor of his visit to the city, Wednesday, August 29, 1866. 


7 


MENU. 
POTAGES. 
Amontillado, Consommé Chatelaine. Bisque aux quenelles, 


HORS-D’ @UVRE. 


Timbales de gibier 4 la Vénitienne. 


POISSONS. oe 

Hochheimerberg. Saumon Livonienne. Paupiettes de kingfish, Villeroi. 
; RELEVES, 

Cham pagne. Selle d’agneau aux concombres. "Filet de boeuf & la Pocahontas. 
ENTREES. 


Supréme de volaille Dauphine. 
Ballotines de pigeons Lucullus. 
Chat. Margaua, ’48. Filets de canetons Tyrolienne. 
Cotelettes 4 la Maréchale. 
Ris de veau Montgomery. 


Boudins a la Richelieu, — 


Sorbet @ la Dunderberg. 
ROTS. 
Cius-V ougeot. Bécassines Bardées. Ortolans farcis. 
ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 


Petits pois a |’ Anglaise. Tomates farcies. 
Aubergines frites. »  Artichauts Barigoule 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Tokai Impérial. p Péches 4 la New York. 
Abricots Siciliens. 


Macédoine de fruits. | Moscovites aux oranges. re 
Bavarois aux fraises. - Gelée Californienne. ~ 

Créme aux amandes. Meringues Chantilly. | 
Beauséjour au Malaga. - Mille feuilles Pompadour, — 
Gateau soleil. Biscuits glacés aux pistaches. 


FRUITS ET DESSERTS. 
Madere Faquart. 
PIECES MONTEES. 


Monument de Washington. _ Fontaine des Aigles. 
Temple de la Liberté. Trophée National. 
Casque Romain. Colonne de |’Union. 
Char de la Paix. Rotonde Egyptienne. 
Cassolette Sultane. Corne d’ Abondance, 


“ourteenth Street and Fijth Avenue. Delmonico. 


1083: 


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1084 THE EPICUREAN. 


AVRIL, 1867. 
DINER DE 175 COUVERTS. 
En l’Honneur de Charles Dickens. 


MENU. 


Huitres sur coquilles. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Sévigné., Créme d’asperges & la Dumas. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE CHAUD. 
Timbales 4 la Dickens. 


POISSONS. 
Saumon 4 la Victoria. Bass a I’Italienne. 
Pommes de terre Nelson. 
RELEVES. . 
Filet de boeuf & 1a Lucullus. Laitues braisées demi-glace. 
Agneau farci a la Walter Scott. Tomates 4 la Reine. 
ENTREES. 


Filets de brants 4 la Seymour. 
Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise. | 
Croustades de ris de veau a la Douglas. 
Quartiers d’artichauts Lyonnaise. 
Epinards au velouté. 
Cotelettes de grouses 4 la Fenimore Cooper. 


ENTREES FROIDES. 
Galantines a la Royale. 
Aspics de foies-gras_historiés. 
INTERMEDE. 
Sorbet @ Vv Américaine. 
ROTS. 
Bécassines. Poulets de grains truffés. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Péches a la Parisienne (chaud). 


Macédoine de fruits. Moscovite A l’abricot. 
Lait d’amandes rubané au chocolat. 
Charlotte Doria. 
Viennois glacé 4 l’orange. Corbeille de biscuits Chantilly. 
Gateau Savarin au marasquin. 





Glaces forme fruits Napolitaine. 
Parfait au Café. 


PIECES MONTEES. 





Temple de la Littérature. Trophée a l’Auteur. 
Pavillon international. Colonne Triomphale. 
Les armes Britanniques. The Stars and Stripes. 
Le Monument de Washington. La Loi du destin. 
Fruits. Compotes de péches et de poires. Petits fours. 
Fleurs. 
Dessert. ‘ 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 


1085 


DELMONICO’S MENW’S. 


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"4.19880(] 
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1086 | . UPR ER eR PLOU RBMAN. 


DECEMBRE, 1868. 


DINER DE 280 COUVERTS. 
En |’Honneur du Professeur Morse. 


MENU. 


Huitres sur coquilles. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Sévigné de perdreau. 
Purée d’asperges aux crotitons soufilés. 


HORS-D’Q@UVRE. 


Brissotins au supréme. 


RELEVES. 


Saumon 4 la Franklyn. : Pommes gastronome. 
Escalopes de bass aux éperlans Dauphin. 


Filet de boeuf aux fonds d’artichauts macédoine. 
Dindonneaux a la moderne. 


ENTREES. 


Ris de veau a la Valeng¢ay. ; Salmis de grouses aux truffes. 
Paupiettes de poulet Vénitienne. 


Sa POP REES PROWESS. 


Pains de faisans Chantilly. Galantine de pigeons & la Royale. 
Homard mayonnaise en Bellevue. Paté de gibier Parisienne. 


Sorbet Dalmatie. 


ROTS. 
Canvas-back. Cailles truffées. 


ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 


Petits pois au beurre. a Epinards velouté. 
Choux fleurs gratin. Haricots verts: sautés. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUD. 
Pommes a la Manhattan. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS. 


Ananas a l’Orientale. Lait d’amandes rubané. 

Savarin aux fraises. Charlotte russe, vanille ornée sucre filé. 
Bavarois au cacao. Sicilien glacé au marasquin. 

Gateau a l’angélique. Panier de meringues. 


Pieces montées. 
Glace excellent au café. Montélimar. 
Fruits. Petits fours. Compotes. 
. Café. 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. | Delmonico. 






ee: a DELMONICO’S MENU'S. ae 1087 


“JUIN, 1868, 
NER DE 200 CouvERts. 
“HONNEUR DES AMBASSADEURS CHINOIS. 


coh 


ee. ate MENU. 
POTAGE. 
pleats eS | A la Brunoise. 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Bouchées A la Reine. 


RELEVES. 


Saumon a la sauce Hollandaise. — 
Bass rayé au gratin. 
Filet de bouf a la jardiniare. 


Pommes de terre Duchesse. 


ae | | ENTREES. 
ae 53 Poulet sauté a la. Valenciennes. 
Re _ Epinards au velouté. Petits pois aux laitues. 
ease Ris de veau braisés, sauce Madeére. ; 


? 
Haricots verts sautés. 





eee ; Sorbet Californienne. : 
ROTS. 3 
Brants. , Salade d’escarolle. 
ae ee ENTREMETS SUCRES. = ESAS 


Pouding d’ananas au Sabayon. 


Gelée au Madére. 7 Bavarois aux fraises. 
Gateau Savarin. Mille feuilles. 

; Glaces variées. Petits fours. 
Fruits, ; Compotes. 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Le Pavillon du Mandarin. Monument de Washington. 
. heer v6 ae Clipper de Hong Kong, l’Enfant du Soleil. 
Dessert. 
: Delmonico. 


1088 2 COPEL ES 


OCTOBRE, 1869. 
DINER DE 120 COUVERTS. 
Les PIONNIERS DE LA CALIFORNIE. 


Chablis. 


Amontillado. Consommé Sévigné. 


EPICUREAN. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 
Créme de gibier. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE CHAUD. 


Brissotins au supréme. 


RELEVES. 
Hochheimer. Bass a& la Dieppoise. Pommes tartelettes. 
Champagne. Filet de boeuf aux Champignons nouveaux. 

ENTREES. 
Bordeaux. Cotelettes de volaille, sauce Périgueux. 


Petits pois au beurre. 


Ris de veau a la Valengay. 


Epinards A l’Espagnole. 


ENTREES FROIDES. 


Galantine a la gelée. 


Jambon décoré, 


Salade de homard. : 


Sorbet a la Dalmatie. 


Champagne. Perdreaux. 


ROTS. 
Bécasses. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Timbale 4 la Madison (chaud). 


Gelée aux ananas. 





Bavarois aux fraises. 


Corbeille de meringues Chantilly. Charlotte Parisienne. 


L’Etat de Or. 
Le Tunnel. 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. 


Gateau Sicilien. 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Le Viadue. 
Le Trophée du Commerce. 


Glaces moulées. 


Dessert. 


Delmonico 





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- fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. 


1090 THE EPICUREAN, 


OCTOBRE, 1870. 


DINER DE 50 COUVERTS. 


En l’Honneur du Gouverneur Hoffman 
et de Son Etat Major. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Impériale. Tortue verte au Clair. 


HORS-D’HUVRE CHAUD. 
Croquettes de ris de veau. 
RELEVES. 


Bass rayé 4 la Manhattan. 
Filet de boeuf braisé aux champignons. 


ENTREES. 


Estomacs de poulet, sauce céleri. 
Ballotines d’agneau a la Créole. 
Homard farci a la Diable. 


Sorbet au Kirsch. 


Rots. 


Perdreaux sauce au pain. Grouses a la gelée de groseille. 


ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 


Pommes de terre Duchesse. Haricots verts 4 l’Anglaise. 
Tomates sautées. 


SUCRES. 


Timbale Madison (chaud). 


Gelée au Madeére. Charlotte Russe. 
Créme Francaise aux amandes. Corbeille meringues Chantilly. : 
Mille feuilles Pompadour. Gateau Breton. 


Glace Napolitaine. 


Piéces Montées. 


Dessert. 


Delmoniczs. 


1091 


DELMONICO’S MENUW’S. 


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1092 THE EPICUREAW. 


DECEMBRE, 1871. 


DINER DE 100 COUVERTS. 
£n l’Honneur de S. M. le Grand Duc Alexis. 


MENU. 
Huitres. : 


POTAGES. 


Consommé au Grand Due. 
Tortue verte au Clair. 


“HORS-D’GUVRE. 
Variés. 


POISSONS. 

Bass rayé Portugaise garni de filets d’éperlans frits, 
Saumon de Californie 4 la sauce Génevoise. 
RELEVE. 

Filet de boeuf a la Richelieu. 

ENTREES. 


Cételettes de chevreuil, sauce poivrade. 
Filets de perdreaux a l’Aquitaine. 
Terrapéne 4 la Maryland. 


FROID. 


Galantine de faisan 4 la Royale. 


Chaudfroid de bécasses en croustades & la gelée. 





Sorbet & la Régence. 





ROT. 
Canvas-back duck. 


ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 


Petits pois au beurre. Haricots flageolets. 


Artichauts 4la Provengale. : Choux fleurs au gratin, 
Pommes Duchesse. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 
Poires a la Florentine. 





Macédoine de fruits. Charlotte russe. 
Moscovite aux abricots. Bavarois rubané, 
Gateau mousseline. Coupole Chantilly. 
Glaces Napolitaine. Excellent au café. 


Piéces montées, 


Dessert. 


HPourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Dedmens. 


1093 


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1094 so TIE EPICUREAN. 


OCTOBRE, 1872. 
SoupER BUFFET ET ASSIS. 
Mr. Avuaust BELMONT. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé de volaille. 


Huitres 4 la béchamel aux truffes, 


Saumon, sauce ravigote vert-pré. 


Huitres farcies. 


Croquettes homard 4 la Victoria. 


Ragofit de Terrapéne. 


FROID. 


Filet de boeuf aux légumes. 


Galantine de dinde aux truffes. 


Paté de gibier de Colmar. 


Chapons. 


Gelée aux ananas. 
Gateau baba au rhum, 


Bavarois aux fraises. 


Mr. August Belmont. 


Chaudfroid de grouses. 
Cailles piquées & la gelée. 
Salade de volaille mayonnaise. 


Mayonnaise de homard. 


ROTIS CHAUDS. 


Dindonneaux. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES, 


Pain 4 la Reine. 
Gaufres Chantilly. 


Charlotte Parisienne. 


Petites glaces variées. 


Piéces Montées. 


Dessert. 


Servi par Delmonica 


aia 


1095 


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1096 THE EPICUREAN. 


MARS, 1873. 


DINER DE 12 COUVERTS. 


Survi p’uN SoUPER DE 80 PERSONNES. 
En l’honneur du Général Grant. 


M E N 1h 
Huitres. 


POTAGES. 

Consommé Pierre le Grand. Créme d’asperges. 
HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Timbales a la Montglas. 

POISSON. 
Truites de riviére a la Joinville. Pommes gastronome, 

RELEVE. 

Selle d’agneau a la Chanceliére.. 


ENTREES. 
Filets de canvas-back a l’Aquitaine. Petits pois. 
Grenades de volaille purée de marrons. Haricots verts. 


Aspies de foies-gras en Bellevue. 
Ballotines de pigeons. 
Sorbet a 1 Américaine. 

ROT. 
Poulets de grain truffés. 

ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUD. 

Péches a la Colbert. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS. 


Gelée aux fruits Sultane. Lait d’amandes. 
Piéces montées. 


Glaces moulées. 


Fruits. Dessert. 
SOUPER. 
CHAUD. . 
Consommé de volaille. Huitres béchamel aux truffes, 
Croquettes d’huitres Africaine. Timbales 4 l’écarlate. 


Truites de riviéres ravigote. 
Selle d’agneau de lait jardiniére. 
Escalopes de volaille 4 la Talleyrand. 
Ecrevisses 4 la Bordelaise. 


FROID. 
Voliére de faisans Anglais. Mayonnaise de volaille. 
Salade de homard. Aspics de foies-gras. 
CHAUD. 
Bécassines au cresson. Asperges nouvelles, 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUDS ET DESSERTS. 


Gelée d’oranges. _ Bavarois rubané. 
Gateau Impérial. Corbeille Chantilly. 
Glaces: Bacchus et le puits garni de Tortoni. 
Excellent au café. Petites glaces variées. 
Dessert. 


Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 


1097 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


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1098 


THK EPICUREAN. 


A BORD DU “CITY OF PEKING” DE LA PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 


AOUT, 1874. 


Hufs. 
Poissons. 


Entrées. 
Froid. 
Relevé. 
Entrées. 


Froid. 


Dessert. 


Potages. 
Hors-@euvre. 


Poissons. 


Entrées. 


Rots. 


Entremets. 


Dessert. 


Consommé en tasses. 


Froid. 


DEJEUNER—GOUTER—DINER—SOUPER. 


Pour 300 PERSONNES. 


DEJEUNER. 


Omelette aux fines herbes. C£ufsau jambon. (CEufs Soubise. 
Saumon grillé, maitre-d’hétel. Filets de soles 4 la Horly. 


Poulets frits, sauce tomate. Cdtelettes d’agneau purée de pommes, 
Rognons sautés aux champignons. Téte de veau vinaigrette. 


Beuf ala mode. Galantine ala gelée. Noix de veau piquées et glacées, 


GovrER. 


Selle d’agneau rotieal’ Anglaise. 
Poulet sauté aux pommes de terre et fonds d’artichauts. 
Sandwichs, jambon, langues, Longe de veau a la gelée. 


Fromages, fruits, compotes, café, thé. 


DINER. 


Consommé printanier. Tortue verte a l’Anglaise. 

Bouchées de homard. 

Bass rayé 4 l’Italienne. Salade de tomates. 

Maquereau Espagnol, sauce Colbert. Salade de concombres. 
Ris de veau macédoine. 

Pigeonneaux aux petits pois. 

Poulets sautés aux truffes. 

Cotes de boeuf. Yorkshire pudding. 

Bécasses. Chevreuil. 

Canards. Salade de laitue. 

Haricots de Lima. Mais en feuilles. 

Petits pois au beurre. 

Péches Condé. Meringues Chantilly. Glace vanille. 
Gaufres cigarettes. Devises. Bonbons. Fruits. Fromage, 
Compotes. Petits fours. 


SOUPER. 


Crabes moux frits, 
Pluviers grillés. 


Filet de boeuf. Galantine aux truffes. 


Salade de homard. 
Glaces Napolitaine. 


Servi par Delmonico. 





1099 


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DELMONICO’S MENUS. 2101 


JUILLET, 1876. 
DINER DE 40 CouUVERTS. 
En l’Honneur du Gouverneur Tilden, 


MENU. 


Lucines orangées. 


POTAGES, 
Consommé 4 la Talleyrand. Créme de pois verts, Saint Germain. 


HORS-D’GUVRE. 


Timbales 4 la Renaissance. 


RELEVES. 


Saumon a la Chambord. Pommes Duchesse. 
Selle d’agneau Salvandi. 


ENTREES. 


Poulets nouveaux Bagration. 
Petits pois 4 Anglaise. 
Cotelettes de pigeonneaux Signora. 
Fonds d’artichauts sautés. 
Ris de veau grillés, sauce Colbert. 


Chicorée 4 la créme. 





Sorbet Andalouse. 


ROT. 
Bécasses. Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Crofite aux ananas 4 la Victoria. 





Gelée aux fruits. Coupole Chantilly. 


Gateau Viennois. Gaufres de Carlsbad. 





Glace moulée le faisan garni de biscuits Tortoni. 


Excellent au café. 


Petits fours. Bonbons. Devises. Fruits. 


Charles Lallouette, Chef. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 


1102 THE EPICUREAN. 


DECEMBRE, 1877. 


BUFFET POUR 100 PERSONNES. 
PurIM BALL. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Bouillon. 
Croquettes de volaille. 


Bouchées de ris de veau. 


FROID. 


Galantine de dinde. 
Paté de gibier aux truffes. 
Salade de légumes langues. 
Mayonnaise de volaille. 
Perdreaux et cailles & la gelée. 


Sandwichs assortis. 


DESSERT. 
Gelée aux fruits. 
Bavarois aux péches. 
Gateau Mathilde. 
Meringues Chantilly. 
Glaces Napolitaine. 
Biscuits glacés. 
Tutti-frutti. 
Mousse aux marrons. 
Fruits. Petit fours. cae 
Piéces montées, 
Bonbons. Devises. 


Eug. Laperruque, Chef. Madison Square. Jelmonico, 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 1103 


AVRIL, 1878. 
DINER DE 225 COUVERTS. 
En !’'Honneur de Mr. Bayard Taylor, 


Ministre des Etats Unis a Berlin. 
MENU. 
Huitres, 
POTAGES, 
Oonsommé Washington. Tortue verte, 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Brissotins 4 la Richelieu. 


RELEVES. 


Saumon de Kennebeck, sauce crevettes. 
Pommes de terre Dauphine. 
Filet de boeuf au Madére. 
Tomates farcies. 


ENTREES. 


Estomacs de dinde & l’Impératrice. 
Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise. 
Escalopes d’agneau & la Chéron. 
Haricots flageolets, maitre-d’h6tel. 
Mignons de canards, sauce bigarade. 
Asperges en branches, sauce créme. 


Mais sauté au beurre. 





Sorbet Young America. 
ROTS. 


Chapons. Pigeonneaux. 


Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS SUCRKES. 


Pouding 4 la Masséna. 





Aspic de fruits. Charlotte Russe. 
Corbeille de meringues. Pain de péches Chantilly. 
Gateau noisettes. GAteau mille feuilles. 
Glaces mignonne. Dame blanche. 

Fruits. Petits fours. Bonbons. Devises. 


Hug. Laperruque, Chef. Madison Square. Delmonicé, 


1104 THE EPICUREAN. 


FEVRIER, 1879. 
DINER DE 14 COUVERTS. 
Mr. W. K. VANDERBILT. 


MENU. 


Huftres. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Rachel. Bisque d’écrevisses. 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Timbales Napolitaines. 


RELEVES. 


Escalopes de bass, Henri IV. Pommes de terre surprise. 


Selle de mouton Salvandi. 


ENTREES. 


Caisses de filets de poulet Grammont. 
Choux de Bruxelles. Petits pois a l’Anglaise, 
Sauté de filets de grouses Tyrolienne. 
Céleri au jus. 


Terrapene 4 la Colombia. 





Sorbet Aya-Pana. 


ROTS. 
Canvas-back duck. Cailles truffées, 


Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS SUOCRES. 


Pouding ala Humboldt. 





Gelée d’orange Orientale. Gaufres a la créme. 
Blanc manger rubané. Charlotte Victoria. 
Glaces fruits en surprise. Délicieux Impériale. 
Dessert. 


Madison Square. Delmonico. 


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1106 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER, 1880. 
DINER DE 82 CoUVERTS. 
En l’Honneur du Général Hancock. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 
POTAGES. 


Consommé Rachel. 


HORS-D’CUVRE. 


Brissotins au supréme. 


POISSONS. 


Bass rayé aux éperlans Dauphin. 
Pommes de terre Duchesse. 


RELEVES. 


Purée de volaille & la Reine. 


Filet de boeuf aux cépes. Selle de mouton & l’Anglaise. 


Epinards a l’Espagnole. 


ENTREES. 


Ailes de volaille 4 la Hongroise. 
Petits pois Parisienne. 
Cotelettes d’agneau maison d’Or. 
Haricots panachés. 


Fonds d’artichauts farcis aux champignons. 





Terrapéne en casserole 4 la Maryland. 





Sorbet Montmorency. 


ROTS. 


Canvas-back duck. 
Cailles bardées (salade laitues). 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Timbale Madison. 





Gelée Orientale. 
Glace Napolitaine. 


Piéces montées. 
Petits fours. Fruits. Café. 


Madison Square. 


Gaufres Chantilly. 


Mousse aux bananes. 


Liqueurs. 


Delmonico. 


DELMONICO’S MENUS, 1307 


MARS, 1880. 
DINER DE 230 COUVERTS, 
Mr. DE LESSEPs. 


MENU. 


Huitres sur coquilles. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Sultane. | Créme d’asperges Princesse. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Timbales Périgordines. 


RELEVES. 


Bass rayé a la Conti. Pommes Duchesse. 
Filet de boeuf a la Rossini. Tomates farcies. 


ENTREES. 
Supréme de volaille Lucullus. 
Petits pois 4 la Frangaise. 
Cotelettes d’agneau a la Signora. 
Haricots flageolets sautés. 
Salmis de bécassines Lithuanienne. 
Fonds d’artichauts Provengale, 


ENTREES FROIDES. 


Pain de gibier en Damier. Voliére de faisans. 
Aspics de foies-gras en Bellevue. Galantine de poulet aux truffes. 


Sorbet Montmorency. 


ROTS. 


Canvas-back. " Pigeonneaux. 
Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 
Crotite aux ananas. 


Gelée printaniére. Lait d’amandes rubané. 


Gaufres 4 la Chantilly. Gateau Sicilien. 
PIECES MONTEES. 


Glaces Napolitaine. Biscuits glacés. 


Dessert. 


Madison Square. Delmonseo. 


1108 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER, 1881. | 
BuFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. 


MENU. 


_ CHAUD. 


Bouilion de volaille. 

Huitres a& la poulette. 
Coquilles de pétoncles 4 la Brestoise. 
Dinde farcie aux marrons et aux truffes. 
Croquettes de volaille. 


Terrapénes. 


FROID. 


Filet de boeuf 4 la Varsovienne. 
Buisson de langues a la gelée. 
Galantine de chapon truffée. 
Aspies de perdreaux historiés. 
| Voliéres ae cailles. 
Salade de volaille au céleri. 
Mayonnaise de crevettes a la laitue. 
Petits pains garnis de Rillettes. 


Sandwichs assortis. 


ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Gelée aux oranges. Bavarois au café. 
Charlotte Doria. Gaufres a la créme. 
Gateau baba. Giteau Mathilde. 


GLACES. 


Petites glaces 4 la créme et aux fruits. 
Tutti-frutti. Parfait au café. 
Biscuits glacés. 
Fruits. ; Petits fours. 
Bonbons. Devises. 
Caisses et fruits glacés. 


Mr. Othout, #18 Madison Avenue. Servi par Delmonico. 


a 


1109 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


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1110 ~~ THE EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBRE, 1882. 
BUFFET POUR 40 PERSONNES. 
Mr. CHARLES DANA. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommé. de volaille. 


. Huitres béchamel. a _ Rissolettes Pompadour. 


; Croquettes panachées. 4 ane | 2 Huitres farcies. 


Bouchées au financier. | 


FROID. 


Dartie de saumon 4 la Russe. 
Filet de boeuf printaniére. 
Paté de gibier aux truffes. 


Ballotines de cailles en buisson. 


+ oN 


Chaudfroid de poularde a la gelée. 
Salade de homard. 
Mayonnaise de volaille. 


Sandwichs. 
Canapés. 
Rillettes. 
3 ENTREMETS SUCRES FROIDS. 
Gelée d’orange Orientale. Créme bavaroise 4 l’abricot. 
> Gaufres créme. + i _ > Charlotte Parisienne. 
Gateau Viennois. = = ~«=—- Ss = - @iteau noisettes. - 
. Pidces Montées. 
GLACES. 
Napolitaine. , Merveilleuse. Biscuit glacé. 
Tutti-frutti. Toronchino. 
Devises. Fruits. Petits fours. 
Bonbons. Dessert. 
Café. 


Mr. Charles Dana, No. 19 East 47th Street. 


Servi par Delmonico. 


JERE 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


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4112 


MARS, 1883. 


Menu d’un Diner Original de 


14 Couverts. 
Mr. BENSON 


J ohannisberg. 
Madeére. 


Chateau Y quem. 
Lacrima Christt. 


Chéteau Larose. 


Champagne Pommery. 
Champagne Perrier Jouzt 


Bourgogne Mousseux. 


Clos Vougeot. 


-p, -dison Square. 


THE EPICUREAN. 


BUFFET RUSSE. 


Canapés de caviar. Olives farcies. Céleri. 
Eperlans. Marinés radis. Canapés d’anchois. 
Saucisson de Lyon. Saucisson. 


Vermuth. Sherry et bitters. Absinthe. 


Huitres. 

Bisque de Lucines (clams). 

Potage A Doseille aux crotitons, 

Crabes d’huitres frits. Coneombres marinés, 
Timbales de sheepshead 4 |’ Ambassadrice. 
Homards grillés. Salade de tomates. 

Vol au vent d’animelles d’agneau financiére. 
Terrapéne désossée a la Newberg. | 
Filet de boeuf Brillat-Savarin. 

Croquettes de pommes de terre surprise. 
Casseroles de volaille au gourmet. . 

Quenelles de pigeonneaux aux Topinambours, 
Cotelettes d’agneau & l’Espagnole. 

Asperges nouvelles 4 I’huile et a la sauce Alcide. 
Champignons nouveaux sur crofites grillées, 
Soufflés au fromage. 

Sorbet, café et kirsch en écorce de fruits variés, 
Faisans Anglais rotis au cresson, 

Jambon grillé. Bananes frites. Salade laitue. 
Artichauts, sauce bavaroise. 

Pouding de fruits Sabayon Madére 

Glace cygne aux roseaux. 

Moulin A vent sur socle. 

Macédoine de fruits en bordure de Madeleine. 


Café. Liqueurs. 


Olives de Lucques. 


Maches. 


Dugmonico 


1113 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


‘oo uoWw)aqT ‘aupnby uosippyy 


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1114 ~  -*PHE BPICURBAN, 


MARS, 1884. 
DINER DE 150 COUVERTS. 
| “USQUE AD SUPEROS” 
L’ UNION DES TITANS 
Grand repas classique -et soirée Olympienne en Vhonneur de notre mere la Terre. 


MENU. 
Chablis Vieux. ee | Huitres sur copuittes. de Neptune. 
; POTAGE. 
Amontillado, — “ * 2 Consommé aux ceufs de Léda. 


HORS-D’UVRE. : : 
Céleri des Hespérides. wats -. Olives du Mont Ida. 
- Timbale A la Reine Junon. : 


| POISSON. 
Rudesheimer Berg. : Bass a la Méduse Divine. 
RELEVE, 
Cliquot doux. "Filet de boeuf A l’Hercule Antique. 
ENTREES. 
St. Pierre. Dinde aux trois Graces. 


Agneau aux sourires de Psyché, 


Cotelettes A l’Harmonie des Sirénes, 


—___ 





“ a a Sorbet aux plaisirs Olympiens, : 
Clos Vougeos. 2 >. “ Gensrd sauvage a la a upiter. | % 
_€ = Salade aux lartnes d’Hébé.* - 
k ; : clavirhe Tee Ne ; <f 
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Epinards abla fleur de Lotus. «: .: Pommes Ala Toison dor, + 


= “Sy “3 J oe 
- a ay 
= as 


-ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Crofites d’ananas 4 aux reflets de 'Enfer. Gelée aux raisins de Bacchus, 


Charlotte a a la Phineas. Gaufres 4 la Proserpine. 


Piéces Montées & la Moraine 


Vieux Porto. ; Glaces 4 la Vierge Vestale. 
Petits fours 4 l’Ambroisie Fruits au Mont Hélion. 
Fromage 4 la Flore. Café au Nectar Divin. 
Madison Square. 


Delmonico. . 


1115 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


*ooluowm ay 


‘9F%) 


‘aNZIE] Vp opeyeg 


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“OSTAQL], 8 & SoJeUIOT, 


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“PSST SAYIAOLIO 


deat 


1116 THER EBEPICUREAN. 


MAI, 1885. 
DINER DE 30 CoUVERTS. 
Mr. N. L. Turesiin (Ricouo). 


MENU. 
Chablis. Lucines (clams). 
POTAGES. 
Amontillado, 1834. Consommé Sévigné. Tortue verte A I’ Anglaise. 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Bressoles Chateaubriand. 


POISSONS, 


Scharzhofberger Saumon grillé 4 la Colbert. Concombrea. 
Auslese. Aiguillettes de kingfish Marguery. Pommes gastronome, 
RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf 4 la Richelieu Moderne. 
Selle d’agneau de lait aux laitues braisées. 


ENTREES. 


Rauzan. Paté chaud A la financiére. 
Ris de veau a la Théodora. 





_...Sorbet.a la_Montmorency. — _ 
ROTS. 
Poulets reine truffés 4 la Périgueux. 
Chambertin, Bécassines sur canapés au cresson. 


RELEVE. 


Soufflés au fromage. 


FROID. 
Aspics de foies-gras historiés aux truffes, 
Cliquot Doux. Homard rémoulade & la gelée. 
ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 
Artichauts 4 la Duxelle Asperges & l’Allemande, 
ENTREMETS SUCRES. 


Créme frite 4 l'Augusta (chaud). 


Charlotte de pommes aux abricots (chaud). 
Gaufres créme marasquin. Tartelettes aux cerisea. 


PIECES MONTEES. 


Fruits frais. Fraises Compotes. 
Fromage. Amandes salées. Bonbons. 
Devises Fruits cristallisés. Marrons ratis. 
Liqueurs. Café 


Madison Square. Delmonico. 


A117 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


‘ON1UOU a 


“q1essaqq ‘samenbr'T 
‘sino 4a suldy] op ginojue ye8nou ua aIqry 
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“CQST “ATH AT A 


1118 THE EBPICUREBAN. 


MARKS, 1886. 
DINER DE 200 CoUVERTS. 


FRIENDLY SONS OF St. PATRICK. 


MENU. 
Huitres. 


di POTAGES. 
Consommé Impériale. -~ Bisque d’écrevisses. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 


Timbales Diplomate. 


_ POISSON. - 


Saumon, sauce Hollandaise vert-pré. 
Eperlans frits. Pommes Viennoise. 


RELEVE, 
Haricots verts sautés. 


Filet de boeuf Napolitaine. 
ENTREES, 


Tomates farcies. 


Ris de veau chevreuse. 
Petits pois Frangaise, 


Escalopes de bass A la Joinville 


Sorbet Monthiére. 


Canards A téte rouge. Salade de laitue. 
‘ Salade de crabes mavonnaise. 
| -  _ENTREMETS sSuCRES. 
: Pouding Impératrice. 
Charlotte Parisienne, 


: Gelée aux mirabelles. 


4 s* a 
Mahal Gi 


Piéces montées. 
Biscuits glacés. 


Glare créme pralinée. 
Dessert. 


Fruits. 
Café. 


Madison Square. 


Delmonus. 


~ 


13349 


DE}F.MONICO’S MENUS, 


ootuowmjaq] 


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‘9881 ‘YAIANVI ke ‘9881 “AUIWLAON 


1120 _~ THE EPICUREAN 


NOVEMBRE, 1887. 
DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. 
St. ANDREWS SOCIETY. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES,. 


Consommé Deslignac. 


HORS-D’UVRE, 


Timbales Reine. 


POISSON. 


Saumon, sauce Hollandaise vert-pré. 


RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf aux champignons. 


ENTREES. 
Poularde & la Chevreuse. 


Caisse de ris de veau Italienne. 
Haggis a l’Ecossaise. 


Sorbet Impériale. 








Tortue verte au Clair. 


Pommes & la Viennoise, 
Choux de Bruxelles. 


Petits pois au beurre. 


Haricots verts a l’Anglaise. 


ROT, 
Canards a téte rouge. Salade de laitue. 
ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR, 
Pouding aux bananes. 
Gelée aux cerises, Charlotte Russe. 
Glaces fantaisie variées. 
Piéces montées. 
Fruits. Petits fours. 


Café. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sizth Street. 


1121 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


‘Ooruoujad 


‘onjIe] Op epereg 


70.109 49428-Ayuam,y pub duonby iiosippy 


‘958 
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1122 THE 


AVRIL, 1888. 


DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. 
Oxto SocIETY. 


Consommé Deslignac. 


EPICUREAN. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 
Créme d’asperges.. 


HORS-D’(EUVRE. 


Timbales a la Mentana. 


POISSON. 


' Saumon sauce crevettes. 


Pommes a |’ Anglaise. 


RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf A la Chevrelat. 


~ Tomates farcies. 


ENTREES. 


Chapons & la Lyonnaise. 


Petits pois au beurre. 
Croquettes de homard a la Victoria. 


Bécassines bardées. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. . , + 


Fruits. 


. Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. 





Sorbet Régence. 


ROT. 
Salade de Jaitue, - 


Savarin aux cerises. in? 
e 


Glaces Napolitaine. 


Petits fours. 
Café. 


Delmonico 


1123 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


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1124 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER, 1889. 
DINER DE 250 COUVERTS. 


Annual Dinner given by the Superintendent, 


Inspectors and Captains of the 
New York Police. 


MENU. 


POTAGES, 


Consommé Rémusat. Bisque d’écrevisses. 


HORS-D’UVRE. 


Timbales a la Périgordine. 


POISSON. 


Saumon, sauce Hollandaise vert-pré. 


Pommes a la Rouennaise. 


RELEVES. 


Filet de boeuf aux champignons. 


Tomates au gratin. 


ENTREES. 


Dinde farcie aux marrons. Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise, 


Caisse de ris de veau Grammont. Haricots panachés. 


Canvas-back duck. 


Gelée au Centerha. 


Fruits. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. 





Sorbet Royale. 





ROTS. 


Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Pouding Schiller. 
Gaufres a la créme. 
Piéces montées. 


Glaces fantaisie. 


Petits fours. 
Café. 


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1126 


JANVIER, 1890. 
DiNER DE 200 COUVERTS. 
SEcoND PANEL SHERIFF’S JURY. 





Consommé Bourdaloue. 


‘HORS-D’UVRE. 
Timbales ala Reine. 


I 


POISSON. 


Saumon sauce homard. | 

Pommes de terre Duchesse. 

, RELEVES. pik , 

Filet de bouf Périgueux, - Choux de Bru 
ENTREES. | 

Poulet braisés a la Lyonnaise. 


Ris de veau sauce tomates Andalonse. 
Haricots flageolets sautés. via 


Sorbet Dalmatie. 





; | ROT, 
: Canvas-back ducks. 
or: - Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Crofites aux poires. 





Piéces montées. 


Glaces fantaisie. | 


Fruits. 
| Café. 


‘Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. FIST 


JANVIER, 1890. 
DinER DE 220 Couverts, 
Hote. Men’s Associarvion, 


MENU. 


POTAGES, 


Consommé St. Germain. 
Bisque d’Ecrevisses Dumont Durville, 
HORS-D’CEUVRE. 


Petites timbales A la Soubise. 


POISSONS. 


Aiguillettes d’halibut a la Dugléré, 
Eperlans frits. Pommes Viennoise. 


RELEVES. 
Filet de boeuf 4 l’Aquitaine, 


Petits pois Parisienne. 


ENTREES, 


Ailes de poulet 4 la Génin., 
Macédoine St. Cloud. 
Ris de veau purée de marrons, » 


Aubergines frites. 





Sorbet Marquise. 


ROT. 


Canards a téte rouge. 


FROID. 


Terrine de foies-gras de Strasbourg. 


Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Crotites aux ananas. 


Piéces montées. 
Glaces fantaisie. 


Fruits. Petits fours, 
Café. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street, Deimonieo. 


4328 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER, 1891. 
BUFFET ASSIS POUR 800 PERSONNES. 
Tue ‘“‘ PATRIARCHS.”” 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 


Consommeé. 
Huitres Viennoise. 
Croquettes de chapon. 
Bouchées aux crevettes. 
- Terrapéne a la Maryland. 
Café et thé. 


FROID. 


Filet de boeuf Francillon. 


Galantine de poulet 4 l’Anglaise. 
Terrine de Nérac aux truffes. 
Aspic de foies-gras décoré. 
Dinde en daube a i’Ancienne. 
Cailles piquées réties au cresson. 
Salade de homard. 
Mayonnaise de volaille. 
Sandwichs. Rillettes. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Gelée aux oranges. 
Brisselets 4 la Chantilly. 
Gateau Madeleine. 


Bavarois aux abricots. 


Piéces montées. 


Glaces fantaisie. 
Montélimar. 


Bonbons. Devises. Fruits. 


Dessert. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. 


Canapés. 


Tutti-frutti. 
Biscuit Diplomate. 


Petits fours. 


Delmonico, - 


1129 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


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1130 THE HPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBRE, 1892. 


DINER DE 250 COUVERTS. 
Offert 4 Honorable Grover Cleveland. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé 4 la Grammont. Bisque d’écrevisses. 


HORS-D’CEUVRE. 


Timbales Renaissance. 


POISSON. 


Aiguillettes de bass Masséna. 
Concombres. Pommes Viennoise. 


RELEVE. 
Filet de boeuf Condé. Tomates Trévise. 


ENTREES. 


Ailes de volaille supréme aux truffes. 
Petits pois Parisienne. 


Terrapéne Baltimore. 


Sorbet Columbus. 


ROT. 
Oanvas-back ducks, 


FROID. 
Foies-gras 4 la gelée. Salade de laitua 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Pommes au praslin. 
Pieces montées. 


Glaces fantaisie. 


Fruits. Petits fours. 
Café. 


fdadison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonico. 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 1131 


AVRIL, 1892. 


DiNER DE 200 Couverts. 


Donné par la Chambre de Commerce en 
Vhonneur de Mr. WarreLaw REID. 


MENU. 
Sherry and Bitters. 3 Huitres, 
Haut Sauterne. POTAGES. 


Consommé Berchoux, 


Sherry Princesse. Tortue verte au clair, 


HORS-D’QUVRE. 


Timbales 4 la Dumas. 


POISSON. 


Diedesheimer. Saumon 4 la Royale. 


Pommes Duchesse. 


RELEVE. 


Champagne, Filet de boeuf & la Périgueux. 


Choux-fleurs au gratin. 


ENTREES. 
Ailes de poulet Montebello, 
Chateau Lagrange. Petits pois a l’Anglaise. 


Terrapéne a la Baltimore. 
Sorbet Impériale. 


A 


ROT. 


Beaujolais. Pluviers bardés. 


FROID. 
Terrine de foies-gras a la gelée. Salade. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 
Savarin aux ananas. 


Gelée aux fruits. Meringues Chantilly. 
Piéces montées. 
Liqueurs. Glaces de fantaisie. 
Fruits. Petits fours. Café. 


I ico. 
Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmoni 


1132 THE EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER, 1892. 
DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. 
First PANEL SHERIFF'S JURY. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 
Consommé Deslignac. Tortue verte claire. 


HORS-D’(EUVRE. 


Bouchées Chevreuse. 


POJSSON. 


Saumon de l’Orégon, sauce Montebello, 
Pommes de terre Duchesse. 


RELEVE. 


Selle de mouton Anglaise, 
Epinards au velouté. 


ENTREES, 


Poulardes farcies aux truffes. 
Petits pois a4 l’Anglaise. 
Ris de veau en caisses 4 la Grammont. 
Haricots panachés. 





Sorbet Impériale. 


ROT. 


Canards a téte rouge. 


FROID. 


Terrine de foies-gras de Strasbourg, 


Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR, 


Poires 4 la Judie. 


Piéces montées. 


Glaces Napolitaine. | Petits fours. 
Café. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonteo. 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 








1133 
FEVRIER, 1892. 
DiNER DE 9 COUVERTS. 
GENERAL Horace Porter. 
MENU. 
Huitres. 
POTAGES. 
Consommé Condorcet. Bisque de crevettes. 
HORS-D’CEUVRE. 
Variés. Variés. 
POISSON, 
Bass rayé 4 l’Amiral. Pommes Dauphine. ' 
RELEVE. 
Selle de Chevreuil Tyrolienne. 
Aubergines frites. 
ENTREES. 
Filets de poulet Toulouse. Petits pois 4 Anglaise. 
Terrapéne Baltimore. 
Sorbet au Champagne. 
ROT. 
Canard & téte rouge. Salade de laitue. 
ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR, 
Plum pouding au rhum. 
Froite. Petits fours, 
Café, 
Delmonico. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sizth Street. 


1134 ie THE EPICUREAN. 
MENU. 
Huitres 
Potayges 
Consommé, Souveraine -Tortue verte & Vanglaise 


Hors d'oenure 
Timbales, Périgourdine 


Poisson 
Bass rayée, Massena 
Pommes de terre, fondantes 
Releue 
Filet de boeuf aux olives farcies 
Tomates, Trévise 


LCutrees 
Chapon a l’Amphitryon 
Petits pois, parisienne 


Térrapéne 4 la Newberg 


SORBET TULIPE 


Rot 
Canvas-back Duck Cailles 
Froid 
Terrine de foie-gras 
Salade de laitue 


Lntremets de doucenr 
Pommes 4 la Condé 








Gelée aux oranges Gaufres, Chantilly Piéces montées 

Glaces fantaisies , 

Fruits Dessert Petits fours . 

Café 

Mardi, le 21 Novembre, 1893. DELMONICO’S. 

penne o eens Chamber of Commerce of the State of Hew-York. \ 
ay ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FLFTH ANNUAL BANQUET, ~ “e 
= DELMONICO’S, TUESDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 2104. 1693.. a \ 

BiGinGaueny of wawscag and. quadTbo ; Sere 

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DELMONICO’S MENUS. 


MAT, 1893. 


DiNER DE 14 CoUVERTS. 


Columbus Centennial Diner en l’Honneur de 
S. A. L le Prince de Russie. 


MENU. 


BUFFET. 


Canapés d’anchois. Caviar. Olives. 
3 Tartelettes de homard. 
Lucines (clams). 


POTAGES. 
Consommé a la Souveraine, 


Créme d’asperges. 


HORS-D’UVRE CHAUD. 


Timbales au Prince Impérial. 


POISSON. 


Truites de riviére, sauce Hollandaise vert-pré, 
Pommes de terre fondantes. 


RELEVE. 


Selle d’agneax aux fritadelles. 
Tomates 4% la Reine. 


ENTREES. 


Thon mariné, 


Ailes de poulet 4 1a Lucullus. — Petits pois 4 la Parisienne. 


Champignons sous cloche. 





Sorbet bouquetiere a la Russe. 
ROT. 
Pigeonneaux au cresson. 
FROID. 
Mousse de foies-gras en bordure. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Savarin aux ananas. 


Glace pouding Romanoff. 


Fruits. 
Café. 


Offert par Mr. F. 8. Smith. 


Petits fours. 


$135 


Delmonico. 


1136 THE EPICUREAN. 


AVRIL, 1893. 
DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. 
St. GeorRGE SocIEtTy. 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 


Consommé Souveraine. Créme St. Germain. 


HORS-D’GUVRE. 


Timbales a 1’Ecarlate. 


POISSON. 
Bass rayé au gratin. Pommes de terre Viennoise. 


RELEVE. 
Baron de boeuf Yorkshire pouding. 
Pommes de terre roties. 


Tomates farcies. 


ENTREES. 
Pigeonneaux a la Chevreuse. 
Petits pois 4 l’Anglaise. 


Asperges sauce créme. 





Sorbet Régence. 


ROT. 


Chapons. Salade d’escarolle. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Plum pouding St. George. 


Piéces montées. 


Charlotte Russe. Gelée au Madére. 
Glaces fantaisie. 
Fruits. Petits fours. 
Café. 


Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmontco. 


a 


DELMONICO’S MENUS. 1137 


NOVEMBRE, 1893. 


DiNER OFFERT PAR 
Mr. L. C. DELMOoNICO A 


Mr. JEAN CHARLES CAZIN, 


MENU. 
Haut Sauterne. Huitres. 
POTAGES. 
Amontillado. Consommé a la Daumont. Bisque d’écrevisses. 


HORS-D’QUVRE. 
Mousseline Chantilly. 


POISSONS. 


Hochheimer. Aiguillettes de bass Mornay gratin, 


Pommes de terre fondantes, 


RELEVES. 
Chat. Lagrange. Selle d’agneau tardif 4 la Colbert, 
Fonds d’artichauts Florentine. 


ENTREES. 
Terrapéne a la Maryland. 
Vol au vent de ris de veau financiére, 


Petits pois 4 la Parisienne. 





Sorbet ‘‘ Elsinore.” 


ROTS. 


Chambertin. Canvas-back duck, hominy et currant zelée, 
Chapons farcis aux truffes et marrons. 


FROID. 


Petits aspics de foies-gras. 
Salade de laitue. 


ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 


Krug Sec. Beignets Alliance, sauce abricots. 


GLACES. 
Cygne aux roseaux. 
Liqueurs. Lapin en surprise. 


Fruits. Petits fours. 
vero Café, 


Delmoni 
Madison Square and Twenty-sizth Street. elmonico. 


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= paste, candied, + sive blawiselebydescecces 
ta pistachios or filberts, to peel. Ricca ne 
— salted..... Ristslae cers (é Lekyse tiPis vein 6 ao ee 0.8 

_— to chop or shred. . s heeeide spied 
_ — to pound, crush or Pole. Uivieiels « visis oe . 


Anchovies, fried. bf Rwesbawes cies. 


Be Arter: er eee ais Wiptewje'peieie ei os.ess 
— salad... . 
a with olives 5s eae re Ree cate Seas. os 
Angel fish a a la Bahama. rooelt « F xcasda bitin weve 
Antelope, saddle, Huntress style........ 


Appetizers and mixed.drinks............ 


Apples a la Giudici................ srele 
E--ia Ja Welson. oi... . cee ees ee 
.— baked. et eee rete; oss ole eG vvie's 
— Baron de Brisse style.. 


Bee——browned (Hig. 57 2)s: 0. .isicn ss esse vias ce 
HAH tee see 5a ee neice 


ett tOCG (N10 1000). 's pa'sinid | ons cece ees 
glazed, marmalade, ‘of........ te owe tie 
— in surprise. * 
— Nubian, meringued......... Wie slaaiole's 
pal With VANILLA. «6, - nos ode sees 

j — Portuguese: so eve teweude css Wielaatente 
— purée, frothy, of; apple syrup... ... 
— with burnt almonds............0.00% 
— with butter.......... TETTT TTT 
Apricots 4 la Jefferson .........e0s0e00. 
BOR PAS OLS iy. crock copes goer verses 
-— with cream of almonds........e0.00. 
Arabian racahout............ Musargeel es 
Artichoke bottoms 4 la Florence. 
— bottoms a la Jussienne.... 
— bottoms a la Montglas........-..0++- 
— bottoms ala Mornay...... iinaeaecee 
— bottoms a la Soubise...... Paks nas 
— bottoms @ la Villars.........ceeecees 
— bottoms fried..........- sseeeceeees 
— bottoms Printanier...... Sapir ee wink’ Ae 
~-- bottoms, stuffed—lean......... «+++ 
— bottoms with baked cauliflower ..;.. 


PaGeE. 


ce 


1066 | 
367 
355 
169 | 


1046 
169 
182 
169 


285 
201 
1034 
169 
1058 


169 


169 
457 
368 
B55 
300 
427 
668 
1065 
873 
873 
873 
_ 84 
874 
948 


907 
-.908 
874 


874 
875 
875 
908 
875 
875 
875 
954 
948 
1059 
815 
815 
815 
816 
816 
816 
816 
855 
816 
816 


kk 
(1139) 





Artichoke bottoms with cream béchamel. 
— bottoms with marrow....:........4. 
— quartered, Colbert, marrow, Villeroi. 

_— whole & la Barigoule(Figs. 542 to rac: 
—~ whole aJaiRacheloo7i. 08 5 oy 3 
-— whole, boiled, with white sauce. or 
Vinaigrette SAUCE: ..... esc ee ees 
— whole small appetite............ 
— whole small raw poivrades...... wees 
Asparagus boiled, Hollandaise or Mousse- 
HGR AER CE hath os be eats istic shite 
— Countess style—heads ............. 
— in small bunches—heads............ 
— tops & la Mainténon . 2.1.0... 0.000 
— tops a la Miranda—fried ............ 
— tops. with Gheese li ccs ice os diets : 

Aspic essence—hot....... Pes b> Pirie 

— of cocks’-combs and kidneys a la Maza- 


— of foies- PRES ctu clpa w aynlests seater oteitie wo 
— of foies-gras—small (Fig. 446) ose =r) 


.i(— of foies-gras in terrine—whole eee 


oo of lobster (Fig. sl asia tet a oa oe Re ret 
.ip—. of oysters... ioe. 2id PERM. ia vee ‘ 


— of mT oe an aie fillets Fig: 449). 


Pie OL DUDASAUE i cw anne cielo ules Diced ors «bare re 


‘je Of. pallet & la Cussy. cit... ce ect 
.— of quails—breasts............00 0008 . 
‘— of tongues a la Picquart (Fig. 450).... 
— of veal,, Macédoine artichokes—kernel 
‘— of shrimps—small. 
Attéreaux of beef palate (Fig. 214)....... 
— of chicken a Ja D’Antin:..:..2.......% 
po OL fab very Girth a saawe veces ce was 
_S— Of OYSEETS. 0... cc cececr ec occcess eeu 
— Piedmotitese ........ceveceesccvewre 
'— of sweetbreads a.la Modarien 
— of turkey or ZAME....... ee eeeoeeees 
Baha (see cakes).........cceeesvescssece 
— PASTE. ccs sce e scene cece cree eeneece 
— with Marsala; preparation of fruits.. 
— with rum—small..... be bialathate era's alee 
Bacon, smoked, with spinach, English style 


ese eee ew ee ereee 


Bakery (Plate).........2--++sssceeeees a 
Ballotines of lamb, cupola-shaped....... 
— quails a la Tivolier.........-++++++- 
— squabs & Ja Madison (Figs. 452, 453). 
Bananas, cherry sauce, fried.........++- 
‘Baskets filled with candied » or ice cream 
FPUNS ang inie's Usbrlldgee edition oe wbiebte 

— of nougat with cream (Fig. 587)... . 


PAGE. 
ato RY Fn 
817 
817 
817 
818 


818 
356 
856 


818 
818 
819 
819 
- 819 
819 
290 


1140 THE EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Baskets of oranges with jelly............ 909 = Beef noisettes (see tenderloin).......e.e+. 
Bass, black, 4 la Narragansett............ 427 — oxtails (see oxtails)........ Wo. Saeeers = 
— black, aiguillettes, with oyster crabs. 427 — palates a la béchamel......... onthe 
— black, with sweet peppers........... 427 — palates Chevreuse—baked........ eer 
— red; water fish... .:+. 23.1: sn ete ees 428 — palates escalops with purée of chest- 
— sea, ala Villeroi............... eT et =| nuts (Fig. 422)". -.% 2.0800 aie 

— sea, with almond butter............. 428 — palates in tortue.......... 3 Ree 
— striped, a la Berey—rock bass (Fig.285) 428 —ribsa la Bristed............... ovine 

— striped, & la Conti............s0000. 429 — ribs a l’Hindostan................ : 
— striped, a la Laguipierre............ 429 — ribs, American style — thirty - two 
— striped, a la Long Branch............ 429 pounds <5... .% ss oes eee 
— striped, 4 la Maintenon............ . 429 — ribs—cold (see ribs of beef)......... , 
— striped, a la Manhattan, or seabass.. 731 — ribs, old style........... se eee 
— striped, 4 la Masséna—whole.... ... 429 — ribs, spare, deviled............. ..- P 
— striped, a la Mornay.............00. 430 — round buttock top a la ee Parisian 
— striped, a la Rouennaise............. 430 - etyle - 57.2 see fe 
— striped, 4 la Whitney........ ...... 430 — round buttock top, baked............ 
— striped, boiled, Hollandaise modern — round buttock top, smothered........ 
SAUCE! See cee ace ore 430 — rump, a la Boucicault.......... ge 
— striped, shrimp sauce with fried scal- — rump, 4 la Caréme............. aes 
LOPS on 225 5. Shee Coen ea eee 430 — rump, a la Chatellier................ 
— striped, with fine herbs.............. 480 — rump, a la mode, Bourgeoise style... 
— striped, with white wine—baked..... 431 — rump, Flemish style........... .... 
Bastion 4 l’Americaine (Fig. 454)........ 732 — rump, Greek style; stuffed tomatoes.. 
Bateaux of fat livers, Russian style..... . 369 — rump, Jardiniére.. .............e05 
Battersyirying oo cathion.. ees eee 208 — rump, Mirotons 4 la Ménagére........ 
Bavarois, chocolate, . 5.2.6... ..s0cccce ee 909 — rump, modern style—braised (Fig. 305) 
ome AYE BUTPTISG fio ae cepues oh wisipieriee eee 909 — middle short loin, English siyle (Fig. 
ei TASPDEITY «0 ss0sds os see's oe one Morea ee B08)... 0554.4 SS, OS 
ms WANG os crahe way aie sateiaate nie Re abe setae . 909 — middle short loin 4 la Messinoise— 
— with chestnuts...... BMA Aerd ark 910 braised oy... .. 2's +s «hy 
—wWwith meringues, .. ......0secccresees 909 — middle short loin a la Norwood,..... 
Bavaroise (drink) ........-...ccccccccece 283 — sirloin, 4 la Bradford; corn fritters and 
Beans, fresh, with cream and English style 819 croquettes: 2.5 ..5 Vises ge oe 
— Lima or kidney beans, maitre-d’hotel. 819 — sirloin, 4 la Dauphiness............. 
-— red, smothered.........0....2stbbeuese 820 — sirloin, ala Dégrange; carrots and peas 
— string, & VAlhaniy sv ioc. ss coe cte ss 841 and fried celery..............0. 
— string, ala Bourguignonne.......... 842 — sirloin, 4 la De Lesseps (Fig. 307).... 
— string, 4 la Pettit... ......... ccc cece 842 — sirloin, a la Perrin................ es 
— string; marinated; < 7.23... ss. «sien ee 366 — sirloin, ala Thieblin...............; 
— string, smothered............ss0022. 842 — sirloin, with brain patties............ 
— string, with butter.................. 842 — sirloin, with chicory and souffléd sweet 
— white, Bretonne: . 5.0 6... i. ewes dele 820 potatoes, .. 00... 192.0. ee eee 
— white, thickened, maitre-d’hétel...... 820 — sirloin, with Jerusalem artichokes... . 
Bear steaks, broiled................ 00s 637 — smoked, round top, with cream...... 
Beef, American and French cuts (Figs. 302, — steak, chopped, Salisbury........... 
DNB, BOS): hy iat Al Potato ee Pee 472 — steak, Hamburg style............ ves 
— baron, 4 la St. George.............. 471 — steak, Hamburg and a la Tartare..... 
— brains (see calf’s brains)............. 507 — steak, porterhouse (Fig. 308)...... ia: 
— breast or brisket, a la Florence...... 471 — steak, porterhouse, a la Sanford — 
— breast, corned, with cabbage........ 471 double «is cox s:<ineteeae a ee 
— corned, round bottom, top, English — steak, rib, dla Bercy... ...0.... cease 
style...... dieses Salta es Meme aEaS A473 — steak, rib, a la Royer (Fig. 309) ..... 

— corned, pressed—cold.............05 733 — steak, round, with water-cress....... 
— edge or aitchbone boiled, cream horse- — steak, rump, a la Villageoise........ 
radish: BAUCE. cid beens sen cis ae eee 474 — steak, sirloin, a la Béarnaise—small. . 
— grenadins (see tenderloins).......... 489 — steak, sirloin, a la Bordelaise—small.. 
— hash, corned beef, American style... 693 — steak, sirloin, a la Bordelaise with mar- 
— kidneys (see veal kidneys)........... 517 row—small ....... Vea eae 
— Kulash a la Finnoise................ 474 — steak, sirloin, 4 la Bordelaise with 
—— marrow bones on toast.........e.e8. 474 marrow and truffles—small...... 


_ = minions (see tenderloin)............. 491 — steak, sirloin, ancient style.......... 


INDEX. 


PaGE. 
Beef steak, sirloin, plain, twelve ounces 
WR MD ee oS he has da!en wc . 486 
— steak, sirloin, with butter and fine 
Be Me eg ek wo 487 
— steak, sirloin, Delmonico — plain, 
Bae EW OUMNCOS og coos ss inchs nee c 487 
— steak, sirloin, Delmonico, a la Péri- 
TANI 2 te a eee a 487 
— steak, sirloin, Delmonico, Spanish style 
Uap OTR OR Te ei oe aa 487 
— steak, sirloin, for gourmets—extra, 
forty ounces (Fig. 312)........... 487 
— steak, tenderloin (see tenderloin)..... 495 
— tenderloin—to prepare.............. 488 
— tenderloin, Chateaubriand — plain, 
twenty ounces (Fig. 318)......... 488 
— tenderloin, Chateaubriand, Colbert 
Ps is Ee Sear 488 
— tenderloin, Chateaubriand, maitre- 
d’hotel sauce thickened.......... 488 
— tenderloin Chateaubriand with souffléd 
potatoes—double; two and a half 
DOONOS es sis sas 1 ee ae 489 
— tenderloin cutlets a la Babanine...... 687 
— tenderloin cutlets a la Bienville..... 687 
— tenderloin escalops with truffles (Fig. 
Le Ape Sa ao 690 
' — tenderloin grenadins a Ja Beaumar- 
BMRIS oe oi cco: 3488 {aS 489 
— tenderloin grenadins a la Boniface... 489 
— tenderloin grenadins a la Halévy..... 489 
a tenderloin grenadins as venison, poiv- 
Os SATE ee, Se ee 489 
— tenderloin grenadins, Mare Aurele.... 490 
— tenderloin grenadins, Paladio.. ..... 490 
— tenderloin grenadins, plain; five ounces 
RESO ae tig Winaaic ajo s a3 0 - 489 
— tenderloin grenadins, Prévillot....... 490 
— tenderloin grenadins, Rochambeau.. 736 
—tenderloin grenadins with celery 
UST TTS) nt 490 
— tenderloin grenadins with round pota- 
toes, Valois sauce... .........6- 490 
—tenderloin grenadins, with sweet 
ee iC waivers 3 ays bee sees 490 
— tenderloin minced a la Andrews...... 491 
— tenderloin minced a la Beekman..... 491 
— tenderloin minced, Creole style...... 491 
— tenderloin minced, with potato cro- 
Oe Ea ats ae e's sys oom s-e. 491 
— tenderloin minions a la Baillard...... 491 
— tenderloin minions & la Chéron....... 491 
— tenderloin minions ala Dumas; ham 
SUSE S Ole OE Pee eee ae 492 
— tenderloin minions a la Fearing...... 492 
— tenderloin minions a la Meyerbeer.... 492 
— tenderloin minions a la Salvini....... 492 
— tenderloin minions 4 la Stanley...... 492 
— tenderloin minions ala Vernon...... 493 
— tenderloin minions, plain (Fig. 315).. 491 
— tenderloin minions with cépes a la 
Ha OT! Oe ee ee 493 


+ 


Beef tenderloin minions with chestnuts, 
Marsala isptice: hse cnis kyon 

— tenderloin noisettes 4 la Berthier..... 
— tenderloin noisettes 41a Bonnefoy.... 
— tenderloin noisettes 4 la Fleurette ... 
— tenderloin noisettes 4 la Magny...... 
— tenderloin noisettes a la Maire....... 
— tenderloin noisettes & la Nicoise...... 
— tenderloin noisettes a la Rossini...... 
— tenderloin noisettes in surprise...... 
— tenderloin noisettes, plain (Fig. 316). . 
— tenderloin noisettes, Triumvir........ 
— tenderloin noisettes with purée of 
SMUSUTOONIS fom oy ce ee 

— tenderloin paupiettes with cooked fine 
herb qMips S17) oe orn cl aeeen ate 

— tenderloin pilau 4 la Reglain........ 
— tenderloin potted 4 la Nelson........ 
— tenderloin pudding with oysters..... 
— tenderloin steak, plain, broiled or 
sautéd, ten ounces (Fig. 318)..... 

— tenderloin steak with anchovy butter. 
— tenderloin steak with Madeira, half 


— tenderloin steak with mushrooms.... 
— tenderloin steak with olives..... ... 


— tenderloin tournedos 4 la Brétigny... 
— tenderloin tournedos 4 la Flavignan, 

with small stuffed tomatoes...... 
— tenderloin tournedos a la Hutchings, 

horseradish croquettes........... 
— tenderloin tournedos a la Laguipierre. 
—- tenderloin tournedos a la Marietta... 
— tenderloin tournedos a la Roqueplan. 
— tenderloin tournedos a la Talabasse. . 
— tenderloin tournedos a la Victorin.... 
— tenderloin tournedos, plain (Fig. 319) 
— tenderloin tournedos with raisins. ... 
— tenderloin tournedos with string beans 
— tenderloin al’Ambassade—whole .... 
— tenderloin a la Bareda—whole....... 
— tenderloin a la la Bayonnaise—whole 
— tenderloin a Bernardi—whole........ 
— tenderloin ala Bienvenue—whole.... 
— tenderloin a la Bouquetiére—whole. . 
— tenderloin a la Cauchoise—whole.... 
— tenderloin a la Chanzy—whole (Fig. 


— tenderloin a la Condé—whole........ 
— tenderloin a la d’Aurelles—breaded 
and browned in the oven—whole 
— tenderloin ala d’Orleans—whole..... 
— tenderloin a la Evers—whole.....,. 
— tenderloin a la Godard—whole....... 
— tenderloin a la Lucullus—whole (Fig. 
NTE eR AR RS Aime Aa We mer 
— tenderloin a la Melinet—whole...... 
— tenderloin a la Milanese—whole...... 
— tenderloin a la Montebello—whole... 
— tenderloin a la Noailles—whole...... 


1141 


PaGE, 


493 
493 
493 
494 
494 
494. 
494. 
494. 
494 
493 
494. 


495 


495 
495 
701 
701 


495 
495 


496 
496 
496 
496 
496 
496 


497 


497 
497 
497 
497 
498 
498 
496 
498 
498 
498 
499 
499 
499 
499 
734 
500 


500 
500 


500 
501 
734 
501 


734 
501 
501 
501 
733 


1142 
ee ; re aes 
Beef tenderloin 2 la printanigre—whole 
(Fig. 821). whee. yey Ary ae .- 504 
— tenderloin a la Richelieu, modern— si 
Whales tobe ee oi us arenes os ~* 502 
-— tenderloin a la Rothschild—whiole... 502 
— tenderloin a la Royal—whole.. crate ts ~ 602 
— tenderloin 4 la Solohub—whole...... 502 
— tenderloin 3 la Travers—whole...... 503 
, — tenderloin a ja Violetta—whole...... 735 
— tenderloin, braised with roots—whole | 503 
— tenderloin, Huntress style—whole... 503 
ee - tenderloin, Indian style—whole. fob ' 508 
—_ - tenderloin, - Neapolitan style—whole. ? 502 
——— — tenderloin with SE saatied Macédoine 
c Whole eee ee ~~ 736 
nae tenderloin with truffles—wholeé.. 504 
-— tenderloin with vegetables—whole... 504 
— - tenderloin ‘with vegetibles, avon ae ae 
ie -naise—whole (Fig. ca aur ware os 736 
— — tongue & la Romdine.:.............. 504 
_— tongue a la Soligny... Ri ees as 505 
— tongues, cold (see tongues). Te URL A 
_— tongue, Ttalian—baked? 2 Ae B06 
— — tongue, macédoine...i2:226cee...ee. 505 
Pe tripetsee LTpel ce an theca ee 
Beetroot fritters a la Dickens. x Saw int pene Cet 
— with butter and fine herbs. . ae B20 
— with cream Bene ey, ~ 820 
Bestest se anaes pen at B56 
Biscuit cases—how to prepare them (Fig 
G20) 20% os (Baleates eens panes ee ener 983 
— creaii—siiall sv... 0.2) eae tees . 910 
Biscuits Frascati, English ‘¢ cream sauce.. 876 
— (see cakes)..... SRI RO AK ey Sea Poe 
Blackbirds a la pap rause” oe Toe Ue 
Blackfish a la Orly..... 2...) Deir ant 
— Ala Sanford }.)...: Sagoo its aa ena 
2 ~é Jo Villarot, 1 4 Coe eset eae aed 
Blanc Mange a la Smolenska..... pce aT 
"= strawberry (Fig. 588)). 2.200 .62.0000. 7 910 
Blanch | Tee, Warts cot peR Peseta el 
— vegetables, to.. -. tie Sa rg pr ce 8 ip) 
Blood Pudding. .”7.!. cipttsenetee sewers ' 569 
Bluefish a la Bara. a vio ke so ABS 
= devited >, Sore ee baie} a9 
— Havanese Style. esdldale d tioihc she ere met 
— in ‘papers... MOP DOOR SL ts SOs 99 
— with mayonnaise and ‘tarragon. Peele Be 
Boar (wild pig) cutlets, Santéds nomen 637 
— (wild pig) haunch, Robert sauce.;... 637 
(wild pig) tenderloins, roasted....... 637 
— (young wild) quarter, garnished with 
- cutlets and breasts, marinadesauce 637 
— (young wild) saddle and quarter— ~~ 
BOABEON shoes cob ae can ote eee ae cies 688 
Boar's Head, decorated... 0. sete. 801 
Boats, banana (see cakes)..........000005 948 
— bon voyage (see confectionery)....... 1038 
— Printanier (see cakes)........ iuage eele 949 
Bonibs (sed 1068). 0 eos eh cee Mpeg here! 
Bondons of pickerel a la Walton........ 369 
— of woodcock a la Diane..... cseceeens  OtO 
















THE EPICUREAN. 


Bone, poultry or game, to. Pee 
Bonito or tunny fish ala Godivier. Re he 
Borders, butter (Fig. 469)... rn : 
— Carolina with champagne.. 
—chicken forcemeat filled with lan. 3 
quette a la Toulouse (Fig. 410).... 
— fish forcemeat 4 la Duchess with —s > 
fish tails and morils (Fig. 411).. = 
— for dishes of noodle, cooked paste oF re eae 


. Ca 
¥ r 
se cesece ‘ 


metal (Figs. 1 to 6)...... a 7 
— of English or gum paste (Fig, 6a). . Sepone 
ielly.. seis. wat ge as Set eae 


“— jelly crofitons, different cues (ie 

f 457 to 15)... | 
— - jelly, molded (Fig. 470) ty 

= rice, with bananas. jn 


_— risot of lobsters or gules Bbetetis > (Pig. Be 
* 418). dens cess 






at vegetable (Figs. 466, “487, 468): HUA : 
Bottoms, founsacions and Sead 168? ees 
ae Es a — 
Bote (eee pattie) ove Se edeee ee E 87 




















2) to prepare (Figs. 16, 17, 19. 
Boudins of chicken 4VEcarlate . 
— of chicken a la Soubise. .: 
— of chicken au Cardinal. .. om Dr 
‘— of chicken with Montebello sauce. be a 
— of game a la Berchoux......—.... bee 678: 
~— of game or chicken blood a la Vietorin 678: 
— of kingfish 2 la ro 1 
— of salmon with rape ‘ 
Bouillabaisse Marengo. 
== Parisian. 30 ion ee 
Brains, calf’s, 2 l’Aurora. +. 







— calf’s, d-la Chassaigne.........00s.1. 507 
—calf’s, ala poulette me mushrooms, NE, 


— calf’s, in matelote. . 
~~ calf’s, peasant: cat eer: ia : ‘OT a 
— calf’s, with black or hazel-nut butter. 508. <4 
iss calf’s, with’ tomatoed Béntnbieds sauce, ois 508 


i. 


- & 


87 40Be 
~ lamb’s, with mayonnaise. . 738. 
Braize, to, poéler, smother or sauter meats, | 173° 





Fe ns 
ies a en ee 


Brandy cherries. /... 3:2 20 ae 210500 
+ figs....... io eee ae eee oes AEIOROS 
_— greengages....- “NT a 
_—peaches....... Peres 
Bread, Boston brown.......... eeecsecech 
s& COMM 5.6.05 soak eae Mee is 976 
— crésdents.) 02/1 2 eee PP 
— crescents with butter—fine. YE 
— crowns et ak Pretest AM ak 
-* Graham.) S760) 3 ee Selena 
— jockos—French loaves ............ pe 
— loaves in boxes and pans of two, seven 
and twelve pounds each. ie iy eeia 
— muffins, .i)..2.... 4604 Ro seees a 
— paste for di and smail rolls. Sle 
“rolls, finger........ merc 


LINDEM WliT ~~ 1148 





as Pah. f+ Pace. 
Bread, rolls, flutes or French Pols. oes. ° O74 Broohettes of sweetbreads (Fig. 414), Aen 7," 
PeePORG Ses ie ieee ways ec eccsc cessive. O14 Brussels sprouts 4 la Baroness.......... 820 
PEO WOOUL Sevan ss cert escesescecce O70 err SUULLOC a. ean bs oe en yo oe ie Beene, BE: 
-— to, with bread-crumbs, English flour, Bucket of waffles with cream............ 908 
Milanese crackers and deviled .... 174 Buffalo fish a la Bavaroise............... 433 
BeeTVOunte soe S seeds Teer seew 9G e~ CFGaM SACO. 6). os do ce ceecsseeree 433 
— with butter, Varsovian...........00.. 971 Bustard in Daube—wild goose........... 612 
Bread- SUAMIDE oie ca scccsisccccicese.: 969 | Bitter fish, marinated and fried......... 433 
Bee MDN GS okie <d cd dcvaseese Reese 970 Butter, fresh, molded, pats; shells or in 
— utensils for bread- on (Fig. ee 969 | small stone pots (Fig. 199)........° 356 
eee COTE eyed es seves evccsesvess: “971 o— GUND Li at de ese ccs iidwwen ee. SOOL 
Bie Portion. etetr wes ewearseoecsests  OT1 = ANCHOVYs. . h45 eee cece op an etw erent. feet 
— the leaven..... REPS Se: soc detter 971 — black—hot........... Simccieht apeavcr! «<aeU 
= the yonst...-......000ePrcila out 970 pe. Cam bridge. . 6c... 56: is nies resis oo 
— the yeast—stock.....,....s0..0.443' 970 | | —cayenne, Chili, : paprika ii sweet 
Bread stuffing, to prepare, American and: Le Spanish pepper.....ccosececsssua sl - 821 
HMaghsh style. oie ess. ele ek! 187 j  —clarified end pared ae: Sec 175 
Breakfast Cakes...... Beliecedssseceses! 044 Po Cr or ene eee eats obec esowe 321 
— biscuits.......... Sanieeve ve cwe be O44 — crawfish ...........00 Vane eet ‘stanly ws 321 
— biscuits, cinnamon. ...iie ssseceees . 944 ‘+ fine herbs—cooked..........00. edasie Del 
— brioche, flutes of.....c.02c eccvcees ~944 ~~ fine herbs—raw. vaso dui ok sibs tee - 821 
— brioches......... Pee vi cctes. O44 —— for buttering molds. ....ic.ceccdswes. L115 
Stuns, Mnelish i ..s.c..o000c< 0 eee =044 PAPC ie ace oes es vs sa eeeeweticie Sook 
— buns, hot-cross.........eceesee. = 945 — green gooseberries. .......0. wees ue of 321 
— buckwheat with baking powder (Figs. — hazel-nut—hot.......... 2 osvcowvevs i 320 
O01, GORY esi. 6 é. Seep axasce cd O45 — horseradish ............ godess siedvses «aor 
— buckwheat with yeast.............. 945 ert MGA OU ins <a a at Rleh oot Os wie ot het ee 
UMUCOES Geer sthssiGesctesveoteces 945 — lobster and spiny lobster coral....... 322, 
— Indian....... Ree merctsccrsseceese ae 94D -— Mpibre-d Hotel | oc. < spss tee cele s geve's 322 
—rice....... Rete i iies ss. 946 — melted—hot............ AE ote fae oe 320) 
— wheat...... Shea A ecient ei ve vee s'ss 7: 946 — Montpellier...... Ses vukiase ob kobe mone 
SMUD Sc ce ce ccecctsceseccseceee’” 946 T— TAVIZOUG, Sees Sanh ve Vbielie ana vaviel -Oem 
— échaudés ........... ese eleva tess” ~ O47 — saffron......... sieicdcey SA mre vcaetet “Oae 
— grissinis with butter.........se.02-. 946 ' — shallot........... Kea Shes Wee 05.00 en Oe 
— grissinis with sugar.......sssesee... 946 _._—shrimp...... weve elets jolene d's Calais B22: 
=— hominy, boiled: ......ccescevccvcese 947 i: == vermicelli............ Sree nee sede ee) ~- 000s 
— oatmeal, boiled........e.ceceesecees 946 ‘Cabbage in ballotines—stuffed........... 821: 
— Polish blinis........ weet ceeeree es O4T — peasant style....... Rares eae chin aie? = S21 
— toasts, buttered...........00. Slee: 947 —red, 4 la. Montargis.........00sce%e. 82h 
— toasts, dipped in water, cream or milk. ~ 947 — red and white, English style, and mar- 
— toasts, dry............ Pecteeec ves vest 947 inated cauliflower............... 306: 
— wafiles............ Le dis ve viele Petheee sc O41 ‘Cakes, Breakfast (see. breakfast cakes)... 944 
— wafiles with ek ice veteee 048 Cakes, Large oo —) Neon Pines 931 
— wheaten grits, boiled:....s.......00. 947 — Almond... ....2233322 bee ee cece ceaene 931 
Breasts of’pork salted and ‘smoked—Hng- — Almond biscuit........ aie 8 piers’ es 932: 
SPPIBODACOMT ssc ts cece ss ee eds! ~ 174 — Angel.. Ae a ey or pe 981 
Bressoles of chicken..........0s00 ss2-- 370 — Baba, syr ruped ¢ or iced. beeee eoecusoces Jee 
— of fat livers........ podiseescmeerese” “Ol — Biscuit dla Hernani:...........s.60. 962 
— of game........%- ROLE Dae e eet aee 370 — Biscuit, mousseline. 2..0.620.020s vo). Bow 
rine ce. eee: Peg ais sie, “174 — Biscuit, Savoy........0sssssseseeees Dee 
— for salting hams....... {RAE ioc Hea ieee — Boar’s head, imitation.........0..04- 941 
— for winter hams........ Cie rene 21D ee OO ARIAIION ficlgd habe a'e vee nd vlna oal ow VEL 
Brioche (see cakes, large).........0-s0++- 983 SeeSTOUOC tee ee cies saa eele sera bvne ex 
SERUINOUE Aca ate ss ce es Potato riees ele — Brioche with head—large and Nhe ae 
Brioches, St. Mark ............scceeeees 877 — Chamounix po Shes Meee PER ALSO AE ETES ie 
Brissotins of chicken, supreme.......... 370 wer COMPUGRTIC ENG ss sales wie toa weisea & i 
— of game, Lyonnese (Fig. 215).......- 370 eee ROEUBEDT Ars whe te bles Uraicae nena ¥ eles a 
— of lobster, Indian style............++ 370 — Fleury (Fig. 595). inch AE alin aS te .. 
Broccoli, or sea-kale, with white, butter — Fruit (Figs. 596, 097)........-eesee. : ee 
823 aes CP ETIIOSE oc visi <.0,b.a ble wise boce e's wm ora BO 
Gee a TT ; — Gugelhopfen.......cedesteccceesues. 936 
Brochettes of lobsters........+-+++++98+ 679 Gugelhopten. 
679 of — Ham, imitation.......ecccrcsveseses 941 


— Of OYStETS....... eee eeeeterecereees 


1144 THIK EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Cakes, Large— 
~—— Hazel-nut: cdaasiacguce’ serecees cease 936 


— Jamaica...... p auveheceewicnleecwine same OTe 
— Jelly, meringued...ccccccccsecsesee 936 
wm Lady fit wticeee eee waceticepic sewn ent. 937 
— Mandarin (Fig. 598)... ....esseceeeee 937 
am Marly. (Hig. S99). ive cele cles tse vie ~- 988 
— Milfoil, Pompadour........ steasttn ae see toe 
— Milfoil with preserves ............2.. 938 
= Mothass:. fice em Set pileeeilee meinen: 939 
wo. NOAPOLEAN, feo hee een vslabal aici eiete 939 
— -NOUgAUNO i ces ccce ver nce spies eae 939 
=~ Pineapple. ein. ses sine seieecseniess vadet: «040 
om Plutneins Selcy toe crecoue wen eerie 940 
mem POUND Se we se aes raisers acre Ot surat 940 
oem PUNCH Tce ee eee Sere eer roc ree 940 
— Punch biscuit.......... we ciatw ok un se 941 
om QUEEN Gccac cs ceueee COR riring = 941 
sone. ROGUELENS Vocice cee bles Sale cess eee ae 941 
orm AUG we bet tae ee ec aaa e old be ie tere siete 942 
— Savarin, a la Valence....... Sale eialakte 942 
— Sponge........... Pu Oiatele bietetere aces sie 942 
wm SO FLONOTGR Si ere emer cee ere cade cerk- near 
— St. Honoré Sultana........,cccccceee 942 
— Strawberry short ...... cceeccceeces 943 
— Vacherin, with cream (Fig. 600)..... 943 
— Valentin, with rum........ Reet ay 943 
Cakes, Small, ten toa pound ........... 948 
mc MA DPIC Le avciisiure h sicie se Rice Haw ree @eeetaiate 948 
— Apricots with cream of almonds...... 948 
—, Babas: with rum cscs ese Sele eee ees 948 
— Biscuits in cases, with cream........ 948 
— Banana boats..... Mais chaiee ai oe alate ee 948 
mo Boats: Printanieyy. $e. .ce oc ce tee ee 949 
— Cannelons a la Célestine............ 949 
wee CASINOS) sc Fea ea scenes oaareesmtrines 949 
— Condes .ipcsiea i ale 2% ah pie plcle snc site. wate 950 

— Cream, iced with chocolate, vanilla or 
coffee: sz ialse taste ee ee oes 949 

— Cream, with burnt almonds and glazed 
(Figs. 608, 604, 605)... 2... ee ceee 949 

— Cream, with whipped or St. Honoré 
CTORM S005 SUN ek oe ee eles 950 
— Crescents with preserves..........6. 950 
— Darioles, Duchess...............00- 950 
— Darioles with orange-flower water... 950 
— Darioles with vanilla ............... 950 

— D’Artois with apricot marmalade or 
almond Cream Jice eee wade 951 

— Eclairs, coffee and chocolate cream 
CRIS AGG | eet ce se tne weibiels a sane 951 
— Eclairs, vanilla Chantilly............ 951 
moe. NYANCLIEGH 25 AS GGW asa sees ao Se woe oie 951 
— Galettes, puffed and half puffed..... 952 
— Genoese—light............seeeeeeee 952 
— Genoeses with cream meringued..... 952 
— Gooseberry, and tarts..........sse0. 952 
— Goronflots soi CoP. wate se eateee 952 
~— Jealousies \. 5 Gs eae ceemae edie ¢ 953 
— Rolled jelly biscuit .............00. 953 
— Lafayette with rum.............008. 953 
— Madeleines .:. 532% .:cieais Ue werdie aati 953 


Kk 
Cakes, Smal 


j|— 


— Madeleines, Commercy....eccccesces 
— Madeleines, Genoese..... a aie Wee eect 
— Madeleines with rum.......cccsceee 
— Marillan (Fig. 607)... .3..c0ncwe une 


— Mars... 


cseeeveeeveee eo @ @eeeeeoe eee seeaee eee 


— Nougat of apricots...... oes oie aw eteunee 


— Palms.. 


-—— Parisian.. .... ccs ccesesteea cee 


— Savarins—small............ ieee ane 
— Stuffed with apricot.......... ciate 


— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 


— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 
— Tartlets, 


almondine........ tie Se eee 


apple marmalade........ ie 
apple, sour, . .'.5.Wse sue 
Bordelaise. .. . <0 siuces eens 


Demonet::.:..evauuee seen 
Fanchonnette, meringued... 
Hérisson. . ./. 4. sac ee eee 
peach, with rice............ 
Pélerine,...... 50. ueues eee 
Valencia... J c.0 cscs es eee 
variegated fruit..........-- 


— Wells of Love..............00. Sieoente 
Cakes, Tea—forty to the pound........ 
— Basel Leckerlets.............cccecee 


— Butter p 


atiences .\< 6s. see sce eee 


— Cats’ tongues with butter ........... 
— Cats’ tongues with cream..... ...... 
— Cocoanut crowns with cherries....... 
— Croquets.... 0.55. . «0s sews ees Sauces 
— Crumbled paste ......<.cccceccnsess 
— Espagnolettes..... ........ oc ee nen 
— JAPANESE ......s0's cases aseneiee eee 


— Jumbles 


sooo eerere esr ee eee es eeeeee ee ee @ 


— Lozenges o.oo. scsi vis see cic sina 
— Marquis’ hats........... cnn anes oe 
— Milanese... 62.553 deus enema ae 


eereeceeoeoeveeeeereeeeeeee een ee 


— Pistachio nougat.............. as ope 


— Ribbons 


with almond milk.......... 


— Scotch bread............ alee tee ar 
* seme Shavings eevee eeoer* oo eee eeeeeeeeee ee 


— Sugar.. 


eeeeveeeeeeeee eee eee @eeeeeseeee 


— Trouvére #....<csccnccesvucdearenen 


— Wafers, 
— Wafers, 


eeeereer eee eee eevee eee eeeeseeee 


cigarette with vanilla, thin. . 
chocolate. 3. sii eee 


— Wafers with almonds (Fig. 608)...... 
— Wafers with brandy................ 
— Wafers with hazel-nuts............. 
Cakes, Fancy—sixty to the pound....... 
—~ AfTICANS 6.5's5 2 0aio8 epee One ee 


— Amarett 


OS ic 0. @)s\0\5 ©, aera) sass) bielsreyelte ea eantte 


— Barcelonnettes :....ccsseaceeens ea 


ne — Birds’ n 


OSES cic. cclele cae cea areata ie pie ata 


PAGE. 


953 
953 
953 
953 
954 
. 954 
954 
954 


Cakes, Fancy— | 

— Biscuits, bazel-nut............ tae 
— Biscuits with almonds—iced 
— Chocolate chestnuts 
== Cocoanut Kisses... ic... ee ces vce 
— Exquisites with chestnuts........... 
Bee WNGY GOLD, 6. ss ed tecgid ous se thine sk ve > 
— Filbert with rum—small............ 
Reem EM MORO OSE 5o GEG) odie ae acaali dais ecace e 
— Lady bouchées with strawberries or 

“OS SS a are 
— Lady fingers (Fig. 609)......... .... 
Be PC HION CROWNS esis 6 oy ce e's cn es eves sue 
Be REAP OONG rc Rie wi cyotaa bts aise tole as 
— Macaroons, Angelica................ 
— Macaroons, apple jelly.............. 
— Macaroons, bitter................... 
— Macaroons, chocolate with nonpareil. 
— Macaroons, clover ................6. 


a ee ey 


oot treet eeeee 8s & oe 


— Macaroons, currant jelly............ 
— Macaroons, Dutch............. .... 
S=MACATOONS, TANCY. . 2... 5.00. ces seees 
— Macaroons, hazel-nut................ 
See SARA TOONS CIV TO .c52 oie nyc tie se ceseee 
— Macaroons, network ...............: 
— Macaroons, orange.................- 
— Macaroons, soufflé...... ........... 
— Macaroons, strawberry.............. 
— Macaroons, twin...........ceeeeeees 
ATT Oe eae Gul fee 5 sh pes se ges 
EG AG LEIS yo ec eo bss gh nb boo @ pele 0-8 
— Marchpanes, Demidoff ecenm eatin aae 

_ — Marchpanes, orange 
— Marchpanes—soft .............00008 
— Meringues, Italian coffee—small..... 
— Pistachio lozenges. .........--.ceeee 
— Pistachio tourons..........2.e+eee0: 
— Quillets—small...............:..06. 
— Rocks, pignon, with white and pink 
BINONKSS 05k ies o sR teal dais tats 

— Rocks with orangeade.............+: 
— Sticks, cherry.........csssscecesses 
PUIOHS, VARUIG. << sceic esses ve ee heme 
— Tartlets, apricot...........eeeeeeees 
— Tartlets, strawberry...........-+++. 
— Venetians. 
Calf’s brains (see brains)..............+. 
Calf’s crow, 4 la Normande............-- 
Calf’s ears, stuffed, tomato sauce ........ 
Calf’s feet, American style.............- 
— jelly and chicken............+++2++5 
— jelly and meat...........e ee eeeeeees 
Calf’s head 4 la Poulette..............5++ 
— a la Renaissance....... .+.seeeseee: 


ere eevee eeen eee 


eoceoeceoseoeoes eee eee es eee 8 © ® 


— plain or vinaigrette. .......+.eeeees 
Calf’s light, 4 la Mariniére............-- 
Calf’s liver, 4 la Clermont...... An Seth eee 

— And DAaCOD....... cece rccccenecers 

— Italian style. ......ereseeeeccesoeres 


INDEX. 


PaGeE. 


962 
962 
962 
962 
962 
963 


a 





<9 


1145 
Pace. 
Calf’s liver with fine herbs—fried..... . 519 
Calf’s tails with cabbage................ 528 
Calf’s tongues, a la Flamande........... 528 
— & la Macédoine...........csceccece's 799 
— a la Périgueux (Fig. 338)............ 528 
oe LO BALL oa od othe utes mets seen eay aoe eT 528 
Canapés, Bartholomew.................: 370 
som TOWNSOMS, iv sths vos ws oe ee eee ae 371 
— for anchovy (Fig. 201) ........ 6.50 357 
— foranchovy butter... ...........cs0e 308 
s fOr Vareme 70 oy os hoes Soha aes 358 
— for caviare (Fig. 208)..,......c00.00. 357 
so LOVCYAWHelie ic. oa oc gate tages snare obs 358 
— for hard-boiled eggs.............24. 308 
sere FOP RTs ao stoaics wk ose os es eae ee 308 
— for herring, deviled................. 308 
— for herring, Russian (Fig. 204)....... 357 
—— #0r* lobster 2 i ete vetlel aes 358 
— for red beef tongue...............6. 308 
— for sardines (Fig. 202)......... ..... 307 
=~ for ShTiM PSs; ius Sees ont eee ae 398 
— for smoked salmon (Fig. 205)........ 307 
— for smoked sturgeon (Fig. 205)....... 307 
— for Windsor (Fig. 200).............. 307 
— game (Hip. 216)..5 es. cls ceenesc ees 371 
seew't LIF ONT Onc is tiane aan oe ae Hi eteneee «5a 0s 371 
SAM ANELIG So. ea aes ce calelakiyt cephalic wes 52 a7 

== SWEDEDICAGS o's vie Vclkaves oe etd ase « Bye | 
Candiess oy eta tee ete ces 1046 
— burnt almonds. 9. 50.5 was cei Sree 1046 
— caramels (see caramels).............- 1046 
mee CONUMIB crs kas wield wre claipir «a's. se ip seus 1047 
peCATODS soonest bine s\sieeinalin oo 9 toes Se 1047 
— drops, peppermint...........-...05- 1047 
— drops, strawberry...........eeeeeees 1047 
— filbert, preserved... .......eseressees 1047 
— fondants, chocolate................. 1048 

— fondants, dipped in strawberry or rasp- 
DOrty len .a ec ceranietees ute ase.cuw 1048 
— fondants, vanilla............eeeeeeee 1048 
oem OF MOULOEK Soka salons acres nsw eset 1048 
— Northern jelly......... scecssscees 1048 
— NOUGAL 0... cccedeceteenceecesoenss 1049 
= /Tortillons 3 fesse waevae ss cesses 1049 
— Trocaderos with raspberry.........+- 1049 
— Trocaderos with rum.............65 1049 
— violets, candied..........eeese> ...-. 1049 
Candying, cold............seeeeeeeeeees 1046 
—e HOt ec Sidi tin ees trees es a iare® 1046 
Canned cherries. ........+- sceeeseeeees 1050 
— PEATE... cn cessesencccrcsreceseencs 1050 
— pineapple. .......0ececeeesoeeeeeees 1051 

Cannelons, beef palate or lamb’s sweet- 
breads and celery........+-+++ «++ 372 

— with purée of chicken or game (Fig. 
DAY Roe ey GOED Ta Re PPL 372 
Capon 4 V’Amphitryon........-+-++++-+: 583 
sen A. 1 BYOSSOIBG) AS sie de eens 9 vee se ae or 583 
— & la Fimanciére. .......cceerekeceess 583 
— ala Pondichéry..........+s+s+esee- 583 
— a la Régence..... MEN RT ne bs Pee 584 
— legs with truffles .......-+++seeeees 584 


1146 THE EPICUREAN. 


Capon, roasted 7. aetna ee 
Caramels, chocolate cream............5. 
— cream with coffee. Ji... ce eke seee 


— liquid, to prepares si 0.052552 555<% 2s 
Cardoons with half glaze.......... ..... 
Carp ...cnii keane te eateest see eeeeree i 

— & la Chambord; sina. oes. «cst troees 

— breaded and broiled, maitre-d’hétel. . 

— common (Fig. 286)........... sb eeees 

— fried, garnished with parsley. 2...) 


— German (Fig. 287)..... eee aes toe Mee 
— German, with sauer-kraut.......0..0 


— stuffed a la Champenoise—salmon. . 
Carrots and peas, bela! Lee sirloin of 


— glazed, or with fine herbs........ ava 
— Viennese style .:.:...2022000 080087 a 
— with cream........ A Parsee y wire ; 


— beef, roast; to carve the ribs (Fig. 29). 
— beef, tenderloin (Fig. 30),........... 
—~ fish: (Figs. 23, 24)... Seed. este ee 
— goose or duck (Fig. 34)...... 003282! 
— hot‘ham “(Vip 31) 400.0. sen ee are 
— lamb or venison, saddle—roasted..... 
— mutton, leg (Fig. 32)... 2. ise t ccs. 
— mutton, saddle, 0.4.0.2 5.5% 85. s 8 
— mutton, saddle—braised (Fig. 33).... 


— partridges (Fig. 25 to 28)...... ..... 


—- pheasant, grouse or prairie chicken, . 


= DIL CONS ovis ae ws wee Bt el eee 


— pullet or capon (Figs. 35, 36, 37)...... 


— turkey—roasted (Fig. 88)......0222) ° 


— veal, loin and kernel.......00025. =, 


Cases a la Montglas—small ......... Pet 
— larks or snowbirds..... Se te ie 08 oe 


— lobster a la Ravigote (Fig. Bae corses 
— oysters ala Hilton...............00. 


* — oysters a la Lorenzo (Fig. 416) bP er bah 


— quails @ la Déjazet..:...5.5...0.... 
— snipe a4 la Caréme—English.......... 
— snipe with jelly—small (Fig. 472).... 
— squabs a la Folsom and a la Umberto 


— sweetbreads a la Grammont (Fig. | 


vo sheeted with sony sama (Fig. 478). 
— with fat livers—small (Fig. 415)..... 
Casino (see "Cikes\ eA eo. tet eee 
Casseroles, potato. ..° oc... ee dec 
— of lamb sweetbreads a la de Luynes.. 
— of rice with chicken, Palestine...... 
Cassolettes, Lusigny (Fig. 218)......... 
— Montholon 5221.7 ,2choo et eee eee 


434 
434 


PAGE: 
Cauliflowers a la Béchamel—stuffed and 
baked. .2\5t2.c0is ne aon ae eee 822 
— a la Villeroi........ .. f aied 3 eke ene 822: 
— friedic..35 chad eee +823: 
i marinated) 3s. las esceek sec eee 306 
— sautéd, with fine herbs.............. 823 
— with cheese—baked................. 823 
— with fried bread-crumbs... ........ 823. 
— Broccoli or sea-kale with white, butter 
Or Cream Sauce... eee ‘sae eee 
Caviare.: vicina BE 358. 
Celeriac a la Villeroi.....,..... Forse J B24 
— Mirabean. .fs6 desc 2e8 sae ewe ee ee 823. 
Celery, fried (see sirloin of beef)..... ee 
— hearts, erystallized ... 20.63.63 ¥23823 T0561 
— stalks, fennel, hearts, knobs with - | 
vinaigrette mayonnaise.....025.. 358 
— stalks with half-glaze, ‘Hispaguere and 
+: MAATTOW ig: i tetas ae bees eee > B23: 
— stalks with velouté sauce...... 2.0... “823 
— with béchamel and crofitons......... 823 
Célestines of pullet, Talleyrand... ..... » *74Op 
— with foies-gras and purée of chest- 
nuts.2:8 3 Shae eee Jeunes sa eee 373: 
Center pieces (see confectionery) ........ 1029 
— explanation of various figures (Figs. 
729 to 731). 5. 3.0). ehes eee 1029 
=~ of brown nougat ;:3.7, 2.05 ese ene 1033. 
-— of cooked sugar (Figs. 782, 783, 784). 1031 
— pyramids ¢ 343306. ss4.5 00s eee eee 1029 
Centimeters and inches................ ae ie 
Cépes a la Bordelaise..............0.0022 “ORT 
— baked with cream .s.5. 23.6) sss. ee ee 824 
— minced in croustades.......... ees ~ “824. 
— Provencal style............ Bees e > “B24 
—— stuffed... ci ul ed oes eee — 824. 
Champagne, how to freeze Wigs. 768, : 
(0!) RC 1065. 
Chariots (see confectionery)............. 1088. 
Charlotte ala Destrey................ Vet ICT. 
— apple (Figs. 573, 574)........... echoes O Eee 
— Bengalian............ Ota 911 
— Calville apples...... .. 0s OO eee 
— Metternich. ............005 SS ae “P12: 
H— Russe . iets ssaeveeaees eee ee eeenem 912: 
— with strawberries or raspberries .... 912: 
Chateau framboisé ...............200005 911 
Chaudfroid of chicken 4 la Clara Morris.. 740 
— of chicken fricassée......... 22.2.6. 746. 
— of doe bird, plovers, bustards or wood- Tad 
cock,: with fumet: . 97.0 yes "740. 
— of guinea fowl—young (Fig. 474).... ‘741 
— Of Lark. sii. cco-se is areistntslatwe Sah eee 741 
— of partridges a la Béatrice.......... , = 94s 
— of pheasants—fillets (Fig. 475)....... TAR 
— of prairie hen—grouse........ leaden 742 
— of pullet—plain...............0008- 743. 
— of quails a la Baudy (Fig. 476)....... 743. 
— of redhead duck—fillets........... . 744 
— of snipe in pyramid (Fig. 477)....... 744 
— of turkey a la Périgord........+.... 744. 
— Of -VenisON 4.476505 iden sae eae wives 744 





ASTIN OT 


- 


PAGE. > 
Cheese.........:... A NOE, A TASTOSS 
— cream ....0.... pect imes! PUTO oes 1058 
PP rUAtS CN Sov ay eae acs Oe Pe See “BGG 
‘ — grated Parmesan and Swiss.......... 194 
MemOTTiés, brandied... 6. oi 53 cei cce te sac ce 1050 
RSM ee ts cs tw ek an bev ees 1050 
Ree WELT Wisi Wis 5 wR oe ele oh vine Sect aes 1056 
Chestnuts, stewed. ........5...005.cc0e. 1056 
BN PN CREAM. . apes cect s9 vee aetae de cs 912 
— With BTAVY.. 6. cece ween Peas acters 824. 
GN et ga oe ei 584 
— breasts 4 la Chevreuse....,......... 584 
' — a la Delisle—broiled (Fig. 353)....... 584 
— 4 la Irving—broiled and stuffed...... ~ 685 
— broiled, with bacon, maitre-d’hétel. . 585 
* — broiled, with tarragon gravy or. ‘sauce. -: 585 
— cocdtte (Fig. 354).......0.000. ease i 585 
~ — cutlets.(see cutlets)......... Ps eens 687 
- — écarlate a la Derenne (Fig. 478)...... 745 
»— épigrammes @ la Volnay:............ 885 
— escalops, financiére............. Peete! G91 
— fillets or breasts a la Béranger....... 586 
' — fillets or breasts 4 la Bodisko........ 586 
— fillets or breasts a la Cértosa......... 586 
-— fillets or breasts 2 la Chiselhurst (Figs. 
BOO eres Such A weer eid vs 586 
'— fillets or breasts a la Cussy (Fig. 357) 587 
— fillets or breasts 4 ]’Ecarlate......... 587 | 
— fillets or breasts a 1l’Ecuyére—cheva- 
Ree Big 258) o ie ed 587 
— fillets or breasts a la Gallier........ . 746 
— fillets or breasts a la Harrison ke 
1 NN hy See or ae teat ae ee 588 
— fillets or breasts a l’Impératrice...... 7-887 
— fillets or breasts a la Lorenzo (Fig. 
Dee Sa a Kee was ee TEL 588 
— fillets or breasts 2 la Pucnlias! @igh<2025 
(Ce Ee ee oe rn esol 1589) 
. — fillets or breasts a la Marceau (Fig?863).. 589 
' — fillets or breasts a la Maréchale.....: un O89 
— fillets or breasts ala Mirabeau..... ei 000 
— fillets or. breasts a4 la Mirebel (Fig. 
MEMES ES osc a9 ade ice SRR 745, 
— fillets or breasts a la Patti (Fig. 364).'> 590 
— fillets or breasts a la Primatice...... 590 
— fillets or breasts a la Princiére (Fig. ° © 
UA gis SOME MESS AN gene Pa 590 
— fillets or breasts a la. ee 746 
— fillets or breasts a la Sadi Carnot..... 591 
— fillets or breasts a la Toulouse........ : 691 
— fillets or breasts a la Valencay (Fig. 
ES n> cpt ee oe re 591 
- — fillets or breasts ala Vale (Figs. 367, 
rab TS ae e 2 591 
— fillets or breasts a la Villeroi (Fig 
RN eA Src ca epithe bin de atts & 592 
— fillets or breasts au supréme (Fig. 870) 592 
— fillets or breasts, epicurean (Fig. 359). 588 
— fillets or breasts, Mexican style, in pa- 
SO Sh eer cea a a 592 
— fillets or breasts with cucumbers (Fig. 
ee ean cbs s ays oy 2 Se eiele wis wee <e 593 


Chicken fillets or wings 4 la Genin 
Het STICRSS COS 5 Se eee ae hs a abet 


oeet ee ee eeeee 


—. fricassée with curry..........0¢s000 
— fried, marinade sauce............... 
=== fPiOd | MEGICIS NS o.6 ou. 88 viasoe « See ae. 


— hams with Zampino................ 
~~ J AITIDRTAIA (OP aitae ed ed, cto Ad wield 
— legs a la igeank mete noe hes 
— legs, American style—deviled. .. 
— legs, as cutlets with olives..... pies 
+ legs as ducklitigsia. «. AAA Grice ea ; 
— legs in papers 
~ — legs, purée of Jerusalem artichokes.. 
— pie, Australian style..........603.%8. 
— pie a la Manhattan 


Ci, ee rr 


eee ee ero eeese eee 


me DIO; HAG OLOT Ys a iewin so wus salen wre Goes { 


PIG FO DOCUL MPT) var cisiec sanias oe ee 
— roasted, a la Championne........... 
— roasted,’ a. l’HOteliére......0....%... 
— roasted in the saucepan.............. 
— roasted, with jelly, cut up and gar- 
nished with tongue. ............. 

— roasted, with oyster sauce........... 
— roasted, with tomato Condé sauce— 
SEIECCE tera cre Seer Mee Ss ow: yaw kgs 

— sautéd, a la Bourguignonne......... 
— sautéd, a la d’Antin................ 
= SAULEG Aue (DIVAS. oo weds. aon bs 
a= sauted;.a1a.Dodds.G 9 ho. ck ai Seb S 
o BAULCR: Aid LUMAR ss... eves ee chalet 
=~ sautéed, a.la Finnoise......: esc.0eees 
i= santeds 8 la Florentine... 5. wis oe 
— sautéd, a la Madeleine.............. 
Pe anGed 1a) A LALCE) SS cic cw ewes nat 


—sauted; a la Marengos.... .... csi at ; 


=~ sauted, ala Maryland. .......0.6 62". 
/— sautéd, a la Montesquieu (Fig. 372).. 
e—sauted, a ln? Nantaise., .. 0/000) Si 
— sautéd, a la Parmentier....... PRL. 
Ee saute, a la Fortugaise.. is. 0... 5s 
Ge Sauted, a IR DANFOTd os ee eae 
— sautéd, ala Sherman..... PRN ga Lara 
—- sauted, ala Stanley). J... cedde noe 
— sautéd, a la Tunisian.........0..+64. 
— sautéd, Hunter’s style.......-.seee- 
— sautéd, Parisian style. ...........++- 
— sautéd, Point du jour 
sey iganted; Vienna style. ... 0.0. 0018 (eh 
— sautéd, with fine herbs, tomato gar- 
NiSHiING. 0... eeecvcecerceceaceee 

— with half glaze (Figs. 373, ie and 
375) Bian Ss Sake. selene OR Re Oh 


oversee eer arene 8 


* 600 
600 
601 
601 
601 
602 
602 
TAT 
602 
603 
603 
603 
603 
604 


604 


604 
604. 


1148 THE BEPICUREAN. 
PAGE. PAGE. 
Chicken, whole, 4 l’Aquitaine—braised... 605 Codfish, salt, Faraday crowns............ 437 
— whole, a la Léona—boiled........... 605 — salt, picked-up, with cream.......... 438 
— whole, a la Stuyvesant—poélé....... 605 — salt, vol-au-Vent.. .,ccress oceans 720 
— whole, English style—boiled........ 605 Coffee, how to make (Figs. 762, 763)...... 1059 
— whole, with noodles, macaroni, rav- wm 10006. xan end 5s ae ath oolk eee ee 1027 
ioles or mirmidons—braised...... 605 — Turkish (Figs. 764, 765, 766)........ 1059 
— whole, with rice—braised........... 606 Cold dishes... :....¢.s..4-02.+-e0 eee 723 
— whole, with tarragon—braised...... 606 Colombines of chicken livers with ham.. 373 
— whole, with new vegetables, small— — of foies-gras.:,... «2.45 6s opis BY Es) 
braised.) 2h Reise ec eek 606 Colorings, vegetable; carmine and cochi- 
Chicory; timbalésio25 2 a eee 825 neal red. ...)...5\s. seuten ee ee 181 
—- With crea 2 .4.n:53h Soma speeeee es 825 Compiégne with sabayon................ 878 
Chocolate (Figs. 760, 761)............... 1059 Compotes (see stewed fruits) ............ 1056 
SS (ii -| CE tk es Oe el: 1027 Condé cakes (see cakes)...........0.006 950 
Chop, to, parsley, truffles, onions, shallots Confectionery..............0.eeceeeeees 1029 
mushrooms, tongue and coral.... 180 ~~ (large pieces)... ce ss see ae 1036 
Chops (see mutton)........ i Ae eeR eee 532 — baskets filled with candied fruits (Figs. 
Chow-Chow.. 23.55. Siewiteie eo eae 360 142, 748, T44)., ..0 0505 aoe eee 1036 
Cisco, Castillane sauce. .............00006 435 — baskets filled with ice cream fruits... 1036 
Clams, little neck, Quahaug (Fig. 266).... 401 — baskets, Perrette’s (Fig. 745)........ 1036 
— on the half shell.................. .. 859 — baskets with cherries (Fig. 746)...... 1037 
— pancakes and fritters............... 401 — boat, bon voyage, served at a farewell 
— Philadelphia style.................. 401 dinner (Fig. 747)....2 «ssa 1038 
<= DOMLELHO <5 f.0'sS 5 a sie ig ew ies eee 401 — chariot filled with lady apples (Fig. 
-— stufledecic oe ebsae es ae ee ee 401 148) 5. a%ice awa Ona tenn eee 1038 
long DrBOl tation, pies weeny ce ee eee 402 — chariot of doves (Fig. 749)........... 1039 
— soft, fried, garnished with fried pars- — chariot of swans (Fig. 750).......... 1040 
IOV Stes Be pone epee 3 Je 402 — cornucopia (Horn of Plenty) (Fig. 
=~ Sott, New burp: 2kG) tse ge. eons 402 T51). .. vce Senn Chee 1040 
— soft, on skewers or hatelets (Fig. 267). 402 — Dosser ala Denivelle (Fig. 752)...... 1041 
Claret cups es. cst eee 1066 — the prolific tree (Fig. 758)........... 1045 
—= ala Willards: oo s0i\iovvsicce arent 1066 — vases of pulled and drawn sugar (Figs. 
Coat jelly molds, and to mold jellies (Fig. vis Ry (G7 | PRI 1042 
BD) ic seas bys SMe wie oe ee 181 — wheelbarrow filled with flowers on a 
Cochineal red, coloring................. 182 socle (Fig. 756)... .'. Gugweeae oe 1043 
Cocks’-combs, stuffed, Duxelle.......... 373 — windmill (Fig. 757)...........2.0c0e 1043 
Cocks’ kidneys, Villeroi ........ ...... 373 Cooked paste for fanciful borders........ 202 
Cocktails, Absinthe..................008 1066 Corn, boiled on the cob...............06. 825 
am DFANGY: 2. Sas evs ie eee Une ee eee 1065 — CTroquettes ...... cece cece eee yaae te 482 
-— Calisaya. (27k een ate eee 1066 — CUE UP ss 5 sivins/selslh os Se bee ee 825 
— gin, Holland and Tom.............. 1065 — fritters... 6sic00¥s Seed cae cee ee 482 
=~ Jersey, leeds. occ oes hace eee 1066 — pancakes... ..... ss. s<cse8 bee eeeeiene 825 
=‘ Manhattan sis o.0 «s.ceveas ee ‘ole lds 1066 m—— SUCCOLASD « 66. c0 5 30005000 sue eeeeee 825 
am Martine, sy a2s/s5'ci's's SEMEN ee eee 1066 Cornets of orange cream..............06- 913 
am POPUVIAD. 5 525 au os Woe ela Ceeteaee 1066 Cos lettuce 4 la Rudini—stuffed......... 840 
— Riding ClaWiye. eee een ieeneues 1066 Court bouillon...................20e ee 182 
meV OFT OLS «. «er aoe sehen, aoieceee 1065 — With: WINE 02s... 00:0 os cewie cies ine 182 
Cocoanut, to prepare........... 0.2... eee 181 Crabs (Fig... 268). 0.0.5.5 Gi 402 
Codiish (Wig. 288)... a2 ee: 435 — hard shell, baked on a dish.......... 402 
— fresh, a la Duxelle—baked.......... 435 — hard shell, in court bouillon......... 402 
— fresh, broiled with bacon cr ham.... 436 — hard shell, stuffed, Carolina style.... 403 
— fresh, Norwegian style.............. 436 — hard shell, stuffed and deviled....... 403 
— fresh, slices a la Hollandaise (Fig. — hard shell, stuffed with mushrooms.. 403 
209; POU) ttseel nor telee hatha mere cece ene 436 — oyster, ala Newburg............- «. 403 
— head, egg sanees.0.2 ti ache tba 436 — oyster, a la Salamander............. 403 
— tongues with black butter or chopped —— oyster, fried 0.6 4.445) a0. cae 403 
SUCH? .5.. a Re ie Re 436 — soft shell, broiled, ravigote butter. ee 
— salt, Lyonnese style ... in. eee canes 437 — soft'shll, fried. 2. .: 0204 eeae meee 404 
— salt, Spanish styles...) cl. dames 436 — soft shell, sautéd in butter.......... 404 
— salt, a la Villageoise—baked......... 487 Crawfish or crayfish (Fig. 269)........... 404 
-— salt, brandade.of. /s ick wales ae oe ee 437 —.@ la Bateliére.:...4.4.8)0 eae 404 
— salt, cakes and: balls... ... .s.is 604.5 437 —— &la Bordelaise... 5 ..0..+s0=4anseeees 404 


INDEX. 1149 


Crawfish a la Mariniére MRC ED eG Ee ae 404 Cromesquis of pullet—fat............... 374 
Peon Ae VANRIGPOtLG Shin oo. Oe be oe oe Cbs 309 —0f scdllopen (Lavin 7 eae Wo ae eee 375 
—au court bouillon. ........ peg tees oes 404 — OL SHTIMpPSs Fee oes Be ee 374 
— Maison Obras rode eed et, oe or does 405 — of sweetbreads, Babanine ........... 375 
_ with PO TEa en Se Tee Me oa Ss Aes 405 = OLEONRUC ra” Pea eae eee 375 
See WAL POFOGM IY Sey eta A OS A ns be 405 Croquettes (Fig. 219)................... 375 

Cream a la Maintenon—fried............ 878 —— Of apples. oas 0). La ET “2572 
Sepa L eo he AC Sane von 84 SMSO: 182 — of apples a la Trimalcion........... 879 
— bain-marie—molded ................ 913 ~—— Of heeft palates: 20.0.5) oe Ss eR 375, 
ers CRRG PASEO eos 7 8 8 SOs a oes code es 202 —= Ol -capon & la Royal: .ca.ss.cseeee es. 375 
— English, with coffee................ 182 OF CHORNULS Wakes. eacin ne eRe 880 
— English, with vanilla, lemon or orange swat OPV CDICK OI Sig mira ania Soe CLUES 377 

PO CO re ne Ce ts. 182 — of chicken, exquisite ............... 376 
— Frangipane, with chocolate or mar- — of chicken, Hungarian.............. 376 
DOW eras et VRE 6 ole ot eee Ses 183 — of corn (sirloin of beef).............. 482 
— Frangipane, with vanilla............ 183 — of crab; Parmentieris 2.400 hie ns en 376 
po onster (Vig 480). 0. oe. oes eee e cess TAT — of crawfish, Victoria. .........0..005 376 
So G9 see ere taka dO — of duckling a la Muser.............. 376 
— Mocha....... ee ROR Le ye ee Arg A 183 — of fat liver, Dauphine..........:.... 377 
— of biscuit with kirsch............... 878 eek Se RNP e cs see eye Lucy AE? Ms 377 
— of chestnuts, with caramel sugar..... 879 <= OF IIOD A seen a Sek etre oC ee OLE 
POP mCIIOMOD ep ree ok ea bes ceeec da 683 ao OL PAING se aOPee roe ooo eRe 377 
Bee PATUNCPO nceociall ed 8 See es Seow s 683 —of grouse with tomatoed soubise 
— of pheasant, Chantilly.............. 683 BAILCE Roe os oa ee see Pie ree 378 
— of rice with Angelica............... 913 OE Gulneaslow lis Gr sieeve o's os Ae 378 
-— Pamela, Bischoff sauce—fried....... 879 poe OL! BI 2 She en aie ea te ae we ER 492 
— p&stry with vanilla........ geen 183 — of hare (see rabbit 4 la Bienvenue)... 661 
— pistachio or nut............cececes 183 —— of lrorseradishys..5255 28 Sas ee sess es 497 
BereR Ob ptt Wc Ce os cov sce ieee es 183 — of lamb a la de Rivas............... 378 
EGE orice oer tweets sews 913 OF LIONStOT Su. 2 cee ribet tte eae ee tee 376 
Ae EIUNOPO .. 52 Flea Ss Sead sees seve 183 — of macaroni, Milanese............... 716 
PePRGRICLEUGG cw fciSO a vee cl ocs ee dessus 914 == OF Oysters. ces ater ge se Bese coat OTT 
— whipped or Chantilly............... 184 — of partridge with game fumet....... 378 
BE UCR DDIOS occ fs Gio oss oe ee STE Se 879 om OF SPUCASANG ac cc too aie oly we ow ei orale 379 
m— With cherries...:...0i.cSssssceeeuss 914 — of pike 4 la Romaine................ 378 
— with lemon peel in pots............. 914 — of pullet in surprise................ 378 
Crépine of brains.................0.0005 684 — of pullet, Wright Sanford........... 377 
— of chicken 4 la Turenne—breasts (Fig. — of rice with orange raspberry sauce.. 880: 
JOY OE ay a eee a 684 — of rice with salpicon................ 865. 
— of lambs’ trotters, Périgueux sauce... 683 — of semolina, pistachio sauce......... 880 
— of pigeons, poivrade sauce, with truffle — Of shad TOC... 66. ese cececccceees 458 
AEE eae ee oe oe Seas ERIE 684 Ser NIM Dian ee lei asec we eves ice st ee 376. 
PIM OL ae ois sede sys ei Ue Pee eS 684 Of Bwoetbrends. sis sse 6. Sec eeeeee ec 376 
er OM SOOUMIUS cc 2 uy esladat te de lee det . 684 — of sweet potatoes. .........ccc erence 842 

_ — of venison and sausages...........6. 685 — of turkey........ 05.000. teebeeees eh 
— of young rabbits. ........6sneeeceees 685 — of woodcock with truffles (Fig. 220)... 379 

Crescents of noodles with cherries....... 879 Croustades a la Castillane (Fig. 221)..... is 
— with preserves ..........eeeeee ives) 950 — ala Morgan. Pierre vena arses ait t side 

Cromesquis of beef. ...... ..ceeee scene 375 — af la Parmentier ..cic. cs cece ec eee ess a ) 
— of beef palates .............e000 eee 374 — ala Périgueux.... .. .essesereeees nbs 
— of CAPO. sine euse gn SSE Sear te 874 — ala Piedmontese.........e.c0ee2e8 oa 
SO Ce eee RELI 374 — barley béchamel .....--++2+++0+-+00 oe 

* — of clams, béchamel...... een PETE 375 — Carolina style.........- Agneust dee Fe} ce 
ret ea te eo tebe oy oai¥ se 874 — chicken livers with Madeira......... isis 
— of crawfish... ......ccccecccccccsres 374 — Fontage a la Flavignan......+..+.+: = 
BeNOR eee eis peers ae vane eo’ 374 — Gnocquis 4 la Rivoli.......--. tessa os 
— of fillets of striped bass or other fish. 374 | — lambs’ eee eresier nel: (Fig. 419) a8 
— of game, Stanislas ...... TEE Poe 374 — noodles, Tagliarelli........+...+000- : : : 
See CRIMST ssi dase sees vee vd eas ole a eeess 375 Taira an eeaaee 831 
— of lobster ala Rumford............- 374 aon Polenta oie cnet. Senne te ik 
— of musselS........ee:eeeeeecenceres 375 —— TECADITAS 0 cc's eo cevistesies eee 5 in 

— talliarines.......sseeeceseeeces ea eer ~ OSL 


1150 6 We 6B) ch 
Croustades of thrushes..............6- 
— of Venice,’ meringued,,... v13458o s 
— with scrambled eggs and truffles..... 


Crofitons, to prepare, for soups, roasts, 
game, vegetables, eggs, etc. (Figs. 
40 -Al) SoS ee is eeeeeme Re 
Crown a la Camper.... .....0.0e- pil Gs aie 
— ‘fla Choiseuliaces bee ee oe eee signees 
—— Printaniere.< <a acieiteres AAP eee 
Crustaceans: ..s.<..+.08ees eee amie kG 
Crusts, cheese....... iiebica sate stoners 
—; Chestet.sa. ssuae saws s cies Suniee Sale epee 
— clams a Ja Schenk?s-kiss. sere nee te 
— D’Henin, Morton, Chamberlain or a la 
Genoise.... i652 sa shanemerieer aivdies 


— to prepare hollow, bread-crumb, tim- 
bale paste or puff paste (Figs. 42, 

43 5 AAS 4D 5 ei caicigisinida eee aria shares 

— pineapple, apricot sauce ........0... 
— with bananas a la Panama. oan 
— with cherries or steer see a la 
Micholeti ccc caca wae it omen eee 

— with fruits a la Mirabeau (Fig. 575). 
— with Madeira... 44 cokkugwws se eeu ae 

— with peaches or with pears.......... 
— with pears a la Douglas:............ 
~—woodteck (Hip. 223)./2.05 um ve cee 
Cucumbers, fried, breaded, English style 


— salted, Russian style—fresh ........ 
— sliced, in fillets......... 0.5... 000. Gat 
— stuffed o.1c ase eer ca eee ee 
Cupola 4:la.Madisons:.f9e 305 ee 
— of codfish a la Biscayan....:......... 
Currants, large, white, preserved........ 
Custard, cream of chicken or game ‘:%/.... 
—ina dish Pe Maas ree AT Ga ce 


—or ee marie cream with isiieite 
— or bain-marie cream with virgin sottes 
Cutlets, beef a la Babanine—tenderloin... 
— beef a la Bienville—tenderloin....... 
— boar (wild pig), sautéd....... eet re 
— chicken a la Adolph Hardy (Fig. 420) 
— chicken a la Clarence .............. 
— grouse or prairie hen a la Ségard..... 
— hare a Ja Favorite........ poate tle ar 7 
— kingfish, Mayonnaise mousseline.... 
— lamb & la Bussy so. . oi.0 feiss ican 0's 
— lamb a la Catalane............0008 She 
— lamb a la Charleroi...'..........000e 
-— lamb a la Clémence..,......... cmos 
— lamb a la Durand..... etait ees piaeac 
— lamb & la: Gawardls coc. sc concise see 
— lamb 8 la:Giraldai..c wees sues 


EPICUREAN. 


Pace. 
686 Cutlets, lamb 21a Maison d’Or.......... 
880 — lamb a la minute, with mushrooms— 
381 , Sautéed oes ee TT eae wake 
— lamb a a da Murill@si2c0 cae ssforastoaine : 
— lamb 4 la Nubian.....---......e00% . 
184 —— lamb a Ja Périgueux...... a nradeeae 
914 -— lamb a la Pompadour....... Cokie elite 
914 — — lamba la Robinson... .... cs pentane 
914 | — lamb a la Signora....-..05 o+sseeee 
-401 — lamb ala Talma..,..... ic olin allie Stabe 
~ 859 — lamb ala Turenne............6> or Ae 
389 — lamb a la Victor Eugo......... .. wee 
381 — lamb, breaded, sautéd and broiled.... 
— lamb, Imperial ..............6. a iale a 
381 — lamb, in crépinette ............ Faia 
382 — lamb, in papers (Fig. 347)..5.:....4. 
881 | — lamb, kernels in Bellevue.... seb ah ol 
— lamb, plain—yearling (Fig. eis a abe, Ss 
— lamb, with aspic... ......... 00a ; 
184 — lamb, with mayonnaise, kernels..... -~ 
881 — lamb, with string beans........... ‘ 
881 — lamb, with tomatoed chaucfroid..... 
— lobster, a la Lowry........... ieee 
881 | . — lobster, a la Shelly....... ..... .——. 
882 — lobster, with cream sauce..........'. 
882: — mutton a4 la Bouchére.. £36: 2. 0) 8sdee 
883 — mutton a la Macédoine........... vale 
-883 — mutton a la Maréchale. .. 2.65... y 
382 — mutton a Ja Nelson (Fig. 339)...... = 
825 || <:+~mnutton a Ja. Savary....¢.c.. eee 
825 _ — mutton and chops, plain (Fig. 336)... 
825 — mutton, breaded, English sauce...... 
826 © ".— mutton, breaded, with purée of truf- 
811 fles or with purée of chestnuts... 
859 | — mutton, Russian style, with horse- 
359 radish... 0384.45 [ae fee oe 
-826 | * .— mutton, with braised lettuce. ........° 
-883 j — mutton, with chicory. ....... ess in 
-686 (| | -— mutton, with cucumbers...... fcc. 
1053 — mutton, with fried potatoes......... - 
284 — mutton, with marinade.......0.5..0% 
915 : — mutton, with truffles...... Be ire 
915 — pheasants 4.la Reginald...... ob aiviaele 
915 — pheasants in chaudfroid ane 481, 
915 « ARR)...c otra ate aes ot caw elaeate 
- 687 — pork (see pork).......... oessesuwea 
687 — quails, Girondin..... a's wt oles yeaa 
637 — squabs a l’Albuféra....... sceseaa ee ee 
687 — squabs ala Jardiniére.............. 
687 — squabs ala Lauriston.........sse000 | 
687 — squabs & la Luynes.......eeccccasce 
690 — squabs a la Périgueux..........eee0- 
688 — squabs a la Provengal.........seees- 
548 — squabs a la Signora........ ase See 
549 | — squabs in papers..........0- osteee em 
549 — sweetbreads a la Talleyrand......... 
549 — sweetbreads, modern style...... ateen 
549 — veal a l’Anacreon....... tae we Ala sce 
549 — veal ala Chipolata.... ........ ee 
550 — veal a la Georgina and plain......... 
550 — veal. Ja. Seymour. .i.c:c.ssessle sm eieeiere 


-550 — veal.a la Zingara or Singara.. ........ 





Cutlets, veal, half glaze........... 
-— veal, maitre d’hotel (Fig. 325) 
BoMOOl, WIRANORE: a eos ck a's ba eC 8% cee 
SoeumOAt. EO ATSKI Se helo das odes vos 0 « 
— veal, studded with truffles (Fig. 326). 

" — veal, with fine herbs................ 
— veal, with chicory—larded (Fig. 324). 
— venison, a la Buridan.. 


@eeorseveesee oe e8 


' — venison, a la Cauchoise....... Sti 
+ venison, a la Financiére.............. - 
— venison, deviled..... Pahile esta a Deis 
— venison, tomato Parisian sauce..... ‘ 


— venison, with chestnut purée......., 
— woodcock, Poinatowski (Wig. 488).... 
-— woodcock, Sarah Bernhardt... .... : 
— young hare, 4 la Favorite......... San 


— young rabbit, a la. Prévillot.......... 


Dampfnoodles with cream... ........066. 


Darioles, Duchess..... ‘ab heen : 


— with orange-flower water.:........+- 
— with vanillas... su... i wanes Pie 


D’ Artois cake, with apricot marmalade or. . 


MIMMIOUY OPOSE 2S. Silas i Ede dic asieie's. is 


Deer, loin of, cherry sauce....... Ee eee 
Dish bottoms, foundations and supports .. 
Doebirds, chaudfroid, with fumet....... 

— roasted and broiled. pate ies oe ate win: 6 


Dressing paste............... ueeec's 


Drinks, dessert...... Rat ae Ms Gens vas . 


— iced (see ices) ....... ee ee 
Drops (see candies)...... 
— peppermint......... 
— strawber’y.........0c.cseccaces See OR 


Duck, ala Britannia—stuffed..........66 = 


— 8 la Matignon,.srcscscesececiss Gee are 

- — ala Siebrecht......... whe she bin o'date oe 
— Ameyican style—stuffed .........002 

— mongrel—roasted and stuffed........ 
BORE GOO areca a 06 sei nieve pmaupinrie siesc walw'ele 
— with cépes........eceee 6 bets 
— with cherries.......... gajcsles‘opewase 
— with olives—braised......e0.e. evens 
-.— with sauerkraut........... wig binie pe 
‘— with turnips............ bone eatin es 
— giblets, housekeepers’ style........+. 
— paupiettes with risot....... ivae wine 
— blackhead—roasted or broiled.. 


—pbrant, with cauliflower Villeroi— 
POMSLOULS ets cig vt sinin'S 3 Bere Kee 
— canvas-back, broiled.......essseeees 
— canvas-back, roasted, garnished with 
hominy or samp (Fig. 389)....... 
— canvas-back, salmis.........-++e+0+ ° 


— canvas-back, breasts, bigarade sauce.. 
— canvas-back, breasts, with orange 

juice, port wine and currant sauce. 
— mallard, roasted and broiled....... F 
— mallard, salmis of, with Madeira.... 
—mallard, with celery half-glaze— 


roasted. Sait .Vesist ees HS 640 of. 


640 


641 | 


Duck, redhead, 4 la Baréda (Fig. 396).... 
— rechead, roasted and broiled 
— redhead, with fried celery............ 
— Ruddy, a la Hamilton...... atriels st oe 
— Ruddy, roasted 
r—teal,-roasted (Rig. 397). <9... sas oes 
— teal, breasts, a la Ponchartrain. 
— teal, broiled - 
— teal, salmis of, ala Harrison: Ss a act 

Duckling 4!’ Andalouse 
— ala Bordelaise—sautéd............. 
— a la Bourguignonne—fried..... er chalbe 
— a la Grainville—larded 
— ala Lyonnaise.............. 
— ala Rouennaise...... tee volt 
— galantine of, pear-shaped.. 
PINRO is ca oebiess eos cate Cie ad 
—— ‘peasant style, , oi. st. cise eid. ints 
enw SALMIS.OF no csiesetie Wau 4 igh «db een ws ‘ 


.. — with bigarade sauce......4 thao wale Db 


— with green mayonnaise and fine herbs 


—pbroiled and roasted......% ‘ade 


— with Jerusalem artichokes. . sae te 
— with oranges..... ape nteten bres oe . a shi de 
— with Spanish olives....i........... ; 
— fillets a la Macédoine or green peas... 
— fillets a la Périgueux (Fig. 876)...... 
Eclairs, coffee and chocolate cream....... 
vanilla Chantilly jan we cia st dee on os 
Edible snails (Fig. 270)............... 
pov: DOTOGIAISO:s ain was ths WANs a o's 10,04 plates 
— Bourguignonne... ....sccecesoee: ar 
o—~) Pravental 5 viact.cntsn a Sele de sie of cave ceee 
— Provencal butter............00% eaters 
— Saintonge..... ee Siagenese wate : 
§— LO PLO PATE vis siwinw le cc. b'e e's clevece o:d iB laiw Waits 


Eels a la Maréchale (Fig. 291)...... besadisale 


— broiled or fried, tartar sauce......... 
— fried with butter and fine herbs..... 


PA LOTT eS ile Clee Sc Ubiwleisiere's 
‘Egging and moistening................4+ 
‘Eggs (Plate)........ PO gic w Race ie ecw s 8s 


‘tau miroir a la Jockey’Club.......... 
— au miroir ala Lully (Fig. 559)....... 
i— au.miroir a.la Meyerbeer.....'....6... 
— au miroir a la-Provencal.........0+0: 
— au miroir acla Tivolier.’. os cess cece 
— boiled (Fig. 560). .......0.006.. siseiete 
— bustard, plover and seagull.... 

— cold (see garnishings) 

_ — fried, A la Eugene André (Fig. 562). . 
— fried, a la Montebello......... a pxaile la 
— fried 4 la Sole—turned over......... 
— fried, Neapolitan style—turned over. 
— fried, with brown butter...... suse We 
— fried, with chopped parsley........- 
— fried, with ham and bacon.......... 
— hard-boiled and Aurora.......ée0e%- 
— hard-boiled, a la Bennett.........- ne 
— hard-boiled, 4 la Benoist............ 
— hard-boiled, a lacCarolli with noodles 
'— hard-boiled, a la Gibson;..i.3..0.5.. 


eeseevee 


|. 642 


406 
406 
, ~406° 
405 
488 
438 
438 
186 
185 
847 
847 
847 
848 | 
848 
848 

- 848 
309 
760 
850 
850: 
851 
851 
851 
851 
851 
849 
849 
849 
R49 
849 


1152 


THE EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Eggs, hard-boiled, 21a Washburn...... --. 849 
— hard-boiled, croquettes (Fig. 561).... 850 
— hard-boiled, New York style...... .. 850 
— hard-boiled, Russian style........... 850 
— molded a la Bedford—in cocottes (Fig. 
BGS) sis sah Pela Ma aves a eter ate cuales wien te 851 
— molded a la Colbert—in cases (Fig. 
BGA) 5 ceca atts bie a am wares atm gee BOL 
— molded a l’échiquier—in cases...... 852 
— molded a la Parisian, also called Tal- 
leyrand, Polignac, Polish, Soyer.. 852 
— molded with foies-gras—in cases..... 852 
— omelets (see omelets)............ re yet) 
— on a dish (Figs. 566, 567)...... slate 856 
—onadish, Bercy......... Veleeae ieee 7 Oe 
— ona digh, Bienvenue .....scescesees 807 
—ona dish, Condé........ hie Pete OO f 
— on a dish, Creole style ......0...02.- 857 
— ona dish, English style............. 857 
— ona dish, Fermiére......ccseccesees S807 
— ona dish, Monaco.......ccscccssees 807 
— on adish, Omer Pacha.........e.eee 857 
— ona dish, Plumerey...........02--. 808 
— ona dish, Rossini.......... ecceseee 858 
— on a dish, Venetian style............ 858 
— on a dish, with bacon...... ova Sate ate . 858 
— ona dish, with cépes...........06.5 858 
— ona dish, with chopped ham......... 858 
—onadish, with tomatoes............ 858 
— poached, a la Boéldieu (Fig. 568)..... 858 
— poached, 4 la Benedick.............. 858 
— poached, 4 la Bourguignonne—baked 859 
— poached, 4 la matelote.............. 859 
— poached, 4 la Mirabeau. ............ 859 
— poached, 4 la Villeroi ..... ........ 859 
— poached, 4 la Wright Sanford....... 859 
— poached, with gravy................ 859 
— poached, with purée of chicken supreme 860 
— poached, with spinach .............. 860 
— scrambled, 4 la Columbus (Fig. 569). 860 
— scrambled, 4 la Duxelle....... fos aeeOU 
— scrambled, 4 la Jerome..........0- «SOL 
— scrambled, a la Martinez............ 861 
— scrambled, in a risot border with 
ducks’slivers.2(08i6 Jo. eae 861 
— scrambied, with anchovy croustades.. 860 
— scrambled, with fine herbs......... . 861 
— scrambled, with gravy............. Fem s¥E 
— scrambled, with lobster, garnished 
with Villeroi oysters............3 861 
— scrambled, with mushrooms......... 861 
— scrambled, with Périgord truffles.... 862 
— scrambled, with Piedmont truffles... 862 
— scrambled, with sweetbreads.. ..... 862 
— scrambled, with Swiss and Parmesan 
cheese jac eaes er ine os tah 862 
— scrambled, with tomato purée........ 862 
— scrambled, with tomatoes and chives. 862 
— soft, a la Chipolata (Fig. 570)........ 863 
— soft, for epicures...........ececeee . 863 
— soft, with purée of sorrel...... ares 863 
— snow, or floating islands............ 915 


Eggs, snow, molded........ 


— stuffed..........-..00. 


— with cream, meringued.. 


eoceeseeeoeeseevee 


e@eceoveeoeeeseeve 


oe +r'ereeeeee 


— with coffee, cream meringued. ...... 


Eggplant a la Duperret—broiled.. 
— ala Morton—in cases... 


— ala Robertson ...... 


Elementary Methods..... 


eceteeoeeees ee e 


— Almonds and filberts, burnt......... 
— Almonds, Condé or filbert preparation. 


— Almond cream 


eeoeeeoe 


— Almond milk.......... 


— Almond paste for fancy cakes....... : 
— Almond paste with cooked sugar..... 


— Almond paste with egg- 


yolks..... wee 


— Almond paste with gum tragacanth. . 
— Almond paste with pistachios........ 
— Almonds, pistachios or filberts, to peel. 
— Almonds, to chop or shred .......... 
— Almonds, to pound, crush or color... 


— Baba paste............ 
— Blanch rice, to........ 
— Blanch vegetables, to. . 


eeeee eee oa a45 


eeeeeveee eee eo 


— Bone pou!try or game, to........... 

— Borders for dishes, of noodle, cooked 
paste, and metal (Figs. 1 to 6) ... 

— Borders of English paste or gum 


paste (Fig. 6a)..... 


— Bouchées, to prepare (Figs. 16, 17, 18). 
— Braize, to poéler, smother or sautér 


ee@eeveeereeeece 


— Bread, to, with bread-crumbs, English 
style, flour, Milanese, crackers and 


deviled............ 


— Brioche paste ......... 
— Butter, clarified and purified 


eeroeeoeeve- eee 


— Butter, cold, for buttering molds..... 


— Butter for buttering molds .... 
— Caramels, to prepare liquid 
— Carmine coloring...... 
— Carve fish, how to (Fig. 


eoeerteeveeesn 


24)... ee 


— Carve goose or duck, how to (Fig. 34). 


— Carve hot ham, how to 


(Fig. 81)..... 


— Carve leg of mutton, how to (Fig. 32). 
— Carve loin and kernel of veal, how to. 
— Carve partridges, how to (Figs. 25, 26, 


— Carve pigeons, how to. 


— Carve prairie chicken or grouse, how 


eoceeeree esse eee 


— Carve pullet or capon, how to (Figs. 


30, 36, 37)......... 


eeee se eeeese 


— Carve roast beef ribs, how to (Fig. 29). 
— Carve roast turkey, how to (Fig. 38).. 


INDEX. tan 


PaGca. ne Pine 


Ee iasatary Methods— Elementary Methods— 
— Carve saddle of braized mitton. how : — Forcemeat, baking, for ordinary use.. 191. 
RIRTAPIT SE GOONER ws ss ase a P's bes vw 179 — Forcemeat, bread stuffing, English 
— Carve saddle of roasted mutton, bane and American style.............. 187 
or venison, how to.............. = 179 — Forcemeat, chicken, fish or game, 
— Carve tenderloin of beef, how to (Fig. with whipped cream and butter... 188 
Rua ee et Cees ak ds sco e's 178 — Forcemeat, chicken, or game, without 
— Carve, to, on the table (Figs. 19, 20, DAMA ds ett e le oe ee ee 187 
722 hans Sa gol a 176 — Forcemeat, chicken liver, fine baking 188 
— Chopped parsley (see parsley bouquet). 201 — Forcemeat, chopped, for chicken gal- : 
-— Chopped parsley, truffles, onions, BNUNES. trae te See Seats hea 188 
shallots, mushrooms, tongue and — Forcemeat, chopped, for country sau- 
CONT AL Sl Biles e/a ee a er a 180 sages withisage 7s oo seehes wwe cs 189 
— Coat jelly molds and mold jellies, to — Forcemeat, chopped, for game galan- 
ODE UPS at ea ier 181 LINGH LR oh tare ioe er a aeos eee 188 
— Cochineal red, coloring.............. 182 — Forcemeat, chopped, for game pie... 188 
— Cocoanut, to prepare................ 181 — Forcemeat, chopped, for ordinary sau- 
— Colorings—carmine and redcochineal. 182 BALOS Wea ye we Ver eee Se aoa tal ee 189 
Pe tOO1OTS, VESELADIC. oe... ee ces eevee 181 — Forcemeat, chopped, with chestnuts 
— Cooked paste for fanciful borders.... 202 and chestnuts and truffles—cooked 189 
— Court-bouillon, plain................ 182 — Forcemeat, chopped, with truffles.... 189 
— Court-bouillon with wine............ 182 — Forcemeat, codfish, for stuffing fish.. 189 
Bete Pen, MiINOUU Sects ey ccecs see wes ees 182 — Forcemeat, cooked and raw game or 
—— Cream cake paste... ...20...cecseses 202 chicken, for lining paper cases... 189 
— Cream, English, with coffee......... 182 — Forcemeat, cream chicken, béchamel 
— Cream, English, with vanilla, lemon and mushroom purée............ 190: 
. MEMOTUU PE ZeSt ions esse eee ee 182 — Forcemeat, cream chicken or game. 190 
— Cream, Frangipane, with chocolate or — Forcemeat, cream, of fish............ 190 
REE S y oie cnc suas o e's @ 183 — Forcemeat, fish, baked.............. 190 
— Cream, Frangipane, with vanilla..... 183 — Forcemeat, foies-gras ............... 190: 
RPT NOOR oa ve cue s'ese dees 183 — Forcemeat, for borders, bottoms of 
— Cream, pistachio or nut............. 183 dishes and surtouts of chicken or 
— Cream, pastry, with vanilla.......... 183 PANG WILDa TCC: eget. ket eee 190° 
Bement? COUI1Ob Gas cna cs sic ava eevee te se 183 — Forcemeat for borders, bottoms of 
pei ream, St. Honore... 0. cece eds ne 183 dishes and surtouts of foies-gras 
— Cream, whipped or Chantilly........ 184 end chicken sit tc... cous ds aw 190: 
— Croiitons, to prepare, for soups, roasts, — Forcemeat, Godiveau of chicken... . 191 
vegetables, eggs, game, etc. (Figs. — Forcemeat, Godiveau of pike........ 19%: 
OM eRe oak cea iow et cals se * 184 — Forcemeat, Godiveau of rabbit or 
— Crusts, to make plain puff paste (Fig. DEST. CARING ates oe dee cele a nS eae AS} 
OMe T tess cee te tee st ee ens 185 — Forcemeat, Godiveau of veal........ 191, 
— Crusts, to prepare hollow (Figs. 42, — Forcemeat, mousseline, chicken..... 191 
EWA GSE os to Cats tne base ss 184 — Forcemeat, mousseline, game........ 192: 
— Dish bottoms, foundations and sup- — Forcemeat, mousseline, salmon ..... 192 
POT eve h ches esr e tee here se 171 — Forcemeat, quenelle, chicken, with 
Bee irecsitp AStG . 2.75 sstciseeeces ess 202 Soubise or tomato............... 192 
eetieeie tO SKIN ayia cts sss ve seecesee.s 186 — Forcemeat, quenelle, fish......... tae 19S 
— Egging and moistening ............ 185 — Forcemeat, quenelle, game.......... 192 
— Eggs, to beat the whites of (Fig. 46)... 185 — Forcemeat, quenelle, lamb..... tee 198. 
— English paste for borders ........... 2038 — Forcemeat, ravioles of beef, chicken fe 
— Fancy frills for cutlets, chicken legs or BI VORE £OE om cis fa oe 2 k's ops ‘ ae 
wings (Figs. 14, 15)........- oo oo es Yh — Forcemeats, remarks on...........-. 186 
— Fancy frills for large pieces, oe of — Forcemeats, to arrange, prepare, make 
mutton or ham (Figs. 12, ek 172 and rectify (Figs. 47, 48, 49)...... ie 
—— Wat for frying... 2... cscs cece ees e ee 185 — Foundation paste, fine......... .... 203: 
— Fat for socles and flowers........... 185 — Foundation paste, ordinary orshort.. 203: 
mee VOP (TLS E. Con des cee vesne cee ce see 173 — Fried parsley (see parsley bouquet).. 201 
— Filbert paste with cooked sugar...... 201 — Frolle or sweet paste........-+.esee- - 
— Fish slice (Fig. 24)... «.ssssseeee 177 — Frying batters. ........+.eeeseeeeees 208: 
— Fish, to scale and clean..... Paes 6 186 ms FRING 60 DONE iin's pattinc v's nie v oe He woo 11 


— Flawn paste......... A gee eee aa 203 — Gelatine, to prepare from calf’s feet, 193: 
w—~ PONGADE fe vecc yess ete creseias cies 186 4. — Gelatine, to prepare from pig’sskin.. 194 


EPICUREAN. 


1154 THE 
Elementary Methods— 
—~ Gherkinssve.v. 2 ev sey cos sie Sta lenareiet 
— Grated horseradish and ribbons..... 
— Grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese... 
— Grease flowers, to make.... ....0.ee0 
men Hains, for WINteRss Ove weraiets. a sie eter 
mm HAMS LO SAlbCe ese cote ese he tle sia 
— Hatelets for hot removes and entrées 
(skewers) (Fig 11 yoes iia te 
— Icing, chocolate—cooked............ 
— Icing, cocoa—cooked............006. 
— Icing, royal, and flavored with zests.. 
— Icing, uncooked fruit juices ......... 


— Icing, with syrup, for cakes flavored 
with vanilla, orange, lemon and 
frail; JOMES sac ale ea oes Vem res 

— Jelly, aspic, to prepare, clarify and fil- 
ter (Rigs) 50,01}. c.cen aainereaiers s 

— Jelly, calf’s foot, with Madeira wine. 

— Jelly, meat, with gelatine............ 

—— Jelly molds; to COAt. Wie. c2. aisle weet 


— Jelly, 


sweet, with gelatine or fish 


ISIN ASS. Wil Peet ae weer ete tate 


— Lard. 
— Lard meats, 


cee eset eee eee er ee ee ee Goo ewe eee eo 


poultry and game, to 


CEES, GO tO DOE toxic Sc lapel ela klv lotr 


— Lard, axunge 


esceceoeesvneeeree ee eee 08 8 @ 


a Herd eal Udder es Www a wires vere 
— Larding pork, to prepare...........- 
— Larding, to cut fat pork for (Figs. 52 


to 55) 
— Lemons, 


to cut in various manners 


(Wigs. 60, | OL) cscs tala iote ce npyay 
—- Marinade; Cookeds a. 5 \suws ts cams cares a 
— Marinade, raw. ‘ 
— Meringues, ine ‘iS eo Gig. 62). . 


— Mincemeat 


oe eee ev ec eeee ee ee eee eo oe 


— Mushrooms, to turn, channel and flute 
— Olives, to stone (Fig. 63)............ 
— Panada, cream Frangipane.......... 
— Panada of flour and milk, bread-crumb 


and pate-a chou.. 


— Panada, wheat and rice flour........ 


chopped 
— Paste, 


seeeeneeee etree ee eevee ee O88 


almond, for fancy cakes....... 


— Paste, almond, with cooked sugar ... 


— Paste, 
— Paste, 
— Paste, 
— Paste, 


almond, with egg-yolks...... 
almond, with gum tragacanth. 
almond, with pistachios....... 


sm Paste,’ BrioGhe sss os Ws its Wee's ease a 


— Paste, 


cooked, for fanciful borders... 


— Paste, cream cake (Pate-d-chou)...... 


— Paste, 
— Paste, 
— Paste, 


GresSiN Ps Oe ue ee aye Sale letn 
English, for borders.......... 
filbert, with cooked sugar. ... 


——- Paste, Tes, a. vate nels ete eet e Miareate 


— Paste, 


— Paste. 
— Paste, 


flawn 


Proller9 Pewee ches sew ateye as 
frying battersicn ess ae ee anes 


Pace. of 
Elementary Methods— 
194 — Paste, Macaroon......c.ccecceeee re 
194 — Paste, marchpane, with orange-flower 
194 waters. #5. Ss aioe ae eee 
186 — Paste, meringue, plain.............. 
175 — Paste, ltalian meringue:... 2. .en ee 
175 — Paste, Milan... 00.0.0. cease cee 
— Paste, noodle, for borders........... 
172 -— Paste, office... 5 (0.0. os so) ean eee 
194 — Paste, pie—cold: i. 0.560. .ss<uuauen 
194 — Paste,. ple—hoti....)olvidd es ee ee 
195 — Paste, puff and half puff (Figs. 64, 65 
195 66)... 2490's a ee 
— Paste; Raviole,. oo .40t2e.ceeae eee 
— Paste, repére for fastening.......... 
195 — Paste, Savarin.o. . 3. ¢.4.0 1.06 eee 
— Paste, short. .V.. i. .d00 eee 
195 — Paste, sweet............ Sake btn Aetna 
196 — Paste, tart: 3s 25. 2.9 oats eo See 
196 — Pasté, timbale; .......3440. Sele 
181 — Patties, small puff (Figs. 67, 68, 69).. 
— Poéler meats, to. .:5. 2.) 223 ee 
196 — Poach quenelles, small timbales and 
196 mousselines, to... s..26) eee 
— Press meat for juice, galantines, breasts 
197 sweetbreads, etc., to (Figs. 70, 71). 
196 — Quenelles, decorated, molded and 
197 pocket, to prepare (Figs. 72 to 79). 
197 — Quenelles, to mold with a spoon— 
plain, filled or rolled in flour (Figs. 
197 80 to 84). ko. 
— Raise, pare and poach breasts of poul- 
198 try and. game, to. t's. ee 
199 — Raisins and currants, to clean—Smyr- 
199 na and Malaga.” .. £23.09) eee 
199 — Ravioles (Fig. 85, 86, 87) ........... 
199 — Reduce and strain sauces through a 
199 tammy, to (Figs. 88)............. 
200 — Rice for croustades and with cream... 
200 — Rissoles, to prepare (Fig. 89, 90). ... 
— Roots, to cut with a spoon or a vege- 
200 table cutter (Figs. 91, 92).......... 
200 — Roux, blond and brown............. 
— Rum, flavored with vanilla, spirit of 
200 strawberries, raspberries and apri- 
201 COtS..4 6s Fa. neo dn oe 
201 — Salpicon, how to prepare............ 
201 — Salt hams, to...¢ 4. 2 fe ass 
201 — Sautér meats, to... «2.05500 se ee 
201 -— Scald, toe . pss osc su. 45 oven ee 
201 — Sieve cloth of different size meshes 
902 (Figs. 93 to 98)...): .2..0% eee 
202 — Smother meats, to................0 
202 — Spices, aromatics and seasonings for 
202 cooking purposes... swseuenee 
203 — Stearine, how to cast and color...... 
201 — Stock, white, for meats and vegetables 
203 —- Strain purée (Figs. 99, 99a, 99b)..... 
203 — Sugar of different colors = icing 
2038 SUPA»: 5. <u ncaaie aie at eee ae 
203 -—- Sugar, to cook . 2oi025, 4 eee 
203 ke -— Tart, band (Fig. 100). }... occas 


Paae. 


204 


204 
204 
204 
204 
204 
204 
204 
205 


205 
206 
204 
206 
203 
203 
206 
206 
206 
173 


209 


209 





INDEX. 


PAGE. 


Elementary Methods— 
— Tart, empty, Ancient style (Fig. 101). 217 
— Thickenings for soups, sauces and 


Bie etre iciate shes Uke was ees eels « 218 
— Timbale crusts, to line and bake..... 218 
— Triangle for dressing tongues, ete. 

REO IEE Merah ed wee Owe u's ce as 172 
— Truffles, to brush and peel.......... 219 


— Truss, singe and dress poultry and 
game for entrées (Figs. 102, 108, 
UL Eke ht eee 219 
— Truss, singe and dress poultry and 
game for roasting (Figs. 105to111) 219 


ee WOME ATOUOE, . cas. as Wins ci css « Seis aie 197 
— Vegetable colors............... ee, 181 
— Vol au-vent crust (Fig. 112)......... 221 
— Vol-au-vent crust in two pieces (Figs. 
EER Ae oeeic oe ksh ewe 221 
— White stock for meat and vegetables. 221 
— Winter hams, for.............. ee WO 
Endives or escaroles glazed.............. 827 
English paste for borders ............. 208 
Escalops of beef palates with purée of 
chestiuts (Fig 422)... ... 0. et ee 690 
— of beef with truffles—tenderloin..... 690 
— of chicken, Financiére............... 691 
—of fat livers with risot, Périgueux 
OL re tae I eee ag ag ea 691 
— of fat livers, Ala Rulli.............. 691 
— of fat livers Villeneuve:............ 691 
— of lamb or veal a la Habirshaw...... 692 
— of pheasants with olives............. 692 
— of swéetbreads, a la Caréme......... 692 
— of veal a l’Arnold—kernel........... 692 
— of young hare a la Roederer, garnished 
MSD AUOMCIIOS. 5.225. or ss os ois eo 692 
ES Oa eee 827 
Meme vy feyvor PIS... sc . e ae ee et eee cee 173 
— frills for cutlets, chicken legs or wings 
“yg ST 9 Ae we gare irac 173 
— frills for large pieces, leg of mutton 
or ham (Figs, 12, 18).'........... 172 
ME OPRRCNAD ecu Aes coe. Se ke ves eee ss 185 
— for socles and flowers..........+-.+++ 185 
— livers a la Toulousiane—whole (Fig. 
eee eet cais'> ven slus tosses 693 
Fedelini, vermicellini au Cardinal....... 865 
Figs, brandied.............ssssceseecees 1050 
GUM CGT Biv iele pee Vivi vise o's wie es emcees 1053 
— marmalade.........-sseeeeeees sone 2008 
Filbert paste............--seeceeeeecee 201 
Filter fruit juices, to...........seeeeees 916 
Fiori di latte (see ices)............0.06- 991 
Fish slice (Figs. 24, 289, 290).........+- 177, 436 
— toscale and clean.......... eter 186 
Flamri of apples..........sceeeeseeeees 916 
PO CTORU Ph aaie sd doe ne chr eves eeeenes 916 
Pint ROME ss ok wide deste srs ceo eee 916 
Flavor sugar with zests of vanilla....... 916 
— syrups With zests......2seeeeeeeeeee 916 
Flawn. a la Manhattan..........s+5eee+- 884 


— apple—latticed......sseeeeeeererees 917 


Flawn, apricot (Fig. 589, 590)............ 
ome ant Lion d’Or:. 2. ..s ce Wales oe 


=~ POOKEDEITY Freier nen «oat ate tee ee 
— MOVIN PUG sates Nec aake sone stare 
me AGCLAIENOF oe Gone can GE TK cet eaeon ee ece 


eeeerevesn 


eeoeer eee ee eeeeeeoeed 


=~ '& 1a Dieppoise.c occ. d tees sap eels ced 
on Bf IRATORIIA. ete rpaten s waters testes elmer 


= Provencal style... 2 <s40 1a > <oean Cees 
Flowers of pulled sugar (Figs. 735 to 741). 


Folés-eras in border sos... os vee 


— in cradle, to be cut in slices.......... 
Fond antent foes ne are ee eee 
— dipped in strawberry or raspberry... 

aT CHOCOLALO SS Sree a aie naires Lt ee 


Fontage croustades a la Flavignan....... 
Forcemeat, baking for ordinary use...... 
~~ chicken, fish or game, with whipped 
erga and DAUt6n Mien, one cave c ea: 

— chicken liver, fine baking........... 
— chicken or game, without panada... - 
— chopped, for chicken galantines...... 
— chopped, for country sausages with 


— chopped, for game pie.............. 
— chopped, for ordinary sausages...... 
— chopped, with chestnuts and chest- 
nuts and truffles—cooked........ 
— chopped, with truffles............... 
— codfish, for stuffing fish............. 
— cooked and raw game or chicken, for 
lining paper cases, .....,...s.ee6 
— cream chicken, béchamel and mush- 
POOWT POLEG. eae vwk Secs cess cs 
— cream chicken or game............+. 
om CYCAIM, OLONOU ace sh cee res tsk ce ses 
em FBT DAIIOU: Fats citats see ee ca Sia aa 6 a aes 
— FOIES-BTAS.. 2... creer sccnccecceccece 
—for borders, bottoms of dishes and 
surtouts of chicken or game with 
PICO Peete eas Cees See e ee 
— for borders, bottoms of dishes and sur- 
touts of foies-gras and chicken.... 
== mousseline. Chicken 0. .iuisesseevy ss 
— mousseline, ZAMEC.....cescereesccoes 
— mousseline, sainione.4.0 eS oa 
—quenelle, chicken, with soubise o 
FOMIALO A, ve eles econ seucet anes: 


1156 THE EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. ws PAGE. 
Forcemeat, quenelle, game............+. 192 Galantine of pheasant, Voliére 4 la Casi- 
— quenelle, lamb........... BEY data eleva 193 mir Périer (Hig. 401); eee 728 
— ravioles of beef, chicken and veal, for. 193 — of pheasant, Voliére a la Waddington 729 
ane TEMIATKS OD ces ey cs wine tree's va eee 186 — Of pigeons: 2. 2x55 ss. sci ee eee 758: 
— to prepare, make and rectify (Figs. 47, —of pullet or capon a la Mozart (Fig. 
AS NAGY err ns mee la ae as eae ee eis 186 ASO) os Saco awe em sielelom teen 758: 
Foundation paste, fine........ PR Oe See Ns: — of suckling pigs. ©. 206s oe 758. 
== OTGMATY OF GHOTE Cw sc, seas se ¢ sods 203 — of turkey ala Berger (boned turkey) 
Freeze champagne, how to (Figs. 768, (Fig. 490). hee eee iv weet ROS 
769). Lats Seat gp ownk ete 3 Ba ee eee . 1065 Galettes puffed and half puffed......... 2 a DOR: 
Fritters, alliance........... Send ule a Soe aie Game... vac. oor c kes bole eee 637 
eNO ONY cc 5.5 6 orc eme ¢ xiaie.w ive mibiaiaeiass .. 3868 — to. bone, oo. 6% oye vs ob ee vice 170: 
— apple—glazed and unglazed. . Nmueoon Garnishings (cold) avichoke bottoms 
— apple, quartered. ..........e.cecee. = @ O06 filled with macédoine.......... oe Ss 
— apple with prunelle or with kirsch.. 885 — artichoke bottoms, imperial....... -- 15% 
— apricot or peach with maraschino..... 885 — eggs & la Develle.... 2.55. cease 760: 
— brioche and cream with sabayon..... 886 — eggs a la Jardiniére. ...........cc0e0 760: 
mm COLCTIAGL cos,s scabs ot eee ad pe eae 886 — eggs a la Juliétte..... .. 0. cseue eee 760 
— cherry, fresh or brandied Cots cteteane 886 — eggs ala Justine...........e00 alee eee 
— corn (see sirloin of beef).........2.4. 482 — eggs a la Rouennaise..............5 760: 
== Cream Of TIC6.. Jc. des cae vcesie ots obese OOO — eggs, barrel-shaped..............00- 761 
— Montagnard.....cccedscvecs Satan es aT OOD — eggs, basket shape (Fig. 491)........ 761. 
— Mundane .........e.0. Peas cast cake aoe es — eggs in chandfroid...........0 66 sees 761. 
— orange a la Talleyrand............. 887 —eggs halved (Fig. 492).............. 761. 
ome POA? cae aler sarees sess ee udigea enone 2050 — eggs, Moscovite..... 2.5.5 ace oe 761 
wes DIV FAPONO.) .’4. sete cis satel stasis ee ee 887 — eggs, Polish style...........5.105 ‘761 
— souffléd a la Médicis...... oaraiemies SAL user! — eggs quartered, decorated (Fig. 493)... 762: 
— souffléd with lemon peel....... Pe eee. — eggs stuffed with salpicon........... 162 
— souffléd with roasted hazel-nuts..... . 888 — eggs vase-shaped (Fig. 494).......... 762. 
— strawberry with macaroons, garnished — eggs whole—yolks (fig. 495).. ..... 762: 
with glazed strawberry fritters... 888 — for cold desserts... 2; % isu nese een 918. 
— Triumvirate, Roman..... sevens eee ah age OOO — mushrooms glazed with chaudfroid— 
Frogs (Wig-127)).. <ccne tes eee owes Tele a e stuffed (Fig. 496).........000- Py eee i) 
Frogs’ legs 4 la d’Antin....... on Zs ees nc ety cL — olives, Spanish—stuffed (Fig. 497).... 762: 
— & 1a Osborn tea sep vp es selene Vemeaer aut — oysters in croustades......... 2s eee 762: 
— ala poulette with mushrooms....... 407 — oysters with jelly... .,....:0seseebeunen toe 
— deviled. nu Gesscees cob ants eres eae Garnishings (hot)...... PE re 
— fried a la Orly.......... So Lae cones asa Eee — admiral ........... PEPE re 
— fried, with cream sauce....cce-ceeee A407 — ala Reine....... se ces otie-e 6 delete ute ttt anmenanaaa 
— Royerl, 7 iy. scsewess Somme oc chi — Andalouse........... od aceon Pe yee Ki 
Frolle or sweet paste..... pause aie saeeta sth ous — Aquitaine .......se.ees oe eee BEV Se 331 
Frostfish or whiting, Cherbourg style.... 440 — barley 4 la Reine........... RP A 4: me 715 A 
— or whiting, baked......ccccccesccvcee 440 —beef tongue, Andalusian tomato 
— or whiting, fried............ ‘apd ean SAU SAUCE... .. seen meen “eee ak eek 
Fruits a la Creole (Fig. 576)......0.0002- 889 — bouchées of purée of pheasants...... 332° 
— as side dishes..... en's be walee ne sseatie -OOk — Bourgeoise..... ........ oo on tae eure 
pre POSIT ANG. ALY ss cneia wns eens see Bee WS 3-2) — Brétigny <5. +40 30% 6s cea oe ekals | Seema 
nome FTLIGOS Fieve a ace a a's’ o Sujoree Hole ie eee - 1052 — Brochettes, Parma. ........ o's abe ey, aeRO 
— preserved, candied and crystallized... 1054 — Brussels............. BEE 5. Pry ee 
Prying batters ..............% sated aie OE OO — calves’ brains, fried....... Pe Bec 3382. 
Galantine of chicken (Fig. 484).......... 752 — Cardinal, . 06.6. ..c0sees0 00 cneee eeu So 
— of chicken 4 la d’Orleans (Fig. 486).. 753 — carrots and peas (sirloin of beef)..... 483. 
— of duckling, pear-shaped............ 754 —cépes or mushrooms a la Duxelle— 
— of eel, decorated........ see. a teteceln 10s stuffed ... .i.kic oe en cere aes 333. 
— of gosling, melon-shaped............ 755 — cépes or mushrooms, minced with bé- 
— of Guinea fowls a la Lytton......... ‘755 chamel; 52... 2sesles epee 333. 
—of partridges 4 la Clémentine (Fig. — Provencal....... dpa eaten A ci 333: 
AST) cn eet ees eS eee eee nergy pitied (573 — Chambord... 22 7.. ake c ec eee ee 333. 
— of partridges and sliced in Bellevue... 756 — cheese crusts and Chester cheese.... 383. 
— of partridges, Elizabeth.........0-. 756 — chestnuts with gravy........... re 3 
' of pheasant 4 la Lorenzo..... faanecer 404 — Chevreuse......c.s005 Sates Aas aiieratas 334. 


— of pheasants, cut up (Fig. 488)...... 757 % | — chicken minion fillets............... 334 


INDEX. lin? 


ee PAGE. PAGE 
Garnishings (hot), Chipolata............ 354 - Garnishings (hot), purée of celery, celery 
—- choux with cheese........ oe eee knobs.and cardoons ../.....00%%. 344 
— cocks’-combs a la Colbert............ 335 =~ puree of chestnuts... OY. acess see ce 344 
— Connétable ...........000. Sree s ern ee OOO — purée of chicken.... .... emenne on 344 
Bem EOAN ESC Ue ey Av oe calviales ov 6. <see ves ce 885 — purée of cucumbers..........cc00ee . 844 
— Demidoff........... (acinar a oD — purée of flageolets.............. wee) eee 
— Dolphettes of chicken............. SU rOOO — purée of game..... rer ata . 345 
-— Dolphettes of tenderloin of beef...... 336 — purée of garlic.........00 eis Pie 345 
Se RR ERE eee Pe OR ca ee eee as he wo e's 336 — purée of Kohl-rabies........... Seees — O40 
Ber eP is With CHOESO.. oo. cde. cea esc 0s se 333 — purée of lentils with cream..... rises. 040 
eee IROL iat c oGhe ctl c ccs cece 'ca sc 336 ~- puree Of, lettiec@ css ives st esces case 345 
— Financiére for removes and entrées... 336 — purée of lima or broad beans ....... 345 
SEE CTOIEI Pe Me ree 5s pals bake oes ese's . 9836 — purée of lobster ....... cece en ecves 345 
aE OUI Li ook Oak sense vice ces - 9836 —, purée of mushrooms and morils, culti- 
— fritadelles of roast beef....... eee 307 Vated and swild [ose ied acs eee 346 
=— iritadelles of veal. ............. pete. 337 — purée of peas—split ......... 0.2000 346 
— Godard....... (err are Eadiseee ses) Oot — purée of potatoes...........> Seats ore 346 
= POOSCDEITY.. 0.0500 sec cees wel aitieca.ee 447 — purée of pumpkin. .........eeeeeee 347 
PREC OOMIGELCRSS Sy cs 5 aieven'e scls oes cee 05 337 = purée of sorrel ss; oii). ssseews se ows. OFF 
eI OS ree ct ies cke cena se cseee 337 — purée of spinach or chicory.......... 347 
BP EIOUFION «. 6 20.0 ose vo ee ere ee 337 — puree of sweet potatoes.........e000. 346 
RIE TRUA A est wis) holiness a 6.6 oe 0d 0.6 308 — purée of tomatoes ...........0..00 . 9847 
eet PUM TOPO as Sata heels wie eee st eee 338 — purée of truffles and truffles with rice. 347 
—— livers ala Vincelas...«.sc.cccedescees 338 —= puree of tUTHIPSs 7. os iss wane es cet. 347 
— livers, chicken, in cases or croustades 3888 — purée of white onions, soubise or 
ORD eg eid aia ics ss neces cive scot oe 9 588 PIOWNi gs. cere cu ew eurea hae es 346 
Be FUROCOOING Si ss vce lcw se Seucenes 338 — purée; sOUDISED 2) ie eicee cs seca ce eee 346 
— marrow and chives canapés.......... 339 — quenelles of cheese............+..8. 348 
9 yo. ee i 339 — quenelles of chicken or game, molded 
— marrow fritters with truffles........ 3389 if S98 00Ne fee cs: Bao Ne ett cine 348 
0) 0) a rae a Sees? ooo — quenelles of fish, molded and pocket 
— matelote Bourguignotte............. 339 chicken quenelles.......... «se 348 
— matelote mariniére...........66. case. Ooo —quenelles, godiveau of veal, pike, 
— matelote Normande................. 339 chicken or game.......... cup ater ae 
Sore eer ek Sees nas eV ae eee 340 =~ Ramisollesiysei soir cp ee ede ase as . 848 
— mirmidons with parmesan....... ee = B40 — rice, Indian style, and with butter.... 348 
— moril and girolle. .........sseseseece 340 — Richelieu, ancient and modern....... 349 
— mousserons, Princess Sauce........0. 340 = risot, Piedmontese. ss... .+ 5.02 e-s-s 349 
— mushrooms a la Delsart..........+- . 841 — Rothschild and cocks’-kidneys, Vil- 
— mussels 4 la Villeroi......... Seateutess 342 REPOM etme cate ana eek ana hens 349 
— mussels Bordelaise.........cceercece 341 —salpicon, Columbian. ...........e06. 350 
— noisettes of veal and lambs’ fries; fleu- — salpicon, fat livers...... ew se ke uae 300 
PeReeerRUCOt seria etee ss ses oes 341 — Sal Micon; FE lAViICnaN. i. ss ww chown 6: 350 
— olives, plain or stuffed...........00. 341 — salpicon garnishings..........ee.ee 349 
— oronges 4 la Livournaise........+++ 341 — salpicon, Hunter's. 0.02. ol ieeccee so 300 
— oyster 4 la Tykopf........60-+eee os O42 — salpicon, lobster, shrimp or crawfish 
— oysters & la Villeroi........+-.+0.+4+ 342 with mushrooms or truffles...... . on 
— oysters for shells for patties with — salpicon, Montglas........seeeseeees 300 
POMAUTOOMIS ss Osos ec ces e eeuess . 842 — salpicon, Palermitaine............... 350 
— palate of beef a la Mancelle, in cases. 342 — salpicon, Prévillot............ Cen cn tare 
— Polpettes.........ccececeesecereeece 842 — salpicon, Régence, fat or lean........ 350 
— prawns, crawfish, crabs or lobsters — salpicon, Royal Pearce es CE anes imat 2 | 
with raw fine herbs.......+.-+++- 342 . = gsalpicon, Tyabss a, Oe Ce ere eo x 
BE PFOVONCRI: Sse sees cece veces nendes 342 — salpicon, turtle......6. secssecreee 
— purée sf artichoke bottoms and Jeru- — sausage, fer Chipolata, Lubeck or : 
salem artichokes...... ewe ewer . 3848 Strasburg—smoked sn eeecceccens - 851 
— purée of asparagus........e+ee0- .-. 848 a scallop shells for relevés...... ereeees 3 ot 
— purée of Bretonne beans.......+-- .. 348 -— Spanish, sweet peppers—sautéd..... ae 
— purée of Brussels sprouts .......+++- 343 — spinal marrow..... Edn picket aoasise core san 
— purée of cabbage, Milan or Savoy.... 343 — straws cheese..... siette Pncztease: i stk: 
— purée of carrots........ Cgeeeeiees O48 — Swiss cheese souffié—small et eee 35 
344 — tartlets 4 la Parmentier.. .......++. . 802 


— purée of cauliflower or sea-kale...... 


1158 THE EPICUREAN. 
PAGE. 
Garnishings (hot), tartlets of noques with Grouse or prairie hen cutlets 4 la Ségard.. 
PAlWeSals aes aioe Rete ee eas . 9802 —or prairie hens roasted with gravy, 
— tartlets, Polenta: ..4<s%s.ones0 wnatarsinves 303 fried bread-crumbs or apple sauce 
—~ tartletsSemolino. c's adie eceinle soe 353 — or prairie hens ala Tzarina—breasts 
— tartlets, spinach. .......cscseescesce 353 (Hig. SOS). 5 cle is de -c Aateabeoete nee 
— tartlets with cream and parmesan ... 353 Gudgeons or white bait fried in butter.... 
=~ LOULOUSGin ok cine nae s meee eee eae 353 Guinea fowl (Fig. 378) ...............4: 
soe CEILI Cecio btu cae Sic gauss tu acters 303 — larded and decorated with their own 
em TUTEO. ANG IOP. LOAN: a cicsie wpiere chee a ene 304 feathers—roasted.........ccec eee 
— wings of turkey or pullet ala Villeroi. 354 — fillets a la Gaillardet............... . 
— Yorkshire pudding............... .  38d4 — with sauerkraut, ... .ca.e0 Oe apt A 
SREY} Aig Bi hoaiatied AUM aaned egmeruba remy eae cine 445 Gum paste, .20.5 <0: ieee te eee 
Gelatine, to prepare from calf’s feet...... 193 Gurnet, marinated............... <i ae 
— to prepare from pig’s skin....... pennies 817 | Haddoek, ancient style...... .......... 
Genoese cake (see cakes) ......-.00 hone 085 — Finnan haddies, baked with cream... 
mr ETSERE narettate'c ona vate am ant ialle elmsepete crave wiehtia 952 — Finnan haddies, broiled maitre-d’hétel 
— with cream meringued............0. 952 — Hollandstyle.......... erry 
Gherkins (Fig): 206)... 20). 5. .cee 5c eis oe Mertens 18!) Halibut, Admiral (Fig. 292)............. 
— to prepare .......008. aime raceiateis eeatee 194 — & la Coligny...8 (jou 4. oon oo eee 
GROG cc. hint one ik hee ha cies crn 865 — a la Richmond......0.6:.00seesae eee 
=— Roman styler. scapes ale pie cen aes a OOO — Kadgiori.. 0... Gl. . 
— timbale a la Choiseul .............4. 870 — with fine herbs 4 la Reynal.......... 
Godiveau of chicken.............. bins ave 191 — chicken, baked, and with parmesan... 
== OF DIR OSes) Boo igual ateaters eine satiate 191 — chicken, with carrot sauce.......... : 
— of rabbit or other game ...........6. 191 Ham 4 la Benedict—roasted............. . 
= Of. Veale cus Se i aia ic ania Sets 191 — a la Gatti, decorated (Fig. 498)....... 
Golden buck, Welsh rarebit, 4 la Cutting —~ & la Leonard— boiled 7 ).2..5. eee : 
or’ orkshire os [ead tale sain atalee 389 — for winter... i:).. i.sdcbia eee : 
Goose a la Chipolata.............. sidiapirar 612 — glazed with sugar........cececeecces 
mio AE ELOY OP 5 tote weg eed aie ere de eee slaeuergi stiles - 612 — kernel & la Biarritz..........-ec0e0. 
— ala Thieblin—roasted...... sveiee mimes 612 = DIG. os is od eas wie eee | oh 
— breast, smoked. ......0.<s- satelite atine 366 — roasted on the spit, Madeira sauce, or 
— German style—roasted............-. 613 marinated and roasted, white wine 
— giblets with turnips........... materi ate 613 SAUCE, . » «5s a4 oe maiisiateely apa ene 
are CHONG TO Ee cisiess «ste Cae cintee Sie ake ae 614 — to Salt, 2° seen cane alee . 
— stuffed with chestnuts (Fig. 377)..... 613 — truffied a la Florian (Fig. 499)........ 
— with sausages and chestnuts—roasted. 613 — Westphalian, boiled and raw (Fig. 
Gooseberries with cream............... 918 207). « 4, xe\eneial nuda Sipe se 
Gooseberry cakes and tarts.............. 952 — with carrots, stuffed tomatoes or 
Gosling dla Soyers: co. ow. coco vem eee 613 mushrooms—braized and glazed.. 
ome (TOR Sb a adnsace wile fein aeneee eaten eee rte 614 — with Jardiniere—roasted. ........... 
— sautéd with tomatoes, Robert sauce.. 614 — with jelly, English (Fig. 500)....... : 
— stewed with turnips ................ 614 — with spinach—boiled...............6. 
Gramolates or granites (see iced drinks)... 1027 — with stringed eggs—Virginia ham.... 
Grape fruits 4 la Madison (see iced drinks) 1027 Hams of Chicken with Zampino........ : 
Grease flowers, to make........... Pret bes Hare a la Chatelaine—stuffed............ 
Green almonds, imitation of............ 1033 — back, roasted, with cream (Fig. 399).. 
Greengages, brandied...............006. 1050 — jugged .... 0s shah. sehen eee ‘ 
pens DYOROEVOUT vais iA Aes geek hi ee ee eee A033) — pie, without a mold................. 
Green peas a la Fleurette—(mangetout).. 827 — young, a la Castiglione—sautéd...... 
ate FUNGUS BEV IOS Bx wots acsseia’s ule wasiclele Wn fs — young, a la Polignac—épigrammes. . 
= MONCH SUV LO sa ua «ys siaiteciglels ene a bet e — young, cutlets ala Favorite......... 
— French style, with sugar........... hueeet — young, fillets, with currant jelly and 
iro housekeeper’s style........ my cenit 827 TAISIN, SAUCE... 5.2. be ee 
— Parisian style—small.............2. 828 — young, paupiettes, with stuffed olives 
se DH PEO, o, wl cee aan aire Bk acs nite bromtery Sie 827 Hash a la Sam Ward—tenderloin of beef. 
— with braised lettuces........ peice siege 828 — a la Sheppler—tenderloin of beef.... 
— with shredded lettuces...... aie iets ebro 828 ~— beef, corned: \....ics.daie diese ieee ee 
Grenades with cherries....... mate vials ate el 889 — beef, corned, American style......... 
Grouper a la Franklyn.................. 440 — chicken, ancient style............... 
Grouse (Fig. 394)... Soo ae ee ee ee he 639 — chicken—baked ............ vata 


— prairie hens or ptarmigans—broiled.,. 648 


— lamb, a la Célestine—baked........ ‘ 


PAGE. 


687 


643: 


643 
440 
615 


615. 
615: 
615. 
1034. 
367 
440: 
441 
441 
441 
441 
441 
442: 
442. 
442: 
442: 
442: 
574 
768. 
574. 
175: 
763: 
576: 
780: 


574. 
175. 
764. 


360: 


575: 
574. 
764. 
575: 
575: 
765 
644 
645 


—— eS 


Hash, lamb, Creole style....... See ae 
— lamb, with bananas........ wees Albie'ss 
— mutton, a la Omer Pacha........ St ee 
— partridge, a la Clémenceau....... ine 

“= pheasant... ... idee: areta neta aie ta «0.6 0 

_ — veal cakes, Brittany style............ 
— venison, American style, and with 

poached p78. Gaie.ca. odie c esses 
—— woodcock, in a croustade with soft 
er ee ate aarti oes bas ss ne a 
— young rabbit, garnished with cro- 
RCL Os Herea eck Kee aed a kis os cal 

Hatelets, Bellevue (Figs. 501 to 507)...... 
— chopped sticky jelly................ 
— chopped transparent jelly........... 
eS ee iio cecone wen cassidsesiees 
— for hot removes and entrées (skewers) 

Der Ser pa A on cial gs ton a. be 
ETNIES (ea | Cg ag eo 
SRRIINCOLENECOUSS 4's 5ihs 6b UKs ce cee wees 6 
NRE Stared olay Nos aie Siu dw 0:0 oa) 4 fa: 

RM) CREO Oe vine Siete «os cco ble e's ves ; 
— pig’s, purée of split green peas...... 
— wild boar, decorated (Fig. 537)..... Bie 

Herrings, fresh, 4 la Calaisienne......... 
— fresh, mustard sauce..............- ; 


— fresh, thickened maitre-d’hdétel sauce 
— Dutch, paupiettes of, Polonaise...... 


— paupiettes with milts................ 
— salt, with mashed potatoes........... 
— shad or mackerel, marinated......... 
— smoked........ EOE TES 
— smoked and salted with cream....... 
Hominy and Samp (crushed corn)....... 
Hop stalks or points, fried............... 
— stalks or points, with Viennese sauce 
Hors-d’ceuvre—cold...... each oe ee 
aA Oe ee eae eee 
PEGUSOL AUIS .6 5 cc ces veces sede decseese : 
— grated ....... cece ee ece cee ceeenees ° 
wm TIDDONS os os cee oe ietn te eeek aa waite sie ‘ 
Ice cream, 4 la Cialdini....... SANT See f 
— Andalusian—without cooking ....... 
— apricot........ ied SE ae ye ee 
— burnt almond....... Pee ease ee en 
— burnt almond with angelica......... 
— caramel........ aieln are 9.5 eUegacaeuss ee 


— cherries.... 
— chocolate.... 


eesceseeoseere2 26009880808 


— cinnamon..... seeccecccccccesces es 
— COCOA... css ececccocsece dine slseesas : 
— Columbia. .......sseeee pie a eceisisisisisisi 
— CUITANE.. ccc cece cenccnccereoesceccs 
— fresh fruits—without eggs or cooking. 
— PINGET. .. cece ercceccecceccceces eoee 
—— nectarines..... ss+e coscvcnceses eee 
— nougat ... seccseees cece ccccccccocs 


— nougat, Neapolitan.......+sseeeeees 
— peach, 4 la Herbster......e+eeese ce 
— peaches....... ea CES Resustna Gane'xe 
— pineapple.. ...-seeeseecerccscccrces 
— pistachio....sseseecoessseccceessers 


INDEX. 


695 


696 
766 
767 
167 
765 


172 
766 
765 
766 
802 
O76 
801 
442 
443 
443 
360 
443 
443 
360 
360 
443 
640 
828 
828 
300 
368 
360 
194 
194 
986 
986 
987 
988 
988 
986 
987 
986 
987 
986 
986 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 


Ice Cream, pistachio, made with almonds 
— pumpernickel rye bread............. 
worst PURDOTTION: ee is tae a ersa icon ees 
w= PICO heb BYAGINO Ws <n eta eh ee cae te 
—rice, with citron garnished with 

BIUMUOS A, Voda: netienree eee 
so= BUPA W DELTIOS. we cae cane cee teens 2 ome 
== triile’s. Wo te as cea ee 
om WanilldiNosel and 8).v.n nee 
— vanilla, light, milk and whipped 

ClOaHiv(INOs C2 eas aoa wate ee 
— vanilla, Roman, syrup and cream (No. 
G) ears coor teehee aa 
— vanilla, snow, Italian meringue and 
whipped cream (No. 5)........... 
— vanilla, with cream (No. 3).......... 


— vanilla, with milk and cream (No. 2). 
— vanilla, without cream or milk (No. 4). 
—AVAT PID COICO Meant rad cae eae ete eee 
— virgin, with orange-flower water..... 
— virgin, with orange flower and noyau. 
am WHITO CDI GO tate -cas eer tea 
— with almonds or nuts—fresh or dried. 
— with chestnuts, boiled............. : 
— with chestnuts, roasted............., 
— with eggs and black coffee.......... 
— with maraschino, prunelle, kirsch, tea 
Or dll Lowers ea eres ee 

— with pignons, Brazilian nuts, walnuts 
or hazel-nuatss ease .os gan, os cite 

— without cooking, chocolate.......... 
— without cooking, chocolate light..... 
— without cooking, coffee............. 
— without cooking, lemon..... . ..... 
— without cooking, orange-flower water. 
— without cooking, vanilla............ 
— without eggs, light with black coffee. 
Ices (plate) : 
— compositions frozen by machine (Figs. 
GLE GER G1 S) aie woes culg sete ae 

— how to cook the cream for........... 
— how to freeze by hand in a long 
covered freezer (Figs. 614, 615)... 

— how to freeze by hand in a wide un- 
covered freezer (Fig. 616)........ 

— machine witb long freezer (Fig. 617).. 
— manner of freezing, Neapolitan style 
(Hi ALS ye ne ete vtec mies oa nt 5 

—- mold and freeze small ices and large 
ones representing figures ........ 

— pack sorbetiéres or freezers in ice, to 
Cpr O80 ie ais aa escape npn sis s0 acein 

— preliminary remarks on............. 
— unmold small ices and figures, how to 
— water bottles, how to freeze (Fig. 620). 
— water socles, plain, colored (Fig. 621). 
— biscuits iced, dla d’Orléans (Figs. 624, 


ceoeoeree eee eee eee ee ee ee Ce eee, ‘a 


Gola ere eee cn antes cic ot atals 
— biscuits iced, cases, how to make 
tony (lip G26) < oo .cnet ohn oon 
— biscuits iced, Excelsior (Figs. 622, 
Oe setae Cees cand ne net epee sas 


1159 


PAGE. 
988: 
987 


1160 


{ees— 


ETE 


— biscuits iced, Diplomate....... Mate 
— biscuits iced, with vanilla and straw- 

berry, melon-shaped (Fig. 626)... 
— bomb, a la Constantine (Fig. 627) .... 


— bomb; 4 ja Trobriand: 2 0 eee. 
—— bomb; Hifth avenue. <2... so. eee Pees 
—- pomp, Pritanier, Trait... .. verse cen 
—-, bomb; “Romans. san asian see tee e's aiate 
— bomb streaked with black coffee..... 
— bomb streaked with white coffee..... 
— bomb, with liquors............ Ge aw 
=~ Wigti dilatle fo. ss dan S05 (ae a gicies' ® 
— Fiori di latte a la Bellini...... iar Siete 
— Fiori di latte a la Orlandini.......... 
— Fiori di latte, with burnt almonds and 
PISCROINOS sss 5a cnmss sr hele eae 
— Fiori di latte, with vanilla and other 
HAVOTINGH 7.54 wes oace aie we were . 
— Fiori di latte, with violets (Fig. 628) . 
— mousse a4 la Semiramis (Fig. 629)..... 
— mousse a la Siraudin............. ae 
— mousse, chocolate..........22. os abe 
— mousse, coffee............00. See ecee 
— mousse, fruit, with pineapple or other 
FTUTLS oe Le recs dea ate terres 
—— mousse, [talian......s0ce cacces ee . 
— mousse, Italian, the pistachio....... : 
— mousse, Italian, the strawberry...... 
— mousse, Italian, the vanilla.......... 
— mousse, with chestnuts..... ta Sane 
— mousse, with liquors.......... fauiatate 
— mousse, with macaroons....... SS aS 
— parfait, excellent, with coffee (Fig 
OST) cic ase set rus eee aa etane aca 
— parfait of nougat (Fig. 630).......... 
— parfait of nougat with almonds...... 
— parfait, with coffee...........ccesce 
—plombiére a@ la Montesquieu (Fig. 
GOz) ras so pews eons era eine eek eee 
— plombiére a la Richmond...... Sneha 
— plombiére a la Rochambeau.......... 
— plombiére d’Alengon.......... ones 


— plombiére, Havanese style.... 


— plombiére with cherries....... eeeede 


— plombiére with chestnuts.... 


e@eeveeeed 


— pudding, banana (Fig. 633).......e6. 


— pudding, biscuit... .5....sccces soeee 
— pudding, Cavour........... oe cccccee 
— pudding, Constance.......ccccccsecs 
— pudding, Diplomat.......... ceccccee 
— pudding, Duchess ........ o cecccccce 
— pudding, PICU yy. 0s: vu cewsetscscwrs 
— pudding, Imperial, rice........ Pees 
— pudding, Nesselrode, with candied 
Chestuuts. Cat ce wen ook win ocecese 
— pudding, plum (Fig. 634)... stica teh a acace 
— pudding, Romanoff........ Dent reed 
— pudding, Serano (Fig. 635)......... 
— pudding, Sicilian........ eccercccees 
— pudding, Waddington ............. 
— punch and sherbet............ aaretien 


EPICUREAN. 
Pace. 
Ices— 
982 — punch, Béatrice (Fig. 636)........... 
— punch, Bouquetiére (Figs. 637, 688, 
984 G39) fF Secrets J, aise goss ocr oles eee eee 
984. — punch, champagne (Fig. 640)........ 
984 — punch, coffee, granite with coffee.... 
985 — punch, cordial—iced................ 
985 -~- punch, Dolgorouski (Figs. 641, 642). 
985 — punch, Elizabeth (Fiz. 648) ......... 
985 — punch, favorite (Fig. 644)........... 
985 — punch, imperial (Fig. 645)........... 
985 — punch, milk—iced (Fig. 646)......... 
991 — punch, Montmorency (Fig. 647)...... 
991 — punch, Nenuphar—lilies as 648)... 
991 — punch, Pargny......0...2 en) see 
— punch; Romans.:..5t..2-,ersaeee ae 
992 — punch, Siberian—Lalla Rookh..... = 
— punch, sunflower (Fig. 649) ......... 
992 — punch, Stanley (Fig. 650)............ 
992 — punch, Tosca (Fig. 651)...... ... 
992 — punch, Tremiére (Fig. 652).......... 
992 — sherbet, American (Fig. 653)......... 
99% — sherbet, Andalusian (Figs. 654, 655, 
993 G56) 6 29 «5c eae alee ee 
— sherbet, Californian (Figs. 657, 658).. 
993 — sherbet, Mephisto (Fig. 659)......... 
993 — sherbet, paradise.........ses0s sane 
993 — sherbet, parfait amour (Fig. 660)..... 
993 — sherbet, Paquerette (Fig. 661)....... 
993 — sherbet, Rebecca (Fig. 662)......... 
994. — sherbet, Venetian (Fig. 663). ........ 
993 — sherbet, young America (Fig. 664).... 
993 — Sabayon a la Canetti.............060% 
— Sabayon a la Denari......... ...... : 
994 — soufflés, Alcazar—iced (Fig. 665)..... 
994 — souffiés, Favart......... vere acer sete 
994 — soufflés, Palmyra....... de see eee 
994 — spongade a la Médicis (Fig. 666) ene 
— spongade a la Parépa—cream....... 
995 — varied, Alaska, Florida (Figs. 667, 668) 
995 — varied, Alexandria (Fig. 669)... .... 
995 — varied, asparagus (Fig. 670).......... 
996 — varied, bananas in surprise (Fig. 671) 
996 — varied, Blidah (Fig. 672)............ 
996 — varied, caramel bouchées (Fig. 678). . 
996 — varied, cards (Fig. 681).............. 
997 — varied, cauliflower, with marchioness 
997 TICE. oe ssa 3 os eee abet eee 
997 — varied, Ceylon with coffee (Fig. 674).. 
997 — varied, Charlotte Corday (Fig. 675)... 
998 — varied, corn (Fig. 676).............. 
998 — varied, Countess Leda (Fig. 677)..... 
998 — varied, cream, Chateaubriand..... bs 
998 — varied, cream, hazel-nut ......... Ra 
— varied, cream, racahout...... .....-. 
998 — varied, cream, Venus..... Pa Pre tx ys 
999 — varied, dice (Figs. 678, 680)...... ... 
999 — varied, dominoes (Fig. 679)....... : 
999 — varied, eggs 4 la Tremontaine, red 
999 wine sauce (Fig. 682)............ 
1000 — varied, Esmeralda (Fig. 683).... .... 


— varied, Frascati. 


ee ee eereee 


Ices— 
— varied, fromage bites (Fig. 684)..... 
— varied, harlequin (Figs. 685, 686). . 
— varied, Jardiniére cutlets (Fig. 687).. 
— varied, La Grandina (Fig. 688)....... 
— varied, lemons in surprise (Fig. 689).. 
— varied, Leona (Fig. 690)............. 
— varied, macédoine croquettes......... 
— varied, macédoine of fruits.......... 
— varied, Madeleine (Fig. 692).......... 
een WATICH. MadyviliGn si. c5 05. kek ck a's 
— varied, marvelous (Fig. 698)......... 
— varied, Mignon (Fig. 694)........... 
— varied, Mokabelle...........cceeces 
— varied, Montélimar with hazel-nut 
cream (Fig. 695) 
— varied, muffs a la Déjazet, Venus 
eream (Pig; 696).....2.6...... oe: 
— varied, mushrooms (Fig. 697).... ... 
— varied, Neapolitan (Figs. 698, 699, 700) 
— varied, oranges, basket filled with 
PETE Rete ss 2's wey Sich es Sass ss 
— varied, oranges, Posilipo (Fig. 702).. 
— varied, Seville and macédoine baskets 
— varied, Parisian (Fig. 703)........... 
— varied, pears or apples in surprise 
(Fig. 704, 705) 
— varied, potatoes (Fig. 706)........... 
— varied, Ribambelle................2. 
— varied, rice a la Ristori.............. 


eeceeseeeeee- 8 eee 


eoeererneseeeeeee ef @ 


— varied, rice with maraschino... ..... 
— varied, salpicon, to make............ 
Ge VAFIOG, PICIIAN. S cipeecsdiectvecsescse 
— varied, St. Jacques cups (Fig. 691)... 
— varied, timbales, Algerian .... ..... 
— varied, timbales, Chateaubriand (Fig. 

ce Wat vsti e ss wh as aks 
— varied, tomatoes, stuffed (Fig. 708)... 
— varied, Toronchino Procope ......... 
— varied, Tortoni cups (Fig. 709)...... 
— varied, tutti-frutti biscuits (Fig. 710). 
— varied, tutti-frutti (Fig. 711)........ 
— varied, Valence cup, with peaches 

CRie -F1a) ress Sat eee ee eee 
— varied, vermeil globules a la Dam- 

seaux (Figs. 718, 714)..........-. 
—- varied, watermelon...........esceee 


— large pieces, Bacchus (Fig. 715)..... 
— large pieces, cantaloup in surprise.... 
— large pieces, cantaloup, molded (Fig. 

ADR ae eas «rie oa snes as nsec ee 


(Fig. 717)... ccccccevsccscvcccss 
— large pieces, fruit basket with doves 
PU TIS) 3 east cata s sine wee Kan 
— large pieces, hen with chicks; nest 
with eggs (Figs. 719, 720).......- 
— large pieces, pineapple in surprise 


— large pieces, pineapple, molded...... 
— large pieces, rabbit in surprise (Fig. 
722) 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 


1010 
1010 
1011 
1011 
1011 
1012 


ry 


Ices— 

— large pieces, swans with reeds and 

TUshos. (Wig 72S) Or seen gee es 
— large pieces, the helmet (Fig. 724).... 
— large pieces, the well (Fig. 725)...... 
— large pieces. turban with pineapple, 

strawberry or Sultana (Fig. 726).. 
— large pieces, turban with vanilla, 

SULA WDGITY = wea wach euros val umawe 
=—— water; freshfraites: i.) iced exe stare 
— water, fresh fruits, apricots......... 
— water, fresh fruits, barberries....... 
— water, fresh fruits, cherries.... .... 
— water, fresh fruits, currants......... 
— water, fresh fruits, nectarines........ 


— water, fresh fruits, peaches ......... 
— water, fresh fruits, pomegranates.... 
— water, grape: fruit. so. oitier osc ames 
— water, guanabana, medlar, melon, 

spear Ors plano: 72.2 su pea ee aaa 


— water, how to prepare and finish..... 
ome WHLOL JOMON nj. Jin aeons awk oes eee 
sein WV ACEP OP ATMO aes sok seh Gls Puig ela ee 
— water, orange, with gelatine......... 
—- water, pineapple.) fi ces eda oe oka 
— water, pineapple, infused in syrup... 
mn WALEE, TASPOEITYA vig ccs slvlen ed daee 
m= Water, SITAWDEITY Joc. cc ceccesecses 
Reed drinks: . 26ers vei. devas oe canee 
por CROCOLALE op wa lrtalsht se waa. viewig Cd sin eos 
me COMCO. DTADUY sek aes vv bu sie bs wees 
— coffee, in sherbet.........cccccceees 
oem COMCO) TOIXOUS .°, 57. Wr kao bale ope Pawar’ 
— gramolates or granite with orange.. 
— granite in water bottles with SUSAN 
cherries, pomegranates, etc....... 
— grape fruits a Ja Madison............ 
— orange punch, Russian style, unfrozen 
cold drinks (¥ig. 727) 
Icing, chocolate—cooked..............4. 
=—— COCOA—COOKGd, oi fsa ca scdeouevecwes 
— fruit juice—uncooked.............-. 
— royal, and flavored with zests... .... 
— with syrup, for cakes flavored with 
vanilla, orange, lemon or fruit 
juices. 
Indian pickle, with fine herbs.......... 
Jam (see marmalade)........ Sehr 
Jealousies (see cakes)........ ewaihe Meee’ 
SGLEGe Rp piedins. Cave veal owed oy ce was 
—aspic, to prepare, clarify and filter 
(Hige2 D071) .ccccccsccesesweces 
pot IRE IOALU Cis UO Wie Wiser oe Sted ence ek as 
— calf’s foot with Madeira wine........ 
— Californian pineapple..........e.0e0. 
— cherry with kirsch.........e.s+0 os. 
— chopped and sticky (Figs. 505, 506, 


e@eeneve eer e+ 


eeceoeeveeereeeeee eee eeeeeeees 


1162 THE 


Jelly, currant, with apples. ...... a mete cee 
— hatelets (Figs. 501 to 507).........6- 
— macédoine with champagne ......... 


— meat, with gelatine....... coceocccee 
— molds; 0 COab ss .6)es se si PAG Le ee 
— QOFANP OSs o aise se eevee ns receive hye a 
— orange, in cups...... seu. 6 sue eles m sie 
—— QUINCEN: «06 10s eo wig a gamle ses et sae 
= TASPDEITY.- e000 csntens <ssaceewee es 
am FORE, aie Ga weeien sine Saiiatarestecas aes 
=~ SRUSSIAN: «5:7 s'0 veel ots aS vinige eoap ene enters . 
== SELAW DEITY. sv fae oe ook ons erases wale 43 
— sweet, with gelatine or fish isinglass.. 
=~ Tanisian; ribbonedse:... ose eee ees ; 
— violet (Fig. 591) .......0.0. gets ene ese 
— wine and liquor... ....se0 vinte ererate ‘ 
— with fruits and kirsch ............. A 
Jerusalem artichokes 2 la Salamander... . 
Juice, clear grape........ eee eae Degli so 
— strawberry.........0. Udtoms eee ere 
~—-t0 filter fruits 0 sees owes cis eee ° 
Keep subjects or pieces of confectionery, 
TOS esis ota 2 ol eusle Sisiae onelatete © eecccece 
Kidneys, lamb, a la Lully....... edcion ee 
— lamb, brochettes Of......cscc:cceces 
— lamb, Flemish style....... Rial ole siete 
= JAM DFP IAZOC picts 53's un eis sistas 6 ala ects 
— lamb, on skewers........... cielieen ot 


— lamb, stewed with Madeira.......... 
— lamb, with mushrooms...... 


— mutton, a la Burtel......... arate he tes 
— mutton, a la Soubise......... eaceate 
— mutton, on skewers (Fig. 841)....... 
— mutton, on skewers, Bordelaise sauce. 
—— mutton, on skewers, deviled........., 
— mutton, sautéd with fleurons........ 
— veal, a |’Anderson......... caw whalers ole 
— veal. a la Roederer............ ee ebanis 
— veal, with marrow........ eeesiene ass 
— veal, with white wine........ gees coe 
Kingfish a la Bateliére (Fig. 298)........ 
soe 1B SOLO ars te ann secede ars parte 
— ala Bordelaise............ wie sere 
— fla Figaroveees seek ee ecccccccces 
— ala Montgolfier........ om enise eens 3 
— ala Princelay..... sala ciesesimipts atone sa 
— 8, la Sultana. «oc oss cs ce coeen peta s 
omm: DAKO. Js sss selec ees eae eves wetteels 


— boudins, Poniatowski.. ......ccccece 
— cutlets, mayonnaise mousseline...... 
— fillets 4 la Valencay (Fig. 508)....... 
— on the dish with gastrite............ 
Kitchen utensils (Figs. 115 to 197)...... 
Kohl-rabies, housekeeper’s style......... 
—- Stuffed: <\. atics seve a te ala seine moe 
Kulibiac, Russian............. Petes => 
— Smolenska,? suse ce easee c . 
Kwass 
Lady fingers (see cakes) (Fig. 609)....... 
Lafayette cake with rum............... : 
— fish, breaded, English style.......... 
Lamb 


EPICUREAN. 


PaGe. 
1052 
766 
919 
196 
181 
1051 
919 
1052 
919 
919 
919 
919 
196 
919 
920 
920 
920 
828 
1052 
1052 
916 


1031 
004 
504 
504 
504 
504 
504 
504 
537 
538 
538 
538 
538 
538 
517 
517 
517 
518 
443 
444 


Paae. 


Lamb, baron of, a la de Rivas............ 547 


— breasts, baked........... vielee se eh els a 
— breasts, chopped sauce... ... eTyEr 
— breasts, with turnips..........-..00. 547 
— breasts, with velouté tomato sauce— 
stuffed fi. wae eee scicang tee a” ads 
— carbonade a la Jardiniére...... PR 


— carbonade a la Rambuteau........... 048 


— crows, ravigote sauce....... 


e@eoeoeeoeoee 548 


— cutlets (see cutlets) ....... ere 
— épigrammes a la Toulouse........... 593 
— épigrammes, Ancient style..... coesca Uae 
— escalops a la Habirshaw....... + ov eran a 
— fries, cream horseradish sauce....... 553 
— fries, tomato sauce............ o nase 6 ol ee 
— hash with bananas........... o'a's antale See 
— haslets, marinated........... Pr 
— head, Genoese or vinaigrette sauce... 504 
— kidneys (see kidneys).........e0c. wo. «=©04 
— leg @ la Bercy. .......2 0. .eseee see 595 
— leg ala Britannia—boiled..... os  aigin an aan 


— leg a la Fearing—kernel............ 5955 


— leg a la Guyane—whole..... 
— leg, Blanquette of........... 
— leg, caper sauce—boiled..... 
— leg, green sauce—boiled..... 
— leg, King’s pilau............ 
— leg, slices, a la Dordogne.... 


ere 


oss eave eee 
Merry 
ee oa, Ve 
abe antares 596 
2a ate . 806 


— leg, slices, a la Prévillot (Fig. 348)... 556 
— leg, steak, plain, maitre-d’hotel (Figs. 


349, SO0)s ic sachets ems 
— leg, to roast in the oven..... 
— leg with carrots ............ 


oe geen 506 
os eee 
507 


eeeee =e? 


— leg with gravy, roasted—yearling.... 907 
— leg with purée of onions with cream.. 507 


— loin, German style—yearling 
— loin with sautéd tomatoes... 


— minion fillets 4 la Landgrave 
— minion fillets a Ja Lefort... 

— minion fillets as venison..... 
— minion fillets, cream sauce.. 
— minion fillets in surprise.... 
— minion fillets, Printaniére.... 


+ tw enter 507 
«eee 557 
Seana 557 
hee: waa 508 
‘coe ane 508 
wre 558 
MP es, 
«<< seme 508 
010.56 fe ee 
re 


— minion fillets with shallot sauce and 
marrow—roasted and larded..... 599 
— minion fillets with truffles—sautéd... 559 


— neck with cabbage. ......-...-.e200. 559 
— noisettes of shoulder, Epicurean..... 559 
— quarter (fore) with stuffed tomatoes— 

on the spit... . 03s +s% +s epee 560 
— quarter (hind), mint or Colbert sauce. 560 
— rack, Castillane sauce—broiled....... 560 
— rack with artichokes—sautéd........ 560 


— rack with purée of split peas—larded 


and. roasted sini sc. tone ie ae nee 560 
— saddle (double) with the legs and 

potato croquettes...../...-essee0% 561 
— saddle (fore) with chestnuts ......... 561 
— saddle (hind) a la Brighton.......... 561 


— saddle (hind) a4 la Chanceliére...... . 561 





= 


eee eee yar 


4 


‘Lamb, saddle (hind) 4 Ja Florentine. 
— saddle (hind) a la Paganini 
— saddle (hind) a la Sanford........... 
— saddle (hind), American style........ 
— saddle (hind), French style and dress- 

BRR tC A yh. 8 oa. See cx 5 -0Kk 

- Saddle (hind), with mashed turnips— 
RR Nee rdes cick aN ios «es 

- saddle (hind) with gravy—roasted.... 
~ saddle (hind) with purée of beans— 
OR ee RR, caieline, 6s on sin niece's 6 


see eee eece 


— shoulder with purée of celery and 

dressing—stuffed............-... 
— stewed, Duglére—rack.............. 
Peermtewen ITiSiuStyle:. 2... .csce cece ce 
= stewed, Navarin.........cseccccecce 
— stewed, Parisian style............. < 
— stewed, Peruvian style.............. 
— stewed, with turnips..... Eyat eee 
— sweetbreads a la Financiére......... 
— sweetbreads a la Joinville........... 
— sweetbreads a la Sevigné............ 
G0 SUNS 4 
— tendrons or gristle with Robert sauce 

LEN ot ee eae o 
— tongues with olives..............00. 
— trotters, a la Bordelaise............. 
— trotters a la Bordelaise, Wenberg.... 
— trotters a la Chantilly.... .......... 
Pee roners @ 1a DiIdi6t ..0 5.x sais siajsce oss 0 
— trotters a la poulette..............6. 
— trotters with tarragon gravy—stuffed 

SPROUTITLOCL oe sate e4. 8g 5» Se. 8 wld Sivas © 


RRM COR ay Doin a dk veces sedsleeyesse.es 
BerEVERI OGET, 6c. ce cece etiencnsece 
Larding pork, to prepare............... 
— to cut fat pork for (Figs. 52 to 55).... 
rie le Marechales wv... ss oes cies e sa 
0 VC rca ee 
— Périgueux sauce—roasted........... 
EMR D IE TENG ihc wh alc + sa s.0,¥'ta es eleseses 6 
Lazagnettes, Philadelphia style......... 
Legs of chickensas ducklings............ 
Lemons, oranges, figs, blackberries..... : 
— to cut in various manners (Figs. 60, 


ren 
— with syrup...... er iiseeli oN new 3% + 
Lentils with bacon ...........-seeeeeeee 
Lettuces, chopped with crofitons......... 
— stuffed and fried.........---seeesee- 


INDEX. 1163 
PAGE. of PAGE 
561 Lettuces with half glaze—stuffed........ 829 
561 — with thickened gravy—braised..... is 2829 
561 Elmeéss preserved roe oC abake, takes 1054 
562 Lobsters and spiny lobsters (Figs. 272, 
Deo ile sha Be ate Manat ania. ae tee: 408 
562 e— fd Re DOUNGLOY.12..6.h tare hy als elena 409 
— a la Bordelaise—small .............. 408 
562 — a la Boulognaise..... vinuae waaceiate Auta WeOUL 
562 81s) BIHBnnise neo) awe eee eae 409 
a 18 Te Camille. diac se ees ae ee oe cule Ve AOD 
563 — a la Carlu—small............ Pre. wate tt 
563 moa A LAO NBO OS thes, oe nes a teal 409: 
563 =+, [at DOLHODICOgas nes Mean cad wee ie 411 
563 = 1a Dp lene! our alr ox aaia eeies cea 409. 
563 — ala Fresne....... bn. pale stealeete ne oygeai0 
——if: la Gambetta c,... Jd: ce ac unve mea ds 410 
564 +8 1a: HErveyss daca ceeuids somtetine 410: 
tla, LAAWTENCOs, ta <a ene Suceate tote 410: 
564 =, a len ary Awd. 0}! se ental mteteertes 410: 
564 — a la Monte Carlo—small tails........ 410: 
565 =— Aa Newb eres. 13.45) Cec aa 411 
564 =—'& lasPaul: Bert.cics. eo. wana eee 411° 
565 —= Bila RAVISOL. tw woe g serene tee 768: 
065 Ble, ROUPEMONEES seine aetes aateete ee 412 
565 — ala Stanley—tails..........,.... an ele 
565 — American: style. At 2.ck ia ween eae 408 
566 == GNA Of 3.) isis. ok ae eee TAT 
566 — cutlets a la Shelly or with cream 
566 SAUCC sia cia chs ttn tas cte ia toe creche oes 688 
— deviled—roasted... ..... ci sescesescese 409 
566 — dome, garnished with small cases ... 751 
566 wre 10 B DOPUGE, ><. geen weamtamnte se mmee 768. 
566 — Printaniére mayonnaise............. 361 
566 —— Provencal style.ccs . 1s os soils @awane 411 
567 — roasted.on the Spite-s.u.ss. 20s or 00 sisiemie 411 
567 — tails in their shelis (Fig. 509)........ 769 
567 — tails—stuffed and deviled........... 412 
am WIGHT COAIIN Siig tvuengh kno aie sae 8 Senne 413. 
567 —- with mayonnaise... .< 0. «0. eas gusk'se 769 
567 Macaroni 4 la Brignoli ................. 866 
445 pon DAKCUs tee ot 92s ne a noe eae eee 866. 
196 — Neapolitan style. ........secese sive 866. 
=—— Parisian style 5. 50s cass seule eens 866. 
197 — timbale Milanese of, or noodles (Fig. 
196 STL As ce cuin tee oe alate eres eee 871 
197 — with cream and truffles............. 866 
197 — with, game purée, 2... 000s ¢ccsinw visies 867 
197 — (Mezzani Grandi) a la Cavallotti...... 867 
646 -— spaghetti (see spaghetti)..........++. 867 
646 Maearonicelli 4 la Lucini............... 867 
647 Macaronade.......---.++sseeeeees ae Sie 920: 
647 Macaroons (see cakes) ........0eeeeer eee 964 
866 Macédoine 4 la Montigny............++- 829 
768 == RR UISSLATR carota Mite > also niecaielinoe abe: hismione 361 
361 Mackerel, frestic: ¢ sc v5, ses say's carom ancms 445 
— fillets, Bonnefoy.-.......cnscccvesses 446. 
198 — in oil..... a Ree PERT EE oe ore 361 
1066 — in papers, Méphisto.......+...++000- 446 
1066 —— Maire d ROLL: «..8 oh baa ae ey ame ence 446 
828 — with white piquante sauce .......... 446 
829 — salt and smoked, cream horseradish 
829 oh SAUCE... 0ccc0 covscccusecvesesce 446. 


1164 THIE EPICUREAN. 





Pace. -& PAGE. 
Mackerel, smoked cst cease ee ee oe 361 Mousseline, young rabbit. seteeeeeeeess, B85 
— Spanish, ala Périgord.............. 446 Mousses (see ices)..... ..... tee eeenns 992 
— Spanish, a la Viennet (Fig. 294)..... 447 Mullets with d’Antin sauce ............ 448 
— Spanish, with crawfish—fillets....... 447 Munich with peaches ................00- 890 
— Spanish, with gooseberries—stuffed.. 447 Muskmelon and cantaloupe..... ....... — 861 
— Spanish, with green peas............ 447 Mushrooms a la Dumas—oronges........ 830 
Wiadeleines and Genoese Madeleines..... 953 — a la Raynal-—mousserons (Fig. 549).. 830 
— Commerty:: cA ax oss «cies eee naeen 953 — a la Rivera—morils. ........%. via eee 830 
WW Lt UN yy aca sa nara ae ese eee te 953 — crusts, and with truffles--mousserons 8380 
Malaga raisins—stuffed and glazed...... 1035 —sautéd in thickened butter—mous- 
Marinade, cooked 2.35 svc oases 3 er 199 SOTONS ;.'. i.e a cals see ae 831 
— | TAWiG cs eniela eas Bales Aer 199 — served under a glass cover, and with 
Market'list.c.2.. 3 eee eee 21 cream (Fig. 550).). 2... 32... 831 
Marshal Ney... 20.2%) cuce< mess coe raes 921 — stuffed in cases with Madeira— mous- 
Marmalade or Jam, apple.......... ... 1052 peYrOnsy . sacs i dds alee eee 831 
— apple, SOUT.C.<. Aan ciews nomeee seats 955 — stuffed and glazed with chaudfroid 
— apricot or peath...... 0.0.0.0 esse cns 1053 (Fig. 496)... 4 4 s00 cee 762 
a Pale ke a ed Sole ee ele eee ee 10538 — to turn, channel and flute........... 199 
—— melon and OFange..: «2s Gaeta sae 10538 Mussels (Fig: 274)... .02. 0455. ceeut nee 413 
— raspberry and strawberry............ 1057 — 4 la mariniére...........0.0.: ; eee 413 
— white currant (large), Bar-le-duc jelly 1053 — & la poulette. ..0.. 5.255 > ule 413 
Marrow squash a la Parmesan.......... 841 — & la Villeroi. os... ci. ce eee 414 
Mars cakes (see cakes)....... Se Ui ieg aaeel aa 954 — stuffed a la Toulousaine............ . 414 
Maskinonge 4 la Providence............ 449 — to prepare... .....<si05 05.54 pee 413 
Matelote a4 la Mariniére, St. Mandé...... 447 _— with fine herbs—baked ............. 414 
—'é.la Talabasse, .i ie oss mon ee oe ee 448 — with shallot... 2.20.5 ee 414 
Of, CANOUIGTH ct .2e sain etek ee alee 448 Mutton, American cuts (Fig. 384)........ 5381 
—~ of carp, miroir.......... eee ate res 448 — breast, plain. ........<0.85 5 cee 531 
== OF COSHETHGN =<, os seuste bees sieemcete S 448 — breast, tomato, Andalusian sauce— ; 
Materials for making easy sugar pieces... 1033 stuffed... <5 <i) 25 ss suis ieee en xt 
Mazarine with pineapple and kirsch..... 890 — breast, tendon and shoulder, Navarin 5381 
‘Meringue, ltalian i) oC. ua oes 204 — breast, with turnips—haricot of...... 5382 ‘ 
— how to dress (Fig. 62)..............6. 199 — carbonade a la Juvigny (Fig. 335) .. 582 
Mincemeat: o.oo ee oe eae nat 199 — chops and cutlets—plain (Fig. 336)... 582 
Mirlitons of pears 4 la Bienvenue....... 890 — chops, Soyer (Fig. 387)............0+ 532 
—ROUCM: oocsssee dase ete eoe a ives’ 954 — chops, tavern style (Fig. 338)........ 533 
Mocha cake: oss. ooo eee nee ees skye 5s) — cutlets (see cutlets)..............04. 533 
“= SUBAP. 2. ia czk soa weues eeeae eee ees 939 — double, baron or saddle—roasted (Fig. 
Mongrel goose or duck—roasted......... 609 B40). 20.2 a5 SOW cane oe 535 
Mortadella (Fig. 218).........ccececess 365 — ears 4 la Westphalian............... 536 
Mosaic, with: crean..%2 25.7.5. so eee 921 — épigrammes a la Jardiniére.......... 536 
Moscovite of strawberries............... 921 — fillets a l’Alexandre................ 536 % 
Mossoranem. 2.5 . (Si fastens 921 — fillets, grenadins, poivrade sauce.... 536 " 
Mousse a la Belmont, Costa, Virginienne.. 383 — fillets, noisettes Provengal style...... 537 ob 
Mousseline, Cardinal (Fig. 223).......... 383 — fillets, noisettes, glazed ............ 536 i. 
— chicken forcemeat for.......... ..«. 191 — fillets, noisettes with cooked fine herbs 5387 
— foies-gras dla Dana.. .........e000e 769 — fillets, paupiettes a la Delussan...... 537 
— game forcemeat for..........eeeee0e 192 — fillets, slices, maitre-d’hotel......... 5387 
—— ham oe ee et ae ee 383 — fillets, whole, with Greek ravioles— 
— Isabella (Pig 224) 5. os.ccs cc eeceeee ce 384 lardeéd:. ci. ..0 sae sha) ae 5387 
— kingfish 4 la Briére..........0..000: 770 — kidneys (see kidneys)................ 537 
— lobster (Fig.510) cee. poe cue eee tee 770 — leg, ala Bordelaise.............0008- 538 
— maréchale (Fig. 225) .........cesee0s 384 — leg, a la Bourdaloue................ 539 
— pheasant, princesse (Fig. 511)... .... uel — leg, a la Bourgeoise............0..+- 539 
— pullet (Bigs O12)- ou. o) ea ee eae ce 771 — leg, a la Chipolata...........s00c008 539 
— Richmond (Hig. 226)45) onan este eae 384 — leg, a la Garrison... 7.0.5. «<2 eee 768 
— Robertson—ham (Fig. 227).......... 384 — leg, & la Reglain: ..: 27.53... seme - 639 
— salmon forcemeat for........ ..eee.- 192 — leg, & la Roederer.......5....0:.-0% 540 
— Walesky (Pig. 228). 2.0... css inte. OO — leg, boiled, Grainville. ...... 2.7 ..0ee 540 
— white game a la Médicis (Fig. 229)... 384 — leg, boiled, with caper sauce........ 540 
— woodcock (Fig.:280)..0. vines cnedeeans 385 — leg, boiled with mashed turnips..... 540 


— woodcock (Fig. 518)................. 771 a. —leg, kernel, dla Milanaise....; neem 540 


Mutton, leg, kernels, POUPADOTSS cs ss des’. « 
— leg, minced, ala Lyonnese.......... 
etre eM CHONG. yoy. v ces. cos c cece . 


SALE CE GT rr 
— loin, roasted on the spit or in the oven 
— loin, with purée of carrots. ......... 
— neck, jugged and marinated, thick- 
SUCMeWIENDIO00. ahs os aces be oss 
— paunch, Scotch Haggis.............. 
ON Ge ETS a 
— pilaff, French style (Fig. 342)........ 
— quarter, with gastronome potatoes.. 
— rack with small roots (Fig. 348)...... 
— saddle, Duchess style............... 
— saddle, German style.......... ..... 
— saddle, Piedmontese style 
— saddle, Printaniére 
— saddle, roasted on the spit (Fig. 344).. 
— saddle, with glazed roots—braised... 
— saddle or baron with mashed potatoes 
—in the oven (Fig. 345).......... 
— shoulder, marinated with cream sauce 
— shoulder with potatoes............. 5 
— shoulder, with rice.............e.00. 
— shoulder, with turnips.............. 
Beetais With O1LVEB sts... es ee tcc e seer 
— tenderloin, a la Henry Clay.......... 
— tendons, with mushrooms........... 
— tongues, écarlate, with spinach...... 
— tongues, Neapolitan style............ 
— trotters a la poulette. 
— trotters a la vinaigrette.............. 
Noisettes (see beef)............00: ceeees 
Noodles a la Lauer 


eee ee ees ee ee ese eee 


~@eeeetesveeeeee @ 


oeceeoeoereveeceee eves e vee 


BPO PEG 11 DUGLOT Sache sce st cc ceses 
— timbale of, a la Pearsall............- 
— with fried bread-crumbs............. 
Oueat, bDrOWD....2....., sconces ames. 
— brown, for center pieces...........+- 
— of apricots (see eaken}s 
— Parisian. 
— pistachio... .....cceccceccccccsevess 
ereEsEt MIC DATOS, os cvccsavelssoniccecece 


— White, SOft........ccceccsccsecesens 
Okra or gumbo, garnished with barley 
béchamel croustades.........- de 

Olives, crescent or Lucques, Spanish, 
Queen, black, verdales (Fig. 208). 


— stuffed with anchovy butter.......- : 
— stuffed with anchovies .........sse0e 
— to stone (Fig. 63)......... Neier a 5 aies 
Omelet a Ja Andrews .........+++- iets 
— Argentine (Fig. 565).......+.-+- Soce 
0 eee ee ere 
— beef palate or lamb’s trotters......++ 
— Bertini ......cccececccece picvaswoes ° 


— Bonvalet ooo eres eee eee eoessvereeeeeeo® 


INDEX. 


544 
544 
545 
545 
545 
545 
"72 
545 
546 
546 
546 
546 
493 
868 
868 
868 
871 
868 
1088 
1038 
954 
1034 
1034 
1049 
1084 
1049 
1049 


832 


361 
361 
361 
200 
855 
852 
852 
853 
853 
853 


i 


Omelet, cheese, with crusts and fondue— 
Swiss or Parmesan...........6<, 
— chicken liver.............. PAC oy ee 


mon CLONES TIGIN TT sheesh a aictete cone ect ee 
=~ Desjarding aes, See ars hee ee 
— Duxelle or cooked fine herb.......... 
— fine herb—raw..........ccccecsccccs 


— green, with fine herbs, spinach or 

With sorrel crusts. 25. o.:0c%sslea ke 
— ham and green peas...............6. 
=— Havanese: 003 2 coral Seuss ee ee 
— herring—smoked..............00. Ke 
=~ TUnter’ si cs ds ee ee ole eee 
— kidney | 


oe eer ese eer eee ee se eevee eeenes 


— oyster 
<= DATSIOV sas.ss 5 as halos eye we We le ee 
=< physiolozicaley (ai. eens weeks ee 
= BAUSALOs bs. cp! oe co's 5 cee. eee al See 
— shrimp 
SPANISH oy al cos ie siste Biehs voc wee 
swontl SOPTC] 335s 5 bre. ha a b/s 5) he ones eee eee 


eeeoceeree eee ese eees ee eee eeeeeeeas 


oeoeer eee eter eeeer eee eee er reese 


— Célestine—sweet 
-— Célestine with whipped cream—sweet. 
— Frangipane—sweet............esse0. 
==, PUIMI-—SW eet. «ssa ewes oa sie oe sme bas 
— soufflé, ancient style—sweet......... 
— soufflé, light—sweet................ 
— soufflé, 
— soufile, 
— soufflé, 
— soufilé, 
— soufflé, 
— stuffed 


with apples—sweet.......... 
with macaroons—sweet...... 
with preserves—sweet....... 
with vanilla—sweet......... 


eeoeerereserevr eee eeee ee eeeeees 


— with purée ‘of spinach—sweet 
— with russet apples—sweet........... 
Onions boiled, Hollandaise or Soubise 


eee eee 


— DPRISOGL4 Wakes a) pide edness t ww am eta 
— stuffed, white or Bermuda........... 
Orange or lemon peel, preserved......... 
— punch, Russian style,........sseeee. 
Fee BRIGGS 510-0. Ss oe ou seme ss ewes ¢ cvoeces 


Orangeade. .........200.eseeeeeee ahaa ts 
Ornaments for cold desserts ues e sve 
— AIZTEHEES. .. cere eeeecereceereoceeees 
ot HALGIOUSS okt ub aasd ess Suma eks Stake 


eo 60816 6 9 66 6 666 0.20 8B: 0 6 8) 80's & 


— voluptes 
Oxtails 4 la Castellane......... ee 


1165. 


PAGE. 





1166 THE EPICUREAN. 
PAGE. PaGE 
Oxtails & la Chipolata........5.0 «. .«. 414 Palmettes of fat livers, Delmontés...... 386 
— Alsatian style...... RO ews rents RPS Fin — of Guinea fowl and wild duck, Pala- 
— fried........ Pi ett neuter Sel eatore . 475 CiO x oes bc aces coe ce Me 386 
— Hocheépot.”.. 222. teecces ven acne Bere V9) — of ham @ l’Aquitane....:.7.. ss es. > B86 
== with veretables: 2 (nizwasieae ns setae 475 — of hare and young rabbit, Polish.... 386 
Oysters (Figs. 275, 276)... ........-06. . 414 — of pheasants a la Torrens............ 386 
— a la Bearnaise; tomatoed 2 cs... os... 415 — of pullet or capon, Clinton.... ..... 386 
— a la béchamel with truffles.......... 417 — of quails or partridges, African..,... 386 
— sa Bonucieiulthseer secs ee ern 415 — of snipe with truffles ala Osborn.,.... 3887 
<q lasHollandaise. (s.cne os ecto ae 417 — of turkey a la Béarnaise............. 3887 
— 4 la Pompadour—risolettes:......... 415 — Périer. ys cy eee Se aie ae Noe ein 385 
— 91s RUDINO.: «zi ve cee ose sees veers ED — Primatices. i... .. 502006 bee . 885 
— 4 la Viennaise.: 2s ses.r.<c S haseinee 417 — Varsovian. . ..s<Ssse0 cele ecto oan 386 
—'h 1f ViINOTOL cree vee cress Pere aS 415 Panada, cream Frangipane............. . 200 
<< baked,“a.f8. Cran<:: cusses tees eee 415 —of flour and milk, bread-crumb and 
— brochettes with truffles.............. 415 pate-d-chon ... 02. ss ss eee 200 
— broiled, maitre-d’hétel.............. 416 — wheat and rice flour..............-. 200 
— broiled, on skewerSs........ccccccces 416 Pancakes 4 la Déjazet........... oak ee 894 
—— crabs, .(s@e ‘CPabS). 3.20002 seereencas 402 — a la Rossini, meringued........ . .-. 894 
= crabs, pickledis 2%. 5s «tee ees Siete’. 362 == COLD ye viies o 9 & eee Ce ose. oe 825 
— fricasséed, or a la poulette.......... 417 — German: .. 2... 0s. sab bey 894 i 
— fried a ‘la, Horly (val wcacse wei weet 416 — peach marmalade, macédoine ....... 894 
— fried with butter of tard)... ee oe - 416 — sticks, Royeaux ....5..s0. 00) eee 895 
mon TL GSPIC oe awients a aw tla neice e coments 725 — with brown sugar—light .......... ~  8oa 
S01) CLUBS Saree ale ome manent wants Sites 416 — with orange-flower water—large..... 895 
— on half shell and Little Neck clams.. 362 — with preserves—light.............0. 895 
— ‘Philadelphia, style... ces sale cies 416 Paper ruffies‘and frills. :\. .. 03 seme 173 
as PIEK TOG. Ey ce Patan sous eee eee 362 Parfaits (see ices). 2. 5 vec 994 
— steamed and on toaSt...........0.+60 417 Parsley bouquet, in branches, fried or 
= stuffed ala mVlornay css. sss sa aeinn om 417 chopped 2.334032 2k 92 ee 200 
—— stufred-and fried. \: A. <.ses + case ce ees 417 Parsnip cakes fried in butter............ 832 
— TATIATO/ YON a Poor bun saa sina oer 362 Partridges a la Baudrimont.,........... 649 
=— to Poach en. os as esis ta cctauh = shee ees 417 — a la Chartreuse. ..... 7.5) ae eee . 649 
— with curry, Indian style............. 418 — ala Marlyocr. 237 ee so 0 okie asennad 650 
— ‘with: fine herbs:< once. oe ee ek ee 418 —a la Matignon, garnished with 
— with Parmesan, fried in oil.......... 418 ‘‘pains” a la Montglas......... . 650 
Oyster plant or salsify a la poulette..... 840 — ala Soyer... 25... .05 5. ove 650 
a LION sas, cee tek tras aire ae eee 840 — boned and sliced in Bellevue........ Pay 
— sautéd..... J ae eat A ipa eae Cee ae 840 — boned a la Clémentine (Fig. 487)..... 755 
“Pain” of apricotsiac... 6. see eee 922 — braised a la Moliére........... erate 650 
— of bananas, Havanese............... 922 — breasts or fillets & la Jules Verne (Fig. 
— of capon with tarragon—small....... V7I2 400). 0... tee: 647 
— of chestnuts a la Béotic (Fig. 592)... 922 — breasts or fillets 8 la Lucullus...... . 648 
— of chicken a lécarlate—small (Fig. — breasts or fillets a la Véron.......... 648 
O14) co eeco wees neon ene ae Al Sear ie": — breasts or fillets, Giraldi....... «or ent Ores 
— of chicken a la Freycinet—small.... ‘773 — broiled, Colbert sauce......... ooo cee 
— of chicken 4 la Villas............... 696 — broiled, English style..... A 
— of crawfish, Chartreuse (Fig. 424).... 696 —~ MINCOA Gs env somes’ pala ieteee ceceuse u uueae 
— of game a la Bartholdi (Fig. 515).... 7% — minced, with rice........ -eesesee ony) mara 
~— of game, Diana (Fig. 516)........... 775 — roast, lardedy. oo... sce es Peti 
— of liver with salpicon............... 776 —~ Salmis Of; 5. Jcas des ce cee eres a veins ate 
— of partridges a la Montgomery (Fig. — truffied and roasted.............. ere ; 
BIT) Sc Sae cond sia tests eg Cattaneo 716 — with cabbage 27.0.4 ....5< ieee eee 651 
— of pheasant with cream............. 696 — with gravy and water-cress—larded 
= Of PIKG: We. sf ataetde detains a ences ee 697 and roasted: ;.. 7... isss ssa ae eee 651 
— of strawberries with cream —small — with olivesic. 6.0.0 0. ess es 652 
(Fig. SO3)c0os ccs nen oie sleet ee 923 — with sauerkraut ...... 12. c.cc.seen 652 
— of young ‘Tsbbitsa. 2.4. seaeeee ene fees Paste (see Elementary Methods).......... 201 
— of young rabbit—a la Maintenon.... 697 — almond candied... 7. ../-s @toeeneeeee 1084 
Palms (see cakes)..............6 Po es 954 — almond, for fancy cakes. 5... ....s.s aun 
Palmettes (Fig: 231). 7 ae se eee 385 — almond, with cooked sugar...... Cok te Seen 


—— Junot... Jods ew lee wale ease se ean oneneS — almond, with egg-yolks..,,......... 201 


INDEX. 


PAGE. of. 
Paste, almond, with gum tragacanth..... 201 
— almond, with pistachios............. 201 
Seige alee hee dw ahia'g a 8hc6 6 0'e'e e's 1053 
UENO pA BR at a 1053 
RBS SE Sb es ce oko es 6 oe 201 
REN CRs ic, nec m von ek’ T awe vg ¥ 6.9 an od 202 
SN eo ee eee 1053 
— cooked, for fanciful borders......... 202 
— cream cake (Pate-d-chou)............ 202 
SOCEM HUGS seri gvclnank dsc. ass oe 202 
=—Finolish, for borders... ......... 203 
— filbert, with cooked sugar....... ... 201 
retried s ac gk sp tn oh ss Chas sss 203 
ES AA aa eae sy eis) Suasnae 0° pv ad's 6 a 203 
Pe POMMGGTON sg inde 6s evel sc cens sc ccses 203 
EE 2 SS er ea - 208 
NO WAUECTS. 2c. wc ce ce see tence 203 
eee ay sien be ns ca veisisi'es se 1034 
RRM CROC Corr daess 6s faeces sees ease ees 204 
— marchpane, with orange-flower water 204 
B MOMINOWO; PAIN . 6... 1. eee cee ce ee 204 
— meringue, Italian, with cooked sugar. 204 
BE py Kai ie oss sewer ees cede ees 204 
— noodle, for horders...........-.023. 204 
es Ae oly cols oe ie pans 0s e's ces tap se 204 
MR ME cs Pais. sonst se 25 3 0's so 8 tus 1058 
re cece Sec ry veer isvcess 204 
Ge Aide as eet ve wee 205 
— puff and half puff (Figs. 64, 65, 66)... 205 
ey a ley Goss nk oad ose be 6 oe 10538 
Sr Serra Bates 206 
—repére, for fastening.............+-. 204 
CIT Aisha fn wisies oo t's s knee ese ees 206 
8 ASR SR SSAA laure eer ana ace Paea 208 
NN inca ars nis, 5 0d aye eat Pea sine e,s 203 
Mees a oes eHub tase eens sss 206 
7) | Ca ae a ce eae 206 
Patties 3 |’ Andalouse—bouchées (Fig. 2382) 387 
== a& la Reine—bouchées .......0....--- 387 
BeECIRYI——DOUCIICES, «5 ses ove ss neces nee 388 
CfA —DOUCHECOS. «0s... 0502 sb oe Pee oor. 
— crawfish—bouchées ..........ee000- 387 
— game purée—bouchées..........- Pes Ont 
— lobster—bouchées .......eesseeeeees 387 
— mushroom, fresh—bouchées......... 387 
— mussel—bouchées .........eeseeeeee 388 
— oyster—bouchées. .......eeseeeeeee. 388 
— oyster crab—bouchées .......2.-+-+- 387 
— puff paste, Cracovian—small (Fig 233) 388 
— puff paste, of veal Godiveau with 
chives—small ..........--eee0e- 388 
-— puff paste, Mazarin—small ........-. 388 
— puff paste, salmon—small..........- 389 
— puff paste, St. Hubert—small... ... 388 
— scallop—bouchées.......+++ssereeees 388 
— shrimp—bouchées .......-+:+++++ ye) OOF 
— small puff (Figs. 67, 68, 69) ......++- 206 
— sweetbread, French style—bouchées. 388 
— Turbigo—bouchées .......+-+eeeeee> 388 
— Victoria—bouchées .......-+eeeeereees 388 
— with salpicon of foies-gras...-++.-++ 388 
388 >} 


— with salpicon, Montglas.......-++++> 


116? 
PAGE. 
Patties, with salpicon, Régence..... ... 888 
= With salpicon. Royalics eevee seek 388 
Patty a la Palmerston—large........... eine DOT. 
— a la Richelieu—large (Fig. 425)...... 698 
= GUO Sarna ead gente 698 
= Toedbirds.—largay 4.3.05 con. eek 698 
— sweetbreads a la McAllister—large... 699 
Peaches a la Louvoisienne.............. 923 
Pye, DEAT GIGU = k « vOuety mth are ie ny ret 1050 
r= CG DOES, mu Sererar ean ie bic 4 Ween aaa 895 
oe CONTE oc ime <i ae ae Caleta a TNS ee 896 
sre TOLD (UST ater he kaa Orne tae aid 896 
— preserved whole—large............ . 1054 
ro) LC DOUGIES Sah are ee sche aie 5 Ae 896 
ee MS LA VIOUG a oats hits uusnt, a Ones coo cae 896 
a SEOW CU c.st0,\e a caring ae ak eae eens 1057 
Peacock, roasted, adorned with its plum- 
Vid ener Cerys Beer TES 
Bears, -allivatorian sc. sein eawanncoranes 355 
a+. CANNOCL, 5 Mates acl sas or all tsiek ke oeerae 1050 
ee PPOPTIOT Os: . sales ek sabe ete cere 897 
— Lombarde, stuffed... ............... 897 
=~ PIUServedc, Vee itn Se ote ee Reon 1055 
Peas, green, a la fleurette................ 827 
— green, French style. . 1.60.0 enseccee 827 
— green, French style with sugar...... 827 
— green, housekeeper’s style.......... 827 
— green. Parisian style—small. ....... 828 
=~ STEEN, PUPCCuds «cide males ee aM were 828 
— vreen, with braised lettuce......... 828 
— green, with shredded lettuce......... 828 
Perch, Polish style (Fig. 295)............ 449 
2—‘stufied and “baked 2.5) acc <vs oe onare 449 
— Valois sauce—boiled..............-. 449 
— with parsley water, celery root and 
PRISHIPS e550 ays oy Hue nls 3 Se 449 
Peppers, green, or red.... .........000- 362 
mm STOO A REUIOU oe ans ais. 2 5 ar a ate «diam oie 832 
=<, BWEELy BAU LCO sx vccite v.55 ok ate ettie inane 882 
Pheasant:(Pig-401). : A c.25 see eae 652 
— adorned with their own plumage— 
TOSSUOC cra /an 5 a6, son ieaccae nor ae eee cats 653 
=~ 4.19 Montebelloy ss. vcwes sm Seow twas 653 
—— 4 la, Périg@ueHx. scone case aceneny we 654 
=— boned,.@ la Lorenzo... 2.5 se0eneas cack 757 
=— HONEG, CULUDiis Coan ces» sstedbeale pats 757 
— breasts or fillets with truffles...... img a 
— cutlets & Ja Repinald: 2.0. sys ssn 688 
— cutlets in chaudfroid (Figs. 481, 482). 749 
— escalops with olives.........sssesse- 692 
ee INCOR sins cdabirts os cos giae sane eae aas 649 
—salmis @ la Lorenzo... ....cceseuces 653 
— stuffed, a la Prince Orloff........... 778 
— truffled—roasted....... ieiem viet aay ete 654 
— with truffles—larded.........e..eee. 654 
Pickerel, tomato Andalouse sauce (Fig. 
DOB: oscnnn pb n Sweep ne nah gee oie aie 450 
Pie (see tarts)... 0.0.0... cece eee e eee eees 712 
— A la Bontoux—large........e+eeeeeee 699 
— apple, 0. is eses- Sd ial GAs dees ace See 923 
— apple, peach or rhubarb—hot....... 897 
— beef, & la Perez .....-sseeeececseces 712 


1168 


THE EPICUBREAN. 


Pie, chicken, 4 la Manhattan............. 
— chicken, ala Rigolo.......... sitareta 
— chicken, Australian style............ 
— chicken, to be cut up....... we veree 
— COCOANUE. 2. .ccececccsscveseccces ese 


coo er eeowr eer eer ee eee eesreeresv ee eee oe 


— duckling, a la Rouennaise........... 
— e6) (Fig. 426). in Since tee aeiee cage 
— fat liver, Alsatian—large (Fig. 427).. 
— foies-grasin cradle, to be cut in slices. 


— game, 
— goose, 
— goose 
— goose 


dressed 4 la Lesage........... 
a la Adolphe Hardy—fillets... 
liver (Hig 2018 joo sce cscs cena 
liver, CutUp, oc serene ree oer 


— hare, without a mold ............00% 
— lamb—loin ss. re aiden em estes 
— lamb minion fillets, a la Manning.... 


— lemon 


custard, Venetian style ....... 


— lobster, a la Herault............... ; 


<= TALEO 


w, Frangipane—hot......... we 


= mMince-hob.! 1k s ane, cae ana een C 
— mutton, leg of, Canadian...... seetstetets 


— oyster, 


Smith style....... Sitclaie'e tates 


— pigeon, a la Britannia ............. : 
<— plover—large 3.3%, «55% 5 usles eee eleuiy . 
— pork livey, or terrine:)..cia<sess<ees 


— pork, 


loin of, English style.......... 


—=,DUMPKIN-, Poa. oatere e's ite che p ARR Maer 


— quail. 


— rabbit, 


With fine herbs: s7 2226 cs0c%en: 


eee e ere eee ere ore eos eeeeeseseeee 


— Strasburg liver (Fig. 519) ........... 
— veal, 4 la Dickenson................ 


— veala 





nd hame ow ceca eee 


woodcock—hot. ¢.%% f4..c4eke we eee 


Pig, division of a (Fig. 351)2,4.2.00 4.4 ; 


— feet a 


la St. Ménéhould........... aS 


— feet, broiled ooo. ee ee ee 


— head. 


— head with purée of split green peas. . 


— suckling, a la Piedmontese...-...... 
— suckling, boned..........c.ccccccces 
— suckling, roasted on the spit or 
stn fledss. va os acs Conn eee 

— suckling, salted and smoked, with 
sauerkrautsn S; cress = 

— tongues, Provengal style............ 
Pigeons a la Chartreuse................. 
— ala Lombardy—poéled.........0..6 
— & la Valenciennes,.:..........0sc0s 
— and squabs Ce naretes Ancient 
style. ny. Seo eh en ek eae = 

we DONOG 1. sc iss sings Fie eine mene ne 


PAGE. 
712 
712 
713 
778 
924 
924 
778 
699 
700 
752 
779 
779 
781 
782 
780 
780 
781 
781 
7138 
924 
713 
897 
898 
713 
713 
714 
700 
Te. 
714 
924 
783 
714 
924 
924 
783 
700 
783 
782 
714 
784 
784 
701 
571 
573 
573 
573 
573 
784 
576 
578 
758 


579 


Pigeons, garnished with Montglas cases— 
stuffed (Fig. 379)......... Per Oe 
— Huntress style—breasts............ ° 
— Monarch style—smothered ....... sree 
— pie a la Britannia........ Rice: 
—~ Potted 25.5 sy se ate eee eee ieee ewes 
— pourpeton........... occ ececccececce 
— Printaniére style ........cecrccseses 
—— stewods, «0; slveac estes eee . 
— with crawfish............ os 0 Case ele 
— with green peas...... syle ookare eee : 
_ — with olives—breasts (Fig. 380)...... 
Pike, with hazel-nut butter sauce........ 
Pike perch a la Durance................ 
— a la Financiére.. i... .0.. «se use see 
— a la Geraldin.......... «cass meee 
—a& la Royale... ........ «0s ses eae 
— Continental style—fillets........... ° 
— Russian style... 502.45. acs ae yy 
Pilau of beef 4 la Reglain............... 
— of chicken: )....:.+005 205 ane A 
— of mutton, French style............. 
— of Turkish style—soup............. 
Pineapple, canned..... « eh.weuis oece ra 
— Carolina... . <.. <¢ss<00e sep 
— preserved... ...ccsss estes 
— stewed... oo s.ss00sbwiee eyes 
— with rice and cream (Fig. 578)....... 
Plombiéres (see ices).............s0008: 
Plover (Fig; 802)5, 00>. 3 ee pend a eee 
— a la Dumanoir—bustard............. 
— ala Montauban................ cates 
— a la Stoughton........ » 9.0 sie a aie ° 
— ala Parny—breasts...........2.0000 
— a la Victor Hugo—breasts........... 
— broiled... ... 5. ..<'sws.s 610 eis pe een 
— golden, grass and bustard (observa- 
TIONS) |.) «.5:0'<Sip ere 5. pace te 
— TOAaStEd .; «..\< 00s «20 ws mee ates 
— roasted a la Martel—larded......... : 
— salmis a la Duclair—yellow leg..... eo 
Poach quenelles, small timbales and 
mousselines, t0, 45. i. ssc cee 
Poéler meats, to... ..).. 5.2.5 seen ‘ack 
Polenta... ..... « asssitceetanee arene ara anees 
Pompano a la Anthelme ....... Aris: Meee 
— a la Carondelet.......... ey SR 
— fla Duclair....siccncews oe eee ae kee 
— ala Macédoine........... <> avis ceeee 
— ala Mazarin..,........ <0 edge Viste 
—ala Potentini ........ oie hee 
~— @ la SOYA |. cnnsis cen eee eee “aces 
— & Ja’ ‘Toulonses:.43).sienauues eee ey 
— fried with tomato sauce—fillets..... 
Porgies & la Manhattan...............0. 
— paupiettes, Hindostan............... 
— with Chablis wine..............60.- 
Pork, American cuts and divicions (Fig. 
BO 1)s:5 5 5s-a's pao eae oc ee 
— bacon, smoked, with spinach, English 
Style. «ow sis)sdicaie os on eae 
— black blood pudding................ . 


PAGE. 


616 
617 
617 
714 
617 
654. 
617 
618 
618 
618 
618 


451 


450 
450: 
450: 
450 
451 
450 
495. 
597 
542: 
277 
1051 
898) 
1055 
1057 
898: 
995. 
639: 
656: 
655 
655: 
655: 
655. 
655: 


654 
655: 
655: 
656: 


207 
173: 
868 
451 
451 
451 


452 


452. 
452: 
452: 
452 
452. 
453. 
453 
453: 


571 


569 
569 





SP ee eee ee ee eee ee ee 





Pork, breast, with cabbage—salted 
— chine a la Parmentier 


Cee eenreose ea a 


— cutlets and chops, plain and Castillane 
al 6 eS CG APRS BE et ae 

— cutlets half glaze........... .cce5e 
— cutlets with apples ................. 
— cutlets with apple croquettes........ 
- — cutlets with cooked fine herbs....... 
— cutlets with gravy, Robert or gherkin 
Sauice—breaded ........ 2.00.00 

— cutlets with mashed potatoes—hashed. 
BmROCU SOG PIP) On ie Sess cease cece secs 
Besa (SOG NAMS) 0. 5.0... kee ee see ee 
ES ace ea 
— head with purée of split green peas.. 
— kernel a la Cavour and with noodles 
NOMI eel eee ike’s oso vee 3a 

— kernel of ham @ la Biarritz.......... 
memo aia Herlain,...........<....+0< 
— quarter Valenciennes................ 
—rack, crown-shaped, with small 
MN gel aiy reg rce'oa e's. 3 Siva ee es 
Peeerac, OF the Splits. je ce ese ese sense 
— rack, with stuffed peppers...... ROS 
— sausages, Chipolata................. 
— sausages, gastronome.,............. 
Bemeemieares 10 DELS... 6... ee ec eee 
— sausages with cream potatoes—baked. 
— sausages with tomato, Soubise sauce— 


— sausages with truffles............... 
— sausages with white wine—long..... 
— spare ribs, Parisian style............ 
— suckling pig (see suckling pig)....... 
— tenderloin a la minute—minced...... 
— tenderloin a la Printaniére .......... 
— tenderloin, blanquette .............. 
— tenderloin, escaloped with mushrooms 

IR Gls cn oan es edee ee 
— tenderloin, marinated............... 
— tenderloin, pimentade sauce......... 
— tenderloin, roasted, broiled maitre- 


— tenderloin, sautéd half glaze........ 
— tenderloin with purée of celery— 
Mil MOIR eta i tina's wee se v's e's es 

— tongues a la Provencal.............. 
— Zampino, Modena style, with string 
beans—stuffed (Fig. 352).......4+ 
Potatoes, Anna (Fig. 551).............6- 
NIN MOREE Lay viv ely bE elec ee ts heb sve eyo 0% 


SPIO alias occas als oie ane ace sevecce 
— boiled, English style............+06- 
— boiled in their skins or peeled....... 
— boiled, Persillade balls............-- 
— Bordelaise—new 
— broiled, with fried bread raspings.... 
me ISUSSY. 505 crs cevescccsee oveeecees 


INDEX. 


1169 

PAGE.. 

POtAbO caleas oes ows cewek 834 
<7 (REPAY WILD AMS. 4 ate eee 834 


Werte steele ste reN Mn oe Re 362: 
— chopped, with cream, and baked..... 834 
met CLOBEUY ONE epee s CELA es oe 834 
— croquettes, in surprise and Maisienne. 835: 
= Dauphine Py. See ee. Lee 835. 
UMC hene Noon wearers. ty ka ete 835: 
-—— fried and channeled............... 835- 
een TENHEGEN GS wie esr e coe Ae ane Pie ee 836: 
=~ PASLTONOM GL ts. ie ea Corea een, 836. 
pat Al Sula: oe sha ss eae ee oe 835. 
— Hollandaise, with melted butter or 

Hollandaise sauce............... 836. 

— housekeeper’s style... ........0..03. 836. 
— Julienne or straw....... escent 836: 
== one Dranch (Pig.-002). <2 ee os oe oa 836: 
rt lVONMACO geht, oye ae eRe Cees 836. 
seinaitre-d DGOtel: Pica. Peek hele eee 836. 
<= MATCHIONESR. Wouuse's fas shee ete 837 
see MATEAAL OU tac Cy See te 836. 
— mashed (Fig. 554))0 06s fs ds ceveddees 837 
— mashed—baked..................... 837 
— mashed, in snow (Fig. 558).......... 837 
—— mashed, in purée, ..i......scse0eete 837 
SE MOUOW ery et Qoel wat idee se. Pree ee 837 
aor FP APIMIOUNG,) Sy Suse. coche ea hs coe eek 835 
aoe SEONG PN GUL Te or oath is we RG Coe ae ay 837 

Sate TOVOnOA ls tera: hee we ves fe ey te ey eon 837 

Bee APRA IO) Seat rie ce ee ce ek ok 838: 

— Saratoga (Fig. 556)................. 838. 

em SAUGEO GE Foe NOE EO is tee one bob hen 838. 

— sautéd, with artichoke bottoms and 

REUNION hina a ake cee 838 

— shape of an omelet, in the........... 838: 

— shavings (Fig. 557)................. 838. 

BerOM NEC senna e eset Se hoc e ec ve wclgies 2 838 

-— surprise, in..... Dae Wiis wo tess 5 6 839 
URC TMLOGE RE CEP CRT enc cs ve tss's (ses 839 

— timbale a la Parmentier............. 839 

LOM NOSO hc cuGie'cns s'ore'cid'e's s vae.ee ees vs 839 

— with minced truffles................ 839 

Potatoes, sweet, boiled...... .......... 842 
ete PROG Ear artatar cre siclg'a tides © os u-c'eu's v's 843: 
Bee CRMC LGE ittare aralerslcs sieve ors a Seis es. 5 ee 0 842 
PERERRLCCM NEA Pagrial Puls) oa ds <a 6.0 oie evens 842 
Ree MONTEL ORI tetera ee Ri Weaty Sais ola eleo's'éle e's @ 842 
OVALE LOURUCT COPRIS poss a 'aeic'c s'e sa cv 0.0 842 

Potted tenderloin of beef a la Nelson..... 704 

Poulpetonniére of pigeons....... . 701 

OE) Pavone Core as ge ae ear 083. 
ees CITI sree chit dicaidtaral (ge ers é 09.3) bie 6-6 170 

Pound cake (see cakes)......... Se gist ee 

DOL ac eaieis wees Meira tes oven ye 898 

Poupeton, Ancient style, or wild pigeons 

GRIST AG iadie. sds Pures eine 0 oak ows 654 

PMMA Leen ho 7A. bk + ties tee sans ecm o 1067 

Prairie hen (Fig. 394)...... ........... 639 
— ala Tzarina—breasts (Fig. 398)...... 643 

Preserved fruits and fresh, coated with 

GATRIDOLA SoC TN Raw ces bens ea see 1055 
— coated with grained sugar........... 1055 


1170 

PAGE. 
Preserved grapes..05 vs esse exes cee eee 1055 
— quartered OrangesS.......esescerers . 1055 
—= SICONPASCS so 4 pce se wees wee heel eee 10538 
— lemon peel yi. soi Gee eee aeas eens 1054 
= [EMIGR: ay the oes eke ee siieutan 1054 
~~ /OFANGE POOL es sh, wes s Heeler 1054 
— peaches—large, whole.............. 1054 
woe POBISa ish. aic has ys ante ae Semen a cee 1055 
== QUiNnces -57. 5) SG. re een See 1055 

Press meats, galantines, breasts, sweet- 
breads, ete. (Figs.-70, 71)ss'.4%.00% 207 
Prunes, stewedi sc) ce eens 1057 
Ptarmigan (Wigrs05)ou sc. oe ee eae 639 
— prairie hen or goose—broiled........ 643 

Pudding (meat), beef tenderloin with 
OVStOES. s5<ca2'e w alee idle sealer eee 701 
— lamb a la Gladstone ............e0.- 702 
enn! SHYWSH Aes el pers eee ee S waie'wiers 702 
er WOOUCOCK: = mi sin oa saree ae Utiw ate eens 702 
—, Yorkshite.: Jove seve cee ee ee ene 354 
Pudding (sweet—cold), Boissy.......... 925 
<n Castellano tn. tas. ke Ging vi week eis meee 925 
SUH arrisONinn. scat coe aoe tes ua O20 
—~ lafayette 7s. 2nds ee eee e ee ee 925 
=— Ministerial: cu. s sc cane seh eee Peas ORO 
— Renaissance........... Pie inte saa otters 926 
man VLOG si. 0. atyte we ckepetiegee eres eee ee 926 
Pudding (sweet—hot) a la Benvenuto... 899 
vf 18 BEaGley scat awcea a aewe cast eee ee 899 
— a la de Freese........... ibn stele uate - 900 
— Cabinet, ala Royale........ te alas eats 899 
— Cabinet, with Sabayon............+. 900 
— Countess: 2804.5 So uaecte aca tee oer - 900 
= Franklyni7n. sos aha tt dee eerie 900 
~~ Dumboldt.. ep ce cesta oe ~- 901 
— Italians a ast eke coats eer 901 
— mellow, apricot sauce... ........... 899 


— peach, a la Cleveland (Figs. 579, 580). 901 


— plum, St. George, frothy vanilla 

sauce (Figs. 581, 582)... 6.20 902 
woe PTUMELCY sas ic wes Ss sed ee Dae ee 902 
—- rice, 4 la, Bagration a... siete eee 903 
—— Tee; fFuit) SAUCE. sj. ee eee 903 
— Saxony—souffléd.. .........cccccees 903 
ste Schiller.c ? ssa sas 4 alee aascmels ate eee 903 
perce SOOCCH 2255 Srl siete ew etait eee ash sie ed DUG 
— Spanish.......... BS cee ee ae sate ne eae 
a= ‘Tyroleany.'s .\s.s as. ass Lene ees ~ dea OOS 


— with almonds—light (Fig. 588)...... 904 


— with burnt almonds—souffléd........ 905 
— with hazel-nuts—souffléd ........ -«- 905 
Pullet a Ja Arco Valley......... wide e4'stie iLO 
— ala Dame Blanche .............0. a ee 
-— & la Demidofir.<. .7....50005 oe emir 154 EE 
—— & la Léondise.. 33 dun cere ne - 619 
— ala Lester Wallack........ da ha tet 620 
~~. i la Martiniére: 3. vases wold ce. coe 620 
—~ & la Mornay coy. 2. Guo kee ae ges. ead ome eee 
— & la. Nantine® Jc oe aes 620 
~~ a 1a Péripord.c7 as, ee eee ee 620 
— ala Printaniére—glazed ..... ...... 620 
~~ 8. la Soymours <a wis ealcidek aheeeee 621 


THE EPICUREAN. 


Pallet. ala Villars. <.......:.%s ee eee 
—— & la ZiNn@ara L054 ae Wee «be 3 be ae 
— ancient stylé . ci. 505). see ca oe 
— blanquette with mushrooms.. 

— breasts a la Montmorency (Fig. 888). . 
— breasts a la Montpensier (minion fillets) 


— breasts a la Varsovian.............. 
— breasts a la Visconti................ 
— breasts with macédoine (minion fillets) 
— English style............ ha intaoa aot eee 
— Egyptian style—broiled..... ...... 
— in surprise (Fig. 381).............08. 
— ivory with decorated quenelles....... 
— larded, with jelly (Fig. 520)......... 
— legs a la Bayonnaise....... id a eee oP 
— legs, deviled.............. - See 
— legs, with new carrots.......... ae tee 
— modern style.....05 0.2 ss eee 
— Parisian style—stuffed (Fig. 382).... 
— tartar sauce—broiled...........0.00- 
— truffled—roasted....... ...... aa eee 
— with croustades Financiére.... ... ve 
— with mussels. ..... Jvsss essa einen 
— with oysters........... .. ote wee alate 
— with ravioles........ Peer Pe 


— with water cress—roasted.......csees 
Pumpkin, fried in small sticks.......... 


Punch and sherbet (see ices)..........2. : 
— champagne........tseecsesmaes eae 
=< ClATCt. ove sins ds sere a rir, 
— Claudius... oiesii 0 ies tne nicl = eee 
PUN alee od a ate cae ieee eee «<a 
— wine, hots. s.clscswae ote heen ee 

Purées (see garnishings)..... ........ si 

Purslain a la Barbancon—green or golden 

Pyramid of crawfish (Fig. 521).......... 
— of crustaceans a la Rochelaise........ 
— of meringueg..... Were es = 

Quail (Fig. 391)................. oss whepenele 
— ala Capréa 2. 640 sen sete ee Sid Wane 
— a la macédoine—larded......... cae 
— a la mirepoix. . 0.5.04). 000. een = Kult 
— a la Talleyrand—breasts ............ 
— broiled... .iis. sles ws as 0 aera : 
— California, a la Monterey............ 
— cutlets, Girondins .........ccccceees 
— in papers.... .... ec: ocaeey venne 
— Piedmontese style........... oie 
a TOBSEOG i... 02h aww eae Ys 
— salmis of, 4 la Morisini.............. 
~— with bayleaf...,....,% ses sem elena 
— with mushrooms—stuffed (Fig. 402). 
— with risot,..<. i.e. divs see a2 ee 

Quenelles, chicken, 4la Drew...... : 


— chicken, a la Richelieu (Fig 120). 
— chicken, a la Bretonne (Fig. 430). . 


— chicken, with consommé........... : 
— decorated, molded and pocket, to pre- 

pare (Figs. 72 to 79)..... vend Pine 
— fish, Montglas (Fig. 481)............. 


— foies-gras, stuffed a la Financiére (Fig. 
ABQ) «0. vs cu ok os Uh a we 





PND bo: LTFt 
Pack. of Pace 
@uenelles for garnishings (see garnishings) 348 Rice for croustades and with cream....... 211 
—erouse,. Londonderry’. 2... 62.2 .22... 705 PG ATICMLGNE et aly Poe's SG > 596 
RUS I ae a er 246 ree MILTBOCH 2 he eC ENE Ce ae 926 
ETC ates os pede als os cass Coe ves c. 256 —UTiental Styles e. cee aa eee ee 869 
— partridge, a la Stuart (Fig. 483)...... 705 a= 00 DISRGH 2). ove punta iat eee ae 170 
— pheasant—fried................. .. 705 =~. WILD APDIOSs Sia, eee eC TR ae 905 
— salmon—stuffed (Fig. 484) .......... 705 mas: WAR ADFICOUN 2.5) steels ratte cates ante 927 
— spring turkey, a la Providence (Fig. — with cream and raspberries (Fig. 594) 927 
a2 | gS Ba =e ee rr 706 — with strawberries. ..........00¢c0000 927 
Seem WOOL DOTRLOCS eg sc ccs os unis cadeece 271 Risot 4 la Francatelli................0. 869 
— to mold with a spoon—plain, filled or — tela RIStOrl eee ee ee ae, 869 
rolled in flour (Figs. 80 to 84).... 209 — with Piedmontese truffles........... 869 
— woodcock, a la d’Artois (Fig. 486).... 706 Rissoles 4 la Demidoff.................. 390 
memimoes, preserved o.0.<. 60. c 2c. ee ee 1055 met DORE su se tare ca nee Soe ane 390 
Rabbits, young, a la Celtoise............ 659 -—— brain, Princeton (Fig, 284)........... 389 
eee PID i SS ea ks o's cw a8 659 pr CRICK OTS Nig wales coe tee anda tee 389 
— cutlets a la Prévillot................ 690 — chicken forcemeat...... 0. ...3000s0ee 390 
— fillets of, a la Bienvenu, garnished — crawfish a la Béatrice............... 390 
MU TOEECPONUBLLOS “5 5... o-Sie toss ss oes 660 n> fat livers a lade, see. 8: ce ee 390 
— fillets of, a la Lavoisier. ............. 661 =—— fish forcement 951% aot tees oer 390 
— fillets of, with artichoke purée....... 661 mew ATIVG... ttaseteiaves mately ae ¥ oem tO Re eee on 390 
— fillets of, with currant sauce........ 661 moe IRI Toe cs 5 sear aU Sai Meee 390 
— fillets of, with mushroom purée. ... 661 — mushroom and marrow ...........-. 390 
Pee MCLAUGG Ol. 2... oc op ee Se cee ce cas 661 — partridge a la Waddington.......... 391 
— gibelotte of, Parmentier............ 662 = TOU. LONGUS. a meakieeee ne dene ip ets 391 
Beersuniera Styles. 358s. 6.06... coe gar "O00 m= SWECUDI CANS. « mic dav de ct sieuray de aoe 391 
— juggec with blood...........00.40. 660 — to prepare (Figs. 89, 90)............. 211 
— pie with fine herbs.............. ... 714 mem VEAL PULA on. sacs wale Besse ee ORO os 390 
— roasted and larded (Fig. 408)......... 660 — with almond cream ...........000085 905 
PUVRIENCIA StVIG. 2 cic. ete c ce cece cee es 659 an: WIbL, DEEBOFVES) so sicclace's anes feat 905 
— wild, backs—broiled................ 662 Rissolettes. io. 5 <a etx cee e abies 391 
-Radishes, black and red (Fig. 209)....... 363 — “A718. Pompadours;.cere se fe oa he 391 
Rail a la Mareille, roasted and broiled... 662 me IH, ROMAN cer, Saree ote e wetie cakes 391 
Raise, pare and poach breasts of poultry = # 1a: POLLETING, sc baw d6 cc ouae vole ee RG 391 
eG RI LOS 0, oe a es vate wee es 209 — oysters 4 la Pompadour........... 1 415 
Raisins and currants, to clean—Smyrna Roebuck, épigrammes, marinade sauc 
MaIMNDRRR Gee oe ee ety fy Shes wg 210 with truffles ....... pene eee eeees 667 
MDDS, Socal e's Gee va Veale s 868 — fillets dla Lorenzo.................. 667 
Rarebits, Golden buck, Welsh rarebit a la — haunch or quarter, ila Bouchard.... 667 
Cutting or Yorkshire............ 389 — haunch or quarter, a la Lytton. ..... 667 
Ravioles (Figs. 85, 86, 87) ...........0.. 210 — leg of, Ala Francatelli (Fig, 405)..... 668 
RUPONPSCN FUT Vot grt vi kiko cs od see ae wen oe 869 MOS SIAL Gee eas co Aeneas 363 
NE eR ty ove sth oes ce 8 oes eo 537 ast WAG \EUACK OR, Uetrati dine tans aco cree sreceee 363 
—of beef, chicken and veal, different smn WIG 5 CEE WISE fe da Aca cbs cia urece' weenie 363 
POTCOMICHISCTORS 0.3 as ves vest ee 193 io: With) LOLOS-QPAS, isin c's «ia's'e es Oe Sica v oes B68 
Red snapper 4a la Chérot........ .....-- 453 Som WILT LODRERR penn Dulce. tere aei eee 363 
— a la Créquy........... Mad aeskweses 453 — with rillettes de Tour............... 363 
— ala Demidoff ......... ea tee wee vin’ rath — with salpicon ..........seseeeseeeee 363 
ME NILAIIO . ok vse neneee's s Od wa cnwe Paos Roo WWELET: MULT SSI [ha avis c, bis'e a x'p'e sud & V.c'0 eo 363 
oy OO ea ee Latte cet S04 &— with S010, TIOtS oe 5 eae howe One 363 
Reduce and strain sauces through a tam- Romaine (cos lettuce) ala Rudini—stuffed 840 
my, to (Fig. 88)....... we cae eal Sako Roots, to cut with a spoon or a vegetable 
Reedbirds, broiled ............ ceecee Pee TGS Giariter (Pigs. O1g-92).o. 4c ohne 211 
— croustade of........essseeee Soreees te FOGG Roux, blond and brown..... rete ee eeens 212 
— roasted (Fig. 404) ............ 4380 662 Rum, flavored with vanilla, spirit of straw- 
Rhubarb with cream (see pie)........... 924 berries, raspberries and apricots.. 212 
Ribs of Beef 4 la Bourgeoise.......... Reet 785 Rump of Beef (see beef)............---. cd 
Sw NUE (800 DEOL). 6.5.5 ince ck seesr ee sce 476 —ala mode... cossaeceseseosesseceees 133 
Ea OUOCNOG oot: oe sede es Mack eager 733 Sabayon for puddings...........++eeee0 900 
Rice a la Manhattan, lean............... 869 — of chicken or game........-seeeeees 286 
EST eon Be ee Ae ee 457 Salads (cooked) asparagus...........+... 803 
— croquettes, with salpicon..........- 865 — bagration. ......seseeers Preece 803 


1172 


Salads (cooked )— 

— beef, with tomatoes...... aie cists vie eee 
— capon, 4 la Mortimer.............2. : 
— chicken, American style............. 
— chicken, mayonnaise. ..........+... 
— chicken, with vegetables (Fig. 588) .. 

—— CIAD. \s. 5 .vassee wv piwlqe a mo a aie e5ls-y ween 
— crawfish, 3 la Maintenon (Fig. 539)... 
— crawfish, with jelly (Fig. 540)....... 
— dressings or SCaSONINGS.......- eee 
— dressings, Chili vinegar..........0.. 
— dressings, Tarragon vinegar......... 
— TB ie caer eer Ce eerie ram naa es 
ETOP Ses. cece te ens scone au srenrante eee. 
— herring, with potatoes .......0. e000. 
o~ Imperial ss. ..oss woes e vere b's obs wiehel ale 
—— Htalian.... ccu cs cnc eo mutivise sein ite e tee 
J APANESC. a's occ, eb i os ee bens Spe OURS . 
— lamb; a la Somer. ..22. 82>. ase ses 


mz SHTUIN Y): v.cidi vies nein eosecanin rere haath 
Salads (green) chicory...............5- 
— corn or lamb’s lettuce.........ceee0. 
== COS letticesd. sci ae anes eu aeons 
= dandelion es. 2.0. 5 oaebe et dam eee : 


— lettuce and anchovies..............- 
—-' lettuce, plait, O..2 enema eee ee 
— Monk's beard). 2.0. ase wwe oleate ° 
— Romaine (cos lettuce) ............00- 
— water-cress and apple, and nonpareil 
Salads (cooked vegetable), cardoon..... 


— cauliflower, mayonnaise............. 


— okra and sweet pepper....cecececess 
— potato and beetroot. ....ccccsecccees 
— potato and herring.......... @ eles are"s 
~— potato, hot... ss:easayescee AA we Ae 
— potato, in border with truffles..... 

— oyster: plant. 2 Jclewst. sce eee o iva eel 
— string bean...... Les eesecesce Gites ere 
— white heal. ico. ssbeceee ee aieeees 


— COlOLY 4. dink suns vee see e seen anne gadis 
— célety KnODiv cise cewia cate © cccccccs 
om CUCUMDER ns os, cae <a. ares cueesccore 
— cucumber and tomato....... es aee wel 
— cucumber, English............. eceee 
— egg-plant, Provencal.......... «eee ns 
— German, with crofitons 


PAGE. 


803 
803 
804 
804 
804 
805 
805 
805 
803 
803 
803 
806 
806 
806 
807 
807 
807 
807 


807 
808 
804 
808 
808 
808 
808 
809 
809 
808 
809 
812 
812 
813 
812 
812 
813 
812 
813 
813 
813 
809 
809 
809 
810 
810 
810 
810 
810 
810 
810 
811 
811 


811 
811 
811 
811 
811 
811 
811 


811 4 Satinated pulled sugar.. 


THE EPICUREAN. 


Salads (raw vegetable)— 
— onion, Bermuda: .. sy sseeuwcces wie 
m= TOMAO. ess ee owes se eeeeces cee 
— truffle, a la Gambetta.........cceee. 

Salmis, canvasback ducks....... viele wiley 
— Mallard ducks with Madeira..... ewe 
— partridges .........006. er 
— partridges.. . 1c, '. anes. see seccee 
— pheasants a la Lorenzo........ ceoses 
— plovers (yellow leg) a la Duclair..... 
— quails & la Balzac... cai. 4 sn seni ss 
— quails ala Morisini.. .....0secueeuen 
— teal ducks a la Hatton sch ane ane ° 
— woodcock a la Baumont............ . 


— woodcock a la Sandford... 
Salmon, 4 ]’Argentine........ 
— 4 la d’Artois—fillets ...... sont 


@oeoeeee 2 08 


eeeeoeeenvee 8 


— a la Avelane (Fig. 525)......ecceeee- 
— ala Courbet...2 oc ssean eee soem 
— ala Daumont... .......... scene 
— ala Destaing ........... od emcees aes 
— ala Duperré—darne............. aie 
— ala Farragut... 2..0sJ...006 seen : 
— 4 la moderne. ; ...4 S.6e8 500 see os 
— a la moderne—on socle (Fig. 526).... 
— a la Régence—on socle............ a 
— a la Seymour... .2.5.27.02 eee ° 
— ala Victoria...) v35-eeeee di eeetoetens ‘ 
— broiled slices, Béarnaise sauce....... 
— Darne, decorated (Fig. 522).......... 
— description (Fig. 297)............0. 
— French style (Fig. 298).............. 
— marinade sauce... ... 2. 0.2 see 
— quarter—Genevoise sauce (Fig. 299). 
— quenelles, stuffed (Fig. 484)........ : 
— Russian styles, i... ck oe eee ne 
— salted, a la Bedlow............... me 
— sliced and decorated (Fig. 523) . 
— sliced, with jelly (Fig. 524)......... ° 
— smoked, American style........ Pat 9 
— Venetian style. .... 2.0.5 Jee sere 
— with Montpellier or Cambridge butter 
— with Sauterne wine............ vanes 
Salpicon (see garnishings).... ‘once 
— chicken, baked.............. Bre So 
— how to prepare........ 1 See Re : 
Salsify or oyster plant a la poulette, sautéd 
or fried jv c206 seuss sae seopeewes 
Salt hams, to........5.....0s06 een 
Sandwiches (Figs. 210, 211, 212) 
— Barlow... 0.5... 50's es a> cee ee 
— chicken, chopped or in thin slices.... 
— different meats...........-ceeeee 2 
—— PAME . osc ss ale od evs =a ee ee 
— of French rolls, Amegee style and 
with anchovies ¥. .s...c5s0 «see 
Sardels. . 20: .%:.s:.cave ewe. Sete 7. 
Sardines 4 la Seville... <2... .....us sees 
— broiled, anchovies fried, and silver 
fish in ‘papers 2.).. <0 Ja ae ee 
— marinated............. i'w n'y dong 


@rc@eeeenee eee ere 


INDEX. 1173 
PAGE. ‘] Pace 
RUC sos svc csaccsce reece . 289 Sauces for cold entremets.............. 927 
— butters (see butters)........... ee De. U Po VESIBCRIGIE: ¢ ve cu une ath yt Sins es ore alae LC 
(CE ae Sern 823 — English cream, flavored with vanilla., 876 
— apple, Chantilly with horseradish 2 la Pro SObUME a Gloneices. anemckne EO fe 
SRI Mt we co SS vs vo 323 — frothy vanilla and rum............. 902 
— apple, English style................ 323 ar Sabayon s/s, ns eee ee Bee OOO 
— apple, gourmets with horseradish and Sauces (hot), African. ...........cccsnee 296 
REMAN iis 6/0 a ciy'e uns on eve ss 323 — Allemande, red wine and fruits...... 296 
BeOS WOUISD ones sew aedssacsss 0) 323 once AMINOVVCAT uate a oeee aerate 4 i eae e ar a 296 
Oy BG SUR 323 — anchovy, fat and lean..............- 296 
— chaudfroids, béchamel cream with — apple, hot with butter and gravy and 
tomato purée and fecula......... 323 ROMOMCOIA: Soiaw ede Mauer sears see 297 
— chaudfroids, blond.................. 324 wos ATS ODLING (ou nnie ae oes eee oe et ate ee oe 
— chaudfroids, brown and game........ 324 — Aurora, fat and lean................ 297 
— chaudfroids, green...............045 824 sewnes  SOENG V Ciel; ae, Si ee he ocd ee ee 297 
— chaudfroids, white,................. 324 =o, BRVETOIND UlasG oss 5 4, eG utioe es he iebre mais < 297 
— chicken and game.......... Bcies, che 324 — Béarnaise, hot mayonnaise and with 
0 6 Re eer 324 POMALCS EG cee. voles Sas Seances 297 
— Cumberland........ Wiehe Ray 5 aViets eo, 4 324 sa Derclioux esc carte« ie wrt vonr chaics pons 298 
— currant or gooseberry, with sugar.... 324 == DIDATAUE Ay kure aie ca aa si eee « craic ws eee 
— currant, with orange..............6. 825 — Bordelaise with marrow........... ates: 
— fine herbs and shallots with oil...... 325 - — Bourguignotte—lean...... aes ge ee eas, 
er eae cas Gare a nee es 6s 008 325 —— bread, American 7... ..05.+csc«ss cess aud 
Besreei, SPANISD. A co. e<s (oe an veces ess 325 — bread, English.......... elause wale ato ore 299 
— horseradish-:and cream with oil...... 320 ow DLCAGS FENG, care klca es ood on eee re 299 
PTR VORNRIGE 2 ok. aes stad se aieavce 325 — bread, German, fried...........e000- 299 
— mayonnaise a la Bayonnaise...... eee ORO — bread, Reglain............ me Seis eieta ce eae 
— mayonnaise Cardinal ............... 326 sre ASE BUOLNG is 72a ston tsar @i nese w Plea lalate as 299 
— mayonnaise Figaro.............006. 326 = brown Hinglsh gat fs, asteek.c ices 5 526 
S=MAVONNAISE, PTCEN.. ......0.ceseeces 326 smi PUNGENT a a6 sn o-5le oata'e nee eaatete ed sim arate b 299 
— mayonnaise mousseline.............-. 327 ee CODE atnrog cpus aie) nels Oo olal aes Sits Pecan 299 
— mayonnaise, Printaniére............. 326 — Cardinal—fat and lean.............. 299 
— mayonnaise, Provencal, with sweet —— CASTINANG oem pis oa alent esis wklemalexisiere’s 300 
Pe Peters fs. Ti canes tems oe oe 326 So CELERY Sc 5 Sivas each pide FWRN stares wk 300 
— mayonnaise ravigote..........seeeee 326 — champagne and other wines.......... 300 
— mayonnaise with arrowroot.......... 326 — Chateaubriand. .......c.ceccvcccerce 300 
— mayonnaise with fine herbs.......... 326 amet CLEOLTY sip oo) Sein rain maior winlere.a oie 'n ile ait vie 300 
— mayonnaise with jelly and jellied.... 326 meat CHOEVLL wake f tats wt esis ase aka ess 5-5 eis 300 
— mayonnaise with fruit jelly......... 326 mom HIVEY wie © cits. ais vie se vicia’s x cen e we epetale ns 301 
Cir viol vnaive ena s'se eds 0s 327 mon, CHOCOLRLG in 5.5 wrap ais Wiens M vin'e cele a ‘case Se 
eCOTON GOs. ci cca we ect c cece cs senccncs 327 = CHODDOU 4. s.0nbe vd wieled seep wane $-0,26ih 316 
— Parisian, for all foods.... ....... Re ta ors CIGPINOIUE gale nwa: eteclaw ees wae ears Se iN 
— peach or apple marmalade........... 327 == COLDOLE <5 ajnipts: «0 ais,aie ons sna ag ale 9 ie 301 
— persillade .,........-65 «s+ Sue oaes 4% B27 — Colbert, English and tarragon....... 301 
— pOivrade .... ...ceeseescees Reed int Oe ROE yy Lt SR ap i pe RVR he oe 301 
SOMME MAIS occu siecisic ven evccce Gisdecce chapel — crawfish..... she Sea ora on ac Bile es 9 301 
SERIA Maa iGia nis 5 age wlee sia + av oe reid aime i ek — CT@EAM .... 000s : ule ie wale Saas 301 
—- ravigote or green butter....... Seduce, ae — cream, English, avons with vanilla 876 
— ravigote, with oil...........06. Rea kalt abet — currant, White .....ccccscecsscssons 302 
— rémoulade .......60.0e seeeee Fergal, Oo — currant, with wines....... haat « whe 302 
— rémoulade, Indian style. Siete: SA 328 — curry, Indian. .....cesceeseccsceeeee 302 
— rémoulade, vert-pré......-eeeeevrees 328 — curry, with apples.........eeeeseeeee 302 
— rémoulade, with anchovies.... ....: 328 aon LIRMISIL CT vag ae age vnc bine s Codes kaa oes sie 
— rémoulade, with fine herbs....... .«. 828 — D’Antin Se See OIE A ie oe 
see Rosseberry. 1 oa nt a Sr Se ie 828 SAVIO reels cate ie are ew eLmecsbe en eae a 
— Rougemont......-...+0+: ee ot OR aw’ DIRT Sc ee ctw eran Seeker eee ben Cia 8 ; 
SO sao ane ae 328 — D’Orleans.......2ccsesesscess ea ehes 311 
— Tartar, English style.........+.+0+ 829 — duxelle, with cooked fine heros and 
t 399 tPUMNOB. a We cule meee s saunas ne tus 303 
— tomato catSUP......-eeereeereecenrs ROR TEU RE de os 303 
— vinegar, with fine herbs.........+-+- 329 — egg, Eng Desa So Ste Bice 2 303 
— vinegar, with shallotsand mustard... 329 — OBE; Polish.. +. +s+eesrreser reser. se 3 03 
829 of a LONNG) iis dv ss ose ee chee cessed sere® oO 


1174 THIEF EPICUREAN. 


Pace. fe Pace. 

Sauces (hot)— Sauces (hot)— ; 
— Financiére with game and chicken— — oyster. ...... cla 000 4 5.0.0 ha stee bla ven 
fat. or leans '0. a. < 2ses wo eee Soler - 803 — Palermitaine...... das one cenenaa eam 31t 

mov HINNOISO ov da cess ae On es er ee 304 ~— Parisian... <..2.00s auenjec cece e aes sae 
— Flavignan ........ccsccsceeccces ee bp he — parsley pluche...... cela 06's sot eee 300: 
wom HIGULELLOS: 2. see y oaths s misie re eee Shia bets: — Périgord.......... PP iy Ce 312. 
=. French <%.. viv. «=e a Rk one a rete attra siete 304 — Périgueux.. an. succes are <x tesa 812 
~— GASCOBNE:.. Vil. sien dslcusicuee ee eaeges 304 — Pickle. wis: wc sece ayes Be een oa 
— Gascogne with tomatoes............. 304 ——- Pigdmontese... 0. oss: sais siento ersten cee ee 
—— (JENEVOISO: 72%... views bs eel See Caw nkats 304 — Pignola, Italian style.......... ov a ae ear 
wm GONOESE i 55's aca watis ow a Oewiletad tal aieke 304 —— .Pimentadeé.\./: 2. < ts. e's ale eae . 812 
— POOSEDEITY'...15 «bess e 6 aw nate male ns 805 — Poivrade, fat, lean, brown or white.. 313. 
— POUTINOE .. cn cescvecscene ctieus'e 305 — Poivrade for sauces............. «oh 
me PTOI. 5 se shoe's 05 oe em mele ery sore 805 —=> Polishion. 22s ewan ess @oie iene 2.9 oe 
— green Hollandaise... ... 0.0. ecnsue ses 305 — Pompadour 2% '.'\..i. 2s sie c's daenlelees wee eee 
<— GTINIOG sila cic clon ais wee eee eee 305 . — Portuguese... o2.0s sus sas Sse ss) Oke 
i hed oe ere ee BAD ars MAES eee 305 — poulette .) 0.05 cc. = « a eee vese 313. 
om, FLATICQULP 3 yin ke a's ec ea mies oie cal mee alate 305 —— Princess. ...\:'.'....s «as ae pelmegiieenae PPR ik, 
== Hollandaise: 2). vais ccs caice 6 ee caress 805 -— Printaniére .. 5... 2. eves eee Pt, oi 
— Hollandaise, modern.........eeseees 310 — Provencal, fat or lean......... o ts ele ee 
— Hollandaise mousseline........ccee. 305 a= (QUCON. ssa. ose ele nce « Salacgete 314. 
— horseradish, béchamel ..........2.. 806 — Ravigote, aromatic ... 2. 2. ccuneen « 814 
— horseradish, with bread-crumbs...... 306 — Ravigote, green Printaniére......... 314. 
— horseradish, with cream.......... 2 seq UO — Ravigote, white with oil............ 314. 
mJ HUN GATE G css cots ore «0 ee bie cae sies Ute 306 — Régence. . . . 2. «cdainye + nee oe oe 314. 
— Hunter’s—Chasseur........se.002-2. 9306 — Robert......... aia ye b ano bee eee sean): eee 
seer FAALUIET OSS! ou aieta’s es 9 sores Ssh slate nate «3 ae atO — Roman’ .\. 2:5. +e 000 melden in meee 815. 
wor TANSHATOG. O.2' 0/45 9 <x rele eierereie eels Caer ee tat — Russian, .. $570... s eee + \:& plea eee 
mem LTVGION j: 73 Sys oe salves ee oreo ms Sore ue a COUN. — Salmis, champagne and truffles...... 315, 
wees: AGRIIAN 7 br Saeies ie eies es ose ise wales eee gr OUE — Salmis, red wine............ <3 paint, Coe 
mre UUVIPTIV Ane okt 6 tons aes nin hele nivie wiele see Sanu TI — Salmis, white wine......... « 6a phe pe 
— Laguipierre...... ere Raper ee Lt — shallot.; 0.4 .saes amen Pe 
— La Valliére............ Vee gewnneete se etale — shallot gravy......... rere 
=— Lithuanian< oc0v-0 Py Rees Peni co ist — shallot, with marrow........ee.+--. 509° 
== LODStOT, sa. Alea scea nue aceale ee are ee Cen ee OUk — Sharp... 2% os ss es 0+ ces eee onset BLe 
— lobster, with lobster butter.......... 308 — sharp, with capers and onion purée.. 316. 
— lobster, with Madeira wine.......... 3808 — sherry wine...........e0- <a 4 hea eeteiaee 308. 
— Lombarde.... ..... has eee alee asst BOOS mm SHTIMPS ./. oy water eeiere cote us op oes ee 
ame LUCAS. ooo at ok ee eae es econ ne PROUT — shrimp and cream..........+-ee0+2- S16: 
— Lyonnese, with tarragon............ 308 -— shrimp and crab... ......s«s<se) enn 
—- ‘Madeira: Wine. side os heey este cle oe os 308 ome SICIIIBH [71s cg acide Caetees oc aces 05h s cane 
— maitre-d’hétel, thickened....... cate serous os HOUDISO. sz 6 <6 beso cae oo 00 00,0'\ esis 
— maitre-d’hotel, with marrow......... 298 we SOUT. fc svete eo anetate Peter ee 
— Mantaise.........scscee. ads vier ote ET OUS mor OVA ose Sie oie tale Os Pere 
wm (MATCORU. ivgisten cs sath se aes Cates . 809 — Supreme........ reer 
=> Marinade... <«.ccbas ccseeleers othe vane MeOUe — tarTAagON....cccosece ere 
— Mariniére ..........2. enigma «ein uae 309 a LOMIRLO... « dss pela nee a eine 00000 0s «niga 
— Marsala wine.......cceces Se wes eee UO — tomato, Andalouse...........<ase9 seen 
— Matelotte. .......... seshiets Malia ee ie ieee — tomato, Condé.......... PP 
— mayonnaise. .......... EET Po 297 — tomato, extract ..... 00 toes nae a sing a 
— Milanese.......... Fact vena taces satel neue — tomato, Parisienne. ... ..<cs<s«scusnee 
— Mirabeatei. aoe sec sas parse teesecc sue OUe —= truffles; cost aa ees ha sie eee Pree 
— Montebello......... oss Kahne ae Nereis ea ce LU — turtle, fat and lean.........sccesecs Le 
— Montigny...... Cane tee le he enacts enol ——=2Valoisen. so. «intus Ry ere sea ovine ee 318: 
—- Mornay... ...00% Nhe Rema Cetioers 310 -~ Venetian.......s000 « ‘oem sie emis i aoe 
— MUShFOOM. s capenss see h eee ee Sean OO — venison ......... reakierette 2 ce ee 319: 
— mussel .......00- Aan sete ka lots Sites ats 310 — Victoria... .. 02.02 00see0 es 59 hs Omen 
-— Neapolitan.3 224+ n0<ceee wae eeee es 310 — Viennese......... POET ASE coc 319: 
— Nonpareil.....ccsccccecss Cees aan. 311 — Villars...3.00ices va cs de weet, eee 319: 
— Normandes....% ssc oe eer b eiiwis eae 311 — Villerol;... 0% shee seem ee sp cepa 319 
— olive, stuffed or not stuffed.......... 311 -—— Westphalian ..i0.,.«>ss55+ anne .- Slt 


~~ OTANZO. nc shes Perea See ee .--. 3811 4. — white, English, and without butter.. 31% 





Sauces (hot)— 


s eee ee eeeceeeereeeeeeeeeeeses 


, 

; . Sauces (stocks, essences, ete.).... ..... 

: PeMTEOESOG. goa ccd. ccs occ caudecss : 
— Allemande, with mushroom essence. . 
— béchamel. 


eoee eee eee eee eer ernie eeeeoe 


— béchamel, with mushroom essence... 
— brown, Espagnole or Spanish........ 
— duxelle or cooked fine herbs......... 
— essences and fumet..........eseeees 
= essence Of Chicken, .......cccesecces 
STC) 6 0) Ca A 
Be OCOD MAING... acco tet ee ences 
OS Teo 6) ag 
— essence of hot aspic.......... ...00- 
— essence of mushrooom............06. 
SECS OF TOOL. os. 3 sa secs cee sece ot 
— essence of tame or wild duck........ 
Memeeeence OF LPUING . ose eect wees eee 
Bete OLDS, TAW. i2c. sc ces ccesccecses 
— fumet of partridge or other game..... 
— glaze, chicken or game............. : 
OS ee 
— glaze, clear half........... ‘ances oe 
— glaze, meat, clear...... Lec wecscesece 
— glaze, meat, plain 
BPR TOOG cs dt ccs cuss esse tcec sce 
eEPAVY  CICAE tot cee cece ecces oe 
— gravy, thick 
— half glaze, thickened and clear 
BRB TION. i. sa ese nes ces csonesas 
— stock, braise, for braising meats. .... 
— stock, brown, Spanish or Espagnole.. 
— stock, fish, for lean Espagnole and 
SOI ees oic/ 4 v's bas ess lee ee 

— stock, mirepoix and dry mirepoix.. 
— stock, poéler, for cooking fowl or 
white game meat............-50. 
— stock, veal blond 
BeEtOGH, VCIOULE, 0.05.5 cen veee Paeteea's 
RE OUSCOC iv ssn. ve ece se ascccasccess 
—velouté and brown, Espagnole or 
Spanish, for lean..............4. 
Sauerkraut, garnished ...........-.-++- 
Sausages (see pork).............--200eee 
— smoked, with or without garlic, 
D’Arles, Lyons, Mortadella (Fig. 


eevee eeeseeeneee eee 


eoeoecere ee eoret eee ee eee eee 


eeoeeoevreseoees eevee eo oe 


MEMEO TNOACS LOO, sinc. > ess keencepassee 
Savarin 3 la Valence........-.seeeeees : 


Scoald, to... 2.2.2.0 cscrcc cee c cece sees 
Scallops (St. Jacques shells) (Fig. 277)... 
— 4 la Brestoise 
— a la Havraise (Fig. 278)....... s+. ° 
saa 1h MIMTIDICTO... acer eer ccvaccceudaas 
— on toast, baked........+. vem me 


ereovoeceveeereonneee ee 088 8 @ 


INDEX. 1175 
PAGE. PAGE. 
peallops, Orly -2acca leis nes sce eee ale 
820 prev PATISIAI BLYIG casa os bs ooh cots koe ee 419 
320 — with eggs and bread-crumbs......... 419 
289 == With milk’and flour: 5.00. ''ssele ees oats 419 
292 scotel’ Hareins . 5... .cho.eee ed oe 542 
292 mea. halos eich ans si tereteiee cae eae 823 
293 Service for table, wines, etc............. a 
2938 Shad a la Creole, Creole rice............. 457 
2938 — a la Evers, garnished with shad roe 
293 Bnet se. soe cae as epee cater eee 458 
294 — broiled, ravigote butter (Fig. 300)... 457 
289 ~~ Brussels styl ate. asia = cates a cee oe 458 
289 — Irish style, Flag with shad roe 
289 CTO USHIOS: oie u.apics etek Seok 458 
289 — planked, ravigote butter ............ 458 
289 — with sorrel purée and sorrel leaves... 458 
289 Sheep’s ears, Westphalian............... 536 
290 -— tails with olives: {i575 co. eo cee 545 
290 — tongues, écarlate, with spinach...... 546 
290 — tongues, Neapolitan style........... 546 
290 — trotters a la poulette..............4. 546. 
290 — trotters a la vinaigrette.............. 546 
290 Sheepshead 4 la béchamel.............. 459 
290 — ala Bourguignonne ..............6. 459 
290 in B18, Buena VIStAns vie. dene code net 459 
291 — 4 la Meissonier........... Re ers 459 
291 = Cardinal SAUCO: 5.0 cs cavecnac seman s 459 
291 == S1ICOd. With JOLLY: «cs. < wietre'wias Werclotpiats 790: 
291 — with thickened court-bouillon ....... 460: 
291 mhells, Benoiton ss <s.< 505. eae een 706: 
292 — beef palates 4 la Mariniére .......... 707 
292 po DYRING 54 Oy dia ioe he a dae sola Re 709 
293 — capon with jelly. ..........eseseecee 791 
292 —- chicken & la ‘Shaw. s5.0asscskwekeee s 707 
295 — chicken or sweetbreads ............. 708: 
295 — filled with crawfish tails (Fig. 487)... 707 
— filled with shrimps and oyster crabs 
294 CPU ASS ac co syeec ss on inin > Heep ae 107 
295 mem TIR TL tac scien se Rie cers oie a pee Ren 708: 
Bee, LOLS. Wiese Vins» vies ye ie pein Aces ee vara 708. 
295 me LOMEEOL Sao oes een ita mare aa win sien/ Sra ears 708: 
296 — mussels or oysters, baked.......... < 08 
295 — oysters 4 la Villa... 6. 0s ces esss ones 706. 
294 — oysters baked in their natural shells. 708 
— oysters in their natural shells........ 709 
294 — oysters roasted in their natural shells 709 
840 — oysters roasted, English style ....... 709 
577 — oysters with fried bread, in their... 
SHES. f. oss ee tee aes ons a 709: 
ane 3.) Pee y Pee ee ett ee 791 
365 =~ Ted GHAP PEL .c avvghaw ue hadi ye vind ve 791 
685 — scallops, Parisian style............+. 709 
173 om HHO DOCS o whine nae oipmmas wo. bnie 6 Sh bite & 458 
942 — spinal MATTOW.......-esereseveceees 70 
954 — squabs, baked......2cccesvecorevees TOD 
906 — sweetbreads, vealor lamb, dla Harper 710 
213 — terrapin with hazel-nuts..........- . 710 
418 Sherbets and punches (see ices)......... 1000 
418 Sherry and bitters...........eee0e seers 1065 
418 Shrimps (Fig. 279)......0.-eeeeeeeeeeee 419 
418 PO EIOG ok isin naa halk nice eet awe op 419 
419 in side dishes ........eeseseseceeces 365 


é 


1176 


Shrimps with tomatoed Béarnaise....... 
—=— With MUSNFOOMS . «vs + «2 6teaes eres 
Short loin of beef (see beef)............ 
Side dishes, cold;.5 J.ssietcicosteh cee 
am HOG: eee ngs Soe ee ee ee eee 


— in Bellevue and others. for cold meats 
etc. (Figs. 501 to 507)...... ee 

— of chicken livers, Culbert sauce...... 
— of lampreys, marinade sauce......... 
Sliced and buttered rye or white bread... 
— and rolled bread ; 2.0. coi ¢en esses 
Smelts a l’Alexandria..........:..c-0000 
a= la Gondolieres cy. sss os Seka ee ae 
——'§ la Notfolksa.2 (kes ea aasiale eres 
== GIplOMatiC ..0.25.5 tse ccolete eels ee Sore 
— fried on skewers, tartar truffle sance. 
— in Dauphin a la Hamlin............. 
—~ MAriNated®, .!, sm os wc celia wale ate w lele sie see 
Smoked beef 243.3... Ske. oe eee 
— breast-0f -PO0s80. wares esta ctsa melee als 
ase SAIMAON «6s ORAS eas a Rie aie Pees oe ae 
—— | SUL LCON. cm - ees © oe ately, o's aievelereld Sesye yy 
— TON PUG acento st aes Oe vests msde wit 
Smother meats, to: 2.0... saves cue 
Snails (see edible snails) (Fig. 270)....... 
Snipe, African: stylec: ces vee iets 
—'# la Montaland #24. 9a ee eee wate 
=~ A la .Waléskiseeesibs an Gaciectr es cee 


— English (Fig. 398).............0.0. ; 
iow TTY .PAPOTS 8.5. oe oles oe coe aire sete 
= TOASEOG 0% Oeics Ge pce ete a eee 
— stuffed, Bordelaise.................. 
— sand, roasted, with water-cress...... 
Socles and ornaments (Figs. 527 to 580)... 
Soles a la Colbert—fried ................ 
—— a 1a) Uber co.cc ewe ce coe are 


— baked, Italian style... .......0..00- 
— fillets, a la Marguery ............0.- 
— fillets, a la Mazagran (Fig. 581)...... 
— fillets, a la Richelieu................ 


— timbale of fillets of, 4 la Gauloise.... 
Sorrel with :eravy. .9. 3. sa ee 
Soufflé of chicken (Figs. 489, 440)........ 

—- of chicken @ la Delsart 

— chestnuts with vanilla .............. 

—» chocolate i, ?es5cne se Pend Cec wl ateronte 


PAGE. 


419 


THE EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Soufflé, creamy, with cheese............. 870 
— fat livers with truffles............... 710 
— game a la Lucie..-... 00. eas cuen eee 711 
— in cases with vanilla or orange—small 
(Figs. 684; 585) -.<3 3.0 sewage 906 
— lobster in. cases.....Vc. seca ele ee eee 
— partridge a la Haggins.............. 711 
— pheasant a la Andrew.............-- 711 
— rice with maraschino .............. » 906 
— with Parmesan cheese............¢. 870 
— with raspberries.... . raha oe paca 907 
— with Swiss cheese............. ees 870 
— with Swiss and Parmesan cheese—in 
CASES, 66.6 [ocala dus 8 alee er 870 
— woodcocks with truffles......... Sas 
Soups (plate). ........ 2... .2d ees ee 239 
— broths, care to be taken while prepar- 
ING... vig eu eal dale ote ete 240 
— broths, clear, bouillon .............. 240 
— broths, white, chicken bouillon...... 241 
— consommeé, clarified. .........ce.ces oe 
— consommé, chicken, clarified ........ 241 
— consommé, fish, clarified............ 241 
— consommé, game, clarified ......... 242 
—consommé, vegetable, clarified for 
Lent /...... i2300s 2) ee ee . 242 
— fat, albumen, bones...........e.ee0- 239 
— fibrine, gelatine and osmazome....... 240 
— parts of beef for preparing bouillons 
and stocks. .37 i -+ <0 us semen 242 
— stock of beef or broth............... 242 
—game, vegetable, fish and chicken 
stock for thick soups.. «2... aaa 243° 
— thickenings for. ....2.../00cesmeeeuee 218 
Soups (bisques)............... «+ Cees 243 
— crabs. }:.'s,. 5 3/s.0ar0sie ee ios alae en 
— crabs ala Stevens .......... obit Nelieters 243 
— crabs, Oriental .% 6.4 5.55. seeee dics 
— crawfish.) .... 1s). on, » «9 eee . 244 
— crawfish a la Bateliére. ..... wares 244 
— crawfish 4 la Humboldt....... ‘diy oe 
— crawfish ala Persigny...... <0 beeeet eee 
— lobster. ...0. 6.10). seas ene o </dolaihy een 
— lobster a la Benoist...... ....... RP eS 
— lobster a la Cambridge......... os kes, ee 
— lobster a la Portland, lobster que- 
elles ........0.00000 00050 ene 246 
— or purée of clams 4 la Hendrick...... 248 
— or purée of mussels a la Cutting..... 246 
— or purée of oysters a la Wilson...... 246 
— shrimps a la Melville............... 247 | 
— shrimps a la Veragua...........-.+> 247 
— shrimps, Bretonne...........«s suman 247 
Soups (consommé), Adélina............ 248 
— Andalouse......i.s.00e08 0.5 ease 248 
— Antonelli, lean or fat... ...s..aneeen 248 
— Balzac, chicken, shrimp and green 
pea timbales,...s... 2.0.4 sess mane 248 
— Bariatenski............ Per 249 
— Berrys sie «secs Sytner 249 
— Britannia . 02. 00-8. nn ns Oo emee ee 249 
— Caréme, lean or fat.... ...-+0.. woeay teee 





Soups (consommé)— — 

— Célestine....... Apia s Mee i's 666s vases 

— Charmel.--......... iw wigs ralebie ss a's’ 

— Colbert, with poached eggs.......0. 
SERA Ban's iTy-h aie ie © oles Don Peon 

— cream of pheasants or game......... 

— Daumont........... I Or eee 

— Dubarry....... pails e's eels Viaisinie pie Wie 
—-Duchess......... Aaa Os twas see 

‘ ee LOPONENOS. « vigiecs wcielt bees goes Fexaas 
BRT WING oa ducw See scald Gece asees 
BePRATUISAINES OL esse iow sveeseccccees 

¥ — Grammont. ..... Gines Sec wecrecccecn 
— Hongroise......... occ ccereccccccces 

eemtIN I CEMUPICO d's wiaia's ac c.bw'e vosicdcves 

— Laguipierre........ ot aoe Saar nee 

Pe NORINOS . (55. Se tee Seseee eetaee sos 


Seen RIMOLOV elgg gies occ cicccnievccevcees 
— Printaniére, with quenelles.......... 


SPPLGMIGSAL lols v.00 ec ceece scones eoess: 
BOPP AIS cnr ww's soc ce eect atas/ai'e/e|e0. 4:4 
— Sévigné ........sseceee Give kee s ese 
— Souveraine........+ee.e. teaee nee ss 
— with Chinese birds’ nests.........00- 
— with swallows’ nests....... BURA eae 
Soups (cream) .............seeseecevee 
p= artichokes, Morlaisian .....cccccscces 
— asparagus a la St. Vallier............ 
— asparagus, with crofitons, souffiés or 
ASPATAQUS tOPS.....eeeeeececeees 

— barley, Vienna style...........eee0- 
— Brussels sprouts. .........ee sseeee : 
— carrots, with Compiégne crofitons.... 
— cauliflower, BriSSOn.......e.esecsvee 
— celery or cardoons a la Livingstone, 
marrow quenelles......... eee 

— chiffonade, with crusts........ atehicnts 
— cucumber a la Sheppard ......++-+0- 
— green corn a la Hermann..........- ‘ 
— green corn & la Mendocino ........-- 
— Jerusalem artichokes ...... eriiateuinie 4 
— leeks, with quenelles....... SP otevasiain's 
— lettuce, romaine or chicory, a la 
POV OTSe: srsinjs-esisis a 0st s oe sraiwip. ait,ccale 


— lima, kidney or horse beans .......++ 
— peas 4 la St. Germain.......+seeeeee 
— peas, with mint ......... a re eee 
— rice a la Crémieuk.......sseceeeeees 
— sorrel, with stuffed eggs...e.see-see 
— squash ........seeeeceee are S Nala eae 
— string beans 4 la Véfour.......+s++-+ 
— sweet potatoes a la Gérard.....0++++> 


— turnips. .......ecercccccee eels ese wie 
— vegetable a la Banville.......+. ae 
Soups (purée), capon a la Jussienne.....-. 
— carrots 4 la Crécy......... Wo eaava wes 
— chicken a la Dufferin........eseeeeee: 
— chicken a la Reine.......-- ES 
— English snipe......--+++e+s ede bein sis 
— grouse & la Manhattan....+.+++ee++es 
— lentils, Chantilly........esseeees eee 


— leveret or young rabbit, St. James... 


Pace. 


249 
250 
250 
250 
250 
250 
201 
201 
201 
251 
247 
252 
202 
251 
252 
252 
252 
253 
208 
258 
203 
203 
254 
204 
254 
254 
254 


205 
200 
200 
258 
259 


= INDEX. 


Soups (purée)— 


— oatmeal 


> FLOUIOUAGINIG eas occa ie tee 


— partridge or quails 4 ld D’Henin...... 


— pigeons or wild squabs a la Waleski.. 
— potatoes a la Benton. .........e00e0. 
~~ plover. ......06% A PO i Oe Pe eee 
— pullet or Guinea fowl a la Wash- 

DUED As. «5 arate Baek Tene ae coves 
— red beans a la Condé...........00006 


— reedbirds or larks with chestnuts.... 
— split peas with croftitons or rice....... 
—- to strain (Figs. 99, 99a, 99b).. ...... 


— wild ducks, canvasback, redhead or 


Mallard a la Van Buren...... fens 
— wild turkey a la Sartiges......... cee 
— woodcock @ la Théo........... oe ae 


Soups (varied), barley, with celery ...... 


— barsch, Polish style... .ec:cescccess 
pam BONE Witte af, costes oteetrecews 
— Benoiton........... ee Cre eee Oe 
— Bouillabaisse.........- Scarite e ak ewse 
— Bragance .........sccesecsevces esos 
— Brunoise, with quenelles.......... ee 
= CAD DAL Cs. 6c as w since oss ele nels Bene at ° 
— calf’s feet, English style ..........0. 
— calf’s tail Ada Rundell.. ..5s)scees 
— cassava and gluten......ccccccseee 
wmn CHAMIDETIAIN. salen << als Hees Sie cale Hise ade 
— Champetre. . ...cceccccnscvccvecees 
— Chartreuse...... Pert arora coves 
= chicken and leeks si.c0 tees v0 0000 yb 
mos CHICK OM: OKTR:. cds ctenistes = eins aebaalnle ° 
cn CHOWUET Of CLAMS oss ano ose eia vac e.s 55 
— chowder of fresh and salt water fish 

2 la StORONS.G Soe ces ce <tas on bee ae 
— cold, Russian style, Kwass....... eae 
— crab and shrimp, 4 la Loubat........ 
— crawfish, a la Renommée..........6. 
— Crofite au pot.........0. aie sais aca nistete 
— D’Osmont .... 2. ccccosee oie ae ie a aleve 
— Faubonne.......... eels wal 6s cosvscce 
— Fermiére style........ he bae esc tie iee 
— fish, 4 la Ponsardin..... Wocuia Sa/tale eis 
— frog, with timbales... ...s..seeseee 
— garbure with lettuce...........- ecees 
— giblet, a la Reglain........... coeeee 
— gnocquis, ila Pagioli......--++.+-+- 
— gumbo or okra with hard crabs, Creole 

BEVIE .i5 spose viwenewinsic nave s pee 
— gumbo with soft shell crabs.......+- 
— Hunter’s style... .... eee ceeevecceee 
— Japanese or Nizam pearls........++- 
— Jerome, with sweet potato quenelles. 
— Julienne........ecccccccccscccccsese 
— Julienne Faubonne......-+e+e+-eeees 
— Julienne Mogul.......-ssseeeseeees 
— knuckle of veal 4 la Briand ......... 
—lamb or veal sweetbread, German 

SEY]O. cc evencreacnnecrsevnses 
— lobster and crawfish, Duke Alexis... 
— Menestrone Milanese ........-.ss0- 
Sats SVIATIIOG «acces ence es cs we cay ce ntianes 6 


1178 THE 


Soups (varied )— 
— Marshall... 
— Meissonier... 
— Mogul....... selects 


— Monteille...... chav elnis plete nitn tine ene 
— Montorgueil....... sileleiee tates see cine 
— Mullagatawny, Indian euioe oe eee oie 
— mussel, a la Vigo......... ayaa ete oie 
— mutton, a la Cowley..........06. ahs 
<= mutton hochepoh 2G eros. pea eee ate 
— noodle, with Parmesan cheese....... 
— noques or quenéfes..........eeeseee 
— onion, with Parmesan cheese, browned 

and thickened )3. se. .2.. cee ss me 
— oxtail, a la Soyer....... .... Gate oiente 
— oyster, ala Cruystss vss aise vies cstee 
— oyster, American style......... Sohne 
— oyster, French style...... a siecetae ets : 


— oyster, with powdered okra or gumbo 
— oyster, with oyster ravioles... 


— partridge, a la Royale........ arin It 
— pastes, Florence snow......secceseee 
— pastes, Lasagnes..........6. eves e's. 
— pastes, Lasagnettes .....ccccsccccces 
— pastes, macaroni........ Ainaisals s aesieie 
— pastes, macaroncelli.....ccccccccoces 
~— pastes, palllettes,...<t.0.0 scene eeewa se 
— pastes, spaghetti.........ceee Dagens 
— pastes, tagliarelli......... ota s salwisicls ° 
— pastes, vermicelli..... ...... A RS ee 
mo ALOTSOD Se carey okisiein arene pia layaiecinte wore 
— Pilau, Turkish style...... winnie is crete , 
— pot-au-f6U... .cccsccessscs Sates Osis 


— raviole and ROBT i vicpas ete osve oe ase cer 
m= ICO, AAR AUGING, Gaset segs cae ce 


— sago or Ssalep......se00- pieces Sarena 
aes HOTT OLINID | 6-0 lain we nie gv ata verca 6 ae Oe 
ams HOLMAN ss oc a ces c awe seats Bh Sen 303 
= shrimp, mignon 2.5 see cssics eeees eee 
-— small individual soup-pots (Fig. 198). 
om Sorrel TGs es eke eee eee te “ 
— sorrel with herbs and Flemish style. . 
— spaghetti with cream..............- : 
— Spanish Oillas A eyoc1. .cse reece ee : 
=~ LAPLOCA .:.) visisaicistge sine aes we eae ontemertete ° 
— terrapin, clear, thick or white....... 
— turtle, dried, thick or clear.......... 
— turtle, green, clear a la royal, or thick 
with marrow quenelles.......... 

— turtle, mock, clear, calf’s head....... 
—— turtle, mock, thickened....... ....- 
— turtle, to prepare one weighing one 
hundred pounds......... Lene sere 

— VOlVObi) i.e ye bem ras wiciaie'eclalolataecterete ‘ 
— Westmoreland........ Hae Sue: DEK 
— Woodcock. .....scesee Suir Ne bis One ° 
Soups and pita ineini 8 for invalids. 5 
— arrowroot, Indian.. «noe wee peste RNS 
— Bavaroise........ code ua te piace wets 
~— heel JnICE.) inns oe eee ser ae 
— broth, chicken and mutton, with 


barley. s).'. a vsak eae see seen 


EPICUREAN. 


Pace. 


273 
273 
271 
278 
274 
274 
274 
274 
274 
275 
282 


275 
275 
276 
275 
276 
276 
2716 
276 
Q77 
277 
277 
277 
277 
277 
277 
277 
277 
Q07 
2770 
277 
283 
278 
271 
271 
278 
278 
279 
279 
279 
279 
280 
271 
280 
280 


281 
281 
282 


281 
282 
282 
283 
283 
283 
285 
286 


283 


i 


ay 


Soups and preparations for invalids— 
— broth, chicken and veal....... sie vues 
— broth, chicken, plain...... ae a eae 
— broth, clam and purée.........e.00e. 
— broth, fish, with clams..... Ws seacerenmene 
— broth, frog and purée..... Peibiene se nee 
— broth: herbd..wtsseo ee 5 ke wlan 
= broth; mutton irik. Sewanee Pn 
— broth, veal, refreshing...... o ja: via aan 
— broth, wheat, oats or barley.......... 
— custard cream of chicken or game.... 
— extract of beef, plain............... F 

_— jelly, chicken and calf’s feet....... as 
— jelly, meat and calf’s feet........... 
— mulled egg and almond milk with rice 

MOUs. 0.450 heey ue 
— purée of barley with chicken broth... 
— purée of chicken......... Jee eee “5 
— purée of prouse ... ha ee aes aan 
— purée of oatmeal or wheaten aus 
— purée of partridge... ......csceseeu 
— purée of roebuck......2. 245 ss eeeeme 
— sabayon of chicken or game........ . 
— tea, beef... 6 sid sonia eet eee 
— tea, chicken......4.00rs2e0e owelenen 
— tea, MUtLON...% <.\c dics aioe alee age oe 
— VOGLe sinisie ais wig’ n'e e's slee aee as ook 

Spaghetti macaroni a Ja Laurence...... 
—— Ala Lucinis<:..ticeseeueue «ieee . 
— & la Pratis.é 1c: tse sn see eee 
— Queen style... 2. secess one ry 
— Salvyini...:.. sissies dass atime 

Spices, aromatics and seasonings for cook- 

INQ PUTPOSES. «+005 seve saleeaneee 

Spin sugar by throwing, to.....,....... 

Spinach a la Noailles. ......-...0eese0e. 
— ala Rougemont...... 3 ily Siete ingen 
— English style........... ose es emee 
— with béchamel sauce........se..00 
— with cream ............ cece e leh cate 

Spinal marrow (see veal)..........0002 

Sponge cake (see cakes)....... oa tee 

Spotted-fish a la Livournaise.... ....... 
— English style—fillets.......... So eee 
— mussel sauce—whole ....s.eeceeeeee 
— Queen sauce—fillets .......... aca Sate 


— with court-bouillon, Calcutta... ..... 
— with green ravigote sauce... 


@esov2ece® 


Squabs @ la Briand... 2.5. ...0020 e000 
— ala Carolina.......... 6a ajtlewe® sate 
=a la Crispi iss sacs oatcas 5 éie\s'eblee waa 
— ala Flourens............ a'cinoi! where a 
— ailImpromptu—sautéd ..........00. 
— a la Stanislas—stuffed ..... aietaceae ave 
w= §, ta V estalyens aie eae Osa Vaca 
— American style—stuffed............. 
— ballotines a la Madison (Figs. 452, 

ADB) wacd-vin.n tare de ee eee ‘ls aden 
-— breasts a la Duxelle.. ...s0. coi wae eae 
— broiled, Colbert sauce...... a0 Oe 
— Crapaudine (Fig. 384)...........005s 


— cutlets (see cutlets)..... 


Pace 


283: 
283. 
284. 
284. 
284 
285 
285: 
286. 
287 
284. 
284. 
285- 
285: 


285. 
286- 
286 
286 
286. 
286: 
286. 
286- 
286- 
286. 
286. 
286. 
867 
867 
867 
867 
868: 


2138: 
1038. 
841. 
841 
841 
841. 
841 
522 
942: 
464. 
464. 
464. 
464. 
464. 
464. 
626. 
629 
626- 
627 
627° 
627 
629 
627 


730 
629: 
627 
626- 
688: 





INDEX. 1179 


PAGE. 
Squabs, English style.............. Pea vORT 
— fritters, Oporto sauce.............. . 629 
— in earthernware saucepan or stuffed— 
TE OA ee OS 628 
Se MNOW EY OF BtVIOS. 65 bce bse occu cous 628 
—or wild pigeons, poupeton, Ancient 
eee Ss iahe ax is's gelv «/alis's’a'se sews 654 
— with Figaro sauce—fried............ 628 
eIGHOCATYED ON. <4 es evs s ce vevccss 628 
Squash (marrow) with Parmesan......... 841 
Steaks (see beef)..... 2.0.0... cece cee 484 
Stearine, how to cast and color.......... 214 
Stewed apples with jelly................ 1056 
0 hoe 5 eee 1056 
SOT SG? ee ose L056 
EE AINIES ee iietec's osetia cede cece cece - 1056 
Greg So kes polices cscs oes 1056 
w—-peaches Or apricots........0.00. 2. 1057 
ECS eos e eect b sc esse ecsascece 1057 
RR DIO 2). 5 occas oele's cscs os eee es 1057 
ERs oe Glan dass pace sewaacs 1057 
SCIPS cee cis Vee te ce ee eee ss 1057 
B= SUPAWDOITICS.. 05. -.0.cs ee esse Peak 1057 
Stock, white, for meats and vegetables.... 221 
Strasburg liver pie (Fig. 519)............ 782 
Strawberries and raspberries—stewed... 1057 
SUEAWCITY jUice..........5..0000e.eeee 1052 
0 OS RS ee ernie 366 
String beans 4 ]’Albani................. 841 
— ala Bourguignonne................ 842 
MICU GSU iinigs ci cn csc cece ev sees 842 
RUMMOEMS RIP OU are is.c gic as cis aja's"s siete cdeece 366 
MRIE OPO etic cco scaysacceesce 842 
RI UILLOD os sce ed sche tices nese 842 
Sturgeon fricandeau, with sorrel or green 
ST aes SaOCee Se aian ra 465 
— or sterlet, Livonienne—small........ 794. 
—or sterlet, with quenelles and olives 
ONS oe Bn ae err ey 465 - 
Succotash ....... Rese ccs woke «abe 825 
Suckling pig 4 la Piedmontese.......... 578 
Oy Pres dae <loals sd sv voce Seas 758 
— roasted on the spit or stuffed........ 579 
— salted and smoked, with sauerkraut.. 579 
Suedoise of apples and pears............ 927 
Sugar flavored with vanilla.............. 905 
— for casting in molds ........ ....-.- 1035 
Pee MOCHA Gel cake e thc ces che eee sc ceceee 939 
— of different colors and icing sugar... 217 
— satinated pulled...... -.....seeeee- 1033 
PIOMCOOK ecg le su cones cs cc cer eess cee 216 
— to spin by throwing..........++.+++: 1035 
Surprise of fruits, frothy sauce......... 928 
Surtout of chicken livers with mushrooms, 
or in rice border with curry...... 712 
— of chicken livers with mushrooms... 712 
— wild pigeons—baked.........-+++s ; ie 
Sweetbreads, lamb (see lamb)......++++ 565 
— veal, a la Binda (paillettes).......-- . O22 
— veal, dla Bussy........-eeseeerseees 522 
— veal, a la Columbus ......+++++e++0> 522 


— veal, a la Conti .......-s+eeeeeerere 


hk 


a 


: PAGE 
Sweetbreads, veal, 4 )’Kcarlate.......... 523 
—< veal, al Mupénie, . ...2% ss.oeeet ban 523 
— veal, 4 la La Valliére..........sc00. 523. 
— veal, ala Mirabean.:.......0 nae 794. 
— Vonlea la Maltese: 2a.) aut, whe 523: 
—— Veal, a lacMarellly: oes. 25.1 ae ee 524 
— veal, 2 la Montebello. .... ca kane eee 524. 
— veal, 4 la Montpensier............... 524 
=—. Veal) a la Princesse... cas. dese sk gous 525. | 
— veal, la St. Cloud........ pina ee 525. 
—— veal, # la St. Laurent. .2..2.000c00 ss 525: 
— veal, 4 la Théodora (Fig. 331) ....... 525. 
+ an Chancelir. said. 5. tense e  e 525. 
=~ au Monarchy.a.5 So ne 526. 
— cutlets (see: cutlets). 2... .c.c ceeds 689: 
— English style, brown English sauce.. 526. 
—escalops, a la Caréme................ 692. 
— fritters, cream sauce.........ecece0 526. 
1 PADETS' Sette ely oil oe ete oe See. 526- 
— larded and glazed with cépes Borde- 
LAISR 2. Gee oc eines 526: 
—larded and glazed with gravy (Fig. 
= 5) eee eae ee yr ed re 527 
— Neapolitan style... . occa eect cece 524 
aw: Pavision Sty loc. mete fs cigsie canine eee > O27 
— Piedmontese style.............e000. 525, 
= Portupuese. sty le tect, tae ~0 dere wives 525 
=~ Spanish sty lets m.sisn's sie vie wssastace’s bras 527 
SWAY: LOrPYOparel c\ese > cscae vives cite 522: 
—- with quenelles. .. 2... 2. setae ens eels 527 
Se APIO Hes de ig ise ose Sas eee pare 527 
Sweet entremets......... .......eee00. 873: 
Sweet potatoes (see potatoes)........... 842: 
Syrup-of apples... 0... cc. cect cece cecens 908 
Tagliatelli in croustade .............56- 870 
Walls; lamb, Contig: ca. esses ss aleee <h 566 
Tart, band (Fig.100):..0: cade oe ire ale we 217 
w= (GEG! PIES) ios wh uiers oops Sea oles. ep mie eee 712, 
SeaC OTC een A Wie Naw yee Saw ire eine 928 
— empty, Ancient style (Fig. 101)...... 217 
— pigeon, 4 la Britannia .............. 714. 
Tartlets, almondine... ............2.0+- 955. 
——'RPPlOy iiss cin Avi ele  o alent wags mee awieierete 955 
——~ Bordelaises< oscce sess cee sie's sty oe mame 955 
a— CHOITY 5. See sn dice vonnseees seep ee 955 
tan’ COlOM DIA ey He Se e'aldd gee Vin.» «en eaI ase 955 
wna DOMONOGH ss « casas sew chee act atin ane ielatas 956 
— Fanchonettes, meringued........... 956 
— game, lobster, salmon or nonpareil.. 366: 
+ FIETISGON .% Choeere waa pik owls 0 es 0's a ipiarere 956: 
— peach, with rice......+eesseeeee vee 956: 
~m POlETING 2... cece escceerecreerceees 956. 
— sour apple ........ceccccccsccecees 955 
ew Valencia: .. wees ctieccsece esseavcens 956 
— variegated frulit.......ceeceereeerees 956 
Tia. be dala <1 Ook ee tenes 1060 
— beef, mutton, chicken or veal........ 286. 
Russians code cated ss idee sake peda mes 1059 
— (see beef)... . cee eeeene ee eeeeenres 488 
Tenderloin of beef ala Bouquetiére.... 734 
on in EVES i ab eee «ab 6 kp o's hae nes 734. 
— ala Lucullus (Fig. 455),........+5+- 784 


1180 THE EPICUREAN. 


Tenderloin of beef a la Noailles..... ar 
— & la Violette. sue ee ss oneal ce eee 
— Grenadins Rochambeau ............. 
— with croustades, Macédoine......... 
— with vegetables, mayonnaise (Fig. 


— a la Maryland s.3 cose cma ne uae ss eee 
— a la Newburg) {oc gies tee eh sees 
—- & la Philadelphia. 725 .0..¢ deseeees : 
2 la “Trenton (2.3 asda ues a eanste eee 
—= Ancient styles (. vis csisiecs omcleteee stent 
— cutlets and croquettes, cream sauce.. 
— Epicurean style..... i shale’ tee twig ieee oe 
-— Maryland. Clab. ...2..00R3.s6ecsa008sun 
— stewed, with Madeira wine.......... 
— to prepare and cook................. 
— toselect, keep, table and price list (Fig. 
281) see bee ce es {sca a toon’ 
Terrine of duck’s liver a l’Aquitaine..... 
—of foies-gras in aspic—whole (Fig. 


— of. plowers and larks) 0.0. se8's <5 de 
a= Of POLK IVER. as oo cette oct bo a> Gees 
-— Of porkiliver; Or’ ples. ... ira alee coe 
=e OL IDCs saa eRe eats ee ie. 
<— OF wild rabbits ::3 oi. ss 3a< Bee ee hes 
Thickenings for soups, sauces and 
SLO WSs tice wa aa cee «fai clean ane 
Thrushes aila> Biancas 4.4.05. eee 


— in the saucepan ...........ceceeeees 
—— ON crolstades 20-7505 4 «cia cw cles siete 
Timbale:a la Wirdros.6. co. as cee 
— ala Nantaise (Fig. 441).............. 
— chicken, Parisian style—large (Fig. 


— fillets of soles a la Gauloise, Milanese 

macaroni croquettes.....<...2. ss 
— for epicures (Fig. 443) ............. 
— gnocquis a la Choiseul.............. 
— lobster a la D’Aumale............... 


— pheasants, with truffles (Fig. 532).... 
= pullet'.: viesaveg eee Avid eis nate ee taren 
— squabs 4 la Berchoux............-+. 
— sweetbreads, modern, large.......... 
— truffles 4 la. Périgord.« 2a%i. sate eee 
— waffles........... ne Rae ves ba eee 


PAGE. 
735 
735 


— 


Timbales, remarks on.......... tsige deren 
— Beaumarchais (Fig. 285)............. 
— Benton (Fig. 286)......... rey ee, 
— Calaisienne (Fig. 237). .....cssecesee 
— Chevaliére (Fig. 288).....256 0s as sents 


— LPOG. ws vas ee 2 be eae eee 
— for gourmets (Fig. 241).........5.00- 
— Harlequin (Fig. 242)............008- 
— Imperial (Fig. 248) ......... Rw 
— Irving (Fig.:244).. 0... Js 
— Lagardére (Fig. 245).............0.- 
— La Valliére (Fig. 246)........... eis 
— Lombardy (Fig. 247)............000. 
— Marly (Fig. 248)...........eeceee mae 
— Massilon—sweet................008- 
— Mentana (Fig. 249).............0000 
— Montgomery (Fig. 250).............- 
— Mosaic.(Fig. 251). 6... cess 
— Neapolitan (Fig. 252)....... ...ee0: 
— Palermitaine (Fig. 258) ............. 
— Périgordine (Fig. 254)..............- 
— Princess (Fig. 250)... eae see 
— Renaissance (Fig. 256).............. 
—— Ristori.(Fig. 257). 2.4.4. .95 eee 
— Rothschild (Fig. 258) ............... 
— Sartiges (Fig. 259). .....s0e way eee 
— Scotch (Fig.. 260). . so. woes awe 
— Soubise (Fig.:261) .5 a..04a oa pee eee 
— Soyer (Pig. .262).0 0s. «lee 
— Talleyrand (Fig. 263)2..). Co, ee 


— dry, buttered, dipped in water, milk 

OF CPOAM, .-. 5s... of see 
— Florentine... ..\..... :.. de te 9 ene 
— garnished with bacon.......... «bei 
— garnished with chicken............. 
— garnished with chopped chicken..... 
— garnished with peppers............. 
— with oil and cheese................. 


Tomatoes a la Boquillon................ 
— & la. Frossart.........:is08 se eee 
— a la Gibbons, sautéd and fried.. .... 
—-& la Trévises ..5.. 260 us cea eee 


— broiled, hot mayonnaise sauce....... 
— Greek style, stuffed................. 
— in cases—baked............. is VAP 
— Provengal style, stuffed............. 
— Queen style..... low Sia Sot le 
~~ small, staffed yi.0 sia As ee eee 
— stuffed with fresh mushrooms........ 
Tongue, beef (see beef)................4. 
— ala Rochefort (Fig. 538)............. 
— Arcade (Hig B84)i. accitates ta on een 
— red and smoked............0.. ona 
—— Ted; SMOKE. ssh. ao u a's cee ee ‘ 





Ts. >: 


, i. 
3 
; 


Tongue, red, with jelly.. 
— calf’s (see calf).... ... 
— cali’s a la macédoine.............00. 
—cod’s, with chopped sauce or black 


eoeeee eens eee 


AM EME oct aw iaied Gok as ee be 
— lamb’s, with olives................. 
— pig’s, Provengal style..... Mee dieses sy 
— sheep (see sheep)........... Feeney s 
Tournedos (see beef)...........,,.. ante 
Tourte of beef palate, Parisian style..... 
ee ICRP os5 coins, ig Vu tie seve cess ae 
— of fillets of soles 2 la Financiére (Fig: 
Sst Fea eae 
Triangle for dressing tongues, etc. (Fig 
0 SSR OMe Ga ae 
Tripe a la mode de Caen......... eS Lae 
-— a la poulette with mushrooms....... 
se SATtATO?, sss... ees es date are’ .o'5 0.0 
— baked, with Parmesan cheese....... 
— Lyonnaise.............4. Sore oer ‘ 
,— Parisian style............0086- ween 
== PAUPICLIES . 2... eee esen es eres 
— with cooked fine herbs.............. 
Trotters 4 la, Bordelaise...... Bakes ew tivias 
— ala Wenberg..... Si nitids cola eels Steele 
— ala Chantilly........ RLS Serer eee 
— ala Didier........ Rig Rain es 9s i’a:<ce 
Bere AL DOUIOLLO. Ss Xoo on cicciecies oe eee 
—with tarragon gravy—stuffed and 
DTOUC io. sais vise [OOS i See sears 
Trout a la Beaufort (Fig. 301)........... 
— ala Cambacéres.... .... Rate GPdigstare'e's 
—alaCaréme, brook .......ccec.cccee 
— ala Hoteliére....... eters ase cats © 
— ala Hussarde...... Peeeavek wets ces 
Bere ON OF ALGrr a bicoos sci ceccnce 
— ala Meuniére...... reiclaitn catae's ¢ o's 
— & la Montagnarde........secseccecce 
— au bleu—small........ Sc eee ea rere 


— cooked in court-bouillon and served 
with different sauceS.......e.e0. 
— fried—small....... ices whivid e's ais dens 
— Lausanne style 
— marinated and fried .......e.seee00 
— marinated in wine—small........... 
et GILILC oyignc ay 2 ose 0.0.00 a0 Grades eedee 
— salmon. 4 ]’Antoinette ... 
— salmon, vol-au-vent of, a la Régence. 
_— with jelly, tartar sauce (Fig. 535)... 
Truffle decorations (Fig. 485)..... 


eeeoeeeeoee Ones eee eere 


PROMOS 5 6d s'0is2 5 Baty saves eae SOE 
— in a napkin or in acroustade (Fig. 557) 
— in shells—baked......... ee ee Pe 
Dee EUARO ge a ange x <ie e wic ie 0.28 denis ove os 
— timbale a la Périgord............+. 
— to brash and peel.........cccecevese 


Truss, singe and dress poultry and game 
for entrées (Figs. 102, 103, 104)... 

— singe and dress poultry and game for 
roasting (Figs. 105 to111).......- 

Tunny fish, sardines, gurnet and accola 
1D OU Se iiiv sc o's aes Ris Pate vg win 


INDEX. 
PAGE. 
798 Tunny fish or horse mackerel, fried, with 
528 arrowroot mayonnaise sauce.-.... 
799 Turban of flukes or smelts, streaked—fil- 
lotic aha, a ane Raat re eS 
436 — of lobster, garnished with shells... ., 
566 Turbot a la rémoulade................., 
580 — Canadian, a la d’Orleans..... sale whe %s 
546 — Canadian, 4 la Houston........ « widiare 
496 — Canadian, a la Mercier.......... Poteide 
718 — English, with caper sauce .......... 
718 — or red snapper, marinated...... le mare 
Turkey 4 la Chipolata—stuffed .......... 
718 — a la Delagrange—wild—stuffed..... : 
— ala Financiére—larded (Fig. 385).... 
172 — a la Sartiges—studded (Fig. 386)..... 
505 ew fe 1M LOVED CI nc ee AsO. deme oa 
505 — American style—roasted...........0. 
505 — boned, a la Berger (Fig. 490).....;.. 
506 — breasts or fillets, 4 la Donovan....... 
506 — breasts, Gustave Doré...... .....00. 
506 — French style (Fig. 387).... .......e. 
506 — giblets a la Salmander.............. 
506 — giblets, peasant style ............00. 
566 — gobbler stuffed with chestnuts... ..,. 
566 — grenades a la Jules Verne......-.- :6 
567 meee OTN acs ete wes eee ae aa wighat oer taei ens 
567 — in Daube a la Verneuil (Fig. 536).. 
567 — legs with noodles, Milanese........ ° 
— or goose in Daube...).....c.ssceese 
567 — spring, paupiettes of, Souvenir (Fig. 
465 Soto) Reed alr gay ee tore a a4” te ee a ee 
466 —spring, purée of artichokes—larded 
799 Brit roasted cae vee os ees 
466 — spring, wings or breasts, with turnips 
466 — spring, with water-cress—roasted or 
466 rOuleier eas vos aiod sae Os ce 8 
466 —truffied and garnished with black 
466 OUUCR tact Saks cela hs 54% os wes 
466 — wings, fricasseed and baked.. 
— wings, with celery and Beecthata 
467 — wings, with risot—stuffed.......... . 
467 mes WEEMS CODOS Ss nie inv od sec cv ae'e i vest 
467 — with white oyster sauce........20¢ . 
367 Turnips, glazed........... evectbeeees 
367 — mashed...... Sat CVue A coals Fewiealn ges 
467 — Teltow, with chestnuts..........--. 
467 — with Spanish, béchamel or allemande - 
721 BRUCE 0000 Pease G civ esnwvese ee 
799 Turtle (Fig. 284) ......-..006 Segoe eka 
753 — green, baked—small....... <upre 
367 = Havana stylescic ss ccccess Cae sapere 
844 — stewed, a la Foster. .....0s-08-c008 ; 
845 Wadder, veal. Jo. css 0050's HRC =r Bhp fen 
845 Utensils for kitchen use (F igs. 115 to 197). 
845 Varenikis, Polish........ Sieg 5m ee peeve 
219 Veal, brains (see brains),.....++s++00seee 
— breast a la Bourdaloue.....ceeeerese 
219 — breast a la Ménagére.......- 
— breast a la Mondoux......sereserees 
219 — breast au gastronome eee rae hey 
— breast blanquetie a la Jacquart...... 
367 4. — breast stewed With FOUX ...+eceeeees 


1182 
Veal, breast, stuffed, with tomatoes, Queen 
Sty le.enos alsa nek bab oe ate etwnatete : 
— crow ala Normande........ sae ele ve 
— cutlets (see cutlets)............ sess 
— cuts, American, whole (Fig. 322)..... 
— cuts, half (Fig. 328)........ aa aera : 
— ears, stuffed, tomato sauce ...'....... 
— feet, American style.........-.eee0- 
-— fillet, grenadins, tomatoed, Argentine 
BRUCE sf. Pid donee nies ees stete atate 
— fillet minced, Portuguese........... : 


— fillet minions, purée of artichokes.... 
— fillet minions, with mushrooms (Fig. 


BOL xe edie aietere scouts auhaeeisve ne iaae erete : 
— fillet paupiettes 4 la Whittier........ 
-— fillet sliced with Pelerine potatoes... 
~e head :(see;calf).. << Vee evils cease cee ane 
— kernel a la Duchess... ... Rye ea A 
— kernel escalops a la Arnold.......... 
— kernel in aspic with macédoine arti- 

CHOKES eae toan & athe neater a enietetes 
— kernel with half glaze .............. 
— kernel with Macédoine, small kernels 

OF TUGB Sistas bs ents weleie sere ea iate are 
— kernel with Mayonnaise tomatoed 

SRUCOGl al wc es cece smeisiterere arene 
—kernel with thickened gravy (Fig. 

DRO) son ae eo cisieeiss uf eara eee ee ae oles 
— kidneys (see kidneys)....... obese on : 
— leg or haunch a la Miribel...... sccee 
— lights a la Mariniére.......... avers 
— liver (see calf)........... oace ras cess 
— loin 4 l Ambassade......... ivesecbes 


= Join 4 la Printaniére...-.cccccce. cece 
— loin ala Saintonge eeevoeceorseeoeoeoeeeeese 
— loin, with gravy..... ses. 


— neck of, au blanc..... Sys wees es cease 
— palates a la Sévigné....... mia sete ataetels 
— palates, Epicurean style..... es 
—— quarter, Scotch style.........sce0. oe 
—— Tack &) Albani tc ives ve ste obs. alas 
— round bottom fricandeau, glazed with 

PTAVY. nna veges Pawan 
-— round bottom, minced, Sicilian..... Hs 
— saddle, larded, chopped lettuce (Fig. 

OO) iw gewsuee eve cess aie art: 


— shoulder a la Bourguignotte......... 
— slice of round, with gravy.....ce.cee 
— Schnitzel, German style.......seceee 
— Schnitzel, Vienna style...... occcccce 
— spinal marrow, 4 la Barnave......... 
— spinal marrow, 4 la Villeroi........0. 
— sweetbreads (see sweetbreads)........ 


— tails, with cabbage ........ ecccccces 
— tendon or gristle, a la Bayeux........ 
— tendon or gristle, a la Biarritz..... oe 
— tongues a la Flamande.......... ans 
— tongues a la Périgueux (Fig. 338).... 
— tongues, to salt........0. ee vesesevees 
wm MOUOL s< 0s 3 sence ean alert aera Cove 

Vegetables (Fig. 541)... .....c.c ceunee : 
— to blanch 


PAGE. 


510 
510 


511 


509 
599 
512 
513 


513 
513 
513 


513 
514 
515 
515 
516 
692 


728 
517 


517 
767 


516 
517 
518 
518 
518 
519 
519 
519 
519 
520 
520 
520 
520 
520 


520 
521 


521 
521 
521 
514 
514 
522 
522 
522 
528 
528 
528 
528 
528 
528 
197 
815 
170 


sy 


THE EPICUREAN. 


Vegetable colors ............. FE Phen: 
Venison, antelope, deer, remarks on...... 
— cherry sauce—loin of deer.......-... 
— Colbert sauce—rack, roasted......... 


— cutlets a la Buridan...... Oe oc 
— cutlets a la Cauchoise............ wen 
— cutlets a la Financiére.............- 
— cutlets, deviled..... Na. Se eee 
— cutlets, tomato Parisian sauce........ 
— cutlets with chestnut purée......... 
—epigrammes of roebuck, marinade 

sauce with truffles...........00. 
— JUg REM sock eee as cou cies ee 


— kernel, slices a la Hussarde.......... 
— kernel, slices in papers...........06- 


—  minced...... sa Me oer et ose use 
— roebuck (see roebuck)....... i caeeewn 
— saddle, a ]’Athalin....... esishetee vce 
— saddle, a la Harder.......... caeeuee 
— saddle, a la MacMahon......... Senet 
— saddle, a la Morton.............. ee 

— aigrelette sauce—larded............- 
— saddle, breaded, black cherry sauce. . 
— saddle, gastronome.............00.- ° 


— saddle, Huntress style—antelope..... 
— saddle, port wine sauce and currant 
jelly’: 2.24355 hapa eee Ace, 

— saddle, roasted (Fig. 406)............ 
— saddle, Tyrolese style........... 
— tenderloin, grenadins a la Royal..... 
— tenderloin, noisettes a la Thierry .... 
— tenderloin tournedos, St. Hubert..... 
Violets, candied..............0- Sere ae 
— jelly (Fig. 591).......3 5508. 
Vol-au-vent crust (Fig. 112)....... Si se 
— crust in two pieces (Figs.113, 114)... 
Vol-au-vent (large) 4 la Dieppoise....... 


— a la Financiére (Fig. 445)........... . 
— ala Nesle..... eee ei cera cee ema : 
— Ancient style............. sc cecccece 


— chicken, with mushrooms... .. 
— codfish, salt 
— frogs and Soubise eggs...:....0s-00. 
mre OV BLOTS s.6S 5 dee ce ee eee eee ceccene 
Vol-au-vent (small) 4 la Delmontés...... 
—— dla Lucinics vos sy csc cete 
— oysters a la Maintenon...... sok Somes 
— Parisian style.......... on cece nena 
— reedbirds, Diplomate........... sss. 
— salmon trout a.la Regence........... 
Voliére galantine of pheasants a la 
Casimir Perrier (Fig. 451)........ 

— ala Waddington....... coer 
Wafers (see tea cakes)....... o ba dete: Chae 
— with Curacoa cream, rolled.......... 
Waffles (see breakfast cakes)..... Pro. ie 
— brisselets with raspberry cream. .... 
Walnuts, green’. 050 2k eee ee 
— pickled; greens 2... sSasa sae fuera 
Water ices (see ices).......... 00.0 cece es 
Weakfish 4 la Brighton.............. are 
— ala Pontigny .............. yy 


eoeoeeeoeve82 


INDEX. 1183 


Pace. 
Wells of Love (see cakes)..... peetas es) O07 
Welsh rarebit, golden buck 4 la Cutting 
POOP AUTO, joy sce ess cess 889 
White bait, deviled ......... Re ne en's 469 
ell Sn Ls DP ie es Stale siesta’ OR. i 469 
See A PEGOMW ISO BEVIO. cs a6 a eiccisc ewes cee 469 
Whitefish 4 la Gerhardi.......... ee 469 
Seer RM ORIERUGOSAUCE: «cena ow ties oe elev es 469 
White stock for meat and vegetables..... 221 
Wild boar’s head decorated (Fig. 587).... 801 
0s TS CA a er ea 637 
Wild pigeons or squabs, Poupeton, 
PURGION SEYIC sir oc cscs sais cinn es es 654 
MCE HUMCCCATE OLS ok. ode esse 00 1061 
— basket for serving (Fig. 767)......... 1062 
BNP gsc AD e's tec caececes 1062 
— clarifying, red and white............ 1062 
RR Te COTE 00S nick 6 nn sere,” 90 v's Swine 0 0 1062 
— Delmonico’s cellar list............... 1063 
— placing the casks in the cellar...... 2¢ 1061 


— to freeze champagne (Figs. 768, 769). 1065 


Paar, 

Woodeock & la Cavour...,.. esis Wie Vowels OOEIT EL 
mon 218 DUMAS So. ioc dien om cece Parca Weis 671 
me A 1A V AOTC: 05 ell acs odes ck. 7 eey esr, COS 
— breasts 4 Ja Diane........... na Ouiple eee 
— breasts a la Houston,........... iis See 
— breasts a la Mancelle........ . s,... 671 
— breasts‘a la Vatel (Fig. 407).......... 672 
== Droiled (Pig ANS) ora vowen Pap 72 
— cutlets, Poniatowski (Fig. 488).....,. 750 
— cutlets, Sarah Bernhardt..... ice ee iin 
ae LC OU eat te a IER Sale a lay Wawea es - 649 
Sea IGUSSOLUGIGrr., c ae eis 2 ws bo olan ae 
— on canapés 4 la Périgord............. | 672 
en PIS —COLL I). sor wie we Ba ee Fewieg tes tee me OS: 
Or MOR aeons aise ores Coat atecerenOl 
eos TORSLOC CHIL YAUG) esis 4d is'os's Soe oe ote eR OTE 
— salmis a la Beaumont...... ueeere ecg Ota 
— salmis a la Sanford...........6. vases Ole 
sem BUT OCs tigre eete coe xe sie Deaetuet case Ole 
Zampino, Modena of........... Sina aaiar aT OD 


— modern style with string beans...... 581 


Woodcock (Fig. 890)....... cseseesseese 639 y. Zephyr of rice with pineapple........... 907 


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